# Frame Saw Build



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*design considerations - blades*

OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.

I think I have the lumber to make the parts, but am currently stumped with blade selection and saw length consideration.

I am not interested in the gramecy bow saw 12" blade as it is mainly aimed at curved cuts which I have a coping saw for. I am more interested in the 1"+ wide blades for general cross/rip/joinery work (obviously not a single blade for all 3 but you get the point). I see that traditional woodworker has german blades which seem decent, they are either 24" or 15" long blades. I think I am more inclined to start with a ~16" long saw for now. I also see that highland woodworking has a 26" long blades but that seem a bit too long for me especially to do joinery. they also have ~15" long blades, but those look like japanese style tooth setup which I am not interested in at this point.

A few questions to you:
1. Does anyone have any other recommended saw blade supplier they had good experience with? is traditional woodworker considered a good supplier ?
2. Does anyone have any feedback as to ideal saw length for joinery/cross/rip/general use? should I go with 15-16" 
or 24-26"? (leaning towards 15-16 at the moment)

Thanks in advance,
Peace.


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## brianl (Dec 18, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


Kari Hultman used a blade from Highland woodworking (one of my favorite stores).


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


Thanks Brian, that by the way is a panel saw and is huge (but the blade is the same).

since I had to get some other stuff I ended up ordering the blades from Highlandwoodworking after I inquired with them about shorter blades to which they replied they do not carry any but suggested I could cut the longer blades down to any size which I may or may not end up doing…


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


I don´t know Purplev 
I have both 50 cm , 60 cm and 70 cm frame saws 
and you proopebly wont believe me when I said the 70 cm is my crosscut saw …. though for firewood 
with big teeth 3-4 per inch but sinch I don´t have a stowe I´m thinking of resharpening it to be a ribsaw

the 60 is a ripsaw I think , and the another 60 is a turn saw with a 1/8 blade …... so 
a good thing with framesaws is that they can be used both as a push and as a pullsaw if you want

Dennis


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


20 inch / 50 cm is a good allround size, and I would say minimum for ripping.
Smaller is for detail work, so if I were you I would not go for the 15-16.
I just ordered a 60 cm / 23 inch Japanese blade for my next homebuild framesaw…
http://www.fine-tools.com/gestell.htm
I did build two small framesaws it was easy and rewarding you can look in my posts.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


Thanks *Dennis and Mads* for the first hand experience feedback. I thought about it and this saw will be mostly for joinery which is why I was leaning towards smaller scale. I did end up ordering the 26" blades (rip and xcut) and my idea is to make the handles and a couple of cross braces for the saw at difference lengths to accomodate different blades. I'll start with the full length and see how I like it, I can always then shorten it if I feel it is too big. or make a 2nd one.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


I don´t think you want to have differrent crossbracess ….. then you need to rewind the robe
at the top every time …. its possiple but not very convenient as a shoptool 
then if you only want one saw its better to have the same length on the blades and just
live with it

here is a few pictures of a big swedish rip framesaw …. loke at the joinery ist much sturdyer
than they usualy show and talk about when people want or have make one and using it 
talking about bowing factor in the wood and take a look at the teeth tooo …. biiiig



























.
.
.
Dennis


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


Nicde teeths Dennis.

I think 26 is a good size, and I will also say make a few ir is easy once get started.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


oh wow, talk about BIG - nice one Dennis. And thank you and Mads for the explanation. I think I will follow it and just make a 26" saw for now, and if need a smaller version just make another one.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


Any thoughts about making blades from bandsaw blade stock?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


*Wayne* I thought about it, the only blades I have are 1/8" scroll blade and a 1/2" woodslicer which I am not sure would work well for hand saw based on the teeth configuration and geometry. I think frame saw intended blades are better suited for this job (I will probably mostly use this for joinery).

That said - I originally planned on using bandsaw blade, but in the case that it doesn't work as well, I wanted to make sure I built the saw based on commercially available blades so that I'll have alternatives. so for first blade I wanted to start with something 'off the shelf' for size. can then always custom fit a bandsaw blade to it (once mine breaks or is retired)


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


You might be able to get larger width blades from an industrial supplier in your area. Next time I am out I will check the supplier by my house and see if they have any one inch or larger blades and what type of teeth options are available.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


Thanks Wayne!

I am currently awaiting blades from highland to arrive on monday - those are 1 1/2" wide blades for frame saws. I will post once I get those.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


;-) look forward to see the result.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


Merci Mads… same here, looking forward to see the results


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...











Put the blade in my saw yesterday evening and testet it on a piece of oak, it cuts really good.
Not so fine, but this might be also the hard wood and my lack of training with it.









Here the blade and cut.









And here comparet to my normal 8 teeth per inch blade.

Hope it can be useful.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


nice Mads, This is the turbo cut (also sold by highlandwoodworking where I ordered my german blades from).

I did some fullscale drawings and a 28" blade will require my saw to be a monster. I don't think I want anything this big at this point and may end up going with my original idea of cutting the blades shorter for a more manageable saw for joinery and general applications as my 1st saw and may build a larger one later if needed (I do have a TS and a bandsaw to handle resawing, ripping and xcutting and don't think I'll be doing that by hand anytime soon).

I'll get a better idea when I see the blade in my hand. I think I ordered a 700mm blades which is significantly longer than your 500 blade here.

Thanks for the pics and feedback again!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


Yes a 700 is a monster, but make a saw design where you can just shorten the beam in the middle and use the 700 blade first, then when it is time to change you can shorten the saw.
I also use the TS and bandsaw for ripping, only the handsaws for special projects or the pleasure and smell of fresh wood with no noice when the scale is small. 
Have a nice one,
Mads


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


nop big is better this time ….. LOL
working like a gentleman in silence …....even when riping with handsaw is pure fun…. LOL

Dennis


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


you are trying to make it harder for me on purpose I know it!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


just call it lifestyle change as everybody ells does … when they think its a hard workout …. LOL


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *design considerations - blades*
> 
> OK, so I broke the teeth of my japanese saw and it's time I build a replacement saw. I always wanted to build a frame saw as the design and capabilities of such saw seem to outmatch any other saw type. It is tight, can do joinery, rip, resaw (within it's size range), and stores easily unassembled.
> 
> ...


Laugh


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Blades are in, Conceptual design is out*

I got my shipment from highlandwoodworking earlier which included the frame saw blades. I couldn't resist and tried them on some cutoff material to see how well the cut and even freehanded without them being stretched tight they performed real well.

I got 2 blades, both 27.5" long. 1 is a 5 TIP for cross cutting and the other 9 TPI for ripping and joinery. Yes, the cross cut blade has a lower TPI but what makes it a cross cut blade is the teeth geometry. In this picture you can see the blades with their teeth next to each other and while the cross cut teeth are larger and less per inch (which normal intuition would argue against) the geometry making a cross cut blade is such that the teeth are sharpened like shark teeth, or like pyramids with equal sides where as the rip blade (which in this case has higher TPI and smaller teeth) geometry is more like a wave with a shorter cutting edge and a gullet formed from the rounded front of the tooth, and a longer back of the tooth. Also what is not seen in the picture is the difference in set each blade has:










First thing I did was placed them on the workbench to assess how big the saw would be if using the blade as is and I must say it would be way too big for my current needs so the blades will need to be cut. the question is - how much. this pictures shows the blades next to my dozuki:










So, back to the drawing board. I made 3 versions of the saw as I will build it. one with the shorter 15 3/4" long blade (this would be the same as the saw highlandwoodworking is selling as the 400 series). another with a 19+" long blade which is a 500mm blade, and one with the blade as it is now at 27 1/2" long which is just too big and not suitable for my general needs which are general cuts and joinery.










Since once I cut the blade down I cannot elongate it back up I think I will start with the 500mm long blade version as it seems very balanced to the eye and might work out just fine and I can always shorten it to the ~16" version if I feel it is too long.

And so, I have the blades, and I have the material I want to use for the sides which is 6/4 maple I got from LJ buddy Len (Dusty65):










For the stretcher I think I'll use mahogany as it is lighter in weight than anything else I have (I don't have cedar which would be lighter still) and might add a nice contrasting color to this saw (not sure if this will work well for this application, but we'll wait and see).

Next I'll print a full size template on paper. transfer it to a 3/4" plywood which I'll shape carefully to match the profile and then use that on the final milled maple to make the parts..

Any feedback is greatly appreciated now before I start making cuts (which won't be at least until this weekend… or will it…)

Thanks for reading,
Peace


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Blades are in, Conceptual design is out*
> 
> I got my shipment from highlandwoodworking earlier which included the frame saw blades. I couldn't resist and tried them on some cutoff material to see how well the cut and even freehanded without them being stretched tight they performed real well.
> 
> ...


I will be interested to see how these turn out. I have a blade I got for making a frame saw, but it was set aside when I got busy with contracts.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Blades are in, Conceptual design is out*
> 
> I got my shipment from highlandwoodworking earlier which included the frame saw blades. I couldn't resist and tried them on some cutoff material to see how well the cut and even freehanded without them being stretched tight they performed real well.
> 
> ...


Some great looking blades Good luck on the build


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## chief101 (Oct 30, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Blades are in, Conceptual design is out*
> 
> I got my shipment from highlandwoodworking earlier which included the frame saw blades. I couldn't resist and tried them on some cutoff material to see how well the cut and even freehanded without them being stretched tight they performed real well.
> 
> ...


The blades look great. Have fun with the build.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Blades are in, Conceptual design is out*
> 
> I got my shipment from highlandwoodworking earlier which included the frame saw blades. I couldn't resist and tried them on some cutoff material to see how well the cut and even freehanded without them being stretched tight they performed real well.
> 
> ...


Those are some stout looking blades. That monster 20+ in your sketch is a beast! I'm excited about this project.


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Blades are in, Conceptual design is out*
> 
> I got my shipment from highlandwoodworking earlier which included the frame saw blades. I couldn't resist and tried them on some cutoff material to see how well the cut and even freehanded without them being stretched tight they performed real well.
> 
> ...


What a cool project!


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## planepassion (Nov 24, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Blades are in, Conceptual design is out*
> 
> I got my shipment from highlandwoodworking earlier which included the frame saw blades. I couldn't resist and tried them on some cutoff material to see how well the cut and even freehanded without them being stretched tight they performed real well.
> 
> ...


PurpLev, can you tell me if your blades can be resharpened? Or do you have to replace them when they get dull?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Blades are in, Conceptual design is out*
> 
> I got my shipment from highlandwoodworking earlier which included the frame saw blades. I couldn't resist and tried them on some cutoff material to see how well the cut and even freehanded without them being stretched tight they performed real well.
> 
> ...





> PurpLev, can you tell me if your blades can be resharpened? Or do you have to replace them when they get dull?
> 
> - Brad


Brad,
these are re-sharpenable blades. you can either sharpen them yourself if you learn the process (not terribly difficult - and then you can also always sharpen/set the blades to your liking), or you can give it to a local sharpening service of your choosing.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Template me this, Curve me that.*

Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps:

*1. Setting up a Parallel view:*

The default view in SketchUp is "Perspective" which allows us to view things in 3D which looks 'real' due to the perspective view but for printing we want to be able to see the drawings in 2-D as if they were printed on a flat paper (which is what we about to do). In order to do this you need to go to the menus under "Camera" and select "Parallel Projection" (to go back to the default view just click 'Perspective" in the same menu). Now if you have things in view they may start to look weird as you are trying to see a 3D view in 2D - confused yet?

Now since we are interested in printing a 2D image, seeing things in broken 3D won't help much, so the next change is to go and select a 2D camera direction in "Camera" → "Standard Views" → "Top" (or "front" depending on how your drawing is oriented in the 3D space - either facing up, front, or sideways). This will give you a view like this (albeit with different geometries based on what you are trying to print:










*NOTE:* For printing purposes, SketchUp will print whatever is presented in the SU view which means that if you are zoomed out and have a lot of empty space around your model - SketchUp will print that empty space and your 1 page print could instead result in a 20 pages print of 19 empty papers, and 1 with actual geometry on it. So before printing anything from SU make sure your view is zoomed in on what you would like to print as close as possible without any empty areas around your model - change the dimensions of the screen if necessary (make it narrow, or wide to eliminate as much empty space as possible)

*2. Setting up Printing 1-to-1 ratio:*

In order to print your drawing/template in full size (1" in drawing is 1" on printed paper) go the menus under "File" → "Document Setup" and uncheck the "fit view to page" as this will print the entire view to 1 page which will be not fullsize. Also change the dimensions to be 1" in drawing equals 1" in model to set it to print fullsize prints as can be seen here:










notice also that it will tell you how many pages (according to your printer setup) it will require to print the model in view. If you have empty spaces (as mentioned above) you will see this number pretty high. As you adjust the zoom on your model to eliminate empty spaces around it in the view you may see this number go down.

*3: Optional - Setting pages alignment graphics:*
Since my printout requires 2 pages, I drew freehand (no need for measurements or precision here) some cross lines that would help me realign and tape the 2 pages properly so that the template will be true. Also I printed a 1"x1" square divided to 4 1/4" areas. This helps me take a ruler to the printed template and verify that the print is indeed fullsize and the measurements are true.

At this point I printed the template making sure to set the printer to NOT fit print into page or do any other stretching or any sorts.

Using spray glue I stuck the template on a leftover piece of pine and bandsaws it as close as I could to the lines:









I did a couple of templates before this one and used 3/4" plywood. I found the plywood to be harder to shape than the pine and decided to use the pine this time around since I had scraps of it lying around from building TWW rocking horse and I must say it was much easier to shape and work with.

Next step for me was to shape the wood to the cut lines slowly slowly using a belt sander:









and using a spindle to address the tight curves:









Looking back, I should have done the tight curves first and then eased off the transition to the flatter areas with the belt sander.

As for the straight edges I used the TS and a sled to make sure everything was inline and perpendicular to one another:


















Now that the template was ready I milled some stock and roughly drew the template on it to give me some reference lines to drill the holes:









Before shaping the frame and taking it out of square (sort of) I wanted to drill all necessary holes first as it is easier to position a square board then a curved one. Using 1 board as a measurement setter I drill the holes using a 1/4" drill for the handles, the stretcher and the mortises for the cross bar then using the same drill setings drilled the other part as well:


















With the holes out of the way it was time to cut the shape out. I put some carpet tape on the template (2 sided tape) and positioned both board and template upright so that the flat reference lines on the bottom of both are aligned (and perpendicular to the holes drilled earlier) and stuck them together:










It was then off to the bandsaw to remove as much material as close to the line as I felt comfortable followed by the router table with a template bit to transfer the shape to the frames. I had terrible blow outs which I suspect was due to the material and the unusual grain orientation, but I take full responsibility for this mishap, and if I work with this material again I would cut closer to the line with the bandsaw leaving less material for the router bit to engage with, or use a fence on the RT to take the bites in steps (I think I took less then 1/8" cut here which was still enough for it to cheap off the material.

no picture of that!

I did clean some off by sanding through it (luckily I made the template extra thick so had some material I could take off without compromising anything) and one area which was beyond cleanup I cut a square mortise and added a replacement block which I will later trim down to size/shape:









As for the cross support, I milled some mahogany to same thickness as the frame and sized accordingly to width and transferred the mortise lines to cut the tenons as well as rounding off the showing ends:


















deepening the mortise to accommodate for the tenon on one side:









And the other:









...and I'm Done! next I will machine the blade to size, and some pins to hold the blade as well as a tightening rod for the top.

In case you are wondering the material thickness is 1-1/4" which is on the thick side, but I am still planing on shaping it down and rounding it over which will leave it slightly thinner where needed, but still hefty were it requires it to be.

Thanks for reading,
Peace.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Template me this, Curve me that.*
> 
> Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps:
> 
> ...


Great looking work. Nice job on the build so far.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Template me this, Curve me that.*
> 
> Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps:
> 
> ...


I Really enjoy walking through your builds. Great job so far. You scetchup skills are enviable. (I am a pad and paper boy)


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## moonls (Mar 23, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Template me this, Curve me that.*
> 
> Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps:
> 
> ...


Nice job Sharon. I'm saving this post just for the sketch-up info which I've yet to learn. Even looking at the frame at this stage, I can tell that it will be beautiful as well as practical.


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Template me this, Curve me that.*
> 
> Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps:
> 
> ...


Very pretty. You going to make the hardware or get some from Grammercy? I really like their blades for the bow saw and the ones from Traditional Woodworker for the 15 in ones.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Template me this, Curve me that.*
> 
> Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps:
> 
> ...


Thanks guys,

David - I am going to make the hardware from stainless steel. I was going to order the blades from traditional woodworker, but since I had other things to get from highlandwoodworking I ended up getting their 27" blades and will be cutting them shorter to be 19"


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Template me this, Curve me that.*
> 
> Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps:
> 
> ...


Highland are good people. I ordered some blades for mine from them for my larger frame saw. I also have their smaller one (that comes with the japanese style blade.) I did prefer the blades from Traditional woodworker though. I keep a rip blade in the long saw and a crosscut in the shorter one. I did not really like the rod tensioners though and switched them to cord.

The hardest part is cutting the holes. Some people just use and old bit and let it overheat and take the temper out of the bade for drilling. If you don't want to go that way, you could go with a diamond bit with lots of water and time. They normally are punched out in the factory.


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Template me this, Curve me that.*
> 
> Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps:
> 
> ...


An informative and interesting blog, thank you for posting this.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Template me this, Curve me that.*
> 
> Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps:
> 
> ...


Thanks David - if you posted on my previous blog entry I would have gone with traditional woodworker for the blades and bypass the trimming of the blade process  oh well. thanks for the info on the hole. I figured they were hardened and was planning on starting with a 1/8" bit or less and stepping it up. we'll see how it goes.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Template me this, Curve me that.*
> 
> Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps:
> 
> ...


Hi Sharon,

Very nice workmanship on everything, from the drawing on.

Lee


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Template me this, Curve me that.*
> 
> Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps:
> 
> ...


It will be wonderful when you have shaped it up, I like to see your systematic work process, and that you then follow it so methodical, it makes me feel a little messy.
I used to draw in AutoCAD think I have to take up Sketchup for models.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Template me this, Curve me that.*
> 
> Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps:
> 
> ...


Thanks Lee. nice to see you around.

Mads- I used ACAD in the past among other 3D apps, and while I found SketchUp quirky to get used to at first I now think that it is the most useful for woodworking applications as it has built in tools that are intuitive for product designs (woodworking related) which really simplifies things. you should check it out. PM me with any questions you might have (should you have any).


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Template me this, Curve me that.*
> 
> Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps:
> 
> ...


Thank you.
;-)


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Template me this, Curve me that.*
> 
> Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps:
> 
> ...


nothing better than making your own tools! thanks for showing us how Sharon!


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Template me this, Curve me that.*
> 
> Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps:
> 
> ...


Great blog PurpLev. You can't beat Sketchup for visualizing your projects. That's a nice chunk of maple. Looking forward to the next installment.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Stainless Steel Blade Clips*

It's snowing here so Its out of the unheated shop and staying indoors - good time to make the blade clips.

I chose to use stainless steel because I waned a material that won't rust, be strong and capable of sustaining the blade tension, and I like the color (not a big fan of brass although I do like it as an accent in some cases). I ordered some 1/2" stainless steel rods from Speedymetals a while back for no real reason when I ordered some other material as it was on sale (the SS rods) and I figured I will mostly likely end up having a use for them. the day has come!

First thing first, I turned a step in the rod. While the main shank is 1/2'', I stepped it down to 1/4'' for about 2.250'':










This does a couple of things:

1. the 1/4" shaft closely matches the mounting hole in the blade (more about that later)
2. the step down will work as a stop to resist and generate the tension on the blade without putting that stress on the wooden handle as can be seen here:










Next was an idea that I had to avoid having to pin the blades and have a tool less setup to replace blades. I wasn't sure how well it would work, but decided to go ahead and give it a try. I milled half the thickness of the 1/4" rod off towards the end, and left about 1/4" full round at the edge (not the best way to hold the part for milling, but for this purpose it worked just fine):










Using a file I rounded off the front 'nub' and using a hacksaw following the flat I notched that 'nub' (had a hard time getting a good picture of this with my phone but you can get the idea):










The reason for this is to create flat that the blade can rest on, with a protrusion that will fit in the blades mounting hole, and the notch registers and locks the blade in once tension is applied on it:










WORKS GREAT! I am very satisfied with the results so far.

Last but not least I notched the 1/2" diameter end of the mounts 0.120" deep (seemed enough for it's purpose without sacrificing the material strength). My plan is to trim a piece of wood to fit in there, and when I fit the wooden handles on top of these with glue later on the block of wood in that notch would glue to the wooden handle and will lock the handle to the mounting clips by keeping it from pulling out or turning in it. And so I have the 2 blade mounts ready:










Time to plan the next step, which might be trimming the blades to size (I ordered long blades, but intent to have a shorter saw than what those blades were aimed for).

Thanks for reading,
Peace.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Stainless Steel Blade Clips*
> 
> It's snowing here so Its out of the unheated shop and staying indoors - good time to make the blade clips.
> 
> ...


I love that you are making the hardware as well. This is something I want to get better at.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Stainless Steel Blade Clips*
> 
> It's snowing here so Its out of the unheated shop and staying indoors - good time to make the blade clips.
> 
> ...


Sweet.
Looks like a fun build.

Steve


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## 489tad (Feb 26, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Stainless Steel Blade Clips*
> 
> It's snowing here so Its out of the unheated shop and staying indoors - good time to make the blade clips.
> 
> ...


Cool project. I am very jealous of the lathe and mill. Nice job turning the SS.


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Stainless Steel Blade Clips*
> 
> It's snowing here so Its out of the unheated shop and staying indoors - good time to make the blade clips.
> 
> ...


Looks great. Just be careful when you glue the rods into the handles. You might want to either make a small flat or a slit to let the glue come out and not keep the handles from seating all the way due to the hydrostatic pressure. I made a few sets like the Grammercy kit as a learning experience when I first got my lathe.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Stainless Steel Blade Clips*
> 
> It's snowing here so Its out of the unheated shop and staying indoors - good time to make the blade clips.
> 
> ...


Sharon: A great build so far. Nice design.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Stainless Steel Blade Clips*
> 
> It's snowing here so Its out of the unheated shop and staying indoors - good time to make the blade clips.
> 
> ...


Hardware's looking nice. The stainless choice is definitely unusual but it makes perfect sense. I'm no less jealous of your mill. I really want one.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Stainless Steel Blade Clips*
> 
> It's snowing here so Its out of the unheated shop and staying indoors - good time to make the blade clips.
> 
> ...


*David* Thanks for the note. I'll make sure I leave some recess behind the rods in the handles. I was actually only thinking about applying glue to the wooden part in the notch as I have doubts how good the SS would glue to the wooden handle and all I need is something to keep it in place from moving.

*Al* the SS sure is heavier than brass… I may still regret this at some point, but since this is a removable part I can always remake it if necessary.


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## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Stainless Steel Blade Clips*
> 
> It's snowing here so Its out of the unheated shop and staying indoors - good time to make the blade clips.
> 
> ...


This has been a great build. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Stainless Steel Blade Clips*
> 
> It's snowing here so Its out of the unheated shop and staying indoors - good time to make the blade clips.
> 
> ...


WOW, those are great toys you have for working metal.

It appears you are quite capable with them.

NICE job.

Lee


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Stainless Steel Blade Clips*
> 
> It's snowing here so Its out of the unheated shop and staying indoors - good time to make the blade clips.
> 
> ...


Thanks Lee - I try. in fact I'm eager to find projects that involve machining or metal parts so that I can get more practice at it.


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Stainless Steel Blade Clips*
> 
> It's snowing here so Its out of the unheated shop and staying indoors - good time to make the blade clips.
> 
> ...


Sharon:

I have been spending time making tooling for my lathe and mill to get in some practice projects. So far I have been making brackets for DRO, tool holders for QCTP, adapter plates for collet holder to rotary table.

The other side project has been very slowly building parts for a CNC router. Lots of fun.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Stainless Steel Blade Clips*
> 
> It's snowing here so Its out of the unheated shop and staying indoors - good time to make the blade clips.
> 
> ...


David - sounds like good fun projects


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Sawing the Saw*

been a while since I was in the shop, and since I stopped on this project, and felt it's time to get it back on the plate and drive it to completion. I was in a mental block until now and it's time to move on.

What I did today was to resize the blade to the saws intended size. Using the frame I placed the blade and marked where the 2nd mount hole should be at, punched it in, and started drilling it up.

The first hole attempt resulted in a broken drill:









NO, the blade is not hardened, and NO you don't need carbide drills to work it - Its just that this drill is really small and delicate, and well - I didn't use coolant/lubricant - so my bad!.

The rest of the holes moving up to the final size went great when I added lubricant (I used lard - it's organic, non toxic, no harm to skin, and its recycling):









I then used another blade to get the shape of the edge in relation to the mounting hole, and scribed the new edge where it should be cut:









To cut the blade I used a regular metal cutting hack saw - nothing special. I mounted the blade in a vise, and to make it easier for the saw to start the cut, I used a file to notch a starting slot:









And followed along with the saw:


















Then filed it to the scribed line and rounded off the edges. now it's sized well for the frame:









now to shape the frame, sand and finish it.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Sawing the Saw*
> 
> been a while since I was in the shop, and since I stopped on this project, and felt it's time to get it back on the plate and drive it to completion. I was in a mental block until now and it's time to move on.
> 
> ...


Can't wait to see the finished product. It's looking really nice.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Sawing the Saw*
> 
> been a while since I was in the shop, and since I stopped on this project, and felt it's time to get it back on the plate and drive it to completion. I was in a mental block until now and it's time to move on.
> 
> ...


Very nicely done, Sharon.

It looks great.

Lee


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Sawing the Saw*
> 
> been a while since I was in the shop, and since I stopped on this project, and felt it's time to get it back on the plate and drive it to completion. I was in a mental block until now and it's time to move on.
> 
> ...


Sharon: A great job.. I like the look so far.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Sawing the Saw*
> 
> been a while since I was in the shop, and since I stopped on this project, and felt it's time to get it back on the plate and drive it to completion. I was in a mental block until now and it's time to move on.
> 
> ...


When I was a kid in France, many many moons ago, the bow saw was the most popular or common saw. "Western" style saw were less common.
They were many popular brands, one of the best one being Peugeot,yes the people who makes the cars.
I wish I had keep some of the saws I then saw (sorry)


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## ShipWreck (Feb 16, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Sawing the Saw*
> 
> been a while since I was in the shop, and since I stopped on this project, and felt it's time to get it back on the plate and drive it to completion. I was in a mental block until now and it's time to move on.
> 
> ...


Beautiful saw.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*stressed out... or not enough?*

With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.

I was toying with some ideas, and ended up getting an IKEA steel wire hanger as the tension control. It's quite simple, and uses 2 threaded ends one left hand one right hand, both pulling on the wire:










Putting tension on the blade using this method is not as easy I was hoping it would be and requires a pin to roate and thread those metal ends into their mating studs… I may end up just putting a standard hemp thread there at some point with a paddle, but test cuts were not bad, although the blade can rotate pretty easily - at least easier than I would like to. I'm not sure if this is due to not enough tension on the blade, or if that's just how it is (never had a frame saw to compare to). I am guessing this is due to insufficient tension though… so again - may go for hemp thread with paddle later on:










The saw is surprisingly lightweight and feels very comfortable in use more so than I expected even with all the stainless steel hardware, although now that I used it - for size, I think I'll make another smaller one for joinery (was hoping to have an all-in-one joinery+general cuts saw). For now this will work for what I need it for though:










Next I milled and rounded some mahogany for the handles. here is rough initial rounding with a #5:










I then turned it to size and shape, and drilled the core to accept the 1/2" stainless steel blade clips:










and Viola, the saw is complete (well, I do need to glue in the handles to the clips, but other that it's done):










Thanks for watching,
Peace.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


Ill take mine in ash Purp .

That looks liks its going to be a well added tool in the arsenal of wood assaulting items.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


Nice Purp.
That Ikea wire thingie looks interesting. I need to keep that in mind.

Overall though, the saw looks wonderful. I bet it will take some practice to get her to sing.
Steve


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


Stellar job Sharon! You have created one beautiful homemade tool. Clearly something to be proud of.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


Great looking. Way to keep your eyes out for re-purposed attachments.


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


That is great for a turning saw but I don't think you will be able to get enough tension for the wide blades to cut well. My store bought ones have arms that are about 1-1/2 in wide by a bit over 3/4 thick. It takes quite a bit of tension for those wide blades.

As to the turning blade, I dunno. Mine stay put pretty well. The store bought ones have wooden pins (with metal plates and have quite a bit of friction. My little turning saw seems to not turn with tension but I thing that it is being pinned by racking the arms when tightening.

I converted the ones I bought that came with a threaded tensioner over to line tensioner. The threaded ones just never felt right to me.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


To prevent unwanted handle rotation,
You may try puting O-rings

see the 5th picture on this blog :

http://cornishworkshop.blogspot.com/2012/01/oooo-la-la.html

or lock washers.


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## 489tad (Feb 26, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


Very nice all the way around. Thanks for posting.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


hmm, thts interesting *Sylvain* - I was doing some modifications to the saw to have more wood-to-wood friction between handles and frame, but if thats not going to change much, I'll check out the o-ring idea - thats brilliant- thanks!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


Wonderful build, I really love it.
Yes now you just have to build a set.
I lso love using the frame saws, just bought a bunch that I will restore so no more builds for me.
Hope life is sweet to you - peace,
Mads


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mads. I think you had your fair share of building them - so you can take a rest 

Hope the new place is full of love


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


Great build Purp, I envy your metal working abilities.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


;-) life is sweet.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


*David* in reference to: 
That is great for a turning saw but I don't think you will be able to get enough tension for the wide blades to cut well. My store bought ones have arms that are about 1-1/2 in wide by a bit over 3/4 thick. It takes quite a bit of tension for those wide blades.

The tension that I do have on the blade seems sufficient as the saw cuts well - and straight. I am curious though to experience other saws tension first hand to compare.


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


I have mine strung with Dyneema line. The low stretch stuff that they use for rigging on sailboats - 3.8 mm line with a breaking strength around 600lbs. When tightened, the blade is comparable to a backsaw on the shorter crosscut saw. I hardly get any deflection at all when sawing with it. My longer saw that I have a rip blade in, I don't use as much tension. It is more comparable to a panel saw. I can make it deflect if I don't saw straight.

Maybe I tighten them too much. I don't have any real knowledge of what is "right" but when it is not tight, the saws don't feel as good to cut with and don't track as well.

To give some scale, here is the picture of one of mine I bought at Highland Woodworking, the blade is a bit over 1" wide.









For what it is worth, the blades I got over at Traditional Woodworker cut much better than the ones that I got with the saw. My smaller one came with a Japanese style blade tooth but I have taken it out in favor of a 9tpi crosscut blade.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the input. from your description I think I have it tightened enough, and the saw cuts well and does not wander but stays in a nice straight line and cuts fast.

I think the japanese blades makes the cuts easier (smaller and more teeth) but I just don't care much for the idea of teeth breaking and having to replace the entire blade for it - that's why I built this saw to replace my japanese saw. I wanted a blade I could resharpen when needed.


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *stressed out... or not enough?*
> 
> With the blade cut and drilled to length, and the frame shaped and finished (BLO) it was time to add some tension to the frame to pull on the blade.
> 
> ...


The tooth loss is a constant issue for me once I have used them for a while. I don't really mind the blade replacement since I always have a use for the steel in the used blades. I keep a few big box Japanese saws around for cutting plywood. Sheet goods are the one real failing of frame saws.

I just wanted to mention the tension issue because the first frame I made for my Grammercy turning saw kit self destructed under tension in a somewhat spectacular fashion. I had a grain issue in one of the arms I had not seen while building (really dark grained wood)


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