# Salad bowl finish not for cutting boards?



## NateX (Mar 13, 2010)

I know, I know, salad bowl finish again? I just (about an hour ago) put a coat of salad bowl finish on an end grain cutting board i made. I went to read what the fine folks at General Finishes had to say about maintenance of their product and found this: "For actively used butcher block counter tops that are used for chopping and cutting, only use Butcher Block Oil." Full page, 3rd one down.

I did a search and found more than a few other people who also had used GF salad bowl finish for cutting boards. Is this a recent change? The Wood Whisperer was more than enthusiastic about the merits of said varnish, could this be a change due to the sudden surge in use of the product on working boards?

What say ye? Is it safe? Will it just get thrashed by knives? Will it bubble and chip? Will it give me face cancer if i dice jalapenos on it?

This is supposed to be a gift for someone with small children, what do you think?


----------



## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

I've used salad bowl finish on every cutting board I have ever made (about a dozen). To the best of my knowledge, no one has ever suffered any harmful effects from using the cutting board.

However, I also understand that most, if not all, of my cutting boards were used for display - not for actually functioning as a cutting board. The phrase I often hear is "It's too pretty to use".


----------



## PetVet (Nov 7, 2008)

I have used it on all my cutting boards too, which I then topped with bees wax/mineral oil. I will let you know if my relatives start dieing off…


----------



## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

all is good my friend , actually salad bowl finish is a great choice, it has some urethane, and driers ( not lead), it will protect well, and serve well, it thin enough to be absorbed into the wood fibers.. cut them perrper , let it dry well about a week

dont need to hear about the hair… he he he

just how it is .. check it out http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/category_player.php?type=1&cat=3&video=cuttingboard.flv


----------



## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

Greetings Nate….... +1 for the above remarks on the finish….. No worries, mate. It is what it is, but when in doubt, which there shouldn't be…... use good 'ole American made (?)............... mineral oil…can't beat it…


----------



## JimmyNate (Mar 24, 2009)

It depends on how paranoid you want to be. I'm paranoid. I don't personally even want non-lead metallic driers on my cutting board. Also, I wouldn't want a film finish because the cuts on the film can hold bacteria much the same as a plastic cutting board would.

Mineral oil is the way to go for paranoid caution and also for easier maintenance and cleanliness. I refresh it with another coat every couple of months.


----------



## reggiek (Jun 12, 2009)

i would chime in that the salad bowl finish probably does not penetrate as deep as an oil finish. I have always rubbed my cutting boards with oil….I have used the salad bowl finish on my turned food containers…and that finish is pretty durable considering the scraping of knives, forks and salad implements….So I would not see a problem with it on a cutting board…..I don't use it there as I learned to make cutting boards with my grandfather, and there was no such finish around at that time and like mentioned above…it is really easy to refresh the finish with an additional rub.


----------



## jockmike2 (Oct 10, 2006)

Simple bleach and a mineral oil rub is my code and I'll take it to the grave, before long I might add. LOL.. BTW I've got to post my first attempt at a Lazy Larry cutting board. I'm surprised my turning students haven't ratted me out. They're such good guys!!!


----------



## marcb (May 5, 2008)

*I wouldn't want a film finish because the cuts on the film can hold bacteria much the same as a plastic cutting board would.*

What he said. No film finishes on cutting boards. Anyone who tells you different should be ignored.


----------



## joey (Sep 17, 2007)

I only use mineral oil or walnut oil to finish my working cutting boards it works great, its cheap, and it can cause no harm. the only draw back is you have to reapply it every few months, but that enhance the finish over time and protects the wood.

Joey


----------



## WoodArtbyJR (Apr 13, 2010)

I used to use (on my cutting boards) food grade mineral oil but I found and tried Mahoney's bowl oil which is heat treated walnut oil. I prefer Mahoney's over the mineral oil because I feel it lasts longer between applications. Like stated above, you have to reapply an oil ever so ofter because it either soaks in, evaporates or just dissipates. It is stated on the bottle (Mahoney's) that the finish will harden when exposed to UVs. I also use this oil on my cribbage boards and peppermills to help magnify the beauty of the grain, then I buff and polish with the one way system to really get the grain to pop. I have also heard of folks using veg. oil but I also read that veg oil can turn rancid when used like this. So I didn't take the chance. Mahoney's is a little more expensive then your run of the mill mineral oil but I like the results better so I spend the money. I must admit though, when I sell a cutting board I advise the new owner to use mineral oil (easier for them to find and buy).


----------



## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

mineral oil… I agree on one point… it's cheap… 
salad bowl ,arm r seal, waterlox, ARE oils… absorbed.. unless multiple coats are applied no film is afforded.. how it works…

This is one of those topics that there are alot of opinions, as long as it works for you , all is good

its one of those "agree to disagree things"


----------



## bill1352 (Nov 8, 2009)

I have a friend that has been turning and selling wooden spoons and such at craft shows for 19 years. He would never use anything except mineral oil. He even puts it on the decorative bowls he sells.


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

the reason why they say that is because they don't want to be liable incase someone doesn't let it cure long enough. the salad bowl finish is just a thinned oil so it will soak in the end grain and not make a film and it has a faster cure time. that's about it. on a salad bowl you don't see heavy duty use that often but on a chopping block if you apply too many coats and get a film and don't allow it to cure then there could be problems. if you apply maybe two coats and then give it a week or two to cure you should be all set.


----------



## marcb (May 5, 2008)

Salad Bowl Finish has Urethane resin and other resins in it. It is a film finish.


----------



## GuyK (Mar 26, 2007)

I totally agree with Jim about Mahoneys. I have used it for years on cutting boards and it is a fantastic product. It holds up great, and when most of my customers who have purchased them, tell me they need theirs redone they want me to do it, with the same finish. They have all comented on how well it holds up.


----------



## WoodArtbyJR (Apr 13, 2010)

Now here is something to think about. I corrosponded with Dust56 and asked him what he used and it turns out that he uses mineral oil. The reason being, he is allergic to nuts…....and Mahoneys is WALNUT OIL…........I have a nut allergy as well but only to raw almonds and raw filberts (I love Hazel nuts) and working with Mahoneys I have never gotten a reaction. Well, from now on I am going to have to forewarn my customers that the boards have been treated with a nut oil and if they have a nut allergy they might want to pass on my boards of preorder one that I use mineral oil. DUH, I (of all people) should have thought of this but it clearly went over my head. I just Googled Salad Bowl Finish and it is a brand name. It contains FDA regulated ingredients and may be used in contact with food when applied per the container instructions, i.e. cured for 72 hrs. Per the query, this product is "not intended for cutting boards or cutting blocks". Since it contains urethane and resins it is a topical and can chip if cut with knife and flakes can get into your food. Mineral oil and Mahoneys Utility Finish are both all natural oils and food grade safe. No cure needed, just let-r-soak-in. When we all were talking about Salad Bowl Finish™ and Mahoneys™ we were comparing apples to oranges because they are two totally different products with different ingredients and finish results (and application requirements). Mahoneys Utility Finish is recommended for bowls, cutting boards and cutting blocks and mineral oil would be as well. A choice between the two is a personal choice. But refrain from using Salad Bowl Finish™ on cutting boards and blocks.


----------



## kko (Sep 19, 2010)

Thanks for all of your useful advice here! I have been researching what to protect the cutting board my hubby made for me) with. I was ready to use the mineral oil/bees wax combo when i came to realize that mineral oil is not natural (and should not be labled so) it is a petrochemical product. So i am onto the idea of walnut oil. but I inted to research if farther before I make a decision. Any additional advice will be greatly appreciated!


----------



## WoodArtbyJR (Apr 13, 2010)

If you haven't noticed before from my entries, I like to stir the pot or at least suggest you look at something from a different angle. Here is an excert from an article that might help you to make an informed decision on which oil to use on your boards.

"How To Season Cutting Boards
Cutting Board Oils - Bucher Block Oils

Before using a new butcher block, season it to prevent staining and absorption of food odors and bacteria. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth on both new and older boards. The wood surface needs an oil that can be repeatedly applied to fill the wood pores and repel food particles, liquids, and oils. Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish a cutting surface, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor.
USP-grade mineral oil is a popular choice as it is the cheapest pure food-grade oil you can buy (do not use vegetable or olive oils because they can turn rancid). Mineral oil remains safe throughout its life. There are various oils available for cutting boards and butcher blocks. Some are called "Butcher Block Finishes" or "Mystery Oil." Save some money by visiting the local hardware or drug store and purchasing Mineral Oil. (not mineral spirits - this is paint thinner).
When you see the words "food safe finish" in a description of a wood product, this generally means mineral oil has been used. Simply wipe mineral oil on the surface of your board and watch it soak in. When the wood won't take any more oil, you can wipe off the excess with a clean dry cloth. Don't worry about applying too much oil - more is better.
Beeswax is often added to mineral oil and walnut oil to give a tougher finish. The wax of bees has been used for centuries for waterproofing and sealing materials from baskets to cloth and for preserving foods and other perishable materials, including wood. It will make wood water-resistant (though not water-proof) and will help protect the wood surface from use and wear. It will also give a wood surface a nice smooth feel to the touch and leave a gentle, sweet fragrance. Simply shave about 1/2 teaspoon beeswax into a microwave safe dish with a cupful of mineral oil; microwave on high for about 45 seconds. Apple to the cutting board or butcher block while still warm. Save or dispose of the remainder of the oil.
Beeswax Top Coat - A beeswax top coat is an optional addition to the re-finishing process, but is well worth the time. The beeswax sits on the surface of the wood in contrast to the oil that soaks into the wood. As a result the beeswax fills in pores and gaps that thin oil can't bridge. This helps to keep moisture, bacteria, and other contaminants from getting into the wood surface. To apply the finish, simply wipe it on with a clean cloth. The beeswax is a soft paste that has a similar consistency to that of a shoe polish. Excess finish can be easily buffed off with the cloth. Once the finish has had some time to dry it can be buffed to a shine. 
Walnut or Almond Oil. These are all-natural oils and are one of the few oils that do not turn rancid as easily as other oils. However, all vegetable oils will go rancid eventually. I, personally, don't recommend using these oils. These oils are available in grocery stores and some mail order woodworking supply stores. NOTE: If anyone in your family has an allergy to nuts or nut products, do not use these oils.
Coconut Oil. I recently did some research and experimentation and found out that food-grade coconut oil/butter also works great. I also use it for seasoning my Cast-Iron Pots & Pans. Coconut oil is one of the most stable oils and is highly resistant to rancidity. It is stable because of its high proportion of saturated fats. Coconut oil has a long shelf life of two or more years, and does not have to be refrigerated. Coconut oil should be stored out of direct sunlight, however. If you live in a hot climate, I recommend storing unused coconut oil in the refrigerator.
Before applying oil to butcher block, warm the oil slightly. Apply oil with a soft cloth, in the direction of the grain, allowing the oil to soak in between each of the four or five coats required for the initial seasoning. After each treatment, wait about four to six hours and wipe off oil that did not soak into the wood (oxidation or hardening of the oil will take approximately 6 hours). Re-oil the butcher block monthly or as often as needed."

The above was taken from the following link. http://whatscookingamerica.net/CuttingBoards/AllAbout.htm

I couldn't find the autors name but maybe you can. After reading your entry (kko) it got me to thinking about mixing beeswax with the walnut oil I use. Well, according to this author it can be done. At a recent show I did a surprise cloud burst happened and some of my walnut oil sealed boards got sprinkled with rail drops. The results were less then favorable. The rain drops left marks on the boards that just reapplying another coat of walnut oil wouldn't fix. I had to re-sand and re-apply the oil. NOT HAPPY with the added work. My thoughts now are what is my board going to look like if the new owner splashes water on the board and doesn't wipe it off right away. The new board owner WILL NOT BE HAPPY EITHER….. So, I think I will try either the walnut oil (very expensive) and beeswax combo or the mineral oil (very enexpensive) and beeswax combo to seal future boards. Anyone else experience this problem?

kko, good luck in making a decision on which to use.


----------



## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

Jim,

I'm not sure how thoroughly you soaked the board with walnut oil? Regardless, when using mineral or walnut oil on a board alone, a lot of people will soak the board over an extended period of time. By that, I mean they'll soak it multiple times on the first day, maybe once an hour, then gradually ween the board of the oil treatment over the course of a week. Many people do not spend that much time doing this.

I'd think at minimum, you'll want to at least give it several coats of walnut or mineral oil. Then wet the board to raise the grain, which is what happened when the rain hit your board. Then go back and sand like you did and give it several more coats.

I remember reading an entry not too long ago by Steve (SPalm) talking about this same thing.

I have not used walnut oil, and do not intend to do so. It is certainly more expensive, plus the potential food allergy issue could be a problem. I have used SBF, mineral oil, and mineral oil/beeswax combo. on boards. Eventually, the beeswax will be compromised since you're essentially cutting through it with each stroke of the knife.

I think it is imperative that you give a little instructional sheet to the boards new owner/recipient telling them exactly how to care for the board, as well as letting them know that it is made of wood and some of the potential changes that may take place, as well as how to cope with or prolong these changes from occuring in the first place. Be specific in instructing them how to clean and sanitize the board, including telling them to dry it off right away, not to soak it in the sink, never put it in the dishwasher, etc. And if there are no feet on it, to stand it on edge to dry. And definitely let them know they will occassionally need to apply fresh coats of mineral oil. I have told people to "apply a fresh coat of mineral oil once a month, or whenever the board looks dry." As woodworkers, we tend to be aware of these things, but people not familiar with wood traits might not give any of it a second thought until a problem arises. By then, the damage has been done. This also shows that you care about your work and that you are willing to help them get the best use out of it.


----------



## WoodArtbyJR (Apr 13, 2010)

I think I've mentioned before, I've only had to replace one board because it was coming apart and the was my daughter. She placed it in the DISHWASHER, SEVERAL TIMES….. Go testament for TitebondIII. I have since RE-CALOBRATED her cutting board cleaning process. I give out an instruction sheet for the care and sanitizing of their new wood cutting board. I have watched the video from the wood wisperer on sealing cutting boardsand have thought of trying his mineral oil and beeswax or the food grade wiping varnish. http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-2/ here is the link that was supplied to me for assistance. Like he says, there are many methods and it all depends on what works best for you or the one that you feel better with using.
Jomathon, like you stated, I probably didn't apply enough coats. Live and learn and don't rush you product.

Thanks


----------



## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

The last board I finished with mineral oil was a regular grain cutting board and I applied at least a dozen coats over the course of a week. I stopped counting at 10-coats and put several more on after that. I then topped it was George's Club House Wax, which is a combination of mineral oil and beeswax. At room temperature, it's about the consistency of cold butter.

The next end grain cutting board I make will be treated to the mineral oil week long soaking, then topped with the George's Club House Wax.

The first end grain board I made lives at our house. I finished it with the Wood Whisperer's SBF technique of thinning the SBF. It worked well and now I only occassionally wipe it with a quick coat of mineral oil and once in a while, add a coat of the George's Club House Wax to help it shed the water.

Dishwashers will kill any wood product in short order, that's for sure!

I'd agree with you… Titebond III is good stuff.


----------



## rrdesigns (Sep 4, 2009)

I believe in the same combo as Jonathan, only I use 100% pure tung oil followed by George's Club House Wax. About once a month (depending on use and condition) I rebuff with George's Wax. Brings all the original colors right back and reseals.


----------



## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

Beth, my only concern with using tung oil, is the same one as walnut oil: since tung oil is derived from a nut, I suppose it would be prudent not to use it on a product that may be used by anyone with a nut allergy.


----------



## MashMaster (Feb 12, 2011)

How do you tell if a mineral oil is USP grade?


----------



## WoodArtbyJR (Apr 13, 2010)

MashMaster, buy it in the laxative isle (that's where you'll normaly find it) and that stuff in meant to be taken internaly. Plus it will state that it is meant to be taken oraly.

Jim


----------



## OneAdamTwelve (May 14, 2015)

Resurrecting and old thread - I've been building boards and using only food grade mineral oil followed by a bee's wax mixture / buff. Works great but definitely darkens the wood considerably.

I'm wondering, for a recent Purple Heart / hard white maple board I made for a friend (a TCU grad) if the salad bowl finish would better preserve the purple color and not darken it as much as mineral oil is bound to? Anyone have an opinion or experience there?

This board would be used lightly or as display / cheese board so I'm not as worried about which finish I use for practical use.

I'm hoping the salad bowl finish might not darken the Purple Heart as much and keep it looking nice. Right now it's naked, sanded and waiting for me to make a decision 

Thanks!!!


----------



## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

The Salad Bowl finish should do the trick. I've got a cheese board I SBF on that's made up of curly maple, walnut, and pink lyptus. It did a great job of enrichening the walnut and pink lyptus without really darkening them much at all. We've used the board dozens of times and the only upkeep that's been needed to-date is washing it with warm water and dish soap, then promptly towel drying it.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

I have used Behandla salad owl finish on everything I make that contacts food. I apply two coats and wipe the second one after 15 minutes and then buff after 6 hours. I just made a cutting board counter in our kitchen and that is what I used on it. The first one lasted 10 years without recoating.
I just looked at Ikea and they don't carry it any more and i can't find it on Google.

I have used butcher block oil by Watco on some things and it gets too shiny! I don't like a film that can trap bacteria on a cutting board. Mineral oil it pretty good too and everyone can get it to recoat as needed.

cheers, Jim


----------



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

I don't know what the difference is between butcher block and salad bowl finish is but I have a question. Is it Ok to use butcher block finish on the spice bowls?


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

I use Behandla salad bowl finish from Ikea.
Jim


----------

