# Which sharpening stones should I get?



## BobD4950 (Aug 30, 2010)

I'm hesitant to ask this because I'm sure there are as many ways to sharpen tools as there are woodworkers, but here goes. Currently I'm using sandpaper on plate glass ( Scary Sharp method) and it works great. I've reached the point though where it is getting to be a real pain changing the paper so often. So now is the time to move to sharpening stones. I've been looking at the Norton stones (1000, 4000 & 8000), but I know there are other options. I want decent stones but with the price about $250. My chisels are O1 but my plane blades are A2. Any suggestions?


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

I'd say try the water stones. I've used sand paper, oilstones and water stones. They all seem to work equally well. The only one I did't like was the oilstones; mainly because I felt I never quite got the oil off of my hands before I went back to the wood.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I started with water stones. My major complaints with them were two fold. First, my shop isn't heated, so that was a hassle. Second, they needed flattening a lot. I hated the mess. I never really went the sand paper route, but I'm sure they are better than that.

I then managed to pick up some oil stones in a lot of other tools I bought. I essentially got them for next to nothing. What I liked over the water stones was I didn't need to use water, so I didn't have the freezing issue or the mess. I used a diesel fuel / mineral oil mix which meant I didn't worry about rusting my tools. The point I didn't like was I never knew what grit I was using, (used vintage stones) but they worked well and I still use them. The oil is still messy, but not as near as bad as the water.

I recently caught a buy-it-now on ebay for 4 dia-sharp DMT diamond stones for a really reasonable price. I bought them on a whim. I like them so far. I've only sharpened about 5 or 6 planes on them, but they work well. What I like about them is I have a nice uniform set. A course, medium, fine and ultra fine. They do slide around on the bench a lot more than the oil stones, so I'll need to get them in a base of some sort.

So for a suggestion. If your a flea market, antique shop, trying to find the second hand stuff, go for the oil stones. You can get them pretty cheap, they work really well, and in a reasonable amount of time you can have a set. By a set, I mean a course, medium and fine stone. I've got 6 or 8 I've picked up over the course of time, some I like, some not so much, but I don't have $50 in all of them.

If your going new, its a tough call. I would love to have a set of new oil stones. I think in reality for new, diamonds may be a woodwrokers best friend. They never need flattening, you can use glass cleaner, water and murphys oil soap, and a host of other lubricants (I understand you shouldn't use diesel fuel or similar substrates) and they are suppose to last a very long time.

Its an interesting question. I'm cheap, so I'm glad I found what I did.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

All you need is a coarse friable grinding wheel, a 1200 stone and
a 6000 stone. The difference between 6000 and 8000 grit is
not big in terms of sharpness. Both stones will polish blades
to a very, very sharp edge.

4000 is a polishing stone. You can go straight from a 1000 or
1200 to 6000 or 8000.

The Nortons are nice because they are bigger than the Japanese
stones. That's their main advantage.

You can get a 2 King stones in 1200 and 6000 for about $60 for
the pair. Then a white friable wheel for about $20 more and
you're good to go. For good measure you can get a buffing
wheel for the other end of your grinder (no fancy slow-speed
grinder needed) and a stick of jeweler's rouge for carving tools
and for polishing carving tools.

If you own the grinder already this stuff will set you back about $120.

Oh. Get a Nagura stone too.


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## rum (Apr 28, 2011)

I would recommend a set of Sigma Select II stones over the Norton's. I have one of the two sided Norton and its "ok", but the Sigma's are faaaaaasssssttt in comparison.. Especially in comparison on harder steel like A2. They're sold by http://www.toolsfromjapan.com and http://leevalley.com , I've heard some folks say the ones from Tools From Japan are slightly better, but am very happy with the lee valley ones.

I also have a set of "halls" Arkansa stones from knifemerchant.com (which had by far the best prices I've seen). These stay on the bench where I don't want water.

If you do get a set of water stones (whichever ones) do also get:

- stone holders, totally worth it

- a bottle of "HoneRite Gold" also known as "No-Rust Water Additive". Amazing stuff, keeps the rust off

- a truing stone. Don't have to get fancy the $30 ones seem to work about as well to me (although pickier people will certainly disagree)


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## yrob (May 26, 2008)

I use japanese waterstones, 1000, 4000 and 8000. I flatten them pretty quickly with a DMT dia-flat lapping plate. I draw wavy lines on the stone with a pencil then use the diamond plate to remove the marks. Takes just a few strokes.
I prefer waterstones to oil stones because its way less messy. They cut relatively fast and produce a very keen edge.


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## BobD4950 (Aug 30, 2010)

Loren, I've never heard of a friable grinding wheel. What is it and where can I get it?


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## KenBry (Sep 13, 2011)

Bob, 
I have a king 800, norton, 1000/8000. I got them at woodcraft out there in chandler. I also recommend the stone holder and the veritas guide.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Norton makes them.

http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Pedestal-Abrasive-Straight-Thickness/dp/B001DSZ35K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1329882807&sr=8-1

Lee Valley sells them too. The wheels have some bad reviews on 
Amazon, but my Norton wheel is not a problem.

Apparently some buyers have had wheels that vibrate, so 
by from a retailer that will send you a new one without yanking
your chain if you get a bad one.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

After fussing around with sharpening systems for a few years
I adopted Ian Kirby's grinder and waterstone method. I built
the simple tool rest he describes for my grinder. He did
write a book about sharpening, but I learned all I needed
to know from FWW article from some old issue.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I agree with the aluminum oxide wheel. I do a lot of restores on badly neglected planes and they are invaluable when you need to cut back a major flaw. I also like the hollow grind for the first few times on the stone (what ever type you choose). Once the angle is correct, i usually don't go back to the grinder though.

For a jig, I just bought a cheap eclipse type. I can't recall the brand, but it was $13 +/-. It Works well. I've been doing more and more free hand, especially on the thicker blades.


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## yrob (May 26, 2008)

Lie-Nielsen also has a brochure on their website on sharpening. Very nice, one page and summarizes what to do when using stones. Its hung on the wall of my shop.


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## Danpaddles (Jan 26, 2012)

http://www.amazon.com/General-International-15-232M1-Sander-Grinder/dp/B002KHNLRU

then, toss a cardboard honing wheel on to finish your edge. 
http://www.amazon.com/Sharpening-Wheels-Diameter-Center-Adapter/dp/B000HFQU98/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1329887555&sr=1-13

'nuff said.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Well Bob, about the only thing not said was stick with sand paper. Deciding on a stone type is like deciding on the color of a dress shirt. 
1. who likes wearing dress shirts
2. each store has a different brand, color and fabric
3. cost doesn't always equate
4. and again, who likes wearing dress shirts


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## rustynails (Jun 23, 2011)

Anyone using ceramics stones? I have heard good things about them, much like the DMT diamond stones.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

There are more opinions about this subject than just about anything else.

If you are interested in my take on possible sharpening methods take a look. http://lumberjocks.com/RGtools/blog/25281

In brief…pick a system that you like that gets you to a razor sharp edge…they all work, you just need to find the one that works for you.


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## BobD4950 (Aug 30, 2010)

Thanks Ryan. I checked out your blog. Good info. Guess I just have to pull the trigger on one system and see how it works for me. I want to start sharpening freehand so I may end up with the waterstones and strop. By the way, I've been following your Occasional Table class because I'm moving away from power tools completely. Good job and thanks.


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## handyrandyrc (Feb 3, 2012)

I use the Spyderco ceramic stones-the regular and fine stones. They are fantastic.


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## Sirgreggins (Apr 12, 2012)

i currently have waterstone and just saw a dia-sharp extra fine stone on sale for ~$25. What grit is the equivalent to? Does the extra fine stone replace a 6000 or 8000 grit stone? thanks


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Extra-Extra Coarse
Extreme repair of a very damaged edge (120 mesh, 120 micron)

Extra Coarse
Fix and restore a damaged edge (220 mesh, 60 mircron)

Coarse
Quickly sharpen a neglected edge (325 mesh, 45 micron)

Fine
Put a keen edge on a maintained tool (600 mesh, 25 micron)

Extra Fine
Sharpen to a razor edge (1200 mesh, 9 micron)

Ceramic
Start a polished and refined edge (2200 mesh, 7 micron)

Extra-Extra Fine
Extra fine polish to an extreme edge (8000 mesh, 3 micron)


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## starringemma (Aug 15, 2012)

sorry wrong thread, deleting


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Emma, for $30, you didn't do great, but you didn't do bad either. The 102 is one of the nicest little apron blocks around.

The craftsman #6 can be whipped up into a nice user as well.

As for the handyman, well…..it can be made to work. The last one I bought I paid $2 for. I've restored several and decided the next time a vendor offers me one for $2, I'm going to pay him the $2 and ask him ti give it to the next guy that shows interest.


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## starringemma (Aug 15, 2012)

I wonder if you could go to a company that makes head stones and pick up some of there flat scrap granite and and use them as sharpening stones?


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