# How to Repair/Seal Dining Room Table Top



## nwadave (Nov 25, 2013)

Hello All!
We just purchased a used dining room table and 8 chairs, it seems to be decent quality, but I'm concerned about what seem to be signs of the table's veneer surface needing some TLC to prevent severe damage in the future…I'm just not sure what the best way to proceed would be.

The best way to describe what I see as slight damage or problems with the surface is: 
-When you run your hand over the surface, it feels like the grain is raised 
-There are very slight bubbled areas which don't really move much if at all when pressed with a fingernail 
-the grain or pores seem to be "split open" (see pic)

The problems with the surface turned out to be very difficult to photograph, the bubbled areas being so slight I can't seemt to get a pic that shows them. The pic does seem to show the open pores or crevices in the grain though.

What would be the easiest & most effective way to repair or at least prevent further damage to this table top? I want to be able to use the table on a daily basis for dinner with 4 children ages 11-17.

Any help & expert advice would be appreciated!


----------



## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

I would strip just the top with Citristrip, wash it down with naphtha, sand lightly with 220 drywall sanding screen, and apply a couple coats of waterborne poly floor finish.


----------



## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

The only thing I can add to Clint's suggestion is before stripping it, prick the bubbles with a pin or slit them open with a razor. If pricking it, use the glue bottle to push on the bubble, allow glue to get sucked into the bubble as you relieve pressure; put a pierce of plastic over it and use weights, or a board clamped on both side of the table with 3 or 4 quarters over the bubbled are. Do the same with slit method; its a lot easier. Just push on one side of the bubble, pour glue in and do the same on the other side.
Best of luck.


----------



## nwadave (Nov 25, 2013)

The blisters are so slight, they're kind of hard to see, but there are a lot of them. After much reading online, I've come up with a plan:

1. Wipe down with mineral spirits to remove furniture polish.
2. Lightly sand.
3. stain.
4. seal with Zinsser/Rustoleum Sealcoat dewaxed shellac sanding sealer. (to seal any remnents of furniture wax/silicone).
5. Topcoat with 4 coats Varathane polyurethane.

Still not sure what to do with the blisters, there are so many…have any of you tried ironing them like I've seen mentioned elsewhere?


----------



## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

That was going to be my next suggestion, iron them. Your plan looks very good, it should do the job. However, before implementing it, I would make sure your table top is totally dry; the blisters might be an indication of moisture under the veneer. Maybe wait a few days and see any additional bubbles will pop up, if so, then you don't want to trap that moisture underneath or you will have a bigger problem than now. Pricking the bubbles will help moisture to escape.


----------



## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

You're gonna turn a small problem into a pile of crap.


----------



## nwadave (Nov 25, 2013)

Clint - you don't think anything needs to be done with the small blisters? They're so slight, I can't even feel them.


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Staining over a partially sanded finish will be problematic. You need to decide whether you are just buffing the topcoat /adding a topcoat and addressing the bubbles, or going for a total refinish.

A total refinish will risk sanding through the veneer.


----------



## nwadave (Nov 25, 2013)

Okay, so I ended up sanding off the old finish. Orbital sander, 150 grit, then 220 grit. The "small blisters" just disappeared when I sanded, so they must not have even been blisters, but rather some sort of defect in the finish.

I only had 3-4 very minor issues with sanding through the veneer- hardly noticeable at all. Stained it with minwax, will follow that with sealcoat, then 4 coats of varathane.

Looking good so far, especially considering I'm such an ametuer


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Nice save!


----------



## nwadave (Nov 25, 2013)

Thanks, pintodeluxe! I was nervous about sanding & ruining it, but I am so glad I did!


----------



## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Good job man. It should serve the family till the kids are gone.


----------



## nwadave (Nov 25, 2013)

Just finished the second coat of Zinsser Sealcoat dewaxed shellac. First time I ever used it, that stuff dries wicked fast!

Saturday, I'll be putting on 4 coats of the varathane. Any opinions out there on what to apply the varathane with? Foam applicator brush or nylon brush?


----------



## Craftsman70 (Jul 31, 2012)

I'm a newbie at finishing too. So let me ask, why put down the Shelac first? Why not just stain and go to the Varathane (poly)?


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

That's a great save Dave. Ive got zero experience with varathane but for other urethane top coats I like to brush on one coat with a white bristle brush and the rub on the subsequent coats with an old clean tshirt. Ive just about given up on those foam brushes unless its the underside of something that wont be seen. I get too many bubbles in the finish with them.

Craftsman - the sanding sealer / shellac will fill the pores of the red oak so you don't get a blotchy top coat.


----------



## nwadave (Nov 25, 2013)

chrisstef - thanks for the reply. I've never rubbed on a finish of any kind (other than stain ...is it possible when rubbing on to get as much thickness in each coat? I know this may sound dumb, but can you detail your method for me?


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Dave - a wiped on finish goes on really light so its a multiple coat application. Basically i wad up a puece of an old white tshirt, dunk it in the finish, and wipe it with the grain. I try and make sure the area thats making contact with the wood is smooth. No ripples in it. Nice light strokes. Its easy to push diwn too hard and create streaks. Like i said ive never used varathane so im not sure how thick the consistency is. Wipe on poly is usually thinned about 50% for example.

Is the varathane water or oil based?


----------



## nwadave (Nov 25, 2013)

chrisstef - The varathane is water-based, supposedly tough as nails…hope so as it will be used daily. I'm going for 4 nice thick coats, so I think I'll try my hand at brushing it on


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Good choice. Best of luck Dave. Keep us posted.


----------



## nwadave (Nov 25, 2013)

Hey, guys! I've got 2 of at least 4 coats of the varathane on so far today…2nd coat drying now. I began thinking about how I'm going to rub out the finish. I know it's a little early for that but, just trying to decide & plan. I found this article: Rubbing Out

As a newbie, I have a couple of questions:
-The varathane I'm using is gloss, as I was planning on a high gloss finish, but the article says you can rub out gloss to satin or semi-gloss…so I'm wondering, do you guys think a high gloss finish on a table used daily will be durable?
-If I initially rub out as a high gloss, and later change my mind, I assume I could then rub out down to satin or semi, right?
-Anyone have anything to add to what the article says?

Thanks, guys!


----------

