# Murphy Bed



## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Part 1*

After several months of planning and measuring as well as saving up the bucks to do this thing I started on my Murphy Bed with side Cabinets for one of our spare bedrooms. Since I live in a double wide mfg home this makes the most sense to free up the space in a modest 11×12 foot bedroom.

I decided to use the hardware system from http://www.wallbed.com

You can purchase this hardware kit from several different sources anywhere from $279 to $299. I found that the ones that were selling for less then $299 charged shipping so I purchased direct from wall bed dot com since the shipping was free and they included complete plans for both the bed and the side cabinets in either a 18 or 24 inch wide version.










When I got the hardware I was really impressed as to how they have everything you need all packaged up in a nice compact package and it arrived just 2 days after I ordered.

After watching the DVD video that comes with the hardware it is obvious that they have done their homework on building one of these beds. The video is very easy to understand and shows how to measure and install all of the hardware as well as installing the completed bed in the room.

Along with the video are 2 complete sets of instructions, one for making the bed out of particle board and one for making it out of quality plywood. There is also a third booklet that gives instructions for mounting the bed on either wood studded walls or metal studded walls.

Since I live in Arkansas I looked up some companies that use the create-a-bed system and found one in North Little Rock. I have had several conversations with them and got an invite to visit their shop and see the finished product as well as tour their shop.

Today I took them up on the offer and spent the day visiting with the owners of the family run business and saw some different variations of what you can do with this system in areas of design and function.

One of the things that I am going to use in my side cabinets are a couple of 100 yr old leaded glass doors that the LOML got from an old house in northern Ohio a couple of yrs ago.

!http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss302/gene1947/Murphy%20Bed
/DSCN16872009-04-11-174525.jpg(Glass Doors)!

This is the first time I have ever used something old or from another piece to put into a new project but I think I have most of the details worked out to make it happen.

So after all the study and planning I have the first pieces of the bed frame ripped and cut to length.










In the next phaseI will put the frame pieces together and then get out some of the nice fancy Mahogany Plywood and start making the actual case of the bed.


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## Bureaucrat (May 26, 2008)

Gene47 said:


> *Part 1*
> 
> After several months of planning and measuring as well as saving up the bucks to do this thing I started on my Murphy Bed with side Cabinets for one of our spare bedrooms. Since I live in a double wide mfg home this makes the most sense to free up the space in a modest 11×12 foot bedroom.
> 
> ...


I have a modest sized room that I use for my computer room that could use a bed for when anyone visits. Aerobeds are great if you are under 30, most of my visitors are not. So I have been interested in a Murphy bed. Thanks for blogging this.


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## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

Gene47 said:


> *Part 1*
> 
> After several months of planning and measuring as well as saving up the bucks to do this thing I started on my Murphy Bed with side Cabinets for one of our spare bedrooms. Since I live in a double wide mfg home this makes the most sense to free up the space in a modest 11×12 foot bedroom.
> 
> ...


Can't wait to see it. Thanks for the post.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Part 2*

I already had the pieces for the inner frame ripped and cut to length so I thought I would get the inner frame assembled today.

The first thing I did was set up a stop system so I could keep the pieces aligned from end to end. Then since I am pretty sure I will be building at least 2 maybe 3 more of these I made a story stick for the hole locations that hold the cross frame members in a "L" shape.



















Then it was a matter of putting one piece between the stops laying down a bead of glue and clamping the other piece in position and drilling pilot holes and counter sinking for the screw heads and putting in the 7 screws along the length.



















So far things are not complicated at all and the instructions are very clear and concise with good illustrations.

After getting the 5 cross members glued and screwed together it was time to assemble the side members. Here the instructions are very specific that the second cross member from the foot has to be in an exact location or later on when it is time to put in the closing latches and legs they won't work.

So all of the small pieces that I had left from ripping the rails to size will come in handy for my story sticks and again I made one for locating the cross rails to the side rails.

I attached each cross rail with two screws, one through each leg of the "L" that made up the cross rail.

Even with taking the time to make the story sticks so that future beds will be easier to make assembling the inner frame only took me about 2 hours. I guess I might have been able to do it faster but since this is the first one I am referring to the instructions regularly and doing the ole measure about 3 or 4 times before I cut, drill or remove any material of any kind.



















After seeing beds that were completed over in N. Littler Rock yesterday and watching the instructional video there is no doubt that this will be a very sturdy bed.










Next I will be laying out and cutting some of the outside parts which I will be making out of 3/4 Cabinet Grade Mahogany Plywood. I am also going to spend a little time to see if I can increase the depth of the outside cabinet some and still get my parts out of the original 4 sheets of plywood. One nice think I learned yesterday is that you can adjust the size all you want and not have to recalculate the location of the hardware as it is always located from the front finished edges of the cabinets.


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## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

Gene47 said:


> *Part 2*
> 
> I already had the pieces for the inner frame ripped and cut to length so I thought I would get the inner frame assembled today.
> 
> ...


You've done a lot of studing. It seems you have a great understanding of how future parts will fit together. One thing I do is move those 5 cross sections around. I more evenly divide them and put a sepeate board to hold the hinge later. You'll see that sometimes they don't line up exactly.

It is closer how they have the instructions for a horizontal inner frame.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Part 3*

I spent a couple of hours going over a suggestion that maybe I should make the bed outer case deeper so I can make the cabinets deeper so I got out the cutlist program and put in the new numbers and no matter what I came up with I was at least one sheet of plywood short.

We choose Mahogany for this project and at $73.00 a sheet along with a 100 mile round trip to get it we just went back to the original plans.

So off I went and using my new Gorilla Gripper carried the 1st sheet over to the assembly table to lay out some parts according to my cut list.

Once I verified that my list was good and everything was going to fit I started to cut up some of that high dollar plywood with my new Freud plywood blade.










I installed the new blade got out the dial indicator and rechecked everything to see if I needed to make any adjustments and I did tweak the Rip Fence just slightly.

After roughing out the 2 face panels, the head board and a couple of other pieces that will get used later I got the pieces I was really after today and that was the 2 side rails and the foot and head rails that hold the mattress.

There are a number of parts that are very close to the same size so I put labels on every thing.










After that I had the pieces that I really was after today.

Then I got out my edge banding machine and went to work edging the pieces that I cut to finish size.



















I paid good money for that edgebander, it is there very latest in technology.

After all the edge banding was done I set those pieces aside and went to work on making a jig that I will be able to use on both sides for the hole locations of the hardware and hopefully will make any future construction much faster.

Believe it or not that took up pretty much the whole day and doesn't sound like much but I didn't hurry and stayed busy.

Should be able to finish that jig tomorrow and get the hardware mounted and all the rails but together. I do plan on making a slight change in that the instructions say to screw the foot and head rails in from the outside and I am going to set up my new pocket hole jig and pocket hole screw them so I can keep a cleaner look.

Got the Jig Finished and will be ready to proceed with no more delays.


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## Bureaucrat (May 26, 2008)

Gene47 said:


> *Part 3*
> 
> I spent a couple of hours going over a suggestion that maybe I should make the bed outer case deeper so I can make the cabinets deeper so I got out the cutlist program and put in the new numbers and no matter what I came up with I was at least one sheet of plywood short.
> 
> ...


Very helpful step by step description. You said that you used a Gorilla Gripper to move the plywood. Does that work well for you? I use a 2×4 with a couple old lawn mower wheels on it to scoot the sheets around. Works okay but can be awkward when trying to change directions.

Looking forward to the next installment. Thanks


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

Gene47 said:


> *Part 3*
> 
> I spent a couple of hours going over a suggestion that maybe I should make the bed outer case deeper so I can make the cabinets deeper so I got out the cutlist program and put in the new numbers and no matter what I came up with I was at least one sheet of plywood short.
> 
> ...


Gary,

I just got the Gorilla Gripper and so far it does a nice job. I can put the gripper in the center of a sheet and then with my arm bent at the elbow I just use my legs to get it up off the floor and steady it against my body. Just of matter of walking to where you want to go with it from there. I did read some reviews that it is necessary to be careful if you need to travel up or down a flight of stairs because the gripping power does come from lifting straight up.


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## Bureaucrat (May 26, 2008)

Gene47 said:


> *Part 3*
> 
> I spent a couple of hours going over a suggestion that maybe I should make the bed outer case deeper so I can make the cabinets deeper so I got out the cutlist program and put in the new numbers and no matter what I came up with I was at least one sheet of plywood short.
> 
> ...


Thanks Gene. That's a good tip. Of course my set up won't handle stairs at all. Lol!


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Part 4*

Last time I got a mite confused on laying out the hardware on the side rails and came very close to making a boo boo. Before I got too far I went back to the DVD and watched a segment that cleared things up.

You put the left rail on the right and the right rail on the left with the top facing away from you. It is very important that the hardware gets mounted correctly in relation to a 1" dia hole that is bored thru each side rail.

Once I got all that figured out I and done I transferred all the locations to a Jig that I made so that for future beds I can lay the jig on the correct side rail and use a transfer punch to mark the hole locations and presto all done.

I made the jig so that one side is for the right rail and the other is for the left. I also have some more things to add when I get to making the face panels. I made the jig big enough so that I can locate the holes for the foot hinges with the same jig.

(I will clean up the labeling later but you can see that I had to mark out and relabel or I would have put all the hardware on the wrong side of the rails.










Next I got out the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig to set up and do a test run. Since this was my first time I sure didn't want to use a finished piece.

The plans call for screwing the foot and header rail to the side rails straight from the head and foot but then there would be 8 screw heads that would be visible so the pocket holes did the trick. Also there are an additional 10 1 1/4" screws holding the inner frame to the side rails and 6 more on each end.










After getting the Pocket holes drilled I set about attaching all the rails to the inner frame. I first attached the two side rails making sure they were flush to the ends of the inner frame then I installed the head rail and foot rail using the same procedure. Once they were attached to the inner frame I attached all for corners with the pocket hole screws.



















*NOTE: Anyone that is going to use this system I made one discovery today.*

The lengths of the Head and Foot that are given in the instructions are correct if you your material is exactly 3/4". Guess what? That did not dawn on me until I tried to put the the Head Rail on and realized that my Plywood is not 3/4" but slightly less. Glad it was too long not too short. So I had to set up and trim the ends off and put new edge banding on. Also take into account the thickness for your edge banding.

All in all not a bad day. Again I am not working at a real fast pace but am enjoying it all


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## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

Gene47 said:


> *Part 4*
> 
> Last time I got a mite confused on laying out the hardware on the side rails and came very close to making a boo boo. Before I got too far I went back to the DVD and watched a segment that cleared things up.
> 
> ...


I do that a lot. I usually take off about a 1/16" each time I cut. Your right most isn't 3/4" thick and after you add the edge banding your off quite a bit.

I still put the regular screws in the head side and the pocket holes in the foot end of the side rails. You wont see the head ever.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Face Panels*

Had an enjoyable day but again what day is not enjoyable when you get to spend it making sawdust?

The first thing I did today is finish out my location jig so that for all future beds I will be able to align the pieces in the jig mark all the locations and do a quick check with the ruler and drill and cut.

The first pic shows the jig with all of the holes and locations finished and properly marked. The second one shows the jig in position to lay out the opening for the Left Panel Locking Leg



















After marking the location and checking to make sure it is correct I drilled a 3/4" hole in the waste area and then with my jig saw cut the hole out to within about 1/8" inch.



















Once I had the hole roughed out I flipped the jig over and put it on the underside of the panel and using an a 1/4 flush trim bit in my router cut the hole to finish size.










After I got the holes in face panels I set about making 4 pieces that will be used for the legs and pull down handles of the bed.

The 2 face panels happen to be a very light mahogany and I had a couple of scrap pieces of white oak that I think when finished will be a very close match.

I ran the oak thru the joiner on one face, jointed one edge and then planed them to final thickness. Taking them to the table saw I ripped them to final width, and cut to length.










After that I set up my router and put a classic profile on all for edges of one face of each piece. I think they will look very nice after they are finished and I attach the antique brass handles to each one.










The last thing I did today was edge band the outside edge of both face panels and the end that will show when the bed is pulled down and then set the frame assembly on top to see how it looks.










Due to space constrictions I think I am going to sand the parts that I have completed so far and apply a coat of stain before I assemble the frame to the face panels. I am going to try my hand at a spraying a quick dry lacquer for the final finish. Hope it works.


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## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

Gene47 said:


> *Face Panels*
> 
> Had an enjoyable day but again what day is not enjoyable when you get to spend it making sawdust?
> 
> ...


Starting to look like a murphy bed center. Thanks for the post.

Quick question do the new instructions have you drill all five holes in the sideboard for the T nuts? If not you may be short, let me know and I'll send you a few.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

Gene47 said:


> *Face Panels*
> 
> Had an enjoyable day but again what day is not enjoyable when you get to spend it making sawdust?
> 
> ...


Hi Chris,

Thanks for all the comments.

The instructions I have have 3 T nuts in each ball mounting plate and 2 #8 screws from the outside in the holes closest to the end of the side rail. I guess they figure 3 T nuts are going to hold with out too much trouble.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Face Frame Assembly*

Thursday I spent most of the morning researching for a spray gun then did some sanding and got what I have done so far ready to assemble.

Friday I got some small things finished up getting ready to make the final push to complete the outer case for the bed.

Before going out to the shop I confirmed my order for a new HVLP spray gun and it should be here by the first of the week.

I then attached the frame structure to the face panels using construction adhesive and screws.










Then I marked and drilled the holes for the handles that will be used on the face. After getting that done I attached the locking leg hinges and got them positioned in the bed and predrilled the holes and attached them for a test. Since they have to be on in order to locate and drill the spring loaded latches I finished that detail up.



















Once I got all that out of the way I took off the legs and due to the weight of this baby and not having anyone around to help move it I decided to go ahead and stain every thing but the face.

I am really pleased with the rich color that the mahogany stain brings out in the mahogany plywood.



















For the final finish I am going to spray a pre-cat lacquer.

I am going to try to get my molding this week end so when I flip the bed over I can cut and attach the molding I want and then stain the front before taking it off the bench and starting on the outer case.
*
NEWS FLASH:* Got the moldings and heading out to the shop to do some work.


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## Bureaucrat (May 26, 2008)

Gene47 said:


> *Face Frame Assembly*
> 
> Thursday I spent most of the morning researching for a spray gun then did some sanding and got what I have done so far ready to assemble.
> 
> ...


Looking good Gene. It won't be long now.


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## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

Gene47 said:


> *Face Frame Assembly*
> 
> Thursday I spent most of the morning researching for a spray gun then did some sanding and got what I have done so far ready to assemble.
> 
> ...


Isn't is nice to have an excuse to buy new equipment?


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Cutting, Installing Molding, Staining Face*

I got my moldings yesterday and started cutting it to size today.

I went with a rather inexpensive precut molding in order to keep the cost down a little. I considered using Sepele but the molding would have cost more than the bed.

So here I am cutting my moldings into picture frames to put on the face panels.

Then I put them out to make sure everything looked right.



















Once I was satisfied with everything I put a coat of stain on before I attached them to the face frame. Since the moldings are not Mahogany I needed to let the stain soak in for a darker color.

Then I glued and pinned the moldings in place and applied another coat of stain to moldings and face panel together.

I noticed after I uploaded the pictures that I need to do a little stain touch up on the edges but other than that I think things are looking pretty good.



















After the stain dries completely it takes on more of a red hue which is what we are after.

My new spray gun should be here in a couple of days and tomorrow I am going to order the pre-cat lacquer that will be the final finish.


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## Bureaucrat (May 26, 2008)

Gene47 said:


> *Cutting, Installing Molding, Staining Face*
> 
> I got my moldings yesterday and started cutting it to size today.
> 
> ...


At this point Gene would you say this is more work than what you thought it would be? It always seems that things should be simpler than they are. But I guess if they were as simple as they look, anyone would be doing it. 
All the steps you have gone through are all logical and necessary, I guess I just can't wait to see it done. 8^)


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

Gene47 said:


> *Cutting, Installing Molding, Staining Face*
> 
> I got my moldings yesterday and started cutting it to size today.
> 
> ...


i just love a project that overhangs my workbench by a few feet (or more)! looking good.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

Gene47 said:


> *Cutting, Installing Molding, Staining Face*
> 
> I got my moldings yesterday and started cutting it to size today.
> 
> ...


I really am kind of surprised at how it really hasn't taken as long as I thought it would to get this far. I have been going pretty slow and double and triple checking what I am doing since I purchased just enough sheet material to do the bed and the 2 cabinets that I am going to build on each side. With Mahogany plywood at $73 a sheet I really don't want to waste any. LOL


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## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

Gene47 said:


> *Cutting, Installing Molding, Staining Face*
> 
> I got my moldings yesterday and started cutting it to size today.
> 
> ...


looking good!


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## Bureaucrat (May 26, 2008)

Gene47 said:


> *Cutting, Installing Molding, Staining Face*
> 
> I got my moldings yesterday and started cutting it to size today.
> 
> ...


I'm certainly in no position to talk because every project I do takes about 8 or 9 times longer than it should. I think my issue is work habits. Make a cut, sit down for a few sips of coffee to ponder the next cut and so on. 8^) When I went back over your project, you are making this in very short order.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*No Action Today*

Well today was kind of slow but I did accomplish a few things just not in the shop.

My new HVLP spray gun arrived this morning, and I have to say that those guys from GleemPaint are on the ball.
Ordered the gun Friday and arrived on Monday with standard shipping now that is the way to do business.

I had decided to finish this bed with lacquer and it was recommended by a fellow LJ member that a good product for a rookie such as myself would be a pre-cat lacquer that is fast drying and would keep my finish contamination to a minimum.

The only paint outlet that I have here in Forrest City is a Sherwin Williams store and when I inquired about the product I wanted found out that I could only get 5 gallons at a time. That would be ok but the shelf life after the catalyst is added is only about 4 months and I am not sure I could use 5 gallon of lacquer in less than 4 months. With the cost at $35.00 a gallon pluse another $48 for the catalyst that was just a little steep for me.

So after some research and other inquiries I found a product that I can get in 1 gallon quantities at a time that is also less expensive and would you believe it, made by Sherwin Williams but you can't buy it at their retail stores. It is ML Campbell and they have their own distributors with one being located in Memphis. So I took a road trip this afternoon to get a couple of gallons. I have seen some good reviews on this product for use on furniture by some other fellow woodworkers on another forum I belong to so I thought I would give it a try and see how it goes.

I am a noob when it comes to doing any spray finishing as I have only done a couple of projects and then only spraying polyurethane on my porch swings.

Stay tuned and keep watch here and I will let everyone know how things turn out with both the spraying and the finish itself.

Thank you all for the warm welcome on LJ and all the nice comments on my projects and this one as well.

I have a Doctor's visit in the morning, to get the ole hearing checked out then about 2 acres of grass to mow before I can get back in the shop.


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## Bureaucrat (May 26, 2008)

Gene47 said:


> *No Action Today*
> 
> Well today was kind of slow but I did accomplish a few things just not in the shop.
> 
> ...


Hope that the HVLP spray gun works out for you. I have heard all sorts of praises of them. I have never used one though I have used a Wagner power sprayer with mixed results. When I was a young guy, I had a lot of car accidents with my dad's car. We, being a dyi family did the bodywork ourselves. I have to say that after the 7th accident in a year I was starting get the hang of the High pressure paint sprayer. I haven't used that tool in a long time, actually got to be a lot better driver.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Misc chores and things*

Yesterday was a day of taking care of all the things that get neglected when we are in the shop having fun.

There has been quite a bit of rain here and it was finally dry enough to cut some grass. I have about 2 1/2 acres here, not all has grass on it but enough that it takes about 3 hours to cut it all.

Then some new headlights arrived for our old 96 Ford Escort and I needed to put those in.

By that time the day was pretty well shot.

Today I have am going to clean off the front and back porches with the air blower and get all the rest of LOML's plants out of the greenhouse that doubles as a paint booth when need. What I am really after is the 10×10 space that it allows me to move stuff into so I can move on to other things in the shop.

Once that area is clear I am going to move the frame assemble into it so that nothing I will not accidentally damage it and start on the outer case assembly.

The outer case should only take a couple of days to build and then I will be ready to try my hand at spraying on the pre-cat lacquer.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Outside Cabinet Verticals, Headboard, & Header*

After a couple of days of mowing grass, moving all the plants out of the greenhouse/paint booth and cleaning up things I managed to get back in the shop and do some work today.

After all the clean up I took the assembled frame and moved it to the cleaned out section that I have up front in the shop. I originally enclosed a 10×10 section with heavy plastic so LOML can bring her plants in to winter over.

I then proceeded to cut the outer Cabinet Verticals, Headboard and Header Board to size.

Then I added some hole locations to my universal jig that I have built for future jobs and located holes for the Bed Stops, Upper Ball Plates and the Main Pivot Plate.



















I then Edged Banded the front edges of the Cabinet Verticals and located and drilled all of the required holes.










I then took my Headboard piece and strayed a little from the instructions.
The instructions say to locate and drill pilot holes and screw from the outside face of the Cabinet Verticals at the time of assembly, but I didn't want any excess screw heads exposed on the outside so I put biscuits in the headboard and the cabinet verticals and then located and installed pocket holes from the back side of the head board.

I think that by doing this I will still be able to locate the headboard easily and with 6 pocket hole screws will have all the strength that I need.










Once I had the headboard done it was time to move on to the header which holds the top of the cabinet verticals together as well providing a place to attached the bed cabinet to a wall when installed.

Again I strayed from the instructions a bit. Their directions said to glue and nail the front rail to the header board but I did not want to have to deal with finish nail holes to patch and sand so I got the kreg jig out again and put in pocket hole screws from the side that no one will ever see.



















(Note: I think my pictures needed to be smaller so I have tried to reduce them for this entry. I am still in a learning curve with photobucket.)


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## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

Gene47 said:


> *Outside Cabinet Verticals, Headboard, & Header*
> 
> After a couple of days of mowing grass, moving all the plants out of the greenhouse/paint booth and cleaning up things I managed to get back in the shop and do some work today.
> 
> ...


looking good!


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Sanded and Stained Outer Case Parts*

Well this morning I got out to the shop and sanded all of the outer case sides, headboard, and header.

Then after sweeping the shop real good and then running the shop vac I let the air cleaner run for about an hour.

I then cleaned off all the parts once again and got out the stain and put a coat of stain on everything.



















All that's left to do now is let it dry and I will be ready to start something new for me and that is spraying lacquer.

I have several test pieces as well as a lot of cardboard to practice on before I start working on my finished pieces.


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## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

Gene47 said:


> *Sanded and Stained Outer Case Parts*
> 
> Well this morning I got out to the shop and sanded all of the outer case sides, headboard, and header.
> 
> ...


Here is a quick suggestion on future ones. One of the bottle necks in woodworking is finishing especially if you have double sided items. If you have a stain coat and two finish coats, that's 6 times you'd have to mess with each piece. I try to put as much double sided pieces on stands.

Here are some examples




It also makes some pieces easier to move because they are on skids and I just pull the skid.

It looks great. Seems like it is all coming together nicely. Can't wait for the finish product.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

Gene47 said:


> *Sanded and Stained Outer Case Parts*
> 
> Well this morning I got out to the shop and sanded all of the outer case sides, headboard, and header.
> 
> ...


Chris, How do you attache the pieces to that stands? do you screw them to the end of the pieces?

I guess you have been doing this for a while so it looks like you have it figured out but I would be afraid that I would hit one and split the end out of it were screwed to that stand like that.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Spray Gun Practice*

Well today I went out and bought myself a good respirator to use when spraying paint and lacquer.

Then after getting back home I went out and put some mineral spirits in my new spray gun and set up a large piece of cardboard and went to adjusting and practicing. I think I have the air adjustments very close to what needs to be when I actually start spraying the lacquer. I will just have to spend a few minutes adjusting the material flow once I get real lacquer in the gun.

I also fiddled with the patterns of spray to see how they will be and got a feel for the 2 stage trigger on the gun.

The truth will be in the pudding so they say and I am hoping the I have good luck with the process. I think if I do not try to apply too much material and take my time I should get some good results. Even if I have to put on an extra coat or two I will not be disappointed as long as I get a nice looking finish without any runs.

The runs are what I am most fearful of. My last spray experience was with marine polyurethane and a gravity feed gun that was not the highest quality and unfortunately I made some extra work for myself by applying too much material and having to remove some runs.

I will post an update tomorrow after my initial run. Wish me luck.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

Gene47 said:


> *Spray Gun Practice*
> 
> Well today I went out and bought myself a good respirator to use when spraying paint and lacquer.
> 
> ...


Good luck!


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## Bureaucrat (May 26, 2008)

Gene47 said:


> *Spray Gun Practice*
> 
> Well today I went out and bought myself a good respirator to use when spraying paint and lacquer.
> 
> ...


It sounds like you are all set to go. I'm sure this will turn out fine for you.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Lacquer applied - first coats*

After a couple of days of getting my nerve up to tackle the spraying of lacquer I made the plunge today.

I am using ML Campbell's Pre-Cat Lacquer with a Wagner HVLP Conversion Spray Gun.

I did a little practice on a large piece of cardboard and then some more on the inside of the bed frame that will never be seen by anyone. After some tinkering with the controls I finally got a pretty nice pattern.

I then sprayed the outer case, headboard, and header with one coat on each side. After that I put the frame down and sprayed the outer face with one coat. I let it dry for a couple of hours, even though it was dry to the touch in about 15 minutes, and then buffed it with #0000 steel wool.

I then sprayed a second coat on everything which is what you see in the pictures and I think because of the open grain of the Mahogany it is going to take a couple more coats to get the finish I am looking for, nice and smooth.



















I will not be able to work tomorrow but by the end of the week I hope to have the bed finished and ready to assemble.

Now I have to figure out what to do with the bedroom suit that is now in the room I am going to put the Murphy Bed in.


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## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

Gene47 said:


> *Lacquer applied - first coats*
> 
> After a couple of days of getting my nerve up to tackle the spraying of lacquer I made the plunge today.
> 
> ...


Keep up the good work. I've enjoyed watching you build this.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Gene47 said:


> *Lacquer applied - first coats*
> 
> After a couple of days of getting my nerve up to tackle the spraying of lacquer I made the plunge today.
> 
> ...


I agree, it is fun to follow this.

Are you using Magna Max?


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

Gene47 said:


> *Lacquer applied - first coats*
> 
> After a couple of days of getting my nerve up to tackle the spraying of lacquer I made the plunge today.
> 
> ...


I am using Magna Lac from ML Campbell. I was told that it is a little more durable with only a slightly shorter shelf life after mixed. I purchased only 2 gallon for this project and it looks like it is going to be about right. I have used a little over 1/2 gallon so far and should be able to do the final coats with what is left in this gallon and use the second gallon for the 2 cabinets that I am going to build to go along side of the bed.


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## johnpoolesc (Mar 14, 2009)

Gene47 said:


> *Lacquer applied - first coats*
> 
> After a couple of days of getting my nerve up to tackle the spraying of lacquer I made the plunge today.
> 
> ...


looks like you've been srpaying for years


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Gene47 said:


> *Lacquer applied - first coats*
> 
> After a couple of days of getting my nerve up to tackle the spraying of lacquer I made the plunge today.
> 
> ...


I have recently started using the M.L. Campbell pre-cats after using the Sherwin's line the last few years. They spray and handle equally well, but I am hoping to get a little more durability out of the M.L. Campbell pre-cats.

I need to double check now, but I chose Magna Max over Magna Lac because I was informed just the opposite when it comes to durability.

I know another furniture maker/refinisher in town that used Magna Max on his dining table and he claims that he would not use anything else in a pre-cat for durability. To get more durability he would have to go to the post catalyzed finishes.

I just installed a dining table last night, to go with a banquet that I built, and I used MLC's Krystal catalyzed varnish on it. If someone is paying me I am not trusting a pre-cat on a dining surface for liability reasons. This is supposed to be one of the most durable in their line (as I am told.)

I am going to do some testing on a sample board with water, milk, OJ, wine, and a hot coffee cup. I would like to see how the Krystal reacts to these situations.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

Gene47 said:


> *Lacquer applied - first coats*
> 
> After a couple of days of getting my nerve up to tackle the spraying of lacquer I made the plunge today.
> 
> ...


My mistake. I just checked my bill for the Lacquer and I do have Magnamax and that is what they recommended because it was the more durable. Since this is my first venture into Lacquer as well as spraying I wanted something that was fairly easy and that would not be too much of a mess. I have an enclosed 10×10 area outside of my main shop that in the winter we use for a green house. I set up a box fan with a filter blowing out of the room and was able to contain what little over spray there was without much trouble.

For the time being and with no more spraying that I will be doing I think this is going to work without much of a hassle.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Gene47 said:


> *Lacquer applied - first coats*
> 
> After a couple of days of getting my nerve up to tackle the spraying of lacquer I made the plunge today.
> 
> ...


I think that it is a very easy to handle and I think that you will really like it.

The issue of durability does not really come into play unless you are doing kitchen and bath cabinets or a table that will get a lot of abuse like a dining table.

The average pre-cat will stand up very well on side tables, bookcases, shelves and furniture in general. It is also good for doors and trim in houses.

The Magna Max is supposed to be rated for use on kitchen and bath cabinetry.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Lacquer - Finish Coats*

Well this morning I smoothed up the pieces with a quick sanding of 400 grit and then blew off all the dust and wiped down with a tack cloth.

I then sprayed a finish coat of lacquer on the inside of the bed frame as well as both sides of the outer case verticals, header and head board.

The only thing left to do is put a finish coat or maybe two on the outer face of the bed frame that is exposed when the bed is folded up.

I was going to do that this afternoon but had a breakdown with my tractor and it was in the repair shop in Jonesboro so we had to make a trip up there and pick ti up and haul it back home. I guess I have used my front end loader so much I worked all of the bolts that hold the motor to the bell housing loose and it was leaking oil about as fast as I could pour it in. That was kind of a good thing as if I had kept on the tractor might of broke in half and then I would have been in a really big mess.

I should be able to put the final finish coats on tomorrow and while they are setting up we will have to get in the bedroom and take down the existing bed and move out the chest of drawers and dresser that the Murphy bed is going to replace.

(Any one need a nice French Providential bedroom suit in good condition that is about 40 yrs old and willing to pick it up? Price is very reasonable.)

No pictures today but will have some after all the hardware has been put on and we are ready to install the bed, hopefully in the next couple of days.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Gene47 said:


> *Lacquer - Finish Coats*
> 
> Well this morning I smoothed up the pieces with a quick sanding of 400 grit and then blew off all the dust and wiped down with a tack cloth.
> 
> ...


Gene, I am looking forward to seeing pictures of this project. I really like the look a murphy bed gives to a room.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Finish Coats - Ready to Assemble*

Today I applied the finish coats of lacquer to all of the pieces.

After a couple of hours of drying time I put all of the hardware pieces on, installed the legs as well as the center fake legs/ pull handles.

I have come to the conclusion that I need a lot of help with using a spray gun. I either left out a step or do not have the settings right but even though I got a pretty nice finish it is not a really really nice finish that I have achieved with my hand applied finishes in the past. I know that the mahogany is an open grain and maybe I need to apply a sanding sealer after the stain before I started with the lacquer but I do know that it just isn't quite right in my mind.

Anyway here are a couple of pictures of all of the parts with the hardware installed and ready to carry in to the house and assemble in the bedroom.

I hope that maybe I will get some help getting the bed up to the house tomorrow from my neighbor.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Gene47 said:


> *Finish Coats - Ready to Assemble*
> 
> Today I applied the finish coats of lacquer to all of the pieces.
> 
> ...


Hey Gene
That's one sweet looking Murphy bed. Thank goodness it's not any bigger then you will need two neighbors.


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## Bureaucrat (May 26, 2008)

Gene47 said:


> *Finish Coats - Ready to Assemble*
> 
> Today I applied the finish coats of lacquer to all of the pieces.
> 
> ...


Gene:
Looks great! That finish really made that grain pop. Good luck getting it into the house.


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Final Assembly and Installation*

After 3 days of raining I finally was able to bring the main bed assembly up to the house to get ready for the final assembly and installation.

The first thing I did was place the main assembly face down on the floor and set the outer case verticals on each side. After inseting the pivot pins of each vertical into the mating piece on the bed frame I used the E-clips to lock them in place.

I then placed the head board in position and since I did not have one clamp that would span the entire width I used 2 pipe clamps and gently pulled the sides tight to the head board that I had previously positioned with biscuts on each side.

The orginal plans called for the assembly to be done by screwing from the outside of the vertical into the ends of the head board but not wanting to have any screw heads showing I had previously drilled 6 pocket holes on each end of the head board and now I assembled it with those pocket screws.



















I then stood the cabinet verticals with the head board attached up and attached the top header that will be used to firmly attach the bed outer cabinet to the wall.

Once the header was attached I removed the bed stops and raised the main bed assembly pushing it into the cabinet past flush and attached the gas pistons.

Once that was done I pushed the bed firmly against the wall and positioned it where I wanted and then using the back rail on the header attached it to the wall into 3 studs using 3" screws.










!http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss302/gene1947/Murphy%20Bed
/DSCN17522009-05-05-160214.jpg(Verticals Upright)!










This is the bed ready to have the pistons installed. I have removed the bed stops and pushed into the cabinet past vertical so that the pistons will easily install.










After the bed cabinet was attached to the wall I pulled the bed down and reinstalled the bed stops and put the panels in that the mattress rests on and installed the elastic straps that will hold the mattress in place.










I then raised the bed making sure there was an even reveal on both sides and also checking to see that the locking legs worked properly and that the latches were functional.

I then let the main occupant test out the bed to make sure she was satisfied before making up the bed completely.





































I must say that once I was able to get the bed into the house it only took about an hour to have it completely installed and ready for use.

I now have two 24" side cabinets to build that will sit on each side of the bed.

I am really pleased at how this part of the project progressed from start to finish. I am looking forward to getting started on the cabinets in the next couple of days and will be doing some design work as I go off of the basic plans that I have. I am going to be installing some 100 yr old leaded glass doors in the upper part of the cabinet and will be putting in drawers in the lower part.

On the right hand cabinet I will have to modify the bottom area to account for a heat/ac outlet that will be directly under the cabinet. This was unavoidable as there was not other wall in the room that was big enough to handle the entire project.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Gene47 said:


> *Final Assembly and Installation*
> 
> After 3 days of raining I finally was able to bring the main bed assembly up to the house to get ready for the final assembly and installation.
> 
> ...


Hey Gene
Wow nice job it looks great. Was the dog in there all that time?


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## Gene47 (Apr 16, 2009)

Gene47 said:


> *Final Assembly and Installation*
> 
> After 3 days of raining I finally was able to bring the main bed assembly up to the house to get ready for the final assembly and installation.
> 
> ...


Jim,

She jumped up there the minute we got the mattress in. It is the only thing low enough for her to get on.


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## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

Gene47 said:


> *Final Assembly and Installation*
> 
> After 3 days of raining I finally was able to bring the main bed assembly up to the house to get ready for the final assembly and installation.
> 
> ...


It turned out great! Can't wait to see the side cabinets.

Suggestion on your heating and air vents. I had that same porblem on my Built In Cabinets I just cut slots with my table saw in the base. It was the thickness of my blade and about an inch apart. It helps that there is a toe kick to hid them a little. The only thing with small bookcases you may not get enough air through there.


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