# what hand planes should everyone have and which ones do you have



## jm540 (Jan 14, 2009)

I have stanley buckbros craftsmen
no 6 c bench jack
9
91/2
55
I dont know the numbers on the buck or the craftsmen but I'll get u'm

I want a big jointer, a router, a shoulder, a rabit, and a high angle scraper type?
(my 55 is supposed to do the middle 2 I just haven't found the office max ez button on it yet. I am sure it is there that thing has every other knob,screw and lever ever invented)

I think everyone should have a no 9 1/2 the handiest critter you can stick in your pocket.


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## kiwi1969 (Dec 22, 2008)

I have a new stanley #5 and#3, only the#5 is imported here now. A Rolson rabbett plane which is a copy of a record I think. An new english made stanley block plane. I,m currently making my own plough and "old womans tooth" router based on some plans from the 1920,s. No jointers available here but maybe I can get something in chinatown .
Anant doesn,t import here so maybe that could be a business oportunity for me, they make a copy of the 45 but don,t know much about it. My plan is to make a full compliment of planes myself and use the manufactured ones as sinkers on some fishing line, but they will do the job for now.


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

Here are the ones I use.

A Number 4



A Number 5



A Number 7



A 9 1/2



A Sergent block plane



and a 78.

Plus these wooden planes that I only look at


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## Moai (Feb 9, 2009)

The selection of planes depends the type of work the person do. 
The more planes I have,the more planes I want…
My Arsenal is:
Veritas Bevel Up Jointer
Veritas Scrub Plane
Record "Stay-Set" No.5 Jack
Record "Stay-Set" No.4 Smoother
Record "Stay-Set" No.3 Smoother
Veritas Low Angle Block Plane
Stanley Low Angle Block Plane

I want some day to build my own planes, Infill type planes, that's my dream.


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## Moai (Feb 9, 2009)

S-W-E-E-T!!!


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

Hah!

Show off!


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## Moai (Feb 9, 2009)

LOL


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## jm540 (Jan 14, 2009)

Doubthead must have a real job I really want a rabit/shoulder whats the best modles not versal or nielson or barret for free+ any suggestions

as for the 55 I think I am close to finding the easy botton after getting it three weeks a go I have pulled it out twice looked at it turned knobs (insert chimp scratching head here) and read reread and reread the first 3 pages of the manual until I comprehend them now I just have to find the knurled nut marked a, the screws marked c,f,d, the right fence adjustment, the cam stock support, tha aux fence, the unnecisarry stop, excess over lever, the it just looked shiney but take it off thing and I can cut something. but there are no labels.

OHHHHHHHHH. I have to pick one of 55 cutters. I got it now just reajuust the spincter oskate to colaborate with the p36 space modulator and you can test cut the board to check the quadrant of the flux copasitor. It then opens up and there is a box with a 3hp router and 300 bits. then it will work


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I've owned a few shoulder planes. I just have the big Record now. L-N
copied it and I think the copy is a better plane. With shoulder planes
it's about weight - the heavier planes can take cleaner cuts without chatter.

You can trim shoulders with any rabbet plane - a no. 78 will do - but you
would have to be more skillful to get very good results without having the
right tool for the job, a real shoulder plane.

These days I have about a dozen planes I think, down from more than 
30 when I was more active as a furniture maker and plane afficionado.

I do most work with a no. 4 and a no. 5. I have a few of each, set up
for different types of work generally. Final smoothing, end grain and fitting
parts I usually use a L-N bronze no.4.

I seldom use a block plane. I like more mass.

I have a wooden 26" long jointer I made myself. Works good but the
sole needs tuning every couple of years or so.


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## Moai (Feb 9, 2009)

There is an interesting article by Garrett Hack at a special issue of Fine Woodworking magazine, "Hand Tool Skiils": "8 Handplanes You can't live withouth", this is his list:
1.Bench Plane: Bedrock # 604 shown
2.Low Angle Block Plane: Lie NIelsen LA Block Plane shown
3.Jointer: Bedrock No.607 shown
4.Shoulder Plane: an old Stanley No.93 shown
5.Smoothing Plane: Lie Nielsen 41/2 shown
6.Spokeshave: Stanley 53 shown
7.A second Block plane: Lie Nielsen Apron Plane shown
8.Small Router Plane: An Old Stanley No.271 Shown.


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## jm540 (Jan 14, 2009)

loren if you need to thin back anymore I'll send you my address


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## Julian (Sep 30, 2008)

My collection is small, but get alot of use.
1. cheapy buck bros low angle block plane
2. #4 Victor 
3. #78 Stanley Sweetheart rabbet plane
4. 30's era #7 Stanley

The #7, my newest plane, I just refurbished, and made new handles for.


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## Bureaucrat (May 26, 2008)

I have a Stanley low angle block plane and a Dunlop #5. I of course want everything else.


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## jm540 (Jan 14, 2009)

those handles are great what are they


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## cylis007 (Nov 25, 2008)

I just began my collection(addiction). I have "collected" Stanleys #4,5,6,7, 60 1/2, and 93. If I wasn't doing my work bench with just hand tools, I wouldn't have bought the #6. I would have put off buying a #7 for a little while, also. I must add that I bought these used and have spent hours refurbing each one. Eventhough it's a great learning experience, I will be shopping the L-N and Veritas lines in the future.


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

Last year I started with a new Clifton #5 Jack Plane, and then added an Anant Kamal #4. I just finished flattening the soles and sharpening the blades on a new Stanley 60 1/2 low angle block plane, and vintage #4 and #5 Stanley/Bailey planes that I had recently found at an Antique store.

When I get back up to the Upper Peninsula, I have a Stanley/Bailey #6 fore plane, and a #4 Stanley/Bailey smoothing plane that have been waiting patiently all winter to be re-furbed.

I'm looking for a #7 jointer plane. However I don't intend to be a collector. These are tools that are going to be put to work.


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## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

Geez, where to begin…

Okay, I use two #102 block planes, a Stanley and a L-N, a #40 scrub, #'s 3, 4-1/2C, 5, 605C and a 7. They are all type 11s except for the 605, it's a type 6. Now, for the ones I want to tune up are a type 11 #4C and type 3 #s 603C, 604-1/2C, 605C, 606C, 607C and 608C. Someday I'll get around to tuning them up.

If you don't know your Stanley types then you just don't know how good Stanleys have been. The type 3s are from around the turn of the *LAST *century while the type 11s are ten to twenty years younger.

I've also have a number of transitional Stanleys that are in rebuildable shape but I'll save them for retirement. HA!

Always,
J.C.

P.S. My wife thinks I have a hoarding problem and just because I own over 75 at last count… or was it 85…


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## willmego (Mar 27, 2008)

Stanley #5 and #7 from estate sale of a family friend that died (damn vultures put his wife in a home, sold all his stuff to rabid evil people who literally RAN across his lawn to fight their way in the door…I managed to get in the house and get his planes…$25 each. I can remember him every shaving they take.

Stanley #78 off ebay…under $20.

The rest I plan on making myself….however, I more and more think about finding a #4 smoother instead of making it.


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## olfrt (Jul 27, 2008)

I inhereted planes from both my father and my father-in law. I currently have and use: aStanley/Bailey #5c circa WWl, 
a WWll vintage #5 Stanley,
a pre-WWll high knobed Stanley #4,
aStanley 220 with a "Stanley Rule and Level Co." stamped iron,
and
a nice Stanley #1 "Sweetheart" circa 1925.

I bought two rabbetting planes at fleamarkets;one is a Montgomery Wards plane without any depth stop, and the other aCraftsman.


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

*This is my plane cabinet.* The bottom shelf is the currently usable planes, and the next shelf up contains some that either need to be restored, or purely collectibles (like the brightly colored vintage "student" planes).










*From left to right:*

 Modern (cheap) Stanley that I use for utility purposes like door jams or construction
 Millers Falls No 56B (Favorite block plane)
 Record No 077 rabbet/bullnose (Other favorite plane)
 Stanley Bullnose plane with SweetHeart blade
 Little Stanley "finger" plane (as I call it) with SweetHeart blade










*From front to back:*

 Stanley No. 4 with SweetHeart blade
 Stanley Bailey No. 5
 Stanley Bailey No. 6










I've been writing about my hand tools in THIS BLOG lately.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

You can see mine in my blog. Welcome to the slippery slope.

http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/WayneC/blog/578


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## woodbloke (Jan 22, 2009)

I've got a number that have been 'aquired' over the years:
28" wooden try, greenheart sole ('shop made)
17" Norris A1 panel plane
Record Calvert-Stevens smoother
Maple and rosewood convex sole shaping plane ('shop made)
Genuine Krenov smoother…made by the man!!
LN No9 Iron Mitre 
Emmerich pear body/lignum soled smoother
Rosewood high angle smoother (Tiawan) 
Cuban mahogany/rosewood soled smoother ('shop made)
Record No4 smoother…extreme fettele and refurbishment
LV BU smoother
LV LA jack
LV LA try
LN 60.5 block
LV DX60 block
LV NX60 block
Stanley 271 small router 
LN shoulder plane, big one
Record Compass plane
Wooden jack plane, 50mm cutter


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## steiner (Mar 24, 2009)

Total newbie to planes and everything else. I tried a few LV's at a Woodworker's show here last weekend, and I had so much fun. It was amazing to peel off such miniscule sheets of wood fiber and leave such a smooth surface. The best part of the whole show was spending an hour with William Ng on hand planes. Only a handful of people were there with me, so it was almost one on one for this newbie. That man is incredible. Really demystified a lot for me regarding planing. It would be great to go to one of his classes. His recommendation to me for a first plane was the LV low angle Jack plane. Very versatile. I may re-prioritize and get the hand plane before I get planer/jointer machines.

I really liked the sound of his method of finishing, too. Hand plane > Card Scraper > 320 hand sanding with the grain to avoid circles in the furniture when the light hits it just right > burnish with soft cloth > finish. Creates very little dust. I'm going to make furniture someday. Just like my great great grandfather!


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

As a bare minimum, I think every wood mauler should have at least a block plane, and a preferably a #4 along with it. I accumulate planes like my wife hoards shoes, so I have lots of sizes, but if I had to thin the hurd to the essential few, I do most of my damage with a block plane, #3 or 4, and a #5-1/2. For big surfaces the #7 sure comes in handy too. Among a few oddballs, I have a Bedrock 605 type 6, Bailey 5-1/4 Sweetheart type 13, Stanley 220, Millers Falls 8,9,11,14, and 18, and Record 09-1/2, 03, two 04s, 04-1/2, 05, 05-1/2, 6, and 7. I'm currently looking to snag a Record 60-1/2 block. I tend to go for the Record and Millers Falls planes over the Stanleys, but it's probably more because of the colors than any performance advantages! (LOL…) (Like anything else, the cutter and setup really determine the end performance)


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## Moai (Feb 9, 2009)

I want to shot the same pic with all my tanks and rockets! it's comming!


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## Moai (Feb 9, 2009)

My set of handplanes…
Record 076 Bullnose
Cheap Stanley Contractor grade Block Plane
Stanley No.72 Chamfer Plane
Lie NIelsen Scraper Plane
Stanley No.3
Record "SS" no.03
Record "SS" No.04
Stanley No.4 1/2
Stanley No.10 Rabbet Plane
Record "SS" No.05
Stanley No.7
Veritas Bevel Up Jointer Plane.


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## lwoodt (Dec 22, 2008)

hey MOAI.if you ever want to sell your Stanley No.72,let me know.


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## Rabbet (Oct 19, 2009)

60 1/2 block, #4, Veritas medium shoulder plane, #12, and if you can afford it a LN #164. Also don't under estimate the power of a card scraper. Ebay is the way to go.
-Rabbet


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Stanley #3 (Vintage 1894-1898)
Stanley #4 (Post WWII)
Stanley #5 (Vintage 1916)
Stanley #5 (Post WWII)
Stanley #7 (Vintage 1920's)
Stanley 12-920 Block Plane
Stanley #92 Shoulder Plane
Craftsman Filister Plane (Vintage)

The #3, #5, and #7 planes have all been outfitted with Hock blades and chip breakers, the others are using original blades and chip breakers.

The only ones I bought new were the block plane and the shoulder plane. One of the #5's I inherited from my Dad. The others all came from eBay or garage sales.

Of all of them, the one I like the least is the block plane, so I am considering a Lie-Nielsen to replace it.

The one I like the most is the #3.


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## walshy67 (Jan 17, 2011)

i have a record (calvert stevens)CS 88 what a quality smoothing plane. but i live in sheffield uk were they were made
and bought it in 1989 still very good.


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

I have

Stanley #3
Stanley #4 
Stanley #4C
Stanley #5×2
Stanley #7
Stanley #48 Tonguing and Grooving plane
Stanley #75 Bull nose
Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane 
Stanley #103 Block Plane
Stanley #220 Block plane

Shelton #14 Jack plane
Trustworthy plane (Same size as Stanley #3)
Craftsman #4
Craftsman #4 1/2

I have about 8 more that were either broken or no name planes that I use for parts. All of my planes were bought used and most of them have been completely restored. I have spent a lot of time but they all serve me well.


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## KnifeL (Apr 27, 2010)

Being a second generation, too many planes to list. I would say the ideal starter set would be a number 3 (Old Stanley is the best choice for the money… but given some time most brands will not rattle…) and a block plane, I prefer a 1 3/4" bladed one, any will do similarly. If you're planning on jointing more then about two feet, move it up to (either) a number 4, 5 or 5 1/2. If you're building 10 foot tables, feel free to buy and store a number 6, 7 or 8. A 4 1/2 or 604 1/4 let alone the stuffed English planes are not a must, but if you feel you'll be turing a lot of your boards, this will save you a lot of pain pressing down on the board. A rabbit plane is a must, if you haven't purchased one of the 30+ types out there, I suggest getting one (or both if you have the money) of the Veritas angled rabbit plane with a fence. It won't be as thin a slot as your Stanley 90, but it'll make amazingly clean cuts on your tenons… which is why most of us own a rabbit anyway. If you need a reasonable price, grab a Stanley 78 for $10 anywhere old tools are sold, it'll work great. If you're looking at getting smaller dados then say a 90 can handle, I would suggest the Veritas detail rabbits… if you're not likely to, then their is no other purpose to get that tool.
If you're buying new, and not used, then the skewed blade has become extremely popular on modern models. I do suggest this, it will cut cleaner and faster. I would only rate it about twice as good… look at fine furniture from the 1800's, you'll notice they're all hacks, and clearly couldn't make due with their inferior tools. Oh, and the old wood moulding planes are great once you learn to use them, I suggest finding one (In good shape) with a pleasing shape for edge work and learn to use it. Having fed my fair share of lumber through 45's and 55's, a wooden molding plane is much faster to setup and nearly as easy to use. (Minus some pauses for blade adjustment)

Thus-
Stanley #3, 1 3/4" Blade Block plane, a Rabbit, and a pleasing molding plane. Any or all can be wood, metal, or transitional. All will build equally well as wood expands and contracts well beyond the .0001" tolerances expected from today's tools.


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## kent_michaels (Jan 12, 2011)

I just recently started using handplanes. I currently have a Stanley Handyman jack plane, a Stanley no 4, a Stanley 8C, and a no 33 from harbor freight…before everyone has a heart attack about the harbor freight plane, I have to say for 10 bucks this thing is a steal and works great. Actually it worked well right out of the box and with the blade sharpened cuts as good if not better than any of the other planes I have. I'm looking to find a good 60 1/2 now.


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## wb8nbs (Jan 11, 2011)

I have found that if you leave a couple of hand planes alone in a drawer for a few weeks, they will reproduce by themselves. In a year you will find at least a half dozen in that drawer and wonder what happened.


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

wb8nbs..
Now I know what happened to Canadianchips !..
Just like coathangers eh !


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Love the family pics on this old thread!


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## cjwillie (Sep 6, 2011)

Here are my bench planes. I'll have to get some shots of the blockplanes and other specialty planes.


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## cjwillie (Sep 6, 2011)

Here's my bench planes. I'll have to get some shots of the block planes and other specialty planes.


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## JGM0658 (Aug 16, 2011)

I have found that if you leave a couple of hand planes alone in a drawer for a few weeks, they will reproduce by themselves. In a year you will find at least a half dozen in that drawer and wonder what happened.

LOL…Yeah, I started with a cheapo stanley made in in Mexico for about $30….somehow it reproduced into way more planes of all different kinds and prices. Yep, hand planes can be a money sucking black hole, but men, when you need them they can make the difference between a great job and a mediocre one.


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