# MAKING A WOODEN GEARED CLOCK



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Getting started, day 1*

I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.










*Reducing the fear factor*
I wanted to blog the build for fun and for those who have been thinking about building a wooden clock and who would be interested in seeing what is involved and how difficult it might be. This isn't a tutorial, but I will do my best to document how I produce the parts, including any errors I'm sure to make along the way.

Even though this is my first wooden geared clock, after seeing several posted on LJ and many videos and some websites offering plans, I have become aware that no advanced skills are necessary to make the very simple plan I have selected to get started.

*Materials used*
The clock will be made mainly from Baltic birch ply and some brass rods for axles, some lead weights (buckshot?) and some threaded rod. Most wooden gear clock aficionados prefer to use solid wood gears and frames as it looks much better than plywood, but solid hardwoods can warp so much care has to be taken with moisture content, wood grain direction, etc. while plywood is not subject to this problem and therefore lets you concentrate on just cutting out, drilling and gluing the various components. That should be enough of a challenge for a first clock as far as I'm concerned.

*First component 'Winding barrel' - 5 parts*
This is part is driven by a cylindrical weight at one end and a handle at the other. The handle is pulled down to 'wind' the clock, that is to pull the weight on the other end to it's highest point. This is the component that powers the clock. This seemed like a good part to start with to get a little practice with my scrollsaw before cutting out the the more difficult gears.

*Getting started*
My first problem. Each of the 5 required winding drum parts calls for 3mm ply and I could only get 4mm thickness. I was able to reduce each side of the 4mm ply by 0.5mm on each side using 120 grit sand paper on my drum sander. So here is the ply and patterns ready to go. I then used spray adhesive to attach the patterns and then cut the workpieces on my miter saw.



















*Scroll sawing the pattern*
I haven't used my scroll saw much lately, so I was pretty rusty at the start, but I got a lot better and faster after awhile and everything went well except for the first one which I managed to mess up a little and it even separated on the outer rim. I think I can repair it fairly easy, so no big deal. I got all 5 parts done and I put them together to show you how it will look after glue-up. As you can see there are 2 tracks for the string to run on. The handle on one end and the weight on the other.

It would have been a lot faster and a bit more accurate to glue the 5 wheels together while centering them with a drill bit and then cutting out the inside spaces all at one time. This was suggested by the designer, but I did them individually to get some cutting practice, which I'm glad I did.





































That's it for today. I am doing the work sequence in an order to suit myself. I can make whatever components I want and then assemble them at the end. There are still 4 more components that will be part of the winding wheel, but with different ply thicknesses.

I am using a lot of different tools, but this clock can be built with a bandsaw and a saber saw for example, although a disk sander is also very handy trimming outside gear edges to perfection.

Thanks for joining in and I hope you find it a worthwhile read.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Neat. I have always wanted to build one. 
This will be fun to watch.

Steve


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Following along, Mike. Looks like fun, and maybe demystifying! Thanks for the blog.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Looks like a very interesting project and a challenging one,but I'm sure you will knock it out of the park Mike. I look forward to following your blog.Thanks for sharing this with us.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


A wooden gear clock is on my "someday to build" list. Thanks for taking time to share your journey - I'm interested!


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Hi Mike. I have often thought I'd like build one to, but the though of cutting all those teeth with our a gear hog in the mill kept me away. I'd like to see your progress and approach to the teeth cutting.
I'm wondering if the gear banks could be turned on the lathe on a center bolt and then using the index head to mark the tooth centers ( but it only has 24 divisions and I know there are more teeth than that on the big gears. 0

cheers, my friend!!....................Jim


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## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Interesting project! Looking forward to follow your work


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


They are fun to build just take your time. The clocks I built I used baltic birch for the gears and actual clock frame.There are two big reason for that.
1. stability as you pointed out you want things to stay straight and moisture really affects the clockworks.
2. strength the clock teeth can have a big strain on some of them and if grain direction is wrong the teeth can break off. You need that lamination.

Enjoy


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## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


That looks like a nice challenge Mike .
I will be watching your progress .

Klaus


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


This is going to be good. Looking forward to seeing it progress Mike.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


This will be fun to watch Mike. I am also among those who have always thought about building a wooden clock. Years ago one of my boatbuilding apprentices built one from his own design. It worked not badly for a while but wasn't quite stiff enough and had sag problems. I think he went on to redesign and rebuild to fix the issues. Anyway it struck me way back then as something I'd like to do but when it came to picking my battles, as alas we all must do, it ended up on the cutting room floor.
You just may get me interested again …..... I will be watching.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


I will follow this till the end of time. Interesting.


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## hunter71 (Sep 4, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


I have had many comments about "patients" in the building of my trucks and such, but I think this requires more than I use. I'll be watching Mike.


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## tomd (Jan 29, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


I'm in on this one too.


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## chief101 (Oct 30, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


It will be neat following this project. Thanks in advance Mike.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


I love these clocks, great start and will follow your progress


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Geez Mike, You explore all the territory I want to try ;-) Coopered buckets, other neat stuff and now wooden clocks. I have that on my gonna do some day list too.

Seems like I am always bogged down in other activities and home repairs. Only wood working I have done lately is concrete forming. ;-( Last week my Skilsaw was cutting concrete ;-(

Looks like fun. Looking forward to seeing how it goes together. It will be interesting to see if I really wanna do this ;-)q


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## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Hi Mike, I'll be watching with interest. I too have been wondering about a similar project, and I currently have 2 magazines in front of me that may also be of interest to you. Both are from Fox Chapel Publishing, Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts, and both contain information on producing the required wooden gear wheels. The first one is Issue 42, published in 2011. The second one is a current publication with a photo of part of the clock gears on the front cover. It is on the magazine shelves right now, and is titled Woodworking Projects Gizmos & Gadgets.
Looks like they were doing a lead-in to prepare all of us for your blog. 
It should be an interesting project for many of us (certainly will be for me).


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## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


I'm glad to see you started a new project and want to share this. I will follow the building process!!

When I saw the first tilted (I phone problem) picture I had to laugh about the title of the clock. I think I have to wait a quarter our or maybe three ours and the picture will be rotated a quater?

Mike I wish you a lot of pleasure building this clock. Have fun,


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## JR45 (Jan 26, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


I'll be watching with interest.
Jim


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Thanks for this response guys. I had a hunch that others might have been thinking about building a wooden gear clock.

Although there are many videos of the building process on the net I'm always left wishing that there were enough details to give me a better idea of building one and how the various components are made and what each one does.

I have to admit that I don't much about mechanics in general and especially gears. My knowledge of how clocks function is also limited to just a little theory. I am hoping this build will give me a better idea of how these clocks actually work and if I get interested enough maybe I will eventually be able to design one of my own.


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## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Like many have said, This has been for a l-o-n-g time on my want to build list. Looking forward to watching your progress.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


I wanted to give better replys to some of the above comments, so here they are.

*Jim* I will show you in the blog how to cut the teeth very accurately. Many folks are now using computer controlled routers and also lasers to do this work. That is perfectly ok, but I prefer a hands on approach using my scroll saw. Not better or maybe not as good, but more fun in my opinion.

*Bruce* I would like to make a clock with solid hardwoods with laminated workpieces glued up with pie shaped pieces and the grain running from from the outside edge straight into the center. I may try that for my next clock. Meanwhile I will stick to the ply for all the good reasons you stated. I might also explore using ply as the core and veneering the outsides with different species to enjoy the benefits of both worlds.

*Bob* I am very tempted to take a trip over to your place and get you going on the woodworking, especially since you are blessed with your own trees there. I would like to show you how to shirk your DIY duties and become a free man!

*John* Thank you, but I have my plan for now. I am also doing some research on the net to learn a little about gear ratios and mechanics, but that will be for future projects if I want to continue. As you might have noticed I have quite a short attention span and I don't tend to stick to any one branch of woodworking very long. I am hoping that I will someday be able to combine the different skills I'm learning to make something wonderful. I think it would be fun to make some gizmos too.

*Jan* Very frustrating. I rotated the photo in edit mode, but it still came out wrong. Photos taken vertically don't work on LJ for some reason. They always post sideways. We are all slaves to the limitations of the digital world!


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## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


About the photo again. For you very frustrating as you said. The reason I mentioned it isn't that it is vertically posted. The name of the clock it was that made me laugh. *Rotara*


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Ah, obviously my brain is not rotating.Thanks for the explanation Jan.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Mike, I'll leave the light on for you ;-) Too bad we can't just buy a new house when they need attention. Leave it all behind. totally new shop and the whole 9 yards ;-) Yes, I am blessed with trees. Have a small pile of maple logs I cut a few years ago. Another that is down the needs to be "lumbered" and 2 or 3 more that are dying that could be "lumbered." Lots of geared clocks out there if I can get the waste removed ;-))


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Bob, it is fun to turn green wood if you get the time for that.


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


I'll be watching Mike, should be fun. I have thought about this for a while. I need to brush up on my scroll saw as well. This is going to interesting. Thx


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Mike, I think everyone wants to build one of these. I am no exception. This is going to be very interesting and I know that you will enjoy it very much.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Thanks for posting. Looking forward to the build.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Thanks Ken, Charles and Ratchet. I just hope it actually works after I get it put together!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Get er done Mike.


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


I'm late to this party but am glad you are posting this build.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


Yes Mark, I am having fun in the shop and on my computer. Glad to have you along for the ride.


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## oneness (May 1, 2016)

stefang said:


> *Getting started, day 1*
> 
> I have been wanting to make a wooden geared clock for some time now and I finally got around to buying some plans for one. I bought them from a German named Christopher Blasius from his website Holzmechanik. Sorry about the bad photo. Iphone problem.
> 
> ...


nice clock !


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*The Frame- Day 2*

*2nd Todays Work*
Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.



















*Drilling Tips*
I got some good advice from a wooden clock video. It was recommended that good quality brad point bits should be used, as accuracy of the holes for the various axles is very important. Unfortunately I couldn't find quality drills in the 1/2 sizes called for in the plan so I had to buy a cheap set that had everything I needed at a cost of under $10. If I had been able to buy the good ones it would have cost be around $60. Prices here are about double of what everyone else pays, so maybe not a problem for you. Only time will tell (pun) if it really is a problem.

Here are the finished pieces together with some small items the same thickness that will be attached to the frame and the winding barrel (1st blog). The last photo shows how it will be glued together. The holes are for axels to hold the various gears and also a couple of screw holes to mount it on the wall with.



















*Clock Accuracy*
You might wonder just how accurate these wooden gear clocks are. This one is supposed to be off by about 2 min. in a 24 hr. period. It has to be rewound every 24 hrs. so no big deal. The winding is very easy. It's just to pull the handle attached to the string down on the left side of the clock and that raises the weight on the right side, which drives the clock for a new 24hrs.

Personally I'm not too worried about absolute accuracy. The fun of this type of clock is seeing it run, that is, seeing the pendulum swing back and forth and the escapement gear and other gears moving. we are otherwise surrounded by clocks on our computers, wristwatches, mobil phones and the kitchen stove, so we don't need the exact time from this clock, just the kinetics.

I should mention that you can also buy plans from the clock designers for kinetic sculptures. Some of these are very nice, but they due tend to have things waving about. Maybe too much of a good thing. For that reason I think a clock strikes a good balance with enough movement to be interesting, but not so much as to be distracting.

Thanks for reading!


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## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


Yes Mike interesting. I'm a woodworker 

You also have to grapple with the space you have, but alos this time you succeeded.


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## Notw (Aug 7, 2013)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


Very interested in this build, I've wanted to build one of these clocks for a long time. Great work and great blog thus far!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


Never a problem holding my interest Mike,you always do very interesting projects and explain them very well with photos and a great written explanations. I can already see the fine detail you put into your work on the beginning pieces of this cool clock. Thanks for sharing this project with us,I'm really enjoying this blog.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


Thanks Jan, Notw, and Jim. Yes, space is a problem. I wasn't able to buy small pieces of the Baltic birch. I was offered to buy just half platters, but I bought whole ones instead in various dimensions. The seller cut them in half for me. They are still pretty cumbersome for my limited space. Kind of funny that I have so many tools that I don't have room for the materials I need to build stuff with.


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## Ted78 (Dec 3, 2012)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


I've pondered trying a wooden clock but never quite had the gumption to try it. I'll live vicariously through you and follow this build and then ponder it some more.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


Looking back again on your project gallery, I can see why you are into this clock. You like the challenges and strive for the end result. I have to say the scroll saw work looks great. To me, it is already starting to look complicated. Keep up the progress as we wait for part 3. 
I happen to like spray glue for certain projects, but I agree there are times I get it on everything. Lol.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


That is cool, Mike. I watched a video on another design and it is getting me interested. I don't know if I could cut that many teeth on the scroll saw…........that machine is my real weakness. Now if I could hob them in the mill, I would jump right on it!!

Cheers, my friend. You sure do some fantastic work!!.....................Jim


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


Thanks Guys.

*Jim* I think scroll sawing skill is one of those muscle memory things. I am often amazed watching others who are very good at it, but I know that with a small amount of theory and practice just about anyone can get good enough at it to cut just about any project. I feel I can cut just about anything, but it might take me a lot longer than those who are more proficient. My biggest problem is that I get easily hypnotized while cutting from staring constantly at the blade. This is mainly a problem only when I am cutting larger parts. It does help some if the pattern lines are red instead of black like the saw blade. It does help a lot to have a good quality scroll saw too and easier to use, but I could do about anything with my old Delta scroll saw that I can do with the Excalibur.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


Looks like you're doing a great job on the pieces, Mike. This is fun to watch. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


Nice progress Mike.
You know you can always mount the patterns with hot hide glue.


----------



## hunter71 (Sep 4, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


Progressing well Mike.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


I wouldn't say wordy. Interesting, informative and complete. Looks like you are coming along nicely. Are you tracking approximately how many hours this project takes?


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


Thanks everyone.

*Paul* I did consider using hot glue for the patterns, but went with the spray this time. My gripe with the spray is that it is a bit messy on the fingers, but so is the hot glue. The difference is that the hot glue is easy to wash off and the spray isn't. I did find that salad oil, sunflower oil in this case, did the job really well, so I'm taking some out to the shop with me today.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


I find that spray adhesive, because it remains soft and sticky, produces a little blob of sticky dust at the very point where the blade is cutting and you want to see the line well. Hide glue which dries hard doesn't do that. I still use spray sometimes when I need to do a small part quickly.

I put the upside down pattern on a stick or scrap in my trash can, spray it there and pick it up with a small scrap stick or tweezers. .... don't get it on my fingers.


----------



## Notw (Aug 7, 2013)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


I like spray adhesive then after you're done cutting, just warm it up with a hair dryer and the pattern peels back off


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


Nice progress Mike and I am watching this all with interest .
A small shop space is not all bad and seem to stay a lot cleaner and well organized I have been there making lawn furniture in a 12' x19' garage .

Klaus


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...





> I find that spray adhesive, because it remains soft and sticky, produces a little blob of sticky dust at the very point where the blade is cutting and you want to see the line well. Hide glue which dries hard doesn t do that. I still use spray sometimes when I need to do a small part quickly.
> 
> I put the upside down pattern on a stick or scrap in my trash can, spray it there and pick it up with a small scrap stick or tweezers. .... don t get it on my fingers.
> 
> - shipwright


Paul, Is that true for both liquid and hot hide glues?


----------



## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


Looking great Mike. You commented on the accuracy, but once you get the clock working, and the working surfaces of the gears become a bit burnished from wear, you should be able to improve the accuracy by adjusting the pivot to pendulum distance. There have also been a few comments on following the pattern lines accurately, so here is a lighting tip that I have found helpful.

*Light up your pattern line* by-John Harris, Sun City, Calif.
Scrollsawing a pattern line sometimes causes a perception problem. The black line and black blade visually merge, and you can't tell exactly where your blade is positioned along the line.
Place a lamp so that your blade casts a right-angle shadow on the workpiece as shown. 









Now, you can use the point of the 90° angle formed by the blade and its shadow as a visual reference rather than trying to distinguish between the blade and the line.

I've found that it does offer some advantage, but I also like your suggestion of using a different colour for the pattern lines.
I'm staying tuned.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


*Paul*I had forgotten why I used spray adhesive rather than hyde glue. I bought the spray adhesive because I was worried about the water in the glue might stretch the pattern paper and that worried me since the gear teeth have to be very precisely done. I'm not saying I was right about this, but I thought it wise to error on the side of caution in this case. You are so right, hhg does a better job.

The stickiness is not really a problem because I'm using a #5 saw blade, however I can see that it would gum up a very fine blade.

*John*Thanks for your helpful and clever tip, but I use a magnifying light with a florescent tube that works really well I didn't have any problem cutting the gear teeth today as you can see from my latest blog on the subject.


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


Great post and information. I look fwd to seeing more on this project….


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


Thanks Ken.


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


I have found that the body of this kind of clock must be perfectly vertical otherwise the pendulum will swing for a short time and then will stop. You might have to put the clock a (very) little askew to compensate for imperfections (whether in the design or in the making).
If the length of the pendulum is not adjustable, you can slighly change the mass. I have seen a video where they fine tune Big Ben in London (depending of the temperature) by adding or subtracting coins (pennies) on the pendulum.

note that the pennies are not placed at the bottom of the pendulum. Placing them higher (in the middle?) change the equivalent length of the pendulum.
In a theoretical pendulum, the rod would have no mass and the pendulum mass would be concentraded in one point, it is not the case with the real pendulum and it is why it works.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


I really admire your patience, I think I had screamed and ran out of the work shop by now…
So many details, so little room for mistake.
Hats of.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


*Sylvain* The pendulum is adjustable via a threaded rod. I will show it in another blog.

*Mads* Not patience, just fun. I probably would loose my patience if all the lines were straight though.


----------



## oneness (May 1, 2016)

stefang said:


> *The Frame- Day 2*
> 
> *2nd Todays Work*
> Materials were prepared for the frame cutouts. The 18mm (a little less than3/4") birch this time. There wasn't enough space to cut the half platters so the table saw was used as a work table to cut off what I needed with my saber saw. the platter was then divided them up the bandsaw and the patterns were attached with adhesive First the holes in the pattern were drilled. I tried to do this very accurately and I think they came out ok. The scroll saw cutting also went well. the lighted magnifying glass on my scroll saw really helps to maintain accurate cuts.I also remade the one part for the winding barrel that I messed up last time.
> ...


spray adhesive works well


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*

*How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.

*Having To Prioritize Due To Material Problems*
Some of the other wheels call for 6.5mm thickness which was not available. I bought 6mm instead and it will be necessary to compensate for the difference with washers in the final clock assembly. I hope it works.

*Todays Work* 
Today was much like yesterday. I started by cutting my 9mm platter. I got everything set up and then to my amazement my saber saw wouldn't work! I solved that problem by plugging it in. Next I cut the workpiece I needed on my miter saw and then got my pattern ready.

It is a large wheel and I had to glue two A4s together to get the complete pattern. There were some smaller parts patterns included on it which were set aside for later use. *see below*














































*Boring, Boring, And More Boring*
I wanted to get all the holes drilled before I started with the scroll sawing. It took awhile since there were 70 holes to drill, including entry holes for inside cuts. *see below*










*Scroll Sawing And More Scroll Sawing*
The first I did was to cut out the center pieces between the spokes. This was so I could hold and move the workpiece around easier while cutting the hour numbers and the gear teeth. *see below*



















*Gear teeth Cutting Technique*
The area between each wheel teeth was removed first with a straight cut in from the top of each tooth making the same cut all the way around the wheel, then a 2nd cut in from the other side, again from the top of each tooth and all round the wheel. This avoided the need to move the big wheel around a lot to perform a 'U' shaped and made everything easier. just a hair of the pattern lines along the tooth edges were left to be filed away later to to perfect the shape of the teeth. *see below*



















*The Almost Completed Gear*
I was pretty tired after all the drilling and scroll sawing so I decided to do the filing work on the teeth tomorrow. *see below*










I'm pretty satisfied with the work. One of the advantages of working with the magnifying light is that any small errors seen through the magnifier are totally insignificant when viewed with the naked eye. I did put a little hack in the 2 in the twelfth hour cutout. I'm confident that this can be fixed so well that it will not be noticeable. I have a LOT of experience fixing woodworking mistakes!

Thanks for reading.


----------



## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Fortunately this clock does not have a plug. Thanks Mike for sharing.


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Mike, I'm loving this. It's so interesting and I'm wanting to do this myself. Thanks for the blog. What is the thickness of the gears?

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


*Jan* Yes, I agree. Thanks for the laugh.

*Charles* Thanks, I'm glad you are interested. This clock has 5 Baltic birch thicknesses; 3mm, 6.5mm, 9mm, 12mm, and 18mm. I do suggest that if you order a clock plan to ask to see the materials list before you buy so you can see if the thicknesses are readily available. I wouldn't have bought this one had I known about the oddball size 6.5mm.


----------



## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


That is a very good job on those teeth. An abrasive on the scroll saw would probably work very well. I used a 1" belt sander but you have to be really careful and watch things closely or you take too much off.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Thanks Bruce. If I can't figure out how do it with my scroll saw I intend to just hand file it, some sandpaper stuck to a tongue depressor with carpet tape should do the trick.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Nice progress, Mike, you sure did a fine job sawing out that gear!!

Jim


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Thanks Jim. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Great job, Mike! I can only imagine how tedious those gear teeth are to cut out. How many sheets of paper does it take to make up 0.5 mm? Could you do that between 2 pieces of the 3 mm stuff? Hope you get an answer that you're able to do up easily.


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Great post and info. Thx for sharing. I want to do this project but will need to research the thicknesses needed. I don't normally work with mm as well … should make it fun.


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Nice work Mike! I'm sure you've heard about this by now, but Clayton Boyer has some great examples of wooden clocks. Gotta love that kinetic movement! Best of luck,


----------



## hunter71 (Sep 4, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Are you keeping track of hours? It looks great.


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


I'm really enjoying the story Mike!

For your 6.5mm plywood, how about adding 2mm to each side of your 3mm plywood and then sand down to 6.5mm?


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


.... or sand the six mm stock first and then veneer it both sides. You could get some nice looking gears!
My compliments on your scrollsaw prowess. I am hard pressed to do that well on my chevalet.


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Looking great, progress is coming along


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


My thanks to all who commented here.

*Candy* That sounds like a very smart and creative solution. I'm not sure if paper would work, but I can't see why not. That said, I really don't want to experiment as too much time goes into making the gears and I wouldn't want to have to do them over if it didn't work.

*Ken* My plans are in mm because that is the European standard, but if you buy plans from Clayton Boyer in Hawaii they probably come in inches.

*Doug* I'm not keeping track of the time, partly because I don't want to be confronted with how slow I work these days and also because there would be no value for me in doing so. The gear I did today took about 5-1/2 hrs. including all the work shown in the blog. It is a pretty big gear though with a lot of teeth and other details, not to mention all the drilling. The other gears are much simpler. I'll let you know how long they take after I've cut them.

*Steve* If I did that I would have less than 5mm, ha ha. That was like me when I answered the question about the different thickness of ply needed for this plan. I said 3 and then gave 5 different dimensions (now corrected).

*Paul* That is exactly the solution I came to. I just have to see if I have enough sheets of veneer big enough and. I do have enough of my beech veneer, but it is pretty boring to look at. I just wish the designer would get back to me and hopefully give me an easier way out. The problem is that there aren't too many other parts left to do.


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Hi Mike, Maybe I wasn't clear…

Start with 3mm plywood
Add 2mm to each side for 7mm thick
Sand 0.25 off each side for 6.5mm

Oh, and nice work on the gear teeth!


----------



## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


A lot of progress, a long way to go!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


*Steve* Yes, you were clear, I just didn't read it properly. Sorry. Thanks much for the suggestion. Unfortunately I don't have 3 or 2mm ply. Instead i plan to sand down my 6mm on both sides and then use 0.7mm veneer thicknesses on each side to bring it to 6.5mm.

Yes, quite a way to go yet.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Nice progression Mike. No matter what you think, that is a lot of work in 5 hours. I would use 2 hours up by just thinking about it. Some mighty fine cutting on that gear plate.


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


No Worries Mike - Sounds like you have a plan!


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


I don't know much about your plan, but depending on the reason for the particular thickness, you might just be able to add a washer (wood or metal) on either side to center the gear properly on the axel, and stick with your 6mm material. The point being, it would be easier to make a small disc with a hole in it than the whole gear.

Interesting project…...........just 6 weeks to my retirement, by the way…..........


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Thanks for the tip Jim, and congratulations! I'm glad to hear that your retirement is just around the corner. I'm sure a smart guy like yourself will find plenty of things to do to keep you active and engaged. I can also imagine that like most of us oldies it won't be long before you feel more busy after your retirement than you did while still working. We all slow down a bit sooner or later while the world continues to spin at the same rate.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Like you say, I have plenty of things to do, and the pace of activity will adjust to the time available, meaning, I will learn to slow down without thinking about it. Since retirement for me involves extricating myself from our clinic, as well as ceasing to take care of patients, this last month or so will probably be a bit busy.

But my job ends midnight 12-31-15 with the start of the new year, so it will be a special New Year's Eve for us.

Down to the shop for a little diversion…...........


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


It sounds great Jim. I'm sure it will take a few years before you feel that you don't have to go to work when you wake up in the mornings. It takes awhile to get used to that idea. That's what happened to me anyway. I will have a silent toast to you while we usher in the New Year.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Thank you, Mike. I am going to need that toast…........(-:

Been an MD for 47 years. Need all the help I can to get off of that horse.

May have to go to a séance, get some advice from my predecessors to disconnect me from the invisible but all too real responsibilities.

........I may have to make a formal consultation request to you to figure out how to do it. You are doing it well…......


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Jim, I think the only cure is time and there will always be a part of you that is still a bit stressed with the past. It's pretty hard to erase the emotions of a lifetime of work completely, and probably even more so after having the responsibility of having peoples lives in your hands. All the more reason to obsess a little on other activities/hobbies.

One problem I had with my woodworking for many years was that I had this carrry-over attitude from my working life that I had to be productive. I finally got rid of that bad habit and now I just take my time and enjoy every part of whatever project I'm working on and concentrate on quality over quantity.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Good advice Mike. I have learned to use the shop as a diversion, but I am still probably production oriented to some extent. I think you are right about the memory. Somehow that stress is going to be with me in some form for the rest of my life.

By the way, I am not into building things from plans, much. But I suspect this is the way to do this project, if nothing else, just as a learning process leading to your own design. Making those gear patterns would be quite a project all to itself. You are going to make a clock with every gear a masterpiece of intarsia, right?............(-:


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


I doubt I will ever produce a masterpiece of anything Jim. I might like to design my own clock if I can learn how. There is a book by Clayton Boynton which supposedly can lead to designing a clock, so I might eventually buy it . Right now I will be very happy if this clock just works. The world of gears is kind of intriguing, but only time will tell if I can actually understand how they work together. Another obstacle is what to do with the clocks I make. I'm not sure if anyone wants one, even as a gift. I normally don't gift anything that has to be displayed or hung on a wall in case the recipient doesn't like it.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Strange, email showed your complete message, but it is truncated here in LJ's. But I got the whole thing in email.

Sounds like the problems quilters have with their output. Only so many quilts one can use…........

I have made a few things that enjoy continued use, but very few. Mostly, I make utilitarian objects that have an expected use. Then, if I make them for me, I know they will be used!

Right now, just making another tool tote type thing for my small battery operated drivers. It is being made to solve a problem, so yup, it will get used. There is a beauty of sorts in practical things that solve problems of every day life, even if it is in the shop….............


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


True enough Jim. It doesn't really matter what you make as long as you enjoy the work and the result, and I also like things that get used.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


But I have made jigs, and then never used them…............(-:

........I could probably make a display of the outdated and useless jigs, take a picture, and call it industrial art…....(-:


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


During the early years of my woodworking I made a lot of fancy jigs, but rarely if ever used them again. The lesson here is that jigs are excellent for repetitive production work, which is fine for a pro, but if you are constantly evolving and doing different kinds of work, they usually just take up a lot of space. That said, there are some keepers, such as; a tenon jig for the table saw and/or the router, a circle saw jig for cutting platters, some disk sander jigs, and maybe a few others depending on what you make a lot of. Now I mostly make simple jigs for a project when needed and then take them apart when I'm finished.


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


You manage to keep doing many of the things I have had on my to do list for much of my life. Love watching your progress.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Thanks Ken. I'm getting so old and decrepit I figure if I don't do it now I never will.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Gad Zooks Mike! I am just retiring….......and now my next life begins. I can't have doom and gloom amongst my piers, I need an upbeat attitude!

People ask me what I am going to do with my time, with most of them thinking I am in my early 60's, due to a genetic sparing of my face, while the rest of my body has loose screws, rusty joints, and dry rot wherever the mold hasn't taken root, more typical of the mid 70's. So I look into the mirror to get the optimistic version of life and plan accordingly!!!

So tonight we go out for dinner at a very fancy restaurant with close friends, to celebrate my wife's and his wife's birthdays….......which happen to be on the same day. We have been doing this for a number of years.

I got a very good deal on a gift certificate, involving a substantial amount of money, at Sherie's favorite quilt store. Thinking about how to doll up a bland gift, I think I will try to make an envelope of sorts out of contrasting wood thin cuts, and have the gift certificate inside with an exposed tab to pull it out.

Better get to work, only have about 6 hours….............

Later, with GUSTO!!!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Sorry Jim, I was just speaking for myself, not a youth like you. Have a smashing good time at the birthday dinner and wish your wife a happy birthday for us here in Norway!


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Yes, we had a good time last night, and I made an envelope out of cocobolo, smooth as can be, but no time to put any finish on it. So I removed sawdust and excess oil with some acetone after the final sanding with fine steel wool, and cautioned people at the table to not let it come it contact with clothes. But in any case, it doesn't seem to be leaching out any color at this time. I am now researching how to finish it, and when I am done with that, I will post it as a project. It is a fun solution to a bland gift certificate…............and can be used over again if kept in the family.

Have a good day, and thanks again for entertaining all of us with your great blogging style…........


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Glad to hear that all went well with the party Jim. I'll look forward to seeing the cocobolo piece when you have figured out a finish for it. I bought a piece about 4 years ago which was about 6"x 6"x 4" and I paid almost $100 dollars for it (kr 595,-). Beautiful stuff. I hope you got yours for a lower price.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


I was working on the smaller of two pieces, about 12"x4"x1", marked for $9.50, that Sherie bought me about 20 years ago. I still have a much larger piece to go. Guess I will put a higher value on it than I had.

I went with a water based finish, rattle can, worked well, but now I have some inward bowing. I will watch as the wood dries out. If it doesn't go back, I will somehow have to finish the inside of the pieces…........and that is really going to be interesting…........

Apparently, oil based finishes don't cure right with this type of wood. The oil in the wood seeps into the finish and prevents it from drying. The water based varnish dried quickly.

Regarding the bowing…...unpredicted consequences of a simple step. Hmmmmm….....

But, it is a learning experience….......we will see…........


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


I'm sure you will get it done the way you want it Jim. I have had more than my share of those learning experiences in my shop. Being on LJ and having access to all the expertise on the net has saved me a lot of grief though. When I started woodworking I was pretty isolated and the net was in it's infancy. I subscribed to a few magazines, and I did learn from them, but not nearly as much as I have on the net.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Well, I am not sure why, but the bowing disappeared when I finished the other side. It might have needed to dry…....or the two sides balanced each other. If it had wanted to bow outward, the other side would have contributed to the forces and would have increased the bowing. But since it tended to bow in, the tensions offset each other. Or it may have just needed to dry. In any case, it now looks exactly like it did prior to finishing.

From now on, I will finish bow sides of a piece if there is any possibility of warping. But, not necessary in this case.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


A classic case of Ying and Yang Jim. May the force be with you.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Ah so, Mike, it is one of the few times luck, and the force, were on my side. Usually they both seem to be in cahoots to make my life difficult…..............(-:


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Glad you are enjoying the sweet taste of success Jim. I can't say the same for myself. All will be explained in my next blog. I'm sure you will have a good laugh.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Wow Mike! Some seriously fine cutting there


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Dial/Gear -Day 3*
> 
> *How The Time Is Read On This Clock*
> This clock is a little different from most. It only has one hand which is the hour hand. This hand is stationary and stays at the 12 o'clock position while the clock dial turns. The clock dial is actually a gear with the hour numbers on it. Holes between the hour numbers denote the minutes with one hole for each 5 min.
> ...


Thanks Roger.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*

The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.



















Next up was to take the tip of the teeth off on my disk sander to make the gear perfect round. We'll see if I actually accomplished that when I try to get the clock going. I need to make a decent jig for this work, but I got lazy and I will probably regret it later.










And finally I removed the pattern from all the pieces done so far which are show below. Altogether 9 big pieces and some small ones not shown cut out so far including the winding barrel in the center which is composed of 5 pieces. From left to right are the mounting frame, the winding barrel and the hour dial/gear.










My plan is to not glue anything until I have cut out all the pieces and I can lay them out for a photo so you can see every part that goes into the clock in one photo.

Thanks for viewing and I appreciate the helpful comments thus far even though I might not use them all.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Nice progress….you got me thinking now about making one


----------



## majuvla (Jul 20, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Realy big and challenging project!


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


The assembly, once all the parts are prepped and pre-fitted, sounds like an excellent excuse for a time lapse video!!
I am totally impressed with your work on this Mike. I'm not listening to any more bu##sh## about your eyesight. Nope, not any.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Filing down those teeth sure must be a tedious job but an important one I'm sure. That could probably change the speed of the clock. Keep up the good work.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Thanks all.

*Paul* If I could see it well I would probably screw it up. In fact I might have anyway. I won't know until I put it all together and find out it doesn't work. I would mind doing a time lapse video as long as I'm not in it! I have to make an extendable arm for my GoPro camera so I can work while the pictures are filmed.

*Dave* The filing work really wasn't too bad or take too long. I cut pretty close to the line, so there wasn't much to file. I was really tempted to cut right at the line when I started because it was so easy, but decided to follow the good advice from experienced folks on youtube instead and sneak up on the fit. I do think I will hand file all my gear teeth from now on.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


That exacto knife sticking up out of the middle of that gear is kinda scary, Mike. Looks like something I would do, saying all the time 'It's fine, I won't forget it's there…OUCH!'
Time lapse would be fun to watch!


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


You are doing very good so far. Big involved project, but I have faith in your expertise to pull it off in good order!!


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Great work on this, Coming along very nicely. I was having lunch yesterday with some buddies I meet with on Wed that are all woodworkers as well. We talked about making this and why I want to put myself through this LOL Thx for teaching and sharing this with all of us.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


*Candy* Yes it does look scary. Too bad I didn't make this at Halloween.

*Jim* I wish I were as optimistic as you

*Ken* I know this looks like a difficult project and maybe it is is some ways, but perhaps not the ways you might imagine. The scroll saw cutting is actually a lot easier than I had imagined, even the gear teeth. The most difficult part is drilling the center holes on the gears. This has to be super accurate. The big gear I just finished called for a hole of 10.3 mm. Well, I sure couldn't find a drill bit that size, so I had to drill it with a 10mm bit, which left part of the pattern line around it. Then I used a rattail file to get rid of the line. I think I overdid it a bit. the gear will be spinning on a 10mm axle and I just hope I didn't screw it up. I may have to adjust that hole somehow, but I'm not sure how yet as I haven't any experience with problems like this.


----------



## CoolDavion (Dec 6, 2007)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


I've seen several wooden gear clocks, and this is one project on my list.

Keep up the good work, I will follow along.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Welcome to the party CD.


----------



## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Hi Mike, this may be a bit late for your current project, but it might be useful for future ones (or for the other members following this great project). You had mentioned how you were attaching your patterns, and it reminded me of another Lumberjocks posting by Scrollgirl, and one solution that she found. Her posting is at . . . 
http://lumberjocks.com/scrollgirl/blog/33396
Have a great day.
Still watching with great interest.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Thanks John. One of the comments to that article was a guy using a glue stick and I have also used that with success in the past, but for some reason I didn't think about it this time. The patterns don't lift under cutting and it was very easy to remove the remains afterward and doesn't leave any or at least almost no residue, and that can be taken with water. I should have gone with that, but I guess I had spray on the brain. I could also use hot glue which works very well but it has to be wetted and scraped off. I think I will go back to the glue stick or at least try the next gear with it. I can't wait to get going again tomorrow.


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Mike that is a lot bigger clock then I thought judging by the pictures but you are making some good progress and the parts are looking very well made .

Klaus


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Thanks Klaus. I am enjoying this a lot so far. I'll probably be swearing when I try getting it to run.


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Moving along on this project, great job


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Thanks Norm.


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Dang, Mike. This is looking first class. This is a great project.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Thanks Charles. I am enjoying it. The small size makes it very manageable. The only work is cutting the large platters to make workpieces, but that's not so bad either.


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Thx for the reply, I'll kep that in mind on the holes. After the first of the yr I'll be getting one of these. Keep up the great work. I'm making Blondie a Maple China cabinet, with a butcher block top . She has wanted one for her 
Martini Glass collection for a while now. Hope all is well.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Just catching up on your blog Mike,you are doing an amazing job,I'm just blown away at your great work. I can't stop saying WOW.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Day Finishing Up The Clock Dial - 4*
> 
> The gear teeth on the clock dial had to be filed down to the pattern lines after cutting yesterday. I tried making a sanding stick that I could run in my scroll saw and it worked for awhile but the blade holders eventually split the wooden stick and that was that. I decided to hand file it instead and this turned out to be just as fast and I was also able to file the gullets at the same time with the edge of the same small flat file I used. As you can see if you look closely I pencil marked the finished teeth as I worked. I just filed down in smooth long strokes and not upward, to avoid lifting the pattern on the edges.
> 
> ...


Thanks much Jim. It's not really that difficuly, but it reeks of technology and that might make it appear more difficult than it really is.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*

*A Wonderful day*
I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.

*Today's Work*
I made the 6.5mm work pieces for the escapement gear,, the minute gear and the idler gear and some other pieces. The pattern for the fork like thing is the piece that runs on the escapement gear and it is attached at the upper end of the pendulum. It alternately locks and releases the escapement gear at each swing of the pendulum. *see below*










*The escapement gear (the smallest one)* is the gear which is alternatively locked and released with each swing of the pendulum to control the speed of the clock.

*The minute gear* regulates the movement of the clock dial as far as I know, but I won't be sure of that until I have the clock assembled and running. Remember, the hour hand is stationary while the whole dial moves on this clock.

*The idler gear*
Another gear I'm not sure about regarding it's purpose or name, but as far as I know it has nothing to do with the time, but is placed there to transfer power between other time keeping gears. So it is a kind of assistant to the essential gears and helps to keep the placement of the gears compact.

Just my take on it so far. I will get back to you on these gears as soon as I can after I have actually learned enough about them, meanwhile if any of you have a more accurate description please don't hesitate to comment on it. *see below*










I changed a couple of things today. Instead of cutting and leaving a thin line to file off on each gear tooth, I just cut right to finished size. I was feeling more confident with my cutting after getting some practice with the first cuttings. It worked out well except for the escapement gear. I will have to recut that one because I got some chipping on the gear tooth tips and the back on a few teeth too. For that reason I put a zero clearance auxiliary table onto my scroll saw. It's not 100% zero clearance, but close enough to solve the problem. The others gears came out perfect (my perfect).

Unfortunately I didn't have time to cut the other items in the first photo. Believe it or not I have used only one blade for every thing I have cut for this project so far. A #5 Nicqua reverse tooth blade. This one must have super strength or something and it's still cutting very smooth to boot!

Thanks for joining in the fun.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


You sure aren't using much of your stock. The scrap must outweigh the parts ten to one. 
I know these are not extreme close ups but please allow me to be in awe of your scrollsaw skills anyway. The photo is plenty close enough to tell me you are far better than I am.
This is going to be a sweet machine Mike. Thanks or the ride.
Have you thought of paper backing before cutting the intricate bits?


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


I agree with Paul. A wooden gear clock is something on my "want to try" list as well. Thanks for sharing the process with us!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


Hello Mike,

I have been watching your posts, and from what I see all is progressing very well, its a very interesting concept clock, and enhanced by the way you go about producing it, both physically and the reporting aspects as well.

You are correct regarding idler gear, they are there simply there to transfer motion you can have as many as you want and they have no effect on the gear ratio from the driving gear and the driven gear, they simply power transfer and reverse the direction dependent an how many you use in the transmission.

I am also pleased to see a good result on the ply thickness, ply is in particular a product here that has definately had a severe loss of quality in regards to manufacturing processes used and final gradings available for use.

Finally I also have to fully agree with Paul and the other LJs in regard to your skills in scroll saw work and in particular gear cutting precision. A tilt of the hat is applied there.


----------



## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


Nice work Mike, I've been following as well. A geared clock is great fun to watch taking shape.

Thanks for keeping to a photo only format, my youtube time is reserved for music. lol


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


That intricate work keeps adding up. Those gears remind me of bicycle sprockets. Keep at it Mike. You know you might have just jinxed that blade.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


*Paul* I just love it when you tell me how good I am at scroll sawing, but believe me when I say that there is an abundance of folks out there who are far better at it than I am. My accuracy is completely dependent on my magnifier lamp. I would love to use it on my chevalet too, but it doesn't work so well there with the saw frame moving back and forth.

The backing is a great idea and one that I should have thought of myself. By the way, I used a glue stick today to glue on my patterns and it worked perfectly. The leftover pattern pulls right off afterward.

You are right about the waste factor as the gears are only about 10% of the workpiece after cutting. However, I am saving the larger cutouts between the spokes on the gears for example and any other larger pieces. I'm sure I can use them for other projects.

*Mosquito* Thanks. I hope you take the plunge. BTW I lived on a farm about 4 miles outside of Onamia Minn. back in 1944/45. It's kind of a flat Norway. Lots of lakes and birch trees.

*Robert* Thanks for the praise and also the confirmation of what the idler gear does. The ply I'm using is what everyone calls Baltic birch ply. The different layers are all the same quality and there are no voids whatsoever. It is very expensive though. especially for clock gears as about 90% is wasted, except I can use a lot of that waste for other stuff.

*Dave* Talking about bicycles, I would like the make a wooden scale model of one for my oldest son so maybe this gear cutting experience will come in handy. He has built some really cool and very lightweight bikes. He buys the frames and parts and puts them all together himself.


----------



## stevo_wis (Feb 10, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


Wow Mike. Tremendous.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


WOW…..........I agree with Paul. you have about 10% of the stock left when you cut out the gears! That is one fine scroll saw job….........I would have had a few missing teeth in the gears!!

I can't wait to see it running!..............Jim


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


Mike, are you talking a full scale functional bike or just a novelty model? That could be a nice on off project for me to work on through the next year or two. ha ha. It would be cool to ride.


----------



## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


You sure moved fast on this project. Exiting to follow along!


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


Awesome progress, Mike! I'm taking notes on all these great tips.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


Thanks for the encouraging comments everyone.

*Dave* I am just thinking a model, maybe 18" long, but one that functions. I doubt I can do the multiple gears on the back wheel, but I might be able to mock that part up. I'm not really sure I'm going to do this as the parts might be too small make, especially a functioning chain. The rest not so difficulty. I know how to make the chain, but pretty challenging at so small a scale.


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


Coming along nicely Mike! About a year ago I wanted to make a wooden gear clock with stained glass in the negative spaces, however baby came along and that is on the back burner. After looking though, there wouldn't be much excitement to that because only the escapement piece has a lot of movement- all the other gears turn pretty slowly! 
Can't wait to see it.


----------



## hunter71 (Sep 4, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


Buying good blades is worth the investment.


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


Great progress, looking very good, congrats on the still sharp blade


----------



## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


Looks good Mike.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


Just been catching up on all your excellent blog posts Mike and all I can say is WOW!!! I can't wait to see it all assembled.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


Thanks all. It's going to be really embarrassing if this clock doesn't run after I finally get it assembled!


----------



## oneness (May 1, 2016)

stefang said:


> *Escapement Gear, Minute Gear and Idler Gear - Day 5*
> 
> *A Wonderful day*
> I was going to begin the task of converting my 6mm thick ply to 6.5mm. My plan was to sand down the 6mm enough so that I could add a veneer to bring it up to 6.5mm. The first thing I did though was to use my digital calipers to measure the actual thickness, and lo and behold it was exactly 6.5mm. What a relief! It made me very happy.
> ...


whaou ! great


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*

Got a late start today so not much done.

*Todays Work*
You might remember that I messed up the escapement gear. The sharp tips of the teeth were very fragile and I broke a few out on the tip and back edges. I made a replacement today and found a good cutting technique that preserves the tips of the teeth and I also used a close to zero blade clearance auxiliary table for my scroll saw which maybe helped too.

*Improved Cutting Technique*
Instead of cutting fragile tooth tips close to the pattern line I angled the entrance and exit cuts away from the tooth tips as shown in the *photo below* A good reason to leave some extra wood outside the pattern. This worked very well and no teeth were damaged this time.










*Sanding Jig*
After the completing the replacement escapement gear I wanted to sand it to perfect round and thereby also get rid of the excess tip material. When cutting gears it is a good idea to leave the pattern lines on the very tip to leave a sanding target.

To get accurate sanding, A sanding circle jig was made for my disc sander. If I didn't have a disk sander I would have used it on my lathe disk sander. The jig is simply a couple of pieces of plywood with the top two pieces cut at an angle of 15deg. on one edge and then glued to the ply base to form a dovetail slot.

A sliding piece was cut at the same angle on each side to fit the dovetail slot and holes are drilled in the slider the same diameter as the holes drilled in the gear center. The drill bit is used as an axel to keep the gear running accurately. It took about 15 minutes to make.

It's just to mount the gear, shove it into the sanding disk until you just sand away the pattern line on one tooth, then the slider is clamped as shown and the gear is revolved by hand until all the teeth are sanded. Very simple and effective. *photo below*










*A test to Confirm Smooth Running*
After sanding the idler and minute gears I mounted them temporarily to a board to see if they would run smoothly. This was a worthwhile test. I could feel a little drag in a couple of places so I marked with a pencil where it was binding and then filed down those areas.Very little filing was necessary to eliminate the drag. I don't know if this is normal practice, but I thought it was a good idea *Photo below*










That's it for today. Have a nice weekend and thanks for reading.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


Well done on the DIY "wheel balancer". I'll bet it saved you a lot of head scratching later.
This all looks so good it makes me want to build one but I'm a rubbish plan follower, too independant by nature, and I also have way to many ideas for this lifetime. 

Looking just sweet!


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


Nice going Mike. I'd call them Mercedes gears!!
We area ll learning from you!!

Cheers, my friend….............Jim


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


I can relate to that Paul. I'm not much of a plan guy either, but unlike you I have way to few ideas and especially when it comes to anything like gears. This is what happens when you spend your working life as an office rat with no useful skills for retirement. I am spending the rest of my life as the perennial apprentice. I feel lucky and privileged though to be in the company of so many skilled and creative people like yourself. Some of it rubs off once in awhile.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


Yes Jim, the blind leading the blind. Remember, this clock might not work and then all my tips would be pretty questionable.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


Mike, there is no doubt in our minds. It will work and work well!


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


I believe your ideas and sanding jig will bet you there. Can't say what I would do in that case, only experience would tell. Looks like the battery back up mechanism is not needed yet. ha ah. I'm with you all the way.


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## hunter71 (Sep 4, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


You'll be making a Grandfather clock soon Mike.


----------



## madts (Dec 30, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


Keep up the good work. I like what I see

-Madts.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


If encouragement helps then this clock is bound to be a success. Thanks all.

*Doug* This is a grandfather clock (made by a grandfather).


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


The pendulum is probably adjusted in such a way that the escapement gear makes one revolution in 60" (or 1'). Then the gear train must reduce the speed to obtain one revolution in 12 hours on the hour indicating gear.
12 X 60' = 720.
So the final ratio must be 1/720 which of course is easier to do with multiple gears.
Otherwise you would need for instance a gear with 5 tooth and the other one with 3600 tooth. Furthermore, the 3600 tooth gear would have a very very large diameter (in fact 720 greater than the small gear diameter) which is rather impractical.
Sawing the tooth on a 3600 tooth gear is a work I wouldn't want to do.


----------



## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


Mike 
I mounted the gears in their position in the clock frame and ran them against each other and marked with the pencil and filed. This saved me the worry of getting the axle centers the exact distance on a separate board. Your scroll saw abilities make mine look like a beginner. I am enjoying your blog. Looking forward to seeing the clock run.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


*Sylvain* Yes, I think the so called 'minute' gear must regulate the hour wheel. I'm looking forward to learning more about how all these gears work together, the ratios and the reason why they are placed as they are and how the idler gear assists the power train.

*Bruce* Thanks for the tip. I missed the obvious conclusion that the best test would be on the assembled clock itself. The rest of the work is mostly the pendulum and weight parts plus some spacers and axle caps.


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


Coming along nicely Mike. I've had a desire to make one of these since I was a teenager. About time I get my Roundtuit going.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


*Ken* The parts are actually pretty easy to cut out. I think the main challenge is in the precision of the cutting and also the drilling. I'm not sure if my work is precise enough, but time will tell. On the upside, any parts that are bad can be redone.

Possibly such a project scares some people away because they haven't got much knowledge of how clocks actually work (people like me). However with a plan, you just have to cut the parts from printed patterns and assemble according to instructions and then you learn how it works after you get it going. It is pretty enjoyable so far.

I remove the areas between the spokes on the gear first so I have something to hold on to. That goes pretty fast. I started out cutting one side at a time on the gears, but that got pretty boring so now I cut out the whole area between two teeth in one go. More entertaining, like the difference between driving a boring straight road for 1,000 miles or a winding road that keeps you alert and active the whole time,

I think that the most essential piece of equipment for a project like this is a good magnifier lamp with a florescent tubular bulb.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


I do not focus as close up as I used to, but without my glasses, I can focus on something perfectly without glasses at 12". Nearsighted, of course. But I bought my magnifying lamp about 20 years ago, I think, and use it with increasing frequency. It is indispensable for removing splinters from hands…............(-:

......I also have my WorkSharp located right next to that lamp.

Very interesting, Mike, and I like your auxiliary table. It closely resembles my circle cutting jig for my band saw. Of course, shop gizmos and me are fast friends from way back…..............


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


Yes Jim it is a generic circle cutting jig. This one is a keeper as I often make round things that need sanding.


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


WOWZA now that is great info. Ill be doing one first of the year. Thankyou for the info and sharing ideas to make this easier. Such a great project and post.


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## oneness (May 1, 2016)

stefang said:


> *Recut One Gear and Made a Sanding Jig*
> 
> Got a late start today so not much done.
> 
> ...


nice


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Bits and Pieces - Day 7*

Cutting out lots of small items today. Almost finished. just the main weight and the small counter weight plus the pendulum arm remains, plus a few more holes to drill. There will also be a threaded rod on the end of the pendulum rod to make it adjustable.

*Todays Work*
The items cut today consisted of the bob components, spacers, pinion gears, escapement anchor and it rocker, the cap for the winding barrel, the ratchet gear and it's blockers, the hour dial and lastly the tops and the bottoms for the main weight (might not be using those).










*Last Items to Make*

 *Main weight and counter weight* 
The plan calls for the main weight to be a plastic tube, but I don't like the looks of that so my plan is to glue up some solid wood pieces and turn it on the lathe. It will still be a hollow tube, but much better looking. Lead pellets are filled into the tube to give it the necessary weight, about 2.4kg or 5-1/4lb. The main weight is attached to a cord that goes around the winding barrel and the other end is attached to the counter weight which is just heavy enough to keep the cord taught. It also acts as a handle to pull down, which raises the main weight on the other end for the next 24hrs run. This replaces winding the clock with a key.
 *Pendulum Rod*
This is just the rod that has the pendulum bob at the bottom and a rocker attached to the escapement anchor at the top. The bob at the bottom is basically a box which will be filled with lead to give it a little extra weight.

*Tips*
The thin edges on the escapement gear teeth and also the tips of the escapement anchor (*shown below*) are very fragile and very difficult to cut so once again I angled the cuts at the tips away from the sharp edge and sanded them down afterward. This was a replacement for the first anchor on which I again had some breakout on the back bottom side of one of the points. *2nd photo below*



















I will probably stain the main hour dial, the pendulum rod and the clock base. I should have done the dial/gear before cutting it because it's important to not get any stain on the inside of the teeth. Now I will have to mask off all the teeth before applying the stain.

As I mentioned before, I plan to show you all the parts in one photo and I also plan to label the different items. I'm not too sure of the proper English names of many of the components as my plan is in German. It does come with English instructions and material list, but not for the individual components. So I will have to wing it unless I can find the proper names on the net.

Thanks for reading !


----------



## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Bits and Pieces - Day 7*
> 
> Cutting out lots of small items today. Almost finished. just the main weight and the small counter weight plus the pendulum arm remains, plus a few more holes to drill. There will also be a threaded rod on the end of the pendulum rod to make it adjustable.
> 
> ...


Almost finished.

Mike I think there is more space in your living room then in your shop. So I have an idea for you:
http://www.planetarium-friesland.nl/en


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Bits and Pieces - Day 7*
> 
> Cutting out lots of small items today. Almost finished. just the main weight and the small counter weight plus the pendulum arm remains, plus a few more holes to drill. There will also be a threaded rod on the end of the pendulum rod to make it adjustable.
> 
> ...


You are really moving on it, Mike!!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Bits and Pieces - Day 7*
> 
> Cutting out lots of small items today. Almost finished. just the main weight and the small counter weight plus the pendulum arm remains, plus a few more holes to drill. There will also be a threaded rod on the end of the pendulum rod to make it adjustable.
> 
> ...


Wauuu so this is what you are up to now.
Guess you got some time off from the garden now. ;-)
Smiles,
Mads


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Bits and Pieces - Day 7*
> 
> Cutting out lots of small items today. Almost finished. just the main weight and the small counter weight plus the pendulum arm remains, plus a few more holes to drill. There will also be a threaded rod on the end of the pendulum rod to make it adjustable.
> 
> ...


Mike, you are starting to make it look so easy but I know there were some hard and testing times. Some of those pieces look pretty small. I'm starting to get anxious to see the finished clock. Patients is a virtue, and good to see you have that.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Bits and Pieces - Day 7*
> 
> Cutting out lots of small items today. Almost finished. just the main weight and the small counter weight plus the pendulum arm remains, plus a few more holes to drill. There will also be a threaded rod on the end of the pendulum rod to make it adjustable.
> 
> ...


Well done Mike. 
What's the problem with satin on the gear teeth? Would dye be a "solution"?


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Bits and Pieces - Day 7*
> 
> Cutting out lots of small items today. Almost finished. just the main weight and the small counter weight plus the pendulum arm remains, plus a few more holes to drill. There will also be a threaded rod on the end of the pendulum rod to make it adjustable.
> 
> ...


Thanks to everyone for the nice comments.

*Jan* Wow, that is really amazing. It was interesting to see that all the gears in the loft power unit are pin gears rather than gears with teeth. It is also very beautiful in the living room. Art and science!

*Mads* Yes, the gardening season is over and now it time to have some fun!

*Dave* The biggest problem has been with the drilling, especially one particular hole. It is the fly in the ointment.

*Paul* All the different wooden gear clock makers say not to put any kind of finish on the inside of the teeth. The reason given is that it will increase friction and gather more dust with the same result. Personally I can't see how stain can cause friction, but I think it is wise to follow the advice of those with the most experience. I can't see why dye couldn't be used.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Bits and Pieces - Day 7*
> 
> Cutting out lots of small items today. Almost finished. just the main weight and the small counter weight plus the pendulum arm remains, plus a few more holes to drill. There will also be a threaded rod on the end of the pendulum rod to make it adjustable.
> 
> ...


That's what I suspected. Dye would be dry and have no effect on friction or dust. ...... And you get the colour you want.


----------



## hunter71 (Sep 4, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Bits and Pieces - Day 7*
> 
> Cutting out lots of small items today. Almost finished. just the main weight and the small counter weight plus the pendulum arm remains, plus a few more holes to drill. There will also be a threaded rod on the end of the pendulum rod to make it adjustable.
> 
> ...


I am thinking I just might * NOT *try to make a wood gear clock.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Bits and Pieces - Day 7*
> 
> Cutting out lots of small items today. Almost finished. just the main weight and the small counter weight plus the pendulum arm remains, plus a few more holes to drill. There will also be a threaded rod on the end of the pendulum rod to make it adjustable.
> 
> ...


*Doug* If you are thinking that the one I'm making is difficult, how about this one?


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Bits and Pieces - Day 7*
> 
> Cutting out lots of small items today. Almost finished. just the main weight and the small counter weight plus the pendulum arm remains, plus a few more holes to drill. There will also be a threaded rod on the end of the pendulum rod to make it adjustable.
> 
> ...


Coming along nicely Mike!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Bits and Pieces - Day 7*
> 
> Cutting out lots of small items today. Almost finished. just the main weight and the small counter weight plus the pendulum arm remains, plus a few more holes to drill. There will also be a threaded rod on the end of the pendulum rod to make it adjustable.
> 
> ...


Thanks Phillip. I can't wait to finish the last few pieces and start assembling it.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Bits and Pieces - Day 7*
> 
> Cutting out lots of small items today. Almost finished. just the main weight and the small counter weight plus the pendulum arm remains, plus a few more holes to drill. There will also be a threaded rod on the end of the pendulum rod to make it adjustable.
> 
> ...


Wow Mike..TickToc


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*

I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.

*Today's Work*
This morning was used to cut the parts for my main weight and to finish up some small parts, I also had to make a couple of grub screws that I haven't been able to find at any store here.

The main weight in the plan is a plastic tube almost 20" long and filled with about 2.4kg of divers lead (small lead round pellets). I didn't like the look of the plastic in the plan so I did a little coopering work and cut 12 staves from some 6mm (1/4") ply on my table saw to make the weight container. It isn't glued up yet, only held together with tape. I will probably cut it as short as I can later. *photo below*










I promised to take a shot of all the parts, which I did today. The only missing part is the 'handle/counter weight' to the main weight which is pulled down to raise the main weight to the start position. *You might have to zoom in on the photo to read the labels. They are at the bottom of each part*

The*1st photo below* shows the winding wheel that the weight runs on in 5 pieces that will be glued together and the 3 part frame which will also be glued together.

The *2nd photo below* shows the winding wheel, the frame and the pendulum bob as they will look when their different parts are glued together. This gives a better idea of the finished parts. The pendulum is sitting in the order it will be when assembled with the pallet at the top end. I didn't have room in the photo frame for the bob at the bottom.



















The labels are in the correct terminology this time. Gears are called wheels. One wheel and the pinion it will turn are called a 'wheel set' with the pinion part of the set glued on to the next wheel in the train.

The 2nd wheel is a helper wheel, it is only used to keep the 3rd wheel rotating in the correct direction so it can turn the escape wheel in the right direction. This is because the next wheel in the chain runs in the opposite direction from the wheel driving it.

The pinions (the smallest gears) are driven by the prior large wheel in the train and they are glued to the next wheel in the train.This is done so that the clock movement can be compact and a large wheel doesn't have to sit tooth to tooth with another large wheel. It also helps to reduce the diameter and number of teeth on the wheels. (I hope I got that right. Please correct me if I didn't).

As you can see from the last photo, this shows how few parts there can be in a clock and none of it is really difficult to cut or assemble. Accuracy is important though and it remains to be seen how good a job I've done on that. So if you have been thinking of making one I hope you are getting a pretty good idea of what's involved. I will blog the clock assembly after the glue-ups are dry and I've done a little light sanding and dye work.

I hope you are enjoying this blog and thank you for following with.


----------



## stevo_wis (Feb 10, 2010)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


Mike, 
This is very cool. I admire you for diving in.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


Thanks Stevo. It's been fun so far. If it actually runs I will be even happier.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


If nothing else, this will give you insights into how clocks run. But the number of precision parts sure looks a little daunting…...........


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


Excellent progress Mike! I am very interested in this story.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


Very nice array with all the labels. Mike, you could teach a class on that!!

cheers, my friend…...............Jim


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


very impressive mike, i had not followed this until now, but i had to see what you were doing….pretty amazing work, but you always seem to be very capable….


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


*Jim Bertelsen* There is still one thing that I'm quite unsure about and that is the ratchet type gear with the pawls. I can see how it would run while the main weight is sinking down. What I can't understand is how it will work when the cord on the other end is pulled to raise the main weight at the beginning of a new cycle (24 hrs. for this clock).

*Steve* I hope you will make one of these. As an engineer this would probably be a no brainer for you.

*Jim Jakosh* Thanks. With patterns, a scroll saw, a drill press, and some other common wood shop tools it is pretty easy to do without taking a class. I did buy a good ebook PDF 'A Practical Guide to Wooden Wheeled Clock Design' by Clayton Boyer which I have only skim read, but still learned quite a bit of theory from it already. I will probably be reading it to death to absorb it all. I am hoping I will learn enough from it to design my own clock one day. In the short term I hope to get a handle on the basics of how these clocks work.

*Bob* Thank you and it's good to hear from you, I hope your health is holding up. I'm not particularly capable, just willing to try new stuff, although this is mainly scroll sawing, so maybe not so new anyway.

The main problem I always encounter with many of my oddball projects is the difficulty of finding all the stuff I need, like grub screws, brass rods, divers weights and even the right diameter woven fishing line that it needed.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


Looking great Mike.
Did you consider a bird's mouth cylinder instead of the coopered one at all? The joints are very easy to cut on a table saw and the glueup is both stronger and self aligning. ..... just a thought….
The assembly will be exciting ….. can't wait.


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


Mike 
That is an amazing looking display of the parts needed for the clock and more to come.
I am watching this with interest as it is something very new to me and can't wait to see the clock finished and running especially the dial which is totally different from a normal dial ,does it read in minutes also ?

Klaus


----------



## hunter71 (Sep 4, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


Coming along just great Mike. Doug


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


Mike, from my chair that is almost intimidating. Very impressive picture of all the hard work. I like your thinking with the wood tube instead of the plastic. Anxiously waiting for the beginning of time. (little pun there)


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


Thanks Doug, Dave and everyone for your interest in this project.

*Paul* Thanks for the tip. The birds mouth joints are good. I just watched the birds mouth table saw cutting on youtube. I think it would be hard to cut it at this scale though because the stave strips are only 1.2mm wide. I do think the conventional miter will be more than strong enough for my purpose here. It only has to support about 2.4kg of lead pellets.

*Klaus* The 3 smaller drilled holes between each hour number denotes a 15 minute interval. Not too critical for this clock as it is more of a curiosity than anything else. It is supposed to be accurate to within about 2 minutes for each 24 hr. period.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


Mike, this build (and blog) is incredible! You said 'oddball project,' and that made me smile.  I would never think to build a working clock out of wood, and you've jumped in. It'll run, and I'll guess it'll be more accurate than you think. Great attention to detail, amazing craftsmanship. The pics of the parts alone, taken just for us, tells me loads about your commitment here. Again, wow! Can't wait to see it all come together!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the kudos Smitty. I keep telling everyone that this is actually not a complicated project, just a lot of parts that look impressive when put together. It does require some scroll saw cutting which some might not be familiar with, but is easily and quickly learned. I do have a great scroll saw, but even that isn't necessary with the 90deg. type of cutting and the thicknesses of wood used.


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


Looks really great Mike. Now I an feeling bad I never acted on my desire to build one of these. I am totally intrigued and will be looking for a set of plans under my Weihnachtsfest Baume.

Can't wait to see it go together.

Ken


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


Very impressive Mike.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Main Weight and Finishing Up Details - Day 8*
> 
> I finally got back into the shop today after doing a lot of shopping.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys.

*Ken* I suggest it might be best to get a current plan for your clock project instead of relying on an old plan, unless you have a lot of confidence in it. Some of the older plans had errors in them and if you don't have the designer available to help you out it could be a big problem.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Gluing - day 9*

*Today's work*
Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.

It was a bit of a puzzle to figure out which spacers went where as the are different combinations and thicknesses and all the names are in German. There is a video which shows the construction on youtube, but I don't get wifi in my shop, so it was no use. In addition there are some washers, which I didn't have.

I glued everything up in place mounted on the main frame and the arbors. It seems to be coming together ok except I have one little problem with the height of the hour face wheel which seems slightly two high by about 2 or 3mm, but that could be due to a missing washer somewhere or maybe I a accidentally used too thick wood on the hubcap on the back of the winding wheel which would in turn raise the face wheel a little. Either way not to big a problem and should be easy to fix.

Here's a photo of the temporary assembly. I will be demounting it and then reassembling it on Monday and also installing the necessary washers. I plan to make a series of photos to show the assembly. Paul asked for a time lapse film on this, but I'm unprepared for that and I don't want to slow the project down to get it set up.










Thanks for reading!


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


That's waaaay cool Mike.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Hi Mike. yes the washers could be needed to make the width of the gears centered on one another.

Jim


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


*a1Jim* Thanks, I think so too.

*Jim* The nice thing about it is that nothing is hard to fix and any bad parts can just be recut, although at this point I'm kind of doubting I will have to do much of that.


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Way to go Mike. I am once again motivated to dig out the plans I had found many years ago to build a wooden clock. I appreciate the kick in the …........ no make that inspiration. It is sure to me a treasured heirloom.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Time to get going then Ken.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Yay Mike!
That is looking really neat. You should be proud.

Steve


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Thanks Steve. I would be a lot prouder if I had designed it, but I admit that seeing it take shape makes me feel real good.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Looking great, Mike! I watched the YouTube video. Just the assembly of all the parts was intimidating to me. I'll just keep watching your build. ;-)


----------



## hunter71 (Sep 4, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Looks great Mike. I can almost hear it TIC-TOC


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


I guess it's safe to say it's starting to look like the beginning of time. Looking good Mike.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Seems to be a flawless build so far Mike.
Lots of fun to watch and I'm sure it must be even more to be doing.
Enjoy your success.


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


You have done a wonderful job with this project, it just looks wonderful


----------



## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Mike, I watched someone make one of those clocks in the community shop I worked in. He encountered many of the same issues as you have. I know it would probably try my patients to attempt one myself, but I'm practicing ….. patients that is  You're doing a super job of it! Looking forward to see the finished project.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Looking good Mike!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Thanks for all the encouraging remarks everyone.

*Bill* The work 'patience' comes up often. I feel so many feel compelled to build things quickly. I think they are unduly influenced by a lifelong attitude that they must be productive. My advice to those folks is to not worry about the time and just enjoy the work of building their project and try to build it as well as they can.


----------



## hookfoot (Jan 23, 2013)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


One word. Beautiful.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...





> *Bill* The work patience comes up often. I feel so many feel compelled to build things quickly. I think they are unduly influenced by a lifelong attitude that they must be productive. My advice to those folks is to not worry about the time and just enjoy the work of building their project and try to build it as well as they can.
> 
> - stefang


I had to comment on this one Mike. I get accused all the time of having endless patience. The fact is that I very much resemble the "many" in your characterization but like Bill, I'm working on it. Marquetry has been a great teacher and I'm sure clock making would be as well …........ but old habits die hard. My goal, and I am making progress, is to actually have the patience that you obviously do.


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


That is now starting to look like a clock !
I agree with you and Paul that old habits are not easy to shed but I do enjoy designing and building my projects and never loose patience until it's done to my satisfaction even when it has to sit on the shelf for a time .

Klaus


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Looks a little like a coffee table puzzle….........

..........and I could use a time lapse mode of life…......so things would slow down enough that could just float along in life a bit and catch my breath….......

Don't you think you should dye each piece a different color and make a legend? Then observers could pick out a particular item, locate it in the works and watch it in action….........(-:


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Thanks for the comments folks. Yes, it is starting to look like something and I'm starting to feel a little more confident about the build. I will give you more details in the next episode. Meanwhile I'm trying to find some 1mm woven fishing line for the weights. I hope to get that tomorrow and a few washers I need too. I couldn't believe I didn't have the washer sizes I needed from my largely scrounged giant collection of them!

*Paul* I don't scroll saw very often and every time I start a new project I'm a little nervous about it, and I I get my shoulders all scrunched up and the cutting starts on a kind of tentative level totally lacking confidence and usually with a few not so good cuts in the turns. When that happens I've learned to take a deep breath and let my shoulders relax. Then the cutting becomes easy and fluid and everything goes well and it is both fast and enjoyable too.

*Jim* I am planning to stain or dye some pieces, which alternative depends on what is available. I love living in Norway, but it's always so hard to find the stuff I need/want here. I'm not planning anything original or exciting as my goal with this clock is just to get it running properly.


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


That's coming along wonderfully, Mike. I'm going to have to back pedal to get caught up; but it sure is looking great.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Consult with Paul regarding dyes, he has blogged about this is some detail. He might have a good suggestion and be knowledgeable about sources and cost.


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Looks fantastic Mike. Congrats!


----------



## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Yes I have to learn to savor the work as much as the end result. I guess that will come. When doing work for clients, they want it done post haste and you want to finish, get paid and move on to the next job. I don't have clients any longer. I have to remind myself, I'm doing this for me 



> Thanks for all the encouraging remarks everyone.
> 
> *Bill* The work patience comes up often. I feel so many feel compelled to build things quickly. I think they are unduly influenced by a lifelong attitude that they must be productive. My advice to those folks is to not worry about the time and just enjoy the work of building their project and try to build it as well as they can.
> 
> - stefang


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Gluing - day 9*
> 
> *Today's work*
> Today was used for gluing different parts up, namely; the main frame, the winding wheel, various wheel spacers and related pinions onto the wheels (gears) plus the coopered main weight and counter weight/handle. I also polished all the arbors (axles). I also ran the winding wheel on my disk sander jig to first get the inside wheels round and then again after gluing all 5 disks together to get the outside round and balanced.
> ...


Thanks Phillip.

*Bill* It certainly is difficult to change lifelong ways of thinking. I have seen so many that have retired and who seem to be held hostage by their past lives. It took me an awful long time to get there and some of the old attitudes towards work still lingers on. I have to keep reminding myself to strive for quality and forget my self-imposed deadlines.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Miscellaneous work - 10th day*

*Todays work*
I had hoped to be able to mount the frame on the wall today, temporarily assemble the clock and then see if it would run. That didn't happen as a lot of small jobs had to be done first and it wound up taking a lot more time than planned. At the end of my last blog I was here with the clock temporarily assembled.

*One problem solved*
You might be able to see in the photo that the main hour dial is too high to match up with the pinion gear of the uppermost wheel on the left. I found out that I had used 10mm ply for the hub on the winding wheel, which is just below the main dial and mounted on the same arbor. I was able to just chisel of some layers of the hub to bring it down to 6.5mm and that in turn lowered the main dial to solve the problem. *see below*










*The Pendulum*: The parts were all made and so it was just to finish sand the edges of the pendulum bob. The pendulum bob has a frame that is 12mm (1/2") thick ply and is capped on both sides with 3mm (1/8") thick ply. One side is glued up and filled with lead weight and then the other side is glued on to form a sealed box which is pretty heavy. Here is a photo that shows the slot the adjustable pendulum rod fits into and all the side pockets which were filled with lead weight. You can see the bob's components which are the 3 largest cutouts. *see below*










The pendulum rod which has a length of threaded rod screwed into the bottom end is pushed into a slot at the top of the bob and pushed through a hole at the bottom of the bob and a nut is screwed on. This makes the length of the pendulum adjustable by making it possible to raise or lower the bob to suit the clock. I understand that all wooden geared clocks are slightly different so some adjustment is usually necessary.

The eye at the top of the pendulum rides on a plywood bearing mounted on the main frame which allows it to rock back and forth causing the pallet to lock and unlock the escapement wheel which regulates the clock's speed.










*The main weight and the counter-weight/handle*
The main weight is what drives the clock. It is held by a cord which is threaded onto the winding wheel. The other end of the cord has a handle attached. As the main weight sinks to the floor, the handle (counter-weight) rises the same amount. To rewind the clock after the main weight has sunk to it's lowest point, the handle is pulled to raise the main weight back up to it's highest position. This seems easier to me than having to wind the clock with a key. This clock needs rewinding every 24 hours.

I had to turn some end caps for the weights. These end caps are rather clever (by the clock designer, not me). I will explain how they work in my next blog which will cover the full clock assembly and testing to see if it works. The design called for the main weight being a plastic tube filled with lead and with plywood plugs at each end. I copied the functional part, but did my own thing appearance wise.

Since the the weights were 12 sided made from 12mm (1/2") ply I had to round the insides with my Dremel to accept the round ends.



















A lot of repetition here (we call it regurgitation here in Norway), so maybe not too interesting to everyone, but I thought it would help those wanting to build a clock to get a little more familiar with some of the generic features.

I have finally figured out how the clock basically works, that is, how the power is transmitted through the drive train from start to finish. I will share that with you in the next blog. I am still shaky on the size and no. of teeth on the wheels and pinions although I have read a little bit about it.

I'm pretty sure I will get the clock temporarily mounted on the wall and hopefully running tomorrow (unless my wife has other ideas). If I can get everything going well I plan to gift this clock to one of my sons and build another for my other son before Christmas.

Thanks for reading. If the clock runs tomorrow that will be the last chapter of this blog.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Miscellaneous work - 10th day*
> 
> *Todays work*
> I had hoped to be able to mount the frame on the wall today, temporarily assemble the clock and then see if it would run. That didn't happen as a lot of small jobs had to be done first and it wound up taking a lot more time than planned. At the end of my last blog I was here with the clock temporarily assembled.
> ...


Good luck, Mike. that is one BIG undertaking and you have a fine run at it!!

Cheers, Jim


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Miscellaneous work - 10th day*
> 
> *Todays work*
> I had hoped to be able to mount the frame on the wall today, temporarily assemble the clock and then see if it would run. That didn't happen as a lot of small jobs had to be done first and it wound up taking a lot more time than planned. At the end of my last blog I was here with the clock temporarily assembled.
> ...


Great blog Mike. There is one misprint though in the last line.
It should read "When the clock…..." 


Waiting impatiently for tomorrow …


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Miscellaneous work - 10th day*
> 
> *Todays work*
> I had hoped to be able to mount the frame on the wall today, temporarily assemble the clock and then see if it would run. That didn't happen as a lot of small jobs had to be done first and it wound up taking a lot more time than planned. At the end of my last blog I was here with the clock temporarily assembled.
> ...


Thanks. I am trying to think of some way to celebrate in case it does work. You might hear the cheers all the way from Norway!


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Miscellaneous work - 10th day*
> 
> *Todays work*
> I had hoped to be able to mount the frame on the wall today, temporarily assemble the clock and then see if it would run. That didn't happen as a lot of small jobs had to be done first and it wound up taking a lot more time than planned. At the end of my last blog I was here with the clock temporarily assembled.
> ...


Even if it doesn't work Mike (and I'm sure it will), it is still very impressive to see all those intricate parts fitted together. You should try and post a quick video so we can see it in motion.


----------



## fatandy2003 (Apr 4, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Miscellaneous work - 10th day*
> 
> *Todays work*
> I had hoped to be able to mount the frame on the wall today, temporarily assemble the clock and then see if it would run. That didn't happen as a lot of small jobs had to be done first and it wound up taking a lot more time than planned. At the end of my last blog I was here with the clock temporarily assembled.
> ...


Looks fantastic so far Stefang! Can't wait to find out if it works.


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Miscellaneous work - 10th day*
> 
> *Todays work*
> I had hoped to be able to mount the frame on the wall today, temporarily assemble the clock and then see if it would run. That didn't happen as a lot of small jobs had to be done first and it wound up taking a lot more time than planned. At the end of my last blog I was here with the clock temporarily assembled.
> ...


Can't wait Mike!


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Miscellaneous work - 10th day*
> 
> *Todays work*
> I had hoped to be able to mount the frame on the wall today, temporarily assemble the clock and then see if it would run. That didn't happen as a lot of small jobs had to be done first and it wound up taking a lot more time than planned. At the end of my last blog I was here with the clock temporarily assembled.
> ...


Looking good Mike!


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Miscellaneous work - 10th day*
> 
> *Todays work*
> I had hoped to be able to mount the frame on the wall today, temporarily assemble the clock and then see if it would run. That didn't happen as a lot of small jobs had to be done first and it wound up taking a lot more time than planned. At the end of my last blog I was here with the clock temporarily assembled.
> ...


Anticipation, exactly what we have here. I can almost hear a heartbeat already. Mike, you are rounding 3rd and headed for home. Tough game but I think you will be the winner.


----------



## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Miscellaneous work - 10th day*
> 
> *Todays work*
> I had hoped to be able to mount the frame on the wall today, temporarily assemble the clock and then see if it would run. That didn't happen as a lot of small jobs had to be done first and it wound up taking a lot more time than planned. At the end of my last blog I was here with the clock temporarily assembled.
> ...


I was a few days "off" and near Rotterdam, but I have read all your blogs and as always I like your contributions. Hope you will succeed to finisch today.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Miscellaneous work - 10th day*
> 
> *Todays work*
> I had hoped to be able to mount the frame on the wall today, temporarily assemble the clock and then see if it would run. That didn't happen as a lot of small jobs had to be done first and it wound up taking a lot more time than planned. At the end of my last blog I was here with the clock temporarily assembled.
> ...


Thanks everyone. Today's the big day. I just have to turn two new bottoms for the weights as I realized overnight that I had made a mistake on how the bottoms lock, and I have to make some more arbor caps, a very quick and easy job. After that I'm good to go. I'll let you know the results whether good or bad.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

stefang said:


> *Miscellaneous work - 10th day*
> 
> *Todays work*
> I had hoped to be able to mount the frame on the wall today, temporarily assemble the clock and then see if it would run. That didn't happen as a lot of small jobs had to be done first and it wound up taking a lot more time than planned. At the end of my last blog I was here with the clock temporarily assembled.
> ...


Mike, you are amazing! You undertake this complicated build. You blog it. AND you plan on repeating the build *before* Christmas! On top of all that, you're having fun. I really like what you did with the weight/counterweight. Major improvement over the plastic tube.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Miscellaneous work - 10th day*
> 
> *Todays work*
> I had hoped to be able to mount the frame on the wall today, temporarily assemble the clock and then see if it would run. That didn't happen as a lot of small jobs had to be done first and it wound up taking a lot more time than planned. At the end of my last blog I was here with the clock temporarily assembled.
> ...


Thanks Candy. I just finished turning the two new bottoms and they are ready to go. After lunch I plan to mount the frame on the wall and get the clock assembled. I did run into a little trouble this morning though. I found that the bearing ring mounted on the top end of the pendulum had slipped to a crooked position while it was clamped and the glue was drying. I planed the front side even with the pendulum rod but I'm not sure if it will work. I will have to redo it, but I am hoping it might still work for the test today. If not, then I'm delayed till tomorrow. Dang!


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

stefang said:


> *Miscellaneous work - 10th day*
> 
> *Todays work*
> I had hoped to be able to mount the frame on the wall today, temporarily assemble the clock and then see if it would run. That didn't happen as a lot of small jobs had to be done first and it wound up taking a lot more time than planned. At the end of my last blog I was here with the clock temporarily assembled.
> ...


As frustrating as your Oops are to you you, it is encouraging, to me, anyway, that it's not all smooth sailing and you really are human like the rest of us. ;-)


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Miscellaneous work - 10th day*
> 
> *Todays work*
> I had hoped to be able to mount the frame on the wall today, temporarily assemble the clock and then see if it would run. That didn't happen as a lot of small jobs had to be done first and it wound up taking a lot more time than planned. At the end of my last blog I was here with the clock temporarily assembled.
> ...


If by human you mean imperfect Candy, I am a lot more human than you might think. I did cancel the test when I found out the pendulum wasn't going to work. It went in circles as it oscillated back and forth when I tried it, so I had to make a new ring and glued it up, so it won't be ready till tomorrow. A lot of other interesting stuff happened too, but I will save that for the blog as I'm sure everyone will have a good laugh.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*TITANIC II -11th day*

I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*










Since the pendulum wouldn't work I decided to just let the weight run the clock without the escapement pallet and pendulum to keep it running slow. I just wanted to see how smooth the gears ran. Everything ran fine until…..............the cord fastening pin broke through the thin wall of the weight and it came tumbling down together with a zillion tiny lead balls. This in turn pulled the drive train wheels out of kilter since the arbor end caps were too loose. The weight hit the floor and split and a few things went flying. Here is the broken weight and broken teeth on the minute wheel and escapement wheel pinions. *see below*




























I only have myself to thank for all these problems. The weight I made clearly wasn't up to the job and the arbor covers which I made from Linden wood were too soft and they didn't fit tight enough to keep the wheels aligned. Despite all the problems a lot of stuff did work well. The wheels ran smoothly before the accident and rewinding the clock was easy and smooth.

I ran out to the shop afterward and cut out the new pinions and spacers to replace the broken one.

A new weight was needed. The idea was to drill out a tube from solid wood. A lot of work that didn't turn out well. A Forstner bit was used for the job and I knew beforehand that there would be a great risk of it going crooked. A spade bit would have been preferable, but I didn't have one big enough. Also, the piece of timber wasn't large enough to allow for much variation, and sure enough it came out a side wall about 3/4 of the way in. A quick fix was needed so two pieces were hollowed out on one side and then the two were glued together. I plan to make a better one later, but for now I just want to get the clock running as I can't stand any more suspense!










There won't be time to do more before Friday as tomorrow is our shopping day. My plan is to make some better arbor caps and finish the weight and then I should be able to try out the clock again.

When I came in with the repaired pendulum, I gave it a swing to see if it ran smooth and just for fun I timed how long it would oscillate. Believe it or not, it kept swinging for a full 30 minutes, albeit with an ever decreasing arc, but even so I thought it was pretty amazing. So with such great balance and friction free running I'm not expecting any problems with it. *see below*










Many setbacks, but I really don't mind because the experience will allow me to avoid some future problems.

Thanks for reading. Sorry to disappoint everyone.


----------



## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


I admire you for your perseverance. You must be the one who is/was disappointed. Mike keep on going, I,m sure you will succeed and hopefully on friday it is fixt. 
Enjoy shopping with your wife tomorrow Mike and buy a cup of coffee or something else to forget your clock troubles.

BTW I found out today that making intarsia on a chevalet (for me) isn,t a great succes.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


Sounds like you're going through what I go through on lots of my projects. Good for you to just shake it off and make another piece and try again.

It is really looking nice.
Steve


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


That's too bad, Mike. Keep a positive view and it will turn out okay. Finding ways to recover from stuff like that is a big part of woodworking!!

Cheers, Jim


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


You have a great attitude, Mike! Glad the pendulum test went well after all the 'excitement'. You'll be finding those tiny lead balls forever. Hopefully you'll be able to smile at the memory they revive.


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


Some bad luck but some good experience which never hurts and we all go through that .
It's good news that the pendulum works that well and that in itself should get you thinking positive about the clock when done .
For the weight I would use a ABS pipe and veneer it which would make it a lot easier and simpler to make ,just a thought .

Keep well 
Klaus


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


Thanks for consolations everyone. I'm really not upset. It's pretty par for the course when doing something entirely new. I feel very confident it will work fine next time.

*Klaus* Yes you are right of course, but I am so weary of driving around trying find stuff for my projects.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


What doesn't kill us makes us stronger Mike. (or sometimes just cranky) 
I'm thinking by the time this beast is operational you are going to be pretty strong. 
I liked your weight tube and I hope you don't give up on it but at the risk of being a broken record I think a birds mouth would be much stronger. On smaller pieces they can be cut on a router table, just need to set up the proper angle.

Any way you decide to go I'm am convinced that it will be a great success.

Thanks for posting all the details both good and bad.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


Mike I'm just as down as you. The excitement in seeing the clock work with all those parts has got to be nerve racking. Enjoy the shopping day and give yourself a break before you break.


----------



## hunter71 (Sep 4, 2009)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


Just a lesson in clock building. Imaging the clocks built in the 1800's with the tools they had back then
.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


Beer OClock comes to mind!!

On a more serious note send me your address as I have a tray as a gift for you that you may appreciate!!!
To commemorate all your great work







!


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


Too bad there were a few minor issues Mike. Glad to see you are about to get it going big time ;-) Pun intended, of course.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


What would life be without some suspense and drama?

*Paul* it wasn't the glue joints that failed although one glue joint opened when it hit the floor. The wall where I sanded the inside was too week and the pin holding the string pulled right out at the end. I'm going to make another weight by hollowing two solid pieces using the cove cutting method on my table saw, glue them up and then turn them on the outside to round. I made a temporary one already, but I think I will just do a proper new one Friday and finish up on Saturday. I don't like half done projects.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


What a rollercoaster ride you're taking us on here Mike. It's better than an episode of Dallas. One thing we know for sure though, you'll persevere and triumph in the end.


----------



## ArworksIII (Nov 25, 2015)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


We could chat about making gears Mike as I do have some experience in making little pieces. I never knew there was schematics for clocks… intriguing


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


When everything is in place you might have to adjust the two grub screw to compensate any error in the frame verticality.
I have found this to be more easy with the pendulum rod without the bob : when the clock is running spontaneously (without a starting push), place the bob back on the rod.

Very good work and entertaining blog.
I am impatient to see it run.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


*Arworks III* That could be interesting. My son recently sent me an email with a link to some model working electric trains made from plywood. These were made with a laser CNC machine, but I prefer to do that kind of work on my scroll saw. Still, I feel that with an extra fine saw blade it would be possible to do such work, especially with the magnifying lamp I use. That said, any tips for doing miniature work would be more than welcome. Here is the link. I hope you find it interesting.

http://toyland.gizmodo.com/look-at-all-the-wonderful-wooden-gears-inside-this-elas-1744705666?trending_test_two_e&utm_expid=66866090-68.hhyw_lmCRuCTCg0I2RHHtw.4&utm_campaign=socialflow_gizmodo_facebook&utm_source=gizmodo_facebook&utm_medium=socialflow&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fm.facebook.com

*Sylvain* Thank you for that tip. I'm not sure how the clock could be running with the bob off. Do you mean with the pallet disengaged too?


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


No disappointment here Mike. That's how things work in real life. Glad to see you get back up and keep it going!


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


Mike, I am sorry for your back.

I mean the clock secured to the wall and everything in place including the escapement pallet, except the bob at the bottom of the pendulum rod.

The two grub screws for adjustment are on the pallet. You can not adjust them while on the bench.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *TITANIC II -11th day*
> 
> I tried to test out the clock yesterday in spite of having a bad glue-up on my pendulum bearing ring. It is supposed to be on the same plane as the pendulum rod, but the clamp I used to glue it up pulled it askew. I tried it out anyway and it oscillated back and for and in circles all at the same time. No big deal, as it was easy to fix but another 24hours for glue to dry. Here is the new one glued up. Never mind the blood, it's generic. *see below*
> 
> ...


Yes got it now Sylvain, thank you. I did reread the instructions that came with the clock and it was mentioned there too.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Clock completed, test delayed - day 12*










As you know from my last blog in this series, my first test of the new clock resulted in the main weight crashing down. I was standing next to it when it happened and my reaction caused my back to go a little bad.

My grandson was supposed to come and work on his project today, so I used yesterday to get the weight back in order and to clean up the shop. I had planned to make a new weight, but I determined that the problem was caused by the thinning out that I did on the inside of the ends. I just cut those away and re-glued the one glue joint that separated.

My back wasn't too good and my wife told me not to go into the shop, but I did anyway and now I am totally laid up for the time being, so I had to cancel today's session with my grandson.

The bottom line is that the clock is ready for testing, but I am not, so it will have to wait until I'm back on my feet. My wife is not too happy with me either since I didn't follow her good advice (she is a nurse after all). On the positive side I don't have to wash any dishes or do any DIY. I'm looking forward to a very boring weekend and perhaps beyond.

I just wanted you to know why my clock isn't running yet. No need to comment on my physical predicament as my frustration far outweighs the pain on my drama scale. The last time my back was this bad back in 1990 I was out of work for a whole year. I sure hope that will not be the case this time.

Sorry to disappoint. Thanks for reading.


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## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

stefang said:


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I'm sure that your other readers are feeling as sympathetic as I am. At least you are maintaining your sense of humour, and telling it like it is. While you are out of the shop, and the clock is not running, at least you can tell yourself that "time is not running out". (My dry sense of humour.)
Your rebuild in the photo looks great, and I hope that we soon hear the news that it is running perfectly. But . . . more importantly, that *you* are back up to full speed.
You are teaching us all a lot with this project. Well done.


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## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

stefang said:


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The clock is great Mike and you are a great guy too, but now you also have the similarity that you don't run. More than annoying, The clock can wait but I hope you are soon will be back in the shop.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

stefang said:


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Hi Mike, I'm sorry to hear about your back. Take care of it and the down time will give you time to reflect on what a great mechanism you have built!!

Cheers, my friend….............Jim


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


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Thanks, I just hope it goes over before I become grown fast to my Lazy Boy recliner. I do love my easy chair, but only after a good days work. The pain has eased off quite a bit already, so I'm hoping this will go over sooner rather than later.


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## hunter71 (Sep 4, 2009)

stefang said:


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Time heals everything, Keep in touch. Doug


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## toyguy (Nov 23, 2007)

stefang said:


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Hang in there my friend….... better days ahead.


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## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

stefang said:


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My wife would show little mercy for not doing what she said…....... LOL Hope you recover quickly


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

stefang said:


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The clock looks very good. Great job. There is a lot of stress on a clock mechanism and you don't realize it until you build one and have something fail DAMHIKT.


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## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

stefang said:


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Mike the clock is not working so time is standing still! LOL
Stay out of the shop and get well soon .

Klaus


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


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Thanks everyone, I am already getting better, so it shouldn't be long now. Actually I found out that the clock really isn't completely finished yet. I forgot to drill for and install the grub screws on the new pendulum bearing ring. I'm just hoping I didn't throw away the old one so I can recover those screws. I had to hand make them and I wouldn't want to do it again.

*Ken* Maybe your wife and mine are related.

*Bruce* Yes, I felt that when the weight crashed. I'm still a little mystified by what actually happened even after looking at the damage done. One problem was the look arbor caps which allowed the gears to get out of line. I am surprised that there wasn't more damage than there was.

*Klaus* Yes, time and me too.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

stefang said:


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Let's work on your back till the back gets you back to the clock. Say that ten times real fast. Take a break.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

stefang said:


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I too am fine with waiting till your back is better to see it run. But your tale of not doing what the wife told you reminded me of these signs which I see on facebook all the time. 
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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

stefang said:


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The clock looks great,get some rest and take it easy. In this case, time will have to wait for this man and the tide we can't do anything about ) Feel better my friend.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


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Getting old ain't for sissies Mike. 
My father in law used to have a remedy that he swore by for a bad back. He administered a hot bath on the outside and a hot rum on the inside simultaneously. It worked for him …..... or at least he didn't care as much about the pain…

Think some positive thoughts, relax, and read some of those old blogs on LJ. The time will fly.


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

stefang said:


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Oh, NO, Mike! Glad the healing has already begun. Don't rush it. Take care and … listen to your nurse-wife!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


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Thanks for the good wishes everyone.

I am always prepared to be disobedient to practice my Craft! Just don't tell my wife I said that.

*Paul* Is it ok to substitute brandy for the rum? Oh, and I don't have a bathtub. I guess I will have to drink it standing.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

stefang said:


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Oh man - back trouble sucks!! Don't push it - an extra day of rest and short work sessions.

The clock will wait (it can't tell time yet anyway


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

stefang said:


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So you're faking a back injury to get out of washing dishes? Ha! I tried that once and I ended up with a headache lol

Sorry to hear about the back Mike. Get better. The clock can wait. Oh I just realized, time waits for no man so get better soon


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

stefang said:


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Mike, You are an American transplant. Why are you adopting Norwegian stubbornness ? ;-) Sorry to hear you had to cancel your grandson's project. I think Paul may be on to something!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


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Thanks. I am feeling much better now thanks. I expect to be back to normal by Monday.

*Steve* No worry, it's like a short holiday, especially since the pain is going away.

*Bill* It's been pretty nice today just eating and sitting in my recliner. I could get used to this luxury life if I weren't so bored.

*Bob* My wife is the pinnacle of Norwegian stubborness plus she is a first born and I'm a 2nd born so that makes it even worse, but I always have the last word, and that last word is usually 'yes'.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

stefang said:


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Mike, I'm first born but only 1/4 Norwegian. I get last word too and like you it is 'yes', 'yes mam' or 'how high' ;-)


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


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Maybe the yes word has some evolutionary advantage, perhaps by allowing to live another day to father more children or to get back into the shop sooner.


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## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

stefang said:


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Hope you have a speedy recovery! Take care.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

stefang said:


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Rock around the clock.
Amazing Mike.
Merry Christmas,
Mads


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


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Thanks Mads and a Very Merry Christmas to you and your daughter too.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

stefang said:


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Thanks.
And wishes back to your family also.


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## adali (Feb 14, 2018)

stefang said:


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Hay,
you are very sensitive work
This job needs to be sensitive. 
I have never used too much weight.
To the bearing system, to the bearings, too much pressure.
İncreasing rubbing in the teeth.
İt also sounds very and bad.
My marbled clock is working 1.5 kg with 32 hours, and transitive, load on the clock 750 gr
See you later.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


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Thanks for the advice Arif. I still haven't touched the clock since my accident. I do plan to get it working in the near future.


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