# Long Ranger III (Remote dust collector switch)



## grubb

I upgraded my dust collection system this summer and went with the rockler remote system. It has a key chain remote about the same size as the one for my truck. It has been the become one of my favorite tools. I moved my dust collector into a dedicated room along with the air compressor and just click the button and open a blast gate. After working with a system like this I don't see how I ever worked without it.


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## DIYaholic

*Hi Ho Silver Away*....

Mine just arrived today!!! Yea!

Now I just have to finish the *"Basement Dungeon to Woodworkers Liar"* setup of my shop! You can follow my progress, or lack there of on MY Blog.

I hope this eliminates your *unbearable & physiologically excruciating burden* to save your lungs!!!


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## PCM

I've enjoyed using the PSI Longer Ranger for about 8 months. Its simple, convenient and effective which helps me use my HF 2HP dust collector more often. (You're not the only lazy A** out there). A highly recommended device.


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## Sawkerf

I got the Long Ranger 220v remote last summer to replace the Shop Fox unit. One of the Shop Fox transmitters had failed and they don't sell just the transmitters. Their systems are hard coded at the factory and can't be re-coded.

The Long Ranger cost a bit more, but it seems to be a sturdier unit and it's easy to re-code additional transmitters. I keep three transmitters at convenient locations so I'm never more than a couple of steps away from one of them. Carrying a transmitter would be a non-starter for me since - within a few days - it would be somewheere in the house or truck. - lol


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## lurker

I've used this remote switch with my HF DC for over two years now without a problem.


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## Viking

I just got my Long Ranger about a month ago and am very pleased with it. I installed my HF DC on a flatbed cart along with a 30 gallon pre-separator to make both more mobile. In its normal parking position the power switch is on back making it even more awkward to reach it. The LR solved this well. I removed the belt clip and replaced with a small magnet and just stick the remote on the side of the DC when not using it. (my cell phone and tape measure didn't welcome an outsider on my belt) ;-)

Thanks for a great review. I had same issue with the bracket as well.

Good luck!


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## dustyal

Mine has been working great for over a year. I use it primarily for HF dust collector… but lately I've used it a lot for shopvac… very handy, convenient. Well worth the $'s.


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## Woodn88s

I've had the 220 model for over 5 yrs with no problems. just today I've had a problem with the handheld transmitter, I changed the battery but it still just turns on when it feels like it. I will buy a new hand held unit, you can easily change the codes so thats not a problem.


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## dorald

I've had mine for a little over a year and a half now. Works great EXCEPT a lot of the times the remote does NOT activate the HF unit. Sometimes I have to almost get on top of the receiver to get it to turn on. It is mounted in plain sight with no obstructions.

Any other deals guts???


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## splintergroup

Been using the 220V version for 5+ years now.

A handful of times, the remote refused to work. I ended up needing to repeat the programming procedure which takes all of 10 seconds.
I like the belt clip, but way to often I accidentally drop it on the concrete floor when reaching in my pocket or grabbing my tape measure which I usually hang right next to it. As a result, some times the battery cover has popped off, but it snaps back on without any issues. No cracking or other signs of damage.

The 'on' pushbutton is getting a bit difficult. These switches are sealed units, so it's not like a cheap TV remote where you need to scrub down the contacts every so often. Eventually I'll just solder in a new switch.

Beyond the switch, this unit has been great.


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## dorald

I have been using one of these for some time now and it is starting to give me problems. It is refusing to start the HF Blower unless I walk almost up to it, (at times). . . or move the sender unit around. Turning things off is no problem.

When I went to unplug the blower the other day for maintenance, the HF plug pulled the receptacle right out of the body of the unit. I pushed it back in, thinks seem to be OK. I haven't had time to investigate further as to why the plug stuck but plan to today, 8/29/2016.

Are all you other rguys still happy with yours? Still operating OK?


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## splintergroup

Still ok. After a number of blasts of compressed air directly at the 'on' switch (with the circuit board removed from the case), the switch now works as new again.

When the switch was giving me grief, I had originally thought it was loosing its range (Had to get near the receiver while pressing the switch). Eventually I figured out the range was as before, I just had to keep pressing until it decided to power up the DC.

Could this be part of your startup/range problem?


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## jayseedub

I've had the Long Ranger III for several years, and it's a solid performer. I will say that the plastic that the remote is made with couldn't be more brittle (though, amazingly, it hasn't broken on me) or crummy. The buttons could be larger-but again, it hasn't been a significant issue for performance.

It has the feel of a tool that was made as cheaply as possible-and still work. A little pride shown by the designer and manufacturer in materials selection and design would be welcomed.


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## dorald

I have had mine for a few years now and after putting up with spotty ON areas, I decided to search for a solution.

I was having trouble with it "hearing" the ON signal from several places in my single car garage shop. It could hear the OFF signal just fine from everywhere. I called the company but they just responded with the typical canned answers. No help really.

After thinking about it a while, I decided there was nothing to loose by opening it up and seeing if anything was loose or broken. Finding nothing, I drilled a small hole in the case a little larger then the internal antenna wire. I fed the antenna through this hole and put the case back together making sure to fully extend it.

Much to my surprise, it could now hear the ON signal from everywhere in my small shop. No dead spots as before and has been working flawlessly ever since.

I'm not recommending this solution but in my case, it took care of my problem. . .


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## splinter1000

Greetings,

I was wondering if any of you could tell me if this unit requires a clear line of site from the remote to the control box (i.e., do you need to aim the remote at the wall mounted control box). Preferably, I would like to activate the control box without aiming the remote ( i.e., bouncing the signals off the wall).

Thanks for any help.


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## firefighterontheside

Mine is in a closet off of my shop. The door going into the closet is glass. I simply point mine at the door, but the unit is not in that actual direction. It works pretty well this way. Sometimes I can just clip it on my pants and push the buttons and other times I have to point it.


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## Routerisstillmyname

Does not require clear line of site. i can turn mine on/off from outside garage.or facing opposite way.


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## splinter1000

Thanks all for the reply!


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## dorald

I've had mine for several years now and in the beginning it worked fine with my HF dust system. After a while I was having a "distance" problem. It wouldn't turn on unless I was practically on top of it sometimes. Turning OFF wasn't a problem though. I contacted PSI for help . . . Not much help there. Change battery, location, etc. Standard answers!

Tore into it myself. Everything looked fine as far as I could see, no shorts, loose connections, etc. Did see the wire antenna and thought it might be better if it were outside the unit for better reception. That was the problem that developed after a year or so. Drilled a small hole and routed the wire through it. Straightened the antenna as much as possible. Remounted the unit in the EXACT same place and it worked much better, not 100% but a definite improvement. ON & OFF response is as it was originally. I'm not recommending this solution for everyone, but for me, it worked. . . Wonder if it would help to extend the length of the antenna? Any thoughts anyone?


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## splintergroup

The antenna is set to length based on its operating frequency. If you lengthen it you need to do that in even fractions of the wavelength (do you know what frequency it operates at? 8^)

That aside, I had the same problem with my LR2, turning on was a pain. Ended up being a failing "on" switch. This was a small pushbutton soldered directly to the circuit board, not trivial to replace. I'll do it someday, but I have "fixed" it with a good blasting with compressed air (so far-so good, dust I assume)


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## firefighterontheside

Mine quit working completely a month ago. Thought it was toast. That was a rough week of walking into the closet and switching it on manually. Then I googled the problem and read about about the pairing button. I did this and it worked perfectly again. I wonder if pairing it every so often will keep it working better.


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## Jaybird64

I haven't heard one person say anything about if this will work with magnetic switches. Which is my problem. I have a Grizzly G0440 2HP single phase, 220V, 20amp. I receive my LR3 tonight and got is setup with both remotes. I turned on the magnetic switch to my DC and then hit the LR3 ON button. The green light illuminated on the magnetic switch but the DC unit failed to turn on. However, the LR3 OFF button will turn the DC off.

I really want to keep my LR3 if someone can tell me how to correct my DC magnetic switch, if possible.

Thanks!

Btw- What does HF stand for?


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## firefighterontheside

Magnetic switches are meant to turn themselves off if power is interrupted and not come back on when power is restored. It will not work the way you want with that switch.

HF = harbor freight.


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## Routerisstillmyname

Did you get the LR for 220 volt or 110. HF stands for good old Harbor Fright


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## Jaybird64

> Magnetic switches are meant to turn themselves off if power is interrupted and not come back on when power is restored. It will not work the way you want with that switch.
> 
> HF = harbor freight.
> 
> - firefighterontheside


Thanks for the feedback! So with that being said, what are my alternatives? I should mention that my shop is a 2-story brick building. The DC is upstairs and all my large machines are on the main level. My Grizzly IR-remote will only work in line-of-sight, which is why I bought the Long Ranger III. (This is all a new build and I'm in the process of routing the duct system.) I plan on keeping my new DC.

Is it possible to change out the OEM magnetic switch with a non-magnetic switch, provided that it can operate the same specs…2HP 1PH, 220v/20amps? If so, where can I find one?

Or can I have an electrician hard wire my unit directly to use the LG3 remote?

I thought about (don't laugh) building a "thru floor periscope" to reflect the IR into the switch.


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## firefighterontheside

Grizzly sells a lot of switches. One like this would work. You may need to mount a new box in place of your magnetic one.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Single-Phase-On-Off-Switch-110-230V/D4157

Another option along the lines of your periscope idea is to relocate your existing switch in a location that is visible from the first floor. Then you'd be able to use your original remote.


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## Jaybird64

Thanks for the link to the safety switch. I might give this a shot. This way I could still use my LR3. Mounting the magnetic switch on the first floor won't work for me because I will still have stations upstairs for doing smaller stuff that still create dust, like a secondary router table, sanding station, etc.


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## firefighterontheside

Sounds like a great shop. Pictures?


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## Jaybird64

Well, I took your advice and replaced my Grizzly magnetic switch with a Grizzly 220V safety switch, as shown in the picture. I tested it after rewiring it and it worked. Then I plugged it into the Longer Ranger 111 and I got the same result as with the magnetic switch. It will shut off but won't turn on the DC. This is probably because the ON switch is a push button, unlike a toggle or rocker switch.

With it still plugged into the LR3, I held down the safety switch ON button and then pressed the LR3 remote ON button, and it fired up. With my finger still holding down the safety switch ON button I then pressed the LR3 remote OFF button, and it over-rode the ON feature and shut the DC off.

Maybe this still isn't the right switch to be using? Theoretically my test proves that it works this way if the safety switch ON button was held down. I thought about using epoxy or superglue to lock the ON button in place, but not sure if this would be safe, including any residual adhesive fumes inside the switch box.

Now what? Hire an electrician?


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## firefighterontheside

Apparently that is a magnetic switch, even though it doesn't say so. I went looking for one that didn't say magnetic, but steered you in the wrong direction. I guess you need to have a toggle switch.


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