# Beyond the commercial cord reels: What if we made a shop-built version?



## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

In response of Al's blog post, I posted a quick-made video of what could be a possible way to implement a shop-made ceiling cord reel.

Several questions arise before attempting any plan development, and if some of you guys are actually interested in building one, let's try to sum up the needs:

- what wire/air tubing gauge would you use?
- what length would be required, more precisely: once the thing is at workbench level, by how far would you want to be able to pull it around the bench?
- remote control or wire pull control? (as in the ceiling fans with lights, you pull on a rope to turn the fan or the lights on)

An appreciable feature would be to have it also serve as a supplemental overhead light fixture, any interest in that?

I'll appreciate any feedback on this topic.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I think the issue is the non rotating connection portion.

How do maintain connection from the rotating part to the stationary input connection remembering that sparks in a possibly dusty shop should be avoided?

Obviously sparks would only happen if power was being consumed.
So, is disconnect a requirement a reasonable requirement?

Wouldn't be better to have a stationary opening instead of the cord whipping around? Just rotate the reel.

Just some early thoughts!

I am going to disassemble my manual cord reel to see the connection method.


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

If you rotate the reel then you also need an electrical junction that can rotate! That's why we avoid it with the rotating outer part


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Makes sense.

A 6 volt RC car motor geared properly could turn the winder!

Adding a "funnel" like cone to the underside could hide the whipping part of the cord!


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

You got it mate  though there are way cheaper alternatives to RC car motors, the geated motors found on ebay are tough and cheap. I bought several for my bandsaw mill, an when I tested them they held a lot of abuse with no trouble at all.


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## Zinderin (Jul 24, 2012)

My gut reaction is, we're playing in a deadly dangerous area here …. one large spark in a workshop full of dust (how often do you guys climb up in your ceiling and dust stuff off?) could result in not just a fire, but a big BOOM!

Maybe just approach the design such that, the cord has to be unplugged before its reeled in or let out. Not only safer, but makes your design far-far easier.


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

Do not need one…that is why I have 42 outlets in my shop. I Always have an outlet nearby in a convenient location.


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

@ Zin: why sparks? I'm talking about making it in such a way that there is a permanent connection between the cord and the mains, without any form of rotary electric junction. No sparking risk there (as far as I know, nobody ever had their shop blast out because their ceiling dust filtration sparked).


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

I don't get it. We're talking about a cord reel here- right? 
I'm all for shop-made gear…...when it makes sense. I made a crosscut sled for my TS because it was a cheap/easy build with no moving parts. I didn't want to pay $100 for a prefab that would likely need to be replaced within the next 2-3 years. 
However, I did pony-up $30 or $40 for my 30' ceiling-mounted cord reel. Building my own never crossed my mind. The price of the parts /time to build it would likely rival a prefab.And I doubt a shop-made reel would last as long as a prefab. 
I just don't see how the benefits will justify the actual/potential hassles. But my mind is open and I'm willing to learn. 
Oh and about the supplemental lighting. I use a trouble light with my cord reel. The hook on the fixture makes it easy to hang just about anywhere.


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## DanLyke (Feb 8, 2007)

I've been thinking about building this, and am realizing that I really have enough sockets that I don't need it, but…

Tedstor asked why? My biggie is that the cord reels I've seen ready-made are like 16ga wire and pretty flimsy. My main drop from the ceiling sockets right now is to my Festool saw and dust collector, and in heavy hardwood those can trip a 15A circuit, which is not a load I feel comfortable putting on a 16ga extension cord.


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

I'll tell you guys, the main advantage I see for my use of such a ceiling-mount reel is for powering handheld powertools at the bench, in the middle of the room, without having cords running on the floor. Neat, and mobile. 15A seems huge, I wouldn't use that solution for big hungry tools, but for palm sanders, jigsaw, and the such, why the heck not?


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## intheshop (Aug 18, 2010)

I recently bought one at, of all places, Harbor Freight. I'm quite happy with it, and it's a 12Ga, 25' with a triple tap. But I was also thinking of making one myself, just to see if I could do it. I was considering using one of those mechanisms that reels in the rope when you start the lawn mower. I never did any research or design on this thing, but the more I thought about it the more complex it became. I'm fairly certain it would have paled in comparison the one I bought.

By the way, the one I bought was $69.99. However, as I was checking out the cashier offered an opportunity to purchase a Harbor Freight loyalty memership for $29.99, and if I bought it, the cord reel would be $39.99. So I saved $30.00 by spending $29.99 - a net savings of $0.01. Now that's thrifty!! Every once in a while I'll get something there that's worth it, so ultimately, I'm happy with this transaction.


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

Hmm. I havent had any trouble with my cord reel popping breakers, but I only run one tool at a time and none of my tools are industrial sized. 
I wonder how much it'd cost to have a 20a circuit installed in typical garage?


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

Ah yeah, some numbers! Thanks Cole.

Sooo… Google Teh Almight sez: 25' equals 7 meters, waw, that's quite a length. Cole, do you find yourself extending its full length at times? 
My estimation was not far from that, 3 meters from ceiling to ground, meaning around 2 meters from ceiling to workbench top, plus two or three more for good measure, so around 5-7 meters.

12 gauge sounds quite enough, to me it's ~ 2 mm bare wire, times three for phase, neutral and ground, plus insulation. I guess the cord itself must be in the 0-4 Ga range.

Anyway, it seems, after looking at several manufacturers' datasheets, that a minimum radius of 10xØ would be okay. We can round that to 20xØ to be on the safe side, so for a cord with an outer diameter of 1 cm (big, hefty wire, 3/8") a central reel of 20 cm Ø would be good to go. In the 3D simulation, I had made it 60 cm wide, way more than needed actually.

My asking for such data was motivated by the need to keep the whole thing as compact and lightweight as possible, while having to take into account the minimal radius of the cord to avoid any stress on it.


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

Hmm in fact the previous post had not been sent in time (two hours ago), and I just posted it now. 
I've been working on a little software to calculate precisely the reel with several variable parameters: cable diameter, minimum diameter of the reel, reel height.

Actually, for a 25' / 7m cable of 3/4" / 1cm Ø (000 AWG), the numbers are really impressive: a reel of 8" / 20 cm inner diameter, with a height of 4" / 10 cm, and an outer barrel of 8"1/2 / 21 cm is high enough! So far so good. It seems that the unit can be built really small actually. The inner reel (fixed part) of 4" / 20 cm Ø is big enough for the geared motor assembly and power supply. I will definately be building a prototype this week once at the parents' house. I already have a pair of 20 cm Ø plywood disks from my homemade bandsaw project (to be finished this week too!) so expect a new blog post on the matter rather soon.

Thanks for the discussion guys, all in all it looks like the project can be built really easily, fast and cheap.


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

if it aint broke don't fix it

if it u can buy it cheaper then you can make it

buy it

if u can make it cheaper then you can buy it

make it


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

i would personally rather go fishing then try and improve on several multi million dollar investments into your quest.

You have too much time but as above. There are way worse ways to spend time.

I envy you and commend you for the fortitude towards failure, lol

been there, done that

let me know how it turns out.


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

Not trying to be discouraging but really, I have seen stranger things and am a believer in the super natural world of possibilities but I, at the same time, believe in science, statistics, math, etc., ……….all calculated I would rather be with family and friends, put my investment into wood, take my tools, and put a smile on a face then face an eye sore I made

Go ahead

prove me wrong and you have my instant respect.

all things measured : ))


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

Well, do you have a TV? 

I don't. That's why I can spare some time for such things


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

By the way, obviously we can all buy things cheaper than if we did them ourselves. Let's speak out of the woodworking area: I can't post it as a project, but I'm gonna show you several leatherwork projects (shoes) I made for my girlfriend. She can buy them readymade, of course, but they're always a poor fit to her size, and don't last more than a few months to a bit more than a year (even though she takes care of her stuff). When I make them for her, they're a perfect fit, way more durable, handmade by myself with caring love, and all things "good karma"  Not necesarily cheaper (though in the case of the two pairs I'm about to show here, yes, way cheaper than the original models).

Lookit dis:









made after a model from UK store Barratts, who won't sell outside the UK. How to get them? easy, reuse an old sole and sew some leather with reinforcement banding inside two layers.

How about these:









Same as above, the model existed but the fit wasn't good (too narrow), so I used a very small (less than the surface of an A4 printer paper sheet) but wonderfully stained piece of leather, bought for less than one euro at my workplace (ask Mads), plus another piece for the suede backing (same price tag, 1€60 for both pieces of split leather), some strong but thin cotton trim (worth 3€), a few hours sewing while chatting around with the family on two weekends, and there you have it. Perfect every time.

*SO WHO'S WRONG NOW, HUH?* =P

all things measured


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

Anyway, mission of this post: accomplished!


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

No

You cannot always buy things cheaper then you can make them.

Thats why I'm employed.

Nice shoes but my feet would kill me of I had to wear them all day.


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## brtech (May 26, 2010)

Do you want to give us a clue how you will have a part that rotates, around which the cord is wound, without having some kind of "commutator" = a sliding electrical connection between the fixed part and the rotating part?

Power cord doesn't twist too well. You can't even wind it around an inside circular space with the free end coming out if the center - it will die a quick death from too much twist - unless the diameter is huge. Anything that winds it around a cylinder can work, no twist, but then you need a commutator.

If you could figure out how to wind a figure 8, you might have a chance. Even a collapsed figure 8, which is a loop twisted clockwise followed by a loop twisted counter clockwise, can work if the loops are, oh,maybe two thirds of a meter or so diameter. That's the best way to "coil" a power cord (or a long microphone cord or any other thick cord). You coil one loop clockwise, then twist your wrist under to coil one loop counterclockwise and repeat. Easier to show than to describe, but it works - you can hold the coiled cord in one hand, with one free end in the other and throw the coil out. It will uncoil straight.


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

@BR: check out the video here if not already done. It could clarify things a bit. The cord is stationary, wound around a central cylinder, which is held to the ceiling by a vertical rod/bar/whatev and through the center hole of a lazy susan bearing, and the rotating part is attached to the upper side of said bearing. Exactly like ceiling fans with lights under them. Or like the 2nd pictured fishing reels in the blog post.

Anyway it will all become clear with the prototype once I get at the parents' place and into my shop!


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## brtech (May 26, 2010)

Don't think it will work. Every rotation of the cylinder will twist the free end a complete revolution. When you unwind, it will untwist, but the wire can't take that twisting.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Vacumn cleaners use retractable cords. Check out how they work. Maybe you can use the rewind mechanism from an old VC. The wire size used on VC's is around #16 or 18 which would be a bit small for large power tools. Just remove the male plug and replace it with a female. Also check this out http://www.mcmaster.com/#extension-cord-reels/=inv9qx Cost: only $43.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Mr Moron, It is not a question of cheaper to buy or make. People make things and usually spend more making it for different reasons. One is the pleasure you get from making something yourself. Another is, you can get better quality if it is handmade. This is not a "one size fits all" world.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

As usual Soda this is wayyyy over my head but im so along for the ride. Custom Pro-modifications!


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