# Grizzly G0490X 8" Jointer With Helix Cutter Head



## DougN

Glad you are enjoying your new jointer. I just got one myself (my first jointer) and I am loving it.


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## wisconsinwoodrat

Thanks so much for the review. It's perfect timing as I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a Grizzly jointer.

One question: Is yours the Byrd Shelix or Grizzly Spiral. If it is a Byrd, did you order with the Byrd installed or install it after? I thought the 490X came with only the Grizzly spiral cutter. The reason I'm asking is I'd like to order one with the Byrd to match my planer (one kind of inserts to buy). I thought I was going to have to buy the 490 and the Byrd separate and install it myself.

Thanks in advance for your response.

Chris


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## kelvancra

Mine is fully stock from the Bellingham, Washington, store. As such, it's a Grizzly, rather than a Byrd head.

I am unaware of if you can order the jointer with the Byrd Shelix on it. I know others have posted regarding a head swap, but I just figured I'd avoid shelling out the extra four hundred fifty a year or two down the road and deal with the swap. In the end, I guess the price between a stock jointer with Grizzly's spiral and swapping a knife unit over to a Byrd would be in the ballpark of the same price.

I note the specs for the Grizzly inserts are: 14mm x 14mm x 2mm inserts, with a 6.5mm center hole. The Byrd is indicated to be 15mm x 15mm x 2.5mm.

Below is some information I found regarding replacement cutters for the Grizzly.

As you may have found, Grizzly wants about seventy dollars for ten replacement cutters. The Byrd site wants about half that. Then aftermarket sources, for the Grizzly, are about half that. At the price savings, it may be having two different cutters is less a problem.

__
NOTES:


http://www.carbidedepot.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=6020


http://www.moulderservices.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=IC-14142-10


http://www.oellasawandtool.com (Tigra, model 188890 inserts)


 "Marty Tippin 02-16-2015, 11:58 AM

Grizzly wants $69.95 for a pack of 10 inserts http://www.grizzly.com/products/Carbide-Replacement-Inserts-14-x-14-x-2mm-10-Pack/T21348

Global Tooling sells 14×14x2mm inserts for $1.73 each - $17.30 for a pack of 10. http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/carbide-insert-knives.html

I learned the original inserts on the G0453PX are actually 14.17mm square, not exactly 14mm square. A company that carries a German-made exact replacement for the "JT" inserts on the Grizzly cutter head http://www.oellasawandtool.com/products/14mm-x-14mm-x-2mm--T21348-JT-Carbide-Replacement-Inserts-for-Grizzly-Spiral-Heads.html that are priced between Grizzly and Global Tooling.

I've inquired with John at Global Tooling as to the exact dimensions of their inserts - may have to cancel my order and go with the German ones if the Global Tooling inserts are not the same size.

[follow up post]

I ended up ordering the exact-replacement inserts from Oella Saw and Tool http://www.oellasawandtool.com/products/14mm-x-14mm-x-2mm--T21348-JT-Carbide-Replacement-Inserts-for-Grizzly-Spiral-Heads.html, as they assured me that these were identical to the T21348 inserts required by the spiral head in the G0453PX (and G0453Z) planer. In fact, after placing my order online, I got a followup phone call from the company to confirm that I really wanted 30 (!) inserts and that these were really for the Grizzly cutter head. Very friendly folks and seemed to care about customer service.

Also on the plus side, shipping for my order of cutters and a bunch of replacement Torx head screws was less than $3.00 via USPS-no inflated shipping prices to to gouge a little more profit from their customers as is so common these days."


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## ssnvet

Had I not read the manual, it might have taken a moment to figure out the OFF button has to be turned, before the ON (start) button will start the motor. The red light indicates the unit is off and the knob needs to be turned, to turn on the jointer.

That's common on most newer pieces of equipment, as the off button serves the dual purpose of e-stop.

You'll likely find that most nicks occur at the corner of the carbide inserts, which means you have to rotate them 180 degrees and only get one turn out of them before replacement.

This is the exact jointer I want some day. Thanks for posting the thorough review.


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## kelvancra

Re "You'll likely find that most nicks occur at the corner of the carbide inserts, which means you have to rotate them 180 degrees and only get one turn out of them before replacement."

I figured, if Murphy showed up at my shop, again, I might want to consider running him through the jointer. This new information changes things [since he might be wearing a belt and buckle, as well as be packing a pocket knife or keys].


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## pintodeluxe

I have the Delta DJ-20, which is nearly identical to the 490. Is yours wired for 120 or 240 volt?
Mine is 120v, and I wonder if it would have enough power to spin a helical head for 8" face jointing.

I put a helical head in my Dewalt 735 planer and really like it. I do notice that I tend to take lighter cuts with the helical head.

Thanks for the review.


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## kelvancra

The G0490 (knives) and G0490X (helix head) are configured with three horse motors, so you're pretty much stuck with 220, which, of course, mine is.

As smooth as mine cuts, I have to wonder if it would do fine with a two or even a horse and a half motor. Even if it would, having the extra throttle is nice and more so in figured wood.

Regardless of power, I suspect staying with about 1/16" cuts, rather than the max of 1/8" is just a good practice.

Keep in mind, facts about the electrical aside, I am FAR from expert status on the operation of my jointer.


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## TheGreatJon

> I have the Delta DJ-20, which is nearly identical to the 490. Is yours wired for 120 or 240 volt?
> Mine is 120v, and I wonder if it would have enough power to spin a helical head for 8" face jointing.


Power should be unchanged. You will draw twice the amperage with a 120v input as compared to a 240v input, but that is just so that you get the same power. Power = voltage * amperage.


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## woodmaker

I have the same one since 2013- love it its been a work horse for all this time and have not had to rotate a tooth yet. I run a lot of walnut, maple and cherry through it, no problem.


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## Halc

I have the same jointer and it's time for me to rotate the cutters for the first time. I tried briefly a few days ago and couldn't loosen any of the screws that hold them in place. Do any of you have any tricks I could try to get them loose?


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## woodmaker

Halc, soak them in WD-40 might help to loosen them up.


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## pmayer

Halc,

I would use a hardened Torx bit in an impact driver to loosen these up. Those screws are really tight from the factory, so don't use a cheap bit or you will snap it for sure.


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## Halc

Mike and Paul,

Thanks for your suggestions. The edges I'm jointing are ok, the faces I joint need some sanding. I'm going to put up with it until winter weather arrives and I close up my garage shop until spring. I'll take the cutter head out and then I can work on those screws in my basement. I will keep your tips in mind. Thanks again.


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## kelvancra

I taped all mine in just a kiss on low with my Panasonic impact using the provided Torx drive bit. It worked, but twisted ninety degrees, so a hardened one, or two, for an impact, is a must. That said, an impact should do it.


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## Halc

Thanks Kelly.


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## panamawayne

I have a Grizzly 8 inch jointer with regular cutters and the fence always seems to be out of adjustment every time I go to use it, I had Grizzly send me a replacement adjusting bar but it made no difference, my last 6 inch Chinese jointer never had a problem.. are you guys having a similar problem with your fences?


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## Halc

I just check for square every time I move the fence. Sometimes I have to readjust and sometimes I don't. I guess I never really thought the fence should always remain square to the bed. Because of limited space, I have to move my jointer almost every time I use it. It always ends up sitting on a different spot on my garage floor, so I just think with all the movement involved the fence is probably not going to stay square.

In a previous comment I asked for advice on how to loosen the cutters on the spiral head. I did remove it and bring it inside. Following the advice of a couple of LJs, I sprayed some PB Blaster penetrating catalyst on the cutters and let it soak for about 15 minutes. I used a hardened torx bit in my impact driver and they all came out easily.


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## kelvancra

I went out and checked mine and it was still on the money nearly six months after the initial post. That said, your post is a reminder to not get so occupied by the project I forget to check. Unlike the table saw, this fence does move. Guess I should make a new sign to ignore. It would read "Check Everything, Then Go For It."


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## Rxmpo

Has anyone had an issue with the dust port connection on this machine? Says a 4" port, but my 4" hose doesn't fit without a great deal of slop. Enough for me to fit my finger between the hose and the dust fitting. Forget about 4" pvc.


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## Halc

My connection is reasonably tight, not at all as loose as you describe.


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## woodmaker

No issues at all on mine. Perfect fit


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## jmos

Kelly,

Thanks for the review. I just pulled the trigger on one myself and I'm waiting for delivery.

Could you possibly do me favor? I'm looking to set up some blocking so the mover I'm hiring to hump this into my basement can set it down at the same height as the stand, and I only have to walk it over (probably doing that myself.) Only, I can't find a stand height. If you would be willing to measure it off it would be greatly appreciated.


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## kelvancra

I'll be glad to do that in the morning. Are you talking exact measurments? For example, there must be a bit of difference when the front wheel is dropped.



> Kelly,
> 
> Thanks for the review. I just pulled the trigger on one myself and I'm waiting for delivery.
> 
> Could you possibly do me favor? I'm looking to set up some blocking so the mover I'm hiring to hump this into my basement can set it down at the same height as the stand, and I only have to walk it over (probably doing that myself.) Only, I can't find a stand height. If you would be willing to measure it off it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> - jmos


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## jmos

It doesn't have to be that close; say within 1/4" to 1/2". Please measure with the base on the floor, not with the wheel dropped. I'm just hoping to get the table on blocking about the same height as the base so I can slide the table onto the base instead of having to lift the whole thing at one time.

Thanks!


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## kelvancra

I got 25-3/4" (wheels up and stand solid on the floor).


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## jmos

Thank you Sir, much appreciated!


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## kelvancra

Just for reference, today is pushing the six years from the date I posted the initial review. I still have ZERO regrets about buying this machine.

The Grizzly jointer worked so well, including the fence staying spot on at 90, I took the plunge and bought a Grizzly two horse, 17" bandsaw, with cast iron wheels and brake to tend re-saw operations. It hasn't bogged yet, but that's the other review.


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