# Gray spots on black walnut after applying tung oil finish



## bujaman (Feb 15, 2017)

I am building a dining room table and after applying a coat of tung oil finish, some parts of the table took on a greyish hue. You can see the splotches on the attached photo (I started on the bottom of the table top, so hopefully I can get this fixed before doing the top!!). I sanded to 220 and applied the finish according to the instructions. Any ideas on why this is happening and how to fix it? Thanks in advance!


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

What you are seeing are areas that the finish has soaked in , very common .
not sure what "tung oil" your using .. but the key is to get the first coats on and dry, so it doesnt continue to soak in .
Pure tung oils and Blo and so forth dry super slow , and can often be softened by additional coats , so be sure it dry.
You have to fill the porous grain, note the "grey" is around knots where the grain is much more porous .
A good "drying oil " like Arm R seal, waterlox, minwax wipe on poly and Formbys Tung oil, will definately speed up the process.

So basically the simple answer is you need more finish , however , i hope you are doing the top as well as the bottom, applying a finish to one side can set up adverse drying conditions, and cause it to cup . 
some painters pyramids would help , to keep the bottom elevated so air moves uniformly as well .
I often will stand a top like this to keep air movement balanced .


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Needs Charles' trace coating, as well. Too late for the bottom, though. Think about it for the top.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

you got the best response possible i cannot top Charles :<))


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## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

I only have one item to add. Painter's pyramids will leave indentations in you table if you use them. Bench cookies will leave an imprint in the finish that is a real pain to et rid of. I usually finish bottom with a day in between coats to let the finish dry out and then flip it over an use some small wood blocks to hold it up while I finish the top. That way if there are any marks from the blocks they are on the bottom side of the table.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Earls , exactly right , note i said for the pyramids to be on the bottom, should have elaborated .

Thanks Earl. , 
Im not a fan of the cookies,cover too much surface area, and will "weld themselves to a fresh finish .
years ago we used to use "screw boards, ", would run a 2 or 3 " screw up threw a piece of scraps and use them the same as the pyramids , they as well left a small divot, but it was the bottom..
the key , is to keep an equal air flow, and balance with the finish .


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## bujaman (Feb 15, 2017)

Thanks everyone for your replies, you have given me a lot to work with.


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## Snipes (Apr 3, 2012)

It looks as if you are trying to make it appear thicker than it is, if so why not on the ends?


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## bujaman (Feb 15, 2017)

There are sliding "breadboard" ends that will accommodate extensions.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

I made something hold my projects up off the bench. They are small blocks of with biscuits. They're nothing fancy just functional. I believe I saw them in the Woodsmith magazine. I tried to load a photo but my camera shoots larger than 5mb.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

My suggestion is forget tung oil for a dining table, you need a more durable finish especially since walnut is a softer hardwood.


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