# Solid or ply for shelves



## sawedoff (Oct 10, 2011)

What's the general concensus about what to use for shelves? I'm looking at building some either out of oak boards or ply or maple wood or birch ply. The longest shelf would be 48", however, I believe there will be a divider which would make them slightly less than 24" each.

Thanks


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## FeralVermonter (Jan 1, 2013)

For a two foot span, any of these should work just fine.


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## oldretiredjim (Nov 14, 2011)

I use birch ply but I do reinforce 4' spans. Too much flex. My wife is a potter and storing her stuff between shows creates issues for shelves. Like storing concrete on shelves. The oak will be much better and with some thought you can make the shelves such that the oak can be reused when the shelving inevitably becomes obsolete. It is much harder to reuse the ply.


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## MJCD (Nov 28, 2011)

Depending on your design requirements, you could make the shelving from the ply, and put a 1" x 1" Oak/Maple banding on the front lip - this would had both strength and 'substance' to the shelf. Any 48" span needs support.
MJCD


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## MonteCristo (May 29, 2012)

Most shelves that I see with sag are because the unsupported span is too long. You can go more than about 2' by beefing things up but if you stick with short spans and shelves at least 3/4" thick you run a lot less risk of sag, even when heavier objects like books are placed on the shelves.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

MJCD has the solution. I over build and usually face *both* edges with 3/4 X 1 1/2" solid.


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## sawedoff (Oct 10, 2011)

MJCD and Gene,

so you guys use ply and then rip a face frame solid piece to put on the front edge of the plywood shelf? How are you fastening it? pocket screws or finish nails?


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

I usually just use Tite Bond. Nothing has come apart yet. 
The bookshelves in our home have various spans up to 4' with no supports. All over 12 years old and none have sagged and all are *loaded!*
It's always been my theory that nails or screws simply replace clamps until the glue dries, anyway.


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## sawedoff (Oct 10, 2011)

Gene,

That's with plywood? Sounds like that's what I'm probably going to go with


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## SamuraiSaw (Jan 8, 2013)

I prefer plywood. There is little strength advantage (if any) of solid over plywood. But solid does have inherent disadvantages such as warping and cupping.

I usually cut a shallow rabbett, say 1/4", in 1 to 1 1/2" stock to add strength and mask the raw plywood edge. The rabbett provides greater glue area.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Yep, plywood. I've never done as SamuraiSaw suggests, but it sounds like a good method.


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## MJCD (Nov 28, 2011)

Sawedoff:

I use the table saw (or Router) to create a 1/4" wide x 3/8" deep dado on the front-edge of the ply; then create a mating tongue in the edging: the 1" x 1" is the non-inset piece of the hardwood. I secure this with T2 (Titebond II). This approach is a bit more woodworking than a simple edging; however, it provides significant strength, and will not come apart.

I hope this helps. 
MJCD


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Ply is ok for 2 ft spans but I would reinforce it with edges of hardwood. It somewhat depends on what you intend the shelves to support, books are heavy, bric a brac not so much.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm


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## sawedoff (Oct 10, 2011)

Rick…........ Way cool. Thanks Man!


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