# Pole barn conversion questions.



## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

I am considering moving to a new property that has a 32' by 40 ' newer pole barn with a concrete floor and off center drive through. It would have to be shared space and allow winter storage of truck and boat. Shop would not be in use during winters. Summers are mild. Doors are overhead and sliding. Current shop is in a crowded 11' by 22' space. My question are

should I do this? 
what issues should I consider? 
what would I need to do to make it shop ready?

Here is a first draft of a shop layout:


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## fuigb (Apr 21, 2010)

"Pole bar conversion"

Cto, nie piwo? Guvno.


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## bruc101 (Sep 13, 2008)

> "Pole bar conversion"
> 
> Cto, nie piwo? Guvno.
> 
> - fuigb


How about pole barn.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I also have a 32×40 pole bar. I didn't use for my shop because I couldn't figure out a real good (and easy) way to insulate it. Insulation will be needed (probably) regardless of whether you heat or not, in the summer the radiant heat from the roof of mine makes it so hot it wouldn't be possible to work in there. I suppose I could have the whole thing spray foamed but there aren't a lot (none I'm aware of) of contractors around me that do that. Couple of other things: the trusses are on 8' centers, so doing a ceiling would need some more reinforcement. Also (maybe a bigger deal) it actually rains inside my barn if the conditions are just right. I get condensation on the steel roof (which is just laid on purlins) and it steams to the purlins and then drips. So you walk into the barn and see streaks of water on the floor that are directly below each purlin. Mine had some other issues (inadequate electric, etc.) you may not have. Wish you the best with the effort.


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## Sunstealer73 (Sep 2, 2012)

I have my shop in a converted pole barn. I framed in between the posts with 2×6's and then ran my electrical, air, and insulation in those spaces. I then had a drywall crew come in and finish it out. It is probably insulated better than most houses now.


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## fuigb (Apr 21, 2010)

> "Pole bar conversion"
> 
> Cto, nie piwo? Guvno.
> 
> ...


[humor] dupajosz [/humor]


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

> "Pole bar conversion"
> 
> Cto, nie piwo? Guvno.
> 
> - fuigb


Tylko małe piwo dla Ciebie!



> "Pole bar conversion"
> 
> Cto, nie piwo? Guvno.
> 
> ...





> "Pole bar conversion"
> 
> Cto, nie piwo? Guvno.
> 
> ...


I just should not type without putting on my glasses. Anyway I fixed the typo.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

Thanks *Fred Hargi*s and *Sunstealer73*. The current owner does have a small shop in the top half quarter, so perhaps it does not rain inside. I will have to ask. But my thought now is I would simply have to build a large 16' by 40' insulated room inside the structure. This may not be so cheap. Would probably need to insulate the roof. Also venting fans for the roof I suppose. I haven't bought it yet, and will take another look tomorrow before making an offer.


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## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

Don, Here are some ideas to think about.

My shop got warmer in winter and cooler in summer when I installed a hanging ceiling and put insulation above that.

How high are your ceilings? High windows let you have light and still keep valuable wall space. Installing used sliding glass windows sideways works too.

A major expense will be electrical. You should have at least seven 220 outlets. and fourteen 110 outlets plus whatever lighting you want to add.

220: saw, dust collector, belt sander, compressor, band saw, dual drum sander, planer.

Vertical wood storage along the empty wall across the driveway will help.

You will need an out-feed table for your saw. I use two more Craig's List saws yoked together as an outfeed table. The yoked saws are great for dado set ups. So I can run work through all three saws.

Vertical wood storage…










If you can work in high windows…










Yoked saws…


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

IF you need to insulate it, Sunstealer's method would be my choice (2×4s will work). As far as the condensation problems (raining in the barn), a ridge cap vent and fan should fix that problem.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

*Al* Yoked saws … interesting idea. Once I have the fuse box replaced with a circuit breaker box I can do the wiring. I only use two 220 circuits now (Dust collector and Big band saw) but planning ahead for 7 is a good idea. For when I upgrade. I've kept most of my equipment small as I don't have the room in the garage shop for bigger stuff that would require 220.

Yes *gfadvm* I think your right.

I'll try to remember to take some photos tomorrow for posting of what it looks like, I'll also take some true measurements. Other issues to work out too. We may decide to keep looking.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

double post


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

If you can build a room under the barn I think that's the best way to do it.
I suggest plastic and plywood on top of the ceiling just in case the barn develops leaks down the road.
I did this for a small room in my pole barn and after insulating it is quite a nice space.

You would save the expense and aggravation of insulating the roof.
If its a metal roof thats a big job plus once again if you ever get a leak you won't know it.

I would start planning ahead for a separate carport for the boat and truck ;-)


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

Thanks we are looking at that idea. I hope to add a drive through lean-to on the side as a boat-port Thing is the lake is just a cross the road, maybe I rent some dock space from some one. Behind the property is the Misery river, but shallow at the spot.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

My shop back in TN was a 30' X 40' pole barn that I poured a concrete floor in. . In the first few pix of my blog you can see the framing of it. I opted for the "insulation" option but shouldn't have bothered. It was some kind of "layered aluminum sheeting" that they rolled on the rafters before putting on the roofing tin. I used foamboard to insulate the walls and it helped a lot. I lived there 8 years and never did add insulation to the ceiling. I had four 52" Hunter ceiling fans up in the rafters and they moved the air around fine.

Here's a link ,,, http://lumberjocks.com/JoeinGa/blog/33362 
.
.

.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

*Al* Floor to rafters is 9 feet.

Walls are partially finished with a layer of chipboard between the metal sheeting and the posts. The floor is poured concrete. There is electric running to the pole barn, just needs to be upgraded to a circuit breaker box. There is the usual high layer of semitransparent sheeting letting in some light. It has a ridge vent. I was in it yesterday during a rain storm. It did not leak. Its is 30' by 40' and not 32' by 40' as I reported earlier.

Here are three among several photos the Realtor took.


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## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

Don, Here are some sort of random thought on pole barn shops. The translucent panel will help with light, but won't add ventilation or insulation. If you buy this, I would make a circuit of the local building supply stores and see what has been returned and is sitting around. I would favor sliding glass doors set on their sides with something that you could open interspersed. You could have windows or just three or four homemade doors that would open for air.

If you are looking around or building a new barn, have 12 foot ceilings. More room for high windows and turning material around.

In this barn, you could put the framework for your hung ceiling about 5 inches below the rafters and then lay insulation between the rafters on the ceiling. Make sure the trusses are designed to hold the added load on the bottom span.

I helped a friend build his shop in a pole barn. We put down insulation, installed plastic tubing, and then poured concrete over the piping. All he uses for heat is a water heater and a circulating pump. It is comfortable enough to work in all winter. Of course our winters are much milder than yours. I can work comfortably in my shop if it is 50 degrees or slightly less. Floor heat means you don't have any fans, flames, or grills to contend with in a dusty environment.

An insulated garage door with a good bottom and side seals helps too.

While it is empty, I would consider putting a sealer on the floor. It will make it much easier to sweep and keep clean.


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## DanielS (Feb 4, 2013)

If there isn't a suitable vapor barrier under the concrete, then it can get and stay pretty damp in humid parts of the year. One third of my parents barn is like that. Theirs is insulated, but without a fan blowing across it the floor is surprisingly wet.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

We did put an offer on the property and they have countered. So we need to decide what to do next.

I do have two sets of sliding glass doors that I kept after a remodel. Maybe I could make them into big awning windows.

I'll have to ask if the floor is ever wet, but it seems very dry to me now and its been a little humid.

Maybe in the home inspection I can add that they consider the trusses in barn for holding the weight of an insulated hung ceiling. I can ask the home owners if there is a vapor barrier under the concrete.

My plan now should we get it is to insulate and finish the walls and put in a hung ceiling. but other wise leave the space open. Also to put insulated floor in certain sections.

What is a good concrete floor sealant? I painted a garage floor once (after a muriatic acid and proper concrete floor paint) and it was a disaster, pealed and flaked off the next year.

Why not just put a drywall ceiling in?


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## Sergeant82d (Jul 29, 2014)

I work in a 30×40 ft pole barn - un-insulated - in southern Oklahoma, year round. I have a diesel blast heater and a wood stove for the winter which warms it enough for the three weeks of really cold weather we have each year, and several box fans & ceiling fans to cool it during the summer. It leaks like a sieve - I position my machines and benches in the dry spots. Has decent power service and I wire it as needed. Cold/hard concrete floor, rubber horse stall pads where I'm working a lot.

I'm *hopefully* going to close in about 14×16 or so for a bench room - insulated and climate controlled with a raised wood floor, but that's at least three years down the line, I expect.

All I'm trying to say is, you don't have to have living room comfort as a shop. FWIW, I'm retired (Army) and work in the shop 3-12 hours nearly every day (if my back allows).


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

We could not agree on a purchase price on this property. So we are continuing to look. I am very grateful for the to you all for the information posted here. I have learned enough so I know what to do and look for or build if necessary.

Thanks for all the advice. But for now I remain in my crowded garage shop.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

I believe every thing happens for a reason.
Maybe the next one you find won't need much work.
Good luck in your search.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

Thanks. Me too. Right now I'm dealing with identity theft.


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## RogerBean (Apr 25, 2010)

I would recommend walling off the shop, insulating and heating the space. If not, depending on your weather, you may find rust in about a week in the fall/spring seasons. My metal shop is in my pole barn, and the first year, I merely stored the machines in the unheated area. Mistake! Rust all over everything. It did clean off, but now in their insulated space, I keep the electric ceiling heater set to keep the temp above freezing in the winter, and have relatively little rust problem. Even here in SW Michigan.










My metal shop is on the near side of the building, under the near side shed roof. This is a bit more elaborate than some pole barns, but it's still a pole barn with a steel roof.

Roger


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Roger…..Wow!!

That's more than just a pole barn.
Want to see a pole barn I'll send you some pics!


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## buildingmonkey (Mar 1, 2014)

If that place is not sold in a month or so, you might put in another offer. I would offer less next time. If a place does not sell quick, soon it gets "stale". About a suspended ceiling, you can pick them up used for free or just a small price. Any time a commercial building gets remodeled, they haul the ceiling to the landfill, so talk to local contractors to let you know if they will be doing any commercial remodel jobs. If you help remove the ceiling, and have your trailer on the job at the right time, you can get a ceiling for a great deal.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

> If that place is not sold in a month or so, you might put in another offer. I would offer less next time. If a place does not sell quick, soon it gets "stale". About a suspended ceiling, you can pick them up used for free or just a small price. Any time a commercial building gets remodeled, they haul the ceiling to the landfill, so talk to local contractors to let you know if they will be doing any commercial remodel jobs. If you help remove the ceiling, and have your trailer on the job at the right time, you can get a ceiling for a great deal.
> 
> - buildingmonkey


Well, here is the bizarre update. They sent a message through the realtors asking if we would reconsider and buy at $127K our previous offer, but before we had a chance to respond they changed there minds and now say they won't take less then $130K. So we will wait for next year and see what it brings. Thanks for the info on dropped ceilings. Not much commercial activity around here, but if I travel a little, maybe I could find some. The option to buy now is mute I think, I had to buy a new furnace and new (old) truck. This used up our downpayment on a house savings with out tapping into retirement, etc. We could of course put our current house on the market. The decision to move is because our place is too big and the taxes are way to high. But its not a pressing decision.


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

$130k! Wow, for a house and a barn? Location, location, location.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

The house is across the street from a popular lake that I sometimes fish and is backed by the river that exits the lake.
Its on a paved road not far off from the main road. Issues I have are its 30 to 40 minutes from my work and I worry about being far from medical facilities. Winter will be brutal. The business in the town its in have nearly all closed. The house is a little small, but on the other hand it has large garage (2.5 car) space and the nice pole barn. So we waffle on buying it. Maybe it will there next year. I think we're done looking this year.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

If you run across another building. At the lumber yard I once worked at we sold what they called "thermal blankets" it was used in hay sheds to keep moisture from dripping from metal roof.
It looked like bubble wrap lined with foil on both sides. It was reasonable priced. It was moisture proof ! It could get damp and not loose its R value. It came in 93" width,


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

Thanks for the tip. Would Tyvek also work.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

When cool air hits the warm tin condensation happens, vice versa. The idea of the the thermal blanket is to stop the differences in air. The bubble wrap has an R value. I dont believe tyvek does ?


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

I see. Well I don't know about these things.


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