# Making a push block



## Spitfire1 (May 18, 2016)

I am wanting to make some push blocks similar to the one pictured for use on my table saw. I have several that I bought but I am not truly happy with any of them. My question is how do I cut the bottom of this jig with the notch? I don't own a handsaw which seems like the simple solution.

Thanks!


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## Kirk650 (May 8, 2016)

I cut similar push blocks from scrap pieces of 2X12 pine. I just do them rather rough, using the band saw and smooth the edges with a sander. No need to be fancy. If you don't have a hand saw or a bandsaw, you can buy either one or drive down to Texas and I'll give you a couple of extras I have.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

Just go ahead and cut out the push block, cut the bottom straight across, and then make a little "foot" or "heel" (as some call it), and glue it on….The push block needs to be at least a 1/2" to 3/4" thick for it to work….1/4" would be too thin….Easy peesy…nice and easy..!!


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

You could cut the notch on the table saw if you are careful (think miter gauge or crosscut sled). But - how are you going to get the curved top? Hopefully, it's not going to be sanded to shape from a rectangle! Whatever you use to cut the top curved area could be used to cut the notch as well. And before you settle on that design, you might want to check this video out:

The Best Push Stick!
(thanks to Izzy Swan)

Cheers,
Brad


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## ScottM (Jul 10, 2012)

> ... And before you settle on that design, you might want to check this video out:
> 
> The Best Push Stick!
> (thanks to Izzy Swan)
> ...


I've tried both designs and prefer the OP's as well. Something about the hand position just feels better to me. Just a preference. As for cutting the notch, I think those are covered; handsaw, table saw, jig saw, etc.


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

The naked lady push stick will eventually come up but I always liked the original design the best :
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/161530


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## muleskinner (Sep 24, 2011)

I'm with MrUnix. The humpback version looks awkward to me and doesn't seem like it would afford as good a grip as this version.









And the notch? Get a a handsaw for heavens sake. That's like a mechanic not having a screwdriver.


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)




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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

I don't even round the hump, mine are simply MDF rectangles with a roundover run along the top edges. Sometimes, I'm too lazy to cut the roundover… ;^)

Why do I do this? They're consumables… As the "peg" gets eaten, cut down for tnin stock, or the bottom gets too grooved, I simply rip it off (using the parallel edge I'm too lazy to shape) and cut a new notch. When they get too thin and no longer keep my hand far enough from the blade, they're trash.

With a long gripping area along the top, the user can also vary the grip depending on the operation. Sometimes, small and narrow parts are better with the grip centered.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

When I bought my Grizzly 1023 table saw, the manual had the plan for one in the back. You could always download the manual and check it out.

I made my push stick out of two pieces of 3/4 plywood. It is a sacrificial push stick. I don't mind pushing it over the blade when it protrudes above the material a little. I can always make another one. Works good for ripping narrow pieces from the wider stuff because the stick will push both pieces through and past the blade. Never any problems.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

You've got a project that requires a tool you don't have. Sounds like a good excuse to spend some money. Who knows you might find 2 or 3 other tools you could use down the road.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

I just use a piece of 2×4 or 2×6. 
You can screw a cleat on the rear (I usually use hardwood & be sure screw won't hit blade!)

As they get chewed up, I take the cleat off, re-rip the bottom, and put on a new cleat.
A 2×6 will last forever.


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