# Prep of red oak before staining



## WOODIE1 (Feb 28, 2012)

I have searched but am overwhelmed with all the different replies. Finished a fireplace surround and bookshelf with the old HD red oak solid 3/4 wood.

Does red oak need any sealer or??? before using a stain? I am going with General stains either water or oil depends on avail color.

I would also like to use either a tung oil or wipe on finish to keep it simple.

Sealer? sand after sealer? Shelac? before stain? Any recommendations appreciated but please I am new so include a good description or name of the product as I get lost easy.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I would use a grain fillerhttp://aquacoat.com/?p=257 sand it back apply some GF dyestain http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2020491/General-Finishes-Water-Based-Dyes-.aspxand then a clear coat. I don't think tung oil offers a lot of protection. This is much better.
http://www.amazon.com/General-Finishes-BASE-SATIN-COAT/dp/B001DSY7L6
no other sealer is necessary before or after.


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

It depends on what you want to see when you're done. Red oak grain is pretty porus and will absorb quite a bit more stain then the rest of the board. That's what makes red oak grain "pop" like it does. If you get more "pop" than you like, try a preconditioner or grain sealer so the stain doesn't soak so deeply into the grain.

As always, practice on scrap before you commit yourself on a piece you've put a lot of work into.


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## WOODIE1 (Feb 28, 2012)

Thanks. I think I am going to skip the grain filler as I like the grain pop look. I would like to ton it down a bit but not eliminate it so I guess I will try a grain sealer.

Jim in the above are you putting an oil clear on top of water based dye?

I love wood working but always hated the finish process and this is from someone who used to paint cars.

I am going with a clear as we are now building a matching book case that will be exposed to sunlight.

Thanks off to Rockler to see what they have.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

No problem putting the oil base over the waterbase. If you want to learn more about finishing Charles Neil has a great video set called Finishing A-Z beyond the books. It so happens he was a auto painter years ago too.

https://charlesneilwoodworking.3dcartstores.com/Finishing-A-to-Z--Beyond-the-Books-10-Disc-Set_p_8.html


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Jim has it right, and no issue with the Arm R seal over Wb colorants, skipping the grain filler is a personal choice, his combo will do well ! I f your spraying a good top coat is GF Hight performance it also seems to have good heat resistence.


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

Red oak takes either dye or pigmented stains very well. Keep it simple by topping with a wipe-on oil poly that you can make by thinning poly from the can with naptha. You don't have to get any more complicated than that.


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## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

What Jim said.


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## WOODIE1 (Feb 28, 2012)

Thanks for all the help. I made a couple test pieces. The rig was the plain Minwax Jacobean? 1 coat. I then picked up the Espresso General Finishes and did a test piece by itself. I had some left over on the rag so I went over the Jacobean and it looked good. Did one more coat and we have a winner.

I will post some pics over the weekend. Going with Jacobean Minwax 1 coat then 2 coats Espresso General with their satin clear. The bookcase is near a window so the added protection of the clear will keep me from watching all the time.

Thanks


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