# pre stain conditioner for plywood



## jtlighting (May 17, 2010)

hey all im almost ready to finish "the indestructable" dresser for the "human wrecking ball" and i have read somewhere that before i stain the plywood i should use a pre stain conditioner so my 2 questions would be #1 is this a good idea ? #2 how to i apply this is it like applying a stain? oh i almost forgot should i sand after application of this conditioner before staining or should i just stain over it ? any help is appreciated as always or any alternative methods would help me out as well thanks


----------



## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

what is the wood and what is the preconditioner you have


----------



## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I've used Minwax water based pre-stain conditioner. Because it is water-based it tends to raise the grain a bit, so a light sanding is necessary.

If you are using just plain old pine plywood, the conditioner will help your stain be less blotchy, but if you are using a hardwood plywood, I don't think it's necessary.


----------



## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

With veener thickness of about three sheets of paper, modern plywood will not tolerate much sanding. For a pre-conditioner I like to use de-waxed shellac (Zinsser) mixed 50-50 with denatured alcohol.


----------



## tyskkvinna (Mar 23, 2010)

I tried using the conditioner extensively on plywood… and couldn't honestly see much, if any, difference for my effort.


----------



## drax0r (Jun 6, 2010)

I used the oil-based Minwax conditioner on all softwoods before I stain - including pine plywood.

I didn't run side-by-side comparison on pine, but the piece I finished looked really good. And it does definitely make a difference when comparing test stains on other pine.

To apply, I use either a lint-free rag or foam brush. I just basically wet the surface down. You want it to be moist, but you don't want want puddles. 

If you're using oil based stain, you'd want to use the oil based conditioner, so sanding between conditioner and stain isn't necessary.

After 5-10 minutes it's ready for the first coat of stain.

Make sure you don't wait too long before applying the first coat of stain after conditioning. I made the mistake of going to bed after conditioner once. When I applied stain the next day it looked horrible. Apparently after its been on the wood for a while (1-2 hours) it closes up the pores and stain won't stick.

Depending on the weather, I like to wait 10-20 minutes after application to begin applying stain.


This assumes you're using pine plywood - if you're using a hardwood ply (oak veneer, for example) you can probably just skip the conditioning all together.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Charle Neils Blotch control works great.


----------



## jtlighting (May 17, 2010)

sorry folks its just regular old fashion cabinet grade plywood from my local big box store thanks i dont want to paint it and im using a minwax oil base stain from brought from the same place thanks all oh i almost forgot the face frame /edging is 1/4 in poplar if this helps any


----------



## jtlighting (May 17, 2010)

oh by the way i havent brought the conditioner as of yet this was the original basis for my inquiry


----------



## Stevinmarin (Dec 24, 2009)

Whenever I stain pine, I apply Minwax Conditioner. But to tell you the truth, I still get blotching. I think a shellac sealer is a good way to go.


----------



## Beeguy (Jun 11, 2008)

Although I have had success with a wash coat of shellac, I have to agree with Jim, Charle Neils Blotch control works great.


----------



## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

Avoid the low end MinWhacks consumer products.

Try Zinsser SealCoat shellac. It's a 2 lb. cut of dewaxed shellac that is formulated to have a long shelf life.
For use as a sealer, dilute it 50/50 with denatured alcohol.


----------



## stnich (May 24, 2010)

I've used Minwax pre stain conditioner both oil based and water based depending on what I'm staining with. I also use a lot of poplar 1x material and birch plywood in making clocks that I sell on our website officeclocks.com. When I use poplar and birch plywood I use Zar stains that I find work very well. When I use oak on our clocks I use Minwax oil based wood finish that works well on oak. Proper surface preperation ie. sanding is equally as important as a conditioner. I'd like to try Charles Neils blotch control but haven't had a chance yet.


----------

