# Woodworking vacation tidbits



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Setting up a hand plane*

So here's my first installment of some of the various tidbits I learned at Kelly Mehler's hand tool class this past week. Hopefully I will do justice to what I was taught.

As disclaimers are becoming popular-- here's mine-- this works for me!

Setting up a hand plane is not so hard once you do it a time or two, or twenty or forty. But it is doable. I'm skipping the sharpening information right now and going straight to set up. So I am going to assume a sharp blade.

First off, I'm going to set up a 5 1/4 junior jack plane which has a movable frog, cap iron, lever cap and lateral adjustment.

One of the first things that was one of those duh moments was setting the cap iron on that newly sharpened blade. Once you have a good edge, you want to keep it, so put the cap iron onto the blade sideways first.



Then slide the cap iron down to the bottom and twist it .



Next run the cap iron up to the edge of your blade setting it about 1/32nd from the edge. If you get it to close you won't get a shaving no matter what you do. If you set it back to far - you'll get chatter which is one of the things the cap iron was designed to eliminate. Turn the blade/cap iron combo over and tighten down the screw. Tight, but not to tight.



Next set the combo onto your frog. By the way-- locate the frog as close to the mouth opening as you can.



When you set the blade onto the frog, make sure the lateral adjustment is in the center of its swing.

Set the lever cap onto the combo and engage it. (Sorry guys, I missed taking a picture of this.) Now about that screw that the lever cap sits on/around-- it's there to hold the lever cap-- not to provide the pressure needed to hold the blade in place. Once your lever cap is in place, tighten the screw down until it is snug. Then engage the lever at the top of the cap. The pressure needed to engage this lever should be more than snug-- it should be tight. In fact, Deneb tightened mine down to the point where I would have needed to use a dowel to pop it up. I don't think I'll be doing it that tight all the time, but that's the idea. If your lever cap does not snug down give the screw a half turn and try again until you're set.

Next turn the plane upside down and sight down the sole (it helps to do this against a light colored background) and move the blade forward until it just peeks out from the mouth.





Once you see the blade, then turn it back until it almost disappears. Now you need to set the blade parallel to the sole of the plane. If you don't have a parallel blade you won't get a flat cut and you can get shavings all day long and not end up with a flat/smooth board. *Parallel is a must. *

One way to be sure your blade is parallel is to use a small scrape for test cuts.



Set your plane so that one corner is sitting on the scrape.



Take a pass and take note of the shaving - it's consistency, thickness, etc.



Set the plane's other corner onto the scrap and run another pass and check the shaving.



if the shavings are not the same your blade is not parallel. This is where the lateral adjustment comes into play.



Decide which shaving is heavier than the other and move the lever cap, *slightly* to the *heavy* scrap side.

Take another two passes, one on each corner and continue adjusting the lateral adjustment until you get two identical shavings.



Once you get to this stage-- you can get shavings, shavings and more shavings. And not just shavings but consistent shavings. Consistent is important to get a flat and smooth finished piece.



Well, I hope this is helpful to you.

Please feel free to ask questions or give comments on your thoughts on this process. I'm always open to more ideas. One class does not make me an expert!


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Setting up a hand plane*
> 
> So here's my first installment of some of the various tidbits I learned at Kelly Mehler's hand tool class this past week. Hopefully I will do justice to what I was taught.
> 
> ...


Pretty cool Betsy. Makes me want to get out my plane and play with it.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Setting up a hand plane*
> 
> So here's my first installment of some of the various tidbits I learned at Kelly Mehler's hand tool class this past week. Hopefully I will do justice to what I was taught.
> 
> ...


My envy meter has pegged out since you got to attend the school. So I will have to settle for living vicariously through your blog.


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## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Setting up a hand plane*
> 
> So here's my first installment of some of the various tidbits I learned at Kelly Mehler's hand tool class this past week. Hopefully I will do justice to what I was taught.
> 
> ...


Very good Betsy. I just purchased a couple planes to learn how to do this stuff. Your writings couldn't have come at a better time. Thanks for taking the time to do this.


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Setting up a hand plane*
> 
> So here's my first installment of some of the various tidbits I learned at Kelly Mehler's hand tool class this past week. Hopefully I will do justice to what I was taught.
> 
> ...


Very clear descriptions. Thank you for the pictures and great info.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Setting up a hand plane*
> 
> So here's my first installment of some of the various tidbits I learned at Kelly Mehler's hand tool class this past week. Hopefully I will do justice to what I was taught.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys. I'm glad that you like what I'm doing.


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## Taigert (Nov 20, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Setting up a hand plane*
> 
> So here's my first installment of some of the various tidbits I learned at Kelly Mehler's hand tool class this past week. Hopefully I will do justice to what I was taught.
> 
> ...


Your descriptive writting is excelent!
I never knew about gauging with the shavings from peice of scrap.
I love learning new things
Good job, Betsy


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Setting up a hand plane*
> 
> So here's my first installment of some of the various tidbits I learned at Kelly Mehler's hand tool class this past week. Hopefully I will do justice to what I was taught.
> 
> ...


Thanks Ed.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Making your own dowels*

Well I'm still pretty tuckered out from my vacation drive home so I'm only puttering around today. But one of the things I need to do is make pegs for my cutting board we made in class. The tenons are to be draw bored and for that you need a peg. So I've been messing around with making pegs/dowels today.

The first thing is that you can make a dowel from any type of wood. The straighter the grain the better. If your grain is not straight it will still work, but you should work with shorter pieces.

I only have a small piece of white oak for my board so I practiced with some red oak, it's not the straightest grain but it will do for demonstration purposes.

By the way - if you are learning a new trick like this - it helps to blog about it, because you have to think it through more thoroughly than you may if you were not trying to explain it to someone.

So here we go. First you need a scrap of the wood you want to use for a dowel - it needs to be at least a smidgen wider than the finished dowel. Set the scrap in a vise or other type of holding devise.



Using a *sharp* chisel - rive a piece a bit wider than the final dowel you need.



The straighter the grain the neater more precise the cutoff will be. You can see this red oak did not go down perfectly-- but I can still use it for the 1/4" dowel I'm working on.



Cherry did not split well at all. But it makes a nice wedge.



Next taper down the corners of the cutoff so that it's tapered at one end. I used a block with a channel plowed into it to hold the cutoff on an angle to get the corners down. Then used a block plane to do the clean up work.





You can also use a knife to taper the end of the cutoff. But I would not suggest using this particular knife as it is so dull it would not cut butter-but you get the idea.



Next you need a dowel plate. You can pick these up at most good hobby shops or Lie Nielson sells them also. They run about $45-50 and you can get in inches or metric. Set the desired diameter of dowel over a hole in your bench.



Insert the tapered end of the cutoff into that diameter hole.



Then just started pounding away at it. As the cutoff goes into the dowel plate you will see that the sides will ""flower" up on the sides. That's a good thing.



You need to be careful as you are driving the cutoff to make sure you are driving it straight. If it gets cocked at an angle your piece will either break or not be completely smooth when you are done.

Once the cutoff is through the plate, pull it out the back and you should have a pretty clean dowel/peg.



And for giggles if you want to make toothpicks, or just a smaller dowel, just move onto the next smallest hole.



Well - that's all the puttering for today. I'm headed off to watch a ballgame.

As always I appreciate your comments, suggestions or "you know that is not exactly right" help.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Making your own dowels*
> 
> Well I'm still pretty tuckered out from my vacation drive home so I'm only puttering around today. But one of the things I need to do is make pegs for my cutting board we made in class. The tenons are to be draw bored and for that you need a peg. So I've been messing around with making pegs/dowels today.
> 
> ...


Betsy,

This looks like an interesting technique. If memory serves me (and that is a big if) I believe that Gary did something like this for one of his projects. It sounds like you are having fun.

Have you gotten a car yet?


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## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making your own dowels*
> 
> Well I'm still pretty tuckered out from my vacation drive home so I'm only puttering around today. But one of the things I need to do is make pegs for my cutting board we made in class. The tenons are to be draw bored and for that you need a peg. So I've been messing around with making pegs/dowels today.
> 
> ...


It's good to see the energy and interest in woodworking.

One thing I noticed is that you are using a steel bench dog. It might be a god idea to substitute the dogs for wooden ones when using a plane or other tool that might get damaged if it hits the steel dogs. They are easy to make buy purchasing some 3/4" dowel.

Keep up the good work!!!!!!!!!!!


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making your own dowels*
> 
> Well I'm still pretty tuckered out from my vacation drive home so I'm only puttering around today. But one of the things I need to do is make pegs for my cutting board we made in class. The tenons are to be draw bored and for that you need a peg. So I've been messing around with making pegs/dowels today.
> 
> ...


thats cool. i always see those dowel plates when i look through my lie-Nielsen catalog but i never know what they were for. thanks for the post.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Making your own dowels*
> 
> Well I'm still pretty tuckered out from my vacation drive home so I'm only puttering around today. But one of the things I need to do is make pegs for my cutting board we made in class. The tenons are to be draw bored and for that you need a peg. So I've been messing around with making pegs/dowels today.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys.

Scott - nope no car yet. I've been looking and looking. But I really can't make a decision on what to get until I know what the insurance is going to give me on the other car. I want to keep payments as low as I can, imagine that.

John-- you are right about the dogs. I'm careful to move them lower than the top of the workpiece, but accidents happen so I will be making some wooden dogs soon.

TWW--glad to help. I enjoy doing these blogs and enjoy yours as well!


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## gator9t9 (Apr 4, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Making your own dowels*
> 
> Well I'm still pretty tuckered out from my vacation drive home so I'm only puttering around today. But one of the things I need to do is make pegs for my cutting board we made in class. The tenons are to be draw bored and for that you need a peg. So I've been messing around with making pegs/dowels today.
> 
> ...


Betsy Thanks so much for this blog as I had forgotten about the old way of dowel making. 
I think i saw Roy Underhill make dowels one time about 20 yrs ago ..

It seems as looking at your dowel that what you have after driving the oversized wood piece thru the Lie Nielsen
dowel maker hole …is a piece that may or may not be round or may or may not be torn on one side as yours seems to be …Is this just the way it happens or was this your first time or ???? 
I am not trying to be critical …just want to know if one can make quality dowels by hand …

and who won the ball game …..I know it wasn't the Mariners …as we seem to be mired in another crappy season…..
thanks again …


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Making your own dowels*
> 
> Well I'm still pretty tuckered out from my vacation drive home so I'm only puttering around today. But one of the things I need to do is make pegs for my cutting board we made in class. The tenons are to be draw bored and for that you need a peg. So I've been messing around with making pegs/dowels today.
> 
> ...


Mike-- thanks for reading my blog. I don't think you are being critical at all. This system works well when you start with a straight grained wood. White Oak is best. I was using red oak just for demonstration. But you can make dowels from any type of wood--you just need to be very careful and start with a piece that is just oversize.

Not every attempt will be perfect-- but you'll get close.

The Rays beat the Rangers.


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## Taigert (Nov 20, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Making your own dowels*
> 
> Well I'm still pretty tuckered out from my vacation drive home so I'm only puttering around today. But one of the things I need to do is make pegs for my cutting board we made in class. The tenons are to be draw bored and for that you need a peg. So I've been messing around with making pegs/dowels today.
> 
> ...


Imagine what our Grandfathers went through to make some of the fine old furniture that is still around today.
Nice blog Betsy.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Making your own dowels*
> 
> Well I'm still pretty tuckered out from my vacation drive home so I'm only puttering around today. But one of the things I need to do is make pegs for my cutting board we made in class. The tenons are to be draw bored and for that you need a peg. So I've been messing around with making pegs/dowels today.
> 
> ...


thanks Ed.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

*Got my planes today!*

Well, I finally have a really good tool gloat. I ordered these planes from Lie Nielson while I was at Kelly's school.

This is the 62 low angle jack plane.



This is the plane that I've really looked forward to getting. It's the 102 iron low angle block plane.



This plane is small, light, but sturdy. The best thing though is that it fits my hand very nicely.



When you have small hands and do small projects, it's nice to find a good quality tool that works for you. I'm looking forward to making some shavings with my new toys.


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Got my planes today!*
> 
> Well, I finally have a really good tool gloat. I ordered these planes from Lie Nielson while I was at Kelly's school.
> 
> ...


Betsy,

I want to look at these beauties, but the links are broken… :-(

Edit to add: Am I the only one who cannot view the images?


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Got my planes today!*
> 
> Well, I finally have a really good tool gloat. I ordered these planes from Lie Nielson while I was at Kelly's school.
> 
> ...


Betsy,

These are two beautiful planes. You have every right to be excited about them.

How about sharing a review of these when you have time to play with them.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

Betsy said:


> *Got my planes today!*
> 
> Well, I finally have a really good tool gloat. I ordered these planes from Lie Nielson while I was at Kelly's school.
> 
> ...


those are beautiful planes! thanks for the post!


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Got my planes today!*
> 
> Well, I finally have a really good tool gloat. I ordered these planes from Lie Nielson while I was at Kelly's school.
> 
> ...


Cool. I got a LN-62 this week as well Betsy. I cannot wait until this weekend to play with it.

Al, I can see the photos.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Got my planes today!*
> 
> Well, I finally have a really good tool gloat. I ordered these planes from Lie Nielson while I was at Kelly's school.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys, I've been playing a little with them. They are SWEEEEEETTTT. Right out of the box, shavings galore.

Wayne - you are going to have fun.

I really think the 102 is going to fill my needs for doing miniature stuff. Can't wait for the weekend. I'm still not able to get in the machine shop much because of medication, etc. and even though I'm having a lot of shoulder pain, etc. these planes came at a good time. The little one will see some work this weekend doing a few miniatures. I want to see if I can make a really, really small box with a lift lid.

Will let you all know how they work!


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Got my planes today!*
> 
> Well, I finally have a really good tool gloat. I ordered these planes from Lie Nielson while I was at Kelly's school.
> 
> ...


Please post a review when you get a chance. The 102 has been on my shopping list. I have the larger standard and low angle block planes and they are great. Been thinking it would be nice to have a 102 as well.


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## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Got my planes today!*
> 
> Well, I finally have a really good tool gloat. I ordered these planes from Lie Nielson while I was at Kelly's school.
> 
> ...


Both of those planes are a pleasure to use! You're gonna be very pleased with yourself. Heck I just found out in a recent post of Wayne's that you can use the 62 as a scraper plane by adding a blade ground at 90 degrees (which LN carries)...


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Got my planes today!*
> 
> Well, I finally have a really good tool gloat. I ordered these planes from Lie Nielson while I was at Kelly's school.
> 
> ...


Pretty nice! Now the fun starts!


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Got my planes today!*
> 
> Well, I finally have a really good tool gloat. I ordered these planes from Lie Nielson while I was at Kelly's school.
> 
> ...


Thinking about it, this might be the perfect pair of starter planes.

The LN-62 with a spare blade or two can be used for rough work, jointing to some degree, smoothing, scraping and shooting. Matched with the low angle block plane, most needs can be met. Perhaps a shoulder plane would be next on the list.

I would think there could be an argument made between the 60 1/2 and the 102. With the adjustable mouth, the 60 1/2 may be a bit more versatile. The 102 may be easier to use for some people. I've not actually used one. Hmmm. Woodcraft is on my way home tonight….lol


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## johnjoiner (Sep 28, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Got my planes today!*
> 
> Well, I finally have a really good tool gloat. I ordered these planes from Lie Nielson while I was at Kelly's school.
> 
> ...


Nice gloat, Betsy.

I'm especially envious of the 62.


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Got my planes today!*
> 
> Well, I finally have a really good tool gloat. I ordered these planes from Lie Nielson while I was at Kelly's school.
> 
> ...


Betsy,

I can see the photos now - I know you will enjoy using these planes!


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

Betsy said:


> *Got my planes today!*
> 
> Well, I finally have a really good tool gloat. I ordered these planes from Lie Nielson while I was at Kelly's school.
> 
> ...


Thanks all. I can't wait to use them on a proper project. Will let you know how it goes.


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