# Repeatable thin rips on a table saw



## fstellab (Sep 9, 2012)

Hi Folks,

I got a nice table saw (R4512) because I am going to embark on a project that will require me to do a lot of ripping hardwood to 2" and 1/2" strips. So now I am looking for a ripping sled, possibility 2 ripping sleds one for the 2" the other for the 1/2". It is essential that these rips are the same size day after day, so I am thinking anything adjustable, including my fence will not work.

I have looked all over this site and other places for non adjustable plan, some of Incra stuff will work, but at that price I can hire a professional.

The wood I will be using (Macacauba) eventually is very hard, right now I am training my self with poplar.

I have on order:

Table Saw tune up kit
Zero-Tollarance Insert plate
Tenryu RS-25524-U 10" Rapid-Cut Ultra Thin Saw Blade 
10" Coated Thin Kerf Crosscut Blade
I have the Gripper and the usual Table Saw Safety Kit

Here is the plan:
I need to make scores of slats that will be part a vented shelf. These slats are roughly 1/2" x 2" x 18" 
The wood will be 13/16"s x 4" x 48"










I plan to cut a 2" rip from the wood, then turn the 13/16" x 2" x 48" on its side and cut it in half, yielding a
1/2" x 2" x 48" slat.

I really need some sort on jig that will help me make those cuts exactly the same day after day.

Thanks
-Fred


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

These jigshttp://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18056&site=ROCKLER work well. You can make your own easily, they are a simple design if you don't want to spend the money.


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## IrreverentJack (Aug 13, 2010)

Fred, There are quite a few thin rip jig posts on the site. You might be able to just turn a feather board around in the miter slot to use as a stop when you adjust the fence. I would also use a few feather boards while ripping the slats. -Jack


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## peterbb (Feb 20, 2012)

I would keep a "reference slat" that could be put between the blade and fence when setting the fence position.

Alternatively, you could make two jigs/fences that would ride in the mitre slot, and be clamped to the table so they don't move, and are the desired distance from the blade.

The dimensions you mention don't add up - don't forget to allow for the blade thickness when calculating the width and thickness of your slats. My blade is 1/8" thick, so I would get two 1 15/16" wide slats from your 4" board - IF the board is really 4.000" wide.

Slicing a 13/16" thick board in half would give me two 11/32" thick slats, allowing for the 1/8" blade kerf.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Ditto what Peter said about using the reference slat to set your fence. That's going to be just as accurate as any jig you could make, IMO.

Have you actually tried ripping a 13/16×2" board as you propose? It's a tricky cut, and not one I'd want to be doing repetitively.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

In addition to the fractions issue, 48" strips won't 
come out straight. The wood will move after
you rip it both times. Not always noticeably,
but it will often.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

There is something wrong with your math. If you rip a 2" wide strip from 4" wide stock, the left over piece will be 2" minus the saw blade kerf. Ripping the 2"x13/16" will give you 0ne 2×1/2 strip. The most you can expect to get from the wood you are going to use is: two pieces, 1-7/8"x1/2"; cut that to 18" long and you will have four pieces; the rest will be scrap.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I made a jig similar to this one for ripping 1/4 thick slats to make some crates. It works well.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

*Here is a Jig that will also do it... Just fine...*


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## Alongiron (Jan 10, 2011)

If you have a band saw, I would rip the pieces on it using a good wood slicer blade from Highland woodworking. Finish the pieces off by using a thickness planer, this should help you to remove any saw marks and insure that all of the pieces are exactly the same


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Okay, here is an idea I haven't tried, though I may have seen it somewhere. Start with a 4' piece of 1X4 (or 2X4). Run it most of the way through the TS to take off a strip from the edge the width that you want (actually the width minus blade thickness). Finish the slot where the arc of the circular blade didn't cut with a BS or handsaw. Cross cut the board just enough to remove the strip. Fasten some sort of handle to this board, close enough to the near end that you will be able to push it through without having to overreach. Now you have a board 4' long with a little hook at the end. Place your work piece against the board with the end resting against the hook. Run it through the blade. For your next cut, and all subsequent, just repeat. Once set up, there's no need to move the fence through the whole operation. Should go quite fast.

Just looked back at your specifications. For 18" slats, wouldn't it be easier to use 3 footers? Otherwise you're going to have a lot of 12" offcuts to shovel out of the way. You could start with 6 footers, if available, or you could get five 18" out of an 8' board with only 6" of waste.

As I say, I haven't tried this, so there may be something I'm overlooking. Perhaps someone will see the flaw in this scheme so I won't waste my time trying it, as now I'm quite curious to see if it might work.


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## tomd (Jan 29, 2008)

I agree with Bondo. I cut alot of thin strips and I use Rockler's thin strip jig, inexpensive and very accurate.


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## fstellab (Sep 9, 2012)

Folks,

I purchased the wood woodworkers source, they have Board Feet kits … so I don't know exactly what boards I am going to get. AllI know is that they will be 13/16th's depth and no length > 48".

The length of the slats will be 12" or 24" depending on the wall unit, so I am thinking I will cut the boards down to 12" or 24" before I make the slats.

As for the Saw Blade, I called the folks who are supplying me the wood, they suggested I get:

Tenryu RS-25524-U 10" Carbide Tipped Saw Blade ( 24 Tooth ATB Grind - 5/8" Arbor - 0.079 Kerf)

So I did, it wasn't cheap.

Again, my primary goal is to make them all the same size, if that actual size is off a bit that's no problem.

Thanks
-Fred


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

Am I the only one who uses the fence? These show a short piece but I'd cut longer ones the same way, they'd just be easier.


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## fstellab (Sep 9, 2012)

*> Here is a Jig that will also do it… Just fine…
>
>-Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: >http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"*

Hi Joe,

That is a neat jig … I think I will give it a try … starting out with 2 holes instead of the sliding slot, then when I am done with the project, I will extend the holes into the slot for future use.

I really want a jig for this project that I can put into place quickly put is still safe and consistent.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

*I really need some sort on jig that will help me make those cuts exactly the same day after day.*

This statement makes me think you are going into some sort of serious production with this item.
If that is the case, I would use a production method for it.

That is to say, If I were going to do this as a business, I would use a gang rip and a moulder to make these pieces accurately and in volume. This could be done for the slats as well as the end rails. For volume production, this is the only way to go.

You don't even need to buy this equipment, as many hardwood suppliers or molding houses will run this for you for a nominal fee. Otherwise, this would be very monotonous one-by-one day-after-day and the quality would be unreliable.


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## fstellab (Sep 9, 2012)

Serious production … I only wish ...

The issue for "day after day" is that I am a newbie … so everything I do takes a bit longer ..
combined with my schedule, which only allows me 15min on a weekday and a few hours over the
weekend, I needed something to setup these cuts without a lot of fuss.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Maybe I didn't understand your post but it seems to me all you need to do is cut a 2 inch block to use as a spacer so you can quickly set your fence and rip away.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

All this makes me glad I have my Incra fence.

Just saying.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I use the same method *shipwright* does!

I have cut strips as thin as 1/16" repeatedly without an issue plus the push block keep my fingers out of the way while holding down the stock at the same time!


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## fstellab (Sep 9, 2012)

I did consider the setup blocks … but not being sure of my woodworking skills .. I thought it was a silly idea, first I would have to buy more then one set, I don't think there is a setup block that is 2" wide.

Then I was thinking if there was anything else that was exactly 2" and 11/16ths wide .. like a a hunk of marble, now I am thinking i could get some really hard wood, measure it carefully, and make my own setup block.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

There is always the craftmanship of setting the fence to a precise location repeatedly.

If needed you can cut a sample in a scrap piece and compare it to a prototype sample in order to set up your cut on subsequent days.

Some people use the incra jig setup, I manage to make do with a measuring tape.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Google set-up blocks
Example: http://www.amazon.com/Set-Up-Blocks-Precision-Machinists/dp/B00134DPM2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1358290053&sr=8-1&keywords=set-up+blocks

I have a set made by Wood River but I guess Woodcraft has stopped carrying the product. It has blocks from 1/16th inch to 1/2 inch plus the block that is 1-2-3. So you can combine the blocks to make just about any spacer you might need.

Used them yesterday to space some drawer glides.

Edit: Here is another set similar to what I have.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/veritasset-upblocks.aspx


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

After re-reading your original post, I see what others are saying. You can not cut 2 1/2 inch slices out of a piece of wood that starts out less than 1 inch. The width of the saw blade kerf will result in two thinner pieces. And that doesn't take into account that you will still have to do some sanding or planing to get the final deminsions.

An option might be to buy some 8/4 lumber, cut it into the desired lengths (18 inches?) then simply rip it into the 1/2 inch thin slices, which I have done with some maple.

See my project here. Not shown is the strips I ripped from the maple. I have them laid aside to assemble on a cold rainy day.

Note: You might see my set up block in one of the pics. I used it as a spacer.

Good luck.
Mike


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