# 220 Power Step Up/Down Converter



## myxology (Jan 2, 2015)

Not sure if this is where I should put this post, but I hope it's right…

I have a 220v 8" Jet Jointer. I used to have enough circuits in my old house to use it, but not in this house and I cannot add another circuit to the board. It is maxed out. I would rather not sell this jointer, but I need to figure out this dilemma. I don't use the jointer all that often, so I was wondering if anybody has used anything like this as a solution.

Power Bright
2000-Watts Step Up/Down Converter 110/120-Volt - 220/240-Volt Voltage Transformer


Am I just asking for trouble here? I can't add a circuit and don't want to spend $3000 on a panel upgrade.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

Can you just share a outlet with another tool that's 240.
That's what I do with my 20 inch bandsaw and my planer.
I think that's what most do when they can no longer have dedicated circuits.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

You really don't need a panel upgrade, adding a subpanel should enable you to use the jointer….and I can't imagine it costing $3000. Just saying…...but if all else fails have you considered changing the motor to a 1.5 HP one? That said, your jointer draws fewer watts than that device delivers, so (with absolutely no experience with those type things) I guess it should work.


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## ibewjon (Oct 2, 2010)

A motor on 120v uses TWICE the amps as a motor on 240v. But that motor uses the same kilowatts, which is what you pay for. Yes, you can use a transformer to change 120 to 240, but if you need 20 amps of 240, you need a 120 circut supplying at least 40 amps, and 50 would be better because there is some loss in the wiring and transformer. The unit shown only provides 8 amps, and should only be used for a 6 amp load. I would put the money to a new service, or a sub panel if current load on your panel allows for more circuts. Can you rewire the motor for 120v? My Delta 8" is running on 120v till I take the time to change it to 240.


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## myxology (Jan 2, 2015)

Ah, I should have mentioned. I do not currently have a 220v circuit in my garage at all. I have a woefully underpowered shop. I am basically using two circuits, one from the lighting and one from the two outlets on the walls. Extension cords are how I'm operating for now.


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## Fresch (Feb 21, 2013)

> A motor on 120v uses TWICE the amps as a motor on 240v. But that motor uses the same kilowatts, which is what you pay for. Yes, you can use a transformer to change 120 to 240, but if you need 20 amps of 240, you need a 120 circut supplying at least 40 amps, and 50 would be better because there is some loss in the wiring and transformer. The unit shown only provides 8 amps, and should only be used for a 6 amp load. I would put the money to a new service, or a sub panel if current load on your panel allows for more circuts. Can you rewire the motor for 120v? My Delta 8" is running on 120v till I take the time to change it to 240.
> 
> - ibewjon


? TWICE?
How about the same amount only each leg draws half.
120v at 20 amps = 2400watts = 240v at 10 amps each leg so total 20 amps or 2400watts, watts are watts. I know you know what your saying but people that don't will think they save money using 240v.


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## Fresch (Feb 21, 2013)

To the OP, remove 4 breakers in your service panel add a subpanel, put the four circuits into the subpanel. Now run a new subfeed to your shop out of your service.


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## ibewjon (Oct 2, 2010)

But only if the panel has unused capacity. Spaces mean nothing when there is a large load like electric resistance heating. And to fresch, that is why I stated that at either voltage, the motor uses the same kilowatts, and kilowatts x hours used is what you pay for. Yes, twice because E x I = P, or P ÷ E = I. 240 saves nothing on the electric bill, it only saves on wire size. As I stated above, if possible, change the motor to the 120v connections, and change to a 120v cord cap.


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## CaptainKlutz (Apr 23, 2014)

Simple solution is available if your laundry room is next to your garage.
Run an extension cord from dryer outlet. Electric dryer's in USA usually have a 30A 220V circuit.

For < 2HP motor (~8A), can use cheap 14AWG 50ft cord, for 3HP motor (12-14A) would use 12AWG wire but 14AWG works for short (< 50ft) cord, and for 5HP motor (22-24A) need to use 10AWG cord.

Ran my 220V tools this way many times while working in rental house, that is till I added a sub-panel for garage.

PS - Voltage loss on 220V line is half 110V, so don't need worry as much about increase in wire size to avoid power loss due cord resistance, unless total wire length from panel is over ~225 feet.

PPS - that 2000W transformer will provide ~9A of 220v power. A 2HP 220V motor has FLA of ~13A, Which is about same as AVERAGE inrush current during start up. Your 2HP motor will probably melt that convertor, or least blow it's internal fuses. IE, It won't work for very long.

Best Luck.


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## tblank (Apr 8, 2010)

I just did this. Upgraded a 1938 50A panel to 100A. Then added a 50A subpanel in the garage/workshop with two 220V circuits. Also, was able to add more 110V outlets in dedicated spots for tools. Added LED lightbulbs with a direct conversion (no ballast) and put in more lights where I needed them.


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## OhioMike (Jun 24, 2012)

The POWER BRIGHT is not capable of running the JET jointer.

JET rates the 8" jointer at 2760 watts (12 amps times 230 volts = 2760 watts)

POWER BRIGHT is only rated for 2000 watts but the instructions say to multiply the tool wattage by 1.5 for an added safety margin. With safety margin, your JET jointer would require a POWER BRIGHT rated for 4140 watts.

Mike


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

If your panel is full and you want to add a sub (best choice, IMHO) you would need to move a few of the existing circuits into that sub. Piece of cake (sort of) if the sub is located next to the main panel,


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## ibewjon (Oct 2, 2010)

What is the main breaker or fuse size? It could be as small as 60 amp, or 100, 150, or even 200. If it is a 200 amp panel, with only 20 circuts, yes, have a qualified contractor add a panel. If only 60, you will most likely need a new service. If 100 amp, it will depend on the load in the house. Electric water heater? Electric range? Electric resistance heat? Air conditioning? Did you look at motor to see if it can be wired for 120v ? That is cheapest solution.


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## myxology (Jan 2, 2015)

Wow. I'm so glad I asked you guys. Most of what you're talking about is a second language to me. I have no aspirations to be an electrician. I can say that the main breaker appears to be 125 amps. Maybe the sub-panel is the way to go. I already have a subpanel at my electric stove and one at the pool pump, so there is a precedent for that kind of process here. The garage sub-panel would be right next to the main panel, so no big distance to travel there. The laundry room is all the way on the other side of the house, so the extension cord idea is just not practical. A subpanel sounds less expensive too.


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## ibewjon (Oct 2, 2010)

The panel is the safest way to go. I don't know why there is a panel at the stove unless it is used as a disconnect. For the pool, be sure it has a ground fault interrupter somewhere in the pool circut and a ground wire. Extension cords are never a good idea, especially 14 awg. Twelve or larger cords are the only way to go. Since you say electrical is a second language, be sure to hire an experienced contractor. Square D panels and breakers are the best available and don't cost much more.


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## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

I'll just reiterate what's been said about power. Watts are watts, and if that jointer is rated at 2,760 W, it's unlikely you could run it off the circuit you described, voltage converter or not. Even a 20 A, 120 Vac would be 2,400 W maximum. Of course the jointer isn't going to draw full power very often if ever, but motor startup current can be an issue.

Machines use 240 V for a reason, and that reason is to get more power at lower current. In short the same size wire and current rating on a circuit will have 2X the power for a 240 V versus 120 V circuit.

I agree, get a sub-panel and if your electric service is too small, get it upgraded. Sub-panels are borderline trivial to add if the main panel has the capacity (not just breaker space). Upgrading service is a bigger deal.

Even if you need to upgrade service, you still may want a sub-panel close to or in your shop, if your shop is not near the main panel. That way instead of running every shop circuit all the way from the main panel to your shop, you just have one from the main panel, to a shop sub-panel, than as many circuits as you need in the shop itself.

And oversize the sub-panel so you have room to add more circuits in the future for the shop. You just never know what you might want someday.

Just be sure to get multiple quotes and don't just go with the first electrician, who may or may not have a boat payment to make.


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## Fresch (Feb 21, 2013)

How did you know I have a boat payment!?


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