# Glue for laminated bowls



## kmetzger (Jun 4, 2013)

I've been turning 14" laminated bowls lately and can't figure out why the blanks keep going out of true in the process. The wood I'm using for gluing up the laminates is bone dry tropical hardwoods, air-dried here in Mexicn my first one I used Gorilla glue and sprayed too much water on the adjoining laminates and the wood moved constantly while turning. Lesson learned. So on the one I'm working on now I used Titebond III and I'm having a similar problem. Not quite as bad but enough to be annoying. I wasn't sure that regular yellow glue would hold up when the bowl is washed.









Any suggestions?


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Titebond III is the appropriate glue for this application.

In my experience, problems like this relate to other lack of flatness or inadequate clamping/curing time.

If the adjoining pieces aren't dead flat, the glue joint can fail. I have a drum sander and make sure the pieces I am laminating are dead flat, then spread a thin coat of glue on both sides before clamping.

I let the glue in my laminations cure at least overnight, longer if possible. Though the joint will bond in a much shorter time, full curing takes much longer.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

My experience with TB3 is that it shrinks and turns dark making it very noticeable in turnings. I've heard the same from other woodturners. I use it only for outdoor projects. But I'm not sure if TB2 holds up to submersion. I think that you will need to seal the wood anyway if that is a concern.


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## kmetzger (Jun 4, 2013)

Thanks, Gerry. The laminates were milled on the jointer and thickness planer and were perfectly flat, no gaps. It looks like I started turning the blanks too soon after the initial gluing. I'll do it your way next time.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Does your problem have anything to do with glue line creep? Think read if the article will find some answers as well as what has already been provided. Posted a picture of my only glued up turning couple years ago. While didn't experience any creep it can be annoying for turners that do lot of laminating.

http://brownellfurniture.com/glue-line-creep-study/


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I don't know much about turning but I have
found plastic resin glue dries hard and stable.
It is the sort used in plywood generally.


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## kmetzger (Jun 4, 2013)

I checked out the article on glue creep. Very good. Here's another one:
"The bowl is allowed to sit for another 30 days after it is assembled. We have
added a lot of moisture into the wood around the glue joints. This wait allows
the assembly to achieve a uniform moisture content and for the adhesive to
TOTALLY cure. Yes, glues develop enough strength that it can be handled in a
short period and we hear folks talking about such things as waiting 5, 10, 20,
or 60 minutes. But, a 100% cure of the adhesive will take up to 30 days or
more." http://www.inspirepoint.com/woodturning/segmented-bowl-glue-line-creep-2101-.htm


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

Glued and turned a lot of segmented turnings, all with tblll. I prefer the darker glue line to the more noticeable line from yellow. Gorilla pva dries pretty clear. Prefer to allow the fully glued piece to sit for at least 24 hrs, longer if cold / humid. Prefer to rough cut the shape, then let the piece sit for a day or 2 to stabilize, longer if its a "show" piece. Never had an issue with creep in the short term. After a year or 2, almost all pieces have at least some minor creep, i.e. , a very small line can be felt. Final wall thickness plays into it - thin walls 1/8" or less) dont have as much glue surface left and with a little moisture moving in and out, things creep. Wider walls with more glue surface are more stable.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Kim like the link you posted thanks!


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