# sealing log ends with glue



## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

got a question about Elmers school glue. I want to coat my log ends with wood glue to seal them and school glue is cheap, will that work as well as tite bond or other carpenters glue, thanks Mike


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

are you sealing green logs to control splitting?


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

I use Gulf Wax to end seal. Melt the wax in a pot and dip the ends spindle blanks and use a frying pan for bowl blanks. I leave both spindle & bowl blanks bigger than I need. Most grocery store carry the stuff!

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gulf-Wax-Household-Paraffin-Wax-16-oz/10420578

Some people claim carpenters glue works for end sealing but never tried it! Would rather use old paint or clear wood finish as an end sealer if don't want to fools with hot plate and pots & pans.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I went to a thrift store (e.g. Goodwill, St Vincent DePaul, etc.) and bought an old electric frying pan and a bag of candles … total investment was about $6. Melt the candles in the frying pan, dip the end of the log into the molten wax, and presto.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

ok thanks


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

do you mix anything with the paraffin such as mineral oil


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

No, don't mix anything in the wax. Another thing that works is paint, plain old latex house paint will coat the ends and control drying. Elmers school glue dissolves when wet.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

what I was thinking was using it to seal my finished project as well


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

You can certainly finish your project with glue, have no idea if will provide any protection. Doubt that it will seal the wood at all.

All wood finishes will fail over time some sooner than later. Film forming wood finishes only slow down water vapor transfer (wood gaining or losing moisture) but not stop it. Next come your wiping varnishes. Your oil varnish blends offer no sealing protection whats so ever. Only penetrating oil finish that provides some protection if apply enough coats is pure Tung oil.

There is a time & place for using any of the wood finishes mentioned and has nothing to do with cost of the product your looking at what protection you need for the project!


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

ok thanks


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## bigJohninvegas (May 25, 2014)

I got several bottles of elmers glue for free once and used it to seal up some wood. Worked ok. More recently I have just used the titebond two glue that I have on hand. I thin it a little with water and paint it on. Works well and is cheaper than anchor seal. 


> I went to a thrift store (e.g. Goodwill, St Vincent DePaul, etc.) and bought an old electric frying pan and a bag of candles … total investment was about $6. Melt the candles in the frying pan, dip the end of the log into the molten wax, and presto.
> 
> - TheDane


I have seen where wax has been used, and most of the store bought blanks have a wax film on it. I like the second hand skillet and candle idea. Going to give it a try.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

i think I will go with wax, I have a small propane grill so heating won't be a problem. thanks for the suggestion


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

If you buy turning blanks from a commercial vendor 99% of the time they will come completely sealed wax. Wood dipped into hot paraffin wax has highest moisture exclusion effectiveness of any sealer. Wax does not allow wood to lose or gain moisture. Unless the wax seal is compromised that wood will have the same moisture content as when sealed.

When we end seal all we are trying to do is slow down the drying process not stop it!. Turning blanks loses MC twelve time fast from end than sides. Blanks dry from the out side in, if not controlled wood checks and or splits. So need to end seal ASAP.

Can use lot of different products to end seal but end sealing is not a set it and forget it procedure. Have to monitor or will end up losing wood to turn.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

if commercial blanks are totally coated should the wax on the sides be removed for better drying. From what I have read that would keep the piece from drying and could promote bacteria etc.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

> if commercial blanks are totally coated should the wax on the sides be removed for better drying. From what I have read that would keep the piece from drying and could promote bacteria etc.
> 
> - Karda


According to Cook Woods ( http://www.cookwoods.com/wood-faqs/#answer2 ) ...
How do I remove/work with the wax?
The wood will dry slowly through the wax so it is not necessary to remove it if you are storing it for later or allowing it to dry. Removing the wax will increase the chances of checking and/or warping. If you are going to use the wood immediately, removal of the wax is not necessary as it will easily cut away when you start turning the blank. If the blank is wet (freshly cut), use the twice turning method and a paper bag to dry the blank slowly without degrade. The wax is much softer than the wood and will turn away without you even noticing that it is there. If you are planning on cutting a bowl blank into small boards on a band saw, just make the first cut for removal of the wax (usually a 1/16" sacrificial piece). After this is removed, set your fence to the desired thickness of your boards and start re-sawing. Remember to cut the boards thicker than your final thickness dimensions so you can sand or surface the faces clean at a later time. Allow for more thickness if the blank is wet as the wood will shrink as it dries. You can number the boards sequentially as you cut them off so that you can keep track of the book matched / sequential boards. Very careful use of a razor blade can also be effective, but the best removal method is to cut the portion of wax off with a saw.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

thanks for the information that is good to know, I saved the link it is quite helpful thanks Mike


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Can see a war of the web sites brewing and information they provide. Recommend this site specifically for the information provided.
https://www.turningblanks.net/blogs/education-center/tagged/drying

While Cook Woods not totally incorrect they do defy pretty basic facts about drying wood. Yet one of the few vendors selling turning blanks by the pound.

Fact dipping wood completely in wax is very inexpensive process and most reliable protection for storage & shipping. False wood will not continue to dry once completely sealed in wax unless wax coating compromised! So do burn off or scrap the sides of turning blank if not going to turn immediately. Why do you think "Got Wood," seals their kiln treated bowl blanks in wax?

Drying wood is simply a water removal process. Your tree Sap mostly water! We talk about free & bound water contained in cell walls of any wood! As wood drys from the outside in it shrinks. Unless we control the drying process by slowing it down some we will introduce end checking & splitting. Think of a wet sponge drying, except wood will always retain some moisture (some bound water) where a sponge left alone log enough does not. Wood is only as dry as surrounding relative humidity and never as dry as you think.

Homemade kilns used to dry rough turned items reduce amount of air drying defects. Most lumber kiln operators don't like to attempt to dry turning blanks for turning. Short thick turning blanks increase amount of drying defects

http://www.nyle.com/downloads/KilnDrying.pdf

Basic knowledge & principles of drying wood do not change but based upon relative humidity, wood species, and storage do. So take what you get from message boards, web sites with a grain of salt and especially anything I have to say. Just educate yourself based upon where you live, average relative humidity for your area, wood thickness & length, and available storage area to come up with a plan.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

thanks for the information wildwood and the caution, that is one reason I ask so many questions. I know different people do things differently but not Always the best way. one question if dealers of blanks coat them in wax could you do the same with saran wrap. thanks Mike


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

NO, you can not use Saran wrap. Karda, we have been doing this stuff for many years, please pay attention to what we tell you if you are going to ask. Plastic wrap would do exactly what a plastic bag would do, hold the moisture in and cause rot and mold. Wax or latex paint the ends of the wood and let it sit. No glues, wraps or full coverage coatings.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Most cities/counties will give away recycled latex paint for free… so just go pick up a gallon or two. Color doesn't matter, but white is the most common and easy to write the date and other info on it.










Cheers,
Brad


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

I meant no disrespect papadan and I do pay attention to all of your advice but I ask a lot of question because I am paranoid about doing it wrong. Iam going to do the wax method or paint. Thanks Mike


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

It's all good Mike, just trust us and don't try and change the info we give you. Nobody here wants to steer you wrong.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

thanks, I trust you guys more than utube. The saran thing I would only do short term untill I can properly seal. Why not was a question I always have them.


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

Saran Wrap…....Not even short time!


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

ok


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## bigJohninvegas (May 25, 2014)

There is a use for saran wrap or a plastic garbage bag, and yes sealing end grain is not it.
A little off the topic of this forum, 
Keep the plastic in mind if you are turning green wood, and find you cannot complete the turning in a single session. Wrapping it in saran wrap and or a plastic grocery bag will help save it maybe overnight.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

thanks for the tip I never gave that a thought


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