# What do you think of this craftsman layout on my 2nd floor?



## Canofworms (Apr 15, 2014)

I want to do this on my 2nd floor and do a cross head on the first floor. That way if I want to dress it up I can add a crown. 
This is the layout. I ran out of space at the bottom of the page. Do you think the 1×6 as the apron will look too big? I think I need to use 1×4. 
What about the angles and the overhang. Sill size?
What do you think?


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Just my opinion but the top piece seems a bit wide, and I am not sure I would use the 1×4 on the bottom. Good luck.


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## Canofworms (Apr 15, 2014)

I hear what you are saying. I thought that also about the 6" top. But then I thought the purpose of the angle cut is to imply crown that would sit on the cross head. So, if you take a 5" (4.5")and add 1/2" for the first bead, then 3/4 for the top bead you get pretty close to what a 1×6 really is. Does that make sense?


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Well first of all, it is not to scale. The 1×6 at the top is drawn much wider than the 1×6 at the bottom. I would draw it up in sketchup or similar program so the scale is accurate first. 
I'm not wild about the angled pieces, but it is just personal preference. If you decide to keep the angles, I would try a softer angle, perhaps 7 degrees or so. Just an idea.

Here's how I did our trim if you are interested…



























Best of luck with it.


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Maybe some of it is the scale of the drawing in the OP. Even though the top and bottom trim are marked as 1×6. The top piece appears a bit wider than the bottom piece marked 1×6 with a ? on it. Not sure which one is to the correct scale.

Edit: Willie beat me to it with quicker typing.


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## Canofworms (Apr 15, 2014)

I ran out of space. But after I drew it I though the 1×4 below the sill and then a 1×3 apron might look good.

I will try out the 7 degree cut and see how that looks.


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## Canofworms (Apr 15, 2014)

Or actually a 1×4 below the sill with a 1×2 apron at an angle will look visually better. 
But there should be a reveal if I do that.


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## datrder (Oct 31, 2013)

Canofworms, The scale of your diagram doesn't look pleasing to the eye. If I were you I would find an example of a finished trim package and copy it. From your questions you don't seem to have a lot of experience with this type of thing (nothing wrong with that) so it would be easier to copy a professionally installed job (for scale) than to attempt to figure this out in this manner.

Now this is jmho but, personally a 33 degree rake on your head piece seems excessive. The part of trim you are referring to as a "sill" is actually called a stool and I would make the horn on the stool match the overhang on the bottom of your head piece. Additionally the edge of the apron should line up with the outside leg of the casing. Not sure what you are going for with the two piece apron, but the phrase "less is more" comes to mind. Finally it will be far easier for you to make the call on scale if your diagram is in scale i.e. your casing is 1×4 as well as your bottom apron piece but one is over twice the width of the other in the diagram, et al.

Best of luck!


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## Canofworms (Apr 15, 2014)

I hear what you are saying. There isn't much on this look on the web, but I saw a picture and I did this in the basement over a sliding door in another house and it was quick and easy. 
This one I want to do a little more planning. 
How about this?


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## Canofworms (Apr 15, 2014)

Actually this one has measurements.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I know someone is frantically drawing something in sketchup right now. What about trimming the windows as in the picture above, but with a square apron and less angle on the header?


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## Vincent (Mar 10, 2009)

The new drawing is better than the original. Personally, I am not a big fan of the angle. In addition, unless your house has 9-10 foot ceilings, it is likely to be too massive. I prefer to back band my window and door trim.

Study bay window (rift oak, cherry & walnut danish oil finish)










Laundry room (rift ash, dk walnut danish oil)



















Bedroom (rift oak Walnut Danish oil finish)


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## Canofworms (Apr 15, 2014)

Here are two with measurements. 
And I am faster at that than you'd think. : )
I thought about square. but I really like this look.

This one is with a 6" head









This is with a 5" head.









This is the look I am going for:


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## Canofworms (Apr 15, 2014)

This is very nice, but my budget and skills and materials are not the best. 
I see in my last picture that the head projects out and creates a layered effect. 
I also see the angle is less than in my sketch. 
You guys are great by the way. Thank you for all your feedback. 
My ceilings are not high and I think the 6" head will be too big and I also think the crosshead would be a little too heavy for the smaller rooms. 
What do you think?


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## botanist (Sep 17, 2008)

Personally, I think 33 degrees is a little too steep, but I like the 1×6 top. What you're attempting is a design that in my opinion has a root in the design of torii gates in Japan and they also have a strong symmetry to them that your design is lacking. That's why the 33 degree cut looks out of place to me. In this drawing, you can see that if you trace a line down the ends of the top elements to the base of the legs, they touch the intersection of where the leg meets the base. I would try to emulate that idea in your drawing, such that if you drew a line along the end of the top trim to the inside intersection (where it meets the sill) of the side piece it would look more balanced.

Other points: make the top a little longer so that it extends a little further (personally, I would extend it 2 1/8 " because that's proportional based on the golden ratio to the thickness of the side trim), again so that you're emulating the Japanese design a little more, and keep the apron with straight cuts, not angled.

Keep the 1×6 top and 1×4 sides and apron because then the sizes of those pieces are proportional based on the golden ratio and are therefore more visually appealing.


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## Canofworms (Apr 15, 2014)

I hear what u a saying. But if I had to think about it there was a strong interest in the orient way back when and this may be a craftsman interpretation.
Frankly I think I will just go with a standard cap like everyone else.
I don't want to install something that looks good to me and looks like crud to anyone else. 
I did this in my basement just because I thought it looked better than big box cheapo casing.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I would let the stool protrude out to the side more. Go past the casing at least 3/4 inch. Cut some scrap and see what you think.


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## Canofworms (Apr 15, 2014)

I decided against it and will just do the standard. 
Thank you for being the sounding board.


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## Canofworms (Apr 15, 2014)

Whats the reveal on the casing cap, fillet and stool?


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## datrder (Oct 31, 2013)

I think you're getting there, I still would ease the angle on the head casing and the apron…IMHO it will make the job look more professional. I think the the angle in the photo of the plate rack is about right. With regard to the apron the long point should terminate aligned with the outside edge of the casing. So it should be a little longer than in your drawing. Also the casing and the apron should be the same width. What your trying to do is let the head piece be prominent. You're on the right track and I commend you for seeking advice here, there are some great craftsman here, I learn a thing or two every time I am here!! But most important of all don't get discouraged and have fun with it!!!


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