# Edge Plane



## mandatory66 (Jul 26, 2012)

I am having difficulty with planing an edge square. I am talking about an error of about 1/16". I use all the recommended technics and have used planes from a #3 to a #7. I can eventually get there but at times I have to remove so much wood that I no longer have the proper dimension. I know that I can plane two edges at the same time parallel and get them to match but there are times I just need to plane one edge. I was wondering if a Lie Nielsen edge plane #95 would be the answer to a quick square edge. It looks like the answer but I would appreciate any feedback on how accurate & fussy it is to use.


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## JohnChung (Sep 20, 2012)

I am not sure what is your current application for edge planing. Is it to join the edges together?
If it is just to square the edge just use your fingers*touching the side of the board while planing* to guide the plane itself.

Or

Make a guide with a rabbet and stick strong magnets to it. Then attach the rabbet to the plane. It should
provide a very good right angle reference.


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

It's still a technique issue, so it might help to describe the methods you use. Using your fingers as a fence as John said should work, but just checking regularly with a square and taking thinner shavings until you have enough practice to get muscle memory built up for what it feels like to have your plane square to the edge.

It sounds like you are overcompensating for whatever amount the board is out of square, so lighter shavings and more checking with a square should work.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

If it is to join two (or more) boards together to make a panel? Clamp the boards together, making things like a book. Close the "book" to clamp them up. Open the book to lay the panel flat. Once clamped up, you now have a wider surface for the plane to ride on.

One tip: Some plane a board at an angle, instead of staying behind the plane. Being at an angle might cause the plane to tilt a bit. Stay behind the handles, and push the plane straight ahead.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Maybe a fence for the #7?

Although I'm thinking if you eventually get there, you just need to reverse your technique. Start with what you eventually do.


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## mandatory66 (Jul 26, 2012)

I appreciate the help but really want to hear from someone who owns and has used a #95 edge plane.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

The #95 is for cleaning up edges, not trueing them. I have a #95 bronze. Its nice, but I seldom use it. Its certainly not a jointer replacement.


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## GregInMaryland (Mar 11, 2010)

Hey '66

I have both the left and right hand version of the Lie-Nielsen Bronze Edge Planes. I like them and think that they are well made (no surprise there, I suppose) and valuable tools that do exactly what they were designed to do. However, like any tool they have their limitations and the problems that they attempt to overcome can be made worse by their limitations.

The two significant limitations that I have found are:

The width of the cut is 7/8ths inch. Beyond this you are out of luck, the tool is just not deep enough. Of course you could just plane from both sides of a thicker board, but now you have the additional headache of trying to make sure that you are making even passes on both sides, or you will have a grooves, ridges or what ever.

The plane is 5 3/4ths inch long. Because of the short length of the plane any irregularities (waves, ups and downs, etc.) along the length of the board will not be corrected by this plane, or you will make irregularities by inconsistent pressure and technique. Certainly, your board will be absolutely square, but with waves along the length, so you still have a problem. To correct the waves, you will need to go back to the jointer.

The Edge Planes excel at minor adjustments and tweaks. Sometimes it is much easier to pick this up and take quick swipe at the problem area and move on, rather than bring out other tools. However, these tools are not a substitution for proper jointing techniques and tools, but rather augment other tools.

If you have the money, go ahead and by one, you will not be disappointed. But do be aware that these tools are not a substitute for learning proper jointing techniques and skills.

Good luck!

Greg


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I don't do a lot of hand jointing for glue ups but on shorter
boards I do it occasionally, usually using a jack. The technique
takes quite a lot of practice in my opinion. One thing I tend
to do which may help you is to sort of catch the base of
the front knob in the web between your left thumb 
and forefinger and actually wrap some fingers around 
underneath the plane so you can feel the edge of the 
board with them.

In terms of the #95 plane solving the technique problem
with jointing, I don't recommend that approach. I had
a bronze #95 for awhile and sold it. I did not find it very
useful.


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## mandatory66 (Jul 26, 2012)

Greg & loren
Thanks for the info, I suspected that the planes are not that useful due to the scarce information on the web. I will probably pass on them and just keep working on my technique at joining. I have a lee Vally low angle #7 and they make a fence for it which I will purchase. I was just hoping the 95 would get me square with minimum cuts. Looks like the 95 would be just a touch up plane to remove planer marks etc. Perhaps down the road. Thanks again.


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## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

Lay subject board flat on bench, insert 1/2 inch board underneath, use hold down or clamp to secure lumber.
Lay plane on its side, Like on shooting board, plane til square edge is attained.


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## mandatory66 (Jul 26, 2012)

Thanks slim , never thought of that.


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## gargey (Apr 11, 2016)

For what it's worth, I have found the Lie-Nielsen No 95 to be supremely useful. It quickly gets a freshly sawn board square at the edge (emphasis on quickly - it can take deep cuts and you can quickly tell when its square by getting a full-width shaving).

Then you can proceed to your No 4, and plane it hollow in the middle, and then to your No 7. Once you get your first full-length shaving, you have a flat, square edge.

And no harm in going back to the No 95 for one last pass to make sure it's dead-on 90 degrees.

...dot dot…

I've found this to be faster than trying to make adjustments with just a jointer, and I don't like the idea of attaching/removing a fence.

I came back to using the No 95 after a while not using it.


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