# Salad Bowl Finish // Poly



## JollyGreen67 (Nov 1, 2010)

Does anybody know if salad bowl finish has somewhat the same protection possibilities as poly? I was asked by a friend if I would turn a 16×8 salad bowl in some type of dark wood, i.e. walnut, mesquite, etc. Trying to find a chunk of wood that size is being a difficult task. It was suggested I do a segmented bowl. Problem: Would the oils used in the bowl delaminate it, if not protected by some type of impervious finish?


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Salad bowl finishing products fall into two categories either oil varnish blend or wiping varnish. Unless you read ingredient list on container or check product MSDS hard to tell. Even then not all ingredients listed.

I am not so sure film finishes like poly, or oil varnish, or wiping varnish completely safe once product completely cures. Yes, FDA list many ingredients found in these products a safe for food contact. FDA does not list products as food safe!

I use mineral oil (laxative) on any bowl going to hold food, and give a $2 bottle to customer when they pick them up. Never made a salad bowl 16" x 8" or made from walnut or mesquite. 15 1/2 " x 6" about biggest ever made and used hard maple. Have made several smaller size mixing & individual serving bowls out of different closed grain woods.

It is hard to find thick bowl blanks without natural defects. Make them too big and people have problem storing them away. Film finishes, oil varnish, and wiping varnish harder to maintain & repair thru use and cleaning. 
Take less than five minutes to show people how to reapply mineral oil. Also use mineral oil on cutting boards same op.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/food-safe-finishes.aspx

If don't like mineral oil, poly might last longer than oil/varnish or wiping/varnish. Just be aware of curing time migh be over a month depending upon number of coats applied.


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## jap (Oct 10, 2012)

You should be fine if you use a waterproof glue like titebond III


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## JollyGreen67 (Nov 1, 2010)

I usually use Mahoney's walnut oil as a finish on salad bowls. The 16×8 is just a best guestimate of size, as it would most likely be 15×6, since my lathe is a 1624 DVR. The dark wood (walnut, etc), as requested, is what's giving me fits, so that's why I am thinking segmented.

I have turned segmented prior, using Titebond III and a "hard shell" finish. The probable use of an oil in the salad is what's causing the hesitation on my part - thinking of a possible delamination disaster if the oil soaks into the wood and into the glue.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Am I missing something particular to turning? Oil & varnish finishes are used all the time on laminated/glued wood.


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## JollyGreen67 (Nov 1, 2010)

Rick: Maybe I'm the one who is missing something? True, oil/varnish is used in turning, but what I'm concerned about is leaving it unfinished, and whom ever is to use the bowl decides to use an unusual salad type oil mixed in the bowl with greens, and causing some type of separation at the glue line. Epoxy?


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Ah, I misunderstood. Oils wouldn't be my concern, it would be vinegar. Personally I would not worry about it but that doesn't mean there isn't anything to worry about.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Making a segment bowl with Titebond III (waterproof vice resistant glue) would not think oil or vinegar would cause any harm unless got under finishing product over time. Think straight poly would offer most durable protection available.

Only downside to straight poly is total time takes to cure.

Salad bowls often go from cool dry place, some humidity in kitchen, refrigerator, to table then cleaning. No finishing product completely stops moisture exchange of wood. Some better at slowing moisture exchange down than others. For a segment bowl would definitely use poly.

Oil varnish blends vary from one manufacturer to another but all you get is solvent, resins, & dryers. Do not really get much of a buildup of finish.

Wiping varnish simply resin and solvent. The more resin better buildup of film finish. I make my own starting with 50-50 mix. Some commercial products contain as much as seventy five percent solvent takes forever to get a buildup of finish.

Both polyurethane & varnish made with resins today adjusting chemical ingredients give them different properties.


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## JollyGreen67 (Nov 1, 2010)

Bill: I 've "discovered" System-3 Clear Coat, an epoxy. Maybe this will work?


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Jim, have never heard of or used that stuff, guess your bowl will last five life-times or more.

http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/Clear-Coat-c14.htm

http://www.woodcraft.com/category/2004669/2004669.aspx

Please let us know how you like working System- 3 product.


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## JollyGreen67 (Nov 1, 2010)

Bill, Good grief! Only heard about, and not investigated. Wow, the price, I think I sucked all the oxygen out of the surrounding area ! I believe what I'm going to do is make a small segmented something, and experiment to see what happens. It's like Rick M. said, maybe the vinegar will affect the glue line, only one way to find out.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I look at it like this… there are a million and one wood salad bowls out there, if the oil or vinegar were any real problem then it would be a hot topic.


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## JollyGreen67 (Nov 1, 2010)

Rick, You're probably correct . I've turned a bunch of salad bowls - nonsegmented - all with Mahoney's walnut oil finish. I'll let every one know what happens. And, luck ain't got nuthin to do with it.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Rick, do not think oil or vinegar or other salad dressings much of a problem unless get under a film finish and rot. 
Whether segmented or not wood moves through out useful life due to changes in relative humidity. Few film finishes will completely stop relative humidity exchange and wood movement.

Lady still has and uses mixing & salad bowls gave her many years ago finished with plain old mineral oil. No, do not look same as day she got them from me. Both her mom and grandmother bought bowls and used wood bowls made by Bob Stocksdale. He would soak his bowls in mineral oil until stopped absorbing oil, allow excess to drip back into container, wipe dry, and sell. While do not soak my bowls in mineral oil, lady know how to care from them. So do other families that have made and given bowls. All those folks have taught me how to care & clean wood bowls.

No, would not use mineral oil on a segmented bowl.

Jim, bet there are some penturners that would not mind using System III on their pens.


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