# Marquetry Cutting Styles



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

* Double Bevel or Conical Style*

*When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

*Double Bevel* Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

*In the first photo*, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.










*Here the pattern*, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.










*With the saw set *at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.










*Here the leaf* has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.










*When you finish* up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.










*Thanks for looking.*

Next time Boulle style

Paul


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## tdv (Dec 29, 2009)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


Thanks Paul all knowledge is good knowledge & you have plenty to share 
Best
Trevor


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## RogerBean (Apr 25, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


Paul,
I am following your marquetry posts with great interest. Many thanks for sharing the information.
Roger


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


wow! that is awesome


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


Paul,

Your blogs are always so informative. There are so many good details that we can pretend that we did it! (When we don't have your talent, we have to live vicariously!)

Thanks for helping us better understand the various methods.

L/W


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## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


Nicely and clearly explained Paul. Good stuff.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


Thank you Paul.


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


Thanks Paul.

Although I have red and red, you illustrations ties all of this together.

great blog. I am hoping there will be more.


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


Paul, Very informative and it had cleared my mind now why it is necessary to cut in an angle. Thanks.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


Thanks Paul,
You are a well of knowledge, and knowledge is good.

Steve


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


Great explanation. I remember trying that when I first got my scroll saw. It got real difficult for me once the shape got complex. I had to get out of the habit of wanting to cut everything straight and not perpendicular to the blade.

Thanks


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


Great tutorial, Paul. As usual, your pictures and explanations make the complex *appear* simple. 
As I so well know, the execution is another story entirely!
Looking forward to the next installment.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments. I noticed soon after I started writing this blog that describing double bevel marquetry is a lot harder than doing it. Boulle and classic aren't going to be any easier.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


*shipwright* - This might help. A picture is worth 1000 words.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


Good one Gary. I've got the photo upload figured out but aside from photographing sketches, I haven't got the graphic upload figured out yet.

Thanks for the help.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


That was just a quick autocad drawing I whipped up and printed to a jpg file, so it wasn't any different than a picture upload.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


My autocad has an eraser on one end.
Thanks.


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## Randy63 (Jun 25, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Double Bevel or Conical Style*
> 
> *When I posted* the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.
> 
> ...


Great blog on marquetry. Lots of valuable info. Look forward to your next segments.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Boulle Style*

*This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways. 
In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
Also in both these styles cutting is done in a "packet" of veneers rather than piece by piece as is done in double bevel. This results in several pieces of identical shape on each cut.

*In Boulle style marquetry* a packet is assembled with one layer in each of the colors that will appear in the finished motif.










*The pattern is affixed* to the top of the packet and the cutting is performed at 90 degrees resulting in one piece in each color, of each shape..



















*The primary motif* is assembled in it's field veneer, which was one of the layers in the packet. At this point it will appear backwards because it is always assembled glue side up and is held together by veneer tape or a backing paper on the good side.










*After the first motif* is assembled there will be enough pieces left over to make as many more motifs as you used layers. This is not always a very useful set of parts. In motifs like the albatross here, you'll only get one that looks real. The others may not resemble anything to be found in nature.










*On the other hand* if you are doing a geometric pattern or a graphic, both or all may be useful. It was common in the eighteenth century to make a "contre-parte" piece with the negative pattern. That is why you sometimes see pictures of two tables, for example, that are almost identical but one is dark on light and the other is light on dark.










*Boulle style cutting* almost always means that you will have a saw kerf, but with the extremely small jewelers' blades used for this work and the judicious use of a little appropriately colored putty, they are very easy to hide. I say almost because in some motifs, particularly geometrics, it is possible to "compress" the pieces. In this case however the field piece, if there is one, must be cut separately.










*That's it for Boulle style*. This has not been nor was it meant to be a definitive "how to" on the style, just a description to distinguish it from the others.

Thanks for looking in.

Next time the* Classic style*, where you really have to be good.

Paul


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## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


Impressive. I like it. Very nicely done.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


That helped Paul. I have been asking myself "what about the saw kerf?" for a while. Are the jewelers blades easy to find?


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


Sweet.
OK, couple of questions, which you may have already answered but I missed:

Is there an entry cut from the side, or do you drill a really small hole for blade entry?

I guess you have to make sure to cut from the inside out, as it seems impossible (or at least frustrating) to remount a really small piece and cut it in half. (?)

How the heck do you glue up these things?

What kind of blades, and where do you buy them? Is the definition of "jeweler's" enough? A quick look at Amazon reveals large count packages. Do they break that easy on veneer?

Thanks,
Steve


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## prometej065 (Apr 25, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


Excellent Paul ..
educational, but above all, charming and with a sense of motivation and talent done in!
Intriguing is wait your new works!


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


*Steve and, well, Steve*, jewelers' blades are not that hard to find. They are designated opposite to fret saw blades ie: 2.0 as opposed to 0.2. the larger the number the smaller the blade, vice versa for scroll blades as I understand it. 
I buy mine from Patrick Edwards at ASFM in quantity because, yes they do break, especially the 60 tooth ones used in fine work (that albatross has a different colored eye in each motif).

Blade starts in a very tiny hole and yes you have to watch what you cut first. I cut the albatross from the top to the bottom and only needed two holes, one for the eye and the other got me the rest.

Carefully.

Thanks Dusan


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


Hi Paul, and thanks for educating us on these techniques. I've read a bit about them, but so far I have only tried the double bevel method, and that with relatively thick pieces like 2mm. I like the double bevel method, but tiny details seem pretty difficult to me since you can only revolve the work in one direction to get the appropriate angle (towards the center or towards the outside) and that isn't always the optimal direction for the cut. I'm wondering if the Boulle method overcomes this disadvantage and if that is the main advantage to it besides being able to create several different colors of the pattern? I use my scroll saw with variable speed for this type of work.

The Boulle work shown here looks really very good to me.


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## LittlePaw (Dec 21, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


It is amazing what you do, Paul. I am one of those that love marquetry and sit and look at it and look at it and even dream about it. But as for me doing it, well maybe someday. I love to see what you do with it. They are wonderful!


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## peteg (Sep 2, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


Paul, I am not into Marquetry (at present) but if ever I wish to have a go I know whoes door I will be knocking on for some lessons, )


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


Thanks Paul, I learn something every time you post.


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


Paul,

Another great post! We're learning alot here.

L/W


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


Paul, You gave me an idea on my parquetry work. I normally glued to colors of wood… cut it then flip it. This time I can make thicker and just temporarily stick it (maybe with double sided tape) then cut… I can make two projects in just one cutting labor.. Thanks


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


Thanks Paul.

It's great to read your blog. Lots of info.


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## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


Nice Paul. Thanks for sharing this


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


Very nicely presented, Paul.

Lee


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


cool


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## Randy63 (Jun 25, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Boulle Style*
> 
> *This style is named *for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
> In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
> ...


Great series on Marquetry cutting styles, am enjoying this immensley. I'm wondering if I can see things that small with my trifocals and maybe even a magnifying glass. Thanks for sharing the information.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Classic Style*

*The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.

*The first step* as in other styles is to produce a drawing segmented into the pieces you want to cut. I did this one from a photo. The various segments are numbered to indicate the veneer used for that piece.










*In Classic Style* the next step is to assemble packets, in my case here, of six layers of one veneer. This is a packet of shop cut Holly. It has been fastened with marquetry pins and it's edges have been taped to further compact it. A segment of the drawing which includes several holly parts has been attached to it with spray glue.










*When one of the elements* is cut, again with the saw blade at exactly 90 degrees, six identical elements are produced.



















*The other packets *are cut one by one until all the elements are cut and ready to assemble.



















*This photo shows* the difference between the results of the Boulle cut motif in the last blog entry and this one cut in Classic Style. The pros for Classic Style are obvious. The big con is simply that as each piece is separately cut, the perfect fits guaranteed by the other styles are no longer a given. In theory anyway, in Classic Style, you cut the outside half of the line on the internal part and the inside half of the line when cutting the field.* IF* you can do this, you get another pro in that unlike the Boulle Style there will be no saw kerf. This was my first try and I can tell you that it is not easy. I have lots of gaps…..but I learned something and I will improve.










*I have used one* other method of cutting marquetry using a router and an inlay bushing set. It is detailed here: http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/18834 It too has it's advantages, particularly for very large projects and in places where the pattern facilitates repetitive cuts.

*All these methods* and the knife methods (See Dennis Zongker's blog: http://lumberjocks.com/DennisLeeZongker/blog/23802 ) have their advantages and disadvantages. They can be used alone or in conjunction with each other. It all works.

*Edit*: I've added another segment,"Painting in Wood" style following in the another segment of the blog.

I hope that this has cleared up some of the terminology confusion around marquetry styles .

Thanks for looking in.

Paul


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


Thank you for taking the time to do this Paul, it has helped my understanding no end.


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


Paul,
Amazing Chevalet in the hands of a master like you. The cuts are so precise! Unbelievable. I was thinking it was painted and not marquetry. Keep it going. I am learning so fast but not doing it. I tried with knife one time but the veneer easily splits into its grain. Maybe the veneer I am using it not as good quality you are using. 
Thanks for the very imformative and easy to understand blogs.


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## twokidsnosleep (Apr 5, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


Holy smokes that takes talent and attention to detail; you are incredibly skilled!
My OCD is best left at work


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## Billp (Nov 25, 2006)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


Paul your blog is great, I have read alot of books on Marquetry and your blog is as complete as any thing I have read. Thank you for taking the time to share your skills with us. i want to build myself a chevelet as soon as I get a chance to work on something for me instead of the rest of the family. thanks again.


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## HorstPeter (Aug 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


Big thanks for these blog entries. They gave a good overview of the techniques out there and their results.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


Thanks Paul, very interesting and informative and a great job on the ship marquetry too.


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## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


So not one but a whole fleet in one go. Thanks for the tutorial, Paul.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


Yes Martyn, If the Spanish had known about this before the battle of Trafalgar, you might be speaking a different language.


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## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


Looks like you are also making good use of your Chevalet. Thanks for the explanation.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


my gosh! yer like a marquetry god


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


Paul,

Now that we know all these methods, we need to practice, practice, practice if we are ever to come close to your expertise.

L/W


----------



## sedcokid (Jul 19, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


What time this took….. Thanks for the explanation, Great Job!!

Thanks for sharing


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


Wonderful job on this Paul….. I admire your patience in writing this up


----------



## larryw (Feb 10, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


wonderful job , and explanation Paul . I have to say again,(and " autumn" will probably vouch for this.), the cutting process is similar to cutting pearl , sans the packet cutting and chevalet.Cutting half the line on the pattern or drawing is difficult, especially when you have to try and keep the jewelers saw at 90 degrees, but as you said, it eliminates the saw kerf.The beauty of your chevalet,is that it keeps your cut at 90 degrees to the surface. Thanks for posting


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


Thanks for posting this Paul. Very fascinating. Your blog is concise, clear, and to the point. Thanks for sharing part of your vast knowledge. My brain just grew a bit.


----------



## Randy63 (Jun 25, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Classic Style*
> 
> *The Classic Style* is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.
> 
> ...


I apprecaite your efforts to detail these different methods. The chevalet you built is an amazing tool. I want to try some marquetry on some of my boxes, so this info will be very helpful.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*"Painting in Wood"*

*At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.

*The "Painting in Wood" style* of marquetry cutting dates to early 17th century France and gets its name from the relationship of the typical subject material to the work of the painters of the period. The brightly colored baskets of fruit and flowers typical of many pieces of this period are examples of this style.

In terms of actual cutting, painting in wood is similar to Boulle style in that all colors are stack cut at one time together with the background. The difference is found in the way the packet is assembled and the product that is ultimately created.

In Boulle style you may remember, the packet was assembled of full sheets of each color and the result was several similar motifs with "mix and match" colored elements. This was an efficient use of veneer if the product was to be a geometric or graphic pattern where colors were not critical. Often both the positive and negative motifs were used and no waste at all was left over.










*However if the subject* matter was color critical as in an object from nature like a plant, flower or animal the Boulle style would produce a lot of waste veneer.










*As the typical motifs* found in painting in wood pieces are both color critical and often quite large, a more material economical method of packet assembly was needed. The answer was to make the packet layers out of pieced together bits of the required veneers and to fill the unused spaces with a cheap waste veneer, often softwood. Pictures will describe this better than words. I apologize for my picture taking sequence here. I didn't think to photograph the layers until after the cutting was done but they will show the process just as well.

*The following* are the six layers I used to cut this motif. It is a very tricky process to make sure you have all the colors you want, where you want them, somewhere on one of the layers. I'm very new at this style and I'm sure a more experienced marquetreur would be more efficient but I think you will get the idea.










*This photo * shows an area of Bloodwood, some Amaranth (Purpleheart) and three small areas of dyed black. The "waste" veneer on all layers is some paper backed Walnut that I have a quite a bit of lying around.










*The second* shows the dyed yellow that will be the flowers and the Poplar that will be the sash and the bow.










*This one* has the dyed green for the leaves and some more black.










*The last* of the black










*The Mahogany* for the flutes










*And finally* the Birdseye Maple for the ground.

*When the cutting* is finished, there remains only one motif but with much less waste than if the layers had been solid sheets of each required veneer species. Please excuse this last photo. The pieces are just placed together and some are a bit curled.










*That's one more covered. Thanks for looking.*

As always comments, critiques and questions are encouraged.

Paul


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


I've said it before, I'll say it again. I am so amazed by your talent. I wish I could learn to do what you do so very well. Thanks for giving some further insight to the world of marquetry


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


wow Paul That's one amazing work of art. Beautiful.


----------



## larryw (Feb 10, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


Paul, I'm always amazed by your marquetry skills. You seem to be the master in all styles of marquetry.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


well i think i sorta see how this is done, but the very small ones, like the white ring around the instrument…im not sure Paul…lol…..maybe you need to make a grizz carrier that can go next to Lucy for your trip back home, so i can come along and see if i can learn this…lol…would Lucy mind…ps, ok wrong color, its yellow, and…wow this is tedious work…


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


Paul, thank you very much for taking the time to take those pictures during the Marquetry process!

AWESOME!

It's truly amazing how that can be done…

Thanks again.


----------



## SisQMark (Apr 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


A remarkable art form you have mastered quite gracefully Paul. Whenever I need some inspiration I just look at your projects. Your work is masterful & your skill is second to none. Thank you for sharing your talent with us, it gives us a higher appreciation for this art form.
Mark~


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


Hey Paul,

Beautiful work!

You're a master.

Lee


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


You are an artist. Keep posting these as they are the epitome of wood artistry.


----------



## longgone (May 5, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


Absolutely fantastic…Definitely an art and you have learned it quite well.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


Beautiful work Paul. Your progress with this marquetry work is truly amazing. I have seen this technique before as demonstrated in the last FWW issue by Paul Shurchz (maybe misspelled name). I wouldn't mind trying this some time on my scroll saw, but it is probably better done with a Chevalet like yours. Do you think a no. 2 blade is small enough for this kind of work?


----------



## ShipWreck (Feb 16, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


It makes my head hurt to think of the patience it takes to do this type of artistry.

Beautiful work.

V/R….John


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the clear explanation. This series is a great resource.


----------



## HalDougherty (Jul 15, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


That's beautiful! I'm always impressed by your attention to detail.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


Very beautiful, tedious, and just amazing. Thnx for the explanation


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


Sweet!
You've got mad artistic skills. Patience I can do, but wow, I have trouble doing a curved line. I can really appreciate the work that goes into this.

Very nice Paul, thanks.
Steve


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the kind words everyone.

*Griz*, The small ones are actually the little pieces of black in the flutes' finger holes ;-)
Sorry, I'm back home already.

*Mike,* If you mean a 0/2 scrollsaw blade, that would be a bit too big. You want a 2/0 or finer jeweler's blade. They number the opposite of scroll blades, ie: the higher the number = the thinner the blade. 
Paul Schurch is just one of the many fine marqueteurs that inspire me with their work.

*John, Hal, Roger*, I agree that this work looks tedious and taxing on the patience but in fact it is like any other process, a series of steps and when broken down is easier than it looks.

This piece of marquetry only involved about 13 or 14 hours of work: about three hours in inkscape, two or three hours to prepare the veneer and assemble the packet, and about eight to cut it. During five of the cutting hours I was talking to lots of people at an art demonstration so six hours would be more realistic for cutting. I'm not that patient. Don't go giving me too much credit.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


The first time I ever saw Marquetry demonstrated was by Jerry Cousins:
*
A bird...

A Morning Glory flower...

Other unusual projects...
*
... another master of the craft…

*True artistry… not just a woodworking technique…*


----------



## tsangell (Jan 10, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


When I got to the "punchline," I said it out loud - Wow. That is cool.


----------



## justoneofme (Aug 11, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


Hi Paul: At last, a chance to read up on all the different styles of cutting for Marquetry. You've done an excellent job of explaining the differences between the styles. All have uniqueness and complexity to them, but as you've shown … all can be mastered given time, practice and most importantly … patience!!

It was great going through your 'technical trip' down that historical lane again too!


----------



## tomd (Jan 29, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


Beautiful marquetry, I am giving you credit, great work.


----------



## MNedman (Dec 1, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


Great blog entry Paul! You have definitely mastered this technique as well as the others. Can't wait to see that motif shaded and mounted. Awesome!


----------



## prometej065 (Apr 25, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


There are two very interesting facts in your blog Paul - its educational function, where you can see how dedicated the rules of this beautiful traditional techniques.
And of course, the final effect of completing the Marquetry motif .. in which to finally see how much you have obviously mastered the beauty of this technique!
With pleasure waiting to see your new works.


----------



## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


As always, Paul, a beautiful posting of exceedingly great workmanship.

For those wishing a good tutorial series to get started in marquetry, I refer them to:

www.redbridgemarquetrygroup.org

Redbridge is a group that has been turning out prize winning marqueteers for over 60 years. They're in Great Britain, so a few of the terms used take a bit of translating, but their executives are happy to reply to an email inquiry.

Paul


----------



## becikeja (Sep 12, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


This is awesome.


----------



## Kookaburra (Apr 23, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


This is a great series - thank you. I must have been too new to catch on when I first signed up (I did not read many blogs to start with). Very clear explanations and great illustrative photos. I understand so much more than I did an hour ago! Now I am trying to guess which technique was used on the antique table I have.


----------



## jonsprague0000 (Jan 18, 2014)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


Great piece! How did you do the very thin lines inside the ribbon and making up the flower pedals? They almost look too small to be a separate piece of inlay.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *"Painting in Wood"*
> 
> *At last I have photos* to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.
> 
> ...


They are called in graving lines as in the day the parts were often metal, brass or pewter. They are, in this case, just saw cuts.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*

*In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.

*This is accomplished* by replacing the sacrificial jaw parts with new pieces cut at the desired angle. Obviously this has limitations in the area of veneer thickness. As the veneer becomes thinner, the angle becomes steeper and you can only go so far without the body of the chevalet getting in the way. The experiment here was done with 1/16" veneer so the angle wasn't too steep.










*Like square cutting* a small adjustment can be made using the adjusters on the carriage.










*Cutting is set up* the same as for the scrollsaw and is cut on the chevalet as any other chevalet piece except that the usual stiff packet cannot be employed. That creates problems that in my opinion negate any advantages that the reduced kerf might offer.










*This is the result* of the experiment. The kerfs are gone but the final effect is no better IMHO and the process took longer. For anyone who read my Chickadee Tray post, this was the first iteration of the motif. My wife, for whom it was being made thought the background was too busy and neither of us could live with the "cartoon" chickadees. I copied them from a Christmas card and they'd be fine in a cartoon scene, but they just plain didn't work here. This one will languish on a shelf in the marquetry shop until I throw it out…. Oh well.










That's it for now, Thanks for looking.

Questions, comments and critiques are always welcome.

Paul


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


Paul your work is great and to take the time to share what you know in a blog is a wonderful gift to give to others.
Merry Christmas to you and yours.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


Looks good, Paul…

I've been meaning to ask… Not too long ago, I saw a cool article on Marquetry…
The style of the work looked very much like yours…
ShopNotes & WoodSmith does not include the Authors' name…
(Crazy… 1st time I ever noticed it!)

Just wondering… Have you written any articles on Marquetry lately… or had one published lately?

Thank you.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


Putit on the shop wall? Nice tutorial! And showing that even a master's work doesn't always turn out! Merry Christmas.


----------



## DennisLeeZongker (Jul 25, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


Hi Paul, It's great to see you creating marquetry. I love your passion for the craft and how you have evolved since I have known you here on LJ's. I am looking forward to many years of your creations.

I'm finally done with my book and am moving on to new adventures. The book will be out in book stores in August 2013. I'm a little nervous and excited it still seams like forever until it's finally out there.

Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year to you. I wish you many happy years of woodworking.


----------



## MNedman (Dec 1, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


There you go again Paul…blazing new trails for us and proving that conical cutting can be done on the chevalet. I personally quite like this piece, and would urge you to at least press it onto a panel and hang it on a wall. It's far too nice to just sit on a shelf!

Mat


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


Hey Paul, if you throw it out, I'll take it. That is some nice work that I'll never be able to do!


----------



## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


That's a pitty because the overal scene is really good. I can give you a street address to which send it if it takes up too much room for you…


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


I too appreciate your time and the gift of sharing what you know how to do so expertly. You are the Marquetry Man.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


Thanks everyone. Always glad to share a little experience. I'm thinking I may over-cut the areas where the birds are with some leaves or something… maybe larger birds… eagles? hawks? maybe herons.

*Dennis*, I'm among the many awaiting the entry of your book onto the market.

*Joe*, Sorry that wasn't me.

Merry Christmas all.


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


Splendid work, Paul. I particularly like the burl choice for the landscape.


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


Merry Christmas all.

Excellent work as usual.

Paul, I understand, once the vertical and horizontal adjustments are good you don't want to change them.
(I must confess I did not really completely understood the trick of the keyhole cut to make the adjustments.)

Isn't it possible to make conical cut by changing the horizontal adjustment a little bit instead of changing the jaws?


----------



## GnarlyErik (Jul 22, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


Paul, dagnab it! Now I've gone and done it for sure. I made the mistake of checking out your blog entries on marquetry after reading a little about your work and now I am immensely intrigued. I have already greatly admired your 'Oops!' project. But first, let me say what an artist you are - my heavens, what talent! My feeble attempts at doing 'artistic' work look juvenile next to yours, such lovely and artistic things you are doing.

So . . . . . now, I have started thinking about trying my hand at some of this marquetry stuff too - and that likely means building one of those dagnab chevalet machines eventually, though I am not quite ready to go that route yet. I think I understand the concept well enough, and can see how these things can make very precise cuts if carefully built. I do a little intarsia now and then on the scroll saw, and some layered bevel cutting, but nothing on the order of what you are doing. The idea of essentially kerf-less marquetry is very intriguing. First things first though. I will order a book, some veneer and some piecing blades for my fret saw to give this stuff a whirl.

Wow! What a talent you have developed! By the by, there is a tug operating out of Ketchikan, Alaska named 'Le Cheval Rouge' with a big rearing, red horse painted on her stack. The marquetry machine name instantly called that to my mind!

Cheers,
Erik


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


A lot of great things were said in the above comments and I fully agree.

This is simply beautifull.

Merry christmas Paul!


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


*Sylvain*, The adjusters on a chevalet are only for fine tuning. 
They will only alter the angle by a degree or two. 
These jaws are the gross angle for 1/16" veneer but can still be fine tuned by the chevalet adjusters.

*Erik*, Glad to hear you're interested in marquetry. I hear ex-boatbuilders can be retrained to it reasonably easily.


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


Paul, Merry Christmas! Everytime you introduce something, it is really worth to learn. Thanks.


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## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


Fantastic demo Paul.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


Another excellent blog Paul. You have certainly enriched our membership with your presence here on LJ. I'm pretty darn sure you will do a great job in saving that nice piece of art. It would be a shame to just chuck it. I am now wondering what you will bring to us in the new year!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


Paul your skils are amazing.
You are a trasure to all that work with this.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Conical Cutting on the Chevalet*
> 
> *In the segment* on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.
> 
> ...


Very nice man!


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*

*I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.

*My project requires* about 48" of guilloche about 2" high. (I am using one of the free patterns from craftsmanspace.com.) To get the length I need I will require around 30 repetitions of the basic pattern. I assembled packets of eight layers each of Cherry and Holly and one of only four layers of Zircote. Cutting four pattern segments in Cherry and eight in Zircote will give me 32 pieces of each. The Holly is doubled in the pattern so I will need to cut eight segments, each eight layers deep.

*This is the Cherry* packet about to be assembled. On the left are the eight pieces of veneer and on the right is the 1/8" plywood backer and a sheet of grease paper. The grease paper goes next to the backer and then each piece of veneer gets individually taped on top.










*When the last veneer* is taped on (one short tab of tape on each edge), the edges are taped with one long piece each.
Here are the three packets, all assembled.










*Next, pieces of* the guilloche pattern are cut out and fitted on the packets.










*The grain orientation* is marked on one pattern piece, to be glued on first.










*The pieces of pattern* are glued on the packets with hot hide glue.










*Then the packet* is tightened and reinforced by adding strategically placed veneer nails.










*These tiny nails* are driven through, cut off and riveted on the back. The riveted over end should be very small so as not to interfere with the blade.










*The great thing* about this style is that after cutting one piece of pattern I have eight pieces of my guilloche. The top one is white because it has the pattern on it and you can see the backer and grease paper on the left.










*It takes almost* no time to cut all the pieces.










*Here is where* the day ended up. This is a dry fit on tape to check how I'm doing. I will be doing some sand shading before final assembly and I will orient all those little circles better then as well.










*I may post* about the project elsewhere but this is it for the part that is relevant to this blog so I guess that's a wrap.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


COOL!


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## tinnman65 (Jan 19, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


Looks great Paul, I look forward to seeing what this is going to be used on. Are these cut on 1/42 veneer or are they the thicker veneers?


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


Always an interesting post by you Paul.


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## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


Nice work Paul, your light years ahead of me.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


They aren't my thick veneers Paul, but they are .61mm (1/32") so they aren't the really thin stuff.


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## tomd (Jan 29, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


That's some really accurate cutting, looks terrific already.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


That is so cool. Never thought of using this for repeating pattern.
A light bulb is on top of my head right now.

Steve


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


Great stuff Paul. I'm really amazed at how well the pieces fit, especially considering that they were all cut from separate bits of the pattern. You are really good at this! The pattern is also a very good looking one. I'll be watching this blog with great interest.

Meanwhile I'm busy building my chevy. I'm gluing up the main column today and cutting the joinery for the seat. I plan to glue up the column foot and the long horizontal arm tomorrow. It's all fun work.


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## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


Good to see you back cutting marquetry and our passion shows .
Now I wonder where this leads to, it's a wonderful pattern .


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## Patricelejeune (Feb 21, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


Nice going. This is on of the challenges that students face in there second or third year in ecole Boulle. You did very well, the filet seems very regular.

The way it is traditionally done is slightly different. I am just pointing it out as I know you are interested. As the veneer was expensive, and they wanted to save as much as possible, the filet where string inlay, also this provides automatically a regular width, so no crazy cutting involved.

But I like the challenge of a nice cut, and those cut "string inlay" look top.


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## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


Paul, that is amazing. Veneer nails, never would have thought…


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


As always, very nice work Paul.

Lee


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


Thanks everyone,

*Patrice*, thanks. They aren't as good as they look in the pictures but as an experiment to get the hang of repetitive patterns, I am happy enough. I can see how pre-bent string inlay would really clean it up. My mistakes are all in the area of slight unevenness (oversize) in the fillet. I hope to shade for three dimensional look and am using a Zircote background so my mastic should hide many sins. 
When I think I'm good enough maybe I'll try it with my thick veneer. I will bend some string then.


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## justoneofme (Aug 11, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


It really does look totally cool Paul! Of course you see the discrepancies being so close and critical … but aren't we all when viewing our own work?! It looks great!!


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


I have never done any Marquetry and I now know why, it is way out of my league! I don't have the tools and/or skills that are required to even attempt this!

I like your work and I wish I had even your little finger nail of skill to do this!


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## HuckD (Sep 15, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


Very nice work Paul! Thanks for the write up and pictures. I'm constantly amazed at what true artists can do.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


Simply amazing!
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


Paul - outstanding!

About want temp do you do the sand shading?


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


*David*, around 600 degrees F. according to Pierre Ramond (Marquetry) but I don't actually check with a thermometer. I just heat it until it shades veneer and then try to maintain it there. As it turns out that's just under the max heat my hotplate can turn out. I included some sand shading photos in this blog entry if you want to have a look.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


Thank you - will do.


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## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


Geezz Paul, You are so amazingly good at this stuff. You continue to inspire and motivate me. I have been looking over my stash of lumber to find materials to build a chevy. Thanks for the kick in the pants!


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece*
> 
> *I was doing* a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.
> 
> ...


thats pretty cool!


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