# Help removing a live center



## Neilswoodcraft (Apr 18, 2016)

I recently got a jet lathe 1221VS. it's been a great addition until now. I can't get the live center out of the tail stock. The instructions were no help. Chances are I am doing something stupidly wrong but if anyone can advise me how to remove it that would be great.

It is a jet mt2 live center that came with the lathe.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

It won't self-eject when you retract the tailstock quill all the way?

Cheers,
Brad


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

As was posted, won't self eject? Spray with a light lube to soften rust or crap? Heat the tail stock column a bit to expand? HAMMER THE HECK OUT OF IT? Just jokin'.
The tail stock should release when treated with the oils/lubes/,etc. Some light taps with a rod inside the tail stock should release the center.
Is the center in good condition?
Bill


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Take your knockout rod and insert in 3/8" tailstock hole gently tap it out from the tailstock.

May have some crud or surface rust in the tailstock quill. A shotgun bore brush with rod will help keep quill & morse taper clean & steel wool can help clean male morse tapers.

Think tell you to hold live center & turn tailstock counter clockwise to X number of turns to eject live center.


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## Neilswoodcraft (Apr 18, 2016)

It doesn't self eject, or anything. I tried tapping it out with the knockout rod. All that did was knock off the live centers head an left the remaining parts on the lathe. It's jammed in good, not sure what exactly I did.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

If it won't self eject, then you could always just remove the quill completely and tap it out that way… extend the quill as far as it will go until it disengages the threaded rod and pull it out the rest of the way. Use a wood dowel or brass rod to tap it out through the other end of the quill. I have a live center that was made for a mini lathe, so it's too short to hit the threaded rod and self-eject when it's retracted. For that one, I have to remove the quill and tap it out manually as described. PITA, but it's the only way to get it out.

However, given that it's not a really old lathe, I don't see how it could have become too stuck to come out fairly easily… unless the thing has been subject to abuse or water and rusted in place. The manual shows the proper procedure on page 10, and it may just need a bit more cranking than you may think:










Cheers,
Brad


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Had the same problem on my Jet 1642, used a wood dowel & mallet to knock that puppy out.


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## GAwoodworker (Apr 18, 2016)

I usually insert a rod or long screwdriver through the hole in the center of the handwheel, and give a few taps with my palm. Make sure to hold onto the live center to prevent it from flying off. Most bench top lathes today have this ability for when the live center is jammed in there from long use.


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## LeeMills (Nov 2, 2014)

This may help.
Take a flat tool (like a 3/4 skew or scraper) and extend the live center. Place the tool flat down between the live center and the tail stock body and crank in. If it doesn't pop loose, lighten slightly, move to tool to the underside and crank in again.


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## loiblb (Jul 6, 2015)

I have the Jet 1221VS and the stock live center has to be driven out with the knockout bar to catch the rear side edge. It will just pass through to the cap of the live center otherwise and just knock the cap off. To overcome this I ordered a Nova live center and have 0 issues with it ejecting as it should.


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## Neilswoodcraft (Apr 18, 2016)

Thanks for all the awnsers. I can't get inmmy shop tonight but will update you guys when I do sometime toammorow.


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## Biggamefish (Jul 7, 2014)

I have also had my live center stick. As said before usually there is a little saw dust or something binding it. I have found that if you back your tail stock out like the book says then take you knockout rod and gently tap it comes right out. Don't hit it hard or as said above you will knock it out but leave the cap in the tail stock.


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## xeddog (Mar 2, 2010)

Step 1 - obtain a small amount of C4. A pound or two should suffice. . . . . .

Wayne


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## Neilswoodcraft (Apr 18, 2016)

Today I spent over a hour trying to get it out. I tried just about every way I could think of without damaging the lathe. I tried the knockout rod am nothing. I then tried pulling with vise grips an using the knockout rod. Then I tried a punch. Then I put the part in a vise an tried a punch but it just slides out of the vise, unless I tighten the vise more but then damaging the lathe part. I just can't get it out with damaging it. I ended up ordering a new quill from jet an a nicer live center from woodcraft. I am pretty mad at myself for messing up part of my new lathe.

Does anyone know what kind of grease should be used for reassembly when I get the part?

Thanks again for all the help.


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## xmastree (Sep 19, 2015)

Man, I've never seen this before. Even a morse taper that's been in place a long time wil usually pop out with a sharp but relatively light blow. (Sharp meaning metal to metal, not a wooden dowel, rawhide mallet etc)
The beauty of tapered shafts is that they can be made very secure with only a tap to install them. The only thing I can figure is the user before you really drove it home super hard, and now it's going to take a lot of force to get it out.
I'm sorry to hear you've had so much trouble with it.


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## xmastree (Sep 19, 2015)

PS - the extremely close tolerance of a morse taper requires that you use only a very thin layer of lube, soley as a corrosion inhibitor. Wiping on a thin coating of Ezox or similar product is all you should apply. Grease can actually interfere with securely setting the taper.


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## JohnDon (Mar 14, 2015)

I've never tried it myself on a Morse taper, but how about applying some heat (propane torch or heat gun) to the quill- like getting stubborn nuts off cars? The quill (and its bore) will expand, maybe enough to let you punch out the live center. I'd extend the quill all the way, to minimize transfer of heat to possibly heat sensitive components (? bearing seals) housed within the tail stock.


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## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

If it does not retract then use your head stock knock out bar.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

I don't think I saw where anyone mentioned wedges that are sold to help in removing MT's. Get two, and put them in the space between the quill and the live center at 180° apposing. Get a pipe clamp of other clamping method, and squeeze the wedges until the live center pops out….The wedges look like a rectangle with a slot cut into them, but the rectangle is tapered on the flat side, creating a wedge. I believe they are about a 1/4" thick at the thickest, and just under 1/8" at the thinnest point. When squeezed together, they will expand to 1/2", causing the Mt to dislodge..

If that doesn't get the live center to come out, you have other problems…...... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

> I don t think I saw where anyone mentioned wedges that are sold to help in removing MT s. Get two, and put them in the space between the quill and the live center at 180° apposing. Get a pipe clamp of other clamping method, and squeeze the wedges until the live center pops out….The wedges look like a rectangle with a slot cut into them, but the rectangle is tapered on the flat side, creating a wedge. I believe they are about a 1/4" thick at the thickest, and just under 1/8" at the thinnest point. When squeezed together, they will expand to 1/2", causing the Mt to dislodge..
> 
> If that doesn t get the live center to come out, you have other problems…...... Jerry (in Tucson)
> 
> ...


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

I keep a pickle fork-tie rod ball joint separator tool-above my lathe to make it easy take the live center out of
my tailstock. I do not have to do much automotive work anymore, but I still have all the tools.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

I thought about that too, but if the chuck is itself held to the shank with a jacobs taper, the wedges will just pop the chuck off of the shank, leaving the shank inside the tailstock.

- MrRon
[/QUOTE]

The op is talking about a stuck live center. He either has a revolving center or a live center. A live center usually has a rigid shell body and MT with a revolving nose. . A revolving center usually has the bearing and point rotating off the MT.

Wedges don't care what they work with, as long as they fit. ................ Jerry (in Tucson)


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