# 13" bench top planer (Reconditioned)



## Konomigon

That store just opened up where I live and I bought the same Rigid planer. I had the same experience with snipe as well. I wasn't using on a project where it would show, like a table top or something. I haven't tried any adjustments to correct. If you find some something that works please share.


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## papadan

I've had the Ridgid TP1300 for almost 9 years now and it is the best. Stopping the snipe completly is very easy, adjust the infeed and outfeed tables so that the outside edge is higher than the inside edge. The inside should be dead even with the platten. The reason for raising the outside is so that with the weight of the wood on it, it will be even too. Raise the outside about 1/8" with the screws under the table that go in towards the platten. For longer boards (5'+) you need to hold the end of the board up as it starts into the planer and as it comes out the other side or set up some roller supports to hold it.


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## spindle

If it's a longer board try lifting up on the leading end (the one that's already gone through the planner). There's also adjustment screws for the outfeed table that will raise the leading end. Try using playing cards between the adjustments and the table. That will let you know if it's really the problem and how much it needs adjusting. The Ridgid site also has some good information.

Thanks,
Greg


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## Mikeyf56

I have owned mine for 4 years, and it my most valued powertool.


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## HeirloomWoodworking

Yep, I have one also. It has planed MILES of lumber for me.

I use it daily and have come rely on it heavily, The quality of my work increased greatly when I started using this unit in my own humble shop.

Great price as well….I was thinking I paid around $350 for mine.

Thanks for sharing
Trev


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## skywalker01

I also have one. You HAVE to support the ends of the work when you start and when you stop. I find it's easy enough to lift lightly on the board for the first couple of inches until the second wheel grabs it and also lift lightly when it's coming out. Not enough to actually pick it up just enough to not let it fall. Better to be high than too low cause your next pass will easily take off that excess. I pretty much never have snipe because of this. The best thing would be to have a landing table or roller or something to accept the wood when it rolls out, and put this only slightly higher than the bed level. Very nice tool though. Cost me about $400 and came with a nice stand, extra blades and all the tools to remove them. Thanks


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## Beginningwoodworker

Congrats on your new planer.


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## azwoodman

I just got mine too and it is my first experience with a planer so I dont have anything to compare it to but it sure is fun to use! I practiced on a 2×4 until I got the hang of it and then planed down some 8/4 hard maple for a cutting board that I am making (I'll post pictures soon…). It seems to work great but I am having the same snipe issue… I'll have to tweak it a little bit i guess… Congrats on the new tool!


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## ellen35

I've had one for about a year. It is a workhorse. Keep the tables waxed and do what papadan suggests and the snipe is nearly nonexistant. I also feed my wood at a slight angle. That has virtually eliminated snipe. Also check out this website:
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21466&highlight=ridgid+planer+snipe
The ridgid forum is very helpful.
Ellen
That is an incredible price too!


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## a1Jim

Good review and great price.


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## dbhost

That is a SMOKING deal on that particular planer. Did you get it at Home Depot or where did you score such a deal?

One thing I did notice is the recommendations to support the lumber as it goes in, and comes off. That is what I do with my Ryobi AP1301 and it eliminated snipe entirely… I just wish I had that 4" dust port you do…


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## rtb

I've had one for for a couple of years and yes it does seem to have a little snipe problem but since you have to get the output anyway its almost(or will be) automatic to support whats coming through, and I don't think that this problem is unique to the rigid. My previous planer was a used ryobi 10" which the previous owner had built a cabinet for it with about30" of additional out feed which was mostly just something that was in the way.


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## NBeener

Didn't I also see that if you put boards directly in front of it and directly behind it, you'll have the snipe-if any-on the sacrificial first and last boards??

That IS a smokin' deal. I've been wanting a planer. That MAY be too good to pass up (Heaven help me…..)!


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## skywalker01

Unfortunately the board will still fall down when leaving the planer ( due to weight hanging over the back edge of the planer), even if there is another one right behind it.


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## Fireguy

Thanks for all the tips, I am going to give it a try this week I hope. I purchased some planned walnut from one of the big box store yesterday and OMG it was about $16 a bf. I think I am going to take it back and get some rough sawn to work with. Even with cutting a couple of inches off to get ride of the snipe it would be much ceaper.


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## stevemc

Where did you get such a great deal?


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## Fireguy

Made the recommended adjustments and no more snipe. Thanks for all the help and input. I purchased some walnut for $2.50 a bf and planed it down. It is amazing how beautiful the wood looks after one pass. So on my fist small box that I made with this wood that I planed myself it was a savings of about $37 dollars over wood form the big box. I think it will add up fast.

I was at Heme depot and the current price is $399.00

The store I bought the planer from is Direct Tools and it is located in an outlet mall in Johnson creek Wisconsin.


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## TurnTurnTurn

Where did you find the 10% off coupon?


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## Fireguy

they gave it to me when i stopped in the store.


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## MedicKen

Snipe is something that you will get form any planer or jointer. There are adjustments that can be made to improve it. Another option is to also build a small sled that will fit inside the planer to run the boards on.


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## renaissance_guy

I always go for reconditioned products whenever they are available. I learned to do this in the 80's when I worked for Atari. I learned from Atari that reconditioned products are individually worked on by a technician. They get special attention that products rolling of an assembly line do not get.


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