# Can I still use polyurethane that has thickened a little?



## BobVila (Nov 11, 2017)

It looks like my can of polyurethane has thickened a little, naturally over time I guess.

It isn't coming out like Jell-O or anything like that, but it's thickened just a bit to where I'm able to notice it.

Do you think it will be okay to use it, or do I run any risks of messing up the Finish?

I have the first coat on, so far it looks like any other first coat I've done with this type, clear Satin. So I haven't noticed any huge differences, but thought I'd talk to you guys and see if anything jumped out in your minds when someone asks this question.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Is this oil based poly? If so, once it starts to kick, there is no stopping it - so use it while you still can! As for usability - absolutely! I have used it where I had to punch a hole in the top layer of poly with a screwdriver and then pour it out like honey into a mixing jar where it gets some added mineral spirits until it's thin enough to wipe on. As long as it hasn't turned into a rubbery jell, I've been able to use it. Just try to avoid the clumps 

Cheers,
Brad

PS: The above is with using gloss poly… satin and others that have additives to alter the finish may not behave the same when thinned like I do. Although, you can get a satin finish using gloss only if you know how.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I have my suspicions that the OP isn't really Bob Vila. Handyman extraordinaire… my boy Bob would know this.


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

I think I would approach this question from the viewpoint of 'is the time and cost of materials I have invested in this project worth risking for a $15 can of finnish'?'


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

I'm with Tung on this. Maybe if I was putting a finish on something for the shop I'd use it, but for anything else, go with fresh. Also, investing a few bucks in a can of Bloxygen will help preserve your finish down the road. A $12 can will give several dozen treatments. You only need to use it for long term storage, not every time you close the can.


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## BobVila (Nov 11, 2017)

Well that sounds like good news for me seeing as how I asked the question after I put the first coat on.

And yeah, I agree, but in this case it turned out okay. I've got the second coat on now, looks the same as the clear satin always does, more woody.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> I have my suspicions that the OP isn t really Bob Vila. Handyman extraordinaire… my boy Bob would know this.
> 
> - TheFridge


You forgot the part where Bob would sell his mother for buck.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

OP, when varnish cures 2 separate things are happening. The solvents that thin the solution are evaporating, and the compound itself is combining with oxygen to cure. Both start happening the moment a can is opened. Using your varnish is OK at this point, but like Brad said…use it all up quickly. You can still add some MS to thin it out but it would be wise to discard it after this project.


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## BobVila (Nov 11, 2017)

For those of you questioning if I'm really Bob Vila…...


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## pontic (Sep 25, 2016)

You lucked out with the Satin. As fred says Urethane is an addition polymerization so once it is exposed to O2 the process starts and doesn't really stop. This is why it becomes thick. Instead of brushing on microscopic ball bearings so to speak you are spreading on microscopic spaghetti. The spaghetti will still look smooth and shine alright but won't spray on well and as far as the additives that make the satin satin or semigross they settleout of the mix and will need to be remixed before application. once the urethane thickens it will be much harder to evenly mix the additives. So You may get a different satin effect than you think.


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## BobVila (Nov 11, 2017)

> You lucked out with the Satin. As fred says Urethane is an addition polymerization so once it is exposed to O2 the process starts and doesn t really stop. This is why it becomes thick. Instead of brushing on microscopic ball bearings so to speak you are spreading on microscopic spaghetti. The spaghetti will still look smooth and shine alright but won t spray on well and as far as the additives that make the satin satin or semigross they settleout of the mix and will need to be remixed before application. once the urethane thickens it will be much harder to evenly mix the additives. So You may get a different satin effect than you think.
> 
> - pontic


Yea, I wish I would have known. I was buying the little cans of it all the time, eventually I thought it was silly and went ahead and bought the larger, knowing I'd eventually use it all. Guess I was wrong.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Welcome to LJs
It seems a new can of finish would be safer to use instead of messing around with old finish, I'm a little puzzled why a simple chest proves he is Bob Vila ? I also wonder if "Bob Vila" the This old house host of days gone by would consider himself a "Handyman extraordinaire"?


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> Welcome to LJs
> It seems a new can of finish would be safer to use instead of messing around with old finish, I m a little puzzled why a simple chest proves he is Bob Vila ? I also wonder if "Bob Vila" the This old house host of days gone by would consider himself a "Handyman extraordinaire"?
> 
> - a1Jim


I'm pretty sure the chest proves he's not Bob Vila. Maybe if it had a banana leaf motif (very obscure reference to one of Bob's most controversial shows).


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

> I m pretty sure the chest proves he s not Bob Vila.
> - Rich


That's pretty much how I took it too.
I once worked with Danny DeVito and Bill Murray, but, neither of those guys were the famous ones.

For all we know, there are dozens of Robert Vila's in the world. (Or would that be Roberto Vila?)


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Rich
I guess my point is ,is Bob Vila really that involved with or talented in woodworking,folks seem to forget he was just the host of this old house and not the talented tradesman, such as Norm or Tommy.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

Bob, regardless if you are the famous Bob, or not, hopefully we all here can help each other improve and learn in our craft.
In that spirit, please allow me to make a couple of observations on your box that might help going forward.


There are mill marks from the planer in your top. Take some time to sand these out more thoroughly. There is also a burn or snipe mark on the edge of the top. Start with a slightly more aggressive sandpaper like 100 or 120 grit then progress through 150 to 180 grit. In an open-grain wood like oak or ash it isn't typically necessary to go any higher with the grits. (Some might go to 220, but I usually reserve that for closed grained woods) Whichever way you go, use the same sanding treatment on all surfaces of the box to get a more uniform stain treatment on the entire project.


When staining, allow the full drying time before applying any clear finish over it. Open grain woods tend to bleed back in the grain as it dries and creates the darker patterns that are visible in your top. Once the stain has dried, it may make sense to wipe with a clean rag and some mineral spirits to remove the bleed out in the grain.

The rest of the box looks well made (what we can see of it.) Just don't get impatient with the finish. Without exception, every time I rushed a finish to "just be done already", it turned out poorly. I would be using ONLY the products I know will reliably do the job. If you think the old poly might be salvageable, experiment on a piece of scrap wood first before applying it to your project.

My 2 cents.
Welcome to Lumberjocks.


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## jeffswildwood (Dec 26, 2012)

I have used poly in that condition. The first coat was a nightmare to smooth. Runs were the biggest problem. The second and third coat was even worse! A fight all the way! Never again, I would get a new can and get better and easier results. Save the old stuff for mixing and base coat on flat surfaces. After all the work you put into a project, why take a chance on old poly.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I congratulate DS and Jeff for positive remarks staying on point and constructive help for a new member, something I felt I should have done a better job of doing on this post. Thanks for helping keep Ljs be a more positive place to visit.


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## BobVila (Nov 11, 2017)

> Bob, regardless if you are the famous Bob, or not, hopefully we all here can help each other improve and learn in our craft.
> In that spirit, please allow me to make a couple of observations on your box that might help going forward.
> 
> 
> ...


Oh yea. Man, I was so disappointed when I put that stain on and saw how much it amplified those planer marks. I really liked that piece of oak.

But, about the full dry time, I'm asking because I let it go 24 hours (VERY dry in my basement), is it possible those darker patterns were made from not applying the stain evenly? Or, how long should I be letting stain dry?

And just a side note, the rest of the box is NOT ok, lol.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> I congratulate DS and Jeff for positive remarks staying on point and constructive help for a new member, something I felt I should have done a better job of doing on this post. Thanks for helping keep Ljs be a more positive place to visit.
> 
> - a1Jim


If you're going to congratulate them, you need to include Brad, TungOil, Fred, pontic, and dare I say it - me. All contributed useful comments. Most were ignored as is often the case on LJ, but nonetheless, they were made. I guess it's too much trouble for folks to actually read the thread.


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## BobVila (Nov 11, 2017)

I read them all, thanks to all for the advice. I like forums that have a "like" button next to all responses on threads, a way of acknowledging w/o having to write up responses for each.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

> But, about the full dry time, I m asking because I let it go 24 hours (VERY dry in my basement), is it possible those darker patterns were made from not applying the stain evenly? Or, how long should I be letting stain dry?
> 
> - BobVila


That would be more than plenty of time for drying. 
As i said, open grain wood tends to bleed the stain back up when it dries. Wiping with a clean rag with a little mineral spirits in it will clean off the excess stain that comes back to the surface.

It should be no problem after the stain is applied to go back and sand again then restain. Charles Neil even uses stain to show him the imperfections on purpose. (What he calls a trace coat) I, personally, prefer a flood light at my work bench to show me what's up. (Then I'm only staining once)

Once you seal it, it would be near impossible to clean out the grain short of re-planing it.
Consider these as "lessons learned" for the next project and you will be creating masterpieces in no time.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Right again Rich thank you all.
Bob The members of LJs where asked if we wanted a "like "button but the end results seemed to be that it was not wanted for just the reason you stated, we wanted comments not just likes or no likes.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> Right again Rich thank you all.
> Bob The members of LJs where asked if we wanted a "like "button but the end results seemed to be that it was not wanted for just the reason you stated, we wanted comments not just likes or no likes.
> 
> - a1Jim


Besides, we have the +1. Gotta love that, even though some jokesters think saying +1000 is cool. It's like saying you're giving it 110%. Can't be done.

+1 on your comment, Jim. You always give it 100%.

And remember: Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them and you have their shoes. - Jack Handey


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> Right again Rich thank you all.
> Bob The members of LJs where asked if we wanted a "like "button but the end results seemed to be that it was not wanted for just the reason you stated, we wanted comments not just likes or no likes.
> 
> - a1Jim
> ...


+1000


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Bob, something to try the next time: before you get ready to move on check your boards by wiping a little mineral spirits on them. Just a damp rag ( I keep a spray bottle of it on hand for this and other things). The MS will give you a preview of your wood with a finish, and that will reveal any machine marks that need attention as well as other flaws. It dries off quickly, and has no effect on further operations of any kind.


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## BobVila (Nov 11, 2017)

> Bob, something to try the next time: before you get ready to move on check your boards by wiping a little mineral spirits on them. Just a damp rag ( I keep a spray bottle of it on hand for this and other things). The MS will give you a preview of your wood with a finish, and that will reveal any machine marks that need attention as well as other flaws. It dries off quickly, and has no effect on further operations of any kind.
> 
> - Fred Hargis


That's a good idea, thanks.

Is there a way to make the wood grain pop w/o adding stain? I mean a permanent pop. Te reason I'm asking is because the insde of the box (and the drawer) have an awesome wood grain pattern on them, I'd like it to stand out, but I didn't want to stain the inside.

I just don't want to change the inside color very much. I'm ok with it going a shade darker though, but I like the inside unfinished wood color, and I'm interested in bringing out that pattern. I'll take a picure of it when I get home and show it to you, its really nice.


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

> Is there a way to make the wood grain pop w/o adding stain? I mean a permanent pop. Te reason I m asking is because the insde of the box (and the drawer) have an awesome wood grain pattern on them, I d like it to stand out, but I didn t want to stain the inside.
> 
> I just don t want to change the inside color very much. I m ok with it going a shade darker though, but I like the inside unfinished wood color, and I m interested in bringing out that pattern. I ll take a picure of it when I get home and show it to you, its really nice.
> 
> - BobVila


You might try some wipe on poly or Waterlox Original (no stain) to get the grain to pop without appreciable darkening. Try it on a scrap first to be sure you like it. The Minwax wipe-on poly is easy to apply and will bring up the grain a bit.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

The only caution I can add for finishing the drawer interior is avoid unsealed oils. The smell never really goes away and can get transferred to whatever you put in there. Shellac is a great sealer and does a good job of popping grain on its own.


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## BobVila (Nov 11, 2017)

- BobVila

You might try some wipe on poly or Waterlox Original (no stain) to get the grain to pop without appreciable darkening. Try it on a scrap first to be sure you like it. The Minwax wipe-on poly is easy to apply and will bring up the grain a bit.

- TungOil
[/QUOTE]



> The only caution I can add for finishing the drawer interior is avoid unsealed oils. The smell never really goes away and can get transferred to whatever you put in there. Shellac is a great sealer and does a good job of popping grain on its own.
> 
> - splintergroup


Perfect, thanks!


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

A little late to the party but I'll agree, if it's a project of significance (yours subjectively) I'd opt for a new can. That being said, I threw together a small live edge foot stool that was proof of concept more than anything, destined for shop duty. It turned out alright and I had nothing in a clear poly but some Old Masters water borne poly that had a viscosity a little closer to set pudding than water so I took a chance and by golly if it didn't work. Only two coats to boot with a light sanding between. The high viscosity helped cover and adhere the bark pretty well too.


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## BobVila (Nov 11, 2017)

> A little late to the party but I ll agree, if it s a project of significance (yours subjectively) I d opt for a new can. That being said, I threw together a small live edge foot stool that was proof of concept more than anything, destined for shop duty. It turned out alright and I had nothing in a clear poly but some Old Masters water borne poly that had a viscosity a little closer to set pudding than water so I took a chance and by golly if it didn t work. Only two coats to boot with a light sanding between. The high viscosity helped cover and adhere the bark pretty well too.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


Oh cool. No, this wasn't a project of significance to me, was just bored in my dad's shop, threw together a plywood drawer then actually built the box around it. All leftover scraps from more important projects to me.

I probably would have held off, but decided to try it and post this to see what people had to say about it.

I do think the finish (the polyurethane portion of it) turned out ok. I still haven't put the shellack in the drawer and top compartment yet.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I forgot I had a picture I could share. Not enough detail to really show the finish all that well, but you get the idea.


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## BobVila (Nov 11, 2017)

Yea, that's about as good as the camera on my phone gets.


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## WoodyWoodPecker5252 (May 23, 2017)

Bob, (yea right) I'm Tim the tool man Taylor, I can see the finish just fine in that pic and it's ok. If I can offer a bit of constructive criticism, be sure to sand between coats, I do see a bit of dust nibs in this picture but as you said, it's not the most significant project to you.

Also, I see you're new to the forum, welcome. Just a bit of advice, I noticed there are repeat offenders on here that seem to enjoy the protection of moderators, and seem to find it necessary to put others down for validation. Just gather the constructive parts, leave the rest, and keep glue'n & screwin'!


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## BobVila (Nov 11, 2017)

Thanks!

And yea, I didn't take my time with it, if I'm being honest.

And yea, it's the net, you sort of run into every walk of life on any forum, no big deal.


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