# Stanley Bailey No 5 Restoration



## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

Just picked this up at a pawn shop for $10 bucks. It appears to be in pretty good condition except the back handle is broken off the top. I plan to start restoring the plane today hopefully, but I would like to get your opinions on what to do with the handle. Should I just taper it off on the top completely create a new handle out of some nice wood.

Let me know what you guys think of the plane. It has APR-19 10 on the plate.
I can also pick up a descent craftsman No3 looks like for $10 bucks too. Is the craftsman worth it? There is nothing wrong with it looks like except a little dirt and rust.

Thanks


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Good looking planes. A good way to salvage the rear tote is to glue a block to the broken area and reshape. $10 is worth it on both of em IMO


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## LukieB (Jan 8, 2012)

I would agree with Chris
Before








After









I used epoxy to glue the block on then belt sanded and rasped the horn back to shape, a little sanding, some trans tint dye, and lacquer. Good as new


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

or make a new one.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Good score on the planes. They both should make nice users.

Lucas: Best tote repair I've ever seen.

Don: Love your new ones.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)




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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

usually, there is not a thing wrong with them Craftsman planes…









This is my little #3 Craftsman, planning some walnut…


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Craftsman were typically made by stanley or sargent. They are good users.


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## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

Thanks guys for the info there. Those are some nice repairs!
I think i'll grab the craftsman no.3 also then. I have already done some light rest removal on the plane, very easy to remove.

Time to go back outside in the garage and restore 

thanks


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

some more help if you need it

http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/25464


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

T13 #5, awesome tool, one of my favorites. Nice score indeed !


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## MagGeorge (Jun 29, 2012)

Saving good one again!


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## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

Just read the article Don, some nice information with screenshots there for us newbies on restoring hand planes. Yeah, when I saw the planes I was thinking woo hoo. He has 3 more, the craftsman no.3 looks like by size, a smaller one with the screw to hold down the blade in front, looks really old sorta and a no 2 or 3 on a wooden base that's in descent shape.

Yep, excited to get these restored and put them to use


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

That Craftsman #3 was made by Sargent. You can tell by the U shaped lateral adjust lever. Totally worth $10.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Ahh the first hit of rust. Youre hooked now brother.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

That's right. The first time you take one of those $10 rust buckets and turn it into a sharp and shiny hunk of iron that's as good or better than brand new stuff selling for 10 or 15 times the price… it's like crack. You just want more!


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## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

I'll be picking the crafstman up then. LOL, yeah it's like an addiction sorta, i'm hooked 
Charlie, you're absolutely correct man. It seems on a lot of things, they were just made better back in the day unlike now. I could be wrong by saying that, but it just appears that way.

I think that i'll get some evapo-rust instead of the electrolasys for the first time around.

Peace guys and thanks!


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## ChuckC (May 13, 2010)

Nice job! I've done electrolysis and evapo-rust on planes and I definitely prefer evapo-rust. When you take it out immediately spray it with WD-40 to prevent flash rust. Good luck!


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## starringemma (Aug 15, 2012)

What makes a Stanley, Bedrock different from a Stanley, Bailey or just a basic Stanley ?

*Free Bonus Questions:*
Why do some plains have the corrugated bottom?
How sharp does a plain have to be to remove the serial numbers from a 1955 Corvette convertible?


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## CplSteel (Jun 22, 2012)

Breakdown and just set up an electrolysis bucket. I found a battery charger at SEARS that works, buy a cheap one because the expensive ones have overload protection (or something) that won't let it run when used for our purposes.

*Question*
-What makes a Stanley, Bedrock different from a Stanley, Bailey?
*Answer* $75 and a different frog

*Question*
-Why do some plains have the corrugated bottom?
*Answer* There was a shortage of metal during WWII so Stanley tried to make the planes with less iron in them, hence the corrugated bottom. That is not true at all. Actually it is supposed to produce less friction because of a reduced surface area or something (it doesn't make a difference)


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## starringemma (Aug 15, 2012)

*CplSteel:*
That's like when they started making upside down ketchup bottles. They thought people would be dumb enough to buy more ketchup if they just put the label on upside down and said it was an improvement.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Emma, read about the bedrock here http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan15.htm.

I like the flat sided bedrocks. I don't think they work any better, but they just look cool.










The bonus questions:
1. nobody really knows, stories range from less metal, less friction to it was a marketing idea that worked.
2. depends, will you use the iron in a plane or hit it with a mallet?


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## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

Do you guys think I should put the body of the plane in the evapo and then paint the inside? Will the evapo hurt the bottom and sides of the plane where I've already made sure it's completely flat?

thanks


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I always put the whole thing in evapo rust. It get the rust out of place you can't see.(inside bolt holes, under the frog base etc) Just 2 notes and one is important.

Make sure the *Whole* thing is submerged. evapo rust will leave an etch at the water line.

Make sure you clean it good before you paint it. I just hose it off with water or wash it with cleaner (i sometime just use penetrating oil for parts not to be painted) before painting.

One other note, evapo rust will leave a blacken film on the metal. A comes right off with a wire brush.

Metal will not rust after its been cleaned with evapo rust like it will with some penetrating oils. If you pull it out and wash it and can't get to it right away just a quick dip to coat it in evapo rust will keep the rust away.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

I only repaint if the japanning is too far gone, or if there's evidence of rust underneath the japanning. Stripping the japanning to bare metal is a last resort, as it's a fair amount of work to get all the old crud off and ready to paint. Evaporust is an acid rust treatment, and shouldn't affect the japanning or the bare metal where you've lapped the sole or sides. But I don't necessarily think you need to do any of that with the plane body.

I would just clean off the body and parts with something like Simple Green and a brush, and at the most apply some clear shellac to the inside of the body to keep the chipped parts from rusting. The other ferrous parts can be put in the Evaporust if they need it (after degreasing!). Then clean them off, give them a quick swipe with some light oil or WD40. I like to use bicycle grease on all the threaded parts before reassembly. Polish up the brass parts so they shine, and you'll have a couple sharp looking planes.


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## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

Here is what it looks like. What would you guys do in this case.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Its a late vintage #5. Its not rare and will be a great user. In this case it'd strip it and paint it, but it would look good left as is once cleaned up.


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## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

Here is what the parts look like after cleaning. Now I'm probably going to clean the body and paint the inside.

Kevin


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

You will need to strip the inside, not just clean it. I wouldn't recommend painting over japanning. Stripping can be a bear without some equipment or good stripper.

Your parts came out great.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Don, what's your method for removing japanning? I've been painting over what was left of it. That works fine in the short term, though I can't testify as to how it will hold up over the long term.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Charlie I have a high tech sand blasting set up. (some sarcasm as you'll see)

http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2012/08/11/the-new-sand-blaster/

I just completed stripped a #7, Including the frog in 20 minutes. Most of that is letting the compressor catch up.

I can do a #4 in 10 minutes.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I might have to give that a try, Don!


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## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

Gonna try and strip the paint off it today if I can get time. I've already cleaned it, but i'm just not satisfied with it though. After cleaning the other parts I have to get the rest of it cleaned and looking good like those 

I have the air compressor, just not the abrasive for the sand blaster though. Either way it's going to be stripper or get some abrasive for the sand blaster. After that i'll get some black paint, what kind would be best the rustoleam (hard enamel) I would think and do 3-4 light coats?

After it's all done i'll post a before/after pic in the forum too.

Thanks a lot guys.

kevin


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

IMHO, the best is Dupli-color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black.


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## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

Thanks Don. I'll see if I can find it then.

Kevin


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

NAPA has it near me.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

I've used Citristrip, and that works pretty well. A course wire wheel and a drill also works, though getting into the nooks and crannies isn't easy. Wear a mask if you're doing this. Japanning is an asphalt derivative.

I use Rustoleum Hammerred Black, as I kind of like the texture. Don't forget to mask off the contact points and plug the screw holes!


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Yeah, that's a real nice look!


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## starringemma (Aug 15, 2012)

*Don W:* Can you reuse the sandblaster sand?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Yes, that's why I have the tub base. I use black beauty. I've used play sand but you need to make sure its dry and you need to screen it.


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## starringemma (Aug 15, 2012)

*Don W:*

Play sand? Like from a child's sand box?
I take a short cut through a rail yard to go to my friend Becca's house. Train engines have a box of silica sand that drizzles sand on the rail when the train is going up hill. Sometimes those boxes leak when the engine is parked for a long time and it leaves a pile of silica sand around the rail. I see an opportunity here for free sandblaster sand! I also see a $45.00 sandblaster in my future!

*ANOTHER EMMA BONUS POST:* 
something I found usefull for new bench plane enthusiests like myself.

*EDIT:*
*Don W:*
Does that sandblaster need an air compressor or is it built in?

*EDIT # 2*
I'm guessing that the brass plane parts shouldn't get sandblasted.


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## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

Got the paint off today and tomorrow will get the remaining rust off.

I too like the idea of sandblasting. Looks like i'm going to have to see how to sandblast 101 soon 

Yep, Shampeon that's a nice looking restore there!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Edit #1, yes you need a good compressor
Edit #2, no don't blast the brass


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## Fishinbo (Jun 11, 2012)

Looking forward to the brand new plane …


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## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

Well here is a preview of the No5. Only one thing i'm upset at though. I've lost the bolt that goes on the back of the frog somewhere in my garage. Everything was together, but somehow it's missing.

I have not totally finished the tote yet. I have fixed the tote and tried to match the colors. I still have a little work on the color before I varnish it though. Figured I would fix the tote instead of making a new one for now.

I have one small issue that I will fix tomorrow on the front of the bed where it says Bailey. I missed a spot. I need to mask off and push 1-2x on the paint to fix that. Noting big, but I have to fix it 

Lemme know what you guys think so far and I'll put the before / after tomorrow in the other forum topic.

Thanks


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Looking good!


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

If you can't find that bolt, let me know. I might have an extra.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

it's well on its way. Nice!!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Frog-Adjusting-Screw-Stanley-Bailey-No-3-8-/180962010009?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a222d2399#ht_2371wt_1159


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## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

Found the bolt. 

Thanks shampeon and don.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

those little suckers can hide pretty well can't they. I've spent my share of time with a flashlight on the floor of my shop crawling around under crap!!! Especially when the buffing wheel (or wire wheel for steel nuts and bolts) decided to fling it across the shop.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Just hurry up and get that plane to work. Lookin' good so far.
BUT WAIT!!! I like the bottoms-up catsup/ketchup bottles.
Bill


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Don: We could probably start a whole topic about how to hold on to parts when you're buffing/brushing them.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

yes Charlie, but it would be a topic full of profanity, so probably best not to go there.


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## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

LOL, yeah those little suckers are hard to find sometimes. What I did was apparently sit the bolt on my burn barrel when I was taking it outside to paint. Man, the times I just lay stuff down in random places is going to drive me nuts, lol.


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## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

Here it is restored. I am going to take better pictures though, just took these with my blackberry. It was fun restoring the no5 and now to put it to use.

I am thankful for all the help guys. Now I have the itch to get another one and restore it and put it to use!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Sweet. I can't wait to see the next one.


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Well done, looks really nice.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Beautiful!


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## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

Thanks guys. Yeah, I can't wait to get my hands on another one to restore.

Kevin


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