# Milling Dry Cherry



## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

I felled a cherry on my property in March of last year and bucked it this past February. Much of it became firewood for my uncle, but I left 3 3' long, 16" thick logs for myself. I wasn't able to get them out until last week (the steep mountain road to the property is not driveable when muddy or snowy, and I live 400 miles away).

I'm getting them milled this Friday. The logs show some visible checking on the ends, which are also weathered and gray, but I hope they yield some decent lumber. I want to do some simple slab benches and tables, just some strong, good furniture. I am aware, though, that I may have gone through all this trouble for some firewood.

Does anyone have any experience milling wood that has sat out that long after felling? And, what do I do after done at the mill? I have no experience seasoning and storing lumber like this.

Thanks!


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

You will be surprised how wet the wood will be inside the log. Sticker it well with good air flow, just like you would green lumber. Realize that cherry is bad to split at the pith.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

Thanks Danny. I've never milled and stored lumber before. From what I've read on here, I understand that I need to stack the slabs on same-sized stickers. I have a ton of pine or fir 1x that I can use for this.

Now, what about sealing the ends? I'm especially curious about this because of the checking.


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

I always seal the ends with anchorseal, but it has to be done quickly after the log has been felled to do the most good. At this point, since it has been over 8 months, they have probably checked as much as they will.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

Thanks again; I will post some pictures this Friday.


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## bannerpond1 (Mar 15, 2013)

Matt, I've had to take down three large cherry trees on my property. The board above was from the largest, 28 inches in diameter and about 20 feet tall at the first branch. Use stickers made from the same species. I would NOT use the pine to sticker it. If you discolor the cherry, you're not going to be happy. You should have plenty of waste from milling your logs to use for stickers. On your three-foot boards, three stickers, one inch or so in thickness, will suffice. Make sure your base is level and that you can get airflow under the bottom board. Place the stickers so that they line up perpendicular from one board to another. Use something rigid as the last layer and put some cinder blocks or something on it, in line with the stickers, to preclude any twisting as the boards dry. I have had great luck in drying the cherry, which I QS in a nearby mill. I gladly suffer the increased waste in order to get the QS boards.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

Dale, that board is impressive. Thanks also for the advice; I haven't yet thought about quarter sawing my logs because I would like to get some wider boards. But now I see that QS will give me more quality lumber.

I wonder if I could get a decent 2" slab from the center of each log, giving me a 3 wide pieces that will hopefully not warp too bad, and QS the rest?


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## TCCcabinetmaker (Dec 14, 2011)

Drying times depend a lot on your location, if they've been in a really wet envirionment, the lumber may still be green, fairly dry, it may be seasoned. As for checking, well you should have put some kind of paint on the ends when you fell them to ensure that the moisture content is consistent, as logs tend to lose moisture at the ends more rapidly than along the bark. Go ahead and put something on those ends just the same, and hopefully you do not already have case hardening, which is where the boards dry out on the outside faster than on the inside.


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

It is best to use dry stickers to avoid sticker stain. If you cut a 2" slab from the center of each log in cherry, the slab will crack at the pith. Cherry is notorious for cracking at the pith.


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## bannerpond1 (Mar 15, 2013)

Matt, I have the sawyer cut two or three thick boards in the widest part of the log. The wood in those will be QS in the middle, but you have to rip out the pith. No problem with a big log. That's what you see in the photo. The boards on either side of the pith will be either QS or rift sawn, depending on the diameter of the log and the thickness of your cuts. The photo shows what I do and is oriented for the first cuts.

1, Cut two or three boards through the pith. Put them aside; they're done.
2. You now have two "half moons." Put them face to face and stand them up on the saw's table. Cut three boards from this, the middle of which would line up with the pith.
3. You now have four quarter rounds. Two at a time, put them face to face like bookends and cut timbers from them. These will make perfect table legs because it will be perfectly rift sawn. The grain will be the same on all four sides compared to a flat-sawn timber.
4. Once you have the four timbers cut, get as much as you can from the remainder. I figure it makes good face frames or picture frames.

I hope this helps.


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## RobertT (Oct 14, 2010)

I have used osb for stickers with no side affects you can get nearly a hundred from a signal sheet.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

Thanks everyone for the advice. I talked to the sawyer already about what ideas I have for this wood, but he will give me some options too once he sees the logs. I will be heading to the mill tomorrow after work and will post pictures after.


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## summerfi (Oct 12, 2013)

Matt - Dale's post above had some excellent advice. I would still go ahead and seal the ends of the boards, as now that they're sawn, they likely will split more. When you have splitting on both ends of a 3' board, there's not much left. Anchorseal is a good product, but is expensive and may not be available locally to you. Don't waste your time painting the ends, they will still crack. I would heat up some paraffin and either dip the ends or paint it on. You only need to cover the end grain. It's relatively inexpensive and will do a good job. Also, when stickering, keep your stickers as close to the ends of the boards as possible. This will also help prevent splitting. If stored outside, be sure to cover with something that will shed water, like a piece of old roofing tin or something similar. And adding weight, like a bunch of cinder blocks, will help prevent twisting and warping. It's surprising how much weight it takes.


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## quvia (Nov 1, 2013)

I air dry alot of sawn wood and even after a few years drying time I would advise putting your wood in the enviormet it will live in. It will do what it wants for a while and then cut to width plane etc. you will end up with a nice board at the end. It takes time though.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

The milling went fine yesterday. I got it all plain sawn; I know quarter sawn would have yielded better boards but I'm willing to take the risk of plain sawing to get more lumber. I hastily stacked it yesterday on OSB stickers but will cut stickers from the waste and restack today. I looked for some paraffin wax for the ends yesterday but Lowes and the local hardware store did not carry it, nor did they have Anchorseal.

What else can I use to paint the ends? Is any latex-based paint ok?


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

I may have to post pictures one at a time.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

Waste pieces:
That one awkward looking chunk came from a log that had two other trunks branching out. I wanted to get some full slabs from that but It was difficult for the sawyer to get his saw set up for that one. I think I can find a use for that piece. The two crotches in that log were filled with ants, anyway.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

Some of the good stuff:


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

Latex paint you've got is better than Anchorseal you don't. Get some paint on the ends ASAP to prevent checking.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

Nice slabs, by the way.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

Thanks. I will pick up some paint tomorrow and get those ends painted.


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

You can get paraffin wax at the grocery store in the canning section. Latex paint is not worthless as an end sealer, but it is close.


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## ACD (Dec 8, 2013)

Sorry to jump in here but I would like to talk with Danny bit I am so new I cannot send a PM. Danny can you PM or email at [email protected] I want to talk with you about some wood. Thanks. Tony. Matt, thats some nice wood you made there, I need a lot like that.


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## tnwood (Dec 13, 2009)

I have milled cherry that was down for more than a year but stored as sealed logs on posts about 8" above ground level through a hard winter with a lot of snow. Absolutely nothing wrong with it. The two major things you must do are seal the ends and get it off the ground. Once it is milled, stack it with stickers and put some weight on top or put banding around it to keep it flat. I have lost very few logs if I keep them off the ground and sealed but recently lost a nice cherry to an ant infestation because it was in the dirt.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

I have it stored inside a shed now. The inside temp of the shed is the same as outside, it's not heated or cooled. The boards are stickered on OSB strips; I have been slowly cutting pieces of the waste to restack it with as many cherry stickers as I can make. I have some CMUs sitting on top of each stack but will put some more bricks on it after I change out the stickers.


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

Hobby or craft stores like Hobby Lobby sell paraffin too. Looks like you got some nice boards. How much did you pay to get them milled if you don't mind my asking?


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

I paid $60. The man who owns and runs the mill charges by the board foot, of course, but a coworker of mine helps him out every once in a while and offered to mill the logs for that price. I think the sawyer/owner didn't want to deal with the short logs, which were almost too short to be held stable on the mill.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

Update: I waxed the ends with paraffin today.

Here's some advice of my own: when painting end grain with wax in a dimly lit shed, make sure you don't bump into the pot of liquid wax while bending over to place a slab on the stack. The wax will spill all over your jacket and dry immediately, leaving your once-black jacket half white and stiff as armor.

Don't ask me how I know.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

Ummmm, it might be a bit late to mention it but Mineral oil is nearly the same thing as paraffin. 
Someone else also mentioned using latex paint which is probably a better choice.
Most stores that color paint will sell their mistakes really cheap.

I buy gallons for $3-$5 Sometimes 5 gallon buckets for less than $10. Just ask at anyplace that mixes paint.

It ain't gotta be purdy, just useful….. like my wife says about husbands.


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## TerryDowning (Aug 8, 2012)

Wax the rest of the jacket and call it water proof!!

I use up leftover latex paint that is just around the shop as color on this does not matter and there always seems to be left over paint. If buying, what Dallas suggests.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

I appreciate all the opinions and advice given on this thread. I've learned quite a bit on here. Woodworkers are certainly not lacking in differing opinions on how things should be done, but they sure are more civil about it than other forums I frequent!

And Terry, that's a good idea. I believe Filson sells waxed clothing for insane prices…I may be on to something here.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

Waxed cotton is quite a good waterproofing technique. My messenger bag uses it, as do traditional bicycle bags. It's like old-school GoreTex: waterproof and breathable.


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

Tony,

I will send you an e-mail.

Cherry is very forgiving to dry. For best drying, you need air flow to move out the water vapor from the air between the layers of wood as the water evaporates. Generally, stacking inside an enclosed shed is not good. There is little air movement. Better to stack in an open shed, but not everyone has an open shed. You can get away with this more so with cherry than many other species. Fast drying species like maple, yellow poplar, and pine will mildew and mold when there is inadequate air flow. You need good air exchange for good drying.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

Yeah, right now all I have is a small garden shed. It is a bit drafty, if that helps air flow at all. It's a good dry location, though.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

Update:

Tomorrow I'm picking up some oak I just got milled. I'm planning on storing it temporarily in the back yard under our deck. The deck offers decent protection from rain but it still gets wet under there, so I'm going to cover it with a tarp. the surface is flag stone, but on top of that I'll put some 4×4s to keep the oak off the ground and then sticker the lumber with oak.

Any comments on this setup are greatly appreciated. I don't have any other options right now as to where I season this lumber but I ca be flexible in the method I use. Is the tarp a bad idea? I'm under the impression that the new lumber getting wet repeatedly over two years is worse than sacrificing some air flow with the tarp.


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

x


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

Use the tarp as a roof, but do not cover the sides of the stack.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Just keep listening to Danny. He won't lead you wrong!
Danny, Those may be the tidiest stacks I've ever seen! And great shed.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

Thanks Danny. I'll set the tarp up to keep water from pouring in but not to block air flow.

I'll get some pictures up tomorrow or Friday.


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

Andy,

Thank you. That shed was built to house the sawmill and to air dry lumber. I really focus on stacking the boards carefully so that they will dry nice and straight.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

I picked my lumber up today, waxed the ends, and stickered it. The sawyer gave me a bunch of dry stickers but the way I restacked it, I ran out and did one stack with plywood stickers. I also cinched the stacks down with ratchet straps. I had to do all that quickly because I had to go to class this evening.

Tomorrow I'm going to cut stickers from dry scrap 2×4s I picked up at school. These will replace the plywood ones I cut in haste. I thought about using some of that oak but after doing some reading, it seems that using green lumber for stickers is a bad idea because of the chances for mold and mildew. I've read conflicting info about using pine for stickers. So, I'll have to find out for myself what works and what doesn't. Will post pictures tomorrow.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I've used a lot of plywood stickers (some flat and some on edge) with no problems.


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

> I ve used a lot of plywood stickers (some flat and some on edge) with no problems.
> 
> - gfadvm


Do you find plywood stickers to be rigid enough to do the job ?


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

Pine is fine as long as it is dry.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Yonak, Maybe Danny should chime in as I don't think I've ever had problems with 3/4" ply stickers.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

> I ve used a lot of plywood stickers (some flat and some on edge) with no problems.
> 
> - gfadvm


I have some cherry sitting on OSB stickers that I'll check out later this fall. I might keep some plywood in this batch to see how it works for me.

I got my saw set up outside to cut some stickers from 2×4s but then it started to rain. I snapped a picture of the stacks how they are now. I need to get the oak up off that pressure treated lumber and get some wood between my scraps and the oak so the pressure is more evenly distributed and I don't get dents on the corners of the bottom and top pieces.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

One of these days I need to get a trailer and a winch. It would make loading green logs much easier and I could get longer logs, too.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Matt, I have used OSB stickers as well with no problems noticed.

I assume you have those ratchet straps aligned with your stickers? Don't forget to tighten them every few days as the drying wood will shrink some.


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## nicksmurf111 (Jun 6, 2014)

Matt, $60 seems like a lot (for what you show inside the back of your truck). What's his rate? I had about 3 times that milled last year for $60. Maybe I got the "friend of the family" rate.

For drying under your deck, what about finding some old metal or fiberglass roofing and putting it over top? I can't get cheep tarps to last more than 8-10 months or so on my firewood pile.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

> Matt, I have used OSB stickers as well with no problems noticed.
> 
> I assume you have those ratchet straps aligned with your stickers? Don t forget to tighten them every few days as the drying wood will shrink some.
> 
> - gfadvm


The straps are in line with the stickers. When I get a clear day, I'll put longer stickers on the bottom and top of the stack to spread the force of the straps out more on the pieces they are on now.



> Matt, $60 seems like a lot (for what you show inside the back of your truck). What s his rate? I had about 3 times that milled last year for $60. Maybe I got the "friend of the family" rate.
> 
> For drying under your deck, what about finding some old metal or fiberglass roofing and putting it over top? I can t get cheep tarps to last more than 8-10 months or so on my firewood pile.
> 
> - nicksmurf111


The cherry was $60 and was done by a guy I work with who sometimes helps the guy who owns the mill. I assume that price was less than the rate the owner charges.

I've been thinking of a long term solution to replace the tarp, which is just temporary. I could build some sort of shed roof on poles to keep rain and snow out but still allow good air circulation.


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

> I have some cherry sitting on OSB stickers that I'll check out later this fall. I might keep some plywood in this batch to see how it works for me.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Matt, I would say OSB stickers would be as good as more rigid hardwood stickers in your example. What I'm concerned about is 40" or 48", normal width stacks, where the weight of the boards above help to keep the internal boards flat.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

We've had a wet stretch of days here lately but yesterday I got a chance to re-stack my oak lumber. i kept the plywood stickers in there. I turned the stacks 90 degrees in that back corner under the deck so there would be less chance of rain and snow blowing in on them. I also put some stickers in between the oak and the ratchet straps; the straps did compress the corners of the top and bottom pieces but that is not a big deal. Finally, I made a rough, ugly roof out of scrap 2×4 and reclycled plywood. The roof sits on top of the stacks, allows air to circulate, and has enough slope and overhang to keep most rain from getting in the stacks. I'm happy with the setup; now I have year or so to make plans for that nice oak lumber.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Matt, Get a moisture meter (~$25 at Lowes) and check the MC every few weeks. You will be surprised how quickly it will reach 15%. At which point you can bring it in the house or shop for a few days and then build something!


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

> Matt, Get a moisture meter (~$25 at Lowes) and check the MC every few weeks. You will be surprised how quickly it will reach 15%. At which point you can bring it in the house or shop for a few days and then build something!
> 
> - gfadvm


Good idea. I hadn't thought of that before!


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