# Small Projects



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Vape pen stand*

As an amputee I have intense phantom pain that only a relief vape can stop. If you lay them on their side all the juice pools on the side instead of at the base of the wick. The vape pens themselves have a small, tippy, footprint that easily falls over even if your hand is steady enough to balance it in the first place.

I took a length of 2×2 select pine and planed the mill marks off it. Then some drill press work and I have a pen stand. I chamfered all the holes and waxed it with Johnson's paste floor wax. 









I try to do a little project every day or so. Being 'the hump with the stump and the pump' and retired means I have to keep busy even if the project is trivial.

M


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Vape pen stand*
> 
> As an amputee I have intense phantom pain that only a relief vape can stop. If you lay them on their side all the juice pools on the side instead of at the base of the wick. The vape pens themselves have a small, tippy, footprint that easily falls over even if your hand is steady enough to balance it in the first place.
> 
> ...


Nice. Seems like the shop that likes the purple heart bowls would want them too. Maybe a smaller one with only one or two slots.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Small Oak Tool Tray*

The better half doesn't always say anything but I know my leaving small hand tools on her coffee table irks her to no end. To preserve the peace I made this little (12" x 8" x 3-1/2") oak tool caddy to toss my stuff in one place instead of being scattered to-hell-and-gone.









I had a couple of 1/4" x 3-1/2" x 36" pieces of store bought (BORG) oak kicking around and this seemed like a good project.

I cut the boards into six 11-3/4" pieces. The bottom is two pieces, the center handle a third, the two long sides a fourth and the short ends and dividers the fifth. The sixth piece is left over for another project.

The sides and ends are middle rips so their height worked out to 1-9/16". I trim ripped all pieces to the same width as there was about 3/32" width variance between the raw boards.

A 1" Forstner bit in the drill press made fast work of drilling the handle and the band saw easily cut the tapers.

The dividers required the the sides, bottoms, and both sides of the middle be dadoed 1/8" x 1/4". Due to symmetry each piece is cut between miter gauge shifts. On a normal miter fence cutting all of the dado perfectly would require a dado set that I don't have. Fortunately the Incra M1000 miter gauge saves the day.

A little light sanding and everything was ready for glue ups. In my urge to conserve materials I'd gotten three 11-3/4" pieces out of a 36" not realizing this would make the overall project 12-1/4"-a @#$%&()! 1/4" *too big* for my 12" clamps! Thankfully I'd just bought another pair of 18" clamps. Good thing too, as I'd previously only had two 18"s and for this I needed three!

M


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Small Oak Tool Tray*
> 
> The better half doesn't always say anything but I know my leaving small hand tools on her coffee table irks her to no end. To preserve the peace I made this little (12" x 8" x 3-1/2") oak tool caddy to toss my stuff in one place instead of being scattered to-hell-and-gone.
> 
> ...


Better watch it *Madm'*... soon *SWMBO* will get you picking up your dirty washing!

Notice no room for the alcohol… guess you don't leave that scattered all over the place.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Cherry Insulin box*

As I diabetic I need vials of insulin, needles and alcohol pads to be handy at all times especially when traveling. This little cherry tote box is 3" x 3" x 7" out of resawn 1/4" stock. It holds two vials of insulin, eight syringes and a good supply of alcohol pads.









I actually made this in 2016 and its held up well. My laser engraver was working then and I engraved the lid to suggest the contents.









The sliding lid has what I like to call a 'perfect' fit. That is, if the lid is closed by gravity, the lid self locks and will not open when inverted.

It is finished with two coats of 50%-50% semigloss poly.

M


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Cherry Insulin box*
> 
> As I diabetic I need vials of insulin, needles and alcohol pads to be handy at all times especially when traveling. This little cherry tote box is 3" x 3" x 7" out of resawn 1/4" stock. It holds two vials of insulin, eight syringes and a good supply of alcohol pads.
> 
> ...


Good to hear your on top of it… and that is a neat little box.

A lasered lid always makes the box stand out. Should try to bring the laser back to life.

I only have type 2, so no need for insulin… however those alcohol thingies sound good.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Short Dog Gate*

The better half grooms our seven (*7!*) dogs and this often requires keeping one or more dogs in or out of the rooms. Our dogs are Shih Tzu's and therefore fairly small.

Sometimes the goal is to keep the dogs in, sometimes to keep them out. Toward that end the gate is both double sided with metal screen, and it is also double hinged. It swings in either direction like a pair of old western saloon doors. 









The screens are stapled on with my air stapler and 3/8×1/2 staples.

There is a dead bolt on top that hard pins the gate so it won't move in either direction. The walls were protected from the hinges or dead bolt from scarring the sheetrock by placing 1×4 x 18" eustucion boards. This made it easy to install to the wall with countersunk 3" screws and then mount the hinges and bolt strike to them. The corners were beveled and the whole piece edge routed for visual interest and to cast a shadow line.

The 2" fixed caster is mounted on a piece of 1×3x3 scrap which is half lapped into the bottom support to prevent sagging.

M


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Short Dog Gate*
> 
> The better half grooms our seven (*7!*) dogs and this often requires keeping one or more dogs in or out of the rooms. Our dogs are Shih Tzu's and therefore fairly small.
> 
> ...


Sorry *Madm'*, some idiot has to say it!

What's a *Shih Tzu's*... *a zoo without animals*


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Tall Dog Gate*

While I love dogs, they need to be kept out of the kitchen. The opening to the kitchen is over 4' wide and needs to be closed off. However a long gate's swing is too much for the confines of the kitchen. I came up with this bifold gate. The metal screen prevents the dogs from pushing thru.









The two sections of the gate are hand mortised for the hinges for a tight, clean join. Each section has a 2" caster to prevent sagging and hinge pullout.









Latching the gate was more of a problem than I anticipated. Initially I used a strong rated cabinet magnetic latch. The dogs beat it.

I added a 2nd, larger double magnetic catch. The dogs beat it.

I put in a deadbolt to hold the gate tight against the latch. The dogs figured out if they pulled the center the gate would fold and open.

I added a spring between the sections to make it harder to pull forward. This made the gate so rigid it started to pull free of the wall so that didn't work.

I put a small hasp on the top. The dogs jiggled it loose.

*FINALLY* I installed a clevis pin into the hasp. *THAT* they haven't beat - YET!









M


----------



## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Tall Dog Gate*
> 
> While I love dogs, they need to be kept out of the kitchen. The opening to the kitchen is over 4' wide and needs to be closed off. However a long gate's swing is too much for the confines of the kitchen. I came up with this bifold gate. The metal screen prevents the dogs from pushing thru.
> 
> ...


Dogs can be persistent!...and smart. 

I like the metal screen. Looks really nice. Could you add a picture with it open?


----------



## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Tall Dog Gate*
> 
> While I love dogs, they need to be kept out of the kitchen. The opening to the kitchen is over 4' wide and needs to be closed off. However a long gate's swing is too much for the confines of the kitchen. I came up with this bifold gate. The metal screen prevents the dogs from pushing thru.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the added picture. Looks like a great solution.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Tall Dog Gate*
> 
> While I love dogs, they need to be kept out of the kitchen. The opening to the kitchen is over 4' wide and needs to be closed off. However a long gate's swing is too much for the confines of the kitchen. I came up with this bifold gate. The metal screen prevents the dogs from pushing thru.
> 
> ...


Don't let the dogs into the workshop… they might learn how to use a screw driver!


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Dog Feeder*

Dogs! We have two sizes, small and bigger. Roscoe is an English bulldog who doesn't like to share with the other, smaller, dogs. Due to extreme inbreeding Roscoe can't eat if the bowl is flat on the floor. The better half had been holding his dish by hand twice a day until I built this simple dog bowl stand.









It's just at the right height for him. It was built out of some 2×10 and 1×12 scraps. I beveled the corners of the sides to make it less of an ankle biter.

I didn't have a compass (or I have one but couldn't find it) so I had to lay out the circles with a ruler. I marked the center and then radius marks every 45° or so and hand connected the segments. The result was a little ragged in spots but all is covered by the bowl lip.


----------



## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Dog Feeder*
> 
> Dogs! We have two sizes, small and bigger. Roscoe is an English bulldog who doesn't like to share with the other, smaller, dogs. Due to extreme inbreeding Roscoe can't eat if the bowl is flat on the floor. The better half had been holding his dish by hand twice a day until I built this simple dog bowl stand.
> 
> ...


Looks like he likes it! Always nice to be able to build what you need (with custom height, etc). Nice!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Dog Feeder*
> 
> Dogs! We have two sizes, small and bigger. Roscoe is an English bulldog who doesn't like to share with the other, smaller, dogs. Due to extreme inbreeding Roscoe can't eat if the bowl is flat on the floor. The better half had been holding his dish by hand twice a day until I built this simple dog bowl stand.
> 
> ...


Where's the napkin holder?... even before we start discussing the salt and pepper shakers!


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Clamp Stand*

A clamp rack was about the first thing I put up. Nine months later I've got more clamps and the old rack was overloaded.

I built this rack out of 8' of 1×4, 8' of 1×2 and a couple of feet of 2×2.








Completed project

The clamps hang by their handles and the 1×2 acts both as the hanger and end stops for the different clamp lengths. Spring clamps and the smaller clamps are on the sides. The whole thing is on wheels so I can move it around when needed.

Initially I just screwed the feet to the sides but the 4' lever was too much force. I half lapped the foot into the side and it is much stabler.








Foot detail


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Clamp Stand*
> 
> A clamp rack was about the first thing I put up. Nine months later I've got more clamps and the old rack was overloaded.
> 
> ...


You can never have enough clamps… I think *clamps* should be renamed *rabbits*...

If you took this picture yesterday, you'll probably need a bigger stand next week… and if you took the picture last week, you probably already need a bigger stand.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Jatoba and Marble Plant Stand*

This is a project I made about 20 years ago. It's out of jatoba with a "Tito's Green" marble floor tile inset into the top. The wood is finished with Johnson's paste floor wax and the jatoba has darkened to the lovely burgundy color you see here:








Jatoba Plant Stand

Marble is porous and watering spills will be absorbed and evaporate. Being a floor tile instead of a wall tile it is thicker and heavier than a wall tile.

The unit was quite heavy as I just planed the 4/4 stock just enough to give me a clean surface and left it thick. Plus, of course, the weight of the marble. A friend who was helping me move commented that it was surprisingly heavy.

The legs are tapered on two sides. The drawer front is full thickness jatoba with a half insert dovetailed to the oak drawer frame. The bottom of the drawer is 1/4" ply. The sides and back are all the same height but the back is raised 1/2" to allow the bottom to be inserted. The raised back also acts as a catch so that if the drawer is pulled fully forward and released the drawer will *not* fall out.

The bottom gingerbread shape was drawn in AutoCAD and printed out 1:1. I glued the pattern down with rubber cement and cut it out with the band saw. After sanding the curves the front edge was routed with a round over bit. The same bit was used on the table edge.

The brass pull is the only metal in this project.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Purpleheart Burial Flag Box*

A veteran friend of mine, Bert, recently passed and I'm making a flag box for his burial flag out of purpleheart. While appearing simple to make, computing the dimensions from just the 17-1/2" side of the folded flag is a challenge. You have to take into account the diagonal lengths (the length of a 45° miter on 3/4" stock is 1-1/16")

The neat thing is that the three pieces:








Pieces mitered, rabbeted and grooved.

When stood together the pieces hold their form on their own.








No fasteners or glue.

Waiting on the lexan for the front. Will update when completed.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Purpleheart Burial Flag Box*
> 
> A veteran friend of mine, Bert, recently passed and I'm making a flag box for his burial flag out of purpleheart. While appearing simple to make, computing the dimensions from just the 17-1/2" side of the folded flag is a challenge. You have to take into account the diagonal lengths (the length of a 45° miter on 3/4" stock is 1-1/16")
> 
> ...


Have you had any exposure to SketchUp (though there are probably many others out there that I haven't tried or familiar with)?

Using SketchUp, you can draw internal dimensions and when the outsides are sketched in you can measure appropriate sides to get an exact length… Then you get a chance to stuff up those exact measurements when you start cutting!


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Purpleheart Burial Flag Box*
> 
> A veteran friend of mine, Bert, recently passed and I'm making a flag box for his burial flag out of purpleheart. While appearing simple to make, computing the dimensions from just the 17-1/2" side of the folded flag is a challenge. You have to take into account the diagonal lengths (the length of a 45° miter on 3/4" stock is 1-1/16")
> 
> ...


I have AutoCAD but the machine is down. I'm one of those guys that wants to know why the dimension is what it is and not just take the drawing software's word for it. Figuring it old school with just a four banger calculator with pencil and paper. The design I use is all 45° angles, not the 22.5°/45° version.

The length of the sides are the inside dimension, plus two miters (stock thickness), and a bevel (stock thickness times the square root of two: ~1.41). To figure the cut lengths you need to know the folded flag short side (17-1/2") and the stock thickness (3/4"). The two sides are therefore 17-1/2 + 3/4 + 3/4 + 1-1/16 or 20-1/16".

The bottom inside dimension is the square root of twice the square of flag short side. The overall length is that plus two miters. This is sqr( 2×17.5^2) + 3/4 + 3/4 or 26-1/4".

The final width is the bottom plus two bevels: 26-1/4 + 1-1/16 + 1-1/16 or 28-3/8". I'll leave figuring out the final height as an exercise for the reader. (Hint: perpendicular bisector)

Both ends on all three pieces are mitered at 45°.

The front is slotted 1/8" w x 1/4" deep, 1/4" back from the front edge for the lexan 'glass'.

The back is rabbeted 1/4" square on the TS for the plywood back. To make the rabbet I set the fence so the distance to the outside of the blade and the blade height are both 1/4". This way I can run the face, flip the board, run the edge, and have a perfect square rabbet.

*CAUTION:* on the 2nd rabbet cut the ~1/8" sq cutoff *WILL* be ejected towards the operator.

*STAND WELL CLEAR OF THE FENCE ON THE 2ND CUT!*

This is *not* an unsafe practice as the stock ejection is a planned part of the operation and not an accidental kickback.

Cut precisely all the joints close and it free stands on it's own. Just think how stable it will be when it's actually glued together. 









*Ans:* the height is exactly half the base overall width or 14-3/16"


----------



## jeffswildwood (Dec 26, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Purpleheart Burial Flag Box*
> 
> A veteran friend of mine, Bert, recently passed and I'm making a flag box for his burial flag out of purpleheart. While appearing simple to make, computing the dimensions from just the 17-1/2" side of the folded flag is a challenge. You have to take into account the diagonal lengths (the length of a 45° miter on 3/4" stock is 1-1/16")
> 
> ...


Nice job. I have made several flag displays over the years. One thing I noticed is flags have different dimensions when folded depending on who folded it (tight or loose). The way it is folded can affect size. I have had to refold several to get it tight then adjust the measurements to fit nicely. I too used the 45 degree angle for assembly. It works nicely. Another style I use is to extend the base and have the risers sit on top of the base using screws on the bottom to hold it together.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Purpleheart Burial Flag Box*
> 
> A veteran friend of mine, Bert, recently passed and I'm making a flag box for his burial flag out of purpleheart. While appearing simple to make, computing the dimensions from just the 17-1/2" side of the folded flag is a challenge. You have to take into account the diagonal lengths (the length of a 45° miter on 3/4" stock is 1-1/16")
> 
> ...


Finally finished the box. Had to special order both the lexan and birch 1/4" ply for the back. I had glass clips in stock along with the felt feet.








Front View

Measuring, marking and cutting the lexan was unexpectedly complicated. I needed an 18-1/8" triangle out of an 18"x24" panel - a neat trick I must say. I tried setting up my miter gauge but the gauge was out of the miter slot before the workpiece hit the blade. Being a 45° cut the rip fence was useless. I had to mark the line and free hand the piece - NOT a practice I recommend. 








Rear View

Tell me, anyone got any *better* ideas than freehand? And don't say a sled for two cuts. Anyway the sled for an 18"x24" or 24"x24" piece on a 45° diagonal would be the size of a half sheet of ply and cost more in time and materials than the project itself! LOL

I had forgotten just what a PITA these are to clamp. I just went merrily along assuming my band clamp would do the trick, alas no. The band clamp seemed to work on the dry fit but when it came to the glue up everything squirmed and the lexan kept slipping out of the slot. Very frustrating and so I had to reset and try again.

I used a pair of corner clamps and glued the sides at the spec. Once that had dried I tried gluing the base in and again failed with the band clamp. I had to resort to a run joint held by hand for a few minutes and then left to set. This morning it seems to have set.

I predrilled the screws for the clips that hold the back on and drive them by hand after waxing the holes, after all purpleheart is a hard hardwood.

Two coats of Johnson's paste wax lightly buffed for finish and six felt feet so the whole thing is non-marring.

The bottom and back were both stamped with my initials and dated. I expect Bert's widow to get a small brass plaque engraved for the front and center of the base.








Bottom stamps are hard to read









Back stamps are easy

I figure I've got about $75 just in materials in it. If I weren't donating it I'd put a $150 price tag on it

$35-40 2-1/4 bf purpleheart 
$22 18×24 lexan
$7 24×24 poplar ply
Clips
Feet


----------



## jstegall (Oct 9, 2008)

Madmark2 said:


> *Purpleheart Burial Flag Box*
> 
> A veteran friend of mine, Bert, recently passed and I'm making a flag box for his burial flag out of purpleheart. While appearing simple to make, computing the dimensions from just the 17-1/2" side of the folded flag is a challenge. You have to take into account the diagonal lengths (the length of a 45° miter on 3/4" stock is 1-1/16")
> 
> ...


I realize it has been a couple of months, but this is the perfect discussion as I have to make two of these. One for a relative and one for a very good friend. Thanks for the added info.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Lathe practice - Dog bone*

Roscoe, our English Bulldog:









Has a fondness for chewing. I had recently remade the post caps for the end of the bed because the dogs had chewed the corners. I even went so far as to put brass corners on it to protect the wood: 









Undeterred, Roscoe thought the metal was even better to chew than the wood: 









He's banished from the bed but to help with his wood gnawing compulsion (and to protect the rest of the woodwork) I turned him a nice bone out of some scrap 2×2 pine. I left the ends square so it won't roll away from him. I rounded the center and added grooves for him to really get down on. 









I thought about smearing a little beef fat on it as a lure but he likes it fine just as is.


----------



## Danpaddles (Jan 26, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Lathe practice - Dog bone*
> 
> Roscoe, our English Bulldog:
> 
> ...


Lots of nice little projects. Not too sure about the pine dog chew though. Maybe better to get him a bone at the pet shop. Chewing wood is not good for dogs. https://www.cuteness.com/article/dangers-dog-chewing-pine-wood


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Sofa stops*

We have blinds on the front window with a sofa backing onto them. The better half was forever pulling the sofa out of the blinds every time she opened or closed them. Simple solution:








Sofa Stops

A couple of pieces of pine 1×6, a little bandsaw work and some sanding and volia a pair of sofa stops. The notch holds the back legs of the sofa and keeps them away from the wall just enough to stay out of the blinds. This would also prevent the sofa from rubbing on a painted wall.

Finished with Johnson's paste floor wax.

The better half mentioned to me, out of the blue, how nice they worked. A brownie point for the kid! LOL


----------



## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Sofa stops*
> 
> We have blinds on the front window with a sofa backing onto them. The better half was forever pulling the sofa out of the blinds every time she opened or closed them. Simple solution:
> 
> ...


Like projects that solve a problem…customized for your situation.


----------



## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Sofa stops*
> 
> We have blinds on the front window with a sofa backing onto them. The better half was forever pulling the sofa out of the blinds every time she opened or closed them. Simple solution:
> 
> ...


That's a good idea. I might try and adapt it for us. Thank You.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Wonderbread Pipe*

Trying to get creative with a new prototype pipe: 









Started with a chunk of 5/4 jatoba, cut square, 4" long. The 5/8"-7/16" stepped bowl and 3/16" stem were drilled to produce a viable pipe blank. I make these blanks a half dozen at a time, each winds up as a unique 'art pipe'. This set of blanks was oriented so that the sides are quartersawn, crown up.

I drilled the blank randomly with both a 3/16" and 1/8" bit, each about 1/4" deep. Some of the holes intersected in interesting ways. On the first production unit (still in roughing stage) I added shallow 5/16" forstner drills as well.

Bought a basic selection of Testor's model paints and supplies and filled in the holes randomly. It needs two coats, especially for the light colors; white, yellow, pale blue.

*Important tip:* Let the paint dry overnight before sanding or blowing off dust with an air hose. DAMHIKT!

Once the paint was *fully dry* (see above) the shaping sanding took off any paint slop and produced interesting effects on the rims of the holes.

A couple of coats of Johnson's Paste Floor Wax and some elbow grease buffing and it is as you see it here.


----------



## CFP (Apr 4, 2010)

Madmark2 said:


> *Wonderbread Pipe*
> 
> Trying to get creative with a new prototype pipe:
> 
> ...


That jatoba looks nice under wax. I'm a big fan of wax finishes.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Covered Pipe*

In an ongoing effort to come up with new pipe ideas (and because the customer specifically asked) here is a pipe with a lid.









The pipe started as 5/4 jatoba that I was ripping square profile slabs for pipe blanks. The last piece left about a 3/8" grain matched cutoff.

I used a little glue and a piece of newspaper to tie the cutoff back onto the pipe once the bowl and stem were drilled. Once the glue dried I was able to drill and tap a 6-32 hole about 5/8" deep thru both pieces. Jatoba is tough enough to be threaded and hold stainless steel machine screws.

After shaping on the belt sander and working up from 120, 240, and 400 grit the paper separated on it's own from the 5" ROS vibration on the top of the lid. At this point the hole in the lid was enlarged to 3/16" (#6 clearance hole). This means that the friction of the lid motion cen be tweaked by *SLIGHTLY* tightening the cap screw.

A little final sanding to get the remains of the paper off and then two coats of wax to finish it off.


----------



## Foghorn (Jan 30, 2020)

Madmark2 said:


> *Covered Pipe*
> 
> In an ongoing effort to come up with new pipe ideas (and because the customer specifically asked) here is a pipe with a lid.
> 
> ...


Pretty cool especially for using up small pieces. I would countersink the hex screw but that's just me.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Covered Pipe*
> 
> In an ongoing effort to come up with new pipe ideas (and because the customer specifically asked) here is a pipe with a lid.
> 
> ...


I agree and counter sunk the 2nd one.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Child Proof Puzzle Pipe*

I had a wild idea hit me the other day, a pipe that won't light unless you know the secret.

I was thinking about making more wonderbread or swiss cheese pipes when it dawned on me that if I intentionally drill thru the stem the bowl won't draw. So the only way to light the pipe is to cover the two holes that intersect the stem.









Such a simple idea! The rest of the holes are decoys and decorations.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Child Proof Puzzle Pipe*
> 
> I had a wild idea hit me the other day, a pipe that won't light unless you know the secret.
> 
> ...


Hey *MM*... maybe I'm dumb, behind the times, naive or just an old fart… but, what are these *pipes* you keep referring to.

Even extrapolating my dark mispent youth, what I've seen from your pictures, they don't seem to resemble any *bong* I've had the pleasure of.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Model Paint Organizer*

To make the wonderbread pipes I needed small volumes of several different colors. A trip to the hobby store and I'm now the proud owner of a bunch of small Testor's paint vials, thinner and brushes. Needless to say in my (admittedly) cluttered shop keeping the paints and stuff in one place quickly becomes an issue. But hey! I'm a woodworker! I can fix that!

I rummaged around for a few scraps and built this:









The bottom is oak (it was the only piece of 3-1/2" wide stock I had), the sides and brush block are pine. The box is 4" x 4-1/2" x 1-3/16" high. The paint vials are 1" x 1" and the thinner is 1-1/2" square. The brush holes are 3/16", chamfered at the top to make it easier to insert the brushes.

Here it is almost filled: 








The vials are upside down to seal

I even signed, dated and waxed it. Finish is usually omitted on shop projects. The final touch is felt feet:









I know its not a big project, but its useful and gave me something to do for the afternoon! LOL


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Jatoba stash box*

Made this box to hold a pipe, lighter, and sealed stash container out of some scrap 1/4" x 4" x 20" jatoba.

Goofed a little and cut the lid too short (1/4" +-.002", I make very precise mistakes!)

Takes about an hour and produces negligible scrap.









Sized to hold a pipe, lighter & stash









Closed tight









The makers mark


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Glass Pipe Accessory Stand*

My customer sells a variety of pipes and smoking accessories and needs various display stands for the oddly shaped bits and bobs.








It's a 'whatzis' stand

This is the second stand I made for them. The first was similar but had three rows of 1/2" posts whereas this version has two rows of 3/4" posts. I dropped off the first one yesterday and my customer was so pleased they immediately ordered the 2nd one.

The beveled edge detail is common to both stands as is the 10-1/2" width. The bevel was cut 3/8" x 45° with the 1/2" 3-1/2 hp Milwaukee table router.

They both have the makers mark and felt feet on the bottom. No scratching the customers counters.








I had a rubber stamp made - LOTS cheaper than a branding iron and no warm up!

They are finished with two generous coats of Johnson's Paste Floor Wax and lightly hand buffed.

They each took and hour or so to make and cost about $5 in clear pine and dowels.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Devlin's First Tool Box*

Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.








Devlin and his tool kit.









Naturally I had to seed the tool kit …


----------



## ac0rn (Jan 31, 2020)

Madmark2 said:


> *Devlin's First Tool Box*
> 
> Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.
> 
> ...


*A TRUE LUMBERJOCK'S OPPORTUNITY* Let's help this young man with his journey.

Wouldn't it be good to help Devlin with his tool skills garden, think how he could grow. I think the LJ's have a very large seed bank to draw from, that can help him on his journey. For him, think of this as an opportunity, a lifelong hobby, a* "can do" confidence builder*, or future career skills. The basic hand tools. Not new, but user items that will need some attention. If he has to put some effort into cleaning, and tuning them, he may truly own them.

We can PM madmark for a shipping address, he can keep a running list of the seeds. It's springtime, let's start a community garden.

I'm in!


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Devlin's First Tool Box*
> 
> Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.
> 
> ...


He's just starting on his life time relationship with woodworking.

Used/fixable is great. Please, nothing too expensive.

Tools for Devlin
3264 Junction St 
North Port, FL. 34288
[email protected]


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Devlin's First Tool Box*
> 
> Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.
> 
> ...


Items pledged so far:

1 Millers Falls #9 bench plane (size of stanley #4
1 Stanley block plane
1- 151 spokeshave
Hopefully someone will send a saw or two.
1 new saw file
1 saw set
Sandpaper

Thank you very much.


----------



## wildwoodbybrianjohns (Aug 22, 2019)

Madmark2 said:


> *Devlin's First Tool Box*
> 
> Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.
> 
> ...


set of card scrapers(one gooseneck); Sandvik 1/2" chisel(swedish steel), mini ryoba type pull saw, and a hunk of olivewood to make a small mallet with(handle not included).

sending monday. happy to support!


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Devlin's First Tool Box*
> 
> Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.
> 
> ...


Thank you!


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Devlin's First Tool Box*
> 
> Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.
> 
> ...


what does he need yet :<))


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Devlin's First Tool Box*
> 
> Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.
> 
> ...


Anything not listed above. LOL

He's been training in my shop and I've given him a few screwdrivers and a quarter sheet sander so far.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Madmark2 said:


> *Devlin's First Tool Box*
> 
> Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.
> 
> ...


He has to be stoked. First project - good cuts and highly functional.

SCORE


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Devlin's First Tool Box*
> 
> Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.
> 
> ...


Devlin here, I wanna say thank you to all of you. I just received the package of Jeff's stuff, I'm going through my new goodies. Many thanks and I'm very appreciative of my adoring fans <33.


----------



## UpstateNYdude (Dec 20, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Devlin's First Tool Box*
> 
> Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.
> 
> ...


I just PM'd you before seeing this thread Mark I apologize.

I'm at work at the moment, but I believe I have a few hand saws (probably need to be sharpened) I can throw in some files as well.

I also have a bunch of hand planes I'll throw in a Stanley #4 and 5 and I have a bunch of smaller block planes as well I'll see what I have and toss them in as well.

I collect tools and my wife is always on me to get them out of are house, so donating to a kid that can get him into a craft I love and help open his mind to building with his hands sounds like a good cause to me.

I'll update this tonight when I get home with what I'm sending out.

Thanks and keep up the good work Mark very nice of you to do something like this. I wish I'd had someone to teach me when I was I kid, my grandfather was my biggest influence, but I lost him very young and had to figure this all out on my own. I'm hoping one of my own kids will pick up an interest in this hobby or something similar.

Good Luck!


----------



## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

Madmark2 said:


> *Devlin's First Tool Box*
> 
> Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.
> 
> ...


Looks like you're going to get duplicates, as offers are in this thread and another one…


----------



## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

Madmark2 said:


> *Devlin's First Tool Box*
> 
> Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.
> 
> ...


You can never have too many tools even if they're duplicates.


----------



## garethmontreal (Mar 10, 2020)

Madmark2 said:


> *Devlin's First Tool Box*
> 
> Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.
> 
> ...


Hey there I've got a fair number of hand tools id be happy to pass on. Over the past couple years a shoulder injury has stopped my from being able to do any actual wood working. But I kept buying hand tools like enough to replace the ones I was using several times over. I live in a smallish apartment and my workbench is literally outside on the fire escape. If I don't start reducing the piles of tools I'm not using taking up most of the space in my apartment I think I'm gonna have to go live on the fire escape with the bench. So to that effect I can add the following tools to Devlin's collection.

Old warranted superior rip saw some light rust but the steel is still good

Crosscut cut saw from the 60s or 70s it's got a bit of a bend in the last couple inches mite need to cut it down to 24"

Diston Canada dove tail saw

Coping saw

Old claw hammer

Wood mallet need to refit the head it's to loose

Fuller butt chisels 1", 3/4", 1/2"

Irwin Marples bench chisels 1 1/4", 5/8"

Old coarse diamond plate I used to flatten my water stones it's rusted but you can probably bring enough to keep edge on the chisels

6 little files and a wire brush

Canvas roll up for chisels and files

Triangle square

A couple of levels

Tape measure

Stanley fat max knife (I used to use it as a marking knife)

Allen keys, combination wrench, some little wrenches, vise grips

Scratch awl

Plastic goggles

Old metal tool box with insert tray

Probably some other stuff I can't think of right now.

Here's a photo of what ive got together so far.










Im recovering from shoulder surgery right now but I can mail it next week.

Have a good one, Gareth


----------



## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

Madmark2 said:


> *Devlin's First Tool Box*
> 
> Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.
> 
> ...


Well from a disabled vets point of view who had tools donated to me.

I want to say Thank you for helping the kid out.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Devlin's First Tool Box*
> 
> Devlin is a young man that lives nearby that has shown an interest in woodworking. Here is one of his first projects - the classic carpenter's tool box.
> 
> ...


From one disabled vet to another, thank you for doing your duty.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Dog Platforms *

Have too many dogs running around. We have drafty tile floors throughout and mostly Shih-Tzu's and they don't like the cold floor to sleep on. The better half wanted little platforms to put the dog beds on.

These are 2'x2' pieces of 3/4" ply on 6" high 2"x4" legs. For stability the 2"x4" feet have the front feet parallel to the sides and the back feet are mounted parallel to the back.








The first pair were clear coated and very plain.

On the second pair I added trim to the front and sides to cover the edges of the plywood. The trim was beveled instead of mitered to soften the sharp corners. I was spraying white the day I built the 2nd pair and ran the gun out on the platforms.


----------



## Foghorn (Jan 30, 2020)

Madmark2 said:


> *Dog Platforms *
> 
> Have too many dogs running around. We have drafty tile floors throughout and mostly Shih-Tzu's and they don't like the cold floor to sleep on. The better half wanted little platforms to put the dog beds on.
> 
> ...


Nice! Maybe you can scrounge up about six times the wood and build me one for this big boy so I can have my outdoor couch back!


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Jigsaw Stand*

Bought a jigsaw to cut out for a dog bowl five or six years ago. Have only used it once since (interestingly enough to cut another dog bowl).

Jigsaws have that stupid blade sticking out and I know for a fact if I remove the blade the next time I go to use it (in another five or six years) I'll never find the blade. I know I have a blade assortment that I bought when I bought the jigsaw but I have no clue where they might be.

The blade means you can't stand the jig saw up and varying length blades make sizing an upright stand difficult. The height above the deck is fixed and an upsidedown hold make sense.

I had a scrap of 1/2" ply that I band sawed a 1-1/2" x 6" slot into. The planer squared up a 1/2 ripped 2×4 (poor man's 2×2) into a nice 1-3/8" square blank. I love how the planer skims all the mill marks and grading stamps off.

I chop sawed the "2×2" into four roughly 11" legs, fine trimmed on the TS and the leg blanks were ready.

Each leg was dado'd 1/2" sq an inch or so from one end. Each leg had each end 1/4" 45° beveled for style on the router.








Jigsaw Shop Stand

I used the saw fence, assembly corner and wooden clamp to make an assembly jig. Once positioned I used my new Grizzly 2" brad nailer (T21347) to shoot a few Brad's in from the side and top to secure the legs to the ply.








Fits like it was made for it - because it *was!* - LOL


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*No Ruler Hexagonal Door Knob Stop*

Roscoe, our English bulldog, decided that the spring doorstop was something good to chew on. In fact it was so good he pulled it out of the moulding. Next thing you know we've got a doorknob shaped dent in the sheetrock. Woodworking to the rescue! Yayyy!

I bought one of those round wall stops, but they're about the same diameter as the knob and won't easily mount to the dent (which is obviously exactly where it needs to mount.)








Round Stop

I had a nice chunk of oak 1×6 in the bin and I eyeballed about 8" or so. Next was square cutting one end and then marking the approximate center of the far end.

Note that nothing is ruler measured, the center was found by holding a pencil steady and marking in from both sides. Splitting the difference by eye was accurate enough and the fixed stop made sure everything comes out perfect without using a rule.

I set the miter gauge to 30° and adjusted the stop so the center mark of the wood was just past the edge of the ZCI. I cut the first miter, flipped the stock, and cut the second miter without changing the settings. This gave me a perfect hex point on one end. Had the miter gauge angle been off, the miters would still center, but the ends will be elongated or shortened proportionately.

Using the piece as a guide I set the rip fence to the exact width of the stock - no ruler needed. Holding one of the miters to the rip fence I cut the opposite miter. Flipping the final miter against the rip fence gave me a perfect hexagon - all without a ruler.

Using an ogee bit I routed a profile on all six sides. Depth was set by eye for about a 1/16" lip.

The mounting holes needed to be clearance for #8 so I chucked a 3/16" bit in the drill press and drilled a pair of holes an inch or so in from the edges. Again the "steady pencil" method was used to mark both locations evenly. Same-same for centering the holes.

Drawing lines point-to-opposite-point set the center location for the stop mount - again no ruler, just a straightedge. To mount the round stop I needed a #6 pilot hole. Unthinkingly I used the same 3/16" clearance drill as the pilot - *oops!* I have a ton of 1/4-20 hardware and after drilling both the round stop and the board with the #7 1/4-20 pilot I was able to tap both and mount with a 1/2" screw.

The remaining two mounting holes were 3/8" x 1/4" countersunk with a Forstner bit. The countersink depth was set using a couple small pieces of 1/4" scrap to quickly approximate a 1/4" depth in 3/4" stock - again, no ruler.

The oak was sanded to 240 grit and finished before assembly. The finish is two coats of Johnson's paste floor wax.

Before mounting I took the project critical step of asking the better half if she wanted it installed tall way or side way!

The required location was (naturally) not on a stud so plastic wall anchors were the order of the day. They're not my favorite mounting method but I had them on hand. The screws were threaded thru the stock until just the tips exposed. Setting the wood over the dent and a bump with a rubber mallet and the mounting hole locations were set without measuring.

After mounting I covered the countersunk holes with oak caps. I love having little stuff like the oak caps in stock.









The better half liked it!
You can't go wrong with that! LOL

When you enumerate all the steps and such even a seemingly trivial project can be satisfyingly complex.


----------



## Foghorn (Jan 30, 2020)

Madmark2 said:


> *No Ruler Hexagonal Door Knob Stop*
> 
> Roscoe, our English bulldog, decided that the spring doorstop was something good to chew on. In fact it was so good he pulled it out of the moulding. Next thing you know we've got a doorknob shaped dent in the sheetrock. Woodworking to the rescue! Yayyy!
> 
> ...


I like it. Reminds me of when I drilled a hole for a birdcage mount way back when and nicked a waterline. An attractive 12" molded escutcheon fixed the problem nicely and covered the water damage.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

**4* Black Limba Dugouts *4**

For those following this blog you know I have a Smoke Shop for a client. Last time I was there she asked if I could make a dugout with a sliding, not rotating, lid. I told her I'd give it a shot and here are the results.

I just recently bought some 2×2x12 wood turning blanks and one that I bought on a flyer was *black limba*, a wood I've never used. Turns out it's very light and soft and not at all suitable for pipe making. However it is just right for dugout making.

Now rotating top dugouts are dead easy to make, drill a couple of holes, screw on a top, and call it good. Only problem is the screw mounted swivel lid loosens and spills the content - not good.

The plan is to make an "ice cream sandwich" with the two interior compartments skinned with two slab sides for the grooves for the sliding lid.









I sliced four 5/32 slabs off one side of the 2×2 (actual) block. These were planed to 1/8" (actually .135") for the eight, 4", sides.

I took the remainder and laid out the interior chambers on both ends. For those who don't know a dugout has two chambers, one for the smoking device and the other for the smoking material.








Parts is parts

Cutting the layout on both ends and then band saw ripping the large piece yielded four middle layers. The bandsaw sawn faces were planed flat to 3/8". Each middle layer combines both sides, the center divider, and bottom, into one piece. Although I could have made the sides, divider and bottom as separate pieces, I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to glue it up!








This is how I *could* figure out to glue it!

Using a couple pieces of scrap and three clamps each makes for a nice tight glue up. Each face was held in place until the glue started to grab using the bottom side as a reference. This was critical to making sure that the middle layer didn't intrude into the lid groove - potentially ruining the pieces.








Three clamps each for tight joints.

Fortunately I had enough clamps to make four at a time. And the better half wants to know why I need more clamps. LOL









After a couple hours (dinner break, I ain't on the clock! LOL) the boxes came out of the clamps, were coarse (80) and fine (240) sanded and then finished with two coats of Johnson's paste floor wax. 








Ready for lids.

The lids were a bit tricky to cut due to their small size (1/8" x 17/32" x 1-15/16"). The saw left a nice 1/16" groove in the bottom of my push pad as I cut two 17/32" strips. Cutting to length was easy and I had all of 1/8" of length to spare. The top edges of the sliders were beveled slightly on the belt sander to fit in the grooves. This was necessary as the lid stock was .135" trying to slide in a .125" groove.








The lids are *small!*

They're all fit and finished ready for packaging.








All finished









Packaged for retail.


----------



## ResearchKing (Apr 4, 2020)

Madmark2 said:


> **4* Black Limba Dugouts *4**
> 
> For those following this blog you know I have a Smoke Shop for a client. Last time I was there she asked if I could make a dugout with a sliding, not rotating, lid. I told her I'd give it a shot and here are the results.
> 
> ...


Thanks for this information. I am a researcher at https://eduprojecttopics.com/ (educational blog) been making research on woods so I came across this page. thanks for sharing


----------



## kunle (9 mo ago)

Madmark2 said:


> **4* Black Limba Dugouts *4**
> 
> For those following this blog you know I have a Smoke Shop for a client. Last time I was there she asked if I could make a dugout with a sliding, not rotating, lid. I told her I'd give it a shot and here are the results.
> 
> ...


Thanks for this information. I am a researcher at unifinalprojects (educational blog) been making research on woods so I came across this page. thanks for sharing


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Purpleheart Gun Box*

Been burning thru my purpleheart inventory making pipes. So I just ordered more from Craftsmen Supply in Ybor City (Tampa) Fl. They have a great selection of exotics and are good folx to deal with.

One of the pieces was calling to me to make a box out of it. Looking around I found the better half's hawgleg 1873 .45 Colt revolver and a project began.








It's 2-3/8" X 5-1/2" X 12" of 1/4" purpleheart

The piece of purpleheart started out as 15/16" x 7-3/4" x 24" rough. I got all six sides and the ammo block out of 18" x 5-1/2" after trim.








The ammo block holds 14 rounds plus six in the weapon for 20 total.

*Material Prep:*
The top, bottom and sides were resawn on the TS from a 15/16" x 12" x 5-1/2" block. Cutting in from both edges allowed resawing the 5-1/2" width but leaves a mismatch ridge in the cut face. The slabs were cut at 9/32" and planed flat to remove the resaw ridge. The outer faces were placed against the fence and the middle slab is a bit undersized and ridged on both faces. The thinnest (middle) slab was designated the bottom.

One of the thicker three wide slabs was ripped into two 2-3/8" sides with about 1/4" to spare.

The 6" not used for the top, bottom and sides was reserved for the two ends and the ammo block. The ammo block portion was cut first and then the remaining width was resawn to make the two ends. The undersized middle slab was given to scrap. The resaw side of each end piece was placed facing out during assembly so the ridges could be sanded out as part of initial sanding.

*Cutting the Pieces:*
The bottom is one side thickness narrower than the top. Using the top as a guide, the rip fence was set. Placing one of the sides between the fence and the bottom gave an exact spacing with no measuring and the bottom was ripped to width.

One of the sides was used to set the miter gauge stop block. Placing the two end pieces against the stop offset the bottom piece the correct amount as it was crosscut to length. Again no measuring.

The bottom width and the end widths must match. Using the bottom piece width as a guide, the miter gauge stop is set and the two sides are crosscut.

The groove for the lid is a little complex to cut. The lip on the lid is nominally 1/8" sq. In order for the lid to slide easily, the side grooves need to be 5/32" or so. However the groove on the end of the box is left at 1/8" and the lower edge of the lid is beveled by sanding to fit. This allows the lid to close and hold against gravity by the friction fit.

*Brag:* Having an Incra fence makes cutting accurate 1/8" and 5/32" grooves with a 3/32" blade trivial. Ditto for the Digital Height Indicator for setting the blade height.

One end piece is not grooved, rather the end is cut flush with the bottom of the side grooves. This allows the lid to slide in. The piece of scrap from this cut isn't. Retain the cutoff as it will be glued to the end of the lid as a handle in a later step.

The two sides and one end of the top is rabbeted 1/8" leaving a 1/8" thickness. Check the lip is a loose fit in the side and tight or nogo on the end. Do not try to fully insert the end as this will be addressed later.

*Assembly:*
All of the interior faces of all pieces are sanded to 240 grit. Sanding dust is blown & wiped off prior to gluing.

An assembly corner is clamped to the locked fence and the piece is dry fit. Once the fit is verified the pieces are assembled in this order:

L side
Grooved end
Bottom
Short end
R side

As each piece is added it is held under hand pressure for 20S or so to let the glue start to grab. After the last piece is added wait a minute or two before unclamping the assembly block and moving the fence leaving the box alone on the saw. This allows the first clamps to be added without moving the assembly too much.

(an hour passes …)

Once the glue had set the box was removed from the clamps and rough sanded.

*Ammo Block:*
Now it is time to fit the ammo block.

Starting with a 4×5 block of the full 15/16" thickness purpleheart it was positioned in the LRHC of the box. The revolver was lain on top and traced onto the block. A little bandsaw work and sanding and the block was contoured to fit.

Next came a little quick layout work for the .45 Colt rounds on a 1" grid. Some adjustment was made for better spacing. A few minutes on the drill press with a 1/2" carbide Forstner bit and the ammo block was ready for initial sanding.

The router was used to profile the ammo block with a roundover on the inside contour. Completing that, the router was then used to cut the decorative bead around the base of the box.








Ammo Block detail.









End detail showing decorative bottom bead.

After final sanding the ammo block to 240 grit, it was glued in place and clamped. For simplicity the block was only glued on the bottom.

*Perfecting the Lid:*
To make it easier to insert the lid the rabbeted end corners are sanded to about a 3/32" radius.

The rabbeted end of the lid is sanded on a bevel just to the point the lip will start into the groove. It should NOT bottom out in the groove but rather jam slighty to hold the lid in place. The fit should be overly snug (almost tight) but not impossible to open, the fit will loosen after the wax finish is applied.

Once the lid is holding properly when closed, the underside is marked and trimmed to be flush with the outside.

The cutoff saved from trimming the end piece is sanded to length and glued to the square end of the lid. This gives an easy grip for opening the box.

*Final Finish:*
The box was final sanded to 240 grit.

Two coats of Johnson's paste floor wax and a set of four brown felt feet complete the project.








I just love the look of purpleheart!


----------



## surrywood (Aug 24, 2017)

Madmark2 said:


> *Purpleheart Gun Box*
> 
> Been burning thru my purpleheart inventory making pipes. So I just ordered more from Craftsmen Supply in Ybor City (Tampa) Fl. They have a great selection of exotics and are good folx to deal with.
> 
> ...


Thanks MadMark you have inspired me. I have been thinking about what projects to do next and this is right up my alley, plus my nephew just bought his first 357 (S&W model 19) and his first 38 (S&W model 10) a few weeks ago. He is interested in woodworking and this would be a great way to get him jump started. That, and I could use a few presentation boxes for my own meager collection


----------



## P89DC (Oct 1, 2017)

Madmark2 said:


> *Purpleheart Gun Box*
> 
> Been burning thru my purpleheart inventory making pipes. So I just ordered more from Craftsmen Supply in Ybor City (Tampa) Fl. They have a great selection of exotics and are good folx to deal with.
> 
> ...


Nice work! Stainless steel three screw…Virginian Dragoon?


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Purpleheart Gun Box*
> 
> Been burning thru my purpleheart inventory making pipes. So I just ordered more from Craftsmen Supply in Ybor City (Tampa) Fl. They have a great selection of exotics and are good folx to deal with.
> 
> ...


Dunno. It's an Italian reproduction single action.


----------



## AndyJ1s (Jan 26, 2019)

Madmark2 said:


> *Purpleheart Gun Box*
> 
> Been burning thru my purpleheart inventory making pipes. So I just ordered more from Craftsmen Supply in Ybor City (Tampa) Fl. They have a great selection of exotics and are good folx to deal with.
> 
> ...


FYI…

Recent reproductions of Colt SAs should be fine to keep 6 rounds in the cylinder, but originals and older reproductions are not safe to keep with a round in the chamber under the hammer (a blow to the back of the hammer will fire the round).

Very nice work!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Purpleheart Gun Box*
> 
> Been burning thru my purpleheart inventory making pipes. So I just ordered more from Craftsmen Supply in Ybor City (Tampa) Fl. They have a great selection of exotics and are good folx to deal with.
> 
> ...


Looks like the shot to me.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Purpleheart "no leaks" Dugout *

My smoke shop client commissioned some "non swivel" dugouts last week. The problem, she explained, was that the tops come loose and they spill their contents.

I made some sliding top dugouts that seemed to work well but the sliders also work loose and may spill (albeit less often).

Turning my engineering brain loose on the need I came up with a solution, the two screw top. One screw acts as a pivot, the other is removable as a lock.








Who knows what lurks inside?

The top is 1/2" thick for strength even though it is endgrain.









The seam is tight!

And with just a few quick spins of the locking screw the contents is revealed. 








Voila!


----------



## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

Madmark2 said:


> *Purpleheart "no leaks" Dugout *
> 
> My smoke shop client commissioned some "non swivel" dugouts last week. The problem, she explained, was that the tops come loose and they spill their contents.
> 
> ...


That's cool and all, but I don't know what lurks inside.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Purpleheart Gift Box*

Had purpleheart left over from the gun box and made this for the better half.








Closed









Open


----------



## mtnwalton (Aug 4, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Purpleheart Gift Box*
> 
> Had purpleheart left over from the gun box and made this for the better half.
> 
> ...


very nice work; i really need to check out some exotics


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Purpleheart Gift Box*
> 
> Had purpleheart left over from the gun box and made this for the better half.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I love purpleheart, the color is just impossible. I can't count how many have asked me how I dyed it.

One of the pieces had a strip of scrap laying on it for a few days in the garage and got *sunburned!* You could see a 'strap mark' on it. LOL

Jatoba, red heart, sapele, pie, pecky tamarind, etc. all make beautiful projects.

Craftsmen Supply in Ybor City (Tampa) will ship 2×2x12 exotic turning blanks.


----------



## rinisaskia94 (Apr 7, 2020)

Madmark2 said:


> *Purpleheart Gift Box*
> 
> Had purpleheart left over from the gun box and made this for the better half.
> 
> ...


Wow this is so nice. I love the purpleheart too. How long you make this?


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Purpleheart Gift Box*
> 
> Had purpleheart left over from the gun box and made this for the better half.
> 
> ...


I can make a box like that in an hour or two plus glue time. I detail the process here on the purpleheart gun box project.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Purpleheart Leftovers Box*

Made the better half a 6×6 purpleheart box the other day out of 1/4" resawn 1×6. I had the scant middle of the two sided resaw left over. Its saw burned and 5-3/4" square and thickness varies all over the place around .200".








The middle slice of a double sided resaw.

Lemme see if I'm I can make anything useful out of this I think, and so a project began.








2-13/16" square and half of that high.

Cut the big square into four smaller squares. Then ripped two of the smaller squares in half. This gives top, bottom and four sides.

Trimming two side thicknesses off both the side and end of the bottom piece sizes it perfectly without a rule. These two cutoffs are almost the only scrap. Most everything is used or sawdust.

Cutting the groove for the lid is next. The end piece groove is 3/32" while the sides are 1/8". This allows the lid to slide easily and snug into the end when closed. One end is cut thru for where the lid inserts.

Sanding is next to get the saw burn off. Then onto assembly.

Dry fit in the assembly square and then glue up and clamps.









Lots of steps in one pic.

After an hour or so in the clamps the box is ready for finishing.








More steps in one pic.

The lid has to be fitted, trimmed and have a handle attached. Finally its tagged and waxed.








Completed box opened









My stamp and date


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Twin Screw Lidded Purpleheart Pipe Design*

My head shop customer asked me for some smaller lidded pipes. The pipes suffer from ng the same issue as most dugouts, the screw works loose, the lid opens and the (usually expensive) contents spills.

The solution to this is the same as for the dugouts, twin screws. One acts as a pivot, the other a locking pin. Until the locking screw is removed the lid cannot open.

Here is a collage of my latest prototype:









Twin screws for no leaks

On the original lid design the lid and body need to be drilled as a set to insure perfect screw alignment. On the first iteration I used a sheet of newspaper as a fault line and glued the pieces together for drilling. This was messy, time consuming, and the paper residue had to be sanded off. With the new design the lid is thinner and taped to the body for drilling, thus speeding and simplifying manufacturing.

Learned that I can use the drill driver to run the tap in and out - much faster than hand tapping. I'm using Johnson's paste floor wax as a lube with good results.

One rule of thumb about production is every time you 10X your volume, you should be able to cut your production cost by half. Tape vs glue and power vs hand threading help boil the labor out of the production to drive the costs down and my (admittedly small) profits up.

Once final finishing is complete I shrink wrap the pipes for general cleanliness and to support my "never lipped" promise. 








Shrink Wrapped for Sale









Never Lipped!


----------



## mel52 (Sep 4, 2017)

Madmark2 said:


> *Twin Screw Lidded Purpleheart Pipe Design*
> 
> My head shop customer asked me for some smaller lidded pipes. The pipes suffer from ng the same issue as most dugouts, the screw works loose, the lid opens and the (usually expensive) contents spills.
> 
> ...


Have never seen a pipe like this, looks like it would work real good. Good job !!! Mel


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Twin Screw Lidded Purpleheart Pipe Design*
> 
> My head shop customer asked me for some smaller lidded pipes. The pipes suffer from ng the same issue as most dugouts, the screw works loose, the lid opens and the (usually expensive) contents spills.
> 
> ...


They're *MONSTER* hitters.

Google: *etsy purpleheart pipes*, click the *Shopping* tab, and *Custom exotic wood pipes at reasonable prices* is about #10 down.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Dual Bowl Twin Screw II*

The prototype being successful I made five more pipes, one with a special dual bowl design.









Five pipes, one with a secret surprise!

Starting with a board we progress to functioning pipe blanks.


Lovely purpleheart is a full 1" thick
The purpleheart was ripped at 3/4" and then recut to 3/4" leaving a 5/32" offcut with a TK blade. The 24" piece was cut at 3-7/8" and yielded six pipe blocks with about 1/4" left over. Talk about 100% yield! 
The paired pieces are taped for alignment
The through screw holes are piloted for 6-32
Tapping the holes is easy with the VSR cordless drill. Lubing with Johnson's paste floor wax makes the tap cut easily. I run the tap to full depth twice, once to cut, once to clean.











The screw holes are tapped and the bowl drilled in two steps. Note the one pipe with TWO bowls! One for now, one for later!
The magnetic square and crude fence work surprisingly well to align the stem drill. The clamp holds things tight so both hands are free to work the drill press and air hose.
The stems are longer than the drill press stroke so the last bit has to be drilled by hand with an aircraft drill. The pink zip tie serves as an adjustable stop to prevent over drilling.
A Jorgensen clamp gives huge clamping pressure over a large area but releases with a quarter turn. The Incra fence locks in two places and gives a rock solid clamping surface.
At this point we have five functional pipe blanks ready for shaping.

Shaping is the real creative part. Up to now the blanks are identical. The bandsaw forms the basic form and the sander allows the creative juices to flow. I generally don't know the final form until I create it.

Resuming the manufacturing process:


The blanks are paired with their lids and tightened down
The basic form is cut on the band saw
Coarse (80 grit) sanding on the oscillating belt sander creates the near-final form
Fine (240 grit) sanding with an ROS cleans up the form and smooths the finish.
Disassembled and slathered with two coats of wax.
Finished and ready for packaging.









Only *four* made it to packaging, the two holer is *mine!*

Although the color seems all over the board it will rapidly darken to a uniform deep purple.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Insulating the Garage Door*

Just insulated the garage door. Cost me $80 for four 4×8×2" foam panels. Very thinly foil skinned on the front side and an equally thin film logo printed back.









3/4 complete, gotz 2 move stuff around to finish.

Cut the foil side first, snap, fold, and cut the back film. Use a fresh razor blade or very sharp knife.

I cut a partial row off the short side of a sheet. Each 4' wide piece is cut to length to fill two adjacent spaces in the door. The lengths are cut by placing the factory edge to the left of the space with the film up. Score the film with a line by eye about 1/2" in from the right end. Recutting deeply makes the piece easy to snap and fold. Then cutting the back film is simple as long as your blade is sharp.

The support grid for the 16' x 8' (two car) door is in the center of each of the four horizontal panels forming the roll up door. The insulation panels were inserted foil side out behind the horizontal stiffeners and are held firmly in place without tape or glue.









The foil film is so thin it's iridescent.

Use a knife with a blade long enough to go completely thru the foam for trimming panels that were cut oversize and got stuck. (DAMHIKT)

Precision, although generally desired, is not needed here. Better to cut 2" undersize than 1/2" oversize.

The project was easy, took the hump with the *stump* about two hours, needed only a rule, knife and straight edge to install. Oh yes, a stepstool is needed to get the top row installed.

The cutting, installing, and trimming makes a lot of styrofoam mess. It looked like someone had tried to murder a beanbag chair afterwards. The static on the styrofoam beads makes them cling and a chore to clean, but an air hose helps.

I ran the door down, kicked on the window shaker and was down what felt like 10° in an hour. SUCCESS!









My window shaker ain't much but it's a *LOT* better than nothing!

One side benefit is that the shop is now a lot quieter with the door up or down. With the door down street noise is essentially eliminated in both directions.

Here in Florida this is going to really help the shop this summer.


----------



## Antbag (Nov 13, 2020)

Madmark2 said:


> *Insulating the Garage Door*
> 
> Just insulated the garage door. Cost me $80 for four 4×8×2" foam panels. Very thinly foil skinned on the front side and an equally thin film logo printed back.
> 
> ...


I need to do this. I assume you can buy the the foam panels at the blue or orange store?


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Oak Tablet Case*

I made this last summer when I got the new Galaxy Tab. Up to now I hadn't thought of taking a picture of itself in the mirror.









Infinity mirror.

The case is 1/2" oak and is 1-1/8" thick. 1/2" back, 3/8" dado and 1/4" lip.

Each dado is 1/4" deep and have a couple of felt pads as shock absorbers. The fit is snug and the tablet doesn't move in any way.

The back is drilled and countersunk for the tablets camera.









Countersink gets rid of "tunnel vision"

The top edge was sanded on the 1" OSS to form the notch to access the power button. Likewise the right end was sanded for the power cord plug.

The right end is secured with two countersunk screws so the tablet can be removed and replaced, the fit of the end is exact and snug on its own.

I experimented with using magnets but found that they wouldn't hold securely enough for careless handling.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Rolling Printer Stand*

Most of the "stands" I create are simple 2X4 & ply creations and this is no exception. However this is one is for our home office and needed to be a little less Spartan.









Its the exact height of the computer table - and *rolls!*

The printer is an hp all-in-one with scanner and such. Because of this it needs a minimum 18" height when the scan lid is open. I mad the shelf 20" to give some clearance.

The raw 2×4s were planed down to 1-1/4 to remove the grade marks and other dings and dents. They were ripped to 3-1/4", flipped & reripped to 3" even.

The sides were routed with a bead to mute the 2×4ness. The bottoms were beveled at a 45°, 3/8" or so (eyeballed until it looked "right"). The front edges of the ply are trimmed. The shelf trim covers the 15/32" dados.









Shelf trim and leg detail.

Speaking of dados, these were all cut on the TS and the Incra M1000 miter gauge and flip stop fence made cutting a *perfect* 15/32" dado trivial. No rap-tapping or tweaking. I cut it dead-on the first try.









No slop in *that* joint!

Casters with plates are a PITA to mount so I opted for the screw stem casters. After center marking the center of the bottom of the legs I piloted a nice, deep, 5/16" hole in each leg, much deeper than the caster stem. The brad point gave me a precise start point. With the leg clamped to the fence and the drill having a built in level the holes were quickly and accurately drilled.

Placing the 3/8-16 tap in the battery VSR drill cut the threads in moments. I ran two passes on the tap, one to cut, one to clear and the casters threaded in evenly and snugly. All four 2" casters swivel and the cart rolls very easily.









Excuse the sloppy staining, I don't do a lot of it.

I like to "reverse miter" the top trim. This softens the corner and looks nice to me.









Reverse miter corner is less apt to gouge.

The dado joints lock the legs to the shelf in both directions making wracking unlikely and giving stability without braces.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Lexan Lidded Smaller Drawer *

Smaller drawers are handy, but they can be dust collectors.

Here in Florida there is no end of small critters that would find a dark seldom used drawer as a good home.

I have several cases holding several drawers the get carried around - not always right side up.

To solve all of the above I've built a set of lidded drawers. I built two each of three sizes and added internal lexan dividers on the smallest for added storage variants.









The drawer is essentially sealed with the lid closed.

The drawers just slide into their case so no hardware is needed.









One of two cases, the lids in one slide left, the others right.

The drawers can only be inserted if the lids are closed. But by the same token nothing can spill once the drawers are inserted.

The drawers are 1×6 resawn to 1/4". The cases are 1/2" with 1/4" x 3/4" drawer rails. The same rail stock is attached at the back as stops.

Yeah, I know it would look better if I had put on a front lip, but since these were destined for shop use functional design overruled beauty.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Lexan Lidded Smaller Drawer *
> 
> Smaller drawers are handy, but they can be dust collectors.
> 
> ...


Very nice and functional !


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Metric Box - It's full of METERS!*

Just got a couple of toys for myself as a belated b'day gift. An outlet tester and an induction probe to go along with my DVM. One of my complaints about DVM's is that the leads seldom store neatly.

As electrical tools in a wood shop the things collect lots of dust and debris.

I came up with this four compartment lexan lidded box:









It's a metric box 'cause its full of *meters!*

I used 30" of oak 1×6 resawn on the TS to 5/16" and planed down to 1/4". There is one chunk of 1/4" x 5-1/2" x 18" leftover because of the lexan, instead of wood, lid. There are also a handful of other small pieces left, but overall there was little waste.

The box is 9" x 7" x 2-1/2" and consists of a dozen pieces including the lid but not the felt pads on the bottom. Speaking of felt, I was thinking of lining it with felt but I didn't have any felt on hand.









The lexan lid holds in place when fully closed.

The bottom is made up of nine pieces counting the ends. Since everything came from one piece of wood originally, the color match is great.









The bottom with "born on" date and my shop stamp.

The box is finished with two slatherings of Johnson's Paste wax inside and out.

Took a couple of hours not counting glue up and used 1-1/4 bf of oak and 9" x 7" of 3/32" lexan.

*As an aside:*
There are several threads of the "what do you use to design with?" variety and I thought y'all might want to see the plan for this project.









Plan in red, any "as built" changes in pencil (none in this case.)


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

Madmark2 said:


> *Metric Box - It's full of METERS!*
> 
> Just got a couple of toys for myself as a belated b'day gift. An outlet tester and an induction probe to go along with my DVM. One of my complaints about DVM's is that the leads seldom store neatly.
> 
> ...


Those are the best kind of plans. Nice job on the box too. Seems like there is nver a good place to store meters in a dusty environment, and you solved it.


----------



## mjheck (Apr 3, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Metric Box - It's full of METERS!*
> 
> Just got a couple of toys for myself as a belated b'day gift. An outlet tester and an induction probe to go along with my DVM. One of my complaints about DVM's is that the leads seldom store neatly.
> 
> ...


OK if I make a copy of your plans?


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Madmark2 said:


> *Metric Box - It's full of METERS!*
> 
> Just got a couple of toys for myself as a belated b'day gift. An outlet tester and an induction probe to go along with my DVM. One of my complaints about DVM's is that the leads seldom store neatly.
> 
> ...


a bit of history:
https://www.iec.ch/about/history/beginning/

We are so happy electricity has always used decimal units.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Cat Can Corral*

The better half asked for a corral for the cat food cans on the kitchen counter. The design was to be as simple as possible and leave no hiding spots for any potential miniature livestock.

Because of the size of the cans the corner support space was limited. To maximize both internal space and strength the side slats are dado'd into the 45° corner posts instead of overlaying as in a normal crate. The carton the cans come in is 7"x14" and allows 1-7/8" vertical space per can. The cans are about 3-3/8" dia. so there is a little rattle space.









Cat food can corral

The slats were ripped from a length of oak 1×6. As the board was face sawn, the ripped slats are therefore quarter sawn and have lovely rays and flecks.

To make the slats I used an S4S board from the borg and it was fat. I didn't think to plane it to exactly 3/4" and when I test fit them into the corner dados they were tight. So back again recutting to 25/32" instead of 3/4". The Incra miter gauge made it trivial to recut 1/32" in the dados.

The corner 45° posts were cut from two pieces of 2×4, each 9" long. This length was chosen so that two dados could be safely cut from each end instead of trying to get all four from one end. The dados were 3/4" wide, but I only had a 1/2" straight cut router bit and needed to make two passes on each on the four dados *plus* the 1/32" 3rd pass. So twelve passes on all four sides of two pieces is umm … 12×4x2 = 96 router passes.

In order to get the 45° pieces each 2×4 needed to be ripped at a 45° on the TS, but as luck would have it I couldn't find the wide saw throat plate. Thinking quickly I realized "I own a bandsaw!" and solved the problem forthwith. The bandsaw did a good job limited only by my ham handedness. Zip, zip, zip, two passes on each 2×4 and I had my four 45° corner posts.

I needed 8, 1/4" x 3/4" x 22" slat pieces. I set the Incra to 1/4" and, making sure to stand to the left of the blade, ripped away. The offcuts were gently tossed back off the saw and onto the floor - no kickback horrors.

Glue up was interesting. The short side slats were glued one end at a time into the dados on the corner piece. The corner black was pressed against a stop so all the ends would be even. The opposite end corner block was dry fitted onto the slats to ensure proper alignment. Once dry, the pieces were reversed and the process repeated.

Once both ends were glued the slats on one side were dry fit and the other side glued. The the process was repeated for the final side.

Everything is glued w/Titebond II, no metal used on this one.

The project was left unfinished per SWMBO.

The cats don't seem to care.









6 layers of 8 for 48 cans in a 14×7x9 volume


----------



## BigMig (Mar 31, 2011)

Madmark2 said:


> *Cat Can Corral*
> 
> The better half asked for a corral for the cat food cans on the kitchen counter. The design was to be as simple as possible and leave no hiding spots for any potential miniature livestock.
> 
> ...


Practical projects are great. Thanks for the ideas.


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

Madmark2 said:


> *Cat Can Corral*
> 
> The better half asked for a corral for the cat food cans on the kitchen counter. The design was to be as simple as possible and leave no hiding spots for any potential miniature livestock.
> 
> ...


Neat project, storage crates are always welcome. Looks like you were planning ahead to allow them to stack with the notch you placed on top of the corner post. Great idea.


----------



## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Cat Can Corral*
> 
> The better half asked for a corral for the cat food cans on the kitchen counter. The design was to be as simple as possible and leave no hiding spots for any potential miniature livestock.
> 
> ...


That is a fantastic design. I can see lots of uses for it and it would make for great practical gifts.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Cat Can Corral*
> 
> The better half asked for a corral for the cat food cans on the kitchen counter. The design was to be as simple as possible and leave no hiding spots for any potential miniature livestock.
> 
> ...


Hi Mark!

I hope you knocked up a second one for a six pack!


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Bill Press*

SWMBO ask for place to keep monies flat and orderly ahead of bank day. Had a chunk of purpleheart kicking around and made this box.









Purpleheart cash keeper

The box is 1/4" stock except for the weight which is full 15/16". The full width stock was sanded to make the finger curve so both sides would be exact copies after resawing. I have about a 5/32" thick center cut with an odd semicircle cutout.

The half moon grip was cut from a piece of scrap mahogany using my plastic protractor as a radius. It was easily cut with the band saw, sanded, and rub joint glued in place. I think the mahogany goes well with the purpleheart.

Once the box was completed all of the edges were beveled with a pass or three of the 5" ROS.









1/16" hand bevel


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Bill Press*
> 
> SWMBO ask for place to keep monies flat and orderly ahead of bank day. Had a chunk of purpleheart kicking around and made this box.
> 
> ...


Hey Mark !

you could have sent me the loot and I could straighten it out for you


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Caliper Storage box*

Have a nice 8" digital caliper for 8 or so years. After much use the plastic clamshell case's hinge started to fail and the case was cracking after a drop or two (oopsies).

With nothing much else on my plate while waiting on router toys, I built this little replacement case for my caliper.









Caliper Storage box









Lid lock requires thin kerf blade for .093" lexan.

The box is 12-1/2" x 4-3/8" x 1-1/2" with a 1" interior clearance.

I used a nice 14" piece of "cherry looking" clear pine 1×6. Ripped to 5" for easier 5/16" resaw. A quick pass thru the planer and I had two perfect 5×14 x 1/4" blanks. One for the sides and ends, one for the 3-7/8" x 12" bottom.

The piece for the sides and ends was ripped into three 1-1/2" strips. These form the two 12" sides and the two 4-3/8" ends.

The sides were dado'd 1/8", 1" from the bottom. Due to the thin kerf blade this took two passes. One at 1" and one at 1-1/32".

One end piece was dado'd 3/32" wide, 1/8" deep at 1-1/32". This provides a lip that will hold the 3/32" lexan lid. The 1/8" sq dados on the sides allow the lexan to slide freely until it locks into the end.

The 2nd end piece is ripped to 1-1/4" for lid clearance.









Look closely at step in left corner, lexan rides up and locks.
The edge of the lexan is slightly beveled to ease final seating.
The two lid end corners were rounded to make starting lid smoother.

The padding from the original case was reused and glued in place with some old RTV I had on hand.

As its a shop box, Johnson's Paste Wax is the finish of choice, No feet are needed as this is not a display piece.

*Total time:* a little over an hour plus glue time.

*Total materials:* 

14" clear pine 1×6
4-1/8" x 12-3/8" lexan
glue


----------



## ScottM (Jul 10, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Caliper Storage box*
> 
> Have a nice 8" digital caliper for 8 or so years. After much use the plastic clamshell case's hinge started to fail and the case was cracking after a drop or two (oopsies).
> 
> ...


Just in time!! My caliper box is also cracked and stuff falling out. Great idea for the weekend. Nice job too.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*First Fast-Joint Mini - jig storage box.*

I got the Fast-Joint Mini jig (review HERE ) in and working the other day and thought what better first project than a storage box for all of the jigs bits and bobs? The complete, assembled jig consists of the following:









Lots of oddly shaped bits.

By stacking I was able to reduce the interior space required down to 8-1/4" L x 4-5/8" W x 4-1/8" H. With the sides 1/2" thick and the ends 3/4" the outside dimensions for the sides is 9-3/4" and 5-5/8" for the ends.









Everything fits!

I started with 3' of 1×6 clear pine cut into three, 12" pieces. All three were ripped to 4-11/16". Two of the pieces were resawn to 1/2" while the third was left at the full 3/4" (nominal) thickness.

Cutting both ends of both sides was fast and easy. The 1/2" sides were cut with the pin pattern. Some of the ends of the pins have chipout still. This may be eliminated by using other patterns.









Corner detail. Note dado in far side.

If anything cutting the tails was easier than the pins. No realignment or adjustments are needed when cutting the ends. Just unclamp one piece and clamp in the next.

The tails get sawdust in the corners that can keep the collar from getting tight to the pattern. A quick blow out of the dust and recut helped perfect the joint.

The sides and one end are dado'd for the lexan lid. The side dados are 1/8" W x 1/4" D to allow the 3/32" lexan to slide easily. The end dado is 3/32" W x 1/4" D to hold the end of the lexan as a lid lock. The other end is trimmed to allow the lid to slide out.

All the parts were test fit. Two of the corners were drop in fit while the other two needed a little persuasion from a rubber mallet. Once assembled the pieces were marked and the bottom measured and cut from 1/4" oak scrap.

There is a lot of irregular shaped surfaces that need to be brushed with glue. The tail ends were painted with glue and the box loosely assembled. Gluing the bottom was a little messy but not difficult. The clamps pulled everything tight while the glue dried.

Out of the clamps the box was sanded with 120 grit and then finished (as with most of my stuff) with two slatherings of Johnson's Paste Wax.

The final box neatly holds everything, including the instructions:









Completed storage box - everything just fits.


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *First Fast-Joint Mini - jig storage box.*
> 
> I got the Fast-Joint Mini jig (review HERE ) in and working the other day and thought what better first project than a storage box for all of the jigs bits and bobs? The complete, assembled jig consists of the following:
> 
> ...


Looks really nice, MM2. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*PC Router bushing storage box*

Just bought a set of Porter-Cable router bushings. These are available from lots of vendors priced from about $10 to $50. Being the cheap illegitimate son that I am I bought the bottom dollar brass (not alum thank you) set.

Apparently a major cost item is the lousy plastic storage box:









The box doubles the cost!

The set I ordered came in a plastic bag in a thin index card stock box, not really suitable for long term storage.

This box isn't much larger than the card paper box the pieces originally came in. Made from 1/4" stock the box is 2" x 2-3/4" x 3-3/4". The two interior compartments are 1-1/2" W x 2-1/4" L and 1-1/2" D with a 1/4" divider.









Neatly stacked.

The box itself is oak 1x ripped and resawn at 1/4". The lid is 3/32" lexan.









Lexan lid slides and locks.

The box was sanded to 240, date stamped, and then got the usual shop treatment of two slatherings of Johnson's Paste Wax.









Shop stamp and date on bottom.

About 90 minutes plus an hour of glue drying time.

*Matls:*
11" of oak 1×6 ripped into one each 1-1/2" and 2" strips, resawn to 1/4" (I have a 1/32" middle strip from resawing in from both milled sides.

*FWIW:*
Ship carpenter's chests were filled with lots of tools, each in their own case like the precious jewels they were when you were at sea without spares. Each tool encased in wood not only to protect the tool but to demonstrate skill in box making.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *PC Router bushing storage box*
> 
> Just bought a set of Porter-Cable router bushings. These are available from lots of vendors priced from about $10 to $50. Being the cheap illegitimate son that I am I bought the bottom dollar brass (not alum thank you) set.
> 
> ...


looks just like the set i have from about 15 years ago,only diff is the box is blue.forgot what i paid,it wasn't any where near fifty tough.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *PC Router bushing storage box*
> 
> Just bought a set of Porter-Cable router bushings. These are available from lots of vendors priced from about $10 to $50. Being the cheap illegitimate son that I am I bought the bottom dollar brass (not alum thank you) set.
> 
> ...





> ...... when you were at sea….. Each tool encased in wood not only to protect the tool but to demonstrate skill in box making.
> - Madmark2


Encase in wood so it woodn't sink.. bugger the sailors, save the tools.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Zebrawood wall clock with Valentines hearts joints *

SWMBO requested a new wall clock, "Honey can't you make me a clock?" and the answer is "Yes. Dear." (I've been married a lot of years.) As things worked out all the needed pieces arrived just in time for St. Valentines day.

Got a nice shipment of wood in today, some wenge, yellow heart, walnut, cherry and zebrawood. Being well versed in how to try to help marital bliss, I told her to pick and zebrawood it is!

This seemed like a great project to use the *Fast-Joint Mini* joinery jig. I used the *Heart* template and the Freud 3/16" x 3/4" solid carbide cutter.

The sides were 1/2" and the top and bottom 3/4". These were resawn from some full 1" thick stock. This gave me the pieces I needed and some useful offcuts. There was no need to plane as the TS resaw didn't leave a ridge.

I routed the four sets of pins with little effort. I put their spacer against something solid, slide the jig tight an the the wood. Lock it down and its ready to rout.

None of the tails had any chipout (except for one little bit that was my fault when I moved suddenly).

The tails cut even easier. Once set all four ends can be cut without any adjustment.

Anyway here is how far I've gotten after about three hours of work. One hour for material prep and the balance routing. Notice the St. Valentines day hearts in the joints.









The hearts look nicely romantickle

One trick with the jig is to nibble. The tails will fill with shredded strands of wood and you'll want to clear the shreds often. Fortunately the jig is rigid enough so that nothing moves if you lift it clear to blow the chips out.

Patience is key. Especially with the tails. Make several clean up passes and a final slow clearing pass to insure the best fit.









*HEART* pattern fit is very tight.

After only two projects the jig is producing really tight joints with minimal setup. This was one of my original requirements and this jig has exceeded that.









Test fit.

I was testing the fit and found that one of the tails wasn't fully cut. It was simple to reclamp and clean up the missed spot without any adjustments. Quite the pleasant surprise.









Front

The clock dial is 7-1/4" square (thank you KLOCKIT). The mechanism is quartz with a chime box and 2" speaker. Since the clock is designed to hang the back will be a slider to allow access to the batteries (AA x3) and the chime settings.

* … Time Passes …*

Back at it. I fiddled around and figured out which side was up and which face was front. I marked all the pieces so I could reassemble it the same way.

This clock has a sliding back with a hanger hole. This will allow access to the clock works for battery changes and such.

The 1/4" back fits into a set of 9/32" W x 1/4" D dados on the sides and top. The bottom was trimmed 1/2" to allow the back to slide out. Since gravity seldom fails the hole in the back will support the clock yet allow easy access when needed









Inside back with 1/2" hanger hole.

The clock mechanism consists of three interconnected pieces, the clock, the chime box and the speaker. The kit came with a mounting bracket and grill cover for the speaker. We're going to use the mount but not the cover (didn't have the right sized Forstner and couldn't wait to order one.)









Clock innards. Clock, chime module and speaker came pre-wired.

Had to trim the dial a hair, but everything dry fit together.









Dial, 1/4" backer and clock ticker all fit!

Having an Incra its a surprise when something doesn't quite fit. I'd cut the ends 1" wider than the dial to allow for two, 1/2" sides. Imagine my surprise when the interior came up 1/8" short.

I traced the error to the resawing operation. Since I cut in from both edges I often get a small ridge. Anticipating the ridge I resawed at 9/16" instead of 1/2". The cut was so smooth I said these are fine as is, no need for planing. (Doh!)

I used the sides to set the cut depth and adjusted the bit to just cut thru the 9/16" pieces and that took the extra 1/16" off each end of the top and bottom rails making the interior 1/8" too small for the dial plate. No bother, just a quick 1/16" trim from each side and all is both hunky and dory.

Moral of the story: *Exact* thickness is important!

To mount the 1/4" ply dial board I made a bunch of 1/4" x 1/2" thick cleats. These are mounted to each of the four sides.









Cleats in clamps.

The bottom cleat was split to give the 2" speaker some clearance.

The overall dimensions are snug.

The clock shaft is 1" and that sets the location of the rear cleat. Then the speaker needs 2" and the sliding back takes 1/2". So the absolute minimum spacing is 1" + 2" + 1/2" or 3-1/2" total. Given that the full pattern space for the Fast-Joint Mini *Heart* template is 3-9/16" I had cut the pieces to 3-5/8" to give me all of 1/16" to spare.

Here you can see the cleats on the bottom being clamped. The speaker opening is flanked by the mounting clip screw holes:









Bottom

Once the pieces came out of the clamps the box was assembled *without* glue due to the snug fit of the joints.

The front cleats were installed and clamped. While the glue was drying I mounted the clock works, all but the hands.









Front cleats being glued.









Clock works and speaker installed.

Final assembly is mostly getting the chime and the hands aligned. It has four sound options and a volume control.

Here is the completed clock without any sanding or finish.









All that's left is finishing.

Just in time for St. Valentines day. Love you dear! 

*Matls:*

Clock works - $16
Dial - $6
Zebrawood, 2 BF - $41
1/4" ply - stock on hand

Total outlay: ~$63

Total Labor: 8 hrs @ 20 / hr = $160

Suggested sale price: $225

*PS:*
She was delighted!

*PPS:*
Although she said she liked it as-is, something about unsanded/finished wood bothers me so I slathered on a couple of coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. While I was at it I glued the chime box down with a dollop of quick grab construction adhesive.

She put it up on the wall for now.









The wax really popped the zebrawood grain!


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Zebrawood wall clock with Valentines hearts joints *
> 
> SWMBO requested a new wall clock, "Honey can't you make me a clock?" and the answer is "Yes. Dear." (I've been married a lot of years.) As things worked out all the needed pieces arrived just in time for St. Valentines day.
> 
> ...


Looks good MM. You've got that jig figured out. I'm looking forward to seeing the final result.

(No "can it be used as a square" jokes)

Nice work.


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

Madmark2 said:


> *Zebrawood wall clock with Valentines hearts joints *
> 
> SWMBO requested a new wall clock, "Honey can't you make me a clock?" and the answer is "Yes. Dear." (I've been married a lot of years.) As things worked out all the needed pieces arrived just in time for St. Valentines day.
> 
> ...


Nice work on the joints! I'm going to have to look into that jig…


----------



## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

Madmark2 said:


> *Zebrawood wall clock with Valentines hearts joints *
> 
> SWMBO requested a new wall clock, "Honey can't you make me a clock?" and the answer is "Yes. Dear." (I've been married a lot of years.) As things worked out all the needed pieces arrived just in time for St. Valentines day.
> 
> ...


Very nice. The heart joints add to it.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Easter Shrine*

Friend of SWMBO is nice older lady who is quite devout. Thought this would make a nice gift for Easter.

Bought a nice 9" tall statue of Jesus and wanted to put it in a fancy box suitable for table display. I just got the Fast-Joint Mini set up and dialed in. This was going to be a test of the jig.









9" H x 3" W x 2" D statuette with customized engraved plate.

Easter colors are purple and yellow and it just so happens I just got some yellow heart and I inventory purpleheart and I think the colors will make a cool complementary pair.

There are two templates that seem appropriate for a shrine. The *HEART* and *CROWN* patterns seem ideal. Since end grain shows and is inevitably darker, I decided to use the purpleheart on the top & bottom and the yellow heart on the sides. Since I'm part Scottish (cheap) I wanted to maximize the yield on the yellow heart.









Heart sample









Crown sample

*Material Prep:*

Measuring carefully shows my S2S yellow heart was 15/16" thick. With the thin kerf blade I can get two, 3/8" thick pieces out of that with a hair left over to plane.

I started with two, 1' lengths. One yellow heart and one purpleheart. The pieces were ripped to 3-5/8" to both fit the statuette and to give me three decorative tails on the Fast-Joint Mini.









S2S 1×6

After trim & ripping to width I resawed the yellow heart at 13/32". The pieces were resawn in from both edges with nary a step.

(As an aside, that resaw was done with a *Freud LU83* combo blade. Pretty clean for a $60 blade.)









End view showing clean, even resaw on TS.

A couple of light planer passes got them to 3/8".

The purpleheart was resawn to 3/4" and required no planing or sanding at all.









Material ready for routing.

*Routing:*

The plan is to put both *CROWN* and *HEART* pins on each side. This entails cutting one end of all four sides in each pattern. Marking one edge of each side helps keep everything oriented.









HEART pins routed, moving on to tails.

About half the pieces just drop in after sanding the router burrs off with 240 on the ROS.









Hearts and Crowns on one side.









Crowns and Hearts on the other.

*Assembly: *
It took a little flip flopping to get the best fit. Once tight the outside was sanded. Due to the nature of the jig the tails are hair proud and the were sanded flat.

I have lots of thin (1/8" - 1/4") slabs left over from resawing. This is due to a couple factors. My supplier ships 1x S2S that is fat at 15/16". This plus the 3/32" thin kerf blade leaves usable 1/8" slabs. I used a purpleheart piece for the back to match the top and bottom. Here it is under clamps









Waiting for glue to set.

When I placed the statuette in initially there was a bit too much headroom. So I decided to add a subbase to the base of the statuette. I had a nice scrap of zebrawood that I cut 1" under the interior width and 1/2" under the depth. The block was centered from the front but pushed flush with the back of the case.

*Finishing:*
Due to the nature of the object a durable finish is called for. My standard finishing schedule is two coats of 50%-50% mineral spirits followed by a third, full strength coat.

Here you can see how the poly darkens the purpleheart while bringing up the yellow heart grain.









The grain in the yellow heart just pops.

Here it is after the first coat is complete.









Wet!

Here we are with the completed shrine. Stamped and dated on the bottom with felt feet on each corner. The statuette is glued down and ready to go. I think its ready to gift.



















Happy Easter one and all!

*Totals:*

Statuette-$40
1/2 bf yellow heart-$9
1/2 bf purpleheart-$8
1/12 bf zebrawood-$2
Shop fee:-$5 (finish, brush, glue, sandpaper, etc.)

*Matls Total:* $64

Labor: 4hrs @ $20hr = $80

*COGS:*-$144

9 Mar 21-delivered:









She was delighted!









Looks nice on the bedside table.


----------



## Notw (Aug 7, 2013)

Madmark2 said:


> *Easter Shrine*
> 
> Friend of SWMBO is nice older lady who is quite devout. Thought this would make a nice gift for Easter.
> 
> ...


I never knew until I read this that I am part Scottish


----------



## mtnwalton (Aug 4, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Easter Shrine*
> 
> Friend of SWMBO is nice older lady who is quite devout. Thought this would make a nice gift for Easter.
> 
> ...


Happy Easter to all


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Crosses -- More Easter Gifts -- Rosewood, Zebrawood, Cherry, Yellowheart, Purpleheart *

This was an Easter gift for a nice little old Italian widow I know. It came out so well I had to make another one for SWMBO. Then another for a neighbor and another … six so far!









Rosewood and zebrawood

The "standard" proportions are that the cross bar is half the height, centered 1/4 of the way down.

The material was ripped to 1-1/2", resawn on the TS to 3/4" thick and then cut to length, 15" and 7-1/2". This used over 22-3/4" of a 24" stick.

The center of both pieces was half lapped on the saw. There is a trick to it. Both pieces can be cut with the same setting. First cut the short side of the half lap at the computed position, in this case 3", and cut in from one end of both pieces. Move the stop block to a little shy of the ending position an just nick the edge. Use the end of the 2nd piece to check the spacing. Tweak as needed. Once the stop is set nibble the middle away. Since the stop is set you can just cut away without worry.

The ridges from the combo blade were quickly removed with a mouse detail sander with an extended nose. This got the glue surfaces much flatter for a better bond.

The four corners of both pieces were 1/4" chamfered on the saw. I mark 1/4" in from the side on the end. Then I align the mark with the edge of the ZCI kerf and set the stop block to match. This made the chamfer cuts fast & easy.

Before gluing the surfaces were lightly sanded to remove any burrs. Sanding was primarily the sides that will be impossible to sand after gluing. Since everything is made to measure with the Incra no layout lines are needed. This saves sanding.

The glue was spread with an acid brush and the lap clamped with minimal squeezeout.

Here are four more. It took an hour apiece to get to this point for the first two built one at a time. Making four only took *two* hours to get to this same point. The more you make the faster you get.









Four crosses, two yellow heart, one each variegated cherry and purpleheart.

Zebrawood is very porous and takes glue well. The rosewood is slightly oily but still bonded well. Yellow heart, cherry and purpleheart all glue well..

After an hour under clamp (only the one) it was ready for more light sanding.









In process waiting for sanding and routing.

The worst fit of the four crosses was selected to receive a purpleheart inlay. I routed a 1/4" by 1/2" wide dado down the middle of both the main body and the cross bar. Cutting some purpleheart scraps gave the 1/4" inlay. I wanted the inlay thicker than the bead. The beading bit is 1/8" and I generally leave ~1/16" reveal for a total rout depth of 3/16" or so.

Routing the inlay groove had to be done on the assembled cross. Guiding the piece was easier that I had initially thought. I used a piece of scrap between the work piece that is wider than the crossbar extension (3" or less). I put the spacer against the fence and put the cross tight in. I moved the fence until it just touched the edge of the 1/2" straight router bit. I note the measure and move the fence half the stock width (3/4") plus half the bit width (1/4") or 1" closer. Running the piece with the same spacer left a perfect dado in both directions.

Here you can see the inlays before sanding.









Inlays intentionally proud.









1/4" purpleheart inlay is deeper than planned bead.

Once the face was smoothed the edges of the cross were beaded on the router. Since the beading cutter radius limits how tight the inside corners are routed, the innermost portions aren't routed. I'm calling it an "architectural detail" - that's my story and I'm sticking to it!









Router can't get all the way into inside corners.

*Side Note:*

Last time I made one of these (two shops ago) I used a *NEW* HSS beading bit with a guide bearing and it burned the H-E-double hockysticks out of the inside corners that was a @#$%& to sand out. On this one the cutter was carbide and didn't leave char anywhere. Carbide rulz!

To hang the cross a mounting hole is needed. On the drill press I drilled a 1/4" dia x 3/8" deep hole, at a slight upward angle (~1/12), about 1" down, centered on the back. The angle wasn't critical, I set it by propping one end up a bit. The depth was limited to prevent drill thru with the Forstner bit. This should insure easy mounting and prevent casual jarring from knocking it down. I also installed a couple felt feet in the bottom corners. This prevents the crucifix from marking the wall.









Back showing felt feet, production stamps and hanger hole.

The object was stamped and dated and slathered with two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. Later units are finished with clear glossy poly cut 50%-50% with mineral spirits.









Three crosses ready to hang.

The rosewood cross took a little less time because I'd not torn down the router and drill press setups so things went a bit faster. The next four went even faster.

*Mat'l:* 1/4 bf

zebrawood - $19/bf = $4.75
Bolivian rosewood - $20.50/bf = $5.12
variegated cherry - $7.00 = $1.75
purpleheart - $12.00 = $3.00
yellowheart - $14.00 = $3.50
Shop fee - glue, glue brush, sandpaper, poly etc. = $2
Matl total: *~$7 ea*

*Labor:*

Qty 1: 1.5 hr ea @ $20/hr = *$30*
Qty 4: 1.0 hr ea @ $20/hr = *$20 ea*

*COGS:*

COGS X2 @ 1st unit - *$74.99 ea MSRP*
COGS X2 @ 6th unit - *$54.99 ea MSRP*

Empirical proof of the production rule that 10x the qty should cut costs by half.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Indoor Car Stereos (two)*

Have had this idea about building a home stereo (glorified AM/FM) out of a "one DIN" car stereo. Saw someone make a beautiful zebrawood case for an old Marantz receiver and got the bug to make a wooden stereo of my own.









Continue reading for build details …



> *Update 09Jul21:
> Added battery backup.*
> The radio works great but because it runs from a power supply instead of a car battery, here in Florida, means frequent power glitches. Each glitch required rescanning for stations and was a minor, but regular, annoyance.
> 
> ...











2nd set for SWMBO

I've got a beautiful piece of wenge that I'm going to use for the front and top. The plan was to use cherry for the ends but things change. The wenge is very dark and the cherry was to be a light contrast. This will help show off the fancy *Fast-Joint Mini* jig joints.









The hearts really contrast nicely in pink & red. It looks like another fine *MOM CORP.* product.

The wenge top will be glued on flush with the four sides. The back needs to be removable for fuse and connection access.

I started by looking for an inexpensive yet functional car radio. I found a nice one in my budget ($25) that had 4×50w outputs and usb, Bluetooth, etc features. Its also controllable by smartphone. This means I can use it like a stereo even when offline.

I settled on the Dual *XDM17BT* single DIN (50mm x 180mm, 2-1/8" x 7-3/16") unit. This is a very shallow (under 1-3/4") box so it will fit in a 1×4 sized box.









Full featured car stereo.

Being a car stereo it is expected to be hard wired into the vehicle chassis but for this app the speaker and antenna wires need to be externalized to standard connectors.









Radio and harness stub.

*Electrical Selection:*
Had to bring the antenna connector stub to the rear panel and then to an external screw block for connection to a standard FM dipole antenna.

Home stereos normally use a folded dipole (T shaped & a yard wide) antenna while the radio has a coaxial plug. The dipole antenna connects to the screw terminal block. Its a lot of nonsense but you have to have all the bits and bobs to make it work.

For power I'm using a 12vdc @ 10A "brick" power supply. This seems simpler and easier than wiring and mounting a internal power supply. I wanted to keep all the voltages in the box "hand safe".

Because the relatively high peak current demand-10A, good high current connections are needed. Cars have lighter outlets that support high currents. It seemed like a fun and appropriate idea to use a car lighter connector pair.

By using the lighter plug you could lug it to the car and plug it in there. I don't know why you would want to, but I digress.

I found a home audio surface mount four speaker terminal panel. Cars have four, corner speakers that need a pair of terminals each for a total of eight.

This has screw terminal on both sides so connecting to the harness pigtails is a no brainer. Since it is designed to surface mount with screws no special wiring box or mounting issues should occur.

This should mount to the left rear for easy connection to the harness stub. Likewise the antenna terminal block should be on the right rear. The power plug cord can go anywhere convenient since that line has plenty of slack.









Brick, antenna stub, lighter set, speaker terminals, and radio with harness.

*Project Dimensioning:*

Can't really begin the actual detail dimensioning until all parts are specified with known dimensions. This is why we discussed all the part selection crap before getting here.

The *Fast-Joint Mini* uses 3/4" materials for the ends and since the stereo is about 7-1/2" the box plus an inch on each side for clearance means the stock for the sides (front) should be 7-1/2" + 3/4" x 2 + 1" + 1" = 11". In reality the end stock is 7/8" and the overall final size is 11-1/8".

The front panel will fit four reps of the CROWN patten in a 4-3/4" width. The plan is for square 3/4" cherry ends (sides). Plans change. The ends are African Padauk now.

The 2nd unit has three reps of the 1-3/16" HEART pattern for a sleeker look. The rstereo was centered in the front as well. Otherwise the secondary woods are the same.

The front and top will be 1/4" resawn wenge, hopefully bookmatched. Its an odd bookmatch, wrapping around the top front edge, but a bookmatch nonetheless.

The back is screwed on for access to the wiring and will fit into a 3/8" W x 1/4" D rabbet on either side. The top will fit edge to edge and cover to top of the side rabbits and the top edge of the back. The bottom will be glued in place and will be made from a secondary wood. I've got a nice thin (1/8") piece of purpleheart that will look weird but otherwise perfect for the back.

I've got plenty of speakers here so I decided not to build any in.

*Mat'l:*

stereo - $25
wenge - 2/3 bf @ $25.00 = $16.66
African Padauk - 1/3 bf @ $27.00 = $9.00
purpleheart - 1/8×5x12 - salvage
variegated jatoba -1/4×5x9 - salvage 
power supply, 12vdc @ 10A w/NEMA 5 cordset - $25.00
connector pair, 12vdc @ 10A, car lighter type - $8.00
terminal block, 2P, solder tail - $6.00
antenna pigtail - $7.00
FM dipole antenna - $6.00
8-cell AAA battery holder - $8.00
8 AAA batteries - $6.00
2ea rectifiers - $3.00
Asst. HS tubing - $2.00

Over a C-note and no sawdust yet!

*Mat'l Prep:*
After evaluating stock on hand I decided that the cherry was "Meh." when set against the almost black wenge. Rummaging around I came up with a nice African Padauk board that was variegated and just a perfect contrast to the wenge.

The max height for the front is four 1-3/16" reps of the *Fast-Joint Mini* template or 4-3/4". The wenge is almost 6" but I can't resaw quite that much. So I ripped it to 5-3/8". The wenge is 13/16" thick less a 3/32" kerf so I then resawed it at 11/32". The thickness difference was easily sandable and no planing was needed.

The top is the full 5-3/8" depth and will be flush on the front and sides. This will put the book matched edges of wenge on the top front of the case.









Bookmatched wenge top and front.

Looking at the end grain of the wenge I'm reminded of phenol or that stuff they make knife handles. It looks ... man-made.









Kinda looks like a carbon fiber layup.

The padauk sides were rabbeted 1/4" x 3/8" for the purpleheart back. Got a nice sized thin (1/8") slice of purpleheart that might work as a back mounting plate.









African Padauk smells sweet and delicious when cut.

Scrap piece of variegated jatoba is the right size for the bottom. Color will clash, but who cares, it's the bottom!

*Decorative Joinery:*
Its time to cut the corners. I'm using the *CROWN* pattern on the *Fast-Joint Mini* cutting jig. On the second unit we'll cut the HEART pattern.

Setup only takes a few minutes. Pull the router, change to the PC guide plate, insert the bit & collet and tighten. Set the clamps and stops on the jig, mark the edge and you're ready to cut.

One tip. When cutting the pins, a thru cut, set the bit 1/16" or so proud. This will give a cleaner cut than the cutter being dead flush. If you do this *you must remember to reset the height to flush before cutting the tails!*

Like a dumbass I got twisted around and cut two lefts instead of a right and a left. But as luck would have it one of them had a bit of chipout on the pins. So I used the spare left to replace the chipped out tail board.

The second unit was cut correctly on the first try. Again everything is an easy hand fit - no "gentle persuasion" needed.









Both ends slip together by hand.

Both units have a very slight gap in the upper corner where the pattern didn't quite match. No biggie, but a spot for more sanding.









Slight width offset by changing ends on jig. Alignment not quite perfect.

This thing is *LOUD* even without the electronics. I used what I had on hand and, er, the back and bottom … contrast the rest.









Rear view shows 1/8" resaw scrap purpleheart panel.

Total of four species: 

wenge - top & front
padauk - sides
variegated jatoba - bottom 
purpleheart - back

Its the most gawd awful color clash but the bottom and back won't show - much.









Bottom is 1/4" resaw scrap variegated jatoba.

*Preliminary Layout:*
The remaining electrical parts are trickling in, enough have arrived to begin the layout process. The DIN mount cage and the antenna terminal block are in. Still waiting on the power chain, speaker terminal block and antenna stub.

Initially I was going to perfectly center the radio on the panel but the layout looked "Meh." My plan is to add a "power present" green LED somewhere just as a decoration. Putting it to the side seemed to throw it off balance. I thought centering it above the radio would look cool and I moved the radio down so the lower edge of the opening was at 1". This will give it a lower look with the idiot light up top as an accent.


Well, idiot light concept didn't work out so 2nd unit is slimmer without provision for it.

One aspect of the *Fast-Joint Mini* that I'm still having issues with is trying to predict the exact final dimensions both inside and overall based on the material sizes. While the side dimension is consistent relative to the end, the tail spacing references the inside face. The overlap between the pins and tails isn't specified and the answer isn't simple to compute and, I suspect, varies with pattern.

Did the layout prelims with the Incra rules. Marks light up at the correct angle but are close to invisible otherwise.

*Mounting the Antenna Block:*
The antenna block is used to connect the FM T-dipole antenna to the rear of the stereo. The block has two screw terminal tabs and two mounting holes all 1/4" apart. The tabs are 1/8" down from the mounting holes centerline. 3/16" bit should work for all four holes.

On 2nd unit the terminal holes remained at 3/16" but the mounting holes were drilled and 6-32 tapped.

The terminal block is positioned on the rear aligned with the antenna jack on the radio. This is to maximize cable slack.

The 1/8" dia mounting holes call for 4-40 hardware but 6-32 fit when driven in.

*Power Inlet Notch:*
The 12VDC power cord will be fed thru a 1/4" rounded notch on the lower right aligned with the radio power connector. A simple knot in the cord will act as a strain relief. Drill the rounded top and then zip-zip on the bandsaw to cut the notch. Easy-peasey.









Antenna block & power inlet.

*Drilling the DIN Mount:*
Gave a *lot* of thought to how to cut the 2X7 DIN opening. Router? Scroll saw? Jig saw?

At first I had planned on using the router, nice clean cut, fairly simple to layout- or so I thought. Cutting the long sides would be no problem but the narrow ends are more of an issue. To avoid a trapped cut I'd have to rout the far end using the *CROWN* pins against the fence. Errr, no.

Scrollsaw seemed too slow, especially with a really hard hardwood (1630 Janka) like wenge, plus I'm not a super scroll sawer.

Finally I settled on the jig saw. Easy to use, faster cutting than the scroll saw, and I figure I can clean up the cut with my new detail sander. We'll see.

… goes into shop & returns …

Well, just got done with cutting the DIN hole with the jigsaw.

When cutting the DIN hole with the jigsaw I clamped the workpiece to the saw fence rail. I used a shop rag between the fence rail and the workpiece to absorb the jigsaw vibrations. Three small clamps held it firmly in place.

I got to within 1/8" to 1/16" with the jigsaw and started sanding from there.

The advantage to sanding to final dimensions is that the process is s-l-o-w. Being slow makes it forgiving, easy to sneak up on the fit without going too far.

Went thru half a dozen nose sanding pads but got the hole sized just right.









Used drill, jig saw, magnetic base light, three sanders, shop knife and file to cut DIN opening.

The key to the final fit was getting the corners right. Sanding tends to leave the inside corners proud. The sanders just can't square the corners properly. A little judicious paring with the shop knife followed by a small bastard file readily cleaned up and squared the inside corners.









DIN cutout progression: 1/2" pilot hole, rough cut, final fit, radio installed.

*2nd Unit Scrollsaw works bettah!*
1st unit was a *lot* of effort to get right. 2nd unit I used the scrollsaw and got better results faster and easier. Lesson learned.

*Speaker Terminal Block:*
Speaker plate came in. It has screw terminals on both sides. Since the harness stub was prestripped hookup was simple.

It took a little time to layout the hole. The spacing was such that if I centered on one of the terminals and drilled with a 3/4" forstner bit the fit would be perfect.

After drilling I used the scrollsaw to cut the rest of the opening. There was a *lot* more clearance than with the DIN hole and I used the scroll saw to good effect.

Since purpleheart is so hard it will thread easily and hold even at 1/8" thickness. I drilled and tapped four 6-32 holes in the corners for the terminal plate mount plus two centerline screws..









Rear panel dry fit.

*Final Assembly, Wiring, Finish, and Test:*









Finishing samples.









Pre-assembly finishing.

Gluing up required some thinking. The front has a ton of glue surfaces but there is a little flex in the sides so it was important to glue the bottom in at the same time to hold the sides square.









Four part glue up.

Glued the face to the sides first. The joints just fell into place. Once the sides were glued the bottom was glued on three sides and everything was clamped.

While waiting on the main glue up I finished up the back mounting. I'd predrilled the mounting holes with a #8 pilot. This gives a nice tight clearance for a #6. Setting the back in place I drilled and tapped one hole for 6-32. Placing the first screw in held the back in place while I drilled and tapped the remaining three 6-32 holes.

I put screws in finger tight to make sure the holes all aligned. The 6-32 1/2" SS cap screws were lubed with paste wax and snugged finger tight.









Top glue up.

After the main glue up the box was sanded with 120 to knock off any imperfections. And there are always "imperfections". The top was intentionally cut 1/16" long so there was 1/32" overhang on either side to be sanded out.

Now we use the 240 to give a good clean base for the finish. I do "ten out and back reps" at each grit. I can usually feel the paper stop cutting at about rep #8.

Finish schedule is two coats of 50%-50% poly / MS mix. The thinned poly penetrates better than full strength.









Finishing.

At this moment the box is drying the 100% poly final coat.

I used a 6" lazy Susan bearing as a paint stand. I finished the inside first and flipped it onto its back on the bearing plate. This allows me to finish the outside and rotate without any additional contact with the wet surfaces.

Now if the last few parts would get here I'd be able to hear if it sounds as good as it looks …

A day has passed and the poly is nice and hard. Time for the final connections.

First I soldered the antenna stub to the teminal block lugs. No polarity needed.

Next came the power lead. The plug has two wires one black and one black with a white runner. There is no standard for these types of markings and in this case the stripe was the +12V and not ground as many others mark it so.









Only one gnd contact is wired.

Additionally I experienced a moment of panic when the gnd side wouldn't buzz. Turns out that of the two gnd contacts on the plug only one side is connected. Damn cheap China crap. The wire gauge looked a little small for 10A but we'll find out.

All of the wiring was soldered and covered with heat shrink tubing.









Soldering and heat shrink prevent loose connections.

I had worried about how to reach in from the inside to bend the DIN frame tabs to hold it in the box. When I put the cage in without the radio I had a Homer Simpson "Doh!" moment when I saw how easy it was to bend the tabs from the outside!

The radio clicked into the frame and the cables all plugged in without issue. There wasn't a lot of slack, but there was enough.









Final touches include felt feet.

2nd unit got 1/2" rubber feet 6-32 threaded into the end pieces on the bottom. This raises the unit up and adds a bit of lightness.









Ready to rock!

*Final Wiring and Power Up:*
I bought a pair of small home theater speakers, each about 7" tall. I'm not going for ear splitters, just some gentle background noise.

I spliced the 12VDC lighter socket onto the tail of the 12V power supply being sure to verify polarity and voltage with my DVM. The soldered wires were individually insulated with heat shrink tubing and then the pair were over-wrapped with another layer of HS tubing to form a clean "running splice".

The 2nd unit I found a power supply with the lighter socket standard so that was cleaner and easier - no splice needed.

Since this is destined to be a table radio, miles of speaker wire isn't needed. I cut, stripped and tinned two, 3' lengths of 16/2 zip cord as speaker wire. As a matter of habit I color tag each cable with a short length of colored HS tubing. Finding the far end isn't much of an issue on a short cable, but the HS banding also serves to limit how far the zip cord unzips.

I made a temporary antenna out of about a 2' length of 20ga solid wire and attached it to the antenna terminal.

Everything is tagged, labeled and ready to go.









Final wiring.


*Drum roll please …*
.
.
.

*IT WORKS!*









Ta da!









Two for two!

Not only does it pass manual functionality but the Bluetooth wireless let's me completely control it from anywhere in the house.









Radio screen snapshot.

We installed the *Dual iPlug P2* app and were able to pair and immediately operate on both my Samsung Galaxy Tab A and SWMBO's cellie.

Unlike a Bluetooth speaker this stereo continues to play even when the tablet controller is out of range or off. A nice feature for ambient music.

Again, unlike a Bluetooth speaker it can be operated from the front panel. Not bad for an el cheapo box.


*Mat'l: * ~$100 <== My out of pocket-true cost
*Total Labor:* 8 hrs @ $20 / hr = $160
*COGS:* ~$260
*MSRP:* ~$520

*PS:*
After playing with it for a while I gotta admit its a cool toy. Its just enough noise in my ear without taking over the room. The Bluetooth control is fun to play with and works flawlessly everywhere in the house.

*PPS:*
After finding out she could use it as a Bluetooth stereo speaker, SWMBO ordered one for her office. She really likes pink. Now to see if my supplier has any pink lumber …


----------



## go4tech (Aug 5, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Indoor Car Stereos (two)*
> 
> Have had this idea about building a home stereo (glorified AM/FM) out of a "one DIN" car stereo. Saw someone make a beautiful zebrawood case for an old Marantz receiver and got the bug to make a wooden stereo of my own.
> 
> ...


Would be concerned about the power supply. The radio is rated at 4×50W. That is 200W total plus whatever the radio uses and heat.

Not too sure of A) Current capacity of the power supply, and B) Noise rejection / filtering.

While the supply says 10A on a 12V DC rail, not so sure that it can really supply that much current and maintain the 12V rail…

Second, not so sure how well it is noise filtered. The Radio should have some filtering to assist. Then do not know how big / good are the capacitors are inside to supply the current when driving large current (ie: low frequency and reasonable volume) loads.

Worse case, you can always use an old computer power supply. If needed, add some capacitors to keep it stable for high current conditions.

Hope this is seen as helpful.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Indoor Car Stereos (two)*
> 
> Have had this idea about building a home stereo (glorified AM/FM) out of a "one DIN" car stereo. Saw someone make a beautiful zebrawood case for an old Marantz receiver and got the bug to make a wooden stereo of my own.
> 
> ...


Fuse is 10a, everything was sized based on that.

Automotive 12vdc is *very noisy* with ignition noise. Voltage wanders all over from 14v+ down to 9v when cranking. Lights on, engine off 11-12v. Radio is designed to work under wide range of voltages from a noisy line. So holding a hard 12v rail shouldn't be critical.

PS selected also is UL approved (means higher quality), it should push its rated output w/o much effort.

That power is peak and I don't intend to rattle the walls with it so I should keep it in the SOA envelope.

I test powered the radio with an old 12vdc 2.5A wall wart. It came right up and I connected to it on Bluetooth with my Samsung Galaxy Tab A. Pretty cool.

Old computer PS has *lots* of +5vdc, +12vdc not so much, 150W PC PS may only push ~4A on the +12. PC PS form factor (with fan & fan noise) won't mount in 4-3/4" x 5-1/2" space. Cost is 2x the selected "brick".

Good idea considered and rejected along with open frame and caged power supplies.

Stated design goal is *everything* in box is to be low voltage, intrinsically safe, 12vdc. No 110vac cord or terminals anywhere in the box.


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

Madmark2 said:


> *Indoor Car Stereos (two)*
> 
> Have had this idea about building a home stereo (glorified AM/FM) out of a "one DIN" car stereo. Saw someone make a beautiful zebrawood case for an old Marantz receiver and got the bug to make a wooden stereo of my own.
> 
> ...


When I built my boat I purchased a $29 automotive radio. When I went to install it, parts of it broke in my hands. I picked up one of these. It's a class D amplifier. Radio on a chip. Very low power requirements. AM/FM, USB, SD card. etc. etc. I had a couple of new pioneer auto speakers I had from years go that I never used. It's still running today and is great. They cost about $30. on Amazon. Many different makes/models. This one comes with a remote and works with your phone too. Built in antenna is as good as a portable radio. Works fine.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Kitchen drawer & front replacement *

Fall 2019 I replaced the old, black slab, kitchen doors with nicer farmhouse doors with bead board inserts.









Before.

Then Jan 2020 had a MI and then C19 hit and the drawers got put on hold.









SWMBO wanted "farmhouse".

Just now (Apr 2021) trying to update the drawers. They're black slabs with cheap white plastic pulls and the fronts are inseparably attached to the cheap 1/2" plastic coated MDF boxes.


















Old "bottom dollar" non-wood, stapled drawer.

I needed to reuse the (cheap) drawer 3/4 extension slide hardware. This hardware wraps the edges and the 1/2" screws are 1/4" up from the bottom edge, just where the bottom dado would normally be. The bottom dado needs to be offset, making the drawer shallow.

The old bottoms were cheap 1/8" pressed board and I'm using cheap 1/4" ply instead. Since my bottom stock is 1/4" instead of 1/8" the dado needs to be wider. To keep from losing any more drawer depth I move the dado closer to the edge. This risks the screws busting into the bottom dado but I figured if I piloted the screws and was careful I'd be ok. Looks like it worked.

I tried getting (expensive) 1/2" poplar and oak and although the BORG web site sold it, three times my order got canceled. I called *Craftsmen Supply* in Ybor (Tampa) and they had 5/4 poplar that had already been planed to 1-1/8". Using my TK blade I can get two 1/2" thick pieces with a 1/32" to spare.

The x6 stock was ripped down to an exact 4" to match the existing boxes. Then it was resawn down to 1/2" and the sides were cut to 19-3/4". The finished width needed to be 11" and counting kerf I had less than 1/8" to spare from the original 5/4×6" x 30" blank.









This sliver is the *only* scrap!

Moving to the router I installed a 1/2" shank 1/4" dia. carbide shear angle double cutter to dado the sides and ends for the bottom. The carbide cutter went thru the poplar at 1/4" depth like buttah and was barely warm after the run.

Everything is under clamps now.









First of five drawers clamped and drying.

... time passes …

Out of the clamps I gave the box a final 200 grit sanding and transferred the old hardware to the new box. It fit into the old hole like it was made for it … 'cause it was! LOL









Looking good. Hardware works great.

It's currently unfinished until SWMBO decides.

*Fronts:*
Finally a decision was made to go with a flat front (the inset to match the doors didn't fly) and I made several test fronts. SWMBO selected a classic Roman ogee profile. Naturally, I had to order and wait for the router cutter. Here you can see the plain clear pine fronts.









Classic Roman ogee.

The fronts were attached with construction adhesive and clamped for an hour. Alignment was made trivial by using a piece of scrap to space the drawer above the door and to align the corners of the drawer front with the door corner.

Routing only took a few minutes each and sanding only took a few minutes more.

SWMBO is in charge of paint (thankfully) and this is after the primer coat.










Next decision: *PULLS!*

*PULLS are on and everything is painted!*









Yes, those are cats!









Uppers.









Lowers.

SWMBO is happy, that's all that matters. She did *all* the painting.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Kitchen drawer & front replacement *
> 
> Fall 2019 I replaced the old, black slab, kitchen doors with nicer farmhouse doors with bead board inserts.
> 
> ...





> I *needed to reuse* the (cheap) drawer 3/4 extension slide hardware.
> - Madmark2












*Solly Hhit*...if we're on the same page… *YOU DO NOT*!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Buffer storage box (in process -- no pics yet but stay tuned)*

For those following this blog you know that I make smoking pipes. Toward that end I've been looking for a way to put a really high polish on them, esp. the mouthpiece area. Grizzly just came out with a ($110 + S&H) 4"/6" mini buffer that looked just the thing.

It came and is a very nice little unit. Its a surprisingly heavy casting and motor:









Grizzly T32004 mini buffer

One of the nice features is you have both a "rpm to zero" off switch, but there is a separate, environmentally sealed rocker switch. This way you can leave the speed knob dialed in and control the motor without changing speed. A nice little touch.

Setup was trivial, just install the drive cones (L & R) and tighten each down with two setscrews using the supplied 2mm allen wrench. Spin the two supplied 4" wheels on and you're ready to roll.

I had also bought a stick of polishing compound and left one cotton wheel clean and put the compound on the other. I then proceeded to run a few scraps of different species thru both with and without compound or paste wax.

The speed control is smooth and varies from 2000 to 7000 rpm. Its fun to watch the cotton wheels narrow and firm up as the rpm's peak. The motor spins easily and relatively quiet throughout the speed range.

Besides doing a nice job on the mouth pieces I noticed that the wheels slung polishing compound and lint everywhere near the wheel.

Not having surplus bench space for this little gem and not wanting to strew polish and crap everywhere I decided what was needed was a *BOX!* And not just any box, but a carry box! Oh the glorious visions that danced in my head, and soon after landed on paper.

The thought was (is) to use piano hinges to connect the front to the top and the top to the back. This should give a fold up door effect (think Snapon toolbox lid) allowing full access when opened and a reasonably dust tight storage box when closed, all the while containing the debris and allowing easy storage. Like I said "oh what a box!" LOL

The box is made from 1/2" ply and is screwed and glued along the bottom/back seam. The rest of the construction is 1" #6 flat head Phillips wood screws. This means all of the carry weight is borne by horizontal screws for strength as the buffer is a heavy little sucker.

One problem with the documentation is that there is no mounting hole diagram. The location of the holes in the curves of the casting make measuring from the top more of a guesstimate than a measurement. On the bottom the factory rubber feet obscured the mounting holes so again exact measurements were impossible. I didn't want to remove the feet as they will reduce transmitting vibration.

Griz did mention that the mounting holes were #10 and I ordered 4 ea 2" #10-32 allen head SS cap screws with washers and nyloc nuts. I like to use nyloc nuts over regular nuts and lockwashers esp. in vibrating environments.

So the mounting of the buffer to the base was a little "fuzzy". Naturally the first screw went right in and tightened enough to act as a 3rd hand for the remaing ones. After a little wallowing I got all four allen cap screws in and tight.

I had originally drilled the cord hole in the center of the back, but after mounting this became problematic and there was just no way for the plug to fit thru the original hole given the limited space. So I drilled a 2nd hole up and to the right so the plug and cord can be fed in and out when needed.

The sides are screwed to both the bottom and back in 5 places. This is so the storage box can be lifted by folding handles on the side without the bottom wanting to drop out. I can't mount a lifting handle on the top as the top would just open and 1/2" ply is too thin to support a latch. For general closure I bought a couple of extra strength magnetic door catches that are going in the lower inside front corners to keep the front from flapping open and spilling any accessories in the process.

Because the mounting bolt ends and nuts come out the bottom I added four corner rubber feet. There are secured with 1" 6-32 SS allen cap screws mounted in drilled & tapped holes. Since the 1/2" of thread only has to carry the weight of the rubber feet I figured I could safely tap plywood.

Its almost complete with just the piano hinges and handles left to go.

Pics in a bit …


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Buffer storage box (in process -- no pics yet but stay tuned)*
> 
> For those following this blog you know that I make smoking pipes. Toward that end I've been looking for a way to put a really high polish on them, esp. the mouthpiece area. Grizzly just came out with a ($110 + S&H) 4"/6" mini buffer that looked just the thing.
> 
> ...


Agree that these small buffs are great for little pieces…

Shame you didn't post this 6 months ago, before I bought my *Foredom*,








at 2x the cost…
It's a pleasant step down from my single speed, 1450 RPM grinder, 8" buffer.

At least if *HF* are short on spares and consumable, Foredom may provide a "costlier" solution (if desperate).

Did I hear you volunteer in doing a formal review?... for those a little more frugal than me (with our limited Aussie availability).


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Buffer storage box (in process -- no pics yet but stay tuned)*
> 
> For those following this blog you know that I make smoking pipes. Toward that end I've been looking for a way to put a really high polish on them, esp. the mouthpiece area. Grizzly just came out with a ($110 + S&H) 4"/6" mini buffer that looked just the thing.
> 
> ...


I'm planning on writing a review here and on the Grizzly site …


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Buffer storage box (in process -- no pics yet but stay tuned)*
> 
> For those following this blog you know that I make smoking pipes. Toward that end I've been looking for a way to put a really high polish on them, esp. the mouthpiece area. Grizzly just came out with a ($110 + S&H) 4"/6" mini buffer that looked just the thing.
> 
> ...


I see it is a universal motor (brush caps). You mention "relatively" quiet. Is this compact router quiet or shop vac quiet (hope for the former 8^)?

Looks much nicer than using a 6" grinder platform which takes up a lot of space.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Cat proof screen porch*

The screen porch screens have seen better days. They're at least 15 years old and showing their age.

Where we live in fla development is displacing natural habitat of all sorts of critters - including what appears to be Florida panthers. Big tawny cats are regularly spotted in this area and last fall one of our kitties got out and met an untimely end.

Since then the porch has been off limits for both kitties and puppies. Seeing the cats longing for the outside got me thinking of ways to inexpensively allow porch access just for the cats while not permitting actual outdoor access.

I put a cat door in one of the kitchen windows that opens onto the porch.









In side after SWMBO painted. (Painting is NOT one of my skill sets!)









Cat flap from kitchen window.

The cat door used allowed variable mounting thickness from effectively zero to 1-3/8" thick. The bottom of the sliding portion of the window has a 1/2" gap on the bottom that fit perfectly over 1/2" ply.

The ply was cut 3/4" wider than the opening to allow the sides to be covered by the aluminum window frame.

The plywood had to have the upper corners notched 1"x1" to leave room for the spring counterweight. The notches were cut on the band saw.

I used the scrollsaw to cut the cat flap opening. We'd purchased a magnetic flap that I just traced the outline of to dimension the opening. The upper corners meet at 90° while the lower corners are rounded with about a 3/4" or 1" radius.

Once the basic opening was cut, a little touchup with 120 grit 5" ROS perfected the fit. A 1" sanding cylinder in the hand drill helped contour the round corners.

The door inside and out was secured to the 1/2" ply by 4, #6 1/2" wood screws, one in each corner.

The 1/2" ply containing the door was installed in the opening and the sliding portion of the window was drilled and screwed to prevent an intruder opening the window fully for access. The ply fit into the slot on the bottom of the window snugly with little room for movement.

The outside of the ply was shimmed to fill in the track and prevent the door panel being moved to either side. Again for physical security.

In addition we lined the inside of the porch screens with 72" tall chicken wire. This will cover any existing push-outs or tears in the screens.

I bought a box of 1/2" self drilling/tapping screws with wide flanges. This allowed "point & shoot" metal screw attachment of the wire mesh to the existing aluminum screen frame.

Every foot or so there is a expansion limiting wire that prevents over extending the mesh. As luck would have it one of these wires fell reasonably close to the center of the horizontal struts. Using this as a reference we were able to quickly and neatly locate the mesh and screw it in place.









Lets see the cats get thru *THAT!*

A friends dog had crashed out the midsection of the screen door. We'd previously installed expanded metal mesh to prevent both cats and larger dogs from busting out (or anything else from coming in!)

A couple minutes with yellow (straight) aviation snips were all that was required to trim to fit.

The bottom of the wire was intentionally left a couple inches long to allow face screwing to the base plate. However the stiffness of the wire fileted at the floor makes it unlikely that the kitties can "dig" under it. But the LFB's (Little Furry [email protected]@rds) are pretty clever - we'll see.

We showed the dominant Tom the flap and after a couple of shoves he figured out both how to get in & out. He'll teach the others by example.

*Matls:*

72" x 50' chicken wire - $55
magnetic cat flap - $25
self tapping washer head 1/2" screws - $8 bx/100
1/2" ply - shop scrap
2'x2' expanded metal mesh - 2 @ $22 ea

*Matl. Total: $132*

*Labor:*

2 hrs shop for door install
1 hr x 2 ppl for wire mesh install

*Labor Total: 4 hrs @ $20 / hr = $80

Project Cost: $212*

*PS:*
Initially the cats clawed at the bottom of the chicken wire that we hadn't fully attached to the base. A few screws later and the problem was resolved. The kitties love the freedom to come and go as they please and that there is no way for the dogs can get into the cattery.

SWMBO was worried that the fuzzes would be out there 100% of the time but thats not the case. They stayed out a lot at first but once the novelty wore off they're back to their usual selves.

The final benefit is that the cat box is now in the cattery and out of the house proper. The cats don't seem to mind and cleanout is easier.


----------



## jeffswildwood (Dec 26, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Cat proof screen porch*
> 
> The screen porch screens have seen better days. They're at least 15 years old and showing their age.
> 
> ...


Very nice idea to let the kitties get some fresh air. It won't take long for them to get the hang of that cat door. Good idea to have the bottom attached tightly. I have to ask though, is there a way to keep them from going out the top? Does it go to the roof? We have a fence around our garden to keep the deer out and our tom cat went in and climbed the fence to get out, going over the top of a seven foot fence.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Cat proof screen porch*
> 
> The screen porch screens have seen better days. They're at least 15 years old and showing their age.
> 
> ...


The chicken wire is 6' and the screens are 7'+ so there is a gap up top. But the top screens are in better shape than the bottoms. We've got wire to spare, if they get over the top I'll just have to extend the top.

So far (less than 24 hours) the dominant Tom is in and out like a shot and two of the other kitties have figured it out.

SWMBO is setting up a play area with beds and toys for them out there.

Happy kitties, happy wife, happy life.


__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Cat proof screen porch*
> 
> The screen porch screens have seen better days. They're at least 15 years old and showing their age.
> 
> ...


some moggie lovers go all out! ... look at this construction I did for a friend




























both units were interconnected so their cat could leave the house stay on the verandah or transit down a ramp to the ground all enclosed and feral safe.Dont seem tp have a completed picture showing it alll


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Prism Stand*

Bought SWMBO a crystal equilateral prism. Its 8" by 1-3/8" on each side.









8" crystal equilateral prism.

Unfortunately it didn't come with a stand or any way of mounting it. We have cats so just sitting it on the window sill will wind up with it broken on the tile floor. Clearly a stand is needed.

To get a prism to refract the light you need to hold it at just the right angle. So the stand needs to let the prism rotate to the proper angle for optimum effect.









Prism rotates in stand.

I used some sapele for the ends and jatoba for the base. Again I got to use the *Fast-Joint Mini* with the *HEART* template.









HEART pattern.

The base is 8-1/2" x 2-3/8" x 3/4" (nom). The ends are 4" x 2-3/8" x 1/2". The 2-3/8" dimension was chosen because it is exactly two multiples of the *HEART* pattern on the *Fast-Joint Mini* jig.

The end recesses are centered on the ends. I had to buy a 1-5/8" carbide forstner bit to drill the ends. I did a bunch of cipher'n trying to figure out the correct diameter and after cuss'n & fuss'n for 1/2 hour or so I had a "Doh!" moment and used my circle template to figure out the right size hole.

When I laid out the holes I also drew the outer radius.

Once the ends were drilled the bottom of the ends were routed with the *HEART* pattern pins. After routing, the ends were rounded on the scrollsaw (I'm getting more comfortable with that tool) and then sanded as a pair on the OBS.

The base was routed with the matching tail. All the pieces went together with hand pressure.










All the pieces were sanded at 120 grit. The faces that will be inaccessible after assembly were sanded at 220 grit. All layout lines were sanded away and burrs eliminated.

One end was glued and held for a minute by hand to let the glue grab. The glue was spread and the prism inserted. The other end was inserted, holding the prism in place. The assembly was clamped for an hour to let the glue dry.

Out of the clamps it was sanded again at 120 grit for fit and 220 grit for finish.

The bottom was date stamped and shop marked. Two slatherings of Johnson's Paste Wax were used as finish. Felt feet completed the project.









Its not complete without feet!


----------



## HowardAppel (Feb 3, 2010)

Madmark2 said:


> *Prism Stand*
> 
> Bought SWMBO a crystal equilateral prism. Its 8" by 1-3/8" on each side.
> 
> ...


Very very cool.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Madmark2 said:


> *Prism Stand*
> 
> Bought SWMBO a crystal equilateral prism. Its 8" by 1-3/8" on each side.
> 
> ...


Nice all the way around.


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Prism Stand*
> 
> Bought SWMBO a crystal equilateral prism. Its 8" by 1-3/8" on each side.
> 
> ...


I have a collection of prisms like that that I scavenged from large, old copiers. Really cool to just play with and look at, but certainly entropy will prevail.

This is a cool display solution MM!


----------



## CommonJoe (May 8, 2021)

Madmark2 said:


> *Prism Stand*
> 
> Bought SWMBO a crystal equilateral prism. Its 8" by 1-3/8" on each side.
> 
> ...


Is that glass or plastic?
What does it do?


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Prism Stand*
> 
> Bought SWMBO a crystal equilateral prism. Its 8" by 1-3/8" on each side.
> 
> ...


Its optical grade crystal glass. It diffracts white light into a rainbow. Makes a pretty splash of color when placed in a sunny spot.









A prism diffracts white light into the rainbow spectrum.


----------



## CommonJoe (May 8, 2021)

Madmark2 said:


> *Prism Stand*
> 
> Bought SWMBO a crystal equilateral prism. Its 8" by 1-3/8" on each side.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the explanation.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Prism Stand*
> 
> Bought SWMBO a crystal equilateral prism. Its 8" by 1-3/8" on each side.
> 
> ...


I liked this so much that I ordered some to make something for the grandkids.


----------



## awsum55 (Jan 3, 2017)

Madmark2 said:


> *Prism Stand*
> 
> Bought SWMBO a crystal equilateral prism. Its 8" by 1-3/8" on each side.
> 
> ...


Very cool, I see a bunch of these being made. Who doesn't feel something nice when they see a rainbow.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Walnut and Spanish Humidor with Hydrometer & C° gauge*

Used to smoke cigars, but after my 3rd MI, 4th stent & pacemaker its mostly a memory. Never smoked enough to make buying a box of cigars worthwhile but have always wanted a humidor.









Completed project.

*Design:*
I found hydrometer's for cheap at Walmart and bought a couple.









1-3/4" x 1" LCD hydrometer with C° indicator.

I bought some Spanish cedar and I have some walnut on hand and so a plan was born.

I smoked Panatellas and they're 7" to 7"-1/2" long and a 34 to 36 gauge (17/32" to 9/16" dia).

The cedar is 5-1/4" wide (rough) so on a good day I'll be able to get a 5" wide piece. The walnut is over 6" so figuring on using ~1/4" stock yields an outer size of 8-1/2" x 6" and 3-1/2" high. The plan is to use a lexan lid.

The Spanish cedar inner liner will have the bottom raised up a bit above the outer walnut box. The idea is to perforate the cedar false bottom and leave 1/2" below the cedar bottom for better airflow

Essentially a humidor is a box inside a box. I'm building the outer walnut box first and then making a Spanish cedar inner box.

*Walnut Outer Box:*
I have a 2' length of fat 1×6 walnut with a knot and a bad check starting 2" in from one edge and running about 1/2 the length. Fortunately the dimensions I decided upon were such that I could cut the check out and minimize the knot visibility. It was an ugly knot with chunks missing and not really suitable for being featured.

The full thickness pieces were resawn to 11/32" with little scrap.









Resaw setup, blade is up 1-3/4" and fence is 11/32"









Sides/end pieces resawn. Bottom is wider and needs 2nd pass to complete.

The slabs were crosscut to length and grooved for the lid. Since the thickness wasn't controlled, and I usually set the lexan lid dado to half the side thickness, I needed to precisely measure the side thickness and set the blade height to half that.









Material is 0.3675" thick, blade is set to 0.184".

One end dado is 3/32" to match the lexan thickness and will give a snug fit. The side dados are 1/8" for easy sliding. The remaining end is cut flush with the bottom of the side dados.

The thickness of the sides wasn't really critical so instead of cutting the bottom to measure, I cut it to length self referentially. First I set the miter fence stop to the length of the side. Then, using both ends as a spacer, I trimmed the bottom to length.

In the same manner I used the bottom, which had previously been cut to width, to set the miter fence stop and the cut the ends to length.









Self referential measurements gives exact fit.

The initial dry fit was spot on, but before I could glue, the 1" x 1-3/4" rectangular hole for the hydrometer needed to be made.

I started by laying out the rectangular hole in the center of the end. With a freehand drill I made a hole near the center of the layout. A little scrollsaw work roughed out the hole and the detail sander, pocket knife and file quickly perfected the fit.









From layout to final fit.

Now that the hole has been cut its time to sand the interior side of the pieces to 120 grit. Since the interior will have a cedar inner lining the interior finish isn't critical.









Insides are sanded.

To get the "right" amount of glue I run a bead and then level it with a piece of scrap lexan. This gives an even, 100% coverage, layer with little squeezeout.









The "right" amount of glue gives 100% coverage with just a little squeezeout.

The day ends with the outer walnut box under clamps.









Under clamps overnight.

*Spanish cedar interior:*

In the morning the glue was completely dry.

The outside was sanded to 120 grit and the lexan lid was cut to fit.









Lexan lid is all but invisible when closed.

The leading edge of the lexan had a bevel sanded into one side. The corners were sanded to about a 1/8" radius to make insertion easier. The bevel rides up on the edge of the end dado and presses the lexan up into the dado holding it in place.

The fit on the lid is just right. Loose enough to slide easily yet latches into place and holds when fully closed. The lexan is 3/32" in a 1/8" dado so the air migration path is very limited

Thinking about it, the interior didn't have to be built as a glued up box. Rather the Spanish cedar could be cut as if for a box, but just inserted and glued to the inside of the existing walnut box. This greatly simplified construction.

The Spanish cedar lining was sanded smooth to 120 grit. The inside top edges were eased to prevent snagging on the cigar wrappers. The Spanish cedar is left unfinished so it can breathe.

The Spanish cedar floor is propped up on a couple of spacers made from a scrap of sapele. These were sized to set the top edge of the Spanish cedar floor to be even with the bottom of the hygrometer opening.









Hygrometer hole is level with floor.

A pattern of 5/8" holes was drilled on an 1-1/2" grid in the Spanish cedar floor to allow air movement under and around the cigars.

The floor was left floating, held in place by the two end liner pieces.

The liner sides go full depth but the liner ends stop at the top of the floor.

The outside is final sanded to 220 grit. I'm out of poly so I'm just going to slather it with wax (outside only) until I can restock.

The bottom is stamped with the shop stamp and dated.









All done but finish.

After a couple slatherings of Johnson's Paste Wax the finished humidor appears as:









Smokin'!

*Materials:*

Hydrometer - $7 
Walnut - 1 bf @ *$25/bf* = $25 (Rockler pricing)
Spanish cedar - 1/2 bf @ *$56/bf* = $28 (Rockler pricing)
Lexan - $5
Sapele cleats - shop stock
Felt feet - 4 @ $0.06 ea. = $0.25

*Total:* $65.25

*Labor: *

Walnut box - 2 hrs @ $20/hr = $40
Cedar liner - 1-1/2 hrs @ $20/hr = $30

*Project Totals:* $65.25 + $70 = $135

*MSRP: $269.99*

*PS:*
Looking at it on the shelf it looked good but was a little … meh. It needed something and that something is a bead and a half along the bottom edge. It gave it a bit of lightness and elegance it sorely needed. What do *you* think?









A little detail adds a lot, no?


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut and Spanish Humidor with Hydrometer & C° gauge*
> 
> Used to smoke cigars, but after my 3rd MI, 4th stent & pacemaker its mostly a memory. Never smoked enough to make buying a box of cigars worthwhile but have always wanted a humidor.
> 
> ...


Nicely done !


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut and Spanish Humidor with Hydrometer & C° gauge*
> 
> Used to smoke cigars, but after my 3rd MI, 4th stent & pacemaker its mostly a memory. Never smoked enough to make buying a box of cigars worthwhile but have always wanted a humidor.
> 
> ...


Looks easy to build but fully functional, the lid really saves on the spendy hinges and the work involved in installing them 8^)

My interest was piqued when you showed these meters a few days back. I searched the local WallyWorld but no dice (I did see them on Amazon however).

Do they seem properly calibrated?

Of course the pessimist in me thinks it will crap out and you wont be able to find a replacement to properly fill the hole, but that's just me 8^)

Fine work!


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut and Spanish Humidor with Hydrometer & C° gauge*
> 
> Used to smoke cigars, but after my 3rd MI, 4th stent & pacemaker its mostly a memory. Never smoked enough to make buying a box of cigars worthwhile but have always wanted a humidor.
> 
> ...


Thats why I bought *TWO!*

Walmart link is HERE

Calibration I know not. There doesn't seem to be anything to adjust. They respond quickly when cupped in the hand and blown on.

The lexan shows off the cigars. It also fits snugly in the slots and should have low air exchange.

I try to avoid metal wherever and whenever possible. Hinged lids have all sorts of issues primary of which is they're damn near impossible to mount on 1/4" stock. If you know of any that will mount in 1/4" stock let me know. And I don't mean surface mount.


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut and Spanish Humidor with Hydrometer & C° gauge*
> 
> Used to smoke cigars, but after my 3rd MI, 4th stent & pacemaker its mostly a memory. Never smoked enough to make buying a box of cigars worthwhile but have always wanted a humidor.
> 
> ...


I hear ya re. the hinges! Only solution I have found for thin stock is to go through the sides (pins, knife hinges, etc.)

I like how you priced out based on Rockler wood pricing, narrows the profit margin for when the tax man commeth (if they are really desperate 8^)

What do you have in mind for humidification?


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut and Spanish Humidor with Hydrometer & C° gauge*
> 
> Used to smoke cigars, but after my 3rd MI, 4th stent & pacemaker its mostly a memory. Never smoked enough to make buying a box of cigars worthwhile but have always wanted a humidor.
> 
> ...


They have humidity packet you put in the humidor and it holds the setting. I had thought of putting a sponge under the floor but I didn't have one the right size and I didn't want to block the air holes.

I've got enough of everything to build a 2nd one.

I was thinking of taking it to a smoke shop and buying a few cigars to make it functional instead of decorative. At the same time get some feedback if this kind of thing could sell.


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut and Spanish Humidor with Hydrometer & C° gauge*
> 
> Used to smoke cigars, but after my 3rd MI, 4th stent & pacemaker its mostly a memory. Never smoked enough to make buying a box of cigars worthwhile but have always wanted a humidor.
> 
> ...


I'm familiar with the packets, good solution.

The prices of cheap import humidor boxes at these shops are typically ridiculous, if not down right absurd. Vinyl veneers over particle board.

Even if they demand a 50% commission, you'd still be able to make a nice profit and offer the buyers something that actually has value.


----------



## jake6105 (Jan 14, 2020)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut and Spanish Humidor with Hydrometer & C° gauge*
> 
> Used to smoke cigars, but after my 3rd MI, 4th stent & pacemaker its mostly a memory. Never smoked enough to make buying a box of cigars worthwhile but have always wanted a humidor.
> 
> ...


That's a fine looking humidor. Thanks for sharing your build, I have been putting off starting one up of my own and now I've got a bit more motivation.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Jatoba Strong Box Finished!*

Friend asked me to build a cash box. Something small enough to fit under a bed but still capable of holding *significant* amounts of cash in a neat and orderly fashion.

Strong boxes have a long history. They are often metal banded and reinforced and are designed to resist attack. Being wood, fire can breach the structure. However, being a paper money storage strong box, fire will destroy the contents, defeating the purpose.









Completed Strong Box.

*Build details below …*

I tried to think of every potential attack, sawing, smashing, prying, dropping, etc. I think this strong box will hold up until the point of destruction. The strong box is heavy, has sharp edges, has no provision for being carried, is dark and designed to be low profile and generally impossible to open without the key.

I came up with this detailed, precision drafted, master plan:








Detailed CAD drawing.

The project was built in two parts. The interior bill till and the main strong box.

*Interior Bill Till:*
Inside the box has a removable four slot bill till. Each till opening is 6-1/4" by 2-3/8" and 3" deep. The till is 3-1/4" x 6-3/4" x 12-1/4". The end pieces had 1-1/8" holes drilled 1" down as lifting points. The interior dividers have sanded finger spaces on top for easier access.

The till was made from 1/4" thick clear pine from resawn "one by" stock. A total of 11 pieces comprise the till. The pieces were sanded to 220 and edges were rounded slightly before glue up. After glue up the till was again sanded with 220 and the edges and corners broken slightly.

The till was finished with two coats of 50%-50% poly/mineral spirits applied with disposable foam brushes. A third coat of full strength poly is the final finish. The till needed a protective coat more than a cosmetic finish so there was no sanding between coats.









Bill till - designed to hold 5, 100 bill stacks per slot.

*Strong Box:*
The box is full 7/8" thick jatoba, 15-1/2" long. The top, sides and one end are full 8" high. The bottom is 7-1/8" wide for a full width of 8-7/8".

The top is rabbeted on three sides and fits into matching dados with 1/32" to spare. The top is fitted snugly and level with the top. The rabbets were made with the two cuts at 90° method. The dados were 15/62" square and cut on the TS.









First dry fit.

After the box was dry fit with the 1/4-20 bolts the tolerances on the lid went to zero and the lid was immovable. After I shaved 1/32" off the top it became a perfect fit. No real gap but slidable (after waxing). The box was sanded flush to 220.

The center of the top has a low profile finger pull mortised in to make it easier to open but still essentially flat. The lid fit is snug and there isn't a fingernail gap anywhere. The pull can only be used to open the sliding lid and cannot be used as a lift. I had thought about adding end handles but the goal is to make it harder, not easier, to carry.

The top was initially long because of the dado. It was trimmed and sanded flush before the slot for the lock was cut.

All five fixed parts of the box are attached to each other with both glue and a series of two dozen 1/4-20 1-1/4" long SS allen head machine screws. The machine screws are countersunk and back filled with JB Weld to prevent removal.

The screws are offset slightly to 5/8" from the outside edge, instead of the 7/16" nominal center on the 7/8" stock, to put more meat between the outside and the bolts. After all, the box doesn't have to resist blowing the inside out. I say "nominal" because the jatoba is being used full thickness as supplied and not planed to a specific dimension.









Initial rough fitting.

Just finished tapping the 22 1/4-20×1-1/4" bolt holes. It was supposed to be 24 but a snapped drill and a snapped tap plugged two of the holes. The holes were drilled in stages. First the holes were laid out 5/8" in from the outside edges and piloted with a 1/16" bit. The box was dry fit and the pilot holes were extended into the mating piece. The pilot holes were redrilled to full depth in the mating pieces.

Then the holes were countersunk 3/8" deep and dia. The box was dry fit and a couple holes drilled with a #7 pilot. These holes were threaded and the countersunk piece was thru drilled to 1/4". The box was screwed together and the process repeated for all 22 usable holes.

Two of the bolts couldn't be installed because of the broken tap and drill bits stuck below the surface. (Sigh.) But I'll just fill the two empties with JB Weld to look like the others so no one will know (except YOU, my dear readers, and I know YOU won't tell! LOL!)


I drilled and tapped 22, 1/4-20 holes, 1" deep. Tapping a 1/4 turn at a time with a wrench is 4 turns a rotation times 20 threads is 80 quarter turns to tap. 1760 quarter turns later there is a reason my shoulder is achy!

One of the things that makes the box hard to carry is its weight (~30# empty) and the intentionally sharp edges. Without handles its a grunt to grab.









Its *HEAVY*!

Someone pointed out that a portable hand saw could easily cut thru the box. To thwart that I mortised 1" x 1/4" steel bars into three inside faces, both side and the non-lock end. This should break the teeth off any blade as well as add more weight (2-1/2#).

*Lock:*
I gave a lot of thought to selecting the lock. Various types of high security locks were considered, round keys, half circle (unduplicatable) keys, magnetic keys, etc. Most of them are designed to be thru mounted in sheet metal and require a D-hole. Since a bored hole in wood doesn't have anti-rotation flats, the D-lock can be grabbed with pliers or a wrench and physically rotated, turning the entire lock 90°, defeating the security. To prevent this a lock is needed that mounts with a flange on one side to stop rotation attacks.









Desk lock and keys.

A desk deadbolt is installed in the short end. Even if the top is sawn in half the lock will keep it from moving. The lock is a five tumbler, uniquely keyed unit. It mounts with a pair of #6 1/2" screws in the jatoba. The face of the lock is recessed slightly. The lock spec sheet says mount thickness max is 7/8" (which is where the jatoba is) but the actual physical lock barrel is only 13/16" long so it finishes out as recessed 1/16" so there is no projection at all.

A slot is cut in the lid with a biscuiter for the tongue on the lock. The slot was cut double wide to make it easier for the lock to catch. An 1/8" piece of scrap was used to offset the tool for the 2nd cut. This is a fast "no measure" technique. I keep assorted known thickness small scraps kicking around for just this purpose.

I goofed on the lock install and piloted the holes on the face. It looks a little odd and I'm thinking of adding a decoration to cover the goof and make it a feature.









Oops!

*Trunk Hardware:*
The bottom four corners are fitted with black powder coated trunk corners to protect against someone trying to smash it open. The corners are attached with black head screws.

Because of the sliding lid, the top cannot use trunk corners. So I'm using four black powder coated edge bumpers mounted just below the dado. This will prevent breaking the box at the ends. Mounted, again, with more of the same black hardware.









After first coat of 50%-50% poly/ms mix.

The top gets an inset pull. The fit of the top is so tight there is not even a gap you can get a fingernail into. The pull had to be mortised in. I did a test on a piece of scrap with my new plunge router. You can see the holding jig made from scraps, clamps, an assembly corner and the fence. Most of my jigs are temporary like this and get built and torn down out of scraps as needed.









Ad hoc routing jig.

I got all set up to cut the mortise and went to put the bit into the router only to discover I didn't have a 1/4" shank straight cutter (sigh.) So I ordered what was available (3/8" x 1", non-plunge) for pickup locally. Well one thing leads to another, they didn't have the bit I wanted for plunging. So that led me to having to drill some flat bottomed starter holes to drop the bit into instead in of plunging down into the surface directly.









Test mortise needed hole to plunge into since bit wouldn't!

After all that when I went to inset the handle I misread my marks and really boogered the mortise. Trying to fill it in would look like the bad patch it would be. To make matters worse the mortise was off center.

I decide to do a big purpleheart inlay as a "decoration" to cover the botch. Cutting the inlay slot with the TS and getting a *perfect* fit with the Incra was easy. The inlay dimensions were dead on and had a gentle rubber mallet fit once the glue was added.

I flattened the bottom of the inlay dado with the detail "finger" sander. Its just the right tool for cleaning the bottom of TS dados.

My scrap for the patch is what I call 1/4" (0.252") and I cut the dado at 0.241" to leave the inlay ~0.010" proud. This makes sanding easier than if the dado were 0.010" too deep.

The inlay now appears as:









Its an architectural detail. That's my story an' I'm stick'n to it!

I'll tell the cust its part of the design for strength. The crossing inlay helps protect the lid from splitting lengthwise.

*Anti-Chainsaw:*
To frustrate someone with a chain saw the inside of both sides and one end have been reinforced with lengths of 1" x 1/4" mild steel bars. The sides are laid out so the bars hit between the 1/4-20 screw holes.

I bought a 36" length of bar stock. It cut slowly but cleanly on my jig saw with the appropriate "thick metal" cutting blade. I put a drop of 3-in-1 oil on the cut lines to ease cutting.

Holes were drilled in the bars for the mounting screws on the drill press, again with a little oil to ease the drilling. The holes were started dry until the bit started to cut and the oil was added a couple of times. Once the holes were drilled they were chamfered for flat head wood screws.

The bars were put in place and outlined. The outline was drilled with a forstner bit to provide several starting points and to hog out some of the bulk material. The rest was cleaned out with the router.









Anti-chainsaw bar installation.


[email protected]#$%&() router collet started to slip during one of the cuts, fortunately I noticed before it got out of hand. I had cranked down on the collet but is is single wrench with lock button and I guess I hadn't torqued the bit down tight enough. After some blue language and a grunt the collet was *tight*.

The pieces were glued and the screws power driven in - hard. You can see the difference between the initial glue drops and after being spread to 100% coverage. Once the glue squeezeout was cleaned up the heads are clogged & filled with JB Weld to prevent backout.









Final glue up and bolt backfill.

Since JB Weld is runny at first I had to fill one side at a time. Its a real mess and gets everywhere and it smears! (Blecch!) Fortunately I had put a slop coat of poly on before the JB Weld. This kept the JB Weld from getting deep into the pores and once it was dry it sanded off without a trace (other than where it was supposed to be.)









JB Weld mess sanded right off.

The top of the JB Weld was a little rough where it was sanded flat and shiny where it was a little shallow. But the poly evened the epoxy finish out. The epoxy looks like conventional walnut plugs.

The bottom corners had to be rounded to fit properly into the trunk corners. Any irregularities will be covered.









Looks like walnut plugs.

*Final Steps:*
The till rests on four 3/4" x 2" corner posts, 2-3/4" tall. Sloped spacers keep the till centered and allow access to the finger holes to make it easier to remove for access to the lower compartment. The space below is undivided and can easily hold additional cash or something a little more lethal - potentially very useful if the strong box is being opened under duress.

The end spacers are sloped so that if you just drop the till in place the 45° slope automatically centers the tray. This leaves the finger holes open. The slopes were cut with a 45° router chamfering bit and ripped off the edge of the wide board.









Pedestal & sloped end spacers.

Here you can see how the till moves into position when released. This also keeps the till from binding on removal. I don't know about *you,* but I hate a sticky till!









Till auto centers when dropped in place.

The till doesn't bind at all.

*Finishing:*
A slop coat of 50%-50% poly/ms coat was applied to the outside before final glueup. This helped tame any squeezeout and prevented the JB Weld from getting in the grain. The excess JB Weld sanded off with nary a trace.

Once the epoxy mess was cleaned off two additional coats of the 50%-50% poly/ms mix were applied. The inside was also finished with two coats of the 50%-50% mix.

The box was left inverted with the fans churning so it should be ready for the final coat of full strength poly tomorrow. Once that coat is done all thats left is to remount the final hardware and on from there.

*Finis:*









Hope he likes it!

*Materials*

Jatoba 1×9, 5.5 bf @ $9.95/bf - $54 + $19 shipping = $73 
Clear Pine - $10 
Drawer Lock - $12 
Trunk Corners & Trunk edge protectors - $32 
1/4-20×1-1/4 SS Allen head machine screws - 24 @ $0.40 ea. = $9.60 
Black screws for corners, edges and the pull - $10 
Mild steel flat bar, 1" x 1/4" x 36" - $8
Finger pull - $12

*Matl Total: ~$167*

*Labor: (so far)*

Bill till - 2 hrs @ $20/hr = $40
Strong box - 13 hrs @ $20/hr = $260

*Labor Total: $300*

*COGS: $467 - SOLD!*

*Misc. Shop Items Consumed:*

JB Weld 
Broken 6-32 tap
Broken #6 pilot drill
3/8" x 1" 1/4" shank router bit
glue
poly
6 foam brushes, assorted sizes

I'm sure there's more but my memory is Swiss cheese …


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Madmark2 said:


> *Jatoba Strong Box Finished!*
> 
> Friend asked me to build a cash box. Something small enough to fit under a bed but still capable of holding *significant* amounts of cash in a neat and orderly fashion.
> 
> ...


it looks like a real nice box, but I personally would not store money like that.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Jatoba Strong Box Finished!*
> 
> Friend asked me to build a cash box. Something small enough to fit under a bed but still capable of holding *significant* amounts of cash in a neat and orderly fashion.
> 
> ...


Yeah, and everyone carries one. Its designed with the option of thru bolt holes for floor mount. If you cut into it and encounter one of those two dozen 1/4"-20 bolts there should be sparks a-plenty!

Cust understands its wood and not steel. But for the casual thief it should be a stopper.

I previously made one out of 5/4×12 jatoba that weight 50# or so empty. The client kept guns & ammo in it and it took two people to lift it.

No one is going to get into it without making a *ton* of noise. Its the same idea as plate glass. Breaking it *is* the alarm!


----------



## HowardAppel (Feb 3, 2010)

Madmark2 said:


> *Jatoba Strong Box Finished!*
> 
> Friend asked me to build a cash box. Something small enough to fit under a bed but still capable of holding *significant* amounts of cash in a neat and orderly fashion.
> 
> ...


I want the cash.


----------



## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

Madmark2 said:


> *Jatoba Strong Box Finished!*
> 
> Friend asked me to build a cash box. Something small enough to fit under a bed but still capable of holding *significant* amounts of cash in a neat and orderly fashion.
> 
> ...


excellent build documentary - thanks for sharing


----------



## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

Madmark2 said:


> *Jatoba Strong Box Finished!*
> 
> Friend asked me to build a cash box. Something small enough to fit under a bed but still capable of holding *significant* amounts of cash in a neat and orderly fashion.
> 
> ...





> No one is going to get into it without making a *ton* of noise. Its the same idea as plate glass. Breaking it *is* the alarm!
> 
> "I tried to think of every potential attack"
> 
> ...


I think you missed the mark, Mark

I think using the metal "anti chainsaw" bars was redundant. 
I don't know how many thief's show up with a chain saw.

Using a three dollar lock that can be punched in in about 3 seconds?

I think anybody that would put 1/3 of a million dollars in it is Loonier than Mr. Magoo

That all said, it would be a nice box for minimal security items. 
In other words, what's the saying? It keeps an honest man honest.

Nice score on the sale.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Jatoba Strong Box Finished!*
> 
> Friend asked me to build a cash box. Something small enough to fit under a bed but still capable of holding *significant* amounts of cash in a neat and orderly fashion.
> 
> ...


It's *not* a "three dollar" lock. It's a five tumbler cut key lock that was specifically selected to not be punchable or capable of being rotated with pliers. It was the best, non-rotatable lock I could find.

The bars were added in direct response to a poster mentioning that it could be easily cut with a battery saw. And while I mentioned that not everyone carries a saw the threat was real enough to take countermeasures.

The most important safety feature is in *not* bragging to people that you're storing large amounts of cash.

The box looks good enough to be left out on a shelf as a decoration. If you put the lock side to the wall no-one will know what it is. You could tell someone that it's a *fake* "treasure chest" you found at Pier 1 Imports or at The Bombay Co. & put a lamp on it.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*5 minute camera stand*

Got a WiFi cam that came with a metal bracket that wouldn't stand on its own. Made this small hex stand out of some 4" wide scrap.

I set my miter gauge to 30° & stop block so the blade cuts just past the rough centerline. Flip & repeat and I've got a point. Set rip fence to board width and run thru with each of the bevels. Total of four cuts and perfect hex.









WiFi Cam Stand.

A quick pass with an ogee bit on the table router and the edges are profiled. You can see the inevitable tearout where the cutter ran against the grain.









Tear out.


----------



## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *5 minute camera stand*
> 
> Got a WiFi cam that came with a metal bracket that wouldn't stand on its own. Made this small hex stand out of some 4" wide scrap.
> 
> ...


Nice work Mark. 
Good technique on the hex. I gotta try that next time I need a hex.

Must have been fun shaping that size piece on the router table. 

Maybe some wood fill would work on the tear out.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *5 minute camera stand*
> 
> Got a WiFi cam that came with a metal bracket that wouldn't stand on its own. Made this small hex stand out of some 4" wide scrap.
> 
> ...


Neat thing is that it yields symmetrical diamond shapes even if the angle is off.

I used a regular push block on the router initially and, yes, it was squirmy. I got the first couple of sides done and then (carefully) switched to hand feed to finish.

It will eventually get painted and some good, thick, enamel will fill a lot of that mess.

I showed SWMBO how I found the approximate center with a pencil & no measuring.

Once the miter gauge is set and the rough center of the stock found you can belt out these by the dozens even with random widths of stock.

Thank for the feedback!


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Perfect Mitered Cube Crystal Display Case*

SWMBO is a Yankees fan and for Valentines day I got her a Waterford crystal baseball engraved with the Yankees logo. It's about 2-1/2" dia and leaded crystal.









Waterford Crystal Baseball.

There was a thread here recently about how to build a cubical bin. The OP already had a joinery method in mind but I suggested a mitered panel box. This box is made from 12 identical pieces all cut on the TS.

Each piece needs to have a 3/32" dado in two sides for the lexan panel inserts. Both ends of each piece are double mitered and assemble into a perfect cube.

I started with a piece of 1×6 about 2' long. I rIpped three 3/4" square pieces. Each piece is then dado'd 1/4" deep 7/16" in from the inside face. Once you have cut the first dado you *must* flip the piece end for end for the 2nd cut. (DAMHIKT)

Once the dados have been cut the ends of the three pieces are squared off and then cut into four equal pieces creating a total of twelve 3/4" square x 6" long blocks.

Setting my miter gauge to 45° and adjusting the stop block until the back corner just touches the kerf on my ZCI. Each end of each piece is double mitered. Each cut should have the dado facing the blade. Once both miters have been made to all 12 pieces, the miter stop is reset so the corner of the piece again is just over the ZCI again and all the other ends are double mitered. Again be sure to feed the dado face towards the blade.

You should have 12 identical pieces double mitered and pointy on both ends. Sand to 220.

Now finishing the box presents a challenge to do so without getting finish on the lexan panels. Prefinishing sounds like a good idea, but final sanding would ruin it.

Glue up has to be done in stages. Make sure you have a bunch of lexan scraps to hold the pieces in alignment while gluing. A small brush is needed to spread the glue to 100% coverage without getting any glue in the dados.

Use an assembly corner take any three pieces, and keeping the dados to the inside form a corner. Use pieces of lexan to hold the pieces in place while the glue dries. Make a total of three, 3 piece corners.

Glue two of the remaining pieces into a 90°. The 12th piece is set aside for now.

While the glue is drying this is a good time to cut the six lexan panels. All are cut identical squares about 1" smaller than the length of the sides. The saw may leave a burr on the edges making the lexan hard to insert. I eased the edges with 220 grit on the ROS.

Once the glue has dried on all three corners and the 90° piece, it's time to start assembling. Take two of the three piece corners and insert a piece of lexan prior to gluing. Once these pieces have set two more lexan pieces are inserted and the 3rd corner added.

The 90° piece is glued in with the lexan in place. Both remaining lexan pieces should be inserted until the glue sets.

The 12th piece is ripped on the dado line. Save both pieces. The thick piece is glued in place holding the back in place. Make sthat the top of this piece is glued even or just below the side dados.

The lexan piece for the top should have two adjacent corners rounded to about a 3/32" radius (not critical, round by eye) and the edges eased to make it easier to insert and slide.

Leaving the top piece of lexan sticking out slightly as a spacer, use the remaining cutoff from the 12th piece and glue it just above the sliding lexan to complete the box.

Once the glue is fully set the outside was sanded to 220 on the ROS.

I had some mirrored lexan that was cut to fit inside the sides. One piece was used on the bottom and the other on the back. The mirrored lexan is attached to the sides with double stick tape.

After cleaning the sawdust out the piece now appears as:









Mirror reflection adds depth.









3/4 view.

Plan is to add LED lighting and a stand to better show off the crystal.

SWMBO has previously criticized my finishing skills so I told her she could apply whatever finish she wanted.

*Update 10SEP21:*
Here is pic with lighting puck. Bar effect is because of strobe, not visible to naked eye.









Color change LED puck gives remote control lighting.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Perfect Mitered Cube Crystal Display Case*
> 
> SWMBO is a Yankees fan and for Valentines day I got her a Waterford crystal baseball engraved with the Yankees logo. It's about 2-1/2" dia and leaded crystal.
> 
> ...


pretty cool mark,i think you scored some points with that.


----------



## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

Madmark2 said:


> *Perfect Mitered Cube Crystal Display Case*
> 
> SWMBO is a Yankees fan and for Valentines day I got her a Waterford crystal baseball engraved with the Yankees logo. It's about 2-1/2" dia and leaded crystal.
> 
> ...





> pretty cool mark,i think you scored some points with that.
> 
> - pottz


Would you say he hit a home run or a grand slam? or that he really knocked it out of the park? it is pretty cool, and probably a lot harder than it looks to a non-woodworker to build.


----------



## gdaveg (Aug 1, 2020)

Madmark2 said:


> *Perfect Mitered Cube Crystal Display Case*
> 
> SWMBO is a Yankees fan and for Valentines day I got her a Waterford crystal baseball engraved with the Yankees logo. It's about 2-1/2" dia and leaded crystal.
> 
> ...


Mark,

Looks great.

Complicated assembly process, a third hand would have been useful.


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Perfect Mitered Cube Crystal Display Case*
> 
> SWMBO is a Yankees fan and for Valentines day I got her a Waterford crystal baseball engraved with the Yankees logo. It's about 2-1/2" dia and leaded crystal.
> 
> ...


Scored a home run, outta the park, certainly not an idea out of left field and has all the bases covered (should I continue 8^)

Nice insight into the process Mark, nothing is ever easy with compound miters and your display case looks great. The lighting idea would really make a show piece.


----------



## HowardAppel (Feb 3, 2010)

Madmark2 said:


> *Perfect Mitered Cube Crystal Display Case*
> 
> SWMBO is a Yankees fan and for Valentines day I got her a Waterford crystal baseball engraved with the Yankees logo. It's about 2-1/2" dia and leaded crystal.
> 
> ...


I am sorry, but I must:

"Whatever Lola wants, Lola gets . . ."


----------



## bndawgs (Oct 21, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Perfect Mitered Cube Crystal Display Case*
> 
> SWMBO is a Yankees fan and for Valentines day I got her a Waterford crystal baseball engraved with the Yankees logo. It's about 2-1/2" dia and leaded crystal.
> 
> ...


That turned out great. Only issue I can see is the logo on that crystal.


----------



## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Perfect Mitered Cube Crystal Display Case*
> 
> SWMBO is a Yankees fan and for Valentines day I got her a Waterford crystal baseball engraved with the Yankees logo. It's about 2-1/2" dia and leaded crystal.
> 
> ...


Grand slam Mark. The miters came out great!
A lot of planning in this one.

I'm working on a project with a lexan panel and was thinking of pre-finishing the frame but I'm know taping it. I did press the tape in good. I hope it doesn't bleed through.
I'm sure your better half will do a great job and she'll also get to contribute to your fine project..

PS great photos.


----------



## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Perfect Mitered Cube Crystal Display Case*
> 
> SWMBO is a Yankees fan and for Valentines day I got her a Waterford crystal baseball engraved with the Yankees logo. It's about 2-1/2" dia and leaded crystal.
> 
> ...


Nice display Mark. That many compound miters make most Men a little weak in the knees.

I think lit it would be really really cool to see.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Perfect Mitered Cube Crystal Display Case*
> 
> SWMBO is a Yankees fan and for Valentines day I got her a Waterford crystal baseball engraved with the Yankees logo. It's about 2-1/2" dia and leaded crystal.
> 
> ...


Thanks! It was an easy, fun project..

The miters were actually all cut with one setup just using the miter gauge with a stop. They're *NOT* compound, just two identical passes with the blade straight up. It's easier than it looks!

The key is to finish the material BEFORE you make the first cut.

Fully finish squared stock 
Rip the grooves, remembering to flip ends
Crosscut to length- not critical as long as all are "long enough", 12 pcs
set miter gauge to dead on 45°
adjust stop to length of shortest
cut all 4 miters on SLOT SIDE of each piece
glue 3 piece corners, one 2 piece L, leave last piece loose
cut 4 clear & 2 mirror lexan squares 1/16" under sized vs measured dim
glue assemblies from previous step, inserting lexan as you go.
rip last piece at dado
Glue last piece in using lexan as spacer

The light is a remote control waterproof color changing LED module modified to run off a USB charger.








$10 at SuperbrightLEDs


----------



## Woodnmetal (Jul 24, 2021)

Madmark2 said:


> *Perfect Mitered Cube Crystal Display Case*
> 
> SWMBO is a Yankees fan and for Valentines day I got her a Waterford crystal baseball engraved with the Yankees logo. It's about 2-1/2" dia and leaded crystal.
> 
> ...


Looks amazing Mark, You make it sound simple haha. 
A superb piece that should get you sliding into home plate.

Gary


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Perfect Mitered Cube Crystal Display Case*
> 
> SWMBO is a Yankees fan and for Valentines day I got her a Waterford crystal baseball engraved with the Yankees logo. It's about 2-1/2" dia and leaded crystal.
> 
> ...


TYVM!

Really, it is easier than it looks. Give it a shot the next time you have some square stock


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Perfect Mitered Cube Crystal Display Case*
> 
> SWMBO is a Yankees fan and for Valentines day I got her a Waterford crystal baseball engraved with the Yankees logo. It's about 2-1/2" dia and leaded crystal.
> 
> ...


Here is pic with lighting puck. Bar effect is because of strobe, not visible to naked eye.









Color change LED puck gives remote control lighting.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Lacewood Box with Brazilian Rosewood Tray*

SWMBO had a friend visiting us in Fla from TGWN (The Great White North) and I made this box.









SWMBO put the final finish on it.









Ready to ship.









Waiting on final finished coat of poly.

The box is from a 15/16" x 5" x 18" piece of S2S lace wood. The tray is from a 13/16" x 2" x 24" piece of Brazilian rosewood with a big worm trail about 6" from one end.

There were only two pieces of scrap from the lace wood, both from trimming the bottom to length & width. Beyond those two, small, cutoffs, all the waste from the lace wood was dust.









Lacewood box with Brazilian rosewood tray ready for finish

*Continue reading for build details:*

Starting with the above, thinner stock, was called for in the actual project. This is to maximize yield and to have the box and tray read "lighter". This is essentially a zero waste project sized to fit the avaliable single piece of lumber with as close to 100% utilization as possible. As my father would say, "You can put the scrap in your eye!"

The finished box is 6-3/8" long x 4-5/8" high x 5-1/8" wide with the tray 5-13/16" x 4-1/2" x 1-7/8"

Both pieces were resawn and then lightly planed to even out the odd 1/32". Actual box thickness wasn't critical as long as everything was even. The lace wood was split down the center and yielded two ~3/8" pieces. The rosewood was cut from both faces at 9/32" and with the TK blade I have a 1/16" piece of veneer left over. The rosewood was planed to .250".

The box was built first and then the tray to fit. The tray is spaced off the bottom by four scraps of rosewood. I put the worm track to the inside on one of the spacers so not even that went to scrap.

Since the box side thickness and width isn't specified beyond "start with even thickness and width" cutting was done "self referentially".

I started by squaring one end of both slabs. Then I set the cross cut stop to the width of the board. I just put the random width piece against the blade and moved the miter stop over. This is the maximum width of the end.

The top, at maximum width, makes the box one side thickness wider than the lid. The ends are two sides thinner than the box, or one thickness thinner than the width of the top. Since we just set the miter stop to the max width of the board (the top), we simply use one of the pieces as a spacer next to the miter stop. This automatically subtracts the correct side thickness from the crosscut no matter what the thickness actually is! One end is cut from each slab to maximize yield.

Once the ends have been cut, the remaining stock is cut into four even lengths, two from each slab. There should be little, if any, cutoffs.

Of the four equal slabs select the best piece as the top, the worst the bottom, and the last two are the sides. Select and mark best side of all pieces.

The bottom is trimmed the same way as the ends but with both ends as self referential spacers.

The ends are then used to set the rip fence to the bottom width. The bottom has to be exactly the width of the ends.

The pieces are dry fit at this point just as a sanity check. The lid is both longer and wider than the dry fit. Tweak basics as needed.

*Sliding Lid:*
The trick to getting the top essentially flush with the sides, and cutting effectively, is to correctly sequence the operations, as the top and sides interact. First, rabbet both sides of and one end of the lid with a square profile half the material thickness. The rabbet should be a few thou (~0.005") deeper than half. Not too much, or the bottom of the dado will make the sides too thin.

Without adjusting the blade depth, use the lid to set the dado spacing for the top of the sides. Set the rip fence to match the rabbet depth on the lid. It's easy to set if you have a ZCI. Put the top side of the lid against the rip fence. Move the fence over until the edge of the bottom of the rabbet aligns with the fence side of the edge of the kerf in the ZCI.

Run two sides and one end with the bad (inside) face down.

Check to see if the lid slides in the side dados. If needed, widen the two sides first & retest. If the lid slides, *DO NOT* widen the end piece rabbet. The end of the lid should NOT want to go into the end dado. if there is 1/16" or more interference between the end of the lid and the dado in the end piece, widen the end dado of the interference is about 1/32". The front lip of the lid will be sanded to fit after gluing, during final fitment.

Once the dado width is correct, raise the blade and rip thru cut the remaining end. This insures the top of the end doesn't intrude into the dado, blocking the lid. Save the cutoff as it will be attached to the lid in a later step.

*Box Assembly:*
Time for another dry fit & tweak.

Once the dry fit is good, sand the inside faces to 220.

My corner assembly jig is my locked TS fence with one of those Rockler plastic "assembly corners" and a 6" Jorgensen wood clamp. The huge surface area of the block clamp locks and releases with a quarter-turn making setup and teardown a snap. Additionally both the corner and fence can be moved away from a freshly glued piece without disturbing it.

I assemble in this order:


left side along side assembly block.
far end (tall with dado) against fence into side
bottom.
near (short) end.
right side

Everything dries for at least an hour before the clamps come off.

The outside is scraped of big glue clumps and sanded with 120.

While waiting for the glue to dry on the box, this is a good time to attach the push-to-open/close bar to the near end of the lid. Because of the dado, the lid is *always* half a side thickness too long. Subtracting 1/2 a thickness is hard to do. We know it's going to get trimmed so we glue and clamp the offcut from the near end no more than 1/16" back from the edge. Since the offcut is being glued directly over where it was cut from, try to orient it correctly. Sand off about 1/16" from the end and the round the corners and edges of the top side for finger comfort. The bottom edges, being the glue surface, should be left square and flat.

*Lid Fitment:* 
In a sliding lid box a "perfect" fit is where the lid slides easily and automatically locks in place when dropped in. The end dado is intentionally 1/32" to 1/16" narrower than the front lip of the lid. To get it to seat and hold, *slowly* fine grit sand a bevel on the lip. Test after every couple of quick passes as it's *real easy* to take too much off. Once the lip can be seated (a little gap is OK as long as the lid holds in place when upended), mark and trim most of the extra off. Leave it a little proud so the final sanding will get it dead flush with the end.










Detail of lid lip fitment.

The edge of the push/pull bar may need additional sanding.

*Tray Fab:*
The rosewood was sliced into two sides, three bottom/divider pieces, and two ends. One of the three bottom/divider pieces is ripped 1/4" off and used as both a center divider and lift grip for removing the tray.

The better sides of the rosewood was faced up or in since the interior of the tray is more visible









Rosewood grain is beautiful.

Glue up order:


left side
far end
both bottom pieces 
near end
right side

The last piece was rounded on the top and eyeballed in place and tweaked until even.

*Final Fab Touches:*
Both pieces received a decorative 1/8"R bead around the base. This adds interest and visually raises the pieces. Although the detail on the tray is seldom seen, it serves to tie the two different species together. The use of the rosewood as spacers attached to the lacewood ties the two species together. All the rosewood was oriented with the visually most interesting side inward because the inside of the tray will be seen more often. No attempt was made at grain sequencing. On the lacewood the best side was faced out, again without sequencing.

After beading, a final 220 sanding removes the bearing marks and smooths. The edges and corners are lightly chamfered with the 5" ROS to avoid splintering.

Felt feet (Always!), shop stamp and build date complete the fab portion of the project.

*Finishing:*









Fully fitted & detailed, ready for SWMBO to finish.

Truthfully, I *detest* finishing. I do it because I have to. My soft finish is just wax. Hard finish is two coats of 50%-50% poly-MS and a final coat of 100% poly. The base coats are slopped on and I don't have a lot of patience between coats.

SWMBO has previously critiqued my finishing prompting me to say "Ok, *YOU* do it!" She replied "Ok." and here we are.










Finished pics soon! (I hope!)

Two coats of 50%-50% of poly-MS mix later we've got:









Slop coats are for penetration and coverage, not finish.

After the base coats were fully dry the outside of both the box and tray were scuffed with a 220 grit sanding sponge as prep for final finish.

SWMBO just put the final coat of full strength poly on.









Pack and ship to friend is last, last step.


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Lacewood Box with Brazilian Rosewood Tray*
> 
> SWMBO had a friend visiting us in Fla from TGWN (The Great White North) and I made this box.
> 
> ...


That's a beautiful box, Mark. Great work.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Steampunk Unity Weather Station Done!*

This started out as an offshoot of my humidor project. I buy in pairs and so I had a spare hygrometer. An idea of a weather station began to form.









Unity Weather Station, on top of a table stereo, on top of an Edison Phonograph. 
Wax to Bluetooth in one century.

I call it the "unity" box because of the variety of woods:

White (maple)
Black (wenge)
Brown (walnut)
Red (purpleheart) 
Yellow (yellowheart)

I found a $12 LED module with time, indoor temp, outdoor temp, and power voltage. It can be programmed to cycle at various speeds and display more or less info. It even allows calibration of the two temp sensors and the voltage reading. Pretty cool for a little $12 unit.

The black thing projecting up in front of the Storm Glass is the indoor temperature sensor. The longer (~24") outdoor probe is routed out the back. The cord was double knotted and glued in place with some loctite adhesive. The indoor probe was held in place temporarily with a pair of wire ties as the probe mount was glued with more loctite.









$11.69 at Walmart

Here you can see both modules on the project CAD drawing.









Modules on front of box.

So now I've got time, temp, and RH% data but I wanted something a little more esoteric. I found this thing called a "storm glass" that changes from liquid to flakes and clouds up for storms. This will be projecting up from the top.









Storm Glass. From WalMart

Here is what the Storm Glass is supposed to indicate:









How it's supposed to work.

Because the layout was tight & complex (and I just got the free nanocad program working), I drew the plan in CAD.









Fuzzy CAD drawing.

All the required holes were laid out and then piloted using a jig to ensure consistency. The 1/16" pilot holes were enlarged as needed but also acted as transfer markers.

I'm sorta on a steam punk kick, and for access to the interior, the top and back are secured with stainless steel allen cap head screws. Six on top and four on the back. The wood is drilled and tapped for 6-32 machine screws.









Steampunk!

The time/temp display self dims at night but could still throw an annoying amount of light. So I added a couple of sustained push buttons. One will blank the time/temp module and the other will control a RGB multi color changing LED hidden under the storm glass. This should make a really pretty night light.

The push buttons are fancy with a glowing blue LED ring around the buttons.









$5 ea. at SuperbrightLEDs

The whole thing runs on a cheap "wall wart" 12vdc power supply. The current draw is minimal so small barrel connections will work.

The storm glass comes with a simple 2×2 bock of cheap wood with a 1-1/16" by 1/2" flat bottom hole. Between the glass itself (~31/32" dia) and the hole is a thin plastic ring. I pried it out and will reuse it in my stand. This should give the "correct" mount. The instructions for the sealed weather glass are very firm that the contents should be treated as sorta-HAZMAT if the vial is broken.

The hole for the vial is 1/2" deep but the lid is only 1/4" thick so obviously it can't directly mount. The color changing LED is 1/2" diameter and about the same high. So a total lid mount of 1" is needed. Solved with a 2×2x3/4 block of scrap glued to the underside of the top.









Mounting block.

Time to cut the panel holes.

Hole cutting went great. I'm getting better at scroll sawing, but am still having issues with the lower blade clamp.

One of the modules dropped in after light cleanup with 80 grit on the 1" nose sander (a wonderful gadget for things like this). The other took a bit of rasp filing in the corners but went in easily.









Out of the clamps after panel cutting. Finishing next.

50%-50% poly-MS mix is "flooded" on for maximum penetration and fewest "holidays".









After first soak of 50%-50% poly the colors are great!

I'm waiting on the 1-1/16" forstner to drill the hole for the storm glass, so more to come.

Bit arrived today. When I checked in the original hole it seemed a hair loose. [email protected]#$%&() hole is metric! I drilled it and the plastic collar wanted to buckle when I tried to insert it. It went in, but wouldn't seat. Hrrumpf! Try as I might, I couldn't get the storm glass to seat.

Soo … I pulled the collar out and used loctite adhesive to mount the Storm Glass. A small bead around the hole worked and looks fine.

Friggin' giant LED wasn't the size the Chinese data sheet said nor was it the same size of the one I used to size the hole. Gel superglue acted as filler and doesn't show.

I got everything wired and tested and it all worked. All the wiring was soldered and covered with heat shrink tubing (Factory don't use no steenkin' electrical tape!).

Everything worked on the first try and looks both steampunk and Fronk-en-STEEN!









Ready for final assembly.

Completed project. Time/temp is set to sequence every five seconds. The color changing LED cycles at its own pace (they come in two unspecified speeds, slow and fast.)









Steampunk unity weather station.









Pretty cool! And it sorta matches my table stereo project.

*Details:*

RH% gauge - $8
Time/Temp indicator -‐ $12
Storm Glass thing - $22
Lighted push buttons, 2 @ $5 ea. - $10
Power Jack & plug - $7
Wall Wart (on hand)- $5
10×6-32×1/2" Allen cap screws & plastic washers, $.15 ea - $1.5
4x rubber feet - $3
Around *$70* in hardware

About 1/4 bf each of:

Walnut
Maple
Wenge
Yellowheart 
Purpleheart 
Prices too crazy right now to make a meaningful estimate. Guess at $30?

Labor, umm, about 20 hrs counting CAD. But this was for me, so price wasn't really an issue.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Walnut Air Filter Stand*

We have pets and with pets comes pet dander and allergies. We bought a Grizzly G0738 two stage (5um & 1um) filter.









Grizzly G0738 two stage, three speed air filter w/ remote.

It really makes a difference but it's not the most attractive box in the bedroom. It's been sitting on a faux walnut MDF stand that's falling apart. I decided, and SWMBO agreed, that something better was needed.









Completed top is gorgeous!

I came up with a design for a real walnut (& walnut A-A ply) stand. Here it is after the first coat of MS thinned 50%-50% poly and waiting on the top (which will have a live edge but isn't built yet.)









Cabinet with lower storage.

I had to CAD the carcass. It is built out of four panels with 3/4" walnut ply base and middle shelf. The base is 32" tall by 24" wide x 22" deep. The top is 28" x 24" with 2" overhang on the live edge front and sides. The top will be flush to the back.










*Doors:*
Construction started with the two raised panel doors. I have the Grizzly H5553 reversable rail/stile and panel set with the classic ogee profile. This was the first project that I used this on and the doors gave me an opportunity to dial in the reversable rail and stile set. Being anal (engineer) I had to draw up the stacks in assembly order locating the various thickness washers, bearing, and cutters. After cleaning, all the washers and cutter spacings were mike'd with my digital caliper and noted on the drawings to insure accuracy.









Stack for stile dado.









Stack for rail tenon.

By cutting the dado's first, the finished face is used as a reference. The 1/4" dado position becomes a reference for cutting the rail tenons.









Alignment Diagram.

The 4/4 S2S walnut from Craftsmen Supply (Ybor City/Tampa) came in at ~7/8". Rather than plane down the extra thickness into dust, I used it as-is. The only issue this caused was some extra tweaking of the ply deck and the face frame was too thick for the hinges. To get around this the sides of the door frame were undercut with a router and rabbeting bit to exactly 3/4". The hinges fit perfectly and the rabbet is essentially invisible.

I used one piece of 1×6x28 walnut per door with sawdust left over. The doors were given a slathering of wax as a "shop finish" to protect them until the rest of the cabinet was ready. The thinned poly went thru the wax like it wasn't there during the actual finish process.









UL: Panel cutting jig,
UR: Botched rout on rear,
LL: Test fit,
LR: Under clamps.









Before and after waxing.

The doors were set aside until the front frame was built. The hinge positions were verified against the frame opening and door size before drilling the 35mm hinge cups. I set the centerline stop on the drill press to 13/16" and just drill at the marks for perfectly positioned hinge cups. I set the panel flat on the drill press table and set the depth stop flush with the surface. A piece of 1/2" scrap under the stock raises the stock the thickness needed to drill the cups. Then I use the self centering drill bits in the corded VSR hand power drill in a hinge set in the cup to pilot the two mounting screws. This perfectly aligns the mounting holes with the cup using the hinge itself as the jig.

*Sides:*
Next came the two side panels, these are traditional rail and stile frames with 1/4" walnut ply panel inserts.

These went together easily because of the CAD analysis allowed me to set and reset the extra thickness rail and stile pieces with precision.









Four L's form two panels

The side panels are the strength members. The middle deck 3/4" plywood is supported by 3/4" sq cleats biscuited into the rails of side panels. The bottom of the sides have another biscuited cleat in the bottom rail. This cleat is glued to and rests on the 3/4" ply base, transferring the load down to the legs.

The cleats were positioned self referentially so the ~3/4" walnut decking would sit flush with the edge of the side, hiding the plywood grain. Setting the stock and biscuiter flush on the saw top "zeroed" the slots in the cleats. Then I used a cutoff from the ply as a spacer to lift the biscuiter up and cut the slots in the sides. Without measuring, the biscuiter cutter height, or the ply thickness, I was able to blind glue the cleats and it came out dead flush.









Self referential parts fit perfectly flush.

*Front:*
I hadn't fully thought thru the front face frame design. I had sketched it as two full height stiles with top, middle, and bottom rails. The bottom was to have two euro hinged doors and needed a flat 3/4" mounting surface. The top half was to have flat panels in rabbeted stiles and tenon edged rails. There was no clean way to transition one piece from flat to rabbeted so a different answer was needed. The rails were run full width with the stiles tenoned instead. The bottom was done with biscuits on the butt joints. The center rail was flat on the lower edge and rabbeted on the top. This solved the problem but leaves exposed end grain on the sides. I may make some trim to cover it.

The top panel looked boring and too wide so I added a center stile. This made the inset panels almost square. I mis-cut the panels 1/4" too narrow but they fit well with the spaceballs in the rabbets. I was careful to orient and sequence the panel plys consecutively.

*Back:*
The back also had three full width rails but was easier to make as everything was rabbeted in one go. As luck would have it, I cut the bottom stiles 1/4" too long. Better long than short and a quick trim brought everything back in spec.

*Bottom:*
The bottom had holes drilled for the screw on legs 3" in from each corner of the base or 3-7/8" from the outer edges. For some reason the screw studs were over an inch long and, with no way to trim them down, they project completely thru the 3/4 ply lower deck. The legs had small plastic protector caps on the screws that I trimmed and used to cap the exposed ends inside the lower shelf. Its not the best solution, but it's neat and better than leaving the studs exposed.









3×3x6 pyramid legs.

The top plates were installed using the supplied #6 hardware directly over the 3/8" hole for the studs. The inverted pyramid feet were set back to prevent the puppies from using them as a fire hydrant. The tops were recessed slightly to hide the mounting plates.









5/16-18 top plates.

*Assembly:*
The sides are biscuited into the front and back. The panels were set up on the saw in the same assembly corner I use for small boxes. The deck ply was fitted but not glued while the sides were glued to the back. Once these had set up, the front was glued on and the deck was glued down and weighted.

Finally the cab was inverted onto the floor and the bottom, feet and all, was glued in place, weighted and left to set overnight.

*Finishing:*
The completed box was sanded to 120 all round. One thing about gluing on the saw top is that all squeezeout in contact with the iron turns black and is easy to see where sanding is needed (LOL).

After sanding, a flood coat of 50%-50% MS-Poly mix is applied everywhere. The ply and end grains drank the poly up almost instantly. I reapply until it appears slightly wet.

I use 3" and 1-1/2" disposable foam brushes for streak free and easy application. Disposable brushes are easier on the environment than cleaning good brushes with a pint of MS. It took a while, but I got every square inch (except the top edge where the top will attach) inside and out.

The doors are mounted and the knobs attached. SWMBO selected and ordered nice real crystal round knobs with dark bases. These pair nicely with the walnut and, being round, can't be misaligned. The holes were drilled with a simple stop block on the drill press for perfect alignment.









Doors closed, open, and closing .

I haven't dialed the hinges in yet, but they self close with less than 1/8" gap between them.

*Top:*
The top was supposed to be 28×24 out of a 5 board glueup with 2" overhang on the front and sides. As I sorted and squared I came up with a really good grain match across four pieces that was great but only 23-1/2". Guess what?! The top is now 28×23-1/2"! LOL I'm not a slave to the plan and I'm more concerned about yield than having to hit an arbitrary dimension.


After all, how much overhang on a top is "right"? 1/2"?, none?, 2"?, 6"? I've seen tables with dimensions all over the place. 2" was a nice, round number, but 1-1/2" will work too. None of you would know if I didn't tell you. LOL

Anyway the four pieces were laid out and cut for #20 biscuits in three places and glued up as two pairs, I-II and III-IV. Both pieces came in under 13" which is the limit on my planer so that's good. I was hoping to use the new scraper set that came today instead of planing.

The two halves are under clamps now.









Halves clamping.

As luck would have it I just bought (arrived today!) a six pack of assorted shape scrapers, Grizzly D3294 (yes, I *do* know how to use hand tools!)

The scraper made quick work of the squeeze out.









Before and after. Sharp scraper curls. Nice clean seam.

Finally both halves are biscuited, glued, and clamped to final size.









Final top glue up. The color sequence helps hide the seams. This will be beautiful when finished.

The plan is to wire brush the live edge to remove any loose material, then round the corners and rout a profile on the sides.

One of my (many) pet peeves is pointy corners. I tend to carom off things and have been gouged by pointy corners furniture and the like my whole life. So the two front corners will be radiused and the edges profiled as an architectural detail.









Looking great!


*Joinery Aside:*
Some insist that a jointer is mandatory for getting glue edge seam. The seams on this top are *tight* and straight off the saw with my favorite blade, the Freud LU83 combo. The lumber was all S2S and some was slightly bowed yet the seams are straight and tight. It gives glassy crosscuts and glue line rips. This is why there's no joiner in my shop. I just haven't found the need.

Because of expansion I'm going to biscuit the top to the back but let the front float on clips.

I've been kicking around the thought of milling some cove for under the table lip but wasn't sure I'd have enough walnut left. The savings on the top gives me a 1×6x32 board to spare so I've got the material. The only secondary woods are whatever is inside the walnut ply and the biscuits. Everything including cleats and supports is solid walnut.









Completed project.

*Materials:*

4/4×6 S2S walnut - 21bf @ $12/bf ~ $252 (includes top)
3×3x6 pyramid 5/16-18 screw on legs - $40/set of 4
5/16-18 top plates - $15/set of 4
1/4 A-A walnut ply, 2×4 sheet - $40
3/4 A-B walnut ply, 2×2 sheet - 2 @ $20 ea ~ $40
knobs - 2 @ $2.50 ea ~ $5
biscuits - 20 @ $0.05 ea ~ $1
glue brushes - 8 @ $0.50 ~ $4
foam brushes - 8 @ $0.50 ~ $4
poly, 1 qt @ $12
soft close euro hinges - 2 pr @ $14/pr ~ $28

*Matl. Total: ~$440

Labor: 20 hrs @ $20/hr = $400

COGS: ~$850*


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut Air Filter Stand*
> 
> We have pets and with pets comes pet dander and allergies. We bought a Grizzly G0738 two stage (5um & 1um) filter.
> 
> ...


mark i gotta say some guys give you a lot of crap here but they cant say honestly that this isn't a damn nice piece of furniture.pretty good for the hump with a stump and the pump. ;-)


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut Air Filter Stand*
> 
> We have pets and with pets comes pet dander and allergies. We bought a Grizzly G0738 two stage (5um & 1um) filter.
> 
> ...


TYVM!


----------



## Foghorn (Jan 30, 2020)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut Air Filter Stand*
> 
> We have pets and with pets comes pet dander and allergies. We bought a Grizzly G0738 two stage (5um & 1um) filter.
> 
> ...


Looks great Mark. The tip on the wax before thinned poly finish is interesting and something I'll consider for some things. For guitars, I usually give everything a coat of shellac and then sand it all off before spraying lacquer.


----------



## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut Air Filter Stand*
> 
> We have pets and with pets comes pet dander and allergies. We bought a Grizzly G0738 two stage (5um & 1um) filter.
> 
> ...


Nice build Mark. So the air grid shown on the CAD drawing in green is open to the back? Is there any other air flow?

I have the same units (2), and use them in the shop, not hung, but placed atop of counters, work tables and such close to where I am creating the dust, and by looking out windows I see MANY less floaters, floating around when I use them. I always place them on top of blocks of wood to allow for air flow all around mine, it seems they do much better like that then just flat on a surface. That is why I asked about your airflow on the enclosed cabinet.


----------



## Jimarco (May 15, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut Air Filter Stand*
> 
> We have pets and with pets comes pet dander and allergies. We bought a Grizzly G0738 two stage (5um & 1um) filter.
> 
> ...


That came out great, good job. Thanks for the details.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut Air Filter Stand*
> 
> We have pets and with pets comes pet dander and allergies. We bought a Grizzly G0738 two stage (5um & 1um) filter.
> 
> ...


Both sides are fully open. The air filter unit can be rotated 180° and there is about 1-1/2" on either side and maybe 3/4" at the top.


----------



## gdaveg (Aug 1, 2020)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut Air Filter Stand*
> 
> We have pets and with pets comes pet dander and allergies. We bought a Grizzly G0738 two stage (5um & 1um) filter.
> 
> ...


Mark

The grain of the wood is awesome. Nice build.

Thinned poly over wax, would have never thought of that.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Rick's Steampunk Stereo Weather Science Station*









It's Ricktacular!









Light show.









Steampunk Rulz!

Shop has been on a bit of a hiatus for a couple of months. First, parts have been taking forever. Second, we've been waiting on the mini-split to be installed.

SWMBO had cleaned in anticipation of the AC install and had vacuumed to the point that we were able to actually see the floor. Having been instructed to keep things clean and clear for the AC tech, sawdust production stopped.

Things took a bit longer to get installed, mostly on paperwork, but once the day came, it was a 1/2 day job and done. The weather has broken here in Fla and we're FINALLY under 90° F but the humidity is still high and having AC is all the difference in the world. I ordered a grizzly air cleaner to help keep the AC clean. It should be here soon. It's been a lifetime dream to have an air conditioned shop and it's finally here!

This is another steampunk inspired, kitchen-sink gadget. It does lots of things, much of which is geared to looking cool.


Bluetooth radio w/LED display
separate LED volume bar graph meter & green LED sw
time/temp green LED module & green LED sw
RH% LCD meter (always on)
storm glass w/RGB LED & blue LED sw
prism w/RGB LED & red LED sw
display stand uplight RGB LED puck & white LED sw
high voltage antenna terminals

This is a conglomeration of three or four other projects into one big overly ornate and complex gadget.

*Peektures:*









Here it is in all of its glory. You can see the various displays cycling. The top buttons control the associated device and each can be turned off and on separately. The puck, Storm Glass and Prism are all RGB LED lighted. The puck has a remote control. The Storm Glass and the Prism have independent (not synchronized) RGB lighting.

The time, internal and external temps appear in the first three frames. The bar-graph is also active.









Internal wiring details showing:


Wiring in process. All units were pre-wired and tested prior to installation
+5 vdc regulator mounted on LED support block.
Bar-graph module on lexan.
Bar-graph mounted in case
Each device had power and ground leads soldered to common bussbars. 
Top view shows final layout









Rather than make a six way spider, I installed ground and +12vdc bussbars made out of 12ga solid wire. This greatly simplified final interconnects. The ends of the buss wire were flared out a little bit for retention in the pilot holes.









Heat sink was mounted at first random location on LED mounting block. A hole was drilled & tapped 6-32 to hold the heat sink and +5vdc regulator. Yellow wires are +5, red +12, and black is, of course, gnd.









The bar-graph has built in connector, and display mode select button. Although the module retains the selected mode, I thought it might be cute to bring the button out so the display mode can be changed without opening the case. As luck would have it, the fenestration needed a "nose", and what better than a (push) button nose?! LOL

Pressing the display mode "nose" cycles the bar-graph thru the following modes:

Standard Bar-graph, full height bars, no peak hold
Standard Bar-graph, full height bars, peak, hold & fall
Instant/Peak, Single LED shows instant value, 2nd LED shows peak, hold & fall
Center expanding, no peak hold

The display module didn't really have mounting tabs, just a semicircular M2 sized notch on the far ends. Additionally, any mounting hardware would contact the fragile traces, so that was out. It obviously was shaped to fit a specific application, not ours. I put a nice bead of clear RTV down the center of the module and attached it to a 1-1/2" x 3" piece of smoked Lexan.

The Lexan with the bar-graph module was, in turn, glued (more clear RTV) to the inside of the case, centered in the beveled slot. The beveling makes the bar-graph easier to see and is an intentional rhyme with old tube radio panels.









Bar-graph recess.









Old Philco radio beveled panel.



> For most projects I only need small pieces of Lexan. Only problem is that if you want anything other than clear you generally have to buy a full sheet. Wayyyy overkill. I did manage to find one plastics company, ePlastics.com that
> that sold sample packs of a half dozen assorted 4" x 6" x 1/8" shades of grays or colors (I bought a pack of each colors and grays) and now I have enough assorted pieces to last for years.


You can see the antenna and bar-graph connections to the stereo. The bar-graph, terminals, speakers, and stereo balance, all agree on L & R.

-----

*FINALLY* moving forward. That last stray parts and pieces have shown up, including a very cute, and very *tiny,* chamfer bit.

The woods were selected as

Flame wood front and bottom
Walnut ends with dual racing stripe inlay
Sapele top
back is a piece of clear pine resawn to 9/32"

The pine back works, but is the least proud part of the project. I didn't even bother to finish it as I'm really considering a remake on it. I over drilled the cord hole, have it a hair too tall, mis-aligned to mounting screws and forgot to drill the hole for the "outside" temp probe. (Sigh.) Nothing is ever perfect.

The front and top were complex layouts with multiple rectangular cutouts, various diameter holes and ornate joints. Here is the box receiving its 2nd coat of thinned poly.










Check out the fine ripples in the flame wood grain:










The screws are in place to keep the poly out of the holes. They were replaced with fresh ones as the originals were slopped with poly from the finishing process.

The two large diameter recesses are for the Storm Glass and prism and have hidden blocks with 3/8" holes for color changing LED'S. The Storm Glass needs at least 1/2" of support and the LED needs another 1/2". This means that top to bottom we need 1" of material. Since the top itself is only 1/4" (actually an RCH under) I needed to attach a 3/4" block under the mounting location to hold everything. The blocks are 1-7/8" by virtue of that being the size of the piece of scrap pine I used.

The prism shows what it's mounted on so I wanted the Sapele to show under it. Initially I considered trapping the prism vertically to allow it to rotate, but I just couldn't figure out a good, sturdy mount. So I decided to just RTV it down like the puck. However, just plopping down near the LED hole didn't seem like a good plan. Since I'd already made a Stand for another prism of the same size I already have the 1-5/8" forstner to make a centering recess. With this in mind I piloted the center of the recess and then glued the backing block in place, extending the pilot hole once the glue dried. I then used the big forstner to drill about 1/2 way thru the top, leaving the sapele showing. Then I thru drilled the 3/8" thru LED mounting hole. The recess helped hide the RTV squeeze out and insured the prism was centered over the LED. I squared one face to the top to insure it looked centered and not cockeyed. I think it came out well.












> You may be wondering why I used a highly figured flame wood on the bottom. Well its a salvage from a botch on the first front I cut. The design was to be 11" overall so I cut my front and top to be 11-1/2" figuring this would be enough to hs some margin. Wellll I forgot to trim the front and routered the ends at 11-1/2" instead of 11". I'll just trim 1/2" off and reroute the end sez I. I trim 1/4" off (the original routing took 3/16" off already) and reroute the fancy crowns. Only problem is that some of the pattern was left and interfered with rerouting and looked like bleccch. Ahh, so the original front is now the bottom.


The crazy electrodes aren't just decorative. They are the antenna leads but they look cool. Due to the thickness of the lid I had to order longer 2-1/2" 10-32 screws than the 2" ones that came with them originally. Now I only needed 1/4", but the screw is 1/2" longer. I both took up some of the slack, and added another touch of steampunk detail, by padding out the mount with a stack of different color washers, black, white, and brass. The antenna has a 32" vertical rod and a 32" grounding chain that hangs down from the back like a thin brass tail. I had extra clamps and I used one on the end of the chain as a weight. Again, more steampunk details.

The Storm Glass has four decorative screws around it to imply something of power. The five screws on each end of the top are functional to allow internal access. With all the crap and wiring its a little messy on the inside.

You can see where the chamfer bit was used around the LED sound bar graph opening. This is a style I've seen on old radios. The inside of the opening will have a piece of smoked Lexan covering the back of the hole. The Lexan and the bar graph will be glued in place with clear silicon RTV. This solves trying to mount the LED bar-graph with essentially no mounting holes. It only has an M2 semicircle at each end. How cheap is that? They could only afford one hole, and at that, had to split it, half a hole at each end!

Anyway, the cutout for the bar graph is only 1/2" and I had to special order a *tiny,* 3/16" bearing, chamfer bit to route the edge of the opening. *$28* just to edge that one hole.









Amana Tool MR0108 Miniature 45 Degree Chamfer with 3/16 D Ball Bearing x 9/16 D x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Inch SHK Carbide Tipped Router Bit-$28 + shipping!

The striped inlay was ordered from Grizzly. For some reason, one of our cats decided that it tasted good and chewed up about 6" of it. The strips were sold as 3/8" wide and I have a 3/8" straight router bit so I figured no biggie. Only thing is that actual strip width is 13/32". The Incra saves the day! One pass on both edges of both ends with the 12/32" (3/8) bit, move *exactly one* tooth (1/32") and run 'em again-perfect fit!









Grizzly T23918 - Bloodwood/Maple Diamond Inlay Banding Strip

Got one more 3/8" hole to drill in the center of the front face for the nose. When doing the layout I was conscious of the fenestration. The radio is the wide big mouth (since it makes the noise), the meters are the eyes, giving insight (into the time, temp & humidity), and the last will be the push-button nose for changing the bar-graph mode.

I think of the Storm Glass like the cartoon image of an idea light bulb coming on over your head.

The electrodes: I had thought about mounting them on the sides as neck bolts, but the layout didn't work. So they're top mounted for practical attachment.

The color puck and prism will just be glued in place, along with the LED's, using clear silicon RTV. The puck has a small, black, IR sensor at one point on its circumference. Be sure to mount with the sensor facing front, otherwise the remote may not work. As long as the puck has power (even if commanded off) it will retain it's display settings. This is nice so you can set the mode you want and just on/off from there. This is also why the pucks are battery eaters. They're on standby as soon as the batteries are inserted and even when commanded off. Since the puck has its own dedicated +5vdc power supply, standby power consumption isn't an issue.

*Moving on to final assembly:*










Since I had pre-wired, tested, and clearance checked everything early on, assembly was easy. I had even gone so far as bagging all the parts and pieces to keep dust out and all parts needed in one kit. Much easier, especially when weeks elapse between stages.

Everything is screwed down or glued with RTV. The fitments are snug so it's going together just as planned.

I still have the back to do.

Need to drill & mount feet. Used 6-32 cap screws to mount on bottom. Looks good. Seems to float as feet are dark and not obvious.

Internal wiring will take a bit. Still have to figure out where to mount +5v regulator. Thinking of adding ground and +12vdc buss bars to make tying all those leads together easier. Actually the buss bar idea worked great.

You think this one is wild? My next weather station will have an LCD, IR remote, and an Arduino controller! (Cackling like Kamala while wringing hands …)

-----

*Design:*









Ancestors.

The final dimensions are still fluid as I'm waiting on parts. I can't do more than doodle until the real parts are on hand. It worked out to be 11"W x 5"H (plus 1/2" for the black rubber feet) by 4-3/4"D. The gadgets add height, depth and heft. The antenna rod is nominally 30" (~100 MHz FM band) high and I added a zigzag bend in it to give it a more sci-fi feel and to reduce the mechanical length without severely impacting the antenna's function. I have a COTS T antenna and an "hi power" antenna and my simple rod antenna pulls in the same stations with the same clarity as the others.

I started by looking for an inexpensive yet functional car radio. I found a nice one in my budget ($25) that had 4×50w outputs and USB, Bluetooth, etc features. Its also controllable by smartphone. This means I can use it like a stereo even when offline.

I settled on the Dual *XDM17BT* single DIN (50mm x 180mm, 2-1/8" x 7-3/16") unit. This is a very shallow (under 1-3/4") box so it will fit in a small sized box.









Full featured car stereo, $25 at Walmart .

I purchased a 10A @ 12VDC power brick and put a car cigarette lighter socket on it this gives safe, UL approved power with no liability or safety issues.









AC adapter is UL approved and puts out 12VDC @ 10A, ~$25 from Walmart

Here is the lighter cord set:









Lighter connector can carry 10A, $10 at Walmart

The speaker terminal block is readily available at Walmart.









About $10 at Walmart









Bluetooth radio & PS pre-wires.

Some of the parts have been trickling in and I've pre-wired & tested as much of the support electronics as possible. I'm using these really cool lighted push buttons to turn off and on each gadget individually. This adds more needless complexity and ornamentation that, to me, hallmarks steampunk. Lots of machine screws!

Found these cool lighted push buttons:









$5 ea. at SuperbrightLEDs

Found this car clock/temp/voltage display. It comes with dual (short & long) temp sensors and has all sorts of options but no docs. It's not that hard to figure out but a cheat sheet would be nice. I'll see if I can work one up.









$11.69 at Walmart









My cheat sheet.

Top center I'm going to mount a waterproof remote control RGB LED puck. It's designed to run off three AAA batteries, but I've modified it to run off a small 12v to 5v regulator. I'm going to add a USB charger port out the back so the regulator has a heat sink to carry the heat load (potentially ~15w).









Puck with remote is $10 from SuperbrightLEDs

The prism and Storm Glass are both under-lit with RGB oversize (3/8" dia) LED's. They have 365 ohm ½W series limiter resistors in the power lead to prevent overload.









8mm (3/8") color changing LED is under $1 ea. from Digi-Key

The 12v to 5v regulator IC has just three terminals; in, gnd, and out. The red leads are 12v while the yellow are the +5v power. Again, purchased thru Digi-Key.









Pre-wires for: RGB LED w/sw, time/temp w/sw, 5v RGB puck w/sw, remote, and v reg.

This will be the living room stereo with a nice set of Bose speakers as well as a night light. Each item is individually switched so the entire thing can be turned off or lit up like a carnival. Big color changing LEDs go under the prism and storm glass. There is a 3" dia remore control LED puck that will be used as a lighted base for a display stand. None of the lights are synchronized so the color mixes and patterns will be strange - the stranger the better!









RGB Puck and 12v-5v regulator with wiring to battery clips.

These LCD humidity modules are cheap and cool.









A pair for under $15 from Walmart

A Storm Glass is an old piece of technology. It responds to changing weather conditions by having crystals in the fluid go up and down. If the top is clear the weather will be. The more crystals at the top the worse the weather. It looks really cool under-lit by a giant RGB LED.









Storm Glass. From WalMart

A 6" prism was to be captive mounted upward to balance the Storm Glass visually, but was on back order. The shorter 2-1/2" prism was available, and you can see it here. It's a good piece of quality optical glass and comes in a nice protective case.









About $16 at Walmart

I've always loved watching the VU meters while listening to music. The particular radio used here doesn't have built-in VU metering functionality so I'm hoping to be able to add it via the pre-amp output jacks. I'll cobble it up on the bench first before finalizing the layout. Centered over the radio module might work … vertically on the side fit better.









Dual LED VU meter, $15 at Walmart .

I got the device in and the hookup was easy, R & L inputs, power & ground. I wired a pair of short, shielded RCA cables to the supplied harness, added power and it worked on the first try. The meter has a variety of display modes, selected by a *tiny* surface mount push button on the back that simply won't be easily accessible once the project is completed. So now I'm waiting on a plain momentary PB switch to wire in parallel to the rear panel. Inside every small problem, is a larger problem, struggling to escape. This one part delayed the project almost a month …

Again, I'm going to mix lots of colors and patterns in the wood and joinery. Finally settled on Sapele, Flame wood, and walnut.

I normally use a two terminal barrier strip for the antenna leads on the radio. These are plain-Jane but functional. For this monstrosity I'm going to use a couple of high voltage ceramic insulators just for nonsense as the actual antenna leads. Maybe put a Jacob's ladder shaped coat hanger on it. LOL









Should be impressive as antenna terminals!

I researched FM antennas and there are basically the classic (fugly) "T" dipole and a vertical monopole. The monopole has an 30" (for FM band) vertical rod with a vertical ground wire of the same length. Having a rod sticking up is cool, but the same sticking down causes no end of positioning issues. What is called for is a flexible rod ... a *chain!* Conductive, will hang straight down, flexible. Brass pull chain!

The electrodes are #10 studs and the aluminum rod I found was .125" or just a hair under 8 ga wire dia so I had to locate an 8 ga to #10 wire terminal. nothing was really available in crimp type terminals, esp. as I wanted specifically un-insulated type. Regular crimp terminal aren't that thick or strong and I had concerns they might not be stiff enough to hold the rod upright. McMaster had these copper plated steel ones that were the right sizes but also looked (and was) very rigid.









Electrode and rod assembled, tip was rounded over for eye safety.

One issue is that these electrodes were designed to mount in thin (metal) panels and not 1/4" wood. I may have to use longer bolts or countersink the underside. We'll see. -The bolts were 2" for 1/16" metal panels. Using a thick 1/4" panel didn't leave more that a thread or two for the hardware, without the crimp terminals. So I looked around and no one really has 10-32×2-1/4", its 2" or 2-1/2" and I didn't need a box of 100 so I bought what I could get, 2-1/2". I had a lot of stud left so I ordered brass, clear, and black #10 washers. I stacked these on the top of the electrodes to give a more complex, steampunk, look.

Figuring out all the electrics is the major part. I've CAD'd the layout but still have a couple of unknowns and missing parts.










-----

*Bottom line:*
radio - $25
speaker terminal bloc - $10
12v/10a power supply - $30
car lighter plug/socket pair - $12
Antenna lead - $8
Crimp terminals - 2
chain, bead, 36" - $5
rod, 1/8 alum, 36" 
electrodes - 2 - $10ea - $20
2-1/2 10-32 screws - 2 - $2
#10-8ga terminals - 3 - $6
#10 flat washer, brass - 10
#10 flat washer, nylon - 4
#10 flat washer, fiber - 4
Storm glass - $25
prism - $20
bar-graph - $15
no pb - $5
RCA patch cord - $5
Dumont jumper - $0.50
Lexan - $30 sample kit
- chamfer bit - $28
Jumbo RGB LED's - 2 - $2ea - $4
Resistors, 360ohm, 1/4w - 8, $0.05 ea, $0.40

humidity gage - $8
Time/temp gage - $15
RGB puck w/IR remote - $10
5v reg, TO-220 - $2
heat sink - $1
bypass caps - 2 @ $0.10 ea, $0.20

1×6x12 (1/2 bf) walnut ends - full 15/16" thk - $8
1×6x12 (1/4 bf) sapele top - resawn 9/32" 
1×6x12 (1/2 bf) flame wood front & bottom - resawn 9/32" 
1×6x12 (1/4 bf) clear pine back - resawn 9/32" 
1×3x6 (1/8 bf) clear pine blocks

Lighted, sustained, spdt, push buttons - 5 at $5 - $25
Wire, 22ga, stranded, asst. colors, ~30'
Wire, 12ga, solid, bare, 12" 
HS tubing, asst. colors, 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 2' ea
Wire ties, 4", ~25
6-32×1/2 SS allen cap machine screws - 23, 14 top, 4 back, 1 interior, 4 feet.
6-32×3/4 SS allen cap machine screws - 4, spkr pnl
6-32 SS nylok nuts - 4, spirits pnl
glue, titebond III
poly, 3 coats, Minwax Varathane
brushes, foam - 3 (one per coat), $0.25 ea, $0.75
inlay strip, 2' - $10
feet - 4 at $0.75 - $3
RTV, clear, 1 tube - $7

*Total - around $350 matls only!*

*Tools req:*
TS, cross/rip/resaw
Planer
DP
5" ROS 
router, 1/2", table - dovetails & inlay
Fast-Joint kit - dovetails
3/8" straight router bit - inlay
router, 1/4", hand - bar-graph bevel
scroll saw - cutouts - 5, radio, hygrometer, time/temp, bar-graph, speakers
band saw (cord slot) - could use scroll saw
square, small - plumb storm glass & align prism
layout rule & .5 mm pencil
glue brush, disposable
clamps, 2×6", 2×12" 
6-32 D&T
5/16" box wrench (nylok nuts)
1/16" pilot drill for all hole locations
3/32" drill (buss bar mtg holes)
1/8" drill (#6 clearance drill)
3/16" drill (temp probe holes & puck feedthru)
Bits, forstner: 3/8" nose button, LED's, 7/16" electrodes, 5/8" lighted buttons, 1" Storm Glass, 1-5/8" prism
VSR Hand power drill
diagonal cutters
wire strippers
needle nose pliers
wire bending/cutting pliers - antenna rod forming
reverse tweezers - soldering 3rd hand
allen driver bit
Soldering iron & solder
lighter - HS tubing


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Rick's Steampunk Stereo Weather Science Station*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I really like project. I hope you post a list of components.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Rick's Steampunk Stereo Weather Science Station*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


TYVM! Will do!


----------



## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Madmark2 said:


> *Rick's Steampunk Stereo Weather Science Station*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I can see you scooting around in the shop, all your hair standing straight up yelling….. *IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!*


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Rick's Steampunk Stereo Weather Science Station*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


*Bzzzt! Bzzzt! Ker-SNAP!* (sudden pungent odor of ozone.)

Thanx! That is exactly what I was going for. When you're going over the top, go wayyyy over! LOL


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Rick's Steampunk Stereo Weather Science Station*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I love this !


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Rick's Steampunk Stereo Weather Science Station*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Bump for new pics …


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*My first ever router inlay!*

Been trying to get set up to route inlays. Well, there are a lot of little bits to it and I finally got it (mostly) working.









Its not perfect, and I had to rubber mallet it home, but it fits!

Step 1 was to draw the inlay pattern. I tried freehanding it and using patterns from the internet. No real joy. So now I need CAD. My old windows 7 box is dead and gone and win 10 turns it nose up at an old version of AutoCAD. (Sigh)

Luckily I found Nano CAD, a free Autocad work-alike program. So one problem solved. I've used inkjet to print layout templates and they always smear. So now to find a cheap laser printer. $125 later I can print non smear.

Never having done this before I wasn't sure how much to allow for clearance. Turns out the inlay is 3/8" smaller than the original pattern. Next pattern will be targeted for specific dimensions.

I rubber cemented the pattern on what I thought was 1/4" (metric 6mm! Arrrgh!) and drilled and scrollsawed the pattern. I'd put center marks on the drawing so drilling was easy.

Although I tried to get everything perfect, I'm not a CNC machine and there was a little variation in the centers. This means there are four possible orientations but only one aligns correctly.









Remains of the laser print on 6mm template.

After fiddling with different double stick tapes, I used Alien Tape to hold the pattern in place. The extra 2mm thickness between the template and stock leveled things out nicely.

The inlay kit came with a PC mounting ring, 1/8" solid carbide bit, and alignment pin. Some of you here may recall me ending up with THREE alignment cones so the baseplate was already well centered. The alignment pin is bigger than the bit itself. So if the alignment pin fits, the bit clearances will be perfect.

I cut the mortise recess first. It was sloppy at first but I soon got the hang of it. The big thing is to lift the router clear often to clear the kerf. The initial pass is the hardest because there is nowhere for the swarf to go. I cut the mortise 1/4" deep but should have only gone 1/8" deep.

I initially tried making the inlay out of 1/4" stock. No Bueno. I switched to 1/8" inlay stock and got much better results. Getting the template and bit spacings right is the key. If everything had been correctly sized, (real 1/4" instead of 6mm ply) and thin stock, it would have been silk.









Cutout remainder.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *My first ever router inlay!*
> 
> Been trying to get set up to route inlays. Well, there are a lot of little bits to it and I finally got it (mostly) working.
> 
> ...


Good job….it feels good to figure things out.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Walnut End Table Done*

After the success of the walnut air filter cabinet SWMBO decided she really liked walnut and asked for a matching end table.









Top.

I hate sharp corners. I tend to carom off things and I can't count how many times I've been gouged by sharp corners. The top is 24" sq and made from a glueup of four 7/8" x 6" (actual) boards. The edges are routed and corners rounded.









Leg Pairs.

I started with six, 1×6 x 2' S2S boards. Cleaned one edge and ripped each into two 2-9/16" pieces. The 12 pieces were then color and curve matched for four 3-ply leg blanks. Once the glue dried overnight, each leg was slightly trimmed to get rid of the glue squeezeout. The legs were then planed until perfectly square at what turned out to be 2-3/8" finished.

Two adjacent faces on each leg were beaded in from each edge with a triple beading bit on the router.

A shelf is planned and the legs have a 3/8" deep dado routed for the 3/8" x 2-1/4" shelf supports.

SWMBO specifically requested tapered legs. Given the requirement for a drawer and a shelf, the max length for the taper was only 5" or so. I decided that I'd taper to half the leg size or 1-3/16". I drew the angle on the router wing, moved the fence over and fiddled with the taper gauge until the angle lined up. Drawing a line 5" from the bottom and aligning the leg in the jig until the line was on the edge of the kerf of the ZCI. Locking everything down allowed me to cut dual tapers on the inside faces of each leg.

The legs are 2-3/8" thick and you can't cut the tapers in two passes. So I was forced to raise the blade just about full up but was still 1/8" shy of a thru cut. I cut as far as I could and then flexed and snapped off the last little bit. Fortunately the beading had removed some material. The remainder was easily sanded off leaving clean, smooth tapers all round.


> The taper cuts have a certain "pucker factor" due to the high blade exposure. Normally there is a cut hazard, but at that height a full amputation is possible. Combine this with the the different stance (to right of fence, pulling taper jig & stock tight to rip fence - out of reach of STOP sw!) and I'm not ashamed to admit I had SWMBO watch me work for those cuts … just in case.


The build plan was to make the two sides first and then the front and back. This order is needed because the apron has a drawer on the front and the final front and back dimensions are dependent on the drawer finished size.









Drawer.

The drawer construction is such that the drawer can be pulled out to full extension but won't fall out. This is done without metal drawer slides. The key is to leave the rear of the drawer proud. The bottom of the rear is flush (and glued to) the top of the bottom plywood. This leaves ~1/2" tongue sticking up at the rear. This acts as a catch and requires the drawer front to be tilted up to be removed. Quite handy to have drawers that won't fall out.

The walnut front and pine slab sides are joined with the Fast-Joint Mini patterned dovetails. The back is dadoed into the sides. The bottom fits into the dados on the sides and front, and is glued to the bottom of the back. The bottom was some 1/4" walnut ply scrap I had left from the air cleaner cabinet .

The Fast-Joint Mini comes with two guide bushings, standard and tight. Up to now I've been using the standard guide and, as my technique has improved, the joints were loosening as I was cleaning out the templates better. So for this (and presumably future) projects I moved to the "tight" guide bushing. I also re-centered the guide as precisely as I could. I was rewarded with *perfect* fitting, rigid joints. The went together and came apart with the rubber mallet during dry fit and formed perfect tight joints with zero play. After gluing & clamping there was hardly a hairs breadth difference between sides and front.

The drawer has received its first of three "wet" coats with 50%-50% poly-MS mix. I don't just brush on one pass and quit. The first couple of coats soak into the wood quickly and I keep applying until the wood stays "wet". I find that this builds quicker than just one thin coat but still cures quickly.

After the top was finished it was placed into the sun for an afternoon to harden the final coat.









Ready for final base build.

The 1×8 aprons are attached to the legs with double #20 biscuits at 2" and 5-1/2" down from the top. The slots in the apron were nominally in the middle of a 3/4" actual board. To space them close to the middle of the 2-3/8" legs, I simply set the biscuiter on a piece of 3/4" scrap and the aprons were automatically nicely inset.

… the next day …

Built the front frame around the drawer. The original plan was to rip the front into three pieces and the center into three, drawer front and two ends. Well that failed when I cut the wrong face of the drawer front dovetails. (sigh) Plan B: Cut the ends separately and run 'em vertically.










Front face and back were ready so it was time for main assembly. It went together with a little help from SWMBO. Looking good. I'll let it sit in the clamps overnight.









In clamps on my "bench".
Good shot of the shop too.

… time passes …

*Building the drawer slides:*
The two guides are pieces of 2×2 with one quarter cut out. I made one set from a piece of scrap 2×10 x 18-3/8" long and I needed 18" +- a RCH.

The trick to cutting out 1/4 of square stock is to have the blade slightly higher than the distance of the fence to the far side of the blade. Being a little deeper in the cut insures no residue in the corner. Ideally your depth and distance are exactly the same, but getting it dialed in can be touchy. Faster, easier, & guaranteed no ridge in the corner if your blade is a bit (~1/16") high.



> *WARNING:* The 2nd cut traps the removed section. STAND ASIDE OF THE BLADE TO AVOID KICKBACK. on my saw the offcut just falls away due to the length, but kickback is possible in this cut!


Trimming the bars to length is key. You can't dowel or biscuit. They don't need to carry a ton of weight so a snug butt joint is needed. I marked and left the line and snuck up on the fit 1/32" at a time.

I carefully duplicated the layout of the drawer cutout on the inside of the rear apron. I trimmed until I could just get the corners started. Since everything is flat, you can't tilt the guides in. You get the corner started and twist both ends in place. Once I got them dry fitted, I put glue on the ends and positioned them quickly. I left the guides slightly shy of the drawer front opening and of the rear marks. Being a little sloppy prevents binding. You have to work fast as it takes muscle to get the pieces properly aligned before the glue starts to grab.









Drawer guide.

Once the rails were positioned, the drawer was placed on them from the inside. In this design the drawer is trapped. It can't fall out and is travel limited by the rear stop bar. After the top is installed, the drawer is in there forever.









Drawer cannot fall out.

The rear stop was a piece of the ~5/8" 1/4 square cutout from the guides. I set the stop bar by putting it a little short and then pressing the drawer front flush. Clamping set it permanently in place. Someone might someday slam the drawer hard enough to break the join. I might drill & dowel the joint for strength.









Fit looks good. Needs a knob.

Well that's it for today.

… About done …

Base has had its first coats of 50%-50% poly-MS mix. The padded feet have been nailed on. The drawer pull has been installed. The top is screwed to the base with a couple of 1/2" x 2" L-brackets. This is simple and easy and gives a way to remove the drawer. It's basically done except for final coat of poly and that needs to wait a couple of days for the primer coat to harden.









Knob is installed after this pic.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut End Table Done*
> 
> After the success of the walnut air filter cabinet SWMBO decided she really liked walnut and asked for a matching end table.
> 
> ...


Very nice…I like those joints.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut End Table Done*
> 
> After the success of the walnut air filter cabinet SWMBO decided she really liked walnut and asked for a matching end table.
> 
> ...


lookin real sweet mark,nice work on the beading.cool looking dovetails.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut End Table Done*
> 
> After the success of the walnut air filter cabinet SWMBO decided she really liked walnut and asked for a matching end table.
> 
> ...


Bump at completion.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut End Table Done*
> 
> After the success of the walnut air filter cabinet SWMBO decided she really liked walnut and asked for a matching end table.
> 
> ...


damn nice my friend !


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Walnut End Table Done*
> 
> After the success of the walnut air filter cabinet SWMBO decided she really liked walnut and asked for a matching end table.
> 
> ...


TYVM pottz.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Pool Table Rebuild*

Neighbor bought a used pool table. The bed and legs are OK, but the tops & sides are particle board covered with wood grain vinyl and are in mid decomp. The table and rails were not designed to be refelted as the rail assembly is two glued pieces with the felt trapped in-between.









Decomp on skirt, rails crumbling.

We're using clear 1×6 pine for the tops and 2×4's for the rail backs. When we stripped the felt off we found we could easily strip the rail bumper rubber off the particle board. They were glued with contact cement but the particle board was so rotten the rubber came off and brought about 50% coverage with breakoffs from the particle board. They're easy enough to sand clean-a task delegated to the neighbor.

The rubbers seem to be 60°-60°-60° equilateral triangles with a groove in the bottom. The wide side of the groove goes up.

The 2×4 rail supports need to be beveled at the 60° angle so the triangle tops are even with the top of the sides. The bevel on the top side is wide enough for the rubber strip to be glued onto. The edge is undercut to tightly wrap the felt and leave room for staples.

The rail support and top form a sandwich. A 3/4" by 2" rabbet is cut on the table saw. I set the blade using the DRO to .750" and the rip fence to 2" less 3/32" thin kerf to cut the short side of the rabbet. Raising to blade to 2.000" and setting the rip fence to 3/4" let me rip the wide side of the rabbet. The result was a perfect fit.









Rail support and top.

The corner pocket rail ends miter at 45°, while the side pockets are mitered at 15°.

The top pieces are about 36" wide and curve in at the pockets. We traced the piece on the freshly ripped 1×6 stock and cut the curve with the band saw. We saved the offcut for use as a template. A quick pass on the oscillating 4" belt sander took out the texture from the bandsaw. Finally we routed an ogee on the outside edge. The profile was almost an exact match.









First cutoff is template.

The rail support end for the corner pockets needs to be beveled but not the side pocket end. There is also a 2×1-3/4 notch on each end that was easy to cut on the bandsaw.

The third piece of the assembly is the skirt. The original was 1/2" particle board and I'm using some scrap 1/2" ply as a replacement. Neighbor says he'll stain later.









Ply skirt.

All in all it took about 1:45 to make the first of six. Now knowing the process and having a good template batching the last 5 should go quickly.

… time passes …

I roughed all of the rails. The 60° bevels were cut first. 


> The tall bevel had a bit of pucker factor as it was cut without an insert. My gawd all that exposed blade looked like the jaws of hell!


Once the tall edge was beveled, the blade was lowered for the short cuts. The trimmed square ends had their bandsaw work done in prep so just final trim and bandsaw work is left

… the next day …

Only took about 2 hrs to make the remaining five sets. First step was labeling the originals with their sequence and master dimension. Then each piece was trimmed to the master dimension and labeled. Once labeled the miters were cut zip-zap on the Incra M1000. All the angles needed had presets so switching angles only takes a moment and no double checking needed.

Layout for the bandsawing of the curves was easy as I had saved the first cutoff as a pattern.









All thats left is some sanding as router prep and the edge routing. I had lifted the router plate, router, bit, & all and set it aside. So the plate just needs to be dropped back in place and the bit is ready to go. This is why I like plate mounted routers instead of ones with the router fixed to the stand. Esp for a saw side router.


----------



## Ransavi (Dec 12, 2021)

Madmark2 said:


> *Pool Table Rebuild*
> 
> Neighbor bought a used pool table. The bed and legs are OK, but the tops & sides are particle board covered with wood grain vinyl and are in mid decomp. The table and rails were not designed to be refelted as the rail assembly is two glued pieces with the felt trapped in-between.
> 
> ...


great


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Pool Table Rebuild*
> 
> Neighbor bought a used pool table. The bed and legs are OK, but the tops & sides are particle board covered with wood grain vinyl and are in mid decomp. The table and rails were not designed to be refelted as the rail assembly is two glued pieces with the felt trapped in-between.
> 
> ...


Glad to see it hasn't got you all snookered!


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Rick Head Gadget Box*

Some of you may have been watching the evolution of my Steampunk boxes:

Weather Station #1:









Followed by the more elaborate Weather Station #2:









This brings us to the Rick Head Gadget box, aka Weather Station #3:









Now this last one has little to do with woodworking but the wooden part (a servo opening lock box) was waiting on the rest to complete.

The box is two 12×12 Lexan sheets with 3D printed mounting bits. All of the circuitry is Arduino.

Build blog is HERE

Lemme know whatcha 'tink!


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Rick Head Gadget Box*
> 
> Some of you may have been watching the evolution of my Steampunk boxes:
> 
> ...


Very interesting Steampunk !


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Arduino Clock with Temp/Humidity*

This is another in a continuing series of weather stations. This one was built around Arduino CPU core and a scrolling red LED display. The entire unit was built with a Lexan front and rear panel and wrapped with walnut and black limba.









It does other things too. It does AM/PM or 24 Hr, F or C temp, It chimes on the hour (hours can be set). It has an alarm clock with everything backed up so it doesn't lose any setting after a power blip,. It has a "coffee pot" relay that comes on with the alarm and automatically shuts off after one hour. Most of the functions are remote controlled and it has a single knob and button for data entry.

The case is dado'd for the 1/8" red Lexan front panel and the back is rabbeted for the 1/4" Lexan back.

The thicker back allowed components to be mounted directly by drilling and tapping the Lexan for 6-32 screws.


> Tip: Hand tap Lexan, power tapping melts.


To hide the dado slots the top and bottom are end dado'd so none of the rabbets or dados for the panels show.

The little circuit cards that implement each Arduino function often have no mounting holes. I used my 3D printer to make holders, mounts, cable ends, and the like.

Everything is mounted with #6 or #4 hardware. All of the screws are SS Allen cap head machine screws. Both red fiber and SS washers along with nyloc nuts means the project will last a good long time.

The unit logs the weather information to an internal MicroSD card. This card can be removed and the data plotted (I haven't written that part yet.)

The alarm clock can say certain phrases to announce the hour and wake up. These canned phrases are stored on another microSD card, this one inserted in the onboard MP3 player.

Time is kept with a battery backup and the control params like the alarm time and state are stored in EEPROM so the box "never forgets".

Anyway, if you are interested in the electronics side of things, check out the build blog HERE


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *Arduino Clock with Temp/Humidity*
> 
> This is another in a continuing series of weather stations. This one was built around Arduino CPU core and a scrolling red LED display. The entire unit was built with a Lexan front and rear panel and wrapped with walnut and black limba.
> 
> ...


I really like this….nice job.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

Madmark2 said:


> *Arduino Clock with Temp/Humidity*
> 
> This is another in a continuing series of weather stations. This one was built around Arduino CPU core and a scrolling red LED display. The entire unit was built with a Lexan front and rear panel and wrapped with walnut and black limba.
> 
> ...


thats pretty damn cool mark.nothing i could ever figure out.


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *Arduino Clock with Temp/Humidity*
> 
> This is another in a continuing series of weather stations. This one was built around Arduino CPU core and a scrolling red LED display. The entire unit was built with a Lexan front and rear panel and wrapped with walnut and black limba.
> 
> ...


~2000 lines (including comments) of Ardruino's version of C++

This is my 2nd Arduino project. Here's the first:









It didn't get posted here because there was no wood in it. 

I made lots of pieces using my $150 3D printer, review HERE


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*3D printed TK splitter & install tool*

Got an advert that gave me an idea to steal. Splitter alignment tool and splitter for $30. Screw that, for a couple pieces of plastic and drill, I can 3D print it myself.









Drill Guide Straddles TK blade.

The alignment tool is designed to straddle the blade to provide a drill guide that is exactly aligned with the Thin Kerf blade. The three 3/32" locator bosses are 1/2" apart.









Splitter Insert

Once the holes are drilled, this slips in and acts as the actual splitter. Actual thickness is still being dialed in 0.008" (200um - one layer) at a time. They have to print flat for strength. if printed vertically the pins snap off too easily.

I'll keep you all posted on how it works once I get it installed.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Madmark2 said:


> *3D printed TK splitter & install tool*
> 
> Got an advert that gave me an idea to steal. Splitter alignment tool and splitter for $30. Screw that, for a couple pieces of plastic and drill, I can 3D print it myself.
> 
> ...


How can I get the files to print some myself?


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Madmark2 said:


> *3D printed TK splitter & install tool*
> 
> Got an advert that gave me an idea to steal. Splitter alignment tool and splitter for $30. Screw that, for a couple pieces of plastic and drill, I can 3D print it myself.
> 
> ...


Got it dialed. Find the files at cults3d.com


----------



## joebob1611 (Dec 4, 2012)

Madmark2 said:


> *3D printed TK splitter & install tool*
> 
> Got an advert that gave me an idea to steal. Splitter alignment tool and splitter for $30. Screw that, for a couple pieces of plastic and drill, I can 3D print it myself.
> 
> ...


If I'm not mistaken, the commercial version has the pins offset slightly to allow for the splitter to act as a feather board. In other words, one side is perfectly aligned with the blade and the other is offset slightly toward the fence. The TK splitter has an offset of about .002" on one side. Might be a useful addition if you didn't already account for it.


----------

