# Minwax polycrylic vs Deft clear wood



## smarge (Sep 6, 2012)

I hope that this isn't too "basic" of a question, but I'm very new to re-finishing furniture.

I've successfully gotten the old dark/muddy finish off of an old 60's danish modern rosewood table and I'm very confused about what kind of finish to put back on it. It will be in a kitchen and get a decent amount of use so I would want a finish that will protect the wood but still allow it to look good. I'm not going to stain it, just a clear coat of some kind to protect it.

The people at Lowed & Home Depot are no help at all. And the people at Woodcraft were too… "much" and the products they carry seemed pretty expensive.

I realize that there is probably not an "easy" simple answer, but from the research I've done (maybe I've read too much), I've kind of narrowed it down to these two products. 
thanks,
margaret

I'm just not sure which way to go and was hoping for some direction.


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## Doss (Mar 14, 2012)

The people at Woodcraft are most likely trying to get you on the right track. A great finish product is usually not cheap compared to the big box store finish products (I said usually, not always).

Maybe Waterlox or real tung oil. I would say Danish oil (which is cheap) followed by a few coats of wipe-on poly, but I'm not sure about that.

Are you sure it's rosewood? If it is, that could be the reason why they're (Woodcraft) steering you to a more expensive finish since it's a more valuable wood and I'm sure they'd want you to use something that would not only look great but also provide the protection you need. (Note: this is not my normal logic on retail sales (this paragraph's topic) but the finishes Woodcraft carries in general are going to be more expensive than most people who buy big box store products are going to be used to)

Hopefully that answer will work until the finish experts step in.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Maybe use the underside of the table for you practice piece.
Johnson paste wax can be used after the Watco Danish oil.
I like using Danish oil, let it set for a couple of days then use wax.
Deft clear wood works well also.
Minwax polycrylic gave okay results but wasn't a "natural" look to 
the wood, and that's subjective as well, kinda like a plastic look in a way.
Good luck.


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

Having refinished for a lot of years, I like the Danish oil + Johnson's paste wax solution. Did that many times, and although it will not be too glossy, it will be fairly waterproof, and you can always rewax it with more Johnson's over time with no real buildup.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Both Deft and Minwax waterborne products will serve you well if follow directions, and definitely do not rush recoat times. Definitely do not want to lay hot pots, coffee, or teacups directly on waterborne finished wood. Tablecloth may or may not be sufficient, so potholders for pots and saucers for cup a good idea. 
More familiar with Polycrylic WB finish never used Deft Clear WB Finish. I have used Deft brush on lacquer and like it. I know how to fix mistakes with brush on lacquer.

This is not a bad article chart alignment needs work.

http://dc105.4shared.com/doc/yFiM2bVC/preview.html

JMHO, not big fan of oil varnish blends for a table although easy to repair and because of need for re-application schedule. Before you decide to use oil varnish product read MSDS first.


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## WaltsWoodworks (Aug 28, 2012)

Minwax Poly is a nice finish to use, but it is not nearly as durable as the Deft Clear Brushing Laquer (also available in a spray can). Do not attempt to buff any of the Poly products! The shine/finish you get initially is as good as it will get; whereas, the Deft Laquer may be buffed and will stand up longer to use and handling.

I like both products, and they both have their uses, but for my purposes, I much prefer the Deft Laquer in a spray can. It even has an adjustable nozzle so you can change the fan shaped spray from horizontal to vertical. Because the Laquer has less solids, you should always use a sanding sealer with it, whereas a sealer is not needed with the poly products. The Deft sealer seems to be clear!

I have not used the Deft Laquer from a can, but I do have some on order for myself to use on a couple of my larger projects. I am told it is basically the same as the spray can stuff and "supposedly" self leveling.

Either the Poly or Laquer finishes in gloss will highlight any sanding marks or scratches so be careful to properly prepare the surface before application.

Walt


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

If it's a choice between those two, go with the Deft.
Personally, I would rush back to Woodcraft and get the right finish from General Finishes. It's worth the extra money.


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## smarge (Sep 6, 2012)

OK, so I went back to Woodcraft, spoke to "Stan" there and have decided to ditch the Deft & Minwax and go a different route.

I'm going to start with Zinsser Seal Coat (universal sanding sealer). one coat, sand lightly, then Watco Wipe-on Poly (satin), he suggested 4 coats.

What do you pros think???


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Excellent!
Although, I'd rather see you spray…lol


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