# Great Rust Remover



## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

I have a Millers Falls No.22 that I recently acquired, I will be trying this and reporting back as well.

20 minutes and what did you use to scrub/wipe it off?


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Good to know, thanks Doug.


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## douglbe (Jul 22, 2007)

GlennsGrandson, there were two very small areas I lightly scrubbed with steel wool and rinsed with water, it was that easy. Good luck with your Millers Falls.


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## MarkDavisson (Apr 26, 2009)

Great discovery, Doug! It's always gratifying to find common solutions like this.

I've also found that you can soak rusted metal in 10:1 water-molasses or straight apple cider vinegar. Takes a lot longer than 20 minutes (like a week longer), but it works!


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## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

"Snobol" is a stronger cousin to "The Works", but around here you are a terrorist if you buy it…you have to sign for it and give all sorts of personal information to get it. Never thought about using them on tools! I'm gonna try this too.
DanK


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

I'll have to try this. I wonder how it compares to EvapoRust which has been my go-to rust remover. One thing is that it's probably a heck of a lot cheaper than EvopoRust.


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## Radu (Jan 25, 2010)

Thanks for the tip. I'll try it next time I need to de-rust anything. I've been using phosphoric acid (the one for pool cleaning)


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Not sure what the active ingredients are in "the Works" so I might be a little Leary, I have used Evapo-Rust and many others have had good results with it too. Evapo-Rust is not caustic and is reusable.


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## JohnnyB (Nov 10, 2011)

The active ingredient in this appears to hydrochloric acid, aka muriatic acid, according to the MSDS. One of the industrial uses of hydrochloric acid is "pickling" steel to remove oxides. That explains why it works so well. HCl is dangerous in liquid and in aerosolized forms, so you don't want to breathe it or get it on you. Thanks for the review. I am going to give it a try.


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

But Jim, The Works is a dual use product. You can't get a gleaming toilet bowl with evapo-rust.


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

Thanks Johnny. We'll try to resist the temptation of brushing our teeth with it.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

funny stuff Tedstor
I think I'll stick with Evapo rust it's much safer

.http://www.evaporust.com/

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/2808


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

Now I need to find a pan largest enough to hold the body of this #5 Stanley.
I have a suggestion:









Thanks for the tip!


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## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

I ordered a pot tray from a garden supply store for putting the saw plates in. Just right sizes available.
DanK


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

I read about this products use for cleaning rust someplace and they did recommend safety precautions


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

I'll stick with EvapoRust , but thanks for the tip : )


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## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

You can pick your parts right up out of the EvapoRust solution. I use muriatic acid for tougher tasks, but it is nasty stuff, and I avoid it unless necessary. The older I get, the more I realize I am not invincible.


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

I'm curious as to the effects of this (The Works) on the the Japaning *Doug*. What did you observe?

This is the Millers Falls No. 22 CBG that I need to clean up, fairly light rust really. The japaning is in pretty good shape so I'd like to keep it that way.


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## douglbe (Jul 22, 2007)

I did check the Japanning and did not hurt it at all. It came out looking like new.

I do agree with the possible hazards of using this and one must be cautious when using. I used rubber gloves and set my pail outside while cleaning. I also rinsed with lots of water after removing from the Works. It is cheaper than EvapoRust and I had it on hand, so it was convenient to try. I am going to try diluting and see how well this works. Full strength may be overkill.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

The EvapoRust is reusable and doesn't harm us or the environment : ) 
I have severe chemical sensitivities and have no issues with the EvapoRust product on my skin or breathing around it. Worth every penny to me : ) 
I found that *Tractor Supply* had the lowest price on it last time I needed some.


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## JulianLech (Jan 13, 2011)

Doug, I also saw the article about "The Works" in a Popular Woodworking" email. I tried it on a 110 year old plane that I restored. It worked great and much easier to get and cheaper than EvapoRust. I never tried EvapoRust because I could only find it online. When I finished with the solution I just put it in the toilet. Do not understand why there is such a concern with people thinking this is so hazardous. Just take the proper safety precautions.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

"Do not understand why there is such a concern with people thinking this is so hazardous." 
Ummm, because it is.
Just one paragraph from the MSDS sheet on this product.
"Although not flammable, a latent fire or explosion hazard exists when product is 
in contact with certain metals or metallic surfaces, due to the formation of 
flammable hydrogen gas. "
Here's the rest of it …makes for good reading : )
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/f2/f2450f9f-f527-4720-a8b1-1c504df4f40f.pdf


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

Works amazing! 20 minutes, wipe with paper towel.


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

*Dusty56*, if you are going to quote *Julian* don't forget the next sentence, " Just take the proper safety precautions."

I wore goggles, nitrile gloves, and my respirator while using this. I can only imagine that I went above and beyond what the average toilet bowl cleaner uses for protection. I would have done the same for evapo rust. Also, again, this is much cheaper and I do not have money to throw away… if I did I would probably be buying brand new Lie Nielsens rather than doing these things.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

*" Just take the proper safety precautions."* 
My point was to read the MSDS where it tells you all about the "proper safety precautions" for using that product.
Too many to list here , that's why I included the link : ) 
I found it interesting that it reacts with certain metals and produces Hydrogen gas which may lead to a fire or explosion…..they don't say which metals , which is kind of stupid in my book : (
I'm glad it works for you , just something I can't use myself due to existing health issues.


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## Dwinkel5 (Nov 23, 2011)

I have used Works to restore old hand planes just as douglbe has and found it work very well.

Dusty56 - the big thing to keep it away from is aluminum. It will sit for a minute and then all of the sudden you have a big cloud of gas on your hands… not good to inhale.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

Thanks for that important info : )


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

From what I've gathered, it's 20% hydrochloric acid and 50% rodine, the latter is to prevent it from pitting or otherwise "attacking" metal alloys. I'm going to pick some up to have on hand.

I've tried vinegar and it works if you have time. I poured some in a jar over rusty nuts and bolts and after a week or so they were mostly rust free.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

Worth a try. Wd40's rust remover works well and is non-toxic. But it's $30+. I use liquid wrench and a scotch pad on everything but japanning I want to save.


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## jPell (Feb 5, 2011)

Well, I just got my #4 Type 16 that I won from thE bay and I think I'm going to give this stuff a try. This is my very first hand plane purchase which would make this my first clean-up/resto. I'm going to start with just the iron and chip breaker. The lever cap has an interesting patina that I may want to keep. And what room with better ventilation than the bathroom? Plus, once finished, I can just dump it into the toilet. I'll report back. Hopefully with pics. Wish me luck.


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## tnguyengp (Feb 19, 2013)

Proper protection from moisture is important. No matter how effective a container may be, there is always a possibility that a minute amount of moisture may seep in. This is an effective rust remover that quickly eliminate rust on ferrous metals:
http://www.protectivepackaging.net/rust-remover


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## CyberDyneSystems (May 29, 2012)

I too have had great results with Evaporust. Love the re useability, I'm still on my first can.
This is interesting though, and I might try ti as well.

... but for ease of use, and less concern about damaging myself or anything else, I will use Evaporust for most tasks.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

i was in the dollar store the other day and they had the quart size container. I said for a buck I'd give it a try. I'll let you know.


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

Since I have used this I have had an unusual amount of rust forming on everything in my shop/garage, penetrating the wax on cast iron and everything. I need to clean out my shop and air it out. I'd recommend doing this outside or in the bathroom with ventilation.

Really clean the part well after use with soap and water or something else. Maybe oil it right away and wax it later if necessary.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Since I have used this I have had an unusual amount of rust forming on everything in my shop/garage, penetrating the wax on cast iron and everything

Not surprised by that at all. At the hardware stores I work at, the shelves and any steel can in the vicinity of the muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) rusts in no time. It doesn't matter that the stuff is still factory sealed, somehow the vapors still get out and cause major rusting.

I can put up with a rusty shelf at work, the tools in my shop is another matter. I'll stick to Evaporust and electrolysis for rust removal.


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## wreker (Dec 18, 2012)

I used The Works on a couple saws and a maybe a dozen brace bits. I neglected to protect the bits afterwards and they flash rusted over night. The second time I made sure to wipe them with some 3-in-1 Oil and they've been fine, no rust.

Definately use it in a well ventilated area, and dispose of it in the toilet. For 2 bucks a quart at the grocery store, it's pretty cheap, easily available, and dual use.

Here is my Bay State saw before.









Bubbling in the sauce.









Here it is after.
All I've done here was brush it lightly with a brass brush to knock off some heavy rust and paint, and then run a few light passes of 0000 steel wool over the etch to see if I could bring it out some.
It's important to note that the etch was not at all visable on the saw before it went into the Works Bath.


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