# Mitered Corner Box Glue Up?



## Maveric777 (Dec 23, 2009)

I know this is a silly question that should not be complicated at all, but I am curious how yall do it.

Just trying to get some input on proven tried and true techniques that works for folks here on Lumber Jocks. I only glued up one using the box tape trick, but feel I was missing something… Kind of lost…lol

Thanks for any advice.


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## Fireguy (Jul 17, 2009)

I like the tape method, has worked great for me. I think there is a blog on the site about it.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I find a strap clamp works well for me, although there are some corner clamping systems out there I have not tried yet.


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## MisterT (Feb 17, 2010)

I make a lot of jewelry boxes with mitered corners. If you are talking about boxes the size of jewelry boxes, I would recommend trying the rubber band method. You can purchase rubberbands make especiallly for this type of clamping at Rockler.


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

I like the tape method. Doug Stowe's DVD is excellent on this.
It is easy to do… and Stowe recommends that you use good quality packing tape and not the cheap stuff.


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## Kristoffer (Aug 5, 2009)

I like the strap clamp method, myself. I've used it on regular four sided boxes and the six sided casket shaped boxes and it seems to work very well for both. I'll be trying it on an eight sided box in the near future.


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## Maveric777 (Dec 23, 2009)

Outstanding! Thanks for the feedback everyone. I never seen the strap clamp set up. That is definitely something I'm going to check into.

Thanks for the helpful info yall.


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=135

This is a 4-way speed clamp from veritas. It's great for clamping miter joints


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## Yekrub (Mar 9, 2010)

If this is a small sided box you can use a jig similiar to the one I made to use on picture frames. 
http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProjectCenter/ProjectDetail.aspx?DOCID=p336139371394514017.html
There are some better plans of this on the internet and you can use a threaded rod thru the center with wing nuts to tighten it together instead of a clamp.

If the box has much larger sides I would suggest using the strap that Charlie pictured in his post above. 
There is a way to use a ratchet strap in the same manner with some homemade corners added as well.


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## rsmith71 (Jan 26, 2010)

If you want to do it on the cheap and have bar or pipe clamps, cut 4 plywood or hardwood corner blocks. 1 to 1 1/2 " thick in an L shape with legs a couple inches long. Make sure the insde corners are square and you can run 2 clamps one direction under the frame and 2 the other direction from above. It doesn't take hardly any pressure, just enough to pull the corners together and square.
We use this at work on mitered doors whenever we make them. Don't do enough mitered doors to get any fancier right now.

By running the clamps outside the part you're clamping, you can center it on taller pieces and even make the blocks thicker to spread pressure over larger surfaces.


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## Yekrub (Mar 9, 2010)

A quick video of the jig I mention above.





Keep in mind. This will only work for small sided boxed and picture frames unless you would make 2 of them and use one on the bottom of the box and one on the top. I guess I will be making another one now that I thought of that….

Again, if it was a large sided box there would still need some support in the center of the sides as well and I would suggest the strap clamp.


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## Triman (Aug 4, 2008)

I've tried the strap/clamps, but found them to be unwieldy. Now, I use rubber bands exclusively, and find them by far the easiest method. I got a bag of mixed lengths of heavy bands at Office depot, and haven't used anything else since.


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## ackychris (Feb 24, 2010)

I haven't done many miters, but I've tried several methods. The tape was a bit of a mess, but that might have been because it was one of my first glue ups and my miters weren't clean 45s. I like the strap clamp, as long the project isn't too tall. I really like Robert's L-shaped block method-it really works well. One of my favorites, though, is sticking triangular blocks on both sides of each corner to give bar clamp jaws a square surface to grip. Then you can use all your bar clamps and your bigger C-clamps, and focus more pressure where the fit is a little loose (miters are one of my many Achilles heels-haven't made a tight-fitting one yet). However, I'm still solving the problem of sticking the blocks on well enough that they don't come off under clamp pressure, but not so well that they tear chunks out of your workpiece when you knock 'em off. Double-sided tape, maybe….


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

If the wood is thick enough I like to put biscuits in my mitered corners. They really help with alignment. I have also used what I call an interior spline. It runs the length of the joint and is visible at the top and bottom. They really help with alignment and they add a decorative touch.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

I like the tape method best. Many use masking tape, but I found the that clear packing tape is a lot stronger and can therefore exert more pressure. But a lot of pressure should not be necessary with a well cut joint and so masking tape also works fine, except for the blue tape which doesn't hold quite as well.

Just lay your pieces out on the bench with the outside up and the joints together in one long straight line. Tape over where the piece meet. Put the whole thing up on it's edge and tape the the last corner shut

Quite often miter cuts have to be perfected after cutting if the saw set-up is a little off. This can be done on a disk sander with the table set at true 45 degrees. Just make some pencil lines across the cuts and take very light passes until your pencil lines disappear.

The 2nd way is to use a 45 degree shooting board and hand plane.

A third way and maybe the easiest way is to make yourself a miter gauge attachment with a 90 degree angle fence that bolts on to your miter gauge fence (picture an "L" shape about 4" long on each side . That way you can cut the first piece on one side of the angle fence and then the matching piece using the the other side. Even if your gauge setting is not exactly 90 degrees you will still get a tight matching joint. I am lucky that my saw came equipped with a fence like this.


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## Tony_S (Dec 16, 2009)

We glue up 100's of mitered posts (for handrail) of all shapes sizes and descriptions every month. IMO, the most effective and efficient method is to use the tape method to 'roll it all up'....and then use SHRINK WRAP to pull it all tightly together.

A year or so ago, I was building some stairs in a residence and there was a finish carpenter on site. He was gluing together (or attempting to glue together) a mitered octagonal post. He bumbled, fumbled, cursed and swore as he got tangled up in his 'miter straps' fumbled with, and dropped clamps…..went on for 4 or 5 minutes and he finally asked me to give him a hand. I said sure, and suggested we break it apart…re-glue and go again. He knew about the tape method already, so we rolled up the post. He proceeded to 'untangle' his straps that were covered in glue as I started to wrap the post with the shrink wrap I had brought over with me. "good idea"!! he says…that'll keep the glue on the straps off the posts!! I just wink at him…..and wrap the other end with shrink wrap (he's still untangling) Two more wraps at the 1/4 points (6' post) FINALLY READY he says!!.....Don't need em' I says…..Waddaya mean? he says….have a look I says….
Well….the look on this guys face was kind of priceless as he studied all the TIGHT joints! LOL!!
He said…"I feel like an idiot" Ive been fumbling with these straps for 15 years….and you just wrapped that post PERFECTLY in 30 seconds…...I thought he was gonna HUG me!! LOL!!

AHHhh…ya learn something new everyday….at least you SHOULD anyways.


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

i use the tape and a web clamp method this works for me!


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## TwangyOne (Apr 21, 2009)

I use the Tape-'n-Roll method, then for good measure the strap clamp w/the corner pieces. I think I got mine at Harbor Freight for $5 each. But I've also been known to just do the tape method too.


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## jimc (Mar 6, 2008)

I frequently use rubber bands - purchased at Rockler. I also have both of the clamping units mentioned above but find them overkill for small boxes. I have had good luck with blue tape unless the edges are too sharp but have had absolutely no luck with packing tape. It holds the joints ok, but I practically ruin the box trying to get it off. It just won't peel off - I have to peel a little here, use a knife to get another piece started, peel it off…..ad infinitum. A royal pain in the butt! And this isn't the cheap stuff - good Scotch packing tape.

Jim


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## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

Funny thing about clamps and the perception of such.
A properly fitted joint should not require much force!
Just enough to bring the materials close enough for the glue to work.
Too much force will force the glue from th joint leading to failure.
All the hype about how many thousands of pounds a clamp will exert is bunk.
Just enough pressure to bring the joint together is all that is needed - anything past that either starves the joint of glue or bruises the wood.
I have had excellent luck with no claps at all - as long as the material is fitted correctly, just rub the parts together to completely distribute the glue and ten hold them in that position till the glue dries!


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## TwangyOne (Apr 21, 2009)

I agree with Dez. I forgot to mention, I don't use packing tape. I usually stick with the 1/2" masking tape because it's got a bit of stretch to it. And as for the band clamps, they are just tight enough so that they don't slide off. Other than that, it's all a matter of having a good fitting joint really.


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## rtriplett (Nov 25, 2009)

My way is to use what I learned from the Doug Stowe dvd. A well constructed 45 degree miter sled for the table saw. An angle gauge to set the saw blade. Stop blocks to ensure identical lengths on opposite sides. a stiff blade to avoid deflection. Very good quality packing tape to hold the joints together. Multiple layers to help pull the joints tight. I leave it together overnight. But sometimes I have to use some small bar clamps to make some little adjustments!! Then miter keys before the box leaves the shop environment. I haven't had one come apart.
Robert


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## Tony_S (Dec 16, 2009)

Dez..

I'll be the first to back you up in regard to proper mill work and properly fitted joints not needing a lot of force.
As for rubbing the joint together…we always called it a 'rub joint' LOL! It works well in the proper situation, but typically don't use it where ever there will be any type of stress on a joint. Not strong enough IMO. There are occasions where a joint NEEDS to be clamped with a fair amount of force….and sorry to disagree with you on the 'starve the joint' theory. Not possible with today's modern adhesives (or yesteryears properly prepared adhesives for that matter) . I believe the myth came about from the days of 'Animal glue' where adhesives were made from animal hides, fish, etc. Not to say these types of adhesives are structurally inferior to today's synthetics, because I don't believe they are if prepared, used and stored properly. I believe the 'starve the joint' myth came about because the strength of animal glues can be effected GREATLY by bacterial breakdown, underheating and overheating. A glue joint would fail due to defective adhesive and 'over clamping' would get blamed.
As for 'bruising' wood, it CAN happen. The only time Ive ever experienced it was with some Soft Maple. But really shouldn't be an issue if the proper backing blocks are used to distribute the pressure.

Sorry for going off on a tangent here LOL!


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