# Removing old veneer using a router



## sharptoolsl (Mar 17, 2018)

A while back I watched a show on TV wherein they used a router to strip the entire thin layer of damaged veneer from an old veneered solid wood door. For the life of me I don't remember where I saw it or exactly how they









did it. I vaguely remember some sort of custom router base that would give you a larger base that would ride on the veneer while routing the old veneer away. We purchased an old "fixer upper" and now I have an old solid core, veneered rear entry door with the same damaged veneer and would rather remove and replace the veneer than replace the door completely. Any thoughts or ideas on using a router for this project rather than the numerous other ways that I have seen and done on smaller projects ?


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

have you tried any other method yet ?
such as steaming with a wet towel and clothes iron ?
or - lightly heating with an electric heat gun ?

if most of the veneer is attached firmly, I would fill in the
loose parts, sand and veneer over the top of the existing.
to make a router sled would work as you envision to cut it off.
if - you have a pretty flat area to work with.

if you want to try the hand router, you can build a simple large base.


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

Sounds like a job for a router sled

Matt Cremona does a good explanation here;


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

If you use a straight cut router bit and set its depth to match the veneer thickness, then the router will cut through the veneer. That works great for one pass, where the router base is fully supported by the veneer surface. However, once you've removed the veneer in an area, you need some way to support the router or else you'll just keep cutting into the substrate.

The trick is to mount the router to a larger base, off center, so that there is a stable surface to keep riding on the veneer that supports the router and keeps it cutting just the veneer thickness.

I'd go with at least a 1" bit, larger if you can, so you're removing a large area per pass. You can make the auxiliary base out of MDF, or other suitable flat material. There are videos on how to make a router base to fit your router, but it mainly involves drilling holes to match the screw pattern on the router and countersinking them.

Here's one article showing the sort of fixture you could use. This one is a flush trim setup, but for your application, just extend the bit the veneer thickness.

http://www.startwoodworking.com/post/build-flush-trim-base-your-router

Also, there are a number of commercial products like the MPower CRB7 and Scott Groves new design that looks promising.


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

Rich,
with the offset base, how would you cut the last 10" to 12" at the end of the door when there is nothing left for a reference face. Shim the base with a piece of the new veneer?

Just curious, not a troll, but that was why I thought sled.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> if you want to try the hand router, you can build a simple large base.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The base in the photo is a good design. However, picking a photo with that router bit installed completely muddles the issue. That is not the type of bit the OP will want to use. He needs a straight bit:


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

I like johns approach, that if the bond is largely solid… Fill/sand and veneer over the old.

Question is what veneer do you plan to use? Most commercial veneer is 1/30th of 1/42nd inch.. thre is special stuff and thicknesses out there, ut most items kind of top out at only 1/16th inch these days.

not sure I would do the exterior of a door in that thin a material.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> Rich,
> with the offset base, how would you cut the last 10" to 12" at the end of the door when there is nothing left for a reference face. Shim the base with a piece of the new veneer?
> 
> Just curious, not a troll, but that was why I thought sled.
> ...


Done right, you could get it down to the final inch or two. He's doing a door, so once I got down to that last strip at the end, I'd turn sideways and continue. With care, you could get it down to a final one or two inch square.

The problems I see with a sled are first, the size. That's probably 36 inches wide and 80 inches tall. That's a big sled. Second, unless the door is perfectly flat, you'll run into problems. The size would be a show-stopper for me though.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> I like johns approach, that if the bond is largely solid… Fill/sand and veneer over the old.
> 
> - DrDirt


While applying fresh veneer over the old would work in many cases, this is a door that is already hung. Adding the thickness of new veneer could prevent the door from closing properly, which would require adjusting the hinges and lock set (filling and cutting fresh mortises), or trimming the door stop all the way around.


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## sharptoolsl (Mar 17, 2018)

Thank you for the many replies. I think that along with my "experience" and that of all whom have commented I can get the job done. Regards. Sharptools.


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

Yeah, I think this would be a case for a new door.
Otherwise, I would take it to a wood shop and see if you could get it drum sanded.
(probably cost as much as a new door blank though)


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

> The problems I see with a sled are first, the size. That s probably 36 inches wide and 80 inches tall. That s a big sled. Second, unless the door is perfectly flat, you ll run into problems. The size would be a show-stopper for me though.
> 
> - Rich


Thanks Rich, good perspective


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