# Is it OK to put a magnet on a bandsaw?



## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

Sounds like a stupid question, and maybe it is. But that's why I'm asking!

I have a Grizzly 14" bandsaw. It is not located near a wall in my shop, and I dislike having power cables on the floor, so I ran it via a 12 gauge extension cable over the ceiling and down the wall. However, I can't run the cable directly above the bandsaw because the garage door gets in the way. It's hooked to the ceiling about two feet to the left of the saw. See really bad picture here, which was actually taken to showcase the door's location:










The cord with the loop in it is coming from the bandsaw and as you can see it's hanging down quite a lot. It connects to the orange extension cord which then runs across the ceiling and down to the wall behind the jointer. The other black cable goes to the table saw and is plugged in in the ceiling.

My question. Can I attach a magnetic clamp to the top rear of the bandsaw casing to hold the cord out of the way so I can safely walk through the gap between the table saw and bandsaw? Will a magnet cause any problem with the bandsaw operation? The wheels are aluminum, so that won't be a problem, but could a too-strong magnet cause alignment problems when I take the tension off of the blade? What strength of magnet would be strong enough not to rattle itself off during operation but not strong enough to cause problems?


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

My gut tells me that-unless you buy one of those 150 pound lift magnets from some place like Harbor Freight-you'll be just fine.

You could-if you REALLY worry-put a spirit level AGAINST your upper wheel, and THEN apply the magnet. I'd bet a buck that you would NOT be able to detect ANY movement or deflection.

Motors like this one USE magnets, so-while they may not be AS close to the wheels as YOU'RE talking about-they don't cause problems.

Ditto table saws, and nearly every other power tool in the average shop.

I think you're right to ask, but … within reason … I'm quite sure you're fine.


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

Thanks Neil; that's what my common sense is telling me too but I like to check these things when moving machinery is involved!

The magnet I'm thinking of getting is a two inch one like this - it doesn't give a strength rating but the 4" one is rated for five pounds so it can't be much!


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Ohhhhhhh, yeah. You'll be JUST fine.

These band saw things aren't butterfly wings.

Good to ask, but … no worries. It'll barely hold a few paper clips on the other side of where you mount it 

Cords … are probably a thing we ALL wish we had good solutions for !


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## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

The Carter's bandsaw fence attaches to the table with magnets, and I'm sure a lot of people store them on the side of the bandsaw. I've stored magnet-based featherboards and lights to the side of mine.

A tsunami that affected Bangalore would be extraordinary even for tsunamis.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Bangalore ??

Will Madras be okay … at least 

Wait. Gotta' clarify. YOU ARE being facetious, right ?

We're talking about a magnet with SIGNIFICANTLY less power than the magnetic "clip-on" lights that LOTS of people use on band saws ….

[had to ask ;-)]


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Why can't you just add additional hooks in the ceiling? One for your TS and another just above the BS but out of way of your overhead door. Just a thought…

FWIW, I ran my 240v service for my BS from the ceiling and just wrap the "extra" power supply line around the neat little useless (untill now) 60w light attached to my 14in Rikon. Works like a champ. But then again, I do NOT have to deal with the overhead door. ;-)


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

Because I've been having a heck of a hard time finding studs in a nine foot drywalled ceiling, and I'm going to be installing a dust system later this year that may or may not be going along that same gap, so I'd rather not put in any more hardware without good reason.

I originally planned on having the bandsaw rewired for 220; there's an extra 220v plug in the ceiling right next to the table saw plug. Have you found any benefit to running your bandsaw at 220/240 rather than 110?


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## reggiek (Jun 12, 2009)

Elizabeth, I do not know about your location, but the electrical code in my area requires a stress relief on cables hanging from overhead receptacles. You can find all kinds of different versions and models if you do a search on ceiling cable strain relief. I am not an electrician, but have had to work with them on many new homes/renovations I have done.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

"Have you found any benefit to running your bandsaw at 220/240 rather than 110?"

I converted my BS to 240v from the beginning because I could. I had several slots in my box and decided early to take advantage of the higher voltage efficiencies. I built the garage (MetalMart 24×30) and wired it myself with a 125amp box wired to a 100amp breaker on the 200amp service at the house. I guess the benefits are no bogging down and no dimming lights.

FWIW, my BS overhead wiring came about because the middle of the garage is where the BS eventually migrated to and found the most use at that location. BTW, Reggie is right about needing stress relief. You could always use hooks on toggle bolts in the drywall. If using toggle bolts, use *more* rather than less.


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

Reggie and Mike, could you explain what you mean about stress relief? I haven't heard that phrase used in this context before. I'm guessing that refers to not just having a cord plugged straight into the ceiling, but accounting for the weight of the cord in some way? Right now I have both the table saw cord and the BS extension cord threaded through a carabiner, which itself is in an eyehook mounted into a wooden stud.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

Two points - -

(1) I have a light with a magnetic base stuck to the side of my bandsaw. I've never detected any problem with it effecting bandsaw operation.

(2) I also have a guide attached to my bandsaw to keep a cord from the ceiling in place. That guide is made of wood and it attaches to the bandsaw with velcro (just in case I want to remove it).


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

Aha! Now THAT is a good idea. Rich, would you take a picture of your guide for me please?


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Too much weight hanging on an electrical cord can/will compress the insulation and may cut through the insulation creating a fire hazard.


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

Could you just get some longer extension cords and rfasten them across the ceiling, down the wall and across the floor?


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

The length of the cord isn't the problem - I've got an extra five or six feet of extension cord as it stands. The problem is that I can't put a hook directly above the bandsaw due to the garage door.


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

You could drop down with 2×4's and put a cantilever 2×2 right over to your BS. It could even be hinged to swing horizontally.


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

That may well be what I do in the end, but I need to finish running the dust collection system through that area before I build anything permanent.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

Rather than running the extention cord over,why not run some romex across the ceiling and hardwire a 4 way box on the wall. Plug into it.


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## RJS (Aug 10, 2010)

I keep a magnet on the side of my bandsaw to hold my "lock-out" device (a piece of steel wire that I keep through the "start" button) I hang the wire on the magnet when I am using the saw. I have not had any problems.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

Actually we all probably cause more problems in Bangalore from coiling a drop cord and using it than that magnet will ever cause in you local city. We never think of that but instructions on many products tell you to not coil excess cord when in use. The strain relieve thing comes in many flavors and for many reasons. The cord should not be supported by its insulation as mentioned or unplugged by the insulation. It will stretch things and when it yields it never goes back to the original position. It can be like jerking the toaster plug out of the wall receptacle by grabbing the middle of the cord and pulling. Wiring should be restrained with some kind of clamping device. Lots of them available. Not sure duct tape is the answer here though. We really need a system where you can use antennas and forget the hard wiring. I would probably walk between 2 antennas and get zapped though.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

As far as a magnet goes, I have a parts tray on my GO555X and never had a problem.


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## stevepeterson (Dec 17, 2009)

Elizabeth,

The magnet obviously needs to attach to metal in the bandsaw. Most of the magnetic flux will flow out of the magnet, travel along the metal that the magnet is attached to, then flow right back into the magnet. Very little flux will escape, and certainly none of it will affect the aluminum wheels. Nothing bad can happen by attaching a magnet to your bandsaw.


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

I've taken Rich Greer's advice and attached a guide with velcro. Simple and effective.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I used this magnet "kit" on my bandsaw and I really wish I'd never let them in my shop. I can't get anything done in there now.


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