# Workbench with no front stretcher



## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

I'd like to build a workbench, but in my very limited space, I'd really like to be able to roll my anarchist-style tool chest UNDER the bench when not in use…so that means building a bench without a front stretcher, or at least not a very low front stretcher. I just don't want the bench to rack when I do aggressive hand-planing.

Does anyone know of any designs, or have any ideas, that would accommodate this?


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

You might want to toe the legs out. I used threaded rod
in my bench stretchers and the whole thing is very solid. 
You could use a front stretcher up high and a rear one lower.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

You could slip a piece of angle-iron under the front. It'd give good support and maybe no one will notice it


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

Splay the legs like Loren says, there are benches out there made like this, they usually have a deep apron (8/9") to help with stability.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Have a look at the Paul Sellers bench.
It uses thick and deep aprons with dados for the legs.

http://paulsellers.com/series/building-a-workbench/


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## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

Thanks for the advice, I had not thought about the stability help that an apron would give…Let me know what you think of this idea:










There's a few extra lines on the front of the apron in this sketchup model, but just ignore those…


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

Would this work?? This was recommended by the blogger at Fullchisel…..an avid hand too guy. In fact, I think he's one of those 18th century, work-by-candle light, re-enactor types. That said, I'm sure its suitable for the riggors of hand planning.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

if you don't care for the wide front skirt you could also just use some corner bracing, or even use the front skirt with the center cut out to form corner bracing. Straight lines, wavy lines or some design could be implemented if it's more your style.

The splayed legs are a great design, but really don't add any stability side to side.


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

My tool bench is a 1 1/2" thick solid core door supported with metal leg/trusses. No stretcher. Mine is over 20 years old now. No sag at all. I mounted two drawers under it to hold spring clamps and still have room to get my legs under it when seated. Just make your bench tall enough to fit your tool chest.


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## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

I was originally thinking of a designg like the little roubo from Roy Underhill's show. And I also really like this "Little-JOhn Workbench (http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/?p=500). Then decided I wanted to roll my toll chest under it, so I just added a large skirt to the design (See pic above) in place of a front stretcher.

It has to be small (5 feet), so I thought the rear legs at the angle would help with stability. And I've decided I DO want a tool well. This will be primarily a hand-tool bench. So a thick, flat top is a must for hand-planing. The height will not be very negotiable, as it needs to be a good height for me to work at.

Ted-star, I like the notches in the apron on that picture…I might have to incorporate that. I'm hoping to maybe get this started in the next month or two, but realistically it might be after the New-Year. I've done some math, and Plan to make this bench for about $50. I think I can get all the wood for about $33.00. (I'll post more when I make some progress.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I'm not really sure what benefit the splayed legs add, stability shouldn't be an issue front to back… unnecessary complication.

Looks like you have a double screw vise on the front instead of a leg vise; I'd change that.


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## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

I believe the splayed legs help on front-to-back stability only if you are making a narrow bench, as I plan to. The legs splay back to widen the footprint, thereby increasing stability, but they come forward at the top so they can be joined to the actual benchtop, not just tot he tool tray area.

As to a leg vice, I have read all the benifits of one, and actually agree with most of them, but have decided on a twin screw for a few reasons:

-I have been using one for about 4 years now, and would miss it if I didn't have one.
-I don't want to have extra moxon bench-top vice lying around taking up space. And the fact that it was not permanently attached to the bench would mean more work for dovetailing.
-I do a lot more small joinery work than edge-jointing very large pieces of wood. 
-If I ever have a large shop with more space and a bigger bench, I would probalby go with the leg-vice/moxon combo.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

My top is 3" thick and the 4" square legs are embedded in 2 1/2" deep mortices filled with epoxy. A back side stretcher is 2 1/4" thick and 8" tall and about 6" off the floor, with through tenons pinned to the legs. The front don't need no stinking stretcher. Or apron, or brace or anything else. Sucker is solid as a concrete wall.


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## kokomoron (Feb 25, 2013)

Believe me. If Stephen Shepherd. (Full .Chisel) recommends something, it will work.


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## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

Here is my refined sketchup of what I've got so far…I think the front apron will do just the trick. I'll be able to roll my tool chest under there, and also my saw-bench. I'm planning to use a jorgenson press screw for the wagon vise. I can make the whole thing out of 3 2×10 SYP joists.


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