# New And Improved Stumpy Nubs Box joint Jig



## gfadvm

Fred, Very impressive build. I have the Stumpy plans but not the talent/intelligence to utilize them!

Edit: Just looked at your profile and saw that you built your own 16" bandsaw! You are definitely a very talented guy!


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## fl13

Thanks for your comments, the box joint jig was actually fairly easy to construct. Stumpys instructions are a bit confusing. The main thing is DO NOT glue down the rod!!. It just sits in the routed dado and is fixed at both ends. The rod is used for fine adjustments and the modified spring clamp has a 3/8 inch x 1 inch rod connector which has been cut in half lengthwise. I used a cheap tile saw with a diamond blade to cut it lengthwise rather than a hacksaw.
this jig works by establishing a zero start cut position on the sled. Once established I glued a section of rule from a tape ruler on the sliding fence and in front of the threaded rod, also a section of rule was glued to the stationary fence.
to cut a 1/8 inch joint, you release the clamp and move the fence over 1/4 inch. Make the next cut and repeat.
main thing is that your dado set must be shimmed to an accurate width. 1/8th is easy, but widths such as 1/ 2 must be exactly 1/2. Clamping your workpiece is absolutely necessary, hence the use of the ttrak and hold downs. Still fiddling around with the jig just to figure out the nuances of it. If your wood is accurately square, clamped tightly in the jig and your first cut is at your zero position, the jig makes good joints that are very tight. Use a backer board !!
The rule is used only to line up the cuts. My zero postion is always at the beginning of an inch mark on both rules, when advancing to the next cut, just move your fence 1/4 of an inch if you are making 1/8. Inch joints.
also use 3/4 inch baltic or furniture grade ply for your jig. The ttrak sliding dovetail bar is very easy to install and works great.
Hope this helps
fl


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## gfadvm

Thanks Fred.


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## StumpyNubs

Thanks for the review, glad you like it!


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## helluvawreck

That will be a great addition to your shop, Fred. Welcome to Lumberjocks.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## wormil

I like the "no cranking" idea.


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## paul1474

Fred, I just finished my jig. I am going to use self adhesive ruler for my scale. Do I need to use rulers on both pieces of the plexiglas to get good accurate cuts? I also added t-track like you did.


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## NKYKelly

Thanks for this review Fred. It made me slow down and rethink my build. For one thing, this made me discover that Stumpy produced an update that suggested using the Toggle Clamp for the Locking mechanism. That was a great upgrade IMO. Like you, I still had to brace it to remove the wiggle, but it's much easier to lock and unlock and slide the jig into position. In fact, my 8 Year Old Daughter was the Toggle Clamp operator while I made the cuts. We cut into quite a rhythm and were able to produce the joins for a 5" tall box in just a couple of minutes.

My quick review:
Solid and unique design and I recommend it. The concept is a strong one and the plans can produce a very usable jig. IMO, Stumpy falls short in the follow-through and completeness. The plan needs a Setup and Use section or at a minimum a follow-up video demonstrating setup and use.

Kelly

Here's my complete review: http://lumberjocks.com/first_reviews/9


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## fl13

Paul1474, in answer to your question about the adhesive ruler the answer is " yes." I place the fence next to the cut line on the sled, this should be to the left edge of the dado cut out on the sled. My ruler at that point indicates 7 inches on the top plexiglass. I would afix the bottom adhesive rule so that a whole number mark lines up with the 7 inch mark. Since you are sliding the carriage to the left after every cut. It is easier if both rulers are started at a whole number and not for example a fraction ( 7 and 1/4 ). The 7 inch mark on the top plexiglass was chosen by myself because it is to the right of the clamp block which blocks sight of the bottom ruler. The main thing is that in order to do repetitive accurate cuts, its easier if the beginning cut is at set always started at a whole number . Depending on how you affix your 2 rulers, the number could be at 5 , 6 , 7 etc inches, the bottom ruler could be any number, the main point is that as you slide the fence to the left , that it lines up with the top number. In fact you could eliminate the top ruler and just make a starting mark , 1/ 2 inch dado, line the mark up with the number on the bottom ruler and move it 1 inch for a 1/2 inch joint.
fred


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