# Repairing broken joint on desk



## Astubits (Jul 27, 2018)

Greetings,

I have posted once before on here, but have just returned back to the project. I am looking to repair a broken joint on a 1930's roll top desk.

The break occurs along the track for the roll top, so a mechanical solution isn't possible.

I was about to go at it with regular PVA glue, but I think there are too many gaps for this to be effective.

I honestly haven't had much experience with epoxies, but I am thinking this might be the way to go. Please see the photos below for reference.

If not epoxy, what do you recommend? And if epoxy, any suggestions?


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## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

Are your pictures sideways? It might be helpful if you could pull back a bit and take a couple of shots to show how the break relates to the entire piece.


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## Astubits (Jul 27, 2018)

Thanks Bilyon. Not really sideways, the piece is on its side. Here's an image with more perspective, hope it helps! You might have to zoom just a bit to find the break.


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## Astubits (Jul 27, 2018)

Break is in the bottom right corner of the piece laying atop the desk. It's pretty small, but really significant. That little bit of flex is causing the rolltop/tambour to fall out of track. I just need to rebuild and strengthen that break and we should be golden. Added points if the fix looks good!


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

This is a textbook application for epoxy putty. Here is a blog post that will walk you through it. Done right, it will not only look good, it will be virtually undetectable. The difference between the blog post and your situation is that the wood is finished, and you won't want to do any of the obscuring. If there weren't structural issues, I'd recommend a hard fill, but that won't strengthen the piece.

http://lumberjocks.com/RichTaylor/blog/121721

Feel free to contact me with any questions.


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## Astubits (Jul 27, 2018)

Rich,

Thank you so much for this, I really appreciate the primer.

I always thought this was used for defects and voids. Does this have a similar holding strength to a wood glue?

The wood is split beyond the major defect, but the epoxy won't work there, should I glue that first?

Thanks again!


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

I only have experience using thickened epoxy.

Tint to match finish.

Tape as required to prevent dripping.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> Rich,
> 
> Thank you so much for this, I really appreciate the primer.
> 
> ...


Yes, it will bond the wood. Practice on some test pieces to see. How you work with it will depend on your plans for the desk. If you're going to be doing some refinishing or finish repair, then you can carve and sand it like my blog post. If not, then I'd recommend using a putty knife to level it and then a damp sponge to clean the surface.

Also, you'll want to use a backer board on the inside channel. Tape won't do it because you're going to be packing the putty in pretty tight. Put some packing tape on a strip of wood that fits the channel and clamp it down tight.


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## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

Has the break spread apart or is there a lot of missing wood? How thick is the wood at the break? If the wood has spread at the break, will clamps pull it back together? If so, are there still gaps?


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

For something like that I would use bondo used for auto body repair work. Just have to use the right color pencils to match the color.


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## Astubits (Jul 27, 2018)

Does Bondo offer any sort or structural support?

This is a joint that experiences a degree of force every time the roll top is raised or lowered.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Well, it is used in car repair and it binds to metal/wood very well. The crack looks small enough that it shouldn't cause any issues. If you think about it, a dented hood that has been repaired with bondo goes through a lot of stress when it is opened and slammed shot. Same thing with doors and so on. I think it will work out just fine.


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## Astubits (Jul 27, 2018)

Good point! I think the epoxies might get closer to the color assuming all things equal.


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