# Draw knife of your Dreams



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

This is a thread to share draw knife related information. Please post photos of your draw knives. I will try to pull mine out and post photos of them.










Photo from: http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?18080-Buying-a-draw-shave


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## Tugboater78 (May 26, 2012)

I dream of having a drawknife..

This reminds me of a robert jordan book. "Knife of Dreams"


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

Here is my oddball assortment.




























The only 1 marked is the big one in the last pic. BUHL SONS CO

All from flea market or yard sale. I haven't yet found the right job for the first one pictured. Mainly, I put a piece of firewood between lathe centers, and use a drawknife to remove bark or start the rough shaping. I have used the small one when making spoons.

I didn't measure blades, but I did measure handles. 21" for the first pic going down to 7" for the last pic. The last 2 were missing handles when I got them.


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## upchuck (Nov 3, 2013)

WayneC-
Another good forum idea. I have several and I want more (want not need). I've found a few links over the years that have helped me restore the ones I have into usable tools. I'll write more about my rehabbing of these tools later but here are a few links I've found helpful.

Mike Dunbar is a chair maker and highly knowledgeable about old tools. 
https://books.google.com/books?id=vvYDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA42&lpg=PA42&dq=selecting+and+using+drawknives&source=bl&ots=vxaeHg_zNO&sig=PC_FbK3i_LqzmGwSwSwZoLNEr8g&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CCsQ6AEwAmoVChMIkb3n8a_sxgIVwZmACh3tHADb#v=onepage&q=selecting%20and%20using%20drawknives&f=false

Bob Smalser seems to really know his stuff. I've learned a lot from reading his information on this site.
http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/bSmalser/drKnife/drKnife1.asp

Curtis Buchanan's videos are detailed and complete. His use of a grinder speeds up the rehab of flea market finds. 









There is a lot of information about the use of this tool on the internet.
chuck


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

Justin I've gotten a few for $5, I take it no such luck finding one?

hairy, that first one sure is an oddball, what is it, a blade bolted to a bar basically?

Thanks for the links, Chuck.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

> hairy, that first one sure is an oddball, what is it, a blade bolted to a bar basically?
> 
> - Tim


 That is just about what it is. If it's not a drawknife then I don't know what is. It is easy to sharpen.


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## upchuck (Nov 3, 2013)

*hairy-*
I, too, noticed that "...blade bolted to a bar…" And I agree that it is a strange duck. But in the world of draw knives I've seen several that go quack. What I noticed about that one the most though was the handles. Those look like file handles. And file handles would work well for that purpose on that knife. I see an occasional 
ebay listing for a "Lutz draw knife". Lutz makes a pretty good file handle. And because files are generally used with a push stroke and file tangs are tapered using a file or rasp tends to tighten the handle. Because draw knives are generally used with a pulling motion and the draw knife tangs are also tapered a file handle is the wrong way to go. The end result could propel a user hard and fast to the rear when the tapered tang separates from the handle. I don't want to go flying around a work area trying to break my fall while holding several inches of sharp steel in one hand. But for a tool like yours pulling on the side of a file handle should not pose an eminent hazard. The curved draw knife (bottom second photo) is the one of yours I like best.
Another draw knife link:
http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/pScott/drawKnife/drawKnife-01.asp
chuck

*WayneC-*
Is it draw knife or drawknife? and…
Are scorps allow in too?


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Two drawknives, a TH Witherby (top) and a Dunlap (bottom)


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

> *WayneC-*
> Is it draw knife or drawknife? and…
> Are scorps allow in too?
> 
> - upchuck


I'm not the grammar police… lol

Scorps are most definitely allowed.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

A scorp is just a badly bent drawknife.

The edge of this scorp makes a 120 degree sector of a circle with radius 1.5 inches. (Draw a circle with radius 1.5 and divide into thirds.) So about 4 inches straight line across from edge tip to edge tip. Tangs are about 4.5 inches apart. Tangs go all the way through the handles and are bent over securing them to the handle. Maker is unknown.





































(The last photo was after a cleaning of the handles and an application of BLO+Mineral Spirits+Wax.)


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## upchuck (Nov 3, 2013)

> A scorp is just a badly bent drawknife.
> - Combo Prof


Or in your case a well bent draw knife. I like this tool a lot. Good find. Thanks for the pictures.
chuck


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

What is the most efficient way to sharpen a scorp?


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## upchuck (Nov 3, 2013)

> What is the most efficient way to sharpen a scorp?
> 
> - WayneC


Curtis Buchanan again: 



I believe that Leonard Lee in his book, The Complete Guide to Sharpening , has a few paragraphs about sharpening scorps using sanding drums and other power tools.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

I think if I am not mistaken, I think I saw Underhill hold one handle in his left hand with the blade up and pressing the other handle against his chest. Then with stone in his right hand he drew it across the edge. But I see others clamp a handle in a vise and draw he stone over the edge. Or hold it against a grinding wheel.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

Another oddball? Straight scorp? I thought a scorp was a scooping tool. Straight blade 4 and 1/2" It had 1 handle when I got it . Yard sale , maybe $2.


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## upchuck (Nov 3, 2013)

> Another oddball? Straight scorp? I thought a scorp was a scooping tool. Straight blade 4 and 1/2" It had 1 handle when I got it . Yard sale , maybe $2.
> - hairy


hairy-
I don't know what that scorp might used for but if I'd seen it for two bucks it would have followed me home too.
chuck


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

From North Bay Forge I read:
The Round Scorp is the big wood remover. It is the scorp I recommend getting first. The Flat Bottom Scorp is not for removing a lot of material. It is for removing tool marks left from the more aggressive hollowing that the Round Scorp leaves. The Flat Bottom Scorp is also amazingly good for fairing large convex surfaces because the handle is not in the way.


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## upchuck (Nov 3, 2013)

Thank you Combo Prof & hairy-
Mine is sorta like both hairy's and yours.
The first photo shows the country of origin, the maker's mark (A boar's head?), and the bevel on the outside of the curve. I haven't done much to clean or fettle this tool. It was in pretty good shape from the beginning. I have no idea how old mine is. 








Photo #2 is of the over all curve of the blade. This is the part that is a blend of hairy's and Combo Prof's. Curved at the corners and straighter (but not straight) across the center.








Photo #3 shows the tool from a users point of view.








Photo #4 was included to show what in my opinion is an okay method of securing the handles to the tangs. I popped off the cover that hid the bent over tang on the right end. That end of the tang seems puny to me and it does not fill me with confidence like a proper draw knife cap with the thick through tang peened on. But it is better than file handles. The old farts (post #7 above) is a great example of a secure way of doing it. And the link in post #6 shows the most secure method I've ever seen but that methods far exceeds my abilities and tools.








I haven't used my scorp. It is the only one I've ever seen in the wild. For $5 i scooped it up. So I can't give a performance review. I do note though that mine has the bevel on the outside of the blade. Hairy's seems to have some bevel on both the inside and outside of his scorp. And it is not clear to me how Combo Prof's is sharpened. It's been fun for me to look and compare these three similar yet different tools. From this pair of shoes I trade Combo Prof's for mine in a minute.


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

> From North Bay Forge I read:
> The Round Scorp is the big wood remover. It is the scorp I recommend getting first. The Flat Bottom Scorp is not for removing a lot of material. It is for removing tool marks left from the more aggressive hollowing that the Round Scorp leaves. The Flat Bottom Scorp is also amazingly good for fairing large convex surfaces because the handle is not in the way.
> 
> - Combo Prof


Very interesting. That does make sense, but looking at the blade angle vs the handles, hairy's looks like it would be uncomfortable on the wrists compare to pulling straight with a nice drawknife or scorp like Chuck's.

I missed out on a scorp this weekend at the auction. It went for $40 or so and didn't have quite the bowl or chair seat profile I was looking for. Need to find another.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

Hera are the three draw knives I have in order of size 9,8,7 from top to bottom.










Handle ends:










There are no maker marks on the Size 9 with folding handles. There are slots cut in the handles to receive the blades when folded. I got this last year for $8 at a garage sale.

Here are the maker marks for the Size 8. It came out of my grandmothers house, where I lived from age 3 to age 11. I shaped a missing side handle for a breast drill with it most recently.










Here are the make marks for the Size 7. It was in the same tool chest I got this summer for $120 that contained the scorp, the complete Stanley 46, the complete craftsman "45 clone" and the complete craftsman "48 clone" among other stuff that I have not shown off yet. It is just as likely it was used for skinning deer and beaver as for shaving wood. Although I have treated the handles they are still too greasy and a bit loose for my tastes. I'll eventually make it good.


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

My Witherby with adjustable handles, I consider it a precision tool, with a lot of uses.


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

I might have to get one. A very useful tool.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

For what it's worth, Wayne:










the short one is a "Bushman Professional." a name known to a few LJs.

One is stamped 'xxGault', possibly Legalt, difficult to read, even harder to get a good photo.

The other has a logo stamped on, in a 5/8" circle, a hand holding a hammer and "xxxxx Tools".

I usually pass over drawknives, they're either in tough condition, badly sharpened, or crazy expensive. These

three each set me back $10 each or less, and can be quickly whipped up to user status as required.


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

Nothing special in mine but they are quite fun to use. I shaped a new handle for my slick and it was nice to use.










First is a Fulton and it's the one I use the most because I had it first and cleaned it up the best.

Second is a very well used folding drawknife that's pretty sharp but has a wavy bevel and the maker mark is very faint but looks like Wilkinson&Co and it might be AJ Wilkinson & Co that there are a lot of google results for the July 16, 1895 patent date is has on it.

Next is one with a funny name like Bumblebee or something on it. Solid handles and will make a good user.

Last is one with handles that need replacing. They are loose and dry rotted a bit.


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## leatherstocking (Jul 9, 2015)

Maybe more of a scraper? Ever tried to use it?


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

A recent acquisition. I believe it's a cooper's draw knife? I haven't found a maker's mark yet.










Anyone got more info?


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## upchuck (Nov 3, 2013)

Candy-
In the linked YouTube video at 2:35 or so the Irish cooper holds up a tool similar to yours. He briefly shows how it is used and calls it a "crum" knife. I've spent a predawn hour or so watching barrel making videos. This trade used several typical and singular draw knife like tools in the making of barrels.




I'm thinking that the different directions the handles point on cooper's tools was for access to the inside of a barrel where the restricted space would require one handle to be inline with the blade. Yours is a cool tool.
chuck


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Thanks Chuck, that's what I'd read. I've been searching the video's as well without a sighting of this particular tool. It is really heavy. I found a pic of one that looks almost identical to it labeled as a Cooper's Jigger Knife or Chamfer Draw Knife here.
Lots of other hand tools used in this barrel making video I thought was pretty interesting.


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## upchuck (Nov 3, 2013)

Candy-
I put "crum" knife in quotation marks because the cooper had an Irish accent and I was pre-coffee. It doesn't surprise me that even after few hearings I may have missed the exact right name. It also makes sense that old tools had a few different names. Your linked video was one of the ones I watched yesterday. It was the best of the ones I saw. I didn't include it in the response to your questions because I didn't see your knife in that video.
chuck


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

Top, a homebuilt unit, no ideas beyond that, below is a "__BBBARD HWWCC, Middletowm Conn" knife.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

> A recent acquisition. I believe it s a cooper s draw knife? I haven t found a maker s mark yet.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I saw several of these in the Antique Malls I visited on my recent trip. The were labeled as draw knives.


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## upchuck (Nov 3, 2013)

I have seven draw knives and the scorp I pictured earlier. But there is one I just can't find I have no idea where it might be hidden. Here are the two that are ready to go to work. These are the range of sizes I have. The top one is 10" of blade and the bottom one is 6".








The top one is Winstead Edge Tool Works which I think has some relationship to Whitherby but the current state of my brain can't recall just what. The lower one is a Greenlee.








As I was looking at my knives since this topic got started I noticed that all of my knives have an almost totally straight back across the top of the blade as can be seen in the top photo. Also the blades have almost no curve across their length. This last photo shows the straightness across their length. 








I'd like to try out some of the other variations with more curved forms. Hell I just like draw knives and I'd like to try them all. Maybe except those with folding/adjustable handles. Although the one unbob pictured in post #20 has some appeal. That one seems to adjust the angle of cut/attack rather than adjust the handles to protect the blade/user from each other.


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## john2005 (Jun 8, 2012)

I have a couple, but this is my favoite























































You just pull that little lever that looks like a screw and they open to two different positions or close.


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## Tugboater78 (May 26, 2012)

I have found quite a few in the wild here and there, but all in rough shape and priced no less than $40 a piece, so i reckon they will all end up as wall ornaments.


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## DTOLAR (Aug 7, 2015)

A lot of these look like fleshing knives to me, especially that little short straight one Hairy posted. They're used to clean up animal hides before you tan them


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

> A lot of these look like fleshing knives to me, especially that little short straight one Hairy posted. They re used to clean up animal hides before you tan them
> 
> - DTOLAR


How does one tell the difference?


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## upchuck (Nov 3, 2013)

I was stumbling around on the internet this morning and found this again:
http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/drawknive.htm
Some may find it interesting.
Also by the same author is this link about the serious rehabilitation of a draw knife:
http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/pScott/drawKnife/drawKnife-01.asp
Good morning
chuck


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

Very cool links Chuck. One thing I found interesting was in the first one he gives a quick way to make the domed washers by cutting a ring off a pipe to place the disc over and peening the center in, and the second link he gives a more serious method. Great info, thanks.


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## upchuck (Nov 3, 2013)

Tim-
I have a couple of draw knives that are all ready to have replacement handles fixed to the blades except for the domed washers. I've not been happy with my attempts at making these washers. One is a $1.00 7" P.S. & W. that was horribly abused. I used rasps and files to make the maple handles. I used a couple of pieces of .50 caliber ammo brass for the upper handle/blade connection. I like the way that that worked out. But cutting the brass sheet into circles, doming it then drilling the holes has eluded me so far. I've thought about starting with engine freeze plugs but I haven't found any that are suitable yet. 
The other one I've taken my first attempt with a lathe (beech) and selected the best two of 5 or 6 handles and used copper pipe caps to fit the handle/blade connection but again the copper sheet to domed washers has resulted in a misused tool in need of repair and no successful washers. I'll figure it out eventually.
chuck


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

I have at least one draw knife that needs new handles and is missing one of the domes. I went to the local metal surplus place and they didn't have any brass sheet so I'll have to check back. I don't know what kind of hole saw would cut brass, but I don't have a drill press anyway. To making the circle I'd need to hacksaw a square then cut the corners off and then file it round.

Which method did you try to make the dome for them? I'm guessing you don't have a dome punch. A ball peen hammer head of the right size could work for that but you'd still need something for the other side. I'll try peening first before going crazy.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Tim, you can use a 5 pound block of pure lead as the other half to make a dome with a ball peen hammer. Set the brass on it, start pounding and when you reach the desired dome, put in the second piece, and repeat. If the lead is misshapen, turn it over and do as done on the first one. The block of lead will be large enough to use at least 3 places on it before you need to turn it over if you plan it right. It won't be nearly as good as the proper dapping dies and punches, but will get the job done.. .............. Jerry (in Tucson)


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Seems to be a common malady, to have one missing domed washer. My first draw knife was(is) missing one. I was told a fender washer would work for a replacement. Haven't tried it yet. 
Jerry, where would one obtain a 5# block of pure lead?


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Posting to get to the bottom of things..

Yard sale finds









There are a couple knives, trying to hide…got them cleaned up a bit…









Found a handle for the smaller one…









The bigger one is curved a bit. There is a "10" cast into it. Looks like some other squiggles after that. 
The other is about 8" wide, and is dead flat, and straight. It has an "EasyCut" Made in USA stamped into it. It got the new handle.

Not sure what exactly I have here. Cost me about $11 today at a yard sale….


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## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

Am getting interested in a scorp, or curved draw knife. They are quite pricey, so I began to think of simply bending a $20 straight draw knife. Then I began to wonder which side does the bevel go? I use my straight draw knife bevel down to control the depth of cut better. With the scorp it's not a matter of just flipping it over…so which side does the bevel go on the scorp? I see pictures of them with bevels on inside and some with bevels on outside. One person actually sharpens both sides like a kitchen knife. ??? Is there a standard?

DanK


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

Depends if you want an in-shave or out-shave. But I think the bevel on the outside is the prefered and certainly the easier to sharpen.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

I think this thread needs kick starting again, so here are my drawknives. I'm a big fan of drawknives and I think they are one of the most fun tools to use on wood. I hate restoring vintage finds though as they are often a lot of work to do properly.

Robert Sorby 11" with slightly curved cutting edge. I use this one bevel down when I want to remove a lot of wood quickly.



















W. Marples & Sons 10" with curved edge. Unfortunately someone went at the bevel with a bench grinder which is going to be a lot of work to put right. It will be worth it though as it hasn't seen a lot of use and the back of the blade is nice and flat.



















Rubino Netro 6" slightly concave edge with dropped handles.



















Pfeil 4" straight edge with splayed handles.



















W. Marples & Sons 10" very slightly curved edge with egg-shaped handles. This is my current favourite. I don't know why nobody is making drawknives with egg-shaped handles today as they are by far the most comfortable and functional in my opinion. I don't think this handle design ever made it to the USA which is a pity because I really recommend it if you ever get the chance to grab one.



















Because I liked the previous one so much, I've just purchased the following drawknife which is stamped J. Frost Norwich, although I suspect it was made by Marples and just stamped with J. Frost. This one is 8" and is sure to be the one I reach for most after I get it sharpened.

Seller's pics.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

> I hate restoring vintage finds though as they are often a lot of work to do properly.
> 
> - Brit


 Tell me about it. The ones I find here have often been used to skin deer, bear, raccoon, otter, and god knows what.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

It's been a few years. This thread sure is ugly on a phone. Is there any way to fix it?


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## Bearcontrare (Oct 6, 2020)

Just saw this thread, so playing a bit of catch-up. Hafta get my few knives out and photographed.
One thing I see in reading previous posts was picture and discussion of what was described as a "straight scorp". Not quite. It's a BOX SCRAPER.
When products were sold on wooden boxes, one used this device to scrap off the painted lettering and the box could be re labeled and reused.


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