# Getting epoxy down into 1/8" slot?



## WoodNSawdust (Mar 7, 2015)

I am repairing an antique bed frame. The headboard to toeboard rails attach with metal brackets. I had to replace the two rails. The metal bracket attaches to the wood rail by an 1/8" slot cut in the end of the rail and two metal dowels through the side of the rail.

I would like to add epoxy to the 1.5" deep slot to add additional strength. How can I get 5 minute epoxy all the way down the slot before it starts to harden?

(If it matters the wood is Red Oak and the bracket and dowels are steel.)

Thanks in Advance


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Dental floss (dewaxed). Work the epoxy into the slot with a back and forth motion.
Bill


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Push it down there with a toothpick? That's worked for me in some cases. Also, switch to 60 minute epoxy to give you more finagling time.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

I don't know about the 5 minute stuff (little twin tube syringe thingies you get at the borg?), but epoxy normally flows pretty easily. If you arrange the slot so that the opening is at the top, it will fill nicely - just make sure the 'bottom' is sealed so it doesn't flow out. Painters tape can be used to seal/form the area to be epoxied. Easiest way to apply is with a syringe… you can get them pretty cheap at places like Tractor Supply or any place that sells equine supplies (and probably a lot of other places as well).

Cheers,
Brad

PS: Mixing in one of those little 1oz solo cups, like you get at the take out places, would work good for mixing the epoxy and make it easier to get into the syringe.


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## Daruc (Apr 20, 2015)

Blow it in with an air hose and/or use a putty knife.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

chop stick pared to fit


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## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

Go to the pharmacy and ask for a syringe for flusing teeth. They have a longer tube that is not sharp and can be bent. As MrUnix said, dont use the 5 min stuff- hardens way too quickly..

Let us know how it ends!


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## Pimzedd (Jan 22, 2007)

+1 to kaerlighedsbamsen Use a syringe, the larger the better. I got some from a vet supply. Use the 24 hr. cure time epoxy.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

For one I would use a slower curing epoxy, like one hour cure, that way you can take your time. Haste makes waste as they say. You could apply the epoxy to the bracket and the pins before inserting, that would be the easiest way to get the epoxy into the slot.


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## daddywoofdawg (Feb 1, 2014)

does the slot go all the way though?if so,place the shop vac hose under the slot,pour the epoxy in the top of the slot,the vacuum pulls the epoxy down. once it starts flowing turn the vac off or remove the hose.


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## daddywoofdawg (Feb 1, 2014)

does the slot go all the way though?if so,place the shop vac hose under the slot,pour the epoxy in the top of the slot,the vacuum pulls the epoxy down. once it starts flowing turn the vac off or remove the hose.


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

You could use a finishing resin like "Z-poxy". It is a thin slow curing epoxy. It will flow right through a crack if it is open on the bottom. I use it to fill cracks in knots in red cedar. I put masking tape on the bottom of the crack to prevent the Z-poxy from running out.


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## woodchuckerNJ (Dec 4, 2013)

slower cure , and if not, try a hair dryer. blowing hot air will thin it, but make it harden quicker.
if you get it to run real nicely (heat), it will easily do what you want.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

Don't use fast cure epoxy. It doesn't have anywhere near the strength of the real thing.
If I were doing it, I would use a full cure epoxy (24 hour), thicken it to a smooth putty with an anti-sag additive like micro fibres, and place it with a plastic bag like this.








I did a blog on epoxy and handling it. It is here if you are interested.


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## MNclone (Jan 23, 2014)

> Don t use fast cure epoxy. It doesn t have anywhere near the strength of the real thing.
> If I were doing it, I would use a full cure epoxy (24 hour), thicken it to a smooth putty with an anti-sag additive like micro fibres, and place it with a plastic bag like this.
> 
> I did a blog on epoxy and handling it. It is here if you are interested.
> ...


Paul, I was just looking through your blog series. That is fantastic. I've found some micro beads on Amazon, but can't come up with the fiber fill. Do you have a specific product you use?


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)




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## MNclone (Jan 23, 2014)

Can you just use fiberglass fill for concrete? 
I'm filling cracksin a couple slabs with 24 hr epoxy tinted black with black toner. Making it thicker and getting rid of sag is of great interest to me!


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

The thickener that I use is called "mini fibres". I don't remember the manufacturer. There are others like Zeothix. Micro spheres and micro balloons are fillers. They don't thicken and they reduce the strength. They are good for fairing putty as they sand easily but for gluing and structural fillets you want a thickener. Any supplier that sells "real" epoxy will be able to find you the thickener you want.


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## WoodNSawdust (Mar 7, 2015)

Thanks everyone. I ordered some 30 minute epoxy via amazon prime. It will be here Tuesday. (I love their free two day shipping and they even donate something to my favorite charity.)


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## Rayne (Mar 9, 2014)

How about this vacuum trick? I recall seeing this on Pinterest a while back and I think it's an interesting idea that should work quite well. You just need to control the nozzle and see how the expoxy is moving through the slot and should be set IMO.
http://www.handy1.ca/use-a-shop-vac-to-repair-cracked-wood/


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