# Plywood bins: rabbet or butt joints?



## Bcemail (Jan 3, 2017)

I'm making some basic plywood bins, no shelves or top, just 4 sides and a bottom. They will be about 12" x 12" and maybe 18" tall. They will be holding maybe 20 lbs max and not moved around too much. I was planning on using 1/2" ply as I have leftovers.

I've never used rabbets before but saw them in another project video. For attaching the sides together, would there be much of a benefit of using them over butt joints? I don't have a dado stack, so was either going to do multiple passes on the table saw or use my router table. Not worried about aesthetics, just function.

Either way, for 1/2" ply should I use some kind of piece on the inside of the corners to reinforce? I was thinking that if I'm just going to use glue and brads, I don't need it, but if I need screws I probably would want something more substantial?

Thanks!


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

For projects like that, I always go with rabbets glued and nailed. It makes for a strong joint, it's quick and easy to cut, and assembly is a breeze compared to butt joints. Just how I do it. If I didn't have a dado stack, I might not but I do so I do


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## newwoodbutcher (Aug 6, 2010)

I frequently use rabbets and glue for plywood shop furniture and such 
Never had a problem


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

A rabbet joint is always a little stronger than a butt joint but a little harder to accomplish on 1/2" material. A quick way to cut the rabbet is on the table saw with two passes. One vertical and the second horizontal to remove the section of wood. Just adjust the width of the cut accordingly….vertical woud be 1/2' and the horizontal (flat) would be 3/8.

My personal preference would be finger or box joints cut on the router table (with no dado blades available). With plywood you may need to add a backup sacrificial spacer to reduce any tear out on the back side of the cut.

Glue and brads should be fine and screws will have a problem in plywood. The bottom should keep things square and stable. I like to recess bottoms in a dadoed (rabbet) cut.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> For projects like that, I always go with rabbets glued and nailed. It makes for a strong joint, it s quick and easy to cut, and assembly is a breeze compared to butt joints. Just how I do it. If I didn t have a dado stack, I might not but I do so I do
> 
> - HokieKen


Same here. And if its smaller/simple I won't even break out my dado stack. I'll just make them in the table saw using my aux fence(i usually have one on that 6-8" tall) and just hold them vertically through, something i am comfortable doing, YMMV


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## dbw (Dec 2, 2013)

Rabbets. Glue them and use brads. I have used screws and plugs with plywood but with 1/2" it's gonna be tough. Stick with brads. As far as not having a dado stack: this is the perfect reason to buy one!!! I have the Oshlun and it is very good. Way cheaper than F*d or F***t. I will admit it's faster to use the router/table. I don't believe you need to reinforce.


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## redlee (Apr 11, 2016)

Or just butt together and add a piece inside the corner to screw into.


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## vind (Oct 23, 2014)

http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2014/09/19/the-quarter-quarter-quarter-drawer-system/


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## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

Rabbit helps alignment. Good glue is stronger than the wood. So I glue, brad nailer, clamp.


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## Bcemail (Jan 3, 2017)

Thanks for all the tips. Sounds like I might be trying out rabbets! Always fun to try something new anyway. In general, do just 2 of the sides have rabbets? Say the front and the back, then the 2 sides sit in those? Or do you rabbet all pieces and they sort of lock together?
I do like the idea of buying a dado stack, but my saw can't use them. Although I have seen some box joint blades that I guess will fit on the shorter arbor. Here I was trying to use up some scrap and now I'm tool shopping!


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Rabbets on only one side of each joint is all you should need. What kind of plywood (how many layers)? Generally the cheaper construction/sheathing plywood is a mess with voids, etc. and fasteners work poorly when driven into the sides.

Adding interior corner blocks (glued in) will really beef up the structure and could eliminate the need for rabbets.


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## dbw (Dec 2, 2013)

> Thanks for all the tips. Sounds like I might be trying out rabbets! Always fun to try something new anyway. In general, do just 2 of the sides have rabbets? Say the front and the back, then the 2 sides sit in those? Or do you rabbet all pieces and they sort of lock together?
> I do like the idea of buying a dado stack, but my saw can t use them. Although I have seen some box joint blades that I guess will fit on the shorter arbor. Here I was trying to use up some scrap and now I m tool shopping!
> 
> - Bcemail


There (probably) are numerous videos on youtube showing how to cut rabbets. With and without dado blades. One item which I find invaluable when making rabbets on a table saw is an auxiliary/sacrificial table saw fence. Youtube probably has videos on these as well.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

If you can't use a dado stack, I'd use my router table. If you don't have that, then I'd do it with one vertical and one horizontal pass on the table saw like others suggest.

Just to clarify, I use rabbets because it's quick and easy for me with a dado and because it makes assembly easier because the shoulders act as positive stops and keep everything pretty square. But, if cutting rabbets becomes cumbersome, brace blocks glue in the corners will work just as well structurally. Of course that takes up some interior space which may or may not be an issue for you depending on the intended use.

And yes, you only need to rabbet one piece at each corner. You can do both but I don't know why you would


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Rabbet either the sides or front back. If you can't use a dado blade, one approach is an auxiilary tall fence and run the sides through vertically-but I'll caution this is not something to do unless you've got feather boards and a riving knife.

Butt joint or rabbet, either way you're gluing an edge to a long grain surface, so there's no strength advantage to a rabbet. It will help with alignment and speed up the assembly process.

Personally in your situation I would go with butt joints, screws & plugs. Drill a 1/4" counter sink then use a trim head screw. If you go this route and do a rabbet make is shallow 1/8". You don't even have to mess with glue. They're just storage boxes, after all.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Easiest way, IMO, to cut rabbets is with a rabbet bit on the router. Only setup is choosing the right bearing size and the depth. Of course the plywood will be slightly smaller than the bearing gives you for the width but that won't affect the strength of the joint.


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## Axis39 (Jul 3, 2019)

Rabbits, or rebates, are great, but I gotta say, I was gonna suggest this:


> http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2014/09/19/the-quarter-quarter-quarter-drawer-system/
> 
> - vind


That interlocking 1/4" makes it easier to assemble and clamp, as well as adding some glue surface.

Although, if you've never used rabbits before, I say it's definitely time to start! Since you have a router table, I'd suggest using it to get nice, clean cuts in one pass. Just pick up a decent 1/2" straight bit. Doesn't have to be anything crazy or complicated. But, if you buy one with a bearing on it, you'll be able to use it for templates and stuff later.


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## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

I bet there are as many solutions as forum members, so do some tests and decide how you want to do it. 
I got turned on to the powered resin glue and now almost never grab that bottle of Titebond.

For thin stock or plywood, I really only make the rabbit about one blade deep anyway. It does more to hold things in alignment than extra glue surface. So, one upright pass on the saw with a full kerf blade. Need not even be a flat tooth.

My next project will need about 40 drawers made of most likely 1/4 MDF and 1/8 Masonite so I will need to do some testing for that specific application. I may do a single dovetail in each corner. Maybe box joint, maybe rabbit. Or I my show off and do as many different joints as I can think of.


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## Bcemail (Jan 3, 2017)

Thanks again for all the tips. Sounds like rabbets are something that will come in handy so I'll be glad to try them out. I don't have a rabbeting bit, but I should be able to use one of the straight bits I have, just will take a little more time with setup. Never heard of the powdered glue, but sounds interesting!

The quarter system also is neat looking, I was just worried when he mentioned that it would only work with plywood that is true 1/2". I didn't know that was an option, as I've only used the stuff from the box stores which I'm pretty sure is always undersized.

Robert: for running the board vertically, I think I've seen videos about this. Maybe something that fits over and slides along the fence and my piece can be clamped to this?


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

It doesn't slide. Its an auxilary fence that either clamps or straddles the existing fence. Some straddle the fence, some just clamp to it. Either way you have to build it and be sure it is 90°.

Depends somewhat on the type of fence you have. If its not very wide, you're better to build one that clamps to it.


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## Bcemail (Jan 3, 2017)

> It doesn t slide. Its an auxilary fence that either clamps or straddles the existing fence. Some straddle the fence, some just clamp to it. Either way you have to build it and be sure it is 90°.
> 
> Depends somewhat on the type of fence you have. If its not very wide, you re better to build one that clamps to it.
> 
> - Robert


Oh, OK, then you just hold your piece flush to it? Or do you have something that slides along the fence to keep it flush?


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

As to the lock joints (the QQQ system referenced), you can easily use any thickness plywood, you just need to take the difference into account when setting up for the cuts. Great way to get some strength and self alignment with just a simple saw kerf.


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## vind (Oct 23, 2014)

This is how I make my drawers from 1/2" Baltic Birch. Fast, simple, one set up and strong. No pins or screws just glue. I also don't edge tape the edges and they look great when finished with shellac.



> The quarter system also is neat looking, I was just worried when he mentioned that it would only work with plywood that is true 1/2". I didn t know that was an option, as I ve only used the stuff from the box stores which I m pretty sure is always undersized.
> 
> - Bcemail


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