# Carbide lathe tools-Ever make your own?



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Ever see those lathe tools that have little replaceable carbide tips? Here's a website that sells them for $120 each.

http://www.easywoodtools.com/EWT%20Master%20Retail.pdf

My question is, why couldn't you just buy a piece of rolled steel rod, tap a hole and mount a cutter on the end and make your own wood handle? The cutters sell for just $13 each?

Everybody I've talked to that's used these carbide tools love them, they say you get up to 80 hours of continous turning before they gut dull.

Ever used one? What did you think?

Ever considered making one?


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

I have a couple and I think they are great. I've also wondered why one could not make them if they had some knowledge of metal working.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Even without metal working experience, they look to me like a simple rod that holds the cutting tip. A little time at the grinder to shape the end, and a carefully tapped hole to hold the cutter…

Perhaps I'm oversimplifying?


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## Chiefk (Jan 28, 2008)

Like knucklenut, I have one homemade with Grizzly cutters. It works great. pkennedy


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Wow. And to think I have a couple hundred bucks invested in these! ;-(

Have any of you used the Grizzly cutters AND the Easy cutters to know how they compare in performance?


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## ChrisForthofer (Jan 1, 2010)

Similarly, these could be made by simply buying the inserts and brazing them onto the end of a rod with silver solder. Insert gets dull, just re-heat, remove and either index it or replace it. I would recomend the solder method over just a screw as unless you are able to machine a somewhat precision pocket to hold the insert it will move/turn and possilbly damage your piece or worse, yourself. I am a machinist by trade and in a pinch this method is used to make custom form tools for metal lathes or mills. With a good solder bond, you'd be amazed at the abuse the tool assy. can take without failing in metal. I would be so bold as to say damn near imposible to break in wood. On a side note, this is the method they use to hold carbide tips on saw blades and router bits for those that didnt know already 

Chris.


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## DanCo (Jun 19, 2010)

After my first set of chisels started to not be enough, I started making all of my turning tools. If you get the right steel its easy. I even make the carbide tips, but I do have family and friends in the metal trades so it is easier for me. One of my neighbors is a farrier and a knife maker so I get his left overs and cutoffs too. It really is satisfying to use your own made tools.


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## ChrisForthofer (Jan 1, 2010)

Knucklenut,

I am glad that has worked for you, I guess I was coming from the reference frame of my trade. Most inserted cutting tools use a very closely fit pocket to retain and control the insert in the cut. I was over-thinking a bit as the cutting forces involved in metal FAR exceed that experienced in wood. As long as the insert cant turn or shift which could loosen the screw (which it sounds like you have achieved quite well) which could quickly become unsafe. I love to build my own tools and have recently started making my own hand planes. I am glad there are others who enjoy the challenge and satisfaction (and cost savings!) in building useful tools.

Chris


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## newbiewoodworker (Aug 29, 2010)

Chris: Its a bad idea to solder them on… I wouldnt hesitate to Tap them, or even Weld them(as you said… its cheap… when the cutter gets dull, chop off the end, tack on another… ) but not solder… not really enough heat involved, so thus the joint is weaker than the base metal, you want it as strong…


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

For those who have used these carbide cutters, how long do they last before they become dull?


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

I've seen round carbide cutters with a 15-degree undercut that would be perfect for a handheld toolholder. Would be great for final smoothing, better than scraping, maybe! I'll just bet the carbide would last a long long time. They attach to machine-shop toolholders with a #8-32 allen-head screw.


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## ChrisForthofer (Jan 1, 2010)

Newbie,

We do it on nearly a weekly basis at work and then cut aircraft parts with them after its done. Its how your carbide tips are held on your saw blades, carbide on your router bits. Its beyond common and perfectly safe and beyond strong. And when I say beyond strong, I mean it. I've seen the carbide fail due to bad feeds and speeds and it never fails at the solder joint. Silver solder is not electrical solder, it requires much higher temps to melt and its mechanical properties are NOTHING like lead or tin solders. Some call it brazing, our toolmakers always refer to it as silver soldering. 13 years of using these tools in my trade successfully has more than demonstrated their safety.

Chris.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Here's a view of some carbide inserts that can be adapted to a toolholder of your own making. You can scroll this catalog pages and get an idea. These carbide inserts are just a bit bigger than your thumbnail, and I have used them for woodworking in the past. They're deadly sharp! And last a long time. Sorry, I couldn't find any round ones, like the one I used. A single screw thru the center hole is all you need. I remember it was great for hogging out bowls FAST!
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=176&PMCTLG=00


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

poopie- Wow, thanks for the link!


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## Dautterguy (Feb 7, 2008)

Ladies and Gentlemen, If you go to www.Gobal Tooling.net then look in the Carbide Insert Knives, they are listed @ $1.87 ea. both with a radius and straight. I have purchased before from them.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

No problem, jim!
Enco used to have an outlet in North Andover, Massachusetts years ago when I lived in that area. In fact, I bought my first 14" Bandsaw from them, was just the typical branded import identical to Delta…$159. Used it for years. Enco always used to be THE place to get machine-shop supplies, and often had specials on store-brand woodworking tools. Great place for us tinkerers!!!


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## Vector (Jan 29, 2011)

I saw a nice looking handle/carbide assembly in a magazine at Barnes and Noble Friday. The handle was just an aluminum cylinder that was knurled. Looked an eight grade shop project. It had a steel shaft with a tapped hole to hold the circular carbide tip. My first thought was how easy it would be to make. After reading a couple of reviews, it seems even more so. The company would not sell the circular cutters unless you were a customer of theirs. Whre can you get the circular ones?


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Vector- I'm not sure about the ones you refer to. But the commercially made carbide turning tools have replacement cutters available for about $15. You can get them at Woodcraft of the internet. Also review this thread for other ideas on carbide cutters.


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## joej (Sep 3, 2011)

Old thread-but here is some more recent info.

I have a 'walk through' on making such a tool - based on Capt Eddy Castellin's videos on Youtube.com

I posted it here:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/how-carbide-tip-turning-tool-91939/


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I think David Grimes posted information he used to make his tools. Look for this on LJ and he will also have recent information.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

http://www.youtube.com/user/capneddie/featured
Check out Cap'n Eddie. He sells cutters, cutters and bars, etc. Good prices and ideas.
Bill


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## moke (Oct 19, 2010)

Stumpy-
I use several different carbide insert tools. If you notice they are most all made from square stock. This is so the bottom can ride on your tool rest in fashion like a scraper. Round tools are easy to turn slightly are if they are turned they "catch" easily. You certainly could make them from round stock, but you would have to pay particular attention to the tool position itself as you use it. Most guys that I know of are taking square stock and if they do not have a metal lathe, they are rounding it as best they can on a grinder. Remember the rounded portion should be down in your handle, so it does not have to be particularly pretty. Then use grinders and files to make the flat portion where the insert goes. I might drill and tap it as the heat from braising might effect the insert. Take particular care for the area on the flat part is that it is not excessive…the inserts have a tendency to want to turn. That is really if you are going to use the 2" or 4" radius "square" cutters. IF you are going to use the square cutters, to put on the insert, I put it on and then mount it in a wood vise, straighten the tool so the insert is parellel and purpendicular then tighten it as much as I can. The inserts have a tendency to "cant" to one side or another if they are not firmly held. A straight insert for me works much better. 
Good luck


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## triw (Jan 30, 2012)

Some great information here Thanks for sharing. I learned some good things I can use on my lathe and some cool tools to make.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Captain Eddie is the real deal. Great guy and tells it like it is.

I have no idea how long before a cutting tip will get dull. I will say that I had to freshen the edge on my conventional tools several times during a half dozen spindle like turnings. But these I haven't even rotated the tip to a fresh spot yet. Absolutely awesome.

Anybody need an 8 pc. set of the old school turning tools ? They're right there with the planes (looking good but not too useful in a modern shop) needing somebody to love them again since their owner has moved on.


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## RudyReyes (Apr 8, 2010)

Does anyone know what size of screw to use with the Global inserts? If so what size tap does one need? I noticed above that Dautterguy has purchased these before. They appear to be the cheapest price on the net.


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## geoscann (Feb 27, 2012)

Stumpy if you look the more expensive ceramic carbide tips, I dont believe you could ever wear it out cutting wood. but you will need a diamond lap to sharpen them.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Nobody knows how long they will last. That's a good thing. ;=)


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## adaughhetee (Jan 20, 2011)

Rudy, i just bought some and a regular 1/4 flat-head bolt fits the counter sink. I just taped my rod with 1/4 tap and it works fine. And I also recommend what MOKE said about round bar. I made my first out of 1/2 round bar and will be re-doing it with square because it catches and twist.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*So many guys are making their own now that the commercial producers are going to have to get a bit more reasonable with their prices. It's nuts, fifteen dollars for a cutter and then a hundred dollars for the stinking handle! Why would anyone buy the whole deal fir $115+ when they can just buy the $15 cutter and make their own handle? We're wood turners, for goodness sake. Do you think we can't turn a wooden handle and stick a bar into it?*


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## RudyReyes (Apr 8, 2010)

I agree … especially when the cutters sell for $1.56 at Global Tooling.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

I have made quite a few, the indexable tips are easy to come by.I have no problems as I have a machinig shop also with a lathe an milling machine etc etc etc .Try it, it's not that difficult.I made some very nice handles from cheap bars from wight lifting hollow bars the cheap plastic weight kind of bars are ideal but not easy to come buy.any hollow tubing would do. Alistair


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## grbrico (Feb 4, 2012)

http://beta.mscdirect.com/product/01155589

We use these green Silicon Carbide | Grit: 100 | Grade: Fine grinding wheels to sharpen our carbide cutting tools.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

I will go back to my opinion on excessive obsession about woodworking/sharpening/measuring, and other such.
How sharp is sharp, how accurate is +- .0000?, how flat is +- .002? Come on guys. We're workin' with a product that changes with the weather.
In my not so humble opinion, Cap'n Eddie has a good product, and a great overview about the whole experience of turning.
Spend a zillion bucks if ya want. I'll try my best to stay as simple as possible.
I'll go wax my TS and jointer after that diatribe. 
Might even try to call Roy Underhill. Who knows?
Sure made me feel better.
Bill


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## SCR0LL3R (May 28, 2010)

The inserts can easily be sharpened with diamond stones too just remove them from the shaft first. I dull mine rather quickly with some of the stuff I turn and the replacement inserts for my tool are $18. Just a minute or two and they are just about like new.


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## RudyReyes (Apr 8, 2010)

Will the Global square insert cutters accept a 10-24 screw or any other size OR does one have to buy the Global screws which are metric?

thanks


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## RudyReyes (Apr 8, 2010)

I just finished making









my homemade Carbide Cutters.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

So, tell us… where did you buy your cutters? Where did you buy the bar stock? What size tap did you use? Can you post a closeup of the tips?


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## DamnYankee (May 21, 2011)

Stumpy - recently members of my woodworking club, who are turners, recently did make their own. One of our members works in metal fabrication so he brought in the steal rods cut and tapped to accept the bit. they then turned handles to take the rod. The cost of the steal rod, cut and tapped, was $10 each.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

I actually posted this thread a long time ago when these carbide tools were pretty new. There was no way I was going to pay over a hundred bucks for one. Now that I see so many people making their own, I may have to try it out. Would make a good season two show!


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## RudyReyes (Apr 8, 2010)

I bought the blades from Capt Eddie … since then I have ordered my own 14mm square radius inserts from Global Tooling for $1.56 each and ordered the 10mm Round inserts from a source I found in Hong Kong for $2.60 each.

The square stock I bought locally from a place called Federal Iron Works .. .50 cents per foot for the 1/2" square and .38 cents for the 3/8" square stock. The ferrules I ordered from Lee Valley .76 cents for the .875 and $1.28 for the 1" .. I tapped the hole using an 11/64 drill bit and threaded it with a 10-24 tap. For the handles I used pieces of exotic woods from Woodcraft. The hard part was hand filing the recess' for the blade to sit on.

I started this project because I wanted to try out these Carbide Tools and since I couldn't afford the outrageous prices being charged I decided to make my own.

They are simple to make, simple to use, a nice addition to your tool arsenal and AWESOME at making shavings.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Thanks for the insight Rudy. The handles on your custom made turning tools look way comfortable.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Get a set of el-cheapo wood turning chisels from HF and grind the ends to accept a carbide insert. I already have a set that I'm going to convert.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

What's your Hong Kong source?


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## White_Rose (Apr 11, 2012)

Carbide taps are easy to come by, but make sure you are prolonging their life by using cutting lubricants.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Nobody's talking about carbide taps… do I smell spam?


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## RudyReyes (Apr 8, 2010)

StumpyNubs I ordered the round inserts from Mr. Chiu .. he goes by CarbideChiu .. he has his own factory in Hong Kong .. he sells on EBAY… you can't beat the $2.60 for 10mm carbide inserts.

Hope that helps


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

Rudy, you have past along a wealth of information on these tools. Thank you


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## Gibbs (Jan 9, 2012)

You might want to check out this web site: http://www.harrisonspecialties.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=HS&Category_Code=LatheAccessories 
I bought the 6" radius square cutter. Works GREAT!!! He also has a video on youtube of using this. $49.99 plus shipping.

I used to be a machinist at Boeing many years ago. unless you lathe a lot of sandy gritty wood, you will be hard pressed to wear one out for a very long time on wood. They are designed to cut hardened steels. Once you get one side dull, merely take out the screw, rotate 1/4 of the way and you have a new cutter. You can do this 3 times after the initial edge might wear down before even thinking of buying a new insert. Once you have a tool, the inserts are not bad priced.

I'd actually like to find a piece of square tubing that is just a tad over 1/2" inside dia. so I can cut it to a small piece, drill and weld a flat nut on there and use a thumbscrew. I could set the cutter then to only go so deep and keep the diameter of the wood I am working on very consistent with a given stop.


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## Gibbs (Jan 9, 2012)

I made a tool stop for my Harrison Specialties lathe tool. I used a piece of 1/2" U channel I found at Menards and cut down the inside bottom of the channel so I could bend it down 90 deg. to the main bed. Then I cut off the 2 outside edges at about the same distance. I can put this 1/2" tool holder, with the carbide insert) in the tool stop and adjust it so that when I am cutting along on a piece of wood I can precisely control how deep I will actually go. It rests and slides along the tool stop. I make Apricot wooden flutes, Duduks, and I put in the "master" in the lathe and set the tool so that it is close to the diameter I want, and cleamp it up. Then I put in the nearly completed piece and it keeps me from going a little to much in taking off wood. The 90 deg. tab slides along the tool rest and keeps the cutter at the right distance.

Also you can check at www.uxcell.com for some carbide cutters as well. They are from Hong Cong I believe. I have ordered twice from them before and they ship pretty fast.


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## foneman (Mar 11, 2007)

Here is one I made yesterday from a round cutter and 6-32 screw from Capt. Eddie. I am not a machinist and do not have any machinist tools, but I do have a right angle grinder and a sharpening grinder. Several months ago Capt. Eddie made a video recommending a slight angle for the cutter platform which is what I did. It really works well on the inside of boxes and bowls and requires very little sanding.























































john


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## Gibbs (Jan 9, 2012)

Very nice John! What you also might do is drill and tap the hole closer to the back ledge and then take a dremel and "relief grind" part of the back shoulder so that the carbide cutter fits into a nice U kind of groove.. You won't have any gap, and it make prevent it from shifting around on you, or spinning.


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## foneman (Mar 11, 2007)

Thanks Vern, I will give that a try on my next one. Sounds like a good idea.

Have you ordered any of the round carbide cutters from the source mentioned in your previous post? If so, how do you like them?

Thanks,

john


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## Gibbs (Jan 9, 2012)

I've just ordered a long and extra long 12mm boring bit/drill from www.uxcell.com and it came fairly quickly and looks just like the ones you see in most hardware chains….except a lot cheaper. I have not ordered any inserts from that source as yet.


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## johnintecumseh (Jan 16, 2009)

I use carbide tip tools made by Kilian tools. stainless 3/8 or 1/2 sq.shaft .insert are top quality carbide. I am very happy with them. price is 1/2 of easy tool and more metal. just a happy client. keep smiling John


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## foneman (Mar 11, 2007)

Johnintecumseh, 
Thanks for the info on Kilian tools.. Those cutters look really sharp!!

john


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Been 8 or 9 months and I'm wondering how people are feeling about their shop made carbide tools? My (new to me) lathe arrived today and I'm a needing some cutting tools pretty quick. I also like the idea of not having more tools to sharpen.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I get mine from Cap'n Eddie.


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## Kreegan (Jul 10, 2012)

I didn't make my own, but I have a carbide tool made by Cap'n Eddie Castelin. I have round and radiused square cutters for it. I really like it, particularly for bowls and hollowing work. It feels stouter and doesn't chatter as much as a scraper.


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

I have been using carbide tooling for turning since the late seventies in a production environment. Even the micrograin inserts cannot be sharpend to the edge that HS can, but the edge is definitely sufficient for turning. There is nothing that beats carbide for holding an edge when cutting a blank that may contain sand or grit from storage or other scources,or skinning the bark of a NE turning. They definitely have a diferent feel compared to a typical gouge or scraper. The insert that you need to look for is one usualy used for cutting aluminum it will be uncoated and have a sharp edge. most of the cutters are designed for other metals and to toughen the edge the edge has a hone or flat ground on the edge. In wood it is like trying to cut with a dull tool. I metals it helps to form the chip and keep it consistant. I have found boxes of ten inserts for laess than 20.00 on ebay. Again look up the carbide specifications so that you know what you are getting. lots of relief and it will self feed and be hard to "ride the bevel" for a shear cut. Not enough and you will be scraping not cutting. edge prep should be sharp not honed.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*Actually, a steel cutter is sharper than a carbide cutter!*

Carbide is a sintered material and can only be sharpened an to the smallest components particle while steel is a homogeneous material and can be sharpened, and shaped, to a much finer edge than carbide. The only advantages of carbide is longer life and for use on abrasive materials such as MDF, man made solid surfaces, and the like. Steel cutting edges do not last and probably should not be used on those materials!


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

That's true, but with a turning tool the edge doesn't have to be nearly as keen as a plane or chisel. A carbide cutter gets plenty sharp, and lasts a lot longer.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*Stumpy, point taken as I am not into turning!*


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I have round and radius cutters from Eddie Castelin … I bought one bar from him, and made the other myself. I use the carbide for roughing bowls and some spindle work, but always finish with HSS.

-Gerry


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## Kreegan (Jul 10, 2012)

Yeah I agree with Gerry. Carbide tools are great for the first 80% of so of turning work, but it's better to finish with good old HSS tools.


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## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

Glad I read all the way to the bottom- I was ready to sell my old (and new) HSS lathe tools. Guess I won't, after all, but I will be making some tools with carbide tips.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Yeah, I'm going to buy a set of hss lathe tools and maybe down the road make a carbide tool for roughing. What works better the round or cambered inserts?

A little OT but when looking at vintage lathe tools, if they are not marked hss I should probably assume they are carbon steel?


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Rick M. -Yes, older tools that aren't marked HSS are likely carbon steel.

I use the square or radius cutters for roughing, round cutters to get close to a finish cut or for coves.

-Gerry


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## moke (Oct 19, 2010)

I have heard of people that have made insert lathe tools from the pry bars at HF, they already have a handle on it and is very cheap and use it for their bar stock. I have two from Woodchuck, I love them. I turn a lot of pens and I use a 4" radius cutter for almost all of the pen and then use a skew for the finish turning.

I have a bigger woodchuck that I use with a round insert for the inside of bowls. Insert tools are easy to use and while I don't, you can sharpen the insert with a diamond file. Woodchucks are 25% less than Easywoods. The owner Ken just had a serious heatrattack, but I think he is doing well, so there may be a wait to get one.


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## bobmead777 (Jun 11, 2013)

I'm jumping in really late on this one but thought I would share what I just made. I bought a carbide lathe tip for $13.95. Went down to our local welding supply store and purchased 3ft of 1/2" double heated square steel stock and used a file to cut the seat for the carbide tip. Drilled and tapped and ground an angle under the tip, lathed a handle and put a 3/4" copper cap on the end to stabilize the wood when I put the square steel into the handle. I just drilled a round hole a little smaller then the square stock and epoxied the stock into the handle. It works GREAT!!!! I am now going to make one for a round carbide tip. It will be a little harder to do because of the round part. But I think I can take care of that with a die grinder. By the way, the wood is from a branch that broke off my lilac tree.


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

Silver brazing is perhaps a better term then soldering.
But it does work fine for attaching carbide to steel.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

That must be a big lilac! Nice work!


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Good looking lathe chisel Bob. I ended up buying a couple of the Easy tools but in retrospect, should have just made my own. They dull much quicker than I expected, need to pick up a diamond hone to touch them up.

This guy has been making videos on various lathe tools he's made.
http://www.youtube.com/user/sjm2inok


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## bobmead777 (Jun 11, 2013)

The lilac trunk was about 8" in diameter. A really old one.

Great link on the making your own tools Rick M. I like the idea of making your own tools. For some reason, they just feel better in your hands. Planning on making my own silicone mold for making pen blanks with resin.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

If I may add my 2 cents, I have made many of these for under 20 bucks. Depending on how fancy you want to get with the wood handle they can keep going up in price. I made some each, square, radius, and round tip. You can get these carbide cutters on e-bay for as low as $ 5.95 . The round ones are around $11.00 ea. I usually have a 20'' or longer handle with a 12'' square bar for deeper reach and better stability. Hope this helps out.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Dave … Check out Eddie Castelin's cutter prices ( http://www.eddiecastelin.com ) ... he meets or beats any prices on eBay (or anyplace else on the web) and he doesn't gouge your eyes with shipping charges.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

Gerry, thanks for the tip. I checked it out and found that Techwestsolutionsllc on e-bay has the same stuff at half their price and the shipping is cheaper also. If you are one that makes your own carbide tip tools, then check it out and compare. I made quite a few of these for friends and passed the savings on to them.


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## shawnmasterson (Jan 24, 2013)

to the coment about soldering. Take a look at every router bit and saw blade in your shop. all brazed witch is the same as soldering.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Today I bought some 1/2" round bar, 36" long; figure I can make 2 tools. Does 6" buried in a wood handle sound like enough? That would give me about 12" from handle to tip. I don't have any full size carbide tools so I'm not sure what's normal.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

Rick, that's a standard that I personally go by. 12'' out, 6'' in, set in epoxy. The 6'' in helps reduce a lot of vibration. Just remember that after say 4'' over the tool rest, you will start to loose control. For more control, the 20-24'' handle will make a big difference. Can't say that is a normal but I have made many and have great results with them. Also I usually keep the handles between 1 3/4 and 2'' round. Let us know how it turns out. (heavier the better)


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I took a class from a professional turner (Ron Odegaard, contributor to Woodturning Design magazine) who makes his handles triangular in shape (about an inch-and-a-half thick) with softened corners). At first, it sounded a little odd, but after trying some of Ron's tools, I'm going to do some like his for myself.

I wish I had a picture.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

Dane, that sounds interesting. Is the triangular shape for a better grip? Did they have a taper?


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

The grip on his tools is really comfortable … feels like you have far more control. They are not tapered.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Will do, DD. Planning on making one with a radiused cutter and one with a diamond shape cutter.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Just a quick followup on the triangular tool handles … one reason he does that is so they won't roll off the lathe bed.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

Thanks for the tips and grip Dane, will keep that in mind in upcoming tools, could be handy. Rick M just a FYI, for deeper hollowing I prefer a square bar for better support and control on the tool rest. The round stock is great for tweeking. Again that's just from my experience.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

Dane, I didn't notice that Eddie castelin's prices were for 3 inserts each. So it kind of looks like a wash. I will have to give it a good comparison before my next order. Thanks.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Yeah, round bar was all they had and it was only $5 so I grabbed it.

I'm curious about these triangular handles.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

Yea Rick, I think I'll try one myself. I may be spoiled with the standard round handles, but always keep an open mind.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Did anyone ever try making the triangular handles?

Here are the 2 I made:


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## DW833 (Mar 31, 2013)

This is an old post, but wanted to ask Stumpy if you made your own. Didn't see it on your web site.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Think I'm gonna try making a few of these tools myself. Capt Eddie's web-site ( http://www.eddiecastelin.com ) 
doesn't seem to be working. The link opens, but the page stays blank.
Anybody know if he's still selling tooling and parts?


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

> Capt Eddie s web-site ( http://www.eddiecastelin.com ) doesn't seem to be working. The link opens, but the page stays blank.
> Anybody know if he s still selling tooling and parts?


Yes … 'Management' (Eddie's wife) is taking and filling orders for cutters.

His page works fine on my computer … try refreshing the page … maybe empty your browser cache.


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