# they took time to set up but they stay sharp!!!



## Woodwrecker

Thanks for the review.
I'm thinking of getting a set of those.
I have some Stanley Fat Max chisels and like them a lot, but want to try a Japanese style without re-mortgaging the house.

I'm also looking at those new Stanley Sweet Hearts they are coming out with in September.
http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/More+Details+On+The+New+Stanley+Chisels.aspx?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+woodworkingmagazine+%28Woodworking+Magazine%29&utm_content=Google+Feedfetcher

Thanks again.


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## a1Jim

Good review


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## wch

I also have a set of newer China-made Irwin/Marples chisels, and a couple Japanese chisels that are probably a step up from the Grizzly ones. The Irwin chisels just don't hold an edge-after maybe a dozen strokes paring oak endgrain, the edge has some little parts that are visibly folded over, and I can feel that the resistance has increased. The Japanese ones are far superior in terms of edge longevity. I haven't had them for very long, but using a heavy mallet and chopping through birch plywood and solid oak has been no problem. Wrenchhead, I don't know about your experience with the Grizzly chisels, but I think my Japanese chisels can go somewhere between 4x and 8x as long between sharpenings, compared to the Irwins.


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## PurpLev

Thanks for the review. they are definitely reasonably priced.

how high of a sand paper grit do you go up to? you could probably get better results as it still seems like the secondary bevel on those is still showing scratch marks - unless those pics were taken out of the box?


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## Clarence

I have the Grizzley chisels also, and they seem to be good quality. However, I still do not understand the science or the logic of hollow-grinding the backs to within 1/16th of the cutting edge. Seems to me that after about half a dozen sharpenings your edge will be into the hollow, and your chisel will become a nail-puller.


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## PurpLev

clarence - as you sharpen the chisels, and flatten the back -you'd be taking material off of the back, and work that hollow out as you progress. so theoretically - you'll always have ~1/16 metal on the back from the cutting edge so to speak.


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## wrenchhead

Purplev
That was a pic from right out of the box. I go up to 2000 grit when I sharpen.

Clarence 
What perplev said.

Wood wrecker 
The stanley chisels look like they might be nice. I am just glad to have a lot of different sizes. It makes dovetailing and morticing so much easier and less room for error.


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## dkirtley

Woodwrecker:

You don't have to necessarily have to buy an entire set to start with. My personal weapon of choice is a hefty 1-1/4 socket firmer chisel but I am used to working with bigger stock. Get one in a size that you normally reach for and give it a spin. They are only about $12 each. Much cheaper than the $30 a pop for the proposed Stanley chisels.

The biggest difference between the quality and cheap chisels is edge retention. The handyman type chisels can be adequate for most stuff and If you already have a set that are performing fairly well, pick up some of a different type to fill a different niche. Some firmer chisels or full out mortise chisels would a nice addition to your toolbox. There are quite a few high quality makers at present and lots of high quality old stock to be found lurking in flea markets and as always, some of the tool dealers.


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