# Inset door stop. How do you mount it so the doors close flush with the frame with door bumpers?



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

Silly question, but how do you mount an inset door stop to the back top of the 3/4" face frame so the doors close flush with the frame with door bumpers? Just glue it to the bottom of the countertop set back 1/16" from the back of the face frame? If I secure it flush to the back of the face frame, the doors will be 1/16" proud of the face frame at the top due to the bumper thickness.


----------



## jmos (Nov 30, 2011)

I would just skip the bumper and use a small block of wood as a stop, or you could make a 1/16" notch in the stop so that the bumper is flush with the inside of the face frame. As long as the stop is out of the way, pretty much anything works.

Ball catches also work to keep the door closed and aligned without needing the stop. Although, if you have kids who might push the door in too far you might want the stop anyway to keep the stress off the hinges.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

I was planning on using a small block of wood for the stop, I was just wondering what the easiest way was to accommodate for the 1/16" thickness of the round clear bumpers I will have in the top corner of each door. I'd rather not have to rabbet a 1/16" deep notch, but if that's what you all do, then that's what I'll do.

I'm looking for suggestions on how to set the wood block back 1/16".


----------



## jmos (Nov 30, 2011)

Are you using spring loaded hinges? If not, I really don't see much benefit in using the bumper.

Another option if you're not using spring loaded hinges is putting in a catch, witch will also act as a stop.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

I'm using Salice soft closing euro hinges. Are you saying to not use the bumpers on the door and just let the wood close against the wood stop? Seems like this would scratch things up somewhat over years of use.


----------



## cutmantom (Feb 2, 2010)

i have made stops likes this by rabetting a longer piece of wood and then cutting off the length of stop i want, you could just use a 1/16 shim to get the space you want, also you could rabbet a little deeper and coutersink a screw to give you an adjustable stop


----------



## jmos (Nov 30, 2011)

I'm with you, with spring hinges I can see using the bumpers, not so much for scratching, but for the banging noise when it closes.

I'd go back to relieving the stop block; you could use a forstner bit to remove the 1/16", just get a good grip on the stop with a pliers while drilling, or use hand tools. A band saw can also work safely. I would not try to rabbet with a router or TS on a small piece. If you want to go with a router or TS, make a larger piece you can easily control, then cut off what you need.

Alternately, just add glue on a 1/16" spacer piece to the stop block (you've got to have some cut off lying around, right?) to make the step.


----------



## Wdwerker (Apr 14, 2012)

Make a length of wood with a 1/16 th rabbet down one edge the width of your bumpers. Then cut into smaller blocks to provide the stop. I would put one in the upper and lower corner of the opening. Then you can adjust the hinges to get a flat and solidly supported door when shut.


----------



## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

Make a wooden stop block with slots for the screws, use pan head screws and you will have all the adjustment you need.
Alternatively, use a nail-in plastic shelf support, put the door in position with the buffer on the door and simply nail it in place.


----------



## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

I've done several cabs with inset doors recently and just glue/brad a small block at the top to stop the doors. I use the small, felt, stick on bumpers and they eliminate the closing noise while compressing enough to not worry about the alignment of the doors.

Since perfectly flush alignment is usually not possible, I like to put a small (1/16") round over or chamfer on the door edges and cabinet frame. This makes those small but annoying variations unnoticeable.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

It sounds like a couple of counter sunk screws should do the trick while giving me a little adjustability.


----------

