# Roubo Workbench



## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

*Musings*

If you've been following my blog you know that we're moving into a new (to us) house this month, and I'm planning to build a Roubo workbench to christen my new workshop space. Well I'm out of town for a few days and have a little evening free time, so I thought I'd jot down my thoughts as to what kind of Roubo I'd like to build (yes, there are many styles of Roubo!):


I plan to have the legs tenoned straight through the top, including the dovetailed outer tenons. It looks cool, but more importantly, fewer mortises to chop!
I'm considering ironwood for the top. It's very heavy, very strong and very durable.
Most people do laminations of 8/4 boards for the top. I'm considering using a few thicker (12/4? 16/4?) boards in the middle, and then on the outside where my mortises will be I'll use 8/4. Fewer laminations in the middle, and fewer mortises on the outside. It's all about saving time.
I'm not concerned with the legs being square (in shape). I think I'll laminate 4 boards together for the legs. Outermost is dovetailed tenon, then shoulder, then regular tenon, and then another shoulder. This is shown in one of Roubo's illustrations. Whatever the thickness of that is, is what it'll be.
I plan to use a typical leg vise, but I'm still considering angling it (without angling the leg). I have metal and wooden vise hardware but don't know which one I'll use (the wooden one is a $10 eBay find that needs some rehab).
Not sure yet about holdfasts. I got an offer to try out a couple made from crowbars that someone would ship to me (free I think except for shipping?), and I also may try to find a local blacksmith who can make some.
The bench will be about 6' long. That'll fit in a spot that's about 8 1/2' wide. Enough leftover room for planing and crosscutting.
I like the planing stop and plan to have one, but am not a fan of the chamfered top. I'll either find a metal solution or just leave it unchamfered.
No tail or wagon vise.
Almost all the mortises will not be cut, but will exist via gaps in the glueup. The only mortises that I'll need to cut will be in the short stretchers, and perhaps for the parallel guide on the leg vise.

There. Shouldn't be that hard to do, right? This bench won't be much more than just gluing a bunch of boards together!

P.S. How many of you are going to quote that last paragraph back to me in about a month or two? :^)


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Musings*
> 
> If you've been following my blog you know that we're moving into a new (to us) house this month, and I'm planning to build a Roubo workbench to christen my new workshop space. Well I'm out of town for a few days and have a little evening free time, so I thought I'd jot down my thoughts as to what kind of Roubo I'd like to build (yes, there are many styles of Roubo!):
> 
> ...


How hard could it be ,I wonder how many times I've said that. I would say the hardest part is getting the top flat depending on what tools you have. Enjoy


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## skeeter (Apr 2, 2009)

offseid said:


> *Musings*
> 
> If you've been following my blog you know that we're moving into a new (to us) house this month, and I'm planning to build a Roubo workbench to christen my new workshop space. Well I'm out of town for a few days and have a little evening free time, so I thought I'd jot down my thoughts as to what kind of Roubo I'd like to build (yes, there are many styles of Roubo!):
> 
> ...


i have been thinking about the roubo lately. More specifically the dovetailed tenons. I was wondering if you made the dovetail part on the leg and then matched the angle on the laminated part, it would be easier if you just applied the pin part of the top* after* you made the top. That way you could cut the board for the top in a miter saw. Just a thought. Well if that worked couldn't you also make the top lamination with mortises that are nothing but voids where there is no glue and wood. Im just brainstorming but there seems like there is an easier way to build that huge bench without all the chopping of mortises, just build them in to the top. Am I crazy?


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## skeeter (Apr 2, 2009)

offseid said:


> *Musings*
> 
> If you've been following my blog you know that we're moving into a new (to us) house this month, and I'm planning to build a Roubo workbench to christen my new workshop space. Well I'm out of town for a few days and have a little evening free time, so I thought I'd jot down my thoughts as to what kind of Roubo I'd like to build (yes, there are many styles of Roubo!):
> 
> ...


nevermind i thought i had an original idea, damn


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Musings*
> 
> If you've been following my blog you know that we're moving into a new (to us) house this month, and I'm planning to build a Roubo workbench to christen my new workshop space. Well I'm out of town for a few days and have a little evening free time, so I thought I'd jot down my thoughts as to what kind of Roubo I'd like to build (yes, there are many styles of Roubo!):
> 
> ...


Hey Skeeter
I think old Roy just had a show how to do a climbing dove tail on his bench.


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## kenn (Mar 19, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Musings*
> 
> If you've been following my blog you know that we're moving into a new (to us) house this month, and I'm planning to build a Roubo workbench to christen my new workshop space. Well I'm out of town for a few days and have a little evening free time, so I thought I'd jot down my thoughts as to what kind of Roubo I'd like to build (yes, there are many styles of Roubo!):
> 
> ...


Take a look at some of the other lumberjocks roubo benches, I've used Jon3's especially and it has helped me with some tips & ideas on mine. Good luck, it WILL take longer than expected.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Musings*
> 
> If you've been following my blog you know that we're moving into a new (to us) house this month, and I'm planning to build a Roubo workbench to christen my new workshop space. Well I'm out of town for a few days and have a little evening free time, so I thought I'd jot down my thoughts as to what kind of Roubo I'd like to build (yes, there are many styles of Roubo!):
> 
> ...


The Roubo workbench is a good one.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

offseid said:


> *Musings*
> 
> If you've been following my blog you know that we're moving into a new (to us) house this month, and I'm planning to build a Roubo workbench to christen my new workshop space. Well I'm out of town for a few days and have a little evening free time, so I thought I'd jot down my thoughts as to what kind of Roubo I'd like to build (yes, there are many styles of Roubo!):
> 
> ...


I have a bench on my list, Eric and am considering the Roubo. So I will be following this with interest.


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## kiwi1969 (Dec 22, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Musings*
> 
> If you've been following my blog you know that we're moving into a new (to us) house this month, and I'm planning to build a Roubo workbench to christen my new workshop space. Well I'm out of town for a few days and have a little evening free time, so I thought I'd jot down my thoughts as to what kind of Roubo I'd like to build (yes, there are many styles of Roubo!):
> 
> ...


NOT ANOTHER ROUBO!!!!  check out saint Roy on PBS episodes 2705, 2706 and 2710 should fire you up and you might get what I refered to on your blog.


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Musings*
> 
> If you've been following my blog you know that we're moving into a new (to us) house this month, and I'm planning to build a Roubo workbench to christen my new workshop space. Well I'm out of town for a few days and have a little evening free time, so I thought I'd jot down my thoughts as to what kind of Roubo I'd like to build (yes, there are many styles of Roubo!):
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tips and links guys. Actually, on my blog one person said ironwood would be a bad choice for the top because it is so oily. I don't know anything about wood species so I hadn't considered that…so maybe not ironwood after all.

And yes, skeeter, I don't plan on chopping any mortises in the top, but just leaving voids as you say.

And kiwi: I'm not choosing the Roubo because it's trendy! :^) But it seems such a simple way to work wood, and for someone like me who doesn't use any power tools, it seems a good bench. I've thought and thought of what I might do differently, or what else I might want (or not want), and I really can't think of anything other than the Roubo!


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## TimScoville (Apr 8, 2009)

offseid said:


> *Musings*
> 
> If you've been following my blog you know that we're moving into a new (to us) house this month, and I'm planning to build a Roubo workbench to christen my new workshop space. Well I'm out of town for a few days and have a little evening free time, so I thought I'd jot down my thoughts as to what kind of Roubo I'd like to build (yes, there are many styles of Roubo!):
> 
> ...


Eric,

I has lusted after a decent workbench for some time now. Still haven't gotten around to building one yet. The roubo looks intriguing, but I really like the design of the "new-fangled workbench" featured in Fine Woodworking.

NFWB video

It uses basic pipe clamps and consumable benchtop pieces that can be sacrificed and replaced after abuse. It has capability for holding large objects like a door for planing an edge at the right height. Very functional for me. Not the nice heirloom workbench you see in many of the magazines, but it will be my bench of choice soon, I hope. If I can finish my master bath remodel, window install, lean-to roof replacement, and fence rebuild and escape significant work travel, maybe I can put mine together by September. If I do, I'll share.

Whatever you decide, looking forward to witnessing your adventure.


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## Jon3 (Feb 28, 2007)

offseid said:


> *Musings*
> 
> If you've been following my blog you know that we're moving into a new (to us) house this month, and I'm planning to build a Roubo workbench to christen my new workshop space. Well I'm out of town for a few days and have a little evening free time, so I thought I'd jot down my thoughts as to what kind of Roubo I'd like to build (yes, there are many styles of Roubo!):
> 
> ...


1. Doesn't really change the number of mortises. You DO have to make those mortise walls perfect though!

2. Ironwood can be incredibly pricey. Plan to sharpen your tools a lot.

3. In the long run, the raw stock size and laminations don't seem to make that much difference. The only time this might be useful is when you're trying to do the type of 'automatic tenon' method that Chris Schwarz uses in the Workbenches book, which doesn't seem that relevant to you, given the mention of the traditional roubo top tenons.

4. Don't really understand this. With shrinkage any bench or table can go pyramid on you, but thats no reason to start out that way. Think of the Children! I mean, Think of the Joinery!

5. Not sure what you mean by angle. The traditional leg vice gets angled by the offset on the bottom of the vise. Are you implying that you'd curve the vise body itself?

6. I recommend them. They're so useful. The ones from Joel over at TFWW are both inexpensive and quite good.

7. If you've got the wood, and you've got the space, go for longer. You can always trim back the ends if you find it too big. Benchwise, bigger is almost always better.

8. I skipped the planing stop myself. I just use a dog, since I marched my dogs almost all the way to the end. Maybe I'll add one later, should the dog stop working well. But so far, it hasn't.

9. I must now shake my head. You've no idea what you're missing!

10. This only works if you're guaranteeing that your lumber ends up all dimensioned identically. Which is fine, but 'embrace the extra thickness' is a really really good thing to keep in mind when building a bench. There's a lot to be gained with that extra mass, and a lot less work on your tools when you don't have to plane a board down to 1.25" when it planes out cleanly S4S to 1.75" or 1.9" !

I just built my Roubo. Feel free to click through the blog and see what I ran into =)


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Musings*
> 
> If you've been following my blog you know that we're moving into a new (to us) house this month, and I'm planning to build a Roubo workbench to christen my new workshop space. Well I'm out of town for a few days and have a little evening free time, so I thought I'd jot down my thoughts as to what kind of Roubo I'd like to build (yes, there are many styles of Roubo!):
> 
> ...


Eric - I think it's best if you painted that last phrase in BOLD RED on your wall, and look at it everytime you work on the bench… 

I'm working on my bench now as well, and will use several features that the roubo uses (leg vise, wagon vise) but still go with a 'traditional european' style legs (for most part -except for the leg vise) and a 2" thick top as this is what I have to work with. my point being - it's one thing to think it'll be easy to chop some wood and glue it together - but a whole other story when you actually have to make it fit - just like any other woodworking project. finessing is the name of the game - so might as well come prepared to the table, then get it in your face.

waiting to see your progress. it's a good bench choice.


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Musings*
> 
> If you've been following my blog you know that we're moving into a new (to us) house this month, and I'm planning to build a Roubo workbench to christen my new workshop space. Well I'm out of town for a few days and have a little evening free time, so I thought I'd jot down my thoughts as to what kind of Roubo I'd like to build (yes, there are many styles of Roubo!):
> 
> ...


Jon, wow, thanks for the point-by-point critique! Love it! My comments:

1. I know it's the same number of mortises, but it's fewer to CHOP. Without any mortise chisels, I'll take all the help I can get! It's fewer to chop because I'm just going to leave gaps in the glue-up for the leg tenons. I know it'll be tricky to keep it square when gluing up, but I'd rather deal with that than chopping those 2×6(ish) 4" deep mortises.
2. I've changed my mind. Ironwood is apparently really oily as well, so I'll stick with the kapur wood that is so abundant here.
3. 
4. I don't mean that the legs won't be square to the top, I just meant I don't care if the legs are a perfect 6" by 6". In my glueup, if it's 6" by 4.5" I'm okay with that. But square to the top - absolutely!
5. What I mean is that maybe I'd have the leg canted towards the middle at - oh I dunno - a 10-20 degree angle. The parallel guide at the bottom would be maybe on the outside of the leg. This would allow for a greater clamping area since the screw would be further out of the way of the top of the jaw. I'm not sure I'll do this, but am just mulling it over.
6. 
7. I don't think I'll have the space. Like I said, I have 8 1/2 feet of space, and I need to leave room for plane run-off. But hmm…maybe I'll go ahead and try to add another foot. See how it goes. If I keep bonking the cabinet, I'll cut off 6" and reassess. Thanks for the encouragment.
8. 
9. I was persuaded to forgo the tail/wagon vise after reading what Ian Kirby said about the planing stop. I really don't see the need to pinch a piece in between dogs for planing when the plane will push the board only in one direction. Is there any other reason I need a tail vise? Convince me!
10. Thanks - I'll browse through your postings and check it out. Thanks for all your comments Jon!

PurpLev: I know, I need to keep it real. At least I'm wide open about it here whether I'm feeling cocky or humiliated!


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

*More Roubo Musings (and Questions)*

There was (and still is) a book called The Inner Game of Tennis, and while I never read it, I remember one of the claims the book made. The claim was that the more one thought about playing tennis (and playing it well), the better one played tennis in real life. The parallels have been drawn in many other sports and indeed, in many other facets of life. So why not woodworking? I am convinced that my workbench will be far better, and the construction far smoother, because of my ruminations. With that, here are my latest thoughts, with *questions in bold face*:


I think I need to build a bowsaw or frame saw before starting my bench. I think that will be a much better way of cutting the legs (and later, the benchtop) to size. My ryoba is great, but is so thin it could easily wander while cutting a 6" square leg, or a 2'-wide benchtop.
I'm not sure in what order people build benches, but I get the idea that it's better to build the base and then the top. For me, I'll have to do a little of each. The center of my bench will be made up of the the thickest stock I can find (probably only 3" or 4" laminated to about 12" total). I'll have to see what that total thickness is before figuring out how long my short stretchers will be. So here's what I'll do: First I'll build the legs, then I'll laminate the thick stock for the middle, then I'll build the stretchers, and lastly I'll laminate the three outer boards (8/4) on each side of the top (with mortises for the leg tenons).
*Where should I position the legs on a 6' bench?* Should I allow 6 inches of free space on each end? Or 1 foot? Or other?
*Do I need to add anything to my F-style clamps? *They only have smallish pads unlike parallel clamps. Will they be sufficient for laminating my 8/4 stock for the top, or for the 12/4 stock for the legs? Or do I need to use cross pieces to better distribute the clamping pressure?

I hope to buy all the lumber this week!


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

*Cold Feet*

So I had my order all lined up: 123 board feet of kapur wood. But I couldn't pull the trigger. Why? The price. The total cost of the lumber needed for my workbench would have been $212. Maybe that's not a lot; I don't know what lumber costs are like where you are. But it's about $50 more than I expected to have to pay, and in our world, $50 is a lot of money.

While I was there, I did find out that they have four different kinds of wood: nyatoh, selangan batu, kapur and "oti". This oti was the cheapest by far. In fact, if I selected this wood for my workbench, the total cost would have been $120.

When I inquired about this oti, I learned that it is in fact "O.T." which stands for "other timber." I tried to learn what this meant - is it different species of wood all lumped together? All I could learn is that some of the boards are light in color while others are dark or red; some boards are harder while others are softer.

So here's my question for you experienced woodworkers and armchair wood jockeys. Do you think I'd be okay using this "O.T." wood for my workbench? I'm thinking that since we're in Malaysia, most if not all of the wood here is hardwood. And I would be able to choose the individual boards. And they still would plane it down for me so it's all of a uniform thickness.

I don't really care if the wood isn't all the same color. This is a workbench, not a work of art (I just heard some of you workbench lovers gasp). And frankly, I don't care if it isn't all the same species. Of course, I might be forgetting to consider something, which is why I pose these questions.

So I'll either go back to the lumber yard this week to select the O.T. boards for the bench, or I'll save up my money a bit longer and then go back for the kapur.


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## kiwi1969 (Dec 22, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Cold Feet*
> 
> So I had my order all lined up: 123 board feet of kapur wood. But I couldn't pull the trigger. Why? The price. The total cost of the lumber needed for my workbench would have been $212. Maybe that's not a lot; I don't know what lumber costs are like where you are. But it's about $50 more than I expected to have to pay, and in our world, $50 is a lot of money.
> 
> ...


Sounds like OT is like our Philippine mahogany. It,s actually related species of luan. I have some here thats quite dense and would probably work ok on a bench top.


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Cold Feet*
> 
> So I had my order all lined up: 123 board feet of kapur wood. But I couldn't pull the trigger. Why? The price. The total cost of the lumber needed for my workbench would have been $212. Maybe that's not a lot; I don't know what lumber costs are like where you are. But it's about $50 more than I expected to have to pay, and in our world, $50 is a lot of money.
> 
> ...


Another option may be to make the top out of kapur wood (since this is your preferred wood) and the base out of oti.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

offseid said:


> *Cold Feet*
> 
> So I had my order all lined up: 123 board feet of kapur wood. But I couldn't pull the trigger. Why? The price. The total cost of the lumber needed for my workbench would have been $212. Maybe that's not a lot; I don't know what lumber costs are like where you are. But it's about $50 more than I expected to have to pay, and in our world, $50 is a lot of money.
> 
> ...


timbos idea sounds good !

use the good stuff where it matters .


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Cold Feet*
> 
> So I had my order all lined up: 123 board feet of kapur wood. But I couldn't pull the trigger. Why? The price. The total cost of the lumber needed for my workbench would have been $212. Maybe that's not a lot; I don't know what lumber costs are like where you are. But it's about $50 more than I expected to have to pay, and in our world, $50 is a lot of money.
> 
> ...


200 isnt really that much here. i feel your pain though my workbench cost me 170 and my next project is going to cost around 220. plus tools. money really adds up fast. but i see no problem in using the oti. like Timbo said a good idea would be oti for the base and kapur for the top. thats probably what i would do in your situation.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Cold Feet*
> 
> So I had my order all lined up: 123 board feet of kapur wood. But I couldn't pull the trigger. Why? The price. The total cost of the lumber needed for my workbench would have been $212. Maybe that's not a lot; I don't know what lumber costs are like where you are. But it's about $50 more than I expected to have to pay, and in our world, $50 is a lot of money.
> 
> ...


Hey Eric
I say use what you can afford . Like you said "this a work bench" So if its softer wood so what as long as it's not balsa. Make it so it works nothing more and nothing less.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

offseid said:


> *Cold Feet*
> 
> So I had my order all lined up: 123 board feet of kapur wood. But I couldn't pull the trigger. Why? The price. The total cost of the lumber needed for my workbench would have been $212. Maybe that's not a lot; I don't know what lumber costs are like where you are. But it's about $50 more than I expected to have to pay, and in our world, $50 is a lot of money.
> 
> ...


I would go with the "Other" you can hand select your boards and glue up a pattern of boards.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Cold Feet*
> 
> So I had my order all lined up: 123 board feet of kapur wood. But I couldn't pull the trigger. Why? The price. The total cost of the lumber needed for my workbench would have been $212. Maybe that's not a lot; I don't know what lumber costs are like where you are. But it's about $50 more than I expected to have to pay, and in our world, $50 is a lot of money.
> 
> ...


Have you ever bought something that was okay.. it worked alright and seemed to fill the bill but passed up the thing that you were really looking at that was maybe 30% more in cost? Later on, you end up thinking…..Gee a a few bucks more and I'd have the real thing I wanted and by this time I'd have absorbed the cost and the extra cost would just be an old memory.

Unless that extra for the wood you wanted is a major issue on your pocket book rather than a "I just can't see paying that for that wood" type of thing. I'd go with the real thing. You said the extra $50 is a big thing in your world. If that's really the case then maybe the extra expense would work on your mind more than the wood you wanted. In that case go with less expensive.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Cold Feet*
> 
> So I had my order all lined up: 123 board feet of kapur wood. But I couldn't pull the trigger. Why? The price. The total cost of the lumber needed for my workbench would have been $212. Maybe that's not a lot; I don't know what lumber costs are like where you are. But it's about $50 more than I expected to have to pay, and in our world, $50 is a lot of money.
> 
> ...


Cant wait to see some pictures!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

offseid said:


> *Cold Feet*
> 
> So I had my order all lined up: 123 board feet of kapur wood. But I couldn't pull the trigger. Why? The price. The total cost of the lumber needed for my workbench would have been $212. Maybe that's not a lot; I don't know what lumber costs are like where you are. But it's about $50 more than I expected to have to pay, and in our world, $50 is a lot of money.
> 
> ...


Eric ,there is an alternative workbench that is very inexpensive to make, simple, effective, extremely flexible and doesn't take hardly and room when not in use.

What I'm talking about is two individual beams built like torsion boxes and supported by small benches built to a height that is appropriate for you when supporting the beams. The beams can be sized for whatever fits your needs, but a suggestion would be 8ft long, 8" wide and 5" high. To keep them light the frames can be made of plywood and topped with a melamine platter on one side and whatever you desire on the other side as a bench top.

The advantage to this system is that you can spread the beams to fit the size of your project and clamp from the center between the beams or a thousand other ways. I have these in my workshop. Mine slide on runners mounted mounted to the wall because I have limited space. You can see it in the sketchup drawings in my workshop if you go to my home page. They do exist and I have been using them for awhile now and they are really great. I haven't got around to photos yet, but they are coming soon. I also have a very good Swedish cabinetmakers bench. So I have enough experience to make a comparison of both types.

There is a real good article in Fine Woodworking magazine on this project titled "Forget what you know about workbenches" in the Dec. Tools and Shops issue.


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## Tangle (Jul 21, 2007)

offseid said:


> *Cold Feet*
> 
> So I had my order all lined up: 123 board feet of kapur wood. But I couldn't pull the trigger. Why? The price. The total cost of the lumber needed for my workbench would have been $212. Maybe that's not a lot; I don't know what lumber costs are like where you are. But it's about $50 more than I expected to have to pay, and in our world, $50 is a lot of money.
> 
> ...


My last bench had two layers of particle board and one of Chinese poplar ply. The rest was pine. It's inmy projects and now in then shop of the guy who bought my shop. I've worked on a door on sawhorses. Like you said,"It's work bench."


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

offseid said:


> *Cold Feet*
> 
> So I had my order all lined up: 123 board feet of kapur wood. But I couldn't pull the trigger. Why? The price. The total cost of the lumber needed for my workbench would have been $212. Maybe that's not a lot; I don't know what lumber costs are like where you are. But it's about $50 more than I expected to have to pay, and in our world, $50 is a lot of money.
> 
> ...


Isn't Oti that guy on here that puts up all the funny internet pictures?


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## hokieman (Feb 14, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Cold Feet*
> 
> So I had my order all lined up: 123 board feet of kapur wood. But I couldn't pull the trigger. Why? The price. The total cost of the lumber needed for my workbench would have been $212. Maybe that's not a lot; I don't know what lumber costs are like where you are. But it's about $50 more than I expected to have to pay, and in our world, $50 is a lot of money.
> 
> ...


I did something like Timbo suggests. My bench is maple the base is ash. Almost as heavy and it was a lot cheaper. Just make sure the oti is as heavy as you want the bench to be quite stable and heavy.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Cold Feet*
> 
> So I had my order all lined up: 123 board feet of kapur wood. But I couldn't pull the trigger. Why? The price. The total cost of the lumber needed for my workbench would have been $212. Maybe that's not a lot; I don't know what lumber costs are like where you are. But it's about $50 more than I expected to have to pay, and in our world, $50 is a lot of money.
> 
> ...


Eric, to start off - this IS just a workbench - BUT. as such, it should provide you with that you need it to do. you work with chisels, and other handtools - so you want the bench to be stout and not move around as you pound and push. you also don't want the top to get chipped off, and dented as you pound those chisels on it (accidents do happen - so you'd want the top to be as hard as possible to minimize the damage it'll sustain).

I'm pretty sure you're familiar with Chris Schwartzs philosophies and ideas about workbenches, and they all are valid - the different woods and their properties as it relates to a workbench. do your homework, and find out what this O.T. lumber properties are - if it fits the bill - you've got yourself a winner - and if not, ~$200 for a workbench that will serve you right as not too bad (sure, it'd be nice if it was $20… but consider that commercial benches that are not as versatile as the roubo can cost as much as $2K).

you can always use the cheaper lumber for the base -thats what I'm doing (and many others) as it only needs to support the top, and doesnt take any direct beatings.


----------



## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Cold Feet*
> 
> So I had my order all lined up: 123 board feet of kapur wood. But I couldn't pull the trigger. Why? The price. The total cost of the lumber needed for my workbench would have been $212. Maybe that's not a lot; I don't know what lumber costs are like where you are. But it's about $50 more than I expected to have to pay, and in our world, $50 is a lot of money.
> 
> ...


I really appreciate everyone's comments. Thank you.

After taking it all in, I think I'll take a good look at this O.T. wood. If it seems good, I'll use it for the whole bench. If it seems just so-so, I'll use it for the base and use kapur for the top.

I'm guessing that the guys who are actually out there in the yard would know more about the wood than the lady running the figures for me in the office. Not because she's a lady…but just because she's office staff.

More to follow!


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

*Which Vise Do I Nurse in My Bosom?*

Bear with me. It'll make sense eventually.

I've got two vise screws. One was generously donated by a "homeboy" from the Porch, Bill Taggart, when I visited his place a couple few years ago. The other was a $10 eBay purchase. I'm trying to decide which one to use in my leg vise. Allow me to present the two candidates, and then leave your verdict in the comments below.

*Candidate A* is a standard metal vise screw. I dunno, looks like about an inch or so thick, and the screw itself is about 12" long. The nut might look a little odd to you because it was originally on a plate that was intended to mount to the underside of the bench. Bill Taggart hacksawed it off for me since I was going to mount it into the leg instead. I figured I'd just drill a hole in the leg to receive the nut, and then do a little chiseling to make room for the plate remnant.

*Pros:* Metal is strong. I shouldn't have any problems with vise strength.
*Cons:* The screw is pretty short. Taking into account a 6" leg and a 2" jaw, I'll be limited to clamping stock that is not much more than 4" thick. I suppose I could bury the nut inside the leg during the glueup, which would give me an additional 4" or so, but that would mean if I ever wanted to change vises I'd have to take an axe to the leg to hack the nut out, and then I'd have to build a new leg.



*Candidate B* is an old wooden bench screw (about 2" thick) that I just couldn't pass up for $10 on eBay. This thing is in rough shape. At first glance it might not look too bad:



But pick it up (gingerly, now!) and you see that this is a fixer-upper. First the nut. Outside - ugh. Nasty. But the inside is solid and the threads are in perfect condition:





The screw itself is in great shape. There are one or maybe two places where a small segment of thread is missing, but otherwise it's solid. But the head of the screw…oh my:



*Pros:* The vise jaw would be able to open about 10" or so. The threads are huge and in good shape, so the vise is theoretically very strong.
*Cons: * In order to keep the vise from shedding bits of wood anytime it's handled, I'd have to plane/chisel/sand about 1/2" or maybe more off of the surface of the screw head (I'd likely leave the nut as is). Would that affect in any way the integrity of the vise? There'd be very little shoulder to catch the jaw of the vise, but I suppose if the hole for the screw is exactly the right size, I wouldn't need much of a shoulder, right?

I have now presented the two candidates. For which one would you cast your vote?



P.S. Oh yes. The title of this post. I was looking for a witty title so I went searching for quotes containing the word "vice". The title above came from Thornton Wilder. Below, for your reading pleasure, are more quotes with the word "vice" that almost make sense with the word "vise".

We do not despise all those who have vices, but we despise all those who have not a single virtue. - Francois Duc de la Rochefoucauld
Vices of the time; vices of the man. [Lat., Vitia temporis; vitia hominis.] - Francis Bacon
Times change. The vices of your age are stylish today. - Aristophanes
There is no vice so simple but assumes some mark of virtue on his outward parts. -William Shakespeare
Vices are often habits rather than passions. -Antoine Rivarol
Nurse one vice in your bosom. Give it the attention it deserves and let your virtues spring up modestly around it. Then you'll have the miser who's no liar; and the drunkard who's the benefactor of the whole city. -Thornton Wilder
It has been my experience that folks who have no vices have very few virtues. - Abraham Lincoln


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Which Vise Do I Nurse in My Bosom?*
> 
> Bear with me. It'll make sense eventually.
> 
> ...


looks like the metal vice is a little short for this application. I would naturally go with the wooden one.

the nut shouldnt be much of an issue,as you can embed it in the leg, and not have to worry about it's appearance.

the screw head - how about filling it with epoxy resin and shape it to it's original form? this will keep the size, and integrity of the head. but it will have a mismatched look to it. but then again - it's a heirloom screw.. and should look a little mismatched isnt it?

PS. you could always get a replacement wooden screw later (find same diameter screw, or have one fabricated) if you really need it.


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Which Vise Do I Nurse in My Bosom?*
> 
> Bear with me. It'll make sense eventually.
> 
> ...


Interesting, PurpLev. I have heard of epoxy resin but frankly have no idea what it is. I mean, I know what epoxy is. Wait - is resin just one part of the two-part epoxy? I gotta go do some googling…but your idea sounds great because it would let me keep the original size (and presumably strength) of the larger-sized head.


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## Jon3 (Feb 28, 2007)

offseid said:


> *Which Vise Do I Nurse in My Bosom?*
> 
> Bear with me. It'll make sense eventually.
> 
> ...


As PurpLev mentioned, the metal vise seems short, Especially when you consider a thick chop, plus the recessed support you'll need for that tiny nut. The wood screw looks cool, but seems to be well on its way to becoming fertilizer.

I'd kick in the $39.95 and get one from Lee Valley.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Which Vise Do I Nurse in My Bosom?*
> 
> Bear with me. It'll make sense eventually.
> 
> ...


I'm actually ordering 2 (might wait on the 3rd one for now) of the screws Jon3 posted. they are 1 1/8" in diameter, long (21" total length, 17" capacity (minus jaw/leg)) and are not too expensive.

Edit: Epoxy Resin is the actual Epoxy substance - once mixed with the hardener, you get the epoxy. which is what I meant. basically epoxy glue.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Which Vise Do I Nurse in My Bosom?*
> 
> Bear with me. It'll make sense eventually.
> 
> ...


This year I need to build a workbench.I have all the hardware minus wood which I need bech screws and quite a few woodworking vises and one of them I got new four years ago a wilton anyway love what your doing keep up the good work.Alistair


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Which Vise Do I Nurse in My Bosom?*
> 
> Bear with me. It'll make sense eventually.
> 
> ...


This is going to be a fun workbench! I also need to build with a new workbench with vises.


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## kiwi1969 (Dec 22, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Which Vise Do I Nurse in My Bosom?*
> 
> Bear with me. It'll make sense eventually.
> 
> ...


Can I be blunt. Gotta say neither of those looks like a winner to me. The fact that you are asking the question means you actually know the answer as well, both of these look like a comprimise which will catch you out sooner or later. Do you have "hole in the wall" enginering workshops where you are? They should be able to make one up for not much money. If you,re going to spend time and money on such a project then don,t skimp on one of the most important elements.


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## JuniorJoiner (Dec 24, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Which Vise Do I Nurse in My Bosom?*
> 
> Bear with me. It'll make sense eventually.
> 
> ...


I have to agree with kiwi, neither screw will be anything more than a compromise. I suggest ordering one, or perhaps making your own. a bench is a huge investment of wood and time, cutting corners will give you regret in the future.
best of luck


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## kenn (Mar 19, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Which Vise Do I Nurse in My Bosom?*
> 
> Bear with me. It'll make sense eventually.
> 
> ...


Listen to these guys and put the money down for something like the Lee Valley screw. Your time and effort are your biggest investment and both those screws have flaws that will cause problems. Jon3, Kiwi and Jr are giving you good advice. The key to a great bench is a flat, stable top and strong vises in the right places. Good luck with yor decision.


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Which Vise Do I Nurse in My Bosom?*
> 
> Bear with me. It'll make sense eventually.
> 
> ...


Sweet, thanks for all your comments. I am overwhelmed with how underwhelmed you all are with my two options! I feel like someone who wasn't really paying attention when crossing the street and then getting brought back to earth with the sound of a huge semi blaring its horn at me. So, uh, I guess that makes you all the boy scout who pushes me out of the way of danger.

Your medal of honor is on its way.


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Which Vise Do I Nurse in My Bosom?*
> 
> Bear with me. It'll make sense eventually.
> 
> ...


Oh…and kiwi1969 - yes, there are tons of places like that here. Do they have tap and die sets to make screws? Hmm, I suppose so but I never thought about it. I'll check! I already have in mind to go to one of them to try to get a St. Peter's Cross made for my leg vise.


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## DoctorDan (Feb 22, 2010)

offseid said:


> *Which Vise Do I Nurse in My Bosom?*
> 
> Bear with me. It'll make sense eventually.
> 
> ...


wow they are some interesting looking vices. 
i'm keen to see how it works out.


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## sphere (Feb 6, 2010)

offseid said:


> *Which Vise Do I Nurse in My Bosom?*
> 
> Bear with me. It'll make sense eventually.
> 
> ...


Use Abatron liquid wood repair and yer all set, then use the wood epox ( like a bondo but better) or what I like is Fiberglass liquid resin ( and hardner) it's for auto body or boats..good stuff to strengthen or reinforce old rotted / missing wood.


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

*And Still More Roubo Musings*

A year ago I mused about my future Roubo workbench. A month after that I mused some more. Now that I'm planning my lumber purchase (for real this time!), I want to update my musings with a third post.


The most significant change to my plans is that I'm planning on using 4/4 for the top, if not for the entire bench. The Schwarz mentioned that this is a good solution for a hand tools-only woodworker since the boards will require less work prior to glue-up. I'm all for less work. It's also better suited to my F-clamps, which aren't really powerhouse clamps for serious glue-ups.
The bench will be 7' long - a foot longer than previously planned. The space I have for the bench is 8' 6", so a 7' bench should leave enough room for working the wagon vise. Which brings me to modification #3:
The bench will have a wagon vise! I had originally decided against it, but you all have made a believer out of me. It's in.
I count 18 mortises in the bench (8 on top for leg tenons, 8 on legs for stretchers, 1 for wagon vise and 1 for planing stop), and I'm still planning on creating all but four of them (short stretchers) with voids in the glueup. I know it could be problematic, but I really can't see why it couldn't work. I could insert the matching tenon into the void during glue-up and remove it once the clamps are all in place. Am I missing something? Or is this doable? It will save so much time if I can get it right.
Likewise, I will create the slots for the planing stop, for the wagon vise chop and the hole for the wagon vise screw by creating voids. Especially for the screw hole, which typically involves drilling through end grain, this will be a big time saver.

Well, I've finally bought The Schwarz's workbench book - a friend was coming over here from Canada so I had one shipped to him real quick. Arrives tonight! So I'm sure I'll have more musings, but I am seriously looking forward to finally digging in to that book.

Appreciate any comments y'all might have!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

offseid said:


> *And Still More Roubo Musings*
> 
> A year ago I mused about my future Roubo workbench. A month after that I mused some more. Now that I'm planning my lumber purchase (for real this time!), I want to update my musings with a third post.
> 
> ...


sounds like the plan is coming together. would love to see it if you have anything sketched up (by hand or not). as for the top - I would really suggest going with as thick of material as you can, although 4/4 would be good enough - you can always add weight to the bench in the form of cabinets/storage on the stretchers to weight it down.

I wouldn't worry about your F-clamps. contrary to what so many believe - if the boards are jointed properly and are flat, the clamps are really just holding the boards in the glue up together, and should not be compressing the wood = very little pressure required.

good luck on the journey, and enjoy the book!


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## Rileysdad (Jun 4, 2009)

offseid said:


> *And Still More Roubo Musings*
> 
> A year ago I mused about my future Roubo workbench. A month after that I mused some more. Now that I'm planning my lumber purchase (for real this time!), I want to update my musings with a third post.
> 
> ...


You'll love the Schwarz book. Keep it in your bathroom for a month before you do anything. Consult it daily. Take a look at Benchcrafted.com. They make the best wagon vice and leg vice I've seen.

Good News: Your idea for forming the mortises and tenons in the glue-up are recommended in the book.

Looking forward to the pictures.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

offseid said:


> *And Still More Roubo Musings*
> 
> A year ago I mused about my future Roubo workbench. A month after that I mused some more. Now that I'm planning my lumber purchase (for real this time!), I want to update my musings with a third post.
> 
> ...


Sounds like fun.


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

offseid said:


> *And Still More Roubo Musings*
> 
> A year ago I mused about my future Roubo workbench. A month after that I mused some more. Now that I'm planning my lumber purchase (for real this time!), I want to update my musings with a third post.
> 
> ...


Lev: I do plan on doing up a Sketchup model of it. Will likely just tweak The Schwarz's since he's already done one. That way I don't have to be a total Sketchup geek to have one that looks nice. As for the thickness, well the top will be at least 4" wide, if not more, so even if it's 4/4 the top will have plenty of mass. I'm not worried about the weight.

Rileysdad: I agree that Benchcrafted has some of the finest bench hardware I've ever seen. Unfortunately the price is insanely prohibitive. I could build two Roubos for the price of one Benchcrafted tail vise! And awesome, my "void mortise" plan is feasible!!! You just made my day.


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

*You Got Your Moxon in My Roubo! You Got Your Roubo in My Moxon!*

So I've received and devoured Chris Schwarz's Workbenches book. I am pleased to find that I have thought so thoroughly about my bench that I have only had to make a few minor mental adjustments to my plans.

I've also been following with great interest the thickening plot regarding Schwarz's Moxonization of his Roubo. It started with him piercing his crochet (ouch!). Where will it end?

As I've surfed the web trying to see where Chris is going with this, since it may influence my own plans, I've stumbled across a couple of others who are already there. Stephen Shepherd shows Moxon's twin-screw vise and its excellent potential for dovetailing. Others have chimed in on this discussion; Gary Roberts has provided some linkage so you can follow who's saying what. In short, this vise appears to be a bench accessory rather than an integral part of the bench. You can have it mounted to the front of the bench (but no one seems to know how that was done); alternatively, you can remove the whole assembly, clamp the rear jaw to the bench top and work a bit higher.

Since I enjoy dovetailing and plan to do a lot of it, I had already been thinking of making some sort of benchtop dovetail station. Moxon's arrangement seems to meet my requirements: something higher than the 33" benchtop; excellent clamping surface; easily removable. I might even tap the front of the workbench itself so I would have the option of screwing the front jaw directly onto the workbench. I suppose that would help for planing long boards on edge; I wouldn't even really need to have the vise exert much pressure on the board as it would be simply sitting on the screws.

I'm not sure where I'd mount the vise at this point (if I tapped holes in the front of the bench), or how wide the jaws should be. In the engravings and drawings, the vise is located on the right front of the bench, but that could get in the way of my wagon vise. I'm considering centering it on my bench. And as to width, what's the widest you would need for dovetailing - 24"?

Of course, all this talk of proper size of the vise is only necessary if you're mounting it on the front of the bench. If you are merely clamping it to the benchtop, you can have a vise of any width. If the current one is too big or too small, you can just tap a couple of new holes in a new piece of wood, drill a couple of holes in what would be the front jaw, and you're in business! If I end up doing this, I think I will also insert dowels into the base of the rear jaw which would tenon into the dog holes to support the vise, perhaps even rendering a clamp or holdfast unnecessary.

My apologies for the abundance of text with the absence of graphics. I don't want to infringe on anyone's copyright by showing Moxon's stuff here, and I can't run Sketchup on my computer (Linux) so I just have to hope that my descriptions work well with the pictures shown on the links above!


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

*Could It Be?*

I recently found out that the husband of a woman in our church runs a timber export business. I inquired about possibly getting my workbench lumber from him and she told me to fax her the specs of what I want (she does admin or accounting or something).

So tomorrow morning I'm going out with her to the lumberyard to check out the wood and to get an estimate. Could it be that I'll walk out of there with a few hundred pounds of tropical hardwood? Or maybe I'll put it in the back of a truck and drive it out. Easier on the back.

I was hoping to tinker with Chris Schwarz's Roubo on Sketchup tonight to see if there's anything I'm not thinking of, but my Sketchup skills stink! I would probably do better "building" a bench from scratch on there. In the meantime, I'll work with pencil and paper. I have made a few modifications even since last week's post, likely influenced by my "discovery" of Gary Roberts, Stephen Shepherd, Peter Follansbee and Jennie Alexander. It's a slippery slope down into the 17th century.

Hope to have good news - and pics - soon.


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## woodworm (Jul 27, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Could It Be?*
> 
> I recently found out that the husband of a woman in our church runs a timber export business. I inquired about possibly getting my workbench lumber from him and she told me to fax her the specs of what I want (she does admin or accounting or something).
> 
> ...


Hey Eric, to me, it looks like you already saw light at the end of tunnel. I hope you'll find suitable wood (species & dimension) for your workbench. Hope for the best outcome!
By the way which part of KK you now live? - (if you are still there).


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Could It Be?*
> 
> I recently found out that the husband of a woman in our church runs a timber export business. I inquired about possibly getting my workbench lumber from him and she told me to fax her the specs of what I want (she does admin or accounting or something).
> 
> ...


Hi Masrol, thanks! It looks like I'll probably be going with O.T. (other timber) as it's so much cheaper than nyatoh or the other nice species here. I'll take a look at the O.T. to make sure it's good quality. Otherwise, I'll buy the "nice stuff" for the benchtop and O.T. for the legs and stretchers.

And we're in the Luyang area, if you know where that is.


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## woodworm (Jul 27, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Could It Be?*
> 
> I recently found out that the husband of a woman in our church runs a timber export business. I inquired about possibly getting my workbench lumber from him and she told me to fax her the specs of what I want (she does admin or accounting or something).
> 
> ...


OK Eric, take your time selecting the best available lumber. Get advice from the man works there. Avoid using lumber with alot of oil/tanin/gum deposits in it - I believe it is durable, but sanding it smooth is the problem. I made my workbench top from mixed lumber and some were very oily (gummy) - I did not know until I sanded it. I wish you good luck.

I know where Luyang is, considered very near to the KK town. My nephew is staying there. I've been there once.


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Could It Be?*
> 
> I recently found out that the husband of a woman in our church runs a timber export business. I inquired about possibly getting my workbench lumber from him and she told me to fax her the specs of what I want (she does admin or accounting or something).
> 
> ...


Hi Masrol, thanks! I went to the lumberyard today and it looks like I am going to get a pile of their reject lumber - I think for free! So once they have together more or less what I'm looking for, I will go visit and inspect the lumber. I couldn't really get them to tell me WHY the lumber might be rejected, so I'm not sure if I will also reject it or not. But thanks for the tip about the oily or gummy wood. I think most of the reject lumber is seraya - do you know it?


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

*Sketch of Bench*


(click on the pic for a full-size view)

So here's the bench mostly as I see it. My apologies for the faintness, but I think you get the idea. I forgot to put the crochet on there, so that would naturally be on the front left of the benchtop.

You'll also notice that I have no vises on the bench. I'm not entirely convinced that the bench needs them, although I do plan on making a removable twin-screw vise à la Moxon (not pictured). I had planned on installing a wagon vise, and have the hardware already, but when I included it into the sketch it just looked wrong. It rubbed me the wrong way, I can't say why - maybe all those dogholes? If I regret it, I'll retrofit it like The Schwarz did. I'm still up in the air about the leg vise. I can retrofit that too, although it's a bit harder perhaps.

I also ditched the sliding deadman. Sure, I might need something to support long boards for planing, etc. But I have no [easy] way to make grooves, so installing the sliding deadman would actually be one of the most complex parts of making the bench. And I just don't feel like doing it. If I need something like that later on, I'll hammer two pieces of wood together, with holes drilled in the vertical piece, and bam! - bench slave.

So essentially I've taken most of the design of the Roubo, discarded the Schwarzifications of it (although the leg vise is also Roubo), and added a dash of Moxon.

Tell me what you think!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Sketch of Bench*
> 
> 
> (click on the pic for a full-size view)
> ...


good luck with your bench


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Sketch of Bench*
> 
> 
> (click on the pic for a full-size view)
> ...


I like your approach. Completing your bench in managable stages makes sense in many ways. There is very little that can't be retrofit later (with a little extra work that is).

Please continue with the updates as you progress.


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## jerusalemcarpentress (Feb 8, 2009)

offseid said:


> *Sketch of Bench*
> 
> 
> (click on the pic for a full-size view)
> ...


Wow! Glad to see it's coming along. I recall reading somewhere that Schwarz kind of regretted the crochet, but that might just have been in conjunction with the leg vise.
Your viseless design makes me feel better about my bench being viseless. Cheers! Keep posting!


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Sketch of Bench*
> 
> 
> (click on the pic for a full-size view)
> ...


I wish you the best on your workbench.


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

*Lumber Update*

A couple weeks ago I mentioned that I would be making a visit to my church friend's lumberyard. Here's an update:

This friend of mine is having her warehouse guy look for all the lumber I need from rejected timber. Now I'm not sure what causes something to be rejected. I suppose export-grade stuff would have to be pretty good, so maybe rejected wood is still okay. As long as the wood is straight and not rotten, it should work for a bench, right? Even pinholes would be okay for me, as long as the bugs have moved along. So we'll see. The foreman or whatever he's called is going to give me a buzz when he has it together, so I'll get to inspect it first.

Oh…and did I mention that she's going to give me all this wood *FOR FREE*??? She also told me that this guy could hook me up with all kinds of scrap wood - cutoffs, rejected wood, whatever. She said they normally just burn it.

Hello, my name is Eric, allow me to be of service to you.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Lumber Update*
> 
> A couple weeks ago I mentioned that I would be making a visit to my church friend's lumberyard. Here's an update:
> 
> ...


woah, I think this is the best contact you could have as far as WW goes  I guess you can cross lumber off the list of "hard things to get".

I think rejected lumber would be more towards not meeting up with standards of length and twist more than bug defects - so you should be more than good to go with that!

looking forward to see what you get Eric. good luck!


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## GaryD (Mar 5, 2009)

offseid said:


> *Lumber Update*
> 
> A couple weeks ago I mentioned that I would be making a visit to my church friend's lumberyard. Here's an update:
> 
> ...


nice score!!!!!!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Lumber Update*
> 
> A couple weeks ago I mentioned that I would be making a visit to my church friend's lumberyard. Here's an update:
> 
> ...


Free is always good but to build a long term project with wood that has worm holes ? I would exclude the wood with any kind of infestation in them just to be on the safe side.


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

offseid said:


> *Lumber Update*
> 
> A couple weeks ago I mentioned that I would be making a visit to my church friend's lumberyard. Here's an update:
> 
> ...


Jim, I'm sure that I wouldn't use pinholed wood for actual nice stuff. But for my workbench and workbench accessories, I have no problem with it. Even for nice furniture and projects, there is a lot of wood that never gets looked at - I could use it for that as well.

But I've heard elsewhere that in most cases, pinholed wood is no longer infested and should be fine to use. (Termites are another matter!)


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

*One Man's Trash...*

I went to the lumberyard today to check out the wood for my bench. For those who didn't read my previous post(s), this is lumber that has been rejected by the timber export company for reasons unknown. Well today I learned that part of the reason the lumber is rejected is because it needs to be straight, knot-free, etc. the entire length of the board. When it's not, the whole board is rejected (even though some of it might still be beautiful wood!).

The manager of the yard had apparently been looking here and there for the boards I needed (I told him the dimensions of everything, but said that I would be happy to cut it to length myself). Some of it has been cut to approximate length (with a little extra), while others are still long, ready to be cut into two or three boards. All the boards were well-marked, and the guy told me it's all been kiln-dried. So I suppose that means it's all ready to go once I get it home, huh?

I was worried that the wood would be garbage. I knew that if it was, I would probably still accept it because to not do so would be quite rude to my church friend (who arranged for it all to be given to me for free) and to the manager who went through the trouble to get it for me.

As it turned out, though, the wood in general looks quite nice, as far as I was able to tell. I could see a little cracking here and there, and a rough spot or two on some of the boards. But overall, the boards appear to be in good shape and I think will work well for my bench. The manager even gave me several extra boards of various lengths, so even if some of the boards are unusable, I may be okay with the extras. Worst case scenario I have to go to a different lumberyard to buy a board or two as replacements.

Next step: Early next week the manager and I will take the lumber to a different place for planing (apparently he doesn't prep the wood at all - merely sells it). What do you think - I'd only need to have the faces planed, right? Or should I get it S4S? I'll have to pay for the planing, but what a small price to pay. Click on the pic for a larger view; that's my soon-to-be benchtop there in the foreground!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

offseid said:


> *One Man's Trash...*
> 
> I went to the lumberyard today to check out the wood for my bench. For those who didn't read my previous post(s), this is lumber that has been rejected by the timber export company for reasons unknown. Well today I learned that part of the reason the lumber is rejected is because it needs to be straight, knot-free, etc. the entire length of the board. When it's not, the whole board is rejected (even though some of it might still be beautiful wood!).
> 
> ...


Your talking about that whole stack of wood? you could build six benches with that Wow how nice are they?


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## woodworm (Jul 27, 2008)

offseid said:


> *One Man's Trash...*
> 
> I went to the lumberyard today to check out the wood for my bench. For those who didn't read my previous post(s), this is lumber that has been rejected by the timber export company for reasons unknown. Well today I learned that part of the reason the lumber is rejected is because it needs to be straight, knot-free, etc. the entire length of the board. When it's not, the whole board is rejected (even though some of it might still be beautiful wood!).
> 
> ...


Oh Jim you're scarring me…I guess the stack on the centre. Am I right Eric?.


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## ZeroThreeQuarter (Jan 11, 2010)

offseid said:


> *One Man's Trash...*
> 
> I went to the lumberyard today to check out the wood for my bench. For those who didn't read my previous post(s), this is lumber that has been rejected by the timber export company for reasons unknown. Well today I learned that part of the reason the lumber is rejected is because it needs to be straight, knot-free, etc. the entire length of the board. When it's not, the whole board is rejected (even though some of it might still be beautiful wood!).
> 
> ...


with the money saved on the wood you could invest in a planer and do it yourself..

nice score on the wood, definitely makes me jealous.. keep us posted on this project!


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## skeeter (Apr 2, 2009)

offseid said:


> *One Man's Trash...*
> 
> I went to the lumberyard today to check out the wood for my bench. For those who didn't read my previous post(s), this is lumber that has been rejected by the timber export company for reasons unknown. Well today I learned that part of the reason the lumber is rejected is because it needs to be straight, knot-free, etc. the entire length of the board. When it's not, the whole board is rejected (even though some of it might still be beautiful wood!).
> 
> ...


nice score. get the 2 faces planed. if your building roubo then you are going to have a very thick top all face glued together.


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

offseid said:


> *One Man's Trash...*
> 
> I went to the lumberyard today to check out the wood for my bench. For those who didn't read my previous post(s), this is lumber that has been rejected by the timber export company for reasons unknown. Well today I learned that part of the reason the lumber is rejected is because it needs to be straight, knot-free, etc. the entire length of the board. When it's not, the whole board is rejected (even though some of it might still be beautiful wood!).
> 
> ...


Nice! Do you know what kind of wood it is?


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

offseid said:


> *One Man's Trash...*
> 
> I went to the lumberyard today to check out the wood for my bench. For those who didn't read my previous post(s), this is lumber that has been rejected by the timber export company for reasons unknown. Well today I learned that part of the reason the lumber is rejected is because it needs to be straight, knot-free, etc. the entire length of the board. When it's not, the whole board is rejected (even though some of it might still be beautiful wood!).
> 
> ...


Nice! What kind of wood it is.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

offseid said:


> *One Man's Trash...*
> 
> I went to the lumberyard today to check out the wood for my bench. For those who didn't read my previous post(s), this is lumber that has been rejected by the timber export company for reasons unknown. Well today I learned that part of the reason the lumber is rejected is because it needs to be straight, knot-free, etc. the entire length of the board. When it's not, the whole board is rejected (even though some of it might still be beautiful wood!).
> 
> ...


You don't get that offer every day for free well done I am JEALOUSLY SICK AND HATE YOU.LOL Alistair wish it were mine.


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

offseid said:


> *One Man's Trash...*
> 
> I went to the lumberyard today to check out the wood for my bench. For those who didn't read my previous post(s), this is lumber that has been rejected by the timber export company for reasons unknown. Well today I learned that part of the reason the lumber is rejected is because it needs to be straight, knot-free, etc. the entire length of the board. When it's not, the whole board is rejected (even though some of it might still be beautiful wood!).
> 
> ...


As to the type of wood, it's called seraya - which, from my little searching around, is possibly a type of meranti.

Appreciate the congrats and jealousy!


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

offseid said:


> *One Man's Trash...*
> 
> I went to the lumberyard today to check out the wood for my bench. For those who didn't read my previous post(s), this is lumber that has been rejected by the timber export company for reasons unknown. Well today I learned that part of the reason the lumber is rejected is because it needs to be straight, knot-free, etc. the entire length of the board. When it's not, the whole board is rejected (even though some of it might still be beautiful wood!).
> 
> ...


cool, thanks for the response. I just checked some images online of planes material. boy does it look nice. Good luck. I can't wait to see what you do with it. I hope I run accross some of this stuff some day.


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

offseid said:


> *One Man's Trash...*
> 
> I went to the lumberyard today to check out the wood for my bench. For those who didn't read my previous post(s), this is lumber that has been rejected by the timber export company for reasons unknown. Well today I learned that part of the reason the lumber is rejected is because it needs to be straight, knot-free, etc. the entire length of the board. When it's not, the whole board is rejected (even though some of it might still be beautiful wood!).
> 
> ...


ok you got some amazing wood for the right price. Did a bench get built?
Bump.


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

offseid said:


> *One Man's Trash...*
> 
> I went to the lumberyard today to check out the wood for my bench. For those who didn't read my previous post(s), this is lumber that has been rejected by the timber export company for reasons unknown. Well today I learned that part of the reason the lumber is rejected is because it needs to be straight, knot-free, etc. the entire length of the board. When it's not, the whole board is rejected (even though some of it might still be beautiful wood!).
> 
> ...


I saw, close up, Chris Schwarz's Roubo bench the WIA Conference last October. For his top he obtained a huge slab of cherry. It has a decent crack on one end, but doesn't affect functionality.


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

offseid said:


> *One Man's Trash...*
> 
> I went to the lumberyard today to check out the wood for my bench. For those who didn't read my previous post(s), this is lumber that has been rejected by the timber export company for reasons unknown. Well today I learned that part of the reason the lumber is rejected is because it needs to be straight, knot-free, etc. the entire length of the board. When it's not, the whole board is rejected (even though some of it might still be beautiful wood!).
> 
> ...


Ratchet, it's still in progress. Thanks for the *bump* - I needed that!


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