# The best wood filler



## phonewired (Mar 11, 2007)

I have a small antique drop leaf table that I am repairing. The top has a 1 foot hairline split in it. I would like to know if wood glue and clamping it will be enough to satbalize it. The screw holes for most of the hinges are completly stripped out. Is there a drillable resin that I can use to fill these? This looks to be poplar wood. Also looking for a sandable, moldable filller for very large chips dings. Thank you so much, Noel.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

One method I have used for filling stripped screw holes is simply to use some dowel material, golf tees, wooden matches, etc. to create a wood plug, add glue and insert them into the hole to be filled until it is filled. When the glue dries the plug can be leveled and is ready for drilling.

As far as the crack goes I don't know if glue and clamping will do the job. What I have done, on cabinet tops for example, is to remove the top, remove the crack on my table saw, joint the edges and re-glue. You only loose 1/8" of material off the top so it really does not affect the width appreciably.


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## douglas2cats (Mar 31, 2008)

Ditto on Scott's tip for the screw holes. Combinations of round and flat toothpicks also work well to fill up the hole.
If you can make some handplane shavings from the same species (and figure) of wood and slip it into the crack with glue, it would proabably be invisible afterwards.


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## phonewired (Mar 11, 2007)

Thank you. I will do that on the screw holes today. The problem with the split on the top is it's not in a staight line. The top middle board is just one piece and the split is at an angle. It goes back from the edge about 1 foot. Thanks, Again for the tips.


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## Steelmum (Jul 21, 2007)

Glue and clamping will be enough to hold the crack if it matches up with no gaps. Glue has been proven to be very strong.


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

the best filler is no filler at all. Cant stand the stuff but at times is just one of those neccassary evils.

I mix universal fine grind tints to the colour I need and add that to a white based two part epoxy auto body filler.

You can also tint glue for crack repairs


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Roman,
What is the brand of white auto body filler? All I've seen around here (rural AZ) is the gray stuff….Bondo and the like. It's great for molding repairs when the profile is unavailable and it gets paint. I'd like to be ableto tint, though. Another trick for the bag.


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## mrtrim (Oct 11, 2007)

most bondo is about the same color its about what color hardner you get with it , red , blue white .


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## naperville (Jan 28, 2008)

OMG! Bondo on wood??? Don't do it!!!

Scott is right. You need to cut the crack out. However if you can't because it is not allong a seam, you have another option, filler sticks. There are two types available, wax and resin based. They are offered in many colors and will fill the crack completely. Follow the directions, melt the resin into the crack, level it and polish it.

But for heavens sake keep the bondo in the garage…

Tom


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## jrm (Mar 20, 2007)

The best wood filler I have ever used is Timbermate from Australia. I think Woodcraft or Rockler sell it.

Regards

Jerry


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## naperville (Jan 28, 2008)

I'll second that Jerry. Timbermate is the best.


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## mrtrim (Oct 11, 2007)

bondo is very common to use on wood . its better than any wood filler ive ever used . although only for paint grade not stain . and not for structual repair only cosmetic . ive used it for more than 20 yr.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Minwax makes a putty that comes in a small jar that is pretty much the consistency of clay. You force it into the crack, then scrape/wipe off the excess. I've had good success with it.


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## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

I too have used Bondo to decent effect under paint on a seriously abused door post (torn out section due to wind-blown screen door).

Hide glue and sawdust of the same wood species, sanded in and heat cured with an old ROS disk works well, and disappears pretty nicely under a clear coat finish. It will also take stain.

For screw holes, there is The Plugger from Lee Valley,










and it can be used for round inlays and for grafting when attaching a scion to desirable rootstock in horticulture.
Got one for Christmas, works great!

After opposable thumbs, the next great evolutionary leap forward was tool utilization.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

I've used Bondo and furniture that's to be painted. A sawmill owner gave me some White Pine 2" thick to make a bed for his daughter and the were worm holes all through it. 3/8" worm holes. Biggest holes I ever saw.

I've got a couple of the tools that Scott showed. One for a drill and one with a hollow handle. The handle is filled with the plugs. They look like an ice cream cone, only miniture. I got mine at Harbor Freight probably cheaper than Lee Valley.


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## jockmike2 (Oct 10, 2006)

I like timbermate, have used it for years, on turnings and on other works the colors they have can be mixed and matched to come close to any tree species. It won't freeze, any excess you put back in the jar. If it dries out you can add water and reconstitute it. good stuff, smells like cow sh*t.


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## RichardB (Nov 5, 2008)

If it was me, I'd use a flat-bottom drill bit to bore out the stripped holes, then plug them with a dowel and start fresh with the screw holes. Nothing novel there. Be sure to wrap some tape or something around the bit as a depth gauge lest you go through the wood!

I sounds to me like the crack is more-or-less a hairline crack in the niddle of the panel. Does it go straight through, or surface only? I had a mitre joint that had a barely-visible gap, too small to even try any type of putty. Since I was using polyurethane finish anyway, I just brushed that in. Several coats later, it was full. Then I resumed finish sanding and applied the whole finish. I don't think I could find that corner now. Could you do the same? Just build up the finish?

For filler, you might try stripping the old finish them steaming the dents first. I was amazed at how well it actually works. I used an old giant sheet-metal soldering iron and a wet paper towel. Laid towel, pressed with iron until sizzling stops and towel starts to brown, then shift towel and repeat. It lifted about a 1/8" dent. No filler needed! Gouges, well, you're on your own. I have no experience there.


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## phonewired (Mar 11, 2007)

Thank you to everyone. All great tips again. Have a great day!!!


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## TNWoodwright (Jan 19, 2009)

Dadgum Again I must have been learnt wrong. I been using bondo for years depending on the situation. i use artist colors to get what ever color i want. Catch it just right and you can block plane and scrape it flush and smooth. Minwax wood filler is nothing more than bondo. i have white ,yellow and gray and different color hardeners
Other times I use sawdust and shellac, colored epoxy, color putty, plaster of paris and a bunch of other things I don't remember. And there is always shellac sticks.


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