# Shaker Cherry Nightstand - Handtool heavy



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

*Entry One: Starting off*

I'm new to the blog series, so I'm afraid some of this will be redundant:

I want to build a Shaker-style cherry nightstand for my fiance'. It's going to be as handtool-heavy as it can be until my shoulder gives out. She'd like it to be 21"W x 19"D x 22"H. I'm going to construct it entirely from 1" rough cherry stock that was given to me (free!) by a friend. I'm using the "design as I go" approach & will size the parts as I go. I'd like a single shallow drawer in the front and although atypical to style, my fiance' prefers it to be on the bulky side with untapered legs. Wish me luck & thanks for looking!

Here's the raw wood scored from a good friend, Dale. There's some structural hemlock, nice hickory, and hard maple in the pile. The cherry's been moved to the shop:










Here's the cherry coarsely ripped & ready for general glue-up:










The legs have been glued up & are ready for planing square:










A day of planing is really a day of sharpening!










Getting started on the legs using a plane jack & Stanley #7 with Hock










Early planing:










Getting there!










Fruits (shavings) of my labor:










Planing the legs paired for thickness:










Legs finished until final smoothing & dimensioning:










Cutting the top boards to length on my new radial arm saw:










Top glued up with my hodgepodge of clamps and cawls:










Shameless plane picture:










Getting the parts together:










Hey, I told you guys, "not today!"










Getting stareted on my horribly cupped top (Stanley #5 with Hock):










That's where I'm at now. I need a few days of planing my cupped top. No turning back now, as my planer is 13"! I'm going to start working on the front rails & aprons this weekend hopefully. Suiting up for chopping some serious mortises. Will share as I go! Thanks for looking!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Entry One: Starting off*
> 
> I'm new to the blog series, so I'm afraid some of this will be redundant:
> 
> ...


very very nice picturebook 
you seems to find out of the serie thing 
and a shameless plane photo I agreee…...LOL 
I like that havye screwdriver you have there not easy to find those theese days bu luck 
now you have gone down the slipperys lane you going to have a good ripsaw as well with two sawbench
so the Rastusarius can have a rest too 

take care
Dennis


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Entry One: Starting off*
> 
> I'm new to the blog series, so I'm afraid some of this will be redundant:
> 
> ...


Ha! thank you, Dennis! It was upon your gentle urging that I investigated the blog series. Who doesn't enjoy a shameless plane photo That long-handled Stanley is one I found at an antique market in Pennsylvania. It was still wrapped in the original oiled paper when I discovered it. As a user versus collector, I quickly trashed the paper & put it to use. Nothing feels better to remove a plan iron than a giant vintage straight slot. I'm certainly sliding down the slippery slope of power tools, although my heart rests with the vintage tools. I considered crosscutting that long board board by hand but the rastusarius was beckoning me. Thanks & take care yourself, Dennis.


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

Bertha said:


> *Entry One: Starting off*
> 
> I'm new to the blog series, so I'm afraid some of this will be redundant:
> 
> ...


Amazing! I really like this pictorial adventure in furniture making with handtools. That's a nice low knob no 7….with a thin whispy shaving burping out.
Thanks for sharing the trip with us.


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## HighRockWoodworking (Mar 30, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Entry One: Starting off*
> 
> I'm new to the blog series, so I'm afraid some of this will be redundant:
> 
> ...


Great collection of planes!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Entry One: Starting off*
> 
> I'm new to the blog series, so I'm afraid some of this will be redundant:
> 
> ...


Thanks Ratchet! I'm not trying to prove anything not using powered tools but I'm going to try to feature as many nonpowered tools as possible. It's a nice way for me to drag out a project & as a gift for my fiance', it seems a bit more personal that way. Good eye on my low-knob 7. I think it's a type 8, corrugated. I recently bought a gorgeous Sweetheart #8 but she's waiting for a new tote to be fashioned. Thanks for tuning in.


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## tdv (Dec 29, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Entry One: Starting off*
> 
> I'm new to the blog series, so I'm afraid some of this will be redundant:
> 
> ...


I love the plane section (can't believe Mads ain't spotted that yet) smooth shavings
Trevor


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Entry One: Starting off*
> 
> I'm new to the blog series, so I'm afraid some of this will be redundant:
> 
> ...


Thanks TDV, that's why I issued the redundancty disclaimer; Mads discovered the project before the first shaving hit the ground! And thin shavings to you, Al


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Bertha said:


> *Entry One: Starting off*
> 
> I'm new to the blog series, so I'm afraid some of this will be redundant:
> 
> ...


Look like fun to me, that a sweet collection of hand planes. thanks for posting enjoy yourself…bc


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Entry One: Starting off*
> 
> I'm new to the blog series, so I'm afraid some of this will be redundant:
> 
> ...


Thanks Blackcherry! That shameless plane shot is only of the common users (I have the disease, documented). I greatly value your opinion & hope you'll tune in for the project.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Entry One: Starting off*
> 
> I'm new to the blog series, so I'm afraid some of this will be redundant:
> 
> ...


Hi,
Looking good, but do not disturb with those planes, it is not possible to think, and the mouse keeps moving back to that picture.
You need to make a plane cabinet for the planes!
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Entry One: Starting off*
> 
> I'm new to the blog series, so I'm afraid some of this will be redundant:
> 
> ...


Mads, I certainly DO need to make a plane cabinet. It's on my list, my very long list


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## JasonD (Jul 26, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Entry One: Starting off*
> 
> I'm new to the blog series, so I'm afraid some of this will be redundant:
> 
> ...


>> "Mads, I certainly DO need to make a plane cabinet. It's on my list, my very long list"

Same here! 

By the way, is it just me or are there few things in life that give you the feeling of looking down to see a pile of fresh shaving at the end of a good session in the shop?


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Entry One: Starting off*
> 
> I'm new to the blog series, so I'm afraid some of this will be redundant:
> 
> ...


The shameless plane picture made my day.

Totally going to do that in my next blog entry…but maybe I'll use saws.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Entry One: Starting off*
> 
> I'm new to the blog series, so I'm afraid some of this will be redundant:
> 
> ...


Shameless saw picture works!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

*Part 2- top & aprons*

OK, now I've planed the top flat (Stanley #7 , #6, and #5). Getting rid of the cup cost me quite a bit of wood & I'm approaching 3/4" thickness now. There are some deep gouges left by my #5 that my #4 can't quite reach but I'd like the project to retain its hand-hewn character. I uncovered wormholes along the way that I'll try to feature prominently. Plane lovers (non-plane lovers, please forgive me for going on about them) will probably spot that #8 in the background, awaiting refurb & sitting with a Paul Hamler scraper in the cockpit . That #4 is a Sweetheart with a replacement handle. I fashioned the handle out of Wenge for weight & general coolness. It's one of my favorite planes & use it with the original blade.



















Now, I've got my front rails & aprons cut to size. I'm off to joint with the #7. The #7 on cherry is as nice as it gets. This one's got a Hock in it, allowing me one long continuous shaving. Mads will likely spot that chisel in the background. It's a Japanese Damascus that I found at an antique mall handle-less. The handle's cocobolo with a brass ferrule from Lee Valley.



















Now to mark out the mortises & do some math. No fancy tools here to brag about, just a Shop fox cutter & crown mortise gauge. My plan is to cut the tenons on the powered saw & chop the mortises by hand. We'll see how the rest of the weekend goes.










Thanks for looking & happy shavings!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Part 2- top & aprons*
> 
> OK, now I've planed the top flat (Stanley #7 , #6, and #5). Getting rid of the cup cost me quite a bit of wood & I'm approaching 3/4" thickness now. There are some deep gouges left by my #5 that my #4 can't quite reach but I'd like the project to retain its hand-hewn character. I uncovered wormholes along the way that I'll try to feature prominently. Plane lovers (non-plane lovers, please forgive me for going on about them) will probably spot that #8 in the background, awaiting refurb & sitting with a Paul Hamler scraper in the cockpit . That #4 is a Sweetheart with a replacement handle. I fashioned the handle out of Wenge for weight & general coolness. It's one of my favorite planes & use it with the original blade.
> 
> ...


good to see you get your execise …..LOL
its looking good sofare I of to the shop now after this kick from you and Mads 
I think I can manage a few hours down there even though my back is killing 
me after a crazy week on nightshift

take care
Dennis


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Part 2- top & aprons*
> 
> OK, now I've planed the top flat (Stanley #7 , #6, and #5). Getting rid of the cup cost me quite a bit of wood & I'm approaching 3/4" thickness now. There are some deep gouges left by my #5 that my #4 can't quite reach but I'd like the project to retain its hand-hewn character. I uncovered wormholes along the way that I'll try to feature prominently. Plane lovers (non-plane lovers, please forgive me for going on about them) will probably spot that #8 in the background, awaiting refurb & sitting with a Paul Hamler scraper in the cockpit . That #4 is a Sweetheart with a replacement handle. I fashioned the handle out of Wenge for weight & general coolness. It's one of my favorite planes & use it with the original blade.
> 
> ...


Sorry to hear about the back, Dennis. These heavy old tools take a toll on one's spine. It doesn't hurt to sit in one's shop and look at wood Health to you, al.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Bertha said:


> *Part 2- top & aprons*
> 
> OK, now I've planed the top flat (Stanley #7 , #6, and #5). Getting rid of the cup cost me quite a bit of wood & I'm approaching 3/4" thickness now. There are some deep gouges left by my #5 that my #4 can't quite reach but I'd like the project to retain its hand-hewn character. I uncovered wormholes along the way that I'll try to feature prominently. Plane lovers (non-plane lovers, please forgive me for going on about them) will probably spot that #8 in the background, awaiting refurb & sitting with a Paul Hamler scraper in the cockpit . That #4 is a Sweetheart with a replacement handle. I fashioned the handle out of Wenge for weight & general coolness. It's one of my favorite planes & use it with the original blade.
> 
> ...


Yes this is really nice hand work, love plane cherry wood. Enjoy…BC


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Part 2- top & aprons*
> 
> OK, now I've planed the top flat (Stanley #7 , #6, and #5). Getting rid of the cup cost me quite a bit of wood & I'm approaching 3/4" thickness now. There are some deep gouges left by my #5 that my #4 can't quite reach but I'd like the project to retain its hand-hewn character. I uncovered wormholes along the way that I'll try to feature prominently. Plane lovers (non-plane lovers, please forgive me for going on about them) will probably spot that #8 in the background, awaiting refurb & sitting with a Paul Hamler scraper in the cockpit . That #4 is a Sweetheart with a replacement handle. I fashioned the handle out of Wenge for weight & general coolness. It's one of my favorite planes & use it with the original blade.
> 
> ...


great start, cherry wood acts very well when worked with hand tools I never have a problem unless it's figured cherry.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Part 2- top & aprons*
> 
> OK, now I've planed the top flat (Stanley #7 , #6, and #5). Getting rid of the cup cost me quite a bit of wood & I'm approaching 3/4" thickness now. There are some deep gouges left by my #5 that my #4 can't quite reach but I'd like the project to retain its hand-hewn character. I uncovered wormholes along the way that I'll try to feature prominently. Plane lovers (non-plane lovers, please forgive me for going on about them) will probably spot that #8 in the background, awaiting refurb & sitting with a Paul Hamler scraper in the cockpit . That #4 is a Sweetheart with a replacement handle. I fashioned the handle out of Wenge for weight & general coolness. It's one of my favorite planes & use it with the original blade.
> 
> ...


Looking good!
I love those shaves, and the powercord in the background is quite sexy too.
What tools? 
Did you use a card scraper to finish?
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Part 2- top & aprons*
> 
> OK, now I've planed the top flat (Stanley #7 , #6, and #5). Getting rid of the cup cost me quite a bit of wood & I'm approaching 3/4" thickness now. There are some deep gouges left by my #5 that my #4 can't quite reach but I'd like the project to retain its hand-hewn character. I uncovered wormholes along the way that I'll try to feature prominently. Plane lovers (non-plane lovers, please forgive me for going on about them) will probably spot that #8 in the background, awaiting refurb & sitting with a Paul Hamler scraper in the cockpit . That #4 is a Sweetheart with a replacement handle. I fashioned the handle out of Wenge for weight & general coolness. It's one of my favorite planes & use it with the original blade.
> 
> ...


Mads, the card scraper was used a bit on some stubborn areas but I'm saving the final finishing for right before assembly. So far, it's been hit with the #7, #6, #5, and #4. That powercord's connected to a radio streaming The Melvins, so no need to worry


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Part 2- top & aprons*
> 
> OK, now I've planed the top flat (Stanley #7 , #6, and #5). Getting rid of the cup cost me quite a bit of wood & I'm approaching 3/4" thickness now. There are some deep gouges left by my #5 that my #4 can't quite reach but I'd like the project to retain its hand-hewn character. I uncovered wormholes along the way that I'll try to feature prominently. Plane lovers (non-plane lovers, please forgive me for going on about them) will probably spot that #8 in the background, awaiting refurb & sitting with a Paul Hamler scraper in the cockpit . That #4 is a Sweetheart with a replacement handle. I fashioned the handle out of Wenge for weight & general coolness. It's one of my favorite planes & use it with the original blade.
> 
> ...


Merci.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Part 2- top & aprons*
> 
> OK, now I've planed the top flat (Stanley #7 , #6, and #5). Getting rid of the cup cost me quite a bit of wood & I'm approaching 3/4" thickness now. There are some deep gouges left by my #5 that my #4 can't quite reach but I'd like the project to retain its hand-hewn character. I uncovered wormholes along the way that I'll try to feature prominently. Plane lovers (non-plane lovers, please forgive me for going on about them) will probably spot that #8 in the background, awaiting refurb & sitting with a Paul Hamler scraper in the cockpit . That #4 is a Sweetheart with a replacement handle. I fashioned the handle out of Wenge for weight & general coolness. It's one of my favorite planes & use it with the original blade.
> 
> ...


Mads, check out the third part; many tools for you to critique!


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Bertha said:


> *Part 2- top & aprons*
> 
> OK, now I've planed the top flat (Stanley #7 , #6, and #5). Getting rid of the cup cost me quite a bit of wood & I'm approaching 3/4" thickness now. There are some deep gouges left by my #5 that my #4 can't quite reach but I'd like the project to retain its hand-hewn character. I uncovered wormholes along the way that I'll try to feature prominently. Plane lovers (non-plane lovers, please forgive me for going on about them) will probably spot that #8 in the background, awaiting refurb & sitting with a Paul Hamler scraper in the cockpit . That #4 is a Sweetheart with a replacement handle. I fashioned the handle out of Wenge for weight & general coolness. It's one of my favorite planes & use it with the original blade.
> 
> ...


Thats going to be a nice nightstand.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

*Part 3: Mortise & Tenon*

Time to mortise & tenon the aprons. I considered doing this by hand but I'll save that challenge for another day. These are cut with a tenon jig on a dedicated old tablesaw.










Here are the tenoned aprons off the jig. A little Stanley bullnose is investigating.



















I'll shoulder the tenons by hand:










I'm going to dovetail the upper drawer rail and tenon the lower drawer rail. When cutting half blinds that will be relatively hidden, I like to extend the handcut so that it remains visible. I also like to leave marking/mortising gauge line visible. It reminds me of the build process.










And hand chop a bunch of mortises:



















I'm fizzled out with all that chopping & will resume later this week. I need to finish chopping the mortises, fit the drawer guide & start working on the drawer. Thanks for looking!

After speaking with Dennis, I moved to a more substantial chisel to complete the mortises:










Ready to measure for the drawer support:










Now handplaning the lower drawer supports paired with the #7:


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Part 3: Mortise & Tenon*
> 
> Time to mortise & tenon the aprons. I considered doing this by hand but I'll save that challenge for another day. These are cut with a tenon jig on a dedicated old tablesaw.
> 
> ...


 half and half …eh

like your mallet handle , what brand is that mortiss cheisel

have a great day
Dennis


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

Bertha said:


> *Part 3: Mortise & Tenon*
> 
> Time to mortise & tenon the aprons. I considered doing this by hand but I'll save that challenge for another day. These are cut with a tenon jig on a dedicated old tablesaw.
> 
> ...


OMG…you have a dedicated tablesaw & Jig to do tenons. Looks like a worker too. Nice work.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Part 3: Mortise & Tenon*
> 
> Time to mortise & tenon the aprons. I considered doing this by hand but I'll save that challenge for another day. These are cut with a tenon jig on a dedicated old tablesaw.
> 
> ...


Hey Dennis, that mallet's a homemade job, head of ash; handle of figured maple, key of walnut. It's my main chisel hammer & with the square swelled handle, I can use it without looking. The 1/4" mortise chisel is a T.H. Witherby with a dark rosewood socket handle & leather shock absorber. I bought it because it was long; it may actually be a little too long!

Ratchet, that's an old $99 delta that I just couldn't throw away. It was worthless, but while trying to align it, I stumbled luckily upon dead perpendicular. I jigged it up with the tenon jig & just let it be. I'll build a proper tenon jig for my main saw one of these days.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Part 3: Mortise & Tenon*
> 
> Time to mortise & tenon the aprons. I considered doing this by hand but I'll save that challenge for another day. These are cut with a tenon jig on a dedicated old tablesaw.
> 
> ...


I also love the mallet.
Smile,
Mads


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Part 3: Mortise & Tenon*
> 
> Time to mortise & tenon the aprons. I considered doing this by hand but I'll save that challenge for another day. These are cut with a tenon jig on a dedicated old tablesaw.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mads, it's my favorite.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Part 3: Mortise & Tenon*
> 
> Time to mortise & tenon the aprons. I considered doing this by hand but I'll save that challenge for another day. These are cut with a tenon jig on a dedicated old tablesaw.
> 
> ...


Bertha I don´t know if it can be bought new its look like a new mortisser 
but I think its a sash mortiss cheisel you got there since it is so long
try to compare it to a Ray Isle mortisse that is more the size for furnituremaking 
does your mortisse has little slant side´s too like the Ray Isle as they all had in the old days
compare to now where most of them has 90 degree sides to the back

Dennis


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Part 3: Mortise & Tenon*
> 
> Time to mortise & tenon the aprons. I considered doing this by hand but I'll save that challenge for another day. These are cut with a tenon jig on a dedicated old tablesaw.
> 
> ...


No Dennis, this is definitely an old variety that I refurbed & fitted with a new socket. I think it would definitely qualify as a sash mortise chisel, given it's length. It definitely has a small relief on the sides which doesn't seem to aid much with chip clearance. It does seem to help the chisel from getting stuck, as Ray Iles claims. I can't comment on the original primary bevel, as the chisel was found in poor shape. Mine's ground to a 30 degree primary, which I'm told is too large. I usually choose my mortise/tenon width based upon what mortise chisel I'm anxious to use, rather than some formula based on the thickness of stock (1/3, etc.). For real bashing, I prefer the short, squat picksticker varieties but I was anxious to use this chisel! I've got two of Ray's chisels in 3/8 & 1/2. They are exceptional chisels indeed!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Part 3: Mortise & Tenon*
> 
> Time to mortise & tenon the aprons. I considered doing this by hand but I'll save that challenge for another day. These are cut with a tenon jig on a dedicated old tablesaw.
> 
> ...


you deffently have a point when kit comes to choose the cheisel for the job
when you think of the old guys 100-200 years back I don´t think they had more than one or two
mortiss cheisels and just used what they had in the toolbox 
compared to what people do to day when the they deside to buy a cheisel they want all
of them so they have a complete set of mortiss , pairing , sash or bench cheisel or what ever 
they deside to have of tool ´s 
I think we are spoiled today with the options of tool compared to back then

I still like your mortiss and the shape of the handle is one I think you nailed from what I have seen
an old galoot shipright use on a picture ( look at bob Smalsers blogs on http://www.wkfinetools.com/ 
a real galoot site )

take care
Dennis


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

*Step 4: working out the drawer supports*

I debated over this and many LJ's were quite supportive of my plight. Feeling guilty over machining my aprons, I decided to address the drawer guides with a saw & chisel. As it's a small drawer on a small piece, I figured the lower support might need the most support; the upper simply for tracking & anti-tip. I want to assemble the carcass front-back, then sides. I also wanted some allowance for shelf adjustment, so here goes:

I'm going to split the lower guide between a tenon into the lower rail, overlapping the front leg:










I'm going to notch the rear lower guide around the rear leg so that I can adjust the fit with a small pin/glue.

Here's the idea:










For the top guide, I'll tenon away from the dovetail in the top rail & directly into the rear apron.










Here's the idea:










Now all the pieces are relatively collected:










Once I mortise for the drawer guides, I'll assemble the case & fit it for the drawer. Wish me luck & thanks for looking!

OK, enough thinking; more chopping. I mortised the front lower rail to accommodate the overlapping lower drawer support. There's a hammer for Mads & a mortiser for Dennis!










It's a good fit!










Now I'll do the same for the top rail. There's a cheap blue-handle Irwin peeking out for credibility.










It looks like it's going to work


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 4: working out the drawer supports*
> 
> I debated over this and many LJ's were quite supportive of my plight. Feeling guilty over machining my aprons, I decided to address the drawer guides with a saw & chisel. As it's a small drawer on a small piece, I figured the lower support might need the most support; the upper simply for tracking & anti-tip. I want to assemble the carcass front-back, then sides. I also wanted some allowance for shelf adjustment, so here goes:
> 
> ...


okay you get the good luck from me …  ready …............... may you break a legg

take care
Dennis


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 4: working out the drawer supports*
> 
> I debated over this and many LJ's were quite supportive of my plight. Feeling guilty over machining my aprons, I decided to address the drawer guides with a saw & chisel. As it's a small drawer on a small piece, I figured the lower support might need the most support; the upper simply for tracking & anti-tip. I want to assemble the carcass front-back, then sides. I also wanted some allowance for shelf adjustment, so here goes:
> 
> ...


Thanks Dennis! Fitting wooden drawer guides is probably my least favorite aspect of woodworking. If I was a master of Sketchup and layout, I probably wouldn't dread it as much. I hope to do some chopping tonight. Perhaps I'll bring out some new chisels to share. Thanks for looking!


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

Bertha said:


> *Step 4: working out the drawer supports*
> 
> I debated over this and many LJ's were quite supportive of my plight. Feeling guilty over machining my aprons, I decided to address the drawer guides with a saw & chisel. As it's a small drawer on a small piece, I figured the lower support might need the most support; the upper simply for tracking & anti-tip. I want to assemble the carcass front-back, then sides. I also wanted some allowance for shelf adjustment, so here goes:
> 
> ...


I'm praying for a good fit first shot. Or at least an easy adjustment for you.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 4: working out the drawer supports*
> 
> I debated over this and many LJ's were quite supportive of my plight. Feeling guilty over machining my aprons, I decided to address the drawer guides with a saw & chisel. As it's a small drawer on a small piece, I figured the lower support might need the most support; the upper simply for tracking & anti-tip. I want to assemble the carcass front-back, then sides. I also wanted some allowance for shelf adjustment, so here goes:
> 
> ...


I'm praying the same thing, Ratchet. I appreciate the encouragement!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 4: working out the drawer supports*
> 
> I debated over this and many LJ's were quite supportive of my plight. Feeling guilty over machining my aprons, I decided to address the drawer guides with a saw & chisel. As it's a small drawer on a small piece, I figured the lower support might need the most support; the upper simply for tracking & anti-tip. I want to assemble the carcass front-back, then sides. I also wanted some allowance for shelf adjustment, so here goes:
> 
> ...


It will be perfect!
No doubt,
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Bertha said:


> *Step 4: working out the drawer supports*
> 
> I debated over this and many LJ's were quite supportive of my plight. Feeling guilty over machining my aprons, I decided to address the drawer guides with a saw & chisel. As it's a small drawer on a small piece, I figured the lower support might need the most support; the upper simply for tracking & anti-tip. I want to assemble the carcass front-back, then sides. I also wanted some allowance for shelf adjustment, so here goes:
> 
> ...


Looks good.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

*Step 5: assembly (pre-drawer)*

I completed all the drawer guide joints and turned my attention to assembly. I glued up the front of the case; the tenoned lower rail and dovetailed upper rail made it a snap to glue up (a curious woooden skew looks on):










I need some method to attach the top that allows for movement. I also need a good excuse to pull out the plow plane. I'll place a 3/8" dado in the side aprons using the Stanley #45. Sharp nickers & some paraffin make for some fun planing:



















Now for the glue-up! I gave a dab of glue to the lower "adjustable" drawer supports. If the drawer comes out perfectly, I'll pin the support where it is.










Next step: fitting the drawer. I'm going to have some fun with this & I think I'll use some hickory with a French bottom:

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/24794

Thanks for looking!


----------



## mattg (May 6, 2008)

Bertha said:


> *Step 5: assembly (pre-drawer)*
> 
> I completed all the drawer guide joints and turned my attention to assembly. I glued up the front of the case; the tenoned lower rail and dovetailed upper rail made it a snap to glue up (a curious woooden skew looks on):
> 
> ...


Awesome!! Look at those traditional tools!! I just commented on a shoulder plane that I bought a few years ago, and have never used. I used it to final fit the tenons of my bed project. What an awesome tool!!! Nice project!!


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 5: assembly (pre-drawer)*
> 
> I completed all the drawer guide joints and turned my attention to assembly. I glued up the front of the case; the tenoned lower rail and dovetailed upper rail made it a snap to glue up (a curious woooden skew looks on):
> 
> ...


Matt, once you fit a tenon with a shoulder plane, there's no going back!


----------



## dub560 (Jun 4, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Step 5: assembly (pre-drawer)*
> 
> I completed all the drawer guide joints and turned my attention to assembly. I glued up the front of the case; the tenoned lower rail and dovetailed upper rail made it a snap to glue up (a curious woooden skew looks on):
> 
> ...


looking very nice


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 5: assembly (pre-drawer)*
> 
> I completed all the drawer guide joints and turned my attention to assembly. I glued up the front of the case; the tenoned lower rail and dovetailed upper rail made it a snap to glue up (a curious woooden skew looks on):
> 
> ...


"once you fit a tenon with a shoulder plane, there's no going back! "

Words to live by !

Great post. Great progress. It must BE a pretty wonderful thing to do the bulk of/an entire project, using ONLY hand tools.

May or may not ever be a joy I know ;-)


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 5: assembly (pre-drawer)*
> 
> I completed all the drawer guide joints and turned my attention to assembly. I glued up the front of the case; the tenoned lower rail and dovetailed upper rail made it a snap to glue up (a curious woooden skew looks on):
> 
> ...


Niel, my shoulder is protesting, but it is indeed very satisfying. I'm not to the point where I can get incredibly crisp joints by hand (and own only a solitary Starrett device), but when building a project for a loved one, the tool marks impress me more than the precision. Thanks for looking!


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 5: assembly (pre-drawer)*
> 
> I completed all the drawer guide joints and turned my attention to assembly. I glued up the front of the case; the tenoned lower rail and dovetailed upper rail made it a snap to glue up (a curious woooden skew looks on):
> 
> ...


hey bertha didn´t you say that pplane was in the mail to me already and now you use it again …. LOL
nice to see you use it  thanks

take care
Dennis


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

*Step 6: Fitting the drawer for final assembly*

My fiance' selected a length of cherry for the drawer front/rear and some very wormy maple for the sides. I'll address the French bottom in maple as well.

Here's the case waiting to be fitted; very simple, as promised. a molder checks in:
(the top is yet to be attached, hence the skew  )










Here's the selection of very wormy cherry destined for the drawer sides:










Here it is rough fit with a 1/16" reveal:










Here are the assembled components (with the exception of the drawer bottom) awaiting final fit:










Now, to handplane to final dimensions, lay out the drawer dados, handcut the front/rear half-blinds, and design the french bottom. A paduak/cocobolo mallet inspects. Thanks for looking!


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 6: Fitting the drawer for final assembly*
> 
> My fiance' selected a length of cherry for the drawer front/rear and some very wormy maple for the sides. I'll address the French bottom in maple as well.
> 
> ...


Cool mallet !

I'm SO grateful when people do blogs OF the furniture they build. In truth … that might be where *I* learn the most.

The books hit the high points, but … the stuff I see in pictures … tells me the details about people's process … that truly propels me forward-how they fit up pieces, how they ensure accuracy and consistency (as opposed to precision), how they stay organized, how they make decisions regarding species, how they are not reluctant to change course, mid-stream, if that's what the project calls for.

That's a fine looking piece, and a great blog to watch


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 6: Fitting the drawer for final assembly*
> 
> My fiance' selected a length of cherry for the drawer front/rear and some very wormy maple for the sides. I'll address the French bottom in maple as well.
> 
> ...


Thanks Neil, that really hits home with me & I couldn't agree more. I have a hard time relating to a TV show for example (sorry Norm), where a guy passes a full sheet of plywood through a drum sander in his backyard shop. Or the guy in the magazine who builds a bowfront chest with hand-carved ball/claw feet on a two-page spread. On this site, you can find a guy struggling with a $10 ripsaw or a guy tweaking his homebrewed CNC. It makes the whole thing much more accessible to me, and for that reason, much more inspiring. Thanks for looking!


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Bertha said:


> *Step 6: Fitting the drawer for final assembly*
> 
> My fiance' selected a length of cherry for the drawer front/rear and some very wormy maple for the sides. I'll address the French bottom in maple as well.
> 
> ...


Thats going to be a nice nightstand once you finish.


----------



## Dandog (Oct 21, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Step 6: Fitting the drawer for final assembly*
> 
> My fiance' selected a length of cherry for the drawer front/rear and some very wormy maple for the sides. I'll address the French bottom in maple as well.
> 
> ...


that's going to be really nice.I agree with Neil that's a cool  Mallet.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 6: Fitting the drawer for final assembly*
> 
> My fiance' selected a length of cherry for the drawer front/rear and some very wormy maple for the sides. I'll address the French bottom in maple as well.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys! It's going to be very simple but I'll have a lot of pride in the construction. That little mallet is of Paduak & cocobolo with a dogwood key. I designed the top flat to get at plane irons behind a wooden wedge. Thanks for looking!


----------



## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

Bertha said:


> *Step 6: Fitting the drawer for final assembly*
> 
> My fiance' selected a length of cherry for the drawer front/rear and some very wormy maple for the sides. I'll address the French bottom in maple as well.
> 
> ...


Looking very nice! Beech got nice legs and good proportions. Love that wormy cherry.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 6: Fitting the drawer for final assembly*
> 
> My fiance' selected a length of cherry for the drawer front/rear and some very wormy maple for the sides. I'll address the French bottom in maple as well.
> 
> ...


Thanks Ratchet, I know that many people would hide the worms but I really like it in a piece like this. I guess we'll all find out how it turns out soon!


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 6: Fitting the drawer for final assembly*
> 
> My fiance' selected a length of cherry for the drawer front/rear and some very wormy maple for the sides. I'll address the French bottom in maple as well.
> 
> ...


great blog Bertha 
nice progress since last I had chance to look into you

take care
Dennis


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 6: Fitting the drawer for final assembly*
> 
> My fiance' selected a length of cherry for the drawer front/rear and some very wormy maple for the sides. I'll address the French bottom in maple as well.
> 
> ...


Thanks Dennis! I'm hoping to at least trim the drawer elements to final dimension tonight & perhaps lay out the half-blinds. If I can get the drawer assembled with a proper French bottom by Monday, I'll be happy. I'm going to turn the tenon for the drawer knob & let my fiance' finish it off on the lathe. I'm shooting for some wetsanded Danish Oil on the outside & some shellac/wax on the innards. I'm not entirely confident about my pseudo-adjustable rear/lower drawer guide, so we'll have to wait & see. This is the first piece of furniture I've made for my new log home in my new climate & I have no idea what type of movement to expect. I didn't test the wood for moisture content & don't stabilize it in my home. We'll all see soon, I suppose!


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 6: Fitting the drawer for final assembly*
> 
> My fiance' selected a length of cherry for the drawer front/rear and some very wormy maple for the sides. I'll address the French bottom in maple as well.
> 
> ...


when you said Loghome I had to check where you live but you hadn´t market it on the mapsection 
but its a beautyfull Loghouse you and your fiance have and from the picture its a wonderfull place 
for a fammely to grow 

take care
Dennis


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 6: Fitting the drawer for final assembly*
> 
> My fiance' selected a length of cherry for the drawer front/rear and some very wormy maple for the sides. I'll address the French bottom in maple as well.
> 
> ...


Thanks Dennis! We've been in WV for about 9 months now & really love it. It's a simple place with really nice people. Lots of nature to enjoy. I had my shop packed up for a full year prior to moving here. I'm so excited to be back out in the shop!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 6: Fitting the drawer for final assembly*
> 
> My fiance' selected a length of cherry for the drawer front/rear and some very wormy maple for the sides. I'll address the French bottom in maple as well.
> 
> ...


Those little beasts…
But acually I love the tracks after them.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

*Step 7: Fitting and constructing the drawer*

First, to fit the drawer front using the No. 5 (set thick) and the No. 7 (set thin). I left the top & bottom of the drawer 1/16" oversized, so I shouldn't have to take off much wood:










Here's what I mean by thick & thin:










I'm quite pleased with the fit. My fiance' specifically chose this drawer front for the grain pattern.










The rear is fit in the same manner and I'll then fit the sides:










Moving on to fitting the sides:










Now the sides will be cut to length after a test fit against the drawer back:










Here's a little detail of the current fit. The lower drawer support is free in the rear and will be pinned once I'm happy with the drawer motion.










Now to trim the pices to final dimension, mark out the dovetails and bottom, and cut! That's a bit of worm you see on the top of the rear apron. I promise it's a flat cut!


----------



## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

Bertha said:


> *Step 7: Fitting and constructing the drawer*
> 
> First, to fit the drawer front using the No. 5 (set thick) and the No. 7 (set thin). I left the top & bottom of the drawer 1/16" oversized, so I shouldn't have to take off much wood:
> 
> ...


I never get tired of seeing a well tuned plane give up whispy thin shavings. These planing skills are key to getting things to fit properly. Burning electrons can't get us this kind of accuracy. You show that well.
Thanks this is an excellent blog!


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 7: Fitting and constructing the drawer*
> 
> First, to fit the drawer front using the No. 5 (set thick) and the No. 7 (set thin). I left the top & bottom of the drawer 1/16" oversized, so I shouldn't have to take off much wood:
> 
> ...


Thanks Ratchet! I could have passed this through the planer and over the jointer, but then I couldn't drag out my blog over two weeks! I'll blast out "my" nightstand with powertools but being for the lady, this one needed that special attention. Seeing your components square up to adequate tolerances after using mostly hand tools is a very satisfying feeling for me.


----------



## JasonD (Jul 26, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Step 7: Fitting and constructing the drawer*
> 
> First, to fit the drawer front using the No. 5 (set thick) and the No. 7 (set thin). I left the top & bottom of the drawer 1/16" oversized, so I shouldn't have to take off much wood:
> 
> ...


A) The nightstand is coming along great.

B) That cherry is gorgeous!


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 7: Fitting and constructing the drawer*
> 
> First, to fit the drawer front using the No. 5 (set thick) and the No. 7 (set thin). I left the top & bottom of the drawer 1/16" oversized, so I shouldn't have to take off much wood:
> 
> ...


what a pleassure to see the pile of curled shaving being build up on the floor ;-))

and it was dam right of you to drag it out for over two weeks 
sadly you havn´t ask for advise´s so we could have confused you and helped you
to drag it out for a year or two before you are finished ….. you know we love to do that for you .. 

take care
Dennis


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 7: Fitting and constructing the drawer*
> 
> First, to fit the drawer front using the No. 5 (set thick) and the No. 7 (set thin). I left the top & bottom of the drawer 1/16" oversized, so I shouldn't have to take off much wood:
> 
> ...


Fine planes.
But a wonderful job you do!
I enjoy to follow.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## tdv (Dec 29, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 7: Fitting and constructing the drawer*
> 
> First, to fit the drawer front using the No. 5 (set thick) and the No. 7 (set thin). I left the top & bottom of the drawer 1/16" oversized, so I shouldn't have to take off much wood:
> 
> ...


Really good job & it's so good to escape from power tools from time to time I love the feel of a plane shaving wood hard to explain but it's almost spiritual, I'm sure you know what I mean, anyway thanks for the series
Best
Trevor (I knew Mads would like the planes)


----------



## therookie (Aug 29, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Step 7: Fitting and constructing the drawer*
> 
> First, to fit the drawer front using the No. 5 (set thick) and the No. 7 (set thin). I left the top & bottom of the drawer 1/16" oversized, so I shouldn't have to take off much wood:
> 
> ...


looking really good


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Step 7: Fitting and constructing the drawer*
> 
> First, to fit the drawer front using the No. 5 (set thick) and the No. 7 (set thin). I left the top & bottom of the drawer 1/16" oversized, so I shouldn't have to take off much wood:
> 
> ...


To me Al you will get a better product with the planes and you didn't have to set up any of those big ole machines. I love cherry. And I do like your project.
Hey are you going to break out the new bow saw and awe us with some dovetailed drawers?


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 7: Fitting and constructing the drawer*
> 
> First, to fit the drawer front using the No. 5 (set thick) and the No. 7 (set thin). I left the top & bottom of the drawer 1/16" oversized, so I shouldn't have to take off much wood:
> 
> ...


Superdave, I spent the day yesterday dovetailing & I'll post the photos once I find my blasted camera! I am however worried that the LJ's will disapprove of my efforts. For half-blinds, I like to oversaw the pinboard & leave horrible sawmarks and gauge marks everywhere. As promised, I'm working away on the French Bottom, which is taking longer than the dovetails!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Step 7: Fitting and constructing the drawer*
> 
> First, to fit the drawer front using the No. 5 (set thick) and the No. 7 (set thin). I left the top & bottom of the drawer 1/16" oversized, so I shouldn't have to take off much wood:
> 
> ...


Waiting with anticipation. I like the oversawn marks by the way. Its ole school.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

*Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*

I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/24794

Mine will be a bit of a Modified French Bottom, as I'm not going to raise a significant panel on the drawer bottom. As promised, this project is fit-as-you-go, so I need to take some measurements and make some markings. Many will disapprove of my dovetails, as I prefer them coarse with very visible saw marks/marking gauge marks. These dovetails will be 1:6.














































Now to turn my attention to the French Bottom! I want to first mill the sides within which the drawer bottom will float.










And cut them to fit within the drawer:










Now I'll turn my attention to the dados. For this, I'll use the trusty Stanley #50 because it's fence is much less obtrusive compared to the #45.



















Here's how it will ultimately fit, however I'll slightly tenon the drawer bottom so the fit isn't this snug. I want there to be a drop-off between the bottom and the sides. Plus, for those who think I should have raised paneled my aprons, I promise that I know how to make them!!



















Now I'll start working on glueing up the drawer bottom. I'll cut the components oversized, joint the edges, and glue up the panel.



















Now, all that's left is to fit the drawer bottom & rabbet the front/rear aprons; install the drawer and the top buttons to keep the top on. Thanks for looking!

OK, here's the new drawer bottom & I'm glad I made the effort. I like this maple one much better. The Sweetheart scraper puts the final touches on the surface that will receive amber shellac.










I cut the drawer bottom to size on the RAS in honor of Neil (who I equate with the RAS and who's responsible for my purchase, Craftsman that it is (sigh)).










For rebates, the Stanley #78 is my favorite plane. I'm going to execute a 3/8" rabbet to insert into the receiver on the French Bottom. This will give me 1/8" of play.










Oh yeah, the fit is what I'm looking for & the drawer bottom will be flush with the French Bottom receivers (what do you call these things anyway!):










This is how the drawer bottom will look:










Now I'll trim the French Bottom receivers for a perfect fit:










I dado'd the drawer front 1/4" to receive the bottom. Look, I may an idiot, but I'm no fool. I cut the stopped dado on the router table & trimmed with a chisel & router plane. I included the router bit in the photo so I'd have no choice but to be honest! 










Now, I'll notch the rear drawer panel so that the bottom can be easily removed for cleaning:










Here's how the drawer parts will come together:










Now for the glue-up, a complicated one (French bottom & dovetails simultaneously):










Now, if I might take the opportunity to share. For those who can't or won't purchase a $4000 cabinet saw with atomic clock, pneumatic self leveling, and integrated defibrillator, I can rip a 1/32" strip for feet with my $200 vintage JET contractor saw (with the motor hanging out of the back) with it's original fence. I'd hate for someone to miss out on all this joy because they think they can't afford to get into it.









I took the opportunity to coat the drawer botton with t 50:50 amber shellac while the drawer is drying:










OK, the drawer is off the clamps. I'm pretty pleased with the results & I think the French Bottom (or modified, in my case, since it's sans the raising) is in my future:










Here's the bottom for an idea of how it all comes together:










So here's where we are now:










Now there's only a few things left to do: 1) fix the rear drawer guides & stop block with pins/glue, 2) mount some shallow drawer guides on top of the main drawer guides, 3) button the top to the aprons, and 4) Finish!

For finish, I'm thinking amber shellac & wax for the innards. I'm thinking tinted Danish oil wetsanded on the outside. I like the glassy finish of wetsanded oils & I need this piece many shades darker to match my existing furniture. In truth, I'm more of a walnut guy but when a friend gives you wood, you cut the wood. I'm open to any and all suggestions about finishing. Thanks for looking!


----------



## therookie (Aug 29, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*
> 
> I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:
> 
> ...


looking good cant wait till it is finished


----------



## stockmaker (Feb 23, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*
> 
> I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:
> 
> ...


nice tight work, keep up the pics.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*
> 
> I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:
> 
> ...


well now you have confused me … not that it take much to do so… LOL
but why make a glue up before you sharpen the drawknife on the clamp .. ?. ?. ?

take care
Dennis


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*
> 
> I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:
> 
> ...


Ha! Dennis, you made me spit out my coffee! I've already apologized for shamelessly including pics of my favorite hand tools! That drawknife is a James Swan & I haven't had the nerve yet to sharpen it.

But I do have a change of plans to report. I'm not happy with the bottom glue-up from yesterday and have re-started it (my right, right?  ) I milled a piece of maple down to 5/8" thickness & I'm going to rabbet the top so that it will meet flush with the French Bottom sides. Although I prefer the look of the step-down, my fiance' prefers a dead flat bottom. It's glued up right now so I'll post pics later!


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*
> 
> I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:
> 
> ...


don´t mess with the coffee .. shame on you 

I tend to agree with your fiancé a bottom has to bee flat and beside from the step down 
is missing you will still have the look of a frence bottom .. so I will say its a fair compromis 
to lieve with 
I wuold just have med two growes in the side of the drawer and had the bottom slide
in from the back and fastned it with a screw ….. I´m so laazy I know that .. LOL

Dennis


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*
> 
> I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:
> 
> ...


Okay. I'm starting NOT to like you.

You're patient.
You're methodical.
You don't move without considering options.
You seem to plan your work and work your plan.
You improvise where improvisation is indicated.

AND … you seem to have very cool tools.

I want my money back.



Looking great ! Love the Dove (tails). Proportion is an entirely personal thing-at least until your improvisation begins to weaken the mechanical strength of a joint-so … I love it. Love everything about it.

But that's me.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*
> 
> I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:
> 
> ...


Great work Al. Careful I once had a blog that made Dennis laugh and he pored his coffee into his keyboard. Would you consider loaning the vintage Stanley for a test run at my shop. jk That is on lovely looking plane.
I have to ask are you using tightbond III because of the open time and or the strength? I use III on most of my tails because of the open time.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*
> 
> I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:
> 
> ...


OOh yah and the keybord still hang to dry just beside the big Pc jsu as a warning to me 
it has been a very expencive year in keybords sofare ….. but I think I have learn only
to sip when I read comments on L J….. well I´m sure you guy´s will do everything to 
catch me unprepared from now on …. :-( ..... LOL

take care
Dennis


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*
> 
> I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:
> 
> ...


I'll buy keyboards by the dozen if I ruin them over woodworking comments! To Neil, don't hate me for my woodworking; there are plenty of other valid reasons to hate me. To wit, I'm pretty environmental unconscious and drive a truck that gets sub 10mpg; I'm also generally insensitive and pick through a nut mix, leaving the undesirables for my fiance'. See, plenty to hate outside of this hobby!


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*
> 
> I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:
> 
> ...


OK, updates posted above.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*
> 
> I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:
> 
> ...


Luckily, *Al*, it isn't an either/or proposition.

I can hate you for all of that, AND for your woodworking 

Cherry picking the trail mix … IS pretty uncool ;-)


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*
> 
> I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:
> 
> ...


Neil, it is most definitely uncool but my finace' engages in it as well. I can't remember the last time I've enjoyed one of those little pumpernickle crisps from a bag of Gardetto's. Strangely, the open bags never contain them.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*
> 
> I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:
> 
> ...


And neither does OUR trail mix EVER contain M&M's.

... least … that's my story, and I AM sticking with it !

I consider it an exercise in both dexterity AND hand-eye coordination, so … it's about health


----------



## SouthpawCA (Jul 19, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*
> 
> I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:
> 
> ...


OK … I love the french bottom. I did one around all 3 sides just for the fun of it out of contrasting wood. Another thing you could have done to get an almost flat bottom is to chamfer the french bottom pieces to almost meet the insert. However, the boss knows what she wants. I love that Stanley #50 I need to get me something like that.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step 8: drawer and French Bottom assembly*
> 
> I'm getting started on the dovetailed & French Bottom'd drawer. For a discussion of the French Bottom, see:
> 
> ...


thank´s for the updated picture´s Bertha 

Dennis


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

*Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*

Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:










Tack it in place with glue & brads (a consequence of waiting to the end for a final fit means I have to resort to more modern tools).










Then I'll trim it flush to the lower apron with a chisel:










Now I'll glue-up some drawer guides so the drawer tracks the way I like. I would have liked to tack them in but I can't get a nailer in there!










Here's a little rear detail for those playing along at home! I realize that it's a bit of an unconventional joint but as I warned from the very beginning, I wanted to "design as I go" with minimal plans.










Now I'll trim some stop blocks to perfection & glue/tack them in place for the desired drawer depth.










Now I'll turn my attention to the buttons that secure the top. I haven't given myself much room between the upper drawer guide & the apron, so it'll take a little doing. First, I'll lay them out:










Then I'll make the rebate (Stanley #78) that allows the button to insert into the apron dado:










Then I'll drill the holes with my favorite brace:










Here are the little beasts (as Mads likes to call worms):










Here they are in their new home. After a long conversation about stripping screws (http://lumberjocks.com/topics/25308), I took no chances & used coarse square-drive waxed Kregs:










So here's where we are! It's been an enjoyable journey. What's left now is some sanding and some finishing (my least favorite part). I'm pleased with the dimensions but would have prefered slightly tapered legs. But this is not for me! I like the surface where it is (handplaned) but will sand it smooth. Thanks for looking!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


looking very good Bertha 
Doooooon´t sand it bunishe it with schavings from the project before aplying finishes …
well just a thought

take care 
Dennis


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


Thank you Dennis! This is the support I need! I'll make the pitch when I get home. I'm still considering finishes. The other furniture is black walnut but as you know, this wood was a gift and you don't look gift wood in the grain. I applied some walnut tinted danish oil to a scrap last night & wasn't entirely pleased. I don't want to resort to dyes but I suppose I might. If it were up to me, it'd be tung & wax after a burnishing.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


Just thinking back now:



















This is a great hobby we have!


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## dub560 (Jun 4, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


looking real good-the reveal is on point too


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


Turned out nicely. Have you considered Poatassium Dichromate to prematurely age/oxidize it? Seriously I'm not looking to open any "haradous" can of worms here.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


Bertha don´t tease me so much ….. LOL
OOH when the day ... OOh when the day come …. for me to launch the first
big project out of the shop ….. well it wuold proppebly take me years … with all
the tools and gadgets Mads present to us … undeer the catagory … need to make … LOL

Dennis


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


Thanks all! 
To dub, thank you much. I started off with a tighter reveal but and overnight temperature/humidity change made me shave back a little. If it binds, I'll shave a bit more. If it widens up, I'll just have a sloppy reveal!

To ratchet, I am most certainly considering the K Dichrom but I don't have a supplier available to me (that I know of), I'm pathologically impatient, and I've got limited time away from work. I'm most definitely interested and if I can dig some up, I plan to.

Oh Dennis, I don't mean to tease and we suffer from the same dilemma. Mads alone has provided me with about a dozen "must do now", "can't live without one" projects. And there are thousands of others from other LJs! I try not to rush things & hand tools slow me down. I still get impatient at this point, though!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


well we can give you an advice there … 

the next bigger project you only use one fine 52teeth per inch saw a tiny skalpel
and sanpaper grit 600 to make it with

then you wont have any problem in the future being impatient …...... we will send you the bill later 
based on the Ph.d. list….... thank you for using us 

take care
the Danish Viking Team


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


The check will forever be in the mail! After a few mandatory projects around the house, my next project needs to be a proper workbench. I hadn't the room for a proper French one in my old shop. You're now aware of my handtool fetish, so this bench will be of small footprint but monstrous proportions. I want to be able to use two scrub planes on unfinished stock simultaneously!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


you better make a new with two offset blades in that wiil stress you as much as using two scrubs …. LOL

have you seen one of the last benches that one with purplehart edge around 
I like the way he has combien´d three different types of benches into one

Dennis


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


Dennis, yes I definitely commented on that one. I'm planning on a massive bench with flush legs, a hook, a deadman, a shoulder, and a wagon. I really like the idea of placing a very dense, hard wood around the edging. Unfortunately, the bench of my dreams is going to be VERY expensive & I've yet to locate a good local supplier. Oh well, it gives me more time to plan. This site is better than a dozen books on bench design.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


yep it is 
but I still wuold like to read the two bench books of Swartz´s but after hes rude behavier 
I proppebly wont ….. well he forgot he need to lieve and I still have to learn so maybee in a 
ten fifteen years time from now …..maybee 
but I do have 
The Workbench
A Complete Guide to Creating Your Perfect Bench

Author 
Lon Schleining

from Tauton Press

and that is not a bad book to have as well as there toolbox book …...LOL
if you havn´t read them I will advice you to do it ….. great idea and picture books …. 

take care
Dennis


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


Travel has ended.
You did a wonderful job, I love your dedication to stay on the track.
Thank you for sharing this with us.
Dennis, I'm a child, a big child, thats it! All you need is love and a little tools, the rest is just me living a old dream.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


Hey Al NICE table! I love cherry. Summer is coming and if you are scrubin in the shop better get a big fan
Set it in the sun for a month and let her turn red. Cant wait to set the start of what sounds like a fine bench.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


Ha Cessna! Keeping me honest! If I put a router bit or a pneumatic line in my photo, I can never go back & make false claims! Thanks for looking.


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## therookie (Aug 29, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


man oh man did you do good. great job bertha


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


Thanks so much, Rookie and all my friends above. Like Mads alludes, the journey is over and I'll soon have a new friend in my home. I lost the sanding battle, but I retained some deep scrub marks, tearout, marking lines, and coarse dovetails. I also installed my first pseudo-proper French bottom, something that would have escaped me were it not for my friends at LJ. I'll make it's matching cousin out of hickory next month using ALL the powertools in my shop. Balance!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


It just occurred to me, looking back over the photos above, that posing a plane is no better than posing shirtless by your new Camaro! It's accepted cheesiness


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Bertha said:


> *Step #9: Final assembly-stop, guide, and button*
> 
> Time for final assembly. My fiance' will turn a knob and install it as a celebration when the project is complete. First, I need to mount the free lower drawer supports over a spacer. I made the drawer supports so I could control the levelness of the drawer and the reveal once all the parts were together. First I cut the spacer oversized & will trim it later:
> 
> ...


Looks good, Al.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

*Finishing (Boring)*

I resisted the urge to K+dichrome or tint this project (with approval from the fiance'). I'm not proud of the sanding but what's done is done. I'm going to employ a basic LJ tenet of 1) BLO, 2) Shellac 1# seal, 3) Poly. I'm at the BLO part & I'm pleased so far. I'm aware that some hate to show end-grain forward but I'm in a different camp. I'll use a darker knob to tie in to the dark red end-grain. I left the deeper scrub plane marks and tearout on the top. I don't want to forget that I didn't pass this over and under planers and jointers! The drawer is 2# amber shellac & a bit more tinted than I wanted. It's rustic, I can live with it.

BLO flood:



















Drying a bit:


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Finishing (Boring)*
> 
> I resisted the urge to K+dichrome or tint this project (with approval from the fiance'). I'm not proud of the sanding but what's done is done. I'm going to employ a basic LJ tenet of 1) BLO, 2) Shellac 1# seal, 3) Poly. I'm at the BLO part & I'm pleased so far. I'm aware that some hate to show end-grain forward but I'm in a different camp. I'll use a darker knob to tie in to the dark red end-grain. I left the deeper scrub plane marks and tearout on the top. I don't want to forget that I didn't pass this over and under planers and jointers! The drawer is 2# amber shellac & a bit more tinted than I wanted. It's rustic, I can live with it.
> 
> ...


Nice nightstand Al. This side of the pond we call it a bedside cabinet. Thanks for the blog. I missed it before, so I've just looked over the previous entries to catch up. Can't wait for your bench build. A Roubo is definitely in my future, although not this year. I'm still struggling with a beat up B&D workmate and I long for day when I can toss it in a skip.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Finishing (Boring)*
> 
> I resisted the urge to K+dichrome or tint this project (with approval from the fiance'). I'm not proud of the sanding but what's done is done. I'm going to employ a basic LJ tenet of 1) BLO, 2) Shellac 1# seal, 3) Poly. I'm at the BLO part & I'm pleased so far. I'm aware that some hate to show end-grain forward but I'm in a different camp. I'll use a darker knob to tie in to the dark red end-grain. I left the deeper scrub plane marks and tearout on the top. I don't want to forget that I didn't pass this over and under planers and jointers! The drawer is 2# amber shellac & a bit more tinted than I wanted. It's rustic, I can live with it.
> 
> ...


Ha! Brit, I've toiled with the workmate myself! I certainly enjoyed tossing mine. Thanks for the kind comments & I hope to wrap up my bedside cabinet this weekend. Once the bench assembly is underway, I'll make sure to share all my bumps and bruises.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Finishing (Boring)*
> 
> I resisted the urge to K+dichrome or tint this project (with approval from the fiance'). I'm not proud of the sanding but what's done is done. I'm going to employ a basic LJ tenet of 1) BLO, 2) Shellac 1# seal, 3) Poly. I'm at the BLO part & I'm pleased so far. I'm aware that some hate to show end-grain forward but I'm in a different camp. I'll use a darker knob to tie in to the dark red end-grain. I left the deeper scrub plane marks and tearout on the top. I don't want to forget that I didn't pass this over and under planers and jointers! The drawer is 2# amber shellac & a bit more tinted than I wanted. It's rustic, I can live with it.
> 
> ...


well time to ask does you suck or blow 
if you do the first shuoldn´t have been above the table instead

Dennis


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

*Step #11: Turning knob and moving into house!*

Onto the celebration! The case lacks only wax. Flood BLO, #1 Shellac sealer, Poly x 3. Turning a knob out of rosewood on the lathe. Spindle work, no chucks here! (lazy)










Freehand tapping for the screw; the pillot was done on the drill press (honesty).










The knob. Notice my turpentine/beeswax jar customized by my fiance', complete with little bees buzzing about.










Installed! It's an unusual choice of wood but I love it.










Steakums (dog) approves of it in his nook. Michaelbear (bear) and Yaeger (cat) appear to approve, as well.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Step #11: Turning knob and moving into house!*
> 
> Onto the celebration! The case lacks only wax. Flood BLO, #1 Shellac sealer, Poly x 3. Turning a knob out of rosewood on the lathe. Spindle work, no chucks here! (lazy)
> 
> ...


looks very good. nice project


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step #11: Turning knob and moving into house!*
> 
> Onto the celebration! The case lacks only wax. Flood BLO, #1 Shellac sealer, Poly x 3. Turning a knob out of rosewood on the lathe. Spindle work, no chucks here! (lazy)
> 
> ...


now there you got lucky …. it fits right in the place beside the bed …....LOL

congrat´s Bertha and thank´s for the blogs about the build it has been a pleassure to follow

take care
Dennis


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Bertha said:


> *Step #11: Turning knob and moving into house!*
> 
> Onto the celebration! The case lacks only wax. Flood BLO, #1 Shellac sealer, Poly x 3. Turning a knob out of rosewood on the lathe. Spindle work, no chucks here! (lazy)
> 
> ...


Roger, thank you much!
Dennis, imagine that! Fits perfectly. I appreciate you joining me on this ride.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Bertha said:


> *Step #11: Turning knob and moving into house!*
> 
> Onto the celebration! The case lacks only wax. Flood BLO, #1 Shellac sealer, Poly x 3. Turning a knob out of rosewood on the lathe. Spindle work, no chucks here! (lazy)
> 
> ...


Congrats, thats a nice nightstand.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Bertha said:


> *Step #11: Turning knob and moving into house!*
> 
> Onto the celebration! The case lacks only wax. Flood BLO, #1 Shellac sealer, Poly x 3. Turning a knob out of rosewood on the lathe. Spindle work, no chucks here! (lazy)
> 
> ...


Good job Bertha


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## therookie (Aug 29, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Step #11: Turning knob and moving into house!*
> 
> Onto the celebration! The case lacks only wax. Flood BLO, #1 Shellac sealer, Poly x 3. Turning a knob out of rosewood on the lathe. Spindle work, no chucks here! (lazy)
> 
> ...


Bertha grat job and keep em coming


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

Bertha said:


> *Step #11: Turning knob and moving into house!*
> 
> Onto the celebration! The case lacks only wax. Flood BLO, #1 Shellac sealer, Poly x 3. Turning a knob out of rosewood on the lathe. Spindle work, no chucks here! (lazy)
> 
> ...


Well done. Looks to fit the space nicely.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Bertha said:


> *Step #11: Turning knob and moving into house!*
> 
> Onto the celebration! The case lacks only wax. Flood BLO, #1 Shellac sealer, Poly x 3. Turning a knob out of rosewood on the lathe. Spindle work, no chucks here! (lazy)
> 
> ...


Goodnight and thank you Bertha,
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Bertha said:


> *Step #11: Turning knob and moving into house!*
> 
> Onto the celebration! The case lacks only wax. Flood BLO, #1 Shellac sealer, Poly x 3. Turning a knob out of rosewood on the lathe. Spindle work, no chucks here! (lazy)
> 
> ...


Nice job Al. Looks really great in its final location.


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