# Show me your band saw dust collection setup, please



## mprzybylski (Nov 21, 2011)

Hey everyone,
I recently purchased the Grizzly G0555LX and got a 3/4" BladeRunner blade (the equivalent of a WoodSlicer) from Iturra Design (why more people don't talk about/buy from them is kind of perplexing but ill save that for another post). In any case, I was testing resawing on a 2×4 just for fun and man, dust everywhere. I'm interested in seeing how you've all set up DC under the table and pictures/explanations would be greatly appreciated. there is alot going on under there with limited space so I'm not sure how to proceed in making something that'll fit there.


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## PeteMoss (Nov 24, 2008)

Hey Matt. Sorry that I don't have a picture handy, but I will try to describe what I did with mine. Basically, I have a Delta 14" bandsaw that is probably 15 years old. The built in collection is a measly little connection right below the table that you could hook to a shop vac. This is mostly useless. So instead, I cut a 4" hole in the bottom middle of the lower wheel cover, right on the front of the machine. To this I installed a 90 degree connector that I can hook my dust collector to. So, all the dust flows into the lower wheel housing and is collected there. It actually works very well, though it doesn't look beautiful or anything like that. If you are resawing something pretty tall then dust will still make it through, but it is 10 time better than the factory port. Good luck with your saw.


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## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

well I have a 14" craftsmen band saw and like pete I use my shop-vac


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## JesseTutt (Aug 15, 2012)

My Grizzly 17" bandsaw has two 4" ports one just below the table and the other at the bottom of the base. After conferring with fellow LJs I simply connect my dust collector hose to the port just below the table. Almost all sawdust ends up either collecting on the lower bearing assembly, table trunnion, or in the dust collector.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I don't have a pic, but I do have the same saw G0555LX. I have been using my shop vac with the Oneida cyclone to capture the dust/chips from the tools in my shop.

For the band saw, I bought a 4 → 2 1/2" reducer and added a 2 1/2" "Y" to it. From there, the hose runs to the shop vac. The other part of the "Y" is connected to a shop vac piece that is held in place with a bungie cord. It collects the dust just below the table and the internal dust is collected through the factory 4 inch port.

Works pretty good.
Pic coming.
Mike


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)




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## marcuscraft (Nov 14, 2012)

Thanks Don, I am laughing way too hard sitting in front of my computer at work now.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

This is probably similar to what Pete Moss did, except I put my port in a slightly different position on the door. If you look hard you'll see I covered the area where the stock port was with a removable piece of polycarbonate.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

Ok….here ya go….....


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## pmayer (Jan 3, 2010)

4" port provides great CFM, but I like the upper right placement idea and if I had it to do again, which I will I'm sure, I will move it up and right a bit.


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## mprzybylski (Nov 21, 2011)

thanks everyone, keep them coming!

@MT_Stringer: What is that piece that is connected to the pipe/hose and the bungee cord? It looks like a dust pan or something similar. Where would I get one of those and how has it worked for you? Also, have you found the stock port to be good for collecting the lower wheel dust? I've seen many people say to cover it and drill a hole in the front lower left portion but I'm not keen on putting holes in my brand new band saw…


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

Matt: If you want to collect the dust you will have to get over the concern about putting a hiole in your new saw. I did exactly what the other posters did shortly after I got my 14" Delta saw and I have never regretted it. The little built in collection port is useless.


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## mprzybylski (Nov 21, 2011)

@Kazooman: I understand, however, I have the same saw as MT_Stringer above and it has a big 4" port in the back. If you look at his picture you will see it coming out of the back connected to his hose at the bottom. I don't think I should have to add another hole in front if this one is essentially the same thing but in the back which is why I asked if it was sufficient.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Don thanks for the belly buster….lmao!


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## TerryDowning (Aug 8, 2012)

I use the same one as Don W.

I absolutely love the power consumption on that unit. Very eco-friendly.


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## pmayer (Jan 3, 2010)

With a 4" port in the back you should not have to add on in the front. I don't like cutting into new tools either, and definitely wouldn't have carved mine up if it already had a port in the rear. Just keep the flex run relatively short going to it and you should be fine assuming that you are pulling adequate to begin with.

Don, simply outstanding. ROFL.


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## 1yeldud1 (Jan 26, 2010)

Mine is just like "Pmayer" - but I used the Rockler Dustright system of attachments so I can remove the hose when I store the bandsaw


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## copcarcollector (Aug 8, 2012)

This is my set up. The under the table hood was added by the previous owner. I cant say yet how good any of the dust collection is, I have only cut a couple of pen blanks in half so far. This is all hooked up to my Grizzly 3HP collector


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## mprzybylski (Nov 21, 2011)

@copcarcollector: is the under the table hood just a "gulp" hood (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30135&site=ROCKLER) that was reshaped slightly ? does it have a piece of plexi on top or am I just seeing things? And di he drill holes into the trunnions to connect it?

@1yeldud1: I also use the dust right stuff and was planning a setup very similar to what copcarcollector just posted after doing all this research but according to the reviews for the rockler Y connector it doesn't fit very well with the handle. Do you use this and do you have issues with the fit? Here is the Y at rockler: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16970&site=ROCKLER


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

"@MT_Stringer: What is that piece that is connected to the pipe/hose and the bungee cord? "

That is just one of those floor scoop accessories that comes with a shop vac. The bungee cord makes it easy to remove for blade changes or adjustments.

So far my setup is working OK. I checked the other day and there was only a little sawdust in the bottom corners and the tires were clean.


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## copcarcollector (Aug 8, 2012)

MATT - Yes below the table is a plastic hood of some sort, I dont know the exat model, its about 4×9 inches but has rounded sides - it does not look to me like the hood was modified at all. He drilled and mounted with two screws into the trunions, You have to remove the hood if you want to tilt the table. What looks like Plexi is actually metal tape, an attempt to seal up some of the gaps. Hope these additional pics are helpful. Let me know if you have additional questions


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

Oops, I didn't realize that your saw already had a port on the back. I agree that just one 4" connection should be enough. My homebrew "cut-a-hole-in-your saw" works just fine. As others mentioned, keep the flexible hose connection short if you can. The corrugated stuff offers much more air resistance than smooth PVC or sheet metal.


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## mprzybylski (Nov 21, 2011)

@MT_Stringer: Gotcha, makes sense, thank you.

@copcarcollector: Thanks a ton! those are very helpful. I think I have an idea for this now possibly using magnets rather than screws and/or bungee cords. I'll have to develop it a bit further when i get the time to sit with the BS and give it a good look through but these have all been VERY helpful so I really appreciate yours and everyone elses input.


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## 1yeldud1 (Jan 26, 2010)

Matt - This what I bolted on to the front of my lower saw . I just use the dust right handle and connect it to this fitting when I want to use my saw - using a portable dust collector. I just un-hook the handle and roll the saw over in the corner when Im finished. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21489&site=ROCKLER


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## MatthewP (Oct 18, 2012)

I have the same saw and here is what i did. It has worked fantastically even while resawing 6" material.

1 rockler router table splitter.









1 rockler angle adapter with high power magnets epoxied in place









Magnets attached to saw









Suction exactly where it is needed


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## Lynden (Oct 13, 2009)

Here's a good description from Highland Woodworking on how to install a 4" port at the bottom of the door.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/bandsaw-dust-control-that-works-2.aspx


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## mprzybylski (Nov 21, 2011)

@MatthewP: that's pretty much exactly what I was planning after seeing everyone's replies and looking at other pics online. Is the router table splitter two 4" ports or is the top one 2.5"?


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## mprzybylski (Nov 21, 2011)

Also, does that 4" end take the dust right handle well or is it a loose fit? And lastly did you just cut down their 2.5" hose to use for that section?

Apologies for all the questions


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## MatthewP (Oct 18, 2012)

Matt,
The router table splitter has 1 4" port and 1 2.5" port. I bought their 2.5" hose that they sell for router tables and cut it down to a size that worked for me. It takes the dust rite handle ok. It's not a loose fit but it doesn't fit nearly as well as some of the other ports i have. If i were to do it again i don't think i would do anything differently, it's one of those rare occasions when everything worked as planned.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

Matt,
I've been following this thread from the beginning, as I just got a Rikon 10-325 and need improved DC. The 10-325 comes with a 4" DC port on the rear, down by the lower wheel. I also want to get some DC for just below the table. This thread has been very helpful! Thanks for starting it!!!

With that said and not to "dis" MatthewP, but a "Y" connection would improve air flow (90 degrees is an air flow restriction). I don't know what "pieces parts" are available and/or compatable with your saw and/or the Dust Right handle. I'm just trying to point out the restrictive nature of 90 degree Vs. 45 degree connections.

Great info being exchanged here!
BTW, thanks everyone for taking the time to share you ideas and pictures!!!


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## MatthewP (Oct 18, 2012)

DiyAholic,
A Y would most certainly allow more flow as would a 4" vs the 2.5" that i use. I made the choices for my setup based more on compatibility with my DC system, compactness, and the stock look of the thing. That said it sucks well and i have very little mess afterwards. The largest amount of sawdust is on the table where the Dc can't get it.


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## redryder (Nov 28, 2009)

Grizzly bandsaw.............................


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## live4ever (Feb 27, 2010)

Hi Matt,

This actually has nothing to do with dust collection, but I am curious how you are finding that 3/4" blade on your saw. The traditional "gospel" on the forums (at least as long as I've been reading bandsaw threads…4 years maybe) is that these 14" saws cannot properly tension anything more than 1/2". Just wondering your experiences with that. Were you able to apply enough tension and did it feel at all like it was stressing the saw?


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## mprzybylski (Nov 21, 2011)

@DIYAholic: yeah, you're probably right and I think for the most part I'm going to kind of combine Matthew Parker's solution with copcarcollectors (Matthew's magnet idea with copcar's fittings/pipes) and I think that will work well.

@redryder: you're lucky that you have that port under the table 

@live4ever: The 3/4" blade, though with full disclosure I have not had a chance to use it extensively yet, just resawing some 2×4s, is great. I spoke with Lou Iturra on the phone who is very gracious and answers all your questions and he gave me my blade choices and explained everything. Originally I was going to get the 1/2" version of this blade but he brought up that the 3/4" version is also a viable option due to the fact that it is much thinner than 3/4" blades usually are (I believe its .22" compared to .32", though don't quote me on that, I don't remember the actual numbers but I'm sure you could find them with a little research). I like the idea of having a 3/4" blade and that it has a smaller kerf since I'm using it for resawing and want to get as much wood as possible out of it. You can give him a call at (904) 642-2802 and he can explain everything to you. He's super nice and you don't even really have to order from him and he'll still answer your questions, but I would encourage ordering from him as well. As I mentioned, the BladeRunner is the same blade as the Highland Woodworking WoodSlicer. For my 105" blade I paid $21 (I believe, if not then $24, we were talking about so many blades I lost track  whereas on the Highland site their WoodSlicer of the same stature is I believe $37.

Again, I have not used the BS much at all as I'm currently working on a project that doesnt use it, but I can tell you that I was super frustrated with my setup when I got it up and running until I put that BladeRunner on it. I got giddy and can't wait to resaw now.


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## dczward (May 23, 2011)

Here's what I use on my 14" Grizzly, which already had a 4" port on it…


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## mprzybylski (Nov 21, 2011)

Douglas, how is the portion under the table kept in place? And how did you connect it to the 4" fitting (that stretch hose you've got to the fitting)? I've actually got that whole kit from Rockler laying around gathering dust and never thought to use it for this! I just don't know how they connect…


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

@Matt - if it don't fit…
Duct tape is your friend!

Expand or collapse adapters by slicing several cuts in the adapter with the band saw, then break out the heat gun and soften the plastic. Force the pieces together so the softened plastic molds itself to fit the mating surface either inside or outside. I used a clamp to tighten the fit snugly until it cooled off. Then wrapped it with…duct tape! 

Hope this helps.
Mike


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## JSilverman (Mar 31, 2011)

two questions about the dust collection ports some folks have added to their bandsaws:

1) how did you cut the sheet metal?

2) why upper right placement for the port? I recently read somewhere (I think M Fortune wrote it) that placing on the bottom left would be the best place due to the slower speed of the dust leading to more effective capture.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

tape is your friend! …..ain't that the truth.


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## 1yeldud1 (Jan 26, 2010)

I took mine to work and used a milling machine and rotary table to cut my front cover for the dust port


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

"I took mine to work and used a milling machine and rotary table to cut my front cover for the dust port"

Hey! That's cheating! Most of us dont have access to that stuff.


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## pmayer (Jan 3, 2010)

JS,

1) I used a jig saw with metal cutting blade. Cut like butter. 
2) Nearer the source seems to make more sense to me, as band saw blades are not traveling that fast compared to other saws. For example, wood cutting band saws normally run at about 3,000 surface feet per minute, while a miter saw blade is typically more that 4x that speed or closer to 13,000 SFPM and much more difficult to corral dust. My band saw port is pretty much centered on the front, so I really can't say one way or another. Mine works fine, but I am always looking for improvement in dust collection.


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## mbs (May 8, 2010)

I had enough room under the table to squeeze a 4" hose right behind the blade. I also have a 4" connection at the bottom of the housing.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Great Thread!


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## English (May 10, 2014)

I have a 4" port to the bottom of the lower wheel camber and a 2.5" to an small shroud around the blade below the table.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

I just finished modifying my table saw and router table for 4" dust collection.

Now it is time for the band saw.

All of you have had time with your systems; would anyone make any changes or improvements?

I am kind of leaning toward the dual port, one to the lower wheel and the upper line under the blade.

Thanks again for everyone's contribution. My Delta 14" makes one hell of a mess!


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## exelectrician (Oct 3, 2011)

This is on an old Grizzly 16" it works but it is not perfect.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

> This is on an old Grizzly 16" it works but it is not perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You are trying to confuse me, aren't you?

I see the 4" going into the PVC lower cover and the 4" to 2.5" going to the blade, but what is that black hose with the orange fitting do?


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## exelectrician (Oct 3, 2011)

Hi timbertailor umm yeah,,, that black pipe is one of those pipes, you pull and it stays, (in theory) where you left it. I have a couple of zip ties loosely put through the top guide and it sorta stays where I want it for sucking up dust on the top of the cut, in reality this is a total waste. I should take it out, but am building other more important stuff like a hanging wall cabinet, (see my blog ). 
Getting back to the saw, I am more pleased with the way I cut the legs off and bolted the stumps to a sheet of ply, then put those awesome locking castors from HDepot underneath, this works like a charm.


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## exelectrician (Oct 3, 2011)

Hi timbertailor umm yeah,,, that black pipe is one of those pipes, you pull and it stays, (in theory) where you left it. I have a couple of zip ties loosely put through the top guide and it sorta stays where I want it for sucking up dust on the top of the cut, in reality this is a total waste. I should take it out, but am building other more important stuff like a hanging wall cabinet, (see my blog ). 
Getting back to the saw, I am more pleased with the way I cut the legs off and bolted the stumps to a sheet of ply, then put those awesome locking castors from HDepot underneath, this works like a charm


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

> Hi timbertailor umm yeah,,, that black pipe is one of those pipes, you pull and it stays, (in theory) where you left it. I have a couple of zip ties loosely put through the top guide and it sorta stays where I want it for sucking up dust on the top of the cut, in reality this is a total waste. I should take it out, but am building other more important stuff like a hanging wall cabinet, (see my blog ).
> Getting back to the saw, I am more pleased with the way I cut the legs off and bolted the stumps to a sheet of ply, then put those awesome locking castors from HDepot underneath, this works like a charm
> 
> 
> ...


Looks a lot more cost effective than the $70 I just spent with Rockler for a rolling cart base. Well done.

And thanks for the reply. I thought it might be a "triple threat" design, but was not sure. Sounds like it did not really pan out for you. Good to know. I will stick with the double duty design.

Thanks and have a great day!


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## MatthewP (Oct 18, 2012)

Mine is still working great and highly recommend the setup I used. I'm less pleased with the saw than I am my duct collection setup.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

" I started with nothing, and I've still got most of it left".......

LOL it reminds me of my school report card ,where it always said.
This student started out very poorly in academic terms.However , unfortunately over the years at this institution. He has not Managed to maintain this standard .
And has gradually deteriorated very badly to the all time low he regularily attains, without fail since his arrival. Alistair LOL


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## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

Matt I have the same Grizzly band saw. I built a dust collection system for it and it works great. 
Here's a photo of it on my blog page here at LJ.








I'm glad I responded to your request so timely. Lol

You can find it on my blog page @
James E McIntyre
I don't know how to add a link.


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