# Furniture from construction grade lumber..?



## opalko (Feb 2, 2010)

Looking for pictures of table styles recently I came across this site:

http://ana-white.com/2009/12/plans-farmhouse-table-knock-off-of.html

Apparently the site has inspired a number of women (& men too: http://honeysucklehigh.blogspot.com/2011/02/labor-of-love.html ) to make their own furniture.

I wonder what the general take on it here is. Is it woodworking? What about using construction grade lumber for projects? Seems risky?

Cheers


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

Of coarse its woodworking. I checked the links out and I think those tables look really neat. Construction grade lumber is not the most attractive choice for furniture but in this case these people have made it look rather nice.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Yes it is woodworking. Why do you ask if it is risky? I use construction grade lumber for many of my projects; even furniture. I'm not a fine furniture maker, so it really doesn't matter what wood I use. In fact it's more of a challenge to make something from a lowly 2×4. Once it's painted, no one will know. Construction grade lumber can have some interesting grain patterns that once finished with varnish can be quite attractive.
Why do we use hardwoods in the first place, given their high cost? Because of grain and color. This is a valid reason as long as the finish is clear; but if a project is painted, any softwood will fit the bill.


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

I use construction grade pine a lot. I love to make anitque looking pieces and theres nothing better than construction grade with all the knots etc. The country cabinet and wood box in my gallery was made from construction grade pine.


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## reimer (Jun 8, 2011)

My daughter bought a house recently but has very little furniture and my son is living in an unfurnished house with a couple other guys at college. They both needed some furniture so I have adapted several of the designs from Anna White. I have made beds, tables, entertainment centers, etc. for them and it hasn't cost an arm and a leg. I am working with wood so to me it is wood working. It's not fine furniture, but it serves the purpose and helps the kids get started.


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## jerkylips (May 13, 2011)

this is just a guess, but are you thinking that it's risky in terms of chemically treated wood? If so, pressure treated & construction grade are two different things. construction lumber isn't necessarily treated with chemicals..


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## willd (Mar 9, 2011)

I think it's great, that's how most people get started in woodworking.Once you build a few projects and get the confidence you start looking at the options. Tools and materials.Its a great feeling when you find out that the construction grade lumber you were using is harder to work with the the nicer lumber.


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## opalko (Feb 2, 2010)

Sorry, I didn't mean to imply it was not woodworking - I think all of the tables look great. What I meant by "risky" was whether the wood is dry enough for making furniture. Also - wouldn't pine/spruce/fir be rather soft for a tabletop?


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

The wood is all kiln dried. Some say you should let it adapt to the temp in your shop for a little bit before using but I don't know how important that is.

As far as being soft for a table top I would say if its strong enough to build a deck out of where its being walked on by many people then its strong enough for a table top. A lot of guys use pine for their work bench tops.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Lots if table tops are made with soft woods. Over time, they develop what we call "character."

Hardwoods are certainly better from a durability standpoint, but it's not like you couldn't scratch them either. In fact, anything with a film finish can look pretty nasty when damaged.

A good film finish can provide nice protection against everyday wear, but it's the accidents that can damage a table…and when those happen, you've got a problem. Not so with something like unfinished pine. The great thing about a pine table top (with just wax) is that if you do want to refinish it, it's a slam dunk. Honestly, I think this has more value than my varnished oak dining table…it needs refinishing and I'm not looking forward to it.

As for construction lumber, I think it's an untapped resource for many of us. It's cheap and can still be milled down to whatever dimension you need. Once you saw off the rounded corners, a 2×4 can look pretty darn good. As far as moisture content, I've never measured it, but I've never gotten something that was in the least bit green. Just make sure you are picky about the boards you choose.


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## reggiek (Jun 12, 2009)

Construction grade wood can be very tastefully used in building furniture….basically it is just softwood cut to a few simple sizes….2X4, 2X6…etc. I use it alot for doing prototypes….it is also great for outdoor funiture and flatwork. It is inexpensive (compared to hardwoods) and very forgiving…great for beginners to work with….especially ones without milling tools like a planer or jointer. The only down side is the softness (easy to dent or ding), the sap content (most construction grades are pine with can have significant pockets of sap), and the knots - which can make the piece unstable or hard to drill/cut.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I have used 'construction grade' lumber in quite a few furniture projects, both for the shop in inside the house.

The 2×10 and 2×12 stock my local Menards carries is kiln-dried Douglas Fir. I buy 2×12's, rip them to the rough width I want, then joint/plane them to finished size. Works like a charm, and if I choose carefully while I am rummaging around in the lumber rack, I get pretty decent looking stock and a decent result.

I stay away from their 2×4's, 2×6's, and 2×8's … they are spruce or hemlock and don't mill as well as the Douglas Fir does.

-Gerry


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## opalko (Feb 2, 2010)

This brings up an interesting question I've always wondered: is there a way to identify spruce vs. pine vs. fir when eyeballing a stack? Most of the time I just see "SPF" stamped on the side of boards.


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

Being new to woodworking I often times reach for construction grade materials, finding that with a little bit of work you can make them quite nice. I am currently doing a big renovation job for work and have found that many of the old boards have quite a bit of character compared to the newer SPF or many finer lumbers that I see. Most of what I find it comes down to is finding things that have a good character to them, but still be free of defects (hate when you start machining something and a knot falls out of your board.

I recently found a set of books all based on furniture and home furnishings built entirely from construction grade lumber. I think the authors were Henderson and Baldwin. I picked like five of them off of Half.com for less than $15. I haven't had a chance to build anything out of these books yet, but I can't wait to do so since I really enjoy putting a hundred dollar shine on a three dollar pair of boots.


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## SCR0LL3R (May 28, 2010)

I am lucky in that I have access to a great sawmill that doesn't advertise to the public but will sell to anybody. I get birch, maple, oak, and ash for cheaper than I can get SPF anywhere around here. Oftentimes they don't even bother to sort out the curly stock and I get it for the same price… Even if they do sort it out, curly is only ~$3/BF. Last time I went I got curly birch and EXTREMELY CURLY maple, prime grade fiddleback maple for $2.10/BF. I ain't using no pine


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## rum (Apr 28, 2011)

Keith - nice stealth gloat 

I do find that the local construction grade stuff is more apt to move than nicer pieces. Some of it is "kiln dried" but still so wet its pretty heavy, and will warp pretty badly. With a little picking around though you can find enough to make some decent pieces. I agree its (mostly - heh) not heirloom quality, but a nice pine/doug fir cabinet is still very nice (personally i actually prefer the pine to the doug fir, it seems to split less and I generally like the appearance more - granted the doug fir is "cleaner" looking so ymmv).


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Sometimes using kiln dried construction pine is the only I can
come to agreement with a client on price of custom piece.

I have a glue press so I can joint and glue up junk pine and make
knotty pine furniture. I think the wood is semi-junk, but it can
still be used to make some acceptable furniture pieces at 
economical prices…. entry-level custom work for new clients.


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## fge (Sep 8, 2008)

I dont often have need to cut construction grade wood, just work with hardwoods mainly.

But from time to time i will say that i have had needee to rip a 2*4 or 1*4 or 2*6 and that stuff can develop a twist so as to make ripping or dimensioning down right nerve racking. Some of my scariest ripping exp come from ripping construcrion grade wood.

I would not recommend a beginner start out trying to cut and dimension that type of unstable lumber as it is very dangerous for the inexp person.

It is all fun and games and all the money saved til someone looses a finger or gets a kick in the gut or groin from a ts kick back.


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

at the end of the day

we all have needs to an end

construction grade material in the right hands is worth more then sweet wood in the hands a fool


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

nice link

thx


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## Domer (Mar 8, 2009)

Sam Maloof started making furniture from used pallets. He did pretty good stuff.

Domer


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## fussy (Jan 18, 2010)

Construction lumber is just fine; just take care when choosing your boards. I built a colonial trestle desk of construction lumber purchased at Furrows in Ft. Wayne, hauled home in a '72 Vega Hatchback finished it with maple stain and polyurethane in a unheated garage with minimal tools and minimal understanding of what I was doing. Still use it almost daily today; looks a little frayed-cats, cats, cats-but is still useful, solid and approved for display in the front room. Go for it, treat it like wood and enjoy.

Steve


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

Const. grade lumber is 'just another species'.  I use it all the time, especially since I got a planer.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

Thanks, opal; I'm going to show my daughter and her fiance this site. They are trying to become do it your selfers and he is real good with his hands but doesn't have an abundance of tools. He live just down the street from my shop.


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## Maveric777 (Dec 23, 2009)

Cool discussion and links…. Enjoyed the read….


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## gillyd (Feb 26, 2011)

Use construction grade lumber all the time, once planed and jointed it looks pretty decent. As mentioned before, just watch what you pick out. I also prefer Ripping 2×12's. I have noticed that this kind of lumber does tend to split easier, so be advised.


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## opalko (Feb 2, 2010)

Again, I'll ask:

is there a visual test to determine Spruce vs. Pine vs. Fir on the 2x aisle?


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Twenty five years ago I was a carpentry foreman on a house remodel, during the job, using 2×4's I built a pencil post bed that I still share with my beautiful wife!


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

opalko-Not sure I can tell the difference. I generally just avoid anything marked SPF … I have only seen SPF on 2×4, 2×6, and 2×8 stock. The kiln-dried 2×12 (which is what I prefer) is Douglas Fir at my local store. Their 2×10 stock is sometimes a mix of Douglas Fir and Hemlock Fir.

-Gerry


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

The kiln dried 2x material often has stamps on it and you can
sometimes take a guess from the stamp… usually in California
the boards are marked "DF" "Hem" for douglas fir, hemlock, and
so on. These woods are quite similar in working characteristics.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

@The Dane…you're lucky to have a Menards. All I have in this catagory is BORG and Lowes :-(.

Once you sit down does your butt know whether it's pine or mahogany? I use both and never had any problems.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Douglas Fir (which, ironically, is neither a true fir, nor pine, nor spruce but is a distinct species of its own) has pronounced growth rings that, by the time it comes out of the kiln and makes it to the lumber rack at the big box is a brownish-grey. Douglas Fir is also moderately resistant to rot.

Hemlock Fir doesn't have the pronounced growth rings that Douglas Fir has, and oxidizes to a light tan.

In terms of strength, Hemlock Fir is only slightly less strong than Douglas Fir, and is less rot resistant.

-Gerry


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## opalko (Feb 2, 2010)

All this being said, I am trying to get a dining table built in short order and my hardwood sources have dried up. I am very pressed for time and may have to consider a softwood "construction" grade material.

Would you use the same woodworking techniques - glued up (table) top, mortise & tenon apron/leg joinery with these type materials?

Thanks again.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Hey, man.

If it's wood, build something nice out of it, and post the pictures when you're done.

You seen some of the junk pallets that LumberJocks have turned into beautiful pieces ??

Go for it !!!


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

You can use it, but you have to fatten-up your joints and frame members.

I'd say as a rule of thumb where you could use 3/4" hardwood, you'd
want to go to 1" or thicker in softwood for all furniture parts. Even
table aprons should be thicker.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Loren is right … you can get away with 3/4" stock on some stuff (e.g. cabinet door frames), but it won't have the strength you get with thicker stock. That's why pieces built with construction grade lumber typically look bulkier … they are.

-Gerry


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

Okay I'll bite. I use / have used construction grade stock for furnishings. But then again, I tend toward a very rustic style anyway, the more tight knots the better it sometimes seems…

I can't say a word about Spruce because I wouldn't know it if it bit me in the (donkey). However, at least down here, Southern Yellow pine is well named as it has a very distinct yellow hue to it. The examples of fir I have seen are much whiter in color. Kiln drying versus green makes a LOT of difference when using for anything beyond framing a fence. And even then there is a bit of difference… Take your moisture meter, and ignore the stares of the kids working the lumber dept at the BORG… Get straight, dry lumber. If you have to spring extra for kiln dried, do it. You won't regret it.

I have used "construction grade" stock of the following types in my projects…

Southern Yellow Pine (it's what we have here).
Pressure treated pine. No clue what species.
Cedar.

PT and Cedar almost exclusively on outdoor projects…

If you can, get your stock as wide as possible, 2×10 or 2×12 would be best. Those seem to warp / twist less once you rip them. Like others have mentioned, be careful to seal the ends if you get wet stuff, they can split / end check pretty badly while air drying.


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## jerkylips (May 13, 2011)

I have to ask…what the <bleep> is BORG? I see references all the time & I have no idea what you guys are talking about..


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

I think it's Big Old/Orange Retail Giant, or something like that.

Basically, Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, Orchard, etc.


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## darinS (Jul 20, 2010)

*B*ig
*O*range 
*R*etail
*G*iant

Used to be standing for Home Depot, but has now come to mean just about any big retail outlet like that.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

You can make a lot of great stuff using it. It is somewhat soft.
You do need to have it acclimate to your shop - often once you pull it out of the stack some of it wants to become a bit bananna shaped. Coincidentally that is the reason we have carpenters yellow glues (including titebond) because the additives to the white glue are there to get good bonding with the wetter construction lumber that is more often in that 15% moisture range, compared to most hardwoods at the dealerships.

I have the cub scouts make picture frames using Kiln dried SPF that i rip down and rabbet for them but then turn them loose to mitre and pin the corners insert the plexiglass with 8×10 photo of Robert Baden Powell (founder of Bioy Scouts) along with the scout oath printed.


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## DamnYankee (May 21, 2011)

I have used construction grade stock a fair bit. I always resaw to square it up. Can't say I've ever had a real issue with it twisting on me when I have. I generally will use it when a) its going to get painted b) furniture more "utilitarian" than art.

I've even made a workbench top (butcher block style) out of resawn 2x. In this case I wanted the softer wood so as to minimize damage to the projects I am working on. the top is plenty hard/sturdy enough for some serious work yet less likely to make dings in the project.

As stated above - its just another medium/species. Use it for its properties just like any other wood.

I personnally wonder at those that automatically turn their nose up at it.


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

Well, I must admit, I made a guitar body out of cedar, and it was just too soft. Over the years, I've made other items out of construction grade, and as long as it is something that will not make a lot of human contact, OK, but otherwise it's just too soft for my tastes. Makes great sheds, though…


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## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

As Gerry said, the smaller stuff - *especially* the 2×4s have the most troublesome defects. The larger 2×10 and 2×12 stuff is usually more clear and easily worked.

Not that defects are necessarily bad, but too many can just make woodworking no fun anymore. most 2×4s I find in my local lowes are so hard to work due to twist and the many large knots.


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## jerkylips (May 13, 2011)

re: BORG - thanks! I always thought it was a reference to a specific store that I didn't know about… (I tried a google search, but found only the bjorn borg has a tennis store….)


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