# Making a wooden lathe chuck?



## dpoisson (Jun 3, 2010)

Howdy folks,
I was wondering if anyone had ever made a wooden chuck, similar I guess to this:









I was wondering what wall thickness I should use (I'm planning on making this out of Cherry wood). Also, what type of bolts should I use to secure the chuck to my faceplate?

Cheers!

Fish


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Interesting idea. Not seen this approach before.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

I actually made something very similar. The only real difference was that mine was made to be held by my little Nova 4 jaw chuck.


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## Blackpearl (Jan 11, 2011)

I made one very simular I saw that someone had done one at SWAT last year. It worked okay but limited in range.

I used the Beal Tap to tap threads to match my spindle so I did not have to tie up a faceplate, the $20.00 tap was less expensive than the faceplate. I routinely make glue blocks that thread onto the spindle so I do not have to worry about hitting the chuck as I finish the bottoms of bowls.


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## dpoisson (Jun 3, 2010)

Cliff, I'm wondering how solid such a tap would be.

You're basically just drilling a hole and then tapping it to match your lathe. Then screw your wooden piece and then begin turning?

I'm guessing you used something similar: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=57074&cat=1,330,49238&ap=1

Fish


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

Here's a video on making and using one.






Thanks, Bob!


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## capnjack2 (Jun 16, 2011)

Hey! I'm new to this forum but post on WTO from time to time. That chuck looks great to me except that the tenon of the workpiece would have to be about 1/16th shy of the ID of the chuck. That way you allow the piece to get "pinched' in there when you tighten the hose clamp. I'll have to try it. I have a few small baseball bats on the to-do list!

Jack


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Ditto what Cliff said, too. I make a bunch of blanks, tap them and then glue on the project when needed. I use red oak for the screw on blank.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Dpoisson; I wouldn't bother with the dovetailed lip. I'm guessing this is a one off jig and if so, I would make the ID pretty close to the OD of the work piece. I would also line the ID with a medium to coarse sandpaper with contact cement. The wall of the chuck could be pretty much anything, but 1/2 inch sounds about right. Attach the chuck to the face plate with #10 wood screws about 1-1/2" long.


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