# Wet Stones, Where do I start? (Hand Plane)



## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

The only wet stones i've used before were for pocket knives, that being said what type of reasonably priced wet stone(s) would you recommend for maintaining a Hand Plane Blade?.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

If I were you I would start with the Scary Sharp method using wet-dry sand paper. 
It's a much lower investment and a decent return.
Then as you gain knowledge, try other methods.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

We've done a couple of blogs on just that topic.
Mine:
http://lumberjocks.com/BigRedKnothead/blog/34842
Mauricios:
http://lumberjocks.com/mochoa/blog/35131

IMO, I'd go with oil stones. Buy good ones and you'll have them the rest of your life. Hope it helps, Red


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Are you talking water stones or oil stones?


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## ScottStewart (Jul 24, 2012)

I've been researching this for the past couple of months…

I think part of the reason that my hand plane and I don't get along so well is that I don't have it sharp enough.

After a lot of fits and turns, I think I want to use waterstones. Best place to get them seems to be toolsfromjapan.com. If you don't have a honing guide, you will need that, and then something to flatten your waterstones

My list:
Shapton Professional 1k, 5k, 8k stones
Veritas Mkii honing giude
DMT duo sharp stone for flattening waterstones

It's more money than other options, but I am yet to hear people with the shapton pro's badmouth them.


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## Benvolio (Feb 10, 2013)

if you want a budget start, then bear in mind a polished sample tile of marble/granite from home depot type shop with some shop bought fine grit sand paper will set you up for a decent point. That's how I began before I got my waterstones.

It's the same system as Scarey sharp but you're not paying for the brand.

oh, and one other thing, while you're in the mood for googling this, you might want to remember most people spell it `whet` stone not `wet` stone - no biggie, but I guess it's one of those words you hear more than you read so might not have known

ben


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## sikrap (Mar 15, 2009)

If you only have the one plane, sandpaper is the way to go. If you decide you want waterstones, contact Stu at Tool From Japan and get the Sigma set. It will consist of 1000, 6000 and 13000 grit stones. They were including an Atoma 400 diamond plate for flattening stones as part of the set. I bought that set last year and it was over $300, but the dollar has recovered quite a bit since than and I understand the set is considerably less now.


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## camps764 (Dec 9, 2011)

BigRedKnothead did a great write up on sharpening methods.

Highly recommend checking it out.


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

Nice blog Dan. Mauricio covered diamond stones a bit but I would be curious to hear people's experience with the extra extra fine DMT stones. They are listed as 3 micron which is supposedly equivalent to 8000 grit, but the reviews I have read mention they take a very long time to break in compared to larger grit diamond stones. People describe them as more like a 4-6000 stone at first.


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## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

I finally got sick of the scary sharp method and picked up the cheap 3 dollar stone from HF which is good for getting rid of nicks and heavier damage in the blade and a 1000/6000 grit water stone. To go with it I also picked up a strop and green stuff. 
Paul Sellers has a great video for sharpening planes and chisels. He recommends eze-lap diamond stones but I found using the cheap stone with water for initial clean up and then the water stone and strop with his technique that my planes irons were sharper faster then I got them using the scary sharp method and the 60.00 total I have between the 2 stones wasn't that big an investment. Leaves a highly reflective surface on the cutting edge.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

Thanks for all the replies, I am currently using waterroof sandpaper with some oil. I have a Stanley No.4 and No 220
And I will be adding to this collection in the near future.

The deal at tools from Japan sounds great but between my two planes I don't even have $80 invested, however once i start adding more planes and some new Hock blades I may look into that.

to answer Bondo's question: water or oil stones?..... I honestly don't know, which do you guys like better?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I love Hock Blades. If you are going to buy blades, they are the ones to buy. The question however, why are you replacing blades? Of the couple hundred planes I've restored, I've only found 2 bad enough they needed replacing. A Hock blade will do nothing for a well tuned plane with an original iron (assuming its vintage).

I do often buy Hock blades for my infills though.

I hate waterstones. I just don't like the mess, and I know I would leave them in my shop to freeze. I use DMT's and oil stones. Well actually, just an oil stone. For the occasional flattening I use sand paper.


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## bonobo (Oct 8, 2012)

Wether or not you decide on water stones, oil stones or diamond plates (with stropping), I'd recommend choosing the DMT coarse plate over a grinding wheel.

Since switching to the Paul Seller's diamond stone method, I'm sharpening a lot faster and a LOT more often. Before that, I'd used the methods outlined in the Krenov books - a hand crank grinder with a LV tool rest and the LV entry level water stone set (later on, with an eclipse guide). I was happy with the results but found it very slow work to establish the primary bevel on the grindstone because I was so paranoid about overheating the blade. I tended to put off grinding as long as possible.

I've found the DMT coarse diamond plate to be a much easier method for establishing the general bevel angle. The diamond plates won't dish like like water stones and in 4 months I've overhauled all the edges in my smallish-sized collection, lapped the sole of a badly rusted block plane, taken the "lands" down on all my chisels, sharpened my combination plane cutters, etc…I've noticed that the 3 plates are getting stained with rust but still perform really well.


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## MrFid (Mar 9, 2013)

Also, I'd use a honing guide for sure, no matter if you go with sandpaper or stones. The Veritas MK.II is what I use, and although it is pricey, it will save you frustration and blades in the long run. Also, it is WAY more accurate than any other honing guise I have used before. I plan on posting a review on here soon of that system.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Climate seems to be a factor for some people. Waterstones
cannot be allowed to freeze while wet. If you live in a 
humid climate where flash rust is a problem, you may be
happier with oil.

I use water stones. I live in an arid climate and don't have
much of a problem with flash rust.

Most sharpening jigs will lead to uneven wear of waterstones.
I sharpen freehand and seldom have to flatten my stones.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Ok, I was confused. When you said wet stones I couldn't figure if you were talking water stones or whet stones which are oil stones. I have moved clearly into the water stone camp, currently my system includes a coarse diamond stone too. I have a 1000 grit King stone and a 4000 grit Norton and a 8000 grit Norton. Lots of guys get good results w/ oil stones, so I am not knocking them at all. There are some drawbacks to water stones, because you can't let them freeze. For me that means I have to store them inside, instead of out in my shop. I like them though because they are fast to put on a good edge on and to flatten backs.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

Ya see? It's a matter of preference. That's why my blog attempted to give you the pluses and minuses of each. Only I didn't realize so many people used diamond stones or the worksharp. It's tough to get an "inexpensive" but quality setup. The key is to choose wisely for your needs to begin with….so you won't be spending more $ trying something else….then something else.


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## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

Hi,

My current cheap method, which has evolved now consists of this:

1. Grinding: 80 grit sand-paper on granite to get the basic shape/bevel I want.

2. Sharpening: $13, Harbourfreigh 4-sided Diamond hone Block http://www.harborfreight.com/4-sided-diamond-hone-block-92867.html ...I go through all 4 grits pretty fast, just to remove the marks from the rough sand-paper…200, 300, 400, 600.

3. Honing: 2-sided Waterstone ($32). 1000 & 6000 grits…http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/combinationwaterstonemedium10006000grit.aspx

After this, my Irons are good enough for me and leave a nice finish.

I'm pretty happy with this system for now…except that waterstones are a bit messy…but this stone flattens up very easily…It's pretty soft, which might be why it's only $32).


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## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

If you decide to go with DMT plates, use a 50/50 mixture of simple green and water for lubricant.
Since I learned that "trick" I've had no rust on the plates.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

BTW - The proper spelling is WHET stone, not WET stone.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Dollar store glass cleaner works well on dmt's as well.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

I just tried out the Scary sharp method with oil and got a really nice edge on my plane blades and chisels.

I will keep an eye out for some stones in the future and since I am in a humid climate I will probably go with Oil stones.

Thanks for all the help LJ'ers


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## stevenmadden (Dec 10, 2009)

*jordanp*: Since you specifically referenced "wet stones", I thought I would chime in. I use Norton water stones (1,000, 4,000, and 8,000 grit) which I purchased from Lie-Nielsen (http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=WS). I use the DMT Dia-Flat Diamond Coated Lapping Plate to keep them flat, which I also purchased from Lie-Nielsen (http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=DMT-DiaFlat). This system works great for me. Hope that helps.

Steven


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Don't forget to pick up a flat stone for using the sand paper scary sharp method. I spent less than $5.00 for a 12×12" Granite tile at HD. This has worked out VERY well. The best part of this is that your "sandpaper" stone stays flat and does not need to be re-flattened periodically , unlike most dedicated stones.

Another idea is to convert a HF 4×36" Belt sander to a tool sharpening station for less than a hundred bucks. I did this mainly for my lathe cutting tools, however, since you can buy this sized belts anywhere from 36-grit to as high as 600-grit. And by converting the sanding disc to a buffing wheel you will have the best sharpening system for the the price. Other competing similar systems run anywhere from $300-$600 or more.

Harbor Freight 4x36 Belt Sander DIY CONVERSION To Belt Sharpening System


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

sorry for the type in the title.

Thanks for all the help and tips, I setup a make shift scary method system last night and after a few minutes i was splitting hairs with my crappy Kobalt Chisels.

Thanks for the tip mike I think I will go have me a look around at HF soon.

I will invest in some stones once I have a more serious collection of hand tools down the road.


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