# Rockler Fence Flip Stop Does Not Work



## Peteybadboy (Jan 23, 2013)

i agree when pressed the stop moves too much


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## Arcola60 (Nov 16, 2011)

The actual flip stop should rotate on a "body" bolt not threads, too sloppy. It should be captured with some retaining clip, to remove the side to side slop. It is not a precision, repeatable designed accessory.


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## Bobthewoodbutcher (May 13, 2015)

Same problem here. I have this stop on my cross cut sled, and it is barely useable as long as you always put pressure on in one direction. Very sloppy indeed. I don't use it for any accurate work.


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## edapp (Jun 27, 2014)

I have the Kreg version of this on my miter saw, and the Incra version on my table saw. I have been happy with both, and prefer the kreg (quick, easy adjustments, magnified cursor) where it is and the Incra (very fine adjustments possible, very securely locks down) where it is.

Wouldn't change a thing.


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

This is interesting enough that I ventured out to my frigid shop with a camera. I think that this could be a case of "New and Improved and a Whole Lot Worse."

I got my stop from Rockler 10 or 11 years ago. It has always been solid. This review made me curious. Before doing anything, I flipped it up and down 50 times.

Here it is with no sideways pressure:









Here it is with more sideways pressure than I would ever use









One difference that I notice is the shape of the surface that meets the track. This probably does not relate you your problem of the slop in the pivoting area, but it still seems better on my old one.

Here is yours:









Here is mine:









Yours is more beveled on the bottom edges leaving less surface to contact the T-track than mine. Here is mine on the track:









Also, mine seems to have faded. Maybe they improved the anodizing process and broke the functionality! If you want to do something worse than poorly design a product, you should "upgrade" and ruin a working one.


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## Desert_Woodworker (Jan 28, 2015)

Thanks, Chuck for the info
Oh and a nice review…


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

To get a tight fitting and accurate boss to slide in the track you have to machine it. Using the extruded aluminum part as is …..is in my humble opinion… inexcusable.

As with many extruding and molding operations, there are many process variables that will affect the final geometry. And get this news flash! Variables vary from one day to the next.

If you have a dimension critical to the function of the mechanism you machine it…. period.

Sloppy execution of what should be a simple and straight forward design. These retail moguls presume a lot when they venture into specifying designs for production. You can't outsource your details to China. They are more than happy to tell you the spec is good enough and ship you the least compliant part possible.


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## dday (Jun 27, 2014)

I understand the machining reference.. but when I purchase something the is manufactured to standard tolerances to fit a t-track, it should fit the t-track sufficiently to work correctly, otherwise, I will return it.

If it comes like a piece for handgun and final fitting is required, then it should say so and be priced accordingly.


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## Pop (Aug 6, 2007)

I think my Kreg stops have it beat.

Pop Golden


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

I have two of these, and I don't measure from the top of the fence, I always measure from the table side. I've had no problems.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

i have two, one on each side of my saw and have not had any issues so far,the are both solid with no slop.i bought about 2 years ago.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

The problem with setting a bolt into T track, is the bolt heads want to move as you tighten them, plus they don't want to get tight.

This is clearly a money issue, until you make a saddle of wood that straddles your fence, and locks to the fence itself. At the cheaper end like this Rockler entry it just uses less expensive pieces, but the issue is the locking, and it moves when tightening, and if not torqued down will move a bit. 1/4 20 bolt, instead of something more robust.

Kregs is slightly better, twice the price.

Incras is likely the best of the retail sold versions, again $$$$$ about twice the Kreg. Still 1/4 20 tightening, but uses 2 contact points, so much more secure, with a lot less pressure.

To make a straddle fence, it's about 3 bux of scrap wood, and a bolt. Or just a straddle fence, and set it where you want, and put on a clamp to the off side to limit the fences movement. No flipper, you just take it off, set it tight to where you want it. Works the best too. Plus you save more, because it works as well on just a wooden board fence, as it does on the expensive extruded variety.

I find when I am cutting to exact length, I do it for all the pieces near the end of the build, so it's either on, or off for me, and when it's on sliding it up and down the fence to your precise set point couldn't be easier. Lock it tight, and relax as you make perfect cuts.

Something like this.


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