# Grr-Ripper vs Rockler Thin Rip jig



## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

I have decided to use some holiday money to get a Grr-Ripper after reading about it in a recent thread. My question is about whether the Grr-ripper duplicates the abilities of the Rockler Thin Rip jig . I have the Rockler jig on backorder right now from an order I placed last month. It was $20 at the time. If I get the Grr-ripper will I have any use for the Rockler jig?


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## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

If you are ripping strips narrower than 1/8" you won't want to use your Grr-Ripper. And if the work is longer such that more than one Grr-Ripper is needed to control it, I much prefer limiting the strips to maybe 3/16" or wider.

I guess that isn't an issue for me; I don't have anything like the thin rip jig and I have no urge to get one. Your situation may be different.

Are you planning to get 1 Grr-Ripper? I would recommend getting 2 so you can "walk" longer work pieces through the cut. I use mine all the time on the table saw and on the router table.

They are very pricey, IMHO, but they provide a lot of control and keep fingers far away from cutters!


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## Bobmedic (Sep 24, 2010)

Yes, the Rockler thin rip jig allows you to cut thinner strips than you could with the gripper and on the opposite side of the blade. Both items will be a great addition to your shop. I think the smallest rip you can do with the gripper is ⅛". Even if you could go smaller it is much safer to cut thin strips on the opposite side of the blade from the fence. The gripper will allow you to make a large variety of cuts that would be otherwise unsafe to do. I suggest though that you get 2 grippers, if you are working with longer stock you can hand over hand leap frog them as you are feeding the work through the tool. I use mine on my table saw, router table, jointer.


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## Bobmedic (Sep 24, 2010)

Here is a link to a fellow LJ that made his own grippers.


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

Thanks guys. I found a set of two Grr-Rippers and some accessories at the Tool Nut that I'm going to pick up via Amazon, and I'll probably keep my Rockler order as-is.

BobMedic, thanks for the link! I've got limited shop time at the moment so I'd rather spend it making projects than jigs/grippers, but I'll hang on to that for future reference.


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## wncguy (Jan 26, 2012)

Elizabeth - I'm considering these also, which of the Grr-Ripper models did you decide on… the 100 or 200?
Thanks.


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

200, on the grounds that whenever I go for the cheaper model of a tool to save a couple bucks, I regret it.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

The thin rip tool will be very nice for making multiple strips of identical thickness. The grr ripper is more of a push block and has more generalized uses. Both will compliment each other.


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

Do you think I can keep the blade guard on with the thin rip jig or will it get in the way? It's a sawstop with the overhead dust collection thing too.


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## Bobmedic (Sep 24, 2010)

You should be able to keep the guard on with the Rockler thin rip jig because you set them up behind the blade. The gripper straddles the blade so you would have to take it off, Hope this helps


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I've got two Grr-Rippers and a thin rip jig. Their uses don't really overlap, so by all means get both!


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## RetiredCoastie (Sep 7, 2009)

2 different animals. One is intended to rip thin strips of wood (thin rip jig) where the other is more of a push block (grripper).


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## 5x10 (Feb 14, 2013)

I had the exact same question and found this thread in Google. I just purchased and setup my first table saw (Dewalt 744XRS) and have only made a few practice cuts so far (I have never used one before, I'm new to woodworking, and my anxiety level after watching what can go wrong on YouTube has led me to consider the Grr-Rippers.)

I tried cutting a super thin strip of redwood 2×4 to see what would happen, and was shocked that I could cut a strip that was almost translucent! I'm now thinking about making an LED lamp or something made out of super thin stock. Researching further, now I realize why zero-clearance plates are recommended, and also saw the Rockler thin-rip jig, but wasn't thrilled about the idea of having to move the fence on each rip, as this article pints out: 
https://www.wwgoa.com/articles/one-great-tip/three-ways-to-ripem-thin/

In that article it seems to favor the idea of using a DIY jig to solve that problem, using a 10" wide jig with a push tab, putting the thin strip between the blade and the jig/fence side. This second article has a longer breakdown on how it works, and looks easy to make: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/resource/TablesawTechniques/ThinStrips/index.html

I would love any additional insights about you guys might have on techniques you favor; I'd like like to keep all my fingers.


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## Ripthorn (Mar 24, 2010)

As others have said, they don't really overlap, but keep in mind that with the thin rip jig, you make it so that the material just touches it, otherwise the bearing won't turn freely and it can cause issues with binding in the cut.


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## higtron (Jan 26, 2011)

I have the thin rip jig and, I love it I just use a homemade push stick still got all my fingers.


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## NGK (Mar 2, 2013)

For years I've had a jig like the one demonstrated by 5 X 10 above. EXCEPT mine is 6 feet long and made out of 2-inch stock. His width of 10 inches is not critical, but it's handy if it's a perfectly even number of inches, including odd numbers. In other words, 7 inches works as well a 6 or 8 or 10. 7 inches or more give you a safety factor.

Since I use tungsten tipped saw blades I used both glue and pin nails to adhere the tab.


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## jakob (Feb 29, 2012)

I keep meaning to pick up the rockler jig but so far I just use a pencil to mark the table/insert with great results.


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