# Building the "Swiss Army Knife" of Small Boats...Wood Duck Double



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Overview*

*Needing an Intervention?*
I like to plan and build things from wood…the more complicated, the better! I especially enjoy building small boats. Previous boat builds included a tandem sea kayak, single racing kayak, single recreation kayak, mini ski boat, single performance/play kayak, skin-on-frame rowing shell, and three duck hunting layout boats. I even built a teardrop camper in 2016.

I recently finished part of my basement and lost some of my small boat storage. That leaves me with space for two kayaks on the ceiling, my rowing shell and triple kayak on the wall, and my Grumman Sportboat in the third stall of the garage. My wife's single kayak occupies one space on the ceiling and that leaves me with one spot for a rereational kayak.

*Can One Boat Do it All?*
Having moved back to MN six years ago, I've settled into a number of outdoor activities that I enjoy a lot. These include fishing for northern pike, hunting ducks, kayaking on Lake Superior, and sailing.










I netted this 32" northern pike for my wife when we were kayak fishing. She didn't have her own net as she had yet to experience the thrill of landing a toothy pike from a kayak and wasn't "all in." She has one now!










I caught this 38" northern pike while fishing from my Grumman Sportboat.










I've spent a lot of time searching for a boat that could safely and comfortably do all of these activities and I think the Chesapeake Light Craft Wood Duck Double kayak would work quite well. I sold my duck hunting layout boat and a solo canoe with a nice duck blind a few weeks ago. I'll sell my Current Designs Solara 135 fishing kayak after I complete the build of the new kayak. The kit will arrive in the next few days. I hope to complete the build in about a month…that could be wishful thinking since I'm also in the final stages of finishing my basement!!!

*Next*
Why the Wood Duck Double will make a good Lake Superior kayak.


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

DustyMark said:


> *Overview*
> 
> *Needing an Intervention?*
> I like to plan and build things from wood…the more complicated, the better! I especially enjoy building small boats. Previous boat builds included a tandem sea kayak, single racing kayak, single recreation kayak, mini ski boat, single performance/play kayak, skin-on-frame rowing shell, and three duck hunting layout boats. I even built a teardrop camper in 2016.
> ...


1. nice story
2. nice fish
3. I'll be watching for your posts.

Seriously, sounds like a good time project. Nice to have something you can lay out yourself for your own needs and do it they way you want instead of the way some company thinks you want it. I fish a bit but not from a kayak. But, not from something all that more involved wither. Keep posting..


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

DustyMark said:


> *Overview*
> 
> *Needing an Intervention?*
> I like to plan and build things from wood…the more complicated, the better! I especially enjoy building small boats. Previous boat builds included a tandem sea kayak, single racing kayak, single recreation kayak, mini ski boat, single performance/play kayak, skin-on-frame rowing shell, and three duck hunting layout boats. I even built a teardrop camper in 2016.
> ...


For some reason it posted twice. Once above and once here….. I've deleted the text but can't the comment.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Overview*
> 
> *Needing an Intervention?*
> I like to plan and build things from wood…the more complicated, the better! I especially enjoy building small boats. Previous boat builds included a tandem sea kayak, single racing kayak, single recreation kayak, mini ski boat, single performance/play kayak, skin-on-frame rowing shell, and three duck hunting layout boats. I even built a teardrop camper in 2016.
> ...


Thanks! This going to be a fun build with trying to make the boat do so many different things…hopefully well!


----------



## metolius (May 26, 2016)

DustyMark said:


> *Overview*
> 
> *Needing an Intervention?*
> I like to plan and build things from wood…the more complicated, the better! I especially enjoy building small boats. Previous boat builds included a tandem sea kayak, single racing kayak, single recreation kayak, mini ski boat, single performance/play kayak, skin-on-frame rowing shell, and three duck hunting layout boats. I even built a teardrop camper in 2016.
> ...


Its been a long time since Ive been around a stack of "Wooden Boat" magazines. 
It seems that maybe you are fishing for some type of sailing canoe. 
? of this sort ? https://www.duckworks.com/category-s/491.htm


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Overview*
> 
> *Needing an Intervention?*
> I like to plan and build things from wood…the more complicated, the better! I especially enjoy building small boats. Previous boat builds included a tandem sea kayak, single racing kayak, single recreation kayak, mini ski boat, single performance/play kayak, skin-on-frame rowing shell, and three duck hunting layout boats. I even built a teardrop camper in 2016.
> ...


Derek:
There are a lot of good designs in that link. I already bought the kit for the Wood Duck Double kayak. The sailing part is the lowest priority for me, but I plan to build the CLC kayak sailing rig with 10' amas and akas.

I bought the plans last year with the intent of installing it on our triple kayak to boost our distances traveled per day and I'm glad that I waited. Putting this rig on the Wood Duck Double will make it a fun day sailer. We'll just keep paddling our triple since it would be to complicated to land it with the wide sail rig at our favorite primitive campsites in the Apostle Islands. I plan to build the sail rig over the coming winter.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Why the WDD Will Make a Good Lake Superior Kayak*

*Our Camping Style*
We have a truck and a smaller-sized travel trailer that we use as a base camp for our outdoor activities, which include sea kayaking, fishing, and mountain biking.










Keeping the kayaks to 14' or less makes for an easier lift to the roof of the truck and allows the topper door to open without interference. At 60 pounds, the Wood Duck Double is actually pretty light for it's generous 30" beam. At 14', it's only 6" longer than the blue kayak on the roof in this photo…a good fit.

*Sea Kayaking Lake Superior*










We own a super sea-worthy, 22 1/2' triple kayak for multi-day expeditions on Lake Superior.










However, we also camp near the lake often with our travel trailer and take frequent day trips in our single kayaks. This photo is near some sea caves. Mary's boat is only 24" wide, but has proved very stable for a multi-use kayak.










A nice feature of the Wood Duck Double (above) is that we could use it as a single or a double kayak when we paddle on Lake Superior. Obviously, it wouldn't be safe to paddle it open, but I can certainly sew some custom spray skirts to keep the big lake at bay.










Copper has great small boat manners and he's been out in four foot seas with us on our expeditions in his "dog cockpit!"

*Outfitting Considerations*
Spray skirts are needed for the short, steep chop common in the areas of Lake Superior we paddle. I plan to sew multiple spray skirts for our various uses. Skirt one=me paddling solo. Skirt two=tandem paddling. I'll probably have to devise a thigh strap like what is used on sit-on-top kayaks for the stern paddler since their legs are above the coaming ring and they'll need a means of "becoming one with the boat." Skirt three=me paddling with the dog behind me.

Venturing out on the big lake and hoping to add a sail rig in the future, pushed me to include a rudder in the original build. I'll rig it to operate from the front position so that it works for solo or tandem operations. That puts Mary in the stern when we paddle tandem, opposite of the way we paddle in the triple, but that should be fine for day trips.

*Seaworthiness*
I built a Wood Duck 10' for my daughter, but I ended up with it when she moved and had nowhere to store it safely. The hard-chined hull made that "recreational" kayak a high performer in stability, tracking, and speed. I'm anticipating even better performance from the Wood Duck Double. The 30" beam threads the needle with the friction between speed lost and stability gained by going wider. Our triple kayak is 30" wide and is amazingly stable in the worst of conditions. I'm fully expecting great seaworthiness from this boat with its 400-pound payload capacity for our day trips on Lake Superior.

*Next*
Why the Wood Duck Double will make a good fishing kayak.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Why the WDD Will Make a Good Fishing Kayak*

*Features for Fishing*
The Wood Duck Double is the perfect size for kayak fishing. At 14' long, it will paddle quickly, remain maneuverable, and haul a lot of gear well. The hard chine hull holds its track quite well. The Wood Duck 10 I used to own tracked like it was on rails and never needed a rudder. My brother-in-law bought it from me and I helped him outfit it for fishing. He's been out on some crazy windy days and never had any problems with handling or stability. The 30" beam will lend itself to landing big northerns and being able to fly fish without feeling "twitchy."










The photo above shows the massive cockpit that measures in at 84 1/2" long by 20 1/2" wide. This will allow me to carry my fish cooler on the floor!










This photo shows my current kayak fishing setup. The rounded hull doesn't track as well as a hard-chined Wood Duck and it definitely needs its rudder on a breezy day.

The cooler on the rear deck weighs 20 pounds and I carry 8 pounds of blue ice in it. Add a few nice northerns in it and the rear deck mounting results in a pretty high center of gravity. A couple of weekends ago I paddled in with about 25 pounds of northern pike on my lap since I had forgotten the cooler at home…that was maybe a good thing!

*Rigging Plans*
I'll likely mount my seat about 48" back from the front of the coaming ring. That will allow me to mount my plywood fishing shelf at the bow and remain free of my forward stroke during paddling. I'll mount rod holders, hook removal kit, a Humminbird Helix 7 fish finder, and the transducer on the front shelf.

I'll mount a back board across the top of the coaming behind my seat. This will hold a couple of rod holders and an Anchor Wizard anchor system. The Anchor Wizard will also be rigged through a Yakattack anchor trolley mounted on the port side. I'll also likely carry my anchor pole for shallow water fishing/anchoring and run that through the anchor trolley.

*Trim *
A potential issue with this boat is that my fore and aft trim might be too far forward when paddling it solo. I'm thinking that by setting my normal seated position a full 48" back from the front of the coaming it won't be a problem. While hunting, I'll have Copper and a load of decoys behind me…no problem with trim. When fishing, I'll have my cooler and safety gear behind me…probably no problem. When kayaking Lake Superior, I'll have Copper behind me most of the time…no problem.

Another potential weakness of my plan is that I'm not sure if my thighs will land comfortably under the deck while seated so far back. I won't know that until I have the hull and deck joined. I'm not letting that stop me as I can do some modifications to make it work…nothing like "winging it!"

*Next*
Why the Wood Duck Double will make a good duck hunting kayak.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Why the WDD Will Make a Good Duck Hunting Kayak*

*Layout Blind*
One approach to hunt ducks is to get as low as possible underneath a blind that matches the local vegetation as closely as possible. Field hunters do this in a layout blind. The same approach can be achieved in a layout boat.










This is my nephew in the layout boat I helped him build in 2015. He's sitting rather upright in it in this photo because the vegetation is pretty high and he can get away with it. He hadn't finished the back side of the blind at this point. You can imagine that this would be very hard for a duck to spot.










This is a good photo of my old layout boat all brushed out. The boat was 14' long, 45" wide, and weighed 160pounds. That low weight made the boat so stable that you could walk around the perimeter of it and not tip! However, the best way to propel it was by rowing and going backwards at night isn't my favorite thing to do.










You can see the arrangement with the doors open. Copper hunkers down behind my head and he can still mark the birds as I shoot them.

*Upright Blinds*
Most duck hunters conceal themselves in a more upright blind. This allows for a better 360 degree view of the sky for incoming ducks.










This is the blind I made and brushed with Fast Grass for my old solo canoe. I sat on a bass boat seat mounted on a swivel resting on the floor. It was a pretty good hide if you were backed up against cattails, but the solo canoe wasn't as stable as a kayak. I sold it this spring to make room for this kayak build.










This is a view of the backside of the blind I built for my Grumman Sportboat. This blind is also brushed with Fast Grass. It's very deluxe with its roof and is an excellent hide backed up against or in cattails. Twice, I've had wary geese land at my feet! I hunt with a friend, Copper, a full load of decoys, and a mud motor on this rig…very nice! Not getting rid of this one…

*Layout Kayak*
There is a trend for duck hunters to hunt from kayaks instead of layout boats or canoes. These hybrid kayaks typically have a beam of 32" or more. The Wood Duck Double only has a beam of 30", but I think it will suit me fine. The question is whether it will be stable enough for Copper to launch out of the boat on a retrieve without tipping me over! I can leave him behind and retrieve my own ducks on the type of hunts I'll do with this kayak, so I'm okay with not knowing until we do some on-the-water tests this summer.

The cockpit is longer on this kayak than my old layout boat, plus my feet can be stowed below the deck as well. There will definitely be enough room to lay down in the layout boat mode in this boat. My goal is to create a blind that I can paddle fully assembled. We found ducks in flooded timber last fall and discovered that they wanted to come back to the same spot shortly after we spooked them. I need the set-up to be fast so that I can flush the birds, throw a half-dozen decoys, and be set in the layout blind in just over a minute. I think it can be done.

I'll brush the blind with a thin coat of Rafia grass, which is less bulky than Fast Grass. I'll likely supplement it with natural vegetation to match the area I'm hunting at the time.










I purchased a folding layout board from Four Rivers that has five different recline positions. Here it's in the full layout position.










Here it's in the second-most upright position. I needed a seat like this so that it can serve dual purposes. There's not enough room for a standard kayak seat and a layout board. This also makes for a quicker transition.

I have high hopes for this kayak as an effective layout kayak. I teach a college course that ties me down a bit during duck season. However, once I'm fully retired, this kayak will be great to take to the prairie pothole region of North Dakota!

*Update*

The boat worked great for duck hunting…I couldn't be more pleased. While not as stable as my old layout boat, it was about 100 pounds lighter and way easier to drag over beaver dams and other obstructions along the way.










Here's a photo of it deployed on one of my favorite spots. The ducks cup right in front of me!

*Next*
Why the WDD will make a good sailing kayak.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Why the WDD Will Make a Good Sailing Kayak*

*Previous Sailing Kayaks*
In 1996, my late wife and I bought a pair of Nautiraid folding sea kayaks, rigged them with Balogh Sail Designs sails, and brought them with us when we were stationed in Germany for three years.










It was a great way to get our young family out on the water.










We paddled rivers through wine country, passing by an occasional castle.










We sailed alpine lakes in several locations and discovered that kayak sail rigs were quite a bit of fun. They didn't yield Hobie Cat performance, but you still got the satisfaction of harnessing the wind for a free ride! We sold those folding kayaks upon our return to the states in favor of more traditional boats.

*Chesapeake Light Craft's Kayak Sail Rig*
I've bought and sold two small sailboats since and would like to return to day sailing. A kayak sail rig is a good way to sail without the complications of a bigger boat.










The CLC kayak sail rig uses laminated wood akas (cross beams) joined to plywood amas (outriggers) to stabilize the kayak for sailing.










The akas are joined to the kayak by a simple lashing system.

John Harris, the owner of Chesapeake Light Craft, says that "relatively short and fat kayaks make the best subjects for trimaran conversion." He adds that "given my choice of CLC's 70+ kayak models, I'd mount my CLC sail rig on the Wood Duck 12. It would squirt along joyfully, fast and nimble in in close-handling, the cockpit dry and voluminous." The WDD is two feet longer and will support two passengers while sailing…it should be a lot of fun! I plan to build the sail rig over the winter.

*Sail *
I plan to use a sail in the 50 square foot size range. I'm considering two options. Option one is to sew my own from a kit made by Sailrite Kits. Option two is to buy a 5 Meter (54 sq. ft.) sail from Balogh Sail Designs. Option one is a lot less expensive and that's my likely path!

*Update*

The Wood Duck Double would have made a great day sailer. However, my wife convinced me to spend a bit more and outfit our triple kayak with a schooner rig instead. I'll use a Balogh Sail Designs 32' Sport at the bow and a 36' HP Sport at the stern. I'll build Chesapeake Light Craft amas mounted to a folding aka system similar to the Trika 540. This will give us more utility since we can use the sails to extend our range on actual kayak expeditions. I may install a Balogh Sail Designs BOSS outrigger system and use one of the sails from the triple kayak on it in a couple of years.

*Next*
Surveying the Wood Duck Double kit.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Why the WDD Will Make a Good Sailing Kayak*
> 
> *Previous Sailing Kayaks*
> In 1996, my late wife and I bought a pair of Nautiraid folding sea kayaks, rigged them with Balogh Sail Designs sails, and brought them with us when we were stationed in Germany for three years.
> ...


I had a great, 40-minute, conversation today with David Valverde (owner of Balogh Sail Designs) about how best to rig the Wood Duck Double for sailing. He suggested his 36 HP would be the largest sail he's recommend installing in order to avoid the bow plowing with such a short kayak. He convinced me and I'll order his Batwing 36 HP sail, mast, boom, and rigging in the fall. I'll combine this with the Chesapeake Light Craft ama/aka system for a sail rig that will be great for day sailing the Apostle Islands of Lake Superior.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Surveying the Kit*

*Arrived!*
The plywood kit arrived yesterday and I unboxed it soon afterwards.










The smaller box with the epoxy arrived a couple days ago via Fedex. The CNC-cut plywood parts shipped via freight.










CLC has sold well over 30,000 kits and they've got packing them up down to a science.










This is the contents of the epoxy and filler kit.










These are the hull and deck parts laid out in preparation for gluing up the puzzle joints that join pieces to make them full length.

*Back Bands Missing*
The back bands were missed during the packing process. I sent CLC an email and I'm sure they'll make it right with no problems.

*Next*
Gluing the puzzle joints.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Gluing the Puzzle Joints*

*CNC Routed Joints Rock!*
I built two kayaks from plans in the mid-nineties. I scarf-jointed the panels and lofted the curves from offset measurements. It was neat to know I did it all myself, but it's even neater to get on with it and crank out a kit boat in a short amount of time…getting it on the water.










Here's a panel with the puzzle joints dry fitted. These joints are amazingly tight, but not too tight. Their design provides a lot of glue surface.










The back side of each joint has router fuzz. I sand this with 100 grit by hand. It comes off easily.










This is the same joint after sanding. The inside edges of these joints get painted with a thickened coat of epoxy prior to assembly. Then they're fiberglassed.










The joint after fiberglassing. Notice there is a little chip missing on one of the ears. This is on the inside of the boat, plus I'm painting the entire boat flat hunter green…no need for the normal level of "fussiness" on this utility build. The fiberglass tape holds the two pieces together during hull and deck assembly. The whole panel will receive a layer of fiberglass during construction. What a time-saving process that allows the average hobbyist to build a beautiful, high-performance kayak.

*Fixing a Mistake*










I broke one joint on the coaming ring while sanding it. Super glue is your friend at times like this. I used gel glue to assemble the joint and then filled it further with medium. I shot accelerant on it to speed up the cure.










Here's the joint after repair.










This is the same broken joint after fiberglassing. The coaming ring is fiberglassed and this broken joint won't affect the final strength. Tonight, I'll trim the excess fiberglass off with a razor blade. This is much easier before the epoxy reaches full cure. The panels will be cured enough for the next step in 24 hours.

*Next*
Beveling the panel edges.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Beveling the Panel Edges*

*Back to the Boat*
I installed a suspended ceiling and finished wiring the lights and switches in my finished basement project and also took a week vacation to Madeline Island in Lake Superior since last working on the kayak. I'm finally working on it a little bit between fishing and camping trips…I love summer in MN!

*Sharpening a Block Plane Blade with a Tormek Sharpener*
Beveling edges cleanly on thin mahogany plywood is best done with a sharp plane. My block plane blade was dull from a previous "abusive" project.










I've used a Tormek water sharpening system for years. I like the slow, controlled grinding process that puts on a fine edge quite accurately. The accuracy comes from expensive jigs, but the investment does pay dividends in a shop full of sharp tools. I established a 25 degree bevel for this project.










Removing the burr with a fine diamond stone.










Establishing a fine bevel with the same stone by hand.










Here's the edge after fine honing on the diamond stone. I touched up the blade with four strokes using this method after completing two edges on two panels. That's about 60 feet of beveling, including crossing the cured fiberglass in four areas. This is only a Stanley block plane with a very shallow bevel and it doesn't hold up much more than that for a good cut anyways.

*Beveling Process*
Most of the panel edges are beveled to 45 degrees. This provides a place to apply thickened glued where the panels meet. The bow and stern are beveled to a shallower angle as they come together at a fine point.










The plywood planes down quickly with a sharp blade. The idea is to be smooth and not ruin the flowing curves of the panels as you bevel them.










Shallower bevel at the bow.










Front edge of side panel.










Deck panel.










Deck panel that transitions from a bevel to no bevel.

*Next*
Stitching the hull together.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Stitching the Hull Together*

*Dry Fitting Steps*
At this stage the panels were ready for assembly. First the hull is stitched together with copper wire. Almost all of the holes are pre-drilled by the CNC machine…amazing! Second, the deck is stitched together. Third, the deck and hull are dry fitted to each other to ensure a good fit. Fourth, the deck and hull are tacked with thickened epoxy and dry fitted together as the epoxy cures to make sure they fit together properly when final glued.

*Dry Fitting the Hull*
We begin with dry fitting the lower hull panels.










The lower panels of the hull are stitched together along the keel line.










The bow and stern bulkheads and a temporary form in the middle are stitched in to give the hull its shape.










The side panels are stitched in next. View of the forward bulkhead.










View of the temporary form.










View of the stern bulkhead.










Here's the hull after an evening of stitching. Notice that everything is stitched loosely at this point. We'll tighten things up later.

*Next*
Stitching the rest of the boat.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Stitching the Hull Together*
> 
> *Dry Fitting Steps*
> At this stage the panels were ready for assembly. First the hull is stitched together with copper wire. Almost all of the holes are pre-drilled by the CNC machine…amazing! Second, the deck is stitched together. Third, the deck and hull are dry fitted to each other to ensure a good fit. Fourth, the deck and hull are tacked with thickened epoxy and dry fitted together as the epoxy cures to make sure they fit together properly when final glued.
> ...


Interesting build!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Stitching the Hull Together*
> 
> *Dry Fitting Steps*
> At this stage the panels were ready for assembly. First the hull is stitched together with copper wire. Almost all of the holes are pre-drilled by the CNC machine…amazing! Second, the deck is stitched together. Third, the deck and hull are dry fitted to each other to ensure a good fit. Fourth, the deck and hull are tacked with thickened epoxy and dry fitted together as the epoxy cures to make sure they fit together properly when final glued.
> ...


Thanks! Building these kits is a lot of fun and paddling them later is even better…


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

DustyMark said:


> *Stitching the Hull Together*
> 
> *Dry Fitting Steps*
> At this stage the panels were ready for assembly. First the hull is stitched together with copper wire. Almost all of the holes are pre-drilled by the CNC machine…amazing! Second, the deck is stitched together. Third, the deck and hull are dry fitted to each other to ensure a good fit. Fourth, the deck and hull are tacked with thickened epoxy and dry fitted together as the epoxy cures to make sure they fit together properly when final glued.
> ...


This is a fine looking little boat and you are doing a very conscientious construction. You deserve more comments. 
Good luck with it and enjoy your time in the shop and on the water.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Stitching the Hull Together*
> 
> *Dry Fitting Steps*
> At this stage the panels were ready for assembly. First the hull is stitched together with copper wire. Almost all of the holes are pre-drilled by the CNC machine…amazing! Second, the deck is stitched together. Third, the deck and hull are dry fitted to each other to ensure a good fit. Fourth, the deck and hull are tacked with thickened epoxy and dry fitted together as the epoxy cures to make sure they fit together properly when final glued.
> ...


Thanks! Blogging these bigger projects "live" helps me think through the steps as I go.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

DustyMark said:


> *Stitching the Hull Together*
> 
> *Dry Fitting Steps*
> At this stage the panels were ready for assembly. First the hull is stitched together with copper wire. Almost all of the holes are pre-drilled by the CNC machine…amazing! Second, the deck is stitched together. Third, the deck and hull are dry fitted to each other to ensure a good fit. Fourth, the deck and hull are tacked with thickened epoxy and dry fitted together as the epoxy cures to make sure they fit together properly when final glued.
> ...


Very interesting build, I'm learning a lot!!!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Stitching the Hull Together*
> 
> *Dry Fitting Steps*
> At this stage the panels were ready for assembly. First the hull is stitched together with copper wire. Almost all of the holes are pre-drilled by the CNC machine…amazing! Second, the deck is stitched together. Third, the deck and hull are dry fitted to each other to ensure a good fit. Fourth, the deck and hull are tacked with thickened epoxy and dry fitted together as the epoxy cures to make sure they fit together properly when final glued.
> ...


Thanks! These boat kits don't require a shop full of tools to complete either.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Stitching the Rest of the Boat*

*Mistakes*










I stitched the stern of the kayak together, forgetting that there is a wineglass transom. I also forgot to bevel a curved area on the bow. I unstitched that area and was able to plane it with no big impact.










No big deal, I just snipped the stern stitches and wired in the transom.










View of the hull.

*Wiring the Deck*










Stitching begins at the front of the coaming area with the deck panel.










Sheer panels are stitched next. My Dad made a timely visit and I draft him into helping me wire the temporary forms to the deck…that was easier than wrestling those into position solo!

*Wiring Deck to the Hull*
The deck is temporarily wired to the hull to check the fit.










View of transom.










Stern bulkhead and a temporary form.










Temporary forms in the bow area.










It's neat to see the shape and size of the kayak. It looks like a good fit for my varied uses.










The spring clamp helps achieves the desired shape. The sandpaper keeps the clamp from slipping.










Same trick at the stern.

*Next*
I'll build simple cradles to keep from getting a twist in the boat during glue-up. After that, I'll tack the hull and deck with thickened epoxy.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Stitching the Rest of the Boat*
> 
> *Mistakes*
> 
> ...


Interesting build…I had never seen stitching on a boat.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

DustyMark said:


> *Stitching the Rest of the Boat*
> 
> *Mistakes*
> 
> ...


Hey hey. This brings back good memories. I built their large canoe many years ago. It will be fun to watch you finish it.

Steve


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Stitching the Rest of the Boat*
> 
> *Mistakes*
> 
> ...


Stitch and glue construction allows some amazing designs in small boats. Guys like John Harris, Eric Schade, and Nick Schade have put high performance small boats within reach of amateur builders. Stitch and glue boats are light, rigid, fast, and quite durable. You get a whole lot of boat for the money and effort.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Support Cradles*

*Simple Cradles*
I picked two spots on the bottom of the hull that seemed to be good support points and transferred the angles with a protractor to some scrap 1/4" plywood. After confirming a good fit, I cut the cradles from scrap 3/4" plywood and routed the edges with a 1/4" round over bit. I used a 1" x 2" to fasten them to my sawhorses.










View of the bow support cradle.










It's a pretty good fit. I measured from the wall as a reference to be sure the cradles are true to each other (kind of like marriage) and not putting a twist in the boat…that would suck! I'll staple some plastic to the cradles so I don't epoxy the kayak to them.

*Next*
The next step is to remove the deck from the hull and tack the hull and deck assemblies with epoxy.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Tacking the Hull and Deck*

*Establishing the Shape*
The objective of this process is to establish the shape of the hull and the deck, including their fit with each other. This is done with thickened epoxy.










I decided to use some gel superglue to be sure the panel sections didn't creep out of position. I had some left over from my last build that was probably close to its shelf life.










Here are some superglue tacks in the bow










and in the stern.










View of the stern area with some epoxy applied to the joints.










Stern completed.










Bow completed.










Deck completed.










Inserting wires from deck to hull. NOTE: The hull isn't glued to the deck at this point. This is establishing the fit between them.










Done!

*Next*
After a short camping trip, I'll be gluing in the hatches.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Fitting and Gluing the Hatches*

*Moved Kayak Build to the Basement!*
After an enjoyable three-night camping trip, I'm back to working on the kayak. It's hot and humid here now and the forecast calls for temps in the 90's by the end of the week. I haven't installed my floors in the basement finishing project, so I moved my kayak build to the new guest bedroom. Nothing like building in air conditioned comfort. It's a straight shot up the steps, so the kayak fits…nice! I'll paint it with stinky, oil-based duck boat paint in the garage.

*Clever Design*
The design of the hatches is quite clever and the end result is waterproof and secure. I built the Wood Duck 10 about five years ago and the hatches are great.










This is the stern hatch. The top layer is a spacer that gets glued under the deck. The next layer is the deck sill that is glued under the spacer. The actual hatch cover is carefully cut from the deck. The cut is started by drilling a series of 1/16" inch holes that provide a place for the jig saw blade to enter. That's a cut you want to be careful with since the hatch cover is made from the already assembled deck. A mistake here would be very painful/expensive. However, the kit provides alignment holes in the deck and in the spacers.










The bow hatch area is smaller and requires the spacer and the sill to be beveled with a hand plane.










This is the stern hatch. The hatch spacer and hatch sill are glued in place with epoxy thickened with silica powder. You can never have too many clamps during a boat build!










I had enough clamps to glue the bow hatch at the same time.

*Next*
I need to wait until morning for this assembly to cure strong enough to continue by gluing in the hatch rims. I'll also glue the hatch stiffeners to the bottom side of the hatches. None of that will take too long, so tomorrow will be a good day to hang doors and fit HVAC drops in my basement refinishing project!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Installing the Hatch Rims*

*Hatch Rims*
I realized that the hatch sills and spacers had cured well during the day, so I glued in the bow and stern hatch rims late last night. That put me a day ahead of what I thought.










The rims stops any water that gets past the hatch gasket from getting into the dry compartments. It's thin and fragile, but once glued in it becomes stronger.

*Removing Wires*
This morning I removed all the copper stitch-and-glue wires. That took about an hour! I then separated the hull and deck.










This view shows the curvature of the deck and the hatch assemblies. I successfully avoided gluing in any of the temporary frames!

*Next*
Fiberglassing the inside of the hull.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Fiberglassing the Inside of the Hull*

*Fillets*
The panels seams now receive fillets that fill the joints and ease the transition between panels for application of fiberglass tape.










I'm messy, so I tape the fillet areas before laying in the thickened epoxy. This step really works.










Here's a fillet. It's made from epoxy thickened with wood flour.










The fillets are next covered with fiberglass tape. The tape is then coated with epoxy. This is what actually holds the boat together. The bulkhead fillets don't receive fiberglass tape…apparently the fillet is strong enough.










Once the tape is covered with epoxy, The cockpit area receives a layer of four-ounce fiberglass cloth.










Here's the stern bulkhead area after the fiberglass cloth was coated with epoxy.










The inside will receive a second coat of epoxy within about 12 hours of the first coat. I'll apply it in the morning.

*Next*
Fiberglass the underside of the deck.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Fiberglassing the Underside of the Deck*

*Cleaning Up the Inside of the Hull*










The epoxy from the first coat on the inside of the hull had cured about 12 hours. It wasn't at final hardness, so this was a good time to clean up the fiberglass frays that formed during application.










A carbide scraper and a little sanding did the trick. I like the scraper since it doesn't gum up when the epoxy is still not at final cure.

I applied the second coat of epoxy to the inside of the hull after cleaning it up a bit. I used a bristle brush to get it in the corners and then spread it out with a soft plastic bondo spreader.

*Fiberglassing the Deck*
The deck is easier to work since there aren't any bulkheads to work around.










I taped the deck seams like the hull. The thickened epoxy is squeezed into the joints using a one-quart freezer bag with the corner cut off. This is incredibly effective.










Bondo spreaders with various radii cut in them work well to form the fillets.










Tape is removed prior to applying fiberglass tape.










Fiberglass tape is applied and the entire deck has one coat of epoxy. I'll apply a second coat this evening.

*Copper Wire for Stitching*
Chesapeake Light Craft is stingy with the copper wire for stitching. I've already used the kit contents and the extra roll I purchased. I ordered more over the weekend, but it won't arrive until next week. No problem, I'll use that wire on the sailing amas. I found some 18-gauge bare wire at the hardware store that will work fine for tomorrow's step.

*Next*
Permanently fastening the the hull and deck to each other.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Stitching the Hull and Deck Together*

*Wiring *
With the deck and hull fully cured, it was time to wire them together permanently










A stick of wood laid across each end provides enough clearance to thread the stitches in place. I rolled each end of the wire so they wouldn't slip out as I settled the two halves together.










There are copper stitches about every four inches. You can pull the boat together with packing wrap instead, but I prefer the precision of copper wire stitches.










The hull and deck are tacked together with a bead of epoxy thickened with silica. The bead is run between the stitches only, so they can be removed before applying the interior fillets and fiberglass tape.










Continuing the bead of epoxy at the bow.

*Video of the Hull and Deck Joined*

Here's a link to a video of the hull and deck tacked with epoxy and stitched tight. The stitches function as clamps while the epoxy cures. I'm pleased with the way the boat came together. I need to wait until tomorrow for the epoxy to full cure before removing the stitches and filleting/fiberglassing the interior hull-to-deck joints.

*Next*
Filleting and fiberglassing the interior hull-to-deck joints.


----------



## higtron (Jan 26, 2011)

DustyMark said:


> *Stitching the Hull and Deck Together*
> 
> *Wiring *
> With the deck and hull fully cured, it was time to wire them together permanently
> ...


I just found this blog, it's very interesting. It seems like a faster way to get on the water then then building a strip kayak you're doing an excellent job I can't wait for the next episode!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Stitching the Hull and Deck Together*
> 
> *Wiring *
> With the deck and hull fully cured, it was time to wire them together permanently
> ...


Thanks! A stitch and glue kit is very fast indeed. However, there's nothing like the beauty of a strip boat…a labor of love. The build of this boat will be about half of my work hours on this project. Fitting it out for all my different uses will be just as many hours and that's where the ingenuity comes in…my favorite part of a project=customizing it! My first customization will be to make removable coamings and deck that will make the boat seaworthy in steep Lake Superior chop when paddled as a tandem.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Filleting and Fiberglassing the Hull-to-Deck Seams*

*I Hate This Step!*
I had planned to wait until morning, but I noticed the epoxy was cured late in the evening and decided to go ahead with it…bad call. I didn't get done until midnight. This is the worst step in the whole build for me, since these seams are the least accessible. The front hatch is pretty small and I have a size 7 3/4" melon…not a good combination. I gave up trying to work the final passes of the fillets with a mirror and just put on an old hat and my reading glasses and squeezed my head into each hatch. I had to wash my hair and beard with white distilled vinegar to get out the uncured epoxy! That stuff works works well if you don't wait too long.

*Fillets*
The fillets are quite important on these seams since the panels meet at a sharp angle and the fiberglass tape would never make the corner without the easing of the radius provided by the epoxy fillets. The fillets also provide structural strength to the seams.










The following photos are taken with the boat upside down after I've completed the task. This is a view of the bow bulkhead, from the cockpit. It shows all seven panel seams meeting at the bulkhead. The hull-to-deck seams are the outermost.










Closeup of the seams at the stern bulkhead from inside the hatch










Closeup of the seams at the bow bulkhead from inside the hatch. NOTE: The bulkhead to deck seams receive no fiberglass tape, only the epoxy fillet. The top of the bow bulkhead had a 1/2" gap below the deck. Apparently this is how they cut the bulkhead to avoid any interference with the final shape. That results in a pretty thick fillet!

*Fiberglass Tape*
It's too difficult to wet the fiberglass tape in the boat.










The plans suggest pre-cutting, rolling the tape loosely, and then soaking it in epoxy in a disposable pan. This step is done after all the fillets are complete. I mixed 9 ounces of epoxy to fill the pan enough to soak the tape. This method worked well, except I was too slow with applying the tape in the bow and stern and the epoxy began to cook off on the the long strip for the cockpit. That would have been a waste of epoxy and fiberglass tape. I quickly unrolled them to dissipate the heat and they appeared to bond well. I added an extra coat of epoxy to the tape to be sure there were no adhesion problems.

*Results*
I'm happy with the way the hull-to-deck seams turned out. Yes, it was a struggle, but it worked out fine.

*Next*
Shape and sand the hull seams for fiberglass prep.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Filleting and Fiberglassing the Hull-to-Deck Seams*
> 
> *I Hate This Step!*
> I had planned to wait until morning, but I noticed the epoxy was cured late in the evening and decided to go ahead with it…bad call. I didn't get done until midnight. This is the worst step in the whole build for me, since these seams are the least accessible. The front hatch is pretty small and I have a size 7 3/4" melon…not a good combination. I gave up trying to work the final passes of the fillets with a mirror and just put on an old hat and my reading glasses and squeezed my head into each hatch. I had to wash my hair and beard with white distilled vinegar to get out the uncured epoxy! That stuff works works well if you don't wait too long.
> ...


Great job and interesting. I will never build a boat but enjoy watching your build.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Filleting and Fiberglassing the Hull-to-Deck Seams*
> 
> *I Hate This Step!*
> I had planned to wait until morning, but I noticed the epoxy was cured late in the evening and decided to go ahead with it…bad call. I didn't get done until midnight. This is the worst step in the whole build for me, since these seams are the least accessible. The front hatch is pretty small and I have a size 7 3/4" melon…not a good combination. I gave up trying to work the final passes of the fillets with a mirror and just put on an old hat and my reading glasses and squeezed my head into each hatch. I had to wash my hair and beard with white distilled vinegar to get out the uncured epoxy! That stuff works works well if you don't wait too long.
> ...


Yeah, it's not for everyone. It does show another way wood can be formed in a 3-D fashion. As my house became full of furniture, I've transitioned to these type of projects. Either way…wood is good!


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

DustyMark said:


> *Filleting and Fiberglassing the Hull-to-Deck Seams*
> 
> *I Hate This Step!*
> I had planned to wait until morning, but I noticed the epoxy was cured late in the evening and decided to go ahead with it…bad call. I didn't get done until midnight. This is the worst step in the whole build for me, since these seams are the least accessible. The front hatch is pretty small and I have a size 7 3/4" melon…not a good combination. I gave up trying to work the final passes of the fillets with a mirror and just put on an old hat and my reading glasses and squeezed my head into each hatch. I had to wash my hair and beard with white distilled vinegar to get out the uncured epoxy! That stuff works works well if you don't wait too long.
> ...


Just my opinion but that is terrible advice for application of the tape. It uses way more (expensive) glue than necessary and must make one unholy mess. 
Give this method a try. You shouldn't even get any on your gloves if you do it right.
https://www.lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/26404


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Filleting and Fiberglassing the Hull-to-Deck Seams*
> 
> *I Hate This Step!*
> I had planned to wait until morning, but I noticed the epoxy was cured late in the evening and decided to go ahead with it…bad call. I didn't get done until midnight. This is the worst step in the whole build for me, since these seams are the least accessible. The front hatch is pretty small and I have a size 7 3/4" melon…not a good combination. I gave up trying to work the final passes of the fillets with a mirror and just put on an old hat and my reading glasses and squeezed my head into each hatch. I had to wash my hair and beard with white distilled vinegar to get out the uncured epoxy! That stuff works works well if you don't wait too long.
> ...


Paul,
I agree. I was just blindly following the build instructions. I could have certainly laid the cloth on dry in the main compartment. It actually didn't drip too bad since I squeezed out the excess before removing it from the pan. I liked your method. I'm still making mistakes and learning on my 10th build…


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Rounding the Edges of Hull and Deck*

*Prep for Fiberglass*
Rounding the edges is a preparation step before applying fiberglass. Some people leave their edges pretty sharp. I like to round mine over a fair bit for comfort and impact protection. This boat will see harsh use being dragged over beaver dams, ramming my way through flooded timber, enduring the dogs claws as he gets back in after a retrieve, and riding in my truck box down dirt roads. Sometimes the epoxy under the joint will appear as I round the edge over, but I don't consider that a problem since there are epoxy fillets and fiberglass tape underneath and a coat of fiberglass over the top.










A sharp block plane removes the wood quickly, yet in a controlled manner.










Here's the bow after planing.










A view of the stern.










With the edges rounded over, I switch to my Mirka random orbital sander with an 80-grit Abranet disc. I sand the whole kayak with this. Since I'm not varnishing, I stopped at 80 grit.

*Videos of the Final Results*
Here's a link to a video showing the deck ready for fiberglassing after the edges were rounded. Here's a link to a video showing the hull ready to go.










It's definitely looking more like a kayak.










I'm looking forward to getting it on the water.

*Next*
Fiberglass the hull.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Just Had to Sit in the Kayak!*

*It Fits!*
This is the stage of the build where you get a very good idea of the boat's fit and comfort. I placed some shoes under the hull to support it and Mary and I sat in it to discover paddle and feet clearances.










A section of roof rake makes a good paddle simulation in tight quarters! I'm thinking that I'll paddle the kayak solo at a position 48" back from the inside edge of the front coaming. That will leave room for my anchor rig/rod holder board for fishing behind me and my fish cooler. This is a position that should be good for fore and aft trim.










Tandem paddling will require me to scoot forward about 10" so Mary doesn't knock me in the shoulders on each paddle stroke! My rudder pedals have 13" of adjustment so that will work out well.

*Plan for the Cockpit*
I plan to make two removable spray decks that will seal off the large cockpit from heavy seas. These will follow the approach used by folding sea kayak manufacturers. I'll make two coaming rings for each spray deck that fit the expedition neoprene spray skirts we use with our triple kayak. Each of the coaming rings will be fastened to a cross bar at the fore and aft position that is secured to the large coaming of the kayak. This will provide a safe means of independent entry and egress from the kayak. I'll sew a custom vinyl deck that will be sandwiched between the coaming ring assemblies and sealed with vinyl cement.

Since we have two different positions for me, depending on what we're doing, I'll make two decks. Deck One will be for tandem paddling with my seat set back at 38". Deck Two will be for solo paddling, sailing (tandem or solo), and me taking the dog out for a paddle with my seat set back at 48". Mary won't be able to paddle in this set-up, but we need to have our weight back further for proper trim with the force of the sail in the bow.










Here's the dog's cockpit attachment. I'll use this as a form to bend the coaming rings to the right shape so that I can use this assembly in either our triple kayak or the new Wood Duck!

*Next*
Fiberglass the hull.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Fiberglassing the Hull*

*Fitting the Cloth*
After a nice five-day camping trip, it's back to building the kayak! I listed my kayak on Craigslist and have a "nibble", so I need to get this one done…










With the hull sanded and vacuumed, the four-ounce fiberglass cloth is draped over the boat. The extra is trimmed off the bottom to within about two inches.










Darts are cut at the transom to make a way for the cloth to wrap around this complex shape.










Fold over to cut the other dart.










Transom darts complete and ready for epoxy. Darts are cut at the bow as well.

*Applying Epoxy*
With everything cut, epoxy is applied to soak the fiberglass cloth. The idea on the first coat is to wet the cloth. Subsequent coats will fill the weave of the cloth. A boat finished with varnish or painted with a finer paint will likely require a total of three coats of epoxy to fill the weave. I'm hoping that my kayak will be filled "good enough" for strength and waterproofing after two coats.










I pour the epoxy on the flat parts and spread it with a Bondo spreader. It's easier to apply the epoxy with a brush on the vertical areas and then spread it.










Applying epoxy to the first side of the bow dart.










Working the second side over.










Looking better.










Almost there. The brush comes in handy at dabbing the dart down.










Final touch-ups are done with the spreader.










Bow dart is done.

*Next*
The epoxy will be green cured this evening and I'll trim the excess fiberglass from the bow-to-deck seams with a razor before applying the second coat of epoxy.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Applying Second Coat of Epoxy to Hull*

*Prep Work*










The epoxy is only green cured and it's pretty easy to trim off the excess fiberglass with a razor.










Oops! I trimmed a little bit into the wood here. No problem, it will get epoxy over it.










Here's a close-up of the weave after the first coat.

*Applying Second Coat*
The fiberglass takes way less epoxy on the second coat. I use the same techniques as on the first coat. Squeegeeing the epoxy well will cut down on your sanding later.










Here's the weave after the second coat of epoxy. Four-ounce cloth doesn't have a real aggressive weave. I'm satisfied with this level of fill for my "utility build" and won't apply a third coat of epoxy to further fill the weave.

*Hatch Cover Stiffeners*
The hatch covers are pretty thin and need a piece of plywood to stiffen them up.










Here's a hatch and its stiffener. NOTE: The thicker plywood underneath is not part of the hatch…it's simply a clamping base to ensure the hatch cover remains straight during clamping. I failed to do this when building a skeg box on my wife's kayak and it has a permanent/troublesome twist in it…forever!










This hatch cover is epoxied and ready for clamping.










Both hatch cover stiffeners epoxied and clamped. They'll be cured enough to remove the clamps in the morning and fiberglass the hatch covers at the same time I fiberglass the deck.

*Next*
Fiberglass the deck.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Fiberglassing the Deck*

*Same Process as Hull*
After the hull epoxy was green cured, I scraped and rasped the drips and ensured the hull to deck joint was clean to accept a layer of fiberglass cloth across it. Fiberglassing the deck follows much of the same process as the hull.










I taped the hatch ledges to avoid extra sanding, rasping or scraping.










The fiberglass cloth is draped over the deck and trimmed so that it overlaps the hull a bit.










Cloth is trimmed for the hatch covers.










View of the bow after fiberglassing.










Close-up of the hull-to-deck seam. You can see some fiberglass strands that I'll have to deal with later. A scraper will remove them pretty cleanly.










I'll let the deck cure for about eight hours before applying the second coat of epoxy to fill the weave.

*Next*
Cleaning up the hatch openings and applying a second coat of epoxy to the deck.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Fiberglassing the Deck*
> 
> *Same Process as Hull*
> After the hull epoxy was green cured, I scraped and rasped the drips and ensured the hull to deck joint was clean to accept a layer of fiberglass cloth across it. Fiberglassing the deck follows much of the same process as the hull.
> ...


I enjoy the updates and see how you build this boat.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Fiberglassing the Deck*
> 
> *Same Process as Hull*
> After the hull epoxy was green cured, I scraped and rasped the drips and ensured the hull to deck joint was clean to accept a layer of fiberglass cloth across it. Fiberglassing the deck follows much of the same process as the hull.
> ...


Thanks! Building one of these kits is quite satisfying…glad you're enjoying following the process.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Cleaning Up Hatch Openings and Applying Second Coat of Epoxy to Deck*

*Cleaning Up Hatch Openings*
The hatch openings have four layers including the deck, hatch spacer, drip ring, and hatch sill. There was glue sueeze-out that I couldn't reach to clean up when it was wet and also the layers didn't line up perfectly. All this had to be cleaned up by a combination of scraping and sanding…a tedious process.










Stern hatch before epoxy.










Stern hatch after epoxy.










Bow hatch before epoxy.










Bow hatch after epoxy. These openings will receive a second coat of epoxy when I install the coaming ring.

*Applying Second Coat of Epoxy to Deck*










With the epoxy green cured (about eight hours), I trimmed the fiberglass cloth from the hatch openings and the cockpit with a razor. I also scraped the fiberglass cloth frays before they got to final cure.










Here's the boat after two coats of epoxy applied to the deck and the hull. I'm happy with how it's turning out. I sold my fishing kayak today, so I'm kicking the project into high gear to finish this replacement. We also have guests arriving in eight days, so I need to get the kayak done and finish the guest bedroom…nothing like a deadline!

*Next*
Attaching the coaming ring.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Attaching the Coaming Ring*

*Lots of Clamps*
The cockpit is 84 1/2" long and 20 1/2" wide…that took a lot of clamps to attach the coaming ring! The coaming ring is made up of two spacers and the actual coaming ring. This stack is glued with epoxy thickened with silica. The plan calls for mixing it to a mustard consistency. I made my batch a bit thicker to fill gaps better and it worked well. The danger with going much thicker is that you could lose adhesion and it could require more clamping pressure.










View of the first coaming spacer at the bow with epoxy applied for the next layer. Notice that I failed to remove the CNC nibs. That's no issue on cockpit side since there is easy access with a file, but the nibs on the other side are going to require some chisel work…oops!










View of first coaming spacer at stern.










View of second coaming spacer.










I used all of my mixed collection of 46 small clamps, that I've acquired over nine previous boat builds, to complete this task. The deck is a three-dimensional shape, so the coaming layers must be coaxed into position and lined up as evenly as possible as the clamps are applied. My wife was out kayaking and I ended up doing this solo. My haste made this more of a challenge, but it's done.










I used my finger to squeegee glue squeeze-out into the inevitable gaps formed between the layers, especially at the bow with its compound curves. Even on a varnish-quality build, this is hidden by the shadow of the coaming at normal viewing angles. The plan calls for an epoxy fillet under the coaming to increase its strength. Much of this fillet is formed by the squeeze-out from the assembly. I may add more after the clamps are removed and I can flip the boat upside down to form it in a more controlled manner.

*Next*
Clean up the layers of the coaming assembly, form a radius on the inside edge, and fiberglass the coaming.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Fiberglassing the Coaming Ring*

*Filing*
There was quite a bit of filing to get all the layers even on the coaming ring. I used a Nicholson #49 rasp that was the perfect tool for the task. I've got grinder wheels from chair making that would do a quicker job, but doing it by hand was a more controlled and sure thing.










I sweated out my clothes on this job!










Stern coaming after filing.










Bow after filing.

*Routing*
With the coaming layers evened up, it was time to route the top edge with a 3/8" round-over bit.










The routed edge came out nice and even. I then used an 80-grit disc on my random orbit sander to touch things up and round over the bottom edge. This is the area your legs rub against while paddling.

*Fiberglassing*










Fiberglass cloth cut on a bias of 45 degrees drapes over complex shapes quite well. I ordered extra cloth to be able to cut nice long strips for this and the extra coaming rings I'll produce for the spray deck.










The cloth frays less when cut on the bias. That's a bonus!










The inside angle is sharp, so I used two pieces at the bow.










Stern after fiberglass.










Bow after fiberglass. The coaming turned out nice.

*Next*
Apply second coat of epoxy to various parts and sand the kayak.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

DustyMark said:


> *Fiberglassing the Coaming Ring*
> 
> *Filing*
> There was quite a bit of filing to get all the layers even on the coaming ring. I used a Nicholson #49 rasp that was the perfect tool for the task. I've got grinder wheels from chair making that would do a quicker job, but doing it by hand was a more controlled and sure thing.
> ...


Beautiful project and love the blog!!!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Fiberglassing the Coaming Ring*
> 
> *Filing*
> There was quite a bit of filing to get all the layers even on the coaming ring. I used a Nicholson #49 rasp that was the perfect tool for the task. I've got grinder wheels from chair making that would do a quicker job, but doing it by hand was a more controlled and sure thing.
> ...


Thanks again. This one might be tough to paint flat green!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Sanding the Boat*

*Running Out of Epoxy*
I'm at the very end of my epoxy and will need to supplement with a different brand available locally. That twist nudged me to sand the boat and possibly use the remaining epoxy for touch-up after sanding. The kit contents completed the build. It's the extras like the Dynel rub strip and hip braces that make an extra purchase necessary.










This photo shows the irregularities in the epoxy finish even after a good squeegee with a spreader. The 80-grit disc knocks it down quite well. I'm thankful for the good dust collection of this tool since I'm sanding the kayak in the future guest room!










Hull-to-deck seam scuffed up to show what needs to be feathered.










Progress made at feathering the joint. The goal on sanding is to remove excess epoxy, but not cut into the fiberglass weave. When feathering a joint, you obviously need to cut into the weave to blend it in. Four ounce fiberglass cloth is a challenge to sand as it doesn't hold much epoxy and it's easy to sand through. Edges are especially challenging and the build plans recommend hand sanding the edges. I've got a good feel for it and just dial back my RPM and used a more worn disc when working the edges. I only sanded through in one spot on this boat…










Half the hull sanded.










Photo shows transition from completely feathered to almost feathered.










Hull sanding complete. This photo shows the one spot I sanded through the fiberglass. I'm adding a strip of Dynel to the keel, so I won't need to fix it separately. Dynel is a very abrasion resistant cloth when soaked with epoxy. This is often applied to the bottom of canoes to make them more durable. I applied a strip to my skin-on-frame rowing shell and it's held up to some serious abuse.

*Punch List*
There are lots of little things to complete at the end of a boat build. Today's punch list included, 1) Applied second coat of epoxy to hatch openings, under deck lids, and on coaming ring. 2) Applied fillet under the coaming ring. 3) Sanded the kayak.










The coaming ring seems awful thin, so I followed the kit instructions and beefed it up with a fillet underneath. I used silica as a filler since it makes a smoother fillet, if done well. Silica is harder to sand than wood flour, but I made a special spreader and it turned out real clean. I shouldn't need to sand the fillet much, if any.

*Next*
I'll depart from the plan and fit hip braces to transition this boat from a "recreational" to more of a "performance" kayak. The hull is a great design. It's the wide-open, loose cockpit that degrades it to recreational status. My modifications should make the boat straddle both categories…


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Apply Keel Rub Strip*

*Change of Plans*
Well, the kayak build has moved back out to the garage. I'd planned to install hip braces today, but I needed to make progress on the guest bedroom, so I applied the keel rub strip instead.










I found West System epoxy at a local marine supply today! I used this on my first two boat builds from plans back in the 90's and it's good epoxy. Due to COVID-19 supply chain issues, my kit didn't come with dispensing pumps. I was able to purchase pumps for the new epoxy. That makes life easier for mixing up smaller batches since you just do one pump of each.

*Dynel Cloth*
Dynel feels like heavy t-shirt material and soaks up a lot of epoxy.










The objective is to soak a lot of epoxy into the cloth to build up a tough protective strip on the keel. I cut the strips ahead of time and soaked the first layer in a flat container.










After applying the first layer, I quickly laid the second strip on to soak up the extra epoxy before it dripped off. This worked well.










I cut the cloth on the bias for the tight turns of the bow area. It laid down nice without any wrinkles.










I thought about trimming a neat line in the cloth with a razor at the green cure stage, but decided to remove the tape and just feather it a bit with a sander after it cures since I'm painting the entire hull green anyways.










I applied more epoxy after this photo to soak the cloth even more. The cloth literally swells as you add more epoxy; it's a lot different than working with fiberglass. I had to come back later to squeegee some drips, but I now have a nice, thick rub strip consisting of two layers of Dynel heavily soaked in epoxy.










The kayak is protected well from keel scrapes.

*Next*
Fitting out the cockpit.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

DustyMark said:


> *Apply Keel Rub Strip*
> 
> *Change of Plans*
> Well, the kayak build has moved back out to the garage. I'd planned to install hip braces today, but I needed to make progress on the guest bedroom, so I applied the keel rub strip instead.
> ...


*Heavy duty I think*,
Having never worked in this type project before but I have had a couple a boats and lived on the rivers of Alabama for 8 years so know *you got to protect those parts that will be hitting the shore quite often.*.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Apply Keel Rub Strip*
> 
> *Change of Plans*
> Well, the kayak build has moved back out to the garage. I'd planned to install hip braces today, but I needed to make progress on the guest bedroom, so I applied the keel rub strip instead.
> ...


We found some ducks in flooded timber last season and had to "make a run for it" to cross a lot of the dead falls. With a flat bottom Royalex canoe that was no big deal. This will make that a lot less cringe-worthy on a plywood boat with a keel!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Spray Deck Frames*

*Designing at the Bench*
I've been mulling over the design of the spray decks in my head for some time and today I began to construct them with 1/4" Baltic birch plywood. The beauty of this wood is that the glues are outdoor capable. I don't use it below the waterline, but I've used it for years successfully above the waterline. I glue parts together with polyurethane construction adhesive and finish them with marine varnish. This is enough protection for these type of accessories that get wet, but then are dried.










I had a fiberglass cockpit cover from my triple kayak that I traced for the outside shape of the new coaming rings. I then came in 1 1/2" to form the inside edge of the coamings. This photo is of the tracing of that inside edge after I cut it. Here I'm going back out 3/4" and this became my master template for the coaming ring spacers.










This is a photo of the coaming ring that will fit our current spray skirts well.










View of the tandem spray deck frames. Each frame will be clamped/bolted into position in four spots. I'll sew a large cockpit cover out of vinyl that will attach around the perimeter of the cockpit with 1/4" bungee. The edge around the coaming and the deck frame will receive vinyl cement and the coaming ring will sandwich the vinyl cover between the deck frame. This should keep water from seeping between the layers. I chose to make these spray deck frames from separate pieces of plywood so that the entire spray deck could be folded and stored in the back of my truck.










Close-up of bow spray deck frame.










Close-up of stern spray deck frame.

*Next*
Cut the rest of the coaming spacers and laminate them to the coaming ring.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Solo Spray Deck and Coaming*

*Decisions Made*
Today I made decisions on how to configure my solo spray deck. I set the seat back 13" from the tandem paddling position. I chose this distance since my rudder pedals have 14" of adjustment. I'll have the pedals all the way forward for tandem paddling and and all the way back for solo paddling. I also decided to make a new dog cockpit attachment rather than retrofit the one from my triple kayak. This allowed me to make the rear spray deck opening the rectangular shape of the dog cockpit. This would also make for great cargo access if we were to use the boat for overnight camping in the Apostle Islands.










The overall length of this spray deck will fit in my truck box, so I made it from one piece of plywood.










Coaming spacers and rings laminated, but not glued to the spray deck. I used polyurethane construction adhesive to glue up the coamings. The rings are glued while clamped to the deck so that they take the gradual curve of the deck.










The rear spacer is made from a single, 3/4" piece of Baltic birch plywood. I had some left over from my teardrop camper build…nice stuff!










Tandem spray deck coamings and spacers cut and ready for lamination tomorrow.

*Next*
Tomorrow I'll fit cross beams to the spray decks, start devising clamps to hold the spray deck to the main coaming securely, and laminate the coaming rings for the tandem spray deck.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Tandem Spray Deck and Clamps*

*Second Spray Deck…Same as the First*
The process for building the tandem spray deck is the same as the solo.










I dug into my bigger clamps in order to clamp the stern coaming ring at the same time as the bow.










I drilled a hole in the stack when dry fitting and used silicon bronze nails (leftover from a previous build) to line up the layers during glue-up. This helps to minimize drama during the glue-up.










I cut the nail flush after removing the clamps.

*Clamps*










This is a close-up of a clamp that holds the spray decks in place. A 3/4" piece of plywood is glued and screwed in place to line the spray deck up with the coaming of the kayak.










A 1/4" threaded insert is screwed into that plywood and provides the means for the 1/4" thick by 1" wide aluminum clamp to grab hold under the deck.










I used a 5/16" nut as a spacer; the 1/4" bolt turns freely through it. This provides a pivot point for the clamp to adjust to the angle of the deck. I've cut aluminum spacers, stacked washers, or even glued in extra wood on previous clamps, but this was a lot less work and likely more effective.



















Close-ups of some of the clamps on the solo spray deck.










Photo of the cross beams, alignment blocks, and clamps used on the solo spray deck.

*Trying it on for Fit*

It was time to try the boat on for size and also try the fit of my spray skirt on the new coaming ring.










It's a good fit!










Copper has good small boat manners and he hopped right into his place.










I'll build a removable 8" extension to contain him better and also keep out Lake Superior! I'll top that off with a custom dog spray skirt. When Copper's not on board, I'll cover that opening with a bungeed cover.










Mary gave the boat a try also.

*Feathering the Rub Strip*










I didn't like the way the edge of the rub strip turned out. I also sanded through the fiberglass in a couple of spots adjacent to it. Since I had to fix those bare spots, I opted to feather the joint with epoxy thickened with silica. It looks a lot better now.

*Next*
Fiberglass the coaming rings, sand and varnish the spray decks.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Amine Blush Setback*

*Small Disaster*
Amine blush is a residue that forms over epoxy as it cures. It must be scrubbed off with hot, soapy water before proceeding with another coat of epoxy or paint. Future coats won't cure properly over amine blush. Non-blushing epoxy hardener is available at extra cost.

Feathering the rub strip turned out to be a bad idea. I selected regular hardener when I bought my replacement epoxy and should have purchased West System's special, non-blushing hardener. All of Chesapeake Light Craft's kits ship with non-blushing hardener. I thought I had done the rub strip with my last bit of non-blushing epoxy…not! All the epoxy I applied last night to feather in the rub strip was only partially cured overnight. I knew my mistake right away. I had to scrape and sand every bit of epoxy off that I had applied last night. That took over two hours working at a steady pace.

I'll toss the blushing hardener and purchase non-blushing hardener before I use anymore epoxy. It's simply not worth the hassle dealing with amine blush. These kind of mistakes are unfortunate, but not devastating.

*Next*
Install the foot pedals.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Rudder Pedals and Foot Braces*

*Time to Drill Holes Through the Hull*
Installing rudder pedals and foot braces meant drilling a total of eight 1/4" holes through the hull. You want to get them right the first time. I positioned seats where they go and we both sat in our positions and experimented with the best pedal placement.










We installed the Keepers foot braces for the stern cockpit first. I drilled a 1/8" hole initially and screwed the braces in temporarily to test the fit.










Once confirmed, I drilled the 1/4" holes.










I bedded all the holes in 3M 5200 Fast Cure Marine Adhesive caulk. This is real good for through-hull fittings.










Installing the starboard bow rudder pedal assembly. This is for the Smart Track Rudder System, which is a toe control rudder.

*Epoxy Disaster Update*
I applied unthickened epoxy along the entire length of the keel rub strip to seal up a few spots where I went through the fiberglass.










View of keel approaching the transom.

*Next*
Fit hip braces.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Primer*

*Sanding Coamings and Spray Decks*
I worked a lot on sanding the coaming rings and spray deck frames today. After a light sanding with 220-grit sandpaper, they'll be ready for varnish. There are seven sub-assemblies between the two spray decks and prepping them is a lot of attention-to-detail work. I was tired of sanding and decided to finish up the work day priming the kayak. NOTE: My Fein Turbo 2 vacuum motor burnt up today…it served me well for many years. I think the bearings failed.

*Primer*
I used Parker Coatings duck boat primer. I find it easy to apply and incredibly durable.










I painted the hull first.



















Velour rollers are an amazing match to this paint. The paint rolls on well with great coverage and no runs.










After the hull primer had cured about 10 hours, the paint along the deck-to-sheer edge is feathered with 220-grit sandpaper before painting the deck.










Entire kayak primed.










Close-up of deck at the bow.










Close-up from cockpit looking at bow. I'll paint the inside after I'm done making further modifications and upgrades. It was past time to get the rest of the boat painted…

*Next*
Paint the kayak and varnish the spray decks.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Primer*
> 
> *Sanding Coamings and Spray Decks*
> I worked a lot on sanding the coaming rings and spray deck frames today. After a light sanding with 220-grit sandpaper, they'll be ready for varnish. There are seven sub-assemblies between the two spray decks and prepping them is a lot of attention-to-detail work. I was tired of sanding and decided to finish up the work day priming the kayak. NOTE: My Fein Turbo 2 vacuum motor burnt up today…it served me well for many years. I think the bearings failed.
> ...


Looking really good!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Primer*
> 
> *Sanding Coamings and Spray Decks*
> I worked a lot on sanding the coaming rings and spray deck frames today. After a light sanding with 220-grit sandpaper, they'll be ready for varnish. There are seven sub-assemblies between the two spray decks and prepping them is a lot of attention-to-detail work. I was tired of sanding and decided to finish up the work day priming the kayak. NOTE: My Fein Turbo 2 vacuum motor burnt up today…it served me well for many years. I think the bearings failed.
> ...


Thanks, in the home stretch now.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Paint and Varnish*

*Lots of Roller and Brush Work*










This morning I painted the hull flat green with Parker Coatings duck boat paint. I noticed that I had rushed the primer cure a bit since I had some rub marks in the primer from the cradles. I let it go since that area is going to get scraped up quickly in use anyways.










I switched from the mohair roller I had used with the thicker primer and used a foam roller for the paint. I knew from past experience with the product that the paint is quite thin. The foam roller gave me one-coat coverage on the hull. The boat will receive maintenance coats after I've used and abused it, so I won't apply a second coat of paint now.










I sanded the seven spray deck components to 220 grit this morning and applied the first of three coats of marine varnish this afternoon. I used existing screw and bolt holes to raise one side off the table so I could varnish both sides at once. That works well if you're disciplined to not apply the varnish too thick. I use Tried and True satin marine varnish that I order from Raka in Florida. I've used this on my teardrop camper, my wife's kayak, and lot of boat accessories. It's a very forgiving, low VOC varnish that is pleasant to work with. You can go through three coats without sanding, if you don't wait too long between coats.

*Next*
Fit the rudder.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Fitting Out the Boat*

*Paint and Varnish*
I applied a second coat of varnish to the spray deck systems and painted the deck of the kayak. The only painting remaining will be spot painting of accessories after I install them. The spray deck systems are on track to be done after the third coat tomorrow.

*Fishing Kayak Outfitting*
I began the process of setting up the kayak for fishing. This won't take very long since I had my previous single kayak set up quite well and I'm mostly transferring parts.










This board is located behind my seat. I'll install three or four rod holder bases and an Anchor Wizard retrieval system. It fastens the same way as the spray decks. The cooler will be strapped to the floor and I'll need to fasten four footman loops to keep it secure.










The front shelf is extremely handy. I'll mount a rod holder base, fish finder, anchor cleat, ram mount ball for my transducer, and my hook removal kit. It's nice having everything within arm's reach.










The nice thing about this setup is that all of it removes quickly to transition the kayak to other uses. My seat is a little forward, but the cooler should offset my weight for fore and aft trim purposes.

*Smart Track Rudder*
I also began the installation process for the rudder. I've not installed this model before, so I'm taking my time to be sure I get it right the first time.










The transom of the kayak is not plumb. If I had mounted the rudder as is, it would have been angled towards the bow! I made a wedge out of white oak to get the rudder plumb. I haven't floated the boat, so this was an educated guess, but it's going to be better no matter what.










View from starboard side.










The rudder cables run along the sheer line, come through the stern bulkhead and then exit the deck at a shallow angle. I'll slather this hole up with 3M 5200 fast cure adhesive caulk once everything is routed and adjusted.










The rudder lift mechanism runs through only one fairlead to minimize direction changes and friction.










A jam cleat holds the rudder lift in the desired position.

*Brass Pad Eye*










The stern pad eye provides a secure means for lifting the kayak…once I tie in the handle.










I made a backing plate from 1/8" aluminum scrap. This ensures the screws won't tear out. You can also see the opposing wedge backing plate for the rudder bracket in this photo. The bow pad eye is screwed into an epoxy end pour. I'll do the pour later in the week.

*Next*
Finish installing the rudder and fitting hip braces.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Deck Hatch Covers*

*Hatch Covers*
I finished installing the hatch covers today.










I upgraded to the Derlin hatch retainers. They're durable and work quite well as opposed to a piece of plywood. NOTE: All of the above water line holes through the hull receive a dab of silicon to help prevent water damage in the exposed plywood.










The retainers are each held in place by a #10 stainless machine screw, washer, and nut.










This Frost King weather stripping is amazing. My hatches have always stayed mostly dry even with big waves washing over the deck. Sometimes a few drops make it through the hatch gaskets.










I added a lop of webbing at the aft end of each cover to help remove it. Sometimes the weather stripping gets a good suction grip and there's nothing to grab onto when there's only about an 1/8" space all the way around.

*Rudder Cable*
I glued the rudder cables in place with 3M 5200.










I globbed it on pretty thick where the cables came through the stern deck. It's ugly now, but primer and paint stick to it okay and I'll paint over it once it's cured.










I caulked the cables the same way where they came through the stern bulkhead. I'll tighten up the rudder cables when the caulk is cured. Once that's done, I can permanently set the rudder cables.

*Spray Deck*
I began sewing the fabric portion of the spray deck today.










This is 3 yards of Shelter Rite vinyl. It's the perfect material for a heavy duty spray deck like this. I marked it out to yield two spray decks.










Spring clamps held the material well as I traced around the coaming. I then added 1/2" all the way around for my seam allowance. I traced the first one to make the second. I'll also sew webbing straps and clips to hold safety gear and may also sew a spare paddle holder. It's best to do these mods before pressing any further. Once the accessories are sewn on I'lll sew a polyester sleeve around the perimeter to hold the bungee cord.

*Varnish Progress*
It was 75% relative humidity in the garage yesterday, so I didn't do a third coat of varnish on the spray deck components until tonight. I went over 24 hours between coats and had to scuff everything with 220-grit sandpaper. That's going to make for a better final finish. I tried a modest quality bristle brush instead of a quality foam brush tonight and got much better coverage on these odd-shaped pieces. I should have used a bristle brush from the first coat…still learning!

*Next*
Final rudder adjustment and sew the spray deck covers.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Installed Seats*

*Creature Comfort Seats*
In installed two Creature Comfort seats from Chesapeake Light Craft today.










View of the stern seat. The seats are held in position on the floor by a 2" x 9" patch of velcro. A rope runs through the seat back and is fastened at the port side via a webbing loop screwed to the underside of the coaming. The starboard side runs through a jam cleat for quick and secure seat back adjustments. These seats are pretty comfortable. I've used them since 1996.










View of the bow seat.

*Anchor Trolley*
I installed an anchor trolley on the port side. An anchor line runs through a hoop on the line and can be moved anywhere along the length of the kayak so that you can have the wind at your back or in your face. These are wonderful additions to any fishing kayak.










View of the pulley at the bow.










This cam secures the anchor trolley in your desired position. You can also see the hoop that the anchor line runs through aft of the cam.










View of the stern pulley.

*Final Rudder Adjustment*
I made the final rudder adjustments and fixed the wedges that hold the cables at the correct tension.










The rudder cable housing runs all the way to the rudder assembly. This works a lot like the brakes on your bike. I had an older version of this system on my last kayak and it worked quite well.

*Next*
Launch the kayak!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Launched the Kayak!*

*Launch Day!*
With the seats installed and the rudder operational, it was time to take the kayak for an initial paddle.










You can see that I'm slightly bow heavy, but most of the time I'll have some extra weight behind me that should trim me out. I was able to paddle without the rudder and had no directional control problems from this position. Check out this video of me paddling solo.










Stability was amazing. I was able to stand up and paddle with no difficulty. Check out this video showing me trying this the first time. I don't anticipate any problems taking the dog out for deep water retrieves while duck hunting.

*Assessment*
The boat finished out at 56 pounds with both seats, the rudder, and the anchor trolley. I'm pleased with its light weight. Stability was better than I could have ever hoped for. This boat is fast. We paddled in a river with a slow current, but our average moving speed was 3.7 mph round trip; that's with some drift time and Mary not paddling on the way back. Tandem performance is poor with me in the bow seat. I weigh 30 pounds more than Mary and steering was severely impaired with me in the bow. We switched positions and the kayak tracked well without a rudder. Fore and aft trim of a kayak is easy to judge by its steering/tracking performance. I ordered an extra set of rudder pedals and cables for the stern position. The rudder's design makes for an easy swap between cables that attach to the rudder head assembly. That's another $190 with tax and shipping but, "in for a penny, in for a dime."

*Next*
Outfit for fishing.


----------



## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

DustyMark said:


> *Launched the Kayak!*
> 
> *Launch Day!*
> With the seats installed and the rudder operational, it was time to take the kayak for an initial paddle.
> ...


Pretty cool Mark
I've been quietly following along and am impressed. Great work and blog.
Kuddo's to you sir!


----------



## metolius (May 26, 2016)

DustyMark said:


> *Launched the Kayak!*
> 
> *Launch Day!*
> With the seats installed and the rudder operational, it was time to take the kayak for an initial paddle.
> ...


!! wooo hooo !!

thank you for the stories


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Launched the Kayak!*
> 
> *Launch Day!*
> With the seats installed and the rudder operational, it was time to take the kayak for an initial paddle.
> ...


Thanks! It's nice to finally get a boat on the water and see how it performs. I'm really happy with this boat. The only surprise was how poorly it did with me in the bow during tandem paddling. However, it did great with me in the stern. We'll just have to ease Mary into learning to steer with the rudder when we encounter conditions that require it.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Launched the Kayak!*
> 
> *Launch Day!*
> With the seats installed and the rudder operational, it was time to take the kayak for an initial paddle.
> ...


Congratulations on a well done project!

I have followed along and appreciate the well done photos and description.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Rigged for Fishing*

*Video of the Fishing Setup*
Check out this video of how I set up the kayak for fishing.










View from bow.










View from stern.

*Anchor/Rod Holder Module*
I'm taking a modular approach to my customizations when possible.










The anchor reel, anchor holder, and four rod holder bases all fit on a 5" wide by 24" long board clamped behind my seat like the other accessories I've detailed.










It's a "busy" setup, but I think it will work out well. Check out this video for how the anchor system works.

*Fish Finder Module*










The front shelf includes my Humminbird Helix 7 fish finder, hook removal kit, rod holder base and transducer arm. It's a great work area when you're switching lures.










This view shows how the transducer arm is routed. I've got side scan, so I made sure it is just below the keel line.

*Transducer Clip*










This clip keeps the transducer arm from shifting while paddling. Water drag swings it out without this…even with the Ram Mount ball.

*Footman Loops*
Footman loops provide a way to tie down the fish cooler.










I needed something to screw the loops into. I made mounting bases of white oak and epoxied them in place. Notice my high-tech clamping method.










The mat helped keep the weights from shifting…it worked well.

*Anchor Pole*










An 8' long, 3/4" diameter fiberglass anchor pole is a great way to secure a small boat in shallow water. It's my first choice whenever possible. I connect it to the anchor trolley system. This is also a good photo of the YakAttack HD anchor trolley system.

*Paddle Holder*










YakAttack paddle holders are a little bit bulky, but are easy to use.










I'm hoping that my placement doesn't result in bloody knuckles when I paddle!

*Next*
Make the dog cockpit attachment.


----------



## dkgrim (Feb 22, 2013)

DustyMark said:


> *Rigged for Fishing*
> 
> *Video of the Fishing Setup*
> Check out this video of how I set up the kayak for fishing.
> ...


You will need a place for a Electronic Warfare Officer/Weapons Systems Officer (EWO/WSO).


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Rigged for Fishing*
> 
> *Video of the Fishing Setup*
> Check out this video of how I set up the kayak for fishing.
> ...


The EWO's duties would include:
1) Operate the anchor system.
2) Identify fish on the finder and recommend strategies to engage them.
3) Put fish in the cooler!


----------



## woodetal (Jan 9, 2019)

DustyMark said:


> *Rigged for Fishing*
> 
> *Video of the Fishing Setup*
> Check out this video of how I set up the kayak for fishing.
> ...


I have built CLC's stitch and glue kayaks-single and triple. I am trying to imagine turning around to select a rod or access the anchor system. The boat looks beamy so stability may not be an issue. Brian


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Rigged for Fishing*
> 
> *Video of the Fishing Setup*
> Check out this video of how I set up the kayak for fishing.
> ...


Brian, your concern about turning around to reach the anchor or grab a rod is a valid one. The boat is so stable that I can stand up and paddle it like a stand-up paddle board. However, I did have an "ah hah" moment earlier this morning and am in the process of moving that whole module just behind the hinge of the cooler. I experimented with that position and it's actually easier to reach things a little further to the stern than right behind your back. I just finished cutting the clamp boards off the bottom of the module with a flush cut saw. I'll have to raise it 1 1/4" to clear the cooler and I'll do that with some plywood spacers under the module…


----------



## woodetal (Jan 9, 2019)

DustyMark said:


> *Rigged for Fishing*
> 
> *Video of the Fishing Setup*
> Check out this video of how I set up the kayak for fishing.
> ...


Mark: I went with a blow-on hard automotive type paint for durability up to the top deck. Yep, I like the look of wood. Still the boats are used. I have re-fit bow and stern points with added glass/epoxy, more paint. The paint was a good choice, me-thinks. No re-varnishing and it is durable. Running into the shore and car top transport are the points of greatest wear. Nice project! Enjoy.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Rigged for Fishing*
> 
> *Video of the Fishing Setup*
> Check out this video of how I set up the kayak for fishing.
> ...


Another builder who takes a "practical" approach to finishing a small boat! Paddled over a sharp, submerged rock the other night and could feel it rub under our legs…cringeworthy for the paint.


----------



## woodetal (Jan 9, 2019)

DustyMark said:


> *Rigged for Fishing*
> 
> *Video of the Fishing Setup*
> Check out this video of how I set up the kayak for fishing.
> ...












Lake Tahoe. Emerald Bay. That is the triple. I have more recent pictures somewhere. Paint up the sides and a wood deck. I see that CLC now uses glass on the top and bottom of the decks. Makes much more sense that just the wood panel. Brian


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Rigged for Fishing*
> 
> *Video of the Fishing Setup*
> Check out this video of how I set up the kayak for fishing.
> ...


Those triples can take a huge payload…very nice and out on the big lake! I agree, four-once cloth makes a nicer layer than raw epoxy.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Reworked Anchor/Rod Holder Module*

*Moved it Back*
I had an "ah hah" moment this morning and decided to try moving the anchor/rod holder module back just past the cooler hinge. This made everything easier to reach since it wasn't immediately behind me, allowed me to move my seat back 5" for way better fore and aft trim and gave me free access to the cooler without having to weave through fishing rods.










This is me fishing tonight with the new setup. I rotate my torso and lean an arm on the cooler lid to reach the rods behind me with no stability problems. The green tub, stored in front of me, is my stripping basket that holds my fly line and prevents a tangled mess when I'm casting. Notice that I'm sitting pretty level in the water. The boat cruises easily at 3.5 mph and can do 4.0 mph with a modest effort.

I lost a big northern tonight because we were one rod holder short and I opted to wedge the net between the cooler and the side of the kayak. The fish was taking out line at will whenever it made a run and I have a pretty stout setup. I had the fish approaching the side of the boat and it took me a little too long to find the net handle. As I was searching, the fish made a run toward me and used the slack to get free from my single-hook Johnson's Silver Minnow. I didn't see the whole body, but it had a pretty big head…oh well!

*Reworking the Module Board*
I had to remove the old clamp boards that were already glued and screwed to the module board. The photos below showed how I made the modification without having to redo the whole module. I'll just need to do some spot varnishing on the bottom.










My Stanley flush cut saw did a good job of sawing off the old clamp.










Not perfectly flush, but pretty close.










Nothing like a sharp plane to clean things up a bit.










Real clean.










The shoulder plane allowed me to work close to the bolts without having to remove them.










Looking good.










After sanding.










The cooler top is slightly above the gunnel, so these spacers raised the module 1 1/4".










Close-up of the final result. I used it without varnish tonight and will begin coating it tomorrow.

*Next*
Try to integrate the hip braces with the spray decks…another "ah hah" moment I had today!


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

DustyMark said:


> *Reworked Anchor/Rod Holder Module*
> 
> *Moved it Back*
> I had an "ah hah" moment this morning and decided to try moving the anchor/rod holder module back just past the cooler hinge. This made everything easier to reach since it wasn't immediately behind me, allowed me to move my seat back 5" for way better fore and aft trim and gave me free access to the cooler without having to weave through fishing rods.
> ...


Looking great and nice your able to fine tune the set up.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Reworked Anchor/Rod Holder Module*
> 
> *Moved it Back*
> I had an "ah hah" moment this morning and decided to try moving the anchor/rod holder module back just past the cooler hinge. This made everything easier to reach since it wasn't immediately behind me, allowed me to move my seat back 5" for way better fore and aft trim and gave me free access to the cooler without having to weave through fishing rods.
> ...


Thanks, I think that's the part I like the best…making it mine!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Hip Braces*

*End Pour*
I did the epoxy end pour of the bow yesterday. The objective of this step is to provide a strong means of mounting the pad eye on the bow. My parents came over for dinner and my Dad helped me flip the kayak onto its nose and tie it to the ladder on the rear of my camper. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture.










This is 8 ounces of lightly thickened epoxy and it cooked off pretty good with so much epoxy in such a tight area. There was no good way for the heat to escape from the chemical reaction of the cure. Smoke was wafting out of the hatch.










Here's the pad eye installed. I'll tie the toggle to it once the paint cures.

*Touch-Up Paint*
I primed and painted all the parts that weren't green on the outside of the boat. I also applied a couple coats of varnish to the anchor/rod module that I reworked.

*Hip Braces*
I've pondered what to do about hip braces for quite a while and even considered not installing them. However the gunnel on such a long cockpit has quite a bit of flex and would surely benefit from some braces. I plan to paddle this boat in Lake Superior quite a bit and it's always better to have a good fit in the cockpit in the waves.










I opted for a permanent hip brace for the stern paddling position. I struggled more than I care to admit to get this set installed well, but I eventually prevailed. The black board is used to keep the braces in alignment during the gluing process.










The bottom cleat is made of white oak and has a 10 degree bevel at the bottom to ensure a good fit on the floor. Pieces are screwed and epoxied.










The solo paddling position hip braces had to be removable since they get in the way of your feet if paddling from the stern position. I used similar techniques as the stern position, but used threaded inserts instead of screws to attach the cleats. I added a second alignment board at the top and a 20 pound weight to get everything in position. I had to be careful not to accidentally glue the plywood brace to the cleats. I'll trim the top of the brace flush with the top cleat later.










Note that I used plenty of heavy plastic to keep parts separated. This cleat has a 7 degree bevel (how's that for picky?)

*Next*
Fit the front hip braces.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Front Hip Braces*

*Different Approach*
The front hip braces are different since they're anchored at the top to the spray deck. That way there's not a permanent cleat below the coaming in this busy area.










Here's the assembly (upside down) ready for gluing the lower cleat to the floor.










This is the hip brace cleat for the middle paddling position that I installed last night. I was happy when I was able to confirm that it doesn't get in the way of my foot when paddling from the aft position.










Similar approach for holding in position, except the top is already anchored well by the cleat attached to the underside of the spray deck.

*Tandem Spray Deck*
With the braces glued in, I'm shifting my focus to completing the spray decks. I'm glad I hadn't sewed them earlier since I ended up adding the hip brace cleat to the front position of the tandem spray deck.










This photo shows how the tandem spray deck will assemble. I'll start sewing the vinyl that binds it all together and seals it from waves tomorrow.

*Next*
Dog cockpit.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Dog Cockpit Attachment*

*What We Do for Our Pets!*
Copper has great small boat manners and he's fun to take kayaking, so I'm building him a place to sit in the new kayak. The solo spray deck has a rectangular coaming ring behind me and that's Copper's spot.










The dog cockpit attachment is a 1/4" plywood box with two sections of trim around the perimeter. 3" up from the bottom is a 3/4" by 3/4" piece of trim that rests the attachment on top of the coaming ring. The second section of the trim is 1" by 3/4" and forms a coaming for him to rest his chin and also creates a lip to attach a doggie spray skirt. I've experimented with him and know that I have to cut the trim all the way to the plywood at the corners. This prevents the spray skirt from hanging up and trapping/drowning the dog if we tip the boat.










I'm on a time crunch and went with 1/4" galvanized crown staples and polyurethane construction adhesive to assemble the box. The staples are really just clamps holding everything together while the glue cures. I filled the staple holes with epoxy putty.










3/4" by 3/4" pine cleats hold the adjacent panels together.










This photo shows both rows of trim. The whole assembly is locked in by two 1/4" bolts tightened into threaded inserts under the spray deck. This is secure and makes for a quick installation. A vinyl spray skirt will wrap around this box's perimeter and secure with a bungee to the rectangular coaming of the spray deck. This keeps water out of the boat.

I'll sand and prime this attachment in the morning and paint it green late in the evening. It should be cured enough the next day to fit the doggie spray skirt.

*Next*
Sew the spray decks.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Spray Decks*

*Dog Cockpit*
I had only two days to complete the dog cockpit attachment and sew the spray decks before we departed on our annual paddling-centered camping trip to Lake Superior. I got it all done with a couple of near-sleepless nights!










Here's the attachment all rounded and sanded. I sealed it with a coat of epoxy.

*Hip Braces*
There are three different paddling positions, so I built three sets of hip braces.










This photo shows the permanent hip braces at the stern position and the white oak cleats to hold the mid and forward hip braces to the floor and the mid hip brace cleats glued to the gunnel. The forward hip brace mounts at the top to a cleat on the underside of the spray deck.










I used contact cement to bond 3/4" minicell foam to the braces. It takes 3 or 4 coats to get adequate coverage on the foam since it keeps soaking in.

*Spray Decks*
The process of sewing the spray decks is pretty straight-forward canvas work.










Begin with the deck and allow at least 1/2" for seam allowance. I used Shelter Rite vinyl for the decks and 6 ounce polyester for the bungee sleeve. Here I'm fastening the bungee sleeve to the deck with basting tape before sewing it.










I used spur grommets to run the bungee cord in and out of the bungee sleeve. I reinforced the sleeve with vinyl before attaching the grommets.










Sewing the bungee sleeve with a half-felled seam.










At this stage, I've got a nice cockpit cover.










These next steps transform it into a spray deck. First I make some relief cuts.










Then I trimmed the vinyl to within 1/4" of the coaming rings with scissors.










Mark the coaming screw holes with an awl.










A punch makes a clean hole.










The slightly undersized punch allowed the screws to grab the vinyl and "tent" it for applying vinyl cement to both surfaces.










Applying vinyl cement under the vinyl and to the deck.










You can see how the screws suspend the vinyl and give me room to work.










Applying vinyl cement to the coaming ring.










Tandem spray deck done. The clamps were in place until the glue cured and then I was able to drive the coaming screws for that section.










Solo spray deck done.










Dog cockpit done!



















This was at the Meyer's Beach sea caves in the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore.

*Jam Cleat*










This is the jam cleat for adjusting the seat in the middle or forward positions. I screwed it to a piece of white oak and then epoxied the white oak assembly to the underside of the deck using Gorilla repair tape as a clamp. It worked well.

*Next*
Lake Superior performance assessment.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Performance Assessment*

*Retrieval Practice with Copper*
I removed the spray decks and had Copper do five retrieves from the boat. This was an important test to determine if he'd be hunting with me from this new kayak. I couldn't believe how stable the boat was for retrieval work! It took Copper a while to figure out how he'd exit the boat, but he eventually did and it went real smooth. He puts his feet on the side beyond the coaming and lunges out into the water. The boat rocks, but I never felt like we were even close to tipping. I kneeled and faced the stern to recover Copper. He puts his front paws onto the deck and I support the back of his head with my left hand, while I hold the opposite coaming with my right hand, to nudge him into the boat. We're a "go" for duck hunting!

*Wet Exit Results*
NOTE: Without my added spray deck, the Wood Duck Double is a *horrible* Lake Superior boat. I removed the spray deck and did a wet exit with the bare boat. The cockpit filled up with water as I'd suspect, but I was able to remove a lot of it when I flipped it upright. However, the sides are so low that I could not do a paddle-float self-recovery from the side. The boat would simply take on more water over the coaming…no matter what I did. I managed to enter the boat from the rear and it took forever to bail it out. If I were in conditions rough enough to dump me…it wouldn't be a good situation. To be fair, Chesapeake Light Craft does only advertise this kayak as a calm water vessel. My solution is to build and install a portable bilge pump system. I'll run a a Rule 1100 pump with a 9 amp hour 12-volt battery installed in a Pelican box. (Yeah, I've built one of these before for my last folding kayak!) I'm making it portable so that I can relocate it based on my configuration. Another step to displace water in the event of tipping is to lash down anything that floats. My duck decoys would provide a lot of help if they were tied down well. The same goes with any other waterproof bags on board. A person can also install flotation bags to fill unused space. The big cockpit is both a "blessing" and a "curse."

*Coastal Paddling*
We paddled six miles exploring the sea caves along Meyer's Beach. The dog cockpit attachment doesn't get in my way and Copper didn't cause any instability. I cruised easily at 3 mph with the dog in the stern. The boat tracks well with or without the rudder.

*Longer Crossings with Waves*
Our second paddle was a 10-mile round trip with a 3-mile crossing to Sand Island. We had a tailwind going out and a headwind coming back with seas of one to two feet both ways. Mary and I paddled using the tandem spray deck (we left Copper in the camper.) We were thankful for the rudder with the following seas. (Mary wasn't happy that she had to operate the rudder from the from the bow position, but she did well!) Waves lapped over the side of the boat onto the spray deck quite often with the following seas. Without a spray deck, that water would have come into the boat. The spray deck worked well at keeping the boat dry inside. I plan to add a one-foot section of velcro in the middle of the long, straight section for peace of mind. Bungee does well on curves, but can roll out of position in extreme conditions on the straight sections. We averaged 4 mph with the following seas and 2.7 mph with the increasing headwinds on the paddle home. This is quite amazing for a 14' kayak paddled as a tandem! The kayak does a nice combination of slicing/bobbing as it goes through/over steep chop of one to two feet. I'm super happy with the hull performance.

*Fog Crossing*
Our third paddle was an 8-mile round-trip to York Island. There was heavy fog with visibility of only 100' the entire paddle out. (We had GPS, compass, chart, and a horn readily available.) We paddled our kayaks solo and I took Copper in the back of my boat. The massive stability of the Wood Duck Double was comforting while paddling in such poor visibility. We were attempting to beat a thunderstorm on the way back and averaged 3.0 mph with a 10-knot headwind.

I'm *very happy* with the performance of the Wood Duck Double kayak.

*Next*
Duck blind planning.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Duck Blind Planning*

*What Fits?*
Duck season starts in MN on 9/26…I need to build my blind! Now that I know Copper will be riding in the back, the big question is "how many decoys can I realistically fit in the kayak?"










I'm able to squeeze a dozen full-size decoys between me and Copper and stay below the notional height of the blind. My blind bag and six decoys fit in front of my feet. I'll wedge my shotgun and case on the floor on one side of the kayak behind me.










I'll make the roof of the back half of the blind convertible so Copper can escape if we tip over while paddling. That will also allow him to sit full height as I paddle to and from the hunting site.










I own four goose floaters that I plan to transport between my legs during the paddle out and back. These are great confidence decoys that I won't leave behind. During diver duck hunts, I'll replace the goose floaters with two swan decoys…another great confidence decoy.

*Layout Position*
Hunting from a layout position is very comfortable and keeps you quite low for better concealment. A disadvantage is that you have limited visibility behind you. I experimented with how far back to place the layout support board and found a position that is just far enough forward to reach the rudder pedals when paddling and just far enough back to rest my feet on the pedals when in the layout position…nice.










This photo shows how Copper will have good visibility to mark the birds I shoot. It also shows how much you can stuff into this kayak. I plan to store some safety gear in the front and rear hatch compartments. I dressed in my gear and carefully weighed everything that I normally take hunting…I'm sitting at 320 pounds without the blind. I imagine a wet blind will weight about 40 pounds, so I've got perhaps 40 pounds to spare. Copper was getting a little "birdy" being around all the duck hunting gear!

*Frame Design*
I plan to use 3/4" aluminum tubing for the frame and assemble it with bimini fittings. This approach is light weight and durable. The layout board rest is the centerpiece of the system. An arched piece of tubing will run from one coaming edge to the other. Two struts will run aft from that and define the shape of the back of the blind. The flip blind doors will run forward from the rest. I'll primarily duplicate the method I used and described in detail in my Kara Hummer blog.

*Blind Body*
I ordered solution-dyed, coyote brown, 500-weight Cordura nylon for the blind body. I've used this successfully on three layout boat blinds, my Grumman Sportboat blind, and a canoe blind. The brushing straps are 9/16" wide military-grade nylon tacked down every four inches. Any buckles or webbing are 3/4" wide. I'll brush the blind out with various colors of Rafia grass to begin a good base and supplement it with natural vegetation during the season.

*Costs*
I've spent $190 on the blind body materials. That includes purchasing excess amounts to restock my canvas supply kit. I ordered the brushing strap material on e-Bay and the rest of the materials from Rocky Woods out of Colorado. I've also spent $170 on the aluminum tubing and the bimini fittings from Sailrite Kits out of Ohio. I already have enough Raffia grass that I previously bulk-ordered from Joseph Stern. If you had to purchase the raffia grass, that would push the total cost of this blind to over $400. That might seem like a lot of money, but this will be long-lasting, "tank" of a blind that is also easy to deploy.

*Next*
Build the blind frame.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Electric Bilge Pump and Stern Rudder Pedals*

*Electric Bilge Pump*
I struggled over where to locate the electric bilge pump. Normally I mount them behind the stern seat and attach the battery to the aft side of the stern bulkhead in the stern hatch compartment. My initial thought was to mount it behind the solo seat so that I could keep the fish cooler as far back as possible.










Here are the items I typically use for an electric bilge pump installation in a small boat. I was most of the way complete with building a pump system centered around a Pelican dry box and abandoned that for a standard installation. Mounting it behind the solo seat would have made it dangerous to wet exit the kayak from the rear tandem position with the spray deck installed.










I fabricated a bracket to hold the top of the pump from 1/8" thick aluminum scrap. I used footman loops and a 1" tie down strap to hold the body of the pump to the bulkhead. This is quite secure and allows me to remove the pump screen without tools to clean debris. This is a much simpler installation than my original plan.










The through-hull bilge fitting is stainless. I still need to paint it. I also need to install hose clamps.










I mounted the marine switch to some aluminum angle to the middle hip brace cleat. I used 14-gauge wire as recommended for the distance of the wiring run. This system should pump 18 gallons per minute as installed!










After drilling 10 holes through the Pelican box for a free-standing installation, I discovered it didn't fit in the stern hatch compartment! That change of plans cost me $35…I ended up building a simple plywood box to contain the 12-volt, 5 amp-hour, AGM battery and fuse holder. I routed the wires through the bulkhead directly into the battery box. I'll back the electric bilge pump system up with a collapsable bailing bucket.

*Stern Rudder Controls*
I purchased a second set of rudder controls so that I can operate the rudder from any of the three seating positions for super versatility.










This is the setting that is most comfortable for me in the stern position. (The middle seat would obviously be removed if I was paddling from the stern position.) I'm able to comfortably paddle with the middle hip braces installed. I lock my ankles around the brace. This is great since it gives me more of a connection to the boat for bracing. I also like it since the hip brace stiffens up that long run of coaming that is usually unsupported










I routed the stern rudder cables aft and outboard of the front rudder cables. I can switch rudder cables at the rudder head by removing a retaining ring from each clevis pin. I'll fasten the unused set of cables to the stern hatch cover webbing tab with a small carabiner.

I'll adjust the new cables tomorrow after the 3M 5200 adhesive caulk has cured.

*NOTE*: The kayak now weighs 65 pounds. That includes two sets of hip braces, a rudder system with pedals at stern and bow positions, one seat, and the electric bilge pump system. The tandem spray deck weighs another 12 pounds. That's only 77 pounds for a Lake Superior-capable small tandem kayak. I'm quite happy with these final weights!

*Next*
The rest of my blind building supplies arrived today, so it's time to build the blind frame.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Duck Blind Frame: Main Body*

*Decisions*
This is the point in the blind build that you make basic decisions like how low to lay in the blind and how much room to set aside for decoys and the dog. My objective remains to paddle the kayak with the blind doors closed around my torso. This will allow an amazingly quick set up.










This is a comfortable position for Copper and me. It's the second lowest position on the layout seat. The lowest position would conceal us better, but at the expense of comfort. Copper is a little crouched in this photo, but he has good visibility to mark the birds I might shoot.










The top of the seat fits under the frame when in the paddling position.

*Frame Design*
The heart of the blind is the support board that is clamped across the coaming ring.










The layout board rests on it, the rear blind frame is built around it, the aft portion of the flip blind doors are attached to it and my notional face shroud is also connected to it.










Close up of the support board. Notice the two 10 degree wedges I used to try to deconflict the flip blind doors and the face screen frame. I'm not sure it will work, but I'm giving it a try.










Bimini fittings are a wonderful thing! They make blind construction a whole lot easier. I'm happy with my bends…I've gotten a little better with a conduit bender during each blind build!

Cooper will ride to and from the hunt site in the area between the two crossbars. I'll sew a flip door that will cover the opening once we're set up. I'll also sew a removable barrier that will allow me to stack decoys tight in the are between Copper and me. It sounds complicated, but it will be simple and fast to use.










The flip blind doors will connect to the front deck with bimini fittings. I bought a piece of 1/2" EMT conduit to practice the bends on the doors since a replacement piece of aluminum tubing would cost $30 in shipping alone. I'll burn through as many pieces of $4.49 conduit as it takes to get it right.

*Next*
Fabricate the flip blind door frames.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Duck Blind Frame: Doors*

*Complicated Bends*
Bending the doors always kicks my butt. I used both ends of my conduit practice piece before I moved on to aluminum tubing.










I'm laying pretty low in these pictures. There's room for me to raise the seat up one incline notch.










Once you get all your gear on, the extra room gets used up. I hate being crowded under the doors. I don't need a framed face shield. A soft shroud attached at the roof of the blind will work just fine. I'll part it in the middle so there's never any chance of getting stuck under it while sitting up for a shot.










It's nice to have the rudder pedals to hook a foot under while shooting.










My arm pits just clear the door frames when I paddle. I suppose I could have lowered the blind an inch or so, but I'd rather add a cushion to raise my butt and have the room under the doors during the hunt.










Being able to paddle with the blind completely assembled is a game changer for me. I'm used to throwing out decoys and then setting up my blinds in other boats I've owned. This blind is fast, convenient, and comfortable.

I still need to replace the set screws with 3/16" rivets, add braided stainless tethers to the quick release clevis pins, and paint the frame. That's just busy work after wrestling with bending the door frames!

*Next*
Sew the blind.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Blind Body: Boat Prep*

*Backing Plates*
I fabricated backing plates from 1/8" aluminum for use under the bimini mounts. I didn't want those #10 washers pulling through the deck when I flip open a wet door!

I also cut all the bolt ends flush under the deck with my Fein oscillating sander and the bimetal blade attachment.

*Clevis Pin Tethers*










I used 1/16" braided stainless cable to tether the clevis pins to the blind frame. Each tether is riveted to the frame.

*Buckles*
The lower edge of the blind is attached with 3/4" plastic buckles along the outer edge of the kayak.










The blind is planned for three individual sections (bow, doors, stern.) The buckles are doubled where each section meets the adjacent section. The buckles help hold the blind down during windy conditions.

*Entering the Kayak*
I hadn't given much thought to how the bend of these doors might make it difficult to enter the kayak.










However, loosening the clevis pin at the shoulder area and suspending it from a carabiner gets the door out of the way nicely. I'll also have to unclip the aft most buckle.










It won't lay this flat with Rafia grass on it, but I'm confident that entry over the side will remain possible. This also might be my preferred paddling setup, if I'm not anticipating flushing ducks and then trying for a speedy setup before they return. I'll know more after it's all brushed out and I take it for a test paddle.

*Next*
Begin sewing the blind body.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Blind Body: Boat Prep*
> 
> *Backing Plates*
> I fabricated backing plates from 1/8" aluminum for use under the bimini mounts. I didn't want those #10 washers pulling through the deck when I flip open a wet door!
> ...


Interesting!!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Blind Body: Boat Prep*
> 
> *Backing Plates*
> I fabricated backing plates from 1/8" aluminum for use under the bimini mounts. I didn't want those #10 washers pulling through the deck when I flip open a wet door!
> ...


Thanks. I've got more hours invested customizing the kayak than I have in building it at this point!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Blind Body: Base*

*Designing on the Fly*
I pretty much "wing it" when I'm sewing blinds. My initial thought was to have the flip blind doors provide sole coverage for the middle third of the kayak. However, once I started sewing the stern panel, I realized I could extend it to the bow panel and provide a nice, fitted base for the blind that would provide better coverage with the Rafia grass.










View of blind base from port bow. I'll float the kayak with me and gear and Mary will pin an accurate waterline hem tomorrow.










View from starboard stern. I used a seam with edge binding that ensured the side panels would fold over close to the hull. The wind shouldn't be able to lift these panels up.










Close-up of bow.










Close-up of stern. I still need to fold it over and sew on a buckle below the rudder assembly.

*Lots of Fittings to Sew Around*
There are lots of fittings on the deck of the kayak. I sewed around all of these for the base of the blind. These help hold the base in place. I reinforced each area with a piece of heavy vinyl.










Overview photo.










View of stern.










View of stern and bow overlap.

*Brushing Straps*
I'll sew brushing straps after I've completed the cover for the stern frame and the blind doors. I'll know better at that point how the various parts overlap.

*Next*
Sew the blind doors.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Blind Body: Doors*

*Floated the Boat*
We floated the boat today with about the amount of weight it will have once the decoys are deployed. Mary sat in the boat as "self-propelled ballast" and I cut the side panel material of the blind at the waterline.










That's the waterline of the kayak loaded. Unfortunately, I ran 4' short of binding edge material to even finish these edges. I totally messed up that order!

*Sewing the Doors*
I draped a 2' by 5' piece of material over the door frame and pinned the material around the tubing to create sleeves. I then sewed those in place with enough tension to shape the doors, but loose enough that I could slip the door frame through the sleeves










View of port side with brushing straps sewn in. I might add another short row in the fat section. I sewed a 3" flap on the starboard door to overlap. This will keep the rain and snow out on miserable days. It also provides a way for brushing material to fill the gap between the doors. Three buckles, attached to the deck, keep the lower edge of the door tight and in position.










I like the way these doors turned out. Since they terminate at the deck edge, they don't lay in the water with the doors open. The overlap flap on the starboard door will touch, but not the majority of the door like my old layout boat blind.










Closeup of inside of port door. You can see my brushing strap stitching.










The lower overlap area flipped up in the wind. I'll sew velcro to prevent that from happening. If the Velcro doesn't hold, I'll add a couple of snaps.

I still need to sew brushing straps on the starboard door and the blind base.

*Next*
Sew the stern dog blind.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Blind Body: Dog Blind*

*Lots of Sewing*
The dog blind was pretty complicated to sew. It's 3-D shape, so it requires darts to shape it around the frame.










View from the inside. There are eight buckles to hold it to the kayak, four buckles to support the decoy barrier, seven velcro sleeves to hold it to the frame, one buckle to hold the back door shut, velcro to hold the shroud at the front, a zipper, and brushing straps










View from the outside.










The door has .4" foam inside to give it some rigidity.










The profile of the blind turned out well.










Copper riding in the position he'll travel to and from the hunt site.










Copper positioned in the door he'll use for retrieves.










Close-up of side. Notice the little window I sewed in to help reduce the blind spot to the rear quadrants.










Close-up of the retrieving door. Sewing the zipper in an arch shape made for a roomier entry and exit.










The doors blend nicely into the shape of the dog blind.










Copper has plenty of room when we're laying out during the hunt.

The sewing remaining includes a buckle at the bottom of the door, velcro to join the bow panel to the stern panel, the shroud, and a whole lot of brushing straps to the rest of the blind.

*Next*
Brushing out the blind.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Blind Body: Dog Blind*
> 
> *Lots of Sewing*
> The dog blind was pretty complicated to sew. It's 3-D shape, so it requires darts to shape it around the frame.
> ...


Amazing sewing…You must have a heavy duty machine!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Blind Body: Dog Blind*
> 
> *Lots of Sewing*
> The dog blind was pretty complicated to sew. It's 3-D shape, so it requires darts to shape it around the frame.
> ...


Thanks! I've got a Sailrite Ultrafeed which is a heavy duty sewing machine.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Blind Body: Dog Blind*
> 
> *Lots of Sewing*
> The dog blind was pretty complicated to sew. It's 3-D shape, so it requires darts to shape it around the frame.
> ...


Nice needle work there Mark
I bet there will be prey ducking for cover

Nice to see some emotional and humanistic aspects of woodwork!!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Blind Body: Dog Blind*
> 
> *Lots of Sewing*
> The dog blind was pretty complicated to sew. It's 3-D shape, so it requires darts to shape it around the frame.
> ...


Thanks Rob! Hopefully they'll be ducking for cover when it's too late. If I do a good job brushing the kayak, it will be quite effective at hiding Copper and me.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Brushing the Blind*

*Applying Raffia Grass*
I applied Raffia grass to the blind in order to give it some 3-D effect for a better hide. I bulk-ordered it from J.M. Stern Company a few years ago. I'm no expert, but here's how I applied it to the blind.










Here are the heaps of the four colors I used…green, light brown, dark gray, and light tan. That blend proved quite effective for me with a previous layout boat all season long without having to add natural vegetation.










I tend to go overboard when I'm brushing a boat, so I was deliberate in using four strands of green and two strands of the other three colors. This gives a pretty nice blend.










Fold a bundle of grass in two and insert the folded end through a brushing strap.










Run the tag end of the grass through the loop you inserted through the brushing strap and tighten it.










My brushing straps are sewed down every four inches. I tied a bundle to each of these sections and then zip tied these down to other brushing straps to form a thin, secure base layer of Raffia grass.










You could add natural vegetation at this point. I opted to add another bundle of Raffia grass to each brushing strap and not zip tie it to the lower straps. It seems to fill in the voids better if left attached only at the top. We'll see how messed up it gets going down the highway…I may need to add some more cable ties later.










View of brushing complete, as far as I'm concerned. I can always add natural vegetation if needed later. The skirt along the water line could possibly use some more grass, but I'm thinking it's good enough.










I like the coyote brown Cordura nylon as a base. It seems to blend in nice with the surroundings. I think this kayak blind will work quite well for a layout boat while waterfowl hunting in the local lakes and marshes!

*Next*
Sew a shroud to cover the opening between the doors and the dog blind and sew an insulated floor pad for Copper.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Cockpit Shroud*

*Amazing Results*
I've gone back and forth on how or whether to sew a facial shroud for the blind. The opening between the doors and the dog cockpit is slightly oversized so that I can paddle with the doors closed. I decided to give a shroud design idea that I had a try. I'm glad that I sewed a flap and a strip of velcro at the top front edge of the dog cockpit to hold the shroud. It was better to sew those in and not use them than to wish I had sewn them later.










I was surprised how well this simple shroud finishes off the blind's concealment. I used mil-spec mesh in coyote brown like the rest of the blind body. I added Cordura in the lower sections and sewed on brushing straps to blend it in with the doors. The shroud seam is offset to the left so that I'm not looking directly through the seam all the time. One buckle holds the sections together if I wish to take the chance of forgetting to loosen it before a shot…










Heavy vinyl helps the shroud to drop behind me when I sit up to shoot. The vinyl also helps keep the shroud in place on top of the doors. Unless a piece of Raffia grass wraps around something, this shroud will not inhibit me from sitting up to shoot at all.










Duck's view from the third step of a ladder. I'm super happy with this blind!










Here's the configuration I'll use to paddle to the hunt site. The back door is held open on the roof by the shroud and its buckle. I got lucky and the same buckle works for holding the shroud halves shut and securing the back door to the roof.










Overhead view shows the effectiveness of the brushing material and the shroud…I'm set for opener!

*Next*
Reports from the field after I've used it a while.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Video of the Kayak Layout Blind*

*Dry Run at a Lake*
I loaded the kayak today and did a dry run, before duck season, to practice loading the boat, paddling, throwing out decoys, sending Copper out on a retrieve and picking up decoys.

Check out this link to a video of the kayak all set up for duck hunting at the boat ramp.

Everything worked out about like I expected. Here are some observations:
1. Copper was hesitant to exit out the side door at first, but eventually figured it out. I may need to build a little step for him to get back in a little easier…we'll see. 
2. The kayak paddles well with the blind doors closed. I thought the door frames would rub my arm pits more…pleasant surprise.
3. The best place for my blind bag is immediately behind my seat in the dog blind. I can still fit a dozen decoys in the dog blind.
4. Six wood duck decoys fit well in front of my feet, under the deck.
5. Packing the four goose floaters in the cockpit with me is tricky, but possible. If I lay them in poorly, they could hinder my egress if I tipped over.
6. I need to determine how i'll pre-rig an anchor at the bow and stern to hold my position when I'm not pulled up on the bog. I may be able to use my anchor trolley for one of them.
7. I definitely need to keep a sponge in the boat when the dog is coming in and out. 
8. I had great visibility through the shroud mesh on an overcast day. I'll drape the shroud around my shoulders during low light conditions. I really like the shroud set up.
9. I need to route the rudder lifting line on top of the blind for the latter part of its path. It binds up when routed under the blind the entire way.

*Next*
A hunting report!


----------



## Idahoan (Sep 4, 2020)

DustyMark said:


> *Video of the Kayak Layout Blind*
> 
> *Dry Run at a Lake*
> I loaded the kayak today and did a dry run, before duck season, to practice loading the boat, paddling, throwing out decoys, sending Copper out on a retrieve and picking up decoys.
> ...


Great project! I'm going to enjoy going back and seeing this project unfold. As an avid waterfowler, I know how deadly effective this will be. Can't wait to see beautiful feathered creatures draped over the bow! Your season is coming quick!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Video of the Kayak Layout Blind*
> 
> *Dry Run at a Lake*
> I loaded the kayak today and did a dry run, before duck season, to practice loading the boat, paddling, throwing out decoys, sending Copper out on a retrieve and picking up decoys.
> ...


Paul,
Thanks! I think it will hide well. I'm coming up with a design for a single step for the dog made of vinyl and aluminum that should be compact and effective. A double step would probably tip us over!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Reinforcing Stern for Mounting a Torqeedo Ultralight 1103 AC Electric Motor*

*Expensive Modification*










The Wood Duck Double has worked out great for my planned uses (duck hunting, fishing, and paddling Lake Superior.) It's quite a comfortable fishing kayak. My wife and I had planned to buy a Lund 1650 Angler SS v-hull boat as we're getting more and more into fishing. However, this winter we decided to focus on kayak fishing instead since we can take two kayaks with us everywhere we go with our travel trailer and only need one vehicle.










We purchased a Torqeedo Ultralight 1103 AC electric motor for each of us. This motor puts out 3 hp and includes a 31 amp-hour lithium battery that should produce a range of 40 miles at 3 mph. We bought a Wilderness Systems ATAK 120 fishing kayak for Mary and I'm installing my Torqeedo on the Wood Duck.

Minnesota DNR is considering a change to allow electric trolling motors in their wildlife management areas. This motor would be perfect for getting out to my favorite, distant honey holes for duck hunting. We'll also modify our triple kayak so we can get a "boost" on our Lake Superior kayak expeditions in the Apostle Islands.

*Beef Up the Stern*

This kayak is not designed to run a motor. However, I'm not letting that stop me. The motor assembly weighs 20 pounds and I opted to reinforce the stern and go for it!










The wedges lay on the top of the deck and level it so that the motor mount is running closer to level. The 1/4" plywood is custom fit to beef up the underside of the deck at the stern.










I sanded the paint off in this area so the epoxy would get a good bite on the stern deck.










The motor mount is installed and serves as a clamp as the epoxy cures. I'll seal the new parts with epoxy once this assembly cures.

*Next*

Raising the seat.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Reinforcing Stern for Mounting a Torqeedo Ultralight 1103 AC Electric Motor*
> 
> *Expensive Modification*
> 
> ...


Interesting….


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Reinforcing Stern for Mounting a Torqeedo Ultralight 1103 AC Electric Motor*
> 
> *Expensive Modification*
> 
> ...


Yeah, this is stretching it a bit for this boat, but I think it should work well. My main concern is how much the stern squats at 3-5 mph. You can get into some "skinny" water with a boat like this!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Raising the Seat*

*Comfort*

I fished quite a bit out of the kayak last season and realized that raising the seat would make it considerably more comfortable. I know the boat is stable enough to handle raising the seat about 4" so I made a platform to raise my Creature Comfort seat.










This is a piece of 1/4" Baltic birch plywood connected to some western red cedar 2×4 supports. The cedar was scraps from my sauna build. I cut the cedar to conform to the angle of the floor to avoid pressure points. Everything is sealed with two coats of epoxy, primed, and painted.










I made new hip braces by laminating two layers of 1/4" Baltic birch plywood. The original 1/4" braces seemed a little flimsy.










Brace installed with 1/4" flathead bolts. These braces greatly improve the rigidity of the cockpit opening. The rudder assembly in this photo is for use from the rear seat when used as a tandem. I'm able to leave the hip brace in place when using this rudder position.










Threaded inserts are driven into the cedar supports of the seat platform. A bolt is fastened from the outside of the brace into the seat base support and holds it in place solidly. The platform is then easy to remove for paddling Lake Superior.

NOTE: The four holes in the top of the seat base are spaced to hold a Wise boat seat. In my dry run experiments, I found the Creature Comfort seat more comfortable, but I do have a choice…










I can fit my measuring board and a tackle tray under the seat now. I reclined the seat base 4 degrees (like a good chair!) This setup will be good for a solid day of comfortable kayak fishing!

*Made Fishing Shelf Shorter*

Raising the seat 4" caused my shins to rub on the fishing shelf at the bow. I cut 4" off the length of the old shelf.










I had to make new outer clamp assemblies and move them forward.










This meant moving everything else except the fish finder base. I plugged the old holes with thickened epoxy and painted the previously varnished assembly to hide the "scars."










I removed the rod holder from the shelf in order to make room for the Torqeedo throttle. The throttle mounts to the rigid base on the far left.










View of fishing shelf including the seat. Everything is within easy reach, yet out of the way of my paddle stroke.

*Next*

Install new rudder pedals at forward seating position.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Rigging the Torqeedo Motor*

*Fitting New Rudder Pedals*

I really like my toe control rudder system, but they simply won't have enough leverage to steer this powerful motor.










Unfortunately, Smart Track's rudder assembly mount hole spacing is off by 1/4" from the traditional Feathercraft system that Chesapeake Light Craft sells. I used a 1/4" plunge cutting router bit in my drill press to elongate the holes.










The cut turned out nice.










I found 1/16" thimbles at my local hardware store. These protect the cable from fraying.










These make a sturdy connection to the aft end of the rudder assembly. NOTE: I cut some of the T-track off the rudder assembly to make room for the thimble.










The thimbles also make a nice connection for the caribiners to the steering triangle.

*Torqeedo Parts*










The throttle mounts to the fishing shelf. Notice the motor lift jam cleat on the starboard side and the reverse lock on the port side.










I improved the motor lift system by adding an extra set of pulleys to increase the mechanical advantage. The final pulleys arrive tomorrow, but I'll use these ones for my test run tomorrow.










The battery will normally mount on top of my fish cooler. New footman loops arrive tomorrow, so I'm strapping the battery to the cooler footman loops on the floor for the test run.










View of the stern.










The temp is forecast for 50 degrees tomorrow and the winds are favorable in Two Harbors. I plan to don my dry suit and launch the kayak in Lake Superior tomorrow to test out the motor.

*Next*

Results from my test run of the motor.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Torqeedo Works Great!*

*Awesome Test Run!*

I'm super happy with how the kayak/motor combo worked today during my test run at Agate Bay on Lake Superior. The raised seat was stable. The rudder pedals had plenty of authority. They got stiffer at full throttle, but that's a good thing since you don't want to slam the motor to the stop at high speed.










I went with a pretty bare boat for this run. No use losing equipment if things went poorly!

*Performance Results*

My max speed in a wind neutral area was a consistent 8.7 mph if I sat on the edge of my seat a bit. It held 8.4 mph seated normally.










The Torqeedo has a GPS built into the battery and it provides useful information on the throttle's LCD panel. This shot shows 94% of battery remaining, 6.1 miles range at current speed and throttle setting, 8.5 mph current speed, and 1,123 watts of power (that's wide open.) It's doing about 1 mph faster than any other results posted on the web that I could find.










This shot shows a more modest power setting with impressive results of 93% battery remaining, 29.0 miles range, 5.0 mph current speed and drawing only 157 watts. The Wood Duck is more sea kayak than fishing kayak and it shines with these performance numbers.










Kayak blade was catching a little water at full throttle.

*Assessment*

The motor performance results continue to affirm my opinion that the Wood Duck Double is the "Swiss Army Knife" of small boats. The stern didn't squat like I thought it might. I'm sure it will ride a bit lower with the rest of my fishing gear which is another 60 pounds including the cooler with ice, but I'm not anticipating any limiting problems with a full load. There was some swell out from the launch and I was able to surf it a bit and achieve a speed of 9.4 mph. The boat handled well and didn't take on any water during this. It will get wet in steep chop, but I fish smaller lakes. If I paddle on bigger water, I'll install one of my custom spray decks to keep out the waves.

*Next*

Report on how this new setup works for fishing.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Torqeedo Works Great!*
> 
> *Awesome Test Run!*
> 
> ...


nice going,....take it easy around White fish point!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Torqeedo Works Great!*
> 
> *Awesome Test Run!*
> 
> ...


Thanks, back to interior lakes after ice out. I couldn't wait to test it out!


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

DustyMark said:


> *Torqeedo Works Great!*
> 
> *Awesome Test Run!*
> 
> ...


I have no idea why, but every time you post something with this build I keep looking.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Torqeedo Works Great!*
> 
> *Awesome Test Run!*
> 
> ...


I guess there's just something special about a small boat!


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Torqeedo Works Great!*
> 
> *Awesome Test Run!*
> 
> ...


It has been interesting watch this build go on and change.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Torqeedo Works Great!*
> 
> *Awesome Test Run!*
> 
> ...


Thanks! Unfortunately, changes mean more money spent…customizing a boat has its costs/benefits.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Torqeedo Works Great!*
> 
> *Awesome Test Run!*
> 
> ...


I am wondering what is next?


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Torqeedo Works Great!*
> 
> *Awesome Test Run!*
> 
> ...


I need to make a folding ramp for Copper to get back into the side of his dog blind after a retrieve. I told Mary that a sail rig is off the table, but maybe in a year or two I'll readdress that upgrade!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Torqeedo Works Great!*
> 
> *Awesome Test Run!*
> 
> ...


Dont worry about the money just do it because big boats or small boats if Gitchie Goomie wants you, your hers.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Torqeedo Works Great!*
> 
> *Awesome Test Run!*
> 
> ...


Rob, we go with the mantra that "the Lake is the boss." We do most of our hardcore paddling with a 22 1/2' triple kayak. I used to be a helicopter rescue pilot in Alaska and have set us up with safety gear from what I learned up there. Our gear includes neoprene spray skirts, an electric bilge pump in each cockpit, flares, strobes, VHF marine radio, personal locator beacon, day signal flag, air horn, drysuits with appropriate insulating layers, and extra paddles. We tether ourselves to the boat since we don't paddle in a group. We monitor the marine forecast and pack a couple days extra food to wait out bad weather. We also regularly practice self rescue techniques in the same waters we paddle. If she takes us, we really had a bad day…


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Updated Fishing Configuration*

*Refined Ergonomics and More Capable*

After fishing with the kayak a couple times, I had an "Ah, Hah" moment and realized that if I raised the anchor/rod holder assembly above the cooler and moved it back slightly, it would work a lot better. Check out this video for a short tour of the new fishing configuration.










With the rod holders and anchor assembly moved further back, it's much easier to reach everything since it's less of a twist of the body. This also allowed me access to the cooler without having to reach through the rods. It's a lot easier to get a big northern pike in the cooler now!

The cooler is secured to the floor by tie-down straps to footman loops. The Torqeedo battery is mounted to the top of the cooler with the same method. I don't want to lose an expensive battery if I tip the kayak over! It's waterproof to only 1 meter for 30 minutes…not to the bottom of the lake!

The YakAttack paddle holders are quite secure and quiet in operation.










Starboard view. I'm looking forward to fishing with the new motor! I reached a top speed of 8.7 mph earlier this week (without all the fishing gear.)

The YakAttack Visi-Carbon Pro flag and light will make me more visible day and night.










Port view. My travel fly rod fits nicely in the foreground. I like to cast big streamer flies at pike when I get the chance. The rod in the red case is a two-piece crappie jigging rod. That will see a lot of action after ice-out.

The YakAttack anchor trolley runs along the length of the port side. I run my regular anchor through it and I often connect my anchor pole to it in shallow water. The trolley repositions the anchor along the length of the boat so you can face the wind or have it to your back.










The YakAttack Omega Pro rod holder made it easier to fasten the rod holder to the bow area of the boat after it got displaced from the fishing shelf by the Torqeedo throttle. I used 1/8" thick aluminum plate to make a backing plate for the YakAttack Mighty Mount 2 base and the result is an amazingly solid rod holder mount.

The red rod half behind the seat is an unused rod that I attached a fly reel loaded with Kevlar line and a lure retriever. I saw this setup from a profession kayak angler and anticipate good results retrieving lures from submerged trees and the mine pit lakes we often fish…

In the background, Mary's new Wilderness Systems ATAK 120 kayak is rigged and waiting on delivery of her Torqeedo motor!










A sit-inside kayak typically has less room to operate and store gear than a sit-on-top kayak. This shelf gives me advantages over sit-on-tops due to easy access to gear. The fish finder and transducer arm are easy to deploy/operate from my seat.

I designed and sewed the hook removal kit. We fish northern pike a lot and removing lures from their mouths can be a challenge. This kit includes pliers to hold the lip, grippy glove to hold the fish, mouth spreader, mini-bolt cutters to cut hooks, hemostats for smaller grabs, long-nose pliers, and braided line scissors. I'm designing and sewing one for my wife that will mount under the seat of her new sit-on-top fishing kayak.

The throttle is an easy reach from the seat. I had to move the rod holder from the shelf to the deck of the boat, to make room for the throttle, and that's now a bit of a reach. However, if I slide forward on the seat it's doable.

Under the deck and in front of the rudder pedals is enough room to stow my flying fishing stripping basket, fly real case, and tackle tray with my streamer flies. It's nicely out of the way until I need it.










I raised the Creature Comfort seat 4" and also reclined the new base 4 degrees. This significantly improved the comfort. My legs are in a better position for staying in the seat longer and I seem to reach back to the Anchor Wizard, cooler, and rods more easily.

Bass plastics are stored in the small pouch on the starboard side. A 10 amp hour lithium battery (that powers the fish finder) is stored on the port side of the seat. The line with the red ball is the reverse lock for the motor.

*Conclusion*

It's difficult to anticipate everything up front as you build a kayak and fit it out. Putting a configuration to use and keeping a critical/creative eye can result in some significant improvements. Thankfully, a plywood boat (that you built yourself) is pretty easy to modify and further improve. You can always fill old holes with epoxy, drill new ones, and paint over the "scars."

*Next*

More field reports…


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

DustyMark said:


> *Updated Fishing Configuration*
> 
> *Refined Ergonomics and More Capable*
> 
> ...


This is the swiss army knife of kayaks because of all the work you have put into outfitting it! You have this thing dialed in to near perfection. Here's to many hours of enjoyment after the work you have put into it! Nice job!


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

DustyMark said:


> *Updated Fishing Configuration*
> 
> *Refined Ergonomics and More Capable*
> 
> ...


Thanks Steve! As I filled my house (and a lot of my daughter's townhouse) with furniture I'd built, I started to branch into other challenging projects that used the same tools and a similar skill set like small boats and even a teardrop camper. The large, open cockpit of the Wood Duck Double is a blank canvas to outfit the kayak for many different uses. The outfitting process is enjoyable and you're right about the enjoyment in the outdoors using the final product.


----------



## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

*Two-Year Update: Cracked the Hull Twice*

I absolutely love my Wood Duck Double kayak. However, I put it through a lot of hard use and flooded timber duck hunting proved too much for the hull in its original lay up.










This photo shows an old crack repaired left of the keel and a new crack right of the keel that needed a repair. The hull is pretty flat and the fiberglass is quite light inside and out. Paddling over deadfalls in a river with a full 400-pound payload caused the hull to crack from the outside in. If I were to build another boat like this, I'd add another layer of plywood inside the main floor area to stiffen it up for heavy duty use and use 10-ounce cloth for the exterior hull. This adds weight, but so does a cracked hull that takes on water!










Crack sanded and ready for a layer of 10-ounce fiberglass cloth for a repair. I eventually sanded all the paint off the inside of the hull and added a layer of 6-ounce fiberglass cloth over the floor. That got me through the rest of the duck season in flooded timber.










I recently added a layer of 10-ounce fiberglass cloth over the outer hull to just past the chine on each side. I added a narrower layer of 10-ounce fiberglass cloth over that in the high wear areas. The shiny section is the second layer before sanding. We have a 2-hour paddle and drag along a river to get to the ducks. The dragging causes a lot of wear on the hull.










I added a bit of filler in the bow where breaking through ice had worn through the fiberglass into the wood. The extra layers of fiberglass will also help with this.










Photo shows previous cracks and deep scratches.










Stern gets a lot of wear when dragging over portages.

*Final Thoughts*

The extra fiberglass makes the boat more suited to my purposes while duck hunting in rugged conditions. I probably added 10 pounds to the hull weight with these mods, but it's now more reliable 4 miles from the landing. The Wood Duck Double is an excellent all-around kayak and remains my favorite of the 26 small boats I've owned over the years.


----------

