# Vintage Craftsman Sabre Saw



## DannyBoy (Oct 26, 2007)

I know there has to be an old timer out there that can help a young buck like me out on this one…

I picked up about a month ago an old all metal (steel, I think) Craftsman sabre/jig saw at a garage sale (Model: 315.26750; 3.0 amps). Motor runs well and it seems to be in good order. The (for lack of a better word) collet where the blade attaches appears to be missing a screw. At the moment there is only one screw there but two holes. So, I can attach a blade (one that has a hole to be screwed in), but where it seems there would be another place to hold it in the blade is completely loose.

Any suggestions?

~Danny Boy


----------



## Max (Sep 13, 2006)

Danny,

I checked on Sears Parts Direct online and found it has a blade holder with screws. Here is the link for your saw. 
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/retrieveModelActionHome!retrieve.action?modelNumber=315.26750&pop=flush#diagram

The key number for the part you want is number 78

It says you need to call them for availability. I don't know of any other place to find what you need. Hope they have one in stock.


----------



## DannyBoy (Oct 26, 2007)

Dude! That's sweet. I went looking all over for this (even the sears website) and could never get it to come up. Thanks a huge lot!


----------



## DaveHerron (Jan 21, 2008)

I own one of those vintage craftsman saber saws and I'm thinking mine only has one screw. I'll check it tonight and let you know. I replaced mine with a bosch a couple of years ago. I was amazed how much the vibration was reduced when cutting with the bosch.


----------



## saddlesore (Oct 17, 2007)

Too bad, I just trashed one of like that a few months ago I had inherited. All bright steel body, worked for a liong time, but started arcing like the insulation was breaking down.


----------



## DannyBoy (Oct 26, 2007)

I'm planning on refurbishing this one to be useful around the shop. If I can get it in general working order, I'll be taking it apart and checking pieces, oiling gears, and making sure the electronics are all good in it. I love the look of it. Tom, that bright steel body is what I originally liked.

It probably won't be the last one I ever buy, but I betting on it being a work horse for some of the harder jobs. (Yeah, I'm crazy.)

~Danny Boy


----------



## saddlesore (Oct 17, 2007)

I like the look too, but it zapped my son enough to numb his arm, didn't have a proper ground. Should have saved it for it's sentimental value, but that's why my garage look so cluttered,


----------



## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

I think some of the old saws had two screws and you had to tighten both sides to keep the blade tight. You don't want the screw going through the hole in the blade. It is meant to clamp the blade in the saw.


----------



## grumpycarp (Feb 23, 2008)

I hate the orange box but last Sunday they had a Bosch 1587 jiggy with a r.o. sander thrown in for like 120.00$ Both triple grounded and the jig uses tool free blade changing.


----------



## rollei35guy (Jan 18, 2009)

I found one of these saws at a thrift store and when I searched I found this:

http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml85/85004.html

It was recalled for a faulty replacement circuit board.


----------



## jimbo2 (Oct 27, 2012)

Like Danny Boy, I have a Craftsman Multi Speed Scroller Saw Model 315.26710 that I bought new in 1968. It has never been repaired by Sears. A lot of oil leaked out of it about 20 years ago, and I never replaced the oil and have no idea how to go about doing it. Does anybody know if I am in danger of getting an electrical shock, and how do I go about replacing the oil. I used the saw recently, and it seemed to run ok. My saw has two screws holding the blade tight and neither go through the blade.


----------



## JIMBO54 (Oct 6, 2013)

Have the same saw.Mine has 1 pin on top and a screw to hold blade into place.I am having trouble finding blades.Can anyone help??


----------



## olddave (Dec 10, 2013)

Any universal replacement blade(non "T" top) will work. The "T" top mainly fit BOSCH saws .Does anyone have a broken or "junk" 315.17280 saw. I need the top bushing KEY #1, but I will buy the entire saw.


----------



## jimbo2 (Oct 27, 2012)

DannyBoy, do you have any information on how much and what type of oil to add to your Sears saw?


----------



## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I got this exact same saw alone with several other things from my grandpa workshop. Finally got a chance to tear it down and try to figure out what it needed to work again, the armature assembly threw a couple bars off the commutator and the assembly is no longer available, neither are the brushes. The brushes aren't nearly as big a deal as I have more than a few that I could fabricate to make fit this saw, but the armature no longer available is a real bummer. Would anyone happen to have one?


----------



## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Something similar to wheel bearing grease should be used in the gear case; not oil; too thin.


----------



## jimbo2 (Oct 27, 2012)

Thanks Mr. Ron. I filled the gear box up with wheel bearing grease as you said, and the saw runs like a top. The gears seemed ok, no teeth missing, etc. I hope it lasts another 45 years for someone or about 10 years for me. Also, I found the edge quide and a plastic tube meant to hold blades. The box has pictures of the blade teeth and part numbers for the blades.


----------



## Jimmymongul (Jan 12, 2012)

Craftsman Sabre Saw Model: 31526700- Need New Switch/ Orientation of Gears in Gear box.

I just got this one at a flea market. It worked until just today and I pulled it apart and cleaned the gearbox and the switch with connection cleaner. The switch still does not work. Does anyone know where I could find another switch for this model? Also, I wanted to know what is the orientation that the two gears in the gear box should have to each other or does it matter? I see that the top gear moves a sliding piece up and down the saw bar while the lower gear actually moves the saw bar but I do not want to screw it up. I notice there is a spot on one of the gears where the tooth is gone at that one spot. Was that put there on purpose to allow repair people to line the gears up right or is that just wear? This model has an all steel body and a plastic handle.

Thanks for any help anyone can give.


----------



## jimbo2 (Oct 27, 2012)

I have the saw and will be glad to take it apart and look at the parts you are asking about, but I cannot do it until later in the week. If you want photos please tell me where to post them or send them. My saw worked about three years ago but a gasket leaks where the drive goes in and out of the gear box. If you or Dannyboy, oldDave, or bigblockyeti wants the saw and will pay the shipping cost, it is yours. In the event more than one person asks for it, we will figure out some way to decide who gets it-oldest, lives closet to Atlanta, etc. Mailing the saw will not be cheap even if I do the packing. I bought the saw new on an impulse as I was walking through a Sears store in 1968 and saw it on display. More than anything else, I used it to trim Christmas trees to fit my stand. My son made an Adirondack chair in 1972 with it. That's when it leaked the oil, grease?


----------



## Jimmymongul (Jan 12, 2012)

Jimbo2

Later in the week is fine. All I need is to confirm the orientation on the gears is and I would like to have the just the hi-low speed switch out of it if that works. It looks like you could load the pictures as an adjunct to your post at photobucket.


----------



## Knothead62 (Apr 17, 2010)

Take the saw to a hardware store or big box store. I have a huge inventory of screws and found two that fit mine. The are fine thread. My saw belonged to my late father-in-law. It is more than likely a zinc die cast body; cast iron or steel would weigh a ton. The two screws hold the blade in with side pressure and also in the back to keep it in place. Congrats on the find. BTW, mine is over 50 years old and still runs great.


----------



## jimbo2 (Oct 27, 2012)

jimmymongul,

I cannot make photobucket work for me so I am sending the photos I made. I apologize to the rest of you for wasting your time looking at photos you probably don't care about.


----------



## Jimmymongul (Jan 12, 2012)

Jimbo2

Thanks a million for the pictures. Could I buy the switch off you if it works?


----------



## jimbo2 (Oct 27, 2012)

I hope the photos help. You cannot tell from my photograph, but I did not see any missing teeth. As you stated the top sliding piece is not fixed to the rod like the bottom one. I did not think to try moving the gears, but it appears they are 180 degrees out or when the bottom gear pin is at the very bottom, the top gear pin is at the very top since they turn in opposite directions. I think the handle on my saw is aluminum painted black. The handle is scratched in a couple of places and it is aluminum color there. I have decided to keep the saw. There is nothing to be gained by taking a part from a working saw to rebuild another saw. Good luck finding a switch.


----------



## Jimmymongul (Jan 12, 2012)

I understand. Thanks again


----------



## JTGF30 (May 27, 2018)

Hey DannyBoy, I have two of these saws one has a model number of 315.6635, but it is basically the exact same as your model. Both my saws have two set screws, a set screw in the side of the blade mount and also one in the front of the blade mount, both screws are the same size.

Also if you or anyone else has an owner's manual on these saws would you mind sending me a copy of it? If you can let me know and i will send you my email address. Thanks a lot and I hope this is of some help.


----------



## Fresch (Feb 21, 2013)

> I like the look too, but it zapped my son enough to numb his arm, didn t have a proper ground. Should have saved it for it s sentimental value, but that s why my garage look so cluttered,
> 
> - TomK


Turn the plug over.


----------



## db3 (Nov 7, 2021)

Danny,
The top hole should have a dowel pin in it. These are no longer available as a part but a good hardware store should have one that diameter but it may need to be shortened. That will require one secure it and grind it to length. Or find another saw and use it for parts. There may be a kit to convert to the newer type holder, but I doubt it as I haven't seen any with one. Craftsman Tools was purchased by Stanley Black and Decker, and one of their crew might be able to give you the size of that pin, and see if any other tool has such a part.


----------

