# tutorial



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

*RIBBONS ANYONE ?*

i been back to the shop more recently
making some gifts
and in the process of making some accents for them
thought you might like to know how to do it

this is the ready parts to be used for that
and how i made them









i start by selecting the woods that have some contrast to each other
and are different than the background they will be in
all the same size and with double tape on both ends
(make them wider and thicker than the finished part
or the processes will eat up your wood)









laying them on edge so they are all true to each other
and the ends are even i bring them together
and just squeeze a clamp to be sure they bond
(here is a good place to hash mark the ends the same
so the parts don't get mixed or turned over or end for end)









and on the band saw cut thru the whole shebang
smooth and flowing no jerks or recuts
(it leaves a void on one side or the other)









then mix them up and re-glue together
(if some are slightly curved as they come together
i put them to the outside so the clamps bring them home)



























now it is time to clean them up some
(i use wax paper to glue on and pull the pieces off
when they are clamped so both sides dry together
and with a putty knife clean them as best as i can
before the glue is rock hard)
so a trip thru the sander both sides
(or the saw if no sander or the planer
if the grains are all in the same direction
or they can chip up )
and back to the beginning with the double tape









make sure as you do this
that the parts and colors get evenly distributed 
or they will have a predominant color in one or two
that looses the effect
(i am careful not to switch them end for end
or flip one over as the cuts will be totally different in that piece)









now it is just a matter of how you like the look
as to whether you keep going or not
(for these i cut thru 5 times
cleaning and re-gluing at each step) 
i stay away from the edges somewhat 
as they will need to be jointed and ripped to the same finished size









once they are all the same and true
it is time to re-saw them if desired
i had started out with 3/4" x 1 1/2" stock
and wound up with 5/8" x1 1/4" 
so i got 3 pieces at 3/16" 
and ran them thru the sander on a sled
with a stop on the end to pull them thru
flipping over and over till they were 1/8" thick









and here is the results 









this can be used this way for accents
or done in thicker and wider 
like this one for my sisters memorial box









thank you for stopping by

have a safe and enjoyable shop time


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


That is a great tutorial!

Now all I need is wood, glue, time & motivation to put it to use!


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## REK (Aug 30, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


That works for me Mister!!! I always wondered how that was done. I was thinking to myself as I read Thur how yellow heart, and blood wood would be the perfect start to a ribbon. When the time comes this will be the perfect
accent for almost any project. ERES UN GENIO DAVID!!! I have the wood and the glue and the motivation, time is
another problem. Big Smile l learned something new today.


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## woodpezzer (May 13, 2012)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Sometimes when you accidentally click a link you didn't even see.. something wonderful appears. Yah! Thanks for posting this tutorial. I am going to try making your ribbon accents someday. They are cool. And the box is beautiful.. Nice work!


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## vcooney (Jan 4, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Very cool


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## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


These definitely bear the mark of the master. Well explained, David. A lot more than just the ordinary.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


thanks all

it is still early to see yet
but there is purpleheart in this mix
when it turns purple
it will show better 
with the redheart
and maple
and lacewood

martyn
i still need to make a rig 
to do your ez-miter on the router table
with a 45 deg cutter
so i can just fold them over the edges
in a dado for a box infill

that sure is a great way
and no loss to kerf

thanks


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## S4S (Jan 22, 2011)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


I have always enjoyed your approach to elliptical constructions, David . You have a way of turning geometry into things of beauty . ( you , also, BB )


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## bluekingfisher (Mar 30, 2010)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Thanks for the info. I have just bought some books on box making, thinking it would be nice to make use of the scraps of wood around the shop and provide family and friends with some gifts to boot.

I shall add this to my favourites listings, I'm sure I'll use your methods in the future,

Thank you.

Davis


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Hi David.
It looks wonderful, what a beautiful way to make the woods blend.
Great tutorial I have to try this one day.
Beautiful box.
Best thoughts my friend,
Mads


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## sedcokid (Jul 19, 2008)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


What a beautiful way to make a truly unique gift for someone, a gift that no one else would or could have!! You are extremely imaginative my friend!! Beautiful Work!!

Thanks for Sharing


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Hi David,

Very nice job, and excellent photos. Would have taken me nine years to figure that out.

Lee


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## ShopTinker (Oct 27, 2010)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Great tutorial David. I really like these and will add making some to the very long to do list.


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## Tootles (Jul 21, 2011)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


That's a great lesson. Thanks David


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


thanks all again

your positive help is a great joy for me
so much so
that i baked a cake before dawn 
and the daily heat here

i just had some 
(sorry but it seems i ate your share first
in my haste to beat buddy to it
(he is very concerned for me
and tastes everything to make sure i don't get sick
from my own cooking) lol

have a good day


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## REK (Aug 30, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


I haven't heard much about Buddy, lately. I think it is important that you let him preform his duty as official taste tester. After all he is only looking out after you.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


buddy has a girlfriend
that comes and goes back to santa fe
he is gone for days when she is around
and just lays on the porch waiting
when he is home

can't say as i blame him


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


David, truly a Master Class

You have ideas bursting to get out

I'm learning every time I read your

posts

Jamie


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## REK (Aug 30, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Sounds like my 16 year old…but he has to be home by 6 every night for dinner.


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## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Good lookin' ribbons David. Thanks for the tutorial…..


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## Kookaburra (Apr 23, 2012)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Oh, you are giving away your secrets! If you had not explained this, I would NEVER have figured out how you did it. This results in a fascinating pattern that looks lovely in the finished project. Thank you for your generosity in sharing your technique.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


As always Patron youve got a way of making something mind boggling really easy to perform. Im stashing this one away in the favorites folder. Thanks!


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## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Thank you David.
This is a very nice tutorial.

You are very generous to share your master talent.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


great tutorial David, this is something ive started to play with myself, but in a more simplistic way, i have not gone into the wild blue yonder like you have, this surely opens many doors for many projects, thank you for sharing your knowledge, some folks keep things like this as there secret, i think sharing it helps all become good at our craft…this is really beautiful…


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## moonls (Mar 23, 2010)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Thanks for the tutorial David. I've not seen this method before and I like it!


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Thanks, David, for a great "how-to". I have put this on my list of things to try!


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## Marpintero (May 26, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Thanks for the tutorial Patron. Very usefull for make some gifts on the future.
A hug.
Martín


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Excellent blog on a very interesting technique David. Great result on the box too. Do you plan to blog your cake recipe?


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


ah …
sunday nap
(8am to 10am)

nice comments all

thank you

well mike
1 - $1.25 box of cake mix
3 eggs
1/3 cup oil
1 1/4 cup water

350 deg 30 min

so simple even i can do it


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Dave,
no pictures, never happened. I don't see no cake???? Did Buddy eat the blog too?


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


as you can see rand
there is cake

buddy's motto is
'let them eat broccoli'

is the pan half empty
or half full









the bigger question is
which half is yours


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## jack1 (May 17, 2007)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


That's what I get for not answering right away. Last place!! 
This is a great thing you do for all of us. I'm always blown away by your skills…

Thanks again.

Jack


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## NateMeadows (May 11, 2012)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Awesome work David! Beautiful!

Nate


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Just another Master Class in woodworking from the *Maestro*...


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## sicilian (Jan 31, 2010)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Very very nice work and idea. Realy nice project patron.My congratulations!!


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## mikethetermite (Jun 16, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Thanks for posting this beautifully done tutorial. 
Sometimes I wish I lived next door to you. I would bring my stool just to sit and watch a master at work.


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


That's some great work - and great explanation…...Will be some lucky recipients out there!


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## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


You are a master at cut and switch.
Thanks for sharing.


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## amagineer (Apr 16, 2011)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


It is a joy to be a LJ member and see expert woodworkers come up with this wonderful designs. I take my hat off to you.
_don


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## REK (Aug 30, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


1 - Box Cake mix $1.25 
3 eggs 75 cents
1/3 cup oil .25 cents
1 1/4 cup water .00005 cents

Patron & Buddy Snoring on the Sofa

.........................Priceless…......................


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## DanYo (Jun 30, 2007)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


great posting BUD … one of my favorites


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Dave, I get the half on the right, the no carb side. But are you sure that is not corn bread?lol
I still like the lid on your sisters box the best. That was a stroke of genius.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


honestly officer
i banged my head
on the way thru the door

just for you rand
but you have to share


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Oh thank you kind sir. The different woods in the ribbon is beautiful, but the lid with just the grain of the maple is something else to me. I guess it is one of those ideas of less is more.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


David, I remain in awe of your skills in the shop and the kitchen!


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## studie (Oct 14, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


David, thank you again for sharing your genus talent with us! A masters touch makes natures wood even more beautiful.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


well hang on andy

i am making some 
instant mashed potatoes


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## KOVA (Nov 21, 2011)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


*Y AQUÍ VA EL GRAN MAESTRO DE NUEVO!!!!!!!
ERES UN GENIO DAVID!!!!!!
GRACIAS POR ENSEÑARNOS ;-0*


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


gracias kova
por ser atendiente

and again
*thank you all*


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## KOVA (Nov 21, 2011)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


*VOS TE LO MERECÉS: MAESTRO Y AMIGO ;-D*


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## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


*David* you are a master in this craft thanks for the lession and sharing it my friend,and a good master for ole buddy too hes a lucky dog


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## lumberdustjohn (Sep 24, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Thanks for the blog.
I am sure to use it sometime.

Thanks for posting!


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Your cooking looks delicious.
Your woodworking looks nice. 
Your blogging is helpful. 
And if you put your Purpleheart out in the sun for an hour or so, it'll be bright.

(Purpleheart: Cut in to it and you see the ugly color. Plane it, sand it, then set it out in the sun to recapture its nice purple color before you apply your finish. )


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## rivergirl (Aug 18, 2010)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


ANOTHER BEAUTY! I love it!


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## KOVA (Nov 21, 2011)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...



A LA NOTIFICACIÓN DE ÉSTE PROYECTO TUYO, 
NO LA TIRÉ PARA MIRARLO DE VEZ EN CUANDO, DE NUEVO GENIO ;-)**


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

patron said:


> *RIBBONS ANYONE ?*
> 
> i been back to the shop more recently
> making some gifts
> ...


Just found this, David, and am blown away! It has been added to the ever growing LIST! Thank you for the detailed tutorial and especially the cautions!


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

*wavy wood build in small scale*

from my recent project post

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/73330

it seems many like the 'wavy' design the most









here is how it evolved
i started out with a piece of melamine
and drew a line across it
and divided it into equal parts
and with a can big enough to give it a smooth curve alternating 
back and forth took it to the bandsaw and cut it there

i made some strips with my 'thin strip' guide
(1/8"x3/4")
on the table saw
and put one maple and one imbullia (sp ?)
and clamped the form with the two

which immediately broke both strips

so back to the drawing board
after cleaning up all the glue everywhere

now i made a sled for my surface sander
with a stop on the end and ran the strips one by one (very lightly)
flipping and turning over and over








till i had them to 1/16" thick
(i had to hold them down on the end
and in the middle as they wanted to rise up and bow )

so back to the mold again
( the pony clamps were nowhere near the pressure needed 
so i got the 3/4" pipe clamps)
and two by two glued them together
as the wood was dry it creaked and groaned
but taking my time it worked ok
(maybe the glue moisture helped them bend some)
and just added two more each time
to the original ones after clean up
(lot's of waiting for glue)









did this till i ran out of stock
which was at about 1" wide









now i took it to the bandsaw
and re-sawed the piece into 3 parts
and glued them together too









well now i used a different sled with a thicker stop
and sanded (the same as the other one) till it was 1/8" thick









and glued it to the inner top piece of curly maple
from here it was just a matter of trimming it to fit the rabbets on the box 
(and getting it lined up right as i had made it over-sized to begin with)

one problem i have always had with sealed box glue-ups
is cleaning up the dried glue in the inside corners
so this time i tried a new approach i had read about
i waxed the pieces inside before the glue-up
(making sure to not get any wax where the glue would be)

turns out it worked pretty good
it was still there inside but did come loose without
ripping up wood with it or discoloring the corners
after all was said and done some BLO and wax
and cut the top and clean inside
and do the hinges (surface mount stop hinges)
as the parts were only 1/4" thick 
(i bought brass screws from #1 to #5 years ago
from 1/4" to 5/8" just for all these odd hardware pieces
and different wall thicknesses)

thanks for checking this out

be safe !


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## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


Very nice David.
Thank you.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


Kool blog David. Another trade secret is out ;-)


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


Holy cow that's is the way to NOT give up. Way to get it done David. 
Did steaming the pieces ever come into play?


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


yup 'the secret is out' alright bob

bigger is easier by far
imagine what martyn (britboxmaker)
goes thru

his boxes are all small too

dave - i though of soaking them 
and putting them in the microwave first
but was afraid of what the water might do
to such small pieces and the shrinking 
after it was in the box
and didn't want to mix colors in the glue-up
from bleeding across the glue


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


Pretty clever David…...like how you stuck with it and got-r-done. I have to give this a whirl some time…...good blog.


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## KOVA (Nov 21, 2011)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


*BIEN HECHO CARPINTERO DE 68 PARA 69 :-D*


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


gracias carpintero de 51

pero te equivocaste
tengo 67
y voy para los 68
voy a seguir en este plan
hasta los 25

JAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJA !


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## KOVA (Nov 21, 2011)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


*QUÉ VIEJITO MENTIROSO JAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJA
PERO YO HASTA EL 3-11-12, TENGO 50 AÑOS *


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


sera que los dos
somos mentirosos ?

puede ser posible
pero lo dudo

el viejo
en el espejo
no me miente


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## KOVA (Nov 21, 2011)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


*TE ENVIÉ UNA SOLICITUD DE AMISTAD EN FACEBOOK 
DALE, ACEPTAME AHORA ASÍ CHATEAMOS ;-D*


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


Again with the superb information on a fairly difficult technique… made simple..


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


Sometimes I have difficulty following some of the tutorials (am I obtuse??)... this one is easy to understand and looks great!
Thanks, David.


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## scrollgirl (May 28, 2010)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


This looks killer David! Wonderful tutorial! 

Sheila


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


Very cool. This and the previous technique are really something to remember for possible application to some project in the future.


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## jap (Oct 10, 2012)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


nice


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## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


Looks good David. This is the same technique that I used on the pie box, just not as many strips…..


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## majuvla (Jul 20, 2010)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


Nice 'how to' post,thanks.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


Sweet.
Sometimes you just need bigger clamps. And determination.

Nice post too,
Steve


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## NateMeadows (May 11, 2012)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


That is awesome David!!! Great work!

Nate


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


thank you all
for these nice comments
i certainly appreciate them

*ellen* - you don't appear obtuse to me
young and slim as ever


----------



## REK (Aug 30, 2009)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


I was wondering how you made that top with out really thinking about it. It should have been obvious to me . 
Thanks David, they are really beautiful boxes.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


thanks bob

if you save your nickles 
you can think about it too


----------



## Tangle (Jul 21, 2007)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


NOw that's plumb neat, Patron. Hay muy bueno, amigo.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


hi thos

i was just looking thru your blog site
getting to know you better

tough times

cowboy up buddy

it's whats for dinner


----------



## sedcokid (Jul 19, 2008)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


Great tutorial David!!

Thanks for Sharing


----------



## justoneofme (Aug 11, 2011)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


Looks like you had lots of 'technical fun' in masterminding these cute boxes. Great work David!


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


thanks elaine

seems like i spend more time
siting in the boat 
eating bologna sandwiches

that catching and eating fish


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


Nice tutorial: simple enough that even I could follow it. There is a LOT of time and effort in that little box! Guess that's why it was everyone's favorite.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


thanks andy

there is more to come
boys and girls

all diferent


----------



## lumberdustjohn (Sep 24, 2009)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip.
Your detailed posting is fantastic.

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


Amazing David.
You are the wood magician.
Always such a pleasure to learn from you.
I have been busy lately, but try to get back on track now.
Best thoughts my friend,
Mads


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

patron said:


> *wavy wood build in small scale*
> 
> from my recent project post
> 
> ...


A very CLEVER way of putting the wave together…
... I shoulda known… LOL

COOL…

Thank you.

*BTW,*

*Ellen…* you are NOT Obtuse… You're A-Cutie… LOL


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

*horizontal curve top box*

for this box here










for dark woods
tape the edge
to see the pencil line









bandsaw on one side
then parallel that on the other
(just one side for the bottom)









router a rabbet 
on the inside edges
(i used a 1/4" set back bit)









top and bottom
ready for the sides









the sides in place
and a rabbet to glue to









the ends were rabbeted into the front and back
and their tops beveled to match
the sides first cut shorter
and the rabbet cut down
so it flows with the front and back curve
for a design overhang there

that's about it
any questions just ask

thank you all


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


Thank you very much!

Quite a process…

COOL…


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


happy to oblige* joe*

enjoy


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


you are a cleaver one ,thanks David as Joe said quite a process


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


the hip bone is connected to the elbow somehow

we just have to figure out how
to get it thru our heads

mistakes do allot of that
and perseverance


----------



## REK (Aug 30, 2009)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


Nice work david…the design has an eastern look to it.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


that was my thought too *bob*
like pagoda roof look


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


David I love it when you tell all your secrets.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


sure beats writing it all down *dave*
you notice some newbies
don't understand 
the woodworking lingo yet


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


Again you made it look a LOT easier than it really is (at least for amateurs like me). I think you and Martyn have the same 'out there' design gene.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


ah .... the good old days

when getting out of the genes
meant something

now it means 
getting out the eyeglasses
to see whats going on


----------



## scrollgirl (May 28, 2010)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


This is truly outstanding! And what a beautiful result! I love seeing this come together David! Thanks so much for taking the time to share with us. 

Sheila


----------



## sedcokid (Jul 19, 2008)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


Thanks David for showing us how you created this beautiful box! I look forward to trying this on one of my projects soon!


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


You've found the perfect wave, nicely done, David.


----------



## KOVA (Nov 21, 2011)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


*TE PASASTE A LAS CURVAS DE LAS OLAS CON TOTAL ÉXITO!!!!!!
RRRRRRRRRRRRRRREEEECONNTRRRRRRRRRRRAMAESTRAAAAAAAAZZZZOOOOOOOOOOO*


----------



## Roger Clark aka Rex (Dec 30, 2008)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


You da man


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


WOW !

somebody loves me !


----------



## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


somebody loved you so much, Patron, that it took me 4 tries to get the spam message off this page.. sheesh! It just wouldn't go away.


----------



## Bagtown (Mar 9, 2008)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


We grew up eating spam.
Mom used to dress it up with mustard and brown sugar.
It didn't last long.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


David,

Did you create that curve using a compass playing with various Radius's?

What Radius did you end up with for this Wave?

1/4 wave + full wave + 1/4 wave = Complete Wave across the top / bottom???

Just curious… seems like when I start thinking about something like this, I go around & round and never end up with a good solution… LOL It LOOKS so simple… but when the rubber hits the road, more difficult than the thought!

What are the dimensions of your box? (I couldn't find where yu said)

Have a nice Merry Christmas…
Enjoy!!

Thank you.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


here you go joe

this was the compass i used
(a pizza tray i found in the cupboard)
try different sizes till one works
with the thickness of the wood


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


LOL… Nice going… Is that Small, Medium, or Large?! LOL


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

patron said:


> *horizontal curve top box*
> 
> for this box here
> 
> ...


I didn't think they did small in the US, Joe, lol.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

*framing tips for shop and house wall builds*

while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
it occurred to me that many here might get some help
or inspiration in the construction side of woodworking

that shop expansion or bathroom addition for instance

as construction has been my trade for going on 50 years now
(shop and cabinet and furniture came later)
here are some things you might find useful
when planning and building these things

this is not a time/life how too book
but what i have learned and seen done
as the quickest and best way to build a decent framed wall system

i recently built a 12' x 40' wall for a new shop
and with LJ's littlecope help (and some union hard hat angels )
http://lumberjocks.com/patron/blog/35867









and went on to build a finishing spray booth up against it in one corner
with a temporary sloped tin roof for rain and snow runoff









well on to the tips 
to start any wall first make the bottom 'plate' of the walls
(for a complete 4 wall building two opposite walls are full length
the other two come up to them butted inside
and need to be laid out from the full outside corner main wall included too
or the sheeting will not tie in the outside corner
and replicate each for the top 'plates'
(on cement or for inside bath and kitchen i use pressure treated for the bottom plates)

all framing layouts are from the outside for material coverings ply or sheet goods
or siding use which are sold in 2' lengths so as to conserve on material costs
(interior sheet rock is cheaper and can be cut to fit whatever stud layout is there easier)

lay both top and bottom plates together side by side
and transfer the stud layout together









now for the corners
the best corner is simply two regular studs nailed together
for the primary full length walls both ends
for the secondary ones they just have a single stud on the end
to nail to the primary corner assembly when they are in place
(i use the warped or bowed ones for this as they can straighten each other)









and gives the best inside nailing surface for interior paneling or sheet rock 1 1/2" both ways
and as you can see has a full outside corner too for the sheeting there from both sides









(the old way of nailing blocks between two studs
leaves only 1" of nailing on one side of the corner
and can leave very little nailing if the sheeting isn't laid up right)
and give it a place to nail to with full corners both sides

wall pockets are simply two studs with blocks the width of the intersecting wall
(you can even do this part way up a stud for a future counter or half wall)
nailed together in a 'u' whether it be a 2×4 or up to a 2×12 one
the blocks are the same as the intersecting one in width


















this creates a very nice inside corner again with full nailing both ways
(for outside walls this is the time to insulate here)
or you will nave 'cold corners' in the rooms later
i went to get my saved insulation but my dog buddy
had trashed everything i had looking for mice
(i will drill a hoe thru the paneling later)
and pour in some styrofoam 'peanuts' to make up for it


















headers for windows and doors
again using the twisted or bowed ones
a 'trimmer' is cut to the height needed for the bottom of the header to rest on
and transfers any weight from the roof to the trimmers 
which are nailed to the studs both sides of the opening
(remember to increase the header length by the double thickness of the trimmers)
so the opening is the 'rough in' size of the window or door
(i add 1/2" to the rough size for any out of square in the opening
so the door or window can be plumb and level)

the headers need to be roughly wide enough to span the width of the opening
say 2×6 for up to 4' of opening width
and i make blocks to spread them to the wall thickness
(like 2 1/2" for a 2×6 stud width - 1 1/2" x 2 x + 2 1/2" = 5 1/2" )
i have made them with three 2×6's and a 1/2" spacer
but it wastes wood and they can get heavy


















many make the mistake of toe nailing the 'cripples' or 'jack' shorter studs 
(over the header to the top plate)
thru the edge into the header this can split then 
i toe nail up from the header into the bottom of them on the side i can
and when the wall is up
go thru the walls and toe nail the other side the same

to help speed things up all of these 'assemblies' are made first
from any warped or bowed lumber and then are ready for their place in the wall where needed
the header and stud/trimmers are done as a unit to 
if they need to be moved later (surprising how many housewife's don't like where a door or window is
after they are up and nailed in (even though they loved the plans at first)
moving a whole assembly is just a matter of cutting the unit top and bottom with a sawzall
with a metal blade and moving the whole thing to a more desired spot
rather than taking the whole thing apart with crowbars and hammers ruining most of the lumber
then just toe nailing the whole thing thru the sides of the studs back into the plates

even though i had a full shop 20' away all this work was done on sawhorses right on the floor 
next to the work with skill saws and construction tools and air framing nailer

for all my cross cutting l use a large speed square and a skil worm drive left side '77' saw
and simply make a mark on the front edge of the wood
and holding the square from the back and the board together
run the saw against the edge of the offset square so the blade cuts right on the line
all the ends are square then and all the drops are too
walking back and forth to the shop and letting the fly's and wind in there is just to much trouble 
and takes to much time (i did make the header blocks and some simple cuts on the table saw
but could have used a job site saw or the skil saw for that outside to (i was just to lazy to bother with that)









all layout for framing is from the outside corner both way as i said before
and the sheeting needs to be from that corner too leaving a 'v' there
so as not to offset the paneling edge on the center of all studs

laying out for stud centers

the tape is hooked to the wall end (outside corner)
in both directions
and the desired stud spacing (here it is 16") is marked 3/4" to either side of the 16" mark
so the sheeting will land in the center of the stud and not to it's edge (common mistake)



























for pockets they need not be in sequence with stud layout
but the other studs still want to be in sequence for the paneling









for window and door framing again they can be placed wherever needed
but the 'cripples' (the short ones over the header and under the sill (for a window)
still need to be in sequence with the stud layout
this header shown is not a standard header
but just a flat 2×6 as the wall is non-bearing and the window is narrow
but the cripple over it is in sequence with the stud layout









wall placement
i move the framed wall to a snap line on the floor that will be the inside of the bottom plate
and toe nail it at a 45* angle down to the floor there before paneling it (if applicable)
standing the wall up is safer and easier then
as the toe nails act as a hinge and keep the wall from sliding as it is raised
(i did try to nail blocks once to the floor edge once but while raising it 
the blocks fell off and the wall slipped of the floor
fortunately my brother "joe " was by the window rough in opening
and managed to be in that spot as the wall came crashing back down
he never let me forget that claiming 'back problems' when ever we did that again)









for cement floors the bottom plate needs to be pre-drilled (5/8")
for the anchor bolts (when laying them out in the wet cement
do try and put them in between framing as chiseling for them in stud bottoms is a real pain
and make sure you leave more than just the threads (3/4" extra) up
as the washers and nuts need to have enough thread to work right

and of course you will need to brace the walls once they are up
i put one brace outside the first wall on the end down to the floor outside edge
and the next one over far enough away to lay out the secondary end wall in place
it holds the wall there and is a stop for the secondary wall when it is raised too









for later when sheeting inside
i make a cardboard with a cut-out in it to place on the floor before each stud or framing member
and spray the floor with some black spray can paint so i know where the nailing is till the walls
are paneled and base trimmed till the floor is covered too and finished




































well that about does it for now
i do hope some of you might get something from this
if you are thinking about adding or building a shop or some needed space somewhere

thanks for looking
and please work safe


----------



## REK (Aug 30, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


Good deal David, I enjoyed the read. I sold all my wood working stuff, but kept a few things jig saw, hammer, squares. I need to build a mini shed in front of my drive way before winter….It's a real---pulling the snow blower from the north east corner of the house to the south west corner. I seen Mikes pictures of your area, they were very beautiful pictures.


----------



## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


David very good
It is great to share your knowledge
You have much to share
Jamie


----------



## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


Thanks Mr. David. Lot's of useful information. I worked construction my senior year of high school but I was more the guy who ran boards up and down the stairs for the guys who were doing the real work. That and I picked up the trash too. I did learn a little, mostly about roofing however. I'll be saving this one for when I can finally build my shop (25 to 50 years down the road or so….....).


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


thanks guys
always a pleasure to keep the shares going

*bob*
i might be there soon myself
i made a promise to sell my tools
when i find my attention drifting
and before i have an accident
from them


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


Very good David!

I could have used this back in about 1980… LOL

GOOD JOB… It's nice to see how an expert does it…

Thank you.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


looks really good david, sure makes me itch for building again, i was blessed to be able to build my shop and my house, and my old senco nailer did it all, i loved the framing part, well i loved doing it all, but the framing is always fun, i learned a lot from doing it , and now wish i could do some more, but i will enjoy watching this project as you blog on it, be careful with this building, i know ive been tempted before to try and do to much…thanks for the blog…and you take care amigo…


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


you got that right *joe*

i'm a real *ex* pert


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


thanks* grizz*

maybe a shed someday
if you don't use up all that outside wood you got
laying in the open


----------



## Bricofleur (Aug 28, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


Spray paint the floor at each stud location? Awesome, quick and fool proof! Thanks David.

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


hi* serge*

that is much easier than measuring over from the corner
and subtracting the wall thickness
or messing with stud finders
and shooting nails into the hollow spaces


----------



## jack1 (May 17, 2007)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


good tips.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


howdyle* jack*

you must be off for the summer now
got any new things in the mix for us


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


Hi David. Thank you for sharing your experience and helpful tips. Lots of useful information here!


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


you got to watch (and maybe help some)
when you re-did your own shop *lenny*

maybe next time you will be able to save some money
by doing most of the build yourself


----------



## amagineer (Apr 16, 2011)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


David, it is great that you can pass down some of your accumulated knowledge to us. I came away with a better understanding of how to build walls. Thanks again.
-don


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


thanks *don*
you never know when you or someone might need this

all our works
are a series of small details
they shouldn't be secrets
but free for all to use


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


That spraying the studs on the floor is a great idea. Much better than any stud finder ;-))


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


it sure is *bob*
i got so tired of wasting time and work
especially at the close of a job
when all you want to do is go home


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


Nice work, David.

It's nice to see people work "smart"

Lee


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


Great info for someone planning a build David. It's fun to see the difference between the way you build there compared to how we build her. It' fun watching your shop progress too.


----------



## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


Great tips and a great building going up. Now you can make some of those "David Art Works" again.
Ellen


----------



## sgmdwk (Apr 10, 2013)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


A great refresher on some things and some great tips, too. Thanks for posting this.


----------



## widdle (Mar 10, 2010)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


Good stuff…Prefer beefier outside corners, 3 studs,and full nailing at channels..And use the scraps for blocks at corners,doors and windows etc


----------



## littlecope (Oct 23, 2008)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


I wasn't there for the framing, just for the sheathing and raising
It looks like Hard Work! Glad I wasn't there for that… 

Seriously, I had a lot of fun working with Brother David…
It's always better when your working with someone who knows his business!
I was lucky enough to have all of these things explained and pointed out, in person, from the Maestro himself…
But I'm glad you went over it again here David, it was a lot to absorb in such a short time!


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


thanks *lee*
i like watching smart people working too
.
hi *mike*
i cut and screwed on one board today
i'm in the fast lane now
.
that's the plane* ellen*
hope to do that soon
.
glad you like it *dave*
add any you might have too
.
to each his own *widdle*
so long as it works
that's the main thing
.
sure was good having you here *michael*
i'm still digesting some of the things we talked about too
thanks again for your help
on all levels


----------



## bluekingfisher (Mar 30, 2010)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


Very useful tuturial David, you can't beat experience and although I lack it in this case the next best thing is to have the assistance from someone with 50 years worth. I believe your advice would give me enough confidence to tackle a job such as this on my own.

I have however tackled smaller framing jobs although I have always had trouble with roof framing in particular, setting birds mouth joints, what is the first joint to cut, ridge or birds mouth. When I cut the ridge angle first then the BM the RC then comes up short of meeting the ridge board. This relates to a normal pitched roof arrangement.

Also, at some point I intend to build a shop of anout 22 - 24' wide would you recommend factory purchased tressles supports or could I make my own, if so would I need a central ground supoprt pillarto prevent sag.

Thanks for taking the time to write the article.

David


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


thanks *david*

i prefer trusses for a couple of reasons myself

1- they are 'engineered' -the truss place must have an engineer draw the configuration
based on your own needs - you send in the bearing points where they will rest
(in your example 22' to 24' to the outside of walls) and the pitch or rise you want
and whether you want free span or they will also rest on intermediate bearing walls 
(and those places along the truss) and any overhang you want)
i have had a series of trusses made that spanned 30' then changed to the same top pitch and dimensions
the others that went with them rested on a wall and cantilevered out 12' over a porch
both of these were identical except the web triangulation in them
and neither had any posts or beams to hold them up just the two outside bearing walls
the roof sheeting and metal roofing was the same length and the work there was straight forwards

they can make trusses in any type you like even 'cathedral' for an inside slope for a middle higher ceiling

the nice thing about them
is they are delivered right to the job all banded together
and depending on the height of the building are light enough to put up alone or with a friend
for higher structures
i have rented a crane for the day and thrown a 'roof raising party' for friends and family
everyone gets to do some thing if only tying the straps to them to setting them in place

i had to re-roof a flat roof once and the trusses were 57' overall
we just hand passed them up to the low flat roof
with the tall guys in the middle and on the outer end
they just need to be kept relatively straight when on their side for this
with everyone working in unison till they are up flat there
then put the first one and brace it plumb (i mark them all on the ground first on one end
so they are straight in line when set and the ridge is not wavering back and forth later
that mark is set to the wall top to keep them all in-line for flat and even sheeting

you want to have some 1×4 ready to tie them across the tops together with the braced one
in the proper spacing (this can just be tacked on temporarily till the sheeting holds them in place later)
before any sheeting the tails need to be cut straight together for the sub-fascia to be straight
and for the first course of sheeting to be in-line
this is done by marking both end tails (the over-hanging part) and a snap line across the rest from these two marks and cut with a skil saw or jig saw or even a hand saw from a stable ladder
(the tails are usually left running just for this so you can have whatever overhang you like
the tails are then cut from a ladder to square or the angle needed (if applicable)

i like to hash mark the top edge of the sheeting at the 2' mark 
and move the truss back and forth to tack it on them there this keeps then straight as you panel to the ridge or top edge (for shed type roof)

the advantage for me in using trusses
is they are cheap compared to standard single rafter roofing methods
and require much less work to set
and you don't have to worry about any loads or spans
as they can make them any bearing your area may need (like 5' of snow)

for this shop i am building here mine will span 30' 
and unless i can come up with the money all at once for them
i may just send my specks to the truss company for a 'bid'
and then make a drawing on the shop floor of that truss they design
and screw blocks to hold all the rails and web parts in place there
and make them 1 by 1 with plywood or metal mending plates to hold the joints together
and raise them one by one over a period of time as i can afford that

best of luck with your new shop
i do hope this has helped some


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


Thanks for the great tips, David. You sure are a skilled carpenter and a fine teacher. Your shop is coming along great.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


thanks* charles*

almost sealed in the spray booth
will do another 'shop along' for that one
and an insulated utility door build too
very easy to build


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

patron said:


> *framing tips for shop and house wall builds*
> 
> while building my new shop wall and a spray booth
> it occurred to me that many here might get some help
> ...


very exciting david. Ohhh, it's fun when something like this comes together. Wow!


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

*easy utility doors - this one insulated*

thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
for closets or sheds (or whatever)
like these i made for the new spray booth i am building
from straight 2×4's and some 7/16" OSB (wafferwood)









as the booth is not enclosed by the ongoing shop build yet
i need it to be insulated too
from summer heat and winter cold
so i put 1 1/2" of sheet insulation 
in between two OSB panels
(whatever you might have will work too
especially if they only have one panel)

the frames for any one is dado-ed (they could be rabbeted edges too)
the thickness of whatever material you are using

for single panel just one dado
and the 2×4's can be on edge
making them thinner for say a standard lock and handle
for insulated two dado's
(for this you might have to invent some handle and locking type
or do a cut-out in the thicker door
with a thinner block to attach to
for a standard handle










the tops of the stiles (sides up and down)
are notched over at least past the depth of the panels









and the rails (across top and bottom)
are just square cross-cut to the length needed 
to make the door as wide as you want
(for a mid-rail dado the same
just do the panel dado on both sides)

and cut your panels the space there plus the dado depth by two
(i usually do a depth like 1/2" so just add 1" 
to whatever the inner width and length is for the panels
in that inside frame size)

for the corner 'joinery' i just glue and screw them together
with long deck screws
setting the heads deep enough
to clear any trimming if needed on the edges when fitting
to the casing
(you could do any joinery if desired here
just account for any extra length in the rails)









to keep the wind and bugs out
and for winter sealing on old doors
(everyone needs them after those foam tape seals don't work
or the aluminum finned ones with the little bead of rubber quit working)
i make re-trofit 1×2's with a 1/8" grove (1/8" in from the edge)









and insert those folded foam and vinyl ones 
you see in the box stores
they have a finned barb that holds in a 1/8" x 7/16" deep grove









just sand the edge of the saw kerf slightly
as the sharp corner can catch the vinyl and make it 'pucker' when inserted









cut them to fit the casing and with the door closed 
they aren't mitered
as they fold together with no gaps in the corners
i make a temp block to mark with
the width of the stock i use and add 5'16" 
for the weatherstrip itself folded 
running the block and marking the inside edge to the casing jamb
and placing the trim there to that line
i screw them in place as i have found nails just work loose
from time and tide over the years
and they too can be removed if the door opening calls for that extra width 
for moving furniture or tools thru the opening









the advantage of these weatherstrips is they can be removed or replaced as needed
for any painting or re-finishing work needed without having them in the way 
and getting paint or finish on them










this is a quick and cheap way to close that doorway
to traffic or just temporary
till you get the dream door installed

thanks for looking

have a safe build


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


really nice build here david, all of its right on…and i like the the whole jam, with butter and …oooppss wrong jam, the door jamb and weather seals are spot on….now onto the pancakes, with jam….


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


hmmm
pancakes
might need to make some for dinner tonight

great idea grizz


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


Those look like a great "utilitarian" paneled door. I will remember these should the need arise.

It is great that you take the time to "pass on the knowledge", by doing these tutorials. They are packed with great ideas and insights.

THANKS, for taking the time to educate a moron like me!!!


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


hey *son*
glad you remember where it comes from
i am the village idiot here
(it helps when i go to town
as i can communicate better 
with the locals)


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## amagineer (Apr 16, 2011)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


Thanks David, your knowledge is of great use to me. I will keep this stored away for the future.
-don


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


Thanks David, I need to build new doors for my dove house as my last one warped beyond all belief. This should be a much better design. Treated lumber/exterior ply with some good quality paint?


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


Looks nice…

I don't see any door knobs… just temporary Nails for now?

Looking GOOD!

Thank you.


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## littlecope (Oct 23, 2008)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


Doors on… check…
How are the lights coming? Did you get the rest of the fixtures in? Switches? Wall plugs?
And what about the Exhaust Fan… and the Air Conditioner??
Has the painting begun on the interior???


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


glad to be able to help *don*
.

i'm good with everything but the PT frame *andy*
that stuff is still green (not just the color)
and unless it is held securely (like for framing for a deck)
it can dry and twist and change as it goes thru the weather
this is a border i did for the front of my deck ramp
this board was straight and true when placed
here it is after a couple of years 









michael couldn't believe it either 
when he was here
i will replace it with redwood soon
go with that and you should be lovey - dovey lol
.
no knobs yet *joe* 
just some twist wood holders so far
.
hold your horses there *michael*
doing the best i can there
almost ready for the next part of the build blog
got frustrated last night
and came in and watched 'dumb and dumber'
to chill out


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


Great tutorial David. Always something useful to learn from them.


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## bluekingfisher (Mar 30, 2010)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


As always, excellent tutorial David, simple enough in design, which can often be overlooked when trying to build something for yourself.

Thanks again for the advice.


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


Neat… you always have the best tutorials. And… they are practical too!
Glad to see everything coming along.
Ellen


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


thanks *mike*
as you well know
learning at our age
can sometimes take longer 
than doing
.
you got that right *blue*
we can and do over think many things
making them hard to get done sometimes
.
thanks again *ellen*
when the chips are down 
and money and time are short
got to use what we can find
to do the job

they can always be re-done later
in a better way


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## littlecope (Oct 23, 2008)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


Yeah, well… Okay…
Do what you want, you're going to do it anyway…
Just do the best you can… BUT DON'T TAKE ALL DAY!! LOL


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


that's good of you *michael*

ever since you left
i have had to do all my work
myself


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


Redwood makes sense and I think I may have just about enough. I've had those same experiences with PT.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


redwood was the wood of choice for all the gingerbread trim
on the old victorian houses

it doesn't rot
(don't know about the slash white wood)
and takes paint very well

i did read that the trim carpenters died ten years before the framers did
from the toxic saw dust (nobody used dust masks back then)
don't worry you would need to work 8 hours a day 
for 50 years with it to have that happen


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


great idea and yet so simple and right in front of us all the time

Thanks


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


thanks *norman*

it saves time and money
until you get back around to a better one

i don't expect these to last forever
unless they might be inside


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## jack1 (May 17, 2007)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


A good build.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


hi *jack*

you off for the summer now
or just as off as usual lol


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## studie (Oct 14, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


Great info! (pancakes) I built a door from roughcut cedar planks but had to use a ply core to keep from sagging. (pancakes) The inspector loved it but said it may not have the r value to pass code. After he showed the office(pancakes)a picture of it they(pancakes)said the 2" of cedar had enough r(pancakes)value to pass(pancakes)code. Th(pancakes)anks for the teacher in you!


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


well *pancakes* to you too *studie*

glad you passed the code


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## KOVA (Nov 21, 2011)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


*VAS MUY BIEN VIEJITO!!!!!
GRACIAS POR INSPIRARNOS Y ENSEÑARNOS TUS TRUCOS 
ACÁ TE ENVÍO UNA MANERA DE CERRAR UNA PUERTA SIN TENER QUE
IR A LA TIENDA DE HERRAJES JAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJA*
http://woodgears.ca/shed/latch.html
Y ÉSTA OTRA: http://woodgears.ca/wood_hardware/doorknobs.html


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


What is this "pancakes" stuff? I'm lost here…

I don't see anyone cooking any pancakes…


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


pues ensenalo entonces *kova*
no hay mejor tiempo
como ahora
.

grizz started pancakes in the first comment *joe*
i'm not sure what studie is referring to either
but we all like pancakes


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


I had blueberry pancakes this morning!

YUMMY…

... and I ate them with the grain not against the grain…
... went down nice & smooth…

I like pancakes too…

I think mine were R1… LOL


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## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


Moving right along on the new shop.
Thanks for taking me along for the ride.
Keep at it.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


*PANCAKES…...YE HAWWWWWWWWWWWWWW*


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


Pancakes: Pro or Con….
There is no waffling!!!


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


OH NOOOOOOOOÒ THE WAFFLE MAN HAS INVADED THE PANCAKES….lets smear him in butter and flip him around, and he just might think about coming into our town….yuk yuk yuk…....the riddler strikes again…..


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## mrcando (Aug 23, 2009)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


Thanks, David

I will definitely make use of your idea with the seals on my Frankendoor double door unit I will be building out of standard single metal clad door units. I worry that I may get warpage here in Tennessee from exposure to rain and humidity if I used any material for the doors except metal.


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## rhonan (Oct 16, 2014)

patron said:


> *easy utility doors - this one insulated*
> 
> thought some of you might like to know a simple way to make utility doors
> for closets or sheds (or whatever)
> ...


This is mostly they use in prefab type of houses.. this is exactly the door type that I got recently at http://caldwells.com/door-shop. So light and good to use.


----------

