# Finding a Solution to a Segmented Turning Problem...



## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

I'm just getting my feet wet on a segmented bowl project. This will be a simple fruit compote, though you'd expect to see a real one in glass, I'm following the traditional depression-glass form for this project. To be added will be a footed column of some sort, for an overall height of maybe 12 inches. *Anyway, here's the problem!* I've encountered a slight gap when constructing the rings, each layer has 24 pieces and there must be a pile-up of minute angular errors. As you can see in picture 1, there is a gap of about 3/32" when the segments are assembled, at the bottom of the pic.  *Here's what I did:* I assembled the rings into semi-circles into a simple angle-aluminum jig, as seen in this picture:  
Then, I edge-sanded the semi-circles on my belt sander, so that the segments at either end of the semi-circles became absolutely co-planar. Pic:  Knowing that the mating edges would exactly be in alignment, I could then assemble the 2 half-circles together with a minimal glue line. Once dried and face-sanded, they'll be ready to layer onto the bowl body as seen on the lathe here:  This step has solved the problem of mis-matching glue lines and improper gaps in ring glue-ups. By this method, you're guaranteed two mating 180 degree surfaces for a perfectly fitting joints all around.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Opps! I almost forgot… here's a pic of all 24 segments glued together, with all glue lines looking pretty tight: 
 This will be the flared rim once glued to the bowl and turned. Wish me luck!


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## brianinpa (Mar 16, 2008)

That should work just fine, now if only I had a belt sander that big!


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Thanks,* algale!!* to *brianinpa*: A 6" X 48" bench belt sander would do the trick. You could edge-up a 20" diameter ring with one, it oughta be plenty! The sander you see is my home-made edge-sander made from an old conveyor, with a stainless steel platen, and uses a standard Delta 6" X 89" belt. Wayyyyyy back I think I posted a how-to on this. Oh, and as a bonus, that hunk of 6061 aluminum plate I picked up for use as a jig, the glue doesn't ever stick to it, so once dry your project glue-up will lift right off. I'm wondering if big chute board, with a #7 or #8, might accomplish the same thing?? I actually wondered if a 15-degree chute board might have been the right way to size up the segments in the first place!


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## Dandog (Oct 21, 2010)

That's the only way I have found to do it. You still have to be right on with your angled cuts. Or you'll end up with one or more of the segments looking a little smaller than the others.The smaller the segments the more you can tell. 24 segment's is ambitious.I'm @ 12 .Then I think I'll go to 10 degrees. that's a nice huge belt sander Good job Poopiekat.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Thanks, Dandog! I'm sure that others long before me can take any credit where credit is due for this technique. I just hadn't seen it ever mentioned here in Lumberjocks before. You-tube is full of videos of people doing perfect glue-ups without dealing with a gap issue, and I just wasn't getting there, very frustrating! Seems like the tiniest speck will throw off the whole works. I gotta confess, too that although there are 24 pieces in my rings, only 12 are bevel cut @ 15 degrees. The maple pieces are simple rectangles, fitted to achieve the net yield of 11" diameter. Thanks again for your kind words, Dandog!


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## brianinpa (Mar 16, 2008)

Poopie I thought your sander looked like a conveyer. Nice idea with that also.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Thanks, brianinpa! I probably should get a blog going on this project.


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## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

Good tip, as I am planing ,some segmented columns


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

The end result: 
Bubinga: Thanks for the kind words! I'll swear by the stationary belt-sander approach for dead-tight joints. Good luck with your columns!


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## clubzot10 (Apr 2, 2011)

nice bowl, 
I will also try to use this glueing methode.


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## KnickKnack (Aug 20, 2008)

I've used this technique a goodly number of times since I read it 493 days ago, including this morning to make a boxelette with 45° angles fit together, so I thought it was about time I said *"thanks"* to Mr Kat for posting it.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Thanks, KnickKnack! I appreciate the time you took to say* thanks* and how you were able to implement it into a 45-degree mitering project! You made my day! I used to put a lot of this stuff out there, just to see if it is of any value to others. I have benefitted greatly from the techniques I've learned here too, but durn it, I developed a hand plane addiction in the process, so ya never know!! Thanks again, KK!


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## recipio (Aug 31, 2014)

Just browsing an old post. I've been turning segmented bowls for a while and have concluded that that standard yellow glue has some thickness and throws accuracy out the window. All segmented turnings need assembly in two halves to allow sanding the ends of the 'semicircles' - it can be done on a disc sander also.
I've switched to a mitre bond glue which gives an almost invisible glue line and just a light touch on the sander.
Assembly of the rings, one on top of the other should of course be done with standard yellow/white glue.


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