# 10" vs 12" sliding compound miter saw



## davidmw (Feb 9, 2011)

I've been researching different sliding compound miter saws, and basically narrowed it down to the Bosch 4310 (10") or 5312 (12"). The biggest thing (capacity wise) I want it for is making large cross cuts of rough and finished lumber, and since the cross cutting capacity is basically the same for both, I was planning on getting the 10" version. However, I get get the 5312 refurbished for ~100 less than the 10" version. Anyone have experience with refurb'd tools? Specifically it's from CPO on amazon. Any other thoughts why I might want to spend extra for the 10" version over the 12"?


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

They've both got the same cross-cut capacity but how thick is your lumber? I've never had the nerve to buy a refub'd tool from Amazon. It just never made sense to me to buy something that used to be broken. I may be way off with this, though.


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## davidmw (Feb 9, 2011)

That's part of my dilema, the 4310 will cut through up to 3.625×12", 5312 will do 4.25×12.5". Mostly my issue is whether I'm willing to risk it and buy refurb from amazon.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I'd be inclined to go with the 10" myself. That's a really nice saw from what I understand and I don't see too many 12" around. Good luck!


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

Just FWIW, the cutting height capacity for me is pretty important as well. I use my SCMS for cutting the PVC pipe for my dust collection system, a 10" model just wouldn't do…


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

I'd say go for the 12. In fact I'd strongly recommend a 12 non slider over a 10 slider. This all assumes you have a table saw for wide crosscuts. Just my 2c. Oh, and I've bought a few refurb. tools. No functionality problems to date.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Refurbs can have some advantages, as they've definitely been checked out by a technician…not true of all brand new off the shelf tools. Not all refurbs were defective either…the reasons vary. If the savings make sense and the refurb/recon is from a reputable seller with a warranty, the odds are very good of having a good experience. I've bought several recons and most looked and worked like new and were significantly less.

*My refurb list*:
PC 175 roofing nailer
Milwaukee 5615 router
Hitachi M12VC router
Hitachi WH10DL 10.8v Li impact driver
Hitachi 14.4v Nicad impact driver
Hitachi 12v drill/flashlight
Hitachi belt sander
Makita grinder
Ridgid R4330 planer


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## TheWoodNerd (Aug 30, 2009)

In general, I've found I get a finer cut from 10" saws vs 12". I'm guessing the smaller blade is more stable.

As for cutting 6" pvc, I do it all the time on my 10" Makita. I cut partway in and then rotate the pipe into the blade. If the cutoff is short, I'll do a partial cut, then turn the pipe and clamp the cutoff to the fence to finish the cut.


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## davidmw (Feb 9, 2011)

Thanks for all the input
rance, why do you suggest the non-slider?

What I'll largely be using the saw for is cutting up rough sawn lumber into more manageable sections, I don't exactly like the idea of supporting the end of a 12' piece of wood to cross cut it…

I'm leaning towards the 12" just for the extra capacity and the fact that it's $100 less than the non-refurb 10"


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## cranbrook2 (May 28, 2006)

12" slider is the way to go .


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

I have a dewalt 10" and a Bosch 12" I like hem both.

When I go to a job I usually bring the 10" but invariably I lug the Bosch 12" off the bench at home and bring it simply because it cuts deeper and when you start tilting the saw to cut at an angle the depth is significantly diminished. Also, vertical angle cuts take a longer stroke so those cuts are diminished.

I love my 10" because it is very mobile. But if I was not needing to move it or move it much I'd have a 12" for sure in the shop.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^to all above, if you had the funds for EITHER a refurbed 12" or a brand new 10", would this change your opinion?


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## davidmw (Feb 9, 2011)

As of now I've ordered the 12" refurb, I'll post when I get it on how I like it. I'm still interested in hearing people's thoughts though, keep the discussion going 

EDIT: I'll mostly be leaving it in the garage on a bench, something like this: http://www.shoptours.org/member3/ds-chop-saw.jpg only not as nice looking.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

FYI…12" blades are typically more expensive, and keep in mind that you'll want a blade with a low to negative hook angle…nothing much over +5° or so. Also, I'd suggest using a 1/8" full kerf blade because there's increased chance of deflection due to the larger span of the 12" blade, plus the fact that crosscutting typically needs less power so there's really less incentive to go with a TK blade for crosscutting. Keep your eyes peeled for a sweet blade deal.


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## cabmaker (Sep 16, 2010)

For the bench ? 12 inch. You ll end up using that saw for a lot more than you mentioned.


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## RexMcKinnon (Aug 26, 2009)

I have the bosch 10" and love it. I wanted the 12" first but decided it was too expensive and too big for my situation. Given your situation I would go with the 12" slider refurb. If space is at a premium, a 12" dual bevel non slider would be best. Don't forget the sliders take a lot of space behind the saw. If you are tight a 12" non slider makes a pretty wide cut and you could always flip the board to finish the cut. The dual bevel is important because if you are cutting on an angle and you have to flip the board you will have to bevel to saw to the same angle on the opposite side which you just cut.

The crosscut on a 12" non slider is about 10" I think and I think the Bosh 10" slider I have is about 14". not a huge difference and some people say that non-sliders are more accurate than sliders. Something to think about I guess.

Having said all that, I'm keeping my 10" slider.


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## davidmw (Feb 9, 2011)

For the bench I have a strange little section in my basement that juts out from the rest of the wall by about 20" so I figure that would be a perfect place for the slider to slide into.


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## cranbrook2 (May 28, 2006)

Bertha id still go with a refurbished 12 " over a 10 " anytime .


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^good to hear, John. I might have to reconsider my fear of reburbished tools!


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## DMX512 (Feb 22, 2011)

I looked at re-furbed Hitachi when i was miter saw shopping. Lowes had a new one (12" SDCMS) for 20 bucks more than the re-furb….I went for the new one. I am very pleased with the saw for the money.


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## fge (Sep 8, 2008)

As for refurbished, I've had a few and never one problem.


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## TheWoodNerd (Aug 30, 2009)

I have both a 12" Bosch and a 10" Makita. I ended up putting the 10" in my stationary miter station because it simply makes cleaner cuts. I keep the 12" on a mobile stand and use it now just for construction framing, cutting brick, etc.

In a few weeks, though, I'm picking up a new 10" Festool Kapex … yum!


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

Very little difference is still a difference in cut capabilities. I can not tell you the number of times I have been able to cut ALMOST through with my ten inch. It's especially a problem when I'm doing compund miter cuts. In this case I have to reverse my angle and flip the stock to complete my cut. Ususally because that is such a hassle, if it is a very small amount, I just finish the cut with a hand saw and dress it up on the sander. That kind of defeats the purpose of having a power saw though, don't it? I'd go for the twelve inch.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

Like William my 10" has me cut the reverse more often than I'd like. since I have a 6" jointer I almost always work with 6" stuff in the shop but often glue things up and then the 12" is nice.

And, I have a bosch 12" compound slider. You often hear that because the blade is larger it can flex and give you a less accurate cut. Well, maybe I'm not that precise but I think this and many other brand saws and blades are good and I never see this flexing issue. You have a stationary piece of wood and you are cutting in a vertical line. The flexing seems to be a non issue.


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## TheWoodNerd (Aug 30, 2009)

It's not so much a question of blade flex as it is wobble or shimmy. A 12" blade is simply less rigid than a 10". If you're just cutting 2×4 studs, it doesn't matter.

You need to evaluate your needs. In my case, I rarely have anything that a 10" wouldn't cut but a 12" would. You're generally only talking about a 1/2" or so of extra crosscut ability. Anything that wide, I'll cut with my tracksaw instead.


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

>why do you suggest the non-slider?

Well, I suspect that most folks could get by with a 12" non slider, even though they might not admit to it. I treat my DW715 saw as a precision tool. It stays in the shop. I take other tools to a job site if needed. My contention is that a slider will more easilly get out of alignment, and become less ridgid over time, more so than a non-slider. If you are just whacking 2×4's or making rough cuts, then it doesn't make much difference, get the slider(I see you already did). For rough cuts, you could even use(don't laugh out loud) a chainsaw. I'm not one for spending $500 on a good tool when a $250 one will do just fine.

I think you'll be very happy with your choice.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

deke,

I can attest that the bosch 12" compound slider makes a straight cut and I have to move it once and awhile. It sometimes travels in the back of my pickup truck. I always check it for alignment and so far haven't had to except when I first took it out of the box. I'm sure there are other good brands out there too that will behave the same way.

Interestingly, my 10" dewalt non slider which is what I use less because I don't use it in the shop but move to the jobsite much more than my bosch will get out of alignment often. I always check it after a move and about 50% of the time have to tweak it. No aspersions against Dewalt. That little saw has racked up some miles and it's still kicking. But it's an interesting twist that you'd think would be the other way around.


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## davidmw (Feb 9, 2011)

Oh why didn't I pay for the faster shipping…


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I have a Bosch 12 inch slider and I like it….except for the dust. I have an old 9 inch Rockwell that I still use. I like it too. I think people look at the 9" and say it makes a glass smooth cut but it has a 70 tooth blade. Well the 12 inch with an 80 tooth blade has fewer teeth per inch ourning the perimeter of the blade than the 9 inch. Maybe we are getting off track here. I don't know. My 12 inch make good clean precise cuts. I hardly move it off the cabinet but it makes great cuts there. I did take a job installing some wide crown molding and my 9 inch didn't have the capacity. I eneded up renting a 12 inch Dewalt at the time and later aquired the Bosch. I would go with a Bosch 12 inch anyday. I have also bought some tools from CPO and have had good results and prompt service. no complaints yet.


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## kpo101 (Mar 15, 2011)

I have a Ridgid 12" slider that is bench mounted that weights in at a little over 50 lbs. It is a great saw that i have had for 4-5 years now with no problems in cutting anything i want including 6×6's with a simple flip. Now to get to my little "workhorse" I have a craftsman 7-1/4" slider that weights in at a little over 20lbs and will do just about everything from 8" crown to full 2×8's. It is a saw that i personally think everyone should have especially if you all do any on site work. Getting to 10" vs 12", to me i would have a 14-16" one if they were out there and at a decent price.


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## SteviePete (May 10, 2009)

Just got the 12"Bosch Mechanical slider (no rails) it solves the rear clearance space issue. Cut precise compound miters that were smooth as baby's bottom. Acme Tools had a free stand - lower grade though- that sells alone for $250. I cut mostly dry hardwood-get crosscuts that need only finer sanding (220-320 grit). Will be mounted on a smaller, longer bench with mortiser, sanders and other larger bench tools, bandsaw on the end. Stand will be for work afield.

I've used the Delta 10 for 22 years. Accuracy and finish just OK. Still saw of choice for deer stands, roughing in and processing scrap for smoking wood.
Used and refurb equipment is fine but I have gotten what I paid for. Second divorce sales better than Grand Pa passed away sales. Always run CraigList stuff up to operating temp before falling in love. Check current under several conditions.

This Bosch saw looked the best to me--so I gave myself another retirement present. Tanks for looking.
On Wisconsin!


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

I just think it depends on how you use the saw. For a lot of finish carpentry on site, I would opt for the higher capacity slider. Personally, as somebody who uses it as a true "chop" saw or for smaller crown miters, then my 12" non-sliding Hitachi certainly fits the bill. For wide capacity cross-cuts, I just use the table saw in my shop.

The only time I've really needed more capacity was for wider-taller boards, where the blade guard gets in the way of the cut.

Regardless, for me, my miter saw is probably the saw I could do most without…I can usually find an alternative method for performing the same cuts. I'm somewhat amazed how people can actually have two or three of these things…but again, it just depends on how you use it…I don't have much a need for the saw away from my home.


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## davidmw (Feb 9, 2011)

I've been using the saw a bit this past weekend, and although I haven't really tested it too vigorously, it is a nice machine so far. The included blade is OK, but certainly not great. I'll likely just use it for rough cuts and do my fine work on the table saw with my nice finishing blade.

I'm in the process of building a modular bench that I can use for either the scms, table saw, or planer… pictures will follow eventually.


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## agallant (Jul 1, 2010)

If you get the 10" you will be always wondering what it would be like to have a 12 inch. I say go for the big one!


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

my 2 cents…blade costs on 12" are probably priced about 30-35% higher than their 10" cousins. look at a nice 12" for "fine work" and a mid-priced 10" for "rough work".

as for refurbished, if you look at outfits like ToolKing and see the number of refurbished tools they have for sale, I think it gives you an indication of the quality control from the factory (let's just say it must be less than stellar). I'm more inclined now to LOOK for refurb because the reputable repair outfits seem to do a better job of making sure it is working correctly than the factories (in fairness to the factories, the repair shops have an better idea of a product's flaws since that is indicated on the repair ticket). I avoid the hassle of hauling a new machine to and from the repair shop (for me about a 100 round-trip to drop it off and the same to pick it up) and I don't have loss of the tool while I wait.


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## davidmw (Feb 9, 2011)

I don't think that number of refurbs available really has a lot to do with quality, if so you'd expect to see lots of lower quality tools (ie ryobi, harbor freight, etc) at the refurb places. From what I understand of refurbs, some of them are not even returned due to quality issues. Maybe it worked fine but the buyer wanted something different, or didn't realize that the slide mechanism extended out significantly from the back of the tool. Either way I agree that I like the idea of the product being checked over thoroughly, and potentially even more so than when it first left the factory. I don't think I'd be able to tell that mine's a refurb except that the manual didn't come in a plastic bag and there was some sawdust already in the dust bag.


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## biglarry (Jan 15, 2011)

If I could get a 36" sliding saw I would. But until they make one, I like my 12 " Dewalt. I think the blade quality makes more of a difference than the size.


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

For my two cents I with biglarry. There is nothing more frustrating than almost completing a cut and having to backup and do it again. Has far as the blade flex issue, don't put a skinny blade on your saw. A good quality fat one works well. After all as far as cutting miters goes that is what the saw is made to do. They are called mitersaws for a reason.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

I buy factory refurb all the time and have not been burned a single time. Just recently a Dewalt air compressor, a Freud biscuit joiner, a Bosch jamb saw, and a Craftsman belt/disc sander combo. Two of these came from CPO.

True factory refurbished is as safe as new in my opinion, since the flaw has been fixed and the whole thing is checked out to certify. The repair and inspect crew is probably a better QA team than the factory line inspector and maybe a quick test or two as it goes in the box.

I have a 10" sliding miter saw that i use for everything except large crown, (I use a Dewalt 12" miter saw with crown fences in that case). 10" is lighter, less expensive blades, and usually costs less up front.


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## Akinlabi (Dec 12, 2013)

Been thinking about buying a new 10" compound miter saw model but after reading http://www.woodworkingbank.com/2013/12/everything-you-need-to-know-about-compound-miter-saw.html I now believed that getting a good 12" model would be nice. Anybody here know where I can get a used 12" model?


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