# How to cut a perfect elongated hole?



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

I need help on how to go about cutting a perfect elongated hole in a 5/8" thick piece without tear out on the back side, I need it 1 3/8" long by 1/2" wide, rounded on each end.

Thanks


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## RockyTopScott (Nov 16, 2008)

Drill the ends, then drill out the middle a bit and chisel out the middle to finish.


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## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

Do you mean you need to hollow out an oval shape in a 5/8" thick piece of wood? 
You can tape or clamp a thin piece of wood on the back to prevent blowout.
Then just get a decent 1/2" spiral up-cutting bit in the router, plunge in, route over, lift up, done.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Yea Rocky, that is what I was thinking, using a fostner bit on the ends but wasn't sure for the center, I had a scroll saw in mind as well.

I've been asked several times now from customers about phone docking in my valet boxes, I need to start including this feature on the back wall of my boxes.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

ah ok Joe, I could use the router table with stop blocks?

What if I used a fostner to drill the ends then the middle with the 1/2" up spiral bit don't think I would need stop block then.


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## RockyTopScott (Nov 16, 2008)

If you use a knife to mark the oblong Blackie, you should have a guide for the chisel to start. I learned the hard way.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

If you have a drill press, just use a forstner bit, attach a backer board to the workpiece, and set up a fence. Make your two end cuts first, then slide along the fence, making multiple cuts to hollow out the middle.


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## 111 (Sep 2, 2013)

I would just use the router table and lower the work pc over the bit.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Ok I just did it on a scrap piece, I first drew out the cut path using the drill press and 1/2" forstner bit I punched out the starting hole I then took it over to the router table lined the fence up placed the work piece down over the 1/2" up spiral bit and it went as smooth as butter clean and quick.

Charlie, I like your method also.

Thanks everyone I just needed that simple push to get me started


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Randy,

using a 1/2 inch non brad point smooth tip drill bit can also reduce tear out. Hardness or brittleness of the wood is also an issue.

What I learned from Charles Neal is setting the start and stop blocks on your router table and use a practice piece of same material. Slowly, with piece against the fence, lower the material onto the router bit, then go from stop to stop. He makes it look easy! LOL! Sounds as if you already have a solution.

good luck.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Thanks Thomas, yea I've done it many times when cutting kerfs for the bottom in my box joint boxes, only I don't go all the way through


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

One of these will do the job.

http://www.pjtool.com/14drillsaw.aspx?gclid=COKryMuT27oCFQfZQgodSFkAYw


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

@a1jim,Need to get a few of those bits now,does it ever end?lol.


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

put a backer board to prevent blowout, then spindle sander to get it perfectly smooth.

If you're going to be including this feature a lot, it might be a good idea to create a template you can use with a Flush cut router bit, then you can just mount the template on your work piece and be done very quickly. Rockler sells the bits fairly cheap:

http://www.rockler.com/pattern-flush-trim-router-bit

they also have them in 1/4 " shanks and with the bearing on top or bottom, depending on your preference.


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

wait, nevermind… I just re-read your post and finally got what you're trying to do. I don't think a pattern bit is needed, just a couple stop blocks on the table would suffice.


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