# Injured Lefthanded Newcomer



## DCarrier (Nov 23, 2011)

I only signed up with Lumberjocks yesterday and I enjoy the forums very much. OK so I always wanted to do woodworking and last year I found an entire hobby shop for sale by a neighbor that was being relocated. Since then I have lived in my basement shop. I am currently unemployed and this hobby keeps my mind off the work issue. Anyway to the point. I had my first accident this morning and I'm in a hell of a lot of pain. My Grizzly 1023 table say delivered a 1×6x24 into my gut and bladder. The wife happened to be home so not only is there pain and blood theres a I told you so look in her eyes. I have been able to hobble back to the shop to try and determine where I went wrong. I had just joined the edge of the board and was ripping the opposite edge for cleanup and gluing. Based on the look of the board, somehow i came off the rip fence and traveled into the blade (left of the fence). I am usually very attentive but I now have the tatoo to prove thats not always true. Anyway here's what I need you heys to tell me:

I'm lefthanded. I have the rip fence to the right of the blade. Is that correct?
Where should I stand?
I'm a big guy (6') but I always feel over extended when using my push device to rip a board. I use a store bought orange saw handle type device with a rubber bottom. Where should I place the device in relationship to the length of the board? I typically start about 1 foot back from the leading edge.

My saw does not have a splitter or riving knife. It did not come with one. Should I try to resolve this issue? I don't need the OSHA answer just tell me what you guys do.

Any advice given appreciated, I never want to experience this again.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

I would highly recommend either purchasing or making a splitter or riving knife. Sometimes when you cut wood, you relieve stress within the board and it can move on you just enough to make contact with the back of the blade, which will grab it and throw it at you, somewhere around 110-MPH, as per your experience above.

Are you also using a featherboard to help hold the wood against the fence as you're ripping it? If you're not using one, that's another safety device to add to your setup. I really like the Magswitch featherboard, as opposed to the ones that ride in your TS miter slot because they're so easy to use. They make several different types. The Magswitchs are a bit more expensive, but in my opinion, they're worth it.

I can't answer the left-handed question for you, but now I'm wondering where you stand? Are you using your right hand and standing to the left of the fence?

It's good that you're using a push pad. I'm just sorry to hear about your run-in with kickback. With that being said, welcome to LumberJocks!


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## SeaWitch (Nov 5, 2011)

Welcome DCarrier. My first question is, do you need to go to the hospital?

I agree with Jonathan. If nothing else, you need a splitter or riving knife. A lot of people swear by this one although you can also make your own. I also suggest the Magswitch.

Most people stand off to the left, but I stand off to the right as much as possible, so I'm never behind the blade.

I hope you feel better. (


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## DCarrier (Nov 23, 2011)

Jonathan,

Thanks for the quick reply!
I use my left hand to push the wood through so i stand slightly left of the blade and almost centered on the rip fence. I don't think my old saw supports a riving knife I'll have to research how to add a splitter.


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## DCarrier (Nov 23, 2011)

Seawitch,

As of now no hospital required. Bleeding has stopped and the brusing is about basketball size. Hellva a lesson! I'll look intp the MJ splitter. My problem is I have an old Grizzly 1023 left tilt and do not have a zero clearance insert.

Don


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## SeaWitch (Nov 5, 2011)

Don, I'm sure others will chime in here shortly. There are several aftermarket splitters/riving knives available that attach to the trunnion and not the insert. You can also make a zero clearance insert to stick a splitter in, but you would have to change it out if you tilt the blade.

I'm more concerned about your injury. Sorry to be a sissy but a blow like that to the abdomen in no joke. Keep an eye on it, and if you have blood in the urine>>>>>>HOSPITAL.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

DCarrier SAID: *My saw does not have a splitter or riving knife*

Problem solved. GET A RIVING KNIFE at a minimum. You did not say how old your G1023 is, so CALL Grizzly and get the appropriate one for your model of the G1023 TS ASAP, as if your life depends on it (it does).

I also use a pair of Yellow Board Buddies, and do NOT forget to get the 24in Board Buddies Track to mount them onto the fence, in combination with the riving knife. This allows me to have the protection of an overhead splitter without the hassle. This is the riving knife on MY Grizzly G0690.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

Welcome to the wonderful world of wood working!

Sorry to hear about your little mishap, I'm just glad it wasn't any worse.

Now…. Lefthandedness….....

I'm also a 6' southpaw, and I usually stand to the right of the blade because my left hand is dominant, stronger, and I have better feeling and control with it. I had some nerve damage in my right hand and it doesn't work as well as it use to.
Yes, it is a little bit awkward to reach over the fence at times, but unless I have a tall feather board mounted to the fence, I feel safer. The on/off switch paddle is also on the right side of the saw and if I stand on the left it's not easy to reach. 
I can also stand on the left side of the blade, and do when using feather boards or the miter sled, just make sure you don't use the fence and the miter at the same time.

I agree with Jonathan, get or make a riving knife or splitter. I have mine off right now because I have a dado blade on but otherwise it will be back on as soon as I go back to a regular blade.

One thing I would recommend, and I tell this to a lot of my friends who have never used any table saw but mine…. THINK AHEAD. Don't be in a hurry to make a cut. Look at the cut you want to make and THINK about what it will take to make it look like you want it to. THINK about how you need to set up for the cut. THINK about what all can go wrong and change your setup to minimize any potential danger or problems.

Above all, don't be in a hurry. The wood will get cut, the project will get done and you will remain uninjured for a much longer time. If you get in a hurry things become un-square, parts don't fit and you have a good chance of putting more of your hard won blood sweat and tears into the project than you wished.

Good Luck

DF


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## DCarrier (Nov 23, 2011)

Mike, I don't believe a riving knife is possible on a Grizzly 1023 (I think it's ten years old) I'm researching now but so far no one offers on including Grizzly. Grizzly's splitter is intregral to the balde guard for this model and it's a beast. My saw has the stock shop fox fence (biesemeyer clone). Do the board buddies work with this fence?

I really do get that my life depends on it. As of now it looks like a zero clearance guard from grizzly and the splitter suggested by Seawitch. I'll keep looking. I'm in no hurry to go back to the shop 

Don


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

I hope that you heal quickly.

There was a pretty lengthy discussion of the positioning question a while back:
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/11398


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Yes, I believe the Board Buddy Track can be mounted directly on top of the Shopfox fence. Then the Board Buddies can be moved fore and aft for the best fit for what you are cutting at the time. I mount mine just before the cut and just aft of my riving knife so that it does not interfere with making very then cuts (otherwise it can get in the way of the blade).

Get better! FYI, I used my hot tub to help dissipate my bruising when I fell off a 20ft ladder last year (lower right side of back). Not counting broken bones, the hot tub rick really helped me very quickly.


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

I'm a 6' southpaw that long ago learned to adapt to a right handed world. Which hand were you using for your push block? How wide was the board?

If you were standing to the right of the blade and pushing with your left hand close to the fence, you may have "steered" the board away from the fence and caused the kickback.

I'm most comfortable with the fence to the right of the blade while I standi to the left and use my right hand to push the board. I usually use my left hand to hold the board against the fence. I also push as close to the cut line as I can. Another good practice is to use a featherboard to hold the board tightly to the fence so your pushing doesn't steer the board away from a straight line.


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## DCarrier (Nov 23, 2011)

Sawkerf,
I was using my left hand and standing slightly right of center. A close inspection of the projectile indicates your diagnosis is spot on. It looks as though I pushed the board away from the fence. This was so late in the cut a feather board would not have helped, I am assume a splitter would have prevented my error.


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## AlbertaJim (Oct 1, 2011)

I know it can be a pain, but I use my OEM Craftsman blade guard as much as possible. It has the anit kickback pawls. My contractor saw is about 30-40 years old and have had minimal kickback with it. Get a riving knife or a blade guard as soon as possible, again your life may depend on it, but I pray not.
-Jim


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

A splitter or riving knife might have helped, but pushing with your left hand probably had you in an awkward position that caused you to "steer" the board away from the fence.

I suggest that you teach yourself to push with your right hand while using your left hand (or a featherboard) to keep the piece against the fence.

A couple of years ago, I helped my right handed daughter and left handed son in law make a cabinet. Since neither of them had ever used a table saw, I lowered the blade, set the fence, and had them make several dry runs with the power off while they learned to keep the board against the fence and maintain steady push pressure while shifting their foot positions as the board moved thru the saw.. After several practice runs, they were ripping boards like they had done it all of their lives.


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

Welcome to LJs DCarrier, sorry to hear about your table saw accident.

The use of a feather-board, push sticks, ZCI and having a riving knife are all good advice. I'm also a southpaw and like Sawkerf I stand to the right of the blade with the fence to the right side of the blade pushing the wood with my right hand while my left hand is ether holding pressure to the fence or holding the push stick. I use a scrap piece of wood for a push stick. Because pushing it through the blade clears both sides of the spinning sawblade of material that can come flying back at you. I have had the material left of the blade come shooting back at me but not since I began pushing all of it clear of the blade.

I too use a table saw without a riving knife. My saw is between 45/50 years old. To overcome this I sometimes have to stop a rip cut and insert a small wedge into the cut behind the sawblade to keep the blade from being pinched by the wood passing over the blade. I don't like stopping mid cut like that but you already know the alternative.

Probably the most important lesson you will have learned is the importance of paying *100%* attention to what you are doing when using power tools. I know we all become complacent from time to time but that's when the injuries occur.

Another 2¢ DCarrier. I like using a clear full face shield that flips up like my welding hood when using the table saw, routers, weed-eaters, anything that is throwing lots of debris around. If you wear eyeglasses, the face shield is the way to go.


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## DCarrier (Nov 23, 2011)

Thanks to all for the great tips and advice. This is a great forum. I found a diagram for a splitter and I'm in the process of frabricating one. I will not use the saw again until it's installed! Also I will practice ripping lumber with my right hand. I look forward to many more years of learning and eliminating stupid mistakes will help me accomplish that goal. I've just started my first true 'furniture' project. I designed it myself on sketchup. It's a combination cherry - sasafras chest. It's my first set of drawers. I made them from resawn pin-oak and finger-jointer them. The front, legs, and drawer slides are cherry. The back and sides are slatted sasafras.

Let me know what you think.


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## YanktonSD (Jun 21, 2011)

This might be an option that would help you prevent this from happening again. The BORK.
http://theborkstore.com/main.sc;jsessionid=0B7E2A5702BCAB3EF46BFF4A4BC34EFB.qscstrfrnt03


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Hi DC
Welcome to Ljs Nice looking chest very good job. I agree with the above as a lefty we always have at adapt to the a right handed world. I always use a push stick with my right hand and stand to the left of the blade.When not using feathers boards I will have an additional stick in my left hand to push the material towards the fence as I'm using my push stick with my right hand. Along with all the good suggestions above most importantly stay out of the path of any kick back when ripping. I hope you recover quickly from your injury.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I'm a lefty and I stand just like Dallas said… to the right of the blade, pushing with my left hand. I occasionally alter this depending on the cut and the width of the board, but 99% of the time this stance works just fine for me. I stand far enough to the right that a board coming backwards from the blade will not hit me.

Skimming through the responses, I did not see anyone address what I consider to be a major issue here. You asked about positioning your push stick, and stated that you put it about a foot from the leading edge, and that you often feel overextended. The type of push stick you described should be placed all the way at the rear of the board. In fact, many of them have a lip at the back which hooks over the rear of the board to help you push it through the blade.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I was taught to always stand left of the blade. You have 2 of most organs but only one heart is what they told me. The liver can regrow itself I am told. I stand to the left and use a push stick or maybe 2 stick if I feel more comfortable. I was taught that push stick are required when the board is less than 4 inches wide ( the part between the blade and the fence) *OR* if you feel more comfortable using one. I seldom feel that I have as good of control with the stick but I use them all the time if the board is narrow and less than 4 inches. That was ingrained into my thinking. I guess I don't usually feel more comfortable with the stick. Was the blade sharp? A dull blade will tend to pick up the front of the board instead of cutting as it should. If it picks up the board then the board is on top of the blade and the saw will take over.


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## glassyeyes (Apr 14, 2009)

I'm left-handed, 5'10" on good days, and short-armed; I often feel a bit over-extended. I usually cut narrower stock with the fence to the left of the blade; andI usually stand on the left to keep myself out of the line of fire. I'm making a "traveler" to ride the fence for the really narrow stuff, too.


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## DCarrier (Nov 23, 2011)

Charlie,
I have been cutting as you described - standing to the right of the blade and pushing with my left hand. I believe this was my downfall. I have looked at the board and what happen i believe is that i pushed the board into the blade and away from the fence. The inital cut into the board starts about 2 inched back from the trailing edge and travels back up the board for at least 14 inches. At he point where it caught the blade you can see the perfect indentions of the carbide teeth. Since this is my first saw and being a lefty, I was intimidated to stand to the left of the blade. After all the comments here i believe it is a safer stance. Also as you are the first to point out I was using the push device wrongly. When you stand to the right of the blade its hard to control the inital contact of the board with the fence and my push device had a rubber foot so i was simply placing it near the starting point much like a push block on a jointer. I will retrain myself in the coming days. This was a very close call - I feel a trip the the doc coming tomorrow. The pain has not lessened in the 10 hours since it happened.


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## DCarrier (Nov 23, 2011)

Grandpa,
The blade is a good sharp 50 tooth. I truly belive I pushed the board away from the fence and into the blade.


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## DCarrier (Nov 23, 2011)

Glassyeyes,

To cut thin strips I use a magnetic stop block with a bearing (homemade) below and to the left of the blade. I reposistion the fence to push the stock against the stop each time.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

Well, ...... There's your problem! Your 50 tooth blade is either a cross cut blade or a combination blade. It's not really meant to make long rips. Combination blades work, but they are a compromise between ripping and cross cut and do neither extremely well. (Aluminum hat is in place, Nomex suit is on, Let the flames begin)!

Try a good 24 tooth blade and you'll find a world of difference.


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

In 40 years, my Father in Law had only ever experienced kickback on a handful of occasions, then, like waiting for a bus, three came along at once. Fired pieces of ash through the window twice, third one bounced off the piece of hardboard he had covering up the broken pane. Lucky he was standing to the left. I think the rip fence had taken a knock and was tapering into the back of the blade. The riving knife wasn't on either.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Obviously there are different schools of thought on where to stand. I don't think there is necessarily only one right way to do it. I think the most important thing is awareness of what you are doing, and an understanding of what pushing in various ways will do. Although I prefer to stand to the right of the blade, I am always very conscious of maintaining pressure against the fence. (I also use a featherboard whenever possible.

I also make a point to think the cut all the way through. By that, I mean that I not only think about where my hands and body will be at the start of the cut, but where they will be at the end. If I don't feel like I will be comfortable and in control throughout the cut, I will look for another way to do it.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

I'm a lefthanded as well, but I stand to the left of the blade, and use my left hand to support and clear the cutoffs away while pushing with my right against the fence with a push stick. the left cutoff side is the one that is left free and I feel more comfortable handling that with my left hand.

I use a push stick, and so it is always positioned at the rear of the part being cut (has a little step on it that catches on the back of the part) and so I am never over extending myself over anything.

and I do use a riving knife - you should at least get a splitter (your saw might not support a riving knife based on the model number) to avoid kickback as much as possible, and learn the reason for a kickback so that your control of the boards will prevent it to begin with (proper operation)

good luck, and quick recovery -and welcome to LJ.


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## DCarrier (Nov 23, 2011)

Charlie,
I could not agree with you more and if you are comfortable on the right of the blade to me it seems more of the safe side for a lefty. My problem is that I tend to push away from the fence and into the blade, or at least thats my diagnosis at this time. As has been diagnosed by the great members of this forum I was 'eat-up' with bad habits and plain ignorance. I'm counting this one as my one and only freebie! I ordered a zero-clearance insert with integrated splitter. I also ordered a new featherboard and a leather apron. I'm tempted by the board buddies, but being unemployed I have to control cost.

Thanks again really for sharing your experience and I look foward to many more conversastions.

Don Carrier 
Bristol, TN


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

I really feel for you. I had my first and only kickback accident about a year ago. Fortunately, the board did not hit me but it knocked one helluva dent in the side of a cabinet that was about 7 feet behind me so I could see the kind of damage that it might have done had it hit me. I hope that you get well soon, *Don*.


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

Charlie -
Comfort is the name of the game when running any tool. That's why I had my daughter and SIL practice making rips before we ever turned on the saw. They were surprised at how important footwork is when pushing a board thru a saw and keeping it against the fence.


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

I learned the hard way too Don. I had a kickback several years ago that almost knocked me off my feet. I got hit right in the chest and didnt know where I was for a few minutes.

Lots of good advise from those already. If you can put a riving knife on the saw, or at least a splitter this will help a lot. The saw has to have the right fittings for a riving knife, but older saws have them too. My saw is 15 years old and it had the fitting…I was just stupid and not using it. Someone also mentioned a zero clearance plate with a wooden tab behind the blade which works good too. I have attached a shop that custom makes riving knives and splitters so maybe they can help.

http://www.leestyron.com/sharksplitter.php


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

I am not a lefty so this is a little difficult for me to imagine cutting from the right side of the blade.

However, I did suffer some injury from a kickback early on, so I have a healthy respect for what the machine can do.

Regardless of which side you stand on, it should be expected that kickbacks CAN and DO occur and COULD occur ANYTIME we use the machine-even if we have all precautions and safety measures in place.

Wherever you stand, it should NOT be in the direct path of a potential kickback and you should have a comfortable stance through the entire process of the cut. Whatever adjustments a lefty would make in this case should still satisfy those two criteria, I feel.

I'd rather replace a window a dozen times than injure my internal organs or die.

I'm very sorry you were injured and hope you have a speedy recovery. I'd be worried there could be internal injuries you might not even be aware of. God Bless.


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## DCarrier (Nov 23, 2011)

DS251,

Thanks for the advice. I am still recovering but feeling much better. Internally I did have some damaged but it's healing. I have a couple of golf ball size lumps the doctor is keeping and eye on he believes they are hematomas but there is a possibility of lymph damage. Time will tell. I know a bunch of manly woodworkers don't want to here all about my injuries, but if I inspire 1 person to slow down and avoid this situation I've accomplished my goal.
I have installed a splitter and returned to the saw. I cut much slower now and I've switched sides, I now stand to the left of the blade. Still feels unnatural, but I'm retraining my brain.


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## jmos (Nov 30, 2011)

Welcome Don, sorry to hear about your mishap. I'm also a 6' lefty, I tend to stand to the right, by the fence. I try not to reach over the blade if I can help it. I try to always have both hands on the piece I'm cutting. I like using a push pad like those for a jointer, and always keep pulling toward me, and the fence, while I feed it forward. The only real problem I find with this is that the switch for my saw is on the left side, so I have to kick the paddle to kill the saw.

I would agree that you need to get a splitter. I have the MJ, and it works pretty well, although I found it a bit fussy to set up. I use it on occasion but have mostly gone back to the factory splitter/guard combo to keep the blade covered as much as possible.

http://www.leestyron.com/grizzly.php Sharkguard might work on your saw, they list your model number, so it might be worth a look.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

cr1, That is a GREAT reference that I was unaware of. This should be a "must read" for anyone just starting out with a tablesaw (or for anyone interested in minimizing injuries). I always use a long push shoe rather than a push stick.


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