# diy bowl lathe from start to finish



## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

Is there anyone interested in building a bowl lathe? I enjoy designing ,building, and using equipment! Any kind of equipment. I have seen several posts where people consider building their own bowl lathe. some take years to get the project done. Some give up and never have the chance to complete it. Most of the time that is lost is either in making mistakes or sourcing parts. I have worked on several of my own project that seems to go very well and then I find that I have made a mistake that will require dis-assembly or starting over, It can be very disheartening.

My thoughts for this thread:

1.Gather information and discuss: materials, drives, options, capacity. standardize as much as possible.
2. Provide a complete materials list and list possible suppliers.
3. Explore the possibility of bulk buying some of the components to lower the cost.
4. Provide a complete set of drawings available here in the thread free of charge for the build.

A bowl lathe is a pretty simple machine. a couple pulleys, a motor, a couple bearings a knee and a tool rest. Any one want to get together on this?


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

Come on people, no interest? don't believe its possible?








drawing…








actual part….








making parts…...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=P12E08byJ6k
almost finished..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=3GBvyQd4sb8


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Roger … I have always been a bit of a gadget freak, so I appreciate your videos and the info in this post. I just can't see my way clear to get into something of this scale. If I need to turn something big, I have a buddy with a VB-36!


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

I haven't set a size. The lathe shown isn't a bowl lathe. I posted to give an example of what is possible. It is not difficult. I am trying to facilitate a venue where it could be fairly inexpensive. I also hope it will be a resource to get people up and running in a shorter amount of time. I think it could be completely scalable if properly done. kind of an A,B,C size choice thing. I had seen a frequency of posts about interest in bowl lathes and thought it might be fun. Over 200 "looking" for "something" about bowl lathes. Only one who said anything. I don't know anyone with a big bowl lathe. I actually don't know anyone in person with a dedicated bowl lathe of any size.

Please excuse the double post. somehow LJ's must have autosaved before I was done editing and i cant get rid of this one.


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

I haven't set a size. I don't plan on being an "I" thing. If I did I would draw it up and just offer plans for sale. Hoping on group interaction. The lathe shown isn't a bowl lathe. I posted to give an example of what is possible. It is not difficult. I am trying to facilitate a venue where it could be fairly inexpensive. I also hope it will be a resource to get people up and running in a shorter amount of time. I think it could be completely scalable if properly done. kind of an A,B,C size choice thing. I had seen a frequency of posts about interest in bowl lathes and thought it might be fun. Over 200 "looking" for "something" about bowl lathes. Only one who said anything. I don't know anyone with a big bowl lathe. I actually don't know anyone in person with a dedicated bowl lathe of any size.


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## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

While a lathe is not on my list of machines to build in the near future i always find homemeade machines and tools exiting and often see innovative designs. Would appreciate to follow along on the side as the build progresses!


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## thesoninlaw (Jul 6, 2013)

http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/article/homemade-lathe-on-a-budget.aspx

This one is great! Check it out.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I talked about it for awhile but two things happened, first I got a bunch of other machinery that I really need more than a bowl lathe and second, I ran out of room in my shop. Someday I may revisit the idea if it's feasible to build one that can withstand being outdoors. Perhaps build the frame from ipe and other weather resistant hardwoods and either scavenge a headstock/tailstock from a functioning lathe or build them from scratch.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

I'm going to build a lathe and tailstock with at least a 24-30" swing for turning large off center objects. Right now a 12" lathe only allows turning the things I want to 7" maximum….. I'd rather do the larger stuff. 
The only thing I think I will have trouble making is a quill that will allow 6" of travel. I have access to a welding shop and certified welders, plenty of steel, a mill and lathe all free of charge… The MT will be another problem for me if I do it, but I also know a bunch of machinists that could bore them out…. My start date will be sometime in May, as I need to finish a couple other projects I've started…... ...... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

Nubs you are very fortunate! Most do not have the resources available to them. Last night I was thinking about doing a series of pop on modifications for a jet midi lathe tail stock to get the thread going. This may work as well.

I would be happy to put together some 3D concepts for you. If you would like. 
I will need some basic dimensions.

Size of the bed slot.
Height from bed to center of drive center
You have already determined travel.
Do you want to have to turn the handle for all quill travel or would breaking it down to two or three sections of shorter travel with a total extension of 7" be acceptable?


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

thesoninlaw. do you have the drawings for that lathe? what have you turned on it?


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## thesoninlaw (Jul 6, 2013)

I do not have drawings for that lathe and I have not turned anything on it-It is someone else's lathe I happened to see on FWW.
Dave


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## JulianLech (Jan 13, 2011)

Roger,
Just curious; how much would a lathe capable of a 14" diameter cost?


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

It depends entirely on what you have available to you. If you have to have someone weld or machine pats for you. If you have some of the necessary parts already. The best way to go for |VS is with an inverter drive. locally I can get a 2 hp three phase motor for less than 50 dollars sometimes they are inverter duty. (I have a couple "toy stores" that I frequent. Often they have a VFD for about 125 but they go fast. watching Ebay pillow block bearings can be had for less than shipping some times but I suggest at least a flange bearing and better yet a piloted flange bearing for the headstock. I got two 2" recently for 28.00/pr. I have seen pillow block bearings break in similar set ups.Steel used to be cheap but it has skyrocketed the last few years so I watch Craigs list for stuff. I have my own equipment for machining and welding.

This lathe




was about 300.00 mostly steel. the vfd was 60 and the 2 hp motor was 25. I have some sprockets particular to this build from fleet farm. the cog belt was 10. The timing pulleys for the drive were about 30.

I know what I need and what I am looking for because I have the plans drawn up. The trial and error expense and effort is bypassed. That is why I thought a thread like this could be of benefit. A collaboration of people looking, watching, providing information and answers. We all have tools and equipment that we would like to have. For most of us they are a pipe dream because of cost or limited ability especially if you have to pay for mistakes! I would like this to be a place that makes it possible. With a clear direction and void of potential costly mistakes.


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

I've been wanting a way to turn large bowls for some time. 
Price is a major issue though. The three hundred dollar lathe I have now required sacrifices to afford. 
Anyway, I've recently been thinking about an article I read some time back about using the motor and electronics from an old tread mill. 
My thinking is to remove the pipe bed from the spare lathe I have (a ridgid single tube lathe), beef up the bearings, build a stand alone took rest, and add the parts from a treadmill. 
Has anyone else considered tread mill motors?


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

William, my blog has pics/videos of a 1HP DC motor first running a GP lathe then later moved to a Craftsman. Fairly easy to set up and I have schematics for an mc-50 controller (most common type).

http://lumberjocks.com/wormil/blog/34487


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

Thanks rick. 
I'll be sure to check it out as soon as I can.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Oops, should have been *MC-60* controller.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Reo, thanks for the offer. It's going to be a few months before I'm ready to tackle that project. When I get stuff figured out, I'll let you know, and maybe we can come up with something…... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## vcooney (Jan 4, 2009)

I made this bowl lathe 10 years ago, made one bowl and decided to make a stand for it and never got around to it. It's been sitting under my drum sander all this time. So when I saw this thread I decided to pull it out
And clean it off a little.


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## Elksniffer (Feb 5, 2009)

REO
I would be interested in participating. I have a general idea of the design after visiting a bowl turners shop about 60 miles from me. Several members in the club we belonged to had made similar lathes. They were about 4' high using an angle iron frame and covered with light gauge sheet metal. A sort of knee was attached below the "headstock" for homemade banjos. They were using VF drives and 2-3hp motors they were buying from Craftsupply. Settling on the design and sourcing the pieces was my next step and that was about two years ago. I have the aspen blocks around 16" that I wanted to start on.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Although I am not sure if I can make one of these, It would be great if you could show us how to make one. I would love to see the process.


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## nineiron (Sep 28, 2013)

To make a bowl lathe,turn a pedistal drive on it back. select your speed.
use the drill platform as a tool rest,and away you go. Do try it it rely wooks.


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## JKMDETAIL (Nov 13, 2013)

What kind of horsepower are you looking at for turning pieces 24" in diameter? I am thinking the Treadmill would not be enough for items that big.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

This is much smaller than most of you are imagining but it's what I have in mind to build but with headstock raised for a few more inches of clearance.










video:


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I saw this bowl lathe awhile back:










It inspired me to buy a Delta 11" headstock. I won't be turning anything that large but I'm thinking of building it to fit 16" or so. Thoughts?


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Reo, I'm glad this thread got revived. I indicated when you first started it I was about to make my own lathe that would allow me to turn at least 32" inboard.

A question I asked earlier was, what size turning does a 1" spindle become too small? Reason I ask is I have a Rockwell 45-450 spindle and headstock that could be the base for the lathe I want to build. I don't think I can re-bore it for a larger bearings to support a larger spindle.

If I have to make a headstock, I will, but don't want to if I don't have to.

I've seen Moultropes' lathe that looks like he used a 2' pipe for his spindle with a couple of pillow blocks for the bearings. I'd rather not go that route as I have access to all the necessary resources and have the abilities to make it look like a real lathe and would rather go down that path….......... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Reo, I'm glad this thread got revived. I indicated when you first started it I was about to make my own lathe that would allow me to turn at least 32" inboard.

A question I asked earlier was, what size turning does a 1" spindle become too small? Reason I ask is I have a Rockwell 45-450 spindle and headstock that could be the base for the lathe I want to build. I don't think I can re-bore it for a larger bearings to support a larger spindle.

If I have to make a headstock, I will, but don't want to if I don't have to.

I've seen Moultropes' lathe that looks like he used a 2" pipe for his spindle with a couple of pillow blocks for the bearings. I'd rather not go that route as I have access to all the necessary resources and have the abilities to make it look like a real lathe and would rather go down that path….......... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

Jerry first off I apologize for missing the question back then! thanks for the reminder. 
There are a lot of variables. I think what your concerned about and rightfully so is the shaft breaking from the load. If you are doing shallow forms like plates for example the load is close to the bearing. so the weight of the turning puts the shaft in shear. In that mode it would have no trouble. when you start to rotate the piece the weight from imbalance becomes a factor and can actually become several times more than the load of the piece standing still! when you apply the cutter to the piece the load also takes on a bending moment on the shaft. as the point of the cutting moves out from the center this load increases exponentially rather then linearly. the torque also plays a factor. Is the Rockwell only 1"? Look at a motor for example as the rpm goes down for the same hp the shaft diameter goes up because there is more torque that needs to be delivered. with something of that large diameter even using a fractional HP motor you will be reducing speed and increasing torque. It would be safe to assume that there was a little direct engineering that went into the rockwell and it was designed to work within that envelope. I would look into building a headstock from scratch or buying just a headstock off the net. If you plan to stay on large slow speed turnings for this lathe plain bearings will work just fine but if you plan to do small stuff occasionally and soup up the speed yo will need to get into ball or roller bearings. I would stay away from the pillow block style and go with a four bolt flange or piloted bearing. If you have the capability and want to do it up round use tapered roller bearings and thread the back end for preload. for something that large I would suggest at least 2" diameter and no bore for a MT fitting make a threaded adapter for the MT fitting to thread on your spindle nose. This is is a headstok I did a couple years ago 2" shaft with piloted flange bearings no MT Socket 2hp drive with a jackshaft reduction so I could really get to the basement on the RPM's. It s also equipped with a vfd for variable speed. don't get caught up with the vfd being the single way to vary the speed from min to max! as the rpms go down the amperage skyrockets and it is hard on even the motors classified for vfd use.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Reo, thanks for the info and picture. I had that type of headstock in mind, but didn't really know what size I should make the spindle. Bearings are also a problem. I know that front wheel bearings on cars and trucks take a lot of abuse, and thought those might be what I'll use.

I hadn't really thought thought about speeds I would have, but a jack shaft looks to be in the works. I have a welding shop at my disposal with plenty of material, a lathe and a mill. All I would need to purchase would be the stock for the spindle, bearings and pulleys which I will make.

The machinery I'll be using holds fairly good tolerance's, but I'm not that sure I could line bore the bearing pockets with the precision required.

As far as the tailstock and tool rest design, I'm sold on the camlock design, but can't figure out how to do the ends on a 3 jaw chuck. ............... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

the offset on the cam lock cant be to far or it takes to much pressure to lock it in place and less vibration to knock it lose. mark the jaw of the chuck you shim and use a piece of 16 gage sheet metal to offset the shaft. you'll end up with a 125 total eccentric. take care when flipping to position the stock exactly mirrored on the same jaw. if you use two front wheel bearings you will have to be very accurate. flange bearings are spherical and self aligning so they are very forgiving. with a mill it would be easy.


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## prime2357 (Aug 30, 2014)

*Large Bowl Lathe-Heavy, easy to build and cost effective.*

When designing a large bowl lathe (24" Bowl lathe with a six foot outboard swing) the best premiss to follow is "if in doubt…Build it stout". The bowl lathe I'm designing follows that rule.

*Here are a few of my initial design constraints:*

- *Main column* is a massive (high mass, heavy) at 14" wide X 15" deep X 48" high, solid main column. The column is built like a glue-lam beam with two, 11 1/2" X 3" openings, at bed height, to act as mortices for the bed beams that form two massive 11 1/2" X 3" X 15" long tenons. The bed assembly is lagged to the main column and and has two large foxtail wedges in each bed rail (tenon) at the far left drive side, heavy work bench style.

- *The bed assembly* consists of two 63" X 3'' X 11 1/2 bed members (48" bed with 15" that protrude through the main column when mounted up.) Bed rails are 1/2" X 3 1/2" 48" L, precision ground steel with a 12" swing away extension.

- *The 2" dia. spindle* is 24" long to span the 14" wide main column. I designed the spindle with a 4" projection at each end with a 1 1/4" - 8 TPI and M2 taper with a 5/8 through hole. Spindle hight is set at 40" to match my elbow height. Spindle bearings are, deep groove heavy service, 2" id ball bearings housed in a heavy, square flange, castings.

- *My preferred motor *is a WEG or Siemens 3hp, 3ph, 220v TEFC inverter duty motor. The motor is mounted on a 14" X 15" X 24" high, solid laminated pedestal behind the main column (~ half the heigh of the main column.) 
The motor is positioned in line with the micro spline drive belt at the left, drive side of the main column. The motor can be positioned up or down and tensioned with a switch on the control box that controls either a 1 1/2, dia X ~4" stroke double acting, air cylinder or a similar spec. electric linear actuator.

- *The control system* is mounted in a !2" X 12" X 4" NEMA-1 Hoffman Box with a full back plane. It varies from convention in that it has air, vacuum and electrical controls in the same box. It's a frustrating convention anyhow e.g. what do you do with electro-pneumatic control manifolds? All control functions will use standard 22.5 mm Siemens switch gear. I will also remote the VFD display and control pad to the front panel with the main box mounted to the back of the box for better cooling. There will be a "Remote/Local" switch to allow control from a tailstock mounted control box (on/off, speed, E-Stop)

- *The Tailstock and Banjo* are fairly standard layout but with very heavy construction befitting a 24" Bowl lathe(six foot swing, outboard). I had already designed in cam operated lock downs for both. But, I feel that I can get higher force (no shaft deflection) and simpler, more reliable operation with a standard lock bolt construction.

*The overall plan* is to get all the detail and dimension drawings completed then document the build with video and pictures and post to U-tube etc. The full detailed plans and build description will also be available to purchase for a reasonable price. I plan to follow up with lots of you-tube vids of the "Beast" in action. I just finished the layout drawings, starting on the detail and dimension drawings and bill of materials.

*Thanks for your interest. Comments and suggestions welcome…I think I'm gonna need a bigger shop…oh goody
*


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## jacksdvds (Jun 13, 2015)

> http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/article/homemade-lathe-on-a-budget.aspx
> 
> This one is great! Check it out.
> 
> - thesoninlaw


I would hate to attempt with this lathe an unbalanced piece without a tail stock as insurance. If the concept were carried further and a tail stock and VSD head were called out it might be plausable.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

That's one COOL project…

Very good job!


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## prime2357 (Aug 30, 2014)

Beautiful lathe. I agree, It does need a tailstock for out of balance work. I'm sure one could be fabricated. A bed extension should probably be made too. But overall, a really nice looking lathe. Very professional looking lathe…kunk


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