# Adirondack Chair Finishing



## Joel89 (Jun 8, 2012)

Hello,
I am a novice woodworker and in need of some experienced advice. I built this adirondack chair set out of untreated ponderosa pine, which i realize is certainly not the best outdoor wood to use, but it was cheap, easy to cut, and like I said, I'm a newb, so I don't know entirely what I'm doing when it comes to building furniture anyway. So that leads me to this post. I need advice about how to finish the chairs. They will be on a covered patio getting about 4 hours of sunlight a day, but I'm in the navy so who knows what conditions they'll be in in another 3 years. I want to stain them to bring out the grain, so painting is out. I know I need water and UV protection, but the best way to achieve that I don't know. I don't have a sprayer or anything, so I'd be wiping the finish on with a cloth or a brush. I was initially leaning towards a spar varnish, but the space between the slats is tight making it pretty difficult to smoothly coat everything with the varnish. I was looking at oil finishes too but I don't completely understand the level of protection it provides. Then last night on this sight I found out about "One Time Wood Protector", which seems like a great product, but some of the user reviews I found on the internet were a bit iffy. Lastly, there's also products like Thompsons Water sealer… Bottom line, the more research I've done, the more I've gotten confused. Could you please give me your suggestions and please be as specific as possible concerning the actual product you would use. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!!


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I just refinished some older Adirondack chairs made of pine and using one of my favorite home made finishes. One third spar varnish, one third boiled linseed oil (BLO) and one third mineral spirits. You get UV protection from the spar varnish and increased flexibility from the BLO the mineral spirits makes it thin so it penetrates well and is easy to apply w/ a brush and will run into the spaces between the slats. You can cut back on the mineral spirits for subsequent coats but I like the initial coat to be real thin so that the wood drinks it in deeply. You also get a little color from the varnish and BLO. I pay special attention to all of the end grain areas and really go over them w/ several coats as the cells really drink in the finish and helps to seal out future moisture.


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

I'm with Bondo! Good advice. I would still spray it.


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## HerbC (Jul 28, 2010)

Coat the bottom of the legs with clear epoxy to protect them from "wicking" up water when the ground or floor is wet…

Thanks for your service to our country.

Be Careful…

Herb 
EMC (SW) USN


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## Joel89 (Jun 8, 2012)

Bondo,
I've heard people talk about that 3 part finish in other forums as well. Can I still stain the wood before applying it or does the finish serve as a stain as well? Do you happen to have any pics of the chairs you refinished? I'd love to see how it looks. Lastly, any particular spar varnish you recommend? Thanks so much for the help and thanks to the other guys as well for the useful information.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I used Australian Timber Oil on the latest one I built, then spar semi-gloss over it to bring the grain back out. Two coats of pre color conditioner first.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

They look really nice, it's the popular mechanics plan I believe. I made that one my very first time.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I didn't take any pictures and unfortunately they are over 100 miles away from where I live. I like Cabot Spar Varnish, I get it at Lowe's. Pine is notorious for staining blotchy. So I would use the 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 mix for the first coat. Then I would mix a second batch w/ 1/3 Spar, 1/3 BLO and 1/6 mineral spirits and 1/6 stain for the second coat. Make sure whatever stain you use is is an oil base stain, It is going to be diluted by this mixture so it is going to come out lighter than the product label says, take that into account. I highly recommend that you experiment on some scraps to get the effect that you like and don't be afraid mess w/ the formula to achieve the desired effect. Personally I prefer not to stain pine, but that is just my taste.


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## Joel89 (Jun 8, 2012)

Russell, 
Thanks for the input. Your furniture looks great, and it sounds like you use a similar technique as others have stated here with oil and spar varnish to finish. Did you apply the varnish with a sprayer or a brush? Yes, my chairs are the popular mechanics plan, and they are my first chairs as well.

Bondo,
Thanks for answering my questions. I would not have thought to mix the stain in with the original mixture. I'll definitely experiment on some scraps, but I'm excited to try it out!


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I use a sprayer with spar.


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## JR_Dog (Jan 18, 2012)

Joel,

I don't have any info for you but I wanted to take a few extra minutes and say thanks for posting these questions. I"m building a few of these as we speak and was wondering the same things. So thanks for asking and thanks to the ones that responded your experience and feedback goes a long way.


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## Joel89 (Jun 8, 2012)

JR,
Glad you could gain some insight from this thread as I certainly have. I've just finished applying the last coat of finish, so I'll post some pics soon so you can see the results.


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## Joel89 (Jun 8, 2012)

Sorry it took me so long to get a few pics posted, but here's the finished product:


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## RichInSoMD (Jan 16, 2012)

What did you end up using to finish them?


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## Joel89 (Jun 8, 2012)

Good questions. Should have included that info with the pics. I went with Bondo's recommendation: 1/3 spar (Cabot high gloss), 1/3 BLO, and 1/3 mineral spirits. I applied 4 coats total. I planned on doing several more coats, but the 4th coat took nearly 3 days to dry so I didn't think the additional coats with BLO would take very well. It ended up being a very close-to-the-wood finish. There is not really a distinguishable protective layer over the wood as most of it seeped down in to the pores. Even with the high gloss finish on the spar, the chairs have a nice satin look which I like. Had I done one or two more coats, I'm sure the gloss would have shown through more.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Next time, try making them out of red cedar. They look a bit more rustic and people really seem to like them. I've sold 4 chairs this past week. You may want to consider using one screw instead of two on the lower back.


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## RichInSoMD (Jan 16, 2012)

Joel,

Maybe the BLO was just staying on the surface after three coats. I suppose if you wanted a glossier finish you could have applied another coat of just the Cabot High Gloss. The chairs look great.


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## Libby721 (Sep 19, 2012)

Joel, I am looking to build a set of adirondack chairs. Are you willing to share the plan. I am new to this also and thought I would try my hand at these for a friend of mine's birthday.I also had a lot of questions about what type of wood to use and how to make them weather proof.

They would be outside and I would love to paint them or stain them then add some lettering to them. Any advice you can provide would be great! Thank you!


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## BHolcombe (Sep 19, 2012)

I've had success with waterlox marine finish applied in a wipe-on fashion used in combination with waterlox sealer. I did so on a Padauk table that has maintained color while sending a few hours per day in direct sunlight. Most other finishes were dust in 2-3 months with this sort of use.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

Chairs look great Joel…

I hope to make a set someday too.


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## rusticderek (Jan 18, 2014)

rustolium clear coat. three coats total. then dull the luster with paste wax applied with 0000 steel wool.


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## anthm27 (May 12, 2015)

Hi Joel, not sure if you are still about.
Chairs look great to me, How are they looking 3 and a half years later?
I would like to make them myself, do you remember where you got the plans?
The little table also looks great.
Regards
Anthm


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