# Transporting 4x8 sheets of hardwood ply in a small bed pickup



## davidmw

My problem is I'm going to need to transport some full (4'x8') sheets of plywood from the big box store (Menards in this case) and the largest vehicle I have is a double cab tacoma with a small bed. The dimensions are ~40" between the wheel wells, 57" between the sides of the box and the bed length is ~60".

My primary concern is protecting the hardwood layer from scratches and dings. One thing I've considered is building a cradle for it out of a standard sheet of ply that I can attach to the bed and a blanket to protect the finish.

Has anyone come up with any creative solutions for this problem? Pictures are of course appreciated.


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## davidmw

I had a feeling that would be one of the responses… the next truck I buy will be a nice big Tundra with a monster V8 and a full bed, but for now I don't have that luxury.

How about I set a budget limit of $100


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## darinS

I've just put a blanket on the inside portion of the bed of the truck, lenaed the plywood on it, tied it down, and driven off. Then again, I usually wasn't getting the hardwood veneered ply. Didn't seem to scratch anything for me anyway.


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## ajosephg

I have the same problem with my S-10. What I do is put the tail gate up and place the plywood so that one edge lays on the front floor of the bed, and the other end rests on the tail gate. That way, the plywood has only two contact points. If I'm concerned about marking the ply, or damaging the front edge I put a moving blanket around the front to protect the edge, and a piece of cardboard or carpet over the top of the tailgate. It doesn't need to be tied down because the natural airflow will hold it down.

Normally I don't sweat the edge because in most cases it will be trimmed away anyway, and usually the edge already has a ding when I get it, or will get one in the shop.

Someday, I'm going to make a rack out of 2×4's that will rest in the cut-outs in the bed to support the plywood in a flat plane above the wheel wells. In this case the tail gate will be down. In this situation everything will have to be tied down so the plywood doesn't slide out the back.


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## MikeInMiss

My Chevy S10 has places on the side to put 2×4's so you can slide the wood over the wheel wells.


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## davidmw

@landog http://www.toyota.com/tundra/
Yes, it's a truck.

@ajosephg I like the idea of building a rack that sits in the bed. I was going to build one anyway to use as a sort of rough cut panel saw, perhaps I'll just build it to accommodate both purposes. For now you're right though, denting the ends isn't really a concern.


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## muleskinner

"How about I set a budget limit of $100 "

In that case I'd just throw in a sheet of cdx or chip board to throw on the bottom. Heck, you can always use it somewhere.


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## dbhost

Rent a 4×8 trailer. The bed in those double cab mini trucks are mostly useless for hauling building materials.

Maybe design and build a rack that fastens in the bed, that will haul your sheet goods over the roof level of the truck. I had something like that in a 6' box Ford Ranger I had years ago…

Please, next time, buy American. We need the jobs. Don't check the badge on the hood, check the country of origin stamp on the door sticker…

Oh, FWIW, my '04 F-150 6.5' box I simply lay the tailgate down, load my lumber, and secure it with ratchet straps to the cargo tie downs… I hate feeding it, but I love having an honest to goodness full size pickup….


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## agallant

You should have slots to put 2X4 so you can slide the wood over the wells.


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## KnotWright

Yes depending on the year model of your Tacoma, you'll have places on the sides to lay a 2×4 flat across the bed just above the wheel well that will support a 4×8 sheet of plywood. I've got a 2006 with the 6' bed and I have these spots for that.

I just wish Toyota would have put the same ties downs on the bed of the truck at the front and the back. Mine just has a set at the rear of the bed, plan on installing another set at the front so you can make an "X" with the straps over the plywood.


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## ajosephg

I'm thinking about a two level rack that will support sheet goods on the top level, and boards on the bottom level. It would extend out the back of the bed and at the very back have an end gate thingy that would flip up to keep the load from falling out.

In the meantime just get a two by and cut it to fit the bed cut outs and tie the ply to the bed tie-downs.


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## rance

The 'Bed Sled'. 2×4's, 1/2" ply, and some hinges. Way less than $100. Build to suit your dimensions. I'd make the ply 1/4" shorter than the 2×4 frame so it wouldn't tend to scratch what you put on it. You could also line the tops of the 2×4's with a strip of carpet.










And it folds up for easy storage.


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## Racer2007

rance, that is a very cool idea you got there. And I assume it can even be made to fit one of those Toy trucks.  Sorry I just had to say that since I really like landog's fix for the problem.


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## rance

LOL! Absolutely Richard.  Like it was mentioned though, you have to feed it.

Here I've added a back cross brace(loose, not attached to the rest). It wedges tight against the back of the bed to keep the 'Bed Sled' from sliding out onto the road. "Why would it do that?", you ask? Because I also added rope tie downs to the front-most edge to keep your new purchase from falling out.The length of the 'Bed Sled' would now need to be the length of the bed minus 1.5" for the 2×4.


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## davidmw

I don't think mine has the 2×4 supports, I'll check though, that will be the easiest solution. I really like the 'bed sled' idea, compact and very functional. I'm thinking I could build some kind of triangular support that attaches to a 2×2 square steel support extending out of the trailer hitch. That should give a good solid fixed point so nothing can slide out. I smell a weekend project coming on…

Regarding the "buy American" comment, all I'll say is this. I will happily sell my truck (that was assembled in TX) and buy an American brand one when you get rid of all your non-American made tools and buy American equivalents. I'll start a non-shop talk forum later tonight if anyone is interested in continuing the discussion.


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## rance

Looking toward the tailgate, you can see from this angle that the rear 2×4 is just sitting on the bottom of the bed. No need for 2×4 supports like you've seen.


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## davidmw

You even colored it red like my truck


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## richgreer

On my crew cab Colorado I also have a narrow and short bed. However, high on the wheel wells are some indentations that are just right for supporting a 4×8 sheet of plywood about 8" about the floor of the bed. Also, I can set my tailgate to an interim position that raises the edge of the tailgate to be level with those indentations.

It carries a 4×8 sheet of plywood well with support on both sides at the front and across the edge of the tailgate at the back. There is a slight sag problem that I address by putting an 8" high block of wood on the bed of the floor between the 2 wheel wells.

FYI, if I am buying thin stock or (heaven forbid) drywall I always buy (or take with me) a 3/4" sheet to put on the bottom of the stack. Note that if I am buying drywall you know I am about to have a day I will not be enjoying.


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## dbhost

The bed sled idea is a good one! However I wonder, there is a LOT of material hanging over the ends of that thing… What keeps that material from using the ends of it as a fulcrum and rotating?

No disrespect meant about the truck / origin… I am very aware that Toyota has a large amount of their production being done in the U.S., which is why I mention read the door label… The same model can be made in one of several different countries…


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## CryptKeeper

In my '92 Nissan I built a 2×4 frame over the wheel wells. I like rance's design better with on one addition, I ran into a problem with the bottom sheet getting scared from from the contact vibration of the 2×4's frame - I solved that problem by covering the frame with 3/4" pipe foam insulation.


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## rance

David, sorry for so many posts(or is that 2×4's). This thing just intrigued me. I'm opening up another thread in my 'Virtual SU series'. I keep adding things to this, didn't want to overtake your thread.

Ron, I suggested earlier that carpet might be good to line the tops. I like your pipe insulation idea better though.


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## davidmw

@rance No worries, I like all the ideas. As far as I'm concerned it's exactly what I was hoping for.


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## davidmw

I'm debating buying something like this to serve as the frame for a bed extension. Seems like it would be good way to add stability to the end and keep it from sagging. It's hard to find the raw materials for as cheap as HF is selling this thing and they already went to the trouble of painting it and putting in a hitch pin.


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## CryptKeeper

Rance, the one thing I found with carpet is if it got wet it stayed wet I didn't seem to have the problem with the foam.


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## davidmw

Regarding the carpet, I wonder how well something like the carpet on boat trailers would work. Or astroturf.


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## rance

Joe, In all fairness, you really suggested the 2×4 solution before I posted my drawings. I just re-read your 2nd post. I really like the idea of the lip on the rear to keep things in.


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## ajosephg

Rance, if I get some time I'll try to make a conceptual drawing to better explain what I'm thinking about. It's one of those Around Tuit things that I think about every time I need to haul wood. Besides the flip up tail gate thingy, The lower level would be held in place by two boards - one just behind the wheel wells to keep it from sliding fwd, and another board just in front of the rear of the bead to keep it from sliding backwards. Those boards would attach to a few more boards than extend out the back and receive support from the lowered tail gate.

I really like the simplicity of your design if you're only hauling plywood.


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## GaryK

I have a shell on the back of my Frontier and I built small cabinets along the length of the bed over each wheel well.
They are the same height as the bed so I can slide 3 to 5 4×8 sheets in there, hanging out the back by about 18".
I just tie a rope over the ends to keep the top ones from sliding out.


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## GregD

If you lay 2 or 3 8' 2×4s from the top of your closed tailgate to the bottom front corner of the bed will a 4×8 sheet of plywood on top clear the wheel wells? If not you could build something simple to raise the front ends of the 2×4s until the plywood clears the wheel wells. Sliding plywood over studs should not cause any significant scratches unless you get some grit in there.


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## lilredweldingrod

David I have a C-30 flat bed that is 11 feet long. I had to haul a 8×20 sheet of steel fron LA up here. I made a 2"x2" steel tube in the hitch receiver and added a T at the end. That works great if you have a standard receiver on your truck.


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## CharlieM1958

Greg is right. A couple of 2×4's for support, tailgate up, slide 'em in. I'm thinking you guys could make sex complicated. Geez!


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## TopamaxSurvivor

What Charlie sez ^2 ;-))


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## DanLyke

I built a platform in the back of my Mazda B6000/Ford Ranger, which raises the bed height to the height of the wheel wells, with slide-out storage underneath (that also turns into tables, for camping).

Then I generally buy two sheets of cheap plywood to sandwich the good stuff in. I keep it around for hauling the good stuff 'til I have a use for the cheap stuff. Cheap 5/8" or ¾" ply is always handy to have around for building templates or shelves or what-have-you.


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## JohnWayne

I made a small set of saw horses that clear the top of my wheel wells by an inch or so. It works just fine in my Dakota. Cost: $10 in 2×4s


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## mrtoasty

I just call Frank Miller Lumber company and they deliver it to the door. Works for me.


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