# Looking to make plans to replicate



## kanihoncho (Dec 26, 2009)

I am a journeyman woodworker. I would like to replicate this closet system. How would you join the small side pieces to the vertical rails? Dowels?

1. Also, can anyone recommend a good source of furniture assembly hardware?

Thanks in Advance,

Kanihoncho


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## lumbering_on (Jan 21, 2017)

You seem to have forgotten to post the design you are referring to.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

The companies that build these systems all the time use knock down hardware like these.

https://woodworker.com/15mm-x-125mm-kd-cams-mssu-866-497.asp

https://www.artisticwoodstudio.com/videos


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Here's how they work.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Journeyman?????


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## kanihoncho (Dec 26, 2009)

DOH!

Looking to build the sides of this system first.

Journeyman - I know my way around hand and power tools, built a bench for my friend's wine shop. I mostly carve wood boat hulls . . .


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Do you want to make the hanger section with the shelves or the sides of the drawered unit?


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## kanihoncho (Dec 26, 2009)

I plan on recreating the whole thing. I think using those knock down items on those slatted pieces would be expensive and unsightly. I have plenty of time to recreate this so I'm thinking dowels. I don't think biscuits would provide enough strength in this application . . . Perhaps a groove in the rails and then small dowels through the rails into tenons on the slats?


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Yes, the knockdown hardware is not attractive personality dowels are not my favorite and are not that strong, have you considered using loose tenons?


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Looks like shutters are used for the partitions. or they could be slats.

That would be a perfect job for a Festool Domino.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I thought they where shutters too but looking closer I noticed the slats are flat and not at an angle like shutters.
I think if I built the sides I would have one long groove on the side corner pieces and place little spacers in the groove between each slat otherwise you have to mortise for each slat, not impossible but time-consuming.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

The long groove would be a nice detail a1Jim.

It looks like the top drawer doesn't have a left side like it was a pull out instead of a boxed drawer,
interesting look nonetheless.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

My guess is that the photo is computer generated and they forgot to make it look like the top drawer has a left side


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## Bill_Steele (Aug 29, 2013)

It looks to me like the horizontal side pieces are supported by wooden brackets (probably held up with screws in drywall anchors) AND some sort of bracket (notice the small square at the end of each horizontal piece) that ties the ends to the drywall and the center section. I assume you could either buy this bracket or make something comparable.


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## lumbering_on (Jan 21, 2017)

> It looks to me like the horizontal side pieces are supported by wooden brackets (probably held up with screws in drywall anchors) AND some sort of bracket (notice the small square at the end of each horizontal piece) that ties the ends to the drywall and the center section. I assume you could either buy this bracket or make something comparable.
> 
> - Bill_Steele


I see the same way, only I don't know if the metal brackets near the centre section would need to be attached to the wall. Seems they are more decorative as the wooden brackets should be more than capable of handling anything you put on it.


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## Bill_Steele (Aug 29, 2013)

> It looks to me like the horizontal side pieces are supported by wooden brackets (probably held up with screws in drywall anchors) AND some sort of bracket (notice the small square at the end of each horizontal piece) that ties the ends to the drywall and the center section. I assume you could either buy this bracket or make something comparable.
> 
> - BillSteele
> 
> ...


I think the wooden brackets are enough to hold up the shelf and its contents. My guess is that the metal brackets on the ends (drywall and center section) help brace the shelves from racking. They also support the center section from moving by making a solid connection into the wall.

If you wanted I think you could get away with just having the shelves floating-not connected to the drywall or center section-at their ends.


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## Snipes (Apr 3, 2012)

What is your span? does it need to be adjustable? You maybe don't need the center brackets, use cleats on the end.
I think build your center cabinet first, as you would any other cabinet (deeper than your side shelfs).


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

Another way


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I think "J"s approach is a good one if you have a radial arm saw that a dado blade can be put on or with a router set up it might make cleaner cuts it all depends on what look you want.


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## kanihoncho (Dec 26, 2009)

The span is a double closet that has two sets of bifold door. I don't have the measurements handy. I would not have adjustable shelves as shown. I don't like the open tracks that show in the front. Perhaps the traditional holes with those shelf tabs that can be place where you need them. I improperly described what I was building. I definitely want to build the center section first but the best way to create the sides of the center section has thrown me. I haven't taken pencil to paper yet and was lookin for input on the best way to create the center "cage". And I'm getting some great feedback!


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## JADobson (Aug 14, 2012)

Do it like JBay suggested and then glue a face on the front (just a veneer would be fine) so you no longer see the joinery.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Best of luck.


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