# Ripping with a miter saw?



## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

I'm thinking about building a butchers block table. Probably around 24×30". I'm thinking about using 1"x1"x4" maple to form the block. I've never made a butchers block before, but its always been my understanding that the rip cuts are best made via table saw. However, my table saw is 50 years old. Its still pretty capable, but I'm not sure its up to this laborious and finnicky task. 
I'm considering using my miter saw to cross cut the 4/4 boards into 4" sections, then set up a stop block on the miter saw and rip them into 1" blocks. I've never considered using a miter saw for something like this before. I don't even know if it'd work well, or be safe. I'll have to figure out a way to secure the wood so I won't have to put my hands too close to the blade. Any other thoughts?


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

I have a slider mitersaw amd sometimes I'll rip a piece on it. But not a lot of them. I'd use my TS. My TS was made in the 1960s. 
To safely cut small pieces at the mitersaw I use a scrap the same thickness as the stock to be cut. Set it 12"-16" away from the blade, then place a sacrificial piece of wood across the top of the scrap and the piece of stock that needs to be cut. Make sure and place the sacrificial piece of wood against the saw fence and hold it down firmly with you hand (or you can clamp it ) several inches from the blade. Make the cut.

BTW, for small pieces I'll clamp a rip of MDF or plywood to the saw fence on both sides of the blade so the piece doesn't go shooting out the back of the saw. This will also give you a cutting reference to line up the piece to be cut. No laser needed.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Be sure to use a rip blade, and send us the pics after you've recovered.
I'm gonna change your name to "DANGER BOY".
Bill


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## superstretch (Jan 10, 2011)

For things that small, I opt for the band saw.


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

It could be a wee bit dangerous
if it is your only solution
Clamp the piece firmly and use a rip blade

jamie


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

24" x 30" butcher's block…that's a lot of cuts!

I'd use the table saw and miter gauge with sacrificial fence. The miter fence allows for zero clearance on the cut as well as the ability to push the smaller pieces past the blade during the cut. Use a block on the TS fence to set a stop for the width of your repeatable cuts…the cut disengages from the block before it goes through the blade to prevent kickback.

If your table saw cannot make this cut, I think it's time for a new table saw. Table saws that cannot calibrate that precisely are inherently dangerous.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I've ripped short pieces plenty on a slider. It's hard to hold the work, 
but if you set up a workholding jig with hold down clamps it can
work.

I think the table saw is a better tool for making the cut in the 
shop though. Make a jig.


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## fussy (Jan 18, 2010)

Put a good blade on your tablesaw and do it like they said above. By the time you jig up everything you need (don't forget Murphy; every thing you add adds a chance for inaccuracy or disaster) and don't force it. Your old saw will do it. Mine was built in '71 and it has more guts than a butcher's dog. Stay safe. Just because something CAN be done, doesn't mean it SHOULD be done.

Steve


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## CDorsey (Aug 7, 2010)

Go with the table saw and use a blade with a thin kerf. Also if you have a 10" saw try using an 8" blade. No sense in making your saw work harder turning a larger blade when you don't need the depth of cut.


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## KnotWright (Nov 6, 2008)

I wish I had the photos to show you what happens when you try to rip things with a miter saw. One of my helpers was doing just that without me knowing it. Luckily he wasn't hurt, but the window in the shop along with the saw didn't fair so well. I still keep what's left of the saw in the shop to remind everyone not to attempt that. It bent the saw blade and torn off the guard.

So I'm with the rest of the guys here, go the table saw route for your ripping. Install a good sharp blade before you start.


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

I have ripped very small pieces on my miter saw and like Loren said, its hard to hold the work. I have also ripped small pieces with my Radial arm saw by pulling the arm through rather then pushing the wood. No matter what happens I don't take my eyes off the blade and my fingers.

I agree with the others on using the table saw though. Especially if its more then a couple cuts. I have only used my miter saw and RAS to rip when its been 1 or two small cuts.


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## Schoey (Nov 19, 2008)

Danger Will Robinson!! Don't do it! Use a tool they were intended to be used and you will lower your chances of being a statistic.


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## MrWoodworker (Apr 18, 2011)

Not worth it! Use the right tool for the job. If your saw is that worn out, try to find one you can borrow.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I tried this once and decided I shouldn't be doing this. Just too much risk involved. Things happen so fast you don't have time to think about pulling the hand back from the blade until after the fact. Use another tool.


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## SCR0LL3R (May 28, 2010)

What exactly happens when ripping on the miter saw that makes it dangerous? I'm not criticizing, I really would like to know since I don't have a table saw but I do have a miter saw and was hoping to be able to cut up pen blanks with it.


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

What happens is since the blade is spinning away from you, if the material to be cut moves in the *slightest way* the blade will want to eject the material and with things flying around really fast your fingers could end up being struck by the saw blade. *Has I stated in comment #1, I would use the tablesaw for this endeavor.* If you do not fully understand all the psychics invloved that are taking place when attempting such a cut you are better using another tool.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

" If you do not fully understand all the *psychics* invloved that are taking place when attempting such a cut you are better using another tool."

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This hobby has gone from physics to metaphysics for Darrell! LOL!

To answer Keith's question, I've played the ducking game before by cutting small pieces. It's those "oh crap" moments when you know are loosing control and you hit the floor because you don't know where it's going to go…which is normally UP into the saw itself only to ricochet in any direction possible.

I've had this occur when using holddowns as well, so it's not a guarantee…normally because I forget to stop the saw blade before I pull it up…which is the normally way to use such a saw, but I often forget.

There may be less of an issue when using a slider saw, but a chop saw will definitely cause problems when you lift the spinning blade…it's not hard to remind yourself to keep the saw down on a few cuts, but not always when you make a ton of them.

And I like my fingers too much to hold them an inch from the blade, so that just shouldn't be an option.


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

For some of us this is not a hobby.

And as mentioned above, comment #1. So one doesn't have an "oh crap" moment, use a sacrificial fence clapmed to your mitersawsaw fence. this will keep the little pieces from "shooting out the back" and gives a point of referce for the next cut.

If one is not paying 100% attention while operating a saw blade (even a handsaw) they sould be doing something else until they can fully concentrate on the task at hand.

I never under any circumctance place my fingers closer than 6" from the blade of a mitersaw. In all my years of operating woodworking tools I've seen the mitersaw get more fingers than even the tablesaw.


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## MrWoodworker (Apr 18, 2011)

"I never under any circumstance place my fingers closer than 6" from the blade of a mitersaw. In all my years of operating woodworking tools I've seen the mitersaw get more fingers than even the tablesaw."

Amen to that. The OP was talking about some fairly small pieces, not much margin of error there. When things go wrong, they go wrong FAST!


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

Thanks for the replies fellas. Sounds like there is no reasonably safe, practical way to get his done with the miter saw. I'll have to put this one off until I'm better equipped.


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

I regularly cut tiny pieces at the mitersaw. Making reapetitive cuts down a piece of stock to the very end. The trick is use a piece of sacrificial wood to hold the material to be cut in place not letting it move, any.

Remember we're suppose to cut wood not fingers. On the topic of safety, I generally observe that rule that "If your not sure about what you're about to do is safe, then find another way to do it".

Tedstor; I see that we were typing at the same time. I tried thr cancel button but it doesn't remove a post. The tablesaw is the best tool for ripping. The mitersaw is better suited to crosscut. If you want, someday I'll post a picture showing how to cut small pieces at the mitersaw.


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

Thanks Devann
My initial thought was to place a 4-6" scrap of MDF on the workpiece, and hold it down with a large C-clamp I have. I definitely never had any intention of placing my fingers <1>m abandoning the idea.
But, you never know. Someone might have unveiled some revolutionary technique or jig they use for this type of thing. Never hurts to ask.


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