# Trying my first hand plane clean-up attempt!



## Lost_in_sawdust (May 25, 2011)

Also my first official post here! So- hello everyone  love this community and so far, it has been my biggest source for help! ( and the wood whisperer ) lol

Ok- I have read around several posts on restoring Stanley hand planes, but haven't come across this question, I'm sorry if it has been asked! 
I just got 2 planes from Grandpa, and a few more will soon follow I'm sure )

A Stanley #2- that was kept in good condition only some rust, but when I placed it in the rust remover and washed it off, looked brand new for about a min.
Then it took on a somewhat yellowish look? I'm wonder what I'm doing wrong…should I not rinse it off under water after? 
Also- at some point about 30 yrs ago. It got dropped and the sole broke, which he took to a welder friend and fixed ( my opinion it's crap patch job) but idk if I can work around it?

The other is a Stanley SW- but it has no numbers other than patents! 
Lol
I'm going to attempt to follow up now, with pics. Since I don't think I can from my iPhone 

Thanks all!


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## Lost_in_sawdust (May 25, 2011)

Ok- here are the pics of the no 2 and the SW plane.
Thanks again guys!!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I can't see the pictures but it's not uncommon to get a yellow oxidized hue. It should disappear after oiling or waxing. Nice gift, a Stanley #2! Welcome to LJ!


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

That #2 is junk. Send it to me and I'll use it for a paperweight. 

Seriously though, even though there are a few issues here, it's still a fairly rare and valuable plane. How you go about restoring it depends on what it is you want.

Personally, I'm not trying to preserve antique value when I clean up a plane. I just like it to look as shiny and new as possible. I never use rust removers. I start off by soaking the parts in Simple Green to get the grunge and dirt off, then I start working on the rust by applying a liberal amount of WD40 to soften it up. After it sits a while, I just go after it with a combination of sandpaper, wire brushes, buffing wheel… whatever seems to be working best. No two are exactly alike in my short restoration experience.

For lapping the sole and sides, I stick self-adhesive sandpaper to a slab of granite, and rub like crazy till everything is flat.

As for the cracked tote, you can make a glue repair, or just get a replacement on eBay.


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## DaddyZ (Jan 28, 2010)

Congrats !!!


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

The block plane is something like a #18 or perhaps a #65. Sometimes the planes are numbered on the side of the plane. A photo from a bit further back would be helpful in identification. Is it a standard or low angle plane?

I'm in the do as little as possible camp for restorations. Both of your planes have collector value. Though the repair on the #2 has a pretty big impact on value.


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## Lost_in_sawdust (May 25, 2011)

I'm not worrying too much on keeping the value, the main value to me is that it was my grandfathers  but I don't want to take it's original character either… Or knowing me- ruin it! Lol so I am mostly focusing on getting the metal nice and shiny - and making sure everything is flat to use. Japanning is still 90% so I will just put some shellac to coat it. 
I'm nervous that the metal is now starting to turn black after her second bath- is this normal? Lol


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

What kind of rust remover are you using?

Also for more info on the planes check this site.

http://www.supertool.com/stanleybg/stan0a.html

Take a look at the #18 and #65….


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## Lost_in_sawdust (May 25, 2011)

Wayne, here is the SW plane…sorry I'm still trying to get the formatting size down lol
I'm using krud kutter- the must for rust…I don't have a battery charger for the electrolysis just yet. 
Thanks again!


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

The block plane looks like an #18. I have not used your de-ruster, so I cannot comment on the discoloration.

I would not think these are rusted to the point I would consider electrolysis. These should clean up just fine.


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## woodgu (Oct 21, 2010)

Reference info that you may find handy..


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

I think the yellow you are getting is flash rusting, there may be some instruction on your rust remover with regard to flashing. Welcome to the club, soon you will be a very sick man, you will have imprinted Patrick's blood and gore on the inside of your eyelids, will stalk local tag sales at 6:00 in the morning, and have vats of evaporust, bubbling water, and metal dust all over your shop. Now say it with me … My name is lost in sawdust .. and im an addict.


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## wb8nbs (Jan 11, 2011)

I use electrolysis to clean planes and dry the parts as quick as I can when they are removed from the bath. Also use a brass bristle brush to scrub off the residue, it doesn't scratch the iron but notice it leaves a light brass color to the parts. I believe that is due to brass plating from the brush to the iron. Apply paste wax as soon as the parts are completely dry.


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## Lost_in_sawdust (May 25, 2011)

Goodmorning everyone! 
Just wanted to say thanks again, for help and direction for this. Blood and Gore is overwhelmingly amazing, also thanks for the link Phil, the pictures helped! Lol
Wanted to update on the progress- Here she is all cleaned up- today I will be lapping the sole and sides. 



























The only thing that's bothering me is the lighter color on the tote, I sand that epoxy as gently as I could! Lol
Maybe some garnet shellac?

Thanks all!!


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## pierce85 (May 21, 2011)

Very nice job on the restore - dramatic improvement.

Re: the black residue, which I think is black oxide - someone correct me if I'm wrong. I've gotten that as well when I mistakenly had a part not completely submerged in my Evaporust bath. It left a black line along the point of exposure. It was the dickens to remove.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Nice job so far. A really good metal guy could fix the bad repair if you know one. You could also buy or make a replacement tote. The #2 is a pretty rare plane. Search LJs for tips. A lot of good resources.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

These have seen better days the one with brazing is beyond salvage in my opinion sorry as Charlie said paperweight maybe,or ornament. but for practical use maybe with care,if that is acceptable. There are many planes out there with rust ,which basically need restoring, by taking apart cleaning, sanding ,a reasembly but when you have damage of this serious nature then there for the dusty bin sorry. Alistair


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I was totally joking about the paperweight thing, Alistair. 

I think your restore is looking very good. If this were a common #4, and didn't have the sentimental value of having belonged to your grandfather, I would not bother with it. But because it is a fairly rare #2, and because it does have sentimental value, I think you are absolutely doing the right thing by restoring it as best you can.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I almost bought a 4 1/2 repaired like this one a while ago. I planned to laminate a veneer to both sides to hide the repair just to try it. I think id leave this one. To me, a repair done correctly can give a tool some character. There is a story behind that break, and in this case it could be your grandfathers story. Restore it, use it, and imagine what that story may be.


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## Lost_in_sawdust (May 25, 2011)

The repair, although in a different metal, was done about 30 years ago- so I don't think it's too fragile to actually use the plane  and what a sad thought to have a paperweight with such potential!! Lmao jk
Did this today- it's official, this girl is now addicted!! 


















It's a start! And my first official shavings )


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## wb8nbs (Jan 11, 2011)

Well it certainly works! Put it in production and to heck with the purists.

One of my favorite planes is a Stanley 4 that has a patch riveted on one side. It's been carefully filed smooth and the plane works good as any. I like it because the previous owner cared enough about the plane to do a good quality repair. I'm guessing it was dropped and fixed during the depression. Today a Stanley with a fractured casting would be discarded. I wish I knew the history but the seller said it was his grandfather's and he passed years ago.


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## Lost_in_sawdust (May 25, 2011)

Perhaps it came off the same production line as my grandfathers! Lol
From his account he accidentally dropped it while in use, but to crack to front off? Maybe he forgot and it went off a board and shot into a concrete wall! Lol
Now All I need to do is learn how to actually use it! Not randomly make shavings


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## wb8nbs (Jan 11, 2011)

Looks like you're getting uniform full width shavings. This is a smoothing plane so you should grind a slight radius in the blade edge so you get that thickness of shaving in the center, but it tapers off to nothing at the edges. That way it doesn't leave a ridge at the blade edge. Other than that I'd say you are good to go.

Wish I had a #2.


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