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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## Chipy (Apr 20, 2011)

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This is a jig for my HF sanding drum set.I Made from mdf. this jig has two usable sides,one for the largest sanding drum and the other side is used for the smaller drums.It has a flapper vavle in the middle to block the hole that is not being used.I also have dust collection on the side.Scott


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks for sharing that Scott looks nice!!


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

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I know that going to the store and seeing what your getting is great. Sometimes you can catch a deal on ebay with these sanding drums. I personally have never used them, but was thinking about purchasing them. Usually they come with 5 sanding drums and then misc. size pieces of sand paper the fit the drums. The price on ebay is about 1/2 the cost from harbor frieght. Has anyone ventured into the ebay ones?


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

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Neat idea.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## RussInMichigan (Oct 15, 2010)

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Blackie,
This is great! Really useful stuff.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

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Wow, tons of work. Came out great!


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

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Stellar job on the d.c. and the rest of the build….looks like it will do the job. In my shop I put the d.c. and one air compressor in a seperate room , also, along with my central heat and air system…. It sure does cut down on all the noise tha comes from these two machines…..you'll at least be able to hear yourself think….lol.


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## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

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Glad to see you got it done, looks great. That will someday be one of my shop up grades as well.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks all


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

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Great blog, Blackie!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## RussInMichigan (Oct 15, 2010)

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Nice blog, Blackie.

Is that a 4" dust collection port on your band saw? I've got a Ridgid 14" and I need to devise some dust collection for it. It's got a 2 1/4" port under the table, but it might as well not be there for all the good it does.

Thanks for the blog.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks and yes it's a 4"


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## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

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Hey Blackie! 
I see you made me a buddy. 
I just got my new Grizz G0555P a few weeks ago and couldn't wait to try my hand at making a band saw box. I banged two out so far and hope to make a few more. I took a look at all your boxes and they look great. 
I see you have the riser kit on your saw. I like your set up. I can't believe the saw didn't come with a light or wheel brushes. I added a tooth brush to the lower wheel. I may do the say for the upper one too. 
Someday I'll buy the kit for my saw but only after I pay off a few bill's. 
I retired at age 54, that was 11 years ago. I put 30 years in at GM/Saturn. I also feel very lucky to be retired in this day and age! 
Happy wood working! I'll be watching for your nest project! 
Tony C


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Hi Tony

Glad to have you as a bud, if you haven't already, take a look at the mobile base I constructed for the bandsaw this allowed for an outfeed table, with the riser it gives a total of 12" clearance from the top gides to the table top thus I am able to make my own boards by making the bandsaw a sawmill, I've already saved boo-coos of $$ on wood by cutting them myself with a chainsaw then running them through my bandsaw so yes get the riser it is well worth it and will save you money in the long run.

Another thing I use and you might want to invest in as soon as you can is the Carter Bandsaw stabilizer with this you will no longer need your upper or lower guides at all when cutting with 1/4" and down sized blades, see the video as well. 
http://www.carterproducts.com/product.asp?productid=36&catid=14

Myself I've been retired now 2 years I was lucky enough to retire at the early age of 50 after 25 years of service with the city of Austin, If you have any questions please feel free to ask.

Randy


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## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

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Randy , 
I checked out the video on that guide. I better save my penny's. I want that and the riser kit. I have spent a ton of money during the Christmas holiday's. I got a new Lenovo T420 Thinkpad, New Grizzly band saw and a new leather easy chair. I was told by the boss to STOP RIGHT THERE!! until all the bills are paid up. But I now have something to look forward to. Thanks for showing me that guide video, it looks like a winner!

Tony


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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Tony, I bought the Carter Stabilizer for my 17" Grizz and felt like I got ripped off on the "adapter" for an extra $60. If they try to sell you an adapter, see if you can't make one for next to nothing. That said, I do love my Stabilizer.


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## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

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Thanks for the tip gfadvm! I always try to make my own parts if I can.
I just posted a light I added to my saw. Check it out here http://lumberjocks.com/projects/61007

Blackie… I see you made a comment on my light! Thanks for the inspiration!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## Danpaddles (Jan 26, 2012)

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By gosh, you are right, I just went and looked at my Delta, yes you lose throat depth at the level of the table. Hey, I need an 18!! I'll have to add it to my list I guess.

Long as we are on bandsaws- at the risk of hijacking your thread- anyone else ever try the little bearing blade guides, instead of cool blocks? I have ones made by Iturra Designs. The Carter set looks even more involved.

I have been using these for over a year. I do not often use small blades, I try to keep a 1/4 or 3/8 on it, if I need tighter curves I'll use the scroll saw. I had a 3/16 10 tooth blade, but that was before I put the bearing things on.

I'm not convinced they are any better or any worse than cool blocks. Considering the price- skip them. Yes, they can be set real tight to the band, and they cut down on wiggle. But if you ever back up, or somehow pop the band out of those bearings, you have a bigger mess, you might even have to stop the saw to get it all back where it belongs.

I have the bearings, so I'll use them. Setup kills me when I change bands, I worry about getting them too tight or too loose and ruining the little buggers. I'd not buy them again.

Anyone tried the ceramic ones? How about the Carter set up?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Dan I use the Carter Stabilizer and love it only the smallest blade it can handle is 1/4".


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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Blackie, I use 1/8" and 3/16" blades with my Stabilizer and haven't had any problems. Who said it can't handle the smaller blades?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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OOPs I just read what I posted, correction I meant to say the largest blade.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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Blackie, I called Carter and asked why I couldn't use a 1/2" blade on my Stabilizer. They said "no problem but it won't cut very tight radius". The only problem I have had is using my Stabilizer with my circle cutting jig. It doesn't work with any size blade. I think you need the lower guides to keep the blade from spiraling in. Doesn't make sense as I can cut circles with the Stabilizer but not with the jig.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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fFadvm, I've not used a circle jig yet, haven't had the need too, I have a pretty steady hand when it comes to making circles as long as there's a line to follow. Good to know it will work with a 1/2", that will save me the trouble of swapping guides when it comes to resawing.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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It won't resaw worth a damn with the stabilizer. I think for the same reason the circle jig doesn't work: you need some guides below the table. I haven't tried using the stabilizer with the lower guides but this might work. Let me know if you try it. I leave my resaw guides set up and this make installing them much easier when I need to resaw. I use a 1" 3TPI blade for resawing. Sorry we hijacked this thread but hopefully we all learned something new.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Ah ok that's good to know I do more scroll work then resaw so changing out guides and blades is not really a big deal for me, you must have an 18" or larger saw to handle that 1". I've ran a 3/4" on mine but as most on LJ have mentioned the 14" likes the 1/2" and after using both I tend to agree, the 14" tends to like the 1/2" blade best and no worries about hijacking all good info.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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I have the 17" Grizzly Extreme Series and really like it.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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A happy table saw is one that gets a new fence.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

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Good point Mr. Blackie! I do the dust pan thing also!


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

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like many i have been tempted to get the whole floor sweep rig
but as i have no bags or cans (i just blow everything outside into the dessert)
having more hose and toys taking up space in the shop
seems counter productive to me

and the dust on the floor has 'debris' in it
from glue glops to wrappers and tape clumps

so i too sweep that up and take it to the dump
with all other house and shop trash

don't need to have it messing up the land
straight clean sawdust is good for the soil


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

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I went to the time and effort to make my own floor sweep, only to go back to the dust pan method… The crud that was going into my floor sweep was kind of big anyway…


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

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The floor sweep is nice, but, I usually scoop up the big stuff first and use the sweep for the finer dust and shavings so I don't have to fuss so much. The finer stuff usually gets accumilated in front of the sweep until it is cleanup time.

Emptying the dust bag doesn't bother me. If I'm making sawdust, I'm also making money.
More sawdust = more money. I can dig it.


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## cabmaker (Sep 16, 2010)

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There ok. Just remember that if your using a bag type unit everything you sweep into the floor sweep will have to make it past your impeller. Best suited for a cyclone type. If your in a garage size shop, I dont see it as even remotely neccessary.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

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Two-stage seperator is on the list… :-D


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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DS but wouldn't you make even more if you were emptying the bag less? I'm in my shop 8 - 10 hours a day so I generate a lot of dust so for me time is money and it's much quicker for me to seep into a pan, you have to sweep anyway no matter what.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Blackie, if you don't have any DC, I hope you are wearing a dust mask out there. Dust is bad fer the lungs man. I don't have the floor sweep deal, so I still gotta sweep too, but, nothing will ever be completely dust-free. I like seein your projects, so git you some dust collection o some sort.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Roger you need to go look at my work shop  and yes I ware a mask too.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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Randy, My shop made chip separator took all the hassle out of emptying that plastic bag. (no clamps or fuss)


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## crashn (Aug 26, 2011)

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+1 on the chip separator. I have emptied the 50 gallon trash can at least 50 times and have not had to empty the bag yet. It maybe has a gallon of really fine dust in it.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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unfortunately the room I built outside my shop for the DC I didn't make it big enough for a cyclone or separator


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

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I would not use one because I like sweeping the shop floor and picking up all the chips every day so I don't track them into the carpeted room off my shop. They way I look at it is I'm getting aerobic exercise by doing it. My barrel fill up fast enough with the dust deputy on top. It collects from my band saw, planer and drum sander and I use it to clean off the machines every so often.
.....................Jim


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## DonnaMenke (Sep 20, 2006)

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Excellent contraption, Blackie. At woodcraft the dust from the sliding compound miter saw was the worse problem. We tried a couple of different hoods but none seemed to work very well. Your's look to be quite efficient.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Donna you and your husband should plan a ride into town sometime and take a look at my shop.


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## DonnaMenke (Sep 20, 2006)

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Sure- thanks for the invite, but we go into town about twice a year- so don't hold your breath. When we do- we will let you know ahead of time and you can send us directions. Donna


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

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This is a major Challenge

I tend to use the RAS as it causes less dust

and a bit quieter.

I've even thought about a fabric hood

How efficient are you finding it?

Jamie


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Jamie, it works great, what dust that doesn't make to the back of the box I simply just brush it back and it gets sucked down, minimal dust on the floor. If you don't have a slider just a compound you don't have to build as big of a box I had to allow for the swing and back and forth.


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

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Randy, I'm impressed

I'm at the moment getting my DC fitted by

a friend and I think I may just try this if you don't

mind

I'm fitting 3000 cubic meters per hour, which I

think is 192000 cubic foot per hour in 6" duct so

I think it will have the volume to get most.
jamie


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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That is nice Randy. Anytime you can keep that dust outta your body, the better off you'll be.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Jamie this is what LJ is all about I wouldn't of posted it if I didn't think someone could use the idea actually I found the instructions here on LJ to build it so please be my guest, if you have any questions please ask.

Thanks Roger.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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That looks like a good solution for a chronic problem. I built several but they worked only fair. The dual ports/hoses are probably why yours works well. Mine would catch the sawdust but miss the fine airborne dust. I try really hard not to use mine at all.


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## carnutakp (Nov 5, 2010)

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Nice dust hood, but I took a quicker route. I use a big sturdy cardboard box to capture the dust without an exhaust hose. The deeper the box the better for catching dust and for putting scrap pieces in. Any time I need to, I just get a new cardboard box (usually free from some recycling location). A really good sturdy box will last for years and hold its shape, and I've been doing woodworking for about 40 years so far. I've built many dust catchers and found the box method the cheapest and easiest to use, even on my planers and router/shaper tables. Mine don't look as good as the wood ones, but looks aren't my goal. Note: The flaps on the front of the box where the saw goes can be left on and used as moveable wings to capture more dust on some project, or you can just fold them in to make the box stronger. The key is to find a good AMERICAN made heavy box. Chinese boxes are junk and don't hold their shape or stand up to use. China doesn't have good wood for paper stock, and when they get wet they fall apart.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks for the cardboard idea, Actually Carnutkp I've since torn this thing apart and used for other projects and discarded the rest, It just got to the point that it was just getting in the way, I do how ever like your idea of a cardboard box, I've also upgraded that HF piece of junk M/S with a Dewalt.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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this could be another good "app" for Steves "I-Wood" plan.  Sounds logical to me


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## DonnaMenke (Sep 20, 2006)

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Doesn't everybody? It is always easier to find a piece of wood scrap as I'm working at the bench, than a piece of paper. I even doodle on the poor bench top too. Isn't it nice how renewable our resources are. Afterwards I can sand and reuse!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Donna I had done it on occasions but I never thought about using a board all the time and the wind blowing never crossed my mind either.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

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I have a 12" hunk of 2×4 I have been using to hold measurements for years.. I ought to upgrade to this method! More room for sketches.


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

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Paper works great for me. I have a large stack of 5×7 tablets I bought years ago for a few dollars and keep them in several locations in my shop. The only wind in my shop is the ceiling fans so they don't blow away. The used paper makes good kindling for the burn pile.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Greg yea makes since, I was focusing more so on contractors that have are in and out.


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## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

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I always wrote the measurement on whatever I had to cut, sees to it I'm always cutting the right piece to the right size.


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## Sarit (Oct 21, 2009)

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Am I the only one who uses a spiral notebook of graph paper or a clipboard?

Scrapwood doesn't feed very well in my printer when printing out sketchup drawings.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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LOL! Love it, says the guy who says" Now where the#$%^ is my measuring tape! Pencil? No (**&^^ writing tools" Need a break "Oh there it is!" I grab paper from my printer and use a clip board if I can find it. LOL!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Good to know. I like it cuz it's gotta thermostat, and would be a heck of a lot better than a big ole iron. Thnx fer the post.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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What I like to do Roger is get a baby sock and put over the iron so I don't take a chance of burning the banding plus it helps it slide over the banding better.


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## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

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Nice, Thanks for posting…..


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

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I'll keep this in mind. 
I used my wifes iron once and she threatened me with bodily harm if I ever did it again


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

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Thanks. This looks almost identical to the one sold by Woodcraft for$48.50; and at Hangar 9 it is on sale for $16.99 (regular $22.99)-very interesting.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Thanks! Pass it by often…LOL on my way to the box store, will check it out!


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

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Always good to have choices


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

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No prices… When you click "Add to Cart" it says "No Stores Found".

I think I'll pass.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Dallas they are legit we have two stores here in my local city they are a franchise so not sure what seems to be going on with the web site and sorry it's not working out for ya.

Edit in
Ok I just went and tried it, you have to enter a mile then enter your zip code, I know it's a bit backwards if you ask me but you get a store if you enter the data.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

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Thanks Blackie_, That makes more sense.

The trouble is that there isn't one near me. In fact the closest bLowe's is 42.3 miles away, BORG is 49.2 miles. 
I normally don't deal with websites that don't show me a price up front and I definitely don't deal with websites that require me to enter information before they give me a price.

They might be a great retailer, I don't know, but lots of alarms go off when I can't get the information I need from the web site I'm at.

You might email them and tell them about it as I am just not comfortable dealing with that website.

Thanks for your input.

DF


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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I do so agree Dallas, I'd be put off by it too especially in todays time, there's no need for that kind of nonsince with todays technology, who ever did their web design, well lets just say he/they/she won't be doing mine.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Very interesting Blackie. Thnx. I'll have ta check out the hobby store next time I'm near it.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

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Great idea Blackie! I use wax paper all the time under my bar clamps. Keep the glue off and so I don't get the black spot's on the wood where the glue touches the metal bar.


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## AJswoodshop (Mar 2, 2012)

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Great tip! Some of my clamps are metal C-clamps, which can dent your wood. Thanks for the tip!

AJ


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

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It works very well


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## JR45 (Jan 26, 2012)

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Good idea. Teflon baking sheets do the same job and they are reusable as well.
Jim-


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

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I use wax paper to squeeze glue onto when using an acid brush. I hadn't considered other uses. Thanks for the post!


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## DaddyZ (Jan 28, 2010)

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Use it all the time Clamping up boards !!!


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

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Simple solution. Great thought.


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## JAGWAH (Dec 15, 2009)

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For small projects great idea, but I buy rozen paper from the lumber yard and hang a roll like paper towels at the end of my bench. I just pull a run across the bench and glue away. It also works as a surface to scale draw a project.

Another handy is when you see any of the refrigerator boxes. Just cut the sides apart and use them for a bench topper when your going to be a bit more rough than usually.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Yep, Blackie. I'll lay a piece or tape a piece on my pipe clamp where the glue will squeeze out. Works very well. If you poly your work top, glue won't stick to it either


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Anyone know if other than rosen paper we can get wide rolls of waxed paper?


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## Toolz (Feb 26, 2008)

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You can get "freezer" paper in rolls wider than wax paper. It has a plastic coating on one side. That is what I use.
Larry


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## davedye (Jan 22, 2012)

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I use a Melalmine top on the table that I do glue-ups on. Glue doesn't stick to Melamine.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

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I also have Melamine on my assembly table for a top. I like it. It helps old eyes find things in the light too. I have good light but ….well, older poeple just need a little more. When my table top gets ugly and stained, I turn the top over and start fresh.


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## Mip (Sep 16, 2012)

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These tips work very well, I use them all the time. Another thing you can use waxed paper for is lubrication. Since there is wax in waxed paper(duh!), you can rub it in you miter gauge slot on the table saw if the gauge sticks. Just rub it anywhere it needs a small amount of lubrication.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Yep Mip I use it also for that same purpose as well.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## scrollgirl (May 28, 2010)

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Congratulations on a good day! Yes, the first time you do something such as this, there is a bit more of an outlay. But as you said, from here on you are going to make a much higher profit margin. I think that accepting Visa/MC 
is essential when selling higher priced items. People that go to types of shows like this don't usually carry lots of cash because they don't know what to expect. Much of the buying is 'impulse buying' and accepting credit cards really help boost sales. I think you did great and I am happy that you were so successful. Great set up too! Thanks for sharing your nice story! 

Sheila


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

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Yaaaaaaaaaaaay! Glad to hear you did well. Of course outdoor sales don't happen here this time of year. I like talking to the people. If they are at least looking at the items then I keep them in the booth. But if i have something that never draws attention after a few shows it gets discontinued. Can't have it taking up space for nothing.

Congratulations again!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Congrats on the sales. It's ruff out there cuz folks don't seem to have the extra bux. Glad you did good. Your finely built boxes, and such, deserve good homes


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

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Way to go, Randy, that was a good show! You have quite a large inventory so they had a lot of choices, too!!
Thanks for sharing…........Jim


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## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

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Congratulations! Nice looking booth Blackie! 
You will soon learn what people are drawn to the most. 
As Roger said it's ruff out there in this economy. 
We have all seen your work on LJ's and we know why you were successful! 
Your work is very interesting and every item says "pick me up and take me home" !


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks all, I'll be heading out today with chainsaw in hand to cut some more hackberry limbs for making more drinking coasters out of.


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## DonnaMenke (Sep 20, 2006)

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Way to go Randy! Congratulations on having such a great first show. You did everything right- and you succeeded. Your collapsible shelving is so kool- is that your design or from published plans? Your display is super and the only thing I can recommend for the future is to make different heights on the tables. I put boxes under the covering cloth and that creates varying heights. That way you can feature some of the fancier boxes up higher, and they don't all get hidden behind one another.
Did you sell any of the vehicle boxes? They are so great.
People do like unique and unusual. Small and odd (though pleasingly) shaped boxes may be the way to go for quick money makers.
Thanks so much for the photos and review of your first foray into the show market. Donna


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

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It is great to hear that you had a show that was successful. Your display looks very nice and it does an excellent job of presenting your work.
Having a card reader is the only way to go. Only one of my sales during the past 2 years has been cash. Cash for higher priced items is most certainly a rarity.
I hope all of your shows are successful….


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## cmaxnavy (Dec 23, 2007)

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well done! looks like a lot of sunshine! how did your woods react to the heat/sun?


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

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Sounds like a fun and successful day,congrats.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks Donna

None of the vehicle boxes sold, they were looked at but that was it, everyone liked my magnet secret compartments but again no takers, making a taller shelve on the table top is a great idea, I never thought of that I'll do that next time.

The shelving units I had seen on a site, no plans just saw how the worked I figured out the rest and made them myself.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks Charles, I never noticed any difference in the wood.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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I'm late to your party. Congratulations! Where too next? What is the cost for your credit card transactions?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks once again everyone

Thomas

2.75% per transaction. Nothing going on until March of next year so not sure just yet.


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## rtriplett (Nov 25, 2009)

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Thanks for telling us about your experience. There seem to be a few of us doing shows in various parts of the country. I have had some good shows and some not good. Finding the right place is an ongoing adventure. You work looked good. Definitely creative.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

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Good job, Randy. I went to an arts and craft fair yesterday at a local high school. Over one hundred booths and not one of them was selling anything like you had on display, or anything that I would have built.

I guess I need to get on the stick and find one to go to…and make up some inventory.

Note: I have the Square card reader that works on my Samsung Galaxy, Tab, and iPad. Makes it pretty nice for thos spontaneous sales. I also have everything else to set up a booth because we wer selling photos at softball tournaments.

Thanks again for sharing your experience wiht us.
Mike


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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Congrats Randy. Sounds like you did very well for your first experience. Your stuff is so cool that I knew it would sell. I'm suprised the trucks weren't the first things sold. I love those.


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## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

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Randy,

Nice job. I am genuinely happy that your sales went so well. It is well earned success. Your fine work deserves to be honored by sales.

The tiered shelves sound like a winner for your displays…consider wire shelving covered with cloth. Stuff looked a little crowded. You might put one or two of something out and keep the other two copies in a plastic keeper under the table.

Sometimes people will look at things like your boxes and eat them up the next time you show there. (I call them In and Out boxes.) Don't give up on them yet. I would make some about half the length of the ones you have displayed. A smaller footprint will help.

How did the stool work? As you found out…People just don't carry money any more. Winter would be a good time to make or have someone make a flag to fly above your booth with a box or something on it if you want to do that.

Remember, what sells well just before Christmas does not always sell as well in spring or summer.

I am so happy about your success. You have earned it by doing quality work. Careful that money doesn't become the only driving factor. It leads you to too many shortcuts and too much "factory work."


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Well it's still early morning here I've not gotten used to the time change yet.

Thanks again everyone
Andy, I did, couldn't be more happier with my turn out, on the trucks yea me too but it was a first showing, maybe I need to go ahead and add the piggy bank slot to the trucks, that might help move them.

Big Al, I had the other shelve folded up with a price sticker on it to sell, I had in mind that another vendor might be interested in it but after watching and learning how things worked for several hours, I came to the conclusion in my mind that fellow vendors are not there to buy they are there to sell so I went ahead and put it to use, that helped with the over crowding.

The two Santa Sleighs were my top sellers and they are seasonal so I have to consider that if only I had made a couple more, now I know.

The stool was just a get-me-by sorta thing, I plan on purchasing a folding high chair along with a new canopy, the one I was using was a cheap harbor freight that I had bought several years ago before I got into woodworking and the day of the event it decided to fall apart not to mention it wasn't up to standards as others canopy's were, when I got home I gave it to the neighbors across the street as they have little ones and would be great for a park.

Thanks for the input and info on what to expect for future sells.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

Will be a journey in marketing. LOL! Wonder if you got any sage like advise from fellow craftsman at the show you went too?

Think it is important to view your sales from the customers viewpoint. You put a lot of creative effort into your boxes. One at a time. If you have storage space to keep them out of sight, sell them one at a time?

Met a master woodcarver at a show where many woodcarvers had there wares. He had this magnificent bird sitting on a branch with the wings spread and the feathers were in detail! His wife did the talking, he was demonstrating carving.

I know another master furniture builder who sells "high end" custom built one of a kind pieces. He has a magnificent well lite shop space. Wears a baret (sp?) and has long hair for effect. He also has the client come to discuss the piece spreading a lunch on a clean canvas on another bench, with lots of delicaces (sp?)

Told me that he was surviving while other master woodworkers were not during hard financial times. Told me "Tom it's all in the sales. And people who spend their money want to feel part of the piece."

Unfortunatly, my shop won't have customers like Mark's as it doesn't have the beauty,and ya gotta love cats! LOL!

Just some thoughts.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## camps764 (Dec 9, 2011)

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having an arsenal of finishing techniques is always good…different pieces call for different finishes. Wipe on Poly was my default for most things. You can make your own by cutting Poly with Mineral Spirits…cheaper than buying the Minwax Wipe on Poly. This gives you more flexibility, if you want a few heavy coats, a lot of thin coats, several thin coats and a final heavy coat, etc.

Also, you might want to check out Canadian Woodworks finishing method. He uses a wipe on Oil blend…the Wood Whisperer uses something similar in some of his projects. I have started donig this on some projects as well and REALLY like simplicity of it.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks Steve, great info.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

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Wipe on makes it a lot simpler


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## janice (Jan 8, 2009)

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Interesting. I've been wondering about the wipe on. I've been using polyacrylic lately. Like that alot better than polyuerthane. But I do want to try this method that is now yours. I saved this as a favorite so I can come back to it. Thanks.


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

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Thanks for the post. This raises an interesting question that I've considered opening, but will pose here. Has MinWax reformulated its polyurethane so that it is no longer prone to turn amber? The only reason I used lacquer on my last project was to preserve the natural color of the wood since polyurethane has historically turned wood (maple in particular) amber. However, on several projects I've done since late summer and used MinWax polyurethane, the finish has seemly remained clear like a lacquer finish. Has anyone had similar experiences or any knowledge? Thanks for any input.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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John something comes to mind that you might try.

Minwax makes a wood conditioner I wonder if that would counter that amber effect on maple, also what about sealing the wood with shellac? I'm no expert just throwing that out there.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Interesting Randy, and everyone above. This is another reason why this site is so informative. Everyone has input. It's like makin a big ole bowl o soup. You get a bunch o recipes, with a bunch o ingrediants, and add, subtract, or whatever to your pot, and, voila. Another gr8 bowl o soup. It's always good to have knowledge of so many options on the finishing parts o this fine hobby.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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was just responding on project page..LOL!


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

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Great job


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## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

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Very nice Randy it works well from the looks of those boards! Makes me want a riser block and a new blade!


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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Good blog and the sled looks like it works perfectly. Now go slice some of that live oak so I can drool over it!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Have to do my redbud and walnut first Andy  yep got some free walnut last week, a tree down on a lady friends property.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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Bring me some live oak and I'll send you home with some nice walnut! You guys have all those cool trees that won't grow here: live oak, mesquite, Texas ebony, etc.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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If I'm not mistaking Redbud is the state tree for OK, is that correct? If so can it still be used for woodworking?


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Slice-n-Dice Randy. A very fine sled/jig


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## harrywho (Jul 20, 2009)

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Just what I was looking for. Really like the sled. Thanks a lot Randy!


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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It is our state tree but I don't think there are any restrictions as far as cutting/using them for woodworking. We've got lots of the but most are very small around my area.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

Thinking my jig through before building it. I have a GO555 original green. Getting a 3/4 inch Timberwolf blade flexible.

You are cutting by running true to the miter slot. How did you adjust for drift?

Thanks!

Tom


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

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Wow. That's way better than my piece of crap. Needs to be next on my list.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

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Nice jig. Congratulations.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

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Randy, I like the basic idea of this jig. It looks like it will run true and lets you measure directly for the height of the blade. Setting the trough sides high will keep it from getting too chewed up with your cuts. However, I would make the trough boards longer so you can slide the box along and make consecutive cuts on one corner and then turn the box to the next corner. I use a simple masking tape and pencil mark to locate my placement for splines. It is fast and accurate enough for box making. Mechanically moving the fence or a stop takes way too much time. Here is my version of a spline cutting jig. With this I can lay out and cut 16 spline slots in a box in 5 minutes or less, and I can set the jig on the floor next to the saw and it is self-supporting. Andy's design is a good one and may work better for what you are doing, but this works well for me on large and small boxes as well as trays.










Here is what my version looks like. There are other views and explanations on the link.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Good work! Love your comment Monte! LOL!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Looking at yours big Al, it looks like it would suit me more as I somethings have the tall 13" + boxes and I can see how yours could go faster, not having to reposition the fence instead simply moving the box to it's new cut line.


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## CalgaryGeoff (Aug 10, 2011)

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There are a lot of similar varieties of spline jigs used and made by lumberjocks. I've made mine with a guide strip on the underside that fits into table saw top guides and router table. It can cut three different spline angles on the table saw and dove tail splines on the router table. I use a stop block on the sled to position my box for spline locations and move it as required. So far I've only used it for 90 deg splines. I need to add a few more options to it and will post when completed.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Nice looking jig Geoff


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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I like it Randy.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

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Good use of your ratchet straps Randy…How are they at keeping the box perfectly square during the glue drying?


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## CalgaryGeoff (Aug 10, 2011)

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Hi there, I use a very similar method for gluing up my boxes. Tape the corners and use a ratchet strap to get tight glue ups. Works well for me as the tape holds the box square and any gaps are closed using the straps.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Greg, they do very well, if you have your miters cut square the straps are going to hold true, this box is right on the money from corner to corner.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

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I've done this with frames as well. And if the frame/box is small enough, you can use bungie cords to do the same. So long as your angles are true, it'll set up square.


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## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

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Boy O boy, you aren't going to believe this Randy.
I was out in the shop today working on a project and needed a clamp, and noticed I had a pack of those straps in the drawer. I saw someone post a "how to" on using them but never followed up on it.
And low & behold, you post this !
Thank you my friend, I'm going to break these out and use your method the next time I need a strap clamp.
(kind of tight on this end as well… 
Thanks


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## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

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Blackie,

Do they look like this? 
This is a link to a tutorial about how I make them…much like yours except I eliminated the knot. The scrap piece is to keep the ratchet mechanism from digging into the wood. Looks like you are taking the challenge of fitting a lid on the top with a 45. Why not just glue it on square and bring it flush with a bearing router bit? I have used the 45 technique, but only if I am wrapping a grain pattern from back to top to front and want it all to match.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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Randy, I use those in EXACTLY the same way you do. (Great mind think alike, huh?) I'm amazed that the boxes always come out perfectly square. I have one of those Bessey band clamps that I like as well but too pricy to have as many as I need.The Bessey came with those plastic corner thingys. Used em once, hated em!


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

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I am with Andy. I do it the same as you.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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*Big Al*, you are speaking Greek to me remember this is all new to me, I'm just now coming into a new world of box making other then bandsaw boxes.

The reason I am doing it this way is because this is how it was demonstrated to me during one of my local woodworking meetups from a 40 year woodworking veteran, I didn't ask questions I just watched how he did it.


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

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Randy…that is a good way to glue your boxes. I have a dozen of these frame clamps that I bought several years ago and they work great….I have a lot of those strap clamps that I bought for use with my flatbed trailer and never thought of using them for box glue up before I bought thew frame clamps. It would most certainly been cheaper than the frame clamps but I don't have any complaints at all about the ones I use now other than the initial cost.


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## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

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I have both the Bessey clamp system and another called "Pony", which I can't recall where I purchased. The "Pony" has metal corners, which only work if you have already radiused the corners. Kind of hard to do on an unfinished glue-up. I've used the "Pony" on boxes as small as 6" by 2.5". Kind of a clumsy setup, what with the 6 foot strap. I'm hesitant to chop it down, as I always like my tools to span their capability, though I may never make anything that big.

Blackie, it appears that you even mitered the top edges of the sides. Do you plan to glue the lid on and then slit the top off the box?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Hi AtomJack

To answer your question, yes, I've already done just that though I am still in the learning stage, I'll try just gluing the top on straight without the 45s next.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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Randy, The mitered top you are doing is more difficult than just glueing a board on the top of your box BUT it is a much cleaner/classier look as there is no end grain or long grain glue joint visable. Brit Boxmaker's EZ Mitre technique is a good example of the look achieved by mitering the lid. You can "flow" the grain right across the lid and down the sides or front. I've done it like you did as well as using the EZ Mitre technique. I really like the look!


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## WorstNicknameEver (Mar 18, 2013)

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I am a newbie and I was wondering if any one has used these straps for a simple edge to edge glue up. Something like a table top? I have a number of straps but very few long clamps? The straps would be easier to store and I like the fact that they can have more than one use!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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WNNE I'm not the one that can answer that question sorry, hopefully someone here can, might try asking in the forum this question and link this post in your posting.


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## Maze (May 31, 2013)

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Hopefully I'm not too late to the conversation, but I was using ratchet straps to glue up a six sided birdhouse with miters and I had a hard time keeping joints straight and, worst of all, avoiding the ratchets from digging into my piece. I did use wood shims to try to keep the ratchet away from the piece, but this resulted in uneven pressure being applied to the joints. Any ideas? Do they make specific woodworking ratchet straps that somehow keep the ratchets away from a project?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Maze, there are specially made ratchet straps specific to box making a bit pricy though, as for as your problem, I've not ran across this yet, nor have I attempted a 6 sided joint either though sorry might try asking this in the forums.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

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Looks good. How did you do?


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## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

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Nice looking booth Randy! 
I was thinking that maybe with each purchase you could attach a card that would lead your customer's to their item on Lumberjocks. They would read all the nice comments people have left on the item they bought from you. Just a thought. 
Hope you did well at the show!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Wrong venue Monte, only sold three items, this was a flea market type of a venue, my stuff was above others, I most likely won't go back that location again I made rent, gas and enough for a few nice dinners.


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

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Lookin' good-hang in there!


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

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Right Randy. You don't want flea market venues. People expect stuff too cheap. Some craft shows turn out the same. I ran into that this winter…............Jim


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

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Looking very professional Randy

Jamie


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## followyourheart (Feb 3, 2010)

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It all looks great! Too bad it was the wrong venue, I've had that happen and it is so frustrating and disappointing!


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

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Nice looking display Randy…sorry it wasn't a better show for you. You definitely have to sort out the shows and determine what you feel will be your market. my wife and I have checked out numerous shows, fairs and festivals over the years and scratched many off our list after evaluating what the clientelle appeared to be buying and what type of art/crafts were being offered.
Here is a good art show website you might want to check out if you are not already familiar with it


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## AngieO (Jul 9, 2012)

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Awesome!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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I'm with Greg on that planning to visit a couple of fairs with juried exhibits to see what the clientel and pieces are like.

Saw you mentioned in the LJ's magazine. KUDOS!!!!!

Spent more than you made?


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Hey Greg, I just signed up. Thanks


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Greg, thanks for that site info, I wasn't aware of it.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

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Learning experience. Doesn't take long to figure out where you need to be.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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You have a great set up with a lot of nice stuff. Sorry it didn't go well. It's hard to find folks who appreciate handcrafted woodwork enough to trade their money for it.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Andy, I'm just now getting my feet wet as this was my second one to do, I think it's a matter of finding that right venue but with a right venue I'm sure the booth rental will be much more, this venue I was at was only a $40.00 rental fee.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Nice setup Randy. Sorry to hear you didn't do any better. It's ruff out there with folks with no money, no jobs, etc. Maybe the next one will be good for ya


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

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That's a real nice setup. It's very attractive, clean looking, and well thought out. You have some nice merchandise and it makes it look even more appealing.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

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Been there…done that…nice save…!


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

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Nice save. We all have to do that one time or other!!.............Jim


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

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Great save


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

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Randy,

Nicely done, and always remember, 'It's not how bad we err, it's how well we can recover'.

Best Regards. - Grandpa Len.


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

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Barely visible if you don't look closely and know what to look for


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

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Nice Save Randy
Jamie


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Yessssss, very nice save. Also, ditto what GrndpaLen said


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks everyone


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

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Thanks for posting this tip….

I'm almost looking forward to my next opps!!!


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

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" 'It's not how bad we err, it's how well we can recover'" 
Very true, we all makes mistakes but only some are able to make their mistakes look like if they were almost done on purpose.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

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Thank you for this tip and video , Randy : )


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## exelectrician (Oct 3, 2011)

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Thank you for the tip, I wish I knew about this last year.


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

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Now that's a useful trick. Not sure it would work with contact cement but I will definitely try to check out if it also does.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Good to know. Always learnin somethin on this site.


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## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

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Same thing if..

you use Titebond III and heat it in the Microwave.


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## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

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Blackie, Supre advise. Many heat guns are rated at about 4500 degrees. I didn't witness any scorching of the alder in your video, and the heat gun link mentioned wattage but not temperture. Do you have any idea as to how hot you might apply without scorching are maring most normal projects woods?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Hi Russell

On the very bottom of that link to the heat gun in comments it says nozzle can reach up to 400 degrees.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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Sodabowski, I have used a heat gun to "unglue" Formica that was glued with contact cement. Works well. My heat gun gets a LOT hotter than the one Randy posted so can char things if you're not careful (but Formica can take a lot of heat).


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

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Okay so it works too. Not sure this would do with veneer if you heat that much (until I get my hands onto some decent and fairly priced hide glue the only thing I've got in my arsenal to glue veneer without it warping is contact cement). Thanks for the tip mate


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## gearupflapsup (Feb 11, 2013)

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Thanks for the great tip!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

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Your testing is probably pretty accurate. Just for curiosity, maybe let the water set for 12-24 hours.


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

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The epoxy probably is safe if it's mixed and cured properly. One source says 30 days for film finishes for food safety. Not sure about epoxy, but it's probably longer than the listed cure time.

But I'm not sure that tester would be able to pick up the types of chemicals from the epoxy. Try putting the epoxy parts in water separately and see if the tester can pick them up at all.


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## mug (Sep 26, 2013)

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I made an account just to respond to your post. I am a woodworker who loves browsing the blog and forum, but I want to emphasize do not trust that meter for toxicology testing. Firstly I have to ask what units are the 171 in? Is it ppm, ppb and what is it measuring. I go on their website and all I see is marketing crap, where is the datasheet? In the quick research I did all I can find is that TDS is a measurement of dissolved salts and minerals, what they are measuring is the conductivity of the solution and inferring the total concentration of salts. While this maybe useful for measuring how much salts you remove from the water thus making it softer (also side note a water softener is an ion exchange filter), this meter will not give you any toxicology information. So basically it was included in the purchase of the filter to make it seem as though the product is doing amazing things in regard to purification.

Now for toxicology of epoxy, what you have to understand is that epoxy is an organic substance and that epoxy's hardeners. Looking at an MSDS of west system's 105 Resin and 205 Hardener I see these chemicals listed:
INGREDIENT NAME CAS # CONCENTRATION (%) 
Propane, 2,2-bis[p-(2,3-epoxypropoxy)phenyl]-, polymers 25085-99-8 60-100 
Benzyl alcohol 100-51-6 10-30 
Phenol-formaldehyde polymer glycidyl ether 28064-14-4 1-10 
Calcium Metasilicate 13983-17-0 1-10

and 205 Hardener :
INGREDIENT NAME CAS # CONCENTRATION (%) 
Reaction products of triethylnetetramine with phenol/formaldehyde 32610-77-8 40-70 
Polyethylenepolyamines 68131-73-7 10-30 
Triethylenetetramine 112-24-3 5-20 
Hydroxybenzene 108-95-2 1-10 
Reaction products of triethylenetetramine and propylene oxide 26950-63-0 1-10 
Tetraethylenepentamine 112-57-2 1-10

Now lots of these chemicals might sound strange, but I am certain you have heard of Propane, 2,2-bis[p-(2,3-epoxypropoxy)phenyl]-, aka BPA, which if I recall mimic closely estrogen. Very bad for any human. While these volatiles will mostly evaporate and dissipate after the initial hardening, I would imagine a significant proportion still remain in the epoxy , which can leach over time. Now a drinking cup implies that you are going to fill it up and pretty much quickly drink it. So the effective dosage that you get per session might be so low that its insignificant, but for sure the initial dosage will be fairly high and will drop off over time as more and more water rinse through the cup. Back to measuring toxicological quantities the only way to do this properly is to either do mass spectrometry on a sample of water and see how much of each chemical that you search is present, or a chemical test where in you can bind the compound that you are trying to find. Neither of which are quick. Now I am not trying to scare you out of doing what you want to do, you can do what ever you want to do, just don't mislead people in thinking that that test is sufficient.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Ok Mug I may have jumped the gun as I don't mean to mislead, thanks for your input in this matter, sounds like the tester is limited to what it test, I can attest to one thing for sure and that the water itself from a normal drinking container taste has a huge taste difference then straight from the tap for the better.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Randy, once you have 4 or 5 pints o that good ole Guinness, you won't be able to even say toxic… lol jus kiddin


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

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When I was building boats I used a lot of epoxies from a company called Industrial Formulators of Canada. The reason that I preferred them over the others was that the company was not only owned by the chemist / mad genius that formulated the products but it was local and I could ask questions directly to the man who knew rather than to the sales staff.
Bottom line is that they produced one product that was certified food grade by Canadian government labs and did not recommend any others to be used for contact with foods. The good news is that while IFC is no longer around, having been bought up by System Three, the product is still carried by System Three. I use it a lot as it is an amazing sealer. It can be found under the same name it has always had, *S1 sealer*.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks Paul, I'll go take a look.

A couple more website that I found out of I'm sure many others are

http://www.masterbond.com/tds/ep42ht-2fg

http://www.alfaadhesives.com/v2/productlist.php?series=FDA-Grade-Adhesives


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

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You're on the right track now. FDA approval is what is going to cover your a**.
At least better than it was. For the record and your consideration, S1 is a very thin penetrating sealer that, if recoated makes a nice varnish finish it is often used to seal the insides of cold moulded boats. I like it for it's viscosity, but any of the FDA approved ones you have found will work for you.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

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I have never flocked a box before but I have used the adhesive velvet from Rockler..
Now i exclusively use leather and different skins unless someone specifically requests velvet.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Greg, I didn't know rockler sold it, I went and took a look and it appears it only comes in green and black from rockler, Jo-Ann you can get it in any color you want and much cheaper, though you have given me an idea, perhaps I should start looking into other types of interior covering.


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## peekasan (Sep 24, 2013)

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Spray adhesive works to attach felt on projects larger that 9×12.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Oh wait Greg, I was looking at the wrong stuff, Rockler does have different colors but still no brown that I saw,

Peekasan, I'm trying to get away from the harmful fumes that the sprays and paint on glues leave, and work in the comfort of my home and not in the shop when doing it, the sprays still leave a mess.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

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Flocking if done correctly I think cannot be reproduced effectively by pressure sensitive products just yet.

The ability to produce seamless finishes is possibly its best attribute.

I also have some PS felts in a few colours but not the range of those in my flocking containers.

Here is one of the first flocking jobs I ever did from November 2009, its a pen box and its wearing well considering the use it gets.

You can see a few wear spots and that is about all.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

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I just had to add a PS

I just had a snoop around your shop,....Looking for flocking materials!! LOL

I must say that's one impressive shop!

Have you still got the R/C Plane?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Rob, thanks to answer the R/C planes, no I sold all planes and inventory, there wasn't enough room in the shop for both aside the sawdust I was generating was getting all over them, the planes were fun but they were just a pure hobby, the woodworking allows fun, hobby and a nice income.

I'm looking at your drawer above and it appears you have 90 degree walls with rounded corners? Flocking might be the best application but I think I would most likely try wrapped normal felt around cardboard and and fitting it onto the corners leaving the walls bare, I'm trying to get away from flocking, the fumes from the glue are just to much for me.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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I do the same w/cereal boxes. They work gr8. Can't say anything about flocking, cuz, I've never used it.


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

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I always am nervous about the felt peeling up after some use/wear. However, I just finished a couple heart shaped boxes that I am going to try the felt method.

Don't "Flock" it till you tried it, I guess?!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

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OK that's it…. my next box is gunna be a flocked one !!

I had an R/C Sioux helicopter many years ago, meaning before I was married, I think I spent more time looking for parts for it than actual flying it.

Then after I was married every time I started it up my wife used to bring out the first aid kit as the rotors always seemed to take a chunk out of my arm or shoulder before I could get out from underneath it.

I eventually sold it and then bought a leopard tank, it could knock over garbage cans it was so powerful.

I had a great time with it at the army base but when No1 son arrived it really scared him so it was sold too.

Oh the memories of R/C fun !!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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I was just getting into the large scale gas powered 3D when I got out, I had a 28% Extra it had an 8' wing span on it with a DA 50 CC gas motor on the front, I liked the war bird events also so kept an old greatplanes Orian for this it had a 120 four stroker on it, most of my flying was 3D, hanging the plane off the ground hovering like a Helicopter off the prop sometimes I'd allow the rudder to tap the ground then go into torque rolls, where you allow the plane to turn off it's prop axis while hoovering inches off the ground.

Yep the memories


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

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Just went to Pat Catan's yesterday and found a product called "Felties," basically another peel and stick felt product. It was very inexpensive, and I was afraid that it would feel cheap, but after applying it I think it is a very good alternative to flocking.

One thing that I did like about it - other than being a lot cleaner - was the wide variety that you can get without the initial purchase cost. With flocking, you are basically limited to whatever adhesive/powder mix you purchase, whereas with the felt you can even cut several colors to the same shape and allow the customer to choose which one they want.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Always nice having other avenues for purchasing, thanks for the update Tooch.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

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Blackie,
I use Joanne's peel and stick felt in my bandsaw boxes without the cardboard. So, it's not limited to straight sides.
My wife does a ton of quilting and her cutting mats, rulers and rotary cutters make sizing the felt a breeze.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Gene, I was referring to my non bandsaw boxes without the rounded corners when using the cardboard. Just normal non stick felt works fine for those on the 90 degree angles.

I used the peel and stick on my latest project that I just posted in the drawers.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

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Good thing they kept. It is now a good source of some fine wood for you!!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

Your relationship to that tree willl play out in your creativity! Hey at least it wasn't a Walnut! LOL! I've two of those ornery cusses! LOL!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Yes Jim for sure!

Yes Tom and I know your a stickler when it comes to cutting down a living trees but these trees aren't really that popular among average land owners they just assume they all be gone and most Mesquites don't even make it into trees more like a bush with thorns. LOL


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

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It will be some awesome lumber


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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I do understand…

I cut down a volunteer that I neglected for 5 years! have a lot of them. I do get rid of em. Just glad you are doing something positive. We need those guys to survive and balance our crap! LOL!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Oh I know Tom, I watch the show Axe Men on history channel and wonder if they replant from all the trees they cut down.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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LOL!

Did you know Minnesota was once a rain forest as it had so many trees. The lumber business took it down en-mass and deforested most of the state.

Hey maybe a dwarf ornamental that that won't leave to much crap behind? :<)

How big is your chainsaw?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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I have a 16" chainsaw craftsman, starts, works and cuts like a charm.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Thanks for paying tribute! :<)


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

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well done

looks like pic #5 has some spalting
like eyes and a white tail

might be nice for a box
maybe a lunch box


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Oh hey David, sorry I should have mentioned not all of that wood stacked along the fence is Mesquite, it's stacked up against other species such as post oak, hackberry, Live Oak and China Berry some of that is to be thrown out it's cracked to badly I didn't get the chance to mill it before it cracked, I think what you are looking at is hackberry.

The Post and Live oak are going to the fireplace, they don't play well with blades too dang hard, the hackberry is going to landfill to badly cracked but the china berry I just got so I might take it to the mill also.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

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what i was looking at 
is your dog 'lunchbox'


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Oh *Slaps Palm On forehead* 

That there is my pride-in-joy and yes she is a self made lunch box more like a goat. LOL


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## grfrazee (Jul 17, 2012)

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If you're looking to offload any, I've been making planes out of it. The stuff is wonderfully stable once dry and has a ratio of tangential-to-radial shrinkage of almost 1.0.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

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I took one down last week, I couldn't handle trying to mow around it anymore with the ZTrac John Deere. Everytime I did I ended up with a half dozen holes in the tires. Then there was the episode of having a young branch come down on top of me. It died young, but retained all those darned thorns.
It is gone, I gave it to my boss to use for smoking brisket. It should last him a few years.

I'm so sick of that bush, and it's gone forever!


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## gagewestern (Mar 24, 2009)

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Is that a Keeshond.


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## leafherder (Jan 20, 2013)

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I like your story - my first walnut tree was the only tree left on the lot when the house was built - a neighbor convinced the developer to leave it, I am now tending its two offspring and hope to get a pile of lumber someday. 
Glad to see you are putting the wood to good use - looks like you will have a lot to work with.
I was also going to ask about the dog - I would guess at least half Keeshond, but looks larger than a typical purebred.

Keep us posted on the progress - I will be interested to hear how the milling and drying goes.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Oh I know what you mean Dallas

No Gagewestern, she's a Norwegian Elkhound

Thanks Leafherder.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Oh I know what you mean Dallas

No Gagewestern, she's a Norwegian Elkhound

Thanks Leafherder.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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I see the 4-legged foreman is keeping the cutter in line. LOL


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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That's the supervisor Roger.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

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It would be a long trip, but you may be able to go to Tulsa ok and see one of our LJ's who has a mill. Send him a pm and see if he could do the logs. 
http://lumberjocks.com/gfadvm


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

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got the same problem her randy
got 2 - 8' black walnut
3 - 5'
2 - 4'
(all 6-8" D)

the mill will only do 8' or longer
($70 min.)
guess i'll see about ripping them with a chain saw
then a sled for the band saw


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Hi Bill, yeah I know Andy, we've talked on the phone before and I know he has a mill, I might have to contact him if I don't find something local.

Thanks


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Hi David, Can't a block be added to the back to take up the slack or something?

The mill said they would only charge me ballpark $150.00 which included a 6 month dry as well.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

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Randy, I would cut one or the larger log across at and angle making an oval and 2-3" thick for table tops. There is a guy making them like that in our park and they are some of the most beautiful tables. He uses the branches for the legs, too.

I just found out that I can get a lot of free chestnut trees that I could take them to the mill, but they already cut them to 6 ft and I can't get them milled that short either.
.............Jim


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

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Ok, great. How far is it from Austin to Tulsa? It's about 6 hours from me to Andy's. I'm planning to go down there this summer with some logs. Not that it will be cost effective, but it should be fun.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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I'm a good 9 hours from Tulsa, including delays in traffic, 7.5 hours without traffic drive time. Just getting out of Austin is like pulling teeth.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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sorry for the problem randy, yea these mills are set for the 8 foot thing, but they charge a bit it looks like, i just had my walnut tree cut for me, and i posted them, but the whole thing was 100 bucks…i hope you can find a solution to the problem, if its a problem, they do make a jig you use with your chain saw, just rip them yourself…look up haddon tools, see if it interests you. http://www.haddontools.com/lumbermaker.html


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Hey thanks Grizz, I have forgotten about that, I think Monte uses one of those.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Jim, thanks, I think I would need to use my chainsaw for the diagonal cuts?


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

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I use a haddon lumber maker with my chainsaw as well. It works, but you will definitely have to use a jointer later. I made all the hand rails for my loft that way as well as a large pine timber for my stairs.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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I may have to go with chainsaw mill option, I'll know more Monday, I do know for sure I'm going to want to have them Kiln dried, mesquite takes forever to air dry, I've heard up to 2 years.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

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If you happen to stop by sometime I have a 24" chainsaw mill I would make you a good deal on.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

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Yikes, that's a long time to wait.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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N/A


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

I had planned on doing some chainsaw mill lumber making. Bought a 20 inch poulan pro at 50 cc's Have a mill on order by a guy on ebay. I have a source of free lumber.

Just found out my saw is too small for chainsaw milling. Need 60 cc or bigger!

Saws like that are in 500 dollar and higher.

Angies list or Craigs list for portable sawyers?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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OH ok thanks Tom, now I know why you asked about my saw


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Yep! Good for horizontal slicing?

What is the diameter of the largest log? HP of your bandsaw? Saw an internet video about slicing Logs using the bandsaw. I think you have a newer version of my GO555. Just another idea?


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

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*DocSavage45*, You might be surprised what that little Poulan will do. I have been using mine for 2 years with no problem. I have gotten rid of the anemic factory bar and replaced it with a 20" and a 28" Oregon Powermatch plus. 
I have gut 20" oak with it with no problem.

After about 4,000 board feet and an untold number of downed trees, the compression started getting low. I rebuilt it with a $30 piston, wrist pin and ring.
It now starts as easy as it ever did.

Remember, back in the 60's and 70's all we had in Idaho and Montana was Mac Pro-Mac 610's and 650's….. those saws were essentially the same size and ran for years with no problem and got treated really badly.

Oh, and the Poulan Pro 5020AV is nearly a Husqvarna 450 rancher clone with a bit lighter clutch.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

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Randy, Short logs are a PITA to mill but $1000 for set up seems high to me. They shouldn't take over 3-6 months to dry if cut 4/4 and properly stacked and stickered. They will only get to ~15% MC if air dried but that works for me.

I can't tell from the pics what the diameter is but logs less than 10" don't yield much lumber. (measure the smallest end as that is the limiting factor).


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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They range from around 12" up to around 18"-20" something like that.

Andy I was told that Mesquite retain water more then other trees that's why they take so long to dry?

Tom I'm not sure the size HP - CC of mine is but I'm guessing around 35 to 50 CCs

Mine might be the 38CC


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

Dallas is saying he has used a 50 cc saw which is great! I don't know The cost of the chaps and gloves and helmet were pretty reasonable on Amazon. We've had that discussion. I read on an arbourist web site that my saw was underpowered. Same machine so????? I think your saw at 38 cc might be too small for slicing lengthwise,

For a thousand bucks? If there is a local state woodworkers group you might be able to find a simple solution.

A friend of mine found a local guy who charged 25 bucks. Small walnut logs.


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## Randy_ATX (Sep 18, 2011)

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Randy - just read this. I built a solar kiln, and I'm 5 miles from you. It's loaded up right now but depending on when you get yours milled we may be able to work out a mutual deal. Dallas if you are still reading this thread send me a PM on what you want for your mill if the other Randy isn't interested.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy_ATX,

I think that's great of you to offer! I'd suggest you pm Dallas, and that way it would get to him directly. Another alternative , if you have patience is the guy on Ebay that makes and sells a 24 inch all steel chainsaw mill? Takes awhile for him to build them.

I'd be interested in the performance of your solar kiln. I was thinking of using a similar principal to passively heat part of my shop with the venting off of a solar greenhouse/kiln.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Hi Randy

Providing Gene Hahn in Bastrop is able to mill the logs he quoted my a price $150 to mill and dry for up to 6 months, that's the deal I have so far.

I contacted another mill out off of Hamilton Pool Road called Southwest Trading Post, they said they can mill any length log but charge $100.00 an hour for milling only, no quote as of yet on drying,

I'll know more by Monday evening.

As for as the the mill Dallas has for sell, he gave me a price and is going to send me the pictures over tomorrow or where ever he has the chance.

Tom, I'm going to weigh my options of having it milled before buying anything new excluding what Dallas has, I may be interested in that.


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## Randy_ATX (Sep 18, 2011)

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Okay Tom and Randy. Tom, eventually I will post my solar kiln as a project. I have photos, just haven't posted the project yet.


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## Randy_ATX (Sep 18, 2011)

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Tom is this the one you are talking about? $139 plus free shipping?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-slabbing-mill-chainsaw-mill-portable-sawmill-/161259367092?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item258bceaab4


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Yep,

What did Dallas' come up with?


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

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That is the Panther II and from what I've been told, the guy is very slow to build them. I tried to get some parts from him and never heard a thing, although that was 2 years ago. 
I like that style because of it's mass. That seems to make it much more stable and easier to push.

I ended up making my own alterations and adding 2" of usable space between the cross bars.
You kind of have to remember, to use a full 24" space, you'll have to have a 28" bar. Depending on the saw, the the bar and the way they are set up, you can lose up to 8" of usable space.
Let's see if I can upload a picture here now. I couldn't last night.

My alteration:









His original:









Those uprights that clamp on to the bar on his original eat up one inch on each side. If you look closely at the alteration, I cut the cross bars and set the uprights in them so they take up no space except what the cross members need.
I suppose I could have moved them to the outside to create more room, but for some reason this seemed like a better idea at the time.
He also shows the clamp on the upright all the way out to the tip of the bar. Guess what? It don't work that way. If you put the clamp all the way out there you will squeeze the sprocket. If it even turns, there will be a lot of drag. Worst scenario: you'll be replacing the sprocket.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Hey,

Is that a Poulan chain saw? :<)

I'll be talking to you when it gets here. He does say it takes at least 30 days from ordering the milll.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

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Yup. It's my sooped up Poulan Pro 5020AV.

Compression eventually got low from hundreds of hours working, I rebuilt with Husqvarna 455 piston and ring.
I want to get a Husky clutch for it too, It's a bit stiffer. I'll have to wait though, this clutch is just gine, and I have a spare.

The bar is a 28" Oregon Power Match Plus.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Looks like your woodpile is growing! LOL!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Yep Tom, I'm almost to the point I don't have to purchase near as much as I used too.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

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I foresee a bunch of new boxes from that lumber!


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

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Those logs clean up quite nicely…


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

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Nice figure in that stock. Should make some real nice boxes.


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## CoachSchroeder (Jan 3, 2014)

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You mill those on your bandsaw? What kind of jigs you using for that? I'm interested in doing something like that.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

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WOW, what a great supply of woods with great grains!!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

Looks like you're busy! Are you using a 3/4 or 1/2 inch blade? Are these out of the spaulting pit?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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If you look at the third picture down you can see both the log sled and the bandsaw on the right, Tom since it's a 14" bandsaw (riser a must) I'm using only 1/2" 3 tpi blades, the blades I get from a local supplier that makes them for me, $10.00 a pop.

Here is the sled


Here's the saw, along with the custom base I made for the saw.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

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Great way to obtain wood and congrats those boards look great


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks Norman


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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I see good things coming outta all this


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## freddy1962 (Feb 27, 2014)

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Nice, a lot of projects there.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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You handled it like a country gentleman. Get yourself a metal wand in the future?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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I've got one Tom but it only goes so deep, I don't know why mills don't wand just after each cut.


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## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

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I would not complain about the price as I just picked up eight 1×4x42 "S2S walnut and paid $67.00 +tax 
This should turn into some nice tables and such .
BTW how many board feet are we looking at ?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Kiefer I don't know the method used in calculating board feet so I honestly don't know.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

Board feet is 1 inch thick 4/4 By 12 inches. If the material is more say 8/4's then that would be x2.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Some nicely sliced boards there.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

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WOW. I can picture all kinds of neat boxes in that pile… with the natural edge, too!!..........Jim


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## Bigkahunaranch (Apr 9, 2014)

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Randy-
Did you take it to M&G in Huntsville ?
Or did you have some one in Austin mill the lumber?

Looks like you have a nice little stash there.

Since Koa has gotten to be so scarce, my absolute favorite is mesquite.

And my favorite woodworking trip is to the Mesquite festival in Fredricksburg, in October.

Cant wait to see some projects from that wood.

Thanks for sharing.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Big Kahuna I found a mill in Red Rock ran be a fellow named Gene Hahn his place is located around Highway 20 and 535 area, there's a couple out that way another located in Cedar Creek ran by a fellow Brandon Berdoll, but I had a brush with his customer service that I didn't like, Gene was very nice and great customer service, I'd recommend him to anyone.


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## leafherder (Jan 20, 2013)

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Looks like you got some good wood out of that old tree, thanks for keeping us updated with the regular status reports. I know I learned a lot - most important being to get the details in writing at the start.

Can't wait to see what you make with all this. Good Luck!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Ok those that were curious to the board feet, I just calculated it at 98 BF.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## hotncold (Mar 4, 2014)

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Wow Randy! That looks like a Mensa puzzle to me. 
Fantastic work!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Whoa! Nice! Going to be a favorite of mine. Lots of steps. How long does it take you without the pictures? LOL!


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## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

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Blackie, great job of explaining how to do this. I know how much time it takes to take the pictures, crop them, and write the commentary. You may find it easier to simply refer questions to this write-up than to keep doing the same answers over and over. You really have this system down pat!

I see you are using straight pieces in your splines. This method is an easy way to cut them on your bandsaw and have much less waste on precious spline material. The secret is that after each cut you flip the spline stock over to make another triangle. Keep boxing and keep posting.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks Big Al, I like that jig.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Very cool, Randy. Thnx for the detailed how-to. I may do my version of something like this in the future. After doing my "plain" version for a few Christmas gifts last year, I've been wanting to go the extra mile and do something similar to what you do. Good stuff man.


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

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Very nice explanation with great photographs to show your process. This is really helpful to show all the intricate work that actually goes into crafting one of your fine boxes, and would make a great sales aid to help customer appreciate your artistry. Thanks for sharing.


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## JayG46 (Apr 24, 2013)

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Thanks for sharing, Randy. This is a great tutorial of a really cool process that you've developed. Your valets are unique and I've always wondered how you managed to combine the two kinds of boxes. Keep up the good work.


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

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Favourited!


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## scrollgirl (May 28, 2010)

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Very beautiful!

Sheila


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Oh yes! It's gonna be funfunfun!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Yep Roger, I'll keep you entertained with my progress 

I plan on using OSB for the interior walls on the addition instead of sheet rock, sure wish I had done that to begin with on the building.


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

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Quite an extension for sure.


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

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How you gonna' act with all that nice shop expansion Randy? Adding on to your shop has to be fun doing it and it will be even more fun when completed and that moment arrives when you can say "all done"...


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Wow!

Good to see you're started! Very different from what I have had to do here. We have issues of frost lines and heaving. eg. Farmers have to check fields for stones that eventually get heaved to the surface.

An independent shed can be put on a pad that is anchored together with rebar. Called a floating pad. We can pour forms for support, but I have to go down 4 ft. Concrete has steadily risen in price.

What is the width between studs? Oh yeah you don't have to worry about snow loads. LOL!

Have a great time making that "big box!"


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Hey Tom, I'm going with 24 centers along with wind racing


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Is it plywood or osb walls?

If you go with osb thinl about cutting in diagnal corner bracing as it is only 2 more 2×4's for each corner but it gives a lot of strength?

Gotta go see a client.

Later


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

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OK OK where did the tree go?...and what is that on the left of your storage shed a R/C helo Pad?

Oh yes the new shed…. looking good !!


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## Randy_ATX (Sep 18, 2011)

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You're off to a great start! It's an exciting time for you. I'm going to try and make the woodworkers meeting next Tuesday - will you be there?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Robert, that was a Mesquite tree and it is now being used for my projects, I've already made a coffee table and end table from it, the rest of it is in my shop.

Randy, I'm going to try as well.


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

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looks like a lot of fun, wish I could come down and help.

I like the idea of upgrading to a 50A service, but what is the difference in cost between 50 Amp and 100 Amp? I'm just curious… I think of electricity like its storage- you can never have "too much".


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks Tooch, I'd sure welcome your help 

My shop is currently supplied with two 30 amp breakers at the main on the house each breaker is feeding two different sides of a double pole breaker box in the shop, the two breakers at the main aren't tied together which could potentially be a safety issue, I'm not even sure it's to code, I own the house and put them in and so I know that both breakers have to be thrown in order to perform any work on the shop, someone else working wouldn't know that, they make devices or clips that you can tie them together I just haven't done that but by removing both 30 amp breakers and putting a single 50 amp that would make it safe and would also drop the amperage from 60 to 50 while still providing adequate coverage.

I'm not an electrician but I'll try and answer your question the best I can Tooch, breaker boxes are rated to the wire size feeding them so you have to be careful you're not over loading the breaker box with more amperage than it's rated for, most of shop equipment aren't pulling that much amperage but when you have several running at the same time then amperage adds up and you want the breaker to be able to handle the load but in the same it's there for your protection as well, you'd want it to trip if over loaded, wire size is another contributing factor it's has to be large enough to carry the load that the breaker provides.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

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Looks great so far Randy. I'm so envious, I would love to add on to my shop also if our subdivision aloud it.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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One step at a time. Shouldn't those blocks be turned the other way??? Check this out:


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## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

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By golly Roger you are right you are very observant! I should have caught that one also! Although I'm sure they would hold up ok, but the inspector might not agree!


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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i would imagine that since randy is just doing a dry block foundation that it really doesn't matter in how he lays these block, now if he were using concrete and actually building a block wall then he would need to turn them over, but he is just using these block to get his floor up off the ground, so it really doesn't matter i don't think…and who knows he might have a reason for laying them as he has…with his block in place and things being level, things will fly now, if randy has a nail gun, he could have this done on one day…at least the frame up…depends on how many water breaks he takes….lol…


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Roger, are you talking about which way the holes should be facing? If so either direction you get the same strength hold but with this application with the flat side up you get more surface for the wood to sit on if you have the holes facing up then you're not going to have a good foundation for the wood to set on thus causing the 2×6 beams to crater where the thin edges are.

Grizz you are correct and I have a bud helping me so it's going nice and fast, the faster the better


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Nice to have help,

I've some stories about the people who helped me with my garden shed and in rehabbing my little barn. I will suggest going slow enough to not make mistakes. LOL!

I was able to correct the measuring mistakes made by my help. Oh yeah My friends also corrected my mistakes. LOL!

Now that I will be re sawing my logs and if all goes well new logs from the compost site I will have to make another shed.

May the force be with you!


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## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

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*Blackie*, your project is coming along nicely! Consider treated lumber on the sill plate. Thanks for the help with the finish recipe. I meant to say mineral spirits instead of thinner.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

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Wohoooyou must be like a child on Christmas eve.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

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Rnady its starting to take shape! just as a suggestion- I've normally nail down the joist hangers before I put up the outer joists. You can match & clamp the end pieces together and mark them both at the same time, making sur all marks line up.

Also, I just find it easier to pound in those little clips and nails when I'm on a work horse as opposed to being crouched down. Not sure if that would still be an option or if those pieces are pretty well attached already?

Good luck and take lots of photos- between you and Hoss I'm over-flowing with jealousy!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Thnx for clearing that up fellas. May your build be swift Randy, I know it'll seem like forever. Work safe buddy.


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## PaulHWood (Mar 26, 2012)

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CMU is stronger in compression with the face shells being utilized (ie proper orientation), and if it's in bending (which you are not), the face shell is all you count on.



> Roger, are you talking about which way the holes should be facing? If so either direction you get the same strength hold but with this application with the flat side up you get more surface for the wood to sit on if you have the holes facing up then you re not going to have a good foundation for the wood to set on thus causing the 2×6 beams to crater where the thin edges are.
> 
> Grizz you are correct and I have a bud helping me so it s going nice and fast, the faster the better
> 
> - Blackie_


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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WhoopWhoopWhoop!! Oh boy Oh boy!! Coming along nicely


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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things are looking great randy, i hope your weather stays good until you have the floor covered, and I'm glad to see you have a nail gun, when i built my shop and my house my nail gun sure saved my arm, i had just had surgery on my right elbow and didn't need to be swinging a hammer for all of that work, nail guns are one of the best inventions if you ask me, enjoy the day.


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## codemonkeyww (Jun 30, 2014)

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Man its really coming along!


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

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It's going to be a great shop. Congratulations.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

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What the guys above said. I'm curious though as to how you'll cover the transition between the two floors, rubber expansion joint?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Soba, they are pretty much butting together, tight joint, so instead of calking I'm going to use my own pre made putty by using saw dust and glue mixed then sanding it smooth than I'll come back over it with the gray garage floor paint to keep it smooth and protected.

I don't think I have to worry much about movement, I'm not even sure if that OCB movies at all but everything is anchored down with lag screws and nails.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

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Looking good, Randy!!


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## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

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Looking good/
Is that T&G OSB sheeting ?

Klaus


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

Looking good. Plumb and level. Again, nice to have help. 2×4 trusses? I have been comparing OSB and plywood for a lumber and lawn tractor shed. 1/2 the price of the plywood which I've always used. Work safe, not like me? LOL!


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## WoodNSawdust (Mar 7, 2015)

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> The AC is out, the 8000 BTU AC unit was covered in dirt and dust and will be replaced with an 18500 BTU AC with heat pump.


I am not a HVAC person but that seems like a very large BTU increase for the size of the expansion. I recall "Ask This Old House" show saying that the AC should be properly sized and not oversized.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

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Your addition is looking great. It's too late now, but I was thinking it would have been nice to run some electrical for an in floor receptacle for any stationary tools you might be planning to use.

Regardless, the addition is looking great.
Mike


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks all

Klaus, yes T/G 3/4 for the flooring, 7/16 for the walls and roof.

Tom the Trusses are 24 center 2×4's

WoodNsawdust, I figured on what you are saying but…. a human body generates 600 BTU alone, plus with all of the tools and the DC sucking the cold out and also it's the smallest 240 volt I could find, got a good deal on it, it was miss marked on the pricing at Lowes I saved $24.00 on the price.

Mike that would have been a great Idea, thanks, sure wish you have some in sooner LOL.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

RE: the floor mounted electrical. You can run some plastic pipe and anchor to the floor joists and there is still time. Or maybe romex if that is allowable?

Keeps the wires out of the way?


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

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Looks good,
I assume the replacement for the 8000 BTU A/C is 8500 BTU and not 18500 BTU?

Power, if its still needed you could feed from overhead then down on jack chain that way its off the floor area completely, on that I am not sure of the power consumption of your machines, but you could also add an in line Isolation swith and run two machines from the one feed.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks Tom and Robert on the electrical ideas, my building is but only 12' wide so in wall outlets should be OK, if I do decided to run an in floor outlet I can still do that pretty much anytime once I start the wiring.

Robert, old unit was an 8000, 115 volt it was just enough to cool the shop but now since I'm upgrading from a 115 / 120 volt the smallest in a 230 / 240 volt I could find is 18500 BTU.

I'm not sure why the box is labeled at 230 volt when I'll have 240 volt at the outlet.


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## PaulHWood (Mar 26, 2012)

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On the HVAC, my understanding is an oversized unit will not run long enough to remove the humidity. So you will be at temperature, but not at proper humidity. You may need to add a dehumidifier.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks Paul, I'll keep an eye on things there.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

*Gone*

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## scrollgirl (May 28, 2010)

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It's looking good. It is going to really be nice! 

Sheila


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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its looking great randy….


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

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That extra space will make a big difference. 
Show us the finish results too.
(Although the guy in picture seems to be doing all the work, don't see anyone else helping him .lol)


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## Edwin (Mar 11, 2010)

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Progress, looking good… Ed


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## maplerock (Jun 21, 2013)

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Nice! You will have it done before long and enjoying your deluxe space!


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## Randy_ATX (Sep 18, 2011)

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Great progress Randy! Missed you at the meeting Tuesday night but I can see you've been busy.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks all, Randy, I had planed on going but by the time I got ready to go it was already 8:00 so I decided to stay home.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Hey Randy,

Thanks for posting. I'm curious as to how you will adapt your roof lines? Looks like your bar clamps came in handy? LOL!


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

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I was wondering if you would put a flat roof or extend the current one. It's coming along rather fast!


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

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Looks real nice Randy, it'll be finished in no time


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Tom, we used an angle finder to get the correct pitch, I can tell you right now it's going to be a hard one shingling this roof with the pitch it has on it, I forgot what it was but it's steep, it's to late now as I thought out it after the rafters were built, I could have reduced the pitch and came under the old roof, live and learn, it prob would look better keeping the lines the same anyway.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Yep!

I'm lazy. I look for the easist methods. I have plans to attach a carport w/hip roof to my shop/barn. I'm also a woosie and slowing down. I use 2×6's with a lower pitch and attach a ceiling rafter to keep the walls from spreading. Allows for snow loads. And getting up on the roofs.

Are you attaching to existing roof or under the eve of the existing roof? My current plan is to go under my eve so I don't have to re roof the shop.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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We are attaching, not much going on right now though, chances and rain and the drizzle has us on hold, everything is covered up.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

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Hoy where are the latest up dates ? (No number 5 to be seen!) Has somebody called a stop work meeting? !!

I need my "shed fix" !!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Robert, Mother Nature called a (sit your butt behind the TV) stop work meeting  Rained pretty much all weekend, I finely got a break in the afternoon on Sunday.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Full throttle ahead Randy. Looking good.


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## PaulHWood (Mar 26, 2012)

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Building your own trusses is one of the more fun aspects when I built my shed. Thought it would be harder, but once you build one, you have a template.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

*Gone*

Gone


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

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Wide open goes Randy's shop. Now we can see how much of an upgrade that's going to be!


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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to bad you had the rain, hope things will move along now and you can get this framed up and roofed.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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One step forward! I'm still curious as to how you will do your roof.

To be continued….....


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

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Looking good! I've enjoyed your posts and wish you the very best with this ambitious project.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Tom, Rafters made and sat aside.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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i think what tom is wondering is how your going to tie the new roof into the old roof, i think if it were me, i would cover the whole roof in metal, im not a shingle expert so i dont know how to tie 2 roofs together…i guess there must be the way to interlock the shingles maybe you lay them so that you start on the bottom and work your way to the top and then fill in the rest…


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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I'm not an expert on roofing but I have some basic knowledge on it, the old shingles will be lifted and the new shingles will be put under the old shingles moving from left to right starring at the edge of the roof working your way up to the peak, staggering the shingles so that the cut grooves are not lined up with the bottom shingles, it's hard to describe, YouTube might have some videos on how it's done.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Hey,

Thanks for the clearing of the question guys. I've built a couple of houses and several buildings. Age of the shingles can be a problem You're going to use a water barrier under the shingles?

Going back out to the shop and box up the *&&^&*** band saw blades as the welds appear to be Screwed up!

GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Yes to the barrier, sorry you're having so much trouble with the blades Tom.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Looked for a cheaper solution? Sent email to the company. Thanks.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

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Rain yeah that manages to "Pull The Plug" here as well. 
Its even worse if you dont even have a shed to work in.

I did not even check out the roof, too busy sticky beaking inside.

I built a shingle roof pub one afternoon thats the extent of my knowledge regarding single roofs










Lotta fun










It was for a friends daughters school project.










Anyway enough of the side issues, the shed is now progressing well !!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Rain sux right now. You're coming along nicely w/your shop. Full throttle ahead. Work safe buddy.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

*Gone*

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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Lookin Good!

Are you going to put a skirt around the base?


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

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Big progresse there!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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I'm going to use squared lime stone rock the base in Tom.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

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moving right along randy
bet you are getting excited

looks real nice


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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so after shooting in those lag bolts with your nail gun, your warranty might be no good….ive never tried it myself but i bet the kick back was a real screamer… looking forward to seeing the roof on…what is your weather looking like the next few days..i guess after tomorrow you will be good…


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

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Slick…!
I'll bet you are looking forward to your first project in it once it is complete….


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

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Good progress, Randy!! I'd like to do that to my barn, too!!

Jim


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

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Hey hey whats going on here?

Have you have changed the series and tried to lose me?

Not that easy !!

Looking pretty dam good there Blackie

Now whats with the dopey step brothers bunk beds video !! ....absolutely of no relevence to your fine work
What a pair of never left home klutzs they are. They should be sent to Ojo Caliente for some work experience!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Robert without the crashing bunk beds of course in the video, I was referring to the extra space with extra activities LOL


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

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OK I missed the point completely,..... extra space, well thats always good !!

Keep up the good work !!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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I didn't word it right, I re-edited my statement line


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks for all the comments everyone.


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## Notw (Aug 7, 2013)

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i was hoping you were going to leave it open air and then not need dust collection anymore


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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i think leaving the walls open is a great idea, put up a camera and do daily pod casts for all of us to watch you work in the new shop randy…..i think its a great idea…huh….


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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It'd be kind of hard on my AC to cool my shop and my back yard as well eh? hahah


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Movin on out. It's very exciting doing this.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

*Gone*

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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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looks great randy, those little trusses are heavier then they look huh….yea i still remember doing mine, when i built my shop i had my 2 sons to help me, it was a great time….glad you got it done, get it sheeted now and the decking on with some tar paper and you will be dried in….


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

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You got the framing almost done, Randy. Once it is enclosed you'll be weather proof!!

Jim


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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BIG SMILE!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

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For a one man show for the day thats a very impressive effort.

Funny thing is I dont see any empy Buds lying around anywhere !

Take it easy or I may have to rename you Patron Mk2


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

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looking good randy. It'll be nice to have that overhang to keep any rain water away from the foundation blocks, too.


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

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Serious progress done!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Yes yes yes!!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

*Gone*

Gone


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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"I don't want a nickle just want to ride my motor pickle" Arlo Gutherie.

Looking like a shop sir! As I said before good to have good friends.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

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Sat a day off? well a mention of a Harley too, now thats what I call taking it easy!!

Framing:- Looks good
Roof work:- looks good
All set for not being there !

Now I still need to know what the rectangular item is in the corner of your fence line.

Enjoy Sat.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks Tom and Robert, that's one of those Rubbermaid storage sheds, I also have a 6' x 16' lean-to on the back side of my old workshop and another 10' x 8' metal storage shed in which I use for my finishing and wood storage.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

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Keep on keeping on!.................the end is now in sight. Can't wait for the bash at the grand opening!!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Wow Randy. I've been catching up on here and you're progress has been fun to watch. I know this is very exciting.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

*Gone*

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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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its looking great randy, before you know it you will be done and will be getting your shop back together and making sawdust…im sure you have had fun with this, lots of things to learn, and you had plenty of help along the way, no one giving you any slack on how to do it….LOL…but that is how we learn…thanks for bringing us along…its fun watching you add on….


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

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much gooder randy

how wast your ride


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

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First up an itch that need scratching:-
Picture 2 at about 11 O'Clock on the left of the rubbermaid shed there is a rectangular object on a pole, what is it?

The bike Run:- where are the pictures please?

Finally your shed up grade work:- all looking good soon you will never know it was an extension of the original building.
A very well planned and constructed addition!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Yes Grizz, and I was solo both Sunday and today  I know the basics and the wall sheathing isn't hard though I did make a mistake the first panel I installed correctly but the second panel I had a brain fart and cut the window opening with the panel upside down and so the tongues was mismatched, I resolved it by using a backer board on the whole seam scrap 1×4 pieces I had and used them to screw into, I placed the backer board on the inside, I wasn't going to say anything but oh well and yes we live and learn but I was able to correct the mistake.

David, I got rained out Sat, didn't ride, I haven't visited your blog lately David I need to go see what your progress is.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

Thought you were gonna ride the motor pickle? Movin along. Are you going to insulate the walls? heat and noise?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Yes Tom, I'm planning on using 7/16 OSB for the interior walls as well unlike the original building I used sheet Rock, but will put sheet rock on the ceiling, once the exterior is done, then next will come the re wiring, along with upgrading the #10 I have running from the main to the shop with #6 and installing some 240 outlets.


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

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Lookin good…! there is nothing nicer than having more shop space…and more….and more…!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Coming right along Randy. I know you're excited.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Once the addition is complete and I have things in order, my first and most important task at hand is to build a nice Miter Saw Station, I've already been looking at the different versions, so many to choose from.


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## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

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Looking good and near outside completion which will help in case of wet weather at least you can progress on the inside stuff .
Sure is different build then what we have to do here .

Klaus


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## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

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*Randy*, great box you are building.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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I remember you saying you wanted a wall that you could hang anything anywhere.


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

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looking good for sure. it has been fun to watch your shop grow!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

*Gone*

Gone


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

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It is looking better each day Randy..It appears to be weathertight with the exception of the gable end.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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looking really good randy,now that its closed in you can work on the inside regardless of the weather…im glad to see your furry friend doing an inspection…ive heard they are really good inspectors and will bark out the orders when something needs to be done..lol….thanks for the blog, its always fun to watch someone else work…lol….


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## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

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Randy, keeping at the job is the hard part. Looks like you are making great progress.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

Looking good! How did the interlacing of shingles go?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Tom they are weaving in and out but due having to match up to the old shingles it's taking double the time it should normally take to lay shingles, we should have been done in a half a day.

Thanks Alan and Grizz, Greg, I'm leaving the top part of the gable end open until I get the ceiling up than I'll use that opening to put the insulation in, I currently have it tarped.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

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Enjoying watching your progress. Like Griz, it's always fun to watch someone else, work.


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## wncguy (Jan 26, 2012)

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Randy - you are to be congratulated on your dedication & progress! 
Now's the time to make sure you include anything you will regret later if you don't do it.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

Another idea I have had for heat reduction in the shop. Putting in a solar operated vent fan. No electrical cost and managing heat which is a factor in Texas?

Were the old shingles hard to get under?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks Tom I'll put thought into one as well, might have to co e later, trying to stay in budget, no shingles are working along with us, just need to come back under them with calked tar


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

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Blackie,

Your work has confirmed my comment "after some time you will never know its an extension of the original building"

I was looking at the images and saw the headless boy standing on the path, thinking it was some sort of foul play at hand I was thinking of sending the CSU around to pay a visit.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Robert all except the roof bump, shingles mismatch and the different size and variations in the windows. LOL


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## macatlin1 (May 5, 2010)

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Low clouds and mist is the best time for doing shingles. Sure beats 100 degree+ and sun!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Not on this roof Macatlin, I don't recall what the pitch was but it's steep and with the mist made it slick also today it's pouring rain so doesn't look like it's getting finished today either.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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You're moving right along Randy. Doing a fine job.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

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Hey I dont see the second mandatory exit to comply with the building code!

Or is it at the back near that mysterious rectangular item you have on a post next to the rubbermaid shed (tee hee)

Better power up the jig saw !!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

*Gone*

Gone


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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make sure your careful with this electricity stuff, you dont want any shock surprises…lol…when i use to work doing maintenance, i worked with a nice guy , but, whenever i was doing something with wiring he would sneak up behind me and zing me…he always thought it was funny…i didnt care for it that much…lol….im glad all is going well…thanks for the blog randy….


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Grizz,

There are idiots everywhere.

Randy you're gonna be powered up and closed in. That's gotta feel real good!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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It'll be a shocking experience when it's all done Grizz 

Can't wait Tom, working as quick as I can.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Be safe. Get wired, then, let there be light and power…. Oh-ho-oh-oh-oh!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

*Gone*

Gone


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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your doing good….glad the rain let up for you, thanks for the blog here…..once this part is done then i think your putting up your sheet goods…..OSB if i remember right…or is that just on one wall for ease of hanging things…..well carry on sir, your doing a great job….now if your planning on working tomorrow, i do think your entitled to double time…per union rules…..


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Grizz, it all depends on which way the wind is blowing, being retired gives me that option. LOL


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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oh that is right, so you will have to look at the retirees section to see what type of compensation your entitled to…hhhmmm, if i remember right, there is a reduction in pay…so if i were you, i would make sure the grill is going and put on some rib eyes, or brats…and of coarse some beans…but being from texas, you better do some barb-q ..maybe a brisket…oh im making myself so hungry…and i dont have any of the things ive mentioned….darn…well i hope to see some pictures of the grill smokin….


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

Looks like you're progressing and Murphy is sitting it out. Good thing you don't have a building inspector. LOL!

Might be good to do a little blueprint drawing for history should you ever want to move. :<)

I'm pretty sure you have a smile on your face. Better than half way through construction.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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More power…. Carry on Randy.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

*Gone*

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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

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LQQking better and better every day….!


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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glad you figured out your electrical problem, those can be a real pain if you don't have things labeled, all the rest looks good, my only comment is that your opening where your AC is, the bottom plate is just one 2×4…with your unite being pretty heavy, it would have been better to have it beefed up some…I'm one to always make sure there is structural strength….just a thought….thanks for the blog update…


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks Greg and Grizz, the AC unit will have knee bracing on the outside with between a 1/4 to 3/4 drop toward the back for run off, plus that 2×4 is just under 24" sitting on two jacks and a cripple, it ain't going anywhere 

I have to say that retirement has made me soft, I'm not used to this kind of work, my feet and keens are taking a beating.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

LOL! I'm not the only Woosie! I'm actually doing strength training to get into shape for milling with my chainsaw mill.

Pictures of additional space looking good, and now I can see the supports in your trusses.

I checked out LED flood lamps?


> ?


 Whoa! Pretty expensive. Wanted to improve work lighting. Decided to use my lamps that have a porcelain base ( used for turkey roosts in winter w infrared heating lamps ) with a 100 watt florescent. Does the job

What size ducting are you running for dust collection?

As Stmpy Nubbs says "Put your feet up and have a cool one, cause you've earned it my friend!"


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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LEDs aren't that pricy Tom, the cans are $8.00 and the trim kits. Are $19.00, what are you considering to be expensive?

I'm going to be running 4" pipe for the DC plumbing.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Looked at LED floods at Menards ( Like Home Depot only it's my home away from home.) 27 bucks! that was for a 75 watt LED flood. They are suppose to last longer than we have to live but????

Cans probably not so expensive, didn't need those.

what size is your Dust collector motor?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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I'm using the HF DC so I believe it's 1HP

Tom, these are the trim kits I am using, not flood.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-5-in-and-6-in-White-Recessed-LED-Trim-with-90-CRI-2700K-CER6730AWH27/204726945


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Coming along Randy. Keep on truckin.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

Nice job! I know what it sounds like when the insulation first gets put into the wall. Quiet and muffled. LOL! Around here I have to use staple ties and line up my work, so it will pass electrical inspection. I did notice the nail plates. Good!

I'm sure you know this but never put a junction box where you cannot get to the wiring.

Got some more spalted maple today, and I almost screwed up my new 5/8ths blade with a nail in the walnut log. fortunately I was moving slowly.

You are getting closer dude! LOL!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Let there be light… Whoop Whoop!!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Tom, I retired from the city Electric department but only in the high voltage, substation Maintenance part, 345,000 volts on down, which is a bit different than the residential and commercial side of it, so when the code inspector came out, I mentioned this to him and he pretty much gave me a thumbs up, no attic inspection but he did try to ding me on an outdoor light right at the entry door, I just pointed up to the peak of my gable end of my house with two flood lights facing down and he said OK you're all good


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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things are looking good, good job on the sheet rock..i hate that stuff, but i guess its a necessary evil…things are going well and soon you will be done…making saw dust and having fun….here i am a poet, making some rhymes and didnt even know it , so get to work and have a great time…


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

You're a high voltage kind of guy! LOL! Just occurred to me …dust collection piping? Are you going to run any pipe in the ceiling to get it out of the way?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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I'm thinking yes Tom, I already have a run that was cut when the new section was added, I'll prob continue it on into the new section, with the header in the way I'll have to 45 it down then back up though.


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

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Whoa, you've done a lot of progress. Impressive.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

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Looks like a lot is happening.
Looks like it is going to be a wonderful place.
Keep up the good spirit.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

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You're almost there now!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Wow, you're going full throttle! Coming along nicely. WhoopWhoop!!


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

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Looking good, Randy You can never have too many outlets. I like that you are putting them high like that. Makes more sense, especially when you get older like me and have to bend down to plug stuff in!!

Cheers, Jim


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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looks really good randy, the paint on the OSB really brightens the room, im interested in how well those can lights brighten things up, what will you put in the cans…enjoy finishing things up, you will be into getting the shop back into shape very soon…


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks everyone

Jim the outlets are 40" off the floor.

Hey Grizz, thanks, actually I'm not real sure yet on comparing the LED's to the Fluorescent lighting I currently have now but with the cans I will no longer have those fluorescent fixtures hanging down from the ceiling, the lighting I'm putting in the cans is LED's


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

Hope it's not the cans themselves. Lookin Good. When you stop woodworking you can add plumbing and rent it out???? Looks like a great place to work.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks Tom, I don't Think I will ever stop woodworking, it was due to my woodworking in sales that I was able to build the addition


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

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It is looking good, Randy!!


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## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

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*Blackie*, I'll bet it smells new … like wet plaster, fresh paint. and clean cut wood. Nice job of sticking to the project and getting another step finished. A lot of things have to go on hold when you are working day after day on projects like this.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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Thanks everyone,

Yes, Alan it does smell like new fresh paint, all is coming together and I'm actually having fun doing this type of work, I've managed to lose 15 pounds in the process which is a positive thing as it was the doctors order, otherwise I would have been put on high blood pressure meds.

I have a hand full of new customers that I've had to put on hold since my shop is non operational ATM, I'm working fast and hoping to get things back up by the end of this month.


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## DonnaMenke (Sep 20, 2006)

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Looks great, Randy. You are doing a very professional job. I love all the electrical outlets- better than my hundreds of feet of heavy-duty extension cords. Concratulations.


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## Randy_ATX (Sep 18, 2011)

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Great job keeping at it, Randy. Turned out very nice.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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so glad to see it progressing along, just figure out why those 2 lights are not working….you can run the AC and have a cool place to work and you will be a happy man…things look great…


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Looking good Randy. I like the AC in the wall there. I should do that so I don't have to cover 1 of my 2 windows I have in mine. Soon there will be the buzzing of saws, and dust collection..


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

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LOOKS GREAT, TIME TO NOW GET YOUR CABINETS MADE, opppss caps…looks great randy, yep i knew you would have the bracing outside, i was thinking of the actual bottom plate in your wall, since those units tend to be so heavy i was saying to have a double 2×4 on the bottom…but im sure its good, i always tend to overbuild…rather be over then under….have a great night….


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

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Randy,

Looks great! Once you get some equipment generating heat and the Texas spring and summer going, you'll warm up a bit??

It will be interesting to see what you do with the space. I'm sure it's gonna be first rate.


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

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It is really coming along nice and lookin good…The base cabinets will put the icing on the cake, the gravy on the rice…


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

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Coming along just super!!It will almost be to nice to get sawdust all over it!!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

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Oh yes. I feel better that you put those braces under that ac too. You'll be chillin out in the shop soon.


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