# Split Roubo Workbench



## lysdexic

*I have put this off for far too long*

Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.

It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.

I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…










I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.

Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.

I chose a more guided approach.

First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.

Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.










Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.










Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


----------



## a1Jim

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Have fun we will come along on you journey .


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


A1Jim, always there with a kind word to get things started.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


So….you will have it done by next week?

Look forward to updates, the pressure is on now that you went public.

Good luck!


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


That's right Shane and another reason why I started this blog.


----------



## BrandonW

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Nice Scott-- can't wait to see this thing!


----------



## jcees

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


*Gitter Done!* You'll wonder how you ever lived without her. Bon chance!

always,
J.C.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Ahhh! Here we go!!!


----------



## thedude50

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Scott My wood is orderd but they are saying 2-3 weeks as my suplier had to order it in mine will be based on bob langes 21 century bench it is really a split top with a odd vise configuration I ALREADY HAVE BOTH OF MY VISES WHAT SLOWED EVERYTHING DOWN IS i WILL BE making TWO AT THE SAME TIME I showed My uncle my Plans and a few things and he offered to buy all the wood I I would build the Benches I dont really feel intimidated but I would sure hate to screw one of them up and then have to keep the screwed up one so i ordered 20% extra wood all hard maple I have 3 projects in the shop right now and would like to get them done before I start the big benches I do have a cheep bench that has served me well when i didn't plane all my boards to finish when i started doing this the first third i noticed was my bench was too light so 120 pounds of plaster are stored on the shelves to keep it in one place then i HAD ISSUES WITH THE DOG HOLES THEY WOULDN'T LET ME USE MY HARBOR FREIGHT HOLD DOWN SO OUT CAME THE AUGER sorry i keep hitting that damn caps lock then the vises they are just too week so then i knew I read 7 books cover to cover and couldn't decide on a plan then i was looking for one more workbench book and instead I found the bob Lang article on his new bench to me he is way more respected than Schwartz and has been woodworking a hell of a lot longer and I don't trust young guys i know but its my hangup to me they lack enough experience to tell a veteran like me how to make something hell i will probably just make it off the drawing like i have for decades. anyway my wood guy tells me most woodworkers go 30 years with out making a proper bench but he thinks the hand tool resurgence will change that and I agree with that so i read lang's article then i ordered the dvd and settled on my bench and a few weeks went buy and i saw another dvd the monster workbench and i ordered it to but don't like the leg configuration so I printed out the pdf of the plans and made a covered book out of them for a shop reference. I PUT UP ALL THE PICTURES ON MY JOB BOARD AND WENT TO WORK on a cut list to include my plan to make the bench 2-3 inches taller I am 6'4" and thought the regular height would kill my back I was shopping all my wood dealers for best price to my door as I don't have a truck any more this is when my uncle came over for me to give him a bowling lesson I USED TO BE A pba BOWLER so I was telling him about my plans and that is when he offered to do the deal and I said yes this meant i had to find more wood and i wanted it to be as nice as it could be since he was footing the bill and since one of them is his he is verry pickey and if it sucks he will be the first to say so so you have a few days lead on my but Ill try very hard to keep pace but I wont sacrifice quality for speed on such an important build. I will be reading your blog every time you post and hope you will read mine this should be allot of fun congratulations on getting your wood to your shop Lance


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## veneer_maniac

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


If I might ask, what's the timber source?

Thanks!


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Good for you Scott. You will be building my dream bench. Don't be intimidated by it, you are more than capable. When you think about it, the base is no different to the American Girl doll bed you made, just on a bigger scale. I always break a big project down into smaller sub-projects that represent manageable chunks of work, then tick them off one by one. Before you know it, you'll be done.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


when I read "maple and cherry" my heart to a little pitter patter. That's going to be gorgeous. Is Al going to give you the #4 with the cherry and maple knob and tote you he just bought?


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


I agree Don, maple and cherry are exotics in my part of the world.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Frank,
I bought my wood from Rick at The Woodworking Source. I am fortunate to have this gentleman just on the other side of town. He is a pleasure to work with.

The soft maple was not a hard decision. My maple is not clear by any means as there is alot of Ambrosia worm markings in most of it. However, I thought the cherry might be over the top. Rick had some "common" cherry 8/4×8 ft boards at the same price as the maple. So, why not. I will say that in the "common" there is a lot of checks, knots, and sap the will lead to more waste. This is a workbench so imperfections are welcome.

Don, I don't think Al would give me the time of day.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Now that I have both the Schwarz's original and the BC bench on the same page I can appreciate some of the design differences.

I much prefer the proportions of the original roubo. I like the visual wieght of the square legs. I am considering of going through the trouble of changing the plan just to make my legs better proportioned.

The top appears thicker on the original but if I remember correctly it is actually the same thickness at 4". This has to do with the length of the BC bench overall and between the front legs. I am not going to change that for my build.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


That bench looks great! You work fast I want the exact same bench except maybe with a split top and a traditional L-shaped tail. I'll probably go wooden screws, unless I don't. It's going to be spectacular.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


My thoughts exactly on the square legs Scott. I have had Jameel's bench as my screensaver for ages and never get bored with it. I'm undecided abut the split top. The picture si flipped for left-handers.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Good luck and I am most interested in seeing what you come up with. I do like your wood selection and it should work out nice for you. Keep us posted so we can learn along the way. Hopefully I will get my new shop late summer and it will be in need of a proper bench such as yours.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Andy: Right….......I'd seen that pic a couple times but did not realize it was Jameel's.

Square legs
Monlithic slab
Also, notice how the top is shorter at the leg vise side.

Me like.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Yeah. You can position the top where you want it really. Most people allow enough room for the wagon vise to one side of the leg, but I've seen one build where the wagon vise travelled over the top of the leg because they wanted the leg vise further in from the end. It wasn't a problem.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Between your talent and how well you document your projects, watching this come together is going to be so fun.

Thanks for posting Scott.


----------



## AndyPanko

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Good luck! I'm looking forward to future posts on this build.

- Andy


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Just to give a setting. This is a dining table donated by a friend and a B&D Workmate (you may have heard of one), These are working to build their replacement. The new workbench will go right where theey are sitting.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Andy quick call dibs on the work mate.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Just checking back in, hoping to see the finished bench photos. Did I miss the big reveal?


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


this thing is going to be sweet!


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


It's not my color Dave. I like them more brown and crusty.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Ah the pressure builds


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Leather and steel. WOW!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Ahhhhh, progress soon and very soon!


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Wow, the wheel and knob are too cool. The suspense builds.


----------



## KTMM

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Wow, I had my mind set on a bench like what you're working on. I'm sold on my own ideas now….

I do need to get some nice holdfasts like those though…..


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Mmmmmmm…Benchcrafted.


----------



## thedude50

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


I was thinking about adding a third and maybe a 4th vis to my bench one is a tail vise like the one on rob cosmans bench and the other is as patern makers vise this will make the bench cost quite a bit more what do you guys think


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


nice!!!!!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Dude - in a word: overkill. But that's my opinion. It 's your bench at the end of the day, though…


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Subscribed! Also subscribed to that case of Jack on your shop shelf
Edit: Overkill, Smit? Definitely. Glorius to admire and fondle? Absolutely. I simply can't resist the lure of the wooden screw.
Edit2: I think the overkill-of-the-year award goes to the Brett bandsaw guard, lol.
.








.
I've injured myself taking on and off bandsaw blades more than any activity in the shop.


----------



## terryR

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


My goodness, Scott, I'm drooling over your parts and wood…can't wait to watch you assemble them! Heck, can I come over and help/learn? 

Oooohhh what I'd give for that Jameel's bench that Andy posted above…and the skills to match it!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Thanks for comments gentlemen. Al, that box departed from its intended contents long ago. Now, it humbly holds various remote controls.

*Design change*: per Andy's pics I have decided that square legs are worth the effort. So I went and picked up some more common cherry. The legs should end up approx 5 3/8" square. The adjustments to the plan are minimal. The short stretchers will be shorter, the dog holes on the leg will need a counter bore on the back for the holdfasts. I am not sure what effect it will have on the leg vise yet.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


"the dog holes on the leg will need a counter bore on the back for the holdfasts."

How large (diameter & depth) of a counter bore will it require to allow the holdfasts to properly function? Is it a matter of trial and error?


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Tony,
That is a really good question. My understanding is that holdfasts start to have difficulty around 3 to 3.5 inches of depth. So, I would counter bore wide enough and deep enough so that the holdfast only sees that depth. In this situation, the I will make the couter bore 1" wide and 2" deep….. or trial and error.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Lysdexic, I think the square legs is a thoughtful choice. That's the way I plan to do. I never really considered the effect on holdfasts. I guess I'll just do what you plan to do; just drill the hole and if it starts binding, just ream out the rear (that one's just for you
.
Edit: are you planning wagon or l-shaped tail? That Benchcrafted install as a wagon is just a sight to behold. I like the idea of all that thick stuff buried in the tail (that one's just a bonus for you


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Thanks Scott. 
It had not occurred to me (until i read your comment) that holdfasts required more lateral/horizontal movement, than the ¾" hole would allow after a certain depth. The description on Tools for Working Wood lead me to believe that 1¾"+ thickness and you would be golden. I appreciate the insight.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


The holdfast that Lysdexic gave me is in a 3" top and it works absolutely perfectly. I'm surprised how strong it grabs.


----------



## jusfine

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Scott, welcome to the WW Guild, I am sure you will enjoy it!


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Lysdexic, I just became aware that Grizzly sells a prefabbed 2 1/2 thick maple top for $300 or so. What are your thoughts on 2 1/2". I could buy two 1 3/4 inch thick ones and laminate them for around $400. If you can't tell, I'm not looking forward to gluing up a top.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


its funny Al, because gluing up panels and tops is one of my favorite parts of the project. It probably just goes to show how odd I really am.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


^Maybe we can work something out, Don I'm guessing like the local tradesmen in WV, you won't work for beer.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Al, there is nothing WRONG with a thin top. The benefits of a thick top, from what I understand, is rigidity (no need for stretchers and no sag) and weight. So, doing a 2 1/2" top is perfectly fine -you will just need to add suporting structure and most importantly a stretcher flush to the front surface to enable the the leg vise, tail vise and deadman.

Justfine, Thanks for the welcome. Thus far I am thrilled witht the experience. If you look at the cost/benefit ratio, it is a great value for the hobbyist/novice.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Scott, I've never heard that a 2 1/2" top needed stretchers. Where did you read that? I'm sure the distance between the legs would also be a factor in any sagging.










This old guys has a 2 1/2" white oak top, no stretchers and no sag after a couple hundred years.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


^No sag, Mauricio, lol? Maybe it's an optical illusion, but it looks beautifully sagged to me. The pictured bench is absolutely glorious. I'm really starting to like the look of angled supports and tusk tenons. Look at the thickness of that legvise and the diameter of the screw. Totally fantastic bench. 
.
Thanks, Scott. I think the 2 1/2 top might work for me. I'm not sure what I'll do with the legs but I know they'll be flush with massive stretchers. Not sure what wood I'll use for the undercarriage. I might even go with fir. I figure the top and vises will be the only thing I won't want to rework in the future. I've got a sweet block of 2 1/2 inch curly cherry for the leg vise.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Hang on a minute Al. I thought your top was going to be at least 6" thick.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Al, I just put a straight edge out to my monitor and it actually looks like it is arched upwards! That is a Moravian bench. Check out this blog where the guy is building it with all hand tools. He found one big old reclaimed Oak Beam for the top. If you find one then there is no glue up at all! He does glue up SYP for the legs. http://www.wkfinetools.com/tMaking/art/moravianBench/moravianBench-01.asp

Also, if you want to regain your sanity when it comes to workbench design do what I've been doing, look at antique workbenches. Check out this site, most of them are made of two big flat sawn boards bolted together. Tops look like about 2.5" to 3", of course this place is selling them as antiques for use as consoles so they would only carry smaller benches. http://www.1stdibs.com/furniture_search.php?stype=1&sm=HKS&solds=2&i_keyword=workbench


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


I love the splay and the tusks too…. This on is really nice, I like the splayed leg underhill too but this one makes me think….


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Mauricio, I guess I was describing upward sag, too, lol It looks like the guy was mashing hard at the ends, as he should You know, the antique benches really appeal to me, too. When I moved to WV, I thought there'd be vintage benches everywhere, huge slabs of whatever for pennies on the dollar, and mills on every corner. I've come to realize that I'm not going to be able to buy a vintage bench. The solid top appeals to me on many levels but I'm not confident in my ability to obtain one. I want an awesome bench, like all of us; but I actually NEED a bench, even if it's not my dream bench. My current bench is 36" x 20", lol. 
.
Like Andy says, I swore up and down that I'd have a 6 inch thick, 400lb benchtop. Nothing's changed about wanting it. I've simply lost the will to make it. If I had large powerful jointers and planers, perhaps I'd try a bit harder. 
.
I think Scott's plan is straight out of my dream plans. It's got all the right stuff, that's for sure. I've started the clock on his build. I planned for mine to take a year. Seriously, a year. If I buy the top prefabbed, I might be able to eke it out in 9 months

Edit: Mauricio, look at the roubo that guy is building his Moravian on! The top of that roubo doesn't get a whole lot cooler. Check out the size of the leg vise nut and screw on that Salem bench. I like the placement of the garter, too.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


yeah thats a small bench Al, mine is 8' long but its 2×4's and OSB. lol.

I feel like I'm half way through mine but now the wife wants be to build a Play Set for the kids :-( Hopefully we can find a good deal on one and just buy it.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Al - That's a HUGE bench you've got. What I wouldn't give for that.  It's all relative isn't it.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Mauricio, those vintage benchs are so beautiful that it's hard for me to look at them. The fact that some yuppy is going to use them as a sideboard makes me want to cry. Feast your friggin eyes:
.








.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


It makes you wonder where they found them all.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


^I'd sure like to know, Andy. It looks like many of them are from your side. There's a lot to be said for the typically "English" ones with the large dogged face. When reading the Schwarz's book, I flip-flopped b/w the English and the French. Lot to be said for both. I'd hate to have my wallet on me if I spotted one of these things in the wild. I think it was Don who said, "If I was going to spend $2500 on a bench, it would be an antique one". Kind of difficult to argue with.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


All the splayed leg ones are from France or Bengium looks like it.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


There is an antique shop/restoration shop in chester vt that we visit from time to time. He has several restored vintage workbenches. They are very nice. Prices range from about $1200 for the small ones to $25-2800 for regular size. Most still have some sort of vise on them. I actually see a quit a few here in the north east.


----------



## MoshupTrail

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


I have a question for all you Roubo bench lovers… Some of these have really beefy legs. I assume that's to stabilize the table under the strain of hand planing. Is that correct? Then what about the ones with spindly legs? What's the attraction there? 
Also the thick top - must also be intended for various hand tool tasks like planing and chiseling. Right?

Maybe someone could talk about design and function a bit… I'd appreciate the education.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Mauricio, you give my knowledge WAY too much credit. My assertion is based on my reading and "common sense. I have read that 1 1/2" top will need support. In fact, my 8' work *table* is sagging after one year of use.

I think 2 1/2" will be fine depending upon, distance between legs, average loads, species, time…....


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Moshup,

These huge thick elements are to promote rigidity, stabilty and weight. The woodowrker who must not be named did a nice job discussion the differnet design elements of the workbenches, past and present. I recommend his book.

My opinion, 5" square legs is over kill but the proportions are pleasing.

My opinion, 4" top is overkill but will be rigid, stable and last forever.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Al, were you saying there are people who WON'T work for beer!! I'd be more than happy to glue up your top, but the trucking's going to kill you. Wait….....what kind of beer are we talking?


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


It's all good Scott, I thought I might have missed that in one of the must read workbench books. 1 1/2" would definitely need support. 2.5" on a small bench probably not, on a big bench it would look thin.

All that said I think I'm going to beef up the front edge of my 2.5" top just to make it look thicker.

Al, if you really want to avoid glue ups I think the best bet is to wait, keep your eyes open and do like Smitty says and let the wood find you. Keep your eyes open for a nice slab, if its not wide enough add a tool tray, if you dont like trays add a plant on the back end, no same in that, its the way Peter Follansbee, Garrett Hack, and others have made their benches. Or go SYP, I found a place in Atlanta that has 4"x6" SYP cheap, I could have made the hole top out of 3 pieces of that and it would have only cost like 30ish bucks. But like you Im not crazy about how it looks.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Considering splayed legs: I had often considered a taper leg. For instance going fron 5×5" at the top and tapering down 38% to 3 1/4×3 1/4" at the bottom of the leg would give it a much more refined image without sacrificing too much weight or stabilty. If I was better at sketch-up I'd like to visualize it.

Still, I am considering taper the legs below the bottom stretchers. That way I dont have to mess with the plan. I am lazy and want to keep things as simple as possible.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Scott, my 2 1/2 has performed for a long time now, although soft wood. I just have to go back for seconds or thirds; I consider it a cumulative measurement event


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


This is for you Al…...


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


^I will throat-punch you if that's yours. I can almost see your mainstream yuppie you on that phone, "Yes, this is Scotty…; oh my God, yes! It was hilaaaarious; her dress was like something from the 80's; like gag me with a spoon, right?...". Throat punch. I'm watching you.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


boys, play nice. 

Al, there will be no violence in this house!


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


^just saying
.








.
Scott is actually quite tall in real life.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Throat punch…lol.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


I hear Al's got a book. Hope I'm not in it. Actually, I probably will be after this.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


^huge lol


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Is this better….


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Ahh….....this is the ticket


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


an old workbench as a bar. Now that's what I'm talking about! Where's the jack?


----------



## terryR

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Hey, I like that one!

...don't wanna get punched…but I'd love a few of those roubos around the house! I have so many things 1/2 completed just lying around anyway…I could just clamp wood in every vise…just a saw cut here…a chisel pare there…while listening to the wife explain the latest changes in her goat fence…


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


OK, forget the throat punch. You just graduated to one well below the belt. The Bombay Sapphire was a nice try, though. 
.








.
LOL Terry, you're right; it'd be handy to have a few projects going in the kitchen, dining room, and living room.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Al, LOL, that scene you painted of Scott on the phone gave me a good laugh.

Scott that last pic you posted, I think, is actually a fake bench/island. I saw it at Pottery Barn or someplace like that a while back.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


HaHa


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Mauricio,
Why do you keep calling me out on my inaccurate posts. You are going to give me a complex!


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Sorry, didn't mean too brother! Especially not on your own blog!
I love you man!. But not in the "you and Al" kind of way, I just really appreciat you… ;-)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


RE: the fake bench/island pic, I'm thinking it looks crappy enough that doing service as a bar vs. a shop tool is actually a good thing.

9 to 12 months, Al? Side bet says that once you get started the project will pull you towards sooner rather than later…


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Mauricio - Scott and Al have a 'special' relationship. It isn't often that Al graces a blog with his presence, but you can't keep him away from Scott's. He never visits mine or if he does, he never leaves a comment. I try really hard to make it interesting, but still no Al. I don't know. :-( He never writes, he never phones….

Just kidding!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Yeah Al, whats with the 1 year projection? That comment was damn near depressing. I sure hope that it doesn't take me a year. If I knew it would take a year I would have NO reservations buying a Maguire. The oppotunity costs of that much time are just too high.

Speaking of opportunity costs. In private practice, if I aint working and aint getting paid. That said I am taking a whole week off, which is uusaul for me, just to work of the bench. Imagine 9 days straight of woodworking! The kids are on spring break so qwill have some competition for my time but I have laid down the ground work for the week. I was hoping to have the slabs, legs and top glued up before then.

Still, when you consider the lost wages this will be an expensive bench.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


*But not in the "you and Al" kind of way*
.
It's OK, Mauricio, you can call it the "gay" way. We're both consenting adults. What we do in the privacy of our own homes, cars, and rest stops is between us. 
.
That actually made me a bit sick to type. You know you're doing something really wrong when your fingers resist typing something. BRB washing my hands.
.
Edit: Don't jinx yourself, Scott. Knock on some wood. If you start planning on 9 straight days in the shop, you'll get the flu, strep throat, or rectal prolapse. Sea cucumber. I am so awesome. What you say is so true about the time spent. What's a week's pay for a private practice surgeon, eighty bucks or so after insurance? But it's also true that you'd probably gladly pay for the time spent building the bench. It's just one of those excercises that's going to be expensive, no matter how you approach it. I think I'm more inclined to actually start if I buy a pre-made benchtop. I have to carefully titrate my purchases to maintain interest. 
.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


That's funny Al.

What's with this 1 year thing? There's probably 40 man hours in a split-top Roubo. In the words of Nike, just do it already.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


hahaha


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Al, join your local Woodworking Guild and borrow someone's Jointer. I think I'm going go to my local guild meeting next time they have one, I think there are so many opportunities to share tools, knowledge, swap tools, wood, etc…

I was talking to some of the guys at the Woodworking Show, one of the cool things is that they all have different style benches, Roubo, German, etc. and they go over to each other's houses and try them out, decide what they like first hand before building their own.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


My build took between six and eight weeks, but there was a BUNCH of procrastinating when it came to cutting off the legs and committing to how they'd fasten to the bench top. If you got that settled up front, the rest is just work.

"cars and rest stops…" lol, that makes me chuckle. Always wondered what those cars were doing at the park and ride overnight, windows all steamed up.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Smitty, were you selling a vise screw?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


I pulled it off the Epic Thread 'cause I had second thoughts. But I'd like to see it go to a LJ buddy for a bench build if it go anywhere. I'll take a couple pics tonight and post here.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Smitty - "windows all steamed up".

There used to be a bumper sticker here in the UK which read IF YOU SEE ME ROCKIN', DON'T COME KNOCKIN'


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


/


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.












I can't remember the last time I've been called smart without an a$$ trailing off of it. Scott is one of those guys that just looks military. You don't even have to ask. I imagine that all good military men have established certain lifestyle opinions. 
.
Smit, you know…I'm in the market for wood screws Mauricio's been making some, as well. While we're on the subject of wood screws, what do y'all think?
.
http://www.bigwoodvise.com/








.
$135 with shipping
.
Specifications:
■*2-5/8" (66.8 mm) diameter, approx.* 2 threads per inch. 
■Two (2) Garter Grooves - 3/8" wide (~10 mm), for either an External or an Internal Garter.
■Overall length is 26" (66 cm) with approximately 18"-19" (45-49 cm) threaded portion.
■Made of Hard Maple.
■The Biggest Vise Screw in the Industry!
■The Hub of the Vise Screw: Approx. 3.5" (8.9 cm) in diameter.
■All hubs are pre-drilled to accept a 1" hardwood handle (supplied).
■Note: Vise Screw is One (1) Piece, for Solid Construction.
■Approx. 3-1/2 high x 2-3/4" thick x 8" wide - threaded to fit the vise screw.
■Constructed of Hand-Selected, Kiln-Dried, Hard Maple.
■All Big Wood Vise kits come supplied with a Complete Handle Bar Kit, at No Additional Cost.
■Handle Bar: 1" (25.4 mm) diameter, x 18" (457 mm) Long - Hard Maple Dowel.
■Two (2) Pre-Drilled Hard Maple Balls - Drilled - Pre-Drilled to accept the 1" diameter handle.
■Two (2) Rubber O-ring "Bumpers", included. All hubs are pre-drilled to accept a 1" hardwood handle (supplied).
■Vise Screw, Nut Stock, Handle, and Handle Knobs - are constructed of Hand-Selected, Kiln-Dried Hard Maple.

Pretty sweet; or for $185 + shipping:

http://www.lakeerietoolworks.com/shop/article_1003.001/Wood-Vise-Screw---Premium-Kit.html?shop_param=cid%3D3%26aid%3D1003.001%26
.
Lake eerie is talking a month to ship.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Andy,
The one year thing is: somewhere in here Al stayed that he has started a mental stopwatch on my build and somehow projected a year for completion.


----------



## thedude50

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


I say man up and prove him wrong dude. Hey just in case any of you would like to get in on a nice bench build Rob Cosman added another class to his site this is his hand and power tool area and it will have a 2 bench build.first the construction of a assembly bench and then a build of the bench that he builds. i guess we will call it the cosman bench as he designed it from other benches . they are filming the entire build. I have also decided to film my entire build for people who want to build bob lang's bench coming soon to a you tube Chanel near you


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


*I say man up and prove him wrong dude*
.
That's what I'm saying, dude. Sometimes it takes an actual Dude to make it official. My hat's off to you, regardless of route. With those vises in tow, you've got some answering to do; you know this. I stand by my declaration, that Lysdexic's bench should be built within one year. Mark it. He'll make it happen. I'll take his errors in conscious stride,then capitalize on them during my build. Win/win for me. I may even slip in some bicepital curls in there, for good measure. I'm flexing on Scott's bench before he's built it.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Linda Carter, boy does that bring back memories.

Will you guys build the damn benches already. Do I need to drive to the central east region with bar clamps in tow?

Sorry dude your on your own, west cost is to far to carry those damn things.

Al, if it sound harsh we call it tough love.

-just kidding about the harsh, I couldn't resist-


----------



## thedude50

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


face it the only thing keeping Scott from busting out the bench in a few days is Scott My statment was not meant to be disrespectful it was to get it done I know the bench is about a weeks work if you do it straight through so that means if you have a day job it should be done in 5 weeks working one day a week full tim. I want Scott to know we believe he can do it that quick if he believes he can I will do anything I can to help but California is even too far for don to help me with my workbench.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


I think Scott is kind of like me; I think for every hour work he does on the bench, he'll spend twice that admiring it. This isn't a critique; I do the same exact thing. A bench is a really big deal to me.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Scott, last call if you think a pre-made top and two fat woodscrews is a mistake! Like you alluded to, if something doesn't show up at my door, I'm just going to talk and talk and talk…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Al - THIS is the stuff you need to find and use for your workbench. Seriously.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Smitty, that is seriously impressive. Since I'm dreading the lamination, I'm not fond of the extra step laminating maple onto the synthetic stuff. Makes total sense, though; plenty of thickness and weight; and you'll never level through that maple top. 
.
I've got two massive wood screws in my cart. buying a prelaminated maple top from the Griz. That puts me at about $750 for everything but the base, apron, and tail construction. I've got enough maple to complete the aprons and tail assembly, have a piece for my leg vise (cherry, weighing 60 pounds), but nothing for the base. 
.
I'm thinking of going with a Douglas fir base, just for availability reasons. I figure $300 will get me there. Does anyone know if fir is like the worst choice in the World? I haven't read workbench books in a while; I just got saturated and indecisive. 
.
A massive Roubo with two giant wooden screws for $1000 or so; I'm not going to beat that. 
.
I wasn't kidding above that I planned it to take a year. That wasn't directed at Scotty, of course. Without laminating the top, I think I can get it moving pretty quickly. If I were to laminate a top, I'd probably end up buying a bunch of clamps. I know myself well enough to say that.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Well, I'm in there with you now, Scott. No turning back. Just pulled the trigger on two Grizzly 60×24 x 2/14 sugar maple slabs, two big wood vise screws, and two garters. It was painful but not as painful as it would be if I went benchcrafted. I went with big wood vise b/c I'm told that Lake Eerie can take a long time. Their screws are clearly nicer, but a bit more expensive.
.
See you on the other side.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


^ Grats Al!


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


^Thanks, Tony. With all the bad things I've said about Grizzly here, I'm waiting for someone to call me out on it


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


I was not privy to the Grizzly smack-talk or I would have obliged.

Regardless of what Scott says, I believe your IKE… Grizzly bench will be a fine looking specimen and I have every confidence that it will abide all trials it is subjected to.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


remember Al, I still have that ash, and the mill is in route!


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


I think *Don the Miller* has a nice ring to it. It's definitely better than *Roger the Miller*, but we won't go there.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


^Thanks Anthony!
Don, careful what you offer; ash is one of my favorite woods. They make bats and mallets out of it for a reason
Totally agree, Andy. It should be Don the Miller.


----------



## thedude50

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Don Congrats on the mill I would still like enough ash to build a whole bench I have decided to make 2 for my shop as one will always be a mess if you can help me out with the wood I WILL PAY THE FREIGHT


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Al, I am very much looking forward to you bench build.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


^As I am yours, Scott. In a few months or so, we'll find out about that wooden screw choice.


----------



## thedude50

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Well it is time to bring this thread back from the dead where are we at Scott


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


I am at work. Haven't been in the shop for 3 weeks.


----------



## Randy_ATX

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Man am I grateful I stumbled upon this blog. THANK YOU for the documentation of this. I will check it out in more depth over the next week. Added to favorites as this will be a future bench for me too.

Nice work.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Knock yourself out Randy. I hope the blog helps you avoid some mistakes. Feel free to ask questions. If some pictures are missing it is because I screwed up my Picasa account. Sorry.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


I am at work. Haven't been in the shop for 3 weeks
.
can relate.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


I am sure you can brotha. Good to hear from you.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


I went' into the shop today!!!!

To get my battery jumper for my dead truck.
Inspection sticker, check.
Switching my lights from auto to on, check
No start, check.

It was still nice to be in there. My lawn guys have been long overdue, so I proved to them that I didn't need them anyway; took me three days to do it with my gimp leg.

They just showed up, rolled over my work, and showed me why I'm not a lawn guy.

All is well in the World.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


^ Who is that guy and why is his leg still gimped? Miss ya Al.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Good to know all is well. I was just thinking of you today as I flushed and wondered if your life stinks as bad as mine does.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *I have put this off for far too long*
> 
> Ok, so let me get this blog started before I get so far behind that I put it off - forever.
> 
> It is undisputed that the most important tool in the woodworking shop is a proper workbench. I don't have one.
> 
> I will not rehash the nuances of workbench design but after reading Schwarz's and Scott Landis's books, I had my heart set on a Roubo bench. I am not alone as several LJ's have posted wonderful roubo benches. At first I wanted to build this…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really enjoy the cherry and the contrasting woods. However, my preference is to switch them and have a maple top with cherry legs. There are functional reasons for this as well. Then, along the way I discovered the Benchcrafted hardware and knew that is what I was eventually going to use. Yet, the traditional Roubo has difficulties with tail vise. The problem is keeping the dog holes as close to the front edge but running into the front right leg.
> 
> Regardless, I kept putting it off and putting it off. Why? I think it is a lack of confidence. I am not skilled or experienced enough to just blow through this project without one, and primarily, way over analyzing every step to the point of paralysis. Second, making some very costly errors. Finally, I am not going to build this bench, Learn from my mistakes and build a better one anytime soon.
> 
> I chose a more guided approach.
> 
> First, I was just going to use Benchcrafted's hardware and plans. I still prefer the monolithic slab of a traditional Roubo. But after hearing that Marc Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) was doing the a guild build I was quite tempted. Still I put it off. After that, I procrastinated knowing some day I'd get a rountoit.
> 
> Finally, i *committed* and placed my order with Benchcrafted. More importantly, I announced to Al (Bertha) that I had begun. "I have begun my bench build." If you don''t know Al you need to know that he is all business. You need to chose your words carefully and mean what you say. Also, if you speak slowly he is more apt to understand, especially the big words. Regardless, events cascaded form here. I signed up for the guild and watched all the videos. I made my shopping list. The next weekend I bought the lumber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, this is what I am attempting to do. I am going to build this - hopefully. I will stick to my original desire and make the horizontal elements out of a lighter soft maple and the vertical elements will made of cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for coming by. The next blog will be about the rough milling which I have already done.


Yes, Scotty, it does. I'm a politician now. All that medicine was apparently a waste. 
I found a guy to resurface my drive next week. He's going to dress it up to the shop door all nice like. 
Sooooo green here in WV right now but a frost up high tonight.
I'm going to cover my small garden but the orchard will have to weather it.

I scored a sweet horned woodbody last weekend with an RG1 on it. Not sure what it was used for but it's boxed with dowels. It's gorgeous. Will post pics. I also got this weird sewing apparatus with concealed needles and bobbin. It was a good day.

Does my life stink? More than you know. I try to make my off-time count, but there ain't much of it. I never imagined I'd have other people doing some of my favorite things: cleaning and yard work.

I have to move all my bench fir (relevant to thread for once) into the shop when I get the drive done. PERHAPS that will motivate me. We'll see.

Love you all.


----------



## lysdexic

*Rough Dimensioning*

I spent the weekend cutting the lumber into bite size peices. I found this somewhat challenging because this is where I picked the boards and assigned their fate.

"You will be this and you will be that. No, wait, you are not wide enough. Go back into that stack. Now I need another one these but that means I will have to cut you in half…. Am I sure? "

I need the boards for the top to be ~ 5" wide. I will preserve length and thickness for now. Still in order to rip them to length I needed a reference edge first. THIS was the hardest part. Running a 6" wide, 8' long 10/4 maple board across I meager Rigid jointer was work. Everything is still well over sized. These rollers I picked from the local Sears that is going out of business were a godsend.










Once I got a decent edge, I ripped at the band saw. My Rikon performed quite admirably. I did recently put a woodslicer blade on it. There was a tension in some of the boards.




























-------------------------------------------------
Some of the cherry waste.



















---------------------------------------------------
Here is a smaller more ordered lumber pile. The final top thickness is 4". I need 12 boards for the top, the front dovetail face board and the dog hole strip. I have 11 that are 5" wide. I have 2 others that are 4 1/2" and 4 1/4" BEFORE MILLING so they are not going to work.










Here are the long stretchers and the 4/4 shelving below.










--------------------------------------------------
These will be laminated into the cherry legs. The plan calls for 32" long legs but I cut these at 36". You can see that I still have some checking at the ends that I need to cut out or epoxy.










--------------------------------------------------
Now, check out this board. It is different from all the others. It was 8 ft but had a punky knot 1/3 down the length. I had to cut that out. I assigned this to a long stretcher. But look at this grain! I don't know that I will use this in a workbench. Should I save it for other projects? What do you think?





































--------------------------------------------------
The chop will end up 2 1/2" thick and the calls for 9" wide 12/4 stock and I don't have any. This these two pieces will be laminated. Also, a cool Starrett machinist hammer that I dig.



















---------------------------------------------------
I think I have things under control for now. I need to laminate some of the cherry cut offs for the tail vise block which also calls for 12/4 stock. Also I need to splice the thin maple boards to get up to 5" wide stock.

Thanks.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Rough Dimensioning*
> 
> I spent the weekend cutting the lumber into bite size peices. I found this somewhat challenging because this is where I picked the boards and assigned their fate.
> 
> "You will be this and you will be that. No, wait, you are not wide enough. Go back into that stack. Now I need another one these but that means I will have to cut you in half…. Am I sure? "
> 
> I need the boards for the top to be ~ 5" wide. I will preserve length and thickness for now. Still in order to rip them to length I needed a reference edge first. THIS was the hardest part. Running a 6" wide, 8' long 10/4 maple board across I meager Rigid jointer was work. Everything is still well over sized. These rollers I picked from the local Sears that is going out of business were a godsend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got a decent edge, I ripped at the band saw. My Rikon performed quite admirably. I did recently put a woodslicer blade on it. There was a tension in some of the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> Some of the cherry waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Here is a smaller more ordered lumber pile. The final top thickness is 4". I need 12 boards for the top, the front dovetail face board and the dog hole strip. I have 11 that are 5" wide. I have 2 others that are 4 1/2" and 4 1/4" BEFORE MILLING so they are not going to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the long stretchers and the 4/4 shelving below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> These will be laminated into the cherry legs. The plan calls for 32" long legs but I cut these at 36". You can see that I still have some checking at the ends that I need to cut out or epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> Now, check out this board. It is different from all the others. It was 8 ft but had a punky knot 1/3 down the length. I had to cut that out. I assigned this to a long stretcher. But look at this grain! I don't know that I will use this in a workbench. Should I save it for other projects? What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> The chop will end up 2 1/2" thick and the calls for 9" wide 12/4 stock and I don't have any. This these two pieces will be laminated. Also, a cool Starrett machinist hammer that I dig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I think I have things under control for now. I need to laminate some of the cherry cut offs for the tail vise block which also calls for 12/4 stock. Also I need to splice the thin maple boards to get up to 5" wide stock.
> 
> Thanks.


The figured part of the board will help make something cool. Resaw it to about 1/2" or 3/8" and you could make a box or something small bookmatched. When is the ETA for the big reveal? I was thinking you would be done by now!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Rough Dimensioning*
> 
> I spent the weekend cutting the lumber into bite size peices. I found this somewhat challenging because this is where I picked the boards and assigned their fate.
> 
> "You will be this and you will be that. No, wait, you are not wide enough. Go back into that stack. Now I need another one these but that means I will have to cut you in half…. Am I sure? "
> 
> I need the boards for the top to be ~ 5" wide. I will preserve length and thickness for now. Still in order to rip them to length I needed a reference edge first. THIS was the hardest part. Running a 6" wide, 8' long 10/4 maple board across I meager Rigid jointer was work. Everything is still well over sized. These rollers I picked from the local Sears that is going out of business were a godsend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got a decent edge, I ripped at the band saw. My Rikon performed quite admirably. I did recently put a woodslicer blade on it. There was a tension in some of the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> Some of the cherry waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Here is a smaller more ordered lumber pile. The final top thickness is 4". I need 12 boards for the top, the front dovetail face board and the dog hole strip. I have 11 that are 5" wide. I have 2 others that are 4 1/2" and 4 1/4" BEFORE MILLING so they are not going to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the long stretchers and the 4/4 shelving below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> These will be laminated into the cherry legs. The plan calls for 32" long legs but I cut these at 36". You can see that I still have some checking at the ends that I need to cut out or epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> Now, check out this board. It is different from all the others. It was 8 ft but had a punky knot 1/3 down the length. I had to cut that out. I assigned this to a long stretcher. But look at this grain! I don't know that I will use this in a workbench. Should I save it for other projects? What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> The chop will end up 2 1/2" thick and the calls for 9" wide 12/4 stock and I don't have any. This these two pieces will be laminated. Also, a cool Starrett machinist hammer that I dig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I think I have things under control for now. I need to laminate some of the cherry cut offs for the tail vise block which also calls for 12/4 stock. Also I need to splice the thin maple boards to get up to 5" wide stock.
> 
> Thanks.


Shane, I get enough of that at home and work :^) But I hope to put the finish on before the end of the NCAA tournament.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *Rough Dimensioning*
> 
> I spent the weekend cutting the lumber into bite size peices. I found this somewhat challenging because this is where I picked the boards and assigned their fate.
> 
> "You will be this and you will be that. No, wait, you are not wide enough. Go back into that stack. Now I need another one these but that means I will have to cut you in half…. Am I sure? "
> 
> I need the boards for the top to be ~ 5" wide. I will preserve length and thickness for now. Still in order to rip them to length I needed a reference edge first. THIS was the hardest part. Running a 6" wide, 8' long 10/4 maple board across I meager Rigid jointer was work. Everything is still well over sized. These rollers I picked from the local Sears that is going out of business were a godsend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got a decent edge, I ripped at the band saw. My Rikon performed quite admirably. I did recently put a woodslicer blade on it. There was a tension in some of the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> Some of the cherry waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Here is a smaller more ordered lumber pile. The final top thickness is 4". I need 12 boards for the top, the front dovetail face board and the dog hole strip. I have 11 that are 5" wide. I have 2 others that are 4 1/2" and 4 1/4" BEFORE MILLING so they are not going to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the long stretchers and the 4/4 shelving below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> These will be laminated into the cherry legs. The plan calls for 32" long legs but I cut these at 36". You can see that I still have some checking at the ends that I need to cut out or epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> Now, check out this board. It is different from all the others. It was 8 ft but had a punky knot 1/3 down the length. I had to cut that out. I assigned this to a long stretcher. But look at this grain! I don't know that I will use this in a workbench. Should I save it for other projects? What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> The chop will end up 2 1/2" thick and the calls for 9" wide 12/4 stock and I don't have any. This these two pieces will be laminated. Also, a cool Starrett machinist hammer that I dig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I think I have things under control for now. I need to laminate some of the cherry cut offs for the tail vise block which also calls for 12/4 stock. Also I need to splice the thin maple boards to get up to 5" wide stock.
> 
> Thanks.


Scott the cherry cut offs are great for frames, you can get some fake crushed turquoise and clear epoxy and fill that knot hole and build something nice. I cant toss scraps out.
Now I am sorry about the short board. Are you going to order some more stock?
That is one cool hammer.
I cant stop looking at that figured board. That kind of wood is what I like.
You are off to a good start. Keep at it. It's looking very nice.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Rough Dimensioning*
> 
> I spent the weekend cutting the lumber into bite size peices. I found this somewhat challenging because this is where I picked the boards and assigned their fate.
> 
> "You will be this and you will be that. No, wait, you are not wide enough. Go back into that stack. Now I need another one these but that means I will have to cut you in half…. Am I sure? "
> 
> I need the boards for the top to be ~ 5" wide. I will preserve length and thickness for now. Still in order to rip them to length I needed a reference edge first. THIS was the hardest part. Running a 6" wide, 8' long 10/4 maple board across I meager Rigid jointer was work. Everything is still well over sized. These rollers I picked from the local Sears that is going out of business were a godsend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got a decent edge, I ripped at the band saw. My Rikon performed quite admirably. I did recently put a woodslicer blade on it. There was a tension in some of the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> Some of the cherry waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Here is a smaller more ordered lumber pile. The final top thickness is 4". I need 12 boards for the top, the front dovetail face board and the dog hole strip. I have 11 that are 5" wide. I have 2 others that are 4 1/2" and 4 1/4" BEFORE MILLING so they are not going to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the long stretchers and the 4/4 shelving below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> These will be laminated into the cherry legs. The plan calls for 32" long legs but I cut these at 36". You can see that I still have some checking at the ends that I need to cut out or epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> Now, check out this board. It is different from all the others. It was 8 ft but had a punky knot 1/3 down the length. I had to cut that out. I assigned this to a long stretcher. But look at this grain! I don't know that I will use this in a workbench. Should I save it for other projects? What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> The chop will end up 2 1/2" thick and the calls for 9" wide 12/4 stock and I don't have any. This these two pieces will be laminated. Also, a cool Starrett machinist hammer that I dig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I think I have things under control for now. I need to laminate some of the cherry cut offs for the tail vise block which also calls for 12/4 stock. Also I need to splice the thin maple boards to get up to 5" wide stock.
> 
> Thanks.


Build baby build! Milling the lumber is the least fun part.


----------



## BrandonW

lysdexic said:


> *Rough Dimensioning*
> 
> I spent the weekend cutting the lumber into bite size peices. I found this somewhat challenging because this is where I picked the boards and assigned their fate.
> 
> "You will be this and you will be that. No, wait, you are not wide enough. Go back into that stack. Now I need another one these but that means I will have to cut you in half…. Am I sure? "
> 
> I need the boards for the top to be ~ 5" wide. I will preserve length and thickness for now. Still in order to rip them to length I needed a reference edge first. THIS was the hardest part. Running a 6" wide, 8' long 10/4 maple board across I meager Rigid jointer was work. Everything is still well over sized. These rollers I picked from the local Sears that is going out of business were a godsend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got a decent edge, I ripped at the band saw. My Rikon performed quite admirably. I did recently put a woodslicer blade on it. There was a tension in some of the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> Some of the cherry waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Here is a smaller more ordered lumber pile. The final top thickness is 4". I need 12 boards for the top, the front dovetail face board and the dog hole strip. I have 11 that are 5" wide. I have 2 others that are 4 1/2" and 4 1/4" BEFORE MILLING so they are not going to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the long stretchers and the 4/4 shelving below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> These will be laminated into the cherry legs. The plan calls for 32" long legs but I cut these at 36". You can see that I still have some checking at the ends that I need to cut out or epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> Now, check out this board. It is different from all the others. It was 8 ft but had a punky knot 1/3 down the length. I had to cut that out. I assigned this to a long stretcher. But look at this grain! I don't know that I will use this in a workbench. Should I save it for other projects? What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> The chop will end up 2 1/2" thick and the calls for 9" wide 12/4 stock and I don't have any. This these two pieces will be laminated. Also, a cool Starrett machinist hammer that I dig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I think I have things under control for now. I need to laminate some of the cherry cut offs for the tail vise block which also calls for 12/4 stock. Also I need to splice the thin maple boards to get up to 5" wide stock.
> 
> Thanks.


You're making progress! Pretty soon you'll be gluing 

Love that hammer, by the way--it could be your new signature just like Andy works that square into as many pictures as he can.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Rough Dimensioning*
> 
> I spent the weekend cutting the lumber into bite size peices. I found this somewhat challenging because this is where I picked the boards and assigned their fate.
> 
> "You will be this and you will be that. No, wait, you are not wide enough. Go back into that stack. Now I need another one these but that means I will have to cut you in half…. Am I sure? "
> 
> I need the boards for the top to be ~ 5" wide. I will preserve length and thickness for now. Still in order to rip them to length I needed a reference edge first. THIS was the hardest part. Running a 6" wide, 8' long 10/4 maple board across I meager Rigid jointer was work. Everything is still well over sized. These rollers I picked from the local Sears that is going out of business were a godsend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got a decent edge, I ripped at the band saw. My Rikon performed quite admirably. I did recently put a woodslicer blade on it. There was a tension in some of the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> Some of the cherry waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Here is a smaller more ordered lumber pile. The final top thickness is 4". I need 12 boards for the top, the front dovetail face board and the dog hole strip. I have 11 that are 5" wide. I have 2 others that are 4 1/2" and 4 1/4" BEFORE MILLING so they are not going to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the long stretchers and the 4/4 shelving below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> These will be laminated into the cherry legs. The plan calls for 32" long legs but I cut these at 36". You can see that I still have some checking at the ends that I need to cut out or epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> Now, check out this board. It is different from all the others. It was 8 ft but had a punky knot 1/3 down the length. I had to cut that out. I assigned this to a long stretcher. But look at this grain! I don't know that I will use this in a workbench. Should I save it for other projects? What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> The chop will end up 2 1/2" thick and the calls for 9" wide 12/4 stock and I don't have any. This these two pieces will be laminated. Also, a cool Starrett machinist hammer that I dig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I think I have things under control for now. I need to laminate some of the cherry cut offs for the tail vise block which also calls for 12/4 stock. Also I need to splice the thin maple boards to get up to 5" wide stock.
> 
> Thanks.


Yeah. I'd like to do my final milling and glue up the top within 3 days. I am camping with the boy scouts this weekend and then off to Brevard the next. But….....If I can.


----------



## RGtools

lysdexic said:


> *Rough Dimensioning*
> 
> I spent the weekend cutting the lumber into bite size peices. I found this somewhat challenging because this is where I picked the boards and assigned their fate.
> 
> "You will be this and you will be that. No, wait, you are not wide enough. Go back into that stack. Now I need another one these but that means I will have to cut you in half…. Am I sure? "
> 
> I need the boards for the top to be ~ 5" wide. I will preserve length and thickness for now. Still in order to rip them to length I needed a reference edge first. THIS was the hardest part. Running a 6" wide, 8' long 10/4 maple board across I meager Rigid jointer was work. Everything is still well over sized. These rollers I picked from the local Sears that is going out of business were a godsend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got a decent edge, I ripped at the band saw. My Rikon performed quite admirably. I did recently put a woodslicer blade on it. There was a tension in some of the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> Some of the cherry waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Here is a smaller more ordered lumber pile. The final top thickness is 4". I need 12 boards for the top, the front dovetail face board and the dog hole strip. I have 11 that are 5" wide. I have 2 others that are 4 1/2" and 4 1/4" BEFORE MILLING so they are not going to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the long stretchers and the 4/4 shelving below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> These will be laminated into the cherry legs. The plan calls for 32" long legs but I cut these at 36". You can see that I still have some checking at the ends that I need to cut out or epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> Now, check out this board. It is different from all the others. It was 8 ft but had a punky knot 1/3 down the length. I had to cut that out. I assigned this to a long stretcher. But look at this grain! I don't know that I will use this in a workbench. Should I save it for other projects? What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> The chop will end up 2 1/2" thick and the calls for 9" wide 12/4 stock and I don't have any. This these two pieces will be laminated. Also, a cool Starrett machinist hammer that I dig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I think I have things under control for now. I need to laminate some of the cherry cut offs for the tail vise block which also calls for 12/4 stock. Also I need to splice the thin maple boards to get up to 5" wide stock.
> 
> Thanks.


I have the same problem with that first step as far as choosing a boards final fate…it takes me a long time.

Keep up the build, I am sure this bench will look and work great.


----------



## GrandpaLen

lysdexic said:


> *Rough Dimensioning*
> 
> I spent the weekend cutting the lumber into bite size peices. I found this somewhat challenging because this is where I picked the boards and assigned their fate.
> 
> "You will be this and you will be that. No, wait, you are not wide enough. Go back into that stack. Now I need another one these but that means I will have to cut you in half…. Am I sure? "
> 
> I need the boards for the top to be ~ 5" wide. I will preserve length and thickness for now. Still in order to rip them to length I needed a reference edge first. THIS was the hardest part. Running a 6" wide, 8' long 10/4 maple board across I meager Rigid jointer was work. Everything is still well over sized. These rollers I picked from the local Sears that is going out of business were a godsend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got a decent edge, I ripped at the band saw. My Rikon performed quite admirably. I did recently put a woodslicer blade on it. There was a tension in some of the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> Some of the cherry waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Here is a smaller more ordered lumber pile. The final top thickness is 4". I need 12 boards for the top, the front dovetail face board and the dog hole strip. I have 11 that are 5" wide. I have 2 others that are 4 1/2" and 4 1/4" BEFORE MILLING so they are not going to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the long stretchers and the 4/4 shelving below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> These will be laminated into the cherry legs. The plan calls for 32" long legs but I cut these at 36". You can see that I still have some checking at the ends that I need to cut out or epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> Now, check out this board. It is different from all the others. It was 8 ft but had a punky knot 1/3 down the length. I had to cut that out. I assigned this to a long stretcher. But look at this grain! I don't know that I will use this in a workbench. Should I save it for other projects? What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> The chop will end up 2 1/2" thick and the calls for 9" wide 12/4 stock and I don't have any. This these two pieces will be laminated. Also, a cool Starrett machinist hammer that I dig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I think I have things under control for now. I need to laminate some of the cherry cut offs for the tail vise block which also calls for 12/4 stock. Also I need to splice the thin maple boards to get up to 5" wide stock.
> 
> Thanks.


Alot of thought has gone into a project of this magnitude.
You've thought it through and cut some lumber, that's the impetus to create your vision.

Milling, glue-ups, assembly and finishing are akin to your dedication to nurturing you Scout Group or raising a child.
You do the best you can and the results are your personal measurement of the man you've become.

Attention to even the mundane, affects the results. You'll do well.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Rough Dimensioning*
> 
> I spent the weekend cutting the lumber into bite size peices. I found this somewhat challenging because this is where I picked the boards and assigned their fate.
> 
> "You will be this and you will be that. No, wait, you are not wide enough. Go back into that stack. Now I need another one these but that means I will have to cut you in half…. Am I sure? "
> 
> I need the boards for the top to be ~ 5" wide. I will preserve length and thickness for now. Still in order to rip them to length I needed a reference edge first. THIS was the hardest part. Running a 6" wide, 8' long 10/4 maple board across I meager Rigid jointer was work. Everything is still well over sized. These rollers I picked from the local Sears that is going out of business were a godsend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got a decent edge, I ripped at the band saw. My Rikon performed quite admirably. I did recently put a woodslicer blade on it. There was a tension in some of the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> Some of the cherry waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Here is a smaller more ordered lumber pile. The final top thickness is 4". I need 12 boards for the top, the front dovetail face board and the dog hole strip. I have 11 that are 5" wide. I have 2 others that are 4 1/2" and 4 1/4" BEFORE MILLING so they are not going to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the long stretchers and the 4/4 shelving below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> These will be laminated into the cherry legs. The plan calls for 32" long legs but I cut these at 36". You can see that I still have some checking at the ends that I need to cut out or epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> Now, check out this board. It is different from all the others. It was 8 ft but had a punky knot 1/3 down the length. I had to cut that out. I assigned this to a long stretcher. But look at this grain! I don't know that I will use this in a workbench. Should I save it for other projects? What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> The chop will end up 2 1/2" thick and the calls for 9" wide 12/4 stock and I don't have any. This these two pieces will be laminated. Also, a cool Starrett machinist hammer that I dig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I think I have things under control for now. I need to laminate some of the cherry cut offs for the tail vise block which also calls for 12/4 stock. Also I need to splice the thin maple boards to get up to 5" wide stock.
> 
> Thanks.


I don't see a bench-type structure yet… Any progress? (nudge, nudge)


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Rough Dimensioning*
> 
> I spent the weekend cutting the lumber into bite size peices. I found this somewhat challenging because this is where I picked the boards and assigned their fate.
> 
> "You will be this and you will be that. No, wait, you are not wide enough. Go back into that stack. Now I need another one these but that means I will have to cut you in half…. Am I sure? "
> 
> I need the boards for the top to be ~ 5" wide. I will preserve length and thickness for now. Still in order to rip them to length I needed a reference edge first. THIS was the hardest part. Running a 6" wide, 8' long 10/4 maple board across I meager Rigid jointer was work. Everything is still well over sized. These rollers I picked from the local Sears that is going out of business were a godsend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got a decent edge, I ripped at the band saw. My Rikon performed quite admirably. I did recently put a woodslicer blade on it. There was a tension in some of the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> Some of the cherry waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Here is a smaller more ordered lumber pile. The final top thickness is 4". I need 12 boards for the top, the front dovetail face board and the dog hole strip. I have 11 that are 5" wide. I have 2 others that are 4 1/2" and 4 1/4" BEFORE MILLING so they are not going to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the long stretchers and the 4/4 shelving below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> These will be laminated into the cherry legs. The plan calls for 32" long legs but I cut these at 36". You can see that I still have some checking at the ends that I need to cut out or epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> Now, check out this board. It is different from all the others. It was 8 ft but had a punky knot 1/3 down the length. I had to cut that out. I assigned this to a long stretcher. But look at this grain! I don't know that I will use this in a workbench. Should I save it for other projects? What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> The chop will end up 2 1/2" thick and the calls for 9" wide 12/4 stock and I don't have any. This these two pieces will be laminated. Also, a cool Starrett machinist hammer that I dig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I think I have things under control for now. I need to laminate some of the cherry cut offs for the tail vise block which also calls for 12/4 stock. Also I need to splice the thin maple boards to get up to 5" wide stock.
> 
> Thanks.


I have not made one IODA (I've never spelled that word before) of progess since this post. The bench will probably take me over a year :^)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Rough Dimensioning*
> 
> I spent the weekend cutting the lumber into bite size peices. I found this somewhat challenging because this is where I picked the boards and assigned their fate.
> 
> "You will be this and you will be that. No, wait, you are not wide enough. Go back into that stack. Now I need another one these but that means I will have to cut you in half…. Am I sure? "
> 
> I need the boards for the top to be ~ 5" wide. I will preserve length and thickness for now. Still in order to rip them to length I needed a reference edge first. THIS was the hardest part. Running a 6" wide, 8' long 10/4 maple board across I meager Rigid jointer was work. Everything is still well over sized. These rollers I picked from the local Sears that is going out of business were a godsend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got a decent edge, I ripped at the band saw. My Rikon performed quite admirably. I did recently put a woodslicer blade on it. There was a tension in some of the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> Some of the cherry waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Here is a smaller more ordered lumber pile. The final top thickness is 4". I need 12 boards for the top, the front dovetail face board and the dog hole strip. I have 11 that are 5" wide. I have 2 others that are 4 1/2" and 4 1/4" BEFORE MILLING so they are not going to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the long stretchers and the 4/4 shelving below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> These will be laminated into the cherry legs. The plan calls for 32" long legs but I cut these at 36". You can see that I still have some checking at the ends that I need to cut out or epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> Now, check out this board. It is different from all the others. It was 8 ft but had a punky knot 1/3 down the length. I had to cut that out. I assigned this to a long stretcher. But look at this grain! I don't know that I will use this in a workbench. Should I save it for other projects? What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> The chop will end up 2 1/2" thick and the calls for 9" wide 12/4 stock and I don't have any. This these two pieces will be laminated. Also, a cool Starrett machinist hammer that I dig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I think I have things under control for now. I need to laminate some of the cherry cut offs for the tail vise block which also calls for 12/4 stock. Also I need to splice the thin maple boards to get up to 5" wide stock.
> 
> Thanks.


Yeah, that's what Al thinks, too. Pounding his chest over your lack of progress, or something like that…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Rough Dimensioning*
> 
> I spent the weekend cutting the lumber into bite size peices. I found this somewhat challenging because this is where I picked the boards and assigned their fate.
> 
> "You will be this and you will be that. No, wait, you are not wide enough. Go back into that stack. Now I need another one these but that means I will have to cut you in half…. Am I sure? "
> 
> I need the boards for the top to be ~ 5" wide. I will preserve length and thickness for now. Still in order to rip them to length I needed a reference edge first. THIS was the hardest part. Running a 6" wide, 8' long 10/4 maple board across I meager Rigid jointer was work. Everything is still well over sized. These rollers I picked from the local Sears that is going out of business were a godsend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got a decent edge, I ripped at the band saw. My Rikon performed quite admirably. I did recently put a woodslicer blade on it. There was a tension in some of the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> Some of the cherry waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Here is a smaller more ordered lumber pile. The final top thickness is 4". I need 12 boards for the top, the front dovetail face board and the dog hole strip. I have 11 that are 5" wide. I have 2 others that are 4 1/2" and 4 1/4" BEFORE MILLING so they are not going to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the long stretchers and the 4/4 shelving below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> These will be laminated into the cherry legs. The plan calls for 32" long legs but I cut these at 36". You can see that I still have some checking at the ends that I need to cut out or epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> Now, check out this board. It is different from all the others. It was 8 ft but had a punky knot 1/3 down the length. I had to cut that out. I assigned this to a long stretcher. But look at this grain! I don't know that I will use this in a workbench. Should I save it for other projects? What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> The chop will end up 2 1/2" thick and the calls for 9" wide 12/4 stock and I don't have any. This these two pieces will be laminated. Also, a cool Starrett machinist hammer that I dig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I think I have things under control for now. I need to laminate some of the cherry cut offs for the tail vise block which also calls for 12/4 stock. Also I need to splice the thin maple boards to get up to 5" wide stock.
> 
> Thanks.


(heh heh heh)


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Rough Dimensioning*
> 
> I spent the weekend cutting the lumber into bite size peices. I found this somewhat challenging because this is where I picked the boards and assigned their fate.
> 
> "You will be this and you will be that. No, wait, you are not wide enough. Go back into that stack. Now I need another one these but that means I will have to cut you in half…. Am I sure? "
> 
> I need the boards for the top to be ~ 5" wide. I will preserve length and thickness for now. Still in order to rip them to length I needed a reference edge first. THIS was the hardest part. Running a 6" wide, 8' long 10/4 maple board across I meager Rigid jointer was work. Everything is still well over sized. These rollers I picked from the local Sears that is going out of business were a godsend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got a decent edge, I ripped at the band saw. My Rikon performed quite admirably. I did recently put a woodslicer blade on it. There was a tension in some of the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> Some of the cherry waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Here is a smaller more ordered lumber pile. The final top thickness is 4". I need 12 boards for the top, the front dovetail face board and the dog hole strip. I have 11 that are 5" wide. I have 2 others that are 4 1/2" and 4 1/4" BEFORE MILLING so they are not going to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the long stretchers and the 4/4 shelving below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> These will be laminated into the cherry legs. The plan calls for 32" long legs but I cut these at 36". You can see that I still have some checking at the ends that I need to cut out or epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> Now, check out this board. It is different from all the others. It was 8 ft but had a punky knot 1/3 down the length. I had to cut that out. I assigned this to a long stretcher. But look at this grain! I don't know that I will use this in a workbench. Should I save it for other projects? What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> The chop will end up 2 1/2" thick and the calls for 9" wide 12/4 stock and I don't have any. This these two pieces will be laminated. Also, a cool Starrett machinist hammer that I dig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> I think I have things under control for now. I need to laminate some of the cherry cut offs for the tail vise block which also calls for 12/4 stock. Also I need to splice the thin maple boards to get up to 5" wide stock.
> 
> Thanks.


Going strong! I love the figure surrounding that knot.


----------



## lysdexic

*Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*

Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.

Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable







































Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....




























I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.




























The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.



























































































gluing









and clamping









and gluing









and clamping











Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother














































Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gluing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and gluing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Huzzah!!!  looking awesome!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gluing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and gluing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Smitty,
I spent the day trying to mill the boards for the top. I just don't think I am properly equipped. Trying to get those boards across my little Rigid jointer without introducing more error is laughable. I have come to the conclusion that my projects need to remain 6' or less - after the workbench that is.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gluing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and gluing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Looking good buddy, but I think you could have done with more clamps on those legs. 

Seriously though, once you've built your workbench, you'll be able to flatten longer boards by hand. Now that's something to look forward to isn't it?

Nice progress.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
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> 
> gluing
> 
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> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> and gluing
> 
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> and clamping
> 
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> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
> 
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> 
> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


A few hand planes, a workmate, at least 2 buckets of saw dust and a beer. That's a good day!!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
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> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
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> 
> gluing
> 
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> 
> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> and gluing
> 
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> 
> and clamping
> 
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> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
> 
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> 
> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Man, that's some precision on those legs. The finished surfaces look incredible.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
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> gluing
> 
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> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> and gluing
> 
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> 
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> 
> and clamping
> 
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> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
> 
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Works for me Don.

I agree Smitty - legs to be proud of. I'm jealous already.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
> 
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> gluing
> 
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> 
> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> and gluing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
> 
> 
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> 
> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Don, it has been good. But it has been more than just one day!

Andy, I am not overly dogmatic to realize that I could use some help. I am going to call my lumber guy to see if we can run these 96" x 5" x 10/4 boards over his 14" jointer. It should take no time and I can get this this moving.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> gluing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and gluing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


The extra leg is going to a good thing. I do not have extra material to make significant mistakes on the cherry legs. Thus, with each new operation, I will perform it on the pine leg first.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> gluing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and gluing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Also, this is the only significant deviation form the plan (thanks to Andy's inspiration although he doesn't probably realize it). The plan calls for 5 3/8" x 3 1/2".

My final dimensions are 5 3/8" x 5 1/8". Square legs look much better - to me.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> gluing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and gluing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and clamping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Another thing. The length is 34" which 2" longer than the 32" plan. The leg is to have 1 1/2" tenon on top. If I screw it up, then I have enough length for a mulligan.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> gluing
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> and clamping
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> and gluing
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> and clamping
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Ok, I'll bite. What the hell is a mulligan? I did Google it, but only found out that it is a free shot sometiimes given to golf players or a style of Reef mens sandals. I also got loads of hits for Carey Mulligan. Somehow I think you had something else in mind.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
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> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
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> gluing
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> and clamping
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> and gluing
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> and clamping
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Andy, you got it. It is a golfing term but commonly refers to getting a second chance or getting a second shot if you shank the first.


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## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
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> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
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> gluing
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> and clamping
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> and gluing
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> and clamping
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> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Thanks.


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## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
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> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
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> gluing
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> and clamping
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> and gluing
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> and clamping
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> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


I know it is a bit cheeky of me, but since you are building my dream bench, I'm looking on yours as the prototype for mine. HAHA.


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## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
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> gluing
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> and clamping
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> and gluing
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> and clamping
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> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Progress! The legs look great. Shouldnt be long now…and "they" said it would take a year. You will be bone by early next week, at the latest.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
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> gluing
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> and clamping
> 
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> and gluing
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> and clamping
> 
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> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
> 
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Thats cool. I will be more diligent in pointing out the mistakes and near misses. I'm honored to have you or any that are interested to learn from my mistakes.

That being said - I am struggling with the whole hand vs machine aspect of this build. Thus far I have relied heavily on machine work then fine tuned it hand tools. Maybe I am missing precious opportunities to practice my hand tools skills. I don't trust my hand tool skills yet plus the time it would take. Al, has only given me ONE year to complete this.


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
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> 
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
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> 
> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
> 
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> gluing
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> and clamping
> 
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> and gluing
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> and clamping
> 
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> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
> 
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> 
> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Way to go Scott, I agree that the surface on that cherry looks amazing, that is going to be one handsome bench.

I too hate planer snipe, I've bee doing all the squaring of my bench top parts by hand, I mean if I have to put it through the planer and then plane down the whole middle of the board then whats the point of the planer?


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## BrandonW

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
> 
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> 
> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
> 
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> gluing
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> and clamping
> 
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> and gluing
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> and clamping
> 
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> 
> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
> 
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Loving these photos, Scott! No shame in having the boards run through a big planer--I did!  Best of luck on the rest of the build and keep taking photos.


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
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> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
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> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Yeah, no shame in that at all! Even better if he has a big drum sander which wont give you any snipe issues.


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## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
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> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
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> gluing
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


I wouldn't put a whole lot of thought into the hand tool versus power tool dilemma. Use what ever is most appropriate.

I'd love to have cherry in my bench. Cherry is one of those woods that really darken with age. It has great patina after its been used a while.


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## MoshupTrail

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
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> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


@Mauricio - One way to deal with planer snipe is to leave your boards all 6" too long while planing. Then cut off the snipe (usually about 3") when you do your final cut-to-length. Another way is to run your boards through end-to-end - but that requires two people and you still get snipe on the first board and the last board - although you can sub in a shorter sacrificial board at each end.


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
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> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


I agree Don, I wasn't getting philosophical with the power tool comment. I wish I could prep my wood for glue up with my little ridged planer but snipe ads more work and planning. I think I will try to put my legs through the planer to square them up but I expect to have to do some hand planning to get rid of the snipe.

The sacrificial leg would help you since you would have something to feed through the planer right behind your real leg to eliminate the snipe on the back end but it's not practical, you would need help.


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
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> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Moshup, you got my thinking. You could make a couple of smaller blocks to feed in before and after the legs to elimiate the snipe. You would only have to use them on the final passes. It would save a lot of time overall.


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## MoshupTrail

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
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> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
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> gluing
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


You'll need to keep that sacrificial piece in there for every pass - so it's exactly the right size.


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## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
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> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
> 
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
> 
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> gluing
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> and clamping
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Outstanding man! The legs came out beautiful, i wholeheartedly agree with Smitty, the precision is really spectacular. The piece of maple in your first shots is absolutely gorgeous. Your bench is going to be stunning Lysdexic.

Fun stuff. Thanks.


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## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
> 
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> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
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> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Man that is one mass of clamps. It is looking very nice. You are doing a fine job and it is coming on along.
~
One thing you can do for the snipe is build a torsion box about six foot long and 3 to 4 inches thick. Build it a little less wide than the bed of your planer. Put it inside the planer bed with equal lengths sticking out each side. Two main reasons for snipe on a table planer are the bushings kicking when the board enters and exits, then the table extensions always leave something to be desired. The torsion box takes the table slop out and a bit of the bushing problem. my $.02
~
You are doing an outstanding job.


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
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> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
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> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Dave, I would need a picture of that. I'm having trouble visualizing it.


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## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
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> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
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> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


This is where I learned it. At 8:30 you will see what I am talking about.


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
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> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
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> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Thanks Dave, I got to think about that one.


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## MoshupTrail

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
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> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


@Dave & Mauricio - maybe we need a whole forum on "lunchbox planer snipe".
So here's the thing: If what Dave is doing is working (and I believe it is), but also it works to send through a sacrificial piece before and after the board you are planing, then we have two distinctly different causes of snipe. One, is what Dave is talking about - not getting your board in exactly straight due to the short and slightly flexible lead-in table. The other must be something else. I've used the sacrificial board technique and I know it's 100% effective, and yet I must still have the problem that Dave describes. So there is something else going on in that planer! (I've got the same Ridgid as Dave) It must have something to do with having upward pressure on two rollers versus one roller - or why would the sacrificial board work so well?


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
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> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


http://woodgears.ca/jointer/planer_snipe.html
There is the other cause


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## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Legs*
> 
> Progress is slow. But this is what is going on. The pics will do most the talking but the title says it all.
> 
> Some of the maple for the top was not wide enough so I glued some cut offs from the bigger pieces to make them useable
> 
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> Next I turned my attention to the cherry legs…....
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> 
> I decided to make a sacrificial, practice leg from 2×6 "white wood" from lowes.
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> 
> The Cherry boards are ready for glue-up but before a proceed, I am just not confident the my planner is up to the task a producing a flat surface. So I give a glue surface a go over with the #7. The snipe is significant.
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> Finally, may I introduce the four cherry legs and the sacrificial brother
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> Oh, and another one the 6 or 7 or 8 buckets of saw dust


Man! that cherry looks wonderful!


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## lysdexic

*Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*

I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.





































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Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.










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I sign of things to come…...........



















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Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.

Thanks for stopping by.


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## BrandonW

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
> 
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Good bye old maple dining table. Hello nicely milled workbench wood!


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## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


You are really gaining on it now. Looks like it is going to be a winner.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Just to see how it is going to look.


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## BrandonW

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


BEEFY, Scott! It dwarfs my bench. [In defense of my bench, I only have a one-car garage as a workspace.]


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## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Gonna be a real looker. Awesome!


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Right now it sits about an inch higher than the final. Yet the length will diminish dramatically. The current length is 96". I have about 3" of snipe on each end. The plan calls for 87" but I think that is too long for my space. I am considering 83" - all of the shortening to occur on the left hand side so it is not symmetrical.


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Great progress Scott! That thing is going to be sweet!


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## GrandpaLen

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Good luck and best wishes in forming the relationship with your new bench, ;-) .

Work Safe and have fun. - Len


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Holy cow, that bench is gonna be a monster! With everything coming together as it is, can't imagine this bench build not COMPLETING this month… as in, Apr 2012. Outstanding, Scott.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Gluing the top. Using some borrowed clamps and dominoed the bottom to keep the bottom surface aligned. I think that I have made my first major mistake. Given the amount of surface to be glued, I switched to a roller. Upon clamping pressure I did not get the gluegasm that I wanted. I am afraid that I have starved the joint to some degree. It seemed like enough glue though. Hmmm.

To go through all this effort to let a bit of glue give you angst. Ain't nothing that I can do now.


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## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Scott - As long as you put glue on each mating surface and didn't miss any areas, you should be fine. Great job with the clamping. That is going to be one sweet bench. Mine will only be 6ft long when I eventually build it as my workshop is only 9ft x 9 ft and I don't want it against a wall. Keep up the momentum and you'll have it done in no time.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Thanks Andy. I definitely put glue on all surfaces. I am just anal and tend to perseverate. *But*, if it is a problem I guess one could to the epoxy and razor blade to get it into any gaps. Just trying to think ahead.


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
> 
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


What did you see as the problem Scott, did you net see any squeez out?


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


I got squeeze out in only about 50% of the joint gaps. I put packing tape on the clamps underneath just so clean up would be easier. That was a waste of time. I am sure it will be fine. It just bugs the piss out of me when something a simple as a little glue can ruin your karma.


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


I just read a tip wher you can put glue on there and blow it into the gaps w compressed air instead of using the candybar wrapper trick. But you might be ok just squeegying it in w your finger.


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## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Scott, or should I call you K-body boy. That thing's going to be an absolute beast. It the split top narrow enough to push through your planer or are you doing it old school? It's going to be one spectacular bench. But what's taking you so long? I've already got my top glued up


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Compressed air? Sounds like a mess but thanks for the tip. Plus, I don't have a compressor. I don't think it will be bad. It is just poor execution on my part.

Hey Bitch, uh I mean Bertha, the split top is narrow enough to go thru the planer. But you still need to joint a surface again. My Rigid jointer is no match. My hand plane jointing skills are no match - yet. Thus, I am doing it the yuppie way and taking it back to TWS and skimming the bottom on the big jointer and drum sander. Like you, I have no pride :^) Seriously, my hats off to those guys who can pull off this commercial size project with their consumer sized tools in their home shop.

Also, your separate question concerning the modification of the split to a monolithic slab. That is easy the difficulty is the installation of the BC tail vise. There are steps done prior to full lamination. Yet, there is a PDF on the BC website on how to retrofit a slab with the tail vise.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Mauricio,

Out of curiosity - what type of epoxy would I use?


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Oh, I was talking about wood glue. I wouldnt know about epoxy.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


So what if there's not enough glue in the joints? Then it'd really be a Split Roubo…



(just kidding, had to go for the cheap pun though.)


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Smitty! Take it back!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Roller or otherwise, you've certainly got enough glue that it won't come apart. No way.

Consider it 'taken back,' don't want no bad karma!

Seeing all the clamps you have access to made me think to my glue up (I have those 2 3/4" oak pieces front and back for solid edge and to get the top up to 24"). Anyway, when I glued those it was with three pipe clamps. Total. Three clamps. I was sweating it. But nothing moved when they came off, and nothing's moved since then. And you know alot more about bench building that I did when mine went together, that's for sure.

That maple 'n cherry bench is going to be righteous, my man…


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## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Scott, you don't change your engine at home. If I had a mill near me, I'd get my damn hair cut there. You're already past the point I was scared about, the milling. I got some catching up to do and I'm secretly worried about my tail vise assembly. I know there are wood screw ones out there but I haven't done my homework. I'm going to use a massive slab of BigLeaf maple bought from stockmaker (LJ). Bench is going to be Epic, Scott, I mean Bitch.


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## sandhill

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


[email protected] Ever used West Systems? Good stuff.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Sandhill, nope I had to Google it to fing out it was marine epoxy.

I have the larger back slab glued up. I will take it down tomorrow and get the final milling done. I got the gluegasm that I missed on the front slab. I kinda over did it.



















_

Relaxed and processed some of the cherry scrap. I am ready to make some 3/8" cherry dowels. Wasn't Ken working on a dowel plate?


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## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


MOAR clamps!!

I apologize for being dense but could you elaborate on "dominoed the bottom to keep the bottom surface aligned", please? I am not getting it :-/

Nice work Scott. Thanks for sharing.


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Thats some good squeezout Scott.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


@Tony,

The Festool Domino creates a mortise that accepts pre-made tenons. It is dead nuts accurate and easy as pie to use. In this application, *before glue up*, I turned all the stock over so that I was looking at the bottom of the slab. The domino referenced from the bottom surface and created a mortise. Thus, during glue up the dominoes keep the bottom surface aligned and thus the top as well.

Nothing new here, it is the same a biscuit joiner. This not my technique as I learned it from the Wood Whisperers guild.

In this situation, my stock was milled to result in a 4 1/4" thick top. If I had a bunch of slipping and sliding and malalignment during glue up, it could have lost alot of the thickness milling the slabs back to a flat surface.

Remember, this is a big glue up with heavy boards and I am a rookie. So I am trying to everything that I can to stack the odds in my favor.

Hope that makes sense.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


Alright this blog entry is done. The slabs are glued, milled to 4 1/16" thick and and cut to length.

Note to those who care. Prior to glue up you need to select grain direction and align the grain for ease of flattening with a handplane. My wood has alot of imperfections, knots and grain direction changes so I gave up. My proposed solution is a BU jointer with a 50 degree iron. We will see.

Clamping pressure










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Galoots - shield your eyes!



















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The slabs….......










Now on to the joinery for the tail vise installation.


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


dont be ashamed of the power tools Scott, this job is too big to not use them.


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## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
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> I sign of things to come…...........
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


It makes perfect sense. Thank ya sir.


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## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Milling, gluing and clamping - The Slabs*
> 
> I took my lumber for the top to Rick's at The Woodworking Source to mill it up. What is taking my better part of 2 days we knocked out in about an hour and a half. These are some pics of Rick's place. Its interesting that Rick does not do woodworking outside of work. He golfs because it is what he does to forget about what he does when he needs to forget about what he does. He is a professional and a great asset.
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> 
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> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Nevertheless, it is time to say good bye to the hand-me-down dining table. It has served me well. It was donated by one of my partners (business Al, business) who stated that could do as I please. I am still waiting for inspiration on its fate. It is solid maple and deserves a fitting second life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I sign of things to come…...........
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Glue ups in the am but these temps may make things interesting.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by.


That workmate is saying, "get this crap off me!". Looking awesome!


----------



## lysdexic

*The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*

So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.

I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....

MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................

Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.




























Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.










I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.










With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.










The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!




























Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.










Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.










Next is the end cap….........


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


Man, that's joinery on a grand scale and looks great! Excellent progress, despite all obstacles. Yee-haw!!!


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


thats going to be one strong bench,looking good


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## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


Great update Scott. Going to be a beauty. Looking forward to the reveal!


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


Tenons on steroids. Exciting, I am hanging on the edge of my seat.
zdcdsds s 8 s77P9 s ds d
opps fell off, OK I got control now. Man that is looking nice.


----------



## SPalm

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


Yikes. That is huge work.
Keep on keeping on.

Steve


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


Great work Scott, nice to see the router plane in action, and good idea with the 2×4. That thing is going to be magnificent!


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


The bridge over the tenon with router plane fix is totally orthopedic. Are you using your Festool extractor top as a shavings collector? If so, bravo.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


Thank ye fellers! Al, I don't understand your Festool question.

Nevermind. I went back and saw what you are seeing. That certainly makes me pause and consider what is in the background of my pics. Hmm. One could have a bit of fun with this.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


^lol. I already spotted a case of Jack in another one of your pictures. I was just thinking what the fine engineers over at Festool would think of their extractors piled with plane shavings. "Vlad, look at this American, soiling our machines with his fetid primitive tool belchings". Good work.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


Beautiful work Scott. Your precision is almost surgical. How did you develop your techni ….. nevermind.

My appreciation for the domino picture, too.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


^Dominos happen. Scott knows a thing or two about Mexican Train. He also knows a thing or two about tiny running shorts. Only a matter of time until a Domino or two is showing.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


Someday I may speak Festool, but then again, maybe it's best I never do (if it indeed leads to tiny running shorts…)


----------



## GrandpaLen

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


WOW!! I'm stoked!

That's Sweet, coming together nicely. ...your prowess is showing. - Len


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


^Scotty, I'm just now noticing your hammer, having scoured the background of your shop for anything I can pick on. I just can't get past how pretty that hammer is. That is all…for now.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


lol Wow.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


Thank you Sir Allen. I wish that I had a fancy royal-looking logo or initial on mine. Seriously.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


Tony, an interesting thing with the Dominos. There are settings for the width of the length of the mortise. One setting matches the tenon perfectly. I used the next setting allows a little play lengthwise. I used this setting be because I was concerned about matching the boards height but nof so much along their length. I chose this so as to not struggle during the glue up.

That is why there is space around the domino.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


^You're quite welcome, Scott. But it's actually a tattoo bearing the inscription, "Welcome to Jamaica, have a nice day". 
.
Edit: that's actually a pretty clever use of the domino. Many would argue that the domino is more than a glorified biscuit. True, but it still retains the lovely alignment qualities of the lowly biscuit. I think you've done right by both the domino and space. And by space I mean intergalactic space.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *The End Tenon and Screw Cavity*
> 
> So the end of this week has been kind of weird. My wife had a yard sale. Man, that is a lot of work to get rid of crap that you shouldn't have bought in the first place. The in-law relatives came down from West Virgini. My brother graciously came in to give me a hand on the bench but I came down with a viral gastritis.
> 
> I was socially wrangled, mentally distracted and physically diminished. But we can't let that get in the way. This is a hobby, a pilgrimage and an obsession…....
> 
> MUST…...................USE…..........................POWERS…................
> 
> Marking out the end tenon. It is getting late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marc demonstrates cutting the end tenon with his track saw but I have a crappy blade on my circ saw and that the miter saw with the depth stop was a acceptable idea. It wasn't as the saw didn't make it all the way thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished it up with X-cut D-8 but this obvious left 2 planes to the cut and requires planing and paring the end grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a block, shoulder and chisels I went to work. The tenon was going out square. it was still too big and it wasn't going so well so I stopped here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next morning I had an epiphany. With a piece a cut-off I turned my tenon into a dado and the router plane made quick and exacting work of it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I prepared to route out the cavity for the tail vise screw. In order to to give the route base support I joint an edge of a tubafore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Point of interest. During the excavation I ran into a domino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is the end cap….........


Got it. Thank you for the tutelage.


----------



## lysdexic

*The End Cap*

Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.

A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.

Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.




























Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.




























Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.














































Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
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> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
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> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
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> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


Wow, awesome fit!


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## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
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> 
> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
> 
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> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
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> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


whoa! Two updates in one day. This thing is really coming together, and quickly.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
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> 
> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
> 
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> 
> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
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> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


Thanks Shane and Smitty. Like I said - only 11 months to go.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
> 
> 
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> 
> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
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> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


What do you guys think about my comment on glue ups? Am I biased in my observation?


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## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
> 
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> 
> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
> 
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> 
> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
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> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


Eleven months. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
Ii would be able to sleep with that beauty in my shop. No wait I would be sleeping with it in my shop
You are doing an excellent job. Bravo


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
> 
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> 
> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
> 
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> 
> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
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> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


Now thats and end cap! I agree nothing like a hand planed joint.

Dave, I'm with you, I would have to sleep on it the first couple of nights.


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## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
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> 
> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
> 
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> 
> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
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> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


Jeez, I'm so far behind. You're on a tear!


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## tsangell

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
> 
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> 
> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
> 
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> 
> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
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> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


Cherry and Maple = Peas and Carrots


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## RGtools

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
> 
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> 
> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
> 
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> 
> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
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> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


I could not agree more when it comes to machine vs hand joints. I think this might be the single best reason to have a jointer plane in your shop whether you have a love affair with your Powermatic or your Disston.

This build is looking fantastic. Thanks for sharing. The last pic with the washer is great.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
> 
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> 
> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
> 
> 
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> 
> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
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> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


RG, I wasn't quite sure what you thought was so commendable about that last pic. Then I realized that is actually a great example of a machined glue joint. I assume that was your point.


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## RGtools

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
> 
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> 
> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
> 
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> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


Actually I was amused by the modified washer. But you are right about the comparison.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
> 
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> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


An update on the end cap. Somehow I was off on the holes for the flange bolts. Not much but enough.



















-------------------------------------------------------------------
I could "waller" out the hole and make it fit but decided to do it right. Crap! No 5/16" dowel in the shop. I sure could have used a dowel plate. So, off to Lowes's for a $.079 dowel. Glued in and flush cut with a Veritas flush cut saw.




























----------------------------------------------------------------

I broke out the template again and re-marked. Then redrilled and the difference is evident. The flange and bolts go in smoothly now.


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## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
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> 
> 
> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


Nice save.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


Just sayin' but…
...if you would have got all the way home from Lowes and realize you left your dowel in the bag at the self-checkout…
....I would have laughed at you.
.
It's looking great. I would have just wallered it, so you've got one on me.


----------



## RGtools

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


I might have done the same Al. I hate going to town. But then again I always have doweling material on hand (grampa's favorite joint it seems) so I might have taken the extra time. In any case it looks like the time was worth it.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The End Cap*
> 
> Although, from a design perspective, I wanted to use cherry for a vertical components and maple for all horizontal components, I just couldn't resist making my end cap out of cherry.
> 
> A comment about glue ups. In my limited experience there is a difference in a glue up when using machined surfaces and hand plane surfaces. On the machined surface there usually remains a line. It is a small line but still a line. The only glue ups that I have done the joint completely disappears are the ones that I have gone over with a #7 and sometimes a smoother.
> 
> Look at this glue up a 8/4 cherry for the end cap. That one line is a natural mark in the wood. This just amazes me. I know simple minds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nevertheless, I cut it to length. "Snuck" up on the thickness with a #5 and #7. I then marked the tenon onto the end cap and routed out the cavity -* leaving the lines*. I then trimmed the tenon down with a block plane until a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then using a supplied template I drilled out the holes for the various screws. Some how, which I can't figure out, one of the screw's washers wouldn't fit so had file one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking. I hope to be done in 11 months.


Unfortunately, I live in yuppie suburbia and the lowes is around the corner. I had 1/2" and 3/8" on hand but no 5/16. I was cussing Kenny and his line of dowel plates that never happened. That is what I needed t the time.


----------



## lysdexic

*Dog Hole Strip*

These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.

I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.

Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.

During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.

Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.




























------------------------------------------------------------------
In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.










----------------------------------------------------------------
After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.










I clamped it in place to see how it will look.



















-----------------------------------------------------------------
The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.



















-----------------------------------------------------------------
I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.










-------------------------------------------------------------------
It getting there…............










Thank you all for taking the time.


----------



## tsangell

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


I can tell this is going to be a favorite. The materials you chose and the crispness of the work is really making an attractive bench.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Nice progress Scott. It is looking great buddy.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


So totally Wow!!! (no superlative seems appropriate)


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


I agree with the above. You're lines are great. Just a hint of spalding. Its great! (or as smitty would say super great)


----------



## Jimi_C

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


A little late now, but next time you could use the masking tape trick for routing. Just put a few layers on the inside edge of your template and route things out, then remove the tape for a nice light skim cut to remove any burning. You're using maple, which burns pretty easily so it's not necessarily anything you did wrong.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Thanks for the tip Jimi_C.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Your nearing the home stretch now Scott, I know its going to be torture having to take a two week break.

Great job on the wood selection. Its going to look incredible.


----------



## SPalm

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Hey Scott, that is looking so nice. You will be sitting at that guy for hours and smiling - I know you will.

As far as burning - sometimes it just goes that way. But it does look like you got a lot of it. I got much better results when I totally switched to 3/4" Whiteside instead of cheaper bits. And final skim cuts are a godsend.

This is inspiring to watch,
Steve


----------



## sb194

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Nice job Scott. It is going to be a great bench when you are done. I am in the process of designing my bench, and seeing your progress is only making me want to start sooner. Looking forward to the next post.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Mauricio - I am so far from the home stretch…..... but thanks for the encouragement.

Steve - That routing was done with a brand new 3/4" whitesides with 1/2 " shank. The key - I did not hog out the bulk of the material with a spiral bit and a bushing. I dont have a bushing set - go figure. Then come back with the pattern bit - Just as Marc suggested. I went straight to the pattern bit. I am learning by the minute. At least the burning is in the dog holes!


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Oh man! It is really looking beautiful Scott.


----------



## GrandpaLen

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Scott,

That Bench is gonna' be a joy to work with.

Those two weeks away from your bench will give you time to build the rest of it, over, and over, and over again in your mind and when you get back it will feel like you're building another one. 
Keep notes on thoughts and ideas for the bench while your away.

Work Safe and have Fun. - Len


----------



## BrandonW

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Looking good, Scott! I agree with your approach to the wood grain on the bench. It's turning out wonderfully! We're all enjoying the posts.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Were all here and waiting. It is looking so nice. You have done such a fine job. I hope your trip seems short and may your grain not twist.


----------



## jusfine

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Looking good!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Randy, thanks for that nudge a few months back to join the guild. I've no regrets.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


You're making this look easy Scott. Great progress.


----------



## ssnvet

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Great looking bench top…

I get a chuckle seeing the "bench that built the bench" underneath your very robust top!

The little ol' Work Mate doesn't get a lot of respect, but it definatley has a place in my shop as well.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Incredible! Is that your OCD peeking out or are you just glad to see me?
.
Edit: Andy has an interwebz bot that sends a message to his smartphone whenever a photo of a workmate appears on this site


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Just glad to see you.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


Tell me the truth…..
Did you use that magnifying glass on your Starrett hammer to examine any of these joints?
.
You know you did.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Dog Hole Strip*
> 
> These are all steps that I completed in the last week. I am getting ready to dive into 12 days straight at work then out of town the next. Progress slows.
> 
> I wanted to get the dovetail and top completed before now but it didn't happen. I am nervous to have these pieces milled up to final dimensions and them sitting around for days and days.
> 
> Note on design: It turns out that the cheapest soft maple I could buy has wonderful character with the Ambrosia worm holes. But this is not the place to show off grain and figure. If I did the overall look to the bench would be too busy. So for every step of the way I have chosen the more clear surface for display. Its disappointing really but I think the final overall composition of the bench will benefit.
> 
> During the last few steps I have relied heavily on Marc's videos. I can just imagine how time, material and heart ache they have saved me. Some may poo-poo the instruction but fortunately for others I did not learn my own vocation by "figuring it out." There is nothing wrong with instruction. It just turns out that my shop teacher is on the internet.
> 
> Laying out for the routing. The template and the routing. Not much more to say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> In order to maintain alignment I clamped, pre-drilled, and placed screws for later removal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> After glue up, I cut the dog block away using my trusty D-8 (that's the best $6 I've ever spent) cuz the kids are asleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped it in place to see how it will look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> The basic placement of the dog block, the screw, and the cavity. Oh, and if anyone wants to make an offer on the garage sale reject - Go ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> I got a lot of burning during the routing. I don't know enough to avoid this. I changed my speed but it persisted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> It getting there…............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for taking the time.


No. But I will confess to using an extra set of loupes when doing dovetails. Do have loupes? If you do, try them. They help mid 40 yo eyes a lot.


----------



## lysdexic

*Dovetails and the front laminate*

With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.




























-----------------------------------------------------------

Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.

It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!




























------------------------------------------------------------
This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.




























------------------------------------------------------------

Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.














































-------------------------------------------------------------------

I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.





































-------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


----------



## BTimmons

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


All the ways to do dovetails, and I hadn't seen that approach before. That's an interesting way to go about it, and the result speaks for itself.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Thanks Brian. Like I said it is not my technique and it is fairly straight forward. The key is that it is not hard to fine tune the pins to a depth of a 1/4". Once the tails fit, then route away with a pattern bit. You do, of course, have to square off the corners with a chisel.

This is another benefit of TWW guild. I don't know how to do this stuff!


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Scott, it really looks nice. You are doing some mighty fine work on this bench. You should be proud, because it looks awesome.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
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> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Thank ye Shane. Have you had a chance to use that DT saw yet? I hope you like it.


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## Joshuah

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
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> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


I think this same approach was done in Fine woodworking magazine and it looks like a great, and time saving way to attempt some dovetails! And no one can say no to your results!!!!


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## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
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> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Not yet, i am working on a bed…no DTs. But i did cut on a few boards, just to cut on something : ). If i made a DT as fine as the one on your bench, i would probably break my arm….patting myself on the back. Keep up the good work.


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## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
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> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Shane that's hilarious.

Scot they look fantastic. Is the pattern bit you are using just a straight bit with the bearing at the collet end? So if I'm understanding this method correctly, after you've got the first 1/4" fitting well, you plunge down hogging out the waste until you're at full depth and then run the pattern bit around the edges so the bearing runs on the first 1/4". Then you chisel out the corners. Is that correct? Sorry for being dense, but the results are great so I want to make sure I know the process.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
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> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
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> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Brit, for the most part that is correct. The bit is a top bearing or pattern bit - the bearing is next to the collet. Once the the first 1/4" fits then set the depth to final depth. The route into the stock. So, i didn't plunge depthwise. I did a little at a time in small clockwise motions. All the while, the bearing keeps you flush and square.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
> 
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> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Got it. Thanks.


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## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
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> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
> 
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> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Scotty, they look fantastic! I'm confused about the technique, though. I'm not as quick as Andy.


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## SPalm

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Class, true class. You got skills.

Thanks for the DT technique,
Steve


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## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
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> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
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> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Nicely done Scott. Beautiful work.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
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> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Thanks gentlemen, but this is more about the technique than my skill. I take a picture of my last hand cut dovetails to prove it. :^)

I attribute the results to:

The article in in Augusts Pop Wood. I tried to get a direct link but you have to buy it. - ""how to make condor tails"":http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleindex/how-to-make-condor-tails

TWW Guild. I was able to follow along the videos step buy step. One day I hope to make furnitiure by the seat of my pants but not now.

I am not trying to sell anything but I could not accomplish this one my one.


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## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
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> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


You have taught me a lesson or two today as well. Nicely done.


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## bhog

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
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> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Nice.It looks like it may be a lil less than 10 months.

Whats your buddies name-skele?Ever piss you off havin someone watchin your every move…...lol


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
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> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Brandon,

Nice job. Al was talking up how he studies the back ground of peoples pics. I put Otis in the to see if anybody would notice. He is a real skeleton that we use everyday for teaching purposes. Otis has seen his better days so i brought home for some repairs.

His the pole the keeps him standing is all wallered out and he is about to fall over. So i am going to take a leaf from the dining room table that used to be my work bench and make him a new stand. Several of his bones are broken and i glued them back together this past weekend.

Just FYI - you call was spot on. This last saturday I had worked in the shop all day. Then my wife brought me the Mararita and I was off. I was cleanin' and piddlin'. The beers were cold and the tunes kept getting louder. I had a grand time. In all seriousness, those are some of my favorite moments - hanging out in the shop and having a beer. But who do you share that with? You guys are the only ones who get it.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
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> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
> 
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


I also wondered if the someone would comment on the vintage C.E. Jennings paring chisel with the primitive handle.

Al, I can appreciate your chisel affinity. I really like old chisels. What? Chisels of your dreams? Nah.


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## RGtools

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
> 
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


I so need a bandsaw. Yes, I said it.

That is just plane cool the way that whole process works. Your shooting station is great and I am certain it made your life easier.

The skeleton is great…I completely missed it the first and second run through the pics…I have to pay more attention. Why the wig?


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
> 
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


RG,

If it makes you feel better. I know that you are a proponent of hand tool work and I respect for it. However, Tolpin in his new book rids himself of all power tools EXCEPT the bandsaw.

Thats not a wig it is a baseball cap turned sideways. It has our practice logo on it.


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## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


To my mind there are three power tools that compliment hand tool woodworking well. They are a cordless drill for when you need to drill with one hand whilst holding your work with the other. All manual drills require two hands to operate. Secondly, a router. I know you can get planes to do the same thing, but you would need a wall of them to compete with the router and they are expensive. Thirdly, a bandsaw. It just makes life easier in so many ways, resawing your own veneer for example.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
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> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Scott, I saw Otis. We have Fred. I thought it was a bandana. Yes, chisels are the breasts. I'll have to go to that site and look into these condor joints.


----------



## bhog

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
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> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
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> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Otis is a good name.I noticed the chisel too,just thought it kinda funny you had a skeleton in there with ya..

Shop time is a wonderful thing.I try to get in there everyday but doesn't always happen.Usually a stress free environment and have gone in some days and just plopped on my stool.

I also need a new bandsaw.I kinda got mad at my old one last week and body slammed it.Then picked it up and slammed it again.I am not the tool throwing type but I raged red on that P.O.S.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
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> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
> 
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> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
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> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
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> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
> 
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> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Brandon, you wouldn't happen to have a video of that would you? It sounds entertaining.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
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> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
> 
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> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


I haven't raged on a tool in a while, but I'm prone to do it. I bought a cheap Skil circular saw at WalMart out of desperation while working on a shed for my sister. I was trying to beat the fence square with a deadblow when the last straw hit out of nowhere and I started seeing red. I beat it unmercifully.


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## bhog

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
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> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
> 
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> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Nope no vid.I need to snap a phone pic though cuz its just laying under a bench in pieces looking all violated.

Al I work with a guy who is seconds away from going off the deep end at any tool all the time.I was a lil scared at first but after 8 yrs it is easilly the funniest stuff you will ever see.He once got mad at a speed square and chucked it over the house we were building and it came smashing down on the home owners truck as he was pulling in.I almost fell out of the rafters I was laughing so hard.Is usually just the 2 of us with the occasional help.I wouldnt trade my job for a million.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Dovetails and the front laminate*
> 
> With the end cap finished it is time to get the front laminate on but the is slight problem. When I was planing the dog hole strip even with the top I made the classic beginners mistake of falling off the edge. It is not a big deal now but I do not want to perpetuate the slope in the next lamination. So, using the dominos to my advantage I placed a couple business cards on the dog hole strip to elevate the hole. The third photo show the front laminate above the dog strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now the DT's (that doesn't sound right). This technique was written by Jameel in the August issue of Pop Wood.
> 
> It is nice to have a shooting board with matching bench hook!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This shows the set-up at the band saw with the jig and stop.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Marking the end cap to cut to length. I cut a rabbet to the back side of the tails. The tails were then transfered to the end cap. This is the clever aspect of this technique. I hogged out the for the pins but only to 1/4" deep. Then snuck up on the fit with a chisel. Once satisfied rout to depth with a pattern bit. this worked well.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I think this a great technique that leads to reliable results. I am happy.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks for following along. I hope to be done in 10 months.


Lol, Brandon. I think we all know a guy like that. I had a friend named "Taco" who was a car stereo installer. You can probably imagine where this is going already. I've seen him rip door panels off, smash a CD player on the ground, and punch a DVD screen. You're right that it's quite entertaining


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## lysdexic

*Tail Vise Installation*

I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.

Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.

To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.










Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.

The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!










Spacer installed



















Looks good!










The plate barely clears!










--------------------------------------------------------------

But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.

Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.










I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.









------------------------------------------------------------------

So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).


















-----------------------------------------------------------------

Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


It is just beautiful Scott. You are doing such an outstanding job.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


Wow, now it's so close to being complete I can taste it. Exciting capability you have at hand, just outstanding!


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## kenn

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


It is looking great, glad you got the sticking resolved, you want that baby to sliiiide smoooothly.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


Dude! It is looking sweeeeet….carry on.

By the way, if this is part 9, how many more parts to go?


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


Looking good Scot. I bet you stood there just winding that beauty in and out didn't you? I would have.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


*Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day.*
.
I spit my coffee out at that one. Good on you.
The bench looks absolutely fantastic. 
To mimic your physique, you should employ some delicate, feminine legs.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


Al, you may jest sir, but this is serious business. Actually, I am strongly considering tapering the leg or foot just below the lower stretchers. I would taper it ~ 30%. I wish I knew sketchup to help visualize it.

I had considered a slightly tapered leg where the taper began ~ 1/3 down from the bench top surface. Yet, i was too lazy and scared to deal with the resultant angles in the stretchers etc.


----------



## SPalm

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


That is looking sweet, Scott.
Those dang directions, you never know if they are right or if you need to modify.

Thanks for the update,
Steve


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


Scott, I tell people that I prefer robust straight legs on my furniture. Truth is, I'm scared of the taper. If you're sold on it, I don't think it would be that hard to figure the angles for the stretchers. That's the kind of thing I'd probably set up and scribe. I really like the splayed legs with the angled leg vise but I'm simply too chicken for it.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


I like the idea of angles below the lower stretcher! Add a bunch of visual interest at no impact to strength / integrity. You've got handplanes… scribe the line, plane to the line, done. OR scribe the line, saw close to the line w/ your D8 or suitable panel saw, plane to the line.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


^or, run it over your SawStop, lol!
.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


*Scot* - If you PM me the rough dimensions of the top, stretchers and legs, I'd be happy to knock up a few examples of tapering just below the stretchers. I could do it tonight if you want to see what it looks like. Were you thinking of tapering all four sides or just the inside faces between the stretchers on the front and side?

It won't take long to knock out a few examples.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


^Andy to the rescue. Scott, Andy can whip that stuff up in seconds. I'd take him up on it. I'd like to see it, at least.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


Awesome Scott. Have you seen how Garret Hack makes his dogs? He has the easiest process I've seen, It makes me want square dogs. Its a square piece with a kerf cut on the band saw where he just inserts a strip of ash.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


By the way that is in the FWW Workbench special that is on sale now.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


Scot - Email sent with tapered leg pics. See what you think.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


whatd i say


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


A wonderful top you have built. I don't think none of us have put anything together without issues. The top does look professionally done. It shows the time and care you have placed into something that will last a long time.
What a bench.


----------



## RGtools

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


I keep thinking that the full taper would not add too much complexity to the build, as long as you did a direct layout on the shoulders with the legs attached I think you would be fine.

Lookin awesome.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


Ryan - There are quite a few good reason not to do the full taper on the legs IMO,


All of the stretcher to leg joinery would be more of a challenge.
You would reducing the area of the leg in contact with the floor and would therefore be reducing the amount of friction that keeps the bench in place when planning etc.
There is not enough room for the two leg vise glides front and back.
You are reducing the clamping surface when you put a board on end in the leg vise.
You'd be reducing the weight of your bench.
You've paid for chunky legs just to make them look small again.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


Ryan,

Thanks for the kind words. The taper is kinda cool and different. Although the points Andy brings up are not insurmountable that are quite valid. If I do any tapering it would be below the stretchers.


----------



## RGtools

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


Without sounding to much like I am backtracking from a spanking….I never said it was the best idea to do any taper. I just liked the full much better than the partial.

Andy, I agree with most of your points….but just or fun:

1. Correct, but if the legs were joined to the top and the referenced directly to the scretcher in the finished position you could get it right…with drawbores I think you would end up fine. The other option here would be to cut a square shoulder into the leg to ignore the taper (the way you would if you were dealing with a timber frame house) but that might be just as complex as geting the shoulder angle right. The mortise is what would mess most people up, I think. 
2. You would be increasing the psi transmitted to the floor. It's kind of like the corrogated sole vs flat sole argument., it balances out in the end. 
3. I can't remotly argue with that. 
4. This is the best argument out of all….I would add that clamping to the second, non-vise-bearing leg, would be made more difficult….a flaw that is not excusable in my book. 
5. It's already a behemoth. I think a bench needs to be moveable when you want it to move….the ideal weight really depends on your strength and how often you reorient your shop. 
6. Second best reason to keep them straight.

Final verdict….up to Scott. Final verdict from me, stick to tradition or Andy will call you on it .


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


We're not suggesting that the front of the leg vise leg would also be tapered are we? That'd be a deal killer for me.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


^yes and no. The vise leg would taper but only on the inside surfaces. This may, in fact, affect the shape of you chop. However, this is just a discussion on the design. Thanks to Andy we are able to visualize and bat the idea around.

Who knows someone may decide they really dig it.

Currently I plan on tapering the foot like the first pics.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Tail Vise Installation*
> 
> I have hesitated to post this blog because the variables involved are hard to describe and I didn't take very good pics. Regardless, here goes.
> 
> Moral of the story - If all else fails, follow the instructions.
> 
> To install the rails for the plate &nut assembly you route out a 1/4" rabbet so that they are 3 3/4" from the upper surface. My top thickness is 4 1/16" - so close enough. The routing went fine but the plate would not clear at the far end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well crap! I thought that I had routed to deep. I scratched my head and figured that I needed spacers to raise the raise (actually lower because the bench is upside down) the rails so the plate will clear.
> 
> The spacers. I had to take these in and out several times because the screw action was binding. But they looked good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spacer installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plate barely clears!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> But the screw kept binding when the assembly approached the end cap. I wish I had a video. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't right.
> 
> Every time I disassembled everything and sanded the spacers thinner and thinner the binding improved. EPIPHANY! Maybe the spacers are not needed. I took everything out and checked the routing depth from the surface. That is the combo ruler sticking up. It was exactly 3 3/4". It was the extra 1/16" in thickness of the top that made the difference because the top was the reference for laying out everything else in the tail vise. Duh! Now I know how Al feels every day. It was terrifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reinstalled the vise and had smooooth action but I was back to the plate clearance problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, I removed about 1/8" from this area using a chisel and router plane (which did not perform well in this application).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Done with the top but still need to make my dogs. Thanks for checking out the progress.


If the front of the leg is in the same plane as the stretcher, you chop might be a little skinnier at the lower end. I can't see how it would matter. One thing about the taper is that you'd lose the ability to add certain casters down the road (if you were inclined to engage in that sacrilege). Some of the casters that swing entirely out of the way might be a consideration for some, even if it's just on one end.


----------



## lysdexic

*The Legs - part I*

I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.

Here they are getting marked up.


















I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.



















Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.



















I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!





































Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


Good update. Still looks great. What is the ETA on the reveal now?


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


Per Al's allowance I think that I have nine months left. Wait let me check….......I took this picture March 10th


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


How much of that Jack you got left?

(Excellent progree, you're almost there!!!)


----------



## thedude50

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


dUDE YOU HAVE TO STOP DOUBTING YOUR SELF your solid you know this stuff your a smart guy and your work is fine. I may have gone with the ras to do the tennons I dont know if you have one but they are behind you now. I am doing 2 of these at a time so i am starting with the tops there are 4 tops I have 2 complete and am very pleased with mine . I know your top will work out just bring lots of glue and clamps. the legs on my bench are simple mortice and tennons i will make the mortices in the halvs then the glue ups it is easier that way aqnd it isw how the legs were designed. your legs were tougher also my bench can be taken down and moved easily or moved all togeather . we are talking about a move to scotland for retirement and I want to take the bench with me i WILL LIKLEY TAKE ALL MY HAND TOOLS AND WILL SELL OFF MY POWER TOOLS AND REPLACE THEM WITH NEW EUROPEAN MODELS. dam i hate this laptop . that damn caps lock key is killing me. I am very Proud of you Scott you can do this dont let the momentium die push through if I can do it as bad as my back is you can do it too


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


Lance - it is not so much doubting myself as it is planning for the inevitable mistakes.

Smitty - if you consider the number of Wood Whisperer's videos I am about 70% finished. The leg vice, which is coming up takes two videos.

Thanks for checking in.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


once again nice work Scott. I usually keep my pieces long in case I screw up and have to start over. Its typically when I don't either because I get cocky or material is short that I actually do screw up.


----------



## SPalm

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
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> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


Hey Scott, it looks very very nice from here.
Give yourself a pat on the back from me.

Steve


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## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
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> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


Ah my dream bench is progressing nicely I see. Nice work Scott and remember - If you don't think you can't, you can.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
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> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


If you don't think you can't, you can.
-Andy

Try not. Do. Or do not!! There is no try….
-Yoda

(Is Andy in some way related to Master Yoda? Hmmm….)


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## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
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> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


Smitty - He hasn't got much use for a comb either. LOL.

You know it's funny, but one of the most important lessons I've learnt about using hand tools is that you have to approach them with a certain amount of self-belief. They were designed and built to do hard work and you have to use them confidently to get the best out of them. For example, if you pick up a saw to cut a tenon cheek, you should approach the cut with the intention of fitting that tenon straight off the saw. Of course it doesn't always work out that way, but it sure feels nice when it does.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
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> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


Don't get me wrong fellas. I am not suffering from an inferiority complex. The two main professions in my life demand caution and always leaving yourself an "out." My instructor pilot in the Army was the first to tell me "There old pilots and there are bold pilots. But there are no old, bold pilots." I took that to heart. In my current profession, my peers do not lack in confidence and humility is the actual challenge.

"When life looks like easy street, there is danger at your door." Jerry Garcia.

That said, I will grant you the fact that i do need to be more willing to risk mistakes. At least in woodworking - geez.

Most of all, I appreciate y'alls encouragement.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
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> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


Wait a second Andy! Was that comb comment aimed at Yoda or me? Either way, it is deserved :^)


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
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> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


Andy, you're onto something for sure. The way I've thought of it is, the tool knows what it wants to do if we just let it. Sometimes that's learning to push the rabbet or combo or T&G plane a little harder than is comfortable, other times is getting out of the way of the backsaw that really does want to cut a straight line (despite my best efforts at 'guiding' it…) And yes, I'm a firm believer in 'straight from the saw' work, most often with dovetails.

When we come together with what the tools are designed and fully capable of doing, great things happen.

Scott, get 'er done!  As they say about Missouri roadwork, 'It'll be nice when it's done!'


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## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
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> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


In part 13 of my saw talk blog Smitty had asked why I choose a comb as my first project because I kept making rip cuts right next to each other. I replied aksing "What's a comb?" meaning I haven't needed one for more years than I care to remember. So I was just saying that yoda doesn't have a need for one either.

You know what they say though Scott. Hair never grows where the work's done and that's why women don't grow beards. LOL.


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
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> 
> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


Way to go Scott, good use of powertools and hand tools. Nice seeing the router plane in action. Your in the home stretch now!


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## DaddyZ

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
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> 
> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


Coming Along Nicely !!!


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## bhog

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


Good stuff man. The hybrid galootness is strong in you my friend…. =


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## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part I*
> 
> I have lost my momentum but progress remains. The Legs - it took me a month to get them done.
> 
> Here they are getting marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to embody as much galootness as possible. Yet I am still unsure of my skill and thus elected to use the table saw to cut the shoulders. These need to be square. The cheeks of the stub tenons not so much.
> I used my practice leg first. I borrowed the fancy kreg miter guage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hand sawing the cheeks proved more problematic than expected. I do not have a Tenon saw. I have my BA 12" xcut and a dull 14" tyzack back saw(which would have work great if it was sharp). The best combination was to get the kerf started with the BA x-cut saw and finish up with the Disston rip. It was a lot of work but I am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ensured square, flush, flat with the router plane. Man, cherry burns easy!
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have never attempted a project like this before I was very apprehensive about my ability to execute the tenons. Thus, I started with legs at a length that would allow me to completely botch the tenons, but them off and start again. Once, satisfied with the tenons I cut the excess of the bottom.


Wow what wonderful legs you have built. Your 4 legs closer. Nice job. Keep us posted.


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## lysdexic

*The Legs - part II*

In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.










Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?










I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.



















In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?



















The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.










Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.



















Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.










The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.



















Thanks for checking out the progress.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


Aha, looking good indeed. Very nice work, Scott!


----------



## mafe

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


Looking like first class.
Those legs are beautiful.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## GrandpaLen

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


Scott,

Wipe the nervous sweat from your brow (just chidding), your lookin' good. ;-)

Patiently waiting the next update. - Len


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


looking good Scott.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


This bench s going to be beautiful Scott. If you saw some of my mortises, you'd laugh your head off. The joints have never come loose though.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


Ahhh, more progress. The anticipation builds.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


Thanks for the kind words.

I still have the legs at a length that will result in a finished height of 35". Yet, the legs are already laid out at 1/2" increments if I decide to cut the legs lower the bench to 34 1/2" or 34".

I was really suprised that the Grammercy holdfasts didn't work.

This build is a wonderful learning experience. I am performing operations and using tools that I have never used before. Take for instance the Yankee brace. I have played around with and it doesn't need TLC. But actually take that tool and bore real holes in a real project is awesome. I love that thing.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


Good progress Scott and you bring up something I wrestled with last night. What is the best way to chop out a mortise this big?

I did two last night for my bench 5.5"Lx1.25"Wx2"D. It aint easy. I first tried boring it with my brace, in oak thats a lot of work, tried forstner bit in handheld drill but that burned the wood and wasn't much easier. I finally hoisted it up on my drill press. It worked but I almost broke my little cheap drill press.

I didnt think about routing since I wasn't sure if it would reach deep enough. I have a template router bit, I may double stick tape some stops and try that.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


"Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole."

I'm not clear on what that hole is for? Thats a big dog hole, I'm just trying to figure out if I need one of those. Thanks!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


Mauricio, that hole is specific to this plan.



















It is hard to see in the BenchCrafted pic but a dog hole sits right over the right front leg. On the left side, you skip a dog hole where the left leg is. I assume that the dog holes closer to the wagon vise are more valuable. Makes sense. So, in order to accomodate the dog hole you have to drill a verticle hole into the leg tenon and then the horizontal 1 1/4" hole for finger access.

Does that make sense?


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


Got you! Makes sense.

I figure if I have a dog whole right before the leg, then skip over it and continue at one whole every 3" to 4" inches I can cover pretty much any length of clamping on the wagon vise. The whole in the tenon would make it nice and consistent though.

Also, how far down from the top will the hole for your leg vise screw be?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


... to be able to push the dogs out if/when they get knocked flush to the benchtop. And when the holes get filled with muck. Got it (I was missing that part, too)


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


Mauricio,
I don't know off the top of my head but i can look it up tonight when I get home.


----------



## BTimmons

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


It's gonna be a beast when you're done.


----------



## sb194

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


Scott,

It's looking great. I can't wait to see the finished bench.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


Spectacular work Scott.

Keep us posted in regards to the Grammercy holdfast please.

Thanks for sharing, brilliantly documented as always.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


Coming right on along. The legs are shaping up. Wonderful work.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Legs - part II*
> 
> In the last blog the tenons were complete and I trimmed the extra "margin of safety" length. It takes two passes with the miter saw. So I shaved off the inevitable irregularities.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is routing the mortises. Marc (TWW) demonstrates doing this free hand and makes it look easy I might add. Routing is always a tense affair for me but I give it a go. Nice results huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure the dimensions and placement are correct so I went through the trouble of fixing this mistake. Truth is I really wanted to use a dowel plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, when I went back for the second pass the next day and the little repair piece ripped out. Oh well. Things went much better after I set up some stops. Have I mentioned that cherry burns easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The legs sat like this for a week. Then another week. Then another week. Finally, I drilled a large 1 1/4" inch hole in the right front leg for access to a dog hole. Wierd but that is the plan. In the same leg I bored three holes for the holdfast. First, I counter-bored on the back at 1" for a depth of 1 1/2". This will create an effective holdfast hole 3" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the front 3/4" holes were drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested my holdfasts for the very first time, both of the blacksmithed ones held like champs. however, the grammercy one did not hold at all. Maybe I need to de-wax them and scuff 'em up with sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3/8" holes for the draw bore pins are drilled as well. The legs are done with the exception of the left front leg, that one will get lots of love during the leg vice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking out the progress.


Mauricio,

My plan calls for the center of the leg vise screw hole to be 9 1/8" down from the top.


----------



## lysdexic

*The Rails*

With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.



















I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.










The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.

Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.



















Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.





































The completed tenon…..










Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.



















One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.



















Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.




























After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.










THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!




























Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


----------



## GrandpaLen

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Fit like a pro, nicely done.

Bench is lookin' great. - Len


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Nice save on the tenon Scott. I'm starting to drool now.


----------



## mafe

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Thanks for sowing all the fine details, even the repair, this is as important as the rest.
It is going to be a dream bench.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


I discovered something interesting about the Sawstop doing the tenons.

When you turn the Sawstop ON there are 2 led lights at the switch that give status. Solid green and you are good to go. If the red one flashes it corresponds to an error code. Well, if the saw is ON but not running and you touch the blade with your finger or anything conductive, the red light will flash and the flip paddle switch will not start the blade turning.

You can use this to your advantage. I set my combo square to the desired height and then place that on the table hovering over the blade. Then raise the blade until the red light flashes. Your are exactly at the specified height. Its a nice little convenience.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Some fine work with rasp and saw, Scott! I do have a question, re: 'groove for the self leger.' what is a self leger? This groove looks like it's where a shelf might be. i've not heard fhe term before…

Almost there, and looking oh-so-fine!


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


ok, having never really paid attention to a sawstop up close what does "ON but not running" mean. My saw is either on or off.

Great detail in the blog. The bench is going to be superb. I can't wait for the finished picture. Planes sitting on top of course.


----------



## sb194

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Awesome. That is all I can say. Can't wait to see the finished bench.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Looking good Scott, Stretchers are next on my to do list.

I hate the part of the project where you have to stop and fix mistakes, part of the process I guess.

Do you have to insert the shelves during the glue up? I guess we'll see shortly.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


The grooves/dado in the lower rails are just for better fixation and stability of the ledger to hold the shelving. The ledger will be glued into the dado. I guess this is in contrast to screwing a ledge straight on the face. The ledger actual can be glued in anytime.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Don,

As you know the Sawstop basically passes a current thru the blade. If anything changes the capacitance (eg a finger or metal or wet treated lumber) it is detected and an aluminum block is fired into the blade. yada yada.

So, it has some fancy circuitry. There are two switches. One turns it ON and it goes thru a system check which takes about 6 seconds if I had to guess. When it is good to go you get a steady green light. At that point, it operates as any other table saw.

Then there is a paddle switch which is the conventional ON/OFF switch and starts the blade.

While the blade is not turning you can touch the blade but the red light will flash and the paddle switch is disabled. Makes sense. This is where you raise the blade to touch the combo square. When the red light flashes the blade just touched and you are at the desired height. Pretty cool I thought.










It is all quite simple. It is harder to describe than to use.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


That makes sense. I figured it had something to do with the safety switch. I learned something today.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Smitty, did my corrected spelling in the subsequent post help?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Yep, I understand, and it makes sense.

I'll have to look at how I attached the shelf support boards / ledgers on my bench.

Wait, what am I saying?? The bloody thing is four inches to the floor and weighs 300+ pounds. Oh, well.


----------



## bhog

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Nice work Scott ,everything looks top notch.After following along your build its kind of making me want to build a REAL bench.Almost bought a bunch of 12/4 red birch the other day,but chickened out.It looks like it will be a beautiful piece when it is finished.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Just keeps getting better and better. Pretty darn fancy setup w/the saw stop. Car keys and the whole 9. Politics aside, that is one friggin'sweet saw and even better bench. Keep up the good work.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Nice save, and I do like that rasp. You are well on your way. Good technique and well done. Keep us posted.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Dave, the Shinto rasp got impressive reviews here on LJ'S. Otherwise, I wouldn't have considered it. It is like having a bunch of hack saw blades riveted together.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


I have been wanting one. I think you just finished the sale for me.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Dave, I bought a Shinto rasp a while ago. I like it.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Beautifully tight joinery Scott. You really do outstanding work man. Thanks for including the fixes; helpful to see how that is done.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The completed tenon…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


Thanks all. It is the mistakes that make it interesting. The happen - all the time.


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## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Rails*
> 
> With the legs done it is time to move on to the rails. I have milled these guys during the milling process. The tenons are different for each type of rail (e.g. botttom long, bottom short, and top short. Thus, I took extra care in getting them marked up.
> 
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> 
> I didn't take pics but I cut the tenons using the table saw and a dado stack. Well the first one I cut ended up too loose. Just a little but it wasn't right. So i go into repair mode.
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> 
> The other 11 tenons went well except maybe the fact the probably over corrected and left too much bulk on all tenons. I did alot of sneaking up on each fit. Thank goodness I don't do this for a living because I would surely starve.
> 
> Since the moritises are done with a router I need to round over the tenons. First I undercut with my flush cut saw.
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> Then I would round over the base with a chisel. Next, Bevel the corners at a 45 with the course side if the Shinto rasp. Then further round with the fine side if the Shinto rasp. THis is the first time that I've had the opportunity to use this rasp and i was quite please with its performance. The certainly removes material fast and effeciently. However, it is not a finishing rasp as the resultant surface is fairly rough even on the "fine" side.
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> The completed tenon…..
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> Sneaking up on the fit. A little aggressive with the rounding over but that doesn't effect the fit.
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> One by one they are coming together. On the top rail, I left some extra material so I can plane down flush witht the leg shoulders.
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> 
> Now back to the repair. I just need a few thousandths to make it snug. I don't have a tenon saw so stated with a DT saw. You can see the sliver of scabbed material. THen fished it off with a X-cut saw.
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> After getting that final tenon to fit, the groove for the self leger was dado'd into the bottom rails.
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> THe base is ready for draw boring and assembly!!
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> Next up is the leg vise then I'll be getting close to putting the baby together. Thanks for stopping by.


So what you're basically saying Eva is that if Scott had changed his shoes, he wouldn't have messed up his tenon?


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## lysdexic

*The Parallel Guide*

Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.

Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.



















I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.



















Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.



















I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.

Then flattened with the jointer



















After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.

The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.



















*Cheers!*


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


Concerning the end of the parallel guide. The plan comes with a template for a double ogee. like this…..










Its nice but this bench doesn't speak double ogee to me. As a design element, it seems out of place. I see something angular and simple but haven't committed yet.


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## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


Man you are burning the midnight oil. I tore up two perfectly fresh irons on that stuff. It is *HARD!*. The Parallel Guide will last forever. And the template you made will to.
Nice update.
Cheers.


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## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


The alcohol is becoming your signature product placement. The bench is going to be awesome. Well done.


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## tsangell

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> *Cheers!*


Jatoba is one of the harder woods I've worked. A sharp plane will do it, but it has a severe dulling effect.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


Yea Shane, I am going to tone that down. That is not what i am about. I don't drink very often but it seems that when I do, my woodworking "stuff" seems so cool. I am inspired to take a picture. Plus, a lot of my beer pics are the same ones that have been posted before.


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## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


I am not saying you are a lush…more that maybe an advertising/promo deal could be in the works. Maybe some commision checks or at least free product.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


Oh, that would be awesome. With the hand cases that I do I could definitely give testimony for SawStop but a microbrew sponsor…..how cool is that?


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## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


please drink responsibly. (which means only if you have a sawstop). 

Is that glass a 1/4 full, or 3/4 empty?

Nice job on the guide. I never worked with jatoba. It looks like a nice tote material.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


If anyone is not familiar with the Janka Hardness scale here is a nice introduction and graph.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


Don, it would make a great tote material. It looks a lot like american cherry except a more open, varied grain pattern and the color is a tad more golden.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


I love the new tagline, Lysdexic!

Appreciate the resaw blade advice and the discussion of jatoba. That sure looks alot like the stuff I used for a vice chop months ago. Cherry looking, very wild 'grain' and harder than all get out…nice guide, I agree the dbl ogee wouldn't fit. Almost there!


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


Nice to see all the progress lately Scott, I bet your loving being able to use that wagon vise already.


----------



## BrandonW

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


Yeah, i have a ton of those Jatoba cut off pieces. The work great for projects like this. Your bench is really coming along.


----------



## RGtools

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


That is some brutal stock prep. But I bet the fine shavings came easy.

Cheers.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


Actually Ryan, nothing about this board was easy. If you look at the first pics, I would think that it would be easy to use a jointer and, using the already flat surface, plane out the saw marks. I tried that and it was taking forever. That is when I switched to the scrub. that removed the material but introduced twist. I knid of chased my tail from there.

I need much more practice flattening with hand planes.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


That's one nice looking guide. I'm with you on the ogee; a little on the fru fru side for me.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


"a little on the fru fru side for me"

I didn't know that was possible.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Parallel Guide*
> 
> Marc recommends a hard species of wood for the parallel guide. A hard maple board would have been nice but i don't have any. I do have several pieces of jatoba that I bought from a dude with a trailer of cut offs at a local WW show. I thought about cherry but it is about the same hardness as soft maple on the Janka scale. Plus, the jatoba matches american cherry quite nicely.
> 
> Here is a piece that is damn near the final dimension. But this stuff is HARD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took it down with the scrub. With this wood I took baby bites.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I tried to take down the high spots with the Jack. I don't have pic but my winding sticks demonstrated twist. I finally got it flat. I struggled here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I further flattened with the jointer but re-introduced some twist. Once I got thought that out I gave up on removing a 1/4" for final thickness. So, off to the bandsaw. FYI, the woodslicer blades for Highland Woodworking are quite impressive.
> 
> Then flattened with the jointer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting to final dimension, I cut the tenon at the table saw making sure to leave it fat. That will trimmed with a block at the time of fitting it in the tenon.
> 
> The resaw cut-off made a nice template for the holes. Then it was time to make a toast to my LJ buddies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cheers!*


Nice guide Scott, can't wait to see it on the bench.

Thanks for expanding my vocabulary Al - Fru, Fru indeed! Not to be confused with Furfur, the Great Earl of Hell or Far, Far, an Indian snack made from potato starch and tinted sago.

We're never too old to learn. )


----------



## lysdexic

*The Chop - updated*

Lets get back to these guys…










They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.










First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.




























Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.



















Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.



















As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


I was just getting ready to bug you for an update too. I still have high hopes gor this bad boy. Carry on.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Disgusted comes easy sometimes… You'll get there, Scott! Love the lines and the inspiration piece you used as well. Excellent update!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Shane - you think YOU have high hopes.

Thanks Smitty - that is a lot more helpful than the responses that I leave for you. Goes to show you who has more couth and class.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Yours made me laugh, mine doesn't have that affect, I'm sure…


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## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
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> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Looks good. Don't worry about those small setbacks. Some of the best details come out of mistakes.

If you want to show some of the fitting of the chain it's fine with me.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
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> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Also, the BC plan calls for 2.5 " chop thickness. I kept mine at 2.75" because, well, size matters. In the end though it will diminish the effective travel of the vise screw.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


The mistake looking back on it (it was Sunday) is not a big deal. THe first cut on the lower part was narrow. Just an 1/8" or less. I noticed it before I cut the second side. Therefore I cut it 1/8" wider from the center line. This restored my width so that it matched the width of the leg AS PLANNED. But now the center line is off. That is where I had to do some cipherin' and deductin'


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Jim, if I make a mistake fitting the chain I will certainly show it. I can't post blogs as intriguing as Smitty but at least I can show what I screw up. Otherwise these entries turn into an instruction manuals.

My plan is to get leg vise hardware installed and then do a dedicated post for the chain drive.


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## GrandpaLen

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


In work, as in life, it's not how severe we err, it's how well we can recover.

So, off you go into the past guided only by your future. ( ...that's counter productive my friend, move forward) 

Scott, 
It's a leg vise, and yes, it will be quite handsome.
If you are worried about the symmetry, trim an 1/8" from the other edge, it's nearly 3" thick, you won't compromise it's strength or it's integrity.

As far as your concern over the 2.75" face causing the screw travel to be 1/4" less, countersink the screw mount into the face a 1/4" and you're back on track and moving forward.

We are with you on this, we've got your back. - Grandpa Len


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## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Scott - That's not a mistake, just artistic license. Lovely piece of Cherry by the way.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Len,

You are exactly right. I'm also losing another 2" bcause my leg is 5" deep as oppose to the 3" planned. I am going to just as you say and turn the nut around and countersink it deep into the leg instead of flush mounting.


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## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


You think yours is off center, look at this lovely bench.
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m628/boatman53/6b8fc0f3.jpg


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## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Scott, don't sweat the mistakes. If you look at my cherry hoosier what you don't see is the huge mistake. (sorry, I forgot to mention it as well ) The mistake was I made the bottom about 3/4" to big. I was so disgusted It sat in my shop for so long (I'd estimate about 10 years) that I lost the original metal pieces that held the top to the bottom. One day out of determination to overcome my stupidity I decided to finish it. So loosing the original pieces worked in my favor, I could now compensate for the wrong size.


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## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


I kind of like that Jim, but don't the dog holes go the wrong way?


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## SPalm

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Hey Scott, I still think that is looking wonderful.

It is strange how we beat ourselves up all the time. You would not believe how flat my forehead is from slapping it.

Carry on Sir,
Steve


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
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> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
> 
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> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


I appreciate your kind words gentlemen but do not feel that you have to console me. I don't bring up mistakes fishing for encouragement. If I didn't mention it no one would have been the wiser. A blog entry can easily settle into a monotonous sequence of steps. Its the mistakes that we make that provide the true lesson.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Question: If you look at the side profile of the lever cap you see that the bevel is compound. It leans toward the center line as well as toward the point. I elected not to pursue this because I couldn't figure out a way to execute that compound bevel cut in a concavity.

Any suggestions?

A curved bottom spokeshave? Hog out the bulk with a bandsaw or coping saw? I wish I had a hand held spindle sander. Draw knife?


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## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


i'd probably use a rasp. or a spoke shave then a rasp.


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## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
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> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


I'm worried I'm misunderstanding you when you say "concavity". I'm imagining it to be a convexity. If we're talking about the same thing, what about a Shinto? Microplane makes a barrel-shaped blade (hand-held spindle shaper). If you're looking for absolute symmetry and perfection, real slow going with a spokeshave might be an option. I'd destroy it with a drawknife; I just don't have the skills.
.
I think it looks absolutely fabulous. I dare you to carve 'Stanley Handyman' into it.


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## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


shouldn't that be Scott Handyman?


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


One day I will come up with a logo or signature to put on the chop.


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## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


That reminds me I have yet to sign my bench.


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## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Scott you are tooling right along.


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## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


I have some pretty good logo ideas for you. PM me.
.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


WTF Al? Really?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


A rasp is what I'd use, too. Drawknife would be awesome, but I'd split the crap out of things just as sure as the logo above won't ever be on Scott's bench. Wonder if there's a way to use a #113 for that kind of cut, once it's roughed out.


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## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Yeah, the drawknife is a great tool for me in theory. So far, I've only been successful making sticks for my dog; and even those weren't too great. Mine's a Swan, so I know it's not the tool. I made a curved canoe part for a friend once and used the spokeshave with some success.
.
I bet there is a way to use the 113 but you'd have to own one (I don't) and know how to use it (I don't). I bet a Shinto rasp would get you most of the way.


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## SCOTSMAN

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
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> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


A wonderful piece.Alistair


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
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> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Scott, you got a chain guide?! Sweet! Cant wait to see that. I also like the Stanley lever cap inspiration, it's a really nice touch.

I think your right, thicker is the way to go with the chop. Its going to look sweet.

Al, LOL on the logo, that was a good one.


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
> 
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> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Scott, do you have any details on the groove on the underside of the top for the deadman to ride? I need to start thinking about how to do that on my bench.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
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> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Mauricio,
Yes, I plan on doing a full write-up on the chain drive when I get a chance to finish the leg vise. I hope that I do it justice.

The BC plan calls for a groove on the bottom of the bench top 3/4" wide x 1 1/2". That is to facilitate lifting the deadman out. Still that is some pretty deep routing.

Jim uses an alternative strategy where he leaves a gap (the width of the deadman) in the bottom sliding rail all the way to the left, adjacent to the leg vise. You remove the deadman through this gap. This means that you do not have to route such a deep groove to allow for lifting the deadman. Less structural compromise to the top? Maybe. Are you going to use the deadman right next to the leg vise? Probably not.

Hope this helps. I think Jim have pictures on his website. I just cannot recite how to get there.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
> 
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


FWIW, here's a Pic of the deadman track on the underside of my benchtop. It's the last cut I've made with a 'lectric router, aside from softening bench holes…


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## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
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> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Here's what I did.
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m628/boatman53/workbench/7f951058.jpg

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m628/boatman53/workbench/dfc1d5fd.jpg

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m628/boatman53/workbench/510d45f5.jpg

It allowed a smaller tenon on the deadman which prevents it from lifting. And it means a much more shallow grove for it to ride in. My top is only 2 1/2" thick so I didn't want to cut too deep.


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## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
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> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Realistically, how often are you going to remove the deadman? Not very often I'll wager. Just thinking out the box, you could also make the tenon at the top of the deadman as a separate piece of wood screwed into the back of the deadman. If you cut some slots in the tenon for the screws, you could just loosen the screws, drop the tenon and remove the deadman that way. Just another option.


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## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
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> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


I made the deadman easily removable because I don't use it that much. Plus next winter I plan on building a cabinet of drawers to fit on the shelf. The deadman would get in the way of the drawer opening. I put a peg on the side of the upper side rail so I can hang it out of the way when not needed.


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


I havent given it enough thought to know exactly what I'm going to do but what Jim has done makes a lot of sense. I dont want to rout a really deep groove either.

Jim, wouldnt you want the space on the other side of the bench? I'm just thinking that I would want the deadman next to my leg vise if I was dovetailing the side of a case clamped in the leg vise with the other side clamped on the deadman using one of those things Smitty has on his. Of course you have two leg vises so you have more choices.

Andy, I think the reason not to screw it on is that it may not be strong enough if you use holdfasts on it. Wouldnt a hold down of some kind pull the tenon off of the deadman?

Smitty is yours glued on? How strong does it have to be if not?


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Hmmm, since I'lll be making my own wooden screws I could also have the option of making a sliding leg vise to put in there as an option…...


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## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
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> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Mauricio
I would use the deadman only for supporting longer pieces that couldn't be clamped in both vises. I think the deadman is about 5" wide so if it was full on the track the closest hole would be about 7" from the vise. To me that is pretty close. The other reason I wasn't worried about it is the top is only about 12" to the tool well, it is easy to clamp horizontally without a really big clamp.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
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> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Last time I think we were right about here.










You can see the difference of thickness about the centerline. It is really not bad and I decided to just leave it.



















Next I went off to the spindle sander and smoothed out the cancavity. I had marked out some different shapes but, in the end, I kept it simple. After that I through it back up on the band saw to hog off the bulk of the gentle curve.





































Continuing to fair the curve with a jack.



















Since I dont own a compass plane I turned to my ROS and sequential hand sanding to 320 grit. Finally, I rubbed her down with some mineral spirits to admire the grain.



















I still had a couple things to do. One was to mark and tap hole for the fly wheel flange. THis is my first time tapping hole in wood so I did a few practice runs in scrap. However, before I could mark for the flange I needed to semi-secure the parallel guide.

Made some dowels. these I sanded ever so slightly so that I can pull them out. I have a few future operations to do on the parallel and I am not ready to install it.




























Marking for the flange…......










Practicing drilling and tapping…........



















Then moving over to the chop. I think this is going to work out well!










Finally, shaved and rasped a 3/8" chamfer.





































Thanks for looking and all the kind words.


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## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Scott, you are doing an great job on that chop and I'm sure the bench. You should have no trouble with those bits I sent you.


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## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Oh my, I love curves. And you are doing a wonderful job. Looking very curvie!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


That's what I'm talkin' about! Nice job.


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## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


beautiful grain for sure. Great job.


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## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
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> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
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> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


You've got skills Scott. This is going to be a beauty.


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## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
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> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
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> 
> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


So nice!


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Love the curves, its going to look sweet. Looks just like a plane lever cap.

In regards to the groove for the deadman, I just had a thought, why would you have to rout a 1.5" grove over the whole length to be able to pull the thing out. you really only need it to be that deep in one small section. That way you slide it to that part to pull it out, so you get the best of both worlds, a deadman that slides the full distance between legs, can be removed, and you dont have to rout a groove that deep, except in one small section.

What do you guys think about that?


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


I agree with you Mauricio. I almost did just that in my bench, but I wanted more "meat" of the deadman right up to bench top. All these ideas thrown around here are just different ways of doing something. One is not nessarilly better than the other. It has more to do with what work you do and how you do it. The choices you make should fit you and your bench. I have seen some beautiful benches but only a handful would benefit the way I work and the kind of work I do.
Jim


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Jim, thats another good point if your going to slip your deadman out in that way you need a gab in the shoulder of the tenon. I never thought of that detail.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Another thought on the deadman: Eventually I plan to build a cabinet for the lower shelf, a la Smitty's. Therefore, I plan on making the deadman as thin as possible. You see some deadmen (deadmans?) really wide and ornate. I don't get it. The force/stress is vertical and I see no reason structurally for it to be wide.

The thinner it is, the easier it will be to access the cabinet.


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Scott that is what I was thinking also. My deadman is 5" wide. The one advantage of a wider deadman is a smoother sliding action. I don't use mine that much but I have found that if it tips a bit off vertical when sliding it, it will bind. I am expecting when I wax it after the finish is on it should be better. It's not bad now but it does bind if I'm not thinking about it.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Chop - updated*
> 
> Lets get back to these guys…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They were glued up months ago but before shaping and joinery lets square up the sides. I've now dedicated my Veritas BU jointer for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the mortise for the parallel guide was routed at the bottom. My tenon cheek was off and required some tweaking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the shaping. Let me say that I have pondered this for quite a awhile. I really like the shape given in the plan. However, I thought something different would be cool, maybe something more angular, more George Nakashima. Yet, I like how the BC design echos the lever cap on a Stanley plane. I took it a step further and tried to stay true to the curved face of the lever cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I considered mimicking the compound curved bevel on the lever cap but I chickened out and kept it perpendicular and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was marveling at how well the band saw blade from highland woodworking works, I realized that I messed up the measurements. Disgusted and perplexed I left it for a few days.


Smitty, I was just looking back at the pictures you took of your deadman groove. How long is the tenon and how deep is the groove? 








Looks like maybe a 1.5" tenon and a 2" deep groove.


----------



## lysdexic

*Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*

Howdy,

The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.














































It ain't perfect but will do just fine.

------------------------------------------------------

The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........










TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.

However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.





































Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel










-------------------------------------------------------

The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.



















Its a hair too deep but that's OK.

-------------------------------------------------------

Finally, the roller brackets.

Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.



















Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.




























Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.



















---------------------------------------------------------

The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.



















You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.

I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Another step closer. Keep up the good work. What hurdles are left? Seems like you got it pretty well whooped at this point. Look forward to more, as always


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


My gosh, the level of total precision is amazing… Matched only by the execution…

Wow, that's amazing work, Scott. Congrats, you're almost there!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Shane,

Just off the top of my head…..

Make dowels for draw bore
draw bore pin
mill and construct deadman
legder strips
deadman glide strip
make real dogs
cut legs a half inch shorter
make hinges and casters for left legs
assemble the base
drill top for spax screws
flax seed oil the wheels?
drill 3/4" holes in rear slab for hold fasts
mill and assemble plane stop
level top -hand planes or router sled
mill, cut and lap boards for shelf
apply finish - what kind?
give to Al


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


So…you will be done by tomorrow evening, that is what it sounds like to me?


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


You're just having too much fun if you ask me. Great work as usual.

Looking at you To Do list, there are a couple of items that confuse me.


Make hinges and casters for left legs.
flax seed oil the wheels? Are you really going to do that?
level top - hand planes or router sled? Surely it will be hand planes?


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


some nice work going on there.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Andy,

My dedicated shop space is small. I will need to move my bench at times. Not exactly sure when but I am sure that I will. Therefore, I am trying to devise a way to put casters on one side so that I can lift the other side and drag/roll the bench. I thought about these from Rockler but I am not sure of their durability.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Scot - At the beginning of 2011 I spent 2 months designing and sourcing the parts for an undercarriage for Benchcrafted's Split-Top Roubo. When the undercarriage is up, the bench looks just like an ordinary Split-Top Roubo even if you kneel down on the floor and look underneath. When it is down, the bench is raised an inch or so off the floor. I had to draw on my engineering background and went through a number of ideas before arriving at my final design. I invested all the time and effort because my workshop is only 9ft x 9ft and I want a 6ft bench. I have to be able to move it easily because I will be moving it often. I'm not going to reveal how it works until I make my Roubo, but it will happen one day though I promise.


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Ok Brit, now your just playing with use.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Believe it or not, I do feel bad that I can't share it with you yet. In my defense though, I do share most things with you guys, but you have to leave me something to showcase with my Roubo when I build it. Otherwise it will be (YAWN YAWN) just another Split Top Roubo.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Agree Jim. Andy is usually so forthcoming with poignant, valuable information. That is a HUGE tease. But I guess he is entitled.

Question #2:

I have a bad problem with rust to the point that when I went to retrieve the large BC hand wheel from its box, it had already rusted! It was a light rust thst the 3M scothbrite removed. However, it is discouraging. Everthing I touch oxidizes. Thus, I am intrigued by Jameel's blog post on how to seal the wheels with flax oil. Basically, the technique involves coating the wheels with flax oil then baking. The resultant wheels have a brown finish like so…....










I have not quite decided but will probably just paste wax and perform periodic maintenance.


----------



## sb194

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Looking great. I can't wait to see the finished bench.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Sorry for the multiple post but I have just sporadic moments to post.

Question #3

Leveling the top: Don't call me Shirley :^)

I am not so sure that I am going to use handplanes. It will depend on how flat it is when I get through. The top will end up 14 sq ft. That is alot of real estate and ample room for error. Milling 6 square with handplanes requires a bit of skill which I am trying to develop. Unfortunately I have found myself chasing my tail while leveling stock. I am not so sure that I want to screw up my top.

I know it sounds blasphemous. One can argue that it will a great learning experience to flatten the top with a #7. But you know ,it is also a great learning experience to flatten a slab with a router sled. Both of which I've never done before.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


I saw that coming…


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Saw which part coming?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Oh, that's *not* your shop! Here I thought the router sled was flattening your bench! Need to scan the background and find terra cotta before jumping to conclusions… 

So, which way *are* you going to flatten your benchtop?


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


I think the picture above answers that question… I'm surprised you had much flattening to do Scott, didn't you put the top together with dominos?

I went at mine with the #7 and it was quite enjoyable. Yours might have had an added level of difficulty because you had the two separate tops.

Great progress Scott, won't be long now!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Naw. The is Marc's (TWW) shop and bench. Mine is not assembled yet! The pics from this blog entry are only from Friday.

I am not sure how I am going to go at it. If it turns out pretty flat then I will probably end up flattening with a #7. Yet, if I end up with a twist and some crazy ass geometry that requires removal an 1/8" here and 1/64" there, then I'll probably do the *initial* flattening with a router sled.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


I've done that on a cutting board once, Make sure you're sled is very rigid with little downward flex. (thus the high verticals in the above pic). Also, if you can get a large bowl cutting bit with the rounded corners.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


It's easy to poke fun about using a router from the safety of my computer. I think most people take it to a big drum sander, then take a picture of a plane and some shavings, lol. Don't you hate paying for those massive forstner bits, Scott? The bench is looking spectacular. You certainly don't do anything half a$$ed. The craftsmanship on the wheels is appropriately eccessive.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


I havent even priced those bits. That may be the deciding factor.


----------



## Mosquito

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


about $35-$50 for the large router bits, depending on the size… I looked at it before, as I'm not sure about my abilities to flatten by hand just yet


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


You can use a regualr straight bit, whatever your biggest diameter bit is, just be sure to never plunge down above the bench because even a little flex in your jig will leave a shallow circular hole. You would then have to work down to that level. Plunge out on the edge (or in the space between the tops) while not over the bench and then work your way in.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Just looked again. Egads, what a massive leg vise, he said…


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


^make your chop huge, they said.
It'll be fun, they said.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Is there another bench that you are referring to? I know you are not referring to my bench.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Technically speaking, I guess you really don't have a bench yet. So there must be someone else I'm thinking of with a massive… leg… vise…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


It will crush hardwoods Like Buttah!


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Well is sure as hell ain't me Smitty.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Beautifully done as always Scott.

The roller brackets are stellar.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The BenchCrafted version.*
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> The left front leg requires a lot more development in order to turn it into a leg vise. The first step is to make a clearance mortise for the parallel guide. It needs to be nice and square so I routed to max depth and squared the corners. However, even routing from both sides I don't have enough depth. The trusty brace and bit to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't perfect but will do just fine.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The vise nut. The plan calls for a flush mount …........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TWW inlays the flange. However, that got me thinking. I am losing some excursion with my extra thick legs at 5 3/8" versus the planned 3 1/2". So I decided, after the fact, to turn the nut around and completely inlay the nut.
> 
> However, Ive already drilled for the screw and this makes a counter bore difficult. So, the leg set back on the drill press and the first bit centered. Then the counter bore for the barrel drilled. Finally the flange is inlay-ed using a router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the hole is tapped and the nut is installed. This configuration allows for a inch or so more chop travel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The acetal bushing is installed on the front face of the leg in a similar fashion: Marked, routed, corners squared, screw holes tapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a hair too deep but that's OK.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally, the roller brackets.
> 
> Fortunately, the cut-off from the chop was damn near the perfect size. A 1/16" was planed off and everything laid out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slots routed, holes drilled and tapped. This was a done on a larger piece and then they were divided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I went along with the plan and added some decorative details using primarily the bandsaw. I forgot to take pics. Finished with a little sanding and applied some mineral spirits just to check out how they'd look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The pieces are assembled and tuned. You guys have seen the BenchCrafted leg vise in action. It is wonderful hardware with a smooth action.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may note the parallel guide is only temporarily pegged because now I will disassemble most everything and "retro-fit" the chain drive.
> 
> I really appreciate you guys following along and the encouraging words!


Howdy, that was well photographed and written. We had a play by play. You are well on your way. I agree with the precision part. It looks GOOD. When you finish it should last a lifetime.


----------



## lysdexic

*Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*

Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at

[email protected]

Ancora Yacht Service

-------------------------------------------------------

Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.




























-------------------------------------------------------

Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.










Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.










------------------------------------------------------

First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......




























and leg.










-----------------------------------------------------

In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.

At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.



















2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.










---------------------------------------------------------

Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.



















---------------------------------------------------

That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.

















































































---------------------------------------------------

The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.



















-------------------------------------------------

Conclusions:

- I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install

- there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice

- I do not need a pin anymore

- the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide

-Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)

-I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.

-You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.

Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.

Thanks!!


----------



## BrandonW

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Great post, Scott. Let's see the cheesy video!

Also, I want one of these mechanisms . . . badly.


----------



## Mosquito

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


How well does it work when you're closing it? I see how the chain drive would open it nicely, but not as much with closing. Or does it really just stop the bottom from pulling in once the top is clamping something?

It looks really great, and I want one…


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Very interesting Scott. Nice install and thanks for the detailed pics. Congrats to Jim too.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


do you have to ware a sailors cap to navigate it? I've got to let this sink in. To much technology top fast. I've got brain freeze.

Beautiful execution.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Chris,

I guess I should quit calling it a chain "drive." The chain does not drive anything but it is slaved to the postion of the chop which driven by the screw. Therefore, it doesn't matter if the vise is going in or out. The chain foillows along and keeps the chop parallel.

The overall action may be a slight bit more jerky than with two rollers but you can clamp any object of any size without racking and without a pin. Cool.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Damn thats sexy!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


I think my stretcher locations might prevent me from using this… Must check…


----------



## Mosquito

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


I knew it didn't actively push or pull the bottom, I was just curious if it would go slack when you moved it in or not (from the bottom of the leg vise not moving with the top right away)


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


so the holes are drilled in case your change your mind?

I hate it when it goes slack, (ok, just can't write the rest)


----------



## sb194

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


That is very cool. Still can't wait to see the completed bench.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


*Chris*, I don't mean to insult you at all. I just realized i was using some misleading verbage.

Regardless, the chain may "bounce" with slack momentarily as you change directions from out to in.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


*Don*, exactly. I had every intention to build per the BC plan. There is no better time to execute that plan than now. Like I said - I didn't know if the chain leg vise would work. As a bonus, it demonstrates how one can retro-fit a bench.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Looking good Scott, I like the lever cap shape you gave it. Kinda stinks about the rusting aspect. There should be metal polishes out there that should slow or stop that, no?


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


*Shane* - I don't know if it is the environment or if I exude some caustic film from every pore.


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Nice job Scott. Smitty you may be able to use the stretcher to hold one side of the sprocket. That is what I did on my bench that was planed around this chain device. I put the beam low and the stretcher holds one side of the sprocket. Post a photo of that area when you get a chance and I'll see what can be done.


----------



## RGtools

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


This is so cool…I wish I had something pithy to say but I am spent.


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Scott when you said two toned I could not figure out what you were talking about but I think it is the bronze and the steel. If that's the case and is objectionable the counterbore could be deeper and a wood cover of your choice then inserted on top.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Scott, what turns the sprocket? And how does the chain push?

Its certainly interesting.


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Hi Don. The sprockets are idlers. The chain does not push anything. The jaw pulls it in opening direction and the beam pulls it in the closing direction.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Boatman I think that brass looks sweet, it needs a logo engraved on it.

Don, the sprocket is just a roller basically. The screw makes everything work. If you think about it, as the length of chain in front of the leg shortens, the length on the back of the leg lengthens an equal amount and vice versa keeping the chop parallel at all times.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Benchcrafted not required to make this work, right?


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


yep, got it now. For some reason my mind had the bronze grommet in the leg. Now it makes sense. I think it was the 3rd cup of coffee!


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Smitty… Type of screw does not matter. It operates independent of the screw. I have a Lie-Nielen screw, Derek has a wooden screw and Scott has the BenchCrafted. It just needs to be mounted as close as possible for best performance.
Mauricio… Yea I'm trying to figure out a nice simple logo. I am thinking of having Catharine Kennedy (cloudy) do a a floral hand engraving on the first 25 sold. And as an option after that.


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Man, that thing is slick as all get out. Calling you out on your cordless drills neatly arranged, facing forward, even spacing. OCD.


----------



## GrandpaLen

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


That chain drive is a S-M-O-O-T-H operator, as are you Scott. 

Thanks for the great, step by step Blog.

...and Kudos to Jim for his Chain Guided Parallel-ism-izer thingy. Quite revolutionary. ;-)

Work Safely and have Fun.- Grandpa Len


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Thanks everyone for the complements.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Jim, do you have a publicly publicized price yet?


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Don.. Not yet. I've got some bids back but not enough to say for certain. The shops that are bidding have till Monday ( two weeks from when I sent out the bid package) Monday night I'll be choosing and will have at least an introductory price on the first 100 kits sold. As well as a proposed delivery date.
Jim


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


thanks Jim.


----------



## bhog

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Really nice Scott, surgical precision.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *Leg Vise - The Chain Leg Vise version.*
> 
> Jim (Boatman53) has come up with a new/old way to keep the leg vise parallel without the need for a pin. Disclosure: There is no monetary or financial benefit on my part. Also, this is not a review or endorsement. I plan on doing a objective review once I use it for some time. If you have questions that you would like to ask Jim directly you can email him at
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Ancora Yacht Service
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before permanent installation into the chop, I went ahead and made the notch on the parallel guide. It turns out that the screw was a little long but that is because I cut may "decorative" bevel without planning ahead. Regardless, It filed down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Before dis-assembly, I marked the bottom of the big screw nut plus threw an 1/8" in for safety. 1/2" below that is the centerline for all the boring. I transferred this line to the front of the leg and chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I took apart the BenchCrafted version. First to do this "retro-fit" but also shave the pencil marks and "road grime" from the chop and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> First, the bronze grommet gets a 1" counter bore. After that I drilled a 5/8" hole through the chop….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> In the above picture you can see the layout for the mortise version of the chain drive leg vise. There is also a surface mount bracket version that would obviously be easier if this was a *true* retro-fit. A 1/4" straight router bit keep the mortise bottom square to the surface. To me this is important because this will define the axis of rotation for the sprocket. If I were more skilled then a mortise chisel could execute this chore adequately.
> 
> At first it is tad tight but with a little paring it fits nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 retaining screws keep the axle in the mortise. These are not critical as the resultant vector is down and into the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Jim provides a 3/8" spacer to help alignment of the lower bracket. The holes are marked with brad point bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> That is about it. The leg vise is re-assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> The front roller bracket is still used with this system. Actually, looking at that picture, I need to adjust the wheel up a smidge. The back roller bracket is removed as you can see the tapped holes under the chain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> - I wish I had taken a picture of the kit components before install
> 
> - there is no decline in the over all smoothness of the vice
> 
> - I do not need a pin anymore
> 
> - the parallelism is easily adjusted by the nut on the parallel guide
> 
> -Some (bertha) will object to the two-tone :^)
> 
> -I had to try the crushed can trick. Just had to. I even shot a cheesy video but it is too awful to post.
> 
> -You may ask why I went through the trouble of making the BenchCrafted version first. Well, in all fairness, I didn't know if the chain drive leg vise would work. If it didn't, then I could go right back to the BC version before assembly. But that is not going to happen.
> 
> Now, I am up to date and current on these blog posts. Damn, this a bit of work.
> 
> Thanks!!


Now that there is science fiction. That is cool. Nice!


----------



## lysdexic

*Getting ready for assembly*

There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.

First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.

All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.














































----------------------------------------------------------------

The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.





































Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.

This little operation was much harder than it should have been.



















-----------------------------------------------------------------

I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.



















---------------------------------------------------------------

I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.



















----------------------------------------------------------------

These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.



















----------------------------------------------------------------

Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.










Thanks for looking.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


About time we got an update! Looks like you almost got it now….legs are looking beefy. I like it.


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Very nice Scott. Is the top just going to sit on those leg tenons? Or will it be bolted through the upper stretcher? Thanks for the update. Jim


----------



## Mosquito

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Looks like it's coming together nicely. Did you drive the pins through a doweling plate? or leave them as they were off the block plane?


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Shane - I am surprised that you let me go this long.

Jim - thanks. My next installment show the mortises but the slabs are lagged to the upper stretchers with spax screws.

Chris - the dowel plate pic added. Sorry about that.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Good to see the legs assembled. I bet that feels great to have it done. That is a great shot of the chamfer on the leg; it looks flawless.


----------



## Mosquito

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Not a problem, I was just curious if you were just THAT good at rounding with a block plane lol


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Smitty in a skirt oh my! That was funny and the legs you have shave are very pretty as well. I did love what you have done with the children signing the pegs. Good stuff.
Nice pictures as well. Action shots are great.


----------



## bhog

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Ya baby!.Nice work Scott.


----------



## sb194

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Nice work. It will be great to see it finished. I like how you included the kids in on the build. Someday it will be handed down to them, so why not include them on the construction.

Sean


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Yeah! Its almost there. I cant wait to do the drawboring on mine. I can see using that for so many assemblies.

I like the idea of getting the kids involved but I'm so stressed out during glue ups that I'm not sure how that would go.


----------



## BrandonW

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Excellent photos, Scott. I had a dream about that dowel plate last night. I know, I have issues.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Mauricio, glue ups using the draw bore are much less hectic. Glue the mortise, glue the tenon, insert, glue and pound the pegs. No clamps needed and there really isn't anything that you can do about the alignment.

I'm a big fan.

NOTE: I typed this about 2 hours ago but did not post


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


I've hate when that happens. I've done the delayed post thing more than once.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


That's a great assembly Scott, but d'ya know what you forgot to do?


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


...absolutely nothing.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks Andy. I did actually sit down and went through a list of things to do and identified those that are easier to do prior to glue up. One place I almost screwed up was knocking the corners off at the m&t joints.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Good catch. I wish I had a dollar for every time I've done that.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Getting ready for assembly*
> 
> There a lot of items that are much easier to accomplish prior to glue-up.
> 
> First, I need some 3/8" cherry pegs. I went with cherry to keep the visual contrast subtle. Another thing is I let my kids make some pegs and write their name on them. During glue-up I let them drive their respective pegs in the give them a sense of ownership.
> 
> All these were made from scrap and were sized down to ~ 7/16" on the band saw. Then the corners were chamfered with a block plane. I made this litttle V grooved jig to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The bottom stretchers have a 3/8" dado to in which a ledger is glued into to support the bottom shelf. I felt a little galooty. I took a cut off that would allow me to get 2 pieces off of each side. First I four squared it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once squared up, I broke out the skewed rabbet plane and created a 1/8" rabbet. The first pic I actually posted as a random shot but realized, after scrutinizing the pic, that I was way caddie-whompus. I fixed it but then the rabbet was too deep. Finally I got it. Did the same operation on the other side and ripped it with the table saw.
> 
> This little operation was much harder than it should have been.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I forgot to drill the stretchers for the draw-bore. So, I re-assembled and checked my marks. After drilling I "counter-sunk" the entry side just to ensure that the peg doesn't get hung up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I finally committed to a bench height of 34 1/2" inches. Thus I cut -off another 1/2" inch from the legs. I think this is the 4th time I've cut these bastards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> These pics are from a couple weeks ago. So, about that time Smitty was putting his skirt on as I was shaving my legs. Also, I took the time to break the edges and file the hole edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Not a lot a pics from the glue-up. I *really* like the draw-bore technique. I only used a 1/16" offset and it went flawlessly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Andy, you know what I am looking forward to the most after this beach build? I am itching to get my 14" Tyzack cleaned and sharpened. I am trying to exercise a bit of discipline by not starting anything until this bench is done, done, done.


----------



## lysdexic

*Attaching the top*

Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.

These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.





































------------------------------------------------------------------

Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...

A whisp of smoke









and a burning ember









Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented



















------------------------------------------------------------------

Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.










----------------------------------------------------------------

Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements










------------------------------------------------------------

The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.



















---------------------------------------------------------------------
Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."









































































The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


----------



## RyanHaasen

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


That is a beautiful bench!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Thanks Ryan. I just whipped it up real quick :^)

What's up with the pic of the Bell Jet Ranger?


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Hooray! Hooray! It looks great, that end vise and the dovetails look sweet. First class. Congrats, and thanks for taking the time to do the write ups and taking all the pics.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Just for you Shane. Just for you.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Most Excellent Build! If it uses even a third as good as it looks, you've a lifetime of Awesome in store…


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


I bet moving that mass was no easy chore? She is a fine bench. I bet you are a proud father of a wondeful new bench.
Have you named it yet?


----------



## waho6o9

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Outstanding work Lysdexic, may it serve you well for years.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Named it? Wow I hadn't thought of that.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


My wife was proof reading one of my blogs one night. I had put a adverb or pronoun in that was describing a tool as an animate object. She corrected me in saying it is not a living thing. I told her it is and didn't change the statement.
Why as men do we refer to boats and cars as ole girl and name them?
I wonder.


----------



## thedude50

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


And Al said it was going to take you forever HA HA. Too cool Scott, You really made me proud of you young man. Snicker. The one shot makes it look like the stretchers are at different heights. I know it is not really but it was kind of a wired angle and you had me worried for a minute.What did you use to make the top 6×4s that top is thick for days it has to be one of the thickest I have seen. Do you have a 12 inch table saw or what?How did you rip boards that thick? How deep are the mortises you used for the stretchers and the rails? I really am proud of you. You're really on your way my friend.


----------



## bhog

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Looks like you have been busy.

Just wondering if when its all over and your finished with the build are you going to take a sharp 3/8" chisel and gouge her a couple times?You know just to get it over with? 

Looks really good Scott


----------



## racerglen

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Beauty Scott, very fine work and I'll bet you'll be able to plane some birdseye maple without it moving !


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Dude, this bench has taken what seems like forever. I am not sure which pic makes it look like the stretchers are at different heights. I will say that the maple that I used is many different colors and limited in quantity. Thus, I picked the darker pieces for the most visible. Again, this was to diminish the contrast to the cherry legs.

Noitce the two upper stretchers are really light but disappear once the top is on. There is a lower stretcher that is lighter and it is in the back.

The top is just face glued to achieve the thickness. I milled for days - literally. My TS is a 10 incher.

Brandon - I am still contemplating the inaugural damage.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Thanks for the kind words.

Dave - I will never name my planes. I heard they hate that and I wouldn't want to anger them.


----------



## RGtools

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


I am confused. How to you operate the first doghole? The one closest to your tail-vise above the leg. My question is how do you push the dog back up?


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Ryan - if you look at the front of the front left leg it has that big hole at the top. Then if you look at the pic above drilling into the leg tenon, that is the same leg. That hole goes all the way down to tunnel created by the "front" hole. The vertical aspect is enlarged and squared off so the the dog slides down into the leg and is accessible from the front of the leg.

Clear as mud?


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Beautiful work Scott. Congratulations.


----------



## sb194

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Great looking bench. It should last generations.

Sean


----------



## BrandonW

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Pure bliss, Scott. I've said it before, but it warrants saying again. That's one of the finest benches I've ever seen--and I've looked a lot of pictures of benches. Absolutely great work!


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Magnificent! The angels are still singing. Wouldn't it have sucked if the bench caught fire in the home stretch? Thankfully thats unlikely. Great pics of the embers and smoke. Whats left on the to-do list?


----------



## RGtools

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Why didn't I think of that. Thanks Scott.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


To do list:

Finish deadman - blog entry to follow
mill and cut boards for shelf
Drill holes for holdfasts
construct 2 spacers one solid and one as a tool holder
dis-assemble and apply finish except for the top surface
re-assemble
flatten and finish top surface
put on stickers
make dogs


----------



## RGtools

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


^stickers?

Please don't "Pimp yo bench"


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Why not finish the top surface? Wont it warp if you dont finish all side.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Mauricio, 
I am going to finish the base, leg vise and all surfaces of the top while the bench is disassembled. Then I am going to attach and lag the top on one last time. Then I will flatten the top and apply the finish to the top surface.

Ryan - you have seen those stick figure stickers on the back of cars? You know the ones with mom, three men and six kids and a cat. Yeah, that's what I am putting on the end grain on the right side.


----------



## terryR

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Looking sweet! Thanks for all the great photos of this nearly impossible build…great inspiration for the rest of us…


----------



## thedude50

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


So Scott how thick is the top ?


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


4 1/16" thick, but hey, size doesn't matter.


----------



## thedude50

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


In the photos I would swear it was 6 inches thick. Mine is 4.5 but, I still have to run the tops through the planer. To get them flat, the first bench came out to 3.65 it was roughed at 4 inches. So i cut the second one .5 thicker.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Lance, after my glue up I took both slabs to the shop where I bought my lumber and ran them an industrial belt sander. It wasn't free and I do not regret it.


----------



## bigike

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


That is a saweeeeeeeet bench I want one soooo bad!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Thanks Ike. I finally just went and bought the lumber. I was committed then.


----------



## Gibney

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Wow, really terrific bench. Quick question: i see how you mortised out the top to accept the top leg tenons - how did you connect them? Are they pinned?


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Gibney,

No sir. The top slabs are not attached permanently. They are stabilized by the stub tenons but lagged to the top two stretchers with Spax screws. So, the top two slabs can be removed anytime.


----------



## stuckinthestudio

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Beautiful bench!! What product did you end up finishing this with?


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Nate-

Thanks. I used 3:2:1 for the entire thing but if I had to do it again I wouldn't use a film finish on the top. I would use a oil finish.


----------



## theoldfart

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Scott, something like Danish oil?


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


Yeah. Something like that. I haven't given it any specific thought. I just remember Mike Pechovich on FWW Shoptalk live explain why oil is better than film on a workbench top.

The film finish is just that - a film. Every ding and scratch, which should be many, leaves the wood unprotected. The oil penetrates the fibers and just needs to a wipe to reapply.

Plus, when it comes time to reflatten I am not sure what is going to be like to plane a film finish.


----------



## theoldfart

lysdexic said:


> *Attaching the top*
> 
> Before attaching the top a few things need to be done. First I dont have any pics of the final shavings or breaking the edges. Obviously I need to makes some mortises.
> 
> These were accomplished by router and squared off by chisel. The one closest to the wagon vise required a little more work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, I routed the slot for the deadman. The plan called for the slot to be 1 1/2" deep the whole lenght but I only did that for the 8" next to the left leg. The rest of the slot is only 1" deep. Check this out. I have learned a lot during this build and now a fully understand that I take too deep of bites withe router. It creates a lot of heat…...
> 
> A whisp of smoke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a burning ember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a coat of wax on while the slot is presented
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Finally the dog hole of the front left leg needs access through the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Just a cool pic that illustrates the mass of the elements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The upside down test fit is pretty good but I was not happy how the left leg fit. It sat about a 1/32" back from the front face of the top. To get them flush I'd have to plane the entire face of the top. Instead I enlarged the mortise forward and glued a spacer in the back to keep it solid. This allows me to barely shave the leg flush to the top which is much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Finally, moved the bench out into some better light for some "glamor shots."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The list of things to do is getting smaller….................thanks for checking out the progress.


I think Garrett Hack says the same thing.


----------



## lysdexic

*The Deadman*

In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.

Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman










I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.




























I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.

*NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?





































------------------------------------------------------------------

Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.

After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.




























This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.

I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.




























After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}




























-----------------------------------------------------------------

Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.




























WHOOPS.




























-----------------------------------------------------------------

This is where things stand tonight.





































----------------------------------------------------------------

Thoughts from here:

The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.

I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.

The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.

Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset

Draw bore each end

The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.

Need to epoxy the checks.

Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.
> 
> Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.
> 
> *NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.
> 
> After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.
> 
> I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHOOPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where things stand tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thoughts from here:
> 
> The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.
> 
> I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.
> 
> The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.
> 
> Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset
> 
> Draw bore each end
> 
> The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.
> 
> Need to epoxy the checks.
> 
> Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


Great job, the cat looks like it approves, as do I. And they said it would take a year!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.
> 
> Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.
> 
> *NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.
> 
> After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.
> 
> I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHOOPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where things stand tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thoughts from here:
> 
> The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.
> 
> I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.
> 
> The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.
> 
> Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset
> 
> Draw bore each end
> 
> The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.
> 
> Need to epoxy the checks.
> 
> Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


This picture was taken March 10, almost 5 months ago.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.
> 
> Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.
> 
> *NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.
> 
> After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.
> 
> I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> WHOOPS.
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where things stand tonight.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thoughts from here:
> 
> The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.
> 
> I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.
> 
> The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.
> 
> Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset
> 
> Draw bore each end
> 
> The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.
> 
> Need to epoxy the checks.
> 
> Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


That deadman is going to looks sweet, I like the coves, it will look very romanesque without being too flashy. Between the vise chop and the coves in the deadman it will look like a beadrock!


----------



## racerglen

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.
> 
> Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.
> 
> *NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.
> 
> After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.
> 
> I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHOOPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where things stand tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thoughts from here:
> 
> The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.
> 
> I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.
> 
> The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.
> 
> Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset
> 
> Draw bore each end
> 
> The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.
> 
> Need to epoxy the checks.
> 
> Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


Gee only 5 months ago it was "just" lumber ;-)
Fells like a certain #4 on my bench..lol..
Scott you're doing an awsome job !
love it !


----------



## SPalm

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.
> 
> Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.
> 
> *NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.
> 
> After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.
> 
> I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHOOPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where things stand tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thoughts from here:
> 
> The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.
> 
> I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.
> 
> The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.
> 
> Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset
> 
> Draw bore each end
> 
> The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.
> 
> Need to epoxy the checks.
> 
> Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


This is just a fantastic blog to follow.
And your galootness keeps popping up. Cool.

What a wonderful job,
Steve


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.
> 
> Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.
> 
> *NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.
> 
> After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.
> 
> I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHOOPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where things stand tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thoughts from here:
> 
> The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.
> 
> I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.
> 
> The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.
> 
> Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset
> 
> Draw bore each end
> 
> The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.
> 
> Need to epoxy the checks.
> 
> Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


Scott you have done a masterful job and need to be commended. Well Done!
This is a wonderful build. 
I would leave the checks, the gives it character. Just treat it as you do the rest of the bench and periodically check on it for added treatment. IMHO
Great Job.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.
> 
> Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.
> 
> *NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.
> 
> After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.
> 
> I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHOOPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where things stand tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thoughts from here:
> 
> The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.
> 
> I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.
> 
> The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.
> 
> Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset
> 
> Draw bore each end
> 
> The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.
> 
> Need to epoxy the checks.
> 
> Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


Thanks for the comments all.

Dave, so you think I should just leave the checks? There presence kind of surprised me and right at an area subject bending stresses normal to the axis of the check.

Mauricio - thanks for using the word cove. I have a lot to learn about the language of design.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.
> 
> Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.
> 
> *NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.
> 
> After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.
> 
> I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHOOPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where things stand tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thoughts from here:
> 
> The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.
> 
> I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.
> 
> The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.
> 
> Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset
> 
> Draw bore each end
> 
> The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.
> 
> Need to epoxy the checks.
> 
> Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


I would leave them open and watch them thought the next few seasons. See if they move then if so address the issue.
Lightly fill the check with candle wax and that will give you a good visual of the movement.
IMHO


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.
> 
> Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.
> 
> *NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.
> 
> After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.
> 
> I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHOOPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where things stand tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thoughts from here:
> 
> The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.
> 
> I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.
> 
> The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.
> 
> Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset
> 
> Draw bore each end
> 
> The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.
> 
> Need to epoxy the checks.
> 
> Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


Sounds reasonable. Thanks for the candle wax tip Sir.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.
> 
> Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.
> 
> *NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.
> 
> After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.
> 
> I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHOOPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where things stand tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thoughts from here:
> 
> The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.
> 
> I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.
> 
> The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.
> 
> Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset
> 
> Draw bore each end
> 
> The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.
> 
> Need to epoxy the checks.
> 
> Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


Almost there Scott. Bring it on home baby!


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.
> 
> Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.
> 
> *NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.
> 
> After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.
> 
> I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHOOPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where things stand tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thoughts from here:
> 
> The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.
> 
> I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.
> 
> The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.
> 
> Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset
> 
> Draw bore each end
> 
> The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.
> 
> Need to epoxy the checks.
> 
> Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


I just read the free chapter of the moulding planes book that Lost Art Press is putting out, picked up some new vocabulary words.

I think Scott is already done and just sandbagging on us.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.
> 
> Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.
> 
> *NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.
> 
> After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.
> 
> I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHOOPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where things stand tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thoughts from here:
> 
> The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.
> 
> I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.
> 
> The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.
> 
> Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset
> 
> Draw bore each end
> 
> The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.
> 
> Need to epoxy the checks.
> 
> Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


Mauricio, I have not taken the time to read that chapter. Is it worth the time? I just don't know if I will ever achieve that level of galootness.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.
> 
> Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.
> 
> *NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.
> 
> After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.
> 
> I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHOOPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where things stand tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thoughts from here:
> 
> The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.
> 
> I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.
> 
> The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.
> 
> Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset
> 
> Draw bore each end
> 
> The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.
> 
> Need to epoxy the checks.
> 
> Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


I enjoyed the chapter, it was very interesting, I really like how they decompose every possible shape starting out with rabbets that then guide the hollows and rounds. And you learn a little architectural lingo while your at it..

He also shows you that you don't need the whole set, you can do most anything with two pairs of hollows and rounds. The problem is that I don't make period furniture, and moldings are not much in style these days. We are more into the pottery barn style rustic furniture with the blotchy brown finish and indistinguishable wood type.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.
> 
> Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.
> 
> *NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.
> 
> After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.
> 
> I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHOOPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where things stand tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thoughts from here:
> 
> The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.
> 
> I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.
> 
> The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.
> 
> Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset
> 
> Draw bore each end
> 
> The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.
> 
> Need to epoxy the checks.
> 
> Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


Mauricio,

Don't feel bad. Well, you never said that you did so I guess that is a Freudian slip. I feel bad because I also like the C&B style. Even worse I like PB as well. But then again, I think that I have admitted to being a hopeless, suburban yuppie.

I my defense, however, I have never been to an IKEA.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> In designing the deadman I realized that I would need to sacrifice/mill a huge piece of cherry. I only have one piece left and I don't think I need to use it.
> 
> Instead I decided to use 3 pieces like Kari Hultman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I modified the TWW plan and got some scrap pieces together. I milled the end pieces as one. After flattening one side with a #7 it was re-saw on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take pics while routing the mortises. After that was done, the piece was cross cut in half. One side got a rabbet for the top. The other recieved a 45 degree V cut for the bottom.
> 
> *NOTE*: the piece that has the rabbet still has some checks. Any advise on how to seal/stabilize these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, in order to measure directly for the vertical element, I went ahead and made the V track. I dreaded making this and I don't know why. I figured the safest way would cut a larger piece with a V. That way it is easy to clamp for planing and easier to hold while ripping that piece off at the TS.
> 
> After I cut the first corner off to make the V I realized I could have just corner off a square board to begin with! Duh! Oh well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This piece ended up having a lot of curl and character. The sharp points are chamfered.
> 
> I love it when you can see a reflection off a planed surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting it to basic length the shooting board helps sneak up on a perfect fit. {For any one who reads this and is thinking of making a shooting board. The bench hook/miter box that I made at the same time with the same dimensions works great as a helper.}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Next, cutting the tenons on the vertical piece. I like to cut the shoulders on the TS. Using the fence with a stop i can quickly achieve consistent depth and square cuts. The cheeks are cut with my only working "tenon" saw - the LN DT saw. This went really well as the tenons required minimal work for a nice fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHOOPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where things stand tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thoughts from here:
> 
> The face of the deadman is not coplanar with the legs and top. The contributing dimensions followed the plan. Don't know if this is critical.
> 
> I still need to cut the curves out as seen by the pencil marks. This design element echos the curve in the chop.
> 
> The slight reveal between the capitals and the vertical is on purpose. The original dimensions of the vertical element are a little bulky. I am considering thinning it by a half inch on each side. However, I don't want the deadman to be over refined compared to the rest of the bench.
> 
> Drill 2 rows of 3/4" holes at 1/2" offset
> 
> Draw bore each end
> 
> The tongue of the upper rabbet is too short. I will glue a piece on since we're working with long grain. Jatoba for better wear characteristics? Nah, probably over kill.
> 
> Need to epoxy the checks.
> 
> Thanks for following along. I am sure you guys are getting as fatigued with this blog as I am. Gotta finish it though.


Yeah, also Pier One and World Market, its all pretty similar. Its all made of Rubber wood which I had to look up. wikipedia says it used to be just burned but now because of the decline in standards it is now used for furniture.


----------



## lysdexic

*The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*

Last time we were here.










But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.

To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.

The piece is upside down in the pic.




























The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.










From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.










This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother




























I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.










It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.





































Once again thanks for following along.


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Looks good Scott. Nice solution to those little issues. Glad to see some more progress.
Jim


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Thanks Jim. Time in the shop these days has been sparse.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Its a pity the real world gets in the way of shop time. Thanks for the update on the solutions, the bench is looking glorious. I am kind of jealous, honestly. I can admit it.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Yeah, but I can't sleep on my bench.


----------



## Mosquito

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


looks like good progress. The fixes look like they worked out well


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


I bet you could. I know I cant plane with/on a bed…


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


:^)


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Shane, that bed you made is friggin awesome.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Sweeet. I guess you don't suck.

Seriously, very clever solutions, and well executed. Nice work, Scott.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


to me, its this kind of thing that separates a good woodworking (or someone that sucks), when a mistake looks like a design choice. Someone looking at that maple strip will never know it its a glide, or a shim.

I'm with smitty on this one. you don't suck.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Nice! Capitulo Dos, see you know a little more Spanish then your letting on.

The deadman is looking amazing Scott.

Nice fixes, when you get a chance could you please post the formula for calculating the hypotenuse of a triangle? ;-) I'm sure I knew that once upon a time.


----------



## chrisstef

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Gettin it done Scott, i like the fixes .. ohh and the bench too. And i agree on the unsuckiness.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Great fix, the coves look splendid too. I really like your stock removal technique, thanks for the tip.

Nicely done Scott.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


a squared x b squared= c squared…where c is hypotenuse ….right? A little pythagreon theorum?


----------



## Mosquito

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


a^2 + b^2 = c^2


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Thanks Mos!


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Aesthetically, I've never liked that gap that allows you to lift the deadman up and out. In fact, I'm struggling to think of a time when you're likely to want to remove the deadman. I think I might do something different there when the time comes. I must say though Scot, it was nice of you to build a prototype of my dream bench so I don't have to make the same mistakes. I'm sure I'll find some mistakes of my own though.


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


I agree with you Andy about the gap at the top of the deadman. But I remove my deadman via a cut away of the vee on the left side of the track. I plan on building a drawer storage unit under the bench and the deadman will get in the way of drawers. I will only install it when I need it, not very often with most of my work.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Great fix and good conversation.
Thanks for keeping us up to date.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


I agree with both of you. I am not crazy about the gap either and I gave strong consideration to Jim's design, leaving a gap in the V rail for deadman removal. Also, with this design I can always back out the spax screws and lift the front slab off. Yet, would I need to re-flatten the top every time?

In the end, none of these objections were strong enough to sway me from the plan. Maybe laziness. After this long on a project I find myself saying "that is good enough lets move on."


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Furthermore…..

I can always make another deadman and employee any of these strategies.

Mauricio has a solid idea of having a screw attached, removable piece of the V track.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


putting drawers (or any kind of storage really) under the cabinet would be a reason to want to remove the deadman. It would take a pretty critical eye to notice that gap and see it as a flaw. After all, this is meant to be a function piece of equipment, not a fine piece of furniture. For those who think a bench can be both, have never worked in my shop.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. To me there is a merge of looks and functionality. And there certainly is beauty in functionality.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


lysdexic please don't let the " I am near the end monster " get you. You will get there.
He gets me almost every time. And really good on stuff that takes longer than a few weeks to put together.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


" I am near the end monster ". I find that doing another small project in between tames the monster.


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


UPDATE:

I got the my son involved a little today finishing up the deadman. He drilled the holes for the draw bore and he enjoyed smashing some cherry through the dowel plate.

I did not use glue this time. I put a little mineral spirits on for the "glamor shots."


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## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Yea, smashing some cherry through the dowel plate, that's manly enough. Good to see a future woodworker at it.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Sweet! My son likes operating the drill press too. 
I like the accent that the pins add. The to-do list has to be very short now right?


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Hmmm, off the top of my head…....

fabricate dogs
rabbets for the shelf boards
fabricate center gap stop solid and slotted
drill 3/4" hold fasts holes
finish (still stuck on this. what to use?)

*flatten to top* - that's the biggie.
finish for the top
casters
stickers

Progress is slow. Time in shop is sporadic. See signature.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


Mauricio,

after our previous discussion on draw bores +/- glue, I really wanted to try one without and these M/T's seemed like a good opportunity. The dowels are the same 3/8" and have similar spacing as all the other drawbore pegs.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Deadman - Capitulo Dos*
> 
> Last time we were here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I had a few issues and unfinished business. First the surface of the dead man was not flush with the front plane of the bench. Probably not a big deal but Smitty said I'd suck if I left it that way. Also, the dead man sat a little low and the top of the rebate did not extend into the groove very far.
> 
> To solve the all of these problem I did a little gluing. First I put a 1/8" shim on the front of the inverted V. This moved it out toward the face by the hypotenuse of a 1/8" right triangle. You figure it out.
> 
> The piece is upside down in the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top rabbet was short and a little narrow so I just glued a little piece of jatoba on. I let it overhang in the back in order to push the top part of the deadman out toward the front bench plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From a design standpoint I wanted a slightly slimmer look, not much though. In order to do this a mark a ~1/8" around the vertical piece with the tite mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the way I like to take off some stock. I'll bevel down to the mark and the color the bevel. I will do fairly heavy stock removal with the #5. Just as I am getting ready to plane trough the bevel I will finish with the jointer, the finish with the smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out for the curves (coves?) on the band saw and sanded them on the spindle sander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a little more and sanding and fine tuning. The M/T will get a 3/8" draw bore to match the others but this is where it sits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks for following along.


I'm sure its good for about 500 years.


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## lysdexic

*The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*

The pace slows.

I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.

Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.



















After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.




























The final result.



















---------------------------------------------------------------

Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.



















After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.



















Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.





































I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.










*Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
*









I guess a need more practice.

--------------------------------------------------------------

Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


----------



## LukieB

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Wow Scott, the bench is looking amazing. Couldn't help but notice the Bad Axe saw. Do you like that thing? It seems like I remember them getting good reviews, but I can't remember.


----------



## GrandpaLen

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Scott,

Your 'Bench Build Blog' has been both interesting and entertaining, with a dash of skill developement thrown in for good measure. 
You've done yourself proud on this project and it sounds as though you're more than ready for it to be completed.

We all need to push our limits in order to keep growing and to test our own metal from time to time.

The remaining amenities and finish are the 'Icing on the Cake'. ...then you can pop open a 'cold one', 'cause you've earned it, my friend. ;-)

I for one, would like to thank you for taking us along on your journey and for sharing even the re-engineering at times, which proves that no matter what the err, it's how well one can recover that counts.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Grandpa Len


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Lucas, I guess a love the saw thus far. I mean I haven't used it as much as I'd like. Still, the handle is mesquite and fits perfect. Mark has different size handles based on the width of your palm. I cuts great once a got the mechanics down.

The down side to Bad Axe saws is the turn around time. Although advertised as 12 weeks when I ordered, the saw took 7 months to ship.

I guess this has been a big deal for him because I just got an email from Bad Axe explaining how he has finally hired and trained enough competent people to keep up with demand. The main message was that if you order by the end of the month that he guarantees that it will be under the X-mas tree.

From the Bad Axe website:

News Flash: Guaranteed Delivery before Christmas with 10% off for all Bad Axe saw orders placed between 15 Sep - 30 Sep 2012

The above saw is a 12" xcut with mesquite handle but it I thought long and hard about Walnut with stainless back and fastners.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Thanks Len

These blogs are quite a task. Some are a lot better at blogging than I.

I have finally decided to go with a 3:2:1 varnish finish. I have experience with it, its easy, its durable.


----------



## Mosquito

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Scott, I really like that skewed rabbet plane. And it still scares the crap out of me every time I see one of those pictures…

Re: Bad Axe… I also noticed that. I wonder if he does shop tours… I was looking, and I noticed that his shop is only about an hour and a half from my parents' cabin, and just under an hour from my sister's place… I have a LN dovetail saw, and just got a Disston Tenon saw, but I was taking a serious look at the Bad Axe… But it is quite pricey…


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


They are pricy and I am going to really have to have a need before I buy another. In the meantime, I also ordered a LN DT saw. I sold my Veritas DT to Shane and didn't want to be without for another 7 months. I have a 14" Tyzack tenon saw that i still need to restore. That being said, I often need a bigger back saw.

Look at the above pics and you see that the Bad Axe just ran out of plate and I finished the cut on the bandsaw a pared with a chisel.

I'd love to check out his shop. Actually I'd like to just have a beer with as he sounds like an interesting fellow. He is going to WIA in Cinci which a think I am going to attend.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


you are bringing it down the home stretch now. It has been great to watch it come together. I imagine your ww skill and confidence will a lot higher after doing such a fine job on an important/complex build. Fantastic job!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


I appreciate that Shane. I really do. But it isn't done yet.

You know, I have decided how I want to mar the top when I get this bitch TRULY finished. I would love to have all you guys over for a beer and let everyone leave drink rings on the top as evidence.

That would be awesome.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


What a great bench and it was great to follow you through it. I'm with Mos, I really need one of the skewed rabbit planes.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


I'm thinking jointer cutter in the shaper vs. dado stack, but if I woulda used dado blades then it woulda been rip-style in the RAS. I'm crazy that way.

Meh. The skew did a nice job, too.



Your bench is a beast! And watching the build has been very, very cool. I have gained an insight into workworking precision that I wouldn't have known without your blogs. And the results is incredible. Congrats, Scott, on the stretch run status of the project. Fine work, thanks for taking us along.


----------



## shipwright

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


I've only become interested in this type of bench recently and have started looking at the build blogs. 
You have my admiration. 
This is a beautiful piece of work. 
You should be proud.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Great progress, and very nice tool porn shots. The shelf came out very nice. I really like the skew rabet. I could definitely see getting one of those one day.

Its making me think, I was going to hang my shelves on the bottom edge of the stretchers. I guess just because that's how Roy Underhill did on his roubo but he put a lid on it and made it a chest. Also because my stretchers are wide, it would be a lot of wasted space. I think I'll go low since I don't plan on putting a cabinet down there
.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Beautiful bench Scott and a great blog series. Glad your saw cuts are coming out better now. Your Tyzack awaits. If you don't fancy it, send it to me and I'll do it for you.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


You guys act like this thing is done. Not until I put the stickers on.

*Don and Smit*, the skew rabbet works very well but, unlike a lot of folks here, I haven't put the time and effort to find, rehab and learn a more traditional moving fillister. So, I cant really compare. I wish I could.

*Paul*, good luck on your bench build and I hope that this blog helps in some way.

*Maur* - somewhere I have read about putting the shelf near the top of the stretcher with only a minimal lip. The though process was that you don't need a deep well for storage. It is not like whatever you put down there is going slosh about. Also, while using a shelf that low you are at a mechanical disadvantage stooping over. Thus, make it easier on yourself and raise the shelf and diminish the lip. Made sense to me. I do plan on putting a cabinet down there someday, a la Smitty.

*Andy* - when I get to the Tyzack I bend my attention towards your blogs for guidance. Do you like my Yankee 2100?

Finally, *Andy*, I know that you say that I am building your dream bench but I don't quite buy it. I am sure that this build has convinced you to do things a little differently. I'd love to hear what those are.


----------



## bhog

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Looks like you had alot of fun.I appreciate all the pics.Have you trained yourself to stop and take em?Its something I need to do more of.

As always nice work Scott.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Scott, I myself am impressed with your accuracy. You are learning along the way. I say well done!


----------



## Bertha

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Outstanding! That spill/chip shot is phenomenal.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


*Brandon* - taking pictures used to be a real pain in the arse but it is now much easier.

First, I just commandeered a hand-me-down point and shoot camera from my wife. It sits right next to the workbench. You do have to develop a habit of taking pics. Now, every step or cool vantage point gets a pic. Its fun.

Next, I finally did as Smitty recommended and signed up for photobucket. THe integrated interface removes a couple steps. Mine is 2007 model digital elph that my wife beat the crap out of.

Finally, and I find this pretty darn cool, I bought a Eye-Fi card. What convinced me to buy one was a review here on LJ's by none other than DKV.

Now, I take a pic and the Eye-Fi card sends it directly to my Photobucket account. Then when you make a post or blog entry all you have to do is select the picture from photobcuket below.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Speaking of pictures. They also reveal aspects of your work that you have missed. In the spirit of accuracy, ironically, look how far off this hole is from the intended mark. Thank goodness it is just a dog hole.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Scott - I wouldn't change much at all apart from:


Mine will only be 6ft long as that is all I have space for.
I will use round dogs exclusively. 
It will have an undercarriage as I have a need to move the bench often and turn it on the spot.
I will paint mine bright orange. )

P.S - The Yankee is wonderful.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


The pictures of you splitting the line with your saw makes me smile. In my efforts to express to others how completely awesome this site is i have used the story of your saw/sawing:
A man from North Carolina describes his issues with straying from his mark when hand sawing and has surmised that the problem may lie in the set of his saw. The guys on the site, taking into consideration the caliber of the tool, suggest that the trouble might originate in the operator and not the tool. A man in Dorset, England recommends that the fellow in NC follow his very precise instructions to see if the man can improve his sawyer abilities, and in so doing, rid himself of the straying issue. The guy in NC follows the instructions exactly and documents the fact with photos, one of the resulting pictures is of several lines deftly split. Issue solved. This most recent saw photo proves the solution is lasting.
The knowledge, skill and talent of the folks on this site and their generosity in sharing it with others is something i marvel at and am grateful for.

Speaking of talent…
Nice bench Scott. Thanks for taking the time to bring us along.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


It is pretty amazing when you put it like that Tony isn't it? LOL.


----------



## waho6o9

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Outstanding work lysdexic!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Thanks waho6o9. Thanks.

Tony - agreed. When you put it that way it really is amazing.

I know exactly what you are saying. When I want to talk to others about woodworking or something that I have learned recently it is damn near impossible NOT to reference this site and the characters within. People automatically dismiss any information that is gleaned from an internet forum. If you mention the "friends" you have made they assume you are some type of loser or pervert. Well, that stings a little :^)


----------



## terryR

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Awesome, Scott! I've been reading along when I can…looks awesome! Thanks for the lessons, too…

Nice choice on the Bad Axe saw…looks like you have the talent to deserve it!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Andy,

One thing that I would do different is put an end cap on the other slab and the central tool holder/spacer as well. Aesthetically, it would visually unify the top and would be a great visual improvement.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


My Little Man diminished swiftly from this point. I buried him today in these very shavings that he loved to lay in. He was seventeen and one lucky cat. We will miss him.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


:-(

Sorry abou that, Scott!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Well, there is always a silver lining. He was sick in that photo but he got a lot worse fast. He loved to hang out in the shop but unfortunately he couldn't keep anything down or in. Toward the end the stuff coming out of him was vile. It smelt necrotic.

The plus: I have had piles and puddles in the shop for a few weeks.

Now, off to scrub the floors.


----------



## GrandpaLen

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Scott,

I am so sorry for your loss.

I'm certain you will cherish the fond memories of your Little Man, shop cat.
I've had several 'Bench Dogs' over the years and as sad as it is to see them go, I wouldn't trade that for all the years shared, and the memories of them keeping me company late into the night in the shop.

Best Regards. - Grandpa Len.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Scott, nice chamfer bit.

Sorry to hear about your Cat, especially since he was a fellow shavings lover.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Scott you will miss him greatly. Sorry.


----------



## carguy460

lysdexic said:


> *The Bottom Shelf and some Dawg Holes*
> 
> The pace slows.
> 
> I put some maple through the jointer and planer until it was about 3/4" and 6" wide. After cross cutting to length it was time to break the skew rabbet plane. I know Smitty would have thrown the dado stack in the table saw and been done with.
> 
> Seriously, I wanted to put this plane through its paces so we can get to know one another. I needed 14 rabbets and I learned a lot. It takes a certain feel, a certain muscle memory to keep everything square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After that, the 2 end boards needed cut outs to fit around the legs. Andy, the advice about keeping your elbow tucked in by your side has helped my ability to sawing tremendously! Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now I need to put my dog holes in the top. This is a bit of a challenge to drill through 4" of maple top and keep the holes square. One could "throw" the slab back on the drill press but that ain't going to happen. You could by one of those fancy jigs to keep things straight. In the end I just took a cut off from the bench top, marked the sides square to the top and drill a 3/4" hole at the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lining up the jig with marks I drilled as deep as I could under power the removed the jig and drilled about 1/2" shy of the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I used a brace to drill down until just the screw tip was protruding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a smaller square that just fits in the hole to check for square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Of note*: I did try to drill just with hand brace but even the jig it still wallered out a bit much. *So this didn't work for me.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess a need more practice.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Tonight I broke the bench down to fine tune, break edges and get ready for the finish. Time to break out the trusty WorkMate again.


Scott - I'm very sorry to hear of the loss of your kitty. Cats are wonderful friends, and good shopmates.


----------



## lysdexic

*The Gap Stop*

Hello,

I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.




























Time to empty the bleachers.



















Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.










Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.





































Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.

A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.




























The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.





































I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.























































My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.





































Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.




























Various pictures of the final result.



























































































Thanks for following along.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Various pictures of the final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for following along.


Ahh, beautiful, heart warming progress. Very envious of the build. What type of projects are you eyeing up for after this beast is done?


----------



## waho6o9

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Various pictures of the final result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for following along.


That's some clean work Lysdexic! Thanks 
for posting your progress and congratulations on 
an outstanding work bench.


----------



## Mosquito

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
> 
> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


I like it. Nice work


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
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> Time to empty the bleachers.
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> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
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> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
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> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
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> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
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> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
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> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


Shane,

I already bought a slab walnut that I hope to fashion into a Krenov styled cabinet. It is for my wife to hold her necklaces.

Simple, understated design. 
Golden proportions

I just dont know how to do it. I dont really want to buy a plan but I dont know how to execute the joinery and hinges.

Maybe something like this where the form and grain do the talking.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
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> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
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> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


This is where I left off tonight -putting a coat of finish on the bottom of the top. I guess I will get used to the darker color but for right now I don't like it.










To Do List:

Re-bolt top right side up.
Flatten top
Finish top surface
Make dogs
Accessorize


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
> 
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> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> 
> Thanks for following along.


Will it have a base? I like his works that sit on legs with nice lines. Maybe in a contrasting wood. I am sure there is a lot of info out there on how to do those type of hinges. I have never tried them, but they are cool in their simplicity. I am sure she will like it.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


Looks good to me Scott. Send it my way if you don't like the colour.


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## BrandonW

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
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> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
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> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
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> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> 
> Thanks for following along.


Love it, Scott! You've really set the standard high with this bench.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> 
> Thanks for following along.


Wow, what's not to like there, Scott? Beautiful stuff. Nice work.


----------



## SPalm

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
> 
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> 
> Thanks for following along.


Very very nice Scott.
A true labor of love.

I like the darker color myself.
Steve


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Various pictures of the final result.
> 
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> 
> 
> Thanks for following along.


Scott, I love your attention to detail. I wish I had your patience.

Great blog once again.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
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> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
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> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
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> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
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> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> 
> Thanks for following along.


Very nice, great call on making the ends continuous with no space, I also like the cherry end cap.

The color is a little darker than expected but I think it will grow on you.

I like where you have your table saw, that's where I've been putting mine so the bench acts as an outfeed table.

The to do list is getting very short! Wont be long now.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
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> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
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> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
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> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
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> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
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> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


I'm sure the "bench as an outfeed" will work for you guys. I'd wind up knocking a handplane on the floor, and man…....profanity!!!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


^ +1 for what Don says. I keep electric tools a safe distance from my workbench for that very reason.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Various pictures of the final result.
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> 
> Thanks for following along.


My planes will be sitting below the surface in the tool tray ;-)


----------



## sb194

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
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> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


Scott, the bench look tremendous. Anybody would be envious of it. Very nice work.

Sean


----------



## GrandpaLen

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
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> Time to empty the bleachers.
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> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
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> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
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> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
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> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
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> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
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> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> 
> Thanks for following along.


Your courtship with this Bench seems to be heating up once again Scott.

We detect a quickening of your pulse.

Don't let the color of her finish detract from your feelings for her, as in any relationship there will be compromises.

I find her to be even more beautiful than your original description of her and soon you will learn to appreciate her for what she is, regardless of the flaws that you have discovered along the way.

She's a beauty and definately a keeper.

Best Wishes with your future compromises. - Grandpa Len *;-)*


----------



## bhog

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
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> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
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> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
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> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
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> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


Like Don said your patience is amazing.And your work is too.

The ridges are prob nicks in the blades.

For hinges on that caninet you could use dowels in the end grain top and bottom of the door/front with holes to match in the top and bottom or a brass scissor hinge.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
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> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


One could glean pride beaming from even the most humble man had he turned out the quality of work you have. Beautiful job.

I like your choice for your next project.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
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> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


Scott it has come such a long way. You are almost there.
I have learned a lot. Thank you for the in-depth blogs.
Well done!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
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> Time to empty the bleachers.
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> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
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> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
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> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
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> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
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> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
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> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


Grandpa Len: are you talking about my wife or the bench?

Brandon: I may consult you ( and others) further to help me with the cabinet.

Mauricio and Don: I really have no choice about using the bench as an out feed table given the space available.

Re knocking tools off the bench: was struggling planing the long boards I did get frustrated with my stop and pulled the board back to me. I forgot that my LN 4 1/2 was lying at the back end. It was a horrible sound as it crashed onto the concrete. It seems no worse for the wear however. I guess I should praise ductile iron. I hate that it happened though.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
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> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
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> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
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> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


Thank you all for the kind words. As many of you know who have posted projects and blogs before, we don't post just to receive praise. The compliments are nice but that's not it. I don't think that we are at all vain. Then why go through all this trouble? Hmmm.

The primary reason is to share. To invite you to see what is going on in my woodworking life and efforts. The hopes that someone will glean knowledge or inspiration from my efforts is what I seek. I build the bench for me but blog for the enjoyment of others.

I think of Don sharing his seemingly infinite plane restorations, Dave's cool video transitions, Steve's home made CNC machine, Smitty's Stanley tool pedigree, splayed legs, gorgeous back saws, hand tool only tables, cherry beds, etc etc etc.

I go through the trouble to blog about my journey because you guys have done the same for me.

I appreciate all of you.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
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> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


Wow now that was cool.
This is a brotherhood. 
We have kind words for one another to help us along.
There are bad days, mistakes but we learn from them.
But then we build that next piece and it all comes together.
And that is what we show our friends.
Thanks Scott.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
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> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


Amen to that Scott, I usually will only do a blog when there is something I have not been able to get enough information on. If I try something and am successful, now the information is out there for anyone who might be wanting to try the same thing. I do feel like so many people have been so generous with their knowledge that I feel compelled to give back however I can.


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## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
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> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
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> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> 
> Thanks for following along.


...and we appreciate it Mauricio.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Various pictures of the final result.
> 
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> 
> 
> Thanks for following along.


And you too sir! Group hug!


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Various pictures of the final result.
> 
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> 
> 
> Thanks for following along.


Easy tiger!


----------



## grfrazee

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Various pictures of the final result.
> 
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> 
> 
> Thanks for following along.


How do you like the gap stop? I keep fighting myself in my head whether or not I want to include one in my bench when I build it this winter.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
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> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
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> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
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> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


grfrazee,

Dunno really. Just made it. I have a couple thoughts though. If I dont like it I can tke it out but i am more inclined to just leave there flush. Otherwise, I would just fashion a solid one. Regardless, I dont like the split roubo with something in there. I dont like the look of the empty gap and it is a gapping hole for your tools to fall through. I think you need something in there.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
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> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
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> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
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> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
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> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
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> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
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> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
> 
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


Another thought. Having a tool holder in the middle of the bench is less than optimal. Tool handles sticking up in the middle will most likely get in the way.


----------



## chrisstef

lysdexic said:


> *The Gap Stop*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Time to empty the bleachers.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn't work with a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8" thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
> 
> 
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> 
> Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
> 
> A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
> 
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> 
> The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2" so a 1/2" brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
> 
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> 
> 
> I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
> 
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> 
> My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16" for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
> 
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> Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
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> Various pictures of the final result.
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> Thanks for following along.


Scott - your patience reminds me of my grandfather whom i greatly admired. Prior to doing anything he would satnd there and stare at the project for a good 15 minutes. Cigarette perched off the end of his lips. Never said a word but you could see the wheels turning. The bench is spectacular. That bench will serve you forever and probably serve someone else after youve gone.


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## lysdexic

*Dogs by Design.*

It is time to finally make the dogs. I know that this is nit picky aesthetics stuff but I was wondering if I have to use the long 6 5/8" dogs from the plans. Reason being is the when they are all inserted and in place it kind of looks like the bench grew teeth. Like this….










This is not a huge deal but I thought I'd do some experimentation (not the kind Al does, mind you). I went ahead and made the regular one and a 5 1/4" modified one out of some scrap.




























Here is how far they protrude from the bottom…....










With the longer spring board the long dog has a smoother action. However, the main thing I noticed is that the shorter one rocks back out perpendicular fairly quickly has you raise the dog. Where as the longer dog has a greater functional range in respect to the face staying perpendicular to bench surface.



















So lets take a measurement.

THe short dog rocks back at less than 2" of rise.










The long dog can extend up about 3 1/2" inches before it starts rocking back.










The primary reason is a factor of when the "spring bevel" engages the front wall. I put the dogs in to the router jig for illustration. Note the jig orientation is backwards.



















Regardless, the dog hole that is accessed through the right front leg will have to be long.









------------------------------------------------------------

So, if you are one that thinks the 2 degree inclination of a dog face is important, then that geometry is retained through a greater range of elevation using a long dog.

Duh.


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## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Dogs by Design.*
> 
> It is time to finally make the dogs. I know that this is nit picky aesthetics stuff but I was wondering if I have to use the long 6 5/8" dogs from the plans. Reason being is the when they are all inserted and in place it kind of looks like the bench grew teeth. Like this….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not a huge deal but I thought I'd do some experimentation (not the kind Al does, mind you). I went ahead and made the regular one and a 5 1/4" modified one out of some scrap.
> 
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> Here is how far they protrude from the bottom…....
> 
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> 
> 
> With the longer spring board the long dog has a smoother action. However, the main thing I noticed is that the shorter one rocks back out perpendicular fairly quickly has you raise the dog. Where as the longer dog has a greater functional range in respect to the face staying perpendicular to bench surface.
> 
> 
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> 
> So lets take a measurement.
> 
> THe short dog rocks back at less than 2" of rise.
> 
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> The long dog can extend up about 3 1/2" inches before it starts rocking back.
> 
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> 
> 
> The primary reason is a factor of when the "spring bevel" engages the front wall. I put the dogs in to the router jig for illustration. Note the jig orientation is backwards.
> 
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> Regardless, the dog hole that is accessed through the right front leg will have to be long.
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, if you are one that thinks the 2 degree inclination of a dog face is important, then that geometry is retained through a greater range of elevation using a long dog.
> 
> Duh.


Nice job Scott. I've never seen anybody make enough dogs to fill every hole. It sound like you may need a drawer under there to hold them to get rid of the teeth look.

You'll also find with the dogs filling the hole, it'll trap dust. (unless its kept perfectly flush) Maybe that's what you want rather than have it fall through?

The bench looks amazing, even with the teeth!!


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## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Dogs by Design.*
> 
> It is time to finally make the dogs. I know that this is nit picky aesthetics stuff but I was wondering if I have to use the long 6 5/8" dogs from the plans. Reason being is the when they are all inserted and in place it kind of looks like the bench grew teeth. Like this….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not a huge deal but I thought I'd do some experimentation (not the kind Al does, mind you). I went ahead and made the regular one and a 5 1/4" modified one out of some scrap.
> 
> 
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> 
> Here is how far they protrude from the bottom…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the longer spring board the long dog has a smoother action. However, the main thing I noticed is that the shorter one rocks back out perpendicular fairly quickly has you raise the dog. Where as the longer dog has a greater functional range in respect to the face staying perpendicular to bench surface.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> So lets take a measurement.
> 
> THe short dog rocks back at less than 2" of rise.
> 
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> 
> The long dog can extend up about 3 1/2" inches before it starts rocking back.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> The primary reason is a factor of when the "spring bevel" engages the front wall. I put the dogs in to the router jig for illustration. Note the jig orientation is backwards.
> 
> 
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> Regardless, the dog hole that is accessed through the right front leg will have to be long.
> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, if you are one that thinks the 2 degree inclination of a dog face is important, then that geometry is retained through a greater range of elevation using a long dog.
> 
> Duh.


Yeh, Smitty recommended not filling all the holes. You are now the second. I think I'll just make a few to use up scraps that I have and be done with it.

One the ones I do make I am going to carve a panther heads in them. :^)


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## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Dogs by Design.*
> 
> It is time to finally make the dogs. I know that this is nit picky aesthetics stuff but I was wondering if I have to use the long 6 5/8" dogs from the plans. Reason being is the when they are all inserted and in place it kind of looks like the bench grew teeth. Like this….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not a huge deal but I thought I'd do some experimentation (not the kind Al does, mind you). I went ahead and made the regular one and a 5 1/4" modified one out of some scrap.
> 
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> Here is how far they protrude from the bottom…....
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> With the longer spring board the long dog has a smoother action. However, the main thing I noticed is that the shorter one rocks back out perpendicular fairly quickly has you raise the dog. Where as the longer dog has a greater functional range in respect to the face staying perpendicular to bench surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> So lets take a measurement.
> 
> THe short dog rocks back at less than 2" of rise.
> 
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> 
> The long dog can extend up about 3 1/2" inches before it starts rocking back.
> 
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> 
> 
> The primary reason is a factor of when the "spring bevel" engages the front wall. I put the dogs in to the router jig for illustration. Note the jig orientation is backwards.
> 
> 
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> 
> Regardless, the dog hole that is accessed through the right front leg will have to be long.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, if you are one that thinks the 2 degree inclination of a dog face is important, then that geometry is retained through a greater range of elevation using a long dog.
> 
> Duh.


well, I'm not sure it was a recommendation, more of an observation. You can NEVER have to many dogs. I just wouldn't keep them in the holes. Again, see which way works for you. I've found dog not used in holes traps chips. Some of the chips will inadvertently stick above the bench and scratch things.

You work a lot cleaner than me, so you may not have such a problem.


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## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Dogs by Design.*
> 
> It is time to finally make the dogs. I know that this is nit picky aesthetics stuff but I was wondering if I have to use the long 6 5/8" dogs from the plans. Reason being is the when they are all inserted and in place it kind of looks like the bench grew teeth. Like this….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not a huge deal but I thought I'd do some experimentation (not the kind Al does, mind you). I went ahead and made the regular one and a 5 1/4" modified one out of some scrap.
> 
> 
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> Here is how far they protrude from the bottom…....
> 
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> 
> 
> With the longer spring board the long dog has a smoother action. However, the main thing I noticed is that the shorter one rocks back out perpendicular fairly quickly has you raise the dog. Where as the longer dog has a greater functional range in respect to the face staying perpendicular to bench surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So lets take a measurement.
> 
> THe short dog rocks back at less than 2" of rise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The long dog can extend up about 3 1/2" inches before it starts rocking back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The primary reason is a factor of when the "spring bevel" engages the front wall. I put the dogs in to the router jig for illustration. Note the jig orientation is backwards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless, the dog hole that is accessed through the right front leg will have to be long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, if you are one that thinks the 2 degree inclination of a dog face is important, then that geometry is retained through a greater range of elevation using a long dog.
> 
> Duh.


A guy could learn something here. Keep the progress coming. I do admire your attention to detail, and reflective shine coming off the TS.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Dogs by Design.*
> 
> It is time to finally make the dogs. I know that this is nit picky aesthetics stuff but I was wondering if I have to use the long 6 5/8" dogs from the plans. Reason being is the when they are all inserted and in place it kind of looks like the bench grew teeth. Like this….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not a huge deal but I thought I'd do some experimentation (not the kind Al does, mind you). I went ahead and made the regular one and a 5 1/4" modified one out of some scrap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how far they protrude from the bottom…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the longer spring board the long dog has a smoother action. However, the main thing I noticed is that the shorter one rocks back out perpendicular fairly quickly has you raise the dog. Where as the longer dog has a greater functional range in respect to the face staying perpendicular to bench surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So lets take a measurement.
> 
> THe short dog rocks back at less than 2" of rise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The long dog can extend up about 3 1/2" inches before it starts rocking back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The primary reason is a factor of when the "spring bevel" engages the front wall. I put the dogs in to the router jig for illustration. Note the jig orientation is backwards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless, the dog hole that is accessed through the right front leg will have to be long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, if you are one that thinks the 2 degree inclination of a dog face is important, then that geometry is retained through a greater range of elevation using a long dog.
> 
> Duh.


That's not my shop Shane. I am not that bad, I don't think.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Dogs by Design.*
> 
> It is time to finally make the dogs. I know that this is nit picky aesthetics stuff but I was wondering if I have to use the long 6 5/8" dogs from the plans. Reason being is the when they are all inserted and in place it kind of looks like the bench grew teeth. Like this….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not a huge deal but I thought I'd do some experimentation (not the kind Al does, mind you). I went ahead and made the regular one and a 5 1/4" modified one out of some scrap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how far they protrude from the bottom…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the longer spring board the long dog has a smoother action. However, the main thing I noticed is that the shorter one rocks back out perpendicular fairly quickly has you raise the dog. Where as the longer dog has a greater functional range in respect to the face staying perpendicular to bench surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So lets take a measurement.
> 
> THe short dog rocks back at less than 2" of rise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The long dog can extend up about 3 1/2" inches before it starts rocking back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The primary reason is a factor of when the "spring bevel" engages the front wall. I put the dogs in to the router jig for illustration. Note the jig orientation is backwards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless, the dog hole that is accessed through the right front leg will have to be long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, if you are one that thinks the 2 degree inclination of a dog face is important, then that geometry is retained through a greater range of elevation using a long dog.
> 
> Duh.


LOL, I know you have a SS, and the hardware looks like yours. I am easily confused.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Dogs by Design.*
> 
> It is time to finally make the dogs. I know that this is nit picky aesthetics stuff but I was wondering if I have to use the long 6 5/8" dogs from the plans. Reason being is the when they are all inserted and in place it kind of looks like the bench grew teeth. Like this….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not a huge deal but I thought I'd do some experimentation (not the kind Al does, mind you). I went ahead and made the regular one and a 5 1/4" modified one out of some scrap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how far they protrude from the bottom…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the longer spring board the long dog has a smoother action. However, the main thing I noticed is that the shorter one rocks back out perpendicular fairly quickly has you raise the dog. Where as the longer dog has a greater functional range in respect to the face staying perpendicular to bench surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So lets take a measurement.
> 
> THe short dog rocks back at less than 2" of rise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The long dog can extend up about 3 1/2" inches before it starts rocking back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The primary reason is a factor of when the "spring bevel" engages the front wall. I put the dogs in to the router jig for illustration. Note the jig orientation is backwards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless, the dog hole that is accessed through the right front leg will have to be long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, if you are one that thinks the 2 degree inclination of a dog face is important, then that geometry is retained through a greater range of elevation using a long dog.
> 
> Duh.


Nice dogs Scott, I would just go with two dogs to avoid the teethy look, those square dogs are so effortless to move its not that big of an issue. Round dogs that are friction fit are more of a pain to deal with.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Dogs by Design.*
> 
> It is time to finally make the dogs. I know that this is nit picky aesthetics stuff but I was wondering if I have to use the long 6 5/8" dogs from the plans. Reason being is the when they are all inserted and in place it kind of looks like the bench grew teeth. Like this….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not a huge deal but I thought I'd do some experimentation (not the kind Al does, mind you). I went ahead and made the regular one and a 5 1/4" modified one out of some scrap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how far they protrude from the bottom…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the longer spring board the long dog has a smoother action. However, the main thing I noticed is that the shorter one rocks back out perpendicular fairly quickly has you raise the dog. Where as the longer dog has a greater functional range in respect to the face staying perpendicular to bench surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So lets take a measurement.
> 
> THe short dog rocks back at less than 2" of rise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The long dog can extend up about 3 1/2" inches before it starts rocking back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The primary reason is a factor of when the "spring bevel" engages the front wall. I put the dogs in to the router jig for illustration. Note the jig orientation is backwards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless, the dog hole that is accessed through the right front leg will have to be long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, if you are one that thinks the 2 degree inclination of a dog face is important, then that geometry is retained through a greater range of elevation using a long dog.
> 
> Duh.


Nice comparison Scott and a great photo blog for anyone who's thinking of making a split-top.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *Dogs by Design.*
> 
> It is time to finally make the dogs. I know that this is nit picky aesthetics stuff but I was wondering if I have to use the long 6 5/8" dogs from the plans. Reason being is the when they are all inserted and in place it kind of looks like the bench grew teeth. Like this….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not a huge deal but I thought I'd do some experimentation (not the kind Al does, mind you). I went ahead and made the regular one and a 5 1/4" modified one out of some scrap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how far they protrude from the bottom…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the longer spring board the long dog has a smoother action. However, the main thing I noticed is that the shorter one rocks back out perpendicular fairly quickly has you raise the dog. Where as the longer dog has a greater functional range in respect to the face staying perpendicular to bench surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So lets take a measurement.
> 
> THe short dog rocks back at less than 2" of rise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The long dog can extend up about 3 1/2" inches before it starts rocking back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The primary reason is a factor of when the "spring bevel" engages the front wall. I put the dogs in to the router jig for illustration. Note the jig orientation is backwards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless, the dog hole that is accessed through the right front leg will have to be long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> So, if you are one that thinks the 2 degree inclination of a dog face is important, then that geometry is retained through a greater range of elevation using a long dog.
> 
> Duh.


your attention to detail is to be commended.
I like shorter dogs.
Thats why I own a dachshund.


----------



## lysdexic

*Flattening and finishing*

What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.

I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.



















This was the time to do a little fine tuning





































I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..









Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.























































Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.

--------------------------------------------------------

Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.

I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.





































I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.










Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:

Take your time make thin shavings
Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
Use a raking light and check your work.
Mark your high or low spots
Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot




























Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
































































--------------------------------------------------------

This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Well done Scott. It's too late to think of anything witty. That is one magnificent bench.
Jim


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


I am speechless. It is soooo sweet. Definitely envious. You have done a marvelous job sir.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Wow. You've created an incredible shop partner, Scott! Well done, congrats, etc. I'm particularly impressed that you used the Force and planed it flat vs. using electric tools. Truly a heirloom piece.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Great 'how to' Scott. Thanks.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Thanks Andy. THe caliper measurements are just for ********************s and giggles.

Smitty, you know, flattening the bench top took a little gumption. I just knew that I would end up chasing my tail, make a disaster of the whole thing, and end up doing the router jig as a bail out.

No kidding, as I took my first few swipes with the #7, I thought to myself "Ok, Smitty thinks I can do this."


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Joseord, thank God somebody finally understands me. Your spam couldn't have been more on time and on target.


----------



## BrandonW

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Scott, your bench is a paragon of excellence; I've run out of words to describe it because you keep posting pictures of it. Great work. Good info on the colon stuff too, Joseord.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
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> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


I really do think you can, believe you did, and consider the results exceptional.


----------



## thedude50

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
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> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
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> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
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> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
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> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


it is a good thing when self doubt gives way to trial and ends in self confidence . You did a great job I knew you could do it and I am proud of your work and of your efforts. this reminds me of a book I am reading because of Roy Underhill . The book is about a school in Scandinavia and a teaching method that brings confidence and character through woodworking it is the teachers guide to sloyd you cold read it if you like but you remind me of the book


----------



## ITnerd

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Epic and Stunning. Andre would be proud to see the blood, sweat and tears you put into that bench.


----------



## SPalm

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Absolutely gorgeous.
Well done Sir.

Steve


----------



## Mosquito

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Very nice! Finish is looking great!


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


I knew you could do it Scott! Looks great and I think the top came out great. Nice color and character.


----------



## GrandpaLen

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Scott,

That is indeed a handsome bench, an extension of your perseverating.

Nicely executed, fine fit and finish.

Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her trees.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Grandpa Len


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Just spectacular Scott.

Did you run into any issues with spelching while flattening the top?


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Spelching? No, I chamfered the end grain to prevent that. However, I did get some of tear out on the top. If it was something other that a bench top I'd be pulling my hairs out.

Moral if the story: take heed of grain direction during glue-ups. I thought that i had but maybe not close enough. Also, this maple has a lot of curl, figure, knots, and grain reversal.

No matter though - on a bench top.


----------



## BTimmons

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Almost too nice to work on!


----------



## chrisstef

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Official movement over here Scott. Dead sexy bench, ultimately functional, superemly well constructed, and a painful eye to detail my friend. A blue point toast is certainly in order.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


superb. Absolutely superb!


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


How many times did you have to sharpen the iron during the process?


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


great question Tony. I put a fresh edge on my #7 before I started. I then used it for about 2 hours straight. I did not sharpen it again but will admit that, torwards the end of the job, the iron could use a honing.

If I had taken the time to hone the iron I probably, no definitely, would have gotten less tear out. My rationalization: it was 1 AM and a bench top.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Heh, that is where i was going with that. Thanks Scott.

And thank you again for taking the time to document your build. I have learned a lot from you and it was a blast seeing it come together. Congratulations on its completion.


----------



## bhog

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Awesome Scott.After you have used it for awhile a little tearout wont be noticeable.The contrast will be awesome in a year or so when the cherry starts to deepen.Be proud of the mountain you climed.

Bro a 48" starret straight edge? Youre spoiled….


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


How can I be spoiled if I am grateful for what I have?


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
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> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


WOW holy cow, she is a beaut. Great work, impress skills and a wonderful bench.
The finish is spot on.

Can I borrow it for a test run?


----------



## dontrushme

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
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> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Beautiful piece of work.
I do have one question: are you going to display it or use it- LOL :>)


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Oh, I am going to use it. I do not expect it to ever look this way again :^)

SuperDave: you are more than welcome to give it a test run. I-20 to I-85 to I-77 and there you are.

I do struggle with the finish on the top. I'd like to build a nice durable finish but, at the same time, you don't want it to be slick. Obviously, I want the bench to grip my work.

I don't yet know how to reconcile these to goals. My guess and plan is to build a nice film finish and work my way to textured surface.

Suggestions?


----------



## bhog

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Im not sure if youre joking or not about the bench gripping your work so here goes.

1st thought was those mats you can buy to line your tool boxes with.The ones with the little square holes do a decent job.

2nd thought finish related- I was talking to a hardwood flooring re-finisher last week and he was telling me that they use an additive sometimes to add grip into their finish for on stairs etc.He told me the stuff was really awesome ( helps socks grip)and is super durable.I dunno how it work on a bench though.I imagine it being like a super fine sand paper. I cannot remember what he called it.If youre serious maybe give your local flooring dude a call.

You could always harvest a bunch of tree frog sticky ma thingys and go that route.Just spritz with a lil water and your good to go.


----------



## CL810

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Thanks for a great blog.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


You are welcome but I am not done yet. I have one more to post.

Thanks for the thanks.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


How slick did your bench end up?

bhog's idea about the varnish additive that makes it grippy is pretty interesting. I'd be interested to know more about that. I bet it would double as a strop!


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


most of those additives are really fine sand so your probably right.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


It is pretty slick Maur abd it sure is purdy. I don't know how to quantify for you other than tell how a finished the top. It did it the same way I "always" have. I have about 6-8 coats of a wipe-on SATIN poly. I used a 400 grit paper between coats.

I am enjoying the prettiness for now but it wont last long. Nor do I want it to. If the slickness persists despite use I would have little hesistation to hit the top lightly with a 100 or so grit.

Thoughts?

Be careful of what Bhog tells you. He recently told me that I didn't need to get my wife anything for her birthday if she didn't ask for anyhting specifically. Yea, that went over just great. Thanks Brandon.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


I thought I already warned you about bhog!!

Try a thin coat of BLO over the top. It will leave a little "stickyness"


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Dow has one. 
http://www.dowcorning.com/content/publishedlit/26-1647-01.pdf


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Try a thin coat of BLO over the top. It will leave a little "stickyness"

Really? I wouldn't have thunk. You are quite the resource.


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


We use a couple different additives in paint mostly to create a non slip surface in the boats, but I would not want any one of then on a bench top. They really are quite abrasive, and would end up scratching something up pretty badly. Having said that, if anyone wants to experiment send me a PM and I'll ship out a sample, I have more than I'll ever use.
Jim


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


well I said try it.

After all, if you would believe you didn't need to buy your wife a birthday present because Brandon said so, you'd fall for almost anything.

It'll work, trust me.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Jim, arent there different grit sizes you could use as an additives? Someone a while back posted a pic where he used a piece of prefinished flooring as a strop since it had very fine abrasives in it.


----------



## waho6o9

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Most excellent work bench ScottyB!

Congratulations on a fine build and thanks for blogging
your great work.


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Yes there are different sizes. I think I have two. None would I concider fine enough to be thought of as strop territory.
Jim


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Thanks Waho.

Mauricio, are you seriously considering applying an additive for grippiness or is this just healthy curiosity?


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


I dont know, just kicking the idea around.

Scott, did you really put 6-8 coats on your top? That sounds like a lot.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


He's trying to get the thickness up to 4 1/4" because it seems like a nice round number.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Mauricio - yes I did and yes it is a lot. However, in my defense its was poly dilated 2-3:1, so the coats were "just wafer thin."

But the real reason is that I, and most peoplehave to go through that rubbing and loving stage. I just couldn't keep my hands off it. Now that is over.

BTW - what is the harm. Now if I followed that with 6-8 coats of wax then that would counter-productive. Not that I would do that. :^)


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


I bet it looks pretty sweet. I wonder what it would look like if you scuffed it with some 220. Is there anything you could put on it that would make it not look all scratched up? Wax won't work for obvious reasons. What if you scuffed it with sand paper and then put some BLO on top of that?

Adding grit to some varnish would work, I've got some stuff for the kids rock tumbler that might work. The only problem is that whenever you go to flatten it again it will dull your plane irons pretty quickly.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


I'd just use it.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Right.

Maur, I am not trying to be a smart ass but my current plan is exactly as Don states. Those layers of finish will be gone soon enough. If it needs a scuff or two so be it.

But I progressed through my obligatory rubin' and lovin' stage. :^)


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


the rubin' and lovin' gets better with age.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Maur, given the conversation, how are you planning to finish your bench?


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Im thinking of doing the same thing you did but with fewer coats on the top. Maybe just 2 coats?


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Just my opinion, but if its poly (of any kind) Its 3 coats or none.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


Hmm, what if your sanding them in? I want to fill the grain a little (red oak). We'll see, I'll play it by ear.


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


still 3. Coat, sand, coat, sand, coat. Done then wax. You always wax a bench unless you never ever plan on gluing on it.

Still just my opinion.

Edit: and I did say at least 3. More is good, but not always necessarily. If you're like me (and you're probably not) it takes at least 2 just to get full coverage..


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Flattening and finishing*
> 
> What can I say about about the finish other than the thought process. We have discussed an appropriate finish for a work bench ad nauseum. I chose a wipe on poly primarily because it would prevent ring stains from my beer bottles. nuf said.
> 
> I did deconstruct the bench so that the under carriage is at a workable height. Time to break out the Workmates again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the time to do a little fine tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was strongly influenced by the suggestions here on LJ's thus I did some test pieces of a oil vs. water borne poly…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fnally, slopping on some finish. I did what I know. 3:2:1 wet sanded with 400 grit. This, followed by several coats of 2:1 mineral spirits: poly. I did smooth thangs out with an in between coats 800 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the under carriage was finished, I reconstructed the bench. Now I tightened on the top using Spax screws to get it to its semi-permanent position.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Now it time o flatten the top. I have perseverating (yes, it is a word) over this for weeks. Router sled or Jointer plane. Machine or Hand.
> 
> I really couldn't decide. Then one evening, after a few NB Rangers, I thought that i would just thought I set up a raking light and discover the high spots. Survey the land so to speak. Well, I did so and use the technique of marking the spots where the top touched the straight edge. This is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also tuned up my winding sticks as they had "moved" since their construction. Thanks to BHOG for calling me out on this. I didn't taking any pics of the winding sticks because I couldn't figure out how to wink with the camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for flattening. I had seen this documented several places but the pearls are:
> 
> Take your time make thin shavings
> Trust the flatness of the sole of your plane
> Use a raking light and check your work.
> Mark your high or low spots
> Go diagonal ///// then go the opposite direction \\\\\\\\ the go down the length --
> Do this methodically, check your work until you have eliminated to lowest spot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally i pared all the internal hollows with a chisel, re-established my chamfers, and re-counter sunk the dog holes. The square dog hole corners were "broken" with a rasp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> 
> This is where I am now. The top has 2 coats of wipe on poly. I didn't use Tung oil because I want to diminish any darkening.


In reference to another thread Don. I was on call lst night and have had a similar day. Thus, when I get home I will have a New Belgium Ranger for ya.


----------



## lysdexic

*Workbench Bling Yo*

Every bench needs some bling. Check this.

It is all in the way we accessorize.

--------------------------------------------------------------

I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.

This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.





































Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.





































------------------------------------------------------------------

My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.

They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.










I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.




























------------------------------------------------------------

I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.

Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.

Making the bracket….....










Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.




























---------------------------------------------------------

The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.





































-------------------------------------------------------

Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.


To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.

I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.










Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................










The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!

Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.





































The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......










-----------------------------------------------------

While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.




























---------------------------------------------------

A sticker on the wagon vise…...










and one on the chop.










--------------------------------------------------

And with that - this bench is complete.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


Glue leather to the face of the round of the #203 as well; it helps prevent marks on what's being held.

Beautiful stuff, Lysdexic!


----------



## sb194

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


I am jealous. That is all I can say. The bench turned out great and will last for generations.

Excellant work.

Sean


----------



## GrandpaLen

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


Scott,

First I'd like to say your Craftsmanship on the Bench is superb.

Next I'll have to say how much I've enjoyed the Tutorial Blog and your strength of character in sharing your errors, but more so how you overcame them. 
You have shown us that it's not how badly we err, it's how well we can recover and every mistake doesn't necessarily end up as firewood.

Your bench is a 'benchmark' in your "Projects Gallery" to be proud of, for sure.

Thanks for taking us through your build and the extra effort of putting together such an intricate Blog, it's been inspirational.

I beleive 'Mother Nature' should be Proud of what you have done with her Trees.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Grandpa Len.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


Yeah Scott, thanks for the efforts and guts to share. Obviously, it looks amazing. I was wondering what you meant when you previously mentioned stickers, I was fearful of something else….but now I get it. You have done a great job, you should be proud, and confident to tackle the next build knowing you have a great bench to help you on your way. Bravo!


----------



## Boatman53

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


Thanks for doing all the posting and documenting (the good and the bad). You have one great bench there and much better than you can buy. You will enjoy it every day.
Jim


----------



## Mosquito

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


It all looks so great! Those casters are almost exactly what I had in mind for my bench, except I was going to use those style hinges, and a board, because I don't have access to a welder lol

Bet it feels great to have it done. Can't wait to see it in use!


----------



## JGM0658

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
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> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
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> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


I hate to break it to you, but this seems to me a better option and you could have kept your 3/4 inch holes. In any case, good job on the dead man.


----------



## Brit

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


I'm working today, but when I saw there was a Scoty B Yo bench update, I dropped everything. Not sure I would have done that to the deadman if it was my bench, but I like the rest of what you've done. The absence of this great blog will leave a gaping hole in the blogesphere that will be difficult to fill. Thanks Scott for taking us on the journey.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


Well, I didn't realize that I was ruining my deadman. Smitty told me that if I used the vintage #203 everybody would like me. He said that I would finally be one of the guys.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


That is why you have guts…you went for it. Put it out there for all to see/comment on. It was a brave move. I am glad you did it. I know I couldn't. If you don't like how it looks/works. You can adapt it later. No harm.


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


----------



## mochoa

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


•Scott you should patent your hinged caster idea.
•How does the vise grip with leather on only one side? 
•The color of the bench top really looks awesome, I really like it. 
•I like how you didn't skimp on any details before calling it done. I would have left a bunch of stuff to finish later. The leather on the holdfasts look great. I have to do that one.

It all looks amazing and I can just imagine the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment you must feel. At the same time I bet your just a little sad that that journey is over. It's like, "now what", "what can top that sense of accomplishment". But now you can enjoy using it and having the perfect clamping solution to any hand or power tool operation.

This bench will be a source of awe for centuries to come. Hopefully it never ends up in some yuppies house as a sofa console. If it does, may Al's ghost come back and throat punch that yuppie. ;-)

Congratulations!


----------



## donwilwol

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


I'm with you on the dead man Scott. I've been looking for a 203 for a while. Nice job on everything. I like your dogs to.


----------



## JGM0658

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


He said that I would finally be one of the guys.

You haven't been one of the guys, you have been THE guy after you built this bench so well… 

I think Smitty was jealous and thought of a way to have you mess up something in your bench… ;-)


----------



## bhog

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


Awesome Scott.Now go make some crap and get to know it…. LOL.


----------



## AnthonyReed

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


Phenomenal, your work is just phenomenal.

To echo the others, thank you for taking the time to document your work. It's been informative and inspiring watching what you have turned that original stack of lumber into.

You've really set the bar Scott.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


It's beautiful! (Don't listen to Jorge…). . Although those little Veritas clamps he linked to are fascinating. Likely a fine substitue for #203s given thier (lack of) availability.


----------



## chrisstef

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


ScottyB - The OG. Original Gangsta. Knocked this one clean outta the park pimpin your ride like you did. Its definately time to take her out around the block.


----------



## superdav721

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


Just how much is a bejeezus? That probably falls in the "holy crap, thats heavy". 
The mods and bench are looking great. Every step you take make it a little bit better.
I am impressed!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


I took 779 photos for this build/blog. Crazy.


----------



## ShaneA

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


LOL….Are there more bench photos than family photos? If more bench pics, you better not let Mrs Scotty B Yo know!


----------



## GFactor

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


I realize I am VERY late to the party, and many others have said it better, but Thank You for taking the time to document and share this project. There is no doubt the bench will be enjoyed by you and others in person for many, many years to come. However, thanks to you, woodworkers for generations will also be able to enjoy it on LJ's!!

Its obviously impressive when guys like Marc build stuff like this, but when someone who makes saw dust for pleasure, and has many of the same thoughts & concerns as I do, (not to mention over thinking / slight OCD in a good way  it really does provide inspiration to just go for it. For that, I thank you.

Cheers!


----------



## lysdexic

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


GFactor

Thanks for the kind words. I am still very happy with the bench. Here are a couple things that I'd do different:

No poly on the top surface
I find the tool storage strip down the middle somewhat useless. I solid strip or solid slab would be better
I'd do the BenchCrafted criss-cross now
Full width end caps would visually solidify the top

That's about it.


----------



## Dreban

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
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> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
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> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
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> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
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> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
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> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
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> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
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> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
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> and one on the chop.
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> --------------------------------------------------
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> And with that - this bench is complete.


I followed a Pinterest link to this blog for the sole purpose of finding out where I could find those flip down casters!!! And turns out they are homemade! Killing me! Haha. I'm about done designing my 9' long, 32" wide beast with a 4" thick top and drawers underneath and it HAS to be mobile but it also HAS to be able to set on the floor. Your flip down casters would have been such an easy fix! I have another way I found used on a welding assembly table but it involves 2' tandem scissor jacks on each end pushing casters down on the floor, rising the table up. More complicated and expensive that way and also adds extra work for me. Maybe I can find someone to fabricate some like yours for me!

Love the blog. Spectacular work. I look forward to taking some time to go through the entire 25 parts.


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## Dreban

lysdexic said:


> *Workbench Bling Yo*
> 
> Every bench needs some bling. Check this.
> 
> It is all in the way we accessorize.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I have used a holdfast in my deadman and it works OK but I wanted a more controlled clamping mechanism. Thus, inspired by Smitty, I bought a Stanley #203 from Patrick Leach. THis requires some modifications to the deadman. First, the #203 requires a 1" hole where mine were 3/4". Also, the depth of the hook is 7/8" where as my deadman is 1 1/2" thick.
> 
> This makes me nervous. Re-drilling a row of holes.
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> Routing the back. Note that my first pass was to deep and I had to "repair" it by gluing in a 1/8" shim.
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> My bench weighs exactly a bejeezus load. I have a small shop and WILL need to move it from time to time. Thus, I gots me some rimz. My neighbor does metal fabrication and he made these brackets from a sketch. The casters are from Lowe's.
> 
> They ended up being a bit too big so I sawed them down with a hacksaw, beveled off the sharp corners and drilled a new hole.
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> I did a test fit and run on my sacrificial, pine, leg mock-up.
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> 
> I really like Derek Cohen's idea of using a guide bracket to dampen the play in parallel guide. It also limits racking. However, it is not a perfect fit and allows about 1/16" of play.
> 
> Before when you spin the hand wheel bringing the chop rapidly in or out the chop gave that clunck, clunck, clunck as the inertia of your hand shakes the chop back and forth. That is eliminated. It is a small thing but results in a much smoother operation.
> 
> Making the bracket….....
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> Employed the technique used through out the rest of the bench. Drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" -20 hex head screw.
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> 
> The plan calls for leather on the chop and the corresponding face of the bench top. However, in my semi-military mind, this compromises this clamping plane of the leg and benchtop the we have worked so hard to achieve. Thus, I put suede only on the chop using spray adhesive.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Back to the dogs. I decided to make the longer dogs as per the plan. They just work better than the short dog.
> 
> 
> To the galoots out there. If I can avoid pulling out, hooking up, and setting up my jointer, planer, and chop saw I will.
> 
> I had a scrap wide enough to get dogs out of each piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milled to thickness with a jack and smoother…................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prototype dog was traced out and I let the dogs out using the band saw. A little finish, brass screws and leather. Bling yo!
> 
> Note to self: an impact wrench will rip the head off a brace screw - illustrated for remembrance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final fit of the dog in the bench top…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> While I am at it, I decided to trick out the holdfasts. I used two pieces of cardboard to form a "templet" to conform to the contour of the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> 
> A sticker on the wagon vise…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one on the chop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> 
> And with that - this bench is complete.


I meant 2, tandem scissor jacks, not 2' jacks…



> I followed a Pinterest link to this blog for the sole purpose of finding out where I could find those flip down casters!!! And turns out they are homemade! Killing me! Haha. I m about done designing my 9 long, 32" wide beast with a 4" thick top and drawers underneath and it HAS to be mobile but it also HAS to be able to set on the floor. Your flip down casters would have been such an easy fix! I have another way I found used on a welding assembly table but it involves 2 tandem scissor jacks on each end pushing casters down on the floor, rising the table up. More complicated and expensive that way and also adds extra work for me. Maybe I can find someone to fabricate some like yours for me!
> 
> Love the blog. Spectacular work. I look forward to taking some time to go through the entire 25 parts.
> 
> - Dreban


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