# Best Manual Mitre saw?



## amateur77

I want to purchase a good quality manual mitre saw that is actually a good quality tool and can produce excellent results- it will be used for trim work mostly but also for some regular mitre saw usage when I will be working away from power outlet. 
I currently got a nobex champion 180 which supposedly is the top-of-the-range-stuff ,and quite expensive as well. I bought it because it got good reviews and people were suggesting it- but it's one of the worst quality tools I have ever bought and I regret that purchase everytime I use that tool. ( stuff that has already broken on it- 2x handles/one guide/both clamps/support piece )+ It doesn't cuts anywhere near square so it's only good for very rough cutting which defeats its purpose. Very good ideas - but very bad execution on that tool!

I don't mind buying something vintage &chunky and restoring if needed but I'm after a real quality tool as I really like this kind of tool and I'm using it quite frequently,the nobex will go straight to dump after I get something better - so I don't want another saw from that manufacturer.


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## Johnny7

You'll get various opinions here (much like Ford vs Chevy) split between Millers Falls and Stanley. I'm partial to the latter, myself.

But, if you want an education, go HERE and start reading


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## theoldfart

And I'll take the former .

7 is correct, most of the vintage ones will work well. Read the thread, there is a lot of information, experience and of course opinions.


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## dhazelton

The saw you have gets great reviews and on Amazon it's "Guaranteed accuracy to 0.08 degrees." Something must be amiss with it. Did you have it from new? Was it ever dropped or damaged? Maybe it can be sorted out - $200ish new is not a cheap tool.

Maybe you can go to Amazon and post a question to the owners who give it a 5 star review.


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## gargey

No offense, but you probably suck at using the tool. I have a Nobex Champion 180 and use it to get flawless, exact cuts all the time.

How on earth did you manage to break "2x handles/one guide/both clamps/support piece"???

You must have been operating it like a Gorilla.

Helpful hint #1: I did buy a few different blades, including an ultrafine (which I have not yet used), and the japanese style blade that cuts much quicker than the standard blade, and still leaves a surface that looks damn near handplaned.

Helpful hint #2: I sunk threaded inserts into my workbench, and screw the saw down before I use it, which totally completely immobilizes it. Boards are very securely clamped with multiple clamps before I saw them.

Helpful hint #3: Learn how to use a handsaw. This is not an insult, there is a lot of technique to it and it takes some practice. Using a miterbox doesn't cancel it out.


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## RonAylor1760

I'm partial to the* AylorMade Miterblock 2000 ™ *myself … perfect miters all the time!










... LOL!


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## amateur77

> No offense, but you probably suck at using the tool. I have a Nobex Champion 180 and use it to get flawless, exact cuts all the time.
> 
> How on earth did you manage to break "2x handles/one guide/both clamps/support piece"???
> 
> You must have been operating it like a Gorilla.
> 
> Helpful hint #1: I did buy a few different blades, including an ultrafine (which I have not yet used), and the japanese style blade that cuts much quicker than the standard blade, and still leaves a surface that looks damn near handplaned.
> 
> Helpful hint #2: I sunk threaded inserts into my workbench, and screw the saw down before I use it, which totally completely immobilizes it. Boards are very securely clamped with multiple clamps before I saw them.
> 
> Helpful hint #3: Learn how to use a handsaw. This is not an insult, there is a lot of technique to it and it takes some practice. Using a miterbox doesn t cancel it out.
> 
> - gargey


You are very much welcome to have a go with mine  Either you have only used it once or twice or are only cutting some small sticks with it or…mine was a turd from a factory… either way those handles are made out of cheese and you can see almost everyone complaining about that tool because of the terrible handles + there are so many other things where they have just cut corners and tried to save money when making it, so yeah….

I screw it down as well when using it as you can't use it really any other way.


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## amateur77

> The saw you have gets great reviews and on Amazon it s "Guaranteed accuracy to 0.08 degrees." Something must be amiss with it. Did you have it from new? Was it ever dropped or damaged? Maybe it can be sorted out - $200ish new is not a cheap tool.
> 
> Maybe you can go to Amazon and post a question to the owners who give it a 5 star review.
> 
> - dhazelton


Well I have taken mine apart completely 2times ,greased it up and wasted quite a lot of time with it to find a fault why it doesn't cuts straight… I just don't see anything wrong with it… except the sub-par build quality all over on it which probably explains why. Over $200 for a such a simple tool is an insane amount and that's the thing, you would expect quality product for that sort of money but it's not really the case sadly 

I don't really want to ramble around and whine anymore how ******************** the nobex is, but just want to find something better and more quality


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## Loren

You might want to start with something like
a Stanley no. 150. You can use a variety
of back saws in it. A fine modern back saw
may make your sawing happy.

In terms of perfecting miters you may
want to investigate miter trimmers, miter
jacks and shooting boards.


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## Johnny7

> And I ll take the former .
> 
> 7 is correct, most of the vintage ones will work well. Read the thread, there is a lot of information, experience and of course opinions.
> 
> - theoldfart


Kevin-I thought for sure you were going to bring up Goodell-Pratt boxes!


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## theoldfart

I thought I'd keep it simple.

Millers Falls = Langdon or Langdon improved or New Langdon improved or Goodell Bros or Goodell Mfg or Goodell Pratt or Millers Falls ad nauseum.

Yes I prefer the Goodell All Steel! But I'm not a collector(mostly).


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## donald_wa

Kevin, I' with you. I only have six at present, but I'll go to one of my Goodell's first. After that it's MF followed by my lone Stanley. I did all the trim work on my son's house with my oldest Goodell.


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## theoldfart

He he, I have a few more than you. I only have two, no three, Stanleys. Two of the three are very early collectible ones, before Stanley added model numbers. All the others are from the MF family.


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## gargey

> You are very much welcome to have a go with mine  Either you have only used it once or twice or are only cutting some small sticks with it or…
> 
> either way those handles are made out of cheese and you can see almost everyone complaining about that tool because of the terrible handles


I've used it hundreds of times to cut boards large and small, FYI. It is my principal crosscutting saw.

I agree it would be nice if the saw came with a better handle. I tightened it once soon after assembly and haven't had to since.

FWIW, problems with the handle seem to confirm my suspicion that you're putting way too much torque on the thing. All types of handsawing (miter box or not) benefit from smooth sawing and letting the blade do the work.

Best of luck with your future miter box.


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## OleGrump

At the risk of tar and feathers, I'll say that I have been quite happy with a vintage Craftsman miter box that I picked up a few years ago at a yard sale for ten bucks. Of course, we all know that "Craftsman" tools were actually made by "name" companies for Sears. BTW, The backsaw for the miter box cost just under $30, so the total cost was pretty reasonable. That being said, and admittedly being a "tool-a-holic", I keep my eyes open for other good miter boxes which may come my way…..
Related topic. How do y'all support the stock you're sawing in the miter box? I spent TOO much time dreaming up and drawing ALL kinds of contraptions which would allow me support stock to be sawn in either my power miter saw OR the manual box. Finally, the K.I.S.S. system won out, and I made a pair of wooden puppets which clamp onto saw horses, and mounted the respective saws on wood of varying thicknesses which will keep their beds level with the puppets, while the saws are clamped in a Workmate. Space saving aside, I can place the saw horses either both on one side for sawing long stock, on one on each side like a "chop saw" stand.


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## theoldfart

Grump, I think Millers Falls made some of the C'man boxes.


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## OleGrump

Thank you for the information! I'll have to do a little on-line research when I get the chance. (When…???) 
I know when I found it at a yard sale about a mile from my house, I picked it up and carried it around while I was looking at the other items. (Naturally, I bough some other tools, too….) One of the features I like is the "saw hanger", which allows you to suspend the saw above the work table until you're ready to cut. Pretty spiffy little gizmo. I just wish I had the side rods….. but, I sure got my money's worth on that deal! Thank you again for the heads-up! 
P.S. I LOVE the words of wisdom at the bottom of your posts. SO true, SO true…...


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## fishntechnishn

I have a Langdon Improved New Mitre box with the correct Disston Saw.
Any wild guesses what it would be worth? 
I have my Grandfather Millers Fall All Steel Mitre Box complete with the wire tagged warning and instructions.
The Langdon really just sits there!!
Haviong issues posting photos…Total Newby at this!
Mike


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## theoldfart

Mike, value on both of your mitre boxes is subjective and is dependent on condition and completeness. When I upload pics I use a J Peg format.

I have both the New Langdon improved and the Goodell All Steel. The All Steels are my daily user boxes, primarily the 5".

When you post pics the "Collective" will opine!

Also spend some time browsing the Mitre Box of Your Dreams thread, a lot of information there.


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## AGolden

> No offense, but you probably suck at using the tool. I have a Nobex Champion 180 and use it to get flawless, exact cuts all the time.
> 
> How on earth did you manage to break "2x handles/one guide/both clamps/support piece"???
> 
> You must have been operating it like a Gorilla.
> 
> Helpful hint #1: I did buy a few different blades, including an ultrafine (which I have not yet used), and the japanese style blade that cuts much quicker than the standard blade, and still leaves a surface that looks damn near handplaned.
> 
> Helpful hint #2: I sunk threaded inserts into my workbench, and screw the saw down before I use it, which totally completely immobilizes it. Boards are very securely clamped with multiple clamps before I saw them.
> 
> Helpful hint #3: Learn how to use a handsaw. This is not an insult, there is a lot of technique to it and it takes some practice. Using a miterbox doesn t cancel it out.
> 
> - gargey


The only thing that sucks here is your response. Why would you post here just to be a jerk to this guy? if you have "helpful hints" why not give them without the terrible attitude. Most of us are here to either get help with an issue or talk about a shared passion.

It sounds like you are just here to be a snob, you should be a little more humble since you have only really posted questions yourself and haven't posted any projects to open yourself up to criticism.


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## therealSteveN

> I currently got a nobex champion 180 which supposedly is the top-of-the-range-stuff ,and quite expensive as well. I bought it because it got good reviews and people were suggesting it- but it s one of the worst quality tools I have ever bought and I regret that purchase everytime I use that tool.
> - amateur77


Not sure what your actual issues are with the Nobex, but I am not a fanboi. I think a lot of folks suggest them, because they are of a frame type saw, and use a Jap style blade. I don't think I would pay the freight they ask for them.

The best saw you could get is very similar, but hugely better made, but like a Stradivarius, if you can't play a fiddle worth a hoot, maybe it's not the instrument.

This is arriving at hand sawn nirvana, but they ain't cheap. I sold mine before I knew people were paying this kind of $$$$$ Jeesh, wish I had a truckload of them now. Ulmia 354


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## fishntechnishn

> Mike, value on both of your mitre boxes is subjective and is dependent on condition and completeness. When I upload pics I use a J Peg format.
> 
> .I have both the New Langdon improved and the Goodell All Steel. The All Steels are my daily user boxes, primarily the 5".
> 
> When you post pics the "Collective" will opine!
> 
> Hey theoldphart. Thanks for the advice
> Still having trouble posting photos I am a total Newbie at this stuff. Any chance of you posting a picture or 10 of YOUR Langdon. I want to see how mine compares. Does yours have the curved arms that come out??There is absolutely zilch on the web that I can find.
> Thanks,
> Mike
> 
> Also spend some time browsing the Mitre Box of Your Dreams thread, a lot of information there.
> 
> - theoldfart


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## theoldfart

Fishntechnishn aka Mike, I don't want to hijack this thread so I am posting pics over in the mitre box dream thread. See you there.


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