# Refinishing a Craftsman 113.298032 table saw



## wmlaveck (Oct 10, 2009)

A few days ago I purchased a used Craftsman table saw ($100). The top needs to be refinished and the saw needs a complete cleaning. I think the top came painted from the factory. What is left is have of the paint and light rust. I am thinking of starting with my orbiter sander with 220 paper to remove the paint. Then finish with Scott's pads, oil and then wax. On the underside I am thinking of using Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer or the kind of primer that converts the rust into a black polymer, then top coat. What kind of lube would you recommend for the moving parts? I welcome any feedback.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

I like to use white lithium spray on grease for moving parts. It's easy to apply, dries hard, and doesn't attract dust.

I don't know who well wax will stick to an oiled surface. Use mineral spirits with the sandpaper and Scotchbrite pads, then wipe it down well. For bare cast iron surfaces, I like to use Boeshield T-9 as a rust preventer….spray a light coat, wipe it off, buff it and let it dry well before waxing.

Take pics!


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## wmlaveck (Oct 10, 2009)

Thanks Knotscott. I will stay with mineral spirits. Will take and post pics soon.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

you might want to check out hte youtube videos done by steve shanesy of popular woodworking in rehabbing an old unisaw. while the specifics won't apply, the cleaning and lubricating work methods will apply to all saws.






BTW, shanesy makes a point of not using any grease based products in lubricating the undertable mechanisms as grease will hold onto sawdust. i use a dry lubricant sold at HD under the "PB" name. works extremely well and easy. spray on, let dry overnight and you're done. lasts for months and months. and i'm with knotscott on those pics. hopefully, you'll post before and after shots.


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## wmlaveck (Oct 10, 2009)

Here are some pictures as I continue to work on my table saw. I have most of the excess rust removed from the underside of table. This afternoon I'll be applying the first coat of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. After the second coat I am going to use Rustoleum oil top coat, very dark gray. I could use some help on how to dissemble the inside workings, saw arbor, cradle and etc. (I'm not sure of table saw part names.) I was able to remove the screw that controls tilt. But I am not sure how to remove the elevator screw. I think that I have to remove the cradle first (the part with gears meeting the screw). I am thinking to get the best result I will hand sand the top so grain, sand marks are all in one direction. With the two wings, I'm not sure if I should strip them down to raw metal, sand and wax. Or if I should spray paint them. Will the paint finish hold up to repeated use? Any parts that I paint I will use quality paint and allow a full week to cure. I know that Craftsman is not the top of the food chain, but it's a great leap past my dead Ryobi.


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## wmlaveck (Oct 10, 2009)

Here are more pictures as I learn to use photobucket.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Did someone paint the cast iron at some point?


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## wmlaveck (Oct 10, 2009)

I think it came from the factory painted, but not sure.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I don't think I have ever seen a Craftsman cast iron table that came painted. I will quickly admit I have not looked at all of them ever sold but I don't think I have seen one myself. I think someone has painted that table.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I don't think I have ever seen a Craftsman cast iron table that came painted. I will quickly admit I have not looked at all of them ever sold but I don't think I have seen one myself. I think someone has painted that table. I don't like painted tables because it often rubs off anc stick to the wood.


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## wmlaveck (Oct 10, 2009)

Grandpa,
I suspect that you are correct. I will not remain painted.


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## mikema (Apr 27, 2011)

I am with Grandpa as well, I have the same TS, and the cast iron top is definitely not painted. I am wondering if that is paint, or some sort of coating that tarnished the top. Either way, I would use a high number grit sand paper and start evenly sanding that surface until you have a good one to work with again. Just take care that you don't over do it any one spot to take the surface out of flat.

Word of advice, I just had to replace the pulley on my TS. You may want to be proactive and replace the one on yours while you have it apart, as it will go a lot easier now then later. I ordered a replacement one from grizzly, and I will say they are much better made.


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

I don't think these 113 saws are painted from the factory.
Only the stamped metal wings are.

You are a brave man to take all the trunnion assembly. I am debating if I want to take the time to take mine TS apart. On assembly you will need to consider the following:

#Arbor flange/blade alignment with the tracks to ensure they are parallel. The bolt hole will get you close but you may have to make a few taps.
#Check/flatten the flange while you at it. It will ensure your blade will be true and to eliminate wobble.
#Flatten the washer also.
#Another thing you might want to check before final re-assemble is how far the arbor will crank down.
Some of these 113 saw won't crank as far down to better accomodate zero cleance inserts.
Often I used the TS as a temporary table, so it is nice to able to lower the blade well below the table surface. I am not sure what is the best way to address this. Redo the srew position or to shim the trunnion assembly so that it sits lower.

Keep us update, I could use some tips. Maybe you could get me motivated to do mine.

Good luck.


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## RibsBrisket4me (Jul 17, 2011)

True hopks….I put a circ saw blade on mine to get the blade low enough for the zero clearence insert.


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

Oh yea, check the flatness of your top. I is amazing that some of these may be warped. I wouldn't good news but you then know what you are dealing with.


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## wmlaveck (Oct 10, 2009)

High Everyone,
I hope that you can forgive me as it has been about two years since I last posted. I had managed to take every part off and thoroughly clean them. But then I got side tract and some minor health trouble slowed me down. I think I also feared that I would not be able to put it back together properly. Anyhow, I almost have it together (table saw, not myself). I still need to finish the top and put the wings on. I have the cheaper wings that are pressed steel and not cast iron. As these wings are lighter, I am wondering if I might mount them using a piano hinge so I can fold them down when the saw is not in use. I will get back with some more news and pics asap. I am looking forward to making sawdust once again


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## wmlaveck (Oct 10, 2009)

OK, I have a question. Would it be helpful to place hard rubber washers were the table top meets the cabinet and where the cabinet joins the legs? Will this help to block vibrations?


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## TiggerWood (Jan 1, 2014)

I switched to a link belt and there is no vibration.


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## wmlaveck (Oct 10, 2009)

Need help: I am trying to install the lift screw. The Craftsman manual shows it as interring from the back. It only enters about two inches, just to the edge of the opening. I have tried removing the arbor so as to enter in the other direction, but that also does not work. I tried tapping it lightly. The last thing I want to do is cause damage.

GOT IT: I think the problem was that the first cut grove for the C clip got a little damaged. It seems to be a little raised on the edges. Because of this, I entered from the other direction and a few taps of a plastic mallet did the job. I now just need to put the two C clips in place.


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## bobkberg (Dec 26, 2009)

Hi William,

We're in a roughly similar position (See my post on the Robland X31). For the extension wings, I would first recommend that you look at making sure that any mounting scheme you use will take the load likely to be placed on the wings rather than being concerned about the wings themselves.

That said, unless you will need to move the TS around a lot, I would favor a plywood top meant to be aligned with the TS top with pegs and bolts, and have collapsible hinged legs.

Good luck,


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