# Let's talk Rasps



## onoitsmatt (Mar 7, 2015)

I'm curious about rasps. I read a fair bit of the modern American hand tool thread that dealt with rasps. Special orders from Europe and Logier and others. I've been eyeballing the grammercy saw handle makers rasp but someone said they wear out fast.

Seems the good ones are very spendy and the bad ones aren't worth owning. So wondering about old rasps. I've heard good things about old Nicholsons and they can be had for $50+/- on eBay.

If I see old ones in the wild, what should I look for? Any brands to look for? I know hand stitched is better than machine. How can you tell if a rasp is worn out?

Let's talk rasps!

Because, you know… what could be more exciting?


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

You can get them resharpened. It's a chemical
etching process I think. You can buy the
compounds to do it yourself too, but sending
them out is not expensive.

I think Iwasaki files are a great bargain in
rasps. The cut fast and leave a nice surface.

I have a couple of Nicolson pattern-maker's
hand-stitched rasps but I use the Iwasaki 
files more often.

If the tips of the rasp teeth are shiny in a used
rasp that's a bad sign I think. It means
they've been worn smooth by use or banging
against other tools in a drawer.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I think they use acid to take a layer of metal off. Technically sharpening them.

I have some of the corradi. good stuff.

Really hard to find a good used rasp in the wild. I've only found 2 and luckily they were serviceable. I asked a tool dealer about acquiring some and he told me they're disposable like files nowadays but not as numerous and a lot easier to dull the teeth.


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## Mr_Pink (May 20, 2017)

I have one of the plastic-handled, hand-stitched Lee Valley rasps. I can't compare it to any other rasp, but I'm happy with the purchase.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I have a fine Narex from amazon for 20-30$ that works well but it's more of a medium cut really. Still. It does it's job.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I have a few of the Auriou rasps, but to be honest I bought one of these Shinto rasps use it more often. I don't worry about ruining it since it's so inexpensive. Here's the Schwarz take on which ones you need , tho.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

After a good cleaning I sharpen rasps found in the wild by soaking them in Vinegar (a mild acid) for 24 hours (or more). I have found 3 good ones so far. One was a farriers rasp but it still works on wood. All I have foud have been rough cut.


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

I've found some good vintage rasps, but they've usually been left without cleaning them so the teeth are all clogged up with shavings and usually with a little oil mixed in. I'm going to try soaking in degreaser to see if that helps. I'd love something to dissolve the wood. Picking the clogs out with a dentist type pick works, but is really tedious.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

Try the following. Using either bamboo or a bit of smashed cooper pipe rub it across a section of the rasp teeth at the same angle that the teeth are in. the result will be a little comb that you can move to the next row of teeth. The section of teeth will also be cleaned. Still slow but less tedious then using a pick. Various stiff brushes and file cards can help too.

Searching I found this interesting advice.
I think I will try it.


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## onoitsmatt (Mar 7, 2015)

Thanks for all the great input so far. I'm thinking about getting the 3 Iwasaki file set from japanesewoodworker.com for $66.

Here

Anyone have this set? Opinions? I'm looking for something to use in addition to a spokeshave for shaping a guitar neck.

Thanks again!


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

Iwasaki files and rasps are 20% off from japanesewoodworker (woodcraft) too!


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

I'm tempted to try that stuff, Don.

I think I've tried the bamboo without too much luck, but maybe I need to give it another try before spending some cash on something else.


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## JADobson (Aug 14, 2012)

> I have one of the plastic-handled, hand-stitched Lee Valley rasps. I can t compare it to any other rasp, but I m happy with the purchase.
> 
> - Mr_Pink


I'm in the exact same situation. I really like the rasp but have nothing to compare it to. I had to make a new handle though. The plastic one is awful. Now it has a nice walnut handle with a copper ferrule. Looks a hundred times better. Works the same though.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

I've got one hand stitched rasp from Robert Larson (believe it is made by Tome Feteira in Portugal), several Iwasaki files and recently picked up an assortment of Corradi rasps, some of both the Gold series and their less expensive lines.

The hand stitched I've got is good for rough work and rapid stock removal, but too inconsistent on tooth height for fine work. Bang for the buck, the Iwasaki's are hard to beat, but the Corradi Golds I absolutely love and are going to be the route for me going forward. Fast enough stock removal with a much nicer finish. I've got both cuts (#6 & #10) of the 6in half round and a #8 cut 10in cabinet rasp. They're now showing an 8in on their website and I'll probably be ordering that one, as well as a 10in #10 and a #10 6in Hand (flat with one safe edge) in the near future. Prices are reasonable if you can spread the shipping across several tools, but will kill you if just buying one or two.

Someday I'd like to compare to an Auriou or Liogier, but cannot complain about the quality for the price and Corradi's customer service is excellent. I also ordered several files, including a couple less common ones that are only made to order. They walked me through the process and were good about progress updates. Once everything shipped, I had it two days later.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

I use a japanese saw rasp and a Nicholson 49
I think for shaping/sculpting I like the japanese rasp best. But it is the coarsest.








Skip the one with the funky knob handle.

Understand that the Nicholson is made in Brazil now, and is not as good as its USA made counterpart. Not because of materials, but i guess the stitching pattern isn't the same and not as sharp. But that if you get it chemically sharpened, it is ok.









i got a razor plane/microplane which looks like a cheese grater and the diameter of a cigar, but have not really put that to the test.


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## jmartel (Jul 6, 2012)

> Thanks for all the great input so far. I m thinking about getting the 3 Iwasaki file set from japanesewoodworker.com for $66.
> 
> Here
> 
> ...


You want at least one flat rasp as well. I like my Iwasaki ones. Don't go any coarser than fine or extra fine. They remove material very quickly. Extremely grabby at first so I'd practice on some scrap and take some of the bite off until you get the hang of it. Go with the grain on these as they are similar to planes rather than normal rasps. Depending on the shape of what you are doing you might want a curved rasp or two as well.

The saw maker's rasp works fine. No real complaints from me. Requires more sanding than the Iwasakis but it provides a different function that my Iwasakis don't.

The shinto saw rasp shown above is good for a lot of stock removal. But it is only for initial roughing. You need to use other rasps that are way smoother than that because the surface left behind is pretty bad.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

BTW Iwasaki files and rasps are 20% off from japanwoodworker.com ( aka Wood craft). I ordered the two floats.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

They were selling really nice sets in the Unplugged woodworkers group on Facebook a bit back. Kind of kicking myself for not getting a set. They were Italian rifflers and files.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

Yes I too learned about it to late.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

I have to admit I buy more tools than I use. Last year about this time, I just had to have some of those Iwasaki files, ordered from woodcraft. I suspect the 20% is an annual thing. They were backordered and finally arrived in July, I think. I played with them a little, but haven't really used them.

The Shinto saw rasps are great. Tremendous bang for the buck. You can get them sometimes for less than $20 on Amazon. (Search for "Saw file L" - presently less than $16 with free shipping). They have two sides with different teeth and work really well. Brilliant idea, but not new. I saw almost the same thing for sale on ebay apparently 40 years old and made in Germany.

I have one Narex round 12" coarse rasp. I like it too - and was thinking of buying one of the 3-piece sets from Tailor Toolworks on ebay. But since I don't really use them, I'm sticking with what I've got until I have a good reason (or an itch one day) to buy more.

I also have one microplane rasp as well. I thought it was pretty nifty when I bought it, but I think it's dull now with little use. I found it bulky to get in tight spots, but so is the Shinto.

And finally, the first rasp I bought was from the box store (HD, I think). It was the only woodworking rasp they had, so I bought it, because I needed one. Can't remember what brand. It got me by for that project, but is nowhere near as useful as any of these others.

-Paul


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

I seem to buy tools, and then eventually by some miracle I have just the tool I need. I don't know how it happens, but let us sing our praises to Hephaestus. LOL.


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## BlasterStumps (Mar 13, 2017)

I have had thoughts about that very thing. Although I rarely buy new, I pick up the odd used or old tool now and then at the restore or local pawn. Then it seems, strangely enough, that very soon afterwards, a project comes along where I need and can use that old tool. Same thing seems to happen when I have made a tool, like a marking gauge or, mallet, etc. I could go on about this but I think you know what I mean.
Mike


> I seem to buy tools, and then eventually by some miracle I have just the tool I need. I don t know how it happens, but let us sing our praises to Hephaestus. LOL.
> 
> - Combo Prof


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

I do know what you mean. A couple of years ago I made some parallel clamps to see if I could do it. Today I need to clamp tight a cabinet door so that I could true up the edge. The only clamp I had in the shop that would do it was the one I made. Although the moral maybe is that I need better clamps, it was fortuitous that I had just happened to have earlier made the tool I at that moment needed.


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