# question about Rockler's tenoning jig



## leftcoaster (Jan 1, 2016)

In the tenoning jig shown in the image, there's a lever at the rearmost part of the jig (closest lever in the image).

The lever tilts the supporting plate of the jig to the left, but not all the way to 45 degrees. When would one use this and why the 45 degree limit?

Also, for angled tenons one can turn tilt the supports back to the angle needed for the tenon. However you can't really flip the workpiece around to make the second cut because it would be angled away. Which technique seems best to folks here?

1) use a piece of scrap to shim the piece out the width of the desired tenon; or

2) slide the support piece over by the same amount?

I'm wondering which would be more successful for sneaking up on the tenon thickness while knowing that moving the plate for repetitive cuts defeats the purpose of dialing it in as one would do if flipping the piece over were an option.

Thank you


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## leftcoaster (Jan 1, 2016)




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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

I have this jig or one similar.

First, I attached a 3/4" plywood face plate. There are holes for that. This allows you to cut all the way to zero without risking cutting the casting. So, you can cut on both sides and don't need to flip around to cut the opposite side.

I also attached a digital readout (DRO) to get much more precise positioning.

I've got a thread about that somewhere.

-Paul


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Here's my thread on this.

http://lumberjocks.com/Ocelot/blog/25387


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

I'm surprised it even goes to 45 deg. Tenons much over 30 deg. are not very strong since you are starting to lose the continuous grain that makes the tenon strong in the first place.


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