# miter track problem



## tigger959 (Mar 10, 2008)

I own a Craftsman table saw. Purchased featherboards to cut thin strips but learned Craftsman has a different size track then everyone else. Was building a miter jig and cut some poplar to serve as runners. Well, this has turned into quite the project. I am having problems cutting the runners. Seems I cut them too exact (they slide in track and under the guard(?))but when I screw them to the sled they lock in place andthe sled won't slide. Any thought?


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## Mickit (Feb 6, 2010)

your screws may be the problem… widening the runners as they are sunk in….just a thought.


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

Your screws are swelling the runners just enough to lock them to the sides of the track. Give them a coat of furniture wax and see if that doesn't free them up.


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## tigger959 (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks fellows but it's not the sides that are the problem. When I tighten them, the runners tighten to the base and then I can't get the unit started in the track. There's a runner lead of 4 inches before the base slides onto the table. As you push the base onto the table the base catches at the front of the saw top and you can't lift it to go any further. Should I cut the tracks so they do not have any chance of locking (top to bottom, not side to side) within the track? If so, does this do anything to the integrity of the unit?


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## MarcusM (Mar 29, 2010)

Tigger, putting some thin shim stock between the runners and the base should fix that. Might take some trial and error to find the right thickness…maybe some thin card stock or even double-faced tape would work. Hope that helps.

Mark.


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## tigger959 (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks, MarcusM, will give it a try.


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

You could try some thin flat washers between the runners and base. Also you could recut the runners and make them slightly proud.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

the runners are not supposed to bottom out in the miter slots - so shimming the runners to the sled is not really the right way to go about it here as it may and will lift your sled above the table top which might render it with full support on the table.

miter slots are not always perfectly machined and the screws also might be swelling up your runners.

to deal with the swelling of the runners you can try and plane the runners down just where the screws are at so that when you tighten the screw it won't bulge out in thickness

if that does not help it might be due to your runners being pulled left/right when you tighten them to the sled. if thats the case, try planing the entire runners a sinch down so that it won't bind.


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

I still think that your screws are swelling your runners and causing them to bind. From your description, your runner lead slides ok, but when you get to the screw location you're binding up. I've fixed this by using a sanding block to carefully sand down the swollen runner and/or waxing them.

Another question is why you want a lead on the runners? I did that on one sled once, but decided that it didn't add anything and haven't done it for years.

I would also use something harder than poplar for my runners. I usually use maple and they last for years.


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

I read his reply, when he slides the sled in the bottom of the work surface hits the table. This was the reason I suggested the washers.

If the runners are slid in then the the sled screwed down this may take care of the problem since you would be only tightening as far a the table surface would permit. Also as Purplev suggested to shve the runner just a bit should get him working.


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## tigger959 (Mar 10, 2008)

The plan came from:

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/tablesaw-miter-jig/

if you want to look at it. Maybe it will give you a better idea of what I am saying. Especially where it comes to the 'lead' on the runners. I tried to use Maple (bought it at Rockler in Houston) but it split on me. The poplar did not. Don't know if it's because of the size (5/8×3/16) or not. A good friend suggests I use brads rather than the #8×1" screws. Personally, after you countersink the holes, a 3/4" would do just as fine and I wouldn't have to sand (grind) the tips off as it indicates. By the way, is there a difference between brass screws and the steel ones or did he suggest the brass purely for 'looks'?

I am deeply appreciative for all of your input. Currently, I'm building a workshop and haven't finished it because I have a severe case of tennis elbow (hit a knot and didn't brace myself) and am working under the carport (20' x 30') until I do. Today, the temp was 105 degrees and since I don't get home until 1pm, I didn't spend enough time outside to complete any suggestions. Can't wait for it to cool down to 100!


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I have attached runners [maple, plastic, and aluminum] with the "permanent" [red] double faced tape from Staples Office Supply to avoid the screws following the grain, spreading the runner, penetrating the surface, etc. I am amazed how strong this stuff binds! Im not sure I could remove them without a heat gun and or solvent. Just a thought.


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## tigger959 (Mar 10, 2008)

bentlyj: No, but I plan to before I try anything else.

gfadvm: If the above doesn't work consistently, I'm going to try yours. In fact, I'll buy the double faced tape no matter just to try on another project.

Thanks to all for your tips!


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## jeth (Aug 18, 2010)

From what I understand of his original post sounds like he has two runners and the dimensions are ok as they run in the slots fine when not attached to the sled, but the sled binds with the runners in place? If thats the case then perhaps the two runners are not perfectly parallel?


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## tigger959 (Mar 10, 2008)

The problem is not parallel. The problem is the base pulls the runners up until they lock to the miter (there's a small inset 2" in from the ends of the miter track. It's at this point that the runners stick. I tried screwing, putting a brad & a staple into the maple runners and they split. The dimensions of the runners are 3/16" high by 5/8" wide. I cut the runners to equal the length of the base (12-1/4"). I'm going to cut some more runners from both the Maple I have and something from Lowe's that I'll buy tomorrow. Then, I'm going to buy some 2 sided tape to try.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I have runners in various jigs made of maple, alum, plastic [like cutting board materiel from the dollar store] and I like the plastic ones the best. They dont seem to swell or shrink, dont have grain to deflect screws and drill bits, and slide nicely with a little paste wax


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## tigger959 (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks, gfadvm, will stop there today and get one.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Table saws were not designed with sled use in mind. They were designed for a miter gauge running in one slot.Sometimes using only one runner in one table slot is enough. Two runners increases the chance of binding if they are not 100% perfectly parallel with each other and to the slots. The table slots may not even be parallel. Check them for parallelism. If they are not, no sled using two runners will ever work.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Good point MrRon. I never considered the miter slots not being parallel. Tigger, you need to check that.


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## retiredandtired (Mar 10, 2011)

I have a craftsman too, and the problem is those four ears they have molded in the alum. top. The slot is square cut instead of t slot. I thought about cutting the slots off but they are the only thing holding the bar down so as smart as I am I decided i wanted to keep my only 6 bottom teeth. only thing Iknow to do is try to widen the bottom some how. If you figure it out let me know.
good luck


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## tigger959 (Mar 10, 2008)

I've tried every suggestion here. Even went to a machine shop today and asked what a bar would cost to make. Wanted $75.00 for 2'. No wonder everything is made in China! Anyway, I was looking at the miter gauge that comes with the saw. If I could get anyone on the phone from Craftsman or Sears, maybe I could get them to sell me the bar piece. If not, I'm going to make one as follows:

Rip a piece of hardwood to 5/8"W x 3/8"H (flush with ear)
Set the saw blade to thickness of the ear and rabbit each edge.
Then, rabbit the bottom center to ride over the middle hump(?)
Only thing I can think of trying. Starting to get frustrated.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

I understand your frustration. I solved this problem by upgrading to a new saw….


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## tigger959 (Mar 10, 2008)

I made the runner! I just took the metal runner that comes with the saw and duplicated it with hardwood. Key to all of it are the top slots that slide under the ears or ridges along the track. Make them deep enough and then screw #6 3/4" wood screws through the bottom groove that you create. Works just fine. Made a couple of extra for additonal jigs that I plan on making. Sure can't wait for my elbow to heal so I can finish the new workshop. Jigs are fun to make but I'm getting a little tired of working under the carport in this 100+ degree heat.


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## patcollins (Jul 22, 2010)

Put the runners in the miter slots then glue the sled onto them


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## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

Tigger, you can get Miter bar stock made of UHMW for the Sears miter slots from this site.
http://www.ttrackusa.com/track_%20systems.htm#1120 
1119 .744×3/8" x 48" UHMW Miter/ Jig Bar (Sears) $7.99


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