# Breadbox Class



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

*A Class by GaryK - I finally get off my lazy rear!*

I have been meaning to do a class for a long time now, but with a 4 year old daughter it's hard to get some time in the shop.

I have come up with a project with the *beginning woodworker* in mind.

The only tools needed are a tablesaw and a drill.

There are only 7 pieces of wood, some screws 2 hinges and some plugs for the screw holes.

There is even a part that you can really use your imagination on. It's the handle. You can experiment all you want with it without having to worry about messing anything else up.

For those more advanced you can take the basic box and go wild if you want.

This all started about 20 years ago when I made this very plain but functional breadbox










Over the years it has seen a lot of use, wear and tear and wood movement.
Check out the gap around the door. I didn't know about mineral oil back then! It would have helped to seal it.










If you look closely you can see knife marks on the inner surface of the door. I found that it makes a very handy surface for preparing a sandwich. It also serves as a cutting board for minor tasks.
It's always there when you need it.










It's now 20 years later and hopefully I have learned a few things to improve it. (No, it won't look like that when you are done!) I will look a lot better!

I am posting this now to allow those that want to work along in this class, a chance to gather your materials.

You want a closed grain wood for the door since you will be using it as a cutting board. Something like maple or ash (I used ash for the box above). Something with an open grain like oak will collect crumbs. I would use the same wood for the 4 long parts.

The following is a parts list:

*All wood is 3/4" thick.*
If you can't get wood wide enough, you can always glue narrower pieces together.

*Top and Back:*
2 pieces 5 1/2" wide x 15" long

*Bottom:*
1 piece 7 3/4" wide x 15" long

*Door:*
1 piece 6 3/4" Wide x 15" long

*Ends*
2 pieces 7 1/2" x 8 1/4" 
The end pieces can be a contrasting wood like walnut.

*Handle*
1 piece for the handle that you can decide on what you want to use.

*Plugs*
1 short piece of 3/8" diameter rod (used to plug and hide the screws)

*Hinges*
2 hinges of your choice. The need to have one leaf 3/4" or less (see picture above. I used a hinge 1" across)

The just some mineral oil to seal the wood.

A 1/4" diameter rod (about 24" long) can come in handy during assembly but not required

That's about it.

Let me know who is interested.

I will start the class in a week or so.

Here is the final project that you are building.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

GaryK said:


> *A Class by GaryK - I finally get off my lazy rear!*
> 
> I have been meaning to do a class for a long time now, but with a 4 year old daughter it's hard to get some time in the shop.
> 
> ...


Hey Gary
Nice of you to help out the the new folks with this project.


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

GaryK said:


> *A Class by GaryK - I finally get off my lazy rear!*
> 
> I have been meaning to do a class for a long time now, but with a 4 year old daughter it's hard to get some time in the shop.
> 
> ...


Ummm. I just stickered a big ole pile of walnut in the shop today. My mother would love this and I wouldn't have to listen to her belly ache the entire time she comes to visit about the bread sitting on the counter.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

GaryK said:


> *A Class by GaryK - I finally get off my lazy rear!*
> 
> I have been meaning to do a class for a long time now, but with a 4 year old daughter it's hard to get some time in the shop.
> 
> ...


I made a bread Box once and it had a Roll Top front. A fun project.

One day I saw a mouse run across the counter and then he disappeared. I closed up the breadbox to keep him/her out.

I came back later and found a hold chewed through the roll top section.

I guess he was inside and wanted out pretty badly.

A great project Gary.


----------



## FunkadelicAlex (Jan 12, 2011)

GaryK said:


> *A Class by GaryK - I finally get off my lazy rear!*
> 
> I have been meaning to do a class for a long time now, but with a 4 year old daughter it's hard to get some time in the shop.
> 
> ...


I can't wait to read the rest. ESPECIALLY the part on the hinges. That seems to give me the most trouble overall.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

GaryK said:


> *A Class by GaryK - I finally get off my lazy rear!*
> 
> I have been meaning to do a class for a long time now, but with a 4 year old daughter it's hard to get some time in the shop.
> 
> ...


*Hey Gary!*

Good to see you! It has been awhile! LOL

A nice change of pace job for you to present to us…

*But butt BUTT* no joint any more complex than a *BUTT Joint!* LOL

*Good tip about sealing the wood as soon as it is done… Mineral Oil being a good choice…*

*And the 20 year test period* is really being very conservative to be sure it lives up to it's design! LOL

A very NICE, Simple,* Entry level project to help our beginners get off with a good project that will be used everyday in the kitchen!* That is a Super Good project!

Thank you for dropping in again… Hope you have been OK getting your batteries charged…

*Any idea of what your next major project will be?
*


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

GaryK said:


> *A Class by GaryK - I finally get off my lazy rear!*
> 
> I have been meaning to do a class for a long time now, but with a 4 year old daughter it's hard to get some time in the shop.
> 
> ...


Hey Joe, ( I always liked that song)

Never fear!
There is nothing but BUTT joints with screws & glue holding things together. It is better design than my old one. You will see.

The next major project: A scratch built Cyclone dust collector.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

GaryK said:


> *A Class by GaryK - I finally get off my lazy rear!*
> 
> I have been meaning to do a class for a long time now, but with a 4 year old daughter it's hard to get some time in the shop.
> 
> ...


Hey Gary, I'm in. 
Or at least paying real close attention.

Steve


----------



## romansfivefive (Jan 26, 2008)

GaryK said:


> *A Class by GaryK - I finally get off my lazy rear!*
> 
> I have been meaning to do a class for a long time now, but with a 4 year old daughter it's hard to get some time in the shop.
> 
> ...


Hi Gary I am not interested in this project, but if you ever do anything with inlays let me know.


----------



## Rustic (Jul 21, 2008)

GaryK said:


> *A Class by GaryK - I finally get off my lazy rear!*
> 
> I have been meaning to do a class for a long time now, but with a 4 year old daughter it's hard to get some time in the shop.
> 
> ...


I'm in


----------



## jackass (Mar 26, 2008)

GaryK said:


> *A Class by GaryK - I finally get off my lazy rear!*
> 
> I have been meaning to do a class for a long time now, but with a 4 year old daughter it's hard to get some time in the shop.
> 
> ...


*As usual Gary, a profound idea and a helpful post. I always enjoy your input. I especially enjoyed your Dining Suite, they don't come any better.
Jack*


----------



## CartersWhittling (Jan 29, 2011)

GaryK said:


> *A Class by GaryK - I finally get off my lazy rear!*
> 
> I have been meaning to do a class for a long time now, but with a 4 year old daughter it's hard to get some time in the shop.
> 
> ...


Nice bread box, perhaps another project to make for my mom some time. A design idea to consider would be a door made like an end grain cutting board so you could use it as one without the wear a face grain door would see?


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

GaryK said:


> *A Class by GaryK - I finally get off my lazy rear!*
> 
> I have been meaning to do a class for a long time now, but with a 4 year old daughter it's hard to get some time in the shop.
> 
> ...


*CartersWhittling* - You could always make the door with end grain, but since is a beginners course I won't go into that.

Besides that, it's really meant for making sandwiches and the most action it will get is to cut one in half. I have been using my old one for about 20 years and it shows no real sign of wear other than scratches. Regular knifes used will at most have a serrated edge. Nothing really sharp.

If you make one I'd really like to see it!


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

*Let's make some saw dust! Cutting the long boards.*

Ok, so here we go.

Remember this is a beginner course so everything will be very basic.
For those more advanced and like the design, just go ahead and make it.

The design is simple. 3 fixed sides and 2 fixed ends with a hinged door. The handle it made the exact height so that the door it is level when opened to use as a small cutting board to prepare sandwiches.

Lets start off with a plan drawing.










All the dimensions are there. The 15" length can be adjusted a little if you want, but it should fit any normal sized loaf of bread.

I started out by cutting all my stock to size. The door should be left a little wider than the 6 3/4" in the drawing. This will be cut to the exact length when it is fit to the box.










Next tilt your table saw blade to 15 degrees. This doesn't need to be exact just get it as close as you can. Now take your (oversized 6 3/4") door piece and cut one long edge at 15 degrees. This is the edge that will be at the top of the box. The other edge will be cut when we fit the door.

Then do the same with your bottom (7 3/4") piece. Try to cut it so that your angel gets as close to the edge as you can. It will be slightly rounded by sanding so it is not critical.










Then you want to change the angle of the blade to 12-13 degrees. Then cut the length of one of your 5 1/2" pieces.
This will be the piece for the top of the box. Just try to cut it so that you angel gets as close to the edge as you can.
What you will end up with is a gap when the door is closed. This way if the piece is the piece is a little long or short, it will still match at the top where it shows.










That's it for this part. If you have any questions just let me know.


----------



## Cozmo35 (Feb 1, 2010)

GaryK said:


> *Let's make some saw dust! Cutting the long boards.*
> 
> Ok, so here we go.
> 
> ...


Gary, now this looks like something I can handle!


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

GaryK said:


> *Let's make some saw dust! Cutting the long boards.*
> 
> Ok, so here we go.
> 
> ...


Gary, this very nice & simple bread box, although so Simple, really is very Very functional… with the cutting board automatically being in position, ready to use, as soon as you have the bread to use!

COOL…

It looks like you're going to wrap it with 1/4" material… (?)

Thank you.


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

GaryK said:


> *Let's make some saw dust! Cutting the long boards.*
> 
> Ok, so here we go.
> 
> ...


Thanks Joe.

The 1/4" is the overlap for the ends.

I added a picture in the first post of the completed project.


----------



## Eagle1 (Jan 4, 2010)

GaryK said:


> *Let's make some saw dust! Cutting the long boards.*
> 
> Ok, so here we go.
> 
> ...


Nice simple box I like it. The only problem that I have is that if it is fresh bread going in it. It would never make it to the box, I would have ate it before it had a chance to get there.. LOL


----------



## sharad (Dec 26, 2007)

GaryK said:


> *Let's make some saw dust! Cutting the long boards.*
> 
> Ok, so here we go.
> 
> ...


Gary, I will be very happy to make this box but I don't have a table saw. Can I do without it?

Sharad


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

GaryK said:


> *Let's make some saw dust! Cutting the long boards.*
> 
> Ok, so here we go.
> 
> ...


You could do it with a hand saw or circular saw. A table saw would just make things faster. 
A plane would work for the angles.

So yes, you could make it without a tablesaw.


----------



## bear2 (Sep 14, 2009)

GaryK said:


> *Let's make some saw dust! Cutting the long boards.*
> 
> Ok, so here we go.
> 
> ...


This project is great. I think that I'll use it to help teach my grandson about woodworking. His mother could use a nice bread box.


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

*Making the end pieces*

Now we will make the end pieces for the breadbox. Start with your *7 1/2" by 8 1/4"* pieces.

They are probably the hardest part of this project so I will break it up into two parts. The first one will be to shape the part.

The first thing you will need to do is to rotate your miter gauge 15 degrees. It doesn't need to be perfect, just get it as close as you can. If your gauge is set square it will be at the 90 Degree mark. 90 - 15 = 75. So when you move it 15 degrees it will be on the 75 mark.

You will want to make a long fence and attach it to your miter gauge. Just a piece of wood long enough to support the stock close to the blade. The fence on my gauge is adjustable but you can do exactly the same thing yourself with your stock gauge. They all have holes or slots to attach a fence. Then you want to use a stop on your miter gauge. 
This will make sure that the part will not move away from the blade as you cut it.










Now make sure that the *8 1/4"* Edge is against the fence. Look at the drawing.

*It is best to draw a line on your part before you cut it to avoid cutting the wrong side.*

You will want to leave 3/4" on the cut. Look at the picture with the dimensions to see what I mean.
Cut it leaving some extra material on it and then move your stop closer and closer until there is 3/4" left on the part.

Here is the part cut.










Next we will create some feet where there were none. Set your blade to 1/8" above the table.










Then set your rip fence to 1 1/2" from the blade. Leaving your long fence from the last step will be a good idea. Don't be afraid to put cuts in it.

If you want to save yourself from doing the next operation twice, clamp your 2 pieces together.

Next stand you part up and make a cut. Then rotate the part and do the same to the other end.










Then more the rip fence out of the way and remove the material between the two cuts little by little.










Here you see all the cuts completed. (notice that the parts are still clamped together. All that is left to do is to clean up the saw cuts. You can use a file, rasp, chisel or sandpaper.










Then using sandpaper, round all the edges. Do it on all edges, inside and out. When you are done it will look something like this.










Here is one part completed.










Next time we will work on all the holes to attach them.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

GaryK said:


> *Making the end pieces*
> 
> Now we will make the end pieces for the breadbox. Start with your *7 1/2" by 8 1/4"* pieces.
> 
> ...


Great Gary. Nice presentation.


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

*Finishing the ends.*

Now lets add the holes to attach the ends. First mark a line 5/8" from the edge of the bottom, back and side.
An easy way to do this is to use a compass.










Using a compass just scribe the line.










You will end up with lines like this.










Then just mark the locations for 3 holes. I started 3/4" from the edge on the bottom and top. (the top was a big mistake so don't use 3/4" for the top) For the top use 1 1/4" from the from edge as shown below. I used 1 1/2" from the edges on the back.










Here you can see the holes I messed up on. I didn't take into account that the hole would screw the door shut. Bummer! I'll show you how I fixed it in another lesson.










I will be using #8 screws 1 1/4" long to attach the ends. I start out by drilling small holes in all the places you marked. You can use 3/32 or 7/64 or 1/8" drill. I use a small drill hole to use it as a guide when I drill through the ends and into the body. This will assure that the holes are lined up exactly. You will see that on another lesson.










At this point we want to make sure that we mark the ends as "Outside" and "inside". Set the pieces as shown below and use some tape to mark the outside, because in the next step we will counter bore the holes with a 3/8" drill as you can see below.










To make sure that we don't drill all the way through the part, we'll make a stop block. Just take a piece of scrap wood and drill a 3/8" hole down the length as shown below.










It should be long enough so that only enough drill bit is sticking out to drill half way through the end pieces. Then fearlessly drill out your holes.










This ends this lesson. Next we will glue up the case.

I guess I have been explaining pretty good since I have had no questions so far.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

GaryK said:


> *Finishing the ends.*
> 
> Now lets add the holes to attach the ends. First mark a line 5/8" from the edge of the bottom, back and side.
> An easy way to do this is to use a compass.
> ...


That's a Real Stop Block! Sure more accurate than blue tape!

It's good to see that even you make mistakes… I'm not the only one… LOL


----------



## Chips (Mar 27, 2008)

GaryK said:


> *Finishing the ends.*
> 
> Now lets add the holes to attach the ends. First mark a line 5/8" from the edge of the bottom, back and side.
> An easy way to do this is to use a compass.
> ...


Great tips. looking forward to the next step.


----------



## sedcokid (Jul 19, 2008)

GaryK said:


> *Finishing the ends.*
> 
> Now lets add the holes to attach the ends. First mark a line 5/8" from the edge of the bottom, back and side.
> An easy way to do this is to use a compass.
> ...


Great tips, I am enjoying your class!!

Thanks for sharing


----------



## Remedyman (May 20, 2012)

GaryK said:


> *Finishing the ends.*
> 
> Now lets add the holes to attach the ends. First mark a line 5/8" from the edge of the bottom, back and side.
> An easy way to do this is to use a compass.
> ...


Really like that stop block idea. I am going to try my hand at building this breadbox over the weekend. We are just getting into homemade bread so this will compliment it well.


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

*Gluing up the sides*

Now for something simple. Gluing up the long sides.

You will need to make a 5 1/2" wide piece out of scrap wood. Maybe a couple of smaller ones. They are used as spacers for the glue up and that's all. This assures that the opening stays at the proper distance while the glue dries.

Since these are long grain to long grain, nothing other that glue is required

The first thing I do is apply glue to both long edges of the (5 1/2") back and clamp it up with the top and bottom. Just make sure that the top piece had the sharp part of the angle toward the bottom piece. Check out the picture in the first installment of this blog if you are unsure.

Here you can see the 5 1/2" board I will use as a spacer off to the right.










Once everything is clamped up I add the spacer in. I found it necessary to loosen the clamps slightly to get it in.










A view from the back.










And one sitting it's normal position.










Next we will attach the ends. That's probably the most difficult part of the entire project.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

GaryK said:


> *Gluing up the sides*
> 
> Now for something simple. Gluing up the long sides.
> 
> ...


Looking good!

Nice lil project…

Thank you.


----------



## dub560 (Jun 4, 2010)

GaryK said:


> *Gluing up the sides*
> 
> Now for something simple. Gluing up the long sides.
> 
> ...


I don't suppose that you could teach a class on building plantation shutters?


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

*Attaching the ends*

Here's what you'll need to attach the ends. I use 1/4" dowels as spacers, but you can use 1/4" thick pieces of wood if you like.










I set the sides on the spacers to keep them 1/4" off the table.










Then using a square and another dowel I space the back the same way. This will create a nice even spacing around the edges. Clamp things together to that they won't more while drilling the holes.










Then I use a smaller 7/64" drill to drill the holes through the ends and into the sides. This is the correct size the the #8 screws we will attach the end with. If you used a 1/8" drill to drill the holes in the ends then go ahead and use it for this.










Drill your holes through the ends and into the sides. Drilling extra deep won't hurt anything.










Now you will have holes perfectly lined up.










Once all the holes are drilled I open up the holes in the ends to 11/64" or 3/16" for clearance for the #8 Screw. This will provide for e very tight joint. Part on the right has the holes opened up to final size.










Now everything is ready to glue together.









.
.

*Now to how I fixed my mistake drilling the hole in the wrong place.*
.
.

First I used a plug cutter to make some plugs out of the same stock ad the ends.










Then just glued the plugs in place. I will sand the smooth later.










That's it for now.

Next we will finish everything but the handle.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

GaryK said:


> *Attaching the ends*
> 
> Here's what you'll need to attach the ends. I use 1/4" dowels as spacers, but you can use 1/4" thick pieces of wood if you like.
> 
> ...


Hey!

That lil bread box is coming right along!

Very nice tutorials!

Thank you very much for taking the time to do it!

Looks like a very nice, functional, and easy-to-build project to fit everyone… beginner - Expert!

COOL….

Just the handle, front, & hinges to go!

Merry Christmas!


----------



## dub560 (Jun 4, 2010)

GaryK said:


> *Attaching the ends*
> 
> Here's what you'll need to attach the ends. I use 1/4" dowels as spacers, but you can use 1/4" thick pieces of wood if you like.
> 
> ...


I don't suppose that you could teach a class on building plantation shutters? Great work by the way


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

*The hinges*

Someone mention not being able to do a good job installing hinges so I hope this helps. I tried to make it as straight forward as I could.

Here are the hinges I used. I just picked them up at Lowes. Also in the picture are some rubber feet I used to keep it in place and from scuffing up the counter top.










I mounted the hinges 1 1/2" from each end.










Then I clamped a small piece of wood to the bottom to give me a good edge to line things up with.










What you want to do is to have the pin in the hinge centered on the edge of the bottom. Using another hinge as a spacer worked for me.










I used a sharp pencil to mark for the holes.










Then I center marked the holes with a awl.










Then drilled a hole for the screws I would be using.










When I put the screws in I leave them loose until all three are in.

Then I tighten them one at a time. If one of the screws make the hinge go crooked then loosen it and use what ever combination of screws that make it straighten up. Usually by adjusting the screws you can put the hinge on nice and straight.

If not leave them loose until you have all 6 screws in and try again using all of them.










Then I just used the package the hinges came in to set the gap for the lid.










Then mark the holes, drill and install like before.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

GaryK said:


> *The hinges*
> 
> Someone mention not being able to do a good job installing hinges so I hope this helps. I tried to make it as straight forward as I could.
> 
> ...


Good to see you back!

What have you been doing?

Thank you.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

GaryK said:


> *The hinges*
> 
> Someone mention not being able to do a good job installing hinges so I hope this helps. I tried to make it as straight forward as I could.
> 
> ...


I hate hinges.
Thanks for taking the time to make it seem relaxed.

Lookin' good,
Steve


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

GaryK said:


> *The hinges*
> 
> Someone mention not being able to do a good job installing hinges so I hope this helps. I tried to make it as straight forward as I could.
> 
> ...


Thanks Gary for the tour. These tips might help a lot of us.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

GaryK said:


> *The hinges*
> 
> Someone mention not being able to do a good job installing hinges so I hope this helps. I tried to make it as straight forward as I could.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Gary!

Hinges always give me a fit.

Lew


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

GaryK said:


> *The hinges*
> 
> Someone mention not being able to do a good job installing hinges so I hope this helps. I tried to make it as straight forward as I could.
> 
> ...


Great info! Thx for taking the time.


----------



## SalvageCraft (Jun 26, 2011)

GaryK said:


> *The hinges*
> 
> Someone mention not being able to do a good job installing hinges so I hope this helps. I tried to make it as straight forward as I could.
> 
> ...


Great tips!


----------



## bear2 (Sep 14, 2009)

GaryK said:


> *The hinges*
> 
> Someone mention not being able to do a good job installing hinges so I hope this helps. I tried to make it as straight forward as I could.
> 
> ...


Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way. This is what I'm best at.


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

*Finishing up*

Now we want to cleanup all the holes we have made. As you can see below I chose a light colored wood. Just poplar dowels I picked up at Lowes. You can use dark colored wood if you don't want a contrast.

First I cut up the dowels.










Then applied some glue to the holes.










And then banged all the plugs in place










You can barley see below the holes that I plugged from my mistake earlier.










You can either use a flush trim saw or just sand the plugs flush with the surface.

To keep the box from sliding around or scratching my counter top I am adding rubber feet. I posted picture of them in the last lesson.

I also use some small nails pictured below.










I put the feet in each corner of the box










Then I drive a nail in each one to make sure it never comes off. I drive the nail about 1/2 way through the feet so that the nail itself won't create a scratch.










At this point your box should look like this.










At this point all you will need is the handle. In the next class I will show you the handle I made, but here is where I want you to use your imagination to come up with something before you see mine.

You will notice that I propped the door up to be level. The dimension from your counter top to the underside of the door will determine the size of your handle. You want the door resting on the handle when it's open to give you a nice level surface to prepare your sandwiches.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

GaryK said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Now we want to cleanup all the holes we have made. As you can see below I chose a light colored wood. Just poplar dowels I picked up at Lowes. You can use dark colored wood if you don't want a contrast.
> 
> ...


Looking better!

I didn't realize it to make use of so many cool techniques…

Thank you.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

GaryK said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Now we want to cleanup all the holes we have made. As you can see below I chose a light colored wood. Just poplar dowels I picked up at Lowes. You can use dark colored wood if you don't want a contrast.
> 
> ...


A real eye opener


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

GaryK said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Now we want to cleanup all the holes we have made. As you can see below I chose a light colored wood. Just poplar dowels I picked up at Lowes. You can use dark colored wood if you don't want a contrast.
> 
> ...


Nice project Gary.


----------



## Kipster (Feb 15, 2008)

GaryK said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Now we want to cleanup all the holes we have made. As you can see below I chose a light colored wood. Just poplar dowels I picked up at Lowes. You can use dark colored wood if you don't want a contrast.
> 
> ...


Very Nice Gary. Keep up the great work

Admiring from a far.


----------

