# The Dado Plane Works!!!



## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

Just wanted to share a few pics of my first attempt at making a dado with my new (ie, really, really old) Wooden Dado Plane. I had to to plane both sides and the bottom flat (hence the cool two-tone appearance), sharpen and somewhat shape the blade and the nicker blade, and adjust the fit of the depth stop to make it function properly.

For those who aren't familiar, using the clamped batton to guide the dado plane isn't cheating, it's standard practice. This dado was cut accross the grain, and took less than one minute, perhaps closer to 30 seconds of actual planing. It is a little ragged, but I think some further adjustments will help.

I do seem to have some issues with the mouth clogging very easily, so perhaps some experts can help me there.

I've also discovered that in a pinch, it can function as a Rabbet plane as well.


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## kirbi69 (Jan 24, 2014)

very cool, i didnt even know those existed. but ill be sticking to my table saw lol


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## derekcohen (Jul 15, 2007)

Hi 12strings

The dado sidewalls are looking a little ragged on the right end. That is due to the blade projecting beyond the nicker. The nickers need to line up with the edges of the blade to prevent the sides breaking out. The nickers also need to be sharp.

As to the clogging, is the wedge directing the shavings out of the mouth?

Regards from Perth

Derek


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## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

You are correct Derek, The right side is quite ragged. As this was my first attempt, I was just happy that it worked at all. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction for fine-tuning. I did sharpen the nickers a bit, but did not take them to a very high grit due to not wanting to scratch up my nice stones.

I will inspect the wedge…however it seems that many of the shavings don't ever reach the wedge, getting clogged within the first 1/2". Perhaps i need to widen that area a bit?

Another question. I am assuming that, like a plow plane, that on the left side (non-batton side), it doesn't really matter how much the blade extends past the wood, as long as the nickers match it? ...and that this is better than having the wood extend past the blade?

Also, the shaft of the nicker blade is slightly bent. Is brute force the best way to correct this, either by pounding with a hammer, or bending? Or does it need to be heated first? (I'm not much of a metal worker, other than sharpening).


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

you don't want the blade extending past the side more than a smidge. (a smidge is a technical term for a little bit) because it will allow the plane to wonder and although the cut will be smooth, it may not be straight.

Make sure you have a clear opening for shavings to pass. It looks like you may have a spot that will catch in the front. I'd suggest cleaning that up and keeping a good smooth surface there. Wax can help after smooth sanding.

I typical straighten blades by putting them in a vise and clamping them straight. You can bend them without any heat. The upper shafts are not typically hardened. You may need to bend them slightly past straight so they spring back. Slow and a little at a time usually works for me.


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## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

Thanks Don! Do you think the two-tone look will catch on for old planes?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I hope so


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