# photography setup



## Muzzy17 (Oct 13, 2014)

I'm looking to set up a better place for taking pictures of my work. Lookin to build a fold up booth covered with material. I'm thinking about a soft cloudy gray set up. What do y'all recommend for lighting?


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## derrickparks57 (Apr 11, 2013)

My wife does photography, she bought a set of light stands off amazon, unsure of the brand, but they were pretty inexpensive. As for a backdrop I made her one out of pvc pipe that she can pop together for easy transportation, found the plans just searching google. She hangs fabric over it and holds it in place with some squeeze clamps.


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## WillliamMSP (Jan 3, 2014)

You can get really deep in to lighting if you want to, but honestly, I like the simplicity and results of shooting with natural light from a big window off to the side.

You didn't mention it, but I would recommend a tripod for the camera, if you don't already have one. It solves a lot of problems - the stability is great even at faster shutter speeds, but it also allows you to stop down for sharper, more detailed pics in less than studio-bright light conditions.


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## Pennington (Feb 5, 2016)

Finally, a thread I can contribute something useful to! I've been a photographer for the past decade, and WillliamMSP is right, you can spend all sorts of crazy money on lighting.

But his answer regarding using good window light is a great starting point. If you're looking to step it up from there, continuous lights - as opposed to flash units - are the next easy upgrade. Flash is difficult because you can't see it as you make adjustments to intensity and position, whereas continuous lights let you see how everything looks as you go.

Some hardware store clamp lights (2-3) all with matching bulbs make a good, simple kit. A tripod is definitely necessary, as you won't have enough light intensity for quick, hand-held exposures and especially as you go for deeper depth of focus.

Using three sheets of foamcore board is a fast and easy way to put together a little table-top studio. One piece forms the bottom, and the other two form the sides all meeting in a corner (like half a cube). Set your item in the corner a few inches out from it and direct the lights in - gives nice bounce/diffusion.

Google "inverse square law photography" - it isn't important that you understand the math or formulas, but it is helpful to really understand how the intensity/falloff of light changes with distance, because it isn't linear. And if you know that going in, you can save some headaches!


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I've been debating on building or buying a tent for taking photos. I've some that are white, some black, some reversible with both which is one point toward buying.


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## Cooler (Feb 3, 2016)

The problem with tents it that they kill all the specular highlihts-those little bright areas in a photo. The net result is a very evenly lit object that looks essentially "dead".

You are better served finding a window with north window light (indirect sunlight). Bring a table near to it and use a piece of white cardboard to reflect light into the shadow areas.

All you need is a table of some sort to rest the work on and a seamless background. White seamless paper is available in 43" wide rolls and is pretty inexpensive. You will have to cut away a bit of the paper after each shot as it will get dirty pretty fast. And the dirty stuff really shows up in a photo.

The nice thing about window light (aside from the fact that it is free) is that "what you see is what you get". If it looks good to your eye, it will look good in the photo.


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## Muzzy17 (Oct 13, 2014)

Thanks for the replies fellers, these have all been very helpfull


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Here's Chris Schwarz opinion on the basics.


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## Johnny_Yuma (Nov 29, 2009)

I would suggest a white backdrop. This will allow you to have a gray background by underexposing the backdrop and filling in your product. You can shoot from blown out white to black with the one backdrop. Heck, you can shoot any color background with white!

You can get a backdrop and several lights on Amazon for under $100.

Here is a set up shot I just did last week.


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

I'm learning about studio lighting as well. At the moment I use two umbrella lights and natural light the backdrop from behind.

In the blog I went from an mdf backdrop to fabric.

http://lumberjocks.com/Texcaster/blog/58202


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> The problem with tents it that they kill all the specular highlihts-those little bright areas in a photo. The net result is a very evenly lit object that looks essentially "dead".


It's only a problem if want reflections. In my case, that's exactly why I want a tent, to avoid reflections and for even lighting, for product photos.


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## WillliamMSP (Jan 3, 2014)

Even lighting is unnatural and, often, not terribly interesting, so most product photographers (and portrait photographers, for that matter) will have a stronger light source off to one side and a weaker fill light elsewhere, if necessary (if the shadows are deeper than desired). Especially with products, side lighting helps to emphasize shape and texture which lends a more natural, tactile feel.

In terms of reflections, tweaking the camera and light positions relative to the product (this could include simply rotating the product a few degrees) is an easy way to mitigate unwanted glare. In extreme instances, I'll pop on a circular polarizing filter as a last resort.


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## Wondermutt (Jan 21, 2016)

With a glossy finish, I use some sort of diffuser (Light Cotton Sheets) or other in front of the light source. This tend to soften up the harsh reflections cause by an intense light source and reflective surface.

Another way to set your project apart is to set your work at an angle. In the example above, I would have propped the cabinet at a slight angle upwards or I would have orientated the lighting so that one source was at ground level pointing upwards.

If reflections are your end result, try lighting that offers different intensities. What I mean is use a CFL equipped lighting sources and one that has incandescence. Try different wattage bulbs and you will quickly get reflections and shadows.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

For background, on small projects, I use a blue art sheet of paper.
Blue improves contrast and shows detail better as blue light has a shorter wavelength …. that's my story and I'm sticking to it.


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## August (Apr 27, 2014)

i might have to watch this forum i enjoy taking pictures also
heres one of mine


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## Cooler (Feb 3, 2016)

> The problem with tents it that they kill all the specular highlihts-those little bright areas in a photo. The net result is a very evenly lit object that looks essentially "dead".
> 
> It s only a problem if want reflections. In my case, that s exactly why I want a tent, to avoid reflections and for even lighting, for product photos.
> 
> - Rick M.


A tent is essential to photograph sterling silver tableware and jewelry.

It is also an easy way to control lighting ratios.

But, as I mentioned before a little skill in direct lighting will result in a photo that will "pop" off the page. You wont' get that from a tented photo.

I hired a professional studio photographer to photograph our products for a show. People were walking up to the images and touching them. They were not convinced it was a photo until they felt it was flat. That is what good lighting will do for a product.

I used to be a studio portrait photographer. I know and understand the lighting of products, but it takes a level of patience to do that I simply do not have. The studio product photographer took a half an hour per shot to micro adjust the lighting. I would be in a mad house if I had to do that. But even simple studio lighting has more pop than tent lighting.

My favorite is a main light that is above and behind the product and a reflector in front. This gives a nice lighting ratio, is easy to execute and provides some "pop" for the photo.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Yeah, I just want the tent for taking pictures for ebay which usually happens at night. The photos don't need to "pop", just minimize reflections and show good detail with accurate color. Mostly I was interested in an answer to the OP's question about background colors.


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