# Wax application questions (Renaissance Wax)



## Woodworker123 (Aug 3, 2010)

Two brief questions for those of you experienced with Renaissance wax (or maybe wax in general). I am applying this to walnut finished with Deft Danish Oil.

I can't seem to find a good answer to what you apply the wax with. One person mentioned synthetic steel wool (0000?) and then buffing with soft rag. Other people don't mention what to use for the application. My intuition says you'd waste a lot of wax to the porous steel wool. I'm only concerned about this because Renaissance wax isn't very cheap, and I don't know how far it will go.

Second question is in regards to the open grain pores on the walnut. I'm afraid when I apply the wax, it will build up and turn white in the grain. I wet-sanded with 420 and 600 grit on end grain and a few glue and dent imperfections I hadn't noticed, but not the entire piece. I'm afraid even if I did the entire surface during future coats, I'd miss some spots. I've applied two coats already and I plan on doing two more, sanding in between with 1000 grit paper. So, anyway, a lot of the reviews of Renaissance seem to indicate that it applies better and more easily than others such as Briwax. Am I worrying about something that isn't likely to happen with this wax?

OK, I lied, those weren't short questions, and I have two more, that actually are short. How many coats of wax do you like to use on top of danish oil, and how long do you wait to apply it. I've read answers ranging from 1 week to 6 weeks (!!!).

Thanks for everyone's help, there's been several points in this project (which is my first project not completed in a classroom environment) where you all helped me out a ton. I hope to post the completed project soon.


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## Woodworker123 (Aug 3, 2010)

I don't care one way or the other if the pores are actually filled, I just don't want them to turn white from the wax. If anything, I'd prefer they stay open, but I'm not sure that's possible with any wax.

I'll be applying the wax at work, which is a large steel building, so circulation and smell shouldn't be an issue.


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## cabs4less (Nov 2, 2010)

Well I have never heard of more than one coat of wax.
As far as applicator go synthetic the steel wool leaves dirt as wears and breaks and is hard to clean out of corners and go easy on loading the pad you dont need much
wait at least two days before applying 
as far as a buildup problem after you aapplyt with the pad in line with grain with moderate pressure immediately take a paper towel and buff the surface as you do it put a put a couple of drops of cold water down. The water keeps the wax cool to avoid streaking and it will make the excess congel and stick to the paper towel but just a few drops is all it takes 
then let dry for an hour or two
if you can push your thumb across the surface with out it leaving a smear you did it right if it smears go back with water and a synthetic pad with light pressure to remove the extra wax.
and i wax all my furniture and a can of briwax lasts me bout six months so it goes futher than you think


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

I have used Renaissance Wax specifically on several projects. The 5-board bench I made had Danish Oil laid down heavily beforehand. I typically wait 1-2-weeks in our dry Colorado air before putting anything over the Danish Oil, wax included. No matter what, I would never go less than a week. I applied 5-coats of wax to the top of the bench, and 3-coats everywhere else. I used a small square of old cotton cloth, folded over multiple times, then a clean cotton cloth to buff the wax. I would leave the wax on for maybe 5-minutes before buffing it off. Although Renaissance Wax is not inexpensive, you use a very little bit at a time. I'd bet I used maybe 1/4-teaspoon applying all those coats to the bench. A little goes a long way!

My technique was basically to swirl the wax on in circles and buff it off the same way with an old cotton t-shirt. That way, you're not going with the grain, or against it all the time. After waxing, the piece will smell for a little while until all of the solvents are completely evaporated, but usually overnight or the length of the day is pretty adequate for the smell to dissipate, at least here in Denver.


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## Woodworker123 (Aug 3, 2010)

Thanks for the info. Sounds like I have plenty of time to practice on some scrap wood. I didn't realize I should wait so long for the danish wax to completely cure. It's relatively humid in Austin, so maybe I'll give it 2 or 3 weeks just to be conservative.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

Wax doesn't totally seal a surface, but it will greatly slow the curing process, so if you can afford the time, I would wait for the danish oil to really cure before applying the wax over the top, or you risk a gooey/tacky mess, at least from what I've heard. I've always waited long enough to not have to find out the hard way.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Yesterday, I finished … finishing … my walnut and QSWO box.

After a total of five coats of Watco-the last two wet-sanded with 400-grit wet/dry and 800-grit wet/dry, respectively.

After 24 hrs drying (it was 20% humidity, outside), I applied paste wax with 0000 steel wool, going across the grain.

After about 10min, I removed it with a cloth diaper, buffing with the grain.

I HAVE used multiple coats of wax, but … didn't this time.

I'm very happy with the results. I think you will be, too:


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