# My woodworing ideas and tips



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*What to do, what to do*

OK you guys know by now that I am having to limit my woodworking to small hand tool stuff, if that. That's going to drive me nuts! I've thought that I would start doing some of my needle work with the idea of incorporating them into boxes, or other woodworking projects in the future when I'm feeling better. Tonight, being Friday, I thought it would be as good time as any to bring out the thread and material and get started. Then….. I went past my little bedroom shop and realized this is going to be harder than I thought. I can't just close the door because that's the bedroom with the cats' favorite "peering out on the world" window. I think the cats own more of this house than the bank does, and certainly more than I do!

I'm not sure exactly what I am going to do. But I thought I'd start this little blog to keep at least my head into the woodworking world. I thought I would just put some general musings and thoughts and maybe some good tips or two that I find along the way of web surfing.

So while I may get the thread and needle moving I'm planning to pepper you with stuff that I learn by reading books and surfing the net. Perhaps I can help with that one tip that makes your project go a little easier. Nothing earth shattering I'm sure, but it will keep me in the woodworking universe. So get ready Lumberjocks--


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *What to do, what to do*
> 
> OK you guys know by now that I am having to limit my woodworking to small hand tool stuff, if that. That's going to drive me nuts! I've thought that I would start doing some of my needle work with the idea of incorporating them into boxes, or other woodworking projects in the future when I'm feeling better. Tonight, being Friday, I thought it would be as good time as any to bring out the thread and material and get started. Then….. I went past my little bedroom shop and realized this is going to be harder than I thought. I can't just close the door because that's the bedroom with the cats' favorite "peering out on the world" window. I think the cats own more of this house than the bank does, and certainly more than I do!
> 
> ...


Bring it on, Betsy!!!

Lew


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *What to do, what to do*
> 
> OK you guys know by now that I am having to limit my woodworking to small hand tool stuff, if that. That's going to drive me nuts! I've thought that I would start doing some of my needle work with the idea of incorporating them into boxes, or other woodworking projects in the future when I'm feeling better. Tonight, being Friday, I thought it would be as good time as any to bring out the thread and material and get started. Then….. I went past my little bedroom shop and realized this is going to be harder than I thought. I can't just close the door because that's the bedroom with the cats' favorite "peering out on the world" window. I think the cats own more of this house than the bank does, and certainly more than I do!
> 
> ...


I can't wait to see what you dig up.


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *What to do, what to do*
> 
> OK you guys know by now that I am having to limit my woodworking to small hand tool stuff, if that. That's going to drive me nuts! I've thought that I would start doing some of my needle work with the idea of incorporating them into boxes, or other woodworking projects in the future when I'm feeling better. Tonight, being Friday, I thought it would be as good time as any to bring out the thread and material and get started. Then….. I went past my little bedroom shop and realized this is going to be harder than I thought. I can't just close the door because that's the bedroom with the cats' favorite "peering out on the world" window. I think the cats own more of this house than the bank does, and certainly more than I do!
> 
> ...


Can't wait Betsy, let it rip.


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## darryl (Jul 22, 2006)

Betsy said:


> *What to do, what to do*
> 
> OK you guys know by now that I am having to limit my woodworking to small hand tool stuff, if that. That's going to drive me nuts! I've thought that I would start doing some of my needle work with the idea of incorporating them into boxes, or other woodworking projects in the future when I'm feeling better. Tonight, being Friday, I thought it would be as good time as any to bring out the thread and material and get started. Then….. I went past my little bedroom shop and realized this is going to be harder than I thought. I can't just close the door because that's the bedroom with the cats' favorite "peering out on the world" window. I think the cats own more of this house than the bank does, and certainly more than I do!
> 
> ...


a box with a needlework piece built into the top sounds great, can't wait to see it!


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Fixing small opps....*

OK-- so here's my first tip. I was reminded of this little tip when I saw a similar little "defect" on my bed rail.

So let's suppose, just to humor me, that you have been commissioned to build a new royal throne for Queen Elizabeth. And not only that, but you've been given the grand honor and immense responsibility to build this new throne out of the last remaining piece of Transalvanian Ugbuga wood. This is a very rare wood indeed. Can't screw this up, no can go to big box store to get more---no can go to Rockler or Woodcraft for more either. Soooo no mistakes-- OK???

You are moving along so well, the Queen is going to be pleased. You are ready to apply your finish and YIKES-- right in the middle of the center--you know the piece the Royal Head will be resting on as she ponders the wonders of all those people who adore her and will never have the money she has--there's a stray sliver. Oh the horror of it. You have to find a way to repair the sliver because you can't take it off or you'll have a large divet that the Royal head will not appreciate. But to complicate matters this sliver is too small to get glue under it to fix it. What to do, what to do.

OK - getting bored with my rambling yet???? Sorry-- it's my only entertainment.

Well we've all have had this happen-- probably not with that rare Ugbuga wood.

You've got a sliver something like this.



It's pretty small - yet large enough that you can't take it out. Now how to fix it. The biggest problem with little slivers is how to get glue under the sliver without lifting it up so far that you take the chance of breaking it off.

Getting the glue bottle's tip under it is next to impossible. You could use these little squeeze bottles


to put some under it, but it's still a bit messy. Using your finger to try to jab some glue under it is also too messy to be practical.

What you need is another sliver! I have used very thin paper, such as a store receipt, but sometimes that's not stiff enough. So one of the best things that I've used is a small, very thin, piece of an offcut. Something like this.



Apply a little dab of glue onto the end.



Slide it under the sliver, getting a good coating under the sliver.

Then clamp.



Let dry - sand and finish the project.

So I hope this helps you save a piece of very important wood someday. And when it does, please remember me---


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Fixing small opps....*
> 
> OK-- so here's my first tip. I was reminded of this little tip when I saw a similar little "defect" on my bed rail.
> 
> ...


cool idea! thanks for the post!


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Fixing small opps....*
> 
> OK-- so here's my first tip. I was reminded of this little tip when I saw a similar little "defect" on my bed rail.
> 
> ...


When I've encountered that (usually because I caused the splinter myself), I will sometimes just break the piece entirely off, and then glued it back on. That way I get glue everywhere it needs to be, and usually (USUALLY) it looks just fine with no trace of the break lines.


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## FlWoodRat (Sep 12, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Fixing small opps....*
> 
> OK-- so here's my first tip. I was reminded of this little tip when I saw a similar little "defect" on my bed rail.
> 
> ...


Betsy, you are fast becoming one of my favorite LJ's. I love your energy and sense of community knowledge and respect. Keep posting ma'am. By the way. Given and OOPs like this, my wife always tells me,... Looks like another opportunity for embellishment! Isn't this the reason someone smarter than me invented the "inlay?" LOL,, Happy Days!


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Fixing small opps....*
> 
> OK-- so here's my first tip. I was reminded of this little tip when I saw a similar little "defect" on my bed rail.
> 
> ...


I've worked with Transalvanian Ugbuga. It's very hard and splinters easily. But it may not lift up enough to slide anything under it. Another thing you can do is put a drop of glue under the splinter and then gently blow it in with a little compressed air.

Also, when working with Transalvanian Ugbuga wood, make sure you wipe it down with mineral spirits and seal it well. It is very oily, and you wouldn't want the Queen's butt turning brown when she sits in her thrown.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Fixing small opps....*
> 
> OK-- so here's my first tip. I was reminded of this little tip when I saw a similar little "defect" on my bed rail.
> 
> ...


Hi Betsy;

I want to know how much you charged the Queen?

Good tip.

Lee


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## northwoodsman (Feb 22, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Fixing small opps....*
> 
> OK-- so here's my first tip. I was reminded of this little tip when I saw a similar little "defect" on my bed rail.
> 
> ...


Perhaps your next segment could take it one step further…. "How To Remove A Splinter From Your Finger and Glue It Back In Place."


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Fixing small opps....*
> 
> OK-- so here's my first tip. I was reminded of this little tip when I saw a similar little "defect" on my bed rail.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys.

Woodrat-- I'm flattered!

Blake--that's a GREAT idea - I've never thought of using compressed air to move glue. But it makes good sense because these are usually small fixes so it's only a small amount of glue that needs moved. Thanks for the tip! Oh and the mineral spirits is a good idea to .. wouldn't want to embarrass the Queen with a brown butt on those nice threads!

Lee-- I didn't charge enough, believe me and she talked me down from what I charged-- so I lost on this deal. I never was good at business.

North--I've never gotten a splinter--is that similar to a sliver? Hummmmm


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Fixing small opps....*
> 
> OK-- so here's my first tip. I was reminded of this little tip when I saw a similar little "defect" on my bed rail.
> 
> ...


Betsy, Betsy, Betsy,

How long did you say you have been out of commission? ;>)

Thanks for the great post.

Lew


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Fixing small opps....*
> 
> OK-- so here's my first tip. I was reminded of this little tip when I saw a similar little "defect" on my bed rail.
> 
> ...


Too long Lew.


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## Allison (Dec 31, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Fixing small opps....*
> 
> OK-- so here's my first tip. I was reminded of this little tip when I saw a similar little "defect" on my bed rail.
> 
> ...


Great idea Thanks!


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Fixing small opps....*
> 
> OK-- so here's my first tip. I was reminded of this little tip when I saw a similar little "defect" on my bed rail.
> 
> ...


Funny thing Betsy, that glue applicator you have is identical to mine. I think it came out of a printer ink refill kit or something like that.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Fixing small opps....*
> 
> OK-- so here's my first tip. I was reminded of this little tip when I saw a similar little "defect" on my bed rail.
> 
> ...


Grumpy - I picked the glue bottle up at Rockler. Sure has come in handy.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Sand paper and cheapskates *

So there I am in my little bedroom shop pondering the future and what projects I'd like to build when I'm feeling better. Hummmmm should clean up this mess. Once cleaned maybe it'll stay that way - until I start working again anyway.

So here I am cleaning up, picking up tiny pieces of wood, shavings, etc. Underneath it all is this miserable looking piece of sandpaper.

Here's my tip for the day. No matter what brand/type of sandpaper you use-- don't push it. In other words when you use up a piece of paper, throw it away. Don't overwork yourself by trying to stretch the paper just a little bit further. The only thing you are stretching is your project time. The grit on sandpaper only lasts so long, when its gone, its gone. The paper backing is simply not going to do the job. Don't be cheap just get out another piece of paper. You'll get your project done faster and probably better because you won't get frustrated with the lack of progress in your sanding stage.

It's like in baseball-when you try to stretch that single into a double, 90% of the time you get caught. Don't get caught - get a new piece of paper.

With that said, you can stretch your paper dollars by doing a few little things. First - one thing we all do is wrap paper around a block to do flat surfaces and sometimes different shaped blocks to do contours, etc. This leads to the problem that you only use about 1/3 of your paper, then you get all these little pieces with nothing to use them on.



One way that I've started to use to sand with is to take that same piece of paper and the same block of wood and make it into a four sided block. I end up using more of the paper and I don't wrestle with it staying on the block.





Use spray adhesive and apply to each side of your block and you now have a 4-sided sanding block. Double sided tape would also work but the spray is cheaper, although it does smell.



Let the adhesive dry for a few minutes before you start sanding. Once the paper is used up you can throw the whole block away or peel off the paper and re-use your block. I generally throw the whole thing away since it was scrap anyway.

I've also have heard that you can re-use grit 80 for 100, 100 for 150 etc as you grind down the grit. I think that's just trying to stretch your dollars a bit to far. Then you are also taking time to decide if that one piece is good as which grit,,, not worth it to me.

So guys and gals there's my little nugget for the day.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Sand paper and cheapskates *
> 
> So there I am in my little bedroom shop pondering the future and what projects I'd like to build when I'm feeling better. Hummmmm should clean up this mess. Once cleaned maybe it'll stay that way - until I start working again anyway.
> 
> ...


some cool ideas there! i agree with you about stretching sandpaper. after most projects i get rid of my ROS pads that are used. i find sanding easier starting with a new piece of paper for each job. not like do a picture frame and throw it away. i still use that for say another picture frame but on bigger projects after using that grit it goes off to the side in case i need it again and after that its gone.


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Sand paper and cheapskates *
> 
> So there I am in my little bedroom shop pondering the future and what projects I'd like to build when I'm feeling better. Hummmmm should clean up this mess. Once cleaned maybe it'll stay that way - until I start working again anyway.
> 
> ...


*"I've also have heard that you can re-use grit 80 for 100, 100 for 150 etc as you grind down the grit."*
This is one of those woodworking myths. If you use 100 grit past it's usefulness, you don't end up with 120 or 150 grit, you end up with dull 100 grit.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Sand paper and cheapskates *
> 
> So there I am in my little bedroom shop pondering the future and what projects I'd like to build when I'm feeling better. Hummmmm should clean up this mess. Once cleaned maybe it'll stay that way - until I start working again anyway.
> 
> ...


Great information, Betsy!! Thanks


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Sand paper and cheapskates *
> 
> So there I am in my little bedroom shop pondering the future and what projects I'd like to build when I'm feeling better. Hummmmm should clean up this mess. Once cleaned maybe it'll stay that way - until I start working again anyway.
> 
> ...


This is some great advice. I have to agree with Betsy and Tenontim about the myth of 80 turning to 100 and 100 turning to 150. If this wonderful myth were true, one piece of sandpaper could do a whole job (although I'm sure the myth says it only can go up one grade before expiring).

I was just noticing this weekend how much paper my sanding block wastes. A coincidence that the block is manufactured by a sandpaper company? I'll never know.
lol.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Plywood thoughts*

sitting here thinking of things that I was taught when I first started woodworking took me to plywood. We all seem to use a lot of it when we first start out. So here are some of my thoughts and tips for those who are new to using ply for their projects.

1) It's important to recognize which face is the best face. Sometimes this is difficult to decide depending on the sheet you pick. In this instance you need to decide which is the one you want facing out and mark it clearly so you don't spend time deciding over and over. Other times it's very easy to decide.

2) Once you know the best face you can decide how you plan to cut it.

2A) If you are using a circular saw-- put the best face down.
2B) if you are going to use a table saw - put the best face up.

The difference is in the way the blade turns. On a table saw the blade exits the board going down therefore any chipping, in theory, will be on the bad face.
With a circular saw the blade exits on the up cut - therefore the chips will occur on the top of the board.

3) Mask the cut line with tape. Tape can keep the fibers of the veneer from chipping. I use the blue painters tape, but a cheaper alternative is the clear packing tape.

3A) make sure the tape is securely on the board. If not, there is a potential that the tape can get pulled off and into the blade making quite a mess.

4) Instead of tape, you can score the ply with either a knife or there are special scoring sets that you can buy. I find a good utility knife will do the job.

4a) you can also score the ply with the saw blade itself. Set the blade just barely over the top of the throat plate. Just barely. You want to take off just a smidge of the veneer. The issue I find with this is that you are having to run the board through the saw twice, which creates twice the room for error.

5) a full sheet of ply can be heavy-- get help or cut it down to more manageable sizes before doing your final sizing.

6) Thin 1/4" ply can become a missile very quickly. This is because it's very flexible and if you are not careful to keep it flat on the table the saw blade can pick it up and toss it back at you. I generally set my blade a little higher on the thinner ply than I would normally. I am actually more inclined to cut 1/4" down to smaller sizes with a jig saw before final cutting on the table, I'm more likely to have better control.

Well that's all I can think of off the top of my head. I'm sure others will have more tips, and they are welcome to post them here.

Thanks for reading.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Plywood thoughts*
> 
> sitting here thinking of things that I was taught when I first started woodworking took me to plywood. We all seem to use a lot of it when we first start out. So here are some of my thoughts and tips for those who are new to using ply for their projects.
> 
> ...


thanks for all that advice betsy! i agree with you greatly on deciding which face. on my printer cabinet i initially cut the dado in the good side (opps) so i had to cut two more pieces but luckily i was able to save those pieces and reuse them so i didn't have to get more plywood!


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## steveosshop (Jun 21, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Plywood thoughts*
> 
> sitting here thinking of things that I was taught when I first started woodworking took me to plywood. We all seem to use a lot of it when we first start out. So here are some of my thoughts and tips for those who are new to using ply for their projects.
> 
> ...


I use the blue painters tape as well to make sure the fibers stay together. I also try to make sure and use a straight edge and circular saw to cut all plywood down to managable sizes right outta the store. 4'X8' sheets are just too big to handle safely on a table saw unless you have a huge amount of table surface and a really good outfeed table.


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Plywood thoughts*
> 
> sitting here thinking of things that I was taught when I first started woodworking took me to plywood. We all seem to use a lot of it when we first start out. So here are some of my thoughts and tips for those who are new to using ply for their projects.
> 
> ...


Thanks for these topics Betsy. Thanks also for your blog on learning to use the hand plane. I was puttering about with mine the other day and realized I was using some of the stuff you blogged about… I'll figure them out eventually.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Plywood thoughts*
> 
> sitting here thinking of things that I was taught when I first started woodworking took me to plywood. We all seem to use a lot of it when we first start out. So here are some of my thoughts and tips for those who are new to using ply for their projects.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Betsy.

Are you doing all this typing with just your left hand?

Lew


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Plywood thoughts*
> 
> sitting here thinking of things that I was taught when I first started woodworking took me to plywood. We all seem to use a lot of it when we first start out. So here are some of my thoughts and tips for those who are new to using ply for their projects.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys.

Mark - I'm really glad my input has helped you on your woodworking journey.

Lew - yes - left-handed. But I type for a living so my hunt and peck is much faster than most folks.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Plywood thoughts*
> 
> sitting here thinking of things that I was taught when I first started woodworking took me to plywood. We all seem to use a lot of it when we first start out. So here are some of my thoughts and tips for those who are new to using ply for their projects.
> 
> ...


I have used a large amount of ply building my Miter Bench and Storage. It has required 3/4, 1/2, and 1,4 sizes. I have had one kickback accident while working on this project. I have a DW746 with 52" rails and table and an outfeed table that is a bit longer and wider than table saw.
 
I have had a lot of success with breaking down the plywood using this and an in-feed table. The main problem is you have to go slow or else you will move off of the fence and either bind the blade (larger pieces) or blow your cut line with smaller pieces. Not saying a bit a danger is not involved, and I take the same precautions with the thinner stock. With that being said, the kickback I referenced earlier was a much smaller piece of ply that I was ripping for a drawer front. I tell you what, the SOB hurt like the dickens.

Always be safe when you are working with ply goods, take your time and think though the cut before you do it and what could go wrong and I found that you will more than like avoid that issue.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Measuring thoughts*

Tonight's tip runs along to something we all do, no matter if we are hand tools nuts, power tools maniacs or a combination of both. We measure, mark and cut. How we do that is important. One of the most important things in measuring, marking and cutting is *consistency. * Lack of consistency can lead to multiplication of errors along the way.

If you learn nothing else, and you should something else, learn this--use the same measuring tool throughout your project. When you are rough cutting this is not such a big deal. But when you get to the "this is where I want it to be" cutting, if you start with one ruler and end with a different, the chances are good that you will have different sized pieces. To check this-go to your shop and pick up two or three tapes, rulers, etc. and compare them side by side, chances are they are different. This difference goes to quality of what you buy. Rules with painted-on numbers are generally going to be less accurate than stamped numbers. A $2 tape will be less accurate, generally, than a $20 tape.

While we are on tapes, you know that little metal tip - you know the one-its the one that moves in an out and you are convinced that can't be right. Well think again. The tip is supposed to move, the movement helps to compensate for the thickness of the tip itself.

The tip is designed to pull out away from the tape for outside measurements and in toward the tape for inside measurements - such as the inside of a case.

The inherent problem with the tip on these tapes is that they get loose over time. Generally because we are abusing our tapes. Would you do that???? Me neither. The more they loosen the less accurate your measurements. If you use that loose-tipped tape to measure an opening and then use a tight-tipped tape to measure your stock-- you are going to be unhappy with the result.

To compensate for the loose-tip/tight-tipped issue I was taught to start my measurements at the one inch line then add an inch to whatever I finish with. I don't know about you, but I hate that tip. I always have a hard time remembering to add an inch. It's not a hard concept, but sometimes it can be a hard concept to put into practice. Additionally, sometimes you have to stretch the tape beyond your arm's length, then what? How do you keep that tape at the one inch line and still stretch yourself to the point you need to measure to? You can do what I do with the steel rule (keep reading)  It's still not my favorite way to measure anything.

Think about this to, if that tip were not there you could not hook it on the end of a board and keep it there while you are stretching it out to make a measurement.

I prefer to have a longer steel rule for most of the larger jobs. This accomplishes a couple of things. First, I'm not wrestling with a tape - keeping it hooked on the end of the board, while stretching it and then marking my line. Secondly, I don't have to flatten the curved tape to get an accurate measurement. The steel rule is always flat.

Now you say, but I like that hook because a steel rule can slip off the end or slide in on the board and then I'm off again. I solve this generally by using a small clamp to hold the steel rule in place. Takes about 10 seconds to clamp it and I'm assured that the rule will not move. Yep you can do this with the steel tape when you want to use the "start at the one inch line."

Now that you have the measuring worked out--how about the marking your measurements?

I can't run out of tips,,,, so that's tomorrow!

Thanks for reading. As always, your additional tips and suggestions are welcomed to be posted here. I'm doing this blog for fun and to keep my mind in the game while I'm healing up. So anything you can do to aide and abet my endeavors is always welcomed.

Oh - I also welcome controversy-- if you don't agree with me, please say so. Really.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Measuring thoughts*
> 
> Tonight's tip runs along to something we all do, no matter if we are hand tools nuts, power tools maniacs or a combination of both. We measure, mark and cut. How we do that is important. One of the most important things in measuring, marking and cutting is *consistency. * Lack of consistency can lead to multiplication of errors along the way.
> 
> ...


thanks for the post betsy!


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## ropedog (Mar 26, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Measuring thoughts*
> 
> Tonight's tip runs along to something we all do, no matter if we are hand tools nuts, power tools maniacs or a combination of both. We measure, mark and cut. How we do that is important. One of the most important things in measuring, marking and cutting is *consistency. * Lack of consistency can lead to multiplication of errors along the way.
> 
> ...


hey betsy the best way i have found to keep my measurements on track is to us a story stick. i mark all the pieces i neeed on the story stick then make all my marks and cuts from it. they all turn out the same because i don't have to pick up a tape at all. i don't really like the floating tip on tape measures so i use a folding ruler if i have to mark things with a rule.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Measuring thoughts*
> 
> Tonight's tip runs along to something we all do, no matter if we are hand tools nuts, power tools maniacs or a combination of both. We measure, mark and cut. How we do that is important. One of the most important things in measuring, marking and cutting is *consistency. * Lack of consistency can lead to multiplication of errors along the way.
> 
> ...


hey Roper-- yep the story sticks are great. I did not think I could explain how to make and use them though. I've only used one a couple of times. I watched a video of Frank Klaus using one and he explained it a little bit but not enough that I could turn around and explain it again. The stick can get confusing for me when I try to put too much on it. I've had pretty good success using them to mark hinge positions and/or key positions. But that's only a couple of marks - nothing to complicated.

As far as the tapes go--it's a love hate relationship for me. I like them a lot for roughing out my cuts, but I don't use them at all when it comes to final cutting. I use the the folding rule same as you. I have the same rule my Dad gave me years and years ago. I broke off one end recently and almost cried (I know that's very womanly of me-- you would never cry about that would you????).

Thanks for the post. Maybe you can post a bit more on the story sticks. I am quite sure I can't explain them very well.


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## ropedog (Mar 26, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Measuring thoughts*
> 
> Tonight's tip runs along to something we all do, no matter if we are hand tools nuts, power tools maniacs or a combination of both. We measure, mark and cut. How we do that is important. One of the most important things in measuring, marking and cutting is *consistency. * Lack of consistency can lead to multiplication of errors along the way.
> 
> ...


yes betsy i would cry because mine was my grandfathers and he used it for many years. he was a great man and i miss him everyday, the tools he gave me fill me with joy everytime i use them.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Measuring thoughts*
> 
> Tonight's tip runs along to something we all do, no matter if we are hand tools nuts, power tools maniacs or a combination of both. We measure, mark and cut. How we do that is important. One of the most important things in measuring, marking and cutting is *consistency. * Lack of consistency can lead to multiplication of errors along the way.
> 
> ...


Whew - it's good to know that you men can get emotional too!


----------



## ropedog (Mar 26, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Measuring thoughts*
> 
> Tonight's tip runs along to something we all do, no matter if we are hand tools nuts, power tools maniacs or a combination of both. We measure, mark and cut. How we do that is important. One of the most important things in measuring, marking and cutting is *consistency. * Lack of consistency can lead to multiplication of errors along the way.
> 
> ...


ya we just cry in the shop with all the tools running.


----------



## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Measuring thoughts*
> 
> Tonight's tip runs along to something we all do, no matter if we are hand tools nuts, power tools maniacs or a combination of both. We measure, mark and cut. How we do that is important. One of the most important things in measuring, marking and cutting is *consistency. * Lack of consistency can lead to multiplication of errors along the way.
> 
> ...


You should of seen me cry when that board hit me in the hip last week


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Measuring thoughts*
> 
> Tonight's tip runs along to something we all do, no matter if we are hand tools nuts, power tools maniacs or a combination of both. We measure, mark and cut. How we do that is important. One of the most important things in measuring, marking and cutting is *consistency. * Lack of consistency can lead to multiplication of errors along the way.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Betsy

Keep 'em coming!

Lew


----------



## Taigert (Nov 20, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Measuring thoughts*
> 
> Tonight's tip runs along to something we all do, no matter if we are hand tools nuts, power tools maniacs or a combination of both. We measure, mark and cut. How we do that is important. One of the most important things in measuring, marking and cutting is *consistency. * Lack of consistency can lead to multiplication of errors along the way.
> 
> ...


I ditto using a folding rule and a storey stick. The only thing I use my tape for roughing out stock. I do love my Starret steel rules. Betsy they also have rules with steel hooks on them, thats the style I use. I guess it depends on how accurate one wants to be, I try to stay within 1/64th".


----------



## Sac (Jun 14, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Measuring thoughts*
> 
> Tonight's tip runs along to something we all do, no matter if we are hand tools nuts, power tools maniacs or a combination of both. We measure, mark and cut. How we do that is important. One of the most important things in measuring, marking and cutting is *consistency. * Lack of consistency can lead to multiplication of errors along the way.
> 
> ...


Great tips there Betsy! I love the idea of clamping a steel rule. Also the metal tip on the tape. Seems like I remember reading about that many years ago but had forgotten all about it. And the idea of using the same tape/ruler through out a project. Wow I never thought about different tapes measuring differently. I'll take a look at mine today.

Thanks for these tips.


----------



## FlWoodRat (Sep 12, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Measuring thoughts*
> 
> Tonight's tip runs along to something we all do, no matter if we are hand tools nuts, power tools maniacs or a combination of both. We measure, mark and cut. How we do that is important. One of the most important things in measuring, marking and cutting is *consistency. * Lack of consistency can lead to multiplication of errors along the way.
> 
> ...


Betsy, I seldom measure anything with a tape unless I have to. Years ago, LOML asked me to "finally' install some crown molding in our kitchen then asked if I need HER hellp to get it done (in THAT tone). I replied, thanks, but no, I can handle it. She went out to do a half-hours stint with her roses. When she came back in, I was sitting down, having a sandwich and watching golf on TV. In THAT tone again, she said… I thought you said you were going to to the crown today… to which I said,, check it out.. it's done. Much to her amazement I had completed the task and the joints were almost imperceptable. Now, but not in THAT tone, she asked.. How did you do that, I wasnt there to hold the tape. I told her that I did not measure any of it, couldnt even find my tape measure. Then I explained to her how I did it. Two sliding sticks extended between the two ends, then clamped together. Then taken to the material and the ends marked and cut 1/16th over (estimated). The moulding was then flexed and stuck up and pressed flat. The extra length acted just like an extra set of hands. Two minutes later, the nail gun did the final work. After that explanation she asked… again in THAT tone.. If it was so damned easy, why did you wait so long to do it. I was smart enough to NOT answer that question. LOL


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Measuring thoughts*
> 
> Tonight's tip runs along to something we all do, no matter if we are hand tools nuts, power tools maniacs or a combination of both. We measure, mark and cut. How we do that is important. One of the most important things in measuring, marking and cutting is *consistency. * Lack of consistency can lead to multiplication of errors along the way.
> 
> ...


Geez Woodrat-I've been wanting to put up crown molding in my house. If I make you a sandwich and let you watch (yikes) golf on TV will you put up my molding to? I'd really appreciate it. 

Actually, all kidding aside, that's a great tip to use when I'm ready to do this job here at the house.

Story sticks and extended sticks are great ways to get around the need for a measuring tape, ruler, etc. After all what did the crafters do before these came about? They used story sticks and extended sticks to do the job.

Thanks for reading and your suggestions, etc.


----------



## FlWoodRat (Sep 12, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Measuring thoughts*
> 
> Tonight's tip runs along to something we all do, no matter if we are hand tools nuts, power tools maniacs or a combination of both. We measure, mark and cut. How we do that is important. One of the most important things in measuring, marking and cutting is *consistency. * Lack of consistency can lead to multiplication of errors along the way.
> 
> ...


My pleasure Betsy.. What type of sandwich? I will work for food. BTW, my father, who was a carpenter, taught me that trick. He also taught me how to plumb a vertical with a bob, not a level, how to square up abutting walls without a framing square and how to CLEAN UP after him.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Measuring thoughts*
> 
> Tonight's tip runs along to something we all do, no matter if we are hand tools nuts, power tools maniacs or a combination of both. We measure, mark and cut. How we do that is important. One of the most important things in measuring, marking and cutting is *consistency. * Lack of consistency can lead to multiplication of errors along the way.
> 
> ...


Woodrat--the best I can do is PBJ or bologna. I'm not very good at the kitchen stuff.

I like the fact that you learned to clean up. I bet your wife does too!


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Marking and cutting*

OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.

I'm thankful for the support my fellow LJ's have been giving me by reading and responding to my blogs.

So onto today's "tip." As we all know making/marking a line to use as a guide to cut your board to final length is quite important. If you don't mark the piece, you have no idea or are just guessing where to cut.

I use a Sharpie to mark out my rough cuts. Some folks use chalk. But I don't like chalk just because it's messy and reminds me of Mrs. Walker and her obsessive compulsive need to have a student every morning and every afternoon to clean her chalk erasers. Soooo I have a deep seated aversion to chalk. -- Actually while the Mrs. Walker story is true, I just don't use chalk. The Sharpie is just more convenient for me.



For my actual cut line I like two methods. A plain pencil line. I make a mark at the end of the square (or at the mark I'm using with a tape).



Then I flip the square around and place my pencil tip onto the line.



Then I slide my square up to the pencil and make my mark.





Another method is to use a marking knife.



A utility knife, like what I used here - is ok-- but a marking knife is a better option. I just could not find my marking knife to do this little tip blog.

When I use a marking knife to score a line I like to use this little tip I learned in a class. Because the scored line is essentially a "knife wall" you can use a chisel to make a "trough" to place your saw blade into before you cut.

I had to blacken out the chip for it to show up in the picture.



You can now use this chipped out portion to slide into the tooth of the blade and you'll get a perfect cut every time.



Now onto the argument about cutting on the line, on the left of the line or to the right of the line. Take the pencil line or leave it. We woodworkers sure have a lot of questions. Well here is the definitive answer (ain't I humble??) I take the line-- almost. I like to leave just a hair of the line.

OK - that's all I can muster today. I hope it's not to simplistic and maybe just a scooch helpful to someone.

Good health and happy sawdust making to you.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Marking and cutting*
> 
> OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Betsy!

I never knew about the chisel trick!

Tips, Pictures, Demonstrations and Typing- all left handed. Ahh! a woman of so many talents. :>)

Lew


----------



## thetimberkid (Apr 5, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Marking and cutting*
> 
> OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.
> 
> ...


Great idea!

Thanks for the post

Callum


----------



## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Marking and cutting*
> 
> OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.
> 
> ...


I'm glad I've finally got a definitive answer on cutting to the line. Thank you Betsy I do believe you've saved my marriage. ;-)

The rest is good. It's worth the while to have a collection of this information for reference.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Marking and cutting*
> 
> OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.
> 
> ...


Lew - not so much talent - just desperation to stay connected to my woodworking obsession.

Russell - now I'm a marriage saver - need to update my resume!

Thanks for reading AND responding!


----------



## Sac (Jun 14, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Marking and cutting*
> 
> OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.
> 
> ...


Good Post Betsy. I like the pencil as well. I have chalk from years ago. The pencil to me makes a more definitive line to follow. I've never thought about a sharpie for rough cuts. Good Idea. I'll have to go look at a marking knife. I've never used one. Personally I don't care for utility knives for marking My line always seems to jump off on a grain line. But that's just me. I have been cutting to leave some of the line. But if I am not carefull I'll cut the wrong side of the pencil hairline. So your post has just told me I need to start marking an X on the cut side.

Thanks for the tips Betsy. I've been waiting for this follow up from the last.


----------



## suliman (Dec 26, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Marking and cutting*
> 
> OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.
> 
> ...


Clevar idea !


----------



## Allison (Dec 31, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Marking and cutting*
> 
> OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.
> 
> ...


I am in total agreement myself, I do not like chalk. I too try to just go down the middle of the line. I never have been good at one side or the other. It's like a passion for me, I want to see a bit of the line on both sides. Betsy, Do you suppose that's a girl thing?
PEACE!!!


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Marking and cutting*
> 
> OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.
> 
> ...


Actually Allison-- I only want to see a smidge of the pencil line on one side of the blade (the good side not the waste side). Being able to see only a tiny bit allows me to know that I've not taken off too much and that my piece will not be short. I can then tweek it if necessary. If I leave the mark on the waste side then I know my board will be too short and I have to start over.


----------



## romansfivefive (Jan 26, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Marking and cutting*
> 
> OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.
> 
> ...


I learned so much thanks


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Marking and cutting*
> 
> OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.
> 
> ...


thanks for the post betsy! i really like the chisel trick, i might have to try it out sometime!


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Marking and cutting*
> 
> OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.
> 
> ...


Woa Betsy, you're gettin' a little close to that power tool!

I'd never heard the chisel trick before either. Thanks.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Marking and cutting*
> 
> OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.
> 
> ...


It felt good being that close to my chop saw Blake. But what you can't see is that it's unplugged. Unfortunately for me, it will be at least the Fall before I can plug it back in. Hence I'm writing these little tips to keep my head in the game.


----------



## moshel (Apr 25, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Marking and cutting*
> 
> OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.
> 
> ...


Thanks Betsy for the post. as for the chisel trick, i saw somewhere that when cutting with hand saw, you can use the same trick along the line of cut (end grain cut) and make a very easy to follow "tunnel". not sure but i think it was in wood whisperer video.


----------



## Taigert (Nov 20, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Marking and cutting*
> 
> OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.
> 
> ...


Betsy,
I am enjoying your posts, you do a good job with explaining things.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Marking and cutting*
> 
> OK - this is probably going to be very simplistic at best for most, if not all, of you. But I'm really trying to keep my head in the woodworking game.
> 
> ...


Thanks Ed-I try hard.

Moshel-- I've seen the same thing with a saw. It works well.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*The lowly butt joint*

In my continuing effort to show that woodworking can be simple and easy I present my next "tip."

I appreciate your looking/reading and your comments/input.

The butt joint is probably one of the most degraded and misunderstood joint in woodworking, yet it is the easiest to make. It can also be a very strong joint if done properly and used in the right application.

A butt joint generally is one board's edge placed against another's face.





A butt joint needs a mechanical fastener, such as a nail or screw (generally in conjunction with glue) to work.

One thing that I always found when I taught beginning woodworking was that people made deciding how to decide how to determine where to insert the fasteners for the joint an adventure. It was surprising how many people take the long road when the short lane was the easiest to take. They measure on the front side where the board is, then they flip the board over and mark that measurement on the outside then add the thickness to know where to drill a pilot hole. This creates a lot of room for error and frustration.

The easiest way to determine where to put your fasteners is to do all the marking from the inside.

Make sure your board/shelf if square to the face board.



Then mark both sides of the board's outline.



you can then mark the location where you want the fasteners to be placed.



You can then drill the holes from the inside. Make sure you use a backer board to keep from having some splitting on the outside/face of your board.



If I am going to use nails to fasten my boards - I like to use a nail spinner. The spinner, with the appropriate nail inserted, essentially drills the nail into your board. Generally using the spinner makes it so that you do not have to drill a pilot hole for the nail.



The spinner can be purchased from Lee Valley. I've never seen one at the box stores, but then I've not looked recently for one becuase I only need one!

If you are going to use screws to fasten your board you MUST drill a pilot hole or you risk splitting your wood. There are bits that countersink and drill the pilot hole at the same time.

The butt joint is definitely a good joint if done properly. This shelf was done with all butt joints and nails.



Some day soon (yeah right) I might put a finish on it.

Other alternatives for fasteners besides nails and screws are dowels and biscuits. I'm not set up to show those though.

Butt joints can be made stronger by using shallow dado's to fit then in or using a cleat to sit them on. I would not consider using a butt joint with only glue-- it always should have a mechanical fastener of some sort. This joint, used in the right application is a very versatile joint to use. It should not be overlooked or frowned upon. It can hold a good amount of weight depending on the thickness/length of the board.

So that's my tip for the day. I hope it's not been to simplistic and that it helps someone along their woodworking journey.

I appreciate all your encouragement!


----------



## FlWoodRat (Sep 12, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *The lowly butt joint*
> 
> In my continuing effort to show that woodworking can be simple and easy I present my next "tip."
> 
> ...


Betsy, I can hardly wait for my fellow LJ's to start making jokes about your BUTTTT joints. I would never do that.. Nice work ma'am and thanks for the tips. I agree that if weight loading is not an issue, butt joints are fine. The nice thing about using a small rabbett is that it hides minor imperfections in the endgrain cuts. Thanks for sharing your work with us Betsy


----------



## steveosshop (Jun 21, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *The lowly butt joint*
> 
> In my continuing effort to show that woodworking can be simple and easy I present my next "tip."
> 
> ...


Thanx for the tip. I use a doweling jig on a lot of butt joints to try and cut down on mechanical fasteners whenever possible. But you are right they are a good joint.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *The lowly butt joint*
> 
> In my continuing effort to show that woodworking can be simple and easy I present my next "tip."
> 
> ...


Great post, Betsy! Thanks!

It is a simple way of joining but can very effective, as you pointed out.

Lew

[Sorry, no smart a** comments today :>) ]


----------



## Sac (Jun 14, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *The lowly butt joint*
> 
> In my continuing effort to show that woodworking can be simple and easy I present my next "tip."
> 
> ...


Nice work Betsy. Would brads work in place of nails here as long as there was glue? Or would that compromise it's strength?


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *The lowly butt joint*
> 
> In my continuing effort to show that woodworking can be simple and easy I present my next "tip."
> 
> ...


Jerry - I'm no expert, but I believe that brad nails have heads similar to box or common nails. Heads that are flat and wider than the body of the nail. In addition brads are generally smaller than finish nails.

Most applications that you would use a butt joint on you would want to hide the head of the nail. Such as in the side of a shelving unit. Hiding the head of a finish nail is much easier. Hiding the head of a box or common nail and a brad nail is hard, if not impossible. In addition, a finish nail has an indention in its head which is used to place a nail set into it so as to hammer it below the surface of your work piece.

I don't think a brad nail would be practical for most applications for a butt joint.

Hope that helps.


----------



## wooddon (Jul 11, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *The lowly butt joint*
> 
> In my continuing effort to show that woodworking can be simple and easy I present my next "tip."
> 
> ...


If you are going to nail use cut nails they have more holding power.


----------



## Allison (Dec 31, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *The lowly butt joint*
> 
> In my continuing effort to show that woodworking can be simple and easy I present my next "tip."
> 
> ...


I love the shelf you made here and I LOVE this post. I have never heard of a nail spinner in my life, and I am serious. You learn something new everyday at L.J.'s 
Thanks Betsy


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Hand planes and their many uses*

So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.

Until then though - what to do, what to do. Can't let those tools sit idle-after all you must protect your tools from rust and the best way to do that would be to use them. So I've come up with some ways to use my favorite plane.

So the first--pretty easy-a paperweight for all those bills that you keep around for no particular reason after they've been paid.



And who needs a pretty cloth covered brick when you have a plane for a doorstop.



Of course, who can't relate to trying to keep a book open on the table while you use it as a reference. Hence - the book keeper opener.



Then, naturally, there's the purely decorative uses.



ohhhh - here's a woodworking application--- a sandpaper cutter!





One of my best ways to use this plane is as a prop to keep the lid of my jigsaw puzzle upright while I spend countless hours trying to figure out the latest jigsaw puzzle.



Then, last, but most certainly not least, use it to keep the other tools you aren't using company on the shelf.



Yep fellow LJ's I'm feeling a bit sorry for myself. Trying to stay upbeat while I wait for my surgery and the healing time to take place. It's going to be a long summer.

So what other alternative uses for this plane can you come up with? Entertain me!


----------



## SteveKorz (Mar 25, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Hand planes and their many uses*
> 
> So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.
> 
> ...


LOL… That's hilarious….

I'd put it on the endtable and put the remote on the front, sitting on the Iron….

Maybe under the "clip" for the lever cap you could put a photo… lol….


----------



## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Hand planes and their many uses*
> 
> So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.
> 
> ...


Betsy, I like you're ingenuity. I know that you've been using hand tools longer than I have so it's only natural that you would know things that never occurred to me. But the depth and breadth of your knowledge is remarkable. With so many uses, I'm sorry I only have three planes.

As for the summer, as long as you're looking forward to what you'll do when you can, then it will be like the frog said, "Times sure fun when you're having flies."


----------



## Sac (Jun 14, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Hand planes and their many uses*
> 
> So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.
> 
> ...


Hehe, nice post Betsy. Well it could be used as a straight line marker from point A to B I suppose. Remove the blade and fill the emptyness with a strip of wood with bristles glued to the wood and brush your dog or cat. That may help to keep your arms worked up for the time when you will use it for woodworking once you start back. Attach it to a wall for a hat rack maybe. And ohhh yeaaaa, What an Awesome BACON PRESS!!! No Rust will build up on it for sure!


----------



## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Hand planes and their many uses*
> 
> So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.
> 
> ...


...you're supposed to pay them? I just use them to keep my plane busy… this is such an educational site! LOL

How about heating them up and using them to iron your clothes, or I my two #4 make great matched bookends, the ever popular straight edge for drawing straight lines (of course it hasn't helped my Sketchup any  .....


----------



## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Hand planes and their many uses*
> 
> So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.
> 
> ...


Betsy,

How about a "curlie-holder" ? Good for when the high winds kick up… lol


----------



## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Hand planes and their many uses*
> 
> So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.
> 
> ...


Cheese slicer anyone? Ever seen paper-thin cheese slices? (Well, you won't with mine, heh.)


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Hand planes and their many uses*
> 
> So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.
> 
> ...


Shaved Ice for rum and cokes?


----------



## FlWoodRat (Sep 12, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Hand planes and their many uses*
> 
> So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.
> 
> ...


Betsy, It's *plane* to see that you have way too much time on your hands. Glad to see you still have a sense of humor. Please keep posting, I look forward to seeing what clever things you have to say.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Hand planes and their many uses*
> 
> So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.
> 
> ...


You guys have good ideas. As to those uses involving food--humm me thinks not so good. Of course, I cook very little so the chance that my planes would be used in the kitchen is not very high. 

Woodrat-- if I didn't joke around about my situation-- I'd be in the looney bin!

Thanks for humoring me!


----------



## moshel (Apr 25, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Hand planes and their many uses*
> 
> So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.
> 
> ...


Oh! the trivial use! if you hone the iron to P8000, shave your legs with it! i am using my #4 to shave my face when my electric razor run out of charge. real smooth results, and i think my nose is getting smaller.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Hand planes and their many uses*
> 
> So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.
> 
> ...


Shaving - YIKES! I'm too curvy to shave with a flat iron of a plane!!!


----------



## moshel (Apr 25, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Hand planes and their many uses*
> 
> So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.
> 
> ...


spokeshave?


----------



## Allison (Dec 31, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Hand planes and their many uses*
> 
> So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.
> 
> ...


I love this post Betsy, Thanks for the smile today!
PEACE!!!


----------



## keithcruickshank (Jun 3, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Hand planes and their many uses*
> 
> So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.
> 
> ...


funny!


----------



## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Hand planes and their many uses*
> 
> So I've been sitting here thinking and thinking and thinking about woodworking. An amazing hobby to be sure and certainly a great way to make a living if you so chose. But honestly, it's the pits as far as a hobby when you find yourself sidelined and unable to use your tools. They just sit there mocking you, calling your name, making noise to get your attention and yet to no avail. You can't use them. Well at least I can't - not just now. Come this Fall though, watch out--- there won't be a bit of wood safe from my reach.
> 
> ...


brilliant  
keep smiling during this little "hickup" in your life.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*My mind set and woodworking*

Some say my mind is set-- in other words - I'm stubborn. So say they.

I prefer to think I have a mind set. In other words - I think a certain way about certain things.

Safety is one of those things that I have a mind set about and my mind is set on. I've been thinking about this today as I sit here, yet another day on the couch, unable to go to the shop and do what I would prefer to do. I've been thinking that maybe if I just do this little something or other I can still work in the shop and make dust. Then that little voice comes out and tells me no no no no NO - you'll get hurt! And that voice is right.

I try to think safety when I go into my shop and one of the first things I have always told myself is not to work tired or when I'm not feeling well. And while I could probably do a little something with hand tools, I know that I'm not supposed to be doing any pushing or pulling or vibrating moves. That kind of limits even hand tools.

Accidents happen, by definition, an accident is an unintended occurrence or unintended outcome. No one goes into the shop with the intent of hurting ourselves.

The one thing that not everyone thinks about is to *intend* to go into the shop and come out the same way you went in. In other words, you have to think about those fingers in order to keep them attached to those hands. You don't intend to get hurt, but you have to intend to not get hurt.

We've all been working and wondered where that red paint came from. You get nicked or scraped without even feeling it. It happens. The goal though is to be sure that any injury can be handled with a little antiseptic and a band aide. Your greatest worry should be how to get that red paint out of that nice piece of wood not how to pay the medical bills from a trip to the hospital.

So while I sit here feeling sorry for myself because I can't work in the shop, I take heart in knowing a little safety now will mean that I will have two hands, ten fingers, two ears and two eyes still attached and working when I'm ready to get back at it.

Guys-- try to think about what it would be like for you to not be able to do something you love to do because today you did not keep safety in mind and something went terribly wrong. Let me tell you you won't like it. Not every injury is the result of negligence, but a safety mind set leads to less accidents and less second guessing about what went wrong.

Let's be safe out there (or in my case sitting here on my old, cat hair-covered, uncomfortable couch feeling sorry for myself and lecturing you!).


----------



## Sac (Jun 14, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *My mind set and woodworking*
> 
> Some say my mind is set-- in other words - I'm stubborn. So say they.
> 
> ...


Well said. When I a, tired and want to go into the garage I think twice and then end up taking a nap then heading in. In the past months I have been gathering tool and setting them up. Building another work bench to assemble projects on. Building some jigs and so on. I always try to think about safety before I even enter the garage. Today like others I did all my walk through about what tools I would be using today. One tool I don't give much thought to is this old as the hills Electric Drill. I love it. I didn't do all my thinking about safety today until. Hehe, Ok Well some of you don't have to think about it. I was driving some screws into the bench cabinet I started yesterday. To apply a little more preassure I got close to it but not a dangerous close until. yep Until I realized I didn't tie the beard up as I usually do. The drill grabbed it and the beard choked the drill to a stop as it started to pull. Scared the living crap outta me I tell ya. My beard is near 14 inches long now. So I reverse the drill get my beard back and proceed to be even more stupid and get it caught again. This time I thought it was going to pull the roots out. I say an ouch or two and thought how stupid can I be.

Well I am just glad it is as long as it is our it could have been bad. I had two choice's as the beard pulkled my face close to the drill. Pull away or not. Luckly I have a thick beard. My hair is always in a pony tail when I am in the garage or anywhere else this time of year.

Sorry to have such a long winded response Betsy. When I saw your post on safety which I try to always make my Number One Priority, the beard incident came to mind.

Happy Happy Sunday folks!


----------



## ropedog (Mar 26, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *My mind set and woodworking*
> 
> Some say my mind is set-- in other words - I'm stubborn. So say they.
> 
> ...


so true betsy, i went out in the shop last week, a little bit tired and came out bleeding and needing stiches.


----------



## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *My mind set and woodworking*
> 
> Some say my mind is set-- in other words - I'm stubborn. So say they.
> 
> ...


Lecture away Betsy. There have been times when I've been somewhat, well, let's just say, stupid. Fortunately, I've been lucky and still have all my parts. I know what's safe, but I often lack patience. I, for one, need a lecture every now and then. So, bring it on.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *My mind set and woodworking*
> 
> Some say my mind is set-- in other words - I'm stubborn. So say they.
> 
> ...


Betsy,

Thanks.

We all have done it and in an instant it turns around and bite us.

Reminds me of a funny story of some Christmas decorations, a ladder and an afternoon in the emergency room.

Lew


----------



## Taigert (Nov 20, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *My mind set and woodworking*
> 
> Some say my mind is set-- in other words - I'm stubborn. So say they.
> 
> ...


It only takes a second of not thinking to ruin your whole day or even change your whole life.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *My mind set and woodworking*
> 
> Some say my mind is set-- in other words - I'm stubborn. So say they.
> 
> ...


Seconds is exactly right and it's not just in woodworking but life in general.


----------



## Allison (Dec 31, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *My mind set and woodworking*
> 
> Some say my mind is set-- in other words - I'm stubborn. So say they.
> 
> ...


I have 3 big pieces of white paper that I used neon magic markers coloring the words 
"Safety First Allison
Because there is not ANYONE here gonna come running to HELP or hear your SCREAMS!!!" 
and I have them on the walls by the drill press, Sanders, and saws.
It is my Sarcastic way of telling my self its all on me. I also have about 6 pairs of goggles, pony tail holders and hair clips right in the door. 
I could not agree more with you and what Russell said it NEVER hurts to have us ALL be told this once in awhile.
PEACE!!!


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*A thought on the basics*

Not long ago I asked for some ideas to blog about to keep my head in the game while I wait for my recovery to be complete-- you guys really came through. As you know I've been working on (and exposing my lack of knowledge and ability) on blogging about Sketchup. Will keep that up for sure - I am learning. However, I need to go back and work on some of the other ideas you gave me to give myself a break from Sketchup and keep myself sane. Trying to figure out the program is harder than I thought!

Anyway - one of the ideas you all gave me to blog about was starting with the basics-of course, I have no illusions that I can cover all there is to cover--ha! there's just to much out there. But I try. 

I've covered measuring, etc. in http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Betsy/blog/5126

and marking and cutting, etc. here - http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Betsy/blog/5162

But I was trying to think of what I did to really learn to do what I do manage to get done. For those of you who are starting out and just getting your sawdust careers started-- don't start too big with the idea of making a period replica chippendale hoogjiggie thing. There's very few who can start with a masterpiece and pull it off.

How I started to learn woodworking was starting with books that now look hokey to me now, but at the time they helped a lot. You've seen them - building furniture with 2×4's-- those are some good books-they get you the basics. They all start with safety, then materials, then hardware and then some great projects using 2×4's and 3/4" material. Everything can be purchased at the box stores and generally can be built with very basic tools and can be done quickly.

So while not great shakes-that's my tip for the day.


----------



## Allison (Dec 31, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *A thought on the basics*
> 
> Not long ago I asked for some ideas to blog about to keep my head in the game while I wait for my recovery to be complete-- you guys really came through. As you know I've been working on (and exposing my lack of knowledge and ability) on blogging about Sketchup. Will keep that up for sure - I am learning. However, I need to go back and work on some of the other ideas you gave me to give myself a break from Sketchup and keep myself sane. Trying to figure out the program is harder than I thought!
> 
> ...


Betsy I think what you just wrote is so very important. We all started at the bottom, (at least everyone I know did) and sometimes I believe it never hurts any of us to go back to "our" beginning. Like safety for instance. I don't think any one here is above that. Besides I have never seen anyone start at the top and work their way down!
PEACE!!!
Allison
Thanks for the post!


----------



## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *A thought on the basics*
> 
> Not long ago I asked for some ideas to blog about to keep my head in the game while I wait for my recovery to be complete-- you guys really came through. As you know I've been working on (and exposing my lack of knowledge and ability) on blogging about Sketchup. Will keep that up for sure - I am learning. However, I need to go back and work on some of the other ideas you gave me to give myself a break from Sketchup and keep myself sane. Trying to figure out the program is harder than I thought!
> 
> ...


Them is words of wisdom Betsy. Gary's post looking back 13 years ago was good because it made me look back at where I started. I look at some of what I did at the beginning and compare it to what I do now and I wonder what ever caused me to continue. While I still have a long long long (maybe a few more longs) way to go, I can see progress. And if I had tried to do then what I do today I'm sure it would have ended badly.

So that's good advice; take steps and learn from each one.


----------



## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *A thought on the basics*
> 
> Not long ago I asked for some ideas to blog about to keep my head in the game while I wait for my recovery to be complete-- you guys really came through. As you know I've been working on (and exposing my lack of knowledge and ability) on blogging about Sketchup. Will keep that up for sure - I am learning. However, I need to go back and work on some of the other ideas you gave me to give myself a break from Sketchup and keep myself sane. Trying to figure out the program is harder than I thought!
> 
> ...


this is great advice… particularly since many beginners start out here at LJ and are bombarded with tons of fantastic projects made by experienced woodworkers who make it look easy.. those "starter projects" may seem second-rate in comparison.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Making miter corners*

In response to Woodworkinaspirations' forum entry about making miter corners - I thought I'd take a stab at explaining how I make my corners. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4967

The caveat on this is that my saw blade really, really needs cleaned and sharpened and my sled needs a new fence-- all this to admit that I have some tear out on the corners. But with that said, this should help aspirations to see *ONE* method to do box corners.

So for me I start by cuting my pieces a hair long (1/64 or less) of the final length. To do this - I make sure my blade is set at 90 degrees. I have an electronic gauge - but prefer my Incra square.



Be sure to set the square between the teeth of the blade. It should be sitting against the body of the blade. If it sets on the teeth you will not get a good set up.

Next I set up my table saw sled. This is a good basic sled and has served me well. But it is time to make a new fence for it.



Next I square one end of my work piece. You can see here it is not even close to square.



I set my saw blade so that the gullet of the blade is above my work piece. There is argument for having the blade all the way up, having it set just a tiny bit above the board and every where in between. I prefer to have just the gullet above the board.



I cut off just enough of the end to make it square.





I skipped taking a picture here - but I set my stop block to the length of my first side and made a cut. Then i used a second block to cut the short side. This second block simply makes it so I do not have to move my stop block once I remove it I can then cut my second long side without having to remeasure.

I put a black mark on the block to make it easier to see.



I use this method as an easy way to to keep the grain flowing. So I cut one long, one short, one long and then one short side. This makes the grain wrap around the three of the four corners.



It is also a good idea to mark the pieces as you cut them. You are a better man than me if you never get your pieces mixed up. Marking them simply saves time and frustrations.

Now that I have two sides and two ends the same lengths I move onto the miter cuts. I set my blade to 45 degrees - for this I do use my electronic gauge.



The next few pictures are from the back of the saw for clarity. You can see that my sled has both a 90 and 45 degree saw kerf.



You'll have to move your stop block over so that the very edge of the work piece is setting at the inside edge of the miter kerf. Once run through your cut should be exactly 45. Remember that your *inside* face goes onto the table. You should be able to see the outside face. You can see my little bit of tear out on the corner.



Cut the rest of your corners and this is what you should come up with. I'm holding the box closed with rubber bands.





I like to use the tape as a clamp system to gluing up my boxes, but for very small boxes you can't beat rubber bands.

to use the tape method - line up your pieces (outside face up) in the order they should be in. I use a small piece of tape at each joint to keep the pieces together without having to worry that my pieces will move during the next step. I put a squiggly mark on the "joint" tape to show it's position. The trick is to get the pieces to be solidly together.



I next run a piece of tape the length of the four combined pieces. I also leave about 1-3 inches at the end (the length depends on the size of the box I'm making).You can see the little tab at the end-- I made a big black mark to make it easier to see.



Next, flip the taped up four pieces over. Now lets pretend that I took the time to make my bottom dado, which I did not. I placed a piece of tape at the bottom and drew a line where the bottom dado would go if I were so inclined.



Next I just roll up the sides into a box.





Use the tab that hung over the end of the pieces to lock the box together.



And there you have it. A box without a top or bottom. But all the corners are nice and neat.



Hope that helps. As always any comments, suggestions or ideas are welcomed.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making miter corners*
> 
> In response to Woodworkinaspirations' forum entry about making miter corners - I thought I'd take a stab at explaining how I make my corners. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4967
> 
> ...


Nice tutorial, Betsy!

Thanks!


----------



## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Making miter corners*
> 
> In response to Woodworkinaspirations' forum entry about making miter corners - I thought I'd take a stab at explaining how I make my corners. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4967
> 
> ...


I've always hated miters, but you make it look easy. Thanks for the tutorial. I need a new fence on my sled too. I'm going to steal your safe exit "stack of plywood" remedy.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making miter corners*
> 
> In response to Woodworkinaspirations' forum entry about making miter corners - I thought I'd take a stab at explaining how I make my corners. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4967
> 
> ...


Excellent. Very thorough. Have you ever tried using a sacrificial piece behind your cut to eliminate the tear-out at the end? I was wondering if that might cause it to be less accurate.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Making miter corners*
> 
> In response to Woodworkinaspirations' forum entry about making miter corners - I thought I'd take a stab at explaining how I make my corners. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4967
> 
> ...


Thanks all.

Doug - I'd like to take credit for the sled's design, but since I can't properly design a straight line-I have to give props to Tom L. that taught a class I was in. The design works well and is easy to maintain.

Lightweight - a sacrificial piece is essentially the fence on the sled. I have used this fence for, and this is purely a guess, but probably 200+ boxes so it's just flat worn out. I could put a new piece in front of the fence and start with a new kerf, but I have a good piece of hard maple that I plan to use to make an entirely new fence. It won't hurt to clean and sharpen the blade as well. Thanks for the input.


----------



## Robb (Aug 18, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Making miter corners*
> 
> In response to Woodworkinaspirations' forum entry about making miter corners - I thought I'd take a stab at explaining how I make my corners. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4967
> 
> ...


Very good tutorial, thanks!


----------



## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making miter corners*
> 
> In response to Woodworkinaspirations' forum entry about making miter corners - I thought I'd take a stab at explaining how I make my corners. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4967
> 
> ...


Betsy what does go bucks mean has it something to do with money?Alistair


----------



## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Making miter corners*
> 
> In response to Woodworkinaspirations' forum entry about making miter corners - I thought I'd take a stab at explaining how I make my corners. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4967
> 
> ...


Betsy, you've got an ability to make things look simple. I always come away from your tutorials feeling a bit more confident. The quesion now is when will you be writing your Woodworking for Dummies book?


----------



## WWilder (Sep 27, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making miter corners*
> 
> In response to Woodworkinaspirations' forum entry about making miter corners - I thought I'd take a stab at explaining how I make my corners. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4967
> 
> ...


Thank you Betsy for the very well presented class. It will really help me out with my 45s and 90s for that matter. You really went out of your way to make sure all bases were covered. You rock!! I owe you big time


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Making miter corners*
> 
> In response to Woodworkinaspirations' forum entry about making miter corners - I thought I'd take a stab at explaining how I make my corners. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4967
> 
> ...


Thanks for the kudos guys. I love to teach - it's fun and rewarding. Woodworkinaspirations - glad I could help.

Scottsman - GO BUCKS--that's my college team - the Buckeyes of THE Ohio State University. They are not all that good - but they are my alma mater. So that's what we yell whenever we want to cheer them on. Google - script ohio and see what you come up with. It's pretty fun stuff.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making miter corners*
> 
> In response to Woodworkinaspirations' forum entry about making miter corners - I thought I'd take a stab at explaining how I make my corners. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4967
> 
> ...


Betsy,

Here's another thought I had about the tear-out. I have cheap, poor-quality tools and blades so I often have problems with tear out. I have sometimes used masking tape on the edges (especially fancy moldings or parts that I have prefinished) to minimize tear-out. It has seemed to help. Your solution of a sharper, cleaner blade and new fence is the correct solution, but for when that's not possible (like not enough time to go get the blade sharpened, or I'm just too lazy to change it), the tape can help. Thanks for your good teaching.


----------



## DennisLeeZongker (Jul 25, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making miter corners*
> 
> In response to Woodworkinaspirations' forum entry about making miter corners - I thought I'd take a stab at explaining how I make my corners. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4967
> 
> ...


Nice Job Betsy!!! Thanks for this very nice blog.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Making miter corners*
> 
> In response to Woodworkinaspirations' forum entry about making miter corners - I thought I'd take a stab at explaining how I make my corners. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4967
> 
> ...


Leftie - yep tape works great. I use it a lot especially when I am cutting plywood or veneer. It's a great, cheap way to get crisp edges. Thanks for the input.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Making a box tutorial*

Oldfolks - aka - John asked me about making a table saw sled for his new saw and if I could do a tutorial on how to make a sled like the one I have. Unfortunately, I'm not quite physically able for such a big project yet. However, I told him that I would show him how to make a great box using his miter gauge and just some scraps from his shop. So this blog is for John and I hope it will help him learn to make boxes and will help others to see that you do not need all those fancy gadgets that look so pretty in the magazines. The fancy things can certainly make your task easier - however, if you take your time and do a good job setting up your tools you can make great things, not just boxes, with the simplest tools.

This is one way but certainly not the only way to complete this process - so here we go.

John wants to be able to use his miter gauge as a "sled" to push materials through his blade.



As you can see one of the problems with a miter gauge that comes standard with most saws is that it is small - it has a relatively narrow face and the height is lacking. Mine gauge is less than 2" high.



The gauge's lack of "face" material necessitates making a larger face to back up your material. However, adding the extra face/fence is made difficult because of the location of the screw holes that you would use to attach the fence.



All these things are easily overcome. I'll get to that in a future entry. But for now I want to just do a little bit to show that you don't need expensive set up tools to get the job done.

First off is the lowly big box store combination square. You can pick up a cheap combo square for about $8 or so. They are not always the best for precision work because they are notoriously "unsquare." However, that does not mean that cheap is not workable or usable. So lets look at just one I have in my drawer. I have a gazillion of these things so I picked one at random.

The check your square-that is to see if it's square-- place a piece of paper at the edge of the bench or the saw and draw a line.



Then flip the square over and draw another line.



If the square is square-- you should have one line - one on top of the other.



My cheapo square that has been sitting in my drawer having stuff thrown on top of it and being abused in general is pretty much dead on square. I then used my good Incra square to compare it to the cheap square. 
It looks pretty good.



In my opinion the problem with these cheap squares is the mechanism used to hold the blade in the head of the square. if the little screw/spring system does not hold the blade tight - just give it up as a bad job.

As an aside, there is no shame going to a box store or Woodcraft or Rockler with a pencil and a piece of paper and testing a square before your buy it. I have done just that several times. It's infinitely better to test something like this at the store rather than buying it, getting it home and finding out it's no good. It's one of the few things you can test before buying.

The way I see it though, the strength of most of these cheapo squares is the head. As you can see here - the 45 and 90 of the cheapo compares well with my more expensive Incra square. It's not perfect, but pretty close. You can see a tiny gap, but close.





These cheap heads can be used to accurately set up your table saw blade. Here I have moved my blade out of square.



I can then adjust my blade to 45 using my cheap square head.



As you can see, using my Wixie gauge that the cheap square head came pretty darn close to exactly 45 degrees.



I grabbed a pieces of scrap ply and ran it through the blade using my miter gauge.



Flipping the two pieces up on edge and making a corner - you can see this set up did a good job.



The corner looks very good with my Incra square.



If you do not have anything to gauge the 45 with - say other than the gauge on the saw itself. Take heart-- just set it to 45 per the saw's gauge and make some test cuts. When you get a good corner, you are probably good to go. I'd probably cut 4 corners out of scrap to test my setting before cutting into my project piece. So you can set your saw without a square - the square just makes it easier. I'll try to demonstrate this another time. It's perfectly doable.

That's it for tonight. Next will be making the fence/face for the miter gauge and getting it ready for making accurate cuts.

As always your comments, suggestions or questions are always welcome.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making a box tutorial*
> 
> Oldfolks - aka - John asked me about making a table saw sled for his new saw and if I could do a tutorial on how to make a sled like the one I have. Unfortunately, I'm not quite physically able for such a big project yet. However, I told him that I would show him how to make a great box using his miter gauge and just some scraps from his shop. So this blog is for John and I hope it will help him learn to make boxes and will help others to see that you do not need all those fancy gadgets that look so pretty in the magazines. The fancy things can certainly make your task easier - however, if you take your time and do a good job setting up your tools you can make great things, not just boxes, with the simplest tools.
> 
> ...


Great tutorial, Betsy!

Thanks!!!


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## oldfolks (Apr 14, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making a box tutorial*
> 
> Oldfolks - aka - John asked me about making a table saw sled for his new saw and if I could do a tutorial on how to make a sled like the one I have. Unfortunately, I'm not quite physically able for such a big project yet. However, I told him that I would show him how to make a great box using his miter gauge and just some scraps from his shop. So this blog is for John and I hope it will help him learn to make boxes and will help others to see that you do not need all those fancy gadgets that look so pretty in the magazines. The fancy things can certainly make your task easier - however, if you take your time and do a good job setting up your tools you can make great things, not just boxes, with the simplest tools.
> 
> ...


Betsy, 
This is oldfolks aka John , I really like the way you put together this tutorial. Very clear and easy to follow.
Thank you


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## mhawkins2 (Aug 18, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making a box tutorial*
> 
> Oldfolks - aka - John asked me about making a table saw sled for his new saw and if I could do a tutorial on how to make a sled like the one I have. Unfortunately, I'm not quite physically able for such a big project yet. However, I told him that I would show him how to make a great box using his miter gauge and just some scraps from his shop. So this blog is for John and I hope it will help him learn to make boxes and will help others to see that you do not need all those fancy gadgets that look so pretty in the magazines. The fancy things can certainly make your task easier - however, if you take your time and do a good job setting up your tools you can make great things, not just boxes, with the simplest tools.
> 
> ...


Your inexpensive square looks very much like my inexpensive not quite so square square. I found mine was really out of square so now its a kids toy. I found a good one for less than the popular machinist square but more than my cheap one. However for the most accuracy for not much money I highly recommend a couple of drafting squares. They cost about the same as the cheap combination square but a usually very accurate.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Making a box tutorial*
> 
> Oldfolks - aka - John asked me about making a table saw sled for his new saw and if I could do a tutorial on how to make a sled like the one I have. Unfortunately, I'm not quite physically able for such a big project yet. However, I told him that I would show him how to make a great box using his miter gauge and just some scraps from his shop. So this blog is for John and I hope it will help him learn to make boxes and will help others to see that you do not need all those fancy gadgets that look so pretty in the magazines. The fancy things can certainly make your task easier - however, if you take your time and do a good job setting up your tools you can make great things, not just boxes, with the simplest tools.
> 
> ...


Drafting squares have definitely not got their due kudos. That's for certain.


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## parkerdude (Dec 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making a box tutorial*
> 
> Oldfolks - aka - John asked me about making a table saw sled for his new saw and if I could do a tutorial on how to make a sled like the one I have. Unfortunately, I'm not quite physically able for such a big project yet. However, I told him that I would show him how to make a great box using his miter gauge and just some scraps from his shop. So this blog is for John and I hope it will help him learn to make boxes and will help others to see that you do not need all those fancy gadgets that look so pretty in the magazines. The fancy things can certainly make your task easier - however, if you take your time and do a good job setting up your tools you can make great things, not just boxes, with the simplest tools.
> 
> ...


Hi Betsy,

Good post.

I noticed your "cheap head gauge" was actually resting on the carbide saw teeth and showed a small gap, as compared to your "wixie gauge that was shorter and resting on the saw blade below the carbide saw teeth. That probably is the difference between the two gauges.

Good point though, you can be too careful about "square".


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Making a box continued *

So I left off having made a test cut on piece of scrap. Now it's time to move onto actually setting up a "fence" on the miter gauge to make a box.

Setting the blade to just above the height of my material.



The next few shots are from the back of the saw just for clarity.

A word or two about measuring - measure from the inside of the tooth toward the saw fence. You have to take into account the "set" of the blade's teeth. I tried to get a picture of the "set" but did not come out so good. I'm sure someone else can do a better job explaining this - but essentially - the "set" is the way the teeth are positioned on the body of the blade. Take a close look at your blade and you'll probably notice that one tooth leans toward one side then the next tooth leans towards the other. The distance between both teeth makes the total width of the kerf. The importance of this when measuring is that you want to measure from the tooth that leans towards the fence - not the one that leans away from the fence.

I'm shooting for a 4" side.



You can see that the 4 on my ruler sits right at the inside of the tooth.

Now here's a little trick. When you are using a fence on your miter gauge or even a table saw sled, you don't have to measure from the blade to the stop block. Instead - measure from the inside of the saw kerf on the fence. You can see here that I made an initial cut into the fence. The arrow is where you want to set the ruler from.





Next is clamping a stop block onto the fence and using the ruler to position the block 4" from the blade or the kerf - which ever you like best..





As I said, I'm shooting for a 4" inside. But this is not metal work where you have to have precision to .0001". I can measure very well - but I don't get a gray hair if I'm going for 4" and end up with 3 63/64" or even 3 60/64". If your project does not have to fit into something else - don't stress such small measurements. You have to decide how precise you want to be. Now with that said - say that I set my stop block at 3.75 instead of four or I just wanted to move the block over a tiny bit. I don't unclamp my stop block - I loosen it just a tiny bit - then I use my girly girl little persuasion tool to tap the block over - then tighten the clamp back down.



OK - so now my stop block is set at 4" are pretty close thereabouts. Next I want to square up on end of my material. You don't need to cut off very much - just enough to square it up.





If you don't start with square stock - you won't end up with a square box-how's that for some advise!!! 

So next slide your square end up against the stop block and you are ready to make the first cut. I cut all 4 of miy sides the same length - I'm going to use this as a paper clip box for my desk at work. I like to mark all my pieces with the number of the side and I also put an arrow that shows which edge is up.



Now that they are all cut square it's time to cut the miter - so you need to reset your blade to 45 degrees.

Here's my safety talk for the day-whenever I change my blade settings - or anytime my hands are going be near the blade for set up - I unplug the saw. No sense taking any chances.



After I set the blade to 45 I run it through my fence to give me a 45 kerf to set my stop block with. You can see from the next picture where to set the piece.



This next shot shows an area of concern. See how close the stop is to blade?



You need a way to hold the wood down against the table as it passes through the blade. You could be tempted to do this …



BUT DON'T! It's not safe. First off - your hand is to close to the blade, secondly your body is unbalanced. It's safer to use a second clamp to to hold down the work piece. Here is a shot from the front of the saw and from the back.





Once set up run your piece through the blade. Completely through the blade - don't stop until the board is past the back of the blade.



The next picture is not very good - but the cut should give you a knife's edge for a nice crisp corner.



Someone asked me how to cut one side then the other side - how to move the piece after the first cut.

I've marked the piece with an "A" and a "B". I cut the first side.



Then slide the board out and twist it to the left.



You can see that once twisted - the "B" is upside down. I have not lifted the board off the table - just turned it.



After the second cut - this is what you should have.



First test corner.



Here are the sides held together with rubber bands - top & bottom shots.





This corner is what you want to end up with.





If your corner does not turn out so well - there are ways to fix it. I'll try to cover that another time.

One last little point - look at the saw kerf in this picture.


See how it makes a little "v" at the top? That's not a bad thing for a complete through cut - but when it comes to making the key cuts in the corners later in the process - you'll have to make some adjustments for that "V." If you don't have a flat top blade, there are ways around it.

As always, comments, questions and suggestions welcome. This is only one way to get a box made. There are many, many others. I hope this helps answer a few questions I've received.


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## Ampeater (Feb 21, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making a box continued *
> 
> So I left off having made a test cut on piece of scrap. Now it's time to move onto actually setting up a "fence" on the miter gauge to make a box.
> 
> ...


I don't know what the boo boo is but that is a great tutorial.

A couple of guesses.
Your forgot to plug the saw back in.
You forgot to cut the dado for the bottom of the box.

GO BUCKS!! BEAT MICHIGAN STATE!!!


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making a box continued *
> 
> So I left off having made a test cut on piece of scrap. Now it's time to move onto actually setting up a "fence" on the miter gauge to make a box.
> 
> ...


Well done !!!! Alistair I take it now that bucks are a sports team of some kind?


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Making a box continued *
> 
> So I left off having made a test cut on piece of scrap. Now it's time to move onto actually setting up a "fence" on the miter gauge to make a box.
> 
> ...


Scott-- the Bucks are THE (that's pronounced "thee") Ohio State University. That's my alma mater. Buckeye fans are a bit nutty, but that's OK because a "buckeye" is a nut.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Making a box tutorial continued - left out something*

As anyone who has tried to write a detailed blog knows, you can't think of it all. Seems I missed an important part of setting up your miter gauge to get a good miter corner.

Someone IM'd me and said he was having trouble getting a good corner. The trouble may be that the miter gauge is not set corectly. The gauge has to be set 90 degrees to the blade.

1) use a square and make sure your *blade* is set at 90 degrees. 
2) move your gauge/fence up toward the blade. 
3) lay a square against the blade and the fence. 
4) adjust the miter gauge as necessary. It should sit 90 degrees to the blade.

If your miter gauge/fence is not set at 90 - it won't ever matter whether you reset the blade perfectly to 45 for the perfect cut. Long and short - the fence needs to be 90 and the blade needs to be 45 to make the best miter corner.

Take heart - it can be annoying having to get all these angles right. But it can be done. The miter gauges that come with the saws are not the best - they are really an afterthought. If nothing else, struggling setting up the miter gauge to cut angles should inspire you to make a table sled.

Hopefully this helps.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making a box tutorial continued - left out something*
> 
> As anyone who has tried to write a detailed blog knows, you can't think of it all. Seems I missed an important part of setting up your miter gauge to get a good miter corner.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the clarification, Betsy.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Box making tutorial continued - doing the bottom*

Time to put the bottom in the box. On a typical box project, I cut the bottom groove before I cut the mitered ends. The reason for this is just safety and ease of pushing through the blade. You can see here that the chance exists to pop the piece off the table - it the miter were not there, that chance would be eliminated. This picture is exaggerated as it's hard to make the piece do the flip at the same time as taking the picture.



The box material I'm using is small enough to use a 1/8" bottom panel. I like to have my groove set the thickness of the bottom panel from the bottom of the piece. Maybe a scooch more, but not much. I don't measure this distance. I use the bottom panel itself to set my fence.



I set my height to just shy of 1/2 the thickness of the material.



When I get ready to cut, I make sure my pieces are stackied so that the bottom edge is in the right position when I pick it up.



Using a push stick is a must as is a "featherboard." I'm using a paint stick as a feather board here. Some would cringe at this as they'd prefer to use a featherboard that is secured to the top in one fashion or another. But the fellow LJ who asked me to do this blog has little funds and limited materials - I wanted to show him you could do what he wants to do with very little. With that said - safety is paramount - so if you do not feel comfortable with this type of featherboard - you shouldn't try it.



My bottom material is 1/8" and my blade is 1/8" So in theory I should be able to make one pass over the blade and have a good slot to place the bottom. But as you can see - this is not necessarily true.



To overcome this - simply move your fence over a tiny bit, not much. You don't want your bottom too tight - nor too loose. I moved my fence over about a 1/32nd. 


So now to cut the bottom to size. There are numerous ways to do this. You can simply put two sides together and slip in your bottom material and make tick marks on where to cut.



Or you can put two sides together and measure. Here I've inserted the rule into the groove.



This is not precise measuring - I tend to sneak up on the final size. Takes a little longer - but I've got lots of time. You can see here that I've over shot my mark a little. My corners don't come together.



I snipped a little off two edges and now my corners meet nicely.



Next is simply gluing up. I'll repost the pictures here - but previous blog entries tell how I do this.













Of course, you want to put your bottom in before you close up the box!

As always - any comments welcome. This is only one way to do the job. Hope it helps.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Box making tutorial continued - doing the bottom*
> 
> Time to put the bottom in the box. On a typical box project, I cut the bottom groove before I cut the mitered ends. The reason for this is just safety and ease of pushing through the blade. You can see here that the chance exists to pop the piece off the table - it the miter were not there, that chance would be eliminated. This picture is exaggerated as it's hard to make the piece do the flip at the same time as taking the picture.
> 
> ...


Nice job, Betsy. I like the way you used rubber bands as clamps!


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## SawDustnSplinters (Jan 18, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Box making tutorial continued - doing the bottom*
> 
> Time to put the bottom in the box. On a typical box project, I cut the bottom groove before I cut the mitered ends. The reason for this is just safety and ease of pushing through the blade. You can see here that the chance exists to pop the piece off the table - it the miter were not there, that chance would be eliminated. This picture is exaggerated as it's hard to make the piece do the flip at the same time as taking the picture.
> 
> ...


Good job, and very informative post. Thanx. Doing those kind of cuts on the table saw simply gives me the darn willies  So I tend to find other alternative ways to do the same….Radial Arm Saw, Bandsaw, Router…. anything…  Had way too many close calls


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Box making tutorial continued - doing the bottom*
> 
> Time to put the bottom in the box. On a typical box project, I cut the bottom groove before I cut the mitered ends. The reason for this is just safety and ease of pushing through the blade. You can see here that the chance exists to pop the piece off the table - it the miter were not there, that chance would be eliminated. This picture is exaggerated as it's hard to make the piece do the flip at the same time as taking the picture.
> 
> ...


Thanks Lew. Wish I could say the rubber bands were an original idea.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Keeping track of that pesky little part and a little sanding tip*

Sometimes I have to remind myself just how much common sense goes into making my woodworking enjoyable and less tedious.

As most of you know I'm making a small cabinet for a friend's Wii/TV set up. Well, I'm going to finally use that set of CMT rasied panel cutters. That, of course, requires a 1/2" collett for my router table. The bits and the router table were quite easy to find (once you clear away the dust). That pesky 1/2" collet, however, was not. In fact, I spent the better part of an hour looking for the little thing. I very seldom use it, but when I do, it's always the same thing - where is it? Where did I lay it down last time? So now, I've come up with a very simple, common sense solution that many of you probably already use. I used a bit of string and tied it into a loop, then ran the loop through the center of the collett - then ran the other end of the loop through the loop under the collett - tightened it and hung it on the s-hook I use to keep my other table tools handy. Problem solved.



Now onto that little sanding thing I finally figured out. I have to clean up all the parts for the door frames, panels, drawer front and base pieces. I've got them milled to thickness and am ready to cut to final width/length. But since I'm still not quite up to smoothing every piece with a hand plane (getting there though!) I need to use my sander. The thought of sanding all those small pieces to get out mill marks was daunting. Then it hit me, sand all the big pieces before you cut them into little pieces! GENIUS I KNOW! I know I'll have to do a little finish work on the sanding once the parts are cut to size and routed, but it's a lot less now that I've already sanded them through 150 grit. This is the pile I'm working with. Some very pretty cherry.



Well that's all the immense wisdom I can impart to my web friends tonight. I wish someone had told me all this a long time ago!!!


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## Woodshopfreak (Feb 26, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Keeping track of that pesky little part and a little sanding tip*
> 
> Sometimes I have to remind myself just how much common sense goes into making my woodworking enjoyable and less tedious.
> 
> ...


It always seems like I misplace my router parts, mostly bits, becasue I lay them under my router table with the other 20 things I have down there, and then I can't find them.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Keeping track of that pesky little part and a little sanding tip*
> 
> Sometimes I have to remind myself just how much common sense goes into making my woodworking enjoyable and less tedious.
> 
> ...


Betsy, I am sure a lot of us can empathize with you over losing small parts like this, not to mention pencils, tape measures etc. With the cabinet that I just finished I "happened" to lose a piece of the face frame after I had milled the all the parts and stacked them in a designated area. This was a stick of wood that was 40" long. I simply had it in my hand one minute and 5 minutes later could not find it despite spending over an hour looking for it all the while insisting that "it has to be in plain sight". Sometimes I believe that maybe there are shop gremlins who "misplace" these things just to be mischievous.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Keeping track of that pesky little part and a little sanding tip*
> 
> Sometimes I have to remind myself just how much common sense goes into making my woodworking enjoyable and less tedious.
> 
> ...


Tyler - I solved that problem when I got my Jessom table. It has no shelf!

Scott - gremlins are probably the best bet here. I've done the "I just had it" speech with myself many times. When I was remodeling my house I was always loosing tools - and I'd have to take a break. When I came back, the tools did too!


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## costelr (May 24, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Keeping track of that pesky little part and a little sanding tip*
> 
> Sometimes I have to remind myself just how much common sense goes into making my woodworking enjoyable and less tedious.
> 
> ...


I use plastic zip lock type bags alot. All the router collets, wenches, collars and that plastic face with the straight edge (has it a technical name?) are in a bag in the side pocket of the router table. All those small sprayer parts are in another plastic bag in the sprayer box. I try to keep all like things with like things.

I still lose stuff. Alot. My wife once gave me a card with a guy looking in a refrigerator full of butter. Nothing but butter in the refrigerator. The caption was "Honey, where's the butter?"


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Keeping track of that pesky little part and a little sanding tip*
> 
> Sometimes I have to remind myself just how much common sense goes into making my woodworking enjoyable and less tedious.
> 
> ...


Great idea Betsy!!

I made a thin wall cabinet that holds all my router bits- on several "shelves". The bottom shelf is dedicated to colletts, inserts, router base screw and the like. Up and down the 2 sides are 8d finish nails to hold the wrenches, inlay kits and extra plastic bases. It's quite a menagerie but it works for me.

Lew


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Keeping track of that pesky little part and a little sanding tip*
> 
> Sometimes I have to remind myself just how much common sense goes into making my woodworking enjoyable and less tedious.
> 
> ...


Betsy,

We all seem to have that same problem of misplacing things. I've been doing a thorough cleaning of the shop to make room for some additional equipment and am amazed at what I have found. But in the reorganization process, I wasted many hours looking for concrete screws and loads for driving the nails to put up some shelving. I did finally find them (while trying to productively use my time looking for them). I'd hate to think of how much money I would have lost if I were doing this for a living with all the time I spend looking for stuff. One day I do hope to be better organized!

Thanks for reminding us of some great tips!


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## Rustic (Jul 21, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Keeping track of that pesky little part and a little sanding tip*
> 
> Sometimes I have to remind myself just how much common sense goes into making my woodworking enjoyable and less tedious.
> 
> ...


On the sho Renovation reality the other night. There was a guy who keptlosing his tape measure. He sent his wife out to buy some supplies. She bought 8 tape measures. By the end of the show he had lost all but 3. I have a dedicated spot for mine…Somewhere in the shop.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Tearing it down to put it together... just a musing*

This is just a little rambling on my part - trying to make a little sense of something I stumbled onto that has helped me a bit in my woodworking adventure.

Recently, I've been reading lots and lots of "feel good" books and books on how to lift your own spirits and those warm fuzzy books and articles to help a person get a grip on things. After my accident, I allowed everything to turn very negative and blah in life. So I decided to turn that around and just inundate myself with positive, uplifting and bright things. Whether you believe in that sort of thing helping or not, is not important. All I can tell you it has helped me 100% turn myself around and get back on the path of feeling good, being good and being fully alive. It's gotten me back to exercising, losing the excess tonnage I put on, I'm not on any medications, my diet is healthy again, I smile more, I'm more helpful to others around me, my job is going so much better, I'm having the time of my life with friends and family, etc. etc. - you get the picture.

One little thing in all that has really given me a different look on my woodworking was a question on how you look at things - that question was - "what do you really see?" When I look at a set of plans I see the lines, the measurements, etc. I don't see the little things among all those lines, etc. I've found that if I study the plans in depth step by step its a whole lot easier than just looking and seeing it. Now let me explain the "in depth" part.

Sitting there at your computer - pick up any object on your table, anything at all. Now put your computer aside and pull out a piece of paper and a pencil/pen. Study that object and start writing down everything you notice/see about that object.

For example-- I just picked up my TV remote and this is what I see:

1) it's rectangular
2) it's gray on the front
3) it's black on the back
4) it's skinny - 1.5" 
5) it has 4 colors of buttons
6) it has round buttons
7) it has square buttons
8) it has rectangular buttons
9) it has numbers on the buttons
10) it has lettering on the buttons
11) it has lettering on the body
12) it has little arrows on the body
13) it has little rectangles on the body
14) its has words on the body
15) It has a Westinghouse symbol on the body
16) the Westinghouse symbol is round with a "W" in the circle
17) it has 54 letters on the body
18) it has 10 numbers on the body
19) it has a battery compartment
20) it has two double A batteries inside
21) It has two little stub feet on the back

on and on, I could probably come up with 10+ other things to list. Do you see where I'm going? If you are starting out on a new project, one you've never done before, and if you can tear each step, and each diagram apart piece by piece and really see it for it's essential simplicity - you can make anything you want! Everything that looks complicated really isn't if you can break it down into very small parts.

Now understanding your project plans in this depth--is one thing-carrying them out is another. But there should be no reason that you can't carry out anything that you've studied this in depth. You just have to break down each step of the physical doing in the same way you broke down the studying. I think it will *really slow down* the process - but I also think that you'll learn more, enjoy the process more and most assuredly enjoy the finished project more.

I've been doing this on a couple of projects that I'm working on now - one in the shop and one out-- and it's helping me to really see and understand what I'm doing.

Just my rambling - but I hope this gives you something to ponder.

As always, thoughts and comments welcome.


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## cajunpen (Apr 9, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Tearing it down to put it together... just a musing*
> 
> This is just a little rambling on my part - trying to make a little sense of something I stumbled onto that has helped me a bit in my woodworking adventure.
> 
> ...


Betsy that makes so much sense that it's scary. Seems like that approach to life would make all that we do seem easier and we would end up with better results. I plan on adopted your philosophy and see what happens.

Happy to hear that you are on the mend and life is back to normal.


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## scrappy (Jan 3, 2009)

Betsy said:


> *Tearing it down to put it together... just a musing*
> 
> This is just a little rambling on my part - trying to make a little sense of something I stumbled onto that has helped me a bit in my woodworking adventure.
> 
> ...


Fantastic outlook to have. Thank you for reinforcing the positive in all things.

I understand what you mean about breaking things down to step by step simplicity. That is something that I inherited from my dad. He was never one to just "jump in" to something. Allways wanted to anilyze and study what he was going to do BEFORE starting. It took a LONG time for me to see how much this really helped the process in the long run. Now it is something I do every day.

When I am at work or the drive to and from, I am going over in my mind just how I want a project to turn out. Breaking it down to step by step on what has to be done first, second, etc.. and HOW each step must be accomplished. ( of course, haveing a split personality helps to multitask)haha I will be explaining things to my wife(who knows almost nothing about wood working) just to here it out loud and see weather it makes sense or not.

I also seem to talk to myself at work when I am reorganizeing the wharehouse, or display area, etc.. it helps to break it down when I can here it out loud. (trust me, I get a LOT of comments about the talking to myself)

Anyway…...I just wanted to agree with you holeheartedly about the keep it positive and think it through. If all you are doing is one small step at a time, there are very few limitations on what you can accomplish.

The biggest concern for most things is *SAFETY* . Make sure that you allways work safe and things will work out. Maybe not the first time, (wait for my segented turning) But with practice and positive thinking, you can do it.

Thank you again for the encouragment and the forsite to look ahead to bigger and better things.

Glad you are on the road to recovery.

Scrappy


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## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Tearing it down to put it together... just a musing*
> 
> This is just a little rambling on my part - trying to make a little sense of something I stumbled onto that has helped me a bit in my woodworking adventure.
> 
> ...


Betsy it is great to see you writing again. Having written computer programs for well over 30 years I'm familiar with breaking things down into small components. The difference you bring out is attitude. Instead of looking at what cannot be done, the focus is on what can be done. It's a great perspective and great advice.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

Betsy said:


> *Tearing it down to put it together... just a musing*
> 
> This is just a little rambling on my part - trying to make a little sense of something I stumbled onto that has helped me a bit in my woodworking adventure.
> 
> ...


thank you for this reminder ,

we do get off , sometimes ,
it's good you are showing a way back .

!- what do you want to do ? - the sky is open here .

2- what can you do ? - the door is open here .

3- what will you do ? - put some wings on those dreams and prayers .

enjoy !


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Tearing it down to put it together... just a musing*
> 
> This is just a little rambling on my part - trying to make a little sense of something I stumbled onto that has helped me a bit in my woodworking adventure.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Betsy.

Seeing the "smaller" parts really does help conquer the larger ones.


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## vjeko (Jan 19, 2009)

Betsy said:


> *Tearing it down to put it together... just a musing*
> 
> This is just a little rambling on my part - trying to make a little sense of something I stumbled onto that has helped me a bit in my woodworking adventure.
> 
> ...


Hi Betsy,
It's always good to stop and sharpen the axe before continuing
cutting down the forest and this type of thinking that you've done
helps a lot to get the axe very sharp. Your thinking immediately
reminded me of the old "how do you eat an elephant - piece by piece"


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Tearing it down to put it together... just a musing*
> 
> This is just a little rambling on my part - trying to make a little sense of something I stumbled onto that has helped me a bit in my woodworking adventure.
> 
> ...


Thank Betsys for a whole new prespective.
David thanks also


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Tearing it down to put it together... just a musing*
> 
> This is just a little rambling on my part - trying to make a little sense of something I stumbled onto that has helped me a bit in my woodworking adventure.
> 
> ...


Thanks for reading. Hope it helps in some small way.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Pattern routing and using carpet tape*

Well - it's been six months or so since I've been able to work in the shop. So I thought I would start with a project that I am very familiar with and knew I'd could do and be successful. Alas--another set of Adirondack chairs. I need a new set anyway.

So I'm getting all my stuff together and remembering that the last time I made the chairs I had some trouble with my tape not always holding all the way through a pattern cut. You know how it works, you put on several strips of tape, line up your work pieces, press down on it hard, pick it up and shake it making sure it's good and stuck. Then you start routing and you realize that things are not quite right - the tape slipped!

Anyway I know this will not help everyone in every project, but I thought I'd share anyway.

My chair templates already have the holes drilled for the dowel pegs so that gave me an idea. I still use the tape, but I add a bit of a back up. It dawned on me that I could screw my template to the work piece using a "washer" of sorts by attaching the washer through the already drilled template holes. This is what I did.



This is how I used them.



I used two "washer" per template since I figured if my tape slipped - one washer may just act as a pivot point and still mess up my piece.

After I router, I removed the washers then used my template to drill my peg holes, then removed the tape. It adds an extra step, but it gave me a little bit of confidence knowing my template would not slip and I had no problem.

I can't use this technique for every job - but for this particular job it worked great. Hope this gives someone else some idea for their projects.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Pattern routing and using carpet tape*
> 
> Well - it's been six months or so since I've been able to work in the shop. So I thought I would start with a project that I am very familiar with and knew I'd could do and be successful. Alas--another set of Adirondack chairs. I need a new set anyway.
> 
> ...


Betsy!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Great to hear from you again and a Great tip!

Keep 'em coming!

Lew


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Pattern routing and using carpet tape*
> 
> Well - it's been six months or so since I've been able to work in the shop. So I thought I would start with a project that I am very familiar with and knew I'd could do and be successful. Alas--another set of Adirondack chairs. I need a new set anyway.
> 
> ...


Thanks Lew!


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

Betsy said:


> *Pattern routing and using carpet tape*
> 
> Well - it's been six months or so since I've been able to work in the shop. So I thought I would start with a project that I am very familiar with and knew I'd could do and be successful. Alas--another set of Adirondack chairs. I need a new set anyway.
> 
> ...


I second that Welcome Back, Betsy!
It will be nice to have your work back on the Projects forum.
Ellen


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## ND2ELK (Jan 25, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Pattern routing and using carpet tape*
> 
> Well - it's been six months or so since I've been able to work in the shop. So I thought I would start with a project that I am very familiar with and knew I'd could do and be successful. Alas--another set of Adirondack chairs. I need a new set anyway.
> 
> ...


Good idea. I am starting a 4 in 1 crib that has curved pieces in it. I might try to do something similar to this. Thanks for the inspiration.

God Bless
tom


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## woody57 (Jan 6, 2009)

Betsy said:


> *Pattern routing and using carpet tape*
> 
> Well - it's been six months or so since I've been able to work in the shop. So I thought I would start with a project that I am very familiar with and knew I'd could do and be successful. Alas--another set of Adirondack chairs. I need a new set anyway.
> 
> ...


great tip


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## rtb (Mar 26, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Pattern routing and using carpet tape*
> 
> Well - it's been six months or so since I've been able to work in the shop. So I thought I would start with a project that I am very familiar with and knew I'd could do and be successful. Alas--another set of Adirondack chairs. I need a new set anyway.
> 
> ...


welcome home !!


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Pattern routing and using carpet tape*
> 
> Well - it's been six months or so since I've been able to work in the shop. So I thought I would start with a project that I am very familiar with and knew I'd could do and be successful. Alas--another set of Adirondack chairs. I need a new set anyway.
> 
> ...


Thanks all. I'm glad to be back. I'm on a slow uptake but at least I'm off the couch and making dust again. Nothing better than that!


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