# Edge jointing on a table saw



## X541 (Feb 20, 2011)

I used an edge jointing technique on my tablesaw that seemed to work better than edge jointing on my jointer. If the cupped portions of the edge of a board both make contact against the fence for the entire length of a rip cut, the resulting cut should be straight right? The problem is that most fences aren't long enough for longer boards. I clamped a 4 foot straight edged level to my tablesaw fence that protruded well past the front of my saw. I then ran my stock cupped to the fence and nibbled the edge of the other side resulting in no waste. Does anyone see any safety issue in this? Obviously severely bowed edges that flex easily need not apply.

I've searched edge jointing on a tablesaw and most results showed the use of a jig next to the blade.


----------



## X541 (Feb 20, 2011)

My jointer is a Jet 10 in jointer/planer combo. Jack of all trades, master of none? The in and out feed tables could be longer IMHO. The thing I did not like about the jigs next to the blade was the akward side force into the blade. I know it's supported but the anti kickback knee-jerk reaction to side force on a table saw is always there.


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I use an 8' long straight board as my 'board straightener'. I clamp (or tape) the crooked board to the straight board with an edge hanging over the edge of the straight board. Then just run the straight board against the fence. You now have one straight side on your crooked board. Flip it over and run the straight side against the fence and you now have 2 straight and parallel sides. I also use a simple sled for 'straightening' short boards. It is just a piece of plywood with a miter strip glued to the underside. Hope this is clear. I find it difficult to joint boards longer than 6' on my jointer.


----------



## X541 (Feb 20, 2011)

That makes sense gfadvm. I may design a board like yours to use in my shop, one with dedicated clamps on it.


----------



## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

If ya use a "glue line" rip blade you'll get a great edge. Mine is an Infinity rip blade. Slick and smooth. Freud also has one.
Bill


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

gfadvm is right. You are better off securing your straightedge to your work and letting the straightedge slide across the fence. Using this method also allows a straightedge just the length of your board. Your way requires double that length. Many roads to the same destination though. 

Other means of attachment are double sided tape. Works fine, lasts a long time. gfadvm, I like the miter rail idea. Maybe 180 grit sandpaper on top could suffice too.


----------



## Loren (May 30, 2008)

What you describe is a straight-line ripping technique. With a good blade
and a good saw it can produce glue ready joints, but for finer work I 
would recommend making a pass on the jointer afterwards, assuming
you have a decent jointer, because while actually correcting edges on
a jointer requires insight and skill, making a straight sawn edge jointed
is easier and will make for better looking joints generally.

I've both ripped and jointed lots of glue joints over the years and
no matter what tool you use you have to be attentive to the
geometry you are creating. Jointers have the capacity, used 
skillfully, to make a joint almost equivalent to a hand-planed joint;
table saws do not, but in lots of work, especially with coarser
woods like oak, ripped joints aren't all that noticeable, especially
in horizontal applications.


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

It's worth noting that it's definitely possible to edge joint with a TS, but if the board isn't flat (best done on a jointer or planer sled) the edges may not be square to the face along the entire length of the board.

It's also worth noting that you don't need a specialized "glue line ripper" (GLR) to get glue ready edges. Most good 30T to 60T blades are easily capable of a glue ready edge, and many of the better 24T are also capable if all goes well but are more borderline.


----------

