# Horizontal Router Table



## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

A while back I posted a question asking if anyone had recently purchased one of the MLCS Horizontal Router Tables. There were limited responses, but I thank those that did respond (o: Due to the limited responses I kind'a figured these MLCS router tables were not a big hit in the wood working community. So that, and considering my limited funds (old retired guy) I figured I'd make my own table. It's not pretty or fancy but it is quite functional and suits my needs perfectly. And I did incorporate a micro adjustment into the table that works perfectly. My needs at present include making base along with door and window casings for my house, using the approximate 465 BF of recently purchased Poplar. I made it so I can tilt the table to put a bit of a taper on the inside edge of the casings and base. Simple, but it's the look I want. I also stopped by Lowe's and picked up a 2 1/2 HP 14 amp RT1322 Skill brand router for the table. The router seems pretty good for the price but I'm a bit concerned about how long the digital speed control will stay working. I'd rather have a plain ol' wheel to turn for speed control like that of my Hitachi mounted under my vertical table. So anyways, here's a few photos of the horizontal router table. As said, not pretty or fancy but it is functional. For the time being it's sitting on top of my vertical router table. In time I'll find a proper place for it (o:


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

I like your simple height adjustment.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

That's awesome, you should definitely post it as a project. For some reason wood projects that allow the purchase of more tools to make other projects seem to be more popular than others.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

That looks to be one handy unit Bill, well done!

I've "needed" one several times over the years, but when in the middle of a project, I always tell myself I'll build one and then find a work-around. It's always nicer (and safer) to keep the workpiece on the table vs. the fence.


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## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

Thanks for the kudo's, gents but I can't take much credit for the design. I got the build idea from the You Tube video below, but I did make a few changes from the video. As in the vid, I glued the "box" together but leaving the right side unglued, thinking I would make a drawer for that side. In the end I opted not to make a drawer as removal of the top surface for interior access is easy, just lift it up. Great for bit or other storage. And I didn't glue the bottom, I used screws to hold it in place. For the back piece/fence I went with 1/2 in. MDF instead of 1/4 in. masonite for a good stiff surface. Top and back pieces came out to a perfect 90* (thank you God!!) The router is bolted to 1/2 in. MDF with 3/4 in. melamine as a stiffener. And the top is a bit bigger than that in the video, about 30 in. x 13 in. I included a "channel" about 4 in. high x 4 in. wide that spans from below the router bit opening to the left side for dust collection, it works great, all the debris gets sucked into a shop vac via a small Dust Deputy. I expect it should be good for shaping/making my moldings. I'm a fan of loose tenon joinery and the table should also be really good for the mortising. And the "micro" adjuster should be helpful with height adjustment. I'll take a few interior pics tomorrow.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Nice and simple design. Woodsmith magazine published a more complex version a few years back.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

My Horizontal router is a bit different than Bill's. Mine works on a flat plane for X and Y axis travel, but to tilt I need to use a wedge. It's design I got from John Ten Eyck here is a good page to see his, It has changed a number of times through the years, so there may be something he has out there more current than this one.


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## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

Those are mighty nice tables for sure. But I wanted to keep it simple and straight forward, not make a project out of it. I've done a few test runs and it works perfectly for shaping my moldings. I also test cut a few mortises in some scrap Ash. 1/4 and 3/8, and the results were good, so I'm a happy camper. Maybe sometime down the road I'll make some changes, such as those included in the posts above, when I get the time and ambition at the same time LOL. I really like the "X - Y" but I figure the fewer moving parts there are the less chance there is of "slop" or unwanted wiggles.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

That seems like a lot to expect from an inexpensive router!

I bought the MLCS table off a guy pretty cheap. Used it once and can't figure what the use is over a table.

One day when the right project comes along I'll add an XY table to use as a horizontal mortiser.


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## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

14 Amp / 2.5 HP (claimed) so I'm not too concerned about it. For base and casings I'm using 1 inch diameter bit to produce long'ish cove cuts about 1/4 to 5/16 in. deep. Making two passes and the motor gets only mildly warm. Though maybe I should go three passes.

It is an inexpensive tool compared to many if not most. I've most always been a tool snob regarding country of origin. All of my power tools are brand name and most are labeled Made In The USA. And most all are many years old and well used. This Skill brand router I bolted to the table I believe is china made. With this BS now global economy it can be challenging to get a tool that doesn't at least have some chineze parts, if not totally made in china. I guess it depends on how much $$ you're willing to part with.


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## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

Welp, so far this little horizontal table has worked great, no issues what so ever. I've run hundreds of LF of Poplar thru it for door/window trim, 3 passes each. Also ran about 100 ft for the base so far, and I have another +,-250 ft of base to make up. The cheapie Skill router I bought for the table has performed flawlessly. Due to irregularities in many of the openings, I cut a bunch of splines 1/8 in. thick on the band saw, and put a 1/8 in. bit in the router. I cut slots in the 45s of several of the door and window casings and used the splines to produce nice even top surfaces at the 45s. I splined a couple of the butt joints of the 5 1/2 in. base too. Can't hardly see the joints in the splined base. Wish I would have put one of these things together years ago. And the cheapie Skill router, for $129.00 I'm surprised at how well it's performed. I'm a happy camper (o:


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

I haven't thought to use a horizontal router table for spline joints. Great thinking. I've been using a spline jig on the table saw.


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