# Jigs etc.



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

*Mitre Jigs*

Here are the mitre jigs (sleds) that I use for my box sides. The first is a typical 45 degree job with a square blade guard, there is a stop block underneath (not shown).










There are two additional features however. The first are the two clear perspex stops, for repeatability of cut length, nothing unusual there.










The second is something I've started to use to prevent tear out of the end grain on the mitred end. These are adjustable sacrificial jaws attached to the outsides ouf the mitre arms. These are Iroko but any scrap timber, or MDF, will do.










I find that however well adjusted the blade is, for squareness, over a period of time the tips of the mitre arms (where the blade passes through) will wear and the gap become wider. This leads to tear-out of the end grain on the inside of the mitre on the box side being cut. Even with an 80 tooth blade. At the beginning of doing a batch of sides I bring both jaws into the centre of the saw cut region (loosen cross-head screws, move jaws in, tighten cross-heads). Having squared up the blade beforehand I do a pass with no timber on the jig to open up the jaws again. Each time this is done the jaws are good for cutting about a dozen boxes worth of sides, with no tearout.

The second jig is the 60/30 degree one I used for the Vanishing Point box. It has a stop block underneath (not shown).










As its a fresh jig there are no sacrificial jaws fitted yet. However I've used the rear section for a dust extraction port this time.










I've also used the fact that there is active dust extraction (and therefore partial vacuum) to provide a degree of holding for the box side being cut.










The three holes (3mm diametre) are bored through the whole depth of the mitre arm and allow the 'borrowing' of some of the vacuum of the dust extractor to hold the piece being cut onto the mitre arm.
My next project is to adapt the first jig for dust extraction/vacuum holding. After that possibly an adjustable angle jig.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Mitre Jigs*
> 
> Here are the mitre jigs (sleds) that I use for my box sides. The first is a typical 45 degree job with a square blade guard, there is a stop block underneath (not shown).
> 
> ...


looks pretty * atomic* !

great jigs ,
and the under stop idea is great ,
for those absentminded cuts .

thanks for sharing !


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Mitre Jigs*
> 
> Here are the mitre jigs (sleds) that I use for my box sides. The first is a typical 45 degree job with a square blade guard, there is a stop block underneath (not shown).
> 
> ...


Well spotted David!


----------



## Ger21 (Oct 29, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Mitre Jigs*
> 
> Here are the mitre jigs (sleds) that I use for my box sides. The first is a typical 45 degree job with a square blade guard, there is a stop block underneath (not shown).
> 
> ...


The sacrificial faces are an outstanding idea. Some day, when I make a sled, I'll be sure to incorporate them. If I remember. 

Well Done.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Mitre Jigs*
> 
> Here are the mitre jigs (sleds) that I use for my box sides. The first is a typical 45 degree job with a square blade guard, there is a stop block underneath (not shown).
> 
> ...


Sweet. I also have a 45 miter sled and find it very useful. I like the replaceable faces and under sled stop block too. Good thinking.

I never thought to apply it to a 60/30 sled. Again, you are a clever guy. Any hints on how to get it set to 30/60? I guess if you have one set, the other follows, but how to get the first set? Trial and error certainly works.

Steve


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Mitre Jigs*
> 
> Here are the mitre jigs (sleds) that I use for my box sides. The first is a typical 45 degree job with a square blade guard, there is a stop block underneath (not shown).
> 
> ...


Steve. Assuming you already have a base attached to its runners first make sure the blade is set parallel to your mitre guage runners (slots). Cut a full slot into the base using the saw's blade. I set the 60 degree side up first. Having already cut the end of the mitre arm to 60 degrees using my saw's mitre guage i put a strip of double sided tape along it's bottom face. With the sled pushed fully forward set the tip of the 60 degree side to the position where the blade is at max. height. Using a protractor or a similarly cut sheet of scrap set the mitre arm at 120 degrees to the blade. Stick the arm down. Drill and screw the arm to the sled from the underside. Cut the 30 degree arm to 30 degrees at its end and tape up the underside. Using your best wooodworkers square to set it 90 degrees from the 60 degree side. Stick down and screw home as before.

Martyn


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Mitre Jigs*
> 
> Here are the mitre jigs (sleds) that I use for my box sides. The first is a typical 45 degree job with a square blade guard, there is a stop block underneath (not shown).
> 
> ...


great ideas, i like the one with the dust extaction.


----------



## Cozmo35 (Feb 1, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Mitre Jigs*
> 
> Here are the mitre jigs (sleds) that I use for my box sides. The first is a typical 45 degree job with a square blade guard, there is a stop block underneath (not shown).
> 
> ...


It looks like you put a lot of thought into the design of these jigs! I am sure it will carry through to your boxes.


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

*The old 60°*

Some of you have been wondering how I finish pieces to exactly 60° for my Impossible series. Basically I cut them to 60° on the tablesaw, a little oversize (experiment) and then finish sand them on the drum sander using this Jig. It works equally well on a planer/thicknesser.



















Fairly simple to make. You take a rectangular section of timber (lumber). Shorter in thickness than the width of the piece you are planing/sanding. Set your tablesaw blade to precisely 60°. I use a vernier protractor these days but the kind of set square you find in a school geometry set works almost as well. Saw through the length roughly in the centre of the wood.










Flip one piece 180° lengthways, so that they both have their larger end downward.



















And screw them to a piece of MDF. The next bit is very important. Attach an end stop at one end to prevent the timber you are planing/sanding from shooting back and hitting you in the gut (or worse). Like so










Its painful. I speak from experience. This end will obviously be the one closest to you and the back end as the work goes through your machine. Thats it. Just place the thing to be machined to 60° in it and plane/sand.

As my friend from comparethemeerkat.com would say 'Simples!'


----------



## scrollgirl (May 28, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *The old 60°*
> 
> Some of you have been wondering how I finish pieces to exactly 60° for my Impossible series. Basically I cut them to 60° on the tablesaw, a little oversize (experiment) and then finish sand them on the drum sander using this Jig. It works equally well on a planer/thicknesser.
> 
> ...


This is so cool! Isn't is wonderful when something so simple can make things so much better? What a great tool Martyn. It is great for you to share it with everyone!

Sheila


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *The old 60°*
> 
> Some of you have been wondering how I finish pieces to exactly 60° for my Impossible series. Basically I cut them to 60° on the tablesaw, a little oversize (experiment) and then finish sand them on the drum sander using this Jig. It works equally well on a planer/thicknesser.
> 
> ...


Sweet. Simple enough. I like it.

Someone ought to perform a comparison of a rotating power tool ejecting a piece of wood with a trebuchet, and see which will throw it farther.

Steve


----------



## blockhead (May 5, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *The old 60°*
> 
> Some of you have been wondering how I finish pieces to exactly 60° for my Impossible series. Basically I cut them to 60° on the tablesaw, a little oversize (experiment) and then finish sand them on the drum sander using this Jig. It works equally well on a planer/thicknesser.
> 
> ...


A nice simple solution Martyn. Thanks for sharing!

*Steve*- I like that idea!


----------



## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *The old 60°*
> 
> Some of you have been wondering how I finish pieces to exactly 60° for my Impossible series. Basically I cut them to 60° on the tablesaw, a little oversize (experiment) and then finish sand them on the drum sander using this Jig. It works equally well on a planer/thicknesser.
> 
> ...


Martyn, 
Thanks for the idea of this jig, I tried this one with trapezoidal at 95 degrees and 85 degrees angle (yours 60 deg.) but I was not so sucessful. I just planed it manually which is more tiring and adjusted it with a filing, Your idea had put a light on my next move when I do the rectangular design. Now, I have already realized how really difficult those projects you do. A little mistake will let you do it again. In fact, I am very selective now with the wood I used. Endgrain cuts can easily breaks when cutting it to shape. Thanks for postiing your jigs.
Cheers,


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *The old 60°*
> 
> Some of you have been wondering how I finish pieces to exactly 60° for my Impossible series. Basically I cut them to 60° on the tablesaw, a little oversize (experiment) and then finish sand them on the drum sander using this Jig. It works equally well on a planer/thicknesser.
> 
> ...


AH !

RIG - A - JIG

this one is right up there

with

SOAP - ON - A - ROPE

a classic for sure


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *The old 60°*
> 
> Some of you have been wondering how I finish pieces to exactly 60° for my Impossible series. Basically I cut them to 60° on the tablesaw, a little oversize (experiment) and then finish sand them on the drum sander using this Jig. It works equally well on a planer/thicknesser.
> 
> ...


Simplicity are the key, you opened the door.
Really nice and simple solution.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *The old 60°*
> 
> Some of you have been wondering how I finish pieces to exactly 60° for my Impossible series. Basically I cut them to 60° on the tablesaw, a little oversize (experiment) and then finish sand them on the drum sander using this Jig. It works equally well on a planer/thicknesser.
> 
> ...


I am the stupid in KISS (keep it simple stupid)


----------



## RonPeters (Jul 7, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *The old 60°*
> 
> Some of you have been wondering how I finish pieces to exactly 60° for my Impossible series. Basically I cut them to 60° on the tablesaw, a little oversize (experiment) and then finish sand them on the drum sander using this Jig. It works equally well on a planer/thicknesser.
> 
> ...


Cost to do the repair $300…

$1 for the part…

$299 for knowing how to do it…!


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *The old 60°*
> 
> Some of you have been wondering how I finish pieces to exactly 60° for my Impossible series. Basically I cut them to 60° on the tablesaw, a little oversize (experiment) and then finish sand them on the drum sander using this Jig. It works equally well on a planer/thicknesser.
> 
> ...


?!


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *The old 60°*
> 
> Some of you have been wondering how I finish pieces to exactly 60° for my Impossible series. Basically I cut them to 60° on the tablesaw, a little oversize (experiment) and then finish sand them on the drum sander using this Jig. It works equally well on a planer/thicknesser.
> 
> ...


Thanks Dennis I get the joke, now. Doh!


----------



## lumberdustjohn (Sep 24, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *The old 60°*
> 
> Some of you have been wondering how I finish pieces to exactly 60° for my Impossible series. Basically I cut them to 60° on the tablesaw, a little oversize (experiment) and then finish sand them on the drum sander using this Jig. It works equally well on a planer/thicknesser.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the post.
I will try this soon


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

*Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*

Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.

This is it










Its just a sheet of 6mm Perspex with three slots cut in it and a 6mm pin inserted in a tapped hole. The two outer/rear slots for mounting and the front/central slot to clear the router bit.

Thats it! Its nothing new. I'm sure many have been made like this before. I show this only because there may be many out there new to woodworking and it bears repeating for their sake.

The only point worthy of note is that the knobs securing the jig to the router table are to the rear of the router bit (on the opposite side of the bit to the pin) in order to allow 360° rotation of the piece being cut.

Dimensions are to suit your particular router table. I use a 6mm spiral bit for clean edge cuts. The tasteful reflections are an optional extra.

An extra couple of shots, without reflections showing without workpiece










and with workpiece.










Simples!.

Be seeing you.


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


Range of cut on this one is from 25mm to 250mm radius. Incidentally you don't need much material to the jig in front of the pin (part closest to the operator) as 50% of the workpiece is on the jig between the pin and the router bit.


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


Looks good Martyn

Thanks for sharing


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


You just can't beat the Kiss principle. Thanks for sharing, Martyn.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


I like the perspex idea…


----------



## mikethetermite (Jun 16, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


I made a circle jig for the band saw where the pin moved. (Much like degoose and dustbunny made). Yours is so Simple, clean and easy to use. I'll have to try one on the router.

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


Martyn, you do make life easy and simple…. but you make my mind spinning out what circle design and construction you are up to… hah? Thanks for this jig.


----------



## headkeep (Aug 4, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


Hi, I'm really not comfortable using a router but, I do have one. Anyway, I'm having a hard time visualizing how to use this jig. It seems I need to cut circles quite often and they come out, well, like crap! So, I actually can use this if only I could properly visualize it in operation. Anyone got a video to post showing something like this? Thanks!


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


Thanks all.

*Dan*, I realise the perspex doesn't make it easy to see how to use it. I'll try and get an MDF model together in the next few days with some step by step stuff. Don't know about video though. I haven't got into that yet.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


Neat. I like the clear plastic. You keep it nice and simple.
And I am glad you don't have to skin anymore cats, that is a bad visual.

Now I keep wondering what you are up to.
Steve


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


nice martyn
i like the way you think
all the way through
until it is down to it's simplest form

thanks


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


Nice and simple, just the way we love it!
You rock my friend.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys. Simple always seem to be best and in this case perspex was a better mount for the post than mdf of the same thickness. I like perspex too.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


Very good jig Martyn. This one looks a lot safer than many others I've seen. Thanks.


----------



## SawTooth1953 (May 7, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


I've seen a lot of jigs for a lot of things, but this type of circle jig for the router table is new to me. Thank you very much for show this to us.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


That is slick and simple, Martyn. On the router and on the bandsaw fixture, how do you start the cut on the bigger diameter? Do you touch the part and slide it in to radius you want of set the radius and then?? Thanks, Jim


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


Yes, Jim. That's about it.


----------



## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


Martin: I just made a similar one but How do you keep the pin from moving?
My pin is fixed but I want to adjust it..
TNX


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


The pin is fixed (6mm thread, tapped) into the perspex sheet. It's distance from the routing bit is adjusted by moving the whole sheet to/from the bit, locking it down to the table using the two black knobs to the rear(top of the picture) of the router table top, abie.


----------



## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


TNX Martin
Mine is indeed adjustable I just forgot.
TNX


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Simple Circle Cutting Jig for the Routing Table*
> 
> Hello all. I'm about to make a small box featuring curves. Something I don't do often. Curves that is, not boxes and it occurred to me to feature the jig I will be using to build it with. Yes I know I've recently posted a couple of circle jigs for the bandsaw but there is more than one way to skin a cat and its always useful to have an alternative to call on.
> 
> ...


Thats OK.

As I mention in the text, as the jig is clear, these things are not so easily visible.


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

*Snakes and Ladders - Hinge Template Routing Jig*

I'm just going to let the pictures tell the story here. The only things I will say is that the template guide pin must be exactly the same width as the router bit used (6mm in this case) and the minimum hinge pin width is also dictated by the router bit used. This is the test run with a 115mm square x 6mm thick piece of MDF being routed. No, even I don't trust the actual pieces I am working for a project to the first run with a new jig.
The templates were marked out, using a knife, on a single piece of perspex (plexi-glass), the sheet cut in half and opposing 'fingers' cut out. Once these two pieces mesh all joints routed with them should fit and be identical. This jig could also be used for finger joints (box joints).

















































































































































The name, as with most of my jigs, comes from things associated with atomic weapons and their testing. Not in glorification of this but more in the hope that something positive can be achieved under the same name.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Snakes and Ladders - Hinge Template Routing Jig*
> 
> I'm just going to let the pictures tell the story here. The only things I will say is that the template guide pin must be exactly the same width as the router bit used (6mm in this case) and the minimum hinge pin width is also dictated by the router bit used. This is the test run with a 115mm square x 6mm thick piece of MDF being routed. No, even I don't trust the actual pieces I am working for a project to the first run with a new jig.
> The templates were marked out, using a knife, on a single piece of perspex (plexi-glass), the sheet cut in half and opposing 'fingers' cut out. Once these two pieces mesh all joints routed with them should fit and be identical. This jig could also be used for finger joints (box joints).
> ...


That's a fine precision jig Martyn.

Incidentally, something very positive has already been achieved under that name ;-)


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Snakes and Ladders - Hinge Template Routing Jig*
> 
> I'm just going to let the pictures tell the story here. The only things I will say is that the template guide pin must be exactly the same width as the router bit used (6mm in this case) and the minimum hinge pin width is also dictated by the router bit used. This is the test run with a 115mm square x 6mm thick piece of MDF being routed. No, even I don't trust the actual pieces I am working for a project to the first run with a new jig.
> The templates were marked out, using a knife, on a single piece of perspex (plexi-glass), the sheet cut in half and opposing 'fingers' cut out. Once these two pieces mesh all joints routed with them should fit and be identical. This jig could also be used for finger joints (box joints).
> ...


Ah yes, Paul. I was forgetting the two-piece swim suit. Thanks for reminding me. Hmmmmmmmmm


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Snakes and Ladders - Hinge Template Routing Jig*
> 
> I'm just going to let the pictures tell the story here. The only things I will say is that the template guide pin must be exactly the same width as the router bit used (6mm in this case) and the minimum hinge pin width is also dictated by the router bit used. This is the test run with a 115mm square x 6mm thick piece of MDF being routed. No, even I don't trust the actual pieces I am working for a project to the first run with a new jig.
> The templates were marked out, using a knife, on a single piece of perspex (plexi-glass), the sheet cut in half and opposing 'fingers' cut out. Once these two pieces mesh all joints routed with them should fit and be identical. This jig could also be used for finger joints (box joints).
> ...


Very helpful.


----------



## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Snakes and Ladders - Hinge Template Routing Jig*
> 
> I'm just going to let the pictures tell the story here. The only things I will say is that the template guide pin must be exactly the same width as the router bit used (6mm in this case) and the minimum hinge pin width is also dictated by the router bit used. This is the test run with a 115mm square x 6mm thick piece of MDF being routed. No, even I don't trust the actual pieces I am working for a project to the first run with a new jig.
> The templates were marked out, using a knife, on a single piece of perspex (plexi-glass), the sheet cut in half and opposing 'fingers' cut out. Once these two pieces mesh all joints routed with them should fit and be identical. This jig could also be used for finger joints (box joints).
> ...


Very clever.
Thanks for sharing.


----------



## scrollgirl (May 28, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Snakes and Ladders - Hinge Template Routing Jig*
> 
> I'm just going to let the pictures tell the story here. The only things I will say is that the template guide pin must be exactly the same width as the router bit used (6mm in this case) and the minimum hinge pin width is also dictated by the router bit used. This is the test run with a 115mm square x 6mm thick piece of MDF being routed. No, even I don't trust the actual pieces I am working for a project to the first run with a new jig.
> The templates were marked out, using a knife, on a single piece of perspex (plexi-glass), the sheet cut in half and opposing 'fingers' cut out. Once these two pieces mesh all joints routed with them should fit and be identical. This jig could also be used for finger joints (box joints).
> ...


Wow! Thanks for posting this Martyn! So much work went into that design that many don't realize it. The jig is very clever and it is nice that you take the time to share it with everyone. 

Sheila


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Snakes and Ladders - Hinge Template Routing Jig*
> 
> I'm just going to let the pictures tell the story here. The only things I will say is that the template guide pin must be exactly the same width as the router bit used (6mm in this case) and the minimum hinge pin width is also dictated by the router bit used. This is the test run with a 115mm square x 6mm thick piece of MDF being routed. No, even I don't trust the actual pieces I am working for a project to the first run with a new jig.
> The templates were marked out, using a knife, on a single piece of perspex (plexi-glass), the sheet cut in half and opposing 'fingers' cut out. Once these two pieces mesh all joints routed with them should fit and be identical. This jig could also be used for finger joints (box joints).
> ...


Happy to see positive things happen under that name.
Smiles,
Mads


----------



## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

BritBoxmaker said:


> *Snakes and Ladders - Hinge Template Routing Jig*
> 
> I'm just going to let the pictures tell the story here. The only things I will say is that the template guide pin must be exactly the same width as the router bit used (6mm in this case) and the minimum hinge pin width is also dictated by the router bit used. This is the test run with a 115mm square x 6mm thick piece of MDF being routed. No, even I don't trust the actual pieces I am working for a project to the first run with a new jig.
> The templates were marked out, using a knife, on a single piece of perspex (plexi-glass), the sheet cut in half and opposing 'fingers' cut out. Once these two pieces mesh all joints routed with them should fit and be identical. This jig could also be used for finger joints (box joints).
> ...


Thanks for sharing, nicely done,


----------

