# What kind of blade to use on a tablesaw to cut 2x6x8 boards on the 6'' side to make 1x6x8?



## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

Hi everyone!

I have a lot of 2×6x8 foot long maple boards that i want to cut into 1×6x8 foot long board on the tablesaw. It's a Dewalt 7491RS, which i know isn't really meant for this. I don't mind it taking a while (days / weeks) to do, letting the machine cool off here and there, doing few boards at a time, as long as it works. I know i'll have to do multiple passes too, obviously, if i don't want the tablesaw to die on me.

What kind of blade should i be using for this? Local shop said 10'' 10-12 teeth rip blade, but i know absolutely nothing about blades for this project so i wanted to make sure first, as it's almost 90$ (the blade).

Please let me know, thank you!


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

you do know your not going to get 1inch out of it right ?
what are you making ?
do you have a band saw ? 
answer these will help us :<))


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

I would expect lots of burning. Resawing maple on a table saw is very unpredictable


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## RobHannon (Dec 12, 2016)

Probably will want a thin kerf blade due to the smaller saw, and even then many shallow passes. A glue line rip blade is probably going the be the best economical option, but you ware really using the wrong tool for the job. Like Tony said, you are not getting 2 1" slabs out of it. If there is cup or twist in the board, even 3/4 may be too optimistic. Bandsaw is the best choice for this.


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> you do know your not going to get 1inch out of it right ?
> what are you making ?
> do you have a band saw ?
> answer these will help us :<))
> ...


Oh most of these are about 2 1/4 so i did cut one 8 feet board and it gave me about 1 inch boards x2. 
It's for making a bedrom set, once jointed and planes should be about 3/4 to 7/8 (the boards are very straight, i got lucky). 
I have no bandsaw sadly. Which is why i am trying to make due with what i have.



> I would expect lots of burning. Resawing maple on a table saw is very unpredictable
> 
> - Aj2


The board i did didn't have any burning but it took 30 mins to do. Im guessing i didn't have the right blade for the task (regular dewalt blade that came with the saw).



> Probably will want a thin kerf blade due to the smaller saw, and even then many shallow passes. A glue line rip blade is probably going the be the best economical option, but you ware really using the wrong tool for the job. Like Tony said, you are not getting 2 1" slabs out of it. If there is cup or twist in the board, even 3/4 may be too optimistic. Bandsaw is the best choice for this.
> 
> - RobHannon


Yeah the boards are very straight and about 2 1/4 thick. The guy doing em really did a nice job. Even the finish isn't that rough, was impressed by his work. The board i did gave me 2×1 inch exactly once i was done.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

> Oh most of these are about 2 1/4 so i did cut one 8 feet board and it gave me about 1 inch boards x2.
> It s for making a bedrom set, once jointed and planes should be about 3/4 to 7/8 (the boards are very straight, i got lucky).
> I have no bandsaw sadly. Which is why i am trying to make due with what i have.
> 
> ...


look to me like you have answered your own question :<))


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> Oh most of these are about 2 1/4 so i did cut one 8 feet board and it gave me about 1 inch boards x2.
> It s for making a bedrom set, once jointed and planes should be about 3/4 to 7/8 (the boards are very straight, i got lucky).
> I have no bandsaw sadly. Which is why i am trying to make due with what i have.
> 
> ...


What do you mean? As im pretty sure i do not have the right blade, i was asking for suggestions on the right blade for the task.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

Oh most of these are about 2 1/4 so *I DID CUT ONE* 8 feet board and it gave me about 1 inch boards x2. 
It's for making a bedrom set, once jointed and planes should be about 3/4 to 7/8 (the boards are very straight, i got lucky).

*THE BOARD I DID DIDN'T HAVE ANY BURNING* but it took 30 mins to do. Im guessing i didn't have the right blade for the task (regular dewalt blade that came with the saw).


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> Oh most of these are about 2 1/4 so *I DID CUT ONE* 8 feet board and it gave me about 1 inch boards x2.
> It's for making a bedrom set, once jointed and planes should be about 3/4 to 7/8 (the boards are very straight, i got lucky).
> 
> *THE BOARD I DID DIDN T HAVE ANY BURNING* but it took 30 mins to do. Im guessing i didn't have the right blade for the task (regular dewalt blade that came with the saw).
> ...


Yes but 30 minutes a board doesn't make much sense honestly. I want to believe there is a faster way than 30 minutes per 8 foot board using the right blade. Was just curious to see what blade you guys would suggest. Mine isn't even a ripping one. Like what number of teeth, brand, thin kerf or not, ect… Thanks though.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Instead of a 10 tooth blade, get an 80 tooth and it will cut eight times as fast. Instead of 30 minutes, you will be able to cut them in just under 4.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

> Hi everyone!
> 
> I have a lot of 2×6x8 foot long maple boards that i want to cut into 1×6x8 foot long board on the tablesaw. It s a Dewalt 7491RS, which i know isn t really meant for this. *I DONT MIND IT TAKING A WHILE (DAYS / WEEKS TO DO*, letting the machine cool off here and there, doing few boards at a time, as long as it works. I know i ll have to do multiple passes too, obviously, if i don t want the tablesaw to die on me.
> 
> ...


I guess I misunderstood you sorry :<((


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> Instead of a 10 tooth blade, get an 80 tooth and it will cut eight times as fast. Instead of 30 minutes, you will be able to cut them in just under 4.
> 
> - Rich


*scratches head* 
What?


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> Hi everyone!
> 
> I have a lot of 2×6x8 foot long maple boards that i want to cut into 1×6x8 foot long board on the tablesaw. It s a Dewalt 7491RS, which i know isn t really meant for this. *I DONT MIND IT TAKING A WHILE (DAYS / WEEKS TO DO*, letting the machine cool off here and there, doing few boards at a time, as long as it works. I know i ll have to do multiple passes too, obviously, if i don t want the tablesaw to die on me.
> 
> ...


Oh i don't mind it being longer, but at 30 minutes per board i can only do one before stopping. Pretty much meaning it'll take months doing them all. Sorry my english isn't that great, probably my mistake there for the confusion.

Edit: Sorry for double post, not what i wanted to do.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Cost effective:









One of the best:


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://lumberjocks.com/knotscott/blog/12395

HTH


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## smitdog (Aug 20, 2012)

Get a thin kerf 24 tooth rip blade and do it in multiple passes raising the blade height on each pass. I'd start at 1 inch blade height and see if it bogs down or not. Flip the board end for end and make another pass. Raise the blade to 2 inches and go again, both sides. Then go full height for the final pass. Shouldn't take 30 minutes per board, more like 5 to 10 with a good rip blade.

Freud: https://www.amazon.com/D1024X-Diablo-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2V/ref=pdlpovtph469lpt2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3QX0V0KZHDDXS7CQ6ATH


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## stidrvr (Nov 20, 2008)

Jesus, So much bad information in the thread (Before waho6o9).

The shop is right, you need to use a Low Tooth count blade, these are designed for ripping boards. Since they aren't as common as crosscut blades, and are typically more of a "specialty" blade, they are going to be more expensive. Honestly, $90 is all that bad.

You mentioned that you're using a Dewalt Bench Top Style Table Saw. This is going to be your most limiting factor. The saw doesn't have nearly enough power to efficiently move the board through the saw. Yes it can be done, but because you're mentioning of wanting to lower the time it takes to run a board, the saw is the biggest time consumer.

Unfortunately, you need to find a thin kerf rip blade with as few as teeth possible. Amazon has a Freud Thin Kerf 24T blade for 38.99 that might be worth a shot.


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## RobHannon (Dec 12, 2016)

> Jesus, So much bad information in the thread.
> 
> The shop is right, you need to use a Low Tooth count blade, these are designed for ripping boards. Since they aren t are common as crosscut blades, and are typically more of a "specialty" blade, they are going to be more expensive. Honestly, $90 is all that bad.
> 
> ...


Aside from Rich's joke about getting more teeth will speed up the cut, pretty much all the replies say the same thing your post does. Thin kerf, low tooth count, contractor TS is not the best tool for the job. What is the bad information in the thread that is upsetting you?


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

> Jesus, So much bad information in the thread.
> 
> The shop is right, you need to use a Low Tooth count blade, these are designed for ripping boards. Since they aren t are common as crosscut blades, and are typically more of a "specialty" blade, they are going to be more expensive. Honestly, $90 is all that bad.
> 
> ...


*DITTO* ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
also how do you know my lord ? ? ?


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> Cost effective:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you wise one. Good infos there!



> Get a thin kerf 24 tooth rip blade and do it in multiple passes raising the blade height on each pass. I d start at 1 inch blade height and see if it bogs down or not. Flip the board end for end and make another pass. Raise the blade to 2 inches and go again, both sides. Then go full height for the final pass. Shouldn t take 30 minutes per board, more like 5 to 10 with a good rip blade.
> 
> Freud: https://www.amazon.com/D1024X-Diablo-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2V/ref=pdlpovtph469lpt2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3QX0V0KZHDDXS7CQ6ATH
> 
> - smitdog


The one the store told me to get was a 10 teeth blade but not thin kerf, you think that would work? Otherwise i'll order one of these freud thin kerf 24 teeth blade from amazon. Let's just hope it doesn't get too long to get here. With thin kerf i imagine i need to remove the riving knife? Will this still be safe to do without a riving knife considering it's 8 feet long?



> Jesus, So much bad information in the thread.
> 
> The shop is right, you need to use a Low Tooth count blade, these are designed for ripping boards. Since they aren t are common as crosscut blades, and are typically more of a "specialty" blade, they are going to be more expensive. Honestly, $90 is all that bad.
> 
> ...


Yes the tablesaw is only 2HP sadly. 10 teeth non thin kerf would still work or i should really go with thin kerf? Otherwise i'll just go with the one from amazon.

Thanks a lot everyone.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Removing the riving knife invites kickbacks and is not a good idea LordPM.


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## stidrvr (Nov 20, 2008)

> Jesus, So much bad information in the thread.
> 
> The shop is right, you need to use a Low Tooth count blade, these are designed for ripping boards. Since they aren t are common as crosscut blades, and are typically more of a "specialty" blade, they are going to be more expensive. Honestly, $90 is all that bad.
> 
> ...


The full kerf is what stresses the saw the most, its taking a larger bite. Stick with the thin kerf.


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> Removing the riving knife invites kickbacks and is not a good idea LordPM.
> 
> - waho6o9


Ok but isn't thin kerf thinnier than the riving knife? I do not know which is why i am asking.


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> Jesus, So much bad information in the thread.
> 
> The shop is right, you need to use a Low Tooth count blade, these are designed for ripping boards. Since they aren t are common as crosscut blades, and are typically more of a "specialty" blade, they are going to be more expensive. Honestly, $90 is all that bad.
> 
> ...


Ok but isn't thin kerf thinnier than the riving knife? I do not know which is why i am asking.


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## RobHannon (Dec 12, 2016)

Regular kerf will work, just slower feed rate because you are taking a wider bite. Resawing with a table saw, I would want a spliter or riving knife. Don't know on your saw, but many have thin kerf riving knives as an optional accessory. Safety is more important than speed.

Do you have any cabinet shops in the area or maybe a lumber yard that you can pay to do the resawing? May be a bit more money, but would save you a lot of time and potentially material waste.


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## stidrvr (Nov 20, 2008)

> Ok but isn't thin kerf thinnier than the riving knife? I do not know which is why i am asking.
> 
> - LordPM


Yes, youre correct.


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> Regular kerf will work, just slower feed rate because you are taking a wider bite. Resawing with a table saw, I would want a spliter or riving knife. Don t know on your saw, but many have thin kerf riving knives as an optional accessory. Safety is more important than speed.
> 
> Do you have any cabinet shops in the area or maybe a lumber yard that you can pay to do the resawing? May be a bit more money, but would save you a lot of time and potentially material waste.
> 
> - RobHannon


Very good question, i have no clue. What kind of $ per board you'd think we'd be talking about that'd be reasonable? Of course if it's not much it could be interesting to have someone do it.


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## jerkylips (May 13, 2011)

I see lots of issues with what you're trying to do. Holding a board vertically against the fence and not having it move at all over 8 feet is hard enough. Add in multiple passes per board, & you're pretty much guaranteed to mess some of them up.

10" table saw has a max cut depth of 3 1/4", so you're going to have to get through 1/2 of it, flip it, & start over. I hope your fence/blade are aligned perfectly or you're not going to have a smooth surface.

once you get one cut done, you're left with probably 1 1/16th width (2 1/4 minus the 1 inch, minus the kerf). If you want that last piece down to exactly 1 inch, you're going to have very little material to hold onto.

You don't have a band saw, but that's the tool for the job. I 'd suggest finding someone that has one & do it the right way.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

https://servicenet.dewalt.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/N376167,DWE7490.pdf

Pages 8 and 9 may be of use if it's the correct table saw that you have.


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> I see lots of issues with what you re trying to do. Holding a board vertically against the fence and not having it move at all over 8 feet is hard enough. Add in multiple passes per board, & you re pretty much guaranteed to mess some of them up.
> 
> 10" table saw has a max cut depth of 3 1/4", so you re going to have to get through 1/2 of it, flip it, & start over. I hope your fence/blade are aligned perfectly or you re not going to have a smooth surface.
> 
> ...


Oh the boards are jointed and i have a thickness planer so i was planing on reducing it to 3/4 afterwards with the thickness planer. The smooth surgace isn't necessary as long as it will go in the planer.

Yeah i don't know anyone with a big bandsaw that could do it. I'd have to ask around the town in woodworkers shop.



> https://servicenet.dewalt.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/N376167,DWE7490.pdf
> 
> Pages 8 and 9 may be of use if it s the correct table saw that you have.
> 
> - waho6o9


Yes thank you very much. Im gona try to see if that freud blade works with this riving knife. Manual states:
The riving knife provided with this saw is marked as follows (Fig. 27):
0.087" (2.2 mm) THICK RIVING KNIFE. ONLY USE FOR 10" (254 mm) Ø BLADE WITH
0.094" (2.4 mm) MIN. KERF WIDTH AND 0.067" (1.75 mm) MAX. BODY THICKNESS.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Very good!


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## smitdog (Aug 20, 2012)

I've never seen or used a rip blade with 10 teeth so no comment on that. The Freud blade I linked to has a kerf width of .098 so it will work fine with the riving knife on your saw. If you have a hardware store or big box store near you then you may be able to find a thin kerf rip blade locally that will work, just check the kerf width. I try to buy local whenever possible and encourage others to do the same! If you need a taller/sturdier fence add on you could make something like this:


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> I ve never seen or used a rip blade with 10 teeth so no comment on that. The Freud blade I linked to has a kerf width of .098 so it will work fine with the riving knife on your saw. If you have a hardware store or big box store near you then you may be able to find a thin kerf rip blade locally that will work, just check the kerf width. I try to buy local whenever possible and encourage others to do the same! If you need a taller/sturdier fence add on you could make something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That fence would be a Nice addition for sure ! Thé only one i see locally is the freud LU87R010 which is 0.94mm. Though i do not know if the thickness match they dont mention it.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Not sure why all the smart-ass answers but I quit reading them.

To answer the question, a 20T rip blade will be a good choice. Rip blades rip more efficiently using less power than general or combo blades. The fewer teeth, the easier on the saw. I've never seen a 10T. My opinion is that your saw is undersized and underpowered for this task but that is not what you asked.


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> Not sure why all the smart-ass answers but I quit reading them.
> 
> To answer the question, a 20T rip blade will be a good choice. Rip blades rip more efficiently using less power than general or combo blades. The fewer teeth, the easier on the saw. I ve never seen a 10T. My opinion is that your saw is undersized and underpowered for this task but that is not what you asked.
> 
> - Woodknack


Oh i totally agree with you its undersized for the task but sadly it is all i have. Just trying to work with what i have.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> Not sure why all the smart-ass answers but I quit reading them.
> 
> - Woodknack


There was only one smart-ass answer I saw and that was from me. I wrote that because this post smells awfully fishy, and it's only gotten fishier since then.

No burning but took 30 minutes to make two 8 foot passes to resaw one board? If you can cut at a rate of about 2 minutes per linear foot and not get burning in maple, I'd say your blade is doing just fine - if I believed any of it, that is.


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> Not sure why all the smart-ass answers but I quit reading them.
> 
> - Woodknack
> 
> ...


There was a lot more than two passes. Took about 16 of em. Im trying to understand why you say this is fishy? I have wood here that i would like to transform, tried it, failed (way too long considering the amount i have to do) and trying to figure out how i can help myself with what i have. No need to be hostile im only asking people with a ton more experience than me how they think it could be possible with the machine i got.


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## redlee (Apr 11, 2016)

You got the same answers here as you did elsewhere.
Same problem,different site, same answers.
The time spent getting the same answer from differnt sites,you could gone out and bought a blade and had it done.
Get the right blade,many options,get a bigger saw,get a bandsaw.


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## dschlic1 (Jan 3, 2013)

If you are located in the USA, your local Home Depot will have this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-24-Teeth-Ripping-Saw-Blade-D1024X/100070768


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> You got the same answers here as you did elsewhere.
> Same problem,different site, same answers.
> Get the right blade,many options,get a bigger saw,get a bandsaw.
> 
> - Richard Lee


Yes, a friend of mine who used this site quite a bit told me to ask here and see if someone did something similar in the past with insights on what i should be using. You are right the answers are similar except for the thin kerf. The other site seemed against it, here people seems to be leaning towards it.


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## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

You describe it as a smart ass answer. I describe it as a dumb ass answer.


> Not sure why all the smart-ass answers but I quit reading them.
> 
> - Woodknack
> 
> ...


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## wichman3 (Sep 12, 2016)

I have done this (or similar). I have a Craftsman 12 " 240V 3 hp TS. Go with what the local shop told you, i.e. full kerf 10 tooth dedicated rip blade. The full kerf blade will be stiffer for the depth of cut that you are using. The fewer teeth that the blade has will improve the waste removal from the cut, especially since the blade will not pierce the top of the boards. Consider making the higher auxiliary rip fence and add finger boards both top and bottom BEFORE the blade, none after.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

I'm trying to figure out how you plan on ripping 6" stock on edge with a 10" blade and get usable results. It can be done by flipping the board end to end after creating a kerf of more than half the depth of the stock. Then flip it and make the same cut from the other side. You need to keep the same edge against the fence after you turn the piece or you'll end up with a length of stock that has a different thickness at either end.

Being relatively thin stock already, you're end results will probably take a lot of cleanup and you'll end up with less than 1" stock. Maple will be especially problematic. It will more than likely burn no matter what tooth count blade you end up using. This is also a somewhat dangerous endeavor. If you have to ask how to do this, you probably aren't qualified to do these cuts safely. Buy some 4/4 stock and preserve your safety.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> You describe it as a smart ass answer. I describe it as a dumb ass answer.
> 
> - ArtMann


You still smarting off and not building anything, Art? Get your butt out in the shop and post a project for goodness sake. We might take you seriously then.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Buy a band saw.


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## Jeff28078 (Aug 27, 2009)

Take them back to your source and have them cut them in half. I assume they came off a band saw.

You said you have all the time in the world. So what's wrong with 30 minutes per board? And who cares if you get some burning if you're going to plane them? If you do get burning you'll have to clean the blade for time to time.


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> I have done this (or similar). I have a Craftsman 12 " 240V 3 hp TS. Go with what the local shop told you, i.e. full kerf 10 tooth dedicated rip blade. The full kerf blade will be stiffer for the depth of cut that you are using. The fewer teeth that the blade has will improve the waste removal from the cut, especially since the blade will not pierce the top of the boards. Consider making the higher auxiliary rip fence and add finger boards both top and bottom BEFORE the blade, none after.
> 
> - wichman3


 Ok! Mine is only a 110V 2HP dewalt 7491rs tough. I think this is why people were telling me to go thin kerf to help the machine with the cut. You think it could still handle full kerf 10 teeth through that material?



> I m trying to figure out how you plan on ripping 6" stock on edge with a 10" blade and get usable results. It can be done by flipping the board end to end after creating a kerf of more than half the depth of the stock. Then flip it and make the same cut from the other side. You need to keep the same edge against the fence after you turn the piece or you ll end up with a length of stock that has a different thickness at either end.
> 
> Being relatively thin stock already, you re end results will probably take a lot of cleanup and you ll end up with less than 1" stock. Maple will be especially problematic. It will more than likely burn no matter what tooth count blade you end up using. This is also a somewhat dangerous endeavor. If you have to ask how to do this, you probably aren t qualified to do these cuts safely. Buy some 4/4 stock and preserve your safety.
> 
> - builtinbkyn


I have an 8'' jointer, so the 2×6x8 will be jointed first, then cut on the table saw. The tablesaw side that will get cut doesn't really matter if it's usable as it is, it will go in the thickness planer afterwards. The boards are very straight already so i don't think there will be much to jointing/planing, so the loss in material should be minimal. The most part of the loss will come from the cut from the table saw. As stated earlier, the 2×6x8 are more like 2 1/4×6x8 so it ''should'' leave me with at least 3/4 boards afterwards, if not more. Well in theory anyways, if all goes well, which is far from certain… haha.

As far as how to do this how on a technical side i am fine, it was the right blade i wasn't sure of. It is not the first time i do something like this, but in hard maple it is a first. I've cut 4×4 pine into 2×2 and old 4×8 into 2×8 but anything goes through pine…. definatly not maple.



> Buy a band saw.
> 
> - dhazelton


Wish i had the budget for that, but the size of the bandsaw required to do this would cost a lot more than what i have for budget. Not to mention i definatly don't need a bandsaw often.



> Take them back to your source and have them cut them in half. I assume they came off a band saw.
> 
> You said you have all the time in the world. So what s wrong with 30 minutes per board? And who cares if you get some burning if you re going to plane them? If you do get burning you ll have to clean the blade for time to time.
> 
> - Jeff


I asked the guy but he said his machine would most likely break them and he didn't want to risk it. I've seen the machine he's using and it's true it's huge and most likely powerful i'd imagine. It wasn't a bandsaw, it looked like a huge circular saw of some kind.It's too bad he didn't want to do it because that would've certainly saved me a lot of time for sure! You are right about the cut time being fine since i can do this on a longer period of time. I just wanted an easier way especially for the saw, i didn't want to break it by overheating or something, i bought it 3 months ago.

Thanks for all the good advices guys!


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

LordJim,

Do not use a full kerf blade. The obvious choice is a THIN KERF 24 T ripping blade like the Freud pictured.

Everyone is talking about blades when we should be talking about the machine.

This is jobsite saw, guys.

LJ, burning up the motor with a task this large is a definite risk.

Personally, I'd be looking for someone with a bandsaw mill to resaw them.


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## LordPM (Aug 7, 2018)

> LordJim,
> 
> Do not use a full kerf blade. The obvious choice is a THIN KERF 24 T ripping blade like the Freud pictured.
> 
> ...


LordJim? Haha, i guess that still works. 
Alright thanks for the tip. I'll get the FK blade today and take my sweet time to make sure the saw doesn't break. 
What are you looking at when your looking for someone with a bandsaw big enough for this? Woodworkers shop? Or there is a name for this particular business?


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## dschlic1 (Jan 3, 2013)

I have a cheap Craftsman 12" bandsaw, on which I have resawn 2×8 yellow pine.


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## wichman3 (Sep 12, 2016)

LordPM,
Yes, I think your jobsite saw can handle a full kerf rip blade. But since everyone else thinks thin kerf is the way to go, I'll add one suggestion; use the shortest heaviest extension cord you can get. You will stress the motor more and make burnout more likely if your extension cord is too long or undersized. Good luck and happy cutting.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

You got lots of replies but if it were me, depending on where you live I'd look for some type of woodworking co-op that has a band saw you could use to resaw them. Nothing like having the right tool for the job. You could probably have it all done in an hour or two and probably cost less than that $90 blade. While you're there use their planer and jointer and go home with stock that is ready for prime time. Probably take half a day to do it all. (But then again I always underestimate the time involved so plan on spending a day there.) Make sure to wrap/sticker them cuz they will probably try to twist some. JMHO.


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