# Finish for new front door



## RockyTopScott (Nov 16, 2008)

Installed new mahogany front door today. Someone else made it.

I was considering tung oil because the place where i got the door had one on display. the display was indoors and looked great.

I was wanting to put a finish on it to protect it.

What are my options on top of tung oil? Cal I use poly?

TIA
Scott


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Yes, you can put poly over tung oil. Another product you might want to consider is spar urethane. It is designed for exterior exposure. I put it on all of my exterior doors, which are wood, when we built our house in 1987. I have only refinished the front doors once during this period simply because they face west and take a beating from the afternoon sun.


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## SteveB (Apr 17, 2007)

Here's what *not* to do.
My client ordered a custom-made solid mahogany door with leaded sidelites. After I installed it, she had me paint it blue. The same blue as Window's default. I almost cried.


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## RockyTopScott (Nov 16, 2008)

Paint? N E V E R!!!!!!!!!!


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

good quailty marine varnish…..........not the kind you buy at big box stores but rather marine supply stores. Wooden Boat magazine has suppliers


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

I made the front door on my house and all I put on it is pure tung oil. There's nothing to peel and it protects very well. Tung oil needs to be reapplied about once a month for about a year, then you can do it once a year.
It only takes about 20 minutes to reapply.


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## miles125 (Jun 8, 2007)

There are situations where a door takes such a pounding from the sun that paint is the only logical option. Spar varnish with ultrviolet protection is the next best choice if a transparent finish is a must, but it will fail too depending on severity of conditions. You're on easy street with your choices if the door is in a well protected overhang with little sun.

Just think of it as how to protect a fine piece of furniture that you want to set outside.


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## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

It is indeed a matter of *E X P O S U R E ! ! !* That alone determines what you can do for your door. In Europe what is frequently pointed out is NOT clear finished doors but rather* F A U X *"painted" doors. There's real wood underneath but for pragmatic sake paint affords the most protection from the elements and is actually the easiest to maintain and repair.

Roman is correct in recommending genuine marine coatings for a door that will see the light of day. I can personally recommend Penofin, Interlux, Epifanes and Sikkens. Between these you won't be displeased though your pocket book will take a hit. But seriously, you can feel it when you pick a can of the stuff. They contain high solids and genuine UV inhibitors. Go by their directions and your door will look great for years.

These guys carry a great supply…

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search.do?categoryName=Varnish&categoryId=36&refine=1&page=GRID&history=yiogga7x|top_category|categoryName~Paints^page~GRID^categoryId~532

and here for Penofin…

http://www.worldofstains.com/Penofin-Oil-Finish-for-Hardwoods-p/pe-hardwood-finish.htm

Enjoy!

always,
J.C.


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## RockyTopScott (Nov 16, 2008)

Thanks for all the great input.

The door is covered by a porch and gets mainly morning sun.

Rain never really gets to it unless it is a blowing storm.


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## LarsCA (Jul 23, 2009)

> There are situations where a door takes such a pounding from the sun that paint is the only logical option. Spar varnish with ultrviolet protection is the next best choice if a transparent finish is a must, but it will fail too depending on severity of conditions. You re on easy street with your choices if the door is in a well protected overhang with little sun.
> 
> Just think of it as how to protect a fine piece of furniture that you want to set outside.
> 
> - miles125


My door is similar but gets no direct sun (it is set back far enough and faces north), but I wanted to know if an interior finish polyurethane that was developed for floors would work for my door. I already have one coat on it. Should I start putting a water based polyurethane for outdoors over an oil based polyurethane for indoors?


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## ThomasChippendale (Nov 6, 2015)

Rocky

For having varnished and oiled brightwork on boats for the past 45 years, the best finishes I found are Spar Varnish and marine Cetol from Sikkens. For mahogany, Cetol will not come out nice on the color as it is designed for Teak and has a yellow hue but varnishes are well suited for mahogany. My favorite is Epifanes and my close second would be Interlux Goldspar or any of their top end spar varnish.

I start with a oil based red stain that is whipped dry and left to dry for a day. Then I dilute the first coat of varnish 20% in mineral spirit or better, interlux 333. Then 6-7 coats with sanding between coats with 220 grit should get you through 10 years without problems.

Use a quality brush and hold it hairs down in a can of diesel between coats. Spin the diesel off, whipe with mineral spirits and start varnishing again.

If you do the maths, using good products will come out cheaper in the long run, and the peace of mind knowing that you can go another year without coating without your door loosing its finish like oils and interior finishes being put outdoor.


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