# Best way to attach apron to MDF bench top?



## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

So I managed to score some hard-to-come-by time in the garage tomorrow afternoon, about 3 hours, and my goal is to get an apron on my workbench. The bench top is 2 layers of 3/4" MDF, with a replaceable 3/16" hardboard top. It sits on top of a 90"x21" span of cabinets I made. The top itself is 96"x24".

My plan is to purchase a 12-foot 2×12 of douglas fir, if I can find one with the pith in the center, then rip 3" or 4" wide boards from it. If I can't find a good 2×12, I'll adjust my approach to use what good lumber I can find. I will wrap the top in that, and my face vise will have the rear jaw behind it.

Here are my questions :
I am going to be drilling 3/4" dog holes in the top. A couple rows front-to-back for the vise, and a row down the front for wonderpups, bench dogs, etc. No holdfasts or anything that will need to be pounded in. I'll be making a jig to make sure they're vertical and equally spaced.

Options :

1 .) Ideally I would have the MDF top overhang the cabinets by 3", and drill the holes in the overhang, 1.5" out on center. My concern is having them in the 3" of unsupported MDF, however 3" is not that much.

2.) Drill the dog holes in the apron, however I'd need to double up the apron on the front, and I'm concerned that putting stress on the apron repeatedly, where it isn't supported, will eventually cause the apron to work loose from the MDF.

3.) Trim the MDF back, flush with the cabinet front, so that the dog holes are over the inside of the cabinet. I could easily put in a guard so shavings and dust don't fall into the drawers below. The apron would be flush with the cabinet, but I could still clamp to it as I chose to leave the top drawer slots empty since the apron would overhang them.

Second question :

What's a good way to attach this apron? I could just glue/clamp. I also have a partial box of #6 SPAX MDF screws that could help as an extra set of hands to keep things aligned. I have a biscuit joiner. I do not have a bit to cut a groove for a spline. I'm thinking the glue and screws should be sufficient if the apron isn't being used for dog holes as well.

Enough rambling. Thoughts?


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

If I understand what you're trying to do, this sounds like the ideal application for pocket holes.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Interested to see how mdf survives as a dog hole medium.

If you're wrapping the top in 2x material, you shouldn't have an mdf edge, especially if the top is flush with the front. I'd still make the overhang of pine if you wanted that clamping edge, a good idea with no holdfasts planned.


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## ChrisK (Dec 18, 2009)

The 3" of unsupported MDF will be pretty strong. An apron is a good idea to help protect the edge of the MDF. The edge will get banged up. You can use glue and biscuits, rabbit the apron and glue it to the top. Glue and pocket screws can work, though the pockets should be in the MDF.

I am using 1/2" MDF on top of 1/2" CD plywood for an assembly/run out table. I rounded the top edge over with a 3/8" R. It has held up pretty well over the last 5 years. I used what ever leftover polyurethane I had on hand to finish it. The 1/2" stock is also what I had on had. I want to remake the table with a 1-1/2" thick top to make it more stable.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

> If I understand what you re trying to do, this sounds like the ideal application for pocket holes.
> - CharlesA


I do have a Kreg jig, I could screw from the top and bottom through the MDF into the apron. That Seems like it would be pretty easy as long as I laid out the position of any holes beforehand.



> Interested to see how mdf survives as a dog hole medium.
> 
> If you re wrapping the top in 2x material, you shouldn t have an mdf edge, especially if the top is flush with the front. I d still make the overhang of pine if you wanted that clamping edge, a good idea with no holdfasts planned.
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Correct, there will be no exposed edge, it will all be wrapped. The 3" overhang I was talking about would be the overhang on the front, the top is currently 3" deeper than the cabinet base. It seems from various reviews that dog holes in MDF are pretty durable so long as you keep in mind that they are in MDF. That's why I won't be using holdfasts, and I have the hardboard top which will bear some of the abuse. Nothing is going to get clamped down crazy tight here.



> The 3" of unsupported MDF will be pretty strong. An apron is a good idea to help protect the edge of the MDF. The edge will get banged up. You can use glue and biscuits, rabbit the apron and glue it to the top. Glue and pocket screws can work, though the pockets should be in the MDF.
> 
> I am using 1/2" MDF on top of 1/2" CD plywood for an assembly/run out table. I rounded the top edge over with a 3/8" R. It has held up pretty well over the last 5 years. I used what ever leftover polyurethane I had on hand to finish it. The 1/2" stock is also what I had on had. I want to remake the table with a 1-1/2" thick top to make it more stable.
> 
> - ChrisK


Chris, to be clear, I have a 1.5" thick MDF top. I am making the apron 3" thick, but the MDF portion is only 1.5" thick. If I were to leave the top as-is, it would overhang the base by 3", and I would have dog holes in 1.5" of MDF in that overhang.


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## ChrisK (Dec 18, 2009)

I understand what you are trying to do, the overhang of 3" of the 1-1/2 thick mdf will be strong and stiff. The edge is soft and I would cover with an apron. I am not sure how well the hole will take repeated pushing from the bench dog. You might want to inlay a piece of hardwood in the top to better support the bench dog.

The pocket holes through the mdf into the apron with glue will hold the apron for a long time.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I think I agree with the pocket screw idea, Charles. I like Chris' idea for an inlay strip, although for the time being I'm going to just use the MDF/hardboard, mostly for the sake of just getting this done tomorrow. If the MDF looks like its starting to wear out over time, I can always rout the top and glue a strip in. I'm building this bench as a baby step to a better bench. I'm in no way under the impression that I'll be using this top for more than a few years.

Once I get this top done, I'll be giving my old bench, a 2×4 Basics kit, to a friend of mine who needs one, and I'll have a place to store my larger mobile tools. I'm hoping to surprise my wife by allowing her car to park in the garage for the first winter in 3 years.


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## mramseyISU (Mar 3, 2014)

> *Interested to see how mdf survives as a dog hole medium. *
> 
> If you re wrapping the top in 2x material, you shouldn t have an mdf edge, especially if the top is flush with the front. I d still make the overhang of pine if you wanted that clamping edge, a good idea with no holdfasts planned.
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


I've been using an MDF top with dog holes for about 3 years and it's worked out pretty well.


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## Notw (Aug 7, 2013)

Might I suggest another idea, I did my bench very similar to how it sounds you are doing yours. For the apron I used 3/4 popular wood instead of the douglas fir. The top of mine is constructed from (2) layers of 3/4" plywood with a 3/4" MDF top. I opted out of the replaceable top board with the thinking that by the time I wore this top out I would want to do a beefier solid top anyway.

Back to your question though I chose to drill and countersink the screws straight though the popular apron and then accent them with walnut plugs. It not only secured my apron in place but it also made a nice design addition to the bench.

I also have 3/4" bench dog holes at 4" OC (a little too far apart) and use homemade dogs in it all the time and haven't seen any distortion around the holes in the MDF.

Below is a link to my bench, it works great for me, I have added a set of workbench casters from rockler which I think is a must, especially if the wife is going to be parking in the garage some, its nice to be able to move it around.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Nice looking bench, and I'm glad to hear the MDF is holding up well. I have a stack of rough cut cherry I was thinking about using for this, but I opted to save it for something nicer. I could go get some S2S poplar, but it's a 25 minute drive each way in the wrong direction, slightly more expensive than the DF, I have a HD gift card, and HD is on my way home from work. I think I can get all the fasteners, lumber, to finish this with the gift card. I also think I can get the DF ripped, jointed, and planed in less than the hour plus it would take me to just get the poplar bought and home.

I plan to make homemade dogs, but I did put a 4-pack of the Kreg ones on my amazon wish list in case any of my family members are looking for Christmas ideas.


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## Notw (Aug 7, 2013)

I think the Douglas fir will work nicely, if I would have had my planer at the time I would have gone a route more similar to that. But I'm very happy with how mine came out and in the past 6-7 months it has taken a beating and is holding up better than I thought it would have.

Good luck with yours, I can't wait to see pictures of the finished product


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

I'd attach the 2×12 as is and have a big ol apron to do 
milling with:









Great advice above for attaching the apron.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Ed are you talking about aprons as pictured in waho609's drawing or are you talking about banding the edge of the MDF ?
As far as the overhang ,the MDF is plenty strong for even a deeper than 3" overhang. I would not every make a bench without an overhang ,the overhang is invaluable for clamping projects down to the bench.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

Glue it.

MDF does not take kindly to any kind of screw except T Nuts.

MDF is not the best choice for a work surface. They tend to warp over time because of humidity and do not take well to fluids.

I would have suggested using birch plywood or a solid wood.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Jim, I'm not sure which terminology you would use. I will be attaching the DF to the edges of the MDF. I'm making it taller than the MDF edge so that it hangs below and I can clamp against it with an F-style clamp. I'm not making it 12" tall, though. I'm thinking more like 4". I may drill a few dog holes in it so I can support longer boards for jointing edges without clamps, though.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I had two mdf panels glued together for my first workbench, and it worked quite well. Stayed flat, good surface, etc.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Brad, the pocket screws thread into the apron, not the MDF. I've done this on other projects and never had any failures. I don't think the 1.5" thick MDF is going to warp with humidity, but we will see. I should note that I have stretchers in the top of the cabinet box that the MDF top will be secured to with recessed bolts (the hardboard will cover the heads). Short of spending $100+ I don't have on good plywood, this is the solution I am using. I've had more experience with BORG plywood warping then I have with MDF warping/failure. MDF has very limited uses, but this seems like a good one to me. If I spill anything on it, I'll wipe it off the hardboard quickly. For any finishing, I have 2 2'x4' pieces of 3/4" plywood hinged together that I open up and put on saw horses. That plywood has had just about everything spilled on it, but it's not supposed to look nice.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

OK Ed
That's banding. 
I would rub glue into the edge of the MDF and let dry(called sizing) then glue and pin nail the banding on,a few clamps won't hurt either. I would not make the banding wider than your two layers of MDF if will make future clamping easier and stronger.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Jim, if the banding is not taller then the MDF, without a deadman, how do you clamp/support longer pieces to the front for edge work? The face vise would hold one end, but I'm concerned about supported the other end.

Edit : I did consider making it the same height, and my idea was to get a cheap quick-grip bar clamp, and replace the far end pad with a 3/4" dowel, which could be put into the dog hole from underneath the front edge, and the piece clamped that way. Seemed like a feasible idea, but more work than just having something to clamp to.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Theres a couple ways ,make a free standing Deadman or put some groves in the banding and shelf(if your going to have one)










If you feel you need wide banding on the front of your bench it still can be functional but you may not be able to use as much pressure when you clamp projects to your bench. If you go with the wide band for your bench I would glue and screw a hardwood cleat(at least 2'X2" to the bottom edge of the MDF and screw it to your larger banding.

No matter what route you go with I would still size the edges of your MDF to keep moisture out .


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Jim, thanks for the info. I don't want to do a permanent sliding deadman as I don't want to interfere with the drawers of the cabinet. I do like your idea of reinforcing the banding with a cleat, and I did see on Woodsmith Shop they had a plan for a free-standing deadman, so I'll have to ponder that.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

Ed…...Go to my workshop pictures and look at my main work bench…I built it about 5 years ago, and it's held up to eveything I've thrown at it…..It's 40" wide x 100" long x 38" tall….It is 4 layers of 3/4 MDF glued and screwed, which makes it 3" thick….The banding is 1 1/4" thick Douglas Fir, and it's 3" high….I glued and pinned the banding with 18 gauge nails 2" long..The bench + the banding gave it the overall diminsions….I " buired" the back plate on the vices into the banding, and added some D.F to the front face of the vices….I put 2 vices on to handle long boards…..After it was built, and ready for use, I put 6 coats of poly on, and it just beads up when something is spilt on it, like water, glue, etc. I built a jig for spacing of the dogholes (3/4", and made my own dogs).......Contrary to what timbertailor said, it has held up great, and still is…..No warping, and layers of a top coat should do the trick…..


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## Notw (Aug 7, 2013)

> Ed…...Go to my workshop pictures and look at my main work bench…I built it about 5 years ago, and it s held up to eveything I ve thrown at it…..It s 40" wide x 100" long x 38" tall….It is 4 layers of 3/4 MDF glued and screwed, which makes it 3" thick….The banding is 1 1/4" thick Douglas Fir, and it s 3" high….I glued and pinned the banding with 18 gauge nails 2" long..The bench + the banding gave it the overall diminsions….I " buired" the back plate on the vices into the banding, and added some D.F to the front face of the vices….I put 2 vices on to handle long boards…..After it was built, and ready for use, I put 6 coats of poly on, and it just beads up when something is spilt on it, like water, glue, etc. I built a jig for spacing of the dogholes (3/4", and made my own dogs).......Contrary to what timbertailor said, it has held up great, and still is…..No warping, and layers of a top coat should do the trick…..
> 
> - Rick Dennington


Rick I really like the cabinet you built under your bench, I might have to borrow this idea for under my bench…you can never have too much storage


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

Notw…. You can borrow any or all of the bench you want….Happy to oblige….I swiped it out of an old Woodsmith Magazine about 5 years ago…If you take that magazine, and have some old issues, it was in Vol. 23 / No. 133….If not, just make it up as you go along…lol….!!!!!!!


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Whelp, nix that plan. My 5mo old had a 103 degree fever so it looks like me and him are going to be bonding tomorrow. Important things first. But this is good information, I appreciate all the input, guys.


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## Notw (Aug 7, 2013)

Sorry to hear the 5mo old is sick, hope he gets better soon.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

Ed…...Take care of the cribrat….Get that fever down…That bench and any woodworking can wait….Your family is #1 priorty…...Keep us posted on the young 'un…....


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## UpstateNYdude (Dec 20, 2012)

> Jim, thanks for the info. I don t want to do a permanent sliding deadman as I don t want to interfere with the drawers of the cabinet. I do like your idea of reinforcing the banding with a cleat, and I did see on Woodsmith Shop they had a plan for a free-standing deadman, so I ll have to ponder that.
> 
> - BinghamtonEd


Is this going against a wall? Could the cabinet face the other direction so this would be feasible?


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I hope your little one is doing better today Ed.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Yeah he kicked the fever yesterday, he's back at day care but unfortunately I'm back at work. I got 30 minutes and felt that wasn't enough to get a good start, so I continued with my in-work drill bit rack. Oh well. Maybe in December.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Right on, December's right around the corner.


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