# Rigid TS 2424-1 or Craftman 113.241691 Table Saw



## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Hey Everyone!

I'm brand new to both woodworking, and to this forum! I'm currently in process of researching and purchasing used tools, and I came across two table saws on craigslist.

I am curious to know if either the Rigid TS 2424-1 ($125) or the Craftsman 113.241691 ($50) table saws are any good today…

Here is the link to the Rigid:
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bfs/3974296784.html

Craftsman:
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/tls/3975281437.html

Hope to hear some solid news!

Thanks;

Josh


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Hi Josh. You're on the right track! The saws were both made in the USA by Emerson, and are very similar, the Ridgid has a much better fence, has both wings, the Herculift mobile base, and looks to be in a little better condition. $125 is an excellent deal IMO….I'd contact the seller asap and schedule a chance to see it and hear it run. With good alignment and good blade choice, this can be an excellent saw.

The Cman would need a fence upgrade, but has the same potential as the Ridgid….it's well worth the $50 asking price in parts alone. The slight rust patina will clean up pretty nicely on either. I doubt either will be on the market long.

The ABC's of choosing saw blades 
Saw blade bargains
The basics of table saws

Please get back to us and let us know how you made out….hopefully with some pics of a saw in your shop!


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

What scott said, bag that ridgid.


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## kizerpea (Dec 2, 2011)

Bought my TS-2424 new ..good saw


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

tough to fault that 2424. 10" CI TS with a 1.5 hp dual voltage motor, herc-u-lift, "PALS"- like blade alignment feature, webbed CI wings and a very good single piece front rail 24" rip fence. also, FWIW, those gray colored ridgid stationary power tools carry a lifetime guaranty for manufacturing defects that is tool, not owner, specific. what that's worth on a saw that's at least 10 years old, i'll leave to you. but that's a first rate TS that could very well be all the TS a hobbyist would ever need.

BTW, should 24" of rip capacity be insufficient, those fence rails can be slid to the right approx. 12" more for 36" of capacity. this operation negates the usefullness of the front rail tape measure, but, IMHO, that's a small price to pay for the added capacity.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

"BTW, should 24" of rip capacity be insufficient, those fence rails can be slid to the right approx. 12" more for 36" of capacity."

Yeah…pretty much what a TS3612 is. Maybe the OP is out buying that saw now!


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## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

The Craftsman has the "flex drive". Don't know if that's a good thing or not.

Rigid looks like a real good deal.


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Wow, I'm quite overwhelmed with all the enthusiasm and help; thank you guys!!

So as soon as I posted this, I discovered that the Rigid sold, but I found another Craftsman 113.24 TS which was in MUCH better condition (well, it seemed to be…)

I ended up picking this "better one" up for $100.. it included everything except the reset button, but the man who sold it to me ripped a nice 1.5" piece of redwood, and the machine just buzzed away (it sounded smooth and quite quiet, actually.)

I brought it home and worked with the top a bit… put about an hour and a half into it using 0000 steel wool directly on the cast iron, to using a bit of comet cleaner, to a some diluted dawn soap (it's all the we had at home here.) Let me me know if I can go even further with it. Once I get the "green light" from you guys, I will apply some miniwax paste wax to the top (picked that up from another post.)

Thanks again!!




































(This picture shows a "bright silver spot" in comparison to the rest of the top.. should I strive to make it all look like that, or is what I have so far sufficient?)

Thanks guys!

Josh


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## MrFid (Mar 9, 2013)

I'd say it looks great! If the top is to your liking, go with it. I'd go with the paste wax now. First on your list should be a cross-cut sled. Here's a good link:

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/the-cross-cut-sled/

Be sure to friend Marc on here as well. He's the man and he has a lot of great videos, including the one above. Good luck with your saw, and welcome to LJs!

Also, keep reading and watching as much as you can. Consuming content will make your work better faster. This site is a great resource as well.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Bummer about the Ridgid….that would have been a sweet deal, The Cman you got looks to be a direct drive with a universal motor. It will still work, and isnt' a bad buy at $100, but it's different from the Ridgid, and other belt drive Cman saws. bbc57ci correctly noted that the other Cman originally posted was a flex drive, which I had not noted earlier….it's also different from the Ridgid, and is less desirable than belt drive, though it does have an induction motor.

Get your new saw aligned, and get a decent $30 Freud Diablo, DW Precision Trim, CMT ITK Plus, or Irwin Marples blade for it. Usually 40T to 50T is suitable for general purpose work….fewer teeth for heavy ripping, more teeth for fine crosscuts and plywood.


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Would it have been better to go with the flex drive? I had assumed (you know what they say about that) that the direct drive was "better" and possibly newer than the flex drive.. did I make a mistake?

Also, does anyone have any tips or recommendations regarding how to apply the paste wax, or is it simply wipe on, wait 15, and wipe off?

Thanks!

J


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

There are pros and cons to each. The induction motor of the Flex Drive is generally preferred to a universal motor, but the flex drives are less desirable than belt drives IMHO….some are prone to breaking, which isn't good. Like a lot things, it's really a matter of opinion. The saw you've got is running well….plus, it's what you've got now. Align, put a blade on it, and make some dust….no worries. Try it for a while and see how you're progressing. If a great deal on a full size belt drive cast iron saw with an induction motor and a good fence comes along, consider grabbing it, and reselling your current saw.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I put the wax on, wait a few minutes and buff off. Its not like its your car. It just needs to make the surface more slick and helps prevent future rust. I reapply a few times per year. I think you did fine. Like knotscott said, use it for a while and see how it does. Likely it will serve you well for a while and then once you gain more knowledge and experience you will want upgrade to so something that is more commensurate with your higher skill level. I had a direct drive for many years and did fine. Actually the thing that turned me off of it was the fence and not the motor.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

+1 on bummer about the 2424. that was a gloatable deal and would have rated a "you suck". the c-man is a related saw, also built by emerson electric (who also built the ridgid 2412, 2424 and 3612), just built to a different price point.

how about a pic of the back of the saw also?


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Thanks for the support and responses, everyone!!

I just got home from work and put the paste wax on (going to buff it off in a few minutes)...

Toolie, here are the pictures of the back and inside (well, sort of) of the machine.



















Anything else I should know? It came with two blades..

J


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

thanks. it's a direct drive. a fence upgrade is in order, and an upgraded fence (like a delta t2 or a vega 40)can, in all probability, be applied to any successor saw, should the user be so inclined.


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Hey guys.. went to TN for a week, but now I'm back home in CA and can finally start working on my tools!

I am trying to figure out how to align the blasted blade. I have watched videos and tried to understand articles and posts, but when I go underneath the saw, nothing looks the same, and I am unable to identify which bolts are the trunions and what I am supposed to do.



















Thanks!

Josh


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

Boodles….I owned a similar model, mine was 113.226880. Adjustment is made with the 4 hex head bolts on the table top…..

Here's a link of the owners manual of my old saw. The instructions are on the bottom of page 14 and continue on page 15. These instructions should work for your model. They may have a manual for you model too. If not, I'm sure you can purchase a manual from Sears Part Direct

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0901280.pdf


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

no OM that i could find on the sears site or on vintage machinery. did have a parts diagram:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Electric-motor-Parts/Model-113240421/0247/0731750/00001544/00003

the four hex head bolts in the table top probably loosen, allowing for shifting the front support and arbor/motor mount carriage. that's pretty much how a $20 aluminum top c-man that i keep for friends' site work adjusts.


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

*Toolie…*Yes those 4 hex bolts align the blade. See my link above your post. This is the instruction manual for my old saw that should work for his model


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

*Boodles* and *Toolie*

Owners manual for Model 113.4021 via Sears Parts Direct for $13.80

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/Craftsman-Parts/Electric-motor-Parts/62535/0009/113/Model-113240421/0247/0731750?keySuffixId=NA&pathTaken=partSearch&pathRender=modelComponent&documentCompId=00001544&diagramPageId=00003&productTypeId=x&searchModelNumber=113240421&subCompDesc=Motor%20and%20control%20box%20assembly&brandDesc=CRAFTSMAN&modelDesc=CRAFTSMAN 10 IN MOTORIZED TABLE SAW&blt=11&shdMod=&keyId=


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Thank for your the responses, Toolie and kdc68!

It turns out aligning the blade was much easier than anticipated - I simply had to adjust the degree pointer to point to 90 degree once I discovered the blade was square at that point.

However, I realize I have a little problem. As expected the blade and tilt left and right a few degrees past the 90 and 45 degree marks, and I thought I could just call Sears and order the stop collars (#37900) and install them. As I should have expected for a saw this old, the stop collars were discontinued.

Any tips on how to MacGyver a solution? I was thinking of finding nuts that can slip onto the tilt screw (#62438) and gluing them into place in their appropriate places.. any thoughts guys?

Thanks!


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

*Boodles*....I find it interesting from your photos in post #16 that the elevation screw stop collars are both there and that you would be missing the collars on the tilt…..Well if they were there, an allen wrench would adjust them….
The MacGyver solution you mentioned might work better if you would be find four nuts that would work on the tilt screw. Use two nuts for 45 deg and two for 90 deg. Tightening two nuts against each other would lock them into place. That might be better than using one and trying to glue in place. Any further adjustments later on could be done easy by loosening the two nuts, adjust and re-tighten them against each other….
Me personally, I don't rely on the stop collars. I don't have mine set at 45 and 90. I have a good machinist square and drafting 45 deg triangle I use to set the angle to 90 or 45….but that me….I'm sure opinions vary


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

*and gluing them into place in their appropriate places.. any thoughts guys?*\

regrettably, that doesn't sound like a terribly good solution. on my 70s vintage c-man 10" belt drive CI TS, i backed the stop collars out as far as possible and do not use them. accumulations of sawdust can render them inaccurate, so i use either drafting squares or a wixey digital angle cube to set my blade.

i'm with kdc on the not using the stops. but i don't think there's room enough when the arbor is at 90° for two nuts on the end of the bevel adjustment rod.


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Thanks for the responses, guys! I have a speed square that I will use for the 90 degree setting, and I'll go pick up a combination square for the 45 degree angle!

Thanks again, guys!


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

*Boodles*.....You got yourself a good deal on your saw IMO…..congrats…..The Craftsman model I owned similar to yours lasted me about 20 years before I sold it and got a new one. It was reliable for 18 of those years. I was having a lot of runout at the arbor for which I assume the bearings were bad. Other than that it was in good condition because I took care of it. The man who bought it was a Craftsman fan and was eager to get it home and upgrade the fence and repair/replace the OEM motor


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Hey everyone, I'm currently in the process of building my crosscut sled, and I have a few questions/concerns.

1) There seems to be a bit of blade wobble (I'm going to take the blade off and see if it's bent or if it's a problem with the machine) and,

2) The table saw did not come with the splitter/spreader.. Sears no longer produces them, and they are half the cost of the table saw on eBay.. are there any suggestions or work-arounds for this?

Thanks guys!

Josh


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

1) check the arbor and arbor flange for runout. this video is a good recap of the operations:

http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/tsalign.html

2) make a zero clearance insert for the throat. here's a how to that includes a fixed splitter.

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/090/videos/making-a-zero-clearance-insert/

then there's always the shark guard:

http://www.leestyron.com/index.htm

once the blade runs true, this is the least complicated, easiest and most accurate plan i've seen for a CC sled:

https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t13945/

built mine for my x-man TS so it accommodates a 26" wide panel. and it's dead accurate. none of that 5 cut tediousness:


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

The Microjig splitters are effective and reasonable.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

The original post was deleted…

... don't know if this is pertinent or not…

*Here is Deal I saw recently... Looks good to me...*


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Good Afternoon!

Since Saturday decided to come back around, I figured it was time to continue working on my crosscut sled…

I purchased a 1.5" x 5.5" x 4' board to use as the fences, but I had to cut it down before pushing it through the planer to level off. So, as I'm ripping the board (taking maybe an inch and a half off), about a foot into the cut the motor stalls and stops immediately. I immediately turn off the saw and unplug it. I would say it tripped the "reset" button, but I do not have a reset button, so I can't tell if this is the case. There was no smoking or noise or really anything. One moment it was going, the next it was done.

Any tips? This happened about 10 minutes ago.

Thanks guys;

Josh


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

It sounds like the motor is stalling. I had this happen to me when I was ripping a few 12/4 pieces of white oak. I was using my guild's shop at the time and it scared me the first time it happened. In retrospect, the bandsaw was probably the better place for me to have made the cut I was trying to make on the table saw, since the table saw was setup with a combination blade and not a rip blade (I didn't know where the rip blades were). Or maybe I should have made a few non-through-cut passes first.


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Yes, the table saw is my only option for this cut… Any suggestion on how to un-stall the motor?

Thanks for your response!

Josh


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

Boodles, for my cut, the table saw started back up fine after unplugging and re-plugging the machine so I'm not sure if I have any recommendations on what you could try.


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## Craftsman70 (Jul 31, 2012)

Check to make sure you didn't blow a fuse/breaker in panel.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Letting it cool off might do the trick, but check the breaker like Cman70 mentioned. Be sure to have a good sharp blade….low tooth count, thin kerf, and a steep hook angle will help reduce the resistance. What are you using to guide the cuts? (having the blade parallel to the fence is key….any deviations increase the resistance a bunch).


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Paxorion, Craftsman70 and knotscott - thank you for your replies!!

I feel foolish for not having checked it before posting, but such is life. It turns out that the saw pulled too much power from the socket, and popped one of the breakers on the house (figured this out by testing the other outlets with my drill.)

So once that was fixed, I decided it was time to complete my first project…










It's not perfect by any means, but with the tools I had available, and my limited experience and ability, I think it turned out okay. I have yet to see how accurate it is, but from the first few cuts it seems dead on (when compared against my speed square.)

Thanks for the help and support!!

Josh


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

nice. that short fence is not what the work piece rests against, is it?


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Toolie, it is for right now. I was having issues with the board that I selected for that… It was extremely cupped, and ever after running it through the jointer (which I'm having issues with), I was unable to get the entire piece flat. I ended up being able to find an 18" piece that was completely flat, so I cut it and use what I could.

I will mainly be making smaller cuts right now, and I will rebuild that sled when the time comes (and I figure out how to use my tools more effectively.)


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

humbly suggest considering plywood when fabricating a new fence for the existing sled or a new sled completely. good 7 or greater layer plywood is quite stable and flat.


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Thanks for the heads up; I will definitely take that advice when the time comes!!!

Thanks for all your help!!

Josh


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