# Jig to rip boards at an angle?



## Zvonko (Nov 28, 2018)

I've seen plenty of jigs for cutting angles on a table saw. I'm wondering if anyone has seen a table saw jig for ripping boards at an angle?

It's a pain to kneel down and turn the wheel to get the blade set to an angle. The thing is, even after doing that I can not reproduce the exact same angle later. Seems like having some kind of jig that let's you put the board at an angle instead of turning the blade.

Hope that makes sense


----------



## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I've seen them made for doing raised panels and mitering case edges. One downside of such jigs is that they are bulky.

I had a Tannewitz table saw with a tilting fence one could use to rip an angle without tilting the blade.


----------



## wildwoodbybrianjohns (Aug 22, 2019)

is this what you mean? many versions of this type can be found on youtube. I have a post for this one on my projects page, page 4


----------



## Zvonko (Nov 28, 2018)

> is this what you mean?
> 
> - wildwoodbybrianjohns


Not quite although I like this one too. This seems to me more of a jig to do miter cuts on table saw. I'm talking about a jig that allows you to rip a board length-wise at an angle. For example, to make my french cleats, I'll rip a 1×6 down the middle at a 45 angle.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

A magnetic angle cube can help a lot to get the blade beveled at the exact intended angle. Maybe I'm missing what makes it hard. Seems simpler to me to just angle the blade. As for the difficulty of getting down and turning the crank, you can get you a foam knee board at HF for about $5 - 2 inch think stiff foam about 12×18 inches. But then you won't be able to see the angle cube. On my contractor saw it doesn't seem hard to do standing up.


----------



## BlasterStumps (Mar 13, 2017)

Do you have a track saw? Seems that would be a good method for that rip cut.


----------



## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

The blade angle setting on your table saw was specifically included to make angled rip cuts possible. If the setting is too tight, try lubricating it. If the pointer arrow is off, set it to zero when the blade is exactly vertical. It should not require getting on your knees!


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Track saw


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> It's a pain to kneel down and turn the wheel to get the blade set to an angle. The thing is, even after doing that I can not reproduce the exact same angle later. Seems like having some kind of jig that let's you put the board at an angle instead of turning the blade.


The bevel adjustment on your table saw is for doing exactly what you want to do. If you want accurate bevels, then get an angle gauge like the Wixey or similar. I have no idea why you would need to get on your knees to set the angle though.









Also, you mentioned doing 45 degree cuts. There should be an adjustable positive stop on your saw for 90 and 45 degrees. Once you set them accurately, you never have to touch them again, and doing those 45 degree cuts simply requires you tilting the blade until it hits the stop. After making your bevel cuts, simply crank the blade the other way until it hits the 90 degree stop.

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

I can move the fence to one side of the blade or the other so the board is between the fence and the blade, but is it better for the cutoff piece to be on top of the blade or under it?


----------



## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

Besides setting the angle there is the problem of consistently holding the board down and against the fence. There are a number of hold downs and feather board applications you can use to help with that that have worked for me.

As I look at the idea the jig would have to be mounted to the saw and the board slid through a guide on the jig.

Most of my cuts like that have been to miter plywood cases for a flow over affect of the grain or to hide the edge grain but it would be hard to run a sheet of plywood through a jig.

I think what us old guys need is a "power" tilt on our table saw so we don't have to get down on our knees to turn the handle. Then a power feed for running the board through the blade. Of course it should be computerized and controlled from our smart phone app too. LOL But wait we could buy a CNC machine to do all that instead of using the talb saw. I knew there must be a reason to convince my wife to buy a CNC.


----------



## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> . I have no idea why you would need to get on your knees to set the angle though.
> 
> - MrUnix


Yeah I'm not following. On my saw i just use my arm to reach down…


----------



## Zvonko (Nov 28, 2018)

> . I have no idea why you would need to get on your knees to set the angle though.
> 
> - MrUnix
> 
> ...


I'm 6'4" so I've always had to bend pretty far to get to most things!

Why do I need to get on my knees? Bad back, arthritis, and my height make it difficult for me to just bend down anymore. Getting on my knees to look at the angle markings as I tilt the blade is more comfortable than bending over and possibly getting one of those "lovely" spasms in my back.


----------



## Zvonko (Nov 28, 2018)

> The bevel adjustment on your table saw is for doing exactly what you want to do. If you want accurate bevels, then get an angle gauge like the Wixey or similar. I have no idea why you would need to get on your knees to set the angle though.


Yea, I know that's what it's for. Just wondered if there was a jig for something like that. It's very uncomfortable for me to stand, bend at the waist to turn the angle adjustment wheel under the saw and watch the angle gauge (A good idea that someone suggested a while ago). Getting on my knees feels more stable for me and less chance of sudden back spasms



> Also, you mentioned doing 45 degree cuts. There should be an adjustable positive stop on your saw for 90 and 45 degrees. Once you set them accurately, you never have to touch them again, and doing those 45 degree cuts simply requires you tilting the blade until it hits the stop. After making your bevel cuts, simply crank the blade the other way until it hits the 90 degree stop.


I'm using a Delta 10" contractor table saw (36-725). unfortunately, it doesn't have adjustable positive stops that I can see. Having the positive stops would make a huge difference.


----------



## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

In all my years I do not think I have ever trusted the markings on the saw for the angles. Before I got a Wixey, I'd always use a protractor and bevel gauge, Aside from building an 8' long sled with an angled bed I can't think of any other way to do what you're asking. The track saw is a good idea, but a Wixey would be WAY cheaper.


----------



## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

I feel your pain……

I think something could be fashioned in the way of a sled that registers off the fence, and tilts and securely holds a board. Something like what WWBBJ shows but longer.


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> I'm using a Delta 10" contractor table saw (36-725). unfortunately, it doesn't have adjustable positive stops that I can see. Having the positive stops would make a huge difference.


That saw has extremely easy to set positive stops, accessible from the top of the table. Check your manual, page 15 under the assembly section titled "ADJUSTING 90° AND 45° POSITIVE BEVEL STOPS"

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

It seems to me that any jig allowing you rip angles is going to be somewhat unmanageable. When you rip you'll need to insure the workpiece is flat down against the jig and I can't think of a safe and easy way to that. If the jig is something you clamp to the workpiece, it's going to a long jig (probably) making the whole setup a lot of work to move through the saw. What about ripping on a bandsaw instead?


----------



## Zvonko (Nov 28, 2018)

> Most of my cuts like that have been to miter plywood cases for a flow over affect of the grain or to hide the edge grain but it would be hard to run a sheet of plywood through a jig.
> - LesB


Agreed. I was thinking more of just ripping boards instead of big sheets.



> I think what us old guys need is a "power" tilt on our table saw so we don t have to get down on our knees to turn the handle. Then a power feed for running the board through the blade. Of course it should be computerized and controlled from our smart phone app too. LOL But wait we could buy a CNC machine to do all that instead of using the talb saw. I knew there must be a reason to convince my wife to buy a CNC.
> - LesB


I like how you think


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Well, if you could make your saw stand taller it might help. Also you could use a child… As in "granddaughter dear, could you please turn that crank for me until I say stop"


----------



## Zvonko (Nov 28, 2018)

> In all my years I do not think I have ever trusted the markings on the saw for the angles. Before I got a Wixey, I d always use a protractor and bevel gauge, Aside from building an 8 long sled with an angled bed I can t think of any other way to do what you re asking. The track saw is a good idea, but a Wixey would be WAY cheaper.
> 
> - ChefHDAN


I agree about the Wixey. I always struggled with trying to get the angle just right. I'd draw the angle on the material and then try to line up the blade, but that's never really a good way of doing something that you want to easily reproduce.

With the Wixey, I just put it on the saw surface, zero it out and then put it on the blade surface and start cranking. Now if only my body would be nicer to me, I wouldn't mind turning that wheel to angle the saw.


----------



## Tony1212 (Aug 26, 2013)

> In all my years I do not think I have ever trusted the markings on the saw for the angles. Before I got a Wixey, I d always use a protractor and bevel gauge, Aside from building an 8 long sled with an angled bed I can t think of any other way to do what you re asking. The track saw is a good idea, but a Wixey would be WAY cheaper.
> 
> - ChefHDAN
> 
> ...


I've always wanted to add stepper motors and DROs to my height and angle cranks. But my bank account keeps telling me, "Now's not the time."


----------



## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

I often use the angled ripping capability of my table saw to taper off the back edges of relief woodcarvings. First, I set the fence for the thickness of material I want to leave on the edge. Then I raise the blade and tilt it away from the fence side, checking to see the angle meets the surface. Then I can run all four sides without resetting.


----------

