# Tear out problems in white oak



## TFKeefe (Jan 25, 2009)

I am building a night stand from white oak. The top is made from several quarter sawn boards.
A couple of the boards had some minor tear out after thickness planing. I went ahead and 
glued them together. I have tried sanding out the tear out but it is too deep for my ROS. I 
have tried cleaning it up with a hand plane (Bailey block plane - sharp and tuned up). I don't 
think I made it any worse but it didn't get any better.

In about two weeks I will have access to a belt sander that will handle the 15" top. However,
I would like to finish the top. I would also like to be a little more self sufficient.

I am looking for suggestions about how to deal with this problem. I would appreciate any suggestions.

Tom


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## woodisit (Jul 11, 2009)

The first question is how deep is the tear out? Have you tried a hand scraper, not sure what kind of belt sander you have access too, I have have used hand held belt sander for removing material but you have to be careful.I also have a drum sander which keeps it flat.


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## BigTim (Jan 17, 2008)

One other thing you could try is make up a surface planer using a router and sled that runs on raised ledges on either side of the workpiece. I know there are posts about this type of home made surface planner here on LJ's It may be a little involved, bur you will find a ton of uses for the rig. I'll search the site & post back any links I can find.
Tim


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## BigTim (Jan 17, 2008)

I knew I could find it!
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/1992
Thanks GaryK!


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## Samyer (Sep 26, 2007)

I second the hand scraper approach; more control, and when you're done, you won't have to go back over it. You'll get a better surface with the scraper than you will with sandpaper.


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## chriswright (Nov 13, 2008)

If the tear out isn't really deep, try wetting the surface you're about to plane with some water, let it sit for about a minute then run it back through your planer taking a very light cut. The water will swell the softer fibers and they'll act as a cushion and help eliminate tear out. I've had rather good success with this technique with figured cherry and maple.


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## Samyer (Sep 26, 2007)

Great idea Chris


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## chriswright (Nov 13, 2008)

Thanks Sam, I read about that trick in a Fine Woodworking a few years ago.


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## jsheaney (Jun 25, 2007)

A night stand isn't all that big, so I would go with a card scraper and some sanding by hand with the grain. Something larger and I would consider getting a scraper plane. The are rather finicky to get them working properly, but the do as good a job as a card scraper and are more practical for a large surface.

I'm in the middle of a bookcase project with QSWO and have had the exact same problem. I don't have a jointer or planer, though, so it's all hand work for me. After flattening, I use a #7 bevel up plane with a high angle blade. I use a 50 deg angle straight on or a 62 deg and skew the plane a bit. I still find some scraping and hand sanding is necessary, though.

Keep in mind that all that flecking that is the hallmark of QSWO is really the grain (of the medullary rays) going sideways. And they tend to be quite thin. It's easy and quite maddening to tear out a little piece.


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## TFKeefe (Jan 25, 2009)

Thanks very much for the suggestions. The worst tear depth is between 1/32 and 1/16". There are one
or two spots like this. There is one other patch that is all under 1/32". It is a bit difficult to estimate this
depth.

The belt sander I referred to is actually a drum sander. I have used it once before.

The glued up table top is too big to fit in my jointer/planer so I won't be able to use the wet wood approach.
Can the same technique be used with a hand plane?

The router sled sounds interesting but I have a serious space shortage. My whole workshop is only 10' x 10'.

I guess I will give the card scraper another try. I just wonder if I will be able to take off that much material
before my arms fall off.

Thanks very much for all your thoughtful comments.

Tom


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## woodisit (Jul 11, 2009)

The wet wood technique that Chris talked about will work even with sanding, even when the water drys the wood fibers are raised.
Sounds like your hand scraper needs sharping, there was a blog on recently on sharping I thought was great it's
lumberjocks.com/toddc/blog/6855.
The drum sander will work too.


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## TFKeefe (Jan 25, 2009)

Woodisit: I was able to remove all of the tear out using the hand scraper. I used the sharpening method
you referred me to and the work went fast. Thanks again.

Tom


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

QSWO can be tough for tearout. Keep the plane blades extremely sharp, take light passes, moisten the top as suggested, and try feeding it at an angle thru the planer…even then a prayer or two won't hurt! That's about all you can do that I know of.


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## rossbotics (May 5, 2009)

Hi Tom
i know it's to late now, but in the future what can do, and what i have done with white oak is, before you glue up your slab, is run your boards over a good sharp jointer ( along the grain ) set your jointer for about a 64th of an inch and keep running them through until you have what your looking for, then plane them parrell on the other side


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## woodisit (Jul 11, 2009)

Hi Tom 
That's what I do, also I joint the edge and square the other edge on the table saw. I agree with knotscott on the planer, you might also check your in and out feed table for alignment.


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## TFKeefe (Jan 25, 2009)

I wasn't aware that QSWO was more sensitive to this than other woods.
Next time I will try moistening the top. Also, I like the idea of feeding the 
boards through at an angle.

Doug: I have been alternating sides during planing to balance the stress on
the wood. However, the planing is where I seem to have most of the problem.
Your suggestion of jointing one side and then planing the other seems like it
would help. Do you see any problems from planing more material off of one
side than the other?

Woodisit: I know that improper alignment of planer infeed and outfeed can 
lead to snipe. What is the connection to tear out?

Thanks again for all of your help.

Tom


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## woodisit (Jul 11, 2009)

Just I have seen a little extra pressure might not cause a snipe but can start a tear out.


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