# Flexing and other issues



## RickRogers7 (Jan 30, 2010)

Good review. I'm on the same page. I like the tool but wish didn't flex. Some times the sliding jaws seem to hang up a little bit. Not a deal breaker but I like it when things work smoothly. That being said, the tool definitely make it quicker to cut a sheet of plywood down to size.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

Frankly I wish I had spent the 40 bucks on something else more useful.


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## Routerisstillmyname (Oct 16, 2008)

Flexing is a major issue with just about all of these types of clamps and guides.


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

I did my research before buying it and E Emersom makes a wide clamp that I bought and unlike the narrower model , this model will not flex.

http://www.amazon.com/Clamp-U-54-54-Inch-Double-T-Track/dp/B0000DYV3U/ref=pd_cp_hi_2


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## MarkColan (Aug 11, 2010)

I would get the double-t-track version of the long fence (for ripping the long way on a 4×8 sheet), but a review on Amazon says it still flexes. I don't doubt that the extra width means the 4' version does not.


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

My emerson is 4 ft but I have an older straight edge clamp that is 102" and when I cut long pieces I brace the center with a piece of wood at a 90 degree angle (like a T) and clamp it. This bracing will eliminate flexing.


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## AuroraWoodworks (Nov 6, 2009)

I went to Rockler.com to look at the clamps. There seems to be two product lines - the A Series and the C Series. I only saw the C Series available online. They describe it as the contractor grade and it has a lower profile than the A Series. They said the jigs are not interchangeable. I would expect the A series to be a bit stiffer than the C Series. Stiff enough? Dunno.

I think cutting on the floor and working from above will reduce the flexing issue.

Has anyone tried spraying the guide bar and the tool sled jigs with sillicone spray? Or am I misunderstanding where the hang up is?


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## TLE (Dec 16, 2008)

I have a clamp similar to this that has two locking positions on the lever. The first position clamps with less pressure and is for application as a cutting guide. The second lever position clamps with greater force and is for actual clamping use. Using the stronger clamping will actually slightly bow the sheet (say 3/4 inch plywood) leaving no positive contact between the aluminum and the wood, so you don't get the benefit of friction between the guide and the wood to help keep the guide from flexing. I find that I get straight cuts with the lighter clamping and flexing problems and curved cuts when I use the stronger clamping.

Tim


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## MarkColan (Aug 11, 2010)

To clarify: the flexing I am speaking of is when you push the saw or router against the guide, to keep it snug, it's quite easy enough that it is no longer straight. And while you can clamp on a scrap to brace it, doing so defeats the ease-of-use that is the key feature of the product, by adding more setup.

@TLE: I have also seen the problem of bowing the wood by tightening it too much.


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## TLE (Dec 16, 2008)

{To clarify: the flexing I am speaking of is when you push the saw or router against the guide, to keep it snug, it's quite easy enough that it is no longer straight. And while you can clamp on a scrap to brace it, doing so defeats the ease-of-use that is the key feature of the product, by adding more setup.}

Mark -

I know what you mean. Mine has less tendency to flex, giving me a crooked cut, if it is tight enough to have lost positive contact with the wood across the span of the cut. My guide is wider but I had the trouble you are describing when I used the tighter clamping.

I do think that using these guides is a bit of a delicate art, though. I think that just as you describe the problem - they will only take a small amount of lateral pressure before curving. I try to control the straightness of my saw guiding keeping only a little pressure against the guide but that finesse gets difficult when you are reaching way out across a big sheet.

I know what you mean when you say that clamping on additional blocking takes away the convenience that you thought you were getting when you bought the thing. I remind myself that at least if I don't beat it up it stays straight and smooth - it won't warp!

Tim


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## MarkColan (Aug 11, 2010)

@CPBarry: It's too late to exchange it; I have had it too long. I think at the time I bought it, the wider version did not exist.

@TimLE: You're right with me on this one.

FWIW: It's disappointing that it isn't all I hoped it would be, but life is like that. I give it three stars, still use it some times, and move on.


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## jsdnnoanybtr (Jan 10, 2010)

I went with this system, table and guides, work great for a home shop.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=2659


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

Tony: be careful with that silicone spray. It's a killer if you are going to paint something.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Guess that's why I like using 12" X 96" shelving board with melamine edge and a couple of C-clamps as a straightedge/guide. Hasn't failed me yet!


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## woodplay (Aug 11, 2009)

I've got the same 50 inch guide, as shown in your picture. Mine doesn't flex. I use it a lot. If mine flexed too I would never use it.


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## kfrisbie (Jan 20, 2009)

I have this same guide for short (less than 4ft) cuts, works great straight and true, snug it and cut, all longer cuts I have a piece of mdf 3/4" x 9" x 8' and two clamps no fuss.


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## PaulHWood (Mar 26, 2012)

Haven't had much flex issues, but the teeth cut into the runners causing the operation to suffer after repeated use. Thinking of trying to sand the runners.


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