# Routing a rabbit in MDF



## Walt447 (Aug 18, 2010)

I am in the process of making a sanding vacume box. The plans call for a box of 3/4 MDG with a perferated top secured to the top with screws. I would like to place a recessed set of pererated boards to make the project better. However I did assemble the box before I cut the rabbit. I was wondering if I could safely use a trim router with a rabbiting bit and a fence to do this? I would appriciate any input. I have done this on a router table in the past but my portable router experience is limited to DADOS.
Walt


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## Walt447 (Aug 18, 2010)

I plan to make an base that will span the box to support the router.The rabbit will be 1/2 in deep to accept 1/2inch MDF


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## Walt447 (Aug 18, 2010)

Started to follow some plans and then realized it would be better with a rabbit. I want to make the box as air tight as possible. The plans call for a flush butt jointed bottom and I think it would be better and tighter with a rabbit. Should have done it before. That what happens when you follow directions without reading through them fully.


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## smitty22 (May 1, 2010)

The rabbet joint will definitely be better for that application, but I've discovered that MDF is hard on regular router bits, not sure how the carbide react to MDF though.


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## Triumph1 (Dec 20, 2009)

How come you just don't do it on your router table? Are you just wanting to try out a new technique?


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## Walt447 (Aug 18, 2010)

Jeff The box is assembled and it is 18 in. w 27 in long 6 3/4 deep. Kind of hard to work it on the router table. I would still have to square up the corners. I have seen this process of routing a rabbit in a box on the Wood Smith shop videos but they did it with Baltic Birch


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## Radu (Jan 25, 2010)

Here is just a thought. Cut some 1/2" x 1/2" strips out of MDF and glue / nail them inside the box to form a lip for your top board to rest on.

Edited:
You can make you top board a little bigger (say 1/2" on each side) and set the strips, so it fits like a lid (I hope it makes sense what I'm trying to say).


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## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

+1 for Radu's comment/suggestion, but solid stock would be better-1/2×1/2 MDF will distort where you nail and not want to be straight.

Use a marking gauge or adjustable square to strike your line, then apply 1/2×3/4 strips for your ledger. If you have a brad nailer, that will work well; if not, just clamping carefully and walking the piece along the line will suffice. This project is not for your PhD in physics-it's a tool, and it will work well, and we're sworn to secrecy about how that perf top is supported.

Incidentally, don't use the gravel paint that some kit mfrs recommend unless you're sanding stuff that always has a bad side. I recommend Dri-Dek or a similar product over the top. It holds stuff in place yet won't scar it at all. Comes in 12×12 pieces that interlock. You can screw it down through the tabs on one side only and it will stay in place.


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## zonkers (Aug 18, 2010)

Dri-Dek, Now that smart!


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## Walt447 (Aug 18, 2010)

Update: I completed the rabbit last night with the use of the Aux. base that spaned the box. It came out perfect. It Took me 5 mins to cut the rabbit and 35 mins to clean up the mess. Routing MDF creats far more dust and chips than any type of wood. This project is a sanding box and it will now be much more air tight with the rabbit but any future milliing or MDF will be done at the Router Table or out side the shop… It is Imparitive that you ware a resperator. I had to change my cartriges after this process. I will try to post some pictures when I get the time. Tonight we glue in the bottom and install the internal baffels. Should be done by the weekend.


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## Walt447 (Aug 18, 2010)

RADU
Your suggestion is exactly what I plan to do to the top. I also plan to place some weather striping on the inside of the lid to form a more air tight structure


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## Radu (Jan 25, 2010)

Walt,
I'm glad you got it figured out. Great job. It'll serve you well.


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