# best router for router table



## pvmsteve (Sep 17, 2012)

I will be purchasing the bench dog Pro Max cast iron router table (40-102) to put on my Ridgid table saw ( R4512)I need some input as to which router would be best. I want to be able to adjust the depth and also change bits from the top of the router table. Also which is the best side to mount it on the saw. Thanks for any advice.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

All of the Triton Routers have their own lifting mechanism, and that alone can save you up to a couple hundred$$. I had to drill the crank hole but other than that it is a straight forward mounting process.









NOTE: The fence is in "storage position" NOT used in that orientation.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

Milwaukee 5625-20 or porter cable 7518.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

I have the Milwaukee 5625. It's a monster. I use it in a lift, but if too can be raised through the table like Mike's Triton. Highly recommended.

I also have the Pro Max extension on my Unisaw. It's just terrific. I use mine on the left side to provide greater accessability and an extended work area.

The right side is a logical location as well, but it doesn't really extend the working areas if you have something like a rolling cart/storage already built in at the right hand side, which I do.

I don't like the router access on that side; however, most TS fences can do double-duty there…so that's a positive aspect. I have an Incra TSLS fence, so I can just slide mine over to use it with the router as well. Likewise, you might not care about that since the Pro Max comes with an excellent fence in its own regard.

That said, much of the position will be dictated by the TS motor. On a left-tilting saw, you might have no choice than to put it on the right side. My Unisaw is right-tilting. Unless I put it way out on the rail (you wouldn't do that with the Benchdog), it would hit the TS motor cover.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Jay,
Have you compared your self-lifting mechanism with you "purchased" lift?

If so, can you share some detailed impressions and/or measurements?


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

The Tritons and Freuds have the most topside features, and allow easy one handed bit changes from above the table level….you don't need to remove the inserts, or use a bent wrench, or reach below to activate the height lock,etc.


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## pvmsteve (Sep 17, 2012)

Thanks for the responce, I will check out the Triton Routers, Mike where would be a good source for that router


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

I found one of mine at WoodCraft, the other online. If you go online you have a better chance of finding the best price, though if I recall correctly pricing seems to fluctuate in tandem across the board.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I'm with Horizontal with the big Triton. I had to drill a hole in my plate for the lift mechanism. I've been really happy with mine and I even added a cheap digital depth meter.


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## josephf (Aug 29, 2012)

Those who own the triton -how much do you use them . Bought one a few years back .Inexpensive and the router came with all types of extra's . I immediately had trouble with the lift ,only plastic parts .after the second time the lift broke i added a Router Raiser .they work well . It's a plastic case router so the deflection under load makes sense . Limits the cut depth and bit size . It was smoking the other day ,thought it was a goner , but it is still working ready for the cabinet door job next week . I have roughly 10 routers two always under a table and a third that is sometimes under a table . I think it is an inexpensive router that is a -"get what you pay for item" .I would not buy another .


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

No, I haven't tried that, Mike. I went straight from a Rockler FX lift/Bosch 1617 setup to the Woodpeckers PRLv2/Milwaukee 5625 setup. I certainly wanted the larger router, but I also wanted to upgrade from the Rockler lift because I never could get the backlash worked out of it…and I thought it was a little sloppy in terms of rigidity and would often slip in its height adjustment during a cut.

I didn't even give soloing the 5625 a thought. I would test it now, but I don't necessarily want to purchase a new plate just to perform that experiment.

I love the PRLv2 chiefly because it handles the big Milwaukee so well. Mine is also coupled to a Wixey Digital, and that works pretty precisely with the height adjustment…so there's a lot of accuracy in getting to the right bit height quickly. But the best part about the lift is that I don't have to crank it for bit changes and when "rough setting" the height. I just use the quick wrench. This is REALLY important for me because my router is on an extension wing of my table saw. It makes for much faster transitioning between router mode and table saw mode…which isn't a big deal until you actually have to do it.

The question that most people have is, "Is the lift worth it?" For me, yes. Mostly because of both accuracy and speed of setup…simultaneously. Without the lift, you might be able to have both, but not at the same time. But with a good set of setup blocks or hand-held digital height gauges, then you can certainly do accurate work as long as there's no play in the system. You don't want it moving during a cut, either by flexure or in its adjustments.

I do have concerns about the rigidity of the plunge mechanism on a router as compared to the beefy structure of a good lift. I have no foundation for that conjecture other than a feeling, but I knew I'd be spinning a large panel-raising bit so I didn't want to take a chance on that.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Oh, and I believe you'd have to drop the motor to do bit changes on the Milwaukee when used in a table with its plunge base. I wouldn't want to do that, especially since I knew I'd have it in an enclosure.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

@josephf,
If you are not aware of this, TRITON upgraded the lifting worm on their routers some time ago. I actually reviewed that upgrade here:
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/1983


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Josephf, I've abused mine pretty throughly. Like Sniper, I also had the big Freud until someone stole it. I replaced it with a Speedmatic that I like a bit less. The Freud also comes on sale pretty often.
.
Back to Josephf, the Triton setup will never compete with a Woodpecker or Jessum. Mine has a little bit of slop and I don't like having to reach under the table to lock it. I don't really use the above the table feature much b/c when I crouch down, the digital display is right in front of me. I just raise it where I want and wiggle it a big before locking. The power is there and the variable speed is nice. Not too screamingly loud either. I just don't believe it'll ever compete with a big PC motor-only and a quality raiser, but the price is definitely right.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Mike brings up a good point; you must upgrade the worm. And don't forget to take out the plunge spring; I didn't for the longest time.


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## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

Another vote for Woodpecker quick lift technology!

I have the old Quicklift 420. They didn't have the PRL when I bought my router lift. You simply cannot believe the convenience of this feature until you use it on a couple of projects with multiple bit changes.

And you cannot beat Woodpecker quality and finish. I have had this lift for going on 5 years now and it has worked flawlessly. Not production, just weekend warrior hobbiest duty but it has had pretty constant use.

"Is the lift worth it?" You betcha! No, plunge routers with only a crank don't compare.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I have a Benchdog RT mounted on the left side of my TS because there was more room to use it.
It is over the blade tilt handwheel but does not really stop me from using it.

As far as routers go I use a PC 690 series.

I also made a number of mounting plates including one for my Bosch Colt.

The only thing wish I had was decent insert rings …. as of now I have none (hence the mounting plates)!
I have been thinking about getting a router lift … which one … I think this one!










*I really like the the RT but not all lifts will fit!* The one above will as there two sizes available.


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## pvmsteve (Sep 17, 2012)

Thanks for all the responces, Im more confused than ever!!!!! No really. Im leaning toward the Triton setup. I'm curious way Bertha would say that the Triton setup would not compete with a riser set up. I'm just asking the question because I have had neither. Well maybe I am a little confused


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Steve - I'm guessing that Bertha means that a router in a separate lift setup is a slicker setup than a router with it's own height adjustment built in….as in the lifts have finer easier adjustments with less backlash…an advantage that there's a pretty hefty cost involved with. I've never owned a lift, and have never felt that I was missing anything….I'm sure a lift would be great, but I can't justify the expense when what I have has worked quite well.


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## pvmsteve (Sep 17, 2012)

Knotscott, thanks I am beginning to understand. With the table @ 3 hunderd and the router close to that Im at my limit for now. Thanks everyone for your advice


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

I have the big triton. It came with the plastic screw and triton sent me the metal replacement. Quick service and it works great. I've used it a lot and it's done a good job. The big one is a beast in that it just hogs wood and doesn't slow down at all.

Here's an old review I did at LJ's three years ago. the pictures are outdated and don''t show anymore but at the bottom are two videos of me using the router and of the lift and change locking mechanism.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Steve,
I'm glad you asked the OP question and that there are so many varied responses. It looks like the bottom line is:

For those with the spare $$$ then buying a dedicated LIFT is the way to go
For those with less $$$ buying the SELF-LIFTING routers is the way to go

Both methods appear to be accurate enough to do excellent work, but as Jay alluded to above, the SELF-LIFTING router systems may/do take a bit longer to set and use. At least we have happy campers on both sides of the debate


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Excellent summary, Mike.

Like Scott said, most people have no need for a lift. I would add that most people do not realize what they are missing with a router lift. But once you've used one, you'll know. At that point, you have to decide if it's worth the money.

I hate removing a router to change bits. Even using the plunge base on the Milwaukee 5625, I would hate to pull that heavy thing out through my small dust enclosure each time I needed a new bit…which is often. That's the problem with routers…to work a board, you may need three different bit profiles to get the result that you could do in one pass with a shaper. But with a some lifts, you just pop it up with the "quick wrench," change the bit, and lower it back down. It literally take seconds.

The great thing about the Triton and Milwaukee is that you can try it without a lift first. You can always buy the lift later…if you feel compelled to do so.

EDIT: I realize that you could just pull out the router with the plate back up through the hole, but that's still a pain (my Milwaukee with plate would be heavy), it makes for awkward bit changes, and it might affect the set-screw leveling of the plate to the table. Because a lift allows the collet to rise above the plate (with many routers), it makes for unencumbered use of your wrenches.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Oh, regardless, I would recommend investing in a good router plate, particularly one with interchangeable inserts of good quality. My Rockler FX also had such inserts, but they were really flimsy and I couldn't ever get them flush. If the inserts have to be shimmed, then I'd go with a different plate.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Please note that my table-mounted Triton also lifts the collet high/clear enough for bit changing WITHOUT the need to remove the router from the table, just like a purpose-built lift. If this were not possible, I know that I would have passed on this purchase.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Mike's point about the collet clearing the table surface is true of the Freud FT3000 and FT1700 too…I don't know of any other routers that do that without an extenstion (though I've always wondered why it's not more common….it's a game changing feature IMO. I've also often wondered why more routers don't have built in lights, on-board wrench storage, and flat tops so you can stand the router upside down easily….even my old $30 cheapie Craftsman had those, but many "better" routers don't.)


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Cool. Good to know, guys. I'm pretty sure with the Milwaukee 5625 that it's difficult to do. You would certainly have to remove the insert and squeeze in a wrench to reach the bottom nut. It might be doable, but to what level of ability and convenience is questionable.

BTW, even with a lift you'd need to remove the insert…so that's no big deal. But it does make having a good insert system important.

Even so, all this makes the "need" for a lift a question that only the end user can answer.

Know thy router; know thyself.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Although I don't have a lift yet, being able to change bits above the table was one of my criterion for selecting the one above in my previous post.

I found out that the plunge router modification kits cannot bring the collect above the table and bent wrenches are required.


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## surfin2 (Oct 24, 2009)

*For those with the spare $$$ then buying a dedicated LIFT is the way to go
For those with less $$$ buying the SELF-LIFTING routers is the way to go

For those who care about precision above the table is not the way to go…. *


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Rick,

Please explain *"For those who care about precision above the table is not the way to go…."*


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## surfin2 (Oct 24, 2009)

*Not the table,* routers with above the table adjustments…

I'm speaking specifically of the 890 PC….

I've heard people with different brand, above the table adjustments say the same thing…


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Got it!


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## surfin2 (Oct 24, 2009)

I've been dealing with all the reasons why they buy a router lift….

I can't justify the price for a Router lift but I'm thinking about it….

I'd like to get the INCRA PRL-V2 Lift MagnaLOCK {$329)....


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Rick: Just FYI, if it applies to you. Of course, the Incra PRLv2 and the Woodpeckers version are the same. Incra's version does use the magnetic inserts vs. the Woodpeckers ABS plastic inserts (which are solid).

I would have gotten the Incra version since everything else of mine is also Incra; however, Incra did not make theirs in the Bench Dog size format, which isn't as deep as typical. So, I had to opt for the Woodpeckers version.

For all, if you are contemplating a lift, remember that there are a few different plate standards out there, so you have to get the correct size for your table. But this is no different than buying just the plate for a standalone application.


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## surfin2 (Oct 24, 2009)

I got a plate from Rockler a few years ago with the plastic inserts….

I wasn't happy with them so I got the Incra Magnalock plate 3/8 with the insert kit….

Now I have to recut the opening, the incra plate is bigger and deeper then the Rockler Plate…


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*surfin2,*

One of the tings I want was easy reducer ring installation/removal. I didn't want to remove/replace screws just to change a bit.
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There is some business connection between Incra, Jessem, Kreg, and Woodpeckers as their lifts not only look alike in many ways but also share some specifications. I did not include Rockler as I assume theirs is a private label from one of the major manufacturers.

The MLCS, Benchdog, SmartLift, and some others seem to veer off of this course and I am sure I missed some.

If you do a search for router lift images there are 10 pages with obviously some repeats … that's a lot of router lifts and I have researched nearly all of them to select the one that will fit into my Benchdog table and use my PC/Bosch routers without special adapter sleeves.


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