# good quality straight edge?



## tech76 (Apr 22, 2015)

Looking for a quality straight edge. 
3 feet long minimum
Intend to use for furniture work and also ensuring jointer parallel etc. 
What brands? What prices are good?


----------



## boatz (Nov 17, 2013)

Veritas - they have steel and aluminum. I got the steel


----------



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Lowes and Home Depot both carry 1/8" x 2" x 8' aluminum flat bar that works great for a straight edge, you can cut it to length.


----------



## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

I like the American made, lifetime warranty, guaranteed accuracy straight edge rules from Woodpeckers.

The SERX 36 is probably what you are looking for.


----------



## BroncoBrian (Jan 14, 2013)

Definitely do not go the HomeDepot route. That is not close to accurate or straight enough for use as a quality straight edge. Assuming you want quality and accuracy. If this is an edge for drawing lines then this would be fine.

I bought the Woodpecker 36" which is beautiful and useless. Skip it. The rule is too high to stand up straight on its own and too light weight if you use a feeler gauge (which is why you but a straight edge). It tips over and is not easy to weight down especially for jointer setup.

I returned it, bought a 24" because the case is cool and I wanted it. Then I ordered the Veritas from Lee Valley that boatz mentioned.

It is awesome! .001" across the entire length (3x better than the woodpecker), thick enough to stand on end on its own, heavy, will last forever. It is a no bull straight edge with one purpose.

Very valuable item for anyone who wants to know how well set up their machines are. If you want a pretty ruler than also works as a straightedge the woodpecker is #2, but there is a big gap between #1 and #2.


----------



## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

I would say, how much accuracy are you willing to pay for. Big box stores I'd say crap shoot, the more zero's to the right of the decimal the more it will cost. Also, keep in mind that is generally in ratio to a foot of length. For example if it's .001 accuracy rated, that means it can be off that much per foot of length.

For my money, I like wood peckers stuff. Starrett would be good even woodcraft brand, but you just don't get the same degree of accuracy. The higher degree the more $$$$. What ever is your tolerance is the key.


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Home Depot route…but, invest in a GOOD 48" Level. As long as you take care of it properly, it will do that job, and a few others. Used mine to build the foundation for Sidney, OH Middle School's new building in 2002. When it wasn't in use, it stayed in it's PADDED case. Good enough to build a school? Shouldbe more than adequate for a wood worker to use. Save the high tolerance stuff for machinist type of work, as it does call for that 0.00001" of flat. Wood?..Wood will move a lot more than that. And will keep moving during it's lifetime…

Get as good a metal bodied or even Mahoganey bodied level as you can find, it will last a lifetime as well, IF you take care of it.


----------



## tech76 (Apr 22, 2015)

Thank you very much everyone, I appreciate the advice.


----------



## BroncoBrian (Jan 14, 2013)

> For example if it s .001 accuracy rated, that means it can be off that much per foot of length.
> 
> For my money, I like wood peckers stuff. Starrett would be good even woodcraft brand, but you just don t get the same degree of accuracy.
> 
> - bonesbr549


True about the accuracy per foot on most products. The Woodpecker 36" is .001" per foot. So as much as .003" per the length.

The Veritas from LV is .001" over the 36" length. They make that clear. Definitely superior and with in $5-8 of the price, plus it is better for machine setup in every way except for the WP rule.

Starrett is more accurate than woodpecker, but I could not find a good straightedge from them, their stuff was too thin to stand on its own with interference.

As to the wood moving comment, you are right about that. But my guess is you do not buy this for checking the straight side of a board, it is for setting up tools. And that falls into the machine category. If a jointer is truly coplaner or .001" then good for you. At least you know your issues are with your wood and not your tool when something does not go well. We are talking about $20-80 of difference to setup $1,000s of tools. Definitely worth it!

Also, check out the One-Way Gauge, that is the best blade setup tool you can buy.


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Checking coplanar on my jointer…









Ohio Tool Co. #81, a 22" long wood bodied jointer plane. A hump was around the mouth opening. I was checking to see IF the sole was now flat enough to get it back to work. Lengthwise, and the diagonals were both checked. Plane works great. Of course, after a 100 years of use, even I would get out of flat….


----------



## Lsmart (Jan 1, 2012)

+1 Veritas. Had mine for years use it every day.


----------



## JohnChung (Sep 20, 2012)

+1 Veritas. Surprisingly cheaper than some big brands


----------



## PatrickH (Mar 26, 2013)

I love my 24" Starrett. It was expensive, but will be a lifetime tool. It's accurate enough for machine setup as well.


----------



## BroncoBrian (Jan 14, 2013)

> I love my 24" Starrett. It was expensive, but will be a lifetime tool. It s accurate enough for machine setup as well.
> 
> - PatrickH


I wanted to get one. I don't think there was a 36", at least not that I saw. Do you use a wood block to keep it standing up, or just hold it? Their stuff is awesome, Starrett comb square is pretty incredible. I bought one and threw away 3 other squares that day when I realized that the were neither square nor straight. Good stuff.


----------



## skatefriday (May 5, 2014)

I just happened to buy the Empire Blue e2g 48" level from
Home Depot yesterday. I used it to check a straight edge
on a set of stiles I was jointing by hand (my only jointer
is a Woodcraft #7 and a shooting board) and it worked 
quite well for the job. The machined edge on the bottom
was wide enough to set the stile on and with a light behind
spot any uneven areas.


----------



## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> I love my 24" Starrett. It was expensive, but will be a lifetime tool. It s accurate enough for machine setup as well.
> 
> - PatrickH
> 
> ...


Starrett Straight Edges are available in 6 lengths:

12 inch - 12 inches long, 1-13/32 inches wide and 11/64 inch thick.
18 inch - 18 inches long, 1-13/32 inches wide and 11/64 inch thick.
24 inch - 24 inches long, 1-13/32 inches wide and 11/64 inch thick.
*36 inch - 36 inches long, 2-13/32 inches wide and 7/32 inch thick.*
48 inch - 48 inches long, 2-13/32 inches wide and 7/32 inch thick.
72 inch - 72 inches long, 3-5/32 inches wide and 9/32 inch thick.


----------



## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

deleted


----------



## Luthierman (Jun 4, 2015)

Been researching this and thought I could add a bit to this not so old thread.

hmmm…I have been considering the same thing lately. For the life of me I cant get my jointer to to make straight boards. There is always a snipe. Albeit a tiny one. I set it up in the past with a very good level (stabila) but I think that those have more deflection than a standard precise machinist straight edge. They are made to check plumb and level, not flatness. While yes, most woodworkers don't need some of these tolerances, sometimes I do, at least as a benchmark. When I join a guitar back or top together, it needs to be perfect. Not just "good enough." I have been using the jointer to get close and then finish the edge with the same aforementioned level with sandpaper glued to the edge. It works well but takes loads of time when there are snipes to sand out. This is only a 24' level. If I used any bigger level to set the jointer up, I would never trust it as it would have even more deflection than the smaller one. So my decided remedy is to get a real straight edge and use it as intended. This will at the very least shave time off of the amount of super fine tuned sanding required to get that beautiful no-rock edge.

My quick few thoughts on all of this are the following:

1. Aluminum doesn't make sense as everything I own is cast. One fouled attempt where I drop it, I fear it will be no good, dented in the least. 
2. Accuracy does matter. It is good to know that it is your material, not your machine that gives you fits. Eliminating variables is a good thing.
3. Pre-stressed steel seems to be the way to go. I know it will still move. If I remember correctly, steel moves at one thousandth per one inch of thickness per 100 degrees, or something like that. With a shop that only has a 40 degree temp difference throughout the year, it should remain fairly accurate and reliable and even more so since it has been pre-stressed. 
4. Levels are not a precision machinist straight edge.

Thats all I have on this subject.

Jesse


----------



## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

get a starrett


----------



## Luthierman (Jun 4, 2015)

Thinking about a 36 in veritas. I own lots of starrett stuff and have no qualms whatsoever with their product. Just can shell out $300.00 right now.


----------



## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

Groz Also makes a nice 24inch straight edge.It has two cut outs for handling.Not sure how it compares to a starret but I like mine a bit more than the veritas.


----------



## BroncoBrian (Jan 14, 2013)

> Thinking about a 36 in veritas. I own lots of starrett stuff and have no qualms whatsoever with their product. Just can shell out $300.00 right now.
> 
> - Luthierman


I love Starrett but for the straight edge, the Veritas is superior. It is heavier and thicker. You will be able to let it stand on its own better. .001" ovee the entire 36" length is awesome.

I have Starrett, Veritas, and Woodpecker. Sounds like a boring review, but in short, the Veritas is best, Starrett second, Woodpecker is just pretty but useless unless you have three hands and the rounded bottom ruins it as a straight edge.


----------



## tech76 (Apr 22, 2015)

I do appreciate the voice of experience from those that have gone this route before. These reviews and suggestions are a real benefit in helping a novice woodworker make informed choices that save money and give the best results aka "Bang for the Buck". I have never been disappointed with the purchases I have made based on such good advice. Years ago I asked about a sabre saw purchase. The Bosch was recommended and it has proven to be a truly great tool for what it is needed for. I also purchased a Delta Unisaw years ago and it is the mainstay of my workshop. I would really have been disappointed to spend tablesaw money and found out afterwards that I was wrong. While a straight edge may not be in the same spend category it is still a matter of getting best value for the money and use required. 
Again my thanks to all who have taken their time to post.


----------



## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

> Thinking about a 36 in veritas. I own lots of starrett stuff and have no qualms whatsoever with their product. Just can shell out $300.00 right now.
> 
> - Luthierman
> 
> ...


The SERX does NOT have a rounded bottom and stands on its edge just fine.


----------



## BroncoBrian (Jan 14, 2013)

Brad - I have the pictured straight edge. If has a inverted V-shape and both edges are rounded. 1/16th of the width does not touch the table. The width at the base it .25" but the softened edge makes the effective base .21". Compared to the Veritas at the same price, it is about 1/2 the base width.

For table saw setup it is ok, but for jointer setup, the WP will not stand out far enough on its own like thicker a thicker straight edge.

I have all three. The WP is the prettiest! It is also not machines to the same spec, though plenty good enough!

In that picture, if you used a .005 or great feeler gauge, it can know it over. Kind of annoying.


----------



## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Starrett hands down, the best; no comparison.


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

We've bought some from MSC Industrial check our molder beds and fences and our finger joiner. They also have a lot of mechanics and machinists tools. It's a great source.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## ElChe (Sep 28, 2014)

I use a laser beam for all set ups. I got it from Dr. Evil. That way, any time anyone asks me what I use to set up my tools, I can look at them and say "A frickin' laser beam!"

Veritas actually. The aluminum one. Some day I will drop it and break it. Until then, it works great. I actually have two. Helpful during sword fights with my nephew.


----------



## Luthierman (Jun 4, 2015)

I like the way you think.


----------



## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

It would be interesting to know what Real Machinist and Millwrights use for straight edges. You know, the people who make a living use those kind of tools.

I do know when the Felder tech can to my shop to set up my saw and J/P he brought a Starrett 6' foot straight edge. The same one I have.


----------

