# Panels for Glue Up Help



## ssevey17 (Sep 9, 2014)

I'm in the process of building a dresser. I jointed and planned a bunch of Cherry. I arranged my boards for glue up and noticed that there were a few places where the boards weren't lined up completely. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm thinking it is due to my short jointer table was causing the boards to be slightly bowed? I'm going to build some table extensions some day in the near future.


----------



## Bonka (Apr 13, 2012)

Did you try clamping them to see it the edges would line up? If you are not seeing much daylight between the edges they may well go together when clamped. Remember dry clamp first. I mean this with all due respect. Also use cauls when you glue up panels. This makes all the difference in the world keeping your panels flat.


----------



## Garbanzolasvegas (Jan 15, 2015)

I don't know what kind of equipment you have but I had the very same issue with a bunch of pine boards for a rustic project. I have a table saw and no planer

You need to TRUE up your stock.

On my project all the boards had a BOW in their width. These were 1 by 6 pine. I had a very true one so I drad nailed them to the true board and trued them up. I HTAE IT


----------



## ssevey17 (Sep 9, 2014)

I have a 6 1/8" craftsman jointer and a grizzly 1022 tablesaw. I haven't tried to dry clamp them yet.


----------



## jdh122 (Sep 8, 2010)

Rather than the length of your jointer bed I would be more inclined to think there was a set-up issue with your jointer. Outfeed table and knives not lined up, or the two tables are not co-planar, maybe.
If the gap is in the middle of the borads you can use clamps to spring it together. If the gaps are on the ends and you pull it together with clamps there's a greater likelihood that the gap will eventually open up again some time down the road.


----------



## RogerInColorado (Jan 18, 2013)

There are lots of good resources out there. Here is one. His section on Joiners is excellent and includes "chapters" on everything from technique to troubleshooting. Read trough the whole section on Joiners before you adjust anything. It will help you be a better troubleshooter and keep you from wasting time.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/tipstrksdir.html#jointer


----------



## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

jdh122 is correct when he says the jointer setup might be the issue. Also how you feed your boards through the jointer.
You really want the edges fitting the full length of your boards, using clamps to pull now will haunt you later on.
Re-joint the boards.


----------



## seniorcitizen (Feb 22, 2015)

Something we must consider on glue ups when there is light between edges to be seen. If there is light in the center but the areas near the ends touch, when we clamp with enough pressure to pull the center together the ends are often over pressured, squeeze most of the glue out and the end result in that area is a dry joint.

Likewise, if there is light near the ends the center becomes over pressured while pulling the ends together and the same scenario near that center is the result. Do your best to see no light.


----------



## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

There are 2 correct ways to do a panel glue up. The first (the one I use) is the stock in jointed perfectly straight. When 2 or more board are put together they fit perfectly with out any gaps/light showing though when held up to a light.

The second is what they call a "sprung" joint. The sprung joint is purposely jointed with a very very small gap in the center of the joint. The gap is so small the can bring the 2 pieces together with hand pressure or a wee bit of clamp pressure. If you need a lot of clamp pressure it's not a good joint.

There is way to much on the sprung joint to type here. You can Google it for a better explanation. There's a ton of good information on the net about plane glue up and sprung joints written by the pros.


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

It can be difficult to joint a board that is convex. I've had the same problem before. I join the side that is concave and then cut off the opposite side at the table saw. If necessary you can then take it back to the jointer to clean up the side, but as long as the joints close up it doesn't need to be jointer smooth.


----------



## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

A ripping sled that follows your table saw fence would help you rip a straight side of your stock. Then you can take it to the joiner, flatten one face, then square up the edge.

Mine works great. there are others. Check You Tube.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/103276
Mike


----------



## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

If I was to tell the " truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth" I have a 10 foot slider and I edged joint most of my edges on the slider after I flatten the face on the jointer.


----------

