# Is this a terrible idea?



## Gabeisafabricator (Jan 17, 2021)

wondering how vulnerable this joint is. I was planning on cutting a lot of the components on my cnc hence the rounded connection. Plan to build out of rift white oak.

thanks


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## Meisterburger (Jun 26, 2020)

It's essentially a dovetail type connection. Just don't make the neck too skinny and fragile


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## Hammerthumb (Dec 28, 2012)

The joint shown would be more susceptible to glue failure and racking than a dovetail joint. I wouldn't use either for this assembly as other joints would be much stronger.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Build *one*. Stack sandbags on it until it fails. Then you will know.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

Too me it looks overly complicated with the puzzle style joints.
I like the overall design of the piece. Instead of trying to invent new joints I think some thru tenons round or square would be nice. And far stronger.


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

The joint is plenty strong.

The top board where it extends downward to meet leg is the weak part. I would shorten it a little.


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## DainCityLJ (Dec 1, 2020)

Racking is the main concern here, single rail at the bottom will not be enough to resist racking. Consider cross bracing the back legs. I think the joint should be okay if the overall structure is beefed up a bit.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

My question would be why use a joint like that in the first place?


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

> My question would be why use a joint like that in the first place?
> 
> - AlaskaGuy


I think to OP indicated that it was no trouble to cut it on his CNC, so why not?


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## Meisterburger (Jun 26, 2020)

He wants his CNC to do the hard part instead of making a mortise, and sizing the tenon perfectly


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

> He wants his CNC to do the hard part instead of making a mortise, and sizing the tenon perfectly
> 
> - Meisterburger


It's just wood and they are making it pretty. Don't over think it.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Make some samples and see how strong the assembly is. You don't have to build the whole desk to make and break a side.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

A mortise and tenon connection is as good as it gets. Since it's concealed it doesn't add a visual distraction to the piece.


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

The problem area is the blue line. When you cut the hole for the round peg, you are cutting that piece in half. Since that piece of wood looks to be only about 4", that doesn't leave much meat. If you would move the peg up into the skirt more(black line), you gain the strength of the whole board.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> My question would be why use a joint like that in the first place?
> 
> - AlaskaGuy
> 
> ...


Well I didn't suggest he not do it, so I won't answer the question "why not". Looking at his handle maybe this is a business, and he's planing a production run. Maybe just because he can. Maybe he's a hobbyist playing with his CNC. Who knows, that is why I asked.


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## Gabeisafabricator (Jan 17, 2021)

The joint shown would be more susceptible to glue failure and racking than a dovetail joint. I wouldn't use either for this assembly as other joints would be much stronger.

- Hammerthumb
[/QUOTE]

racking was my main concern. Thanks for the input


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## Gabeisafabricator (Jan 17, 2021)

> Too me it looks overly complicated with the puzzle style joints.
> I like the overall design of the piece. Instead of trying to invent new joints I think some thru tenons round or square would be nice. And far stronger.
> 
> It is absolutely overly complicated. I was playing around with some CNC joinery ideas and in the end, after running a couple tolerance tests, its just too much of a headache to follow through with. Im still not sure about the top where the legs meet the 'skirt' but I am planning on connecting the bottom stretcher with a double lap joint? (not sure what its called)
> ...


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## Gabeisafabricator (Jan 17, 2021)

> The problem area is the blue line. When you cut the hole for the round peg, you are cutting that piece in half. Since that piece of wood looks to be only about 4", that doesn't leave much meat. If you would move the peg up into the skirt more(black line), you gain the strength of the whole board.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Gabeisafabricator (Jan 17, 2021)

> A mortise and tenon connection is as good as it gets. Since it's concealed it doesn't add a visual distraction to the piece.
> 
> - Aj2


cant argue with that!


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## Gabeisafabricator (Jan 17, 2021)

> My question would be why use a joint like that in the first place?
> 
> - AlaskaGuy


I'm trying to reinvent the wheel here! In all honestly though I was just playing around with designs I could execute with my CNC and came up with this.


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## Gabeisafabricator (Jan 17, 2021)

> He wants his CNC to do the hard part instead of making a mortise, and sizing the tenon perfectly
> 
> - Meisterburger


Im not lazy I swear! In all seriousness I am scrapping this design and going with more traditional (read tried and true) joinery


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## Gabeisafabricator (Jan 17, 2021)

> just a guy who manages a shop with some fancy equipment including a 3 axis cnc which he likes playing around with. Desk is build for my wife as the one she has now was my first ever woodworking project and probably shouldn't be supporting all of her fancy computer stuff.
> 
> My question would be why use a joint like that in the first place?
> 
> ...


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## JohnDon (Mar 14, 2015)

There's a router bit set with your name on it: https://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v139-1775/router-bit-sets


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

CNC's can't cut interior corners to make flat dovetail or keystone joints. So this lollipop joint can be cut exactly on both pieces. The lack of 90° steps strengthens the joint and they should be more resistant to pull out than a regular tab. Especially if both sides are a staggered mirror halflap. In contrasting wood I think it would be a great looking joint.

Build one and let us know what it takes to break. I suspect strength comparable to M&T vs lateral force, and better for pullout. Rotation would be the weakest axis but I think it would be plenty strong under real loads.


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

> The problem area is the blue line. When you cut the hole for the round peg, you are cutting that piece in half. Since that piece of wood looks to be only about 4", that doesn't leave much meat. If you would move the peg up into the skirt more(black line), you gain the strength of the whole board.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I wouldn't totally give up on design.

If you like the way it looks as is, drill it from the top and add a dowel. Would add significant strength and easy to do.


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