# Grizzly 1023RLW 10" 3 HP 220V Table Saw



## JesseTutt (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks for the review. I am considering a Grizzly as my next saw. I would love the StopSaw, but I can't seem to afford it.


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## woodmaker (Jan 12, 2011)

Good review, I looked at this saw before I bought the Grizz G0690 two years ago and have not had one regret! 
Okay 1, dust collection could be a whole lot better.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

OK I'm on the other side of the fence, my 690 just came in last week and going through the same set up / difference with our model. I like how my RK/fence is detachable from the top but not to thrill with the insert that came with the saw and nor either with the blade guard, will have to get use to using. I made up a few zci and am now using, much better just hate when cut off fall into the throat plate very unnerving. Now the plus sized of thing the packaging and set up of the saw was truly a blessing. The wing fit like a glove no shimming what so ever, the top was spot on, the fence was parallel to the slots and blade and I set the whole thing up by myself. Directions out of the manual were very easy and spot on. I'm really happy with my choice and I bet your are as well, best wishes with your new saw and a big shot out to Grizzly TS's Model G0690 and G1023….BC


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## ScomelBasses (Dec 6, 2012)

Being that I almost always go through buyers remorse and second guess pretty much every purchase I've ever made, I decided to speak to someone other than a sales rep/customer service person. I just spoke to an actual technical support guy from Grizzly who is a woodworker who seemed to know the saw inside and out as opposed to just reading script straight from a spec sheet. I did not tell him that I already purchased a saw, I just asked which saw is the better and why, the 1023 or the 690. He did not hesitate and said the 1023. He said it is a modern design with a much better, more accurate blade elevation system and has better dust collection. He mentioned several other minor things that I don't recall. He also stated that if he had to choose, no question he'd choose the 1023. I know I may be a bit weird but I feel so much better about my purchase.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Nice to have peace of mind, enjoy your new work mate and stay safe…BC


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## harvey4804 (Jan 21, 2011)

I never thought about moving the fence rail over one hole for rip capacity. It's so blatantly easy I didn't think about it! I think I just might go do that now. I find it easiest to access my riving knife by removing the throat plate and reaching my hand to get to the lever.


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## Ettu (Feb 19, 2013)

Thanks for the review. I've been having a tough time making up my mind which Grizzly saw to buy. I really liked the G1023 but was concerned about the limited rip capacity. You're shifting of the fence solved my problem. Have you encountered any downside to the shift? Thanks for putting me out of my misery. Ed K


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## ScomelBasses (Dec 6, 2012)

Thanks for the comments! Ettu, I have found there to be no negatives to shifting the rail. On this particular fence, the square tube is attached by 4 screws. By shifting it over, the tube is now attached by 3 which is plenty strong enough, especially considering the weight of the fence and tube are supported by the angle iron mounting bracket. Just having the router extension wing and moving the rails gained several inches of capacity but to get the full benifit of the shift an extra extension is needed. This is an extremely easy modification. Checking my rip capacity again, I believe I can safely rip up to 38". That's plenty for me and takes up a lot less room than a 50" plus rail. I'll take no credit for the idea of moving the rail. This came from knotscots great article.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

@Scomel - good choice on your saw. I am loving mine. Like you I am not crazy about the blade guard. I have never used a saw with a guard so it is kinda scary for me. I feel a lot more comfortable with just the riving knife in position.

Now go get a start/stop switch like I did and mount it on the right front support leg and you will be good to go. Works great, just like the saws switch.
Mike


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## BoardSMITH (Mar 15, 2012)

I have both the 690 for 2 years and 1023 for 1 year now. Both work well. The 690 does have blade elevation issues with saw dust clogging the gears but that is minor. Both have adequate power and both look to be fairly well made. The riving knife on the 690 is easy to remove and adjust but I wasn't to thrilled with the guard. The fence on the 690 was poor at best so I replaced it with a Delta Uni-Fence which fit perfectly. To install/remove the guard on the 1023 you need to be a bit of a contortonist to reach the clamp and remove the guard. That is somewhat minor. The dust collection on the bottom of the 1023 cabinet gets clogged easily and the shroud around the lower portion of the blade clogs quicker. I removed the shroud and opened up the dust collection opening which made it work so much better. I actually had the blade guard fly out of its clamp during a kick back. Grizzly did finally agree to replace the guard and replaced the 20ct Forrest rip blade I was using.

Otherwise I like both saws. The 690 is for crosscuts only and the 1023 is a dedicated rip saw. Since I cut 8/4 stock primarily I can say that both can handle the load.


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## ScomelBasses (Dec 6, 2012)

Today I was switching back and forth a lot from splitter/guard and riving knife on a project. I don't know what the hell I was doing before but I was easily able to remove both from above the saw. I think I was reaching from the back of the saw before, now I have an outfeed table and have to reach from the front. Can't believe I hadn't tried it this way before, it's super easy. Trust me guys, I'm really not stupid, no matter what my prior posts suggest


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Awesome review with great documentation of your experience. I love seeing solid objective reviews that talk about both strengths and weaknesses of a tool….it's way too easy to let new tool love put an overly zealous spin on things. Excellent job all the way around!


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## ScomelBasses (Dec 6, 2012)

Thanks, Scott!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

Nice write up… thanks for taking the time


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## Gittyup (Jan 16, 2013)

I just got this same saw two days ago. I got it set up and checked out. Parallelism was dead on for both fence and blade right out of the box. Could not detect any run-out with my dial gauge. Everything was just about perfect except the vertical stop was 0.005 out. I adjusted it to 0.002 and call it good as I'm not sure the supplied blade is flatter than that. Will readjust when I get my Freud blade. I haven't cut much yet. But seems like it's going to be a heck of saw.

I am having one problem. When I lower the blade the kickback paws dig into the table and hold back/stress the blade guard. Is this normal? Do I have to raise the paws before lowering the blade?

Also, the vacuum shroud around the blade may turn out to be a PITA. While assembling, I dropped a screwdriver down in it. Had to take the hose out completely to get it out. Then I dropped the blade nut in it too. Luckily it rolled all the way out.

Has anyone made a zero clearance insert that let's you use the blade guard?


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## ScomelBasses (Dec 6, 2012)

Gittyup, I've made a zero clearance out of MDF that allows the use of the guard/riving knife. It was very simple. I used the supplied insert as a template and cut it out with my band saw and router.


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## ThomasJames (Oct 30, 2014)

Can you say a little more about how the wooden extension table is actually attached to the saw? I recently bought the same saw but I do not see a way to support a similar extension table without drilling the saw for screw holes. I'm willing to drill it, but I was just curious if you can up with another solution. Thanks.


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## ScomelBasses (Dec 6, 2012)

I drilled three holes into the extension wing and bolted it that way. I don't have the saw anymore but I think I also bolted it to the rails, as well. It was extremely easy to do, the cast iron drills easily. The wooden extension proved to be a very useful addition.


> Can you say a little more about how the wooden extension table is actually attached to the saw? I recently bought the same saw but I do not see a way to support a similar extension table without drilling the saw for screw holes. I m willing to drill it, but I was just curious if you can up with another solution. Thanks.
> 
> - ThomasJames


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## ideal2545 (Apr 29, 2015)

I'm about to get this tomorrow but have to build it and put it on the mobile base alone. Did you completely build the mobile base and then lower it? I'm trying to figure out how you woulda done it with a 2×4


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## ScomelBasses (Dec 6, 2012)

It's been a while since when I put that saw together but I'm pretty sure that I completely assembled the mobile base. Then, with the saw still on the pallet, I took a 2×4 and used it as leverage to lower the saw onto the base, sliding it off of the pallet. It wasn't hard at all. Great saw, by the way!


> I m about to get this tomorrow but have to build it and put it on the mobile base alone. Did you completely build the mobile base and then lower it? I m trying to figure out how you woulda done it with a 2×4
> 
> - ideal2545


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

It took three of us to lift it and wrastle it on to the mobile base.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Thnx for this update. I've been considering the purchase of this saw.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

> Thnx for this update. I ve been considering the purchase of this saw.
> 
> - Roger


Roger - I haven't had any problems with this saw.


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