# Tools



## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

*TS3650 and RS1000*

Snagged A Ridgid TS3650 table saw and a Ridgid RS1000 radial arm saw last night.
A BIG thanks to BOTIETRUCK for telling me about the listing on Craigs List.
It was an hour and a half drive down to Kill Devil Hill to look at it, but we hopped in the Excursion to look at the table saw and made it an evening (and half a night by the end of everything.) Got there about 7p.m., did the talking and ended up getting the RAS as well. 
It's AMAZING what you can get in the back of a Ford Excursion. We took the legs off the TS, slid the table, with wings, rails, and motor up behind the front drivers seat, then put the RAS in the back floor with the table upbolted but the legs still on, just slid the legs up under the extension of the TS, slid all the other pieces in including an 8 foot table extension for the RAS, closed up all the doors and headed home. 
Got home after 10p.m. and went to bed.
More about Sunday morning in the next post.


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

*Craftsman 6x48 / 9 inch belt sander, model 103.0803*

I got this off a craigslist add a few years ago.









It's old school with oil bath bearings.









And tracking adjusters on both sides of the idler roller.









The disk sander table has a really terrible angle adjuster, a screw wedge, but it also has two support arms that help lock the table in position.









It has worked well for me although the belt has a tendency to drift.
The problem was pretty bad until the rubber sleeve on the idler roller disintegrated due to dry rot.
I decided to replace it with pieces of an old 3×21 belt sander belt that had come apart.









That has reduced the belt drift quite a bit, probably because the gap acts as a self-center.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

PASs said:


> *Craftsman 6x48 / 9 inch belt sander, model 103.0803*
> 
> I got this off a craigslist add a few years ago.
> 
> ...


I have seen these machines, they hold up very well. I wonder if a hose manufacture would be able to make and/or direct you to a good place to obtain one


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

PASs said:


> *Craftsman 6x48 / 9 inch belt sander, model 103.0803*
> 
> I got this off a craigslist add a few years ago.
> 
> ...


Norm, 
Thanks for the suggestion.
The sanding belt works great.
I miss-identified the roller in the initial post as the idler roller.
It was actually the drive roller that failed (see photos.)
When the idle roller dies I'm going to replace it with sander belt as well.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

PASs said:


> *Craftsman 6x48 / 9 inch belt sander, model 103.0803*
> 
> I got this off a craigslist add a few years ago.
> 
> ...


Looks like a pretty solid piece of machinery. I have a disk sander about 3 or 4 years old and the table adjustment isn't that great on that one either, so I think you've gotten a good tool there Pete.


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

PASs said:


> *Craftsman 6x48 / 9 inch belt sander, model 103.0803*
> 
> I got this off a craigslist add a few years ago.
> 
> ...


Thanks Stefang,
If my research is correct this was made in the '40s.


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## FarmerintheWoods (Mar 3, 2017)

PASs said:


> *Craftsman 6x48 / 9 inch belt sander, model 103.0803*
> 
> I got this off a craigslist add a few years ago.
> 
> ...


PASs, your machine is a dead ringer for mine, except for the blue color. Mine is a Sears & Roebuck (aka Craftsman) model 103-0803. I have a belt drift problem that started suddenly after many hours of operation.

I found the owner/operator manual and parts list here: https://www.manualslib.com/download/497423/Craftsman-103-0803.html

It was free, lots of places charge for these things. Trouble is, they recommend lubrication but don't say where the lube goes in. Is it under the capscrews that sit at 45 degrees?


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

PASs said:


> *Craftsman 6x48 / 9 inch belt sander, model 103.0803*
> 
> I got this off a craigslist add a few years ago.
> 
> ...


FarmerintheWoods. If you look at the second and third pictures you can see a couple of plugs with knurled tops. Unscrew those and put a couple drops of oil in the holes.


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## fredu52 (Feb 14, 2020)

PASs said:


> *Craftsman 6x48 / 9 inch belt sander, model 103.0803*
> 
> I got this off a craigslist add a few years ago.
> 
> ...


PASs, did you use a glue to keep the belt pieces on the roller? Have you tried using rubber?
Just got one of these and I need to refurbish it for my use. It's a sturdy beast.

-Fred, "I ain't buildin' a piano."


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

PASs said:


> *Craftsman 6x48 / 9 inch belt sander, model 103.0803*
> 
> I got this off a craigslist add a few years ago.
> 
> ...


FRED52, I did use glue. I think it was liquid nails.


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## BrassNSawdust (May 19, 2020)

PASs said:


> *Craftsman 6x48 / 9 inch belt sander, model 103.0803*
> 
> I got this off a craigslist add a few years ago.
> 
> ...


I have an old Craftsman model 103.0803 also. My wife's uncle gave it to me about 20 years ago. I've replaced the motor a couple of times over the years and have the motor AND sander mounted on a board on top of an old microwave cabinet (mounted it years ago and haven't found the need to change that since).

I'd like to know if anyone knows how/why the belt rollers drift a lot. The belt still tracks true, but there's an awful lot of play in the rollers.


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

PASs said:


> *Craftsman 6x48 / 9 inch belt sander, model 103.0803*
> 
> I got this off a craigslist add a few years ago.
> 
> ...


BrassNSawdust, I'd remove the belts (sanding and driving) and see if there is any slop in the bearings.
Mine are bronze sleeve bearings and they wear out over time.
If you have some "rattle" in the bearings I'd say time for some new ones.


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## BrassNSawdust (May 19, 2020)

PASs said:


> *Craftsman 6x48 / 9 inch belt sander, model 103.0803*
> 
> I got this off a craigslist add a few years ago.
> 
> ...


I have an old Craftsman model 103.0803 also. My wife's uncle gave it to me about 20 years ago. I've replaced the motor a couple of times over the years and have the motor AND sander mounted on a board on top of an old microwave cabinet (mounted it years ago and haven't found the need to change that since). The table was removed while I was adding a new sanding disk. I've added a hook-and-loop (hook side) to the disk to make changes a bit easier.

I'd like to know if anyone knows how/why the belt rollers drift a lot. The belt still tracks true, but there's an awful lot of play in the rollers.


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## sawdustmaker1961 (Dec 19, 2020)

PASs said:


> *Craftsman 6x48 / 9 inch belt sander, model 103.0803*
> 
> I got this off a craigslist add a few years ago.
> 
> ...


My Father in law passed away, God rest his soul and I became caretaker for a Craftsman 103.0803 6" belt sander. Not sure when it was manufactured. Looking to put a 1/3 or 1/2 hp motor on it and see how she does. Mine doesn't have the disk but the shaft is plenty long enough to put one on, I have some pictures that would help me ask a few questions if someone would be so kind to tell me how to post pictures???


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## BrassNSawdust (May 19, 2020)

PASs said:


> *Craftsman 6x48 / 9 inch belt sander, model 103.0803*
> 
> I got this off a craigslist add a few years ago.
> 
> ...


Select the icon at the bottom of your posting labeled "img"

From there you will be prompted to select an image from your phone or computer that will be attached


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## JL22 (Dec 24, 2021)

PASs said:


> *Craftsman 6x48 / 9 inch belt sander, model 103.0803*
> 
> I got this off a craigslist add a few years ago.
> 
> ...


Does anyone know where I can purchase Part No. 19062 for Craftsman model 103.0803 which is the sanding belt table fence? See photo 1 - fence sits behind sanding disk.
Also does anyone have a good source for purchasing sanding disks and what is the recommended method for attaching them to the metal disk?


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

*Grinding and polishing station*

I have a thing for filing cabinets. I have 19 (nineteen) in my shop.
I get them for free or dirt cheap off Craig's List. And they are all high quality (Hon or equivalent.)
A couple weeks ago I decided to consolidate my two grinders on separate stations into one master station.
My main grinder was set on a rolling tool stand. It has the lathe sharpening setup underneath.









The second grinder is a cheapo for general purpose grinding.









The goal was to mount them back-to-back in the (futile) hope that I could use the sharpening system on either side.

I decided to use a single 2-drawer cabinet. It looked like it was big enough for what I wanted.









I disassembled the lathe sharpening setup and placed the two grinders on the cabinet just to make sure there was enough room, and to see how the wheels lined up (see failed lathe sharpening goal above.)









They lined up well enough so I started the cut-and-fit assembly (a.k.a. no plans required, make it up as you go.)
I knew I was going to make a plywood top so I could hang the lathe sharpening attachments off the end.
I did some eyeballing and decided on the size I wanted and whacked up a piece of cheap Chinese plywood I got for free from my daughter-in-law's shop. Note the table saw outfeed table I finally got around to making (it worked GREAT!)









I knew I wanted to be able to roll it around so I went looking (in the filing cabinets) for the casters I get when I can (Craigslist.) I found some that I felt would do the job. When I flipped the filing cabinet over I found it was an open-bottom design, and it had corner braces with holes in them. I decided to just bolt the wheels through the holes with some washers in the hope it would be sturdy enough (it wasn't.)









I didn't have any lock washers and didn't want to use up my loctite so I went with the shade-tree loctite.









Since the corner supports weren't extremely heavy duty I decided to break the inside edge to stiffen them up.
Nothing does the job like a monkey wrench.








Followed with a little ball peening.









Wheels on and ready to roll!









I flipped the beast back over and got to work laying out the topside components.
I decided to double up on the plywood to cut down on any vibration.









Got both grinders mounted back-to-back with the lathe sharpening system under the primary grinder (too long a reach to be effective on the back-side grinder but that wasn't a requirement anyway.) Then drilled holes along the back to hang the sharpening attachments.









Sharpening depth jig in place.









Primary sharpening system ready to roll.









Just not long enough to work from the back side grinder.









I was feeling so proud of myself I closed everything up and started to roll the whole assembly up the ramp into the garage.









FAIL!!! When the wheels hit the ramp the support bent right back under.









So, I muscled the whole thing on the work table to put a plywood bottom on.









I made the bottom a little longer in case I wanted to put a foot on it when I roll it around and up the ramp.









Hope you enjoy.
Appreciate any comments/critiques.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

PASs said:


> *Grinding and polishing station*
> 
> I have a thing for filing cabinets. I have 19 (nineteen) in my shop.
> I get them for free or dirt cheap off Craig's List. And they are all high quality (Hon or equivalent.)
> ...


Very good use of an old filing cabinet!

*COOL…*

Nice work!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

PASs said:


> *Grinding and polishing station*
> 
> I have a thing for filing cabinets. I have 19 (nineteen) in my shop.
> I get them for free or dirt cheap off Craig's List. And they are all high quality (Hon or equivalent.)
> ...


Bending the steel braces in the corners was very resourceful of you Pete, even if it didn't work out in the end because of the ramp. Great use for the old filing cabinet too.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

PASs said:


> *Grinding and polishing station*
> 
> I have a thing for filing cabinets. I have 19 (nineteen) in my shop.
> I get them for free or dirt cheap off Craig's List. And they are all high quality (Hon or equivalent.)
> ...


What a fantastic, simple, and most importantly, affordable way to get quick storage and a mobil station. Thnx for posting. I like simple and affordable.


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

*Table saw outfeed table*

I got a Ridgid 3550 table saw a few years ago off Craig's List.
I like the saw, but I've wanted to do an outfeed table.
Since the saw is on rollers I couldn't go with anything too big.
Also the saw is shoe-horned into it's storage spot in the garage, so size was a consideration. And I wanted the fold-down to cover the motor to stop me from snagging on things rolling it in and out of the shop.









I also wanted to use just materials I already had on hand (read scraps and cutoffs.)
After eyeballing, reading the forums, and checking youtube I decided to go with a two part fold-down design.
I wanted a short piece for supporting moderate sized pieces, but with a fold-up section to provide support for longer/bigger cuts.
After looking at the way the saw was build I decided to run supports out either side of the saw.
This was actually quite handy because the cast iron top and wings provided a good alignment surface, and the saw frame had holes in it already for bolting everything on.









The angle adjustment with it's mounting screws was the only obstacle on the right side.









The support for the short table was a couple of pieces of plywood bolted to either side of the saw frame.









The support arms were long enough that the fold-down would hang behind the saw motor.
And the short table was gapped to allow the rip fence to track without rubbing.









I rabbitted a 2×4 for support of the short extension and to put the hinges on for the fold down.









The bottom of the extension was cheap plywood and was also 3/4 inch lower than the table so I put some 3/4 inch cabinet grade plywood on top of that for a better surface. Glued and screwed with some clamps thrown in for good measure.









I also wanted the fold-down to be removeable with the idea of a larger outfeed in case I needed it.
So I dug through the door parts bin and found a couple of door hinges with removable hinge pins.









I went through several head-scratching moments trying to figure out the best way to route the extension slot for the miter fence. 









In the end I ended up with a moderately sized outfeed table at zero cost that has done the job the couple of times I've used it. The shorter part is actually enough support for most of my sawing.









I still need to install a support leg for the fold-up part, but a roller stand works well for now.

Comments and critiques are always welcomed


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

PASs said:


> *Table saw outfeed table*
> 
> I got a Ridgid 3550 table saw a few years ago off Craig's List.
> I like the saw, but I've wanted to do an outfeed table.
> ...


Looks good Pete. I like the drop leaf design. Great space saver.


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## cbfodalo (Mar 1, 2014)

PASs said:


> *Table saw outfeed table*
> 
> I got a Ridgid 3550 table saw a few years ago off Craig's List.
> I like the saw, but I've wanted to do an outfeed table.
> ...


Great job, looks effective. I have an Hitachi, c10fl, I am going to steal your design, and probable stop with just a 12" outfeed. I have some portable outfeed supports I use when ripping full sheets or long boards, the 12" stationary one might be enough for me…


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

PASs said:


> *Table saw outfeed table*
> 
> I got a Ridgid 3550 table saw a few years ago off Craig's List.
> I like the saw, but I've wanted to do an outfeed table.
> ...


*Very COOL outfeed extension table…

You did a great job on it…*

I like your use of plain ole *Door Hinges!* They are rugged and do a very good job!

Thank you for sharing!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

PASs said:


> *Table saw outfeed table*
> 
> I got a Ridgid 3550 table saw a few years ago off Craig's List.
> I like the saw, but I've wanted to do an outfeed table.
> ...


Pete,
The logistics of moving your saw in and out is the same as mine so I was most interested in your extension table.

It certainly looks the part, so I thought I should do the same, however when I checked out the space there is too much other 'stuff" there.

So if I did the same I would not be able to get my saw back in as its a shared area with custom made boxes for electrical equipment that are stored under side of the table overhangs.

Have a look:









I crawled about to see what "junk" was there also and found this, dusted it off and thought you may be interested, its me about 25 or 30 YO!









Anyway enough of the things I cannot do anymore, so I have been buying some swandown mops and learning how to polish wood after seeing your results.

This is my effort today, ...its getting there but see cannot see my face in it yet!


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

PASs said:


> *Table saw outfeed table*
> 
> I got a Ridgid 3550 table saw a few years ago off Craig's List.
> I like the saw, but I've wanted to do an outfeed table.
> ...


Rob, in order of mention in your comment. ?.
My saw goes in its slot sideways (end first) so the fold-down isn't an issue.
But I think all is not lost, if you use door hinges or something else that lets you remove the fold-down part then you can keep it somewhere else until you need it. I have a 4 foot and an 8 foot additqion for my RAS that I haven't ever used, but they are in the back corner if I ever do. BTW I thought MY shop was crowded. That looks like a good LJ thread in itself!

Second, so you used to jump out of perfectly good airplanes….that answers questions I didn't even know I had about you. But you're posting so I guess you made it down to earth well enough every time.

Third, have fun with the buffing. Each type of wood responds differently, especially the open grains. Most of my work gets a thin coat of shellac to seal it before I start the polishing process. Experimentation builds experience.

Good luck, and have fun.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

PASs said:


> *Table saw outfeed table*
> 
> I got a Ridgid 3550 table saw a few years ago off Craig's List.
> I like the saw, but I've wanted to do an outfeed table.
> ...


Very neat idea Pete. I like the hinged top. Short and/or long, you got it right there.


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

*Radial Arm Saw base from filing cabinets.*

Yes something else involving filing cabinets.
I have an old Craftsman RAS that I can't even sell for $75 on Craigslist, so I keep it for cutting dados for card and phone holders. It has the standard spayed leg stand where I kept a couple of empty tool boxes, but not really anything else.









I got two 2-drawer cabinets a few weeks ago for $5 each, about half what I'm willing to pay for good ones.
As they were a matched pair I had the opportunity to join them together to make a base for my old Craftsman RAS.









First I rolled everything out of the way so I could work in the shop under the chain hoist so I didn't have to wrestle the saw around too much. Then I put the two cabinets side by side next to the saw to get a visual on how it would look.









The final height was going to be almost the same as the initial height so everything was looking good.
I knew I wanted to join the two cabinets together so I pulled the drawers and slides out and laid the two cabinets on their sides.









I have a BUNCH of 1/8 inch rivets so I figured about a dozen of them would do the job holding the cabinets together. I used 1/8 inch aluminum rivet washers to make sure the back sides couldn't pull out too easily.

















I also made sure to put rivets along the edges where there was a double thickness of sheet metal.

That was the easy part. 
I scooted the RAS under the hoist and lifted it up until the legs were just off the floor.









I started unbolting the mounting bolts from underneath but realized I'd have to take the table off anyway to drill the mounting holes in the filing cabinets, so I popped the tables off to finish removing the table.









I got the stand off with no problems and moved the twinned up cabinets underneath the RAS.









I centered the RAS where I wanted it on the cabinet tops and drilled 5/16" holes for the 1/4" mounting bolts off the old stand. All went well.









It was a pain getting the bolts on the back of the RAS bolted in (one man operation) but a ratchet wrench worked well as an arm extension to hold things in place.









Got the drawers back in place, table top reattached, and everything scooted back into position.









Best of all, no leftover bolts (mechanics nightmare.)!!!









The base is just as sturdy as the stand was and although the footprint is a few inches more narrow the addition of 50 pounds of turning blanks and other stuff in the drawers dropped the center of gravity down quite a bit. Also, since this is a special purpose saw it never sees wood that sticks out past the end of the table.

On a side note, the drawers now hold:
Gloves in various sizes and shapes
Knee and elbow pads for crawling and kneeling.
Turning blanks for handles in wood I actually paid money for
A dozen or so tubes of caulk in different flavors plus a half dozen caulk guns.

The original stand didn't have wheels and I didn't put any on the cabinets. If I decide I want it more mobile later I can put some rollers on the back side.

Comments/critiques/suggestions always welcome.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

PASs said:


> *Radial Arm Saw base from filing cabinets.*
> 
> Yes something else involving filing cabinets.
> I have an old Craftsman RAS that I can't even sell for $75 on Craigslist, so I keep it for cutting dados for card and phone holders. It has the standard spayed leg stand where I kept a couple of empty tool boxes, but not really anything else.
> ...


Hey!

Those filing cabinets worked GREAT for that deluxe Saw Stand!

YES!

Are you going to eventually get some wheels on it?
... looks like it could be pretty heavy…

Great JOB!


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## nonickswood (Nov 12, 2011)

PASs said:


> *Radial Arm Saw base from filing cabinets.*
> 
> Yes something else involving filing cabinets.
> I have an old Craftsman RAS that I can't even sell for $75 on Craigslist, so I keep it for cutting dados for card and phone holders. It has the standard spayed leg stand where I kept a couple of empty tool boxes, but not really anything else.
> ...


That's pretty Slick! Pete, much more versatile than the old stand.
Great use for those filing cabinets.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

PASs said:


> *Radial Arm Saw base from filing cabinets.*
> 
> Yes something else involving filing cabinets.
> I have an old Craftsman RAS that I can't even sell for $75 on Craigslist, so I keep it for cutting dados for card and phone holders. It has the standard spayed leg stand where I kept a couple of empty tool boxes, but not really anything else.
> ...


Great idea Pete. You get a lot of extra storage with that solution. I bet it won't be long before you mount wheels on it!


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

PASs said:


> *Radial Arm Saw base from filing cabinets.*
> 
> Yes something else involving filing cabinets.
> I have an old Craftsman RAS that I can't even sell for $75 on Craigslist, so I keep it for cutting dados for card and phone holders. It has the standard spayed leg stand where I kept a couple of empty tool boxes, but not really anything else.
> ...


Mike, you're right, I just have to get the right one.
I had an all-plate steel lathe stand that weighed about 200 pounds by itself so I put non-swivel casters on the side plate of one end. If I lifted the other end up a couple of inches it engaged those rollers. Worked pretty good so I might do that on the back of the RAS. I just don't want to add any height to it as both the RASs (I have two) are each a couple of inches higher than the main workbench between them.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

PASs said:


> *Radial Arm Saw base from filing cabinets.*
> 
> Yes something else involving filing cabinets.
> I have an old Craftsman RAS that I can't even sell for $75 on Craigslist, so I keep it for cutting dados for card and phone holders. It has the standard spayed leg stand where I kept a couple of empty tool boxes, but not really anything else.
> ...


Nice one Pete. And the bonus of no extra parts. lol


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