# Used Grizzly G1023



## ClintH (Feb 16, 2013)

Hello all,
I am new to the forum and I am looking for a little expertise. I have been using the old circular saw with guide in place of a table saw for years but have decided now is the time to upgrade. I was orignally looking at the craftsman or rigid professional contractor saws in the $550-600 range, but I read on here and on other forums about issues getting them setup and keeping them true. Then I started looking at the hybrid saws in the $800 dollar range but I would prefer not to spend that much (family, two kids, in the middle of a house remodel so money is tight).

While perusing craigslist I came across a used Grizzly G1023 that the guy was asking $650. He said it was purchased about 20 yrs ago but he is a hobbiest and it has seen light use. A few years ago he upgraded to the shop fox fence and rail system. From the pictures it looks like it is in good shape. Unfortunatly its about three hours away, so I can't just hop over and check it out.

So to the questions; I have read that the older grizzlys had iffy quality especially when it came to the flatness of the table top. Is this true? Also he says it is left tilt blade, but all the info I can find on that age of saw says they are right tilt. The power switch is on the right side and the handwheel for the tilt is on the left, which to me means right tilt. Am I missing something? I would eventually like to add dust collection to it, but can't find any info on if it has a dust port. I was thinking if I could talk him down to around $550 then it would be a good buy. Any opinions on this deal? Thanks.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

take a straight edge with you and check the table top for flatness yourself. i prefre a left tilt saw, but many WWs get along well with right tilts. quickest way to verify tilt is to look at the front of the saw and check the bevel opening in the front of the saw .

right tilt:









left tilt:









on right tilts, the slot goes to the left as the blade bevels to 45*. on left tilts, the slot goes to the right as the blade bevels to 45*. check the pics he provided and you'll know the tilt definitively. personally, a 6 hour RT for a saw that isn't ~ 90% of what i'd want isn't something i'd do. good luck.


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## BorkBob (Jan 11, 2011)

I bought a 1 yr old 1023SL with a Mulecab sliding table, a Freud dado set, several Freud blades, and an Incra miter gauge for $550. I gladly drove 5 hrs. one way to get it. I realize this was not an everyday bargain but $650 for a 20 yr. old saw is high IMO.

It sounds like a right tilt saw to me. Are you OK with that? Are you able and willing to replace the belts and deal with other issues such as arbor bearings or motor failure? Do you have 240v service or will that increase the cost? I'd be in the $4-450 range, maybe $500 if it's really clean and quiet.

I've learned to decide what I want, how much I'm willing to pay and then be patient. It has helped temper my inclination to be a grouchy old phart.


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## shawnmasterson (Jan 24, 2013)

it would have to be in showroom condition at that price. 3 hours away is about 150 miles that's over $100 in fuel. I went 800 on mine, but it is a Powermatic 66 with a new 3HP baldor motor, 54" fence and it has a full cast top. there is no wood in the saw Iron from left to right. I would hold out unless he is willing to go to 350-400 because you have to figure mileage into the final price. I would try to squeeze on him over the phone because if you drive 150 miles to look at it then he thinks he has you. if you are going to give up the space then go for a cabinet saw with a 3HP or better. remember a quality cabinet saw will be the last one you ever need to buy. also don't be scared of 3phz. I have seen 5HP uni-saws go for 400 cause they were 3phz. in my research I have found you can buy a panel to make your own rotary converter for 200+ the cost of the used idler motor. my 3phz converter cost me 200+50 for the motor and it is a 7.5 hp that setup will run any machine up to 5HP so now I can run all kinds of 3phz machines from it. it my be a little more upfront to go 3phz but you can get heavier machines down the road for a lot less.

happy hunting and be patient I searched over a year for my planer


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P









A new one is around 800.00 sans freight.

Welcome to LJ's ClintH


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

*that's over $100 in fuel. *

150 estimated miles each way is a 300 mile round trip. at 20mpg, that's 15 gallons. at $4/gal, that's $60, not $100. still not insignificant or am i missing something?


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## gtbuzz (Sep 19, 2011)

@waho6o9,

Be careful with the G0715P - it's got table mounted trunnions and not cabinet mounted ones. Might not be a big deal to some but I've gone through two of these saws already that arrived to me defective and I'm having a very big issue trying to get my money refunded.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Thanks for the info gtbuzz.

I hope you get your issues resolved.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

If you want a table saw in the 500 range think about new Ridgid 4512(they have their blade alignment issue worked out) or a used Powermatic 66. I'm big fan of Grizzly tools but their quality is much better now than it was 20 years ago


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## ClintH (Feb 16, 2013)

Thanks for the replies everyone. Sounds pretty universal to wait for a better deal. I might also just bite the bullet and get a new saw. 240V is not a problem, my garage is unfinished and the electrical panel is in the garage. I will be finishing it in the next few months and I was planing on running a few 240V outlets around the garage anyway. Oh and my truck gets around 12-14mpg, darn that big V8!!


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## ClintH (Feb 16, 2013)

Thanks Jim. The more I look at saws and research the more I am leaning towards a cabinet saw. I think my original price range was too optimistic. I am going to have to break open the piggy bank and jump to the next price bracket. All the used PM 66s that I have seen people are asking around 1200-1600. It seems people are very proud of their used tools here in the northwest.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Clint
Here's a blog written by our #1 table saw guru, Knotscott wrote that has tons of good information that might be helpful.

http://lumberjocks.com/knotscott/blog/32154


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

"I might also just bite the bullet and get a new saw."

Well, here ya go. I got my 1023RLW in December. Looove it!


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

i'm with jim when he suggests the 4512. just because someone in another part of the country was unfortunate enough to get one of the defective units doesn't mean you necessarily will also. nothing ventured nothing gained. buy one and see if you like it. it's returnable if you don't. i'm pretty sure that cannot be done with grizzlies, sawstops, powermatics or unisaws.

FWIW, michael fortune, a noted band saw expert and custom furniture designer/builder, uses a ridigd bs1400 as his "go to" saw, even though he has other, more expensive saws in his shop. he doesn't use a premium tool (the 1400 is notably the weakest of all ridgid stationary power tools) in his work. my point is, don't underestimate the utility of a tool based on it's price. i sold a unisaw and kept two contractor saws as they fit my space and woodworking requirements. big isn't always better. wouldn't it be better for the utility of your tool budget to possibly find a $400 saw (4512 less a HF "20% off any single item" coupon) and put the savings towards more tools/accessories/materials or the *"family, two kids, ........house remodel "*? just my $.02.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

An older 1023 in good condition could be worth $500 or so IMO, but it depends in part which fence is on it. A Shop Fox Classic or Shop Fox Original fence are a plus over some of the older Griz fences. Be sure it's 3hp single phase too….dunno if they ever offered a 3 phase version, but they did offer a 2hp version. Table flatness isn't a big deal (within reason)...it'd take a pretty significant deviation from flatness to effect the cut.

It's likely a right tilt….the left tilt would have been a G1023SL which didn't exist 20 years ago….the best way to tell is to look at the front handwheel's relation to the "smiley" arc. If the blade is at 90°, the handwheel will travel to the left if it's right tilt, to the right if it's left tilt.

right tilt:









left tilt:


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