# Handcrafted Wooden Rings



## FrankLad

*Handcrafted Wooden Rings*

I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.

This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…

My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)

The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.

(NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)

I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.

Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.

With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)

These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)



I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…



... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.



Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.



I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.



To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.



This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.

At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.

Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.

Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.

(NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)



So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


----------



## a1Jim

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


wow that's great any photos


----------



## majeagle1

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Great description of your process, good details…......... but I also ask: " Any photo's of process"?


----------



## Huckleberry

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Just made one to try it. Did it a little different but not bad for my first one.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Thanks for the tips on water proof gluing.


----------



## Junji

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department.  I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Hey, thank you for your useful information, it must took you so long for you to figure these out, and I think it's really nice of you to give us the info.


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Thanks for the feedback, guys!

I'll be cutting a few rings after work today, and will snap pictures of the process.


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


I added pictures to the blog entry, from a Bloodwood & Oak ring I worked on today. The last pic is of a previously-completed ring cut with a taper, but the one in the process pics will look very close to that when completed.


----------



## majeagle1

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Thanks for the photos…......... I see what you mean by time consuming. Beautiful job, love the ring.
Thanks for posting…........


----------



## RobS

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Thanks for sharing. Your projects are awesome.


----------



## Junji

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Thanks again for the post, with the photos, I can see the details.


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Thanks, RobS and Junji!

This is a great group of folks. Only been a member a few days, and feel extremely welcome.


----------



## Junji

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Frank, 
No, no, I am the one who should thank you.
Today, I just made 2 rings inspired by you. Actually it's just like the you made, though. 
They are already posted in my "projects". I don't know if they are strong enough to last long, but at least my wife and daughter are happy to receive them.


----------



## cajunpen

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Great "Show & Tell" Frank. Thank you very much for sharing your process. It's people like you that make this community so worthwhile.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


I got some ring gauges off ebay. I had thought about making wooden rings before, but I thought they would be too bulky between the fingers. How thick are you leaving them?


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


The band *thickness* is usually a minimum of 2mm. Sometimes it'll be 3 or 4mm in the center, with the outside edges eased down to 2mm or below (with the comfort fit on the inside of the band, the outside edge runs less than 2mm). I like to keep it structural, but not so thick that it feels "clunky".

Some customers - typically female - prefer the thicker rings.

For the *widths*... they average close to 1/4". I sometimes get requests for narrow rings. Usually for folks who do manual labor work or use hand-tools. Those rings may run in the neighborhood of 5mm, or at least taper down to that. I find that a narrow taper on the bottom of a snug-fitting ring is great for folks who put the rings through lots of wear… since the skin folds tend to wrap around and the bottom of the ring in that case. ...and that's the part that comes into contact with everything (like wrench handles, for instance).


----------



## MrsN

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


I just found this blog, thanks for the awesome info. I love your rings. Thanks!!!!


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


MrsN: You're very welcome! Thank you for the kind words!


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


MrsN: You're very welcome! Thank you for the kind words!


----------



## TheCaver

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Any chance of a bit of info on the bent rings? Thanks for this blog post!

JC


----------



## scottb

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


great post and photography. (and a look at some great wood/color combinations.)


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Hey, TheCaver! Sorry for the delay!
The bent wood method of mine isn't down to an exact science yet. HA HA! I'm still refining it each time I do a ring. It is something I hope to get quicker at, because even though I'm charging a higher price for them than on the built-up/laminated style, I'm still not making very much for the time spent on them.

Thanks again, scottb! I really appreciate the kind words!


----------



## grizzman

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


was just looking at your beautiful rings..thank you showing how you do them..i might try a few for some christmas gifts this year…..you do a beautiful job…...grizzman


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Thanks, grizzman! They are quite fun to make. The nice thing about them is they are small and require very little wood - excellent use for leftover pieces.


----------



## Edward

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Read your blog this A.M. Neat. I was wondering how they were made. I saw "Bentwood" & thought , "How inthe world do you bent wood that small ?" Then I saw 'Bentwood style" O.K. now I see. It's an interesting project to use small scraps. thanks for sharing. I'm going to try to make some. Beautiful work!!!!!

ED NOCK


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Thank you, Ed!


----------



## sharad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


I have seen your blog quite late and was highly impressed by your work on rings. Thank u for posting the details on how to make them.
Sharad


----------



## puupalikka

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Thank you for good explanation and very good and informative pictures!! Now its time to make some rings!  Thanks for the inspiration!


----------



## bigike

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


very very nice work


----------



## lwoodt

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


very clever.thanks for the pictures.


----------



## williams

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Nice stuff. I was going to suggest the arm-r-seal in either satin and gloss. May also want to try their seal-a-cell first, then arm-r-seal, to see how you like it. Cheers.


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Thanks for the comments, guys!

I actually do all bentwood construction on the rings now, but the method described here still results in a sufficiently strong ring, and allows for some nice designs.

williams: Thanks for the suggestion! I have tried the Arm-R-Seal but eventually wound up going with a CA finish. CA is a tad tricky to apply, but it's the most durable finish I've ever used.


----------



## williams

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


CA like the super glue?


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Correct! (cyanoacrylate) Sorry about that!


----------



## williams

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


I used to use a lot of CA building RC models and glueing my fingers. Guess I never thought about it as a finish. Thanks.


----------



## JasonWagner

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Has anyone came up with an expanding bit to put the ring on a drill press then sand the outside of the ring? I'm picturing something like a sanding drum that expands when you compress it. Dremmel sanding drums are similar but I'm trying to think of how to do one that would fit various ring sizes. I'm making some laminated rings for my own personal pleasure (not to sell) and think that putting them on a drill press and sanding them would be the easiest way to get a consistant thickness.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


I have not done this, but I would take a rubber gormet with a small hole in it. Put a nut and washer on a bolt with the head cut off. Put the rubber gromet on, another washer and nut. Put the ring on the gromet and tighten the nuts until it grips the ring sufficiently. Chuck up in drill press and go. Your might have to do several sizes to accomodate different rings.


----------



## JasonWagner

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Topamax - that's what I have been picturing in my head too. I just have to go get an assortment of grommets.


----------



## woodn1

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


thanks for the tutorial! I agree -CA is marvelous stuff.


----------



## Ken90712

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


I really like this one it looks incredable.


----------



## Ken90712

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Nope this ones my fav. one now.


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Ha ha! Thanks, Ken!


----------



## yarydoc

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Nice work Frank. Thanks for the info.


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Thank you, Ray! You are very welcome!


----------



## WoodenFrog

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Hi Frank, new to this site, and think your rings are great!. I`ve done a few with the lamination process and look pretty good I want to learn the Bentwood style, any help you can give would be great. I still have alot to learn and I`ve checked into David finches work. You both are a master of your craft and I thank you for sharing you thoughts.


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Hi, WoodenFrog!

Thank you for the kind words; I really appreciate it!

In terms of technique, have a look at this link (scroll down to Comments area):
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/19043

You may find that info useful.

It takes patience, and you'll quickly find that some woods are trickier than others, but it is quite rewarding… and you'll never run out of wood combinations to try. 

If you give it a go, let me know how it turns out!


----------



## Docbruce07

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Hi Frank, I was just wondering what kind of veneers you got as far as what cut style and if you ever had any luck finding them locally instead of having to order them.

Thanks!


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Hi there! I no longer make the cut-out style rings as described above, opting for the bentwood process.
Some of the most interesting pieces I've cut have been from tree limbs or scraps / cut-offs. I do have a couple fellas I get some of the more exotic pieces from but I haven't ordered that kind of stock shown above (from Rockler) in quite a while.


----------



## Docbruce07

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


I really appreciate it Frank. I guess I've kind of had my heart set on this project for awhile and I wasn't sure if I was ready to tackle the bentwood style yet. I really appreciate the very detailed instructions in your blog!


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


No problem, Bruce! The glued-up/layered ones are probably more enjoyable in some ways, in terms of getting an inlay look and combining different types of woods. If you have a go at it, please post some pics!  All the best to you!


----------



## Docbruce07

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Thanks Frank! I absolutely will.


----------



## 58j35bonanza

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Just found this post, I really want to make some of these.

Just curious , but have you ever tried the waterproofing that people use for outside decks to help with the overall waterproofing?


----------



## JLand

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Where do you get your supplies from? Do they ship to Canada?

Thank you very much. This is very educational.


----------



## woodworkerforchrist

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


Wow this is really a neat idea. Was wondering how its done. How bout scrollsawing the outside instead? Nice work!!!


----------



## scottishbob

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


hi love your rings , i seen one with metal band in the wood how do they do that ?


----------



## KevCamp

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


I've been making the bentwood rings out of veneers. Some have turned out very nice. I finish with CA glue. It is waterproof when cured, and can be buffed to a pretty glossy sheen. I want to start making these rings out of sandwiched wood pieces. My idea is to use a drill press and a forstner bit to drill out the middle. I am hoping to use a small hole saw in the press to cut the outside shape. I'm not sure which to do first, and if it will even work. Yours turned out very nice. Thanks for sharing the post.

Kevin


----------



## BarryB

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


I have made several rings y using thin strips of laminate, building these up around a mandrel then sanding to finish. I always wanted to have different woods in the middle and could not figure out how to do it. Your method is much better as it allows for different woods. I will give this a try for my next batch of rings. Thanks for the idea …


----------



## FrankLad

FrankLad said:


> *Handcrafted Wooden Rings*
> 
> I received a couple of comments with regards to how I build the wooden rings in my gallery, so I thought this would be a good place to share a bit about my process.
> 
> This will not be the best-worded blog entry. I'll just kinda let my mind spill…
> 
> My very first rings were done in the bentwood style, which involves some trial-and-error, custom jigs, a great amount of patience and an even greater amount of time to achieve the contrast similar to the rings done in the layered style. (NOTE: Bentwood style rings are stronger, due to the grain running around the circumference of the ring, but the layered rings I'll describe here give nice contrast with less work, and are still very strong themselves. "Everything is a tradeoff.", my dad says.)
> 
> The basic idea in built-up / layered / laminated rings is to cut some thin squares of wood, and clamp them up with good glue and even pressure, with the grain running opposite between each layer. The concept with multiple pieces and alternating grain is to help prevent splitting, since a solid piece would be weak at one axis in the ring, and would break very easily.
> 
> (NOTE: There are a couple of rings I've built from single, solid pieces - Lignum Vitae, and African Blackwood. Those woods are dense and work quite well in this case.)
> 
> I started out making these rings with 2"x2" square pieces of native woods (oak, cypress, cedar) that I would sand down to different thicknesses - approx 1/8" for the outsides and close to 1/16" for the inner band. I used a belt sander for this, simply holding the squares against it. I don't recommend doing that, but it'll keep your fingernails short. LOL! I generally cut the two outside pieces from the same end of the wood, so that I can sorta bookmatch them on the outsides of the ring.
> 
> Lately I order my stock from a few different sources, already to 1/8" size, for the outer parts, and I get 1/16" veneers for the thin, contrasting layers. Sometimes I abrade the surface of the pieces a bit. This mostly depends on the wood. On smoother species, I like to give it a bit more tooth for the glue… or at least break the mill glaze.
> 
> With regards to glue… The requirement for me was something that was strong and waterproof. Weldbond is a no-go in the waterproof department. I wouldn't even call it water resistant. I tried the regular white stuff and the Professional Wood Glue variation. Even after 48 hours of curing time, Weldbond would turn gummy within minutes of placing it in the water. Titebond III performed much better, but still became soft eventually. The winner for me was good ol' Gorilla Glue. I've tried both the regular (dark) stuff and the White/Clear. I tested a couple of rings joined with Gorilla Glue by submerging them in water overnight. No problems at all as far as the glue was concerned. Plus, I find that the foaming action forces the glue into the pores. Really noticeable in woods like Wenge and Oak, where you can see the glue coming out the end grain when clamped. I know most wooden ring makers simply tell their customers to keep the rings out of water, and we tell our customers that as well, but I still wanted something that would hold up if you wore it in the shower or washed dishes with it on, etc. (Plus, it tests well on oily woods like teak.)
> 
> These wood "sandwiches" sit overnight and I begin the cutting process the next day. To bore the holes, I use forstner bits to get nice, clean cuts. (Spade/paddle bits are out of the question here.)
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use a bit size just under the intended ring size, then sand the hole up to size the rest of the way. This process involves sanding, checking with a jeweler's ring mandrel, sanding, checking, etc. I'll usually start with a little drum sander attachment on the front of the drill motor…
> 
> 
> 
> ... and eventually get down to a piece of 120 grit paper wrapped around the fingertip. At this point I'll sand out the "comfort fit" contour on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the inner size is reached, I begin cutting the outside. I use a little japanese pullsaw and more or less cut the corners and the bulk of the outside until it is mostly octagon shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> I then use the belt sander to smooth around the outside, making sure to turn the ring by hand, never leaving it in one spot too long.
> 
> 
> 
> To further refine the shape, I use a foam pad w/ velcro on bottom, and several grits of sandpaper. Usually I'll start with 120 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty time-consuming part of the process, and it relies heavily on sighting down the ring, making sure it "looks" right. Once it looks OK, I'll move to 220 grit, 320, and 400.
> 
> At this point I spray the whole thing with water to let the grain rise. I then sand again with 400 grit, spray again, and sand a final time. The idea here is to give the customer a ring that, even when encountered with water, will still feel smooth and comfortable.
> 
> Once the ring is totally dry (I typically leave them overnight to make sure) I apply the finish. If the customer wants the "wood feel", I use Land Ark penetrating oil, initially submerging the ring for an hour or so, removing it, buffing dry, and letting it sit another day. Finally, I'll buff over that with a Land Ark wax formula. This gives a satin / low-sheen finish.
> 
> Most folks, however, go for "glossy". For that I have been using Waterlox, applied in 3 or 4 very thin layers, giving 24 hours of curing between. It has a somewhat "grippy" feel, however. Not gummy or anything, but just… not smooth enough for a ring in my opinion. It's generally not a problem but in the case of tight-fitting rings, it can make it harder to remove. Even cutting the Waterlox with mineral spirits hasn't helped much.
> 
> (NOTE: I'll be trying Arm-R-Seal Gloss from General Finishes next. I've read nothing but good reviews on the stuff.)
> 
> 
> 
> So that's the story on how I build the layered wooden rings. It is a tad bit laborious (I can hear someone screaming "use a lathe!" Ha ha!) ... but I do enjoy it.


BarryB, thank you for the comment! Glad you found the above information useful!

I haven't used the above technique in a few years, but it does allow for some fairly intricate-looking inlays without having to deal with cutting the channels.

I've been making bentwood rings exclusively since then, and since I don't use a lathe I've had to develop my own workarounds for cutting inlays. Not the most sophisticated approaches, but I'm able to get the inlays done. 

There's always a way.


----------

