# Recommendations for Table Saw w/ Dado blades



## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Hi, I'm a beginner to woodworking (other than a Dremel, cordless drill, and circular saw). I am interested in buying either a table saw or CSMS and have been leaning towards the compact (cheaper) table saws like the Dewalt 745. I have about a quarter of a garage for my workspace (due to wife's car and kids bikes).

In researching table saws, I found where some of the Dewalt models will not accommodate (or they do not "recommend") the dado blade. Is there any recommendations out there for compact TS that will accommodate the dado blade…I haven't found an easy way to search and maybe I'm just missing something obvious. The ones I find on Home Depot or Lowe's websites do not mention dado's (other than in the random FAQs).

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Its a bummer about the Dewalt 745 because there was some great feedback left on it, especially how the factory fence was pretty straight (which I know is hard to come by). I am very limited in my skills so I need to start slow into woodworking.

I do realize that the miter saw might be better for me to start with but I tend to have to cut down bigger sheets of 3/4in plywood (usually with a circular saw which I'm not great at yet).

Thanks in advance.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I use sleds on a table saw instead of miter saw. I'd buy an older contractors table saw and take it off the stand before a jobsite saw. Just me.


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## bbasiaga (Dec 8, 2012)

You can always look up the manual online for the saws you are considering. It will tell you if it can take a dado blade or not.

Honestly though, with the smaller jobsites, even my larger portable (Ridgid 4510), I still break down sheets of plywood with my circular saw. Make yourself a straight edge guide, get a couple of clamps and go to town. Without a wide table, space in front of the blade, and and outfeed table, it is still too hard to cut down full sheets on a small saw. Once you have them to manageable sizes, your table saw will be a great tool for working the plywood.

You might consider focusing on the fence quality of whatever you choose. Even if it doesn't take a dado blade, there are ways to cut dados with a standard blade. Look it up on youtube. It may be more time consuming, but pulling your hair out over a fence that can't be made square or won't stay put is way more frustrating.

You can get started and do great work with smaller tools. You just have to know and accept some trade-offs.

-Brian


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

+1 to the Fridge's idea. An older contractor saw, though heavier, could be had at a much lower cost and still be made to take up little space with some creativity. The big plus is a quieter, torquier induction motor, not to mention heavier trunions and a more robust arbor support. I cannot specifically point to which particular contractor saw would work best, but many fellow Jocks have had great success with contractor saws and could point you in the right direction should you find something you think might work for you. Many (not just Dewalt) of the universal motor powered jobsite saws will not allow or recommend the use of a dado blade due to a shorter arbor, lightweight construction and unavailable wide throat plate. Just starting off and the used market can really stretch your dollar a long ways and the resource of people available here to help you do so is second to none, happy hunting.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

Dewalt DWE7490 takes dado blades.


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## Gart (Jul 10, 2014)

The Ridgid 4513 and 4516 portable saws can accommodate a dado set. Some people say to only use a 6" set vs. 8" due to power available and research would need to be done as to how wide of a stack you can put on either of these.

Gart


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

My question is what's attracting you to a portable saw? Do you need portability, or is it price? A full size stationary saw has many advantages over a portable, a lot more operating space in front of the blade, and a lot more growth potential. If price is a driving factor, look to a good used saw.

*The ABCs of Table Saws*

portable:









stationary:


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Thanks for all the great advice so far. I really appreciate the time you all took to respond and am learning with each one.

Knotscott - not sure I have a great answer for you other than I would worry about the upkeep of an older stationary saw (my skills are limited - lol). I'd like to make a stand with casters for it to move around the garage a bit depending on the size of the wood I'm cutting. I noticed a couple of low priced used stationary saws (mostly Craftsman) on Craigslist but the pics alone worry me. Anybody want to take a look at them (7 in all) and tell me what you think?

Should I be worried the motor is laying on top of the table?
http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5438477127.html

Again lots of stuff on the top of this so hard to tell if rusted top. Fence looks like its been modified/improved…
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/tls/5440749771.html

This one doesn't look half bad (a little dirty but…)
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/tls/5438208504.html

This has a tiny stand on it..not many details since only top down shots:
http://smd.craigslist.org/tls/5427383605.html

This is the cleanest of the bunch…
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/tls/5437836272.html

Here's a Delta saw (I know their bigger ones are nice, not sure of the smaller models):
http://smd.craigslist.org/tls/5407981778.html

Another Craftsman (although portable):
http://easternshore.craigslist.org/for/5421451612.html

Once again, thanks so much for your time. Don't look through these links if I'm imposing too much.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

I'm new to all this but have few comments. The Bosch 4100 that I have will accept use of dado blades. And to cut down plywood to size I have some foam board insulation panels that I place on the floor or my workbench so I can use my circular saw with a guide. Much better than trying to deal with saw horses in my (limited) experience. Then I can handle the smaller pieces with my table saw.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

None of the C'mans but the Delta worth a look.
The fences on those old C'man saws are lousy. 
Adding an aftermarket fence system is not worth it.

I think the fence is critical and its the first thing I would look at.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Some of those old Emerson made Craftsman saws you listed are a little rough. The price is attractive, but they'd require some cleanup and effort, and possibly some knowledge of the saws. The motors alone are worth the $50-$75 asking price. At the right price, they can be worth adding a nice aftermarket fence like the Delta T2/T3…HD has them for < $190. That little Delta is their entry level benchtop direct drive saw with universal motor….pass.

Your choices are actually pretty good in your area:

This older Delta contractor saw with a Unifence is a nice saw at a good price IMO. It's more than the beat old Cman saws, but is a lot more saw that should need very little, and doesn't cost much more than a new portable.
http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5440500009.html

This Ridgid R4512 is a nice buy at $290 IMO….cabinet mounted trunnions, nice shape, granite top, mobile base, decent fence, modern riving knife, hybrid design, etc. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/5438417152.html

Ridgid TS3650 for $300…nice saw, fair price, solid wings, good fence, Herculift, homemade router table - http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/5435417224.html

An older Ridgid TS2424 (I think) - Good fence, Herculift, grated cast wings, nice shape, blade guard $300 http://york.craigslist.org/tls/5437725076.html

This Hitachi C10FL is worth $200 - http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5439249959.html

Here's another old Delta with the jetlock fence…I dont' love hte fence but it works, is complete, nice shape, mobile base, asking $275 - $200-$225 would be better IMO. http://lancaster.craigslist.org/tls/5443168750.html

And yet another old Delta w/jetlock fence…not quite as clean, and they're asking more, but @ $200-0$250 its a good deal IMO. http://lancaster.craigslist.org/tls/5426216876.html

Here's an older Ridgid TS2412 by Emerson - A little steep at $300, but a good saw that's worth a look and maybe an offer http://chambersburg.craigslist.org/tls/5396941282.html

Here's a crusty Hitachi C10FL with notable rust…could be a good bartering point for a deal
http://york.craigslist.org/tls/5410816841.html

This Craftsman is worth $150 IMO. You'd still be faced with the old Emerson fence, but it is functional, and can be upgraded for < $200. Nice setup for $300 IMO. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/tls/5437836272.html

This Craftsman contractor saw needs some cleanup, but has an updated fence, and should clean up ok. Worth a look. http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tld/5427575411.html


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

200 for that hitachi seems like a great deal.


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Thanks for the comments on the Hitachi. That is near my location. Is the fence sufficient or would I need an upgrade down the line. I noticed there are mixed reviews on this site on that exact model (although most are at least 3+ stars).

I am looking to stay at $200 or less if possible.

Knotscott - do you think the Hitachi is the best option at $200 or less or would I do better getting CS for $50-$75 and an upgraded T3 fence in about a month?


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## kenthemadcarpenter (Jun 24, 2015)

Find an older craftsman from the 60-70's, they can accept dado blades, and the fences are solid, occasionally you might need to tighten the set screw, but other than that, one of the better saws you can find. I found most of the newer Contractor saws are good for the job site but for the home workshop they are too limited.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Im not certain, but i think the weak point of the hitachi is that the guide rail is 2 piece, so if the two halves are not lined up perfectly your fence could go from parallel to the blade to not parallel as you slide from one half to the other. I think that could be overcome with some tuning.


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## TheGreatJon (Jan 9, 2015)

If you find a used saw with the right size and power for your needs, do not be concerned about surface rust on top of the table. A razor blade, some WD-40, and a scotch brite pad will take care of surface rust in under an hour. Plus, rust is a great way to talk someone down from their asking price.

Important things to check are straightness of the fence, operation of the motor, and ability for the saw to move through its range of motion (tilt + raise/lower). Most everything else can be easily adjusted or repaired.


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## 716 (Nov 22, 2015)

Just buy a router and forget about dado blades. Routers are so much more versatile, although sometimes slower.
Oh about the miter saw. It is nice to have not must have. It is very useful in construction but much less in fine woodworking.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> Thanks for the comments on the Hitachi. That is near my location. Is the fence sufficient or would I need an upgrade down the line. I noticed there are mixed reviews on this site on that exact model (although most are at least 3+ stars).
> 
> I am looking to stay at $200 or less if possible.
> 
> ...


Most owners actually like the Hitachi fence and report that it works well, so while it may not be a Biesemeyer or Unifence, I'd guess the odds of having the urge to replace it are pretty small. "Best" is always subjective….there are always trade-offs in the lower price saws. Having not seen it in person, it looks to be a solid option at $200. Check the blade height mechanisms and be sure to keep it well lubed and clean the saw dust out of it. IMHO it's a lot more saw than a benchtop or portable.

Some of the other sellers might take $200 for one of the Ridgids or older Deltas if the Hitachi doesn't pan out…doesn't hurt to make an offer and tell them that's your budget. That rusty Craftsman for $125 has a decent fence…it should clean up pretty well if the rest of the saw checks out…it just hasn't been kept up very well.

Set aside about $30 for a good main saw blade…the Freud Diablo and Irwin Marples series are both made in Italy and are really good at that price point.

Keep us posted!


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

150$-200$ for a modern fence. My opinion is most fences are crap unless you're spending 600$ on a new saw.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

I have never loved my car so much that I wanted to waste garage space on it.


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

haha. love it.


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Knotscott, my tax refund is almost available and I've got a few more for you to look at if you have the time. No biggie if not.

Delta/Rockwell contractor: http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5453231313.html

Contractor saw with unifence: http://frederick.craigslist.org/tls/5460950115.html

Craftsman with Dayton motor: http://delaware.craigslist.org/tls/5456201196.html

Rigid TS (dark pic though: http://delaware.craigslist.org/tls/5460108941.html

And this one, just cause I thought it was funny: http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5426119536.html

Thanks!


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> Knotscott, my tax refund is almost available and I ve got a few more for you to look at if you have the time. No biggie if not.
> 
> Delta/Rockwell contractor: http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5453231313.html
> 
> ...


Of these, I'd for the Ridgid TS3650 - the rust should clean up fine, it's priced right, has solid cast wings, a good fence, and the Herculift….you can use the dirt/rust as a bartering chip.

They all have potential, but are either priced a little high, and/or could use a fence upgrade. The Delta T3 fence is $183 at HD….great value in a fence, but should be included in the overall price equation. Once you get into the $350-$400 range for saws like these, newer saws start to become more attractive IMO. That old Delta looks pretty rusty, but it will clean up….if the rest of the saw looks good, and you can get the price below $300, I'd consider that one too. It'd take something like a really nice PM64a with Accufence or Vega fence, GI 50-185/50-175, Jet contractor with solid wings and Xacta fence, Delta contractor saw with Unifence/Biese/or T2, Craftsman 22124, Steel City 35601, or a Grizzly G0444Z/G0576/G1022ProZ, etc., before I'd part with much more than $400.


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

So from that dark pic you can make out that it's a TS3650 and herculift? lol

I just saw this one hiding under "table saw"... http://fredericksburg.craigslist.org/tls/5449006427.html


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> So from that dark pic you can make out that it s a TS3650 and herculift? lol
> 
> I just saw this one hiding under "table saw"... http://fredericksburg.craigslist.org/tls/5449006427.html
> 
> - B Woodruff


Yep! The fence and the openings in the wings are tells.

The saw in this link is a good saw too…likely a TS2424. $300 is on the fair side, but no more, and less would be great.

Here's another winner IMO:
http://delaware.craigslist.org/tls/5407996350.html


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Knotscott, guess what I just saw? (get it "saw")...Anyways, tell me what you think of the price (or thoughts to get him lower).

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5446803192.html

PS - I've seen your comments on this saw version and about an upgrade to the fence…and this one does come with a Unifence.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> Knotscott, guess what I just saw? (get it "saw")...Anyways, tell me what you think of the price (or thoughts to get him lower).
> 
> http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5446803192.html
> 
> ...


 I like it…..nice shape, great fence, has the blade guard assembly, and that storage cabinet is awesome. It's a classic Mao Shan Taiwanese contractor saw…Bridgewood, old Jet, old PM, General International Griz, Ohio Forge, AFF, Woodtek, etc. His asking price is fair, but if he'll take less, all the better! It might be hard to see it run since it's not assembled, so not seeing run is a fair bartering point. The extension table is on the left….it's largely a matter of preference but most folks would put it on the right where the most rip capacity usually goes….easy to switch back.

This Ridgid 3612 looks decent too if they'd go down to $275-$300.
http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5463909967.html

1.5hp Rockwell Unisaw. Asking price of $550 isn't bad, but is more than the other saws we've discussed…it's also a lot more saw! Very substantial industrial caliber saw, worthy of any upgrades you'd want. Worth a look and an offer IMO. http://york.craigslist.org/tls/5455790775.html


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Knotscott, thanks for the feedback. I contacted the guy about the Grizzly and this was his reply:

"Actually, I have never had it fully assembled. I bought it from my uncle and then never had the chance to use it. Would you like me to take other photo? I'd be willing to go down to $250."

So while the price is better, I'm a bit hesitant to purchase a saw the owner cannot verify it even works or operate it before I buy. I'll contact the other guy about the Rigid you mentioned above but I doubt he'd be willing to drop $100 off the asking price (but I'll give it a try).

Thanks again for spending so much time on this. I really appreciate your opinion.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> Knotscott, thanks for the feedback. I contacted the guy about the Grizzly and this was his reply:
> 
> "Actually, I have never had it fully assembled. I bought it from my uncle and then never had the chance to use it. Would you like me to take other photo? I d be willing to go down to $250."
> 
> ...


I can understand your hesitation, and it's important to be comfortable with the decision. Keep in mind that at that price the parts are worth nearly the current price, and the odds are in your favor in the condition it's in.

Let us know how things go with the Ridgid.


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Knotscott,

The guy with the Rigid saw said he had somebody interested in the saw but to check back later in the week and if that deal fell though, he might be able to swing me a deal.

With that said…if both the Grizzly G1022 http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5446803192.html and the Rigid 3612 http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5463909967.html feel into my range, which one would you think is the better saw in your opinion.

Thanks!


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> Knotscott,
> 
> The guy with the Rigid saw said he had somebody interested in the saw but to check back later in the week and if that deal fell though, he might be able to swing me a deal.
> 
> ...


Both are in the same class of saw, and they're similar values IMO. There are pros and cons with each.

The Griz has a 15 amp motor, is heavier, has the blade guard, and the Unifence is a nicer fence IMO….it also looks to be in the best shape of those two, but both are really in pretty nice shape. The Griz uses connecting rods between the trunnion brackets, whereas the Ridgid uses a once piece cast piece that's a better design IMO….it's generally not much of a consideration, but the connecting rods can be tougher to get aligned if they're twisted. In the event of them being twisted, it should be a once and done type adjustment….no biggie really. If you like that storage cabinet, that's a plus too….it really looks like someone loved that saw and treated it as such.

The 3612 is made in the US, has a Herculift , can be run tested, comes with the original wings and legstand. It's pretty much a coin toss to me…without seeing them it's a tougher call, but I'd likely be a little more excited about the Grizzly. Look at both and go with whichever makes your heart beat faster. Both nice saws and good deals IMO….a freshly cut board will never know the difference!

If one gets sold, the decision will be easier!

I'm curious what the rest of the gang thinks.


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

LOl. Thanks. that makes it a tougher call. I do like the extras that come with the Grizzly (i.e. storage cabinet, fence, etc) but…

On the other hand I know that Rigid has a lot of followers and comes with a lifetime guarantee (not sure if that is overrated or not). Plus if that guy was willing to knock off $125, it would be pretty sweet!

Thanks again! Tax money is in and I am getting closer. LOL

The rest of the gang might have gotten tired of this conversation. I did reach out to a guy that had a Craftsman Contractor saw for $125 (we referenced it above at the beginning) but that finally sold (I thought he might take $75). lol


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

There's "some assembly required" but I think you're getting more with the grizz and he's already come down to 250. I bet the Ridgid isn't coming down anywhere near that. Does he have all the bolts to put it together? I just noticed I don't see an extension wing for the opposite side. Is there one?


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

In case you're curious about those trunnion differences, here are some pics. The single piece arbor carriage is nicer IMO, but it comes with weaker metal in the trunnion brackets, so it's a one step forward, one step back scenario….not a game change either way, just wanted you to know what I meant when I mentioned the differences.


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

firefighterontheside - I told the Rigid guy my range was $225-250 and I will cut & paste his response:

OK, I have another interested get back to me at end of the week may be able to work something out.

That's got me crossing my fingers.


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Knotscott,

Waiting to hear back from the guy on the Rigid http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5463909967.html. Keeping my fingers crossed.

The guy with the Grizzly works a lot so I cannot seem to catch up with him.

I did find a guy in VA that has a CS Contractor saw (133.298840) http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/5468915934.html. He will go no lower than $100 an then I'd look to upgrade the fence to a T3. Thoughts on this one?

Promise I will make a decision soon. LOL


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> Knotscott,
> 
> Waiting to hear back from the guy on the Rigid http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5463909967.html. Keeping my fingers crossed.
> 
> ...


That old Cman needs a little elbow grease, but it should clean up nicely. The motor is worth nearly the asking price, so very little downside. I'd consider putting a new belt on it. $10 for a good cogged rubber vbelt… $20 or so for a link belt from HF. $100 for the saw, $183 for the fence, and you've got a pretty nice TS with a really good fence for < $300…it's a remarkably similar saw to that Ridgid (both made by Emerson), but I think the Delta T3 fence is better….no Herculift on the Cman though. You can always sell the stock fence for ~ $35-$40, or you can hang on to it if you ever want to resell the saw with the stock fence, and take your T3 with you.

You'll want a decent blade for whichever one you get….they start at around $30.

No commissions going on here….no worries….buy the right saw when you're ready!

Did we talk about this one at all?
http://annapolis.craigslist.org/tls/5472660489.html


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Thanks Knotscott. I already have an Irwin-Marples 50T standing by. Looks like I'll need a blade guard as well.

Also, I've been watching that youtube guy's video on cleaning his cast iron top with mineral spirits and sandpaper (



) while fixing up his unisaw.

Its funny but I don't see any T2 fences for sale (even on ebay). I would have thought I'd find a few at a discount to try and save even more pennies. I know I'm cheap…don't judge. LOL


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Ok, so I'm going to ride out tomorrow and check out the Craftman Contractor saw http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/5468915934.html. (bummer I never heard back from the Ridgid guy). I know that HD has the T3 fence for $183 but my question now is that I see on CL an ad with a guy parting out a Ridgid TS2400 and still has the fence assembly for sale. Can I go the route of saving some $$$ and using that fence or should I just stick to the plan of the T3…. Thoughts anyone?

Knotscott, sorry I didn't see your CL post earlier. I just tried to check it out but its been deleted. Must have been a good deal. I do see a Delta contractor saw but the guy's comments lead me to believe he will not come down in price ($350) anytime soon. https://smd.craigslist.org/tls/5408769868.html


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

The TS2400 is a portable jobsite saw with a shorter fence that I don't think would fit.

The ad with the Delta does say $350 "OBO". I'd think $250 tops with steel wings and that fence, and the condition.

This one is a little crusty too, but will cleanup, is complete, has a Herculift added, and is essentially the same Cman saw you're going to look at. $200 or best offer. http://frederick.craigslist.org/tls/5470234479.html


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Knotscott, how do you find these. What's your secret. I search all over CL for MD, VA, DC, PA area and still miss the ones you find. LOL. Thanks for the find. That one I might be able to get for $150 and not have to spend on a fence. No bad. I'll have to touch base with him. I don't see any indication from the pics if its wired for 220. Do you think offering him $125 is an insult?


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> Knotscott, how do you find these. What s your secret. I search all over CL for MD, VA, DC, PA area and still miss the ones you find. LOL. Thanks for the find. That one I might be able to get for $150 and not have to spend on a fence. No bad. I ll have to touch base with him. I don t see any indication from the pics if its wired for 220. Do you think offering him $125 is an insult?
> 
> - B Woodruff


Can't hurt to ask….I don't think it'd be an insult if you tell him what you're budget is, and what you've been looking at. Then he's free to accept or decline. I'd only only see it as an insult if you had the budget for $500 saw and were just trying to take advantage of him….that's not the case.

How do I find them? Being familiar with the models helps weed through the bad pics and poorly listed saws. I also search from several approaches….I search from "for sale" vs "tools" category, and search for table saw, tablesaw, contractor saw, contracter saw, Delta saw, Sears saw, Ridgid saw, Rigid saw, Jet saw, Craftsman saw, Grizzly saw, Grisly saw, etc….some folks are more creative with their spelling! ;-) (I am having a hard time remembering which ones we've covered though, so apologies for any duplicates)

Another? http://chambersburg.craigslist.org/for/5468083793.html


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Knotscott…check this one out… http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5478654304.html


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> Knotscott…check this one out… http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5478654304.html
> 
> - B Woodruff


Did you buy it?!

*"This posting has been deleted by its author.

(The title on the listings page will be removed in just a few minutes.)"*


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

No. It was too good a deal I guess, since now the link is gone. Getting kind of frustrating because there aren't really any local ones I can see in the evenings, and the last few we discussed the owners were not available on weekends until late..which I couldn't do if I have to drive a few hours roundtrip..and then they sell before I get up there.

I am really leaning towards trying to get a CS Contractor for about $100 and adding a T3 through HD (just better if I use cash for TS and then use HD credit for the fence - keeps the wife happy).

I do see this old 8" CS that has a cast iron stand. http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5467375877.html. Not sure if it's something I should avoid but I have no plans to create furniture. LOL

I did see an amazing deal for a Grizzly for $100 in NJ (http://southjersey.craigslist.org/tls/5481114045.html) that I told they guy I would be up first thing Saturday. However, he said there was a guy stopping by tonight so my bet is it wont be there by tomorrow. LOL

Bummer.


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## pete724 (Mar 9, 2016)

The Dewalt DW745 is not for you if what you are doing is accurate.

I love my DW745 BUT it's too small to be cutting up a lot of large sheet goods(4' x 8').
If you have the space and can build a station around the saw it would do that but you would quickly burn up the saw doing much of that.

Also it WONT take a full 3/4' Dado but mine does take the sbox8 1/4 and 3/8 dado set for making box joints on small stuff just fine.

The fence is both one of the best things about this saw and also one of the worst things about it.
It locks down front and rear. Its easily settable for accuracy.

Gotta jump thru hoops to get things to slide along the fence (tenon jigs etc.) because of the way the back of the fence is made(middle fence part is not even with fence end lock downs) on the back side. and had to remove that goofy flip over thing and clips for the push stick.

Once I took that into consideration I made a box to fit over the fence then made jigs to fit the box.

Its a super little hobby woodworking saw but I wont be cutting of full sheets of plywood with it or any wide dados.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

That old 8" will work, but it'll be harder to find blades for….smaller table, smaller motor. 
Don't get discourage, there are still plenty of options popping up.

Did you see this 10" Cman for $50 with no fence? Same guts as all the other 10" Sears we've discussed. The motor is worth more than the $50 asking price. Even comes with a link belt. http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5438477127.html

Worth an offer of $100ish - http://annapolis.craigslist.org/tls/5470844887.html

A new listing. Clean, no fence, but has the rails for an Alignarip/Exactarip type fence - http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/5481504736.html

Eager to sell. Make an offer - http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5436824686.html

That Griz is still listed. I can't recall what the deal with that one was? Worth another inquiry if they didn't get back to you….sometimes the emails go to the spam folder and don't get seen. http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5446803192.html


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Pete724 - thanks for the comments. I think early on I was interested in the Dewalts but after learning so much with all these responses, I quickly went away from them and am now focuses on contractor saws.

Knotscott - I did see those CS's still listed but was trying to obtain a contractor saw if possible as I thought they were a little more solid/sturdy than the average CS. Am I going off track and focused on the wrong thing? LOL
Thanks for all the guidance and patience.

The CS for $50 - we discussed this one at the beginning of the thread. Looked pretty rough so I was hesitant.

The CS I should offer $100 - does look pretty clean.

The one in Manassas - Kind of a far drive so would have to be a weekend visit. Missing some parts and hardwired so kind of lowers my like of it (even though the pic is great).

I'll make an offer on the "eager to sell" but don't think he will come down to $100 - but I'll try. LOL

I think the deal with the Grizzly was that he had never put it together or run it so he wasn't sure if he had all the parts. He was willing to go to $250 but again, when I tried to visit, he was only home at night - even on the weekends so it was hard for me to drive 2 hrs there and back.


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Knotscott…nobody's returning my calls on the saws listed above. Maybe the warm weather has caused them to take a spring break. LOL

Here are two more that I am trying to look at tomorrow morning. If you have a sec, please share your thoughts.

Delta - http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/5486025219.html

CS w/some blades - http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5486188619.html


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

That Delta w/Unifence is a pretty good deal… better than the C-man IMO. It's OBO, so offer $150. The Unifence alone is worth that.

Cheers,
Brad


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> That Delta w/Unifence is a pretty good deal… better than the C-man IMO. It s OBO, so offer $150. The Unifence alone is worth that.
> 
> Cheers,
> Brad
> ...


I agree. That Delta is a nice deal. I'd jump on that.


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Knotscott/Brad: Thanks - that's what I immediately thought. Now if I can just get out to Virginia tomorrow before anybody else shows up.  LOL

I guess I'm still a little confused (slow on the uptake - lol) on the Craftsmans on CL…are most of them considered "contractor" saws even if they do not have the word "contractor" on the side of them? I guess I was thinking that most of those CS 113's were just regular saws and the contractor versions were slightly more solid. If that's not the case, then I might just take one of the $50 CS and get a T3. Do you feel like we are going in circles Knotscott?


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Both are full size contractor saws. The top dimensions are pretty much identical with standard 3/4" miter slots (main top is 20"w x 27" deep, plus whatever extension wings are added). They both have steel bodies around a belt drive motor and trunnion system. Both have an open splayed leg stand. The stock fences are different, but could be the same. It's a lot like comparing a Chevy Impala to a Ford Fusion….pretty much the same class and capabilities, similar construction philosophies, different brands. The biggest difference in the saws is really the style of the main guts that connect the trunnion brackets, and the motor mount assembly. Other than the trunnion guts and other proprietary add-ons (blade guard), most of the parts could be interchanged with little effort…motor, fence, wings, leg stand, miter gauge, switch.

Delta/Grizzly/PM/Jet:









Cman/Ridgid:


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

LOl. I get that but I think I was having an internal battle on the different versions of the Craftsmans 113s - thinking that a contractor series was a beefier version of the 113s…Like comparing a Camero RS to an SS - same manufacturer..different model.

So with that said…last question: if we weren't taking about money and you had to use a saw to cut up some sheets of plywood or staighten some hardwood with only two options, would you choose:
a - Delta w/unisaw fence
b - CS w/T3 fence
c - doesn't matter, they are both similar


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Mostly C - It's subjective, and there are pros and cons. Delta is right tilt, Cman is left tilt. I think most of the Delta motors are a little beefier, but it's minor (15 amp vs 13 or 14 amp)....AFAIK, both are on a NEMA 56 standard mounting frame. The Delta trunnion brackets are cast iron vs cast aluminum or zinc, but the Cman has a one piece cast system between the brackets vs the rods….that's a wash to me. The Delta motor bracket assembly has more cast iron, but that's kind of a desparation comparison. I suspect the Delta will have higher resale value. Parts might be easier to come by on the Emerson Cman just due to the sheer numbers of the things. The end performance of either will be largely determined by the setup/alignment which includes pulley quality, pulley alignment, and the condition of the actual belt, fence/alignment, and blade choice. It's really a Ford/Chevy kinda thing. In this case, the Delta already has a nice fence mounted, and looks to be in better condition than that last Cman that was posted.

(there are some different 113 Cmans, but I generally steer clear of the smaller 8" models and the direct drive models, so am almost always talking about the full size cast iron Cman contractor saws with the belt drive induction motors)


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Got it, thanks so much!


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Knotscott, I am headed out to Virginia this morning to check out the Delta (the guy said he would accept $150). http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/5486025219.html. He's also going to demo it for me. If that doesn't work out I will head over to see the Craftsman (http://annapolis.craigslist.org/tls/5470844887.html)... but I have a good feeling about the Delta! (fingers crossed).

Now with that said, I noticed a Hitachi C10FL listed for $200 (http://frederick.craigslist.org/tls/5484193577.html). I was re-reading our thread above and you mentioned those were good deals for around $200. Any opinions towards the Hitachi vs the Delta if I can get the Hitachi down to $150?

I know, I know I ask a lot of questions. LOL.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

I'd take the Delta or the Craftsman over the Hitachi. The Hitachi can be a good saw, but it has some nylon or polymer gears that have had some issues, and it doesn't have as much of a track record, has an unusual design, concern with parts availability, etc.

Your plan sounds good….stick with it, and only look to the Hitachi if those other two saws are a bust. Good luck!

p.s. Far better to ask questions now than after!


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

LOL. Perfect. Thanks! Also, that Hitachi looks pretty heavy. ;-)


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

They're all gonna weigh between 250-300#. You can separate the leg stand with 4 bolts, and remove the whole motor assembly pretty easily… then flip the main body, wings, and fence as one unit upside down to transport….I have a minivan and just put a blanket down and slide the whole thing in. If your vehicle won't accept the whole main body as one unit, you can remove the wings and fence too….it's just a lot more bolts to remove.

There's probably gonna be two allen screws holding the Delta motor mount to the connecting rods. Once loosened and the motor unplugged, remove the belt and it should slide right off. The Cman will be held by two bolts that you'll need to loosen…I think they're 12 or 13mm.


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

I have a Tundra with a 5.5 bed. I figured I'd have to remove the legs as well as maybe putting a couple of boxes in the truck for the wings to rest on. LOL.. Glad you mentioned flipping it - that might be a better option.

PS - Guy with the Hitachi said he'd come down to $150 and have 3 guys there to load. This weekend's options are looking better than last week's. Heading out to see the Delta shortly. I'll keep you posted and maybe even upload a pic if I take one home. Her's a pic of the Hitachi top:


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Knotscott - just wanted to update you that I did obtain the Delta over the weekend (woohoo!). I know I will have to post pics before being believed but still re-assembling it. I'm having some issues as the belt is rubbing against the cover. Looks like its been doing that for some time as I see the indentations on the inside of the cover. Once I get all that worked out, I'll be sure to post a pic.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Awesome….congrats on the "alleged" saw! ;-) Looking forward to seeing it setup!


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Any advise on the belt cover rubbing the belt. I've tried loosening the screws but it didn't seem to work. I'm gonna take another run at it tonight.

Also, on the Unifence - when I tested it out before I bought it, I was able to move the back end slightly if I pushed on it. I thought once those things locked down, the weren't suppose to budge all the way down. I'll keep researching it.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

No worries about the fence. Yanking on the back tail of the fence just proves the laws of physics as they apply to leverage…..the vast majority of lateral force that the fence sees in real world action should take place before the blade, not at the back. Push on the fence before the blade and see if you notice much movement….you shouldn't.

Take some pics of the motor and belt….you might be able to slide the motor on the motor plate. You can always remove the belt guard if necessary.


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Ok, so this isn't the best pic of my new Delta table saw, but it will have to do.










I'm not sure why the pic above is sideways, the original pic is not that way.

And below are a few angled pics of where the belt is rubbing the cover:





































Thanks for taking a look. Appreciate any recommendations or thoughts.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

It looks like the motor height needs to come up a little….whether from a shorter belt or an adjustment of the motor on the mounting plate. That belt may be stretched. A new belt is fairly cheap (even a good rubber cog belt should be under $20, and is worth pursuing just to give it a fresh start . HF has link belts for < $25, which would make it easy to shorten the length a tad, and tend to have less vibration. Check that the motor mounting plate isn't bent, and see if there are any adjustments you can make to the belt to lineup better.

You'll also want to get the motor and the arbor pulleys lined up. You can always leave the belt guard off, but it'd be better to get things where they belong.

Which of these pics does you motor hang most like?


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Gosh, last night I would have thought "not pic 1" but now I think it's something in between. It does appear more crooked when the belt is hooked up (pic 1) than without the belt (pic 2) but the mount feels solid.



















Maybe I'm standing crooked when I take the pics. When I review the pics and look at the legs, I appear to be crooked. LOL


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

That doesn't look too bad…slightly crooked. Does it vibrate much?

Replacing the belt is the easy low hanging fruit, so look there first. Check that the pulleys are in good shape, and are in alignment. If push comes to shove, you can always try more desperate things like shimming the mount at the attachment bolts, or even bending it in the opposite direction lightly….dont wanna break it though!


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

To tell you the truth, I haven't started it up since I got it home. I took a day to try and clean out all the sawdust. Then I wiped it down (trying to get my girl all cleaned up before sharing a pic). LOL. Then when I was attaching the motor I saw where it was rubbing the cover and kind of stopped there. I don't really remember it vibrating when I tested it out. I'll try to test it out tonight.

As far as belts, a replacement belt is running about $18 and the link belt at HF is around $26. Any personal preferences?


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

I'd go with the link belt. It should run with little to no vibration, shouldn't ever take a set, and the length is adjustable, which could help with your belt rubbing issues.


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Thanks for all the guidance/suggestions Knotscott. I'm having fun with the saw now!


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> Thanks for all the guidance/suggestions Knotscott. I m having fun with the saw now!
> 
> - B Woodruff


Cool….happy to be part of your quest. I take it you got the fence and belt tension where they need to be?


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## brwoodruff (Jan 30, 2014)

Well….not exactly.

I need to run up to HF (maybe this weekend) and get a link belt. The saw does have some vibe but is working fine for the most part. The fence I have another forum running on it that most people are recommending that I loosen the two big hex bolts/nuts so the fence can run more smoothly down the rail. I myself have come to the conclusion that its probably just me getting use to the saw. I might eventually try playing with the bolts though.


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