# Right of passage



## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

Hello fellow lumberjocks,

So I just returned from the ER after my first table saw injury. I am still somewhat of a novice, and though I have watched countless videos of people demonstrating and advocating safety, I did something I shouldn't have. I was making a slim rip that required two pushsticks and I was only using one. The cut went fine but at the end, *I think what happened-it went so fast** the saw lifted up my piece (left side of the blade) a little and I tried to grab it to move it to the side and the saw bit my thumb.

I am incredibly lucky/blessed, because it could have been a serious injury. It's not. My thumb will never look the same again but all my fingers are intact and I should regain full functionality. I feel so fortunate that I have learned a valuable lesson with minimal cost. I will definitely change how I work with the table saw. In fact, a microjig gripper was ordered while I was waiting to be seen in the ER. (I know you can still be safe without that product, or be dangerous with that product, but it will help me.

Anyway, I guess what I wanted to ask is what are the odds of getting injured in the shop? What I did was stupid and will never be repeated and it didn't need to happen. But I also kind of get the sense that if you work in the shop enough something is bound to happen at some point in time. Do you have an assumption of injury, or are there scores of woodworkers out there with clean health records? I assume the hand tool folks carry less risk than power tool users.


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

I'm truly glad you're OK. I've been at it for over 50 years and have never injured myself beyond a cut. I'm struggling to picture the rip cut you were making that required two push sticks.

Regarding hand toolers, a chisel slip can sever an artery just as easily as a saw blade.

Again, I'm happy you're OK. If they gave you some good drugs, stay out of the shop while you use them.


----------



## CaptainKlutz (Apr 23, 2014)

Sorry to hear you are a new statistic for the insurance industry. :-(

Now that you have been cut, it's time for your kick back accident. All it takes is 0.1 second of distraction, or improper changing of hand position; and wood on table saw comes flying backwards. Body position is everything. Don't ever stand behind the piece of wood between the saw blade and fence, never. If you must be in line of fire, never let go of the wood or look away; or else.

Got hit in stomach once in high school with table saw kick back, was bruised for a month. Have only dented wall several times since then. Never stand behind the potential projectile.

I'm a total Klutz. I could write a book on 'what not do with tools'. Started to type a list, and it's too embarrassing. I am so clumsy it forces me to take extra precaution anytime I use a tool, hand or power. If I don't, I get hurt.

IMHO - first jig I make for every table saw I have owned: Push stick that rides the fence for thin stock. Trying to use 2 push sticks is a recipe for disaster with my meat hooks. When I sell my saw due household move, I show them how to use the fence riding push stick. It's that important to me.

Back before I knew better, cross cuts where a never ending source of stupid human tricks. Kick back was most likely result when there is oops, unless you push your finger into blade. 
Hence, The second most important tool to avoid table saw injury is cross cut sled. Every wood worker should use one, or several.

Remember, it's a hobby but you still have to be safe while you have fun.

Cheers!


----------



## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> But I also kind of get the sense that if you work in the shop enough something is bound to happen at some point in time.


Thats really never been my sense of things or my experience (though I am much less experienced than many here). Not to say that accidents can't happen, but with a little learning and a little caution, I don't think anything is inevitable.

As for the tablesaw (the main culprit), I consistently use a good push block and a magnetic featherboard which keep both hands away from the blade and I feel pretty safe.


----------



## oldguy2 (Jun 29, 2014)

Hi. First Want to wish you well. Glad you have the thumb and will look forward to getting back at woodworking. Certainly this must scare the crap out of you. So only reading what you gave us. Did you look this cut over like a dry run…here is what I see happening, moving the board ,the cutoff, my hands.? Now the big one was the blade only the gullet or about a 1/4 above the board? I read about no saw guard, so this cut would have pushed and you would have reached thru a guard to not grab. No guard is easy to work with but they stop the board from moving and you can push the switch off or it holds it down. Make one for an older saw. I have had both, the guard hold the wood and the splitter slow down the blade due to wood tension and shut off my saw. And as a former business, did not need an accident to stop my fun so I really thought out saw safety and the cut. I have a bandsaw cut from after I shut it off trying to get the scrap out of the way…talk about reaching and stupid. Best wishes. Hope to hear more from you.


----------



## HackFabrication (Mar 11, 2019)

Glad to hear you didn't loose your thumb.

To answer your questions about odds… No one can give you a hard answer. Do the odds of getting into an automobile accident increase when you choose to drive? Working with power tools, are the odds greater of injury than working with hand tools? I've been cut with chisels and hand saws too. And then there's the utility knife….

I too had (1975) a close encounter with a spinning 14" tablesaw blade. And it was a result of cutting a small, thin piece of wood, on too large a tool, plus a moment of distraction. I have the scar on my middle finger, right hand, to show (and remind me) of it. I have a high level of respect for any power tool, and the instantaneous damage that can be done to the human body, when mis-use or distraction comes into play.

There are those that hate blade guards, and that's their option not to use them. Far be it for me to be a safety nazi. However, I use mine whenever I can.


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Bummer, but glad to hear you're going to be ok.


----------



## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

> I am incredibly lucky/blessed, because it could have been a serious injury. It s not. My thumb will never look the same again but all my fingers are intact and I should regain full functionality. I feel so fortunate that I have learned a valuable lesson with minimal cost. I will definitely change how I work with the table saw. In fact, a microjig gripper was ordered while I was waiting to be seen in the ER. (I know you can still be safe without that product, or be dangerous with that product, but it will help me.


Sorry for your accident. I am glad that you didn't get hurt worse. Here's to better, safer procedures.



> Anyway, I guess what I wanted to ask is what are the odds of getting injured in the shop? What I did was stupid and will never be repeated and it didn t need to happen. But I also kind of get the sense that if you work in the shop enough something is bound to happen at some point in time. Do you have an assumption of injury, or are there scores of woodworkers out there with clean health records? I assume the hand tool folks carry less risk than power tool users.


There's a lot to be said for developing safe usage protocols. It's always good to think through the most safe way to do things. And some will even tell you that if you "do-it-right-all-the-time" you'll *never* have an accident.

I won't tell you that. (In fact, privately I'm thinking something entirely different.)

I'll confirm what you already think. That is this; statistically speaking, if you work in the shop long enough there will be a time when you'll be distracted, or tired, or just plain stupid, and you'll make a mistake. Hopefully it won't be a mistake that results in a major injury or (gulp) death. My driver's education class (which was better than any current program I've seen) emphasized the probability that the longer you drive the more likely it is that you will have an accident. This is statistically true. Insurance companies have certainly done studies on this. You can reduce the likelihood greatly by practicing safe procedures and developing safe habits, but you can't take away the risk completely. And while hand tools might not remove as much flesh and bone quite as quickly, they can certainly do a lot of damage anyway. I've got a nice scar (and numb spot) on the side of my thumb where a freshly sharpened chisel split the tendon and the nerve in a millisecond…

So. What did I do to reduce the likelihood that I'd get injured by my tablesaw?

I bought a SawStop. (que the haters in 1, 2, 3…) I was afraid of my Ridgid. I was always futzing with the stupid fence which wouldn't stay lined up and was always pinching, plus it didn't have a riving knife to help prevent kickback. And I was always anxious when leaning out over that blade which seemed a mile away…

And now I've got a really nice fence, a riving knife, a flat polished precision table and T-Slot, decent dust collection, and the assurance that if I do make a mistake, there's a very high probability that I'll only wind up with a slight surface cut instead of finger or hand loss.

Can you not afford it? Well I couldn't either for a long time, but I finally just saved up enough and bought one anyway. Although, I will say, there's plenty of other opportunities to get injured… bandsaw, skilsaw, drill press, jointer, lathe, utility knife, freshly sharpened chisels….

....just not with my tablesaw anymore.

That's what I did. Your mileage may vary.

So what else can you do when ripping thin stock, and you don't want to buy a different saw?
Make a thin strip jig. There are plenty of examples on LJ.

Heal quick, go back and figure out better ripping method, be safe, and have fun.


----------



## GrantA (Jul 19, 2014)

Glad you're OK, I got the tiniest nick once, my left thumb has a small scar but no lasting effects thankfully. 
I have ask, since you said the piece lifted up- were you using out feed supports? That's very important. Your stock should not dive down towards the floor. I'm glad you got a grripper ordered, maybe make or buy a thin rip Jig too. Does your saw have a splitter or riving knife?
And don't assume hand tools are safer. Chisels are razor sharp. I got my pinky finger while cleaning out dovetails and it bled like a stuck pig. 
Stay focused.


----------



## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Glad its not worse, hope you learned something out of an unfortunate incident.


----------



## LittleShaver (Sep 14, 2016)

Glad to hear you came through it with all your parts.
I've been working with wood as a hobby for 40+ years. So far, so good with power tools. I've only had one unfortunate incident with a drill press. NEVER wear gloves when using a drill press.

That being said, I seem to have developed the habit of bleeding on every project. Mostly its a chisel that gets me. Some times a saw. I think I've been bit by just about every hand tool I use. Generally they can be fixed with a bit of tape and a piece of paper towel, but they have ended me up in the ER for sutures a few times.
Stuff happens when you use tools.

Scars are the signs of a life well lived.


----------



## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

> ...[snip]...
> As for the tablesaw (the main culprit), I consistently use a good push block and a magnetic featherboard which keep both hands away from the blade and I feel pretty safe.
> - unclearthur


Featherboards and and good push sticks helps a lot. My personal choice is to attach a pair of YELLOW Board Buddies with a long T-track. They roll only ONE direction and naturally pull the board toward the fence. They are adjustable for use with both skinnier and wider boards. As I recall, I had to buy separately, the longer T-Track (it comes with a shorter one but that limits adjust ability):


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

GLAD it was not worse then it could have been … overconfident is the worst thing you can have in the shop NOT just at the table saw its always good to take a couple seconds to think about what your doing and how you will do it before you even start the cut just my 3 cents LOL :<)))


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Chisels are very sneaky….if they are sharp enough, you don't feel a thing..









Until you see them little red dots everywhere…


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Sorry about your injury.

Sounds like you weren't using a 'shoe' pusher. This keeps down pressure forward to prevent the stock rising and kicking back.

When doing thin rips I use a sacrificial shoe pusher with a seperate tapered side block that ends at the center of the blade. This applies lateral force against the fence that tapers away so the kerf doesn't get forced close.

Horizontal Mike: how do the board buddies work on a narrow (1/4") rip? How do you get the push stick past them?


----------



## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

I'm an ER doctor and I regularly see guys injured in the shop and/or guys who are missing fingers from past mis-adventures with powertools. It's pretty random; I've seen guys who are already missing 2-3 fingers who are in the ER with another injury but most of the people I see are those who have been using powertools for years and then do something stupid/have been using powertools unsafe for years and have just been lucky.

Most of the serious injuries I've seen involve the TS and all have involved doing something unsafe. A few have been circular saw related and a couple from the jointer. Several have involved gloves getting caught in the blade. Ironically, the most common injury I see is from people cutting themselves while using a utility knife.


----------



## CL810 (Mar 21, 2010)

I took a woodworking class once that happened to have an ER doc, orthopedic surgeon and a hospital administrator in it. One day at lunch, table saw accidents came up in discussion. These three proceeded to tell some horrible stories. After hearing enough, I asked what saw they had. All three had Sawstops as did the school. I bought one when I got home.


----------



## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> Sorry to hear you are a new statistic for the insurance industry. :-(
> 
> Now that you have been cut, it s time for your kick back accident. All it takes is 0.1 second of distraction, or improper changing of hand position; and wood on table saw comes flying backwards. Body position is everything. Don t ever stand behind the piece of wood between the saw blade and fence, never. If you must be in line of fire, never let go of the wood or look away; or else.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing your experiences CaptainKlutz! I now appreciate your username even more


----------



## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> As for the tablesaw (the main culprit), I consistently use a good push block and a magnetic featherboard which keep both hands away from the blade and I feel pretty safe.
> 
> - unclearthur


I used a push block until my stock got too thin, then I had a push stick that worked well, I just should have gotten something for the other side, too, instead of my thumb. I had a featherboard up until about a month ago when it broke  Believe me, I've never missed it more than I did yesterday!


----------



## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> So. What did I do to reduce the likelihood that I d get injured by my tablesaw?
> 
> I bought a SawStop. (que the haters in 1, 2, 3…) I was afraid of my Ridgid. I was always futzing with the stupid fence which wouldn t stay lined up and was always pinching, plus it didn t have a riving knife to help prevent kickback. And I was always anxious when leaning out over that blade which seemed a mile away…
> 
> ...


Thanks Underdog! I showed my wife a demonstration of that last night, and she was immediately convinced. Budget and space is another issue, but I know I'll have her support if we ever take the plunge. Thanks for the well-wishes!


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

The Grippper is a very good way to go.


----------



## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> Glad you re OK, I got the tiniest nick once, my left thumb has a small scar but no lasting effects thankfully.
> I have ask, since you said the piece lifted up- were you using out feed supports? That s very important. Your stock should not dive down towards the floor. I m glad you got a grripper ordered, maybe make or buy a thin rip Jig too. Does your saw have a splitter or riving knife?
> And don t assume hand tools are safer. Chisels are razor sharp. I got my pinky finger while cleaning out dovetails and it bled like a stuck pig.
> Stay focused.
> ...


It wasn't an outfeed support issue. I was ripping several strips off a board and I was in the unusual circumstance of keeping the piece to the left of the blade (only 1 edge was jointed and I was using the same edge for all my cuts so I don't propagate little errors). So I was cutting a 1" strip off a 3ish" board. The 3" to the right of the blade against the fence was fine. But the desired piece to the left of the blade moves around once it's cut free. I didn't want it to bounce back into the blade and get nicked since that was a usable piece. It was trying to move that away that got me into trouble. Something I should have had another push stick for.


----------



## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> Chisels are very sneaky….if they are sharp enough, you don t feel a thing..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Eeek!


----------



## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

> Anyway, I guess what I wanted to ask is what are the odds of getting injured in the shop? What I did was stupid and will never be repeated and it didn t need to happen. But I also kind of get the sense that if you work in the shop enough something is bound to happen at some point in time. Do you have an assumption of injury, or are there scores of woodworkers out there with clean health records? I assume the hand tool folks carry less risk than power tool users.
> 
> - Travis


The odds are pretty high unless you are always vigilant and never cut corners when it comes to safety. Sharp bits of metal spinning at high speeds are dangerous. Like Rich, I have been at this for almost 50 years and aside from some minor cuts and splinters the only ER visit I had was caused by a hand chisel, so don't assume hand tools are safer! Incidentally, that ER visit was only two years ago, so experience has nothing to do with it either.


----------



## Bodgers (Sep 3, 2018)

> In fact, a microjig gripper was ordered while I was waiting to be seen in the ER. (I know you can still be safe without that product, or be dangerous with that product, but it will help me.
> 
> Anyway, I guess what I wanted to ask is what are the odds of getting injured in the shop? What I did was stupid and will never be repeated and it didn t need to happen. But I also kind of get the sense that if you work in the shop enough something is bound to happen at some point in time. Do you have an assumption of injury, or are there scores of woodworkers out there with clean health records? I assume the hand tool folks carry less risk than power tool users.
> 
> - Travis


Rather than buying a relatively expensive push block that encourages the removal of the blade guard and to move your arm across a spinning blade, I think the first action should be to re-attach the blade guard (assuming you don't have a SUVA style guard).

If you are interested in safety, you should only be detaching the guard for through cuts, and even then the router should be considered as an alternative.


----------



## Moai (Feb 9, 2009)

Im glad you are ok.

Keep this few things in mind:

1. dull blades are dangerous. ALWAYS use sharp blades that cut properly.
2. Keep several blades, each for every particular task (rip, general, crosscut). Avoid using a 80 teeth finish blade for RIP cuts.
3. AT ANY COST AVOID CUTTING SMALL PIECES IN A TABLE SAW. this is way too dangerous
4. all accidents at job sites happen when people is about to go home, they are tired and distracted.


----------



## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

> In fact, a microjig gripper was ordered while I was waiting to be seen in the ER. (I know you can still be safe without that product, or be dangerous with that product, but it will help me.
> .......
> - Travis
> 
> ...


BINGO…! That is precisely right!

I own two "Grippers" and tried to follow instructions to the "T", however as Bodgers points out, you are forced to remove permanently attached safety features in order to use "Grippers". And, if you think about it, if you were to lift/move the "Gripper" incorrectly, that alone could cause a kick-back, ripping the "Gripper" out of your hand (while your hand is directly over the spinning blade). No thank you…

The only way I now will use the "Gripper", is as a secondary push-block well to the left of the blade. Any closer, then I'll use a sacrificial push stick made out of a soft wood such as cedar or pine.


----------



## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

> ...[snip]...
> Horizontal Mike: how do the board buddies work on a narrow (1/4") rip? How do you get the push stick past them?
> - Madmark2


Great question! After a couple of attempts to do just as you suggest, I no longer make such narrow rips on the right side of the TS blade. If I want a very narrow rip, less than ~1-inch, I will rip it off of a wider board with the rip coming off of the left side of the blade. I can get the Board Buddies roughly ~1in close to the fence. A featherboard past the blade would be best, though the riving knife can interfere with the featherboard placement.

I do actually get my push stick "under" the Board Buddy on several cuts, but NOT on such narrow cuts.

*Another option for very narrow rips, I have both 10in and 14in Bandsaws, that are up to the challenge. While not quite as clean a cut, BS rips can be cleaned up w/sanding rather easily.


----------



## TEK73 (Mar 15, 2019)

> ...[snip]...
> As for the tablesaw (the main culprit), I consistently use a good push block and a magnetic featherboard which keep both hands away from the blade and I feel pretty safe.
> - unclearthur
> 
> ...


Those look nice, bur siriously, why is there no riving knife on that saw?
On my saw it takes me 5 seconds to insert or remove the riving knife.
The only time it is not used is:
- I'm dong dadoes
- I'm using a sled

Also, I try to never crosscut against the fence. If I need to crosscut (and not are using the slead) I use the fence to set the distance, remove the fence and push it through using a t-square.


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Such an abundance of caution here. I haven't ever used a blade guard. I have Grrrippers and use either them or push sticks as the situation warrants. I like the MagSwitch feather board devices.

And nothing narrower than 1" right of the blade? Wow.

Anyway, like I wrote earlier, I've been at it over 50 years and never suffered an injury worse than a splinter.

It's all just common sense. Not criticizing anyone. You should always work within your comfort zone.


----------



## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

TEK73,
The image is a "stock" image on the Internet, and not my personal saw… *;-)*

Had to hunt up a personal image for you. Don't normally leave the TS blade up. Took this while cutting leg tapers for a cabinet project.


----------



## TEK73 (Mar 15, 2019)

Thats way better ;-)

Not really my business, but since we are talking about safty and CaptainKlutz talking a lot about kickback I thougt it was worth mention.

That sawtop seems very familiar, what saw is it (I have a Harvey, same as the Grizzy saws I think)


----------



## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

My TS is a Grizzly 0690 with an add-on cast iron router extension.










BTW, even a SawStop can have kickbacks and throw wood back at you. Always practice safe procedures and use things like the riving knife and Board Buddies (aka featherboards).


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

The only time I've had a serious kickback (knock wood) was when trying to cut wedge shaped thin strips. Idiotic. Fortunately, it was a relatively small piece and I was not standing in line with it but it did embed itself into the insulation on my garage door. If the door had been open, I could have injured someone passing by. Sort of scared me straight. Knock wood.

Since we are sharing jigs, I saved this Woodsmith tip a while back for a simple and safer way to cut thin strips. I usually cut them with the strip against the fence but this looks like a much better way to do it. Most of the commercial & DIY jigs require you to move the fence for each cut but this one allows you to setup once and cut. You may even be able to use the kerf from the previous session to quickly setup for the same thickness later.


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

Sawstop. I know they're expensive, I know you still have to be careful, and I know that even the most careful person can have an accident. That's why they're called accidents and not 'on purposeidents'.

All the youngun's in my family. The nephews and my daughters and their husbands who ask about a table saw. I just tell them, "so many good ones out there but if you're going to get one and especially if you're young and have a lifetime to need your hands and fingers, there's only one choice really." I say that to the people I care about so it's not just brand love. In my mind it's simply no alternative.
Also, the Sawstop has a blade guard (as do many saws) that lets you feel good about leaving it in. It doesn't hinder your work, and I think it is pretty well designed with cauls that would greatly reduce kickbacks.
To me it's like saying, should I purchase a car with seatbelts and airbags or one without. You can get hurt in both; that accident thing again no matter how careful a driver you are, but your odds increase dramatically with the safety features.

(And yes I know, you can't purchase a new car without this stuff).


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

And…... Here we go.

I know the Sawstop is a very high quality saw, but it does one thing for safety only (and it does it at the wrong time if you screw up, costing you the price of a new blade and brake). Plus, like Mike said, you can still get kickbacks.

Also, since there's no Bandstop, Miterstop and Jointerstops yet, my fingers are still in peril even I have the Sawstop.

Frankly, I'm more nervous when I use my miter saw than anything else. One brain fart causing me to leave my thumb a little wide holding the board is all it takes. I do use the hold-down that's there when it fits, but still.


----------



## fivecodys (Dec 2, 2013)

I went for many years with the crappy stock guard removed on my table saw.
No issues, no injuries. I was lulled into a false sense of security for sure.
It took a nasty kick-back to get my attention. 
I was cutting a small piece 1/4" plywood, maybe 10"x12". BANG! It hit me in the stomach. Ripped a hole in my shirt and a nice 1" gash in my skin. I had a bruise the size of my fist for a couple of weeks.
More than anything, It scared me.

Once I settled down a little I began looking closely at safety in the shop.
I ordered and installed a Shark Guard, Made better & safer push sticks and most importantly, started to think though the cut before I made it. "Is this the best way to make this cut?", "Is this the right tool to make this cut?" and "Is this the safest way to make this cut?"

I should have been doing this all along but you all know how that goes….

Yes, the guard slows me down a little. But that is a good thing for me.


----------



## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

Sure even if you have a Sawstop you haven't stopped all ways of hurting yourself
It isn't 100% perfect…. but the major injury of concern is contact with the blade and amputation, more than being hit by kickback. A lot of the kickback injuries are still getting your hand in the blade

That injury path is substantially mitigated with a Sawstop.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

You asked "what are the odds of getting injured in the shop". That largely depends upon you. Statistics tell us about the past. Probabilities (odds) try to guess something about the future. If you put your body part in the blade, you will get cut 100%. If you don't, you won't. So, looking at it that way, there are no "odds".

Instead there are safe practices and unsafe practices.

The Japanese bullet train has had no fatalities in 25 years of operation. That was not an accident. That was the result of disciplined safely practices.

https://www.japan-talk.com/jt/new/shinkansen-bullet-trains-in-Japan

*7 billion times somebody got on the train and every time arrived safely*.
"Shinkansen are rarely late. Average arrival time is within 6 seconds of schedule (JR Central). This includes all natural causes of delay such as weather."

So, what does that have to do with woodworking?

I wish I was as disciplined and meticulous as those train operators.

-Paul


----------



## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

I would like to wager that we will have this discussion many more times from now till the end of times.
I've not ever come close to cutting my fingers off. 
The blade would have to come off the arbor for any chance of me getting cut.
Kick backs Are something to watch for.


----------



## anthm27 (May 12, 2015)

Sorry to hear about your injury but well done for posting the story here. 
In my case I mainly use hand held power tools where by I take the tools to the wood, I,ve been doing this all my life.
It is my intention though to buy some table tools, Jointer, Router and yes a Table saw. I have been telling myself that the first thing I need to do is educate myself on how to be safe with table tools like this.
Anyways, Bla Bla Bla, but for me I feel safer with hand held power tools. Im not sure if table saws are more or less dangerous than hand held power saws.


----------



## SSotolongo (Mar 25, 2019)

Glad you're ok, but I hope you're wrong and that it's not a rite of passage. I want no part of it. I'll gladly continue to smash a finger with a hammer or cut myself on a nail. I grew up around miter saws and circular saws. I've only recently started using a table saw, but I won't go near the blade. I think the machine was going to kick back a piece I was cutting once, but it did not. I didn't know my reflexes were still that quick at 41. if you're regaining full mobility in it, then just take it as a hard lesson learned. I bet your thumb still looks better than anything on Booger McFarland's hand.


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

There are lots of safe ways to rip thin strips on a table saw… many fine examples can be found right here at LumberJocks if you do a search. Besides using a proper featherboard/push stick combo, thin-rip jigs, both store bought and







work well, particularly with long stock. Thin-rip sleds are probably the easiest, but limited to what size stock you can use. I like this way cool sliding push block that fits over your fence. Most can be made pretty easily and cheap using scrap wood. BTW: Featherboards and push *shoes* (not push sticks) can be made easily as well - and you can never have too many.

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

> If you put your body part in the blade, you will get cut 100%. If you don t, you won t.
> 
> -Paul
> 
> - Ocelot


My uncle had his hand ripped open from a kickback with zero blade contact. It was a blind beveled cut of several identical parts being made. It was severe enough to require tendon repair surgery with a tendon sourced from his upper arm. If you don't touch the blade, you can still be cut!


----------



## Thalweg (Jan 27, 2009)

Thank you for your post. I think it is important for some of us to have these reminders. Those of us who have been working with power tools for many years know how to do it safely (or at least have no excuse for not knowing how to do it safely). However, after many years, complacency can become the enemy.

I have had shop accidents. I had a finger pulled into a router table once by stupidly cutting on the wrong side of the bit. I've had the bruised chest from kickback associated with a poorly aligned old Craftsman table saw (I haven't experienced a kickback situation since I replaced the Craftsman with a Sawstop). Every accident that I've ever had were the result of complacency. I like to think that I'm pretty safe in the shop. When I'm doing a complicated operation that is obviously risky I think it out carefully and use great caution. But it's been the simple stuff that has caught me; a quick rip on the table saw, or a little roundover on the router table, stuff that I've done thousands of times. It's the operations that I've done so often that I've lost the fear of that have bitten me. I suspect that I'm not the only one. So threads such as this one will serve to remind me to slow down and think about each cut carefully.


----------

