# As The Lathe Turns



## greasemonkeyredneck

*How a Good Day Turned Bad*

In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder. 
The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this. 








It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop. 








After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again. 








Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before. 
Back story here:
I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one. 
I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.








Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going? 
Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long. 








So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven. 
















Up until this point, things were going just great for me. 
As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt. 
So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine. 
Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.








The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.








I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft. 
So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.

So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


oh that is to bad your lathe is messed up, dang, not for me but for you and your tool, im sorry its messed up, don't even give it a second thought William, maybe some day you will get it fixed or get a different one, then you can make me a bowl..i hope things work out …so what are you onto now…im sure it will be something really wonderful…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


I'm glad you came by Grizz. Just the man I need to talk to.

I can't do a bowl at the moment.
Don't tell, but I'm already dropping hints to my wife that I would really like to have a decent lathe. This is my second cheap one. I don't honestly think we will be affording one this year though.

However, you know my specialty is scroll work anyway. Give me a clue to what you might like.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


well i hope you get a better lathe sometime when its right for you guys, i have a feeling its a part of wood working you will excel at…you know i love all your work William, and if you did do some scroll work that had a grizzly or mountains, that would really tickle my fancy…but don't feel you need to do that , but if you want…you know i will love to have something you made..if i come across any lathe situations ill let you know, you just never know…let me ask you this, is there a machine shop in your area that could make you a new shaft..just a thought…grizz


----------



## ShaneA

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


The post was reading and sounding nice, up until the bent shaft. Maybe one will turn up sooner rather than later, then Grizz can have a pecan bowl. Good luck.


----------



## TedW

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


Time to hit Craigs List… lot's of deals on old lathes - not cheapies but decent ones that just need some TLC, and you're just the man who can get an old lathe working again.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


Grizz, the old lathe isn't worth putting that kind of money into. The only machine shops around here that have the ability to make that part are going to charge an arm and a leg to do it. 
Ted, I've been checking Craiglist for AGES looking for a better lathe. People in this area just aren't into tunring wood, or they aren't getting rid of their lathes.
Both of those topics brings me to this.
I've been looking at this lathe for some time. It gets good reviews, here on Lumberjocks and elsewhere. It seems to be one of those rare gems from Harbor Freight. My only concern is if my four jaw chuck is going to work on that lathe.

Shane, I hope I can get one sooner or later. I was really starting to get into it too.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


William- I think a local machine shop could either true that shaft of fabricate a new one for not much $. No wonder that other one whacked you in the head! I know nothing of lathes but wobble when spinning anything is NOT a good thing. Lets be careful out there.


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


What about the ice cream???


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


I don't know Andy. This lathe has other issues as well. As I said, it is one of those cheaply made tools that I bought second hand. I think it's going to boil down to one of those "you get what you pay for" deals.

Marty, what about the ice cream? 
You bring the salt rock, milk, and cream.
I got an ice cream maker and glass bowls.
Will that do?

I got up off my butt and went to the shop to check the paper work on my 4-jaw chuck. I *DO* have the correct adapter to fit that lathe I linked to in my previous response. I think that is going to be my next lathe.

I just need to figure out how to get Marty to pay for it.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


I feel your pain and understand the frustration. I'm going through the same thing with my TS.

Good things will come your way, I'm sure. You deserve it!!! Don't fret, just do a lot of research and a solution will present itself!!!


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


William - something better will come of this…..for sure…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


Thanks Randy.
I will be keeping my eyes peeled.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


Thanks Jeff.
I hope so.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


William, Sorry to hear about your lathe. Certainly one of those tools you can fall in love with or get addicted to very quickly. Hope you are able to come up with something in the not too distant future.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


I do to.
I said on another thread just a few minutes ago,
It appear I fell in love with wood turning just about the time my lathe bit the dust.
Hopfully I'll find something soon enough.

I have to go to bed now.
Since I can't turn a bowl tomorrow,
I'll need to do something different.
It's all good though.


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


William, I don't have any problem with buying you a new lathe.

Randy, give me your credit card…..


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


William- Did you see that video of that crazy Canuk turning that bowl by attaching a log to the hub of his front wheel? DO NOT TRY THIS!


----------



## KTMM

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


Shop made lathe time…....


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


William, my heart swelled with pride when I first read your tale when you found that sharpening made a difference. I was actually reading with a smile. When you showed the picture of the hollowed out bowl, I thought you took too big a bite for your first one! It takes a bit of practice and knowledge of what wood and lathe does by trial and error and I would far rather see you taking baby steps in the beginning rather than jumping in too deep water without knowi g how to swim and getting clunked in the head again. Also be sure to wear a full face shield. I have gotten pieces that were flung off and hit me in the face and if that shield wasn't there it would have drawn blood.

My heart sank when I saw that the shaft was bent and you had no more joy in being able to turn at present. Yes I know it's a huge bummer but better safe than hurt! I do hope you can find one sooner or later cause turning is fun.


----------



## ratchet

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


As you do not want to put any $ in a machine shop or replacement part, you might try building a small holding fixture, mark the high side, then hit it with a nylon faced hammer to adjust a thou here and a thou there to get it running true. Try to only adjust the bend. Support the ends with something that won't mar the threads. If its not bent across the entire length then move one of your end supports inward accordingly. Take it slow, and check it frequently. As you've given up on this lathe anyway what do you have to lose? This metod has worked for me in the past. Good luck and if you try it let us know if it worked or not.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


Marty, thank you, for the use of Randy's credit card. I think I'll start figuring out my lathe situation though while you two argue over the payment.

Andy, I have seen that video, and I would definately try it if I could get my wife out of site for a while so I could use her jeep.
What?
You don't thing I'd do that with my truck, do you?

Lucas, I have built many things, but I don't think I want to build a lathe. The only shop built lathes I have seen worth a hoot better than what is sitting on my bench already have been pole lathes. Actually though, if I thought my back would hold up to working it, I would be so all over a nice pole lathe.
Besides, if I had the equipment or means to make a decent home made one, then I could find someone to reasonable priced fix the shaft on the lathe I currently have.

Bearpie, thanks for the encouragement. 
It may take some time, but I will find another lathe. I enjoy it so much. I'll keep my eyes open and something will pop up sooner or later. At least I won't be sitting around worried about it. I'm back to scrolling today. That is what I do best after all.

Ratchet, thank you for the advice, but I've already beat you to that. I had it laid out with a jig for finding the high spot with a micrometer before five this morning. I had intentions of doing very much what you're suggesting and try strightening it.
Here's what I found out. 
The bend occurs on the inboard side just where the threads start. With that little bit being out of line, there is no way I'm going to be able to striaghten it without messing up the threads. I know this because I tried, and messed up the threads. As you said, I figured what did I have to lose.

All that being said, I think I MAY have a lathe. I have done some research on the lathe I posted a link to last night. It is one of those diamonds in the rough from Harbor Freight. I was a little skeptical at first because my first lathe was from harbor freight and was a piece of crap.
Anyway, this lathe appears to be the clone (or the same painted a different color) of a Jet lathe. Online, I have read plenty of good reviews of it. As a matter of fact, the only complaints I've read about it have been about things that I feel are to be expected from tools, such as a crappy belt that has to be replaced less than a year after purchase. Those things are all too true about even some of the high end tools. 
I discussed it with my wife last night. She has been bugging me about what to get me for Valentines Day (I've already bought her a nice necklace this year, she just doesn't know it yet), and for our wedding anniversary in March. She and I have come to an aggreement. She is planning on buying this lathe for me, and I am to understand that this is my Valentine AND anniversary gift. 
Since I am all too willing to live with that, she gets paid on Thurday. So, unless something goes wrong, we will be driving to Pearl, MS (about 40 miles from here) on Thursday to get me a lathe.

That brings me to Grizz.
Grizz, I picked out a scrolled portrait for you last night and was ready to ship it. Now that I think I'm getting a lathe though, I am going to wait and see if I can't send you a bowl as I originally promised as well.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


I had to post a seperate response to *Bearpie* in addition to what I said above.

I appreciate your concern. I have a habit of jumping in head first on things though. 
On hindsight, I think I was doing good considering. However, pecan is a very hard wood. After taking your advice on sharpening though, the tools cut through it like hot butter. It was amazing. The outside turned just like I've always imagined me doing in a dream. I think between you kicking me in the butt to get it done, and watching Alex do it in his video, I've found my secret to sharp lathe tools. It isn't a secret at all. I was just overthinking it by going through all the trouble with Paul Seller's method. Don't get me wrong, his method works. For lathe tools though, one just has to sharpen too often to go through that.
That being said, I don't know if it was just me or not, but I had to touch up the edge on those tools every fifteen minutes, or about that long, cutting that pecan. I'm hoping that it isn't just me. Pecan is a very hard wood. Is it normal to have to touch up the edge this much in hard wood?

I understand about me maybe being too ambitious. I think maybe I am being as far as bowl are concerned. Turning spindles however, or outside turnings, I think I've had a lot of practice. I've spent hours upon hours turning outside turnings. I haven't made much. I've just spent a lot of time practicing. For ever a year now, when I felt up to it, I would chuck up a piece of wood, turn some interesting shapes, only to rough it down to round again and make something different. I done this as a practice exercise. 
As for being ambitious on the bowls, I am at least trying to start with just simple bowls. What I want to do is much more. Eventually, I hope to do those fancy, deep, segmented turnings. I understand though that I am nowhere near ready for that. One day though….....

I do wear a full face shield when turning. It is the only tool that I wear a face sheild when using. I do this because I have already been clunked in the head before when I hit a knot on a spindle. The other day, when I mentioned getting hit in the head, it hit high on my forehead, just above where the face shield stops.

Thank you for your help. I was wondering if I have more questions once I get a new lathe if you'd mind me sending you a PM from time to time?


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


William,
GREAT news regarding the immenent lathe procurement!!!

Just goes to show…..
*LOVE* is the answer!!!

Here's an early *Congrats* on the Anniversary and lathe aquisition!!!

Looking forward to seeing the chips fly and the projects "turned" out by you!!!


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


hey hey, your back in business, this is great william, now you can push on to become a world class wood turner, congrats buddy, i saw you mention that your going to keep at the bowl project, that is great…cant wait to see what you end up doing, and how it looks…until then im sure some new eye popping new project will surface, and what about that new marble machine, wasnt it fantastic…he has to be some kind of engineer i think, or just a really smart guy..and i saw you were going to get the plans when he puts them out, cant wait to see your rendition…well onto the day, im really happy things worked out…cant wait to see your first turning on the new lathe….yee haw…...grizz


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


I was going to see if you wanted my old lathe, but that one has more capacity plus variable speed. You'll have to use it to make something for your wife.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


Thanks anyway Rich, but….............

Change of plans folks.
I officially have a lathe.
Eddie, a fellow Lumberjock, on another thread offered me his lathe. 
I had to drive to a long ways to get it, but I could have it.
So, I now have a Ridgid lathe sitting in the back of my Blazer.
My back is killing me, so I don't feel up to unloading it tonight. 
I will try my best to get ya'll a report tomorrow.
As an added bonus, I got to meet another Lumberjock that I'd been dying to meet anyway.

This works out better for me.
I kind of hated my wife spending her saved up money on something that I'm still learning on.
I think the Ridgid will get me moving again,
And at least I think parts will be easier to find for a Ridgid.
Then, if I get real good at a lathe, maybe I can move up to a better one at a later date.
Unless I see a helluva deal on Craiglist before then…..


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


your a determined man William, you remind me of myself, you should not have lifted that thing and you shouldn't be unloading it, but sometimes we gotta do what our bull headed mind tells us, ive cut down trees and handled it when i knew i shouldn't have, but we have these bullheaded drives, i hope maybe you can get some help to come over and help unload that lathe…you rest your back buddy…


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


Fantastic news William! That was a really nice gesture by Eddie!!!

Now be sure to get your young 'uns to move that lathe for you!!! Doctor's orders!!!

Kudos, Eddie, you're a stand up guy!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


Grizz, me and Eddie loaded it and it seems that neither of us had any business lifting it, but with some disassembly, and perseverence, we got it done. 
My older boys are coming tomorrow to help set it up. I hope to be making chips fly again real soon.

Randy, It sure was nice of Eddie. I am always amazed at what some people will do to help others. It give me a glimmer of hope for humanity after all.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


eddie- You are a class act!


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


William you and I have the same luck.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


Dave, that would be bad luck?
If it wasn't for bad luck we wouldn't have any luck atall!!!


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


But eddie changed William's luck!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


Yes he did Andy.
So true.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


I'm with boxcarmarty on this one….......hehehe


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How a Good Day Turned Bad*
> 
> In the responses to yesterday's blog, I told a friend of mine, Grizz, that I would turn him one of my bowls. I don't know why, as I'm still learning, but he hinted that he'd like one.
> Also, some things Bearpie said in response to that blog kept sticking in my mind. The main thing is sharpen my lathe tools. I've been and am using the Paul Sellers method of sharpening these days for pretty much everything. It works great for all my tools, except those lathe tools. It puts a sharp edge on them, but they never seem to cut as good as they used to when I was simply hitting them on a bench grinder.
> The thing is, my sharpening on the grinder was sort of a hit and miss thing as well. So I started thinking about it. I remembered seeing a video by Alex Harris, the teenage woodworker, about a jig he built for sharpening lathe tools. I looked it up and built this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was easy to build, and easy to use, just as Alex said it was. So I sharpened up a few of my tools, chucked up a piece of wood and tried it out. It made an amazing difference.
> Then I went back to thinking about Grizz's bowl. I really didn't have anything large enough to get started though in the way of wood. So I walked outside to smoke a cigarette. While standing at the fence, I looked out across my neighbor's field, and remembered the pecan tree he'd cut down about a year ago. It was just laying there in pieces that he had cut up. So I walked on over and asked him for a piece. He said to take all of it I wanted, so I took the only piece at the time that I was capable of carrying back to my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After chopping some of the edges sticking out off with an axe, I mounted it on the lathe. There was still a tiny bit of wood sticking out hitting the tools rest bracket though. I really did not want to take this heavy piece of wood back down again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I thought about an electric chain saw my wife had bought me some time ago. I'd never even turned this thing on before.
> Back story here:
> I have a messed up back, as some of you know. The last time I put myself in the hospital with my back, was from trying to crank a gas powered chain saw. Before I made it home from the hospital, my wife had sold the chain saw and bought me this electric one.
> I had scoffed at this little chain saw until today. It did a real good job though of trimming the offending wood off the pecan log that was on my lathe.
> Now let me tell you, I have to thank Bearpie and Alex Harris. The advice, and the now sharper than ever lathe knives made a world of difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, some of you may be asking yourself right about now, why in the world am I so determined to get this lathe thing going?
> Even before I got into woodworking as much as I am now, I have always, for some reason, been in awe of seeing guys take logs, bark and all, spinning them on a lathe, and using only knives, turning that log into something useful. The thing I've wanted most for a long time was to happily turn a bowl while standing ankle deep in wood chips, while more fly over my shoulder. I know some people may find it weird, but this is something I have just wanted for so long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, if any of you can understand what I wanted, and why, then you ought to already know where the topic of this photo is heading. This was *FUN*!
> This photo was taken before I even finished today. By the end of it all, I was turning a bowl, ankle deep in wood chips, and neck deep in heaven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, things were going just great for me.
> As I got deeper into the bowl though, no matter how sharp the tools were, no matter how careful I was, edges would sometimes dig in on the inner sides, or in the other material I was trying to hog out, and things got dangerous, QUICK. This last photo was where I decided that enough was enough. I had to back up and figure out what I was doing wrong before I wound up getting seriously hurt.
> So there I stood, as I sometimes do, thinking things over. As I was doing so, I started rolling my turning round and round on the lathe with my hands. I noticed something didn't feel right. Now, I'm no expert turner. I'm only a beginner, but I knew that there shouldn't be that much wobble up and down in this. The outside seems perfectly round, but the inside was off. I can't explain it, but it was just off. It was off center and off round. What was going on here?
> The first thing I checked was that the turning was still firmly in the jaws of the chuck. It was. I couldn't figure that out anyway, because the outside still seemed fine.
> Then I took the bowl out and spun the chuck itself at low speed, under the power of the motor. It looked like it had some wobble to it. So I pulled out my micrometer and set it up in a makeshift stand. Sure enough, the chuck was turning out of round.
> So then I pulled the chuck off and checked the shaft on the lathe itself. Sure enough, the shaft was not turning true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I thought about was bearings. So I tore the head of the lathe apart. I could not feel any play in the bearings though. So I started checking everything that could possibly be causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't believe it myself, but the offending part if the shaft itself. It is bent. I rolled the shaft by itself along the best know flat surface in my shop, the table saw. There is noticable wobble at the inner threaded section of the shaft. With this crude checking, I cannot tell if the bend is somewhere in the middle of the shaft, or just at the end. It appears the outboard side is running true, so I don't think it's the middle of the shaft. I don't know. What I do know is that, being a cheap chinese made machine that I bought used, I have no dilissions of finding a replacement shaft.
> So, unless I can figure out a place to find parts for this machine, or win the lottery (and I don't play) so I can buy a new lathe, my bowl turning days are done for the time being. That just turned my day to crap, because I was thoroughly enjoying it.
> 
> So Grizz, how about something besides a bowl???


About the ice cream?
Or about using Randy's credit card to buy tools?
Or both?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*As The Lathe Turns........Again*









I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me. 
So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.








And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though. 
Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.








Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling. 








Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff. 
I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much. 
I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl. 
















When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.

.

So here's where I'm at now.
I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it. 
Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.

A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.

















So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


----------



## ShaneA

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Back in the game quickly. Nice, and congrats to you and fellow LJ Eddie.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Well, you had quite the day!!! Glad you weren't seriously hurt, during yet another incident!!!
Take your time…
You'll get there!!!

Nice to see that you were able to "hammer" out a mallet!!!
Grizz is lucky to be recieving the mallet, let alone the first project from your *new* lathe!!!

William, I'm happy to are back in action!!!


----------



## luv2learn

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


I wish you happy, trouble free turning with your new lathe.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Shane, I was wanting to get back to it as quickly as possible. So when I got the message about the lathe yesterday, I jumped right on it.

Randy, I will get there one day. This was supposed to be a part time event during times when I need a break from scrolling and such. It has taken a lot of time lately though. That's ok. I like it enough that you can bet I'll be doing a lot more turning as time allows.

Luv2Learn, thank you. I think I finally have a decent lathe. Hopefully, my troubles are over for a while anyway.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Well, That WAS a nice looking bowl there William…..more learning going on…....If it makes you feel any better…...I had had a major shop screwup today…......that's how we learn.

Really a nice gift from Eddie and glad to hear that it is working well…...

Nice mallet…....


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


William you have a few different options to take the foot off the bottom of a bowl. You can put the bowl in your chuck with Cole jaws, attaching the top of the bowl to the jaws. Then just take the foot off with a bowl gouge. Make sure to make the bottom a little concave, so that it sits flat.

You can use a parting tool to part the bowl off. Basically you cut into the foot with the parting tool till it's almost gone, then put one hand on the bowl and part the last bit off with the parting tool. You usually end up with a lil nub you can take off with a chisel and sand down. I like a thin parting tool for this. Cap'n Eddie on YouTube has a video about how to make one from an edger blade or old sawzall blade. I made mine from a sawzall blade.

You can use a hand saw to part it off, basically the same as with a parting tool. Run it on the lathe and cut most of the way through the foot. Then hold the bowl with one hand and saw the last bit off. This usually leaves a cleaner bottom, but the bowl may not sit quite flat.

Other things you can do include chucking the bowl on a recess cut into the bottom of the blank, using a glue block, and friction chucks. Hope that helps.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


wow William, there both so beautiful, i cant tell you how grateful i am for your generous heart, i love the hammer and the scroll saw art, the picture will go into my bedroom so i can see it when i lay in bed, and the hammer, its just what i need…and that pecan is beautiful…im sorry this has caused you so much grief, but at least you have learned some things, that scroll saw bear and mountains is just beautiful, there both so wonderful and i thank god for being so kind to me, and i will gladly wait until the time is right to send it to me…thank you William…i hope your stomach area isn't bruised to bad..that must have hurt…enjoy your new lathe…grizz


----------



## TedW

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Now you got me wanting a lathe 

But since I know that's not going to happen any time soon, I'll just enjoy watching your wild and crazy turning adventures. Nice mallet for Griz… can't wait to see what else you turn out.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Jeff, if we don't screw up sometimes, we would never know for sure we were doing it wrong.

Rich, thanks for all the advice. Any and all advice I get on turning is much appreciated. I'm still learning. It seems the more I learn though, the more I have to learn. 
Now, before I get a chance to go google it, what is a Cole jaw?

Grizz, I'm glad you like it. I wish I could have gotten your bowl done. In time, I will get better. I have got to keep my eyes peeled for some softer wood to practice with. I think that hard as nails pecan is going to wind up getting me hurt if I don't heed Bearpie's advice and stop trying to bit off more than I can chew. 
I'm glad you can use the mallet. I figured that, being a fellow woodworker, you could always use another mallet.
I will get those things in the mail to you on the third. That's when I get paid. I was doing good this month actually, well, better than usually anyway. Then I decided to make a trip to Eddies. It was a long drive, but well worth it. I enjoyed the visit and now have a better lathe. The trip took all the money I had left for the month though.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Thanks Ted, you can come get a lathe from here.
It has a bent shaft though. So I don't think you want the headache, and believe me, it is a headache. 
As for the turning adventures, I've got another project I need to get on for the next couple of weeks. Then when I do get back to turning, I hope it is mundane. I need to stop doing things that turn the turning into "adventures". One of these day if I keep going, one of these adventures are going to wind up causing me long term pain.


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Cole jaws are those wide jaws with the rubber feet you screw into them. They're used to finish the bottom of the bowl.

I think I caught your lathe troubles. My new Delta 46-460 has a bad wobble and I'm thinking the spindle shaft may be bent. Gotta deal with warranty service now. Bleh!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Thank you Rich. I didn't know that was what it was called, but I have a set of the "cole" jaws for my four jaw chuck. 
How do these spindle shafts get bent? I can think of various ways, but I would think they'd be made sturdier because of the stresses they must go through.

By the way, I thought about scrapping my old lathe. Instead, I decided to leave it mounted where it is. When I need to turn something that starts out large and unbalanced, I'll stick it on the old lathe to get it roughed out most of the wat before putting it on the Ridgid.
I figure that I'll be ok as long as I'm tunring between centers, because then there'e something supporting it on both ends. Also, I figure that doing the badly unbalanced stuff there first will help extend the life of the Ridgid since it'll take some of the initial work load off of it.

Sound like a plan?
Or a screw up waiting to happen?


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


That should be fine. Another thing you could do with it is use it as a buffing station. A lot of turners use a 3 buffing wheel system with their turnings, like these:

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/3/-/8/37/-/3706/Beall-Three-Buff-System http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LBUFFSYS.html
http://www.amazon.com/Buffing-Polishing-Kit-Buffers-Grinders/dp/B001QXI9VW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3EAY6DRTTTKKB&coliid=I22M4TWYLHLKMF

The wobble would't affect buffing at all.


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


In my case, I think it might be my fault the spindle shaft got bent. My chuck was stuck on there and I couldn't get it off, so I put a tommy bar in there and whacked it with a mallet to get it off. It's possible that bent it. I dunno. If you don't already have a nylon washer or something on your lathe, you'll want to get one so that you don't have the same problem I did.

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/5/-/25/112/-/5507/Turners-Select-No-Lock-Spindle-Washer/washer


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


This Ridgid lathe has something I really like. 
I've never had a chuck get stuck, I'm going to look at getting that washer you're talking about.
My problem has been the spur center getting stuck.
This Ridgid has a nut that screws on before the center. If the center won't come off, unscrew the nut, and it pushes the center out.
I think I may have bent the shaft on the old lathe by trying to drive out the center one time with a center punch through the shaft. I don't see how that bent it, but it's possible.


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Yeah my spur centers get stuck too. Most lathes come with a knockout bar to get them out of there. That nut sounds like a better approach. Ramming a piece of metal into the end of your spur center tends to launch it out into space once it finally comes free. I ordered some silicone o rings that will hopefully help with the chuck issue.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


I'm glad to see you are back in the shavings business. Really sorry about the bowl accident but with all due respect, what you did is like trying to crosscut a log on the bandsaw while hand holding it (been there, done that, broke a blade, and crapped my pants). I thought an "old hand" like you knew better  Keep havin fun and work safe! That scrolled pic you did for Grizz is GREAT by the way.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Whoa there William! There are right ways and wrong ways to cut the hub off the bottom of the bowl. The band saw sounds like the easy right way but man you are very lucky it didn't pull your hand into the blade when it did what it did to the bowl and I think you realize that now and I hope you don't try that again!

Kreegan has it right.

I'll try doing a blog on how to prepare a piece of wood for the lathe and how I go about doing the step by step process from start to finish. Keep in mind there are more than one way to do anything on the lathe and no ONE way is the onliest way to do it! Others might go about doing what I do in a different way. Whatever works. The saying "Different strokes for different folks" applies here. I'll try getting the blog out asap but I have to babysit my grandkids tomorrow so it might be Monday before I can get to it.

I am really glad to hear you got a better lathe and I hope you do well with this one. Start small and gradually go bigger. It is very much like chewing bubble gum, you cannot chew well by starting out with 10 fresh wads but you start with one, add another then another and so on till you have ten wads in your mouth. Get the picture? (Actually having 10 wads in your mouth is gross!) Inbox me anytime and I'll try to answer asap. I was out of the house all day today.

The mallet and picture are both beautiful!


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


William you got that lathe looking good ,i knew it had found a good home, i really enjoyed the visit and got the clock you gave me on the wall it is the center piece of the room,thank you that mallet looks good i knew you would be right on it you saw that lathe and your eyes lit up ,made my heart flee good that it is being used ,and again be careful with it and hope to have another visit one day it was good to talk with someone that has a passion for this craft as some dont get it .


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


*Rich*, let me know how those silicone doo-hickeys work. They don't seem to be very expensive and may be worth me investing in.

*Andy*, the bandsaw idea was a dumb one. The bad thing is, about half a second before the blade caught it, the thought occured to me, "this aint such a good idea". I should have know better. It is better than my original thought though. I was originally eyeing the table saw.

*Bearpie*, thank you for all your help. I figured you'd be here with advice soon if Rich hadn't beat you to it. 
As I told Andy, I realize now that the band saw wasn't my brightest idea of late. I would thoroughly enjoy a blog on woodturning. There are plenty of resources out there. I've watched tons of youtube videos on the subject. I read a book on the subject last night. As a matter of fact, after yestereday's events, I even remember vaguely reading about removing that ring. It is as you said though. There are so many ways out there that people do things, that it's a lot of studying to do in order to digest it all. 
I am back to my other project now. In the meantime, I hope to do some more studying before I get a chance to turn some more. So there will be more in the future, and maybe this time it'll be better and safer. 
I'll look forward to your blog whenever you get a chance.

*Eddie*, I appreciate the lathe very much too. I had a lot of fun on it yesterday. As for cleaing it up, all I done was blew the dust off, replaced the wood on the stand, and changed the tail center out to a bearing type. Other than that, she was ready to go. Next time I come to see you, I plan to bring you something turned from that lathe too.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


I won't try to overwhelm you with a lot of turning advice William, but one thing that might be helpful is learning about wooden chucks, how to make them and how to use them. Chucks can be made for regular turning or reverse turning (to finish the bottoms) Wooden chucks can do anything the expensive steel chucks can do and they cost nothing, but they do take some extra time to make. An added advantage is that they are kinder on your lathe bearings and if make them correctly, less dangerous to use. I would suggest you find a book, search the net, and/or get some good advice from fellow turners on this subject. I know how clever you are in making your own tools and I think wooden chucks would be right up your alley.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Thank you Stefang.
I will check into that. 
You are correct. Anytime I can make something to use instead of buying it, I prefer to do so.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


A guy who can make 2 wooden bandsaws….. a wooden chuck will be childs play to him! Keep having fun William. I wish guys like my Nubby friends lived within driving distance. We could get together and have a large time, swap lies, etc.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


I enjoy meeting fellow Lumberjocks Andy.
I have met several personally, SuperDave, KTMM aka Lucas, Chips, and now Eddie. 
It's always fun meeting these guys what you hang out with online. You may consider them friends, but actually meeting them face to face and shaking their hands just makes it more real.
You're just in Oklahoma aren't you? Come on over to Vicksburg and either do some gambling at one of the casinos, if you go for that sort of thing. I don't go to them, but I could show you around Vicksburg and tell you all about the great history here. We have some very interesting museums.

As for making things, I had read about the wooden jam chucks, but had forgotten about them until Stefang mentioned them. 
I have made a lot of shop items out of wood though.
Hammers.
Clamps.
Band saws.
A scroll saw.
Box joint machine.
Dovetail machine.
Pantograph.
Drill press table.
Various storage racks for screwdrivers, chisels, dril bits, router bits, and anything else I can think to hang out of the way.

Yea, I think I can handle a jam chuck.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Thanks for the invite William. I want you to come to my shop and help me build stuff. I'm not a gambler AT ALL. A really close friend is now destitute due to his gambling addiction and I just can't understand that whole concept. I work too hard for my money to give it all to the Indians.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


I used to enjoy going to one of the local casino boats.
It wasn't for gambling though.
I enjoyed sitting up on one of the second level balconies, where I could look straight down at the blackjack and poker tables. It was interesting watching what some of those guys were betting, and the looks on their faces when they lost. 
I've known too many people here who have lost so much to them places. Then they win a small amount and hoot and hollar about how they won. I try to make them see that what they won is actually only a fraction of what they's spent there over the years. 
You may guess, I voted against them when it came up back in the nineties, and I think the casinos are the single worst thing that has ever happened to Vicksburg, Mississippi. I wish they'd float them all downstream somewhere. Anywhere.
I do like gambling though, my way. Years ago, when I was a drinker and had a lot of drinking buddies, we'd get together on weekends and play penny ante poker. You could lose your shirt all night and be out….....five bucks. It wasn't about the money. We were just having a good time. There'd be five or six guys around the dining room table playing cards. All the wives kept the kitchen noisy where they'd hang out. There'd usually be at least fifteen or twenty kids playing all over the yard until it got late enough for them to start coming in and passing out all over the living room. A good time was had by all.

As for coming to help you build stuff, if only you lived closer. I'll tell ya what. Lasso Oklahoma and drag it on over here closer.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Go for it William. Good things come to those who wait.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Not just jam chucks William. All kinds of chucks. There are a world of variations there. I like to do my gambling in the shop. It has cost me some good projects, but not much money!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


I remembered jam chuck, but I have read about several different varieties. That's another one of those things I need to do some learning on.
One that is starting to get my interest is a vacuum chuck. I am reading how versatile they are. That is something that will be in the future though. I don't think I'm quite ready to go that far into the deep end just yet.

I want to thank everyone for their advice. Night before last, I got two books on wood turning. One is a general wood turning book that I'm reading first. It covers everything breifly. The other book is specifically on turning bowls. I intend to read and do research on both of these books before switching the lathe on again.


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Hey William, check this out. It's part one of a 2 part series about using the Beall spindle tap to make your own chucks. I have this tap and it works pretty well. Think it was under 20 bucks.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Looks like a great idea Rick.
They don't have the size for my lathe though.
Both the lathes sitting in my shop now have 3/4×16 thread patterns.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


The book I'm reading shows making chucks and just mounting them in the jaw chuck.
Does that give satifactory results?


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Congrats on the new lathe. Glad you weren't hurt. Keep on turnin. I think "As the lathe Turns", would be a good soap fer us… lol


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


I'm glad you got some turning books William. Looking at your lathe shavings it seemed to me that either your tools were dull or you were taking too heavy cuts. Most turners sharpen their tools on a bench grinder with no further sharpening. They do it fairly often while turning a project. The exception to the rule is for the skew chisel. This one should be refined on a slip stone after grinding and for touch ups as you turn. It will leave your workpiece slick as a whistle.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Roger, I'll try to continue it as a series when I can get back to the lathe.

Stefang. Thank you for telling me that. Noone else caught it. If you hadn't said anything, I thought I was doing good. I was sharpening the tools often on the grinder. Maybe not often enough. Sharpening, and keeping them sharp, is another skill I'm working on. Actually, my problem is knowing exactly when to sharpen. So far, I just do it when it starts feeling like it's dragging or catching. I'd like to learn to do it before then though. I guess its one of those thing you just have to develop a feel for?


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


When you sharpen, you shouldn't have to grind much off. Just roll your gouges on the tool rest set at about 30' angle. Just two or three rolls with very light pressure should do it.

You have to keep tool height on the stone in the same position while grinding to get a consistent bevel. A good way to do this is to lock the shaft in one hand at the bottom end of the tool rest while you turn the handle with the other hand to roll it against the stone. This will insure that the tool doesn't move up and down while you grind.

It's time to resharpen when you are losing control on your cuts and when the edge does bite into the cut easily. The shavings should look more like what you would expect from a well sharpened handplane when the wood is dry. When the wood is wet, you should get continuous thin ribbons that can be several feet long.

You should always rub the bevel on the workpiece before and while you are cutting. It's like the clutch on your car it helps you ease into the cut, hold it steady while cutting and also disengaging from the cut. Before cutting I always lay the bevel onto the workpiece with the cutting edge well above the wood, then I lift the tool handle slowly just until the edge engages the wood.

Keeping the bevel rubbing at all times is the main pillar of woodturning and the only thing that keeps you in full control of the cut.

You might find it fun to turn a few wet pieces just for practice. I suggest you do some spindle turning on them to get a feel for it. This will allow you smoother cuts as it is much easier to turn green wood. It does sometimes splash sap around and sometimes in your face too! Green wood is also a lot kinder to your tool edges.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Stefang, I need to try that method, rubbing the bevel and then slowly lowering the cutting edge into the wood. Something I have been guilty of is putting tools to wood at the wrong angle and it scares the hell out of me every time. If I got in the habit of your method, it may help me develop better control all around. 
This is the first time I've heard of keeping the bevel running at all times though. I want to make sure I understand correctly. We're calling "bevel" the grinded material behind the cutting edge, the angle before getting to ungrinded material on the tool? I ask this, because, if you are supposed to keep that against the wood at all time, I've been cutting much too low, too near the tool rest. My bevel has seldom been on the wood. 
Please let me know if I'm understanding this correctly. If so, I need to change my whole technique. This could really be a game changer to get better control of the tools. That is the one thing that has worried me. I seem to have little control sometimes besides just pure man handling it. In other words, the muscle in my arms have been my control points. That can get tiring though, and when it gets tiring, it's easy to mess up.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Hi William. Your cutting edge's position on the workpiece (WP) depends on which tool you're using. I like to use my gouges at centerline or slightly below on the WP and quite a bit above the centerline with the skew chisel. The skew is about the only one you use above centerline. Remember that your toolrest height should be determined by where you want your edge to land, not the other way around.

You would typically hold your tool handles at about 45deg. lower than your edge. Rub the bevel first and then raise the handle until the edge is cutting (more lift, heavier cut). You should keep the handle locked to your body in the horizontal plane and only move the handle up and down. Move your body to follow your cut, not your arm. Also keep your legs positioned so you can move easily in the direction of the cut without unlocking your tool. You can still move the handle up and down, just not away from your body. This might take some time to get used to, but it is the 2nd pillar of woodturning.

After a short time you will have learned some techniques from books, the net, etc, be turning like it is second nature and wondering what all the fuss was about.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Thanks Stefang.
You should write a book.
I went back and looked at a couple of things I'd read on one of my books last night. It says pretty much the same thing as you're telling me. They just didn't explain it as well as you. The book says to use a bevel roll into your cut, without explaining exactly what that means. You explaining that makes it much more clear. 
Also, nowhere had I read about moving your body and not your arms. I'd seen that on video, but without an explanation, I hadn't thought much about it. I guess it has to do with leverage, such as your stance in baseball, for example. 
I am elbow deep in a different sort of project at the moment. I am enjoying digesting all this information though and will try to put it all to use when I can get back the the lathe.

If you have not wrote a book, is there a specific book you'd recommend me to read on the subject of woodturning?


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


There are many turning books available that are good. I think these two would serve you as well as any other. They have good reviews and they are reasonably priced on Amazon.com. Right now you need the basics and these are perfect for that purpose. My first turning book was by Keith Rowley and that is where I learned the most about turning. I am also sure you will enjoy the Ernie Conover book too, which will open the world of turning tools to you and also teach you how to make your own wooden chucks and other tools.

Woodturning: A Foundation Course (New Edition) by Keith Rowley (Dec 31, 1999)
http://www.amazon.com/Woodturning-Foundation-Course-Keith-Rowley/dp/1861081146/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1359546801&sr=1-1&keywords=woodturning%2FKeith+Rowley

The Frugal Woodturner: Make and Modify All the Tools and Equipment You Need by Ernie Conover (Aug 1, 2010)
http://www.amazon.com/Frugal-Woodturner-Modify-Tools-Equipment/dp/1565234340/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1359546879&sr=1-2&keywords=woodturning%2FErnie+Conover

The bevel is the ground area above the edge.

I hope this is helpful. Have fun, and don't hesitate to ask if you have more questions.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *As The Lathe Turns........Again*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bugged the boys to get their butts over here early. We replaced the MDF top on the stand and mounted the new (to me) lathe. In case any of you don't know, fellow Lumberjock, Eddie, gave me the lathe after mine bit the dust. Thank you so much Eddie. You have no idea how much this means to me.
> So I checked everything out on the lathe. Everything seems to be in good working order. My only complaint with it was the tailstock center. It has the type that does not turn. I do not like that type because of a past experience. That was no problem though. I just took the bearing type out of the old lathe and put in this one and I was back in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wasted no time getting down to business. This is my third lathe. My first one came from Harbor Freight. It lasted for all of a total of about two hours of practice before it just fell apart. My second lathe I bought used from a fellow Lumberjock. It was a decent lathe, but I think my iniexperience and gung ho attitude quickly ruined the cheaply made lathe before I got too far on it. That lathe always had a vibration to it that I never could figure out though.
> Now I come to this lathe. It's like a whole new world has opened up to me. This lathe is almost identical in design to the last one, but just the look and feel of the parts and you can tell there is more quality in it. Another thing I like about this lathe is, being a Ridgid, I am sure I can find parts for it should anything happen to it. So far though, everything seems to be working flawlessly on this lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone's who's advice has helped me greatly in this turning adventure is Bearpie. Upon that advice I also have recently took another look at my method of sharpening lathe tools. Between the better sharpening, and the lathe that actually runs true, I now am getting shavings instead of chips once my wood is rounded out. I have NEVER gotten this from any lathe. It was such a great feeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the stubborn mule I am, the first thing I done was went back to that pecan bowl I was trying to turn for Grizz. I actually done a good job on it too. My only problem was getting rid of those lines that Bearpie told me about. That was when I considered another piece of wisdom Bearpie mentioned. Maybe I am getting a tad bit ambitious with my early bowll turnings. I'm doing a good job in my opinion. However, pecan is some very hard wood. I already knew that, but it was the only thing I could find that was large enough to start with for me to turn a bowl out of. Yes, I know I could glue up material for it, but let me get used to actually turning bowls first before I dive off into segmented stuff.
> I got the bowl done though, and it went well. I ran into no more problems. I think that is because of the lathe the Eddie gave me (which is of better quality than I've been trying to use) and the advice of Bearpie (which I've never had anyone help me with besides just generalized hints). So thank you guys very much.
> I had to get the thank you's out of the way before I tell ya'll how I screwed up the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I started this bowl, I left a round piece sticking out of the bottom as a means to hold it in my four jaw chuck. After turning the bowl down till I was happy with it, I needed to remove this circle. I considered different ways of doing this and thought I could do it on my band saw. Things were going good with that until I was almost through it. Then, I'm not sure, but I think the waste side of the wood closed up on the blade and wreaked havoc. The blade snatched the whole bowl out of my hands, up into the upper blade guide, bent the blade, then shot it back towards me forcefully, and bending the blade in the process. So I wound up ruining a thirty dollar band saw blade, ruining the bowl, and leaving myself with a sore spot on my stomach. It must have really done a number because it chewed the bowl up pretty good. So, something tells me that this is not the proper way to remove that ring of wood that I'm talking about.
> Bearpie, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. So I am hoping you'll chime in and help me again. I need to know the proper method of removing that ring of wood without damaging equipment or causing bodily harm to myself.
> 
> .
> 
> So here's where I'm at now.
> I have really enjoyed this little adventure in wood turning. It is something you all will be seeing me do more of. I plan to learn a lot more and turn a lot more. However, this all started with me wanting to take one day and turn a bowl. It has lasted for the better part of a week instead though. I am desperately wanting to get to a project I was planning starting on days ago. So I have to bring this lathe adventure to a close for the time being. I couldn't just yet though.
> You see, one thing that kept me on this road this week was the fact that I told another friend, Grizz, that I would do something for him. When I say I'm going to do something, by God, I do it.
> Going back and taking Bearpie's advice (been all good advice so far) I decided that I do need to not be so darn stubborn about taking on too much in an area of woodworking that I'm just learning in. Part of that I believe is, I need to find some softer wood than pecan to turn bowl with for now. That leaves me a problem with getting Grizz's gift. So I thought about this.
> 
> A hammer. What woodworker does not need a wooden hammer? I have made several wooden hammers for myself. I'm sure some people use them for other things, but I use my wooden hammers, the style I've made, for hammering on my chisels. So, since I had one more log of pecan, and I knew I could make a hammer, that is what In decided to make him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So *Grizz*, I apologize, but I so broke I can't pay attention. I spent what little money I had left going to Eddie's yesterday to get a lathe. It will be early February before I can ship you your package. Since I have to wait though, I won't keep you wondering. Here's a photo of what I'm sending.


Thank you.
I will check into hetting those books as soon as possible.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*The Lathe Saga Continues*









I have been working on a project. In the meantime though, my newly found wood turning fascination is still in full swing. What you see here is the corner of my shop over behind the table saws where the lathe always sat. I use the word sat, as in past tense, because you may notice there are three lathes now. 
The one closest to the camera is the old one that I recently discovered had a bent shaft. I thought of carrying it out back and putting it out of it's misery, but I think it can still be of use. 
I am going to use it if I need to rough out something that is extremely out of balance. This will safe from having to worry about tearing up either of the other ones. 
Also I'm thinking, at the advice of an experienced wood turner I've been talking to, of setting up a polishing center for my turning projects that mounts between the centers on this lathe. The out of true condition the shaft presents will not effect a polishing set up.








Next, closest to the window, is the Ridgid lathe. It is actually very similar to the first lathe. Most of these pipe bed lathes made these days, besides some cosmetic and quality differences, are direct copies of an old Craftsman lathe I've seen from the eighties. 
The Ridgid lathe was given to me by a good friend. I talked about it in my last post. It is a good lathe. The shaft is made of thicker material, which makes me a little more confident. The accessory controls, such as handles for tightening up the tool rest for example, are better made. I believe it is going to be a decent lathe.








The newest addition to the line up is the purpose of this post though. My lovely wife wanted to get me something nice for the upcoming Valentine's day, and this is what she got me. I have been wanting this lathe for some time and just have never been able to afford it. She has been putting in overtime at work and, while I don't think she will tell me that it was still hard on her to afford it, she used some of that extra cash to buy me the lathe I've been wanting.
This lathe is from Harbor Freight. I can almost hear the groans from my computer screen when I typed that. I know Harbor Freight sells some pretty cheaply made stuff. If you do your research though, you can find some diamonds in the rough at that place. I believe this to be just one of those precious gems. 
For starters, I have read in numerous places that the lathe I have now is the exact same lathe as this one in the Jet lineup. The major differences between the two are the paint color, the supplied legs that are shipped with each of them, and the price. The color means nothing. I know for a fact that many items are made in the same factories, in the same assembly lines, and shot with different colors for different stores. I think most of us are aware of that. As for the legs, I don't know. From what I can see in the website photos, they look the same to me. It doesn't matter too much in my opinion though. For what I want, a machine that weighs as much as this one doesn't need heavier legs, and if it does eventually, I'll build a heavy stand for it.
So let us start with the weight of the machine. This thing, as listed on the box when I got it back to my shop, weighs in at 187.85 pounds. I couldn't even get it out of the box, much less set it up. While my wife and I usually handle most things ourselves, I had to call for backup just to get this thing on it's stand. 
My only other complaint on this machine is the plastic used in some of the handles, such as the tool rest. That is usually expected in everything we buy these days though, and I am always good at working around these things by remaking them out of better material should anything ever go wrong with them. A fact of life these days is that products have too much plastic in them. 
I also want to address other things about this lathe though. Through research of it, I came across items of concern to me, and I just generally want to show off my new toy.
$$$
Let's start with price. If you buy the Jet version of this lathe, you will pay considerably more than Harbor Freight. That is to be expected. When I went and looked at the difference though, I was shocked. 
This lathe, on sale for $269.99 at Harbor Freight, was already in a reasonably price range for what it is. Then there are taxes added. However, we had a 25% off coupon. That brought the price down even considerably more. Then we added back a two year extended warranty to it. I have used Harbor Freight's warranties before and know for a fact that, if you pay for the warranty, they will take it back with no questions asked and give you a new one in the box. That brought the price back to about where it was. So for around $270, taxes included, we got the lathe and a two year extended warranty. I think that is a good deal.
Now, the Jet lathe. I went to the Rockler site to price it. It is available online only in my area. I did not check twenty sites for the cheapest one. I just wanted to give a general idea. Here, on the Rockler site, before any possible taxes or shipping, the lathe sells for $919.








Next up is the tool rest. I did not even notice this feature when looking at this lathe, but it is nice. Both my other lathes have a bar that slides along the bed, then the extension bar swivels and the tool rest swivels. That works, but it limited. This one has more movement to it. I am sure this may be standard for flat bed lathes and no big deal to most experienced turners. This is my first flat bed lathe though, and for me, it is a whole world better than what I am used to.








Some of you who have never turned probably have no idea why a tool rest would be so important to me to even mention it. Well, besides just being more versatile, in addition to the swiveling head on this lathe, you can see just above the orientation I can put a bowl while working on the inside of it. This is a huge advantage to me. In the past, on the pipe bed lathes I've used, I eight had to walk around the back of the lathe. This put me on the opposite side of the lathe from the controls. That is something that has always made me uncomfortable. The other option was to lean over the bed, and work back towards me, into the downward turning bowl. This was not just uncomfortable to me, but downright painful if I done it for more than a couple of minutes at a time. This lathe's features will eliminate these issues all together. Once roughed out, I can just turn the whole headstock around towards me, adjust the tools rest accordingly, and be able to work much more comfortable than I have ever been able to while turning bowls.








The single most complaint I have read in reviews of this lathe stemmed from this, the Reeve's variable speed system. I have read so many times, if you do not keep this oiled, it will fail, and the pulleys will literally fall apart in your hand. So I was a little apprehensive, when I pulled the cover off to oil it for the first time and to snap this photo, what horror I would find. 
Let me start by saying I would love to have electronic variable speed. There may come a point in time that electronic variable speed is obtainable to the common man. Most people cannot afford that luxury though. So, just having the ten speeds that this Reeve's system affords me is a blessing. On this machine, I will not have to remove a cover and change belts on a set of pulleys every time I change speeds. 
I have seen this system, and worked on this system, in many uses. It is very similar to the system on my old Total Shop. That motor now powered my shop made band saw and works flawlessly. The Total Shop was one of the cheaper made Shop Smith clones, and yes, it too was problematic if not oiled and maintained properly. Amazingly, I've also seen this system on variable speed PTO drives on tractors made decades ago.
Yes, the pulleys do seem to be made out of less than premium material. However, the look to be of the same material I see on 99% of stock pulleys on any brand these days. It's pot metal. No it is not the strongest material known to man, but it has always, from my experience, worked well for pulleys as long as it's taken care of. 
The bottom line on this matter, to me, is this. This system involves moving parts that slide back and forth on a fixed shaft. Anything with moving parts, that move against unmoving parts, requires maintenance. If not, it will fail. That is a plain and simple truth no matter how you look at it. So, unless some other problem crops up in the future, this whole issue is a non-issue to me. For the torque the Reeve's system provide, in addition to the larger three quarter horse motor I have on this lathe compared to my others, I like this system.

So that's my new toy. 
You will see many more turning projects in my future, and I'll keep you all posted if any problems arise with the new lathe. I look for it to work very nicely for me.


----------



## thor73

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe Saga Continues*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been working on a project. In the meantime though, my newly found wood turning fascination is still in full swing. What you see here is the corner of my shop over behind the table saws where the lathe always sat. I use the word sat, as in past tense, because you may notice there are three lathes now.
> The one closest to the camera is the old one that I recently discovered had a bent shaft. I thought of carrying it out back and putting it out of it's misery, but I think it can still be of use.
> I am going to use it if I need to rough out something that is extremely out of balance. This will safe from having to worry about tearing up either of the other ones.
> Also I'm thinking, at the advice of an experienced wood turner I've been talking to, of setting up a polishing center for my turning projects that mounts between the centers on this lathe. The out of true condition the shaft presents will not effect a polishing set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, closest to the window, is the Ridgid lathe. It is actually very similar to the first lathe. Most of these pipe bed lathes made these days, besides some cosmetic and quality differences, are direct copies of an old Craftsman lathe I've seen from the eighties.
> The Ridgid lathe was given to me by a good friend. I talked about it in my last post. It is a good lathe. The shaft is made of thicker material, which makes me a little more confident. The accessory controls, such as handles for tightening up the tool rest for example, are better made. I believe it is going to be a decent lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The newest addition to the line up is the purpose of this post though. My lovely wife wanted to get me something nice for the upcoming Valentine's day, and this is what she got me. I have been wanting this lathe for some time and just have never been able to afford it. She has been putting in overtime at work and, while I don't think she will tell me that it was still hard on her to afford it, she used some of that extra cash to buy me the lathe I've been wanting.
> This lathe is from Harbor Freight. I can almost hear the groans from my computer screen when I typed that. I know Harbor Freight sells some pretty cheaply made stuff. If you do your research though, you can find some diamonds in the rough at that place. I believe this to be just one of those precious gems.
> For starters, I have read in numerous places that the lathe I have now is the exact same lathe as this one in the Jet lineup. The major differences between the two are the paint color, the supplied legs that are shipped with each of them, and the price. The color means nothing. I know for a fact that many items are made in the same factories, in the same assembly lines, and shot with different colors for different stores. I think most of us are aware of that. As for the legs, I don't know. From what I can see in the website photos, they look the same to me. It doesn't matter too much in my opinion though. For what I want, a machine that weighs as much as this one doesn't need heavier legs, and if it does eventually, I'll build a heavy stand for it.
> So let us start with the weight of the machine. This thing, as listed on the box when I got it back to my shop, weighs in at 187.85 pounds. I couldn't even get it out of the box, much less set it up. While my wife and I usually handle most things ourselves, I had to call for backup just to get this thing on it's stand.
> My only other complaint on this machine is the plastic used in some of the handles, such as the tool rest. That is usually expected in everything we buy these days though, and I am always good at working around these things by remaking them out of better material should anything ever go wrong with them. A fact of life these days is that products have too much plastic in them.
> I also want to address other things about this lathe though. Through research of it, I came across items of concern to me, and I just generally want to show off my new toy.
> $$$
> Let's start with price. If you buy the Jet version of this lathe, you will pay considerably more than Harbor Freight. That is to be expected. When I went and looked at the difference though, I was shocked.
> This lathe, on sale for $269.99 at Harbor Freight, was already in a reasonably price range for what it is. Then there are taxes added. However, we had a 25% off coupon. That brought the price down even considerably more. Then we added back a two year extended warranty to it. I have used Harbor Freight's warranties before and know for a fact that, if you pay for the warranty, they will take it back with no questions asked and give you a new one in the box. That brought the price back to about where it was. So for around $270, taxes included, we got the lathe and a two year extended warranty. I think that is a good deal.
> Now, the Jet lathe. I went to the Rockler site to price it. It is available online only in my area. I did not check twenty sites for the cheapest one. I just wanted to give a general idea. Here, on the Rockler site, before any possible taxes or shipping, the lathe sells for $919.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the tool rest. I did not even notice this feature when looking at this lathe, but it is nice. Both my other lathes have a bar that slides along the bed, then the extension bar swivels and the tool rest swivels. That works, but it limited. This one has more movement to it. I am sure this may be standard for flat bed lathes and no big deal to most experienced turners. This is my first flat bed lathe though, and for me, it is a whole world better than what I am used to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you who have never turned probably have no idea why a tool rest would be so important to me to even mention it. Well, besides just being more versatile, in addition to the swiveling head on this lathe, you can see just above the orientation I can put a bowl while working on the inside of it. This is a huge advantage to me. In the past, on the pipe bed lathes I've used, I eight had to walk around the back of the lathe. This put me on the opposite side of the lathe from the controls. That is something that has always made me uncomfortable. The other option was to lean over the bed, and work back towards me, into the downward turning bowl. This was not just uncomfortable to me, but downright painful if I done it for more than a couple of minutes at a time. This lathe's features will eliminate these issues all together. Once roughed out, I can just turn the whole headstock around towards me, adjust the tools rest accordingly, and be able to work much more comfortable than I have ever been able to while turning bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The single most complaint I have read in reviews of this lathe stemmed from this, the Reeve's variable speed system. I have read so many times, if you do not keep this oiled, it will fail, and the pulleys will literally fall apart in your hand. So I was a little apprehensive, when I pulled the cover off to oil it for the first time and to snap this photo, what horror I would find.
> Let me start by saying I would love to have electronic variable speed. There may come a point in time that electronic variable speed is obtainable to the common man. Most people cannot afford that luxury though. So, just having the ten speeds that this Reeve's system affords me is a blessing. On this machine, I will not have to remove a cover and change belts on a set of pulleys every time I change speeds.
> I have seen this system, and worked on this system, in many uses. It is very similar to the system on my old Total Shop. That motor now powered my shop made band saw and works flawlessly. The Total Shop was one of the cheaper made Shop Smith clones, and yes, it too was problematic if not oiled and maintained properly. Amazingly, I've also seen this system on variable speed PTO drives on tractors made decades ago.
> Yes, the pulleys do seem to be made out of less than premium material. However, the look to be of the same material I see on 99% of stock pulleys on any brand these days. It's pot metal. No it is not the strongest material known to man, but it has always, from my experience, worked well for pulleys as long as it's taken care of.
> The bottom line on this matter, to me, is this. This system involves moving parts that slide back and forth on a fixed shaft. Anything with moving parts, that move against unmoving parts, requires maintenance. If not, it will fail. That is a plain and simple truth no matter how you look at it. So, unless some other problem crops up in the future, this whole issue is a non-issue to me. For the torque the Reeve's system provide, in addition to the larger three quarter horse motor I have on this lathe compared to my others, I like this system.
> 
> So that's my new toy.
> You will see many more turning projects in my future, and I'll keep you all posted if any problems arise with the new lathe. I look for it to work very nicely for me.












Nice setup. I just got a HF 10×18 mini lathe started on new handles.


----------



## NateMeadows

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe Saga Continues*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been working on a project. In the meantime though, my newly found wood turning fascination is still in full swing. What you see here is the corner of my shop over behind the table saws where the lathe always sat. I use the word sat, as in past tense, because you may notice there are three lathes now.
> The one closest to the camera is the old one that I recently discovered had a bent shaft. I thought of carrying it out back and putting it out of it's misery, but I think it can still be of use.
> I am going to use it if I need to rough out something that is extremely out of balance. This will safe from having to worry about tearing up either of the other ones.
> Also I'm thinking, at the advice of an experienced wood turner I've been talking to, of setting up a polishing center for my turning projects that mounts between the centers on this lathe. The out of true condition the shaft presents will not effect a polishing set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, closest to the window, is the Ridgid lathe. It is actually very similar to the first lathe. Most of these pipe bed lathes made these days, besides some cosmetic and quality differences, are direct copies of an old Craftsman lathe I've seen from the eighties.
> The Ridgid lathe was given to me by a good friend. I talked about it in my last post. It is a good lathe. The shaft is made of thicker material, which makes me a little more confident. The accessory controls, such as handles for tightening up the tool rest for example, are better made. I believe it is going to be a decent lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The newest addition to the line up is the purpose of this post though. My lovely wife wanted to get me something nice for the upcoming Valentine's day, and this is what she got me. I have been wanting this lathe for some time and just have never been able to afford it. She has been putting in overtime at work and, while I don't think she will tell me that it was still hard on her to afford it, she used some of that extra cash to buy me the lathe I've been wanting.
> This lathe is from Harbor Freight. I can almost hear the groans from my computer screen when I typed that. I know Harbor Freight sells some pretty cheaply made stuff. If you do your research though, you can find some diamonds in the rough at that place. I believe this to be just one of those precious gems.
> For starters, I have read in numerous places that the lathe I have now is the exact same lathe as this one in the Jet lineup. The major differences between the two are the paint color, the supplied legs that are shipped with each of them, and the price. The color means nothing. I know for a fact that many items are made in the same factories, in the same assembly lines, and shot with different colors for different stores. I think most of us are aware of that. As for the legs, I don't know. From what I can see in the website photos, they look the same to me. It doesn't matter too much in my opinion though. For what I want, a machine that weighs as much as this one doesn't need heavier legs, and if it does eventually, I'll build a heavy stand for it.
> So let us start with the weight of the machine. This thing, as listed on the box when I got it back to my shop, weighs in at 187.85 pounds. I couldn't even get it out of the box, much less set it up. While my wife and I usually handle most things ourselves, I had to call for backup just to get this thing on it's stand.
> My only other complaint on this machine is the plastic used in some of the handles, such as the tool rest. That is usually expected in everything we buy these days though, and I am always good at working around these things by remaking them out of better material should anything ever go wrong with them. A fact of life these days is that products have too much plastic in them.
> I also want to address other things about this lathe though. Through research of it, I came across items of concern to me, and I just generally want to show off my new toy.
> $$$
> Let's start with price. If you buy the Jet version of this lathe, you will pay considerably more than Harbor Freight. That is to be expected. When I went and looked at the difference though, I was shocked.
> This lathe, on sale for $269.99 at Harbor Freight, was already in a reasonably price range for what it is. Then there are taxes added. However, we had a 25% off coupon. That brought the price down even considerably more. Then we added back a two year extended warranty to it. I have used Harbor Freight's warranties before and know for a fact that, if you pay for the warranty, they will take it back with no questions asked and give you a new one in the box. That brought the price back to about where it was. So for around $270, taxes included, we got the lathe and a two year extended warranty. I think that is a good deal.
> Now, the Jet lathe. I went to the Rockler site to price it. It is available online only in my area. I did not check twenty sites for the cheapest one. I just wanted to give a general idea. Here, on the Rockler site, before any possible taxes or shipping, the lathe sells for $919.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the tool rest. I did not even notice this feature when looking at this lathe, but it is nice. Both my other lathes have a bar that slides along the bed, then the extension bar swivels and the tool rest swivels. That works, but it limited. This one has more movement to it. I am sure this may be standard for flat bed lathes and no big deal to most experienced turners. This is my first flat bed lathe though, and for me, it is a whole world better than what I am used to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you who have never turned probably have no idea why a tool rest would be so important to me to even mention it. Well, besides just being more versatile, in addition to the swiveling head on this lathe, you can see just above the orientation I can put a bowl while working on the inside of it. This is a huge advantage to me. In the past, on the pipe bed lathes I've used, I eight had to walk around the back of the lathe. This put me on the opposite side of the lathe from the controls. That is something that has always made me uncomfortable. The other option was to lean over the bed, and work back towards me, into the downward turning bowl. This was not just uncomfortable to me, but downright painful if I done it for more than a couple of minutes at a time. This lathe's features will eliminate these issues all together. Once roughed out, I can just turn the whole headstock around towards me, adjust the tools rest accordingly, and be able to work much more comfortable than I have ever been able to while turning bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The single most complaint I have read in reviews of this lathe stemmed from this, the Reeve's variable speed system. I have read so many times, if you do not keep this oiled, it will fail, and the pulleys will literally fall apart in your hand. So I was a little apprehensive, when I pulled the cover off to oil it for the first time and to snap this photo, what horror I would find.
> Let me start by saying I would love to have electronic variable speed. There may come a point in time that electronic variable speed is obtainable to the common man. Most people cannot afford that luxury though. So, just having the ten speeds that this Reeve's system affords me is a blessing. On this machine, I will not have to remove a cover and change belts on a set of pulleys every time I change speeds.
> I have seen this system, and worked on this system, in many uses. It is very similar to the system on my old Total Shop. That motor now powered my shop made band saw and works flawlessly. The Total Shop was one of the cheaper made Shop Smith clones, and yes, it too was problematic if not oiled and maintained properly. Amazingly, I've also seen this system on variable speed PTO drives on tractors made decades ago.
> Yes, the pulleys do seem to be made out of less than premium material. However, the look to be of the same material I see on 99% of stock pulleys on any brand these days. It's pot metal. No it is not the strongest material known to man, but it has always, from my experience, worked well for pulleys as long as it's taken care of.
> The bottom line on this matter, to me, is this. This system involves moving parts that slide back and forth on a fixed shaft. Anything with moving parts, that move against unmoving parts, requires maintenance. If not, it will fail. That is a plain and simple truth no matter how you look at it. So, unless some other problem crops up in the future, this whole issue is a non-issue to me. For the torque the Reeve's system provide, in addition to the larger three quarter horse motor I have on this lathe compared to my others, I like this system.
> 
> So that's my new toy.
> You will see many more turning projects in my future, and I'll keep you all posted if any problems arise with the new lathe. I look for it to work very nicely for me.


That is awesome William! Now you are good to go!

Nate


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe Saga Continues*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been working on a project. In the meantime though, my newly found wood turning fascination is still in full swing. What you see here is the corner of my shop over behind the table saws where the lathe always sat. I use the word sat, as in past tense, because you may notice there are three lathes now.
> The one closest to the camera is the old one that I recently discovered had a bent shaft. I thought of carrying it out back and putting it out of it's misery, but I think it can still be of use.
> I am going to use it if I need to rough out something that is extremely out of balance. This will safe from having to worry about tearing up either of the other ones.
> Also I'm thinking, at the advice of an experienced wood turner I've been talking to, of setting up a polishing center for my turning projects that mounts between the centers on this lathe. The out of true condition the shaft presents will not effect a polishing set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, closest to the window, is the Ridgid lathe. It is actually very similar to the first lathe. Most of these pipe bed lathes made these days, besides some cosmetic and quality differences, are direct copies of an old Craftsman lathe I've seen from the eighties.
> The Ridgid lathe was given to me by a good friend. I talked about it in my last post. It is a good lathe. The shaft is made of thicker material, which makes me a little more confident. The accessory controls, such as handles for tightening up the tool rest for example, are better made. I believe it is going to be a decent lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The newest addition to the line up is the purpose of this post though. My lovely wife wanted to get me something nice for the upcoming Valentine's day, and this is what she got me. I have been wanting this lathe for some time and just have never been able to afford it. She has been putting in overtime at work and, while I don't think she will tell me that it was still hard on her to afford it, she used some of that extra cash to buy me the lathe I've been wanting.
> This lathe is from Harbor Freight. I can almost hear the groans from my computer screen when I typed that. I know Harbor Freight sells some pretty cheaply made stuff. If you do your research though, you can find some diamonds in the rough at that place. I believe this to be just one of those precious gems.
> For starters, I have read in numerous places that the lathe I have now is the exact same lathe as this one in the Jet lineup. The major differences between the two are the paint color, the supplied legs that are shipped with each of them, and the price. The color means nothing. I know for a fact that many items are made in the same factories, in the same assembly lines, and shot with different colors for different stores. I think most of us are aware of that. As for the legs, I don't know. From what I can see in the website photos, they look the same to me. It doesn't matter too much in my opinion though. For what I want, a machine that weighs as much as this one doesn't need heavier legs, and if it does eventually, I'll build a heavy stand for it.
> So let us start with the weight of the machine. This thing, as listed on the box when I got it back to my shop, weighs in at 187.85 pounds. I couldn't even get it out of the box, much less set it up. While my wife and I usually handle most things ourselves, I had to call for backup just to get this thing on it's stand.
> My only other complaint on this machine is the plastic used in some of the handles, such as the tool rest. That is usually expected in everything we buy these days though, and I am always good at working around these things by remaking them out of better material should anything ever go wrong with them. A fact of life these days is that products have too much plastic in them.
> I also want to address other things about this lathe though. Through research of it, I came across items of concern to me, and I just generally want to show off my new toy.
> $$$
> Let's start with price. If you buy the Jet version of this lathe, you will pay considerably more than Harbor Freight. That is to be expected. When I went and looked at the difference though, I was shocked.
> This lathe, on sale for $269.99 at Harbor Freight, was already in a reasonably price range for what it is. Then there are taxes added. However, we had a 25% off coupon. That brought the price down even considerably more. Then we added back a two year extended warranty to it. I have used Harbor Freight's warranties before and know for a fact that, if you pay for the warranty, they will take it back with no questions asked and give you a new one in the box. That brought the price back to about where it was. So for around $270, taxes included, we got the lathe and a two year extended warranty. I think that is a good deal.
> Now, the Jet lathe. I went to the Rockler site to price it. It is available online only in my area. I did not check twenty sites for the cheapest one. I just wanted to give a general idea. Here, on the Rockler site, before any possible taxes or shipping, the lathe sells for $919.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the tool rest. I did not even notice this feature when looking at this lathe, but it is nice. Both my other lathes have a bar that slides along the bed, then the extension bar swivels and the tool rest swivels. That works, but it limited. This one has more movement to it. I am sure this may be standard for flat bed lathes and no big deal to most experienced turners. This is my first flat bed lathe though, and for me, it is a whole world better than what I am used to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you who have never turned probably have no idea why a tool rest would be so important to me to even mention it. Well, besides just being more versatile, in addition to the swiveling head on this lathe, you can see just above the orientation I can put a bowl while working on the inside of it. This is a huge advantage to me. In the past, on the pipe bed lathes I've used, I eight had to walk around the back of the lathe. This put me on the opposite side of the lathe from the controls. That is something that has always made me uncomfortable. The other option was to lean over the bed, and work back towards me, into the downward turning bowl. This was not just uncomfortable to me, but downright painful if I done it for more than a couple of minutes at a time. This lathe's features will eliminate these issues all together. Once roughed out, I can just turn the whole headstock around towards me, adjust the tools rest accordingly, and be able to work much more comfortable than I have ever been able to while turning bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The single most complaint I have read in reviews of this lathe stemmed from this, the Reeve's variable speed system. I have read so many times, if you do not keep this oiled, it will fail, and the pulleys will literally fall apart in your hand. So I was a little apprehensive, when I pulled the cover off to oil it for the first time and to snap this photo, what horror I would find.
> Let me start by saying I would love to have electronic variable speed. There may come a point in time that electronic variable speed is obtainable to the common man. Most people cannot afford that luxury though. So, just having the ten speeds that this Reeve's system affords me is a blessing. On this machine, I will not have to remove a cover and change belts on a set of pulleys every time I change speeds.
> I have seen this system, and worked on this system, in many uses. It is very similar to the system on my old Total Shop. That motor now powered my shop made band saw and works flawlessly. The Total Shop was one of the cheaper made Shop Smith clones, and yes, it too was problematic if not oiled and maintained properly. Amazingly, I've also seen this system on variable speed PTO drives on tractors made decades ago.
> Yes, the pulleys do seem to be made out of less than premium material. However, the look to be of the same material I see on 99% of stock pulleys on any brand these days. It's pot metal. No it is not the strongest material known to man, but it has always, from my experience, worked well for pulleys as long as it's taken care of.
> The bottom line on this matter, to me, is this. This system involves moving parts that slide back and forth on a fixed shaft. Anything with moving parts, that move against unmoving parts, requires maintenance. If not, it will fail. That is a plain and simple truth no matter how you look at it. So, unless some other problem crops up in the future, this whole issue is a non-issue to me. For the torque the Reeve's system provide, in addition to the larger three quarter horse motor I have on this lathe compared to my others, I like this system.
> 
> So that's my new toy.
> You will see many more turning projects in my future, and I'll keep you all posted if any problems arise with the new lathe. I look for it to work very nicely for me.


Yep Nate. I will definately be doing some turning in the future.
I am currently tied up on my latest marble machine, but am excited to get back to the lathe as soon as my back eases up. I've been going through another bad spell lately.

Thor, I had a similar idea, and that will work on the handles for the tailstock. However, on the tool rest design, it is better the way they are currently set up. They are spring loaded so you can move the handles, after they are tightened, to get them out of the way when you need to. It will not be hard at all though to come up with a wooden variant of them. I've made wooden knobs before. All it takes is a little thought and work. If they ever give issue, I will be making something. If I do, I'll post it.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe Saga Continues*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been working on a project. In the meantime though, my newly found wood turning fascination is still in full swing. What you see here is the corner of my shop over behind the table saws where the lathe always sat. I use the word sat, as in past tense, because you may notice there are three lathes now.
> The one closest to the camera is the old one that I recently discovered had a bent shaft. I thought of carrying it out back and putting it out of it's misery, but I think it can still be of use.
> I am going to use it if I need to rough out something that is extremely out of balance. This will safe from having to worry about tearing up either of the other ones.
> Also I'm thinking, at the advice of an experienced wood turner I've been talking to, of setting up a polishing center for my turning projects that mounts between the centers on this lathe. The out of true condition the shaft presents will not effect a polishing set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, closest to the window, is the Ridgid lathe. It is actually very similar to the first lathe. Most of these pipe bed lathes made these days, besides some cosmetic and quality differences, are direct copies of an old Craftsman lathe I've seen from the eighties.
> The Ridgid lathe was given to me by a good friend. I talked about it in my last post. It is a good lathe. The shaft is made of thicker material, which makes me a little more confident. The accessory controls, such as handles for tightening up the tool rest for example, are better made. I believe it is going to be a decent lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The newest addition to the line up is the purpose of this post though. My lovely wife wanted to get me something nice for the upcoming Valentine's day, and this is what she got me. I have been wanting this lathe for some time and just have never been able to afford it. She has been putting in overtime at work and, while I don't think she will tell me that it was still hard on her to afford it, she used some of that extra cash to buy me the lathe I've been wanting.
> This lathe is from Harbor Freight. I can almost hear the groans from my computer screen when I typed that. I know Harbor Freight sells some pretty cheaply made stuff. If you do your research though, you can find some diamonds in the rough at that place. I believe this to be just one of those precious gems.
> For starters, I have read in numerous places that the lathe I have now is the exact same lathe as this one in the Jet lineup. The major differences between the two are the paint color, the supplied legs that are shipped with each of them, and the price. The color means nothing. I know for a fact that many items are made in the same factories, in the same assembly lines, and shot with different colors for different stores. I think most of us are aware of that. As for the legs, I don't know. From what I can see in the website photos, they look the same to me. It doesn't matter too much in my opinion though. For what I want, a machine that weighs as much as this one doesn't need heavier legs, and if it does eventually, I'll build a heavy stand for it.
> So let us start with the weight of the machine. This thing, as listed on the box when I got it back to my shop, weighs in at 187.85 pounds. I couldn't even get it out of the box, much less set it up. While my wife and I usually handle most things ourselves, I had to call for backup just to get this thing on it's stand.
> My only other complaint on this machine is the plastic used in some of the handles, such as the tool rest. That is usually expected in everything we buy these days though, and I am always good at working around these things by remaking them out of better material should anything ever go wrong with them. A fact of life these days is that products have too much plastic in them.
> I also want to address other things about this lathe though. Through research of it, I came across items of concern to me, and I just generally want to show off my new toy.
> $$$
> Let's start with price. If you buy the Jet version of this lathe, you will pay considerably more than Harbor Freight. That is to be expected. When I went and looked at the difference though, I was shocked.
> This lathe, on sale for $269.99 at Harbor Freight, was already in a reasonably price range for what it is. Then there are taxes added. However, we had a 25% off coupon. That brought the price down even considerably more. Then we added back a two year extended warranty to it. I have used Harbor Freight's warranties before and know for a fact that, if you pay for the warranty, they will take it back with no questions asked and give you a new one in the box. That brought the price back to about where it was. So for around $270, taxes included, we got the lathe and a two year extended warranty. I think that is a good deal.
> Now, the Jet lathe. I went to the Rockler site to price it. It is available online only in my area. I did not check twenty sites for the cheapest one. I just wanted to give a general idea. Here, on the Rockler site, before any possible taxes or shipping, the lathe sells for $919.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the tool rest. I did not even notice this feature when looking at this lathe, but it is nice. Both my other lathes have a bar that slides along the bed, then the extension bar swivels and the tool rest swivels. That works, but it limited. This one has more movement to it. I am sure this may be standard for flat bed lathes and no big deal to most experienced turners. This is my first flat bed lathe though, and for me, it is a whole world better than what I am used to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you who have never turned probably have no idea why a tool rest would be so important to me to even mention it. Well, besides just being more versatile, in addition to the swiveling head on this lathe, you can see just above the orientation I can put a bowl while working on the inside of it. This is a huge advantage to me. In the past, on the pipe bed lathes I've used, I eight had to walk around the back of the lathe. This put me on the opposite side of the lathe from the controls. That is something that has always made me uncomfortable. The other option was to lean over the bed, and work back towards me, into the downward turning bowl. This was not just uncomfortable to me, but downright painful if I done it for more than a couple of minutes at a time. This lathe's features will eliminate these issues all together. Once roughed out, I can just turn the whole headstock around towards me, adjust the tools rest accordingly, and be able to work much more comfortable than I have ever been able to while turning bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The single most complaint I have read in reviews of this lathe stemmed from this, the Reeve's variable speed system. I have read so many times, if you do not keep this oiled, it will fail, and the pulleys will literally fall apart in your hand. So I was a little apprehensive, when I pulled the cover off to oil it for the first time and to snap this photo, what horror I would find.
> Let me start by saying I would love to have electronic variable speed. There may come a point in time that electronic variable speed is obtainable to the common man. Most people cannot afford that luxury though. So, just having the ten speeds that this Reeve's system affords me is a blessing. On this machine, I will not have to remove a cover and change belts on a set of pulleys every time I change speeds.
> I have seen this system, and worked on this system, in many uses. It is very similar to the system on my old Total Shop. That motor now powered my shop made band saw and works flawlessly. The Total Shop was one of the cheaper made Shop Smith clones, and yes, it too was problematic if not oiled and maintained properly. Amazingly, I've also seen this system on variable speed PTO drives on tractors made decades ago.
> Yes, the pulleys do seem to be made out of less than premium material. However, the look to be of the same material I see on 99% of stock pulleys on any brand these days. It's pot metal. No it is not the strongest material known to man, but it has always, from my experience, worked well for pulleys as long as it's taken care of.
> The bottom line on this matter, to me, is this. This system involves moving parts that slide back and forth on a fixed shaft. Anything with moving parts, that move against unmoving parts, requires maintenance. If not, it will fail. That is a plain and simple truth no matter how you look at it. So, unless some other problem crops up in the future, this whole issue is a non-issue to me. For the torque the Reeve's system provide, in addition to the larger three quarter horse motor I have on this lathe compared to my others, I like this system.
> 
> So that's my new toy.
> You will see many more turning projects in my future, and I'll keep you all posted if any problems arise with the new lathe. I look for it to work very nicely for me.


Nice toy! Congrats all around, on both lathes!!!

Great description of the "pros & cons", as I actually learned something. There is a lathe in my future and I haven't invested time to research them yet, but you answered several questions that I DIDN'T know I had!!!

Looking forward to more of your insights, "As The Lathe Turns"! Thanks, for educating me!!!


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe Saga Continues*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been working on a project. In the meantime though, my newly found wood turning fascination is still in full swing. What you see here is the corner of my shop over behind the table saws where the lathe always sat. I use the word sat, as in past tense, because you may notice there are three lathes now.
> The one closest to the camera is the old one that I recently discovered had a bent shaft. I thought of carrying it out back and putting it out of it's misery, but I think it can still be of use.
> I am going to use it if I need to rough out something that is extremely out of balance. This will safe from having to worry about tearing up either of the other ones.
> Also I'm thinking, at the advice of an experienced wood turner I've been talking to, of setting up a polishing center for my turning projects that mounts between the centers on this lathe. The out of true condition the shaft presents will not effect a polishing set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, closest to the window, is the Ridgid lathe. It is actually very similar to the first lathe. Most of these pipe bed lathes made these days, besides some cosmetic and quality differences, are direct copies of an old Craftsman lathe I've seen from the eighties.
> The Ridgid lathe was given to me by a good friend. I talked about it in my last post. It is a good lathe. The shaft is made of thicker material, which makes me a little more confident. The accessory controls, such as handles for tightening up the tool rest for example, are better made. I believe it is going to be a decent lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The newest addition to the line up is the purpose of this post though. My lovely wife wanted to get me something nice for the upcoming Valentine's day, and this is what she got me. I have been wanting this lathe for some time and just have never been able to afford it. She has been putting in overtime at work and, while I don't think she will tell me that it was still hard on her to afford it, she used some of that extra cash to buy me the lathe I've been wanting.
> This lathe is from Harbor Freight. I can almost hear the groans from my computer screen when I typed that. I know Harbor Freight sells some pretty cheaply made stuff. If you do your research though, you can find some diamonds in the rough at that place. I believe this to be just one of those precious gems.
> For starters, I have read in numerous places that the lathe I have now is the exact same lathe as this one in the Jet lineup. The major differences between the two are the paint color, the supplied legs that are shipped with each of them, and the price. The color means nothing. I know for a fact that many items are made in the same factories, in the same assembly lines, and shot with different colors for different stores. I think most of us are aware of that. As for the legs, I don't know. From what I can see in the website photos, they look the same to me. It doesn't matter too much in my opinion though. For what I want, a machine that weighs as much as this one doesn't need heavier legs, and if it does eventually, I'll build a heavy stand for it.
> So let us start with the weight of the machine. This thing, as listed on the box when I got it back to my shop, weighs in at 187.85 pounds. I couldn't even get it out of the box, much less set it up. While my wife and I usually handle most things ourselves, I had to call for backup just to get this thing on it's stand.
> My only other complaint on this machine is the plastic used in some of the handles, such as the tool rest. That is usually expected in everything we buy these days though, and I am always good at working around these things by remaking them out of better material should anything ever go wrong with them. A fact of life these days is that products have too much plastic in them.
> I also want to address other things about this lathe though. Through research of it, I came across items of concern to me, and I just generally want to show off my new toy.
> $$$
> Let's start with price. If you buy the Jet version of this lathe, you will pay considerably more than Harbor Freight. That is to be expected. When I went and looked at the difference though, I was shocked.
> This lathe, on sale for $269.99 at Harbor Freight, was already in a reasonably price range for what it is. Then there are taxes added. However, we had a 25% off coupon. That brought the price down even considerably more. Then we added back a two year extended warranty to it. I have used Harbor Freight's warranties before and know for a fact that, if you pay for the warranty, they will take it back with no questions asked and give you a new one in the box. That brought the price back to about where it was. So for around $270, taxes included, we got the lathe and a two year extended warranty. I think that is a good deal.
> Now, the Jet lathe. I went to the Rockler site to price it. It is available online only in my area. I did not check twenty sites for the cheapest one. I just wanted to give a general idea. Here, on the Rockler site, before any possible taxes or shipping, the lathe sells for $919.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the tool rest. I did not even notice this feature when looking at this lathe, but it is nice. Both my other lathes have a bar that slides along the bed, then the extension bar swivels and the tool rest swivels. That works, but it limited. This one has more movement to it. I am sure this may be standard for flat bed lathes and no big deal to most experienced turners. This is my first flat bed lathe though, and for me, it is a whole world better than what I am used to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you who have never turned probably have no idea why a tool rest would be so important to me to even mention it. Well, besides just being more versatile, in addition to the swiveling head on this lathe, you can see just above the orientation I can put a bowl while working on the inside of it. This is a huge advantage to me. In the past, on the pipe bed lathes I've used, I eight had to walk around the back of the lathe. This put me on the opposite side of the lathe from the controls. That is something that has always made me uncomfortable. The other option was to lean over the bed, and work back towards me, into the downward turning bowl. This was not just uncomfortable to me, but downright painful if I done it for more than a couple of minutes at a time. This lathe's features will eliminate these issues all together. Once roughed out, I can just turn the whole headstock around towards me, adjust the tools rest accordingly, and be able to work much more comfortable than I have ever been able to while turning bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The single most complaint I have read in reviews of this lathe stemmed from this, the Reeve's variable speed system. I have read so many times, if you do not keep this oiled, it will fail, and the pulleys will literally fall apart in your hand. So I was a little apprehensive, when I pulled the cover off to oil it for the first time and to snap this photo, what horror I would find.
> Let me start by saying I would love to have electronic variable speed. There may come a point in time that electronic variable speed is obtainable to the common man. Most people cannot afford that luxury though. So, just having the ten speeds that this Reeve's system affords me is a blessing. On this machine, I will not have to remove a cover and change belts on a set of pulleys every time I change speeds.
> I have seen this system, and worked on this system, in many uses. It is very similar to the system on my old Total Shop. That motor now powered my shop made band saw and works flawlessly. The Total Shop was one of the cheaper made Shop Smith clones, and yes, it too was problematic if not oiled and maintained properly. Amazingly, I've also seen this system on variable speed PTO drives on tractors made decades ago.
> Yes, the pulleys do seem to be made out of less than premium material. However, the look to be of the same material I see on 99% of stock pulleys on any brand these days. It's pot metal. No it is not the strongest material known to man, but it has always, from my experience, worked well for pulleys as long as it's taken care of.
> The bottom line on this matter, to me, is this. This system involves moving parts that slide back and forth on a fixed shaft. Anything with moving parts, that move against unmoving parts, requires maintenance. If not, it will fail. That is a plain and simple truth no matter how you look at it. So, unless some other problem crops up in the future, this whole issue is a non-issue to me. For the torque the Reeve's system provide, in addition to the larger three quarter horse motor I have on this lathe compared to my others, I like this system.
> 
> So that's my new toy.
> You will see many more turning projects in my future, and I'll keep you all posted if any problems arise with the new lathe. I look for it to work very nicely for me.


Looking good, William. Hopefully you can start making some shavings soon!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe Saga Continues*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been working on a project. In the meantime though, my newly found wood turning fascination is still in full swing. What you see here is the corner of my shop over behind the table saws where the lathe always sat. I use the word sat, as in past tense, because you may notice there are three lathes now.
> The one closest to the camera is the old one that I recently discovered had a bent shaft. I thought of carrying it out back and putting it out of it's misery, but I think it can still be of use.
> I am going to use it if I need to rough out something that is extremely out of balance. This will safe from having to worry about tearing up either of the other ones.
> Also I'm thinking, at the advice of an experienced wood turner I've been talking to, of setting up a polishing center for my turning projects that mounts between the centers on this lathe. The out of true condition the shaft presents will not effect a polishing set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, closest to the window, is the Ridgid lathe. It is actually very similar to the first lathe. Most of these pipe bed lathes made these days, besides some cosmetic and quality differences, are direct copies of an old Craftsman lathe I've seen from the eighties.
> The Ridgid lathe was given to me by a good friend. I talked about it in my last post. It is a good lathe. The shaft is made of thicker material, which makes me a little more confident. The accessory controls, such as handles for tightening up the tool rest for example, are better made. I believe it is going to be a decent lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The newest addition to the line up is the purpose of this post though. My lovely wife wanted to get me something nice for the upcoming Valentine's day, and this is what she got me. I have been wanting this lathe for some time and just have never been able to afford it. She has been putting in overtime at work and, while I don't think she will tell me that it was still hard on her to afford it, she used some of that extra cash to buy me the lathe I've been wanting.
> This lathe is from Harbor Freight. I can almost hear the groans from my computer screen when I typed that. I know Harbor Freight sells some pretty cheaply made stuff. If you do your research though, you can find some diamonds in the rough at that place. I believe this to be just one of those precious gems.
> For starters, I have read in numerous places that the lathe I have now is the exact same lathe as this one in the Jet lineup. The major differences between the two are the paint color, the supplied legs that are shipped with each of them, and the price. The color means nothing. I know for a fact that many items are made in the same factories, in the same assembly lines, and shot with different colors for different stores. I think most of us are aware of that. As for the legs, I don't know. From what I can see in the website photos, they look the same to me. It doesn't matter too much in my opinion though. For what I want, a machine that weighs as much as this one doesn't need heavier legs, and if it does eventually, I'll build a heavy stand for it.
> So let us start with the weight of the machine. This thing, as listed on the box when I got it back to my shop, weighs in at 187.85 pounds. I couldn't even get it out of the box, much less set it up. While my wife and I usually handle most things ourselves, I had to call for backup just to get this thing on it's stand.
> My only other complaint on this machine is the plastic used in some of the handles, such as the tool rest. That is usually expected in everything we buy these days though, and I am always good at working around these things by remaking them out of better material should anything ever go wrong with them. A fact of life these days is that products have too much plastic in them.
> I also want to address other things about this lathe though. Through research of it, I came across items of concern to me, and I just generally want to show off my new toy.
> $$$
> Let's start with price. If you buy the Jet version of this lathe, you will pay considerably more than Harbor Freight. That is to be expected. When I went and looked at the difference though, I was shocked.
> This lathe, on sale for $269.99 at Harbor Freight, was already in a reasonably price range for what it is. Then there are taxes added. However, we had a 25% off coupon. That brought the price down even considerably more. Then we added back a two year extended warranty to it. I have used Harbor Freight's warranties before and know for a fact that, if you pay for the warranty, they will take it back with no questions asked and give you a new one in the box. That brought the price back to about where it was. So for around $270, taxes included, we got the lathe and a two year extended warranty. I think that is a good deal.
> Now, the Jet lathe. I went to the Rockler site to price it. It is available online only in my area. I did not check twenty sites for the cheapest one. I just wanted to give a general idea. Here, on the Rockler site, before any possible taxes or shipping, the lathe sells for $919.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the tool rest. I did not even notice this feature when looking at this lathe, but it is nice. Both my other lathes have a bar that slides along the bed, then the extension bar swivels and the tool rest swivels. That works, but it limited. This one has more movement to it. I am sure this may be standard for flat bed lathes and no big deal to most experienced turners. This is my first flat bed lathe though, and for me, it is a whole world better than what I am used to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you who have never turned probably have no idea why a tool rest would be so important to me to even mention it. Well, besides just being more versatile, in addition to the swiveling head on this lathe, you can see just above the orientation I can put a bowl while working on the inside of it. This is a huge advantage to me. In the past, on the pipe bed lathes I've used, I eight had to walk around the back of the lathe. This put me on the opposite side of the lathe from the controls. That is something that has always made me uncomfortable. The other option was to lean over the bed, and work back towards me, into the downward turning bowl. This was not just uncomfortable to me, but downright painful if I done it for more than a couple of minutes at a time. This lathe's features will eliminate these issues all together. Once roughed out, I can just turn the whole headstock around towards me, adjust the tools rest accordingly, and be able to work much more comfortable than I have ever been able to while turning bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The single most complaint I have read in reviews of this lathe stemmed from this, the Reeve's variable speed system. I have read so many times, if you do not keep this oiled, it will fail, and the pulleys will literally fall apart in your hand. So I was a little apprehensive, when I pulled the cover off to oil it for the first time and to snap this photo, what horror I would find.
> Let me start by saying I would love to have electronic variable speed. There may come a point in time that electronic variable speed is obtainable to the common man. Most people cannot afford that luxury though. So, just having the ten speeds that this Reeve's system affords me is a blessing. On this machine, I will not have to remove a cover and change belts on a set of pulleys every time I change speeds.
> I have seen this system, and worked on this system, in many uses. It is very similar to the system on my old Total Shop. That motor now powered my shop made band saw and works flawlessly. The Total Shop was one of the cheaper made Shop Smith clones, and yes, it too was problematic if not oiled and maintained properly. Amazingly, I've also seen this system on variable speed PTO drives on tractors made decades ago.
> Yes, the pulleys do seem to be made out of less than premium material. However, the look to be of the same material I see on 99% of stock pulleys on any brand these days. It's pot metal. No it is not the strongest material known to man, but it has always, from my experience, worked well for pulleys as long as it's taken care of.
> The bottom line on this matter, to me, is this. This system involves moving parts that slide back and forth on a fixed shaft. Anything with moving parts, that move against unmoving parts, requires maintenance. If not, it will fail. That is a plain and simple truth no matter how you look at it. So, unless some other problem crops up in the future, this whole issue is a non-issue to me. For the torque the Reeve's system provide, in addition to the larger three quarter horse motor I have on this lathe compared to my others, I like this system.
> 
> So that's my new toy.
> You will see many more turning projects in my future, and I'll keep you all posted if any problems arise with the new lathe. I look for it to work very nicely for me.


Rich, I hope to this week. I'm finishing up the marble machine soon.

Randy, what questions did I answer? I want to know if I got the right answers.


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe Saga Continues*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been working on a project. In the meantime though, my newly found wood turning fascination is still in full swing. What you see here is the corner of my shop over behind the table saws where the lathe always sat. I use the word sat, as in past tense, because you may notice there are three lathes now.
> The one closest to the camera is the old one that I recently discovered had a bent shaft. I thought of carrying it out back and putting it out of it's misery, but I think it can still be of use.
> I am going to use it if I need to rough out something that is extremely out of balance. This will safe from having to worry about tearing up either of the other ones.
> Also I'm thinking, at the advice of an experienced wood turner I've been talking to, of setting up a polishing center for my turning projects that mounts between the centers on this lathe. The out of true condition the shaft presents will not effect a polishing set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, closest to the window, is the Ridgid lathe. It is actually very similar to the first lathe. Most of these pipe bed lathes made these days, besides some cosmetic and quality differences, are direct copies of an old Craftsman lathe I've seen from the eighties.
> The Ridgid lathe was given to me by a good friend. I talked about it in my last post. It is a good lathe. The shaft is made of thicker material, which makes me a little more confident. The accessory controls, such as handles for tightening up the tool rest for example, are better made. I believe it is going to be a decent lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The newest addition to the line up is the purpose of this post though. My lovely wife wanted to get me something nice for the upcoming Valentine's day, and this is what she got me. I have been wanting this lathe for some time and just have never been able to afford it. She has been putting in overtime at work and, while I don't think she will tell me that it was still hard on her to afford it, she used some of that extra cash to buy me the lathe I've been wanting.
> This lathe is from Harbor Freight. I can almost hear the groans from my computer screen when I typed that. I know Harbor Freight sells some pretty cheaply made stuff. If you do your research though, you can find some diamonds in the rough at that place. I believe this to be just one of those precious gems.
> For starters, I have read in numerous places that the lathe I have now is the exact same lathe as this one in the Jet lineup. The major differences between the two are the paint color, the supplied legs that are shipped with each of them, and the price. The color means nothing. I know for a fact that many items are made in the same factories, in the same assembly lines, and shot with different colors for different stores. I think most of us are aware of that. As for the legs, I don't know. From what I can see in the website photos, they look the same to me. It doesn't matter too much in my opinion though. For what I want, a machine that weighs as much as this one doesn't need heavier legs, and if it does eventually, I'll build a heavy stand for it.
> So let us start with the weight of the machine. This thing, as listed on the box when I got it back to my shop, weighs in at 187.85 pounds. I couldn't even get it out of the box, much less set it up. While my wife and I usually handle most things ourselves, I had to call for backup just to get this thing on it's stand.
> My only other complaint on this machine is the plastic used in some of the handles, such as the tool rest. That is usually expected in everything we buy these days though, and I am always good at working around these things by remaking them out of better material should anything ever go wrong with them. A fact of life these days is that products have too much plastic in them.
> I also want to address other things about this lathe though. Through research of it, I came across items of concern to me, and I just generally want to show off my new toy.
> $$$
> Let's start with price. If you buy the Jet version of this lathe, you will pay considerably more than Harbor Freight. That is to be expected. When I went and looked at the difference though, I was shocked.
> This lathe, on sale for $269.99 at Harbor Freight, was already in a reasonably price range for what it is. Then there are taxes added. However, we had a 25% off coupon. That brought the price down even considerably more. Then we added back a two year extended warranty to it. I have used Harbor Freight's warranties before and know for a fact that, if you pay for the warranty, they will take it back with no questions asked and give you a new one in the box. That brought the price back to about where it was. So for around $270, taxes included, we got the lathe and a two year extended warranty. I think that is a good deal.
> Now, the Jet lathe. I went to the Rockler site to price it. It is available online only in my area. I did not check twenty sites for the cheapest one. I just wanted to give a general idea. Here, on the Rockler site, before any possible taxes or shipping, the lathe sells for $919.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the tool rest. I did not even notice this feature when looking at this lathe, but it is nice. Both my other lathes have a bar that slides along the bed, then the extension bar swivels and the tool rest swivels. That works, but it limited. This one has more movement to it. I am sure this may be standard for flat bed lathes and no big deal to most experienced turners. This is my first flat bed lathe though, and for me, it is a whole world better than what I am used to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you who have never turned probably have no idea why a tool rest would be so important to me to even mention it. Well, besides just being more versatile, in addition to the swiveling head on this lathe, you can see just above the orientation I can put a bowl while working on the inside of it. This is a huge advantage to me. In the past, on the pipe bed lathes I've used, I eight had to walk around the back of the lathe. This put me on the opposite side of the lathe from the controls. That is something that has always made me uncomfortable. The other option was to lean over the bed, and work back towards me, into the downward turning bowl. This was not just uncomfortable to me, but downright painful if I done it for more than a couple of minutes at a time. This lathe's features will eliminate these issues all together. Once roughed out, I can just turn the whole headstock around towards me, adjust the tools rest accordingly, and be able to work much more comfortable than I have ever been able to while turning bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The single most complaint I have read in reviews of this lathe stemmed from this, the Reeve's variable speed system. I have read so many times, if you do not keep this oiled, it will fail, and the pulleys will literally fall apart in your hand. So I was a little apprehensive, when I pulled the cover off to oil it for the first time and to snap this photo, what horror I would find.
> Let me start by saying I would love to have electronic variable speed. There may come a point in time that electronic variable speed is obtainable to the common man. Most people cannot afford that luxury though. So, just having the ten speeds that this Reeve's system affords me is a blessing. On this machine, I will not have to remove a cover and change belts on a set of pulleys every time I change speeds.
> I have seen this system, and worked on this system, in many uses. It is very similar to the system on my old Total Shop. That motor now powered my shop made band saw and works flawlessly. The Total Shop was one of the cheaper made Shop Smith clones, and yes, it too was problematic if not oiled and maintained properly. Amazingly, I've also seen this system on variable speed PTO drives on tractors made decades ago.
> Yes, the pulleys do seem to be made out of less than premium material. However, the look to be of the same material I see on 99% of stock pulleys on any brand these days. It's pot metal. No it is not the strongest material known to man, but it has always, from my experience, worked well for pulleys as long as it's taken care of.
> The bottom line on this matter, to me, is this. This system involves moving parts that slide back and forth on a fixed shaft. Anything with moving parts, that move against unmoving parts, requires maintenance. If not, it will fail. That is a plain and simple truth no matter how you look at it. So, unless some other problem crops up in the future, this whole issue is a non-issue to me. For the torque the Reeve's system provide, in addition to the larger three quarter horse motor I have on this lathe compared to my others, I like this system.
> 
> So that's my new toy.
> You will see many more turning projects in my future, and I'll keep you all posted if any problems arise with the new lathe. I look for it to work very nicely for me.


William those a great lathes.
There are several brands of the same thing.
I think it is the most user friendly of all the lathes available 
The speed change is a pleasure, I even change speeds to suit what I'm turning or sanding
Whereas with my others I tend to select one speed and stick with it regardless which is not
the best practice. I've had three of them over the years, as they were all used for students
they get a fair amount of abuse. I got my fourth one recently and it will get hammered as 
well, but I do cost that in to the lessons.
Enjoy, and make something nice for your wonderful wife.
Jamie


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe Saga Continues*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been working on a project. In the meantime though, my newly found wood turning fascination is still in full swing. What you see here is the corner of my shop over behind the table saws where the lathe always sat. I use the word sat, as in past tense, because you may notice there are three lathes now.
> The one closest to the camera is the old one that I recently discovered had a bent shaft. I thought of carrying it out back and putting it out of it's misery, but I think it can still be of use.
> I am going to use it if I need to rough out something that is extremely out of balance. This will safe from having to worry about tearing up either of the other ones.
> Also I'm thinking, at the advice of an experienced wood turner I've been talking to, of setting up a polishing center for my turning projects that mounts between the centers on this lathe. The out of true condition the shaft presents will not effect a polishing set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, closest to the window, is the Ridgid lathe. It is actually very similar to the first lathe. Most of these pipe bed lathes made these days, besides some cosmetic and quality differences, are direct copies of an old Craftsman lathe I've seen from the eighties.
> The Ridgid lathe was given to me by a good friend. I talked about it in my last post. It is a good lathe. The shaft is made of thicker material, which makes me a little more confident. The accessory controls, such as handles for tightening up the tool rest for example, are better made. I believe it is going to be a decent lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The newest addition to the line up is the purpose of this post though. My lovely wife wanted to get me something nice for the upcoming Valentine's day, and this is what she got me. I have been wanting this lathe for some time and just have never been able to afford it. She has been putting in overtime at work and, while I don't think she will tell me that it was still hard on her to afford it, she used some of that extra cash to buy me the lathe I've been wanting.
> This lathe is from Harbor Freight. I can almost hear the groans from my computer screen when I typed that. I know Harbor Freight sells some pretty cheaply made stuff. If you do your research though, you can find some diamonds in the rough at that place. I believe this to be just one of those precious gems.
> For starters, I have read in numerous places that the lathe I have now is the exact same lathe as this one in the Jet lineup. The major differences between the two are the paint color, the supplied legs that are shipped with each of them, and the price. The color means nothing. I know for a fact that many items are made in the same factories, in the same assembly lines, and shot with different colors for different stores. I think most of us are aware of that. As for the legs, I don't know. From what I can see in the website photos, they look the same to me. It doesn't matter too much in my opinion though. For what I want, a machine that weighs as much as this one doesn't need heavier legs, and if it does eventually, I'll build a heavy stand for it.
> So let us start with the weight of the machine. This thing, as listed on the box when I got it back to my shop, weighs in at 187.85 pounds. I couldn't even get it out of the box, much less set it up. While my wife and I usually handle most things ourselves, I had to call for backup just to get this thing on it's stand.
> My only other complaint on this machine is the plastic used in some of the handles, such as the tool rest. That is usually expected in everything we buy these days though, and I am always good at working around these things by remaking them out of better material should anything ever go wrong with them. A fact of life these days is that products have too much plastic in them.
> I also want to address other things about this lathe though. Through research of it, I came across items of concern to me, and I just generally want to show off my new toy.
> $$$
> Let's start with price. If you buy the Jet version of this lathe, you will pay considerably more than Harbor Freight. That is to be expected. When I went and looked at the difference though, I was shocked.
> This lathe, on sale for $269.99 at Harbor Freight, was already in a reasonably price range for what it is. Then there are taxes added. However, we had a 25% off coupon. That brought the price down even considerably more. Then we added back a two year extended warranty to it. I have used Harbor Freight's warranties before and know for a fact that, if you pay for the warranty, they will take it back with no questions asked and give you a new one in the box. That brought the price back to about where it was. So for around $270, taxes included, we got the lathe and a two year extended warranty. I think that is a good deal.
> Now, the Jet lathe. I went to the Rockler site to price it. It is available online only in my area. I did not check twenty sites for the cheapest one. I just wanted to give a general idea. Here, on the Rockler site, before any possible taxes or shipping, the lathe sells for $919.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the tool rest. I did not even notice this feature when looking at this lathe, but it is nice. Both my other lathes have a bar that slides along the bed, then the extension bar swivels and the tool rest swivels. That works, but it limited. This one has more movement to it. I am sure this may be standard for flat bed lathes and no big deal to most experienced turners. This is my first flat bed lathe though, and for me, it is a whole world better than what I am used to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you who have never turned probably have no idea why a tool rest would be so important to me to even mention it. Well, besides just being more versatile, in addition to the swiveling head on this lathe, you can see just above the orientation I can put a bowl while working on the inside of it. This is a huge advantage to me. In the past, on the pipe bed lathes I've used, I eight had to walk around the back of the lathe. This put me on the opposite side of the lathe from the controls. That is something that has always made me uncomfortable. The other option was to lean over the bed, and work back towards me, into the downward turning bowl. This was not just uncomfortable to me, but downright painful if I done it for more than a couple of minutes at a time. This lathe's features will eliminate these issues all together. Once roughed out, I can just turn the whole headstock around towards me, adjust the tools rest accordingly, and be able to work much more comfortable than I have ever been able to while turning bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The single most complaint I have read in reviews of this lathe stemmed from this, the Reeve's variable speed system. I have read so many times, if you do not keep this oiled, it will fail, and the pulleys will literally fall apart in your hand. So I was a little apprehensive, when I pulled the cover off to oil it for the first time and to snap this photo, what horror I would find.
> Let me start by saying I would love to have electronic variable speed. There may come a point in time that electronic variable speed is obtainable to the common man. Most people cannot afford that luxury though. So, just having the ten speeds that this Reeve's system affords me is a blessing. On this machine, I will not have to remove a cover and change belts on a set of pulleys every time I change speeds.
> I have seen this system, and worked on this system, in many uses. It is very similar to the system on my old Total Shop. That motor now powered my shop made band saw and works flawlessly. The Total Shop was one of the cheaper made Shop Smith clones, and yes, it too was problematic if not oiled and maintained properly. Amazingly, I've also seen this system on variable speed PTO drives on tractors made decades ago.
> Yes, the pulleys do seem to be made out of less than premium material. However, the look to be of the same material I see on 99% of stock pulleys on any brand these days. It's pot metal. No it is not the strongest material known to man, but it has always, from my experience, worked well for pulleys as long as it's taken care of.
> The bottom line on this matter, to me, is this. This system involves moving parts that slide back and forth on a fixed shaft. Anything with moving parts, that move against unmoving parts, requires maintenance. If not, it will fail. That is a plain and simple truth no matter how you look at it. So, unless some other problem crops up in the future, this whole issue is a non-issue to me. For the torque the Reeve's system provide, in addition to the larger three quarter horse motor I have on this lathe compared to my others, I like this system.
> 
> So that's my new toy.
> You will see many more turning projects in my future, and I'll keep you all posted if any problems arise with the new lathe. I look for it to work very nicely for me.


Thanks Jamie.
I find that, with my other two lathe, I do the same thing. I keep in on one speed and leave it there. Sometimes, if the kids aren't around, I'll just leave the cover open so I can change the belts on the pulleys for speed changes. If they are in the shop though, I don't like the moving belts being exposed and it becomes too much hassle just getting to them.
I love how this lathe changes speed while moving. Actually, with the reeve's system, the motor is supposed to be running anytime you do change speeds. That makes things quicker, and more likely I'll start adjusting my speed for what I'm doing instead of adjusting what I'm doing according to the speed.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe Saga Continues*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been working on a project. In the meantime though, my newly found wood turning fascination is still in full swing. What you see here is the corner of my shop over behind the table saws where the lathe always sat. I use the word sat, as in past tense, because you may notice there are three lathes now.
> The one closest to the camera is the old one that I recently discovered had a bent shaft. I thought of carrying it out back and putting it out of it's misery, but I think it can still be of use.
> I am going to use it if I need to rough out something that is extremely out of balance. This will safe from having to worry about tearing up either of the other ones.
> Also I'm thinking, at the advice of an experienced wood turner I've been talking to, of setting up a polishing center for my turning projects that mounts between the centers on this lathe. The out of true condition the shaft presents will not effect a polishing set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, closest to the window, is the Ridgid lathe. It is actually very similar to the first lathe. Most of these pipe bed lathes made these days, besides some cosmetic and quality differences, are direct copies of an old Craftsman lathe I've seen from the eighties.
> The Ridgid lathe was given to me by a good friend. I talked about it in my last post. It is a good lathe. The shaft is made of thicker material, which makes me a little more confident. The accessory controls, such as handles for tightening up the tool rest for example, are better made. I believe it is going to be a decent lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The newest addition to the line up is the purpose of this post though. My lovely wife wanted to get me something nice for the upcoming Valentine's day, and this is what she got me. I have been wanting this lathe for some time and just have never been able to afford it. She has been putting in overtime at work and, while I don't think she will tell me that it was still hard on her to afford it, she used some of that extra cash to buy me the lathe I've been wanting.
> This lathe is from Harbor Freight. I can almost hear the groans from my computer screen when I typed that. I know Harbor Freight sells some pretty cheaply made stuff. If you do your research though, you can find some diamonds in the rough at that place. I believe this to be just one of those precious gems.
> For starters, I have read in numerous places that the lathe I have now is the exact same lathe as this one in the Jet lineup. The major differences between the two are the paint color, the supplied legs that are shipped with each of them, and the price. The color means nothing. I know for a fact that many items are made in the same factories, in the same assembly lines, and shot with different colors for different stores. I think most of us are aware of that. As for the legs, I don't know. From what I can see in the website photos, they look the same to me. It doesn't matter too much in my opinion though. For what I want, a machine that weighs as much as this one doesn't need heavier legs, and if it does eventually, I'll build a heavy stand for it.
> So let us start with the weight of the machine. This thing, as listed on the box when I got it back to my shop, weighs in at 187.85 pounds. I couldn't even get it out of the box, much less set it up. While my wife and I usually handle most things ourselves, I had to call for backup just to get this thing on it's stand.
> My only other complaint on this machine is the plastic used in some of the handles, such as the tool rest. That is usually expected in everything we buy these days though, and I am always good at working around these things by remaking them out of better material should anything ever go wrong with them. A fact of life these days is that products have too much plastic in them.
> I also want to address other things about this lathe though. Through research of it, I came across items of concern to me, and I just generally want to show off my new toy.
> $$$
> Let's start with price. If you buy the Jet version of this lathe, you will pay considerably more than Harbor Freight. That is to be expected. When I went and looked at the difference though, I was shocked.
> This lathe, on sale for $269.99 at Harbor Freight, was already in a reasonably price range for what it is. Then there are taxes added. However, we had a 25% off coupon. That brought the price down even considerably more. Then we added back a two year extended warranty to it. I have used Harbor Freight's warranties before and know for a fact that, if you pay for the warranty, they will take it back with no questions asked and give you a new one in the box. That brought the price back to about where it was. So for around $270, taxes included, we got the lathe and a two year extended warranty. I think that is a good deal.
> Now, the Jet lathe. I went to the Rockler site to price it. It is available online only in my area. I did not check twenty sites for the cheapest one. I just wanted to give a general idea. Here, on the Rockler site, before any possible taxes or shipping, the lathe sells for $919.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the tool rest. I did not even notice this feature when looking at this lathe, but it is nice. Both my other lathes have a bar that slides along the bed, then the extension bar swivels and the tool rest swivels. That works, but it limited. This one has more movement to it. I am sure this may be standard for flat bed lathes and no big deal to most experienced turners. This is my first flat bed lathe though, and for me, it is a whole world better than what I am used to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you who have never turned probably have no idea why a tool rest would be so important to me to even mention it. Well, besides just being more versatile, in addition to the swiveling head on this lathe, you can see just above the orientation I can put a bowl while working on the inside of it. This is a huge advantage to me. In the past, on the pipe bed lathes I've used, I eight had to walk around the back of the lathe. This put me on the opposite side of the lathe from the controls. That is something that has always made me uncomfortable. The other option was to lean over the bed, and work back towards me, into the downward turning bowl. This was not just uncomfortable to me, but downright painful if I done it for more than a couple of minutes at a time. This lathe's features will eliminate these issues all together. Once roughed out, I can just turn the whole headstock around towards me, adjust the tools rest accordingly, and be able to work much more comfortable than I have ever been able to while turning bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The single most complaint I have read in reviews of this lathe stemmed from this, the Reeve's variable speed system. I have read so many times, if you do not keep this oiled, it will fail, and the pulleys will literally fall apart in your hand. So I was a little apprehensive, when I pulled the cover off to oil it for the first time and to snap this photo, what horror I would find.
> Let me start by saying I would love to have electronic variable speed. There may come a point in time that electronic variable speed is obtainable to the common man. Most people cannot afford that luxury though. So, just having the ten speeds that this Reeve's system affords me is a blessing. On this machine, I will not have to remove a cover and change belts on a set of pulleys every time I change speeds.
> I have seen this system, and worked on this system, in many uses. It is very similar to the system on my old Total Shop. That motor now powered my shop made band saw and works flawlessly. The Total Shop was one of the cheaper made Shop Smith clones, and yes, it too was problematic if not oiled and maintained properly. Amazingly, I've also seen this system on variable speed PTO drives on tractors made decades ago.
> Yes, the pulleys do seem to be made out of less than premium material. However, the look to be of the same material I see on 99% of stock pulleys on any brand these days. It's pot metal. No it is not the strongest material known to man, but it has always, from my experience, worked well for pulleys as long as it's taken care of.
> The bottom line on this matter, to me, is this. This system involves moving parts that slide back and forth on a fixed shaft. Anything with moving parts, that move against unmoving parts, requires maintenance. If not, it will fail. That is a plain and simple truth no matter how you look at it. So, unless some other problem crops up in the future, this whole issue is a non-issue to me. For the torque the Reeve's system provide, in addition to the larger three quarter horse motor I have on this lathe compared to my others, I like this system.
> 
> So that's my new toy.
> You will see many more turning projects in my future, and I'll keep you all posted if any problems arise with the new lathe. I look for it to work very nicely for me.


First of all - I can't believe all the shop space you have there…...MAN….three lathes and counting…...the new rig looks good. I stopped at HF yesterday to pick up a couple of those moving dollies for $7.99 each…(solid value)....and checked out the lathe cause I knew you were picking it up. For the money it looks like quite a bargain. Will be interested to here how it holds up…...

Looking forwards to the projects…..


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe Saga Continues*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been working on a project. In the meantime though, my newly found wood turning fascination is still in full swing. What you see here is the corner of my shop over behind the table saws where the lathe always sat. I use the word sat, as in past tense, because you may notice there are three lathes now.
> The one closest to the camera is the old one that I recently discovered had a bent shaft. I thought of carrying it out back and putting it out of it's misery, but I think it can still be of use.
> I am going to use it if I need to rough out something that is extremely out of balance. This will safe from having to worry about tearing up either of the other ones.
> Also I'm thinking, at the advice of an experienced wood turner I've been talking to, of setting up a polishing center for my turning projects that mounts between the centers on this lathe. The out of true condition the shaft presents will not effect a polishing set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, closest to the window, is the Ridgid lathe. It is actually very similar to the first lathe. Most of these pipe bed lathes made these days, besides some cosmetic and quality differences, are direct copies of an old Craftsman lathe I've seen from the eighties.
> The Ridgid lathe was given to me by a good friend. I talked about it in my last post. It is a good lathe. The shaft is made of thicker material, which makes me a little more confident. The accessory controls, such as handles for tightening up the tool rest for example, are better made. I believe it is going to be a decent lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The newest addition to the line up is the purpose of this post though. My lovely wife wanted to get me something nice for the upcoming Valentine's day, and this is what she got me. I have been wanting this lathe for some time and just have never been able to afford it. She has been putting in overtime at work and, while I don't think she will tell me that it was still hard on her to afford it, she used some of that extra cash to buy me the lathe I've been wanting.
> This lathe is from Harbor Freight. I can almost hear the groans from my computer screen when I typed that. I know Harbor Freight sells some pretty cheaply made stuff. If you do your research though, you can find some diamonds in the rough at that place. I believe this to be just one of those precious gems.
> For starters, I have read in numerous places that the lathe I have now is the exact same lathe as this one in the Jet lineup. The major differences between the two are the paint color, the supplied legs that are shipped with each of them, and the price. The color means nothing. I know for a fact that many items are made in the same factories, in the same assembly lines, and shot with different colors for different stores. I think most of us are aware of that. As for the legs, I don't know. From what I can see in the website photos, they look the same to me. It doesn't matter too much in my opinion though. For what I want, a machine that weighs as much as this one doesn't need heavier legs, and if it does eventually, I'll build a heavy stand for it.
> So let us start with the weight of the machine. This thing, as listed on the box when I got it back to my shop, weighs in at 187.85 pounds. I couldn't even get it out of the box, much less set it up. While my wife and I usually handle most things ourselves, I had to call for backup just to get this thing on it's stand.
> My only other complaint on this machine is the plastic used in some of the handles, such as the tool rest. That is usually expected in everything we buy these days though, and I am always good at working around these things by remaking them out of better material should anything ever go wrong with them. A fact of life these days is that products have too much plastic in them.
> I also want to address other things about this lathe though. Through research of it, I came across items of concern to me, and I just generally want to show off my new toy.
> $$$
> Let's start with price. If you buy the Jet version of this lathe, you will pay considerably more than Harbor Freight. That is to be expected. When I went and looked at the difference though, I was shocked.
> This lathe, on sale for $269.99 at Harbor Freight, was already in a reasonably price range for what it is. Then there are taxes added. However, we had a 25% off coupon. That brought the price down even considerably more. Then we added back a two year extended warranty to it. I have used Harbor Freight's warranties before and know for a fact that, if you pay for the warranty, they will take it back with no questions asked and give you a new one in the box. That brought the price back to about where it was. So for around $270, taxes included, we got the lathe and a two year extended warranty. I think that is a good deal.
> Now, the Jet lathe. I went to the Rockler site to price it. It is available online only in my area. I did not check twenty sites for the cheapest one. I just wanted to give a general idea. Here, on the Rockler site, before any possible taxes or shipping, the lathe sells for $919.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the tool rest. I did not even notice this feature when looking at this lathe, but it is nice. Both my other lathes have a bar that slides along the bed, then the extension bar swivels and the tool rest swivels. That works, but it limited. This one has more movement to it. I am sure this may be standard for flat bed lathes and no big deal to most experienced turners. This is my first flat bed lathe though, and for me, it is a whole world better than what I am used to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you who have never turned probably have no idea why a tool rest would be so important to me to even mention it. Well, besides just being more versatile, in addition to the swiveling head on this lathe, you can see just above the orientation I can put a bowl while working on the inside of it. This is a huge advantage to me. In the past, on the pipe bed lathes I've used, I eight had to walk around the back of the lathe. This put me on the opposite side of the lathe from the controls. That is something that has always made me uncomfortable. The other option was to lean over the bed, and work back towards me, into the downward turning bowl. This was not just uncomfortable to me, but downright painful if I done it for more than a couple of minutes at a time. This lathe's features will eliminate these issues all together. Once roughed out, I can just turn the whole headstock around towards me, adjust the tools rest accordingly, and be able to work much more comfortable than I have ever been able to while turning bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The single most complaint I have read in reviews of this lathe stemmed from this, the Reeve's variable speed system. I have read so many times, if you do not keep this oiled, it will fail, and the pulleys will literally fall apart in your hand. So I was a little apprehensive, when I pulled the cover off to oil it for the first time and to snap this photo, what horror I would find.
> Let me start by saying I would love to have electronic variable speed. There may come a point in time that electronic variable speed is obtainable to the common man. Most people cannot afford that luxury though. So, just having the ten speeds that this Reeve's system affords me is a blessing. On this machine, I will not have to remove a cover and change belts on a set of pulleys every time I change speeds.
> I have seen this system, and worked on this system, in many uses. It is very similar to the system on my old Total Shop. That motor now powered my shop made band saw and works flawlessly. The Total Shop was one of the cheaper made Shop Smith clones, and yes, it too was problematic if not oiled and maintained properly. Amazingly, I've also seen this system on variable speed PTO drives on tractors made decades ago.
> Yes, the pulleys do seem to be made out of less than premium material. However, the look to be of the same material I see on 99% of stock pulleys on any brand these days. It's pot metal. No it is not the strongest material known to man, but it has always, from my experience, worked well for pulleys as long as it's taken care of.
> The bottom line on this matter, to me, is this. This system involves moving parts that slide back and forth on a fixed shaft. Anything with moving parts, that move against unmoving parts, requires maintenance. If not, it will fail. That is a plain and simple truth no matter how you look at it. So, unless some other problem crops up in the future, this whole issue is a non-issue to me. For the torque the Reeve's system provide, in addition to the larger three quarter horse motor I have on this lathe compared to my others, I like this system.
> 
> So that's my new toy.
> You will see many more turning projects in my future, and I'll keep you all posted if any problems arise with the new lathe. I look for it to work very nicely for me.


Go get em William. 
I wana come over and play.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe Saga Continues*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been working on a project. In the meantime though, my newly found wood turning fascination is still in full swing. What you see here is the corner of my shop over behind the table saws where the lathe always sat. I use the word sat, as in past tense, because you may notice there are three lathes now.
> The one closest to the camera is the old one that I recently discovered had a bent shaft. I thought of carrying it out back and putting it out of it's misery, but I think it can still be of use.
> I am going to use it if I need to rough out something that is extremely out of balance. This will safe from having to worry about tearing up either of the other ones.
> Also I'm thinking, at the advice of an experienced wood turner I've been talking to, of setting up a polishing center for my turning projects that mounts between the centers on this lathe. The out of true condition the shaft presents will not effect a polishing set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, closest to the window, is the Ridgid lathe. It is actually very similar to the first lathe. Most of these pipe bed lathes made these days, besides some cosmetic and quality differences, are direct copies of an old Craftsman lathe I've seen from the eighties.
> The Ridgid lathe was given to me by a good friend. I talked about it in my last post. It is a good lathe. The shaft is made of thicker material, which makes me a little more confident. The accessory controls, such as handles for tightening up the tool rest for example, are better made. I believe it is going to be a decent lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The newest addition to the line up is the purpose of this post though. My lovely wife wanted to get me something nice for the upcoming Valentine's day, and this is what she got me. I have been wanting this lathe for some time and just have never been able to afford it. She has been putting in overtime at work and, while I don't think she will tell me that it was still hard on her to afford it, she used some of that extra cash to buy me the lathe I've been wanting.
> This lathe is from Harbor Freight. I can almost hear the groans from my computer screen when I typed that. I know Harbor Freight sells some pretty cheaply made stuff. If you do your research though, you can find some diamonds in the rough at that place. I believe this to be just one of those precious gems.
> For starters, I have read in numerous places that the lathe I have now is the exact same lathe as this one in the Jet lineup. The major differences between the two are the paint color, the supplied legs that are shipped with each of them, and the price. The color means nothing. I know for a fact that many items are made in the same factories, in the same assembly lines, and shot with different colors for different stores. I think most of us are aware of that. As for the legs, I don't know. From what I can see in the website photos, they look the same to me. It doesn't matter too much in my opinion though. For what I want, a machine that weighs as much as this one doesn't need heavier legs, and if it does eventually, I'll build a heavy stand for it.
> So let us start with the weight of the machine. This thing, as listed on the box when I got it back to my shop, weighs in at 187.85 pounds. I couldn't even get it out of the box, much less set it up. While my wife and I usually handle most things ourselves, I had to call for backup just to get this thing on it's stand.
> My only other complaint on this machine is the plastic used in some of the handles, such as the tool rest. That is usually expected in everything we buy these days though, and I am always good at working around these things by remaking them out of better material should anything ever go wrong with them. A fact of life these days is that products have too much plastic in them.
> I also want to address other things about this lathe though. Through research of it, I came across items of concern to me, and I just generally want to show off my new toy.
> $$$
> Let's start with price. If you buy the Jet version of this lathe, you will pay considerably more than Harbor Freight. That is to be expected. When I went and looked at the difference though, I was shocked.
> This lathe, on sale for $269.99 at Harbor Freight, was already in a reasonably price range for what it is. Then there are taxes added. However, we had a 25% off coupon. That brought the price down even considerably more. Then we added back a two year extended warranty to it. I have used Harbor Freight's warranties before and know for a fact that, if you pay for the warranty, they will take it back with no questions asked and give you a new one in the box. That brought the price back to about where it was. So for around $270, taxes included, we got the lathe and a two year extended warranty. I think that is a good deal.
> Now, the Jet lathe. I went to the Rockler site to price it. It is available online only in my area. I did not check twenty sites for the cheapest one. I just wanted to give a general idea. Here, on the Rockler site, before any possible taxes or shipping, the lathe sells for $919.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the tool rest. I did not even notice this feature when looking at this lathe, but it is nice. Both my other lathes have a bar that slides along the bed, then the extension bar swivels and the tool rest swivels. That works, but it limited. This one has more movement to it. I am sure this may be standard for flat bed lathes and no big deal to most experienced turners. This is my first flat bed lathe though, and for me, it is a whole world better than what I am used to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you who have never turned probably have no idea why a tool rest would be so important to me to even mention it. Well, besides just being more versatile, in addition to the swiveling head on this lathe, you can see just above the orientation I can put a bowl while working on the inside of it. This is a huge advantage to me. In the past, on the pipe bed lathes I've used, I eight had to walk around the back of the lathe. This put me on the opposite side of the lathe from the controls. That is something that has always made me uncomfortable. The other option was to lean over the bed, and work back towards me, into the downward turning bowl. This was not just uncomfortable to me, but downright painful if I done it for more than a couple of minutes at a time. This lathe's features will eliminate these issues all together. Once roughed out, I can just turn the whole headstock around towards me, adjust the tools rest accordingly, and be able to work much more comfortable than I have ever been able to while turning bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The single most complaint I have read in reviews of this lathe stemmed from this, the Reeve's variable speed system. I have read so many times, if you do not keep this oiled, it will fail, and the pulleys will literally fall apart in your hand. So I was a little apprehensive, when I pulled the cover off to oil it for the first time and to snap this photo, what horror I would find.
> Let me start by saying I would love to have electronic variable speed. There may come a point in time that electronic variable speed is obtainable to the common man. Most people cannot afford that luxury though. So, just having the ten speeds that this Reeve's system affords me is a blessing. On this machine, I will not have to remove a cover and change belts on a set of pulleys every time I change speeds.
> I have seen this system, and worked on this system, in many uses. It is very similar to the system on my old Total Shop. That motor now powered my shop made band saw and works flawlessly. The Total Shop was one of the cheaper made Shop Smith clones, and yes, it too was problematic if not oiled and maintained properly. Amazingly, I've also seen this system on variable speed PTO drives on tractors made decades ago.
> Yes, the pulleys do seem to be made out of less than premium material. However, the look to be of the same material I see on 99% of stock pulleys on any brand these days. It's pot metal. No it is not the strongest material known to man, but it has always, from my experience, worked well for pulleys as long as it's taken care of.
> The bottom line on this matter, to me, is this. This system involves moving parts that slide back and forth on a fixed shaft. Anything with moving parts, that move against unmoving parts, requires maintenance. If not, it will fail. That is a plain and simple truth no matter how you look at it. So, unless some other problem crops up in the future, this whole issue is a non-issue to me. For the torque the Reeve's system provide, in addition to the larger three quarter horse motor I have on this lathe compared to my others, I like this system.
> 
> So that's my new toy.
> You will see many more turning projects in my future, and I'll keep you all posted if any problems arise with the new lathe. I look for it to work very nicely for me.


Jeff, I will be getting to it sometime this week. I completed my latest project today.
One of my sons unloaded some small logs in front of my shop today. If I feel up to it in the morning, my first task is to run a cord for my saw (yes, I have an electric chain saw. yes you can laugh at that now) and see what, if any, of it is suitable for some bowls.

Dave, you know you're welcome to come over and play any time you get ready.


----------



## ShaneA

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe Saga Continues*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been working on a project. In the meantime though, my newly found wood turning fascination is still in full swing. What you see here is the corner of my shop over behind the table saws where the lathe always sat. I use the word sat, as in past tense, because you may notice there are three lathes now.
> The one closest to the camera is the old one that I recently discovered had a bent shaft. I thought of carrying it out back and putting it out of it's misery, but I think it can still be of use.
> I am going to use it if I need to rough out something that is extremely out of balance. This will safe from having to worry about tearing up either of the other ones.
> Also I'm thinking, at the advice of an experienced wood turner I've been talking to, of setting up a polishing center for my turning projects that mounts between the centers on this lathe. The out of true condition the shaft presents will not effect a polishing set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, closest to the window, is the Ridgid lathe. It is actually very similar to the first lathe. Most of these pipe bed lathes made these days, besides some cosmetic and quality differences, are direct copies of an old Craftsman lathe I've seen from the eighties.
> The Ridgid lathe was given to me by a good friend. I talked about it in my last post. It is a good lathe. The shaft is made of thicker material, which makes me a little more confident. The accessory controls, such as handles for tightening up the tool rest for example, are better made. I believe it is going to be a decent lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The newest addition to the line up is the purpose of this post though. My lovely wife wanted to get me something nice for the upcoming Valentine's day, and this is what she got me. I have been wanting this lathe for some time and just have never been able to afford it. She has been putting in overtime at work and, while I don't think she will tell me that it was still hard on her to afford it, she used some of that extra cash to buy me the lathe I've been wanting.
> This lathe is from Harbor Freight. I can almost hear the groans from my computer screen when I typed that. I know Harbor Freight sells some pretty cheaply made stuff. If you do your research though, you can find some diamonds in the rough at that place. I believe this to be just one of those precious gems.
> For starters, I have read in numerous places that the lathe I have now is the exact same lathe as this one in the Jet lineup. The major differences between the two are the paint color, the supplied legs that are shipped with each of them, and the price. The color means nothing. I know for a fact that many items are made in the same factories, in the same assembly lines, and shot with different colors for different stores. I think most of us are aware of that. As for the legs, I don't know. From what I can see in the website photos, they look the same to me. It doesn't matter too much in my opinion though. For what I want, a machine that weighs as much as this one doesn't need heavier legs, and if it does eventually, I'll build a heavy stand for it.
> So let us start with the weight of the machine. This thing, as listed on the box when I got it back to my shop, weighs in at 187.85 pounds. I couldn't even get it out of the box, much less set it up. While my wife and I usually handle most things ourselves, I had to call for backup just to get this thing on it's stand.
> My only other complaint on this machine is the plastic used in some of the handles, such as the tool rest. That is usually expected in everything we buy these days though, and I am always good at working around these things by remaking them out of better material should anything ever go wrong with them. A fact of life these days is that products have too much plastic in them.
> I also want to address other things about this lathe though. Through research of it, I came across items of concern to me, and I just generally want to show off my new toy.
> $$$
> Let's start with price. If you buy the Jet version of this lathe, you will pay considerably more than Harbor Freight. That is to be expected. When I went and looked at the difference though, I was shocked.
> This lathe, on sale for $269.99 at Harbor Freight, was already in a reasonably price range for what it is. Then there are taxes added. However, we had a 25% off coupon. That brought the price down even considerably more. Then we added back a two year extended warranty to it. I have used Harbor Freight's warranties before and know for a fact that, if you pay for the warranty, they will take it back with no questions asked and give you a new one in the box. That brought the price back to about where it was. So for around $270, taxes included, we got the lathe and a two year extended warranty. I think that is a good deal.
> Now, the Jet lathe. I went to the Rockler site to price it. It is available online only in my area. I did not check twenty sites for the cheapest one. I just wanted to give a general idea. Here, on the Rockler site, before any possible taxes or shipping, the lathe sells for $919.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the tool rest. I did not even notice this feature when looking at this lathe, but it is nice. Both my other lathes have a bar that slides along the bed, then the extension bar swivels and the tool rest swivels. That works, but it limited. This one has more movement to it. I am sure this may be standard for flat bed lathes and no big deal to most experienced turners. This is my first flat bed lathe though, and for me, it is a whole world better than what I am used to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you who have never turned probably have no idea why a tool rest would be so important to me to even mention it. Well, besides just being more versatile, in addition to the swiveling head on this lathe, you can see just above the orientation I can put a bowl while working on the inside of it. This is a huge advantage to me. In the past, on the pipe bed lathes I've used, I eight had to walk around the back of the lathe. This put me on the opposite side of the lathe from the controls. That is something that has always made me uncomfortable. The other option was to lean over the bed, and work back towards me, into the downward turning bowl. This was not just uncomfortable to me, but downright painful if I done it for more than a couple of minutes at a time. This lathe's features will eliminate these issues all together. Once roughed out, I can just turn the whole headstock around towards me, adjust the tools rest accordingly, and be able to work much more comfortable than I have ever been able to while turning bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The single most complaint I have read in reviews of this lathe stemmed from this, the Reeve's variable speed system. I have read so many times, if you do not keep this oiled, it will fail, and the pulleys will literally fall apart in your hand. So I was a little apprehensive, when I pulled the cover off to oil it for the first time and to snap this photo, what horror I would find.
> Let me start by saying I would love to have electronic variable speed. There may come a point in time that electronic variable speed is obtainable to the common man. Most people cannot afford that luxury though. So, just having the ten speeds that this Reeve's system affords me is a blessing. On this machine, I will not have to remove a cover and change belts on a set of pulleys every time I change speeds.
> I have seen this system, and worked on this system, in many uses. It is very similar to the system on my old Total Shop. That motor now powered my shop made band saw and works flawlessly. The Total Shop was one of the cheaper made Shop Smith clones, and yes, it too was problematic if not oiled and maintained properly. Amazingly, I've also seen this system on variable speed PTO drives on tractors made decades ago.
> Yes, the pulleys do seem to be made out of less than premium material. However, the look to be of the same material I see on 99% of stock pulleys on any brand these days. It's pot metal. No it is not the strongest material known to man, but it has always, from my experience, worked well for pulleys as long as it's taken care of.
> The bottom line on this matter, to me, is this. This system involves moving parts that slide back and forth on a fixed shaft. Anything with moving parts, that move against unmoving parts, requires maintenance. If not, it will fail. That is a plain and simple truth no matter how you look at it. So, unless some other problem crops up in the future, this whole issue is a non-issue to me. For the torque the Reeve's system provide, in addition to the larger three quarter horse motor I have on this lathe compared to my others, I like this system.
> 
> So that's my new toy.
> You will see many more turning projects in my future, and I'll keep you all posted if any problems arise with the new lathe. I look for it to work very nicely for me.


Nice score, you will have to keep us updated on both of the "new" lathes. Hopefully, they both serve you well.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe Saga Continues*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been working on a project. In the meantime though, my newly found wood turning fascination is still in full swing. What you see here is the corner of my shop over behind the table saws where the lathe always sat. I use the word sat, as in past tense, because you may notice there are three lathes now.
> The one closest to the camera is the old one that I recently discovered had a bent shaft. I thought of carrying it out back and putting it out of it's misery, but I think it can still be of use.
> I am going to use it if I need to rough out something that is extremely out of balance. This will safe from having to worry about tearing up either of the other ones.
> Also I'm thinking, at the advice of an experienced wood turner I've been talking to, of setting up a polishing center for my turning projects that mounts between the centers on this lathe. The out of true condition the shaft presents will not effect a polishing set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, closest to the window, is the Ridgid lathe. It is actually very similar to the first lathe. Most of these pipe bed lathes made these days, besides some cosmetic and quality differences, are direct copies of an old Craftsman lathe I've seen from the eighties.
> The Ridgid lathe was given to me by a good friend. I talked about it in my last post. It is a good lathe. The shaft is made of thicker material, which makes me a little more confident. The accessory controls, such as handles for tightening up the tool rest for example, are better made. I believe it is going to be a decent lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The newest addition to the line up is the purpose of this post though. My lovely wife wanted to get me something nice for the upcoming Valentine's day, and this is what she got me. I have been wanting this lathe for some time and just have never been able to afford it. She has been putting in overtime at work and, while I don't think she will tell me that it was still hard on her to afford it, she used some of that extra cash to buy me the lathe I've been wanting.
> This lathe is from Harbor Freight. I can almost hear the groans from my computer screen when I typed that. I know Harbor Freight sells some pretty cheaply made stuff. If you do your research though, you can find some diamonds in the rough at that place. I believe this to be just one of those precious gems.
> For starters, I have read in numerous places that the lathe I have now is the exact same lathe as this one in the Jet lineup. The major differences between the two are the paint color, the supplied legs that are shipped with each of them, and the price. The color means nothing. I know for a fact that many items are made in the same factories, in the same assembly lines, and shot with different colors for different stores. I think most of us are aware of that. As for the legs, I don't know. From what I can see in the website photos, they look the same to me. It doesn't matter too much in my opinion though. For what I want, a machine that weighs as much as this one doesn't need heavier legs, and if it does eventually, I'll build a heavy stand for it.
> So let us start with the weight of the machine. This thing, as listed on the box when I got it back to my shop, weighs in at 187.85 pounds. I couldn't even get it out of the box, much less set it up. While my wife and I usually handle most things ourselves, I had to call for backup just to get this thing on it's stand.
> My only other complaint on this machine is the plastic used in some of the handles, such as the tool rest. That is usually expected in everything we buy these days though, and I am always good at working around these things by remaking them out of better material should anything ever go wrong with them. A fact of life these days is that products have too much plastic in them.
> I also want to address other things about this lathe though. Through research of it, I came across items of concern to me, and I just generally want to show off my new toy.
> $$$
> Let's start with price. If you buy the Jet version of this lathe, you will pay considerably more than Harbor Freight. That is to be expected. When I went and looked at the difference though, I was shocked.
> This lathe, on sale for $269.99 at Harbor Freight, was already in a reasonably price range for what it is. Then there are taxes added. However, we had a 25% off coupon. That brought the price down even considerably more. Then we added back a two year extended warranty to it. I have used Harbor Freight's warranties before and know for a fact that, if you pay for the warranty, they will take it back with no questions asked and give you a new one in the box. That brought the price back to about where it was. So for around $270, taxes included, we got the lathe and a two year extended warranty. I think that is a good deal.
> Now, the Jet lathe. I went to the Rockler site to price it. It is available online only in my area. I did not check twenty sites for the cheapest one. I just wanted to give a general idea. Here, on the Rockler site, before any possible taxes or shipping, the lathe sells for $919.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the tool rest. I did not even notice this feature when looking at this lathe, but it is nice. Both my other lathes have a bar that slides along the bed, then the extension bar swivels and the tool rest swivels. That works, but it limited. This one has more movement to it. I am sure this may be standard for flat bed lathes and no big deal to most experienced turners. This is my first flat bed lathe though, and for me, it is a whole world better than what I am used to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you who have never turned probably have no idea why a tool rest would be so important to me to even mention it. Well, besides just being more versatile, in addition to the swiveling head on this lathe, you can see just above the orientation I can put a bowl while working on the inside of it. This is a huge advantage to me. In the past, on the pipe bed lathes I've used, I eight had to walk around the back of the lathe. This put me on the opposite side of the lathe from the controls. That is something that has always made me uncomfortable. The other option was to lean over the bed, and work back towards me, into the downward turning bowl. This was not just uncomfortable to me, but downright painful if I done it for more than a couple of minutes at a time. This lathe's features will eliminate these issues all together. Once roughed out, I can just turn the whole headstock around towards me, adjust the tools rest accordingly, and be able to work much more comfortable than I have ever been able to while turning bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The single most complaint I have read in reviews of this lathe stemmed from this, the Reeve's variable speed system. I have read so many times, if you do not keep this oiled, it will fail, and the pulleys will literally fall apart in your hand. So I was a little apprehensive, when I pulled the cover off to oil it for the first time and to snap this photo, what horror I would find.
> Let me start by saying I would love to have electronic variable speed. There may come a point in time that electronic variable speed is obtainable to the common man. Most people cannot afford that luxury though. So, just having the ten speeds that this Reeve's system affords me is a blessing. On this machine, I will not have to remove a cover and change belts on a set of pulleys every time I change speeds.
> I have seen this system, and worked on this system, in many uses. It is very similar to the system on my old Total Shop. That motor now powered my shop made band saw and works flawlessly. The Total Shop was one of the cheaper made Shop Smith clones, and yes, it too was problematic if not oiled and maintained properly. Amazingly, I've also seen this system on variable speed PTO drives on tractors made decades ago.
> Yes, the pulleys do seem to be made out of less than premium material. However, the look to be of the same material I see on 99% of stock pulleys on any brand these days. It's pot metal. No it is not the strongest material known to man, but it has always, from my experience, worked well for pulleys as long as it's taken care of.
> The bottom line on this matter, to me, is this. This system involves moving parts that slide back and forth on a fixed shaft. Anything with moving parts, that move against unmoving parts, requires maintenance. If not, it will fail. That is a plain and simple truth no matter how you look at it. So, unless some other problem crops up in the future, this whole issue is a non-issue to me. For the torque the Reeve's system provide, in addition to the larger three quarter horse motor I have on this lathe compared to my others, I like this system.
> 
> So that's my new toy.
> You will see many more turning projects in my future, and I'll keep you all posted if any problems arise with the new lathe. I look for it to work very nicely for me.


I will do that Shane.

As the lathe turns started out as my attempt at being witty with one blog post. I have since changed it to a blog series so I can continue updating about my adventure into the world of wood turning.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*I Feel Like An Idiot*

I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can. 








Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.








One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.








The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.








After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes. 








Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face. 








Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
Then my new troubles began.
I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem. 
I tried different tools.
I tried different angles.
I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions. 
I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong. 
I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out. 
I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem. 
















This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning. 
At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.

As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right. 
Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


----------



## ShaneA

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


No advice from me, a total beginner here. I am sure if it was so easy, everyone would be doing it. I do like to little tool holder though. I need to make one like that.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


Thank you Shane.
That was actually the point of the title. It is something I run across often in scrolling, something I am very good at. I have people tell me, "but you make it look so easy" all the time. It is easy for me, but I've had several years of practice at making it look easy.
Eventually, I hope to make bowl turning look easy too!
If I can just figure out what makes me feel like an idiot today, then I can master that aspect before something else makes me feel the same way again. 
Feeling like an idiot is not meant to be a bad thing, just a step in the learning process.

The tool holder is easy to make. It is just two round disks of wood.
Mark them so when you stack them and unstack them you can put them back in the same place.
I stacked them together to drill four evenly spaced 1/4" holes all the way though for alignment dowels. I drilled 1 1/4" holes (or whatever you need for your tool handles) through one disk and half way through the other. You can space it however you wish. 
Turn the disks over and drill a 7/8" hole (or whatever size dowel you'll use for your center pole) all the way through on disk and halfway through the other.
Now seperate the two disks, keep the disks lined up where you marked them.
Glue four 1/4" dowels in the holes you drilled for the allignment dowels. 
I also shot some brad nails through the edges of the 1/4" dowels for extra support.
After they dry, slip the whole assembly over your center post and put the tools in. 
You can glue or secure in place.
I left mine free so I can spin it to get to tools without having to reach over the edges of other sharp tools.

I got the idea out of one of the many wood working magazines I read. I can't remember which one.


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


William that is wet endgrain it is a total to turn even with the
sharpest bowl gouge.

Jamie


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


No help here either William, except to say….....I've had the same results trying to turn a bowl…...certainly not as easy as it looks! I believe persistence will pay off though!


----------



## derosa

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


I've only turned two small little bowls, not having a 4 jaw chuck and relying on screwing the piece to a rather flimsy plate has discouraged trying more. On the one piece the wood was very tight grain and the inside cut easily and smoothly. The second was a red oak piece and it looked like I tried butchering the inside. Tool kept catching and tearing the wood. Both where endgrain but the coarser wood just wouldn't turn that well. Although maple can be hard it may be a good start for the smooth grain, same with cherry. Best I have for you since I'm not much of a turner myself and wish I had more practice as well.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


Jamie, it is very wet. I'm talking I could take a bath in the water coming off of it wet. 
So that means that even if green wood is good for learning to turn, it is not good to learn to hollow out bowls on?

Jeff, thank you. You know me though. I am persistant if nothing else. I will prevail, eventually.

Derosa, I do have a four jaw chuck. I hope that gives me a step up in getting going good. I bought me chuck when I really had no idea what I was going to do with it. When I got my old blue lathe though, I was able to also purchase (used, but like new condition) the four jaw chuck, two extra sets of jaws, one set of plates with the rubber feet (can't remember the proper name) and the screw chuck that can be mounted in it as well. I got all that for a hundred bucks. I can't remember the brand name right off hand, but I looked it up once and I think I got a helluva deal.

Thank ya'll for your words of wisdom. You may not realize it, but even someone telling me they've tried and had problems, like Derosa, helps me a lot. It shows me that I am not an idiot, but learning like others before me have done.

Hopefully, I'll have some master bowl turners chime in sooner or later.
I gotta get back to reading my book. 
Thanks guys.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


Well, you may not be a master turner, but you are a very capable page turner. I suggest you keep doing that, the answers & skills will come!!!

Good luck.


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


William it can be done but firstly end grain bowls have a whole tecnique
Easier to split down the centre and do the two halves
jamie


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


LOL…......grizz


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


Don't you laugh at me Grizz.

I am turning pages this afternoon Randy. And I'm learning too.

Jamie, I'm not sure what you mean by splitting it and doing two halfs.

I have been reading. I can't make it to the shop again today, but two things I have learned today. I should have already seen this, but who knew there was so much to learn that it would all get so tangled up in my head that I'm confused. Maybe these two things will helps some.
1. The grind for a gouge to cut spindles or end grain are dramatically different. According to the book I'm looking at, that long sharp grind on my gouges just won't do. I need a grind that is more along the lines of forty five degrees. Is this correct according to what others here are doing?
2. My scraper tools have been being used extremely wrong. I have been using them at or just above centerline. I tried other ways as well, but with even worse results. The key though, again according to what I'm reading, is that keeping the tool edge upward at all is wrong. I am actually supposed to pointing the tool slightly downward from the tool rest. This makes sense and scares the hell out of me all at the same time. It makes sense because of the scraping action and how that position would put it at a better angle to do so. It scares me because this also puts me into a position where, instead of the tool being knocked back towards me, it can be snatched from my hand if I'm not careful. 
Either way, in less my friends tell me some more wisdomly advice here today, I will have to try these techniques.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


Jamie, I think I recall that you give turning classes?
If so, I'm really wishing I could take your class right about now.
Some more personalized training would really come in handy right now.
I'm doing all this by reading, experimentation, and trial and error.
I have checked, but can't find but one bowl turner that I've been able to talk to. He, however, doesn't want to allow anyone like me to see him work. He says he's not interested in anyone learning from him and taking away any of his business. My desperate pleas that I have no interest in stepping on his toes has done no good.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


A few questions and answers William.

Q1. Did you cut from the outside rim towards the center? 
A1. On end grain you want to cut from the center towards the outside.

Q2. Was your cutting edge at center point, that is the tool, not the tool rest.? This can be hard to determine with the huge hole you drilled.

A2. The cutting edge should be centered.

Q3. Did you keep the bevel rubbing at all time?
A3. If the bevel isn't in contact with the wood, the workpiece will catch your tool straight off.

Q4. Did you start the cut with the handle of your tool angled toward the front of the lathe where you were standing and then swung outward in a horizontal arc while your cutting edge traveled from the center of the workpiece to the rim side nearest you?

A4. It should have.

I'm assuming you had a sharp gouge with a 30deg. bevel and that you had an appropriate lathe speed for the size of the bowl. These are the main points I can think of right now. I have turned many wet bowls and other vessels without any problem, but if you are using a small spindle gouge that could give you some problems with wetness, but not catches.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


Oops, I posted this before I looked for updates; others have said this stuff before me.

I'm not a pro but I have some suggestions.

Try using a scraper; it looks like you have a good sized one. Remember to have the tool rest higher than mid point to prevent catches. You can use it on the inside and outside. With light cuts, you might be able to reduce tear out (the fuzzy white areas), but I'm not sure about how green wood behaves.

Are you always rubbing the bevel and going downhill? If you are then you might have had trouble because of the angle of the gouge. Bowl gouges are more stubby and less likely to jab into the wood.

When you get around to using split logs, never *ever *use the spindle roughing gouge. It can break, it can break your tool rest, and worst of all, it can break *you*.

Thanks for sharing; the details are really interesting and the pictures are great. I'm looking forward to the next installment . . .


----------



## luv2learn

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


William, no advice here. I just started turning last week and I am happy to let you go first and become the problem solver .


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


Thank you for responding Stefang.

Question #1.
Yes, I did cut from the whole I made with the drill bit, in shallow passes, towards the outside of the bowl. I learned this from the book I am reading.

Question #2.
I think so at one point. I played around with this one, possibly a bit too much. I am not sure though. I agree with your assesment about the huge hole. Maybe I went a tad overboard with removing as much as possible with the forstner bit. It is hard to determine the exact center line with the axis with a 2 1/4" hole bored through the middle.

Question #3. 
Yes, and no. For some of the tools I tried, I did. For some though, like my largest gouge, with the tool rest at it's lowest possible point, it was still impossible to keep the bevel rubbing like you had told me. I immediately stopped using that tool though because of how badly it caught.

Question #4. 
No I did not, and maybe this was a major issue. I kept trying to start closest to me, swinging towards the hole I had drilled. The book I'm reading told me about making passes from the drilled hole, slowly working outwards, towards the outer edge of the bowl. It was not clear on which way to make the passes though.

.

By the way, I appreciate the advice you gave me about keeping that bevel rubbing. I still haven't gotten the end grain bowl turning part, but I could not believe the difference that one tip made in the way my tools cut on the outside. For spindle turning, that is making things so much easier. I was able to turn spindles before, but still often had catches. With the bevel rubbing technique you suggested, I turned the outside of this bowl without one single catch.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


Doe, thank you for the advice.

L2L, I'm glad to be the test subject.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


well maybe some of the clouds are clearing, maybe your getting some good advise and will work through this, learning a new part of wood working is a challenge and you will eventually get better and better, just dont try to rush this, rome wasnt built in a day…and you will not learn all of this as quickly as you might have wanted to, but im confidant that you will get it, and the day will come when you will be helping someone who is try to learn it just like you did, so now i continue to LOL… and wait for more of this interesting thread to come to light…thanks everyone for being such a good help for william and all of us wanting to learn…grizz


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


Thanks Grizz.
I will eventually get it. I have never found anything I couldn't do if I wanted to. As with most things though, I'm running into a simple problem. Reading is helpful. Until I learn to actually do it, and develop that feel for it, it all seems so confusing. 
When I get it though, if you and I aren't so old we have to eat from a tube, I still owe you a bowl.


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


William, The only question I have for ya is do you have a cup and catchers mask?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


I'm afriad not Marty, just a face shield.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


William, there are many youtube videos that use techniques which are unconventional that would only confuse the issue for you. The other methods also work, but it's best to learn the tried and true methods first so you will have a technique that will work for you every time on every endgrain piece. Here is a link to the conventional way endgrain hollowing is done and which you can trust.






Please note how he swings the handle from left to right while keeping his bevel rubbing. The bevel and your hand keeping the shaft in contact with tool rest keeps the gouge from bumping up and down and provides a smooth cut without catching.

One last point. As you get deeper you will have to raise your cutting edge higher on the left wall of the bowl as you are cutting toward an exit. Not a lot higher, just a little. You will have to get a feel for this bit, so don't worry about it too much. I just think you should be aware of it.

Keep in mind that with an side grain bowl it's the opposite. You start the cut to the left of center moving your handle in a horizontal arc from right to left toward you. Then make the 2nd cut beginning a little further to the left of the hole and repeating until you get to the rim thickness you want. To recap: Cut a divot in the middle and keep enlarging it until you are at the rim. I think side grain bowls are a little easier, because the wood is smoother and acts more like when you are spindle turning.

Good luck and happy turning!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


Thanks Stefang.
I'm going to watch it right now.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


I learned something very important from that video Stefang.
And like you said, I've been doing something very wrong according to something I seen on a different video, and I believe the source of my catching problem. I am not rolling the gouge sideways as he does in that video. I have been trying to cut much like I would on a spindle. This is engaging the wings of the tool, and catching, just like he warns about in the video.

I subscribed to his youtube channel so I can now go and watch more of his videos.

I do have another question that is not answered in the video though. 
I have been trying to do this at the slowest speed on my lathe. I have noticed that every thing I see in videos, the turner seems to always have their work spinning at very high speeds. Is it better for cutting end grain to slow the lathe down for a beginner such as myself? Or would speeding it up make things easier? I just wondered if the slow speed could make things worse or better?


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


I found I got better results faster; I get more catches when it's slower. It depends on the size of the bowl; max I've ever done is about 6 inches.


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


There are 2 broad categories of woodturning: spindle turning and face turning. Spindle turning is generally done with the wood grain parallel to the lathe's rotation, and face turning is done with the wood grain perpendicular to the lathe's rotation. What people are talking about with bowls is that they're usually face work, so the grain is perpendicular to the lathe's rotation. If you take a log, split it in half down the middle, then the blank you'll want to use to turn a bowl is cut from one side, with the bottom of the blank being the part near the pith of the log and the top the part near the bark. That's how you get people making natural edge bowls. They just leave the bark on.

This is a cool tutorial on prepping a bowl blank from green wood:

http://www.customwooddesign.com/turninggreenwood-1.html

Stefang gave you some great tips, and Bob Hamilton is a good turner to watch on YouTube. I also like to watch Carl Jacobson (http://www.youtube.com/user/haydenHD), Sam Anglelo (http://www.youtube.com/user/WYOMINGWOODTURNER), Alan Stratton (http://www.youtube.com/user/AsWoodTurns), Lyle Jamieson (http://www.youtube.com/user/JamiesonLyle) and Jake Gevorgian (http://www.youtube.com/user/paloarteinc). They're all pretty traditional woodturners.

Catches are one of the suckier parts of woodturning. I find that I do get them a bit more at lower speeds. Try turning your lathe up until it just starts to vibrate and wobble, then back it off a bit. As a general rule of thumb, higher speeds for smaller diameter turnings and lower speeds for larger diameter turnings.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


I have a 3 speed lathe, 450, 1200 and 2000. I normally rough out the workplace at 450 and then finish at 1200. I rarely use 2000, but it's great for very small diameter stuff. If you think about the old time turners using a pole lathe at very slow speeds that might tell you that the need for very high speeds isn't really necessary. You also have to remember that when you start turning larger diameter bowls that the outside edge is going a lot faster than the middle.

I'm sorry for not mentioning about rolling the gouge as cut. I thought about after I went to bed. A good general rule is to keep the flute of your gouge always pointed in the direct of the cut for spindle and bowl turning.

Once you get these basic things down, you are pretty well on your way and you will pick up info as you go. I suggest that you follow the advice from Youtube videos with caution. There are so many turners making videos and posing as experts or competent who really don't know what they are doing. On the other hand there are many on there who are competent and know how to instruct too.


----------



## RVroman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


"No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem."

This is the statement that really stood out to me. Be sure you are not using a roughing gouge, this is just a disaster waiting to happen. A spindle gouge can work, and if that is what you are using then I would also bet your reference to the wings catching has to do with not rolling the tool. (Riding the bevel was one of my first thoughts, but that has been addressed)

Also, as others have mentioned, working with end grain is a bit trickier than face grain. All of those "straws" can be a bugger. I would recommend starting with standard bowl blanks until you are comfortable, then tackle end grain turning.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


Thank you all for your help.
I will b e posting today's entry in a moment. I hope you all see it so you can see my progress.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


Practice William, and I know you. You don't give up.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


I'm trying Dave.
I'll get there.
If you'll look at today's post, I did make progress.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *I Feel Like An Idiot*
> 
> I've had the flu and haven't felt up to doing too much. I'm been puttering around though and doind what I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday, I pulled out my grinder and oil stones. It was something I could do sitting down. So I got some of my lathe tools sharpened up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons had brought me a small pile of firewood. It was still pretty wet, but I remembered someone telling me green wood was a good idea to start with for practice. So, today, I pulled out my electric chain saw and chopped off a piece large enough for a small bow. After plenty of reading, and plenty of helpful advice from fellow Lumberjocks, and some new toys thanks to my friend Eddie and my wife, I was ready to crawl back on that horse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I done was chucked it up in the old lathe, the one with the bent shaft. As long as I'm still learning, I figured this would be a better idea. I can rough things out on this old lathe. That will get things almost balanced well before putting it on the good lathes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After it was balanced good, I put it on the Ridgid lathe that Eddie had given me. I worked with it here until I was ready to chop off the excess amount I did not need. I intentionally started with more wood than I would possibly need, in case there was any mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this point, everything was going perfectly. The chips were flying and there was a smile on my face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I mounted this onto the new lathe that my wife got me. Between the Ridgid lathe, and this new lathe, and both of them running true, things went so much smoother than my past experiences. The piece chucked into my four jaw chuck and ran perfectly true. There was no issues.
> Then my new troubles began.
> I have done a lot of reading lately. I thought I knew exactly what I needed to do. Apparantly I was wrong. No matter what I did, had so many, and with such severety, catches with the tools, that I wound up having to stop before I finished and make the decision to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong before I mess around and hurt myself.
> No, I do not have a "proper" bowl gouge. I know that is an issue, but I can't believe that it the only problem.
> I tried different tools.
> I tried different angles.
> I tried adjusting to tool rest to different positions.
> I spent close to three of the most frustrating hours of my life trying to figure out what exactly I am doing wrong as compared to the information I've read and the tons of video I have now watched on bowl turning. As determined as I am though, I am not quite sure at this moment what exactly I'm doing wrong.
> I do know that the catches I'm getting are severe enough to do damage, either to the mcahine, or myself. Also, I think this is how I bent the shaft on the first lathe. Overall, I am fearful at this point to continue until I figure this out.
> I understand that a proper bowl gouge will become something I just can't continue without. At this time though, I can't believe that the inability to afford an expensive tool at this time is the only problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how far I got into the inside of the bowl before I decided it was best for me to stop. I followed the advice I read in one of the books I've been in, and used a forstner bit to remove a lot of the center before beginning.
> At this time, I can turn spindles and such, and some real nice bowl blanks. I cannot seem to get face turning, or the interior of bowls, right. So I left this piece chucked into the lathe for now, as a daily reminder that I need to try and learn some more.
> 
> As for the title of this entry, it is how I feel at the moment. This is now the first time I've felt this way, and probably won't be the last. It is a feeling I am sure some others feel when you try something that you've seen others make look so easy, and you just can't seem to get it right.
> Oh, well, back to the drawing board. In other words, time to learn some more.


I am just catching up. I spent all weekend in the shop. I am about a hundred posts behind.
Stupid enterwebz


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*This Idiot Can Learn*









In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.

Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments. 
I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.

First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time. 
Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.








I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.

Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much. 








There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.

I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.

Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.

I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
















It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far. 
No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly. 
I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment. 
For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
Thank you again Stefang.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks???

A very fetching start! No bones about it!!!

Congrats on learning a new trick!!!


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


William my hat off to you for your perseverance
You have cracked it, there will be no holding you
back now.
I think your first bowl came out great, don't change it
Sit it in front of you for inspiration

Jamie


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


That didn't take long…..good for the learnin' and hope you're feeling better soon…..


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


I agree with Jamie. Way to go!


----------



## mitch48

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Good for you! Isn't it nice to have a thought turn into a reality? Keep up the Beginner's Mind!


----------



## RVroman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Glad to hear it was such a productive day, and it sounds like great strides were made. Not only is your cutting going to be easier with this orientation, but you end product as well. Also glad to hear you are getting bowl gouges, like anything else, you can force the wrong tool to do a job, but the results (and safety) are often compromised.

Also, I just went back through all your blogs (I did not find them until #4) and as far as the HF lathe goes…. I had one of those for about 5 years and used it HEAVILY and it was still working great the day I sold it. The only reason I parted with it is that I outgrew it and it would not do some of the things I now want to do. But as an entry level lathe you cannot go wrong, especially for the price. Definitely heed the warnings about keeping the reeves drive lubricated though or they will stop sliding.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Thank you all.

Jamie, the way I always look at a challenge in woodworking is this. Am I going to allow a chunk of wood to beat me? 
Besides, I can't remember ever giving up in my life. Thank you for your help and words of confidence.

Jeff, thank you. I went to the doctor today. He gave me three different medicines and says I'll be feeling better in a few days. Let's hope so.

Thank you Doe.

Mitch, that beginner's mind is something that often is of essence. Until I decided to back off a notch and start at the beginning, my progress had stopped. I often jump into things too quickly. That's the way one learns to swim I always so though, jump in the deep end.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Thank you Robert.
And I'm glad to hear someone else who is happy with that lathe. I was warned about it, but I think it is a bargain. I weighed a lot before deciding on that one. Of course, I'd love to have a better (read more expensive) lathe, but like you, think this one will get me in the race and is a good deal for the money.


----------



## RVroman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


"I'd love to have a better (read more expensive) lathe,"

I think that is something that never stops, currently my "big lathe' is the Jet 1642, but I still drool over the next step up, and have recently added a mini.

However, as I am sure you are finding, the turning vortex is deep. There is always some other accessory out there, and before you know it the lathe becomes the cheapest investment when you add everything else up. One thing I would say is really evaluate the need for those "fancy things". I have more than one accessory that I either convinced myself, or was convinced by someone, I needed, and in reality it just sits.

Above all though, have fun!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Thanks for the advice Robert.
I have already noticed that, because of limited budget, I need to consider my options carefully.
The bowl gouges for example, I'm ordering a three piece set from Penn State Industries. I figure they'll do me good for a good long time. I considered some real nice ones, but I just couldn't justify the price over what the ones I ordered sell for, when they both get good reviews from customers.
Also, I'm absorbing subject as much as I can about making certain things myself. If you've seen much of my work, you'll probably already guess that this would probably one day lead to me actually building a lathe with more capacity than I can afford to buy. That's what I done about my band saw problem.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


William looks like your getting the hang of those lathes , but i know you and you would master em . sooner r later cant keep a good man down


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Thank Eddie.
Couldn't have done it without you on this one.
The lathe you gave me works beautifully for roughing out. 
I hope you're feeling better.
I'm sick myself, but Dave and I wanna make it over as soon as we can.


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


You can lead the old dog to the bowl, but you can't make him drink from it…..


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Good job! Definite improvement. Keep it up!


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


now just wait a minute here william, i didnt get thanked at all anywhere in here…hey, i added the LOL…isnt that worth something, some part of your progress here…come on now…the clown always get a little credit….lol…so ok, my LOL didnt really have much to do with your new found turning skills…but….......just sayin…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Marty, but you can kick him over face first into the bowl of water, so in choking, he'll inevitably swallow some of it.

Rich, thanks. It doesn't look like much, but yes, it is a whole world's worth better than what I was doing yesterday.

Grizz, thank you for being you.
How's that?


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


ok william, now i feel much better…lol, im really glad to see you get more and more proficient at this and im going to enjoy seeing you progress to being a really good bowl turner…have fun and enjoy the journey…thats what counts..


----------



## jap

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


keep it up!


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


I read yesterday's blog earlier this morning, happy to see this one. Looks like you were able to learn a lot overnight. I will have to take a look at those videos as bowl turning is something I have yet to tackle myself. 
That first one looks good to me, can't wait to see the next ones.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Grizz, Jap, and Chris, thank you all.
All the support is very encouraging.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Your making good progress William. The easiest blank to prepare is a piece of dry plank about 3 to 3-1/2".

1. Cut the length to equal the width, flatten one side and remove the corners with your band saw or cut it round if you want.

2. Mount a faceplate on the flat side with the screw holes located in the area which will eventually be turned out after you reverse the bowl.

3. Turn the bottom of the bowl and the outside shape and then prepare a mortise or tenon the right size to fit your chuck.

4. Reverse the bowl and chuck it up.

5. Face off the front to make sure the top is level. A bowl gouge is best for this, but for now you could just put the tool rest across the front and use a flat scraper.

6. There are different ways to approach the hollowing. Some like to drill a smallish center hole before they begin. This is only to get the depth correct and to eliminate the small nub that results otherwise. I would drill the hole a little shore of your total depth just to give some extra for smoothing and sanding.

7. You can start your turning from near the edge or start near center and work your way out. I prefer to start near center, as it seems easier to me.

8. After reaching proper depth and wall thickness (check wall thickness with calipers as you progress, buy or make these).

9. If you need further smoothing, this can be done with a round nosed scraper with a bevel of about 80deg. The shaft should be above the centerline and the cutting edge at the centerline. Cut from the outside to the center using the middle of the cutting edge. You can't ride the bevel so you have to take very light whispery cuts. The bowl should be running very smooth at this point, so it isn't too hard to keep your scraper from catching.

I don't know if you need the above info, But I thought it might be helpful as complete turning routine. Keep in mind that side grain turning isn't really all side grain. They are actually 1/2 endgrain, so a perfectly smooth cut is only obtainable with a good sharp edge and good technique. It's therefore a good idea to resharpen before your last passes and take very light cuts until you are satisfied that you can't improve it further. Sharpening should be done on the bench grinder and it only takes a few seconds. The exception is your skew chisel which also requires honing, but which normally isn't used for bowls anyway.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Thank you for all your help Mike.
I had gotten most of what you posted above, but reminders never hurt a thing. Until I master all these techniques, drilling it into my head over and over would actually be a good thing. Hell, maybe I need to print it out and post it somewhere near the tool rest. 
My problem now is finding something around my shop that is dry, and large enough. I have plenty of thin material of size, but not thick enough. I thought I had some around somewhere around three to four inches thick. If I can't find it in the next day or so, I'm going to follow the advice of Mr. Hamilton and glue up some cheap stock to practice on. 
I'm not sure when I will get to all that though. I went to the doctor yesterday. I've been sick for several days now. I have medicine to take now, and I think it is the medicine that is making my head so foggy. I am lightheaded this morning though and do not feel safe to turn on anything moving. If I feel better later today, I may get over there and muddle around a bit. If not, I may be shut down now for a few days.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Sorry to hear that you are not feeling too well William. I've been out of the shop for the same reason for a couple of days myself. There's no point in working when you are not well enough to enjoy it. My son has some serious health problems starting with a mangled back surgery so I have some understanding of your situation. He has been struggling with it for many years now and he can't work. It's a little up and down, but mostly down. I outfitted a full woodworking shop at his place in Sweden last summer with a lathe, mitersaw, scrollsaw, bandsaw and other tools, but I don't think he has used it even once since we went back home.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


I wish you could get him in the shop Mike.
With my back issues, wood work is what keeps me getting out of bed each morning. I know the up and down, mostly down situation, but if we let it keep us down, it'll kill us.
I gave up for a long time. I was tired of living in pain each and every day. To survive though, I now pull myself through. I have to. It is hard, but it's better than the alternative.
Myself, I have good days and bad too. On good days I am in pain, but I can at least walk. On bad days, I can walk from my wheel chair and into the rest room, but that's about it. From time to time though, I go through the worst spells, where I don't leave the house for a week at a time. During those time, I get very depressed. 
Tell you son that you know someone who has had his back broke in six places. I am always ready to talk and do my best to support someone in similar situations. He can't listen to the doctors. He has to let them lead him in the right direction, but I'm living proof that only the person in the situation can determine their fate. If I listened to my doctors, I'd confine myself to a whell chair in fear of falling and doing myself further harm.
I can always be reached through my either of my emails at:
[email protected]
[email protected]
I check them both every evening if he wishes to correspond back and forth.


----------



## NateMeadows

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


William,

It it great to see you progress! I am so sorry you are hurting. I don't know exactly were you are coming from but as you know I can sympathize. Hang in there, it will get better…then worse…then better…then worse…then better…you know, such is the tides of life with our conditions.

Like you said, having woodworking really helps. Keep up the great work.You are getting it!

Nate


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Thanks for offering your support William. I will forward your message to him. I am hoping to at least get him into the shop during our visit next summer. By the way, he is a fantastic artist. If I could get him into scrollsawing he could easily design his own projects, and perhaps share those designs.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Good to see you Nate.
Thank you for your supporting words. 
Nate is another just like me.
He has all kinds of issues, but wood working is a passion that keeps us getting out of bed in the mornings.

Mike, scrolling is a great past time for anyone with pain issues. With the right projects, you can do them sitting or standing. I was confined to the house once for a month and even had my older sons bring one of my scroll saws to our living room. I cut scrolled portraits for a month while sitting in a chair in out living room. It required my family's help to prepare wood and patterns for me to cut, but it kept my sanity during that time. I'm sure he has loved ones that will help him.

Incidentally, my doctors do say that one day I will lose the abilty to walk again. Of course, they said I'd never walk again anyway. We'll see. The point is though, I have already made up my mind that, if and when, that day comes, I'm still going to keep doing my scroll work, and possibly other things too, like the wood turning. I've known others that do it from a wheel chair. 
I've already talked with numerous people who promise, if that day comes, to come help myself and my sons, lower all my tables and work stations down to where I can get to them with a wheel chair.
Last time I was in a wheel chair, I did nothing. I wound up with diabetes (under control now), weight issues, high blood pressure, two heart attacks, and dang near died on several occasions. I'm determined that if I ever have to go through that again, it's going to be better this time. I'm not going to allow my body to get that bad again.

As I said before though, I am living proof. The hell with those doctors. A man can come back from the brink. It take determination though, and most importantly, loved ones to lean on for support.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


I admire your strength of character William and I totally agree with your attitude towards your situation. I hope your words will inspire him. Thank you.


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


One thing of Bob Hamilton's you should check out, William, is his bowl from a board stuff. Very ingenious way to get a blank to make a bowl from.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Thanks Rich. 
As I'm able, I'm watching all of his stuff that I can. I'll be sure to check that out.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


Oh crap he is doing live edge tree stumps. 
Yall start duckin


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


I'll have you know SuperElectricDave, that I would never do anything dangerous.
Not today anyway.

Seriously though.
Several good people here have helped me see the error of my ways. 
I am backing up and learning basics at this time before diving off head first anymore.
That live edge stump was just for sake of test a technique I watched over and over in videos.
I do wish to do live edge turnings one day.
For now though, I think I just need to learn how to do small simple bowls first.
The rest will come in time.

Never thought you'd hear me talking patience, learning, safety, and taking it slow, didja?


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


someone went into mississippi and kidnapped william day, who is this man…......


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


*INCOMING..*..........


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


William,
YOU would be a good mentor, someone for me to follow in their footsteps!!!{P_)(*NBHJJGF)&^%
SORRY, I couldn't keep a straight keyboard, typing that one!!!


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


* I would never do anything dangerous.*
funny
really
funny


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


I do think everything is safe.
Of course, I have a hard head.
Proof is the cedar bowl that my wife has. 
It has a crack in it where it flew off the lathe and hit my head.
Everyone else, hard hat required.

It's all fun and games,
Until the cops or the ambulance has to be called.

Anyway, since you guys think I'm so unsafe,
Maybe I need my own "safety Dan"?


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *This Idiot Can Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, you see yesterday's results. That was yesterday though. This is a new day. If you read yesterday's blog entry, and then read this one, you'll understand the idea behind the title of this one.
> 
> Stefang, I want to thank you for pointing me to Bob Hamilton's videos. They were a huge help. I've read and watched a lot of videos, and you are correct, there are so many techniques shown all over the place that it's hard to know right from wrong. I quickly learned to trust Mr. Hamilton's advice though from his honesty, and good way of explaining things.
> I stayed up late last night, actually much too late, watching Mr. Hamilton's videos and some of the other people's videos that he had "liked". I learned a lot. Some things you can read. You can watch videos. There are things though that you never know you're doing wrong until someone finds a way for you to learn the proper way. That's what happened last night. I had one of those eureka moments.
> I don't know if it was Mr. Hamilton, or one of his other "liked" videos, but someone had glued a pencil to the wings above the flute on their gouge. This allowed me to see exactly the cutting position of their tool as they worked. It was like a light went off and I knew exactly what I had done wrong. Well, I knew one of the most major things I'd done wrong anyway.
> 
> First things first is, I want to thank every single person who has tried helping me. Bearpie, Kreegan, Stefang, and Jamie Speirs have all been especially helpful to me. Those videos though, that was what made it all come together, for this problem anyway.
> I decided that I was going about bowls all wrong. Don't ask me why I was insisting on doing a bowl by cutting end grain. I guess it just made sense to me at the time, round log, round bowl. I am leaving the end grain behind for now. While I do thing it is a useful skill that I will learn more of dow the road, I feel it is out of my skill range at this point in time.
> Before doing so though, I just had to find out if I had learned anything from those videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much you can see in this photo, but I went about two inches deep in the end grain. I did so without a single catch. It went smoothly. This wasn't much, but extremely satisfactory to me. I was not going any deeper. Something else I learned from all the videos I watched last night was that someone finally answered a serious question for me. I learned the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge besides just the cut and flute, and the dangers of going to deeply using spindle gouge to hollow out a bowl. However, I found some reasonably priced bowl gouges and am going to get me some.
> 
> Now, before I go any further, let me explain something. I do not feel very well today. I did not even attempt to make a bowl today. I did just try to learn some techniques based on the videos Stefang recommended to me. I had a doctor appointment this morning. As soon as I made it back to the shop though, I used that same log I was chopping up yesterday and sliced off another piece.
> Then I realized something. The blades I have for my bandsaw were not going to be good at all for cutting this wet wood. I've tried before with disaserous results. It is amazing how quickly green wood can ruin the wrong blade on a band saw. Additionally, there was no way I was going to ruin that thrity dollar blade presently on there trying to. So, check off one more thing I need to get if I am going to really get into this bowl turning thing very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was also no way I was going to allow those facts to stop me from practicing what I thought I'd learned.
> 
> I watched a video a long time ago about, why you never mount wood into a lathe in this orientation. I think that has been part of my hesitation. I decided to go for it though. I felt that I could see how things went and go from there. I wore a face sheild, stayed out of the line of fire of the chunk of wood, and flipped the lathe on. My fears of wood grain running this way quickly disippated. Yes, I resepct it, but I am no longer scared to death of it.
> Now, some of you may see this chunk of log, with it's round bottom, mounted like this with a true beginner messing with it and aske if I am completely nuts.
> 
> Well, yes. Yes I am. However, stating the obvious at this point does nothing to help this conversation.
> 
> I had no intention of turning this completely into a bowl. As I stated before, this was just an exercise in technique. So I chunked it up on a screw chuck and only turned it enough to get it well balanced. Then I turned it around, exposing the clean side of it, and screwed it back onto the screw chuck again, so I could see what, if anything I had learned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may not seem like much to some, but this was a *HUGE* accomplishment for me. I have struggled for a while to get this far.
> No, it does not look great, but I will get there with practice. I wasn't expecting to all of a sudden be an expert bowl turner. I simply wished to see if I could make a dent into hollowing out this bowl without things getting crazy enough to make me stop again. It was a complete success. I did have a couple of catches on this one when I tried to take too much of a bite at one time. I backed off and took smaller passes though and things went amazingly smoothly.
> I feel today like I may still be an idiot, but an idiot that is learning something at least. And if I stick with it and learn enough, maybe one day I can help someone else like others have helped me. Thank you all. I hope you're still there when I have my next duh moment.
> For anyone who may be having trouble with turning, go watch some of Mr. Hamilton's videos. Stefang, one of our fellow Lumberjocks, recommended them to me, and they were a huge help.
> Thank you again Stefang.


I'll loan you Safety Cat


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Lessons Learned In Bowl Turning*

Learning to turn bowls is becoming quite an adventure. It seems sometimes that the more I learn, the more I have to learn. It is a fun adventure though, so I think I'll keep at it for a long time to come. Actually, the amount of knowledge and skill required I think is what makes turning even more interesting to me. A lot of wood working skills come easy to me. Sometimes, it seems they come too easy and there just isn't much of a challenge to it. Therefore, something like turning, that challenges me every step of the way, holds my interest much better. It has gotten to where some other skills I rely on for working wood become a bore. They are just going through the motions. Each time I turn on that lathe though I feel a sense of excitement of what I might learn today.








I started out trying to turn bowls in end grain. I don't know why. Looking back on it, I think it just made more sense to me. It seemed to me, round tree, round bowl. It isn't that simple though. Through research and the help of some good friends guiding me towards some good video where I could see proper techniques, I've come a long way since turning the bowl in this photo. 
Along the way, I learned that there is a place for end grain turning. However, after turning that end grain, I placed it on my work bench as a reminder of why you don't turn deep bowl in green end grain wood. All that cracking wood would just never do.








This next bowl was never meant to be complete. It was just a practice piece to test some of what I'd been learning. Looking at it on my bench now though, I sort of wish I had turned a tenon on the bottom of it so it would be easier to go back and actually finish it.








It was along this same time that I started realizing the dangers of using spindle gouges for bowl turning. The gouge on top of this photo is a spindle gouge. The one on bottom is a bowl gouge. That's a lot of different in tool size. I found out it is more than just size though. Tool weight and balance, and strength, makes the bowl gouge just handle better for the over reaching past the tool rest that you do with bowl turning. 








In this photo, you see the bowl gouges I ordered. These are Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State Industries. You can order these gouges here if you'd like. Through my inexperience, these seem to be some great tools here, and if you research the prices of bowl gouges around the internet, they are also very reasonably priced.
















My next trial in bowl turning turned into another disaster, but another lesson. I learned to start researching woods that I try to turn with. This is a hunk chopped off a cypress log. I tried turning it after mounting it with an reverse tenon. I'm not sure if that's the proper terminology, but I turned a recess in the bottom, reversed it, and then tried mounting it on my chuck with the jaws pushing outwards into that recess. I couldn't then understand why, not long after I started hogging the material out of the inside of the bowl, it slung off the lathe at high speed. 
I done what I've started doing anytime I don't understand something turning related. I stopped and got on the internet to try and learn. I learned that cypress is not a good wood to be turning bowls with anyway.
















That brings me to my latest bowl, and my first successful bowl. I know it doesn't look like much, but it is a huge accomplishment for me.
The bowl is only two inches deep. It started out as about a five inch deep bowl. I messed it up several times though, and when I did, would part off the top of the mistake and keep going. This was after all supposed to be a learning exercise. I'm afraid I won't be using the bowl. It is still green and I turned it thin, as a finished bowl, just for practice sake. In the future, I need to leave them thicker, unfinished, to be able to turn them down to a finished state after they've dried. That is for the future though. For, now, I'm happy enough turning green finished bowls that I know won't be usable just for the experience. I'll have usable bowls soon enough that I'll look back on these and laugh at them.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Lessons Learned In Bowl Turning*
> 
> Learning to turn bowls is becoming quite an adventure. It seems sometimes that the more I learn, the more I have to learn. It is a fun adventure though, so I think I'll keep at it for a long time to come. Actually, the amount of knowledge and skill required I think is what makes turning even more interesting to me. A lot of wood working skills come easy to me. Sometimes, it seems they come too easy and there just isn't much of a challenge to it. Therefore, something like turning, that challenges me every step of the way, holds my interest much better. It has gotten to where some other skills I rely on for working wood become a bore. They are just going through the motions. Each time I turn on that lathe though I feel a sense of excitement of what I might learn today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out trying to turn bowls in end grain. I don't know why. Looking back on it, I think it just made more sense to me. It seemed to me, round tree, round bowl. It isn't that simple though. Through research and the help of some good friends guiding me towards some good video where I could see proper techniques, I've come a long way since turning the bowl in this photo.
> Along the way, I learned that there is a place for end grain turning. However, after turning that end grain, I placed it on my work bench as a reminder of why you don't turn deep bowl in green end grain wood. All that cracking wood would just never do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next bowl was never meant to be complete. It was just a practice piece to test some of what I'd been learning. Looking at it on my bench now though, I sort of wish I had turned a tenon on the bottom of it so it would be easier to go back and actually finish it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was along this same time that I started realizing the dangers of using spindle gouges for bowl turning. The gouge on top of this photo is a spindle gouge. The one on bottom is a bowl gouge. That's a lot of different in tool size. I found out it is more than just size though. Tool weight and balance, and strength, makes the bowl gouge just handle better for the over reaching past the tool rest that you do with bowl turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, you see the bowl gouges I ordered. These are Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State Industries. You can order these gouges here if you'd like. Through my inexperience, these seem to be some great tools here, and if you research the prices of bowl gouges around the internet, they are also very reasonably priced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next trial in bowl turning turned into another disaster, but another lesson. I learned to start researching woods that I try to turn with. This is a hunk chopped off a cypress log. I tried turning it after mounting it with an reverse tenon. I'm not sure if that's the proper terminology, but I turned a recess in the bottom, reversed it, and then tried mounting it on my chuck with the jaws pushing outwards into that recess. I couldn't then understand why, not long after I started hogging the material out of the inside of the bowl, it slung off the lathe at high speed.
> I done what I've started doing anytime I don't understand something turning related. I stopped and got on the internet to try and learn. I learned that cypress is not a good wood to be turning bowls with anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to my latest bowl, and my first successful bowl. I know it doesn't look like much, but it is a huge accomplishment for me.
> The bowl is only two inches deep. It started out as about a five inch deep bowl. I messed it up several times though, and when I did, would part off the top of the mistake and keep going. This was after all supposed to be a learning exercise. I'm afraid I won't be using the bowl. It is still green and I turned it thin, as a finished bowl, just for practice sake. In the future, I need to leave them thicker, unfinished, to be able to turn them down to a finished state after they've dried. That is for the future though. For, now, I'm happy enough turning green finished bowls that I know won't be usable just for the experience. I'll have usable bowls soon enough that I'll look back on these and laugh at them.


I think you've already become a dynamite bowl-turner.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Lessons Learned In Bowl Turning*
> 
> Learning to turn bowls is becoming quite an adventure. It seems sometimes that the more I learn, the more I have to learn. It is a fun adventure though, so I think I'll keep at it for a long time to come. Actually, the amount of knowledge and skill required I think is what makes turning even more interesting to me. A lot of wood working skills come easy to me. Sometimes, it seems they come too easy and there just isn't much of a challenge to it. Therefore, something like turning, that challenges me every step of the way, holds my interest much better. It has gotten to where some other skills I rely on for working wood become a bore. They are just going through the motions. Each time I turn on that lathe though I feel a sense of excitement of what I might learn today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out trying to turn bowls in end grain. I don't know why. Looking back on it, I think it just made more sense to me. It seemed to me, round tree, round bowl. It isn't that simple though. Through research and the help of some good friends guiding me towards some good video where I could see proper techniques, I've come a long way since turning the bowl in this photo.
> Along the way, I learned that there is a place for end grain turning. However, after turning that end grain, I placed it on my work bench as a reminder of why you don't turn deep bowl in green end grain wood. All that cracking wood would just never do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next bowl was never meant to be complete. It was just a practice piece to test some of what I'd been learning. Looking at it on my bench now though, I sort of wish I had turned a tenon on the bottom of it so it would be easier to go back and actually finish it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was along this same time that I started realizing the dangers of using spindle gouges for bowl turning. The gouge on top of this photo is a spindle gouge. The one on bottom is a bowl gouge. That's a lot of different in tool size. I found out it is more than just size though. Tool weight and balance, and strength, makes the bowl gouge just handle better for the over reaching past the tool rest that you do with bowl turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, you see the bowl gouges I ordered. These are Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State Industries. You can order these gouges here if you'd like. Through my inexperience, these seem to be some great tools here, and if you research the prices of bowl gouges around the internet, they are also very reasonably priced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next trial in bowl turning turned into another disaster, but another lesson. I learned to start researching woods that I try to turn with. This is a hunk chopped off a cypress log. I tried turning it after mounting it with an reverse tenon. I'm not sure if that's the proper terminology, but I turned a recess in the bottom, reversed it, and then tried mounting it on my chuck with the jaws pushing outwards into that recess. I couldn't then understand why, not long after I started hogging the material out of the inside of the bowl, it slung off the lathe at high speed.
> I done what I've started doing anytime I don't understand something turning related. I stopped and got on the internet to try and learn. I learned that cypress is not a good wood to be turning bowls with anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to my latest bowl, and my first successful bowl. I know it doesn't look like much, but it is a huge accomplishment for me.
> The bowl is only two inches deep. It started out as about a five inch deep bowl. I messed it up several times though, and when I did, would part off the top of the mistake and keep going. This was after all supposed to be a learning exercise. I'm afraid I won't be using the bowl. It is still green and I turned it thin, as a finished bowl, just for practice sake. In the future, I need to leave them thicker, unfinished, to be able to turn them down to a finished state after they've dried. That is for the future though. For, now, I'm happy enough turning green finished bowls that I know won't be usable just for the experience. I'll have usable bowls soon enough that I'll look back on these and laugh at them.


Great description of your learning process! I was able to learn as well. Thank you!!!

Reading about your journey and the enthusiam you have for it, makes me want to get my lathe set up ASAP!!! It will have to wait though, as I've a few more pressing shop matters to deal with. Namely, getting it more organized, but also figuring out where the lathe will go! Plua I need to order/purchase turning tools and paraphernalia.

I'm glad you are able to get into the shop!!! Keep up the learning & rambling, as I look forward to following along & absorbing a little knowledge through osmosis!


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Lessons Learned In Bowl Turning*
> 
> Learning to turn bowls is becoming quite an adventure. It seems sometimes that the more I learn, the more I have to learn. It is a fun adventure though, so I think I'll keep at it for a long time to come. Actually, the amount of knowledge and skill required I think is what makes turning even more interesting to me. A lot of wood working skills come easy to me. Sometimes, it seems they come too easy and there just isn't much of a challenge to it. Therefore, something like turning, that challenges me every step of the way, holds my interest much better. It has gotten to where some other skills I rely on for working wood become a bore. They are just going through the motions. Each time I turn on that lathe though I feel a sense of excitement of what I might learn today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out trying to turn bowls in end grain. I don't know why. Looking back on it, I think it just made more sense to me. It seemed to me, round tree, round bowl. It isn't that simple though. Through research and the help of some good friends guiding me towards some good video where I could see proper techniques, I've come a long way since turning the bowl in this photo.
> Along the way, I learned that there is a place for end grain turning. However, after turning that end grain, I placed it on my work bench as a reminder of why you don't turn deep bowl in green end grain wood. All that cracking wood would just never do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next bowl was never meant to be complete. It was just a practice piece to test some of what I'd been learning. Looking at it on my bench now though, I sort of wish I had turned a tenon on the bottom of it so it would be easier to go back and actually finish it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was along this same time that I started realizing the dangers of using spindle gouges for bowl turning. The gouge on top of this photo is a spindle gouge. The one on bottom is a bowl gouge. That's a lot of different in tool size. I found out it is more than just size though. Tool weight and balance, and strength, makes the bowl gouge just handle better for the over reaching past the tool rest that you do with bowl turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, you see the bowl gouges I ordered. These are Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State Industries. You can order these gouges here if you'd like. Through my inexperience, these seem to be some great tools here, and if you research the prices of bowl gouges around the internet, they are also very reasonably priced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next trial in bowl turning turned into another disaster, but another lesson. I learned to start researching woods that I try to turn with. This is a hunk chopped off a cypress log. I tried turning it after mounting it with an reverse tenon. I'm not sure if that's the proper terminology, but I turned a recess in the bottom, reversed it, and then tried mounting it on my chuck with the jaws pushing outwards into that recess. I couldn't then understand why, not long after I started hogging the material out of the inside of the bowl, it slung off the lathe at high speed.
> I done what I've started doing anytime I don't understand something turning related. I stopped and got on the internet to try and learn. I learned that cypress is not a good wood to be turning bowls with anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to my latest bowl, and my first successful bowl. I know it doesn't look like much, but it is a huge accomplishment for me.
> The bowl is only two inches deep. It started out as about a five inch deep bowl. I messed it up several times though, and when I did, would part off the top of the mistake and keep going. This was after all supposed to be a learning exercise. I'm afraid I won't be using the bowl. It is still green and I turned it thin, as a finished bowl, just for practice sake. In the future, I need to leave them thicker, unfinished, to be able to turn them down to a finished state after they've dried. That is for the future though. For, now, I'm happy enough turning green finished bowls that I know won't be usable just for the experience. I'll have usable bowls soon enough that I'll look back on these and laugh at them.


do you know the technique of putting the bowl in a bag of sawdust to help it dry…something i heard a turner say was the best thing to do…im glad your enjoying the adventure, i wish i could get into it, turning is so cool, Ive watched it plenty to know its a real art in making things, have fun learning everything…i cant wait to see what you do with some walnut of other cool woods, some maple…once you get into some walnut, then turn me a new bowl…or a platter or shallow bowl…keep at it, i know you will.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Lessons Learned In Bowl Turning*
> 
> Learning to turn bowls is becoming quite an adventure. It seems sometimes that the more I learn, the more I have to learn. It is a fun adventure though, so I think I'll keep at it for a long time to come. Actually, the amount of knowledge and skill required I think is what makes turning even more interesting to me. A lot of wood working skills come easy to me. Sometimes, it seems they come too easy and there just isn't much of a challenge to it. Therefore, something like turning, that challenges me every step of the way, holds my interest much better. It has gotten to where some other skills I rely on for working wood become a bore. They are just going through the motions. Each time I turn on that lathe though I feel a sense of excitement of what I might learn today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out trying to turn bowls in end grain. I don't know why. Looking back on it, I think it just made more sense to me. It seemed to me, round tree, round bowl. It isn't that simple though. Through research and the help of some good friends guiding me towards some good video where I could see proper techniques, I've come a long way since turning the bowl in this photo.
> Along the way, I learned that there is a place for end grain turning. However, after turning that end grain, I placed it on my work bench as a reminder of why you don't turn deep bowl in green end grain wood. All that cracking wood would just never do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next bowl was never meant to be complete. It was just a practice piece to test some of what I'd been learning. Looking at it on my bench now though, I sort of wish I had turned a tenon on the bottom of it so it would be easier to go back and actually finish it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was along this same time that I started realizing the dangers of using spindle gouges for bowl turning. The gouge on top of this photo is a spindle gouge. The one on bottom is a bowl gouge. That's a lot of different in tool size. I found out it is more than just size though. Tool weight and balance, and strength, makes the bowl gouge just handle better for the over reaching past the tool rest that you do with bowl turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, you see the bowl gouges I ordered. These are Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State Industries. You can order these gouges here if you'd like. Through my inexperience, these seem to be some great tools here, and if you research the prices of bowl gouges around the internet, they are also very reasonably priced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next trial in bowl turning turned into another disaster, but another lesson. I learned to start researching woods that I try to turn with. This is a hunk chopped off a cypress log. I tried turning it after mounting it with an reverse tenon. I'm not sure if that's the proper terminology, but I turned a recess in the bottom, reversed it, and then tried mounting it on my chuck with the jaws pushing outwards into that recess. I couldn't then understand why, not long after I started hogging the material out of the inside of the bowl, it slung off the lathe at high speed.
> I done what I've started doing anytime I don't understand something turning related. I stopped and got on the internet to try and learn. I learned that cypress is not a good wood to be turning bowls with anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to my latest bowl, and my first successful bowl. I know it doesn't look like much, but it is a huge accomplishment for me.
> The bowl is only two inches deep. It started out as about a five inch deep bowl. I messed it up several times though, and when I did, would part off the top of the mistake and keep going. This was after all supposed to be a learning exercise. I'm afraid I won't be using the bowl. It is still green and I turned it thin, as a finished bowl, just for practice sake. In the future, I need to leave them thicker, unfinished, to be able to turn them down to a finished state after they've dried. That is for the future though. For, now, I'm happy enough turning green finished bowls that I know won't be usable just for the experience. I'll have usable bowls soon enough that I'll look back on these and laugh at them.


Thank you Roger. I don't know if I'd agree, but I'll get there.

Randy, the tool purchases don't end right away either. I'm waiting currently for a set of scrapers from PSI myself.

Grizz, this is a fun adventure. I'm learning more and more each time I turn on the lathe. Actually, I've been down lately and everything has been slow, including my posting. I have more I've done lately. I'll be typing up another entry tonight. 
For now though, I have pizza that isn't going to eat itself. So I'll have to delay typing that entry for a few minutes.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Lessons Learned In Bowl Turning*
> 
> Learning to turn bowls is becoming quite an adventure. It seems sometimes that the more I learn, the more I have to learn. It is a fun adventure though, so I think I'll keep at it for a long time to come. Actually, the amount of knowledge and skill required I think is what makes turning even more interesting to me. A lot of wood working skills come easy to me. Sometimes, it seems they come too easy and there just isn't much of a challenge to it. Therefore, something like turning, that challenges me every step of the way, holds my interest much better. It has gotten to where some other skills I rely on for working wood become a bore. They are just going through the motions. Each time I turn on that lathe though I feel a sense of excitement of what I might learn today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out trying to turn bowls in end grain. I don't know why. Looking back on it, I think it just made more sense to me. It seemed to me, round tree, round bowl. It isn't that simple though. Through research and the help of some good friends guiding me towards some good video where I could see proper techniques, I've come a long way since turning the bowl in this photo.
> Along the way, I learned that there is a place for end grain turning. However, after turning that end grain, I placed it on my work bench as a reminder of why you don't turn deep bowl in green end grain wood. All that cracking wood would just never do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next bowl was never meant to be complete. It was just a practice piece to test some of what I'd been learning. Looking at it on my bench now though, I sort of wish I had turned a tenon on the bottom of it so it would be easier to go back and actually finish it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was along this same time that I started realizing the dangers of using spindle gouges for bowl turning. The gouge on top of this photo is a spindle gouge. The one on bottom is a bowl gouge. That's a lot of different in tool size. I found out it is more than just size though. Tool weight and balance, and strength, makes the bowl gouge just handle better for the over reaching past the tool rest that you do with bowl turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, you see the bowl gouges I ordered. These are Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State Industries. You can order these gouges here if you'd like. Through my inexperience, these seem to be some great tools here, and if you research the prices of bowl gouges around the internet, they are also very reasonably priced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next trial in bowl turning turned into another disaster, but another lesson. I learned to start researching woods that I try to turn with. This is a hunk chopped off a cypress log. I tried turning it after mounting it with an reverse tenon. I'm not sure if that's the proper terminology, but I turned a recess in the bottom, reversed it, and then tried mounting it on my chuck with the jaws pushing outwards into that recess. I couldn't then understand why, not long after I started hogging the material out of the inside of the bowl, it slung off the lathe at high speed.
> I done what I've started doing anytime I don't understand something turning related. I stopped and got on the internet to try and learn. I learned that cypress is not a good wood to be turning bowls with anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to my latest bowl, and my first successful bowl. I know it doesn't look like much, but it is a huge accomplishment for me.
> The bowl is only two inches deep. It started out as about a five inch deep bowl. I messed it up several times though, and when I did, would part off the top of the mistake and keep going. This was after all supposed to be a learning exercise. I'm afraid I won't be using the bowl. It is still green and I turned it thin, as a finished bowl, just for practice sake. In the future, I need to leave them thicker, unfinished, to be able to turn them down to a finished state after they've dried. That is for the future though. For, now, I'm happy enough turning green finished bowls that I know won't be usable just for the experience. I'll have usable bowls soon enough that I'll look back on these and laugh at them.


From marble machine wizard to bowl turner. I know you're having fun and that's the whole point. I love the way that grain ran across that last bowl. Why is it not useful? Looks perfect to me.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Lessons Learned In Bowl Turning*
> 
> Learning to turn bowls is becoming quite an adventure. It seems sometimes that the more I learn, the more I have to learn. It is a fun adventure though, so I think I'll keep at it for a long time to come. Actually, the amount of knowledge and skill required I think is what makes turning even more interesting to me. A lot of wood working skills come easy to me. Sometimes, it seems they come too easy and there just isn't much of a challenge to it. Therefore, something like turning, that challenges me every step of the way, holds my interest much better. It has gotten to where some other skills I rely on for working wood become a bore. They are just going through the motions. Each time I turn on that lathe though I feel a sense of excitement of what I might learn today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out trying to turn bowls in end grain. I don't know why. Looking back on it, I think it just made more sense to me. It seemed to me, round tree, round bowl. It isn't that simple though. Through research and the help of some good friends guiding me towards some good video where I could see proper techniques, I've come a long way since turning the bowl in this photo.
> Along the way, I learned that there is a place for end grain turning. However, after turning that end grain, I placed it on my work bench as a reminder of why you don't turn deep bowl in green end grain wood. All that cracking wood would just never do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next bowl was never meant to be complete. It was just a practice piece to test some of what I'd been learning. Looking at it on my bench now though, I sort of wish I had turned a tenon on the bottom of it so it would be easier to go back and actually finish it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was along this same time that I started realizing the dangers of using spindle gouges for bowl turning. The gouge on top of this photo is a spindle gouge. The one on bottom is a bowl gouge. That's a lot of different in tool size. I found out it is more than just size though. Tool weight and balance, and strength, makes the bowl gouge just handle better for the over reaching past the tool rest that you do with bowl turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, you see the bowl gouges I ordered. These are Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State Industries. You can order these gouges here if you'd like. Through my inexperience, these seem to be some great tools here, and if you research the prices of bowl gouges around the internet, they are also very reasonably priced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next trial in bowl turning turned into another disaster, but another lesson. I learned to start researching woods that I try to turn with. This is a hunk chopped off a cypress log. I tried turning it after mounting it with an reverse tenon. I'm not sure if that's the proper terminology, but I turned a recess in the bottom, reversed it, and then tried mounting it on my chuck with the jaws pushing outwards into that recess. I couldn't then understand why, not long after I started hogging the material out of the inside of the bowl, it slung off the lathe at high speed.
> I done what I've started doing anytime I don't understand something turning related. I stopped and got on the internet to try and learn. I learned that cypress is not a good wood to be turning bowls with anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to my latest bowl, and my first successful bowl. I know it doesn't look like much, but it is a huge accomplishment for me.
> The bowl is only two inches deep. It started out as about a five inch deep bowl. I messed it up several times though, and when I did, would part off the top of the mistake and keep going. This was after all supposed to be a learning exercise. I'm afraid I won't be using the bowl. It is still green and I turned it thin, as a finished bowl, just for practice sake. In the future, I need to leave them thicker, unfinished, to be able to turn them down to a finished state after they've dried. That is for the future though. For, now, I'm happy enough turning green finished bowls that I know won't be usable just for the experience. I'll have usable bowls soon enough that I'll look back on these and laugh at them.


I say it's not useful because I'm sure it'll change shape and possibly crack while drying. At the moment, it is sitting on my bench, wet as a dish towel. That bowl spit water all over me while turning it. I do think I will turn some out of that same wood though. I'll leave them thicker though so that after they dry I can turn them to final shape and use them in my kitchen.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Lessons Learned In Bowl Turning*
> 
> Learning to turn bowls is becoming quite an adventure. It seems sometimes that the more I learn, the more I have to learn. It is a fun adventure though, so I think I'll keep at it for a long time to come. Actually, the amount of knowledge and skill required I think is what makes turning even more interesting to me. A lot of wood working skills come easy to me. Sometimes, it seems they come too easy and there just isn't much of a challenge to it. Therefore, something like turning, that challenges me every step of the way, holds my interest much better. It has gotten to where some other skills I rely on for working wood become a bore. They are just going through the motions. Each time I turn on that lathe though I feel a sense of excitement of what I might learn today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out trying to turn bowls in end grain. I don't know why. Looking back on it, I think it just made more sense to me. It seemed to me, round tree, round bowl. It isn't that simple though. Through research and the help of some good friends guiding me towards some good video where I could see proper techniques, I've come a long way since turning the bowl in this photo.
> Along the way, I learned that there is a place for end grain turning. However, after turning that end grain, I placed it on my work bench as a reminder of why you don't turn deep bowl in green end grain wood. All that cracking wood would just never do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next bowl was never meant to be complete. It was just a practice piece to test some of what I'd been learning. Looking at it on my bench now though, I sort of wish I had turned a tenon on the bottom of it so it would be easier to go back and actually finish it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was along this same time that I started realizing the dangers of using spindle gouges for bowl turning. The gouge on top of this photo is a spindle gouge. The one on bottom is a bowl gouge. That's a lot of different in tool size. I found out it is more than just size though. Tool weight and balance, and strength, makes the bowl gouge just handle better for the over reaching past the tool rest that you do with bowl turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, you see the bowl gouges I ordered. These are Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State Industries. You can order these gouges here if you'd like. Through my inexperience, these seem to be some great tools here, and if you research the prices of bowl gouges around the internet, they are also very reasonably priced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next trial in bowl turning turned into another disaster, but another lesson. I learned to start researching woods that I try to turn with. This is a hunk chopped off a cypress log. I tried turning it after mounting it with an reverse tenon. I'm not sure if that's the proper terminology, but I turned a recess in the bottom, reversed it, and then tried mounting it on my chuck with the jaws pushing outwards into that recess. I couldn't then understand why, not long after I started hogging the material out of the inside of the bowl, it slung off the lathe at high speed.
> I done what I've started doing anytime I don't understand something turning related. I stopped and got on the internet to try and learn. I learned that cypress is not a good wood to be turning bowls with anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to my latest bowl, and my first successful bowl. I know it doesn't look like much, but it is a huge accomplishment for me.
> The bowl is only two inches deep. It started out as about a five inch deep bowl. I messed it up several times though, and when I did, would part off the top of the mistake and keep going. This was after all supposed to be a learning exercise. I'm afraid I won't be using the bowl. It is still green and I turned it thin, as a finished bowl, just for practice sake. In the future, I need to leave them thicker, unfinished, to be able to turn them down to a finished state after they've dried. That is for the future though. For, now, I'm happy enough turning green finished bowls that I know won't be usable just for the experience. I'll have usable bowls soon enough that I'll look back on these and laugh at them.


Actually, William it will split faster the thicker you leave the walls! I would try to turn it under 1/4" that usually minimizes the splitting of cracking! It will warp a bit but that gives it character! I would rather have a warped bowl than a split one. I also see that you need to sharpen your tool more often. Just a light touch on the grinder is all you need. A good tip is to sharpen your tool just before you are done with the bowl, that way you have a sharp tool for your final cut and it will leave your bowl smoother. This comes with experience such as knowing when to put a new blade on your scroll saw! You are on your way to having fun, fun, fun!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Lessons Learned In Bowl Turning*
> 
> Learning to turn bowls is becoming quite an adventure. It seems sometimes that the more I learn, the more I have to learn. It is a fun adventure though, so I think I'll keep at it for a long time to come. Actually, the amount of knowledge and skill required I think is what makes turning even more interesting to me. A lot of wood working skills come easy to me. Sometimes, it seems they come too easy and there just isn't much of a challenge to it. Therefore, something like turning, that challenges me every step of the way, holds my interest much better. It has gotten to where some other skills I rely on for working wood become a bore. They are just going through the motions. Each time I turn on that lathe though I feel a sense of excitement of what I might learn today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out trying to turn bowls in end grain. I don't know why. Looking back on it, I think it just made more sense to me. It seemed to me, round tree, round bowl. It isn't that simple though. Through research and the help of some good friends guiding me towards some good video where I could see proper techniques, I've come a long way since turning the bowl in this photo.
> Along the way, I learned that there is a place for end grain turning. However, after turning that end grain, I placed it on my work bench as a reminder of why you don't turn deep bowl in green end grain wood. All that cracking wood would just never do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next bowl was never meant to be complete. It was just a practice piece to test some of what I'd been learning. Looking at it on my bench now though, I sort of wish I had turned a tenon on the bottom of it so it would be easier to go back and actually finish it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was along this same time that I started realizing the dangers of using spindle gouges for bowl turning. The gouge on top of this photo is a spindle gouge. The one on bottom is a bowl gouge. That's a lot of different in tool size. I found out it is more than just size though. Tool weight and balance, and strength, makes the bowl gouge just handle better for the over reaching past the tool rest that you do with bowl turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, you see the bowl gouges I ordered. These are Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State Industries. You can order these gouges here if you'd like. Through my inexperience, these seem to be some great tools here, and if you research the prices of bowl gouges around the internet, they are also very reasonably priced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next trial in bowl turning turned into another disaster, but another lesson. I learned to start researching woods that I try to turn with. This is a hunk chopped off a cypress log. I tried turning it after mounting it with an reverse tenon. I'm not sure if that's the proper terminology, but I turned a recess in the bottom, reversed it, and then tried mounting it on my chuck with the jaws pushing outwards into that recess. I couldn't then understand why, not long after I started hogging the material out of the inside of the bowl, it slung off the lathe at high speed.
> I done what I've started doing anytime I don't understand something turning related. I stopped and got on the internet to try and learn. I learned that cypress is not a good wood to be turning bowls with anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to my latest bowl, and my first successful bowl. I know it doesn't look like much, but it is a huge accomplishment for me.
> The bowl is only two inches deep. It started out as about a five inch deep bowl. I messed it up several times though, and when I did, would part off the top of the mistake and keep going. This was after all supposed to be a learning exercise. I'm afraid I won't be using the bowl. It is still green and I turned it thin, as a finished bowl, just for practice sake. In the future, I need to leave them thicker, unfinished, to be able to turn them down to a finished state after they've dried. That is for the future though. For, now, I'm happy enough turning green finished bowls that I know won't be usable just for the experience. I'll have usable bowls soon enough that I'll look back on these and laugh at them.


Thanks Bearpie.
I did sharpen the tool just before finishing. I don't think that is the problem, but I know what it is. I'm still on a steep learning curve on the sharpening skills too. Something I have figured out is that sharpening lathe tools pretty much requires one to forget a lot of what you know about sharpening other type tools. You see, I'm not saying you're wrong. I'm saying I need to learn more about sharpening. I'll get there though. 
That's good to know about thicker bowls cracking more. I'm leaving this one on the bench. I also have the one up there with the bark on it, and the end grain one with all the cracks on it. Until I start piling up too many, I'm leaving anything green I turn up there so I can observe how they react as they dry. You see, this is something else I need to learn, how the wood acts between completely wet and completely dry. Again, it's just more and more I must learn. It is fun to do so though.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Lessons Learned In Bowl Turning*
> 
> Learning to turn bowls is becoming quite an adventure. It seems sometimes that the more I learn, the more I have to learn. It is a fun adventure though, so I think I'll keep at it for a long time to come. Actually, the amount of knowledge and skill required I think is what makes turning even more interesting to me. A lot of wood working skills come easy to me. Sometimes, it seems they come too easy and there just isn't much of a challenge to it. Therefore, something like turning, that challenges me every step of the way, holds my interest much better. It has gotten to where some other skills I rely on for working wood become a bore. They are just going through the motions. Each time I turn on that lathe though I feel a sense of excitement of what I might learn today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out trying to turn bowls in end grain. I don't know why. Looking back on it, I think it just made more sense to me. It seemed to me, round tree, round bowl. It isn't that simple though. Through research and the help of some good friends guiding me towards some good video where I could see proper techniques, I've come a long way since turning the bowl in this photo.
> Along the way, I learned that there is a place for end grain turning. However, after turning that end grain, I placed it on my work bench as a reminder of why you don't turn deep bowl in green end grain wood. All that cracking wood would just never do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next bowl was never meant to be complete. It was just a practice piece to test some of what I'd been learning. Looking at it on my bench now though, I sort of wish I had turned a tenon on the bottom of it so it would be easier to go back and actually finish it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was along this same time that I started realizing the dangers of using spindle gouges for bowl turning. The gouge on top of this photo is a spindle gouge. The one on bottom is a bowl gouge. That's a lot of different in tool size. I found out it is more than just size though. Tool weight and balance, and strength, makes the bowl gouge just handle better for the over reaching past the tool rest that you do with bowl turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, you see the bowl gouges I ordered. These are Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State Industries. You can order these gouges here if you'd like. Through my inexperience, these seem to be some great tools here, and if you research the prices of bowl gouges around the internet, they are also very reasonably priced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next trial in bowl turning turned into another disaster, but another lesson. I learned to start researching woods that I try to turn with. This is a hunk chopped off a cypress log. I tried turning it after mounting it with an reverse tenon. I'm not sure if that's the proper terminology, but I turned a recess in the bottom, reversed it, and then tried mounting it on my chuck with the jaws pushing outwards into that recess. I couldn't then understand why, not long after I started hogging the material out of the inside of the bowl, it slung off the lathe at high speed.
> I done what I've started doing anytime I don't understand something turning related. I stopped and got on the internet to try and learn. I learned that cypress is not a good wood to be turning bowls with anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to my latest bowl, and my first successful bowl. I know it doesn't look like much, but it is a huge accomplishment for me.
> The bowl is only two inches deep. It started out as about a five inch deep bowl. I messed it up several times though, and when I did, would part off the top of the mistake and keep going. This was after all supposed to be a learning exercise. I'm afraid I won't be using the bowl. It is still green and I turned it thin, as a finished bowl, just for practice sake. In the future, I need to leave them thicker, unfinished, to be able to turn them down to a finished state after they've dried. That is for the future though. For, now, I'm happy enough turning green finished bowls that I know won't be usable just for the experience. I'll have usable bowls soon enough that I'll look back on these and laugh at them.


I have a question about sanding green wood.
Is there a process for doing it? Or do you just have to wait for the wood to dry?
I tried sanding some of my tool marks out of this bowl. The sandpaper loaded up almost instantly though.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Lessons Learned In Bowl Turning*
> 
> Learning to turn bowls is becoming quite an adventure. It seems sometimes that the more I learn, the more I have to learn. It is a fun adventure though, so I think I'll keep at it for a long time to come. Actually, the amount of knowledge and skill required I think is what makes turning even more interesting to me. A lot of wood working skills come easy to me. Sometimes, it seems they come too easy and there just isn't much of a challenge to it. Therefore, something like turning, that challenges me every step of the way, holds my interest much better. It has gotten to where some other skills I rely on for working wood become a bore. They are just going through the motions. Each time I turn on that lathe though I feel a sense of excitement of what I might learn today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out trying to turn bowls in end grain. I don't know why. Looking back on it, I think it just made more sense to me. It seemed to me, round tree, round bowl. It isn't that simple though. Through research and the help of some good friends guiding me towards some good video where I could see proper techniques, I've come a long way since turning the bowl in this photo.
> Along the way, I learned that there is a place for end grain turning. However, after turning that end grain, I placed it on my work bench as a reminder of why you don't turn deep bowl in green end grain wood. All that cracking wood would just never do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next bowl was never meant to be complete. It was just a practice piece to test some of what I'd been learning. Looking at it on my bench now though, I sort of wish I had turned a tenon on the bottom of it so it would be easier to go back and actually finish it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was along this same time that I started realizing the dangers of using spindle gouges for bowl turning. The gouge on top of this photo is a spindle gouge. The one on bottom is a bowl gouge. That's a lot of different in tool size. I found out it is more than just size though. Tool weight and balance, and strength, makes the bowl gouge just handle better for the over reaching past the tool rest that you do with bowl turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, you see the bowl gouges I ordered. These are Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State Industries. You can order these gouges here if you'd like. Through my inexperience, these seem to be some great tools here, and if you research the prices of bowl gouges around the internet, they are also very reasonably priced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next trial in bowl turning turned into another disaster, but another lesson. I learned to start researching woods that I try to turn with. This is a hunk chopped off a cypress log. I tried turning it after mounting it with an reverse tenon. I'm not sure if that's the proper terminology, but I turned a recess in the bottom, reversed it, and then tried mounting it on my chuck with the jaws pushing outwards into that recess. I couldn't then understand why, not long after I started hogging the material out of the inside of the bowl, it slung off the lathe at high speed.
> I done what I've started doing anytime I don't understand something turning related. I stopped and got on the internet to try and learn. I learned that cypress is not a good wood to be turning bowls with anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to my latest bowl, and my first successful bowl. I know it doesn't look like much, but it is a huge accomplishment for me.
> The bowl is only two inches deep. It started out as about a five inch deep bowl. I messed it up several times though, and when I did, would part off the top of the mistake and keep going. This was after all supposed to be a learning exercise. I'm afraid I won't be using the bowl. It is still green and I turned it thin, as a finished bowl, just for practice sake. In the future, I need to leave them thicker, unfinished, to be able to turn them down to a finished state after they've dried. That is for the future though. For, now, I'm happy enough turning green finished bowls that I know won't be usable just for the experience. I'll have usable bowls soon enough that I'll look back on these and laugh at them.


Here's that persistence thing working again…..that final bowl looks great. Lots of learning here..I agree, I tend to want to build more challenging things and keep pushing my own limits….I'm sure we'll be seeing some other cool stuff off those lathes in the near future….


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Lessons Learned In Bowl Turning*
> 
> Learning to turn bowls is becoming quite an adventure. It seems sometimes that the more I learn, the more I have to learn. It is a fun adventure though, so I think I'll keep at it for a long time to come. Actually, the amount of knowledge and skill required I think is what makes turning even more interesting to me. A lot of wood working skills come easy to me. Sometimes, it seems they come too easy and there just isn't much of a challenge to it. Therefore, something like turning, that challenges me every step of the way, holds my interest much better. It has gotten to where some other skills I rely on for working wood become a bore. They are just going through the motions. Each time I turn on that lathe though I feel a sense of excitement of what I might learn today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out trying to turn bowls in end grain. I don't know why. Looking back on it, I think it just made more sense to me. It seemed to me, round tree, round bowl. It isn't that simple though. Through research and the help of some good friends guiding me towards some good video where I could see proper techniques, I've come a long way since turning the bowl in this photo.
> Along the way, I learned that there is a place for end grain turning. However, after turning that end grain, I placed it on my work bench as a reminder of why you don't turn deep bowl in green end grain wood. All that cracking wood would just never do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next bowl was never meant to be complete. It was just a practice piece to test some of what I'd been learning. Looking at it on my bench now though, I sort of wish I had turned a tenon on the bottom of it so it would be easier to go back and actually finish it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was along this same time that I started realizing the dangers of using spindle gouges for bowl turning. The gouge on top of this photo is a spindle gouge. The one on bottom is a bowl gouge. That's a lot of different in tool size. I found out it is more than just size though. Tool weight and balance, and strength, makes the bowl gouge just handle better for the over reaching past the tool rest that you do with bowl turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, you see the bowl gouges I ordered. These are Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State Industries. You can order these gouges here if you'd like. Through my inexperience, these seem to be some great tools here, and if you research the prices of bowl gouges around the internet, they are also very reasonably priced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next trial in bowl turning turned into another disaster, but another lesson. I learned to start researching woods that I try to turn with. This is a hunk chopped off a cypress log. I tried turning it after mounting it with an reverse tenon. I'm not sure if that's the proper terminology, but I turned a recess in the bottom, reversed it, and then tried mounting it on my chuck with the jaws pushing outwards into that recess. I couldn't then understand why, not long after I started hogging the material out of the inside of the bowl, it slung off the lathe at high speed.
> I done what I've started doing anytime I don't understand something turning related. I stopped and got on the internet to try and learn. I learned that cypress is not a good wood to be turning bowls with anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to my latest bowl, and my first successful bowl. I know it doesn't look like much, but it is a huge accomplishment for me.
> The bowl is only two inches deep. It started out as about a five inch deep bowl. I messed it up several times though, and when I did, would part off the top of the mistake and keep going. This was after all supposed to be a learning exercise. I'm afraid I won't be using the bowl. It is still green and I turned it thin, as a finished bowl, just for practice sake. In the future, I need to leave them thicker, unfinished, to be able to turn them down to a finished state after they've dried. That is for the future though. For, now, I'm happy enough turning green finished bowls that I know won't be usable just for the experience. I'll have usable bowls soon enough that I'll look back on these and laugh at them.


You did good William. Your bowl has a pleasing shape to it. It is what we call 'rough turned' and now you have to let it dry for around 3 months in a dark cool dry place. It's good to leave it in the wet shavings for a couple of days first. I like to dry mine in paper feed sacks. The paper allows transfer of moisture but still keeps the drying slow. Sanding isn't necessary since you will be finish turning it later anyway. In the old days turners in Norway and Sweden traveled around from farm to farm near towns and villages. They would get free wood for turning new stuff for the farmer. The rest would be sold by the turner's family members around in the area while he worked. Freshly turned pieces were often stuffed into grain storage to slow down the drying process.

Just a note about endgrain turning. This is not something to fear when turned wet. The advantage to that kind of turning is that you can complete it in one go providing you leave the walls and bottom an even thickness. You can measure the depth to bottom easy enough, but you need calipers to determine the wall thickness. If you are turning a piece with the pith centered (a small log) you might have to use some glue to soak into the pith so it won't drop out. Thin super glue works well for this. Otherwise there are no particular problems with this type turning, except you need sharp gouges or other appropriate tools to make clean cuts. So I hope you won't wait too long before you give this type of turning a go again. I always choose an extra long piece and use as many long screws as possible with a steel faceplate mounted on the bottom for these turnings. The long screws are necessary since they don't hold as well in endgrain. There are many other ways to mount them too, but this is a good safe way.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Lessons Learned In Bowl Turning*
> 
> Learning to turn bowls is becoming quite an adventure. It seems sometimes that the more I learn, the more I have to learn. It is a fun adventure though, so I think I'll keep at it for a long time to come. Actually, the amount of knowledge and skill required I think is what makes turning even more interesting to me. A lot of wood working skills come easy to me. Sometimes, it seems they come too easy and there just isn't much of a challenge to it. Therefore, something like turning, that challenges me every step of the way, holds my interest much better. It has gotten to where some other skills I rely on for working wood become a bore. They are just going through the motions. Each time I turn on that lathe though I feel a sense of excitement of what I might learn today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started out trying to turn bowls in end grain. I don't know why. Looking back on it, I think it just made more sense to me. It seemed to me, round tree, round bowl. It isn't that simple though. Through research and the help of some good friends guiding me towards some good video where I could see proper techniques, I've come a long way since turning the bowl in this photo.
> Along the way, I learned that there is a place for end grain turning. However, after turning that end grain, I placed it on my work bench as a reminder of why you don't turn deep bowl in green end grain wood. All that cracking wood would just never do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next bowl was never meant to be complete. It was just a practice piece to test some of what I'd been learning. Looking at it on my bench now though, I sort of wish I had turned a tenon on the bottom of it so it would be easier to go back and actually finish it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was along this same time that I started realizing the dangers of using spindle gouges for bowl turning. The gouge on top of this photo is a spindle gouge. The one on bottom is a bowl gouge. That's a lot of different in tool size. I found out it is more than just size though. Tool weight and balance, and strength, makes the bowl gouge just handle better for the over reaching past the tool rest that you do with bowl turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, you see the bowl gouges I ordered. These are Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State Industries. You can order these gouges here if you'd like. Through my inexperience, these seem to be some great tools here, and if you research the prices of bowl gouges around the internet, they are also very reasonably priced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next trial in bowl turning turned into another disaster, but another lesson. I learned to start researching woods that I try to turn with. This is a hunk chopped off a cypress log. I tried turning it after mounting it with an reverse tenon. I'm not sure if that's the proper terminology, but I turned a recess in the bottom, reversed it, and then tried mounting it on my chuck with the jaws pushing outwards into that recess. I couldn't then understand why, not long after I started hogging the material out of the inside of the bowl, it slung off the lathe at high speed.
> I done what I've started doing anytime I don't understand something turning related. I stopped and got on the internet to try and learn. I learned that cypress is not a good wood to be turning bowls with anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to my latest bowl, and my first successful bowl. I know it doesn't look like much, but it is a huge accomplishment for me.
> The bowl is only two inches deep. It started out as about a five inch deep bowl. I messed it up several times though, and when I did, would part off the top of the mistake and keep going. This was after all supposed to be a learning exercise. I'm afraid I won't be using the bowl. It is still green and I turned it thin, as a finished bowl, just for practice sake. In the future, I need to leave them thicker, unfinished, to be able to turn them down to a finished state after they've dried. That is for the future though. For, now, I'm happy enough turning green finished bowls that I know won't be usable just for the experience. I'll have usable bowls soon enough that I'll look back on these and laugh at them.


Thank you Stefang for all your helful advice through these adventures so far.

The finished green bowl I don't think will be turned any more. You see, the sides are about the thickness I wanted for the bowl. The bottom is a different story. I kept messing up on the bottom. I wasn't keeping steady enough cut. I know now it's because I was making a push shearing cut when I should have been making am extremely light pull scraping cut. Anyway, before I figure this out, I'd gotten the bottom down to about one sixteenth of an inch. That's pretty thin, so I don't think I'll be doing anything else with it. I will be turning more like it though.

I will be doing more end grain turning in the future. The bowls are just the thing I'm trying to get good at right now. There are so many things though, including the end grain turning, that I wish to eventually learn to be better at.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*The Bent Shaft Lathe*

You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.








On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.








For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing. 
At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.








Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.








So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.








While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well. 
Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.

I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
















These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


That buffing station is ingenious! I knew that bent shaft lathe was driving you nuts (as it would me). You turned a broken tool into a totally useful item. Great work! I've never thought of putting emory paste on a wood substrate. Let us know how that works out.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


Thanks Andy. 
I don't know how the wood suface will work out. I did have reason for considering it though. I've seen slips for chisels in several catalogues. They are just shaped pieces of wood that you put paste on. Therefore, I thought it would work in this instance as well. I will be sure to let ya'll know though how it works out. 
HERE is an example of what I'm talking about. It's called the flexcut slipstrop. It is nothing more than a piece of shaped wood that you put paste on to use as a strop.


----------



## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


Very ingenious! Now I'll have to go look at your shop pictures.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


I can't remember how much I still have here on Lumberjocks, but I have a blog. The address to it is below all my posts. On my blog is every project I've made since back around 2009. 
Also, here is a neat video a friend of mine recorded and posted on YouTube of my shop.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


The support is very necessary on a thin rod if you are going to put any kind of pressure on it to help the buffing/polishing process. Good use of a "defective" lathe.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


Thanks Bearpie. I figured anything was better than it just sitting there in the way, useless.
Also, the kit I bought with all the buffing wheels in it (actually, it's two different kits) had three smaller wheels on shafts that you can mount in a drill. I kept these aside so I'd be able to get down into anything I can't do on this buffing station.
As for the center support, I wasn't sure, but like I said, I was sure it wouldn't hurt. The thin rod giving was my line of thinking though. It's only a three eighths rod. I thought about using a thicker rod, but a thicker rod would have been harder to get through the center of the buffing wheels.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


William, If the wood doesn't hold the emory well enough try one of those paper/cardboard wheels the knife guys use. They work great for honing an edge with buffing compounds.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


Thanks Andy. I think the wood will work, but if not, I will be looking for a plan B. I'll keep your idea in mind.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


Plan "B" could be MDF. There are many a strop made of MDF.

I don't want to swell your already huge head by saying "ingenious", but….


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


Very good use of an otherwise useless tool! You will fall in love with the buffing rig…....I have the beall buffing thing and it kicks butt…...for sure one of my favorite finishing tricks…...well done.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


You have a lot of great ideas William and the initiative and creativeness to actually build them too. MDF makes a pretty good sharpening wheel, probably better than wood.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


very cleaver William


----------



## flintbone

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


Good job William. Another idea is to glue a piece of leather on your bushing.
With a little compound on it you will have another great power strop option.
Keep up the good work.
flint


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


Thank you all. I know now that MDF is the way to go if I don't like how the wood performs.

Flint, I'd actually thought about leather since a leather strop is what I use on my bench chisels. I searched and couldn't find the piece of leather I have somewhere. I put it somewhere where I'd know where it is. Now I don't know where it is.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


Is it holding up your pants??


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


No, I haven't resorted to using my belt yet. 
I have to hold those pants up.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


William.
I'll send leather, if need be! KEEP them pants UP!!! Thank you!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Bent Shaft Lathe*
> 
> You may remember, my recent adventures into wood turning almost ended before it even got started good due to the bent shaft on an old lathe. In that corner, there sits three lathes now, a Ridgid, the big heavy flat bed lathe, and the bent shaft lathe. Every time I looked over at the bent shaft lathe, I've considered what to do with it. It sits on a heavy old bar and was just taking up space. While I do have a very large shop, I still don't like wasted space. I need to figure out what to do with it pretty soon before it bugged me to death.
> So, I was looking into several books and catalogues at wood turning equipment. Some of the looking I must admit is only wishful thinking because of lack of funds. Something I seen though that peaked my interest was a buffing station that is sold to be mounted between centers on a lathe. I thought about this and realized that the bent shaft, and the resulting off balance turning, would not effect how a buffing pad works. However, the problem was still, I couldn't afford it. If any of you have seen much of my past work though, you know lack of funds doesn't usually stop me.
> To start with, I see everything these days as an opportunity to turn something on the lathe, so I got started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the headstock end, I just turned a cone that would seat itself into the morse taper. The other side of the cone I drilled a hole on center slightly smaller than the three eighths all thread and force threaded the rod into the cone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the other end of the all thread, I turned a bushing with a force threaded hole on one side, just like on the head stock end, and on the other side I installed a bearing. The old tail stock spindle was grinded down to a cone to snugly fit inside the wooden bushing.
> At first, I scratched me head on how to get the hole for the bearing on the bushing. In the past, for through hole, I have drilled undersized holes for things such as this and used a spindle sander to slowly open it up for a press fit. This couldn't be done here though because I needed a blind hole that would not allow the bearing to press all the way through when I put pressure on it from the tail stock. Then it hit me, turn the hole on the lathe. That's what I done too. As I said earlier, I see so much these days as an opportunity to turn wood. I got a better press fit by turning this on the lathe than I ever could using any method I've tried in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards the middle of the all thread, I used a brass sleeve bushing as extra support. I don't know if I really needed this middle support or not, because I did not test it without it. I did know though that it wouldn't hurt it.
> It is simply a brass sleeve bushing, sandwiched between holes in three pieces of wood, and mounted on the old tool rest base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my new buffing station. On the far left is a sanding disk. I took an old spindle sander that originally mounted on a drill chuck and made that. I haven't used those sanding disks since I purchased a dedicated spindle sander. So it needed a new home anyway. Next is a piece of wood I turned with different profile. I will load this up with emory paste. I intent to use it to touch turning tools on while turning. This ought to help me extend the life of the edge of my tools and keep me from going back to the grinder with them quite so often. Then, on the right side of the center support, I have buffing pads from course to fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing all this, I decided to just turn that whole bar into a work station to sharpen tools. The buffing station is on top. The grinder is right below it. I also now have a dedicated sharpening jig system on the grinder. I will probably blog about that one at a later date. Also, I built a new lathe tool holder. This is identical to the old one on the left side of the table. At this time it has my new bowl gouges in it, and I am currently awaiting some scrapers from Penn State Industries that will find a new home here as well.
> Behind all this, on the bar top surface, I drilled various holes to hold my chucks, faceplate, knockout tools, and so forth. I have plenty of room there to add more holes for more accessories as I'm able to get them.
> 
> I completed all this and admired my work, but was unhappy. I wanted to turn something. My back was hurting though, and my boys weren't presently there to help me lift any wood to get a bowl blank. I remembered a turning exercise I had done a long time ago though and remembered it was fun to do. I thought I could do a better job of it this time since my turning skills are steadily improving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These captured ring things are fun to turn. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do them. They actually sell dedicated tools for making these. I just use a gouge, skew chisel, and parting tool to make them though.


Thanks Randy.
If I have to resort to using the belt I'll take pictures and send to you.
That's be a great incentive for you not to procrastinate so much.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Close Only Counts With..............*

I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades". 
I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.

First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend. 
Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
















Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF. 
I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.









This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools. 








Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.








This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.

You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap. 








I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor. 
So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes. 
The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.








Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.








As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom. 
I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.

All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.








I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.

Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


----------



## Dakkar

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Close Only Counts With..............*
> 
> I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades".
> I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.
> 
> First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
> I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend.
> Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF.
> I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
> I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.
> 
> You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor.
> So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
> So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes.
> The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom.
> I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
> That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.
> 
> All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.
> 
> Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


I wouldn't discard that bowl. One thing you learn as an artist is that there are no mistakes. Just apply a bit more creativity to and it may be worth more than it would have before.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Close Only Counts With..............*
> 
> I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades".
> I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.
> 
> First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
> I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend.
> Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF.
> I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
> I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.
> 
> You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor.
> So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
> So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes.
> The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom.
> I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
> That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.
> 
> All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.
> 
> Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


Yep - try try again and as Dakkar said, it's not done yet.

The buffing station is way cool…..the bowl looks great…and could easily sit on the coffee table with a few trinkets in it….

Good you got the lathe exchanged….hopefully this one is better…..

Keep on truckin'


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Close Only Counts With..............*
> 
> I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades".
> I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.
> 
> First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
> I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend.
> Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF.
> I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
> I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.
> 
> You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor.
> So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
> So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes.
> The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom.
> I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
> That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.
> 
> All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.
> 
> Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


I'm not discarding the bowl. It is already coming in useful.
Often, when I remove faceplates from blanks I am bad about simply laying the screws on the table.
They quickly get lost in the sawdust and shavings.
Now they go in my bowl and I know where they are.
From previous experience, I never reuse screws for holding on the faceplate again. 
Too much stress, the lathe is not where I want a wood screw to fail.
However, they are still good for other uses when I just needing an odd screw or two.

Jeff, they exchanged the lathe with no questions asked.
I was told that as long as it's under the two year warranty I bought with it,
That it would be exchanged for a new one for any problem that may arrise.
The only drawback is that it's over forty miles to the nearest Harbor Freight.

There is good news on the horizon though.
My wife, since I've gotten two good lathe now,
The harbor freight one and a Ridgid from our friend Eddie, 
has noticed how much I've really taken to wood turning.
We've discussed the fact that it is something that, 
in the event I get back down in my wheelchair,
Which happens form time to time,
Can be easily adapted for me to do in the sit down position.
So we are talking about starting a savings account to save up enough for a lathe that is good enough to last me for the rest of my life.
I'm eyeing a real nice Powermatic that would probably be around the rest of my life, and my kid's lives.
It's only about three grand.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Close Only Counts With..............*
> 
> I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades".
> I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.
> 
> First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
> I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend.
> Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF.
> I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
> I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.
> 
> You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor.
> So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
> So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes.
> The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom.
> I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
> That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.
> 
> All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.
> 
> Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


Oh, I wanted to add that the last bit of that reply is wishful thinking.
I don't truly believe I'll ever get up enough dough to afford a three thousand dollar tool,
But a guy can dream can't he?


----------



## NateMeadows

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Close Only Counts With..............*
> 
> I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades".
> I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.
> 
> First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
> I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend.
> Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF.
> I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
> I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.
> 
> You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor.
> So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
> So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes.
> The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom.
> I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
> That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.
> 
> All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.
> 
> Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


William,

Hang in there. Sorry to here about your hard times.

I am glad to see you have found some joy in turning!

If you have to remain in a wheel chair have you looked at the OneWay lathe?

http://www.oneway.ca/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=23&Itemid=2

Nate


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Close Only Counts With..............*
> 
> I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades".
> I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.
> 
> First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
> I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend.
> Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF.
> I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
> I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.
> 
> You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor.
> So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
> So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes.
> The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom.
> I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
> That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.
> 
> All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.
> 
> Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


One must dream….
Sometimes they become reality!!!

You got tool rests and what not on order!
Yeah, your addicted!!
Not sayin' it's a bad thing!!!


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Close Only Counts With..............*
> 
> I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades".
> I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.
> 
> First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
> I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend.
> Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF.
> I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
> I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.
> 
> You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor.
> So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
> So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes.
> The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom.
> I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
> That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.
> 
> All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.
> 
> Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


You are definitely making good progress William. Your bowl looked good except for the damage due to the lathe problem. I'm sure we will be seeing some great stuff coming off your new lathe in no time. It's really difficult to sit there with pain when you want so bad to be in the shop, but I see you are putting that downtime to good use learning more about turning. It's never a bad idea to use your tailstock until you get the workpiece well balanced. I usually start rough turning a bowl at 450rpm and never go over 1150rpm except for small diameter turnings.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Close Only Counts With..............*
> 
> I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades".
> I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.
> 
> First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
> I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend.
> Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF.
> I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
> I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.
> 
> You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor.
> So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
> So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes.
> The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom.
> I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
> That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.
> 
> All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.
> 
> Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


You are a gr8 turner from what I see, and a gr8 craftsman, period! I hope you can get you new lathe in the future. Work/Play safe. Keep makin chips n dust


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Close Only Counts With..............*
> 
> I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades".
> I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.
> 
> First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
> I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend.
> Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF.
> I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
> I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.
> 
> You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor.
> So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
> So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes.
> The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom.
> I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
> That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.
> 
> All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.
> 
> Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


Nate, I like the idea of the sit down One Way. 
However, the features of the Powermatiic I have been eyeing versus the price tag make it a better fit for me, in my opinion, versus the price tag. For one thing, my dream is to one day turn larger, very large bowls. The OneWay has a one horse motor. For a substantial amount less money, the powermatic has a three horse. I believe that different in motor horse power is also going to give a huge difference in torque. Being an ex-mechanic, I know that the horse power is really a vague number, but the torque is what one really needs to turn those large heavy bowl blanks, especially when they're green.

Randy, I am not addicted. At least not yet. I have not sold a kidney yet. 
Seriously though, I have been staying broke lately. I told you when you bought your lathe that I had already learned that turning could get expensive fast. If I figured everything up, it is still hard to believe that I have way more in accessorries than I do in what I conisdered a fairly high priced tools, the lathe. The bad things is, even though it is the most lathe I can afford anytime soon, I can already see it is not going to be enough.

Stefang, I don't know if I explained the speeds correctly. I am rough turning bowls at the lathe's slowest speed, which I think is 500 RPM. After everything is balanced, I do what Bob Hamilton suggests. I turn the lathe up until I get a slight vibration, then back off a bit. This usually wind up being about middle of the speed dial, or around 1200 RPMs or less. My lathe spins up to I think 2500 RPMs. I have yet to find a use for that. I don't even turn small spindles that fast. I guess some people do though, maybe pen turners?
As for the learning while I'm down, thats what I do a lot. This is why I have always said that wood work, although not so good for my health at times, is very therapeudic for me. Even when I'm down and can't get in the shop and do what I want, the learning, reading, and watching still keeps my mind occupied. Sometimes, that all one needs, is to keep his mind moving even when his body can't.

Roger, I can hope, but I know all that is really wishful thinking. The new lathe I have right now costs less than three hundred, and that was a hard price point to swing. Who knows. Maybe someone will by one of my huge scroll work pieces one of these days. I honestly don't see that happening either though. So, until I find that great money tree, I will have to make do with what I have.


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Close Only Counts With..............*
> 
> I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades".
> I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.
> 
> First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
> I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend.
> Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF.
> I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
> I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.
> 
> You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor.
> So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
> So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes.
> The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom.
> I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
> That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.
> 
> All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.
> 
> Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


William thin assed bowls make great lamp shades
A design drilled can let more light through
It is all great fun I hope you feel better soon

Jamie


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Close Only Counts With..............*
> 
> I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades".
> I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.
> 
> First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
> I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend.
> Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF.
> I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
> I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.
> 
> You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor.
> So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
> So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes.
> The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom.
> I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
> That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.
> 
> All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.
> 
> Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


Thanks Jamie.
I got some shop time today.
Blog post coming shortly.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Close Only Counts With..............*
> 
> I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades".
> I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.
> 
> First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
> I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend.
> Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF.
> I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
> I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.
> 
> You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor.
> So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
> So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes.
> The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom.
> I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
> That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.
> 
> All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.
> 
> Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


Good God are you hording wood again?
Stop that you will get termites.
A good use for a broken tool William.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Close Only Counts With..............*
> 
> I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades".
> I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.
> 
> First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
> I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend.
> Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF.
> I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
> I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.
> 
> You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor.
> So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
> So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes.
> The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom.
> I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
> That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.
> 
> All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.
> 
> Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


Thank you Dave,
And what do you mean, hoarding wood again?
I didn't realized I ever stopped hoarding wood.


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Close Only Counts With..............*
> 
> I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades".
> I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.
> 
> First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
> I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend.
> Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF.
> I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
> I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.
> 
> You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor.
> So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
> So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes.
> The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom.
> I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
> That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.
> 
> All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.
> 
> Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


Somewhere I saw a turner that used paint rollers for buffing. Because of their length, he could put 2 or 3 different grades of compound on a single roller. He put the on the lathe similar to what you have done.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Close Only Counts With..............*
> 
> I was going to title this entry, Close To Success. Every time I think of the word close though, I think of my Uncle who used to say, close only counts with horse shoes and hand grenades".
> I'll get to that unsuccessfuly, but learning, experience in a bit. First, I wanted to share a few thoughts of mine as I go down this turning road.
> 
> First, I've learned an important lesson lately. I've been down a lot the last few weeks. I'm currently going through a particular bad spell. My wife has been having to help me just to get my socks on most of the time the last few days. So walking and standing much has been out of the question. Thanks to that though, I've been doing a lot of reading and video watching about turning.
> I've known this lesson before now, but somehow didn't realize the significance of it until I tried it. I've seen so many people on videos turning bowls simply attached to the headstock in various manners with no support from the tail end. That's all fine and good, but I have to remember that these guys making these videos have more experience than me. So, the tailstock is my friend.
> Lately, when I'm able to practice my bowl turning skills, I've been using the tailstock to help support my work piece. This has helped greatly. It keeps the piece from moving off center in case I do get a catch. Also, it allows me to bring the speed up a little more with confidence. I have found that, while I don't want the bowl blanks spinning at deadly, airplace propeller speeds, turning at the slowest speed also seems to always set me up for catches. A little more towards the middle of the speed range seems to do a better job. The use of the tail stock support helps me achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the hard wood piece I turned for the buffing station. I intended to use it like a moving strop. We discussed on one of these earlier blog series if it would work or not. It did, but extremely poorly. I had to leave the tool on it so long and with such force, that it quickly wore away any compound you put on it. Since I haven't been able to do much lately, I was able to take the time for this easy task and removed the hardwood piece and go with MDF.
> I hate working with MDF and have never tried turning any, so I wanted to keep the pieces as perfectly round as possible. So I drill a three eighths hole, the size I needed for the shaft, and made a temporary circle jig for my router. I have a circle jig, but it uses a quarter inch center pin, and I wanted to be sure to have the three eighths hole perfectly centered. That's why I made a temporary instead of using my regular one.
> I happy to report that, useing the circle jig, it took very little effort to true up the setup after mounting it on the shaft, and the MDF works great as a strop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old bar and bent shaft lathe I turned into the buffing station. I can't remember if I showed this whole setup last time or not. Anyway, I've basically turned this whole area into a buffing station/grinding station/accessory storage area. This whole setup sits just to the end of where my two lathes are. The grinder is just below the buffing station. The two tool holders hold a majority of the turning tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the one on the right holds the basic tools I use for pretty much everything. There are extra Harbor Freight tools on the side of the station that I grab to grind some one time profile I wish to try. The ones in the left tool holder are a cheap set that was given to me. The ones in the right though, the ones in the right are my better quality tools I have bought in smaller sets or seperately to get just what I wanted. Someone told me once that a matching set looks nice, but when you get the proper tools, nothing will match. They were right. A lot of these tools don't match. All are various lengths. Each has it's own use and does a good job though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a view from the back of that station. Here I've drilled holes to hold other accessorries like extra tools rests, centers, and such. I'll be having to add more hole as needed, and soon, because I have on order now a couple of S-shaped bowl rests and some better quality centers.
> 
> You may notice the bowl sitting towards the left of that last photo. That is the bowl that is the main topic of this entry. I was proud of the progress I was making on that bowl, before it all went to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting near the point of making finishing, shearing cuts on that bowl when the lathe started bogging down. A couple of times it actually came to a complete stop. I thought maybe I was trying to make too deep of cuts. I thought about that though. I was to a point of taking very fine cuts, trying to make a real smooth finish. Besides, even though this is a ten inch bowl, towards the end, when it is actually much lighter than I started with, it shouldn't be bogging down a three quarter horse motor.
> So, my first though, since the only complaint I've heard about this lathe when I was researching it, was some people having problems with the Reeve's Drive system, I thought it was maybe the belt slipping. So I took the cover off to investigate. It was not the belt. Actually, it was also the time when I realized it was the motor for sure, that I also noticed the burned smell coming from the motor.
> So, since it was still under warranty, and my son offered to help, it was an aggrevating task of disassembly, making a trip to Jackson, and reasssembly. I'm hoping this was a case of just a bad motor in a batch. This is the first I've heard of motor issues with these lathes.
> The new one, the one pictured above, seems to be working fine, but back to the story about the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the bowl. I was quite happy with it until the lathe started messing up. I know it's got some crack in it, but I thought it added character. When the motor would bog down, the speed would go way down to stopping, or almost stopping. Everytime this would happen, in addition to my inexperience, I wound up with extremely rough cuts. It seemed that, before I figured out the motor was the culprit, the more I tried to fix the bowl, the worse it got. I should have stopped before going to far, but hindsight…..., well, ya'll know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this photo, when I kept going, I got a tad too thin on the bottom.
> I was going for about a quarter inch thick. However, when you keep taking tiny bites to try and smooth out a messed up piece, those tiny bites start to add up to a bowl that's well on it's way to becoming a funnel.
> That's ok though. Do you remember the bowl was sitting on the accessory table in the earlier photo? I've been needing something on that table to throw small parts in.
> 
> All that being told, I have really been enjoying these adventures in wood turning. As a matter of fact, all my limited shop time lately has been taken up by it to the point that I haven't done anything else, even scroll work. I now have new problem though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am finding that less and less wood that people give me is going in the fire wood pile, and more and more of it is going in the stacks that I think I can get usable turning wood out of. It is starting to become a pile that is getting in my way. As soon as I'm feeling more up to it and can get some help out here, I've got to find a better place to put it than behind my work area to the table saws.
> 
> Before anyone says it, that huge peice towards the right is not something I plan on trying to put on a lathe. That is what I use to block round pieces on so I can cut them down to size with a chain saw.


I hadn't thought of that, but paint roller would make great buffers when these wear out.
I'm going to have to keep that idea in the back of the old noggin.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*

I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.








And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.








Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet. 








After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.

The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.

By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.








I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube. 
These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


William, you get more done in a day when yer feelin bad than most folks get done in a month! I no from nothing about turning but I wonder what would happen if you shellacked the devil out of that live edge bowl right now before it dries and cracks? Just a thought. I love that bowl and hate to see it fall to pieces.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


Well, I wood have to say you done good!!!

I like the Non-Rubiks cube in a cube ina cube. I'm gonna have to figure out how to do them! Along with figuring out how to do woodwork and turnibg and finishing and…...


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


I've thought of that Andy. The shellac may slow the drying down though. Nothing will stop it. I'm new to all this and still learning the effects of drying and constantly changing my work as I learn what I need to know. 
Based on what I do know, I don't think it will actually fall to pieces. It'll just be cracking, around the pith especially, as in that area the wood will be drying and moving in all directions at once. It will simply be cracks that will keep it from actually holding anything like food or liquid. 
I don't think these type bowls are really meant for that anyway. I see them more as dicarative pieces. Depending on just how bad the cracks are, I may leave them and finish over them, or fill them with something and finish. Sometimes, defects such as crack, in my opinion, simply add more character to a piece.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


The cubes are just something easy to do when you're hurting like me, or simply wanting something easy to do.
1. Cut some perfectly square cubes to whatever size you wish. These are 2 3/4".
2. Setup your fence and a stop block on your drill press so that the center of a drill bit hits dead center of one of the sides. Be careful and take the time to get this perfect, as this will be the reference to drill all six sides.
3. Use your depth stop, drill into the block. I like to start with about a quarter inch of depth. Drill that hole into all six sides. 
4. Move your depth stop so you're going a tiny bit deeper and drill all six sides again. I go about an eighth of an inch at a time until I get close to being done.
5. Keep moving the depth stop and going deeper and deeper until the inside cube has only a small bit holding it to the outside block at each corner.
6. Use a small, extremely sharp chisel and break away the four corners from the outside cube. 
7. Use a needle file or similar tool and clean up the inside edges of the outside cube, and the outside edges of the inside cube. I use my dremil tool with a small rasp bit to do this. You can use a needle file or sandpaper though.

This give you a cube in a cube.

To do a cube in a cube in a cube, do steps 1 - 5.
Then, without breaking the inside cube loose yet, use a smaller bit and do steps 1 - 5 again to get a tiny cube inside another cube, inside another cube. 
Now, 
6. use a sharp chisel and break away the smallest cube from the rest of the assmebly.
7. Use your method of choice to clean up this assembly before moving on.
8. Now use your chisel to break away the middle sized cube.
9. Repeat the cleaning up process.

This same method could possibly be used to make as many cubes as you like in as many cubes as you like, depending on cube size, drill bit size, and how thin you get comfortable making the walls. The thinner you make the walls (size of bit in relation to size of cube) ,the more delicate you'll have to be in order to assure that things don't just break into pieces.
Speaking of that, I have pushed the envelope on this one before and have had many failures. You have to experiment to find that sweet spot that you're comfortable with when it comes to wall thickness.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


William you are getting a grip on that turning , i admire that ,you get your mind set and aint no holding you back ,great job ,like Andy said making hay while it day , got to try the cube one day ,right now in the middle of benches for the spring time ,


----------



## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


I second what Andy said, you did well for being in rough shape today!

I like the cubes.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


Thanks for the instruction.
While researching a CNC router build, over on the CNCZone.com, many a metal cube in a cube in a cube were posted. It has intrigued me for many a year now. This is the first time I've had it explained. I will try this some day!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


Thanks Eddie. If I let difficulties stop me, I may as well lie down and die. I can't do that. I've still got too many people to annoy before I am allowed to kick the bucket. It's like my job I think.

Thanks Sandra. I only wish I could do more. Of course, I feel that same way when I feel well and get plenty done. My wife says I'm my own worst critic, and my own worst enemy.

Randy, they're not that difficult. After doing your first one, you can do them in your sleep. The hardest part is learning to not go to far, completely releasing the inside cube while still on the drill press with a forstner bit buried in it. You'll learn quickly why the first time it happens to you. I suggest doing several cube in a cubes (one inside cube) and get used to the process before trying to do anything more complicated.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


One last thing about the cube in a cubes,
I like to hand them to people who come into my shop and ask them can they get the cube out.
Usually, eventually, they'll ask how I got the cube in.
My answer?
It was always there. I just took all the material away that was trapping it.

I do a similar routine with the captured ring turnings.
I like to keep people guessing, and it gets them interested in seeing more of my work. 
I don't know why, but it works that way.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


I would suggest putting some kind of oil finish on the bowl, it will slow down the drying process. I suggest Tung oil or mineral oil, linseed oil. Even putting a poly finish on it will slow the drying process. At least you may have a salvageable bowl rather than something you may just look at and wonder why it cracked so bad. At least you will be able to say you tried to save it.


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


Sweet…..


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


Thanks Erwin. 
I thought you did not put finish on wet bowls. 
I'll give it a try.

Thanks Marty.


----------



## LittlePaw

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


I'm just wondering what would happen if you applied wood hardener to the wet bowl. I applied 4 coasts in quick succession on a basswood carving and it seem to stablize it as well as harden it. You might try it on a piece of scrap first just to see what would happen?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


Thanks Paul.
That's something to consider.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


Now that's what I call a quantum leap William! Great looking bowl and the cubes are cool too. You could try soaking some superglue into the bottom of your bowl to stabilize those cracks. I have turned many of these from wet wood without any cracking and also without aging them, you just have to keep the walls and bottom and even thickness.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


You are on a serious roll. "To everything, turn, turn, turn"


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


Thanks for all the kind words guys.

Stefang.
The even thickness is something I am having real difficulties with at the moment. I have tried everything, but there is one spot, that transition area I think some people call it, between the sides and the bottom, that no matter how rounded or squared it is, always gives me grief. When I done the larger bowl several days ago, I think I found the answer though. I did not get catches as bad in that area of that bowl, but it was large enough for me to get my rest positioned to where I wasn't working so far over it. I have a curned tool rest that will help with smaller bowl on it's way from PSI already. According to the tracking site, it's supposed to be here friday. I think that's going to be a huge help.
Also, I have a different tail center coming that is going to allow me to get more towards the center while still allowing the tail to help support the bowl. It's one of those centers with a sixty degree point. It sticks out way further than the one that came with my lathe. This I also believe is going to help a lot.

I'm getting there. I'm learning all I can and getting all the practice I can. 
The one thing that I wish to do that I think is a long ways off is hollow vessels. I see a lot of those that just fascinate me. At this point in time though, I don't think I am nowhere near ready for that.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


I've used Pentacryl for smaller pieces and it seems to work well. I think it swaps water for plastic or some such magical thing. Does anyone know about how this really works?

I hope you're feeling a little bit better every day.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Now THIS Is What I Call Fun*
> 
> I sat here this morning trying to figure out what I was going to do. I was hurting so bad I couldn't even put my boots on until my wife got home from her night shift at work to help me. I lurked around Lumberjocks until then. As soon as I got my boots on though, I was determined not to let the day be a total waste. I was going to do something, even if it was wrong. Not only that, but I wanted to do something on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did do wrong. I had a good reason though. I could not bend over at all this morning. I could not handle running the chain saw or picking a large enough piece up and hold steady to cut on the band saw. I did feel though that if I could get something chucked up on the lathe, I could sit on a stool and hold a tool. So that's what I done.
> This was not from a prepared blank at all. I simply predrilled a hole into a short piece of a small log and run it up onto a screw chuck. I then just started rounding it down on the lathe while sitting. I had been seeing these type bowls on videos online and decided to try my hand at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I started with a whole log instead of a half, the pith runs right through the middle of this bowl. I'm sure this will probably crack pretty badly as it dries. I put it aside anyway to let it dry. I'll see if it can be saved even for a display piece in a few months when it is dry enough to finish.
> That brings me to my lesson for today. You may have noticed that I'm learning a lot of lessons lately.
> My lesson today is that to never assume a piece of a log is dry without cutting into it and seeing what the middle is like. I actually thought this was a dry piece of log. It seems that way anyhow, until I got closer to the middle. The middle was wet. I'm talking about been soaking in the bathtub wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After getting it done though, I hope this is salvagable when it's dry. I love the way that pith made this design inside the bowl. It looks so interesting to me.
> That brings me to today's entry title. Now THIS is what I call fun. It may be the wrong technnique turning the whole log as I done. I assume it is anyway based on everything I've read, seen, and been told. I don't care though. Taking a whole piece of a log, round with bark on, and turning it into something on the lathe is the most fun I've had in a long time. I have enjoyed all the turning I've been learning, but after today, I can definately see myself making more live edge turnings. As soon as I'm able, I want to split some logs down the middle and do some that may make more stable pieces.
> 
> The rest of today's entry isn't wood turning, but I'm placing it here anyway because it is just what I done today.
> 
> By the time I got the bowl done, I wanted to turn another bowl. However, I seen no sense in turning another bowl with the pith through the middle like the other one, and I still knew I wasn't up to preparing anything better at the moment. Actually, I was feeling even worse and didn't feel up to even trying to get another small piece of log up to the lathe. So I had to find something else to do, with easily prepared material, that I could do on my stool or another chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed some blocks of wood I had cut wrong for another project sitting on one of my many wood catch all places. They were wrong for what I originally cut them for, but they were the perfect size for something I hadn't done in a while. Besides, I've had several people the last couple of months ask about them. You see, I used to have several of them around that I would show visitors to my shop. I have since given them all away to different people though.
> These are made with sapelle blocks. The middle is a cube in a cube. The other two are a cube in a cube in a cube.
> These are about the size of the largest I've ever done. The reason is that these are the largest I can cut and get square with enough accuracy to do them right with the equipment I have. One of these days I want to figure out a way to get perfectly square wood that is large enough to do four, or maybe eve five, cubes inside of each others. Three is the most I've been able to do successfully with this size.


I've never heard of it Doe, but am always happy to learn about something new.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Round Bowl In A Square Block*

It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.








Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.

.

















This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot. 
The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool. 
I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.

.









I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.

.
Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
























This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.

.

Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


----------



## StumpyNubs

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


That wound looks like a real gusher! You'd better go get some stitches in that!

Despite your horrific near amputation, your turning looks top notch!


----------



## StumpyNubs

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


I watched a guy turning a bowl out of a burl once. It still had the bark on the rim as he was sanding the inside with paper. I was just waiting for him to slice an artery with that razor sharp edge. He survived, but it was a really stupid thing to do. I wonder why some people get away with stupid while people like us get injured with safety glasses, ear plugs, push sticks, feather boards and riot shields between us and the danger…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


That's funny Stumpy.
Actually, I'm one of those stupid people you were just talking about.
I learn from my mistakes.
I try to use common sense safety as much as possibly, but on the other hand, I also feel that if we're not willing to take on the inherit dangers that comes with wood working, and the tools used to do it, then it's time to pack it up, go home and bake a cake. 
The photo of today's "injury" was meant as a joke leading to the tip of remembering always about those square edged sticking out on a turning like this.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


Yes these things happen and goes with the territory, you are lucky you didn't move a bit further in or you might of had a smashed bone! Also be aware of getting a "jammed" finger when when sanding a bowl, when your fingers holding sandpaper travels into the other side of the rotation causing the change in direction of force thus jamming tour finger. Believe me, it's painful.


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


Nice, Oh wait, I used that word on the last blog. Here's a new word….. Sweet…..


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


Erwin, I've already encountered that change in direction when sanding more times than I'd like to admit. It hasn't hurt my finger yet, but it does scare the bejeebies out of me when it happens. It seems to snatch my finger to the opposite side of the bowl so quick that you have to think about what caused it.
Actually, I have stopped using sandpaper on the insides of bowls now. After what you described happened often enough, I figure it was just a matter of time before I was injured like that. I am first and foremost a scroller. So I always have 3M Super 77 spray glue around. I've started gluing pieces of sandpaper to various wooden strips and such to sand insides of projects. 
It seems to be working well. I figure it's better to be safe than sorry. And when the sandpaper load up, it's easy to set aside and later tear the old paper off and glue some more on so it's ready for next time.
Does anyone else do this? Or do most people just use their hands to hold the sandpaper?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


Thank you Marty.
Can't wait to see you on Saturday.
When is a good time to call you in the next two days to make sure we have all arrangements set?


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


I don't know, that injury looks veeery serious. Ya coulda been seriously mamed or worse, got blood on the work piece!!! To prevent this from ever happening again, I strongly suggest you give up turning and send all turning supplies my way for proper disposal!!!

BTW: Nice little project. I'm looking forward to seeing the next one with curvy wings!!! That'll be an awesome looking piece!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


I just got a little close while trimming the bottom of the square wings to smooth them out and forgot how far they hung out there. When the lathe is spinning fast enough, those outer edges of a square piece of thin stock become almost invisible. 
And no, you are not getting my tools. As a matter of fact, I'm anxiously awaiting more toys for the lathe that are set to arrive from PSI by Friday. 
No I am not addicted Randy. I can stop anytime I get ready. Just watch. I will not turn anything else.

.

Today.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


Dang, err I mean I was only trying to look out for your health & safety!!!

Looks like I'll be buying lathe toys, err tools!!!


----------



## ShopTinker

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


I like it. It would make a very nice, easy to pass, salsa bowl. I've seen a couple of the bowls with curved wings. I think I like this one better.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


Sorry Randy. If I come into some money, I'll have to send you a tool or two.

Tinker, I like it too, but I'm sure the curved wing design you're referring to is exactly the idea I was going for. However, I went to far out and lopped off the part of the wing that was supposed to curved downwards. This left me with enough to make square wings, so there it is.
I like the easy to pass idea. What about someone who loves salsa and doesn't want to pass it around though?


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


That turned out nice…...there is something cool about the winged bowls…..glad to hear the injury was minor…..

Lot's of learning….


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


im really glad to see you progress in your learning to turn adventure..and to see this very nice turning is a good sight to behold…i know you will continue to do well…looking forward to the tale of blood and horror..lol…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


Thanks Jeff and Grizz.
I like the winged bowls too. It is just something about a round figure formed into the middle of a square of wood. It looks so wrong that it's right.
Grizz, blood doesn't bother me. These days if I bump something hard my skin breaks and bleeds. However, we don't need horror in the wood shop.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


That turned out to be a nice bowl despite the blood letting. "Lets be careful out there"


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


Thank you Andy.
I'm still planning on the curved wing design. 
I'm going to have to be extra careful on that one as thew wings will be curving back towards where my hands will be holding the tools.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


Your doing great William! If you have a drill press you can also use a large Forstner bit to make your chuck mortise as long as it is within the go, don't go size range for your chuck.


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


William you are going in leaps and bounds
That bowl is looking good
With regard to your injury, if you need a blood transfusion I could
fly over and donate a few pints 

Jamie


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


Jamie, I don't need a blood transfusion, but anytime you wish to fly over, you're welcome anytime.

Stefang, I thought about the forstner bit idea. Upon measuring though, I found out my largest drill bit is about an eight of an inch too small for my chuck. It's fine though. Now that I have a good way to do it, it only takes a minute to get it ready with a gouge and skew. Actually, it can be quickly enough to probably take less time than it would to undo it, go to the drill press, and go back.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Round Bowl In A Square Block*
> 
> It's funny to me. I've had several larger bowls thrown at me. I've had heavy pieces of wet wood drop on me. I've hurt my back trying to lift a piece. Then, after all that, today a small piece of dry wood spinning on the lathe brought blood from me for the first time since I started down this road learning to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. It's nothing serious. It's just a small nick. I will tell ya'll more about that later. First, on to today's adventures.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool was dropped shipped to me. It was a gift from a friend. I was told that the friend's friend swore by it and wanted my opinion on it. It is twenty-two inches long. It has a five eighths inch shaft. Set screws in the end allow you to put whatever router bit you want in it to have different profile cutters. It sounded like a good idea, so I said I'd give it a shot.
> The tools works, but I wouldn't buy it myself. I tried it in different applications. I tried presenting it with the carbide edge at different angles to the wood to see how it would act. Here is how I feel about it.
> It does a good job on spindle work, but doesn't work as good as my regular high speed steele tools. It would get the job done, but you'll have to do more sanding than you would if you just used high speed steele gounges and skew chisels.
> For bowls, trying to make sheat cuts with it is asking for a catch. If you very carefully present the edge at just the right angle, it will make shear cuts, but leaves an edge more like you used a dull scraper than a gounge.
> It works better if you present the edge like a scraper. However, the finish it leaves is rougher than my high speed steele scrapers, requiring extra sanding or having to go back over it with a sharp high speed steele tool.
> I have tried it more on bowls than spindle work. I may have a different opinion after trying it more with spindles. At this time though, I immediately pass over this tool to reach for a high speed steele tool. So, even though I may find uses for it in the future, I don't think it's worth the money.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am proud of myself. This may not seem like a big deal to some, but I cut a good recess today to mount onto my four jaw chuck. I'd been having problems with this task. My chuck doesn't hold well unless you have a square shoulder inside the recess. I was getting catches while trying to do this. I had been trying to do it with a gouge like I've seen other people do it. Today, I decided to try and finish up that shoulder with a skew just to see how it worked out. It worked perfectly. I'm learning more and more every day in turning that one shoe does not fit all when it comes to technique. What works for some may not work for others.
> 
> .
> Now onto my accomplishment of the day.
> I actually felt worse today than I did yesterday. I didn't even feel up to lifting a small piece of log as I done yesterday. I was going to have to figure out something else if I was to accomplish anything at all. I looked around the shop for a bit while waiting on the coffee to brew. I have numerous small blocks of sapelle on a shelf like table in one corner. I thought about more cube in a cubes, but those get boring after doing several. What else could I do with small blocks of wood?
> Ya'll may have noticed that a lot of my ideas are simply versions of other things I see online. Well, this is another one of those versions of something I've seen somewhere else. It is dry wood though. So I was able to actually make a finished project today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not actually how I pictured it when I started. By the time I realized it was not working as planned though, I'd already taken too much off the sides and there was no going back. I still think it turned out nice though for someone with my limited experience.
> It is made out of a 6×6x2.5 inch block of sapelle. It has two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. It isn't a great finish, but it's what I had immediately on hand. I enjoyed this project and plan on making more versions of this design. Next time though, I will plan on curving those wings down, as I originally planned, before I get to having too much fun and take away too much material.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, about the nick on my little finger that brought blood, and it is my lesson of the day.
> When turning something like this, remember that just because the lathe is spinning so fast that you can't see those little square wings hanging out there, they are still there. If you forget that little fact, even for a split second, it will bite you.


Coming right on along William. Remember DUCK!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*A Good Day*

I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing. 
I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
































It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.

.

Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck. 
Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.

.

While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had. 
I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower. 
So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.








I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down. 
I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece. 
This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.








For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.

While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


----------



## LittlePaw

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


Well, William . . . looks like you're just having way too much fun for one person!  I should try turning sometime, but maybe I should take a lesson or two before doing?


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


well i really love the bowl with the burn lines, that is a great idea…your doing really well and im enjoying seeing you come to your own on this, i had and have no doubt that you will become a fine turner, if you do it as well as you scroll then i can see some really nice work coming…be careful and have fun…..


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


ps… i can picture that bowl full of corn flakes…or some chocolate oatmeal…tell us what you eat out of it first…


----------



## sras

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


It's good to hear you are feeling better. Lathe work looks good too!


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


Grizz, I want to hear more about this chocolate oatmeal…..


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


Thank you all.

Grizz, you will have a bowl for your corn flakes soon enough. You've got to wait for me to get some better stock though, unless you'd rather wait three to six months for one of these green bowls I've turned to dry.
I will be making you a bowl though. However, these bowls are so small I'm calling them candy dishes. They are great practice though. So far, I've turned small and large, and in my opinion, the small ones are harder than the large ones. The large ones you have plenty of room to work. On these small ones, one wrong move and there's a catch. So, I figure that until I can chuck up some larger wood, these are great practice. 
I am enjoying it though. 
I will have to turn green wood. However, I find I am enjoying doing these finished projects too. So, I think I need to get some green turned so it can start drying. Then in the meantime, I may have to start gluing up stock to turn finished projects. I'll get it all worked out eventually.

LittlePaw, I would have loved to have taken some professionally taught lessons. Noone in my area was teaching them though. So I had to learn through the interent, videos, and asking a lot of questions to anyone who would give me the time.

sras, thank you.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


Marty, I missed that somehow.
I don't eat chocolate, but you have me interested as well now.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


oh it is fantastic, this is what i came up with and i am hooked …i cook it in the microwave but you can do this on the stove top, for each serving of oatmeal i add a heaping spoonful of hot coco mix and a 1/2 teaspoon of coco, i then cook it until done , i add real butter and my sweetner , and i sometimes add a tablespoon of brown sugar, im a diabetic , so its only sometimes…its so chocolaty and yummy…i love oatmeal and now with this added ingredients…man oh man…try it…let me know what you think


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


We better stick with the microwave directions. I don't think William's bowls are stove top proof. Will Starbucks cocoa powder work???


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


I don't like chocolate Grizz, but I used to love brown sugar in my oatmeal.
Now shut up.
My blood sugar would shoot sky high if I ate oat meal with as much brown sugar as I used to eat in it.
I don't even want to know what chocolate oat meal would do to me.

It sounds though like you don't need a corn flake bowl though.
It sounds like you need an extra large oat meal bowl.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


try the starbucks, i have not ever had it , but give it a whirl…well William, all i can say is sometimes you gotta have something yummy you really like, so …..........but you gotta do what you gotta do..were all so different, one thing can make one persons sugar go higher then someone else…but …yea your right…i actually have a large bowl i use in the micro…its porcilin …but i will wait for the day when you want to send me that bowl, no hurry that i know of…


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


oh and how can you not like chocolate…. that's insane…...i love it, that's all i know, and dark chocolate at that, my sister just sent me some peanut butter and dark chocolate cookies for my birthday, oh they are good, she cooks with all healthy ingredients…so there not to bad, sugar wise…but… William…not like chocolate , im mortified…lol


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


So when I leave Williams, I'm going to Grizz's for chocolate oatmeal and peanut butter and dark chocolate cookies…..


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


It may surprise you Grizz, but I'm not big on sweets at all, of no kind.
My favorite desert is key lime pie.
Anything sweeter than that I usually won't eat it.
Brown sugar in oat meal used to be a weakness of mine though.
I do like my wife's home made lemon cake, but I rake the icing off and give to one of the kids. I only like the lemon cake part of it. The icing it too sweet.

Chocolate is another one of those things to me that is just too sweet. 
As you can see, I like sweets that aren't too sweet, like lemon cake and lime pie.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


Hey Marty, Grizz is in Alabama.


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


Looking good, William! I like the job you did with those burn lines. Much better than my first attempt.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


Thanks Rich.
It wasn't as complicated as I've heard some people make it out to be.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


NOT like chocolate??? You ain't right!!!

I'm glad you are feeling a little better! Perhaps it has something to do with the great bowls you are creating!!!

Yes, I enjoy laughing (hopefully, with you) at your opps'!!! However, I'm more pleased by your successes!!!

The way I see it, is if you can turn a gorgeous bowl….
I should have no problem!!! ;^)

Keep up the practice and learning! I won't be too far behind you asking for help & tips!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


Randy, thanks, and I do have a tip for you after all.
It just took me a little time to think of a good one for you today.

Buy the best tools you can afford.
I am finding as I go along that good sharp tools are way more important than the lathe. 
I've got a mixture now of Benjamin's Best from PSI, and Harbour Freight (they are the good ones Rich and I told you about before).
Now that I've got enough of the PSI tools (more expensive, but not too bad) to do most everything I do at moment, I want to go throw the HF tools across the road in discust. 
I used to think those HF tools were ideal for a beginner.
Now that I'm getting used to better tools though that hold an edge longer than thirty seconds, I don't think so anymore.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


Thanks for the heads up!

I was seriously considering the "Benjamin Best" and not the HF chisels. It's good you verified the wisdom of my choice. Dang, I is smartz!!!


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


Sorry William after reading about the chocolate oatmeal my mind went blank
That bowl with the cut outs is a neat idea
Your getting on in leaps and bounds,
Jamie


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


Do some research Randy before deciding. There are other brands out there. I don't know what your budget is. I also don't know about these other brands. I've read others who say there is also a huge difference between Bejamin's Best and higher priced tools. In my opinion though, from what I've found thus far, Benjamin's Best is the best I've seen as far as bang for your buck.

Jamie, thank you. 
I think I'm doing good considering where I was at on this just a few short weeks ago. I am loving wood turning too. It is just like scrolling is to me. I can sit and think of so many ideas on things to do that I'll never run out of things to do. 
I do have to say this though. The work I've done so far has not been my own ideas. It is all versions of things I've already seen and want to try my hand at. However, I don't know if I've ever come up with anything completely unique. When you look around at any kind of wood work, there's so much out there that, even if you try to come up with something original, you find out later that someone, somewhere, has already done it. It's like the old saying, there's nothing new under the sun.

I hope you guys enjoy ya'll cholcolate. Someone eat my share of it. It seems to fascinate some of my friends here, but I really do not like chocolate.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


Your bowl looks really good William. I can hardly believe how fast you are progressing! The burning is a nice touch. Another way to make plain turnings more interesting is to add beads and coves or other decoration at transition points or wherever they might look nice. When you look at other's turnings you might find it interesting to analyze their designs with that in mind, both the ones you like and those you don't like. I like that you are already experimenting a lot and trying out different forms and such. That, to me is the best way to learn a lot and also to build self-confidence in your turning skills. It's also amazing how much all the different woodworking skills can influence each other. I started with turning and learned about general woodworking afterward. You are coming at turning from the other direction and I think that will be a great benefit to you.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


I'm glad you like them Stefang, because you have been one of the biggest helps to me in all the starts and stops when I was trying to get going. 
I do analyze all the different turnings I see. I try to pick out design elements I like, the ones I don't like, but also try to figure out how I can apply the ones I don't like in a different style to where I will like them. I think this is a good way to learn to add to my box of tricks as many different styles and methods as I possibly can. If it don't help me in the long run, it sure won't hurt me. Besides, I enjoy learning new things. I told one of my sons just yesterday, when you get to a point in life where you can't learn something new, they may as well go ahead and put you in the ground.
I am really enjoying turning and am finding it to be another form of wood working that I can work around my health issues, like scrolling. I believe scrolling and turning is going to wind up being my two main mediums for my wood working. I'm glad I found turning though. I've been looking for something besides scrolling for a while. While I love scrolling, I get sort of burned out on it every now and then. I used to be able to find very challenging scrolling projects. It has gotten to the point that there is little challenge in even the most difficult scrolling pieces. I know I could have tried something like marquetry or something, but I felt a need to move in a completely different direction, away from flat work like scrolling for a while. Boy am I glad I did!

It's intereesting you bring up how you and I have approached learning to turn from opposite ends of the spectrum. Turning is a whole different ball game isn't it? I was talking to a friend today who asked me what is my recent fascination with the lathe. I started going on and on about how much different it is than anything I've done in wood working till now. 
First of all, it is round work instead of flat. On the other hand, like the square based bowls I've been playing with, you can fit square looks in the designs too. As a matter of fact, the possibilities are endless.
Also, most other forms of wood work, you hold the wood stable and move the tool into the wood. Turning is the complete opposite. The hold the tools stationary pretty much, and let the wood come to the tool.
Of course you know all this, but I was just letting you know how I started telling him all this. 
That's about as far as I got before I could tell he really wasn't all that interested.
So I flipped down my face shield and flipped the lathe back on.

No turning today.
I was busy trying to spend some time with my wife today.
Tomorrow is our anniversary. She has to work though and I have company coming tomorrow, so we went out for lunch and celebrated the occasion today.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


Wow, William. I like em both, but, I like the first one a bit more. Very kool


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


Thanks Roger.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


I've got to say that I'm impressed with your rapid progress and improvement. You are doing very well and it seems that blogging about it helps firm up ideas in your mind. One thing to note: Be careful using the forstner hole as a way to grip with your chuck. If you look closely at the side of the gripping areas of your chuck, you will see that they are slightly angled to the outside and also on the inside as well. This is to keep the work from easily slipping off and go flying somewheres not intended! You will see it angles to the outside for expansion gripping and to the inside for contraction gripping. Your sides in the wood should closely match those angles. In soft woods this is not as critical as in harder woods where the chucking surfaces may not indent into the wood. Stay safe!! (I want you to be around when I stop by on my planned vacation this late summer, I'll get with you later on this!)


----------



## helluvawreck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


I hope you get over illness and get back up to speed soon. Your turnings are really looking great so keep up the good work.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Good Day*
> 
> I am not completely over this bad spell I've been having, but I did feel a lot better today than I have in about a week. So I went to the shop, all gung ho about doing something with some of those logs. I stopped short though and considered that I am supposed to have three fellow Lumberjocks visiting my shop on Saturday. I'm not completely well, so there is no sense in taking a chance on putting myself right back down by over doing it too soon. So I decided to stick with what I've been doing.
> I pulled some more dry wood off the shelf and started thinking what I could do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It still isn't exactly what I had in mind, but I'm getting there. It doesn't matter how many I do before I get it perfectly like I want. Each one done is simply more practice, and as they say, practice makes perfect.
> The middle of the bowl, the actual bowl part of it, doesn't sit on the table. It sits just on the four wings of it. I wish I could have brought it up higher to show this more, but this was only a two inch thick piece of wood to start with. I am happy with it though just to say I got this far. It seemed like for a while there that each and every bowl was a new aggrevation. It is getting now so that I have the confidence that I need to know I can hollow out a bowl without issue and I can focus more on the overall design of the piece. That in itself makes this enjoyable endeavor even more fun.
> 
> .
> 
> Also, in between pulling the wood off the shelf and actually starting to work on it, I made a quick trip to the hardware store for a single forstner bit. This was in response to Stefang's suggestion from yesterday's blog entry. You see, my largest bit, before purchasing the one I got today, was two inches, and about an eigth of an inch shy of being large enough to drill a hole for my four jaw chuck to open into. The set originally had a two and one eighth bit in it, but I damaged it long time ago doing something foolish. So the quick trip replaced the missing bit and allowed me to drill a reverse recess in the wood to mount a blank on my chuck.
> Thank you Stefang for making that suggestion. It made today's experience even more enjoyable. I usually have to use a face plate, turn a recess, and then switch to the chuck. With the ability to drill the recess though, I can now turn a bowl using my chuck alone. That eliminates having to stop and mess around with changing accessories. I have found that between various distractions, like sharpening for example, I like anything that helps save time and allows me to turn more.
> 
> .
> 
> While looking at that bowl shown above, I liked the curvature as the wood goes from the sides of the inside, flowing nicely over and down the sides to the wings. It reminded me of inside of a flower petal. This immediately made me pull another piece out and go with an idea I had.
> I don't know if I can explain this without something to show, but here goes. I had an idea to make a similar bowl as above, except, coming out of the bowl, it would curve out the same, down at a lesser angle, then back out to square wings that would stick out at a slight downward angle. I can see what I want in my mind, and it would look similar to an open flower.
> So that's what I started on. It was going nicely, until one of the square wings broke off. I was going for a delicate look and I think got a little carried away with cutting it on the thin side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not scrap it though. I just turned the other three wings off and made it into a simple bowl. Well, actually, it looked to simple at that point. So I decided to try my hand at another technique I had read about during the past week when I was down.
> I used a skew to cut three lines, two on top, and one on bottom. Then I used a length of copper wire to burn the lines. It isn't much, but just those simple lines turned a simple, plain looking bowl into what I think is a real nice piece.
> This was my first time trying this burning technique. You can bet the wire went into my large junk bowl though. Some of you may remember what I'm talking about. That's the bowl I cut through the bottom on several days ago. It is on my accessory table where I now keep small parts in. Anyway, the wire went in it because I will be playing with that burning technique some more. I like the way it looks. There's no way I could get clean lines that thin with paint or ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some readers, like Randy, who like learning lessons through my mistakes and failures, I have no "lesson of the day" today. It was a real good day. I had no issues at all. I think I only remember one catch and I know what caused it and immediately corrected that, back cut the area to give me a smooth surface, caught my gouge back above it, and rode that bevel right on in, taking that catch out of memory in the blink of an eye.
> So Randy, I'm sorry I have no hard learned lessons for you today. The sun shines on us all from time to time though.
> 
> While I still have a lot to learn, I want to take this time to thank a few people.
> Stefang, Bearpie, Rich, and Jamie, without you guys, I would have never gotten this far so quickly. Thank you all so much for all the advice and support you've given me. I hope I can count on your help in the future. One day I hope to be good enough that I too can help someone else learn this exciting avenue in wood working.
> Randy, Dave, Marty, Grizz, Jeff, Andy, and so many others that I can't even think of all your names at the moment, thank you for all the kind words, motivation, and kicks in the pants when I've needed it most. You guys are the best.


Thank you Charles.

Erwin, please PM me about your planned vacation. I would absolutely love to get a visitor.

As for the jaws, I have had an issue with this. Everything I read said the same thing you are saying, and the same thing I was thinking based on other things I had read. Then after stumbling across a video somewhere about the cheap jaws on the PSI economy chuck I have, I learned differently.
The jaws on my chuck are at a perfect ninety degrees. It has three ridges towards the outside of it on the inside and outside that help grip the work piece. With this setup, the forstner bit works well for me. Eventually though, I hope to order the better upgraded jaws that are offered for my chuck. They do have angled sides like we're talking about.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Turn, Turn, Turn, And Learn, Learn, Learn*









I don't know if anyone has noticed, but even though I've been getting better, I've only been turning out an average of about one small turning a day. The reason for this is that, being left handed, and with a bad back, the awkward way I have to lean over sometimes to take those hollowing cuts made me have to take frequent breaks. It also was leaving me hurting a lot of times. 
Then today a light bulb went off in my head and I wondered how anyone could be so foolish. There is a reason the head of my lathe rotates. 
















I started this bowl yesterday. I had friends over to the shop yesterday though and had forgotten it was still in the chuck on the lathe until I went into the shop this morning. So I finished it. It is made of sapelle and finished with boiled linseed oil.
















Next, I'd seen some of these rectangular shaped turnings on the internet and decided to give it a try. I figured that, if nothing else, it would be more practice at turning with a lot of open air. 
Actually, it seems that most everything I'm turning now I see as a learning opportunity more than anything else. Some of it may not be great, but with enough practice, I beleive I'll get there.
This is made of sycamore and finished with boiled linseed oil. I've used a lot of sycamore with flat style wood working. I thought it would be a great wood for turning. Based on what I seen with this one though, I'm not so sure it is a good wood for turning. I may try it again one day with something that doesn't have so many open areas in it. 
















Then this last bowl I also done just as practice. I am having problems sometimes when I get into tight posts while hollowing. On things a tad larger, I have no issues. If my angle of approach on my tools isn't right, I have plenty of time to correct myself and ride the bevel in. However, in tight spots, there is little time, if any, and it is easy to get a catch if you don't go in correctly and swiftly turn the gouge a bit to ride that bevel. 
This bowl is only three inches wide. That made for a nice small area to work with repeatedly to get it hollowed out all the way in. 
This one is also sapelle, and is also finished with boiled linseed oil.

All this brings me to a question, or a few, for you wood turners out there.
What type of finish do you all use?
What is best for bowls?
What finish will allow one to use a bowl for liquids, such as soup or milk in cereal, be washed in water, and still hold up over time?
Will the finished bowl still wick up liquids and constantly expand and contract?
What is the best way to get that shiny, almost wet look on finished pieces?
I guess the simple way will be to just say I need all the finishing advice I can get. I know I need more sandpaper. I have no where near the grit selection I know I'm going to need if I want the best results. As soon as I'm able to afford it, I will get some sand paper. In the mean time, I want to start learning all I can about finishes. I hope to soon make some pieces that can be in a finished state and be used in my own kitchen, and I have a few friends I wish to make finished bowls for.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn, Turn, Turn, And Learn, Learn, Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if anyone has noticed, but even though I've been getting better, I've only been turning out an average of about one small turning a day. The reason for this is that, being left handed, and with a bad back, the awkward way I have to lean over sometimes to take those hollowing cuts made me have to take frequent breaks. It also was leaving me hurting a lot of times.
> Then today a light bulb went off in my head and I wondered how anyone could be so foolish. There is a reason the head of my lathe rotates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started this bowl yesterday. I had friends over to the shop yesterday though and had forgotten it was still in the chuck on the lathe until I went into the shop this morning. So I finished it. It is made of sapelle and finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I'd seen some of these rectangular shaped turnings on the internet and decided to give it a try. I figured that, if nothing else, it would be more practice at turning with a lot of open air.
> Actually, it seems that most everything I'm turning now I see as a learning opportunity more than anything else. Some of it may not be great, but with enough practice, I beleive I'll get there.
> This is made of sycamore and finished with boiled linseed oil. I've used a lot of sycamore with flat style wood working. I thought it would be a great wood for turning. Based on what I seen with this one though, I'm not so sure it is a good wood for turning. I may try it again one day with something that doesn't have so many open areas in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then this last bowl I also done just as practice. I am having problems sometimes when I get into tight posts while hollowing. On things a tad larger, I have no issues. If my angle of approach on my tools isn't right, I have plenty of time to correct myself and ride the bevel in. However, in tight spots, there is little time, if any, and it is easy to get a catch if you don't go in correctly and swiftly turn the gouge a bit to ride that bevel.
> This bowl is only three inches wide. That made for a nice small area to work with repeatedly to get it hollowed out all the way in.
> This one is also sapelle, and is also finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> All this brings me to a question, or a few, for you wood turners out there.
> What type of finish do you all use?
> What is best for bowls?
> What finish will allow one to use a bowl for liquids, such as soup or milk in cereal, be washed in water, and still hold up over time?
> Will the finished bowl still wick up liquids and constantly expand and contract?
> What is the best way to get that shiny, almost wet look on finished pieces?
> I guess the simple way will be to just say I need all the finishing advice I can get. I know I need more sandpaper. I have no where near the grit selection I know I'm going to need if I want the best results. As soon as I'm able to afford it, I will get some sand paper. In the mean time, I want to start learning all I can about finishes. I hope to soon make some pieces that can be in a finished state and be used in my own kitchen, and I have a few friends I wish to make finished bowls for.


wow….your doing some really good turning, i can see that grasshopper has progressed…i cant help you with your question, i have heard of finishes that are for the very reason you stated, but i dont remember …im sure you can find that out with no problem…the bows are beautiful william..i hope you feel better tomorrow…grizz


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn, Turn, Turn, And Learn, Learn, Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if anyone has noticed, but even though I've been getting better, I've only been turning out an average of about one small turning a day. The reason for this is that, being left handed, and with a bad back, the awkward way I have to lean over sometimes to take those hollowing cuts made me have to take frequent breaks. It also was leaving me hurting a lot of times.
> Then today a light bulb went off in my head and I wondered how anyone could be so foolish. There is a reason the head of my lathe rotates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started this bowl yesterday. I had friends over to the shop yesterday though and had forgotten it was still in the chuck on the lathe until I went into the shop this morning. So I finished it. It is made of sapelle and finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I'd seen some of these rectangular shaped turnings on the internet and decided to give it a try. I figured that, if nothing else, it would be more practice at turning with a lot of open air.
> Actually, it seems that most everything I'm turning now I see as a learning opportunity more than anything else. Some of it may not be great, but with enough practice, I beleive I'll get there.
> This is made of sycamore and finished with boiled linseed oil. I've used a lot of sycamore with flat style wood working. I thought it would be a great wood for turning. Based on what I seen with this one though, I'm not so sure it is a good wood for turning. I may try it again one day with something that doesn't have so many open areas in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then this last bowl I also done just as practice. I am having problems sometimes when I get into tight posts while hollowing. On things a tad larger, I have no issues. If my angle of approach on my tools isn't right, I have plenty of time to correct myself and ride the bevel in. However, in tight spots, there is little time, if any, and it is easy to get a catch if you don't go in correctly and swiftly turn the gouge a bit to ride that bevel.
> This bowl is only three inches wide. That made for a nice small area to work with repeatedly to get it hollowed out all the way in.
> This one is also sapelle, and is also finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> All this brings me to a question, or a few, for you wood turners out there.
> What type of finish do you all use?
> What is best for bowls?
> What finish will allow one to use a bowl for liquids, such as soup or milk in cereal, be washed in water, and still hold up over time?
> Will the finished bowl still wick up liquids and constantly expand and contract?
> What is the best way to get that shiny, almost wet look on finished pieces?
> I guess the simple way will be to just say I need all the finishing advice I can get. I know I need more sandpaper. I have no where near the grit selection I know I'm going to need if I want the best results. As soon as I'm able to afford it, I will get some sand paper. In the mean time, I want to start learning all I can about finishes. I hope to soon make some pieces that can be in a finished state and be used in my own kitchen, and I have a few friends I wish to make finished bowls for.


Thanks Grizz.
At least I know what has me today.
I stood too much yesterday.
Dave, Eddie, and Marty came to the shop.
I knew hafway through the day I was standing too much, 
But I was having such a good time I figured I would just pay for it later.

I hope to get some answers here,
If not, I'll just have to do some research.


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn, Turn, Turn, And Learn, Learn, Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if anyone has noticed, but even though I've been getting better, I've only been turning out an average of about one small turning a day. The reason for this is that, being left handed, and with a bad back, the awkward way I have to lean over sometimes to take those hollowing cuts made me have to take frequent breaks. It also was leaving me hurting a lot of times.
> Then today a light bulb went off in my head and I wondered how anyone could be so foolish. There is a reason the head of my lathe rotates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started this bowl yesterday. I had friends over to the shop yesterday though and had forgotten it was still in the chuck on the lathe until I went into the shop this morning. So I finished it. It is made of sapelle and finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I'd seen some of these rectangular shaped turnings on the internet and decided to give it a try. I figured that, if nothing else, it would be more practice at turning with a lot of open air.
> Actually, it seems that most everything I'm turning now I see as a learning opportunity more than anything else. Some of it may not be great, but with enough practice, I beleive I'll get there.
> This is made of sycamore and finished with boiled linseed oil. I've used a lot of sycamore with flat style wood working. I thought it would be a great wood for turning. Based on what I seen with this one though, I'm not so sure it is a good wood for turning. I may try it again one day with something that doesn't have so many open areas in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then this last bowl I also done just as practice. I am having problems sometimes when I get into tight posts while hollowing. On things a tad larger, I have no issues. If my angle of approach on my tools isn't right, I have plenty of time to correct myself and ride the bevel in. However, in tight spots, there is little time, if any, and it is easy to get a catch if you don't go in correctly and swiftly turn the gouge a bit to ride that bevel.
> This bowl is only three inches wide. That made for a nice small area to work with repeatedly to get it hollowed out all the way in.
> This one is also sapelle, and is also finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> All this brings me to a question, or a few, for you wood turners out there.
> What type of finish do you all use?
> What is best for bowls?
> What finish will allow one to use a bowl for liquids, such as soup or milk in cereal, be washed in water, and still hold up over time?
> Will the finished bowl still wick up liquids and constantly expand and contract?
> What is the best way to get that shiny, almost wet look on finished pieces?
> I guess the simple way will be to just say I need all the finishing advice I can get. I know I need more sandpaper. I have no where near the grit selection I know I'm going to need if I want the best results. As soon as I'm able to afford it, I will get some sand paper. In the mean time, I want to start learning all I can about finishes. I hope to soon make some pieces that can be in a finished state and be used in my own kitchen, and I have a few friends I wish to make finished bowls for.


Man, I have a small box of finishes that I use for my turnings. I'm still experimenting with them. For things that I want to be food safe, I use either Howard Butcher Block Conditioner, which is food grade mineral oil, beeswax and carnauba wax, or a mineral oil and beeswax combo, where I put a coat of mineral oil on the piece, let it soak in a bit, put another coat on and then immediately cover that coat with beeswax to seal it into the piece.

I've also used friction polish, both the premade Hut stuff and a homemade one that I learned from Cap'n Eddie called OB's shine juice. That one is a mix of equal parts BLO, DNA and clear shellac. I like that one a lot for small things like bottle stoppers.

I also have some General Finishes Woodturner's Finish, which is food safe. I only used it once and don't think I applied it right because it just stayed kind of flat looking. I've seen other people that use it and theirs come out nice and shiny and wet looking.

Another thing I've used for bowls and other things I want to be food safe is Mahoney's Utility Finish walnut oil. That's a nice easy wipe on finish. It's a bit shiny looking, but not quite what it sounds like you're looking for.

There's always the classics: Danish Oil/Tung Oil, wipe on Poly and Lacquer. I think pretty much any finish can be used as though it were food safe once it's cured properly. Just experiment and find one that you like.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn, Turn, Turn, And Learn, Learn, Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if anyone has noticed, but even though I've been getting better, I've only been turning out an average of about one small turning a day. The reason for this is that, being left handed, and with a bad back, the awkward way I have to lean over sometimes to take those hollowing cuts made me have to take frequent breaks. It also was leaving me hurting a lot of times.
> Then today a light bulb went off in my head and I wondered how anyone could be so foolish. There is a reason the head of my lathe rotates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started this bowl yesterday. I had friends over to the shop yesterday though and had forgotten it was still in the chuck on the lathe until I went into the shop this morning. So I finished it. It is made of sapelle and finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I'd seen some of these rectangular shaped turnings on the internet and decided to give it a try. I figured that, if nothing else, it would be more practice at turning with a lot of open air.
> Actually, it seems that most everything I'm turning now I see as a learning opportunity more than anything else. Some of it may not be great, but with enough practice, I beleive I'll get there.
> This is made of sycamore and finished with boiled linseed oil. I've used a lot of sycamore with flat style wood working. I thought it would be a great wood for turning. Based on what I seen with this one though, I'm not so sure it is a good wood for turning. I may try it again one day with something that doesn't have so many open areas in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then this last bowl I also done just as practice. I am having problems sometimes when I get into tight posts while hollowing. On things a tad larger, I have no issues. If my angle of approach on my tools isn't right, I have plenty of time to correct myself and ride the bevel in. However, in tight spots, there is little time, if any, and it is easy to get a catch if you don't go in correctly and swiftly turn the gouge a bit to ride that bevel.
> This bowl is only three inches wide. That made for a nice small area to work with repeatedly to get it hollowed out all the way in.
> This one is also sapelle, and is also finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> All this brings me to a question, or a few, for you wood turners out there.
> What type of finish do you all use?
> What is best for bowls?
> What finish will allow one to use a bowl for liquids, such as soup or milk in cereal, be washed in water, and still hold up over time?
> Will the finished bowl still wick up liquids and constantly expand and contract?
> What is the best way to get that shiny, almost wet look on finished pieces?
> I guess the simple way will be to just say I need all the finishing advice I can get. I know I need more sandpaper. I have no where near the grit selection I know I'm going to need if I want the best results. As soon as I'm able to afford it, I will get some sand paper. In the mean time, I want to start learning all I can about finishes. I hope to soon make some pieces that can be in a finished state and be used in my own kitchen, and I have a few friends I wish to make finished bowls for.


Thanks Rich.
It appears the options are aplenty.
I finish is one thing. The thing I don't know about is sealing the wood so it'll be sealed completely. 
My grandmother has some mixing bowls made of wood. She'd had them for years. She used them for everything, washed them in soap and water, dried them, and kept using them. I never thought much about it when I was a kid. Not I know more about wood though, and it seems I'm even more confused. I'm trying to figure out how one can continuously wet wood, I'm talking soaking in water, and it not damage the wood as it dries over and over again. 
It seems it must be sealed properly somehow. I guess I just need to experiment with how.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn, Turn, Turn, And Learn, Learn, Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if anyone has noticed, but even though I've been getting better, I've only been turning out an average of about one small turning a day. The reason for this is that, being left handed, and with a bad back, the awkward way I have to lean over sometimes to take those hollowing cuts made me have to take frequent breaks. It also was leaving me hurting a lot of times.
> Then today a light bulb went off in my head and I wondered how anyone could be so foolish. There is a reason the head of my lathe rotates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started this bowl yesterday. I had friends over to the shop yesterday though and had forgotten it was still in the chuck on the lathe until I went into the shop this morning. So I finished it. It is made of sapelle and finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I'd seen some of these rectangular shaped turnings on the internet and decided to give it a try. I figured that, if nothing else, it would be more practice at turning with a lot of open air.
> Actually, it seems that most everything I'm turning now I see as a learning opportunity more than anything else. Some of it may not be great, but with enough practice, I beleive I'll get there.
> This is made of sycamore and finished with boiled linseed oil. I've used a lot of sycamore with flat style wood working. I thought it would be a great wood for turning. Based on what I seen with this one though, I'm not so sure it is a good wood for turning. I may try it again one day with something that doesn't have so many open areas in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then this last bowl I also done just as practice. I am having problems sometimes when I get into tight posts while hollowing. On things a tad larger, I have no issues. If my angle of approach on my tools isn't right, I have plenty of time to correct myself and ride the bevel in. However, in tight spots, there is little time, if any, and it is easy to get a catch if you don't go in correctly and swiftly turn the gouge a bit to ride that bevel.
> This bowl is only three inches wide. That made for a nice small area to work with repeatedly to get it hollowed out all the way in.
> This one is also sapelle, and is also finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> All this brings me to a question, or a few, for you wood turners out there.
> What type of finish do you all use?
> What is best for bowls?
> What finish will allow one to use a bowl for liquids, such as soup or milk in cereal, be washed in water, and still hold up over time?
> Will the finished bowl still wick up liquids and constantly expand and contract?
> What is the best way to get that shiny, almost wet look on finished pieces?
> I guess the simple way will be to just say I need all the finishing advice I can get. I know I need more sandpaper. I have no where near the grit selection I know I'm going to need if I want the best results. As soon as I'm able to afford it, I will get some sand paper. In the mean time, I want to start learning all I can about finishes. I hope to soon make some pieces that can be in a finished state and be used in my own kitchen, and I have a few friends I wish to make finished bowls for.


William,
It is clearly obvious that your are learning alot and able to put that new found knowledge into practice. Nice looking practice runs ya got there!!!

I'm almost afraid to set up my lathe…
for fear of becoming as addicted as you!!!

Love your ramblings, err sharing of new knowledge!!! Rest up and turn, turn, turn….


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn, Turn, Turn, And Learn, Learn, Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if anyone has noticed, but even though I've been getting better, I've only been turning out an average of about one small turning a day. The reason for this is that, being left handed, and with a bad back, the awkward way I have to lean over sometimes to take those hollowing cuts made me have to take frequent breaks. It also was leaving me hurting a lot of times.
> Then today a light bulb went off in my head and I wondered how anyone could be so foolish. There is a reason the head of my lathe rotates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started this bowl yesterday. I had friends over to the shop yesterday though and had forgotten it was still in the chuck on the lathe until I went into the shop this morning. So I finished it. It is made of sapelle and finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I'd seen some of these rectangular shaped turnings on the internet and decided to give it a try. I figured that, if nothing else, it would be more practice at turning with a lot of open air.
> Actually, it seems that most everything I'm turning now I see as a learning opportunity more than anything else. Some of it may not be great, but with enough practice, I beleive I'll get there.
> This is made of sycamore and finished with boiled linseed oil. I've used a lot of sycamore with flat style wood working. I thought it would be a great wood for turning. Based on what I seen with this one though, I'm not so sure it is a good wood for turning. I may try it again one day with something that doesn't have so many open areas in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then this last bowl I also done just as practice. I am having problems sometimes when I get into tight posts while hollowing. On things a tad larger, I have no issues. If my angle of approach on my tools isn't right, I have plenty of time to correct myself and ride the bevel in. However, in tight spots, there is little time, if any, and it is easy to get a catch if you don't go in correctly and swiftly turn the gouge a bit to ride that bevel.
> This bowl is only three inches wide. That made for a nice small area to work with repeatedly to get it hollowed out all the way in.
> This one is also sapelle, and is also finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> All this brings me to a question, or a few, for you wood turners out there.
> What type of finish do you all use?
> What is best for bowls?
> What finish will allow one to use a bowl for liquids, such as soup or milk in cereal, be washed in water, and still hold up over time?
> Will the finished bowl still wick up liquids and constantly expand and contract?
> What is the best way to get that shiny, almost wet look on finished pieces?
> I guess the simple way will be to just say I need all the finishing advice I can get. I know I need more sandpaper. I have no where near the grit selection I know I'm going to need if I want the best results. As soon as I'm able to afford it, I will get some sand paper. In the mean time, I want to start learning all I can about finishes. I hope to soon make some pieces that can be in a finished state and be used in my own kitchen, and I have a few friends I wish to make finished bowls for.


Hi William. Woods which will be used for foods should be chosen for their neutrality. That is, some woods impart a taste of their own to milk and foods. This may be ok for hickory BBQ, but not good with a lot of other foods. I like to use birch with food serving articles for that reason. It also has some bacteria resistance. Those articles can be finished, but I think it is a waste of time, since the finish disappears quickly anyway, so I leave these pieces unfinished. The washing and drying doesn't hurt them a bit, but I wouldn't wash them in the dishwasher. I have read up on the toxity of the various finishes and they all say that the bad stuff is in the thinners, and that when it dries out all finishes are food safe. Don't take my word on that, you should read up on it to satisfy yourself with such an important safety issue.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn, Turn, Turn, And Learn, Learn, Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if anyone has noticed, but even though I've been getting better, I've only been turning out an average of about one small turning a day. The reason for this is that, being left handed, and with a bad back, the awkward way I have to lean over sometimes to take those hollowing cuts made me have to take frequent breaks. It also was leaving me hurting a lot of times.
> Then today a light bulb went off in my head and I wondered how anyone could be so foolish. There is a reason the head of my lathe rotates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started this bowl yesterday. I had friends over to the shop yesterday though and had forgotten it was still in the chuck on the lathe until I went into the shop this morning. So I finished it. It is made of sapelle and finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I'd seen some of these rectangular shaped turnings on the internet and decided to give it a try. I figured that, if nothing else, it would be more practice at turning with a lot of open air.
> Actually, it seems that most everything I'm turning now I see as a learning opportunity more than anything else. Some of it may not be great, but with enough practice, I beleive I'll get there.
> This is made of sycamore and finished with boiled linseed oil. I've used a lot of sycamore with flat style wood working. I thought it would be a great wood for turning. Based on what I seen with this one though, I'm not so sure it is a good wood for turning. I may try it again one day with something that doesn't have so many open areas in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then this last bowl I also done just as practice. I am having problems sometimes when I get into tight posts while hollowing. On things a tad larger, I have no issues. If my angle of approach on my tools isn't right, I have plenty of time to correct myself and ride the bevel in. However, in tight spots, there is little time, if any, and it is easy to get a catch if you don't go in correctly and swiftly turn the gouge a bit to ride that bevel.
> This bowl is only three inches wide. That made for a nice small area to work with repeatedly to get it hollowed out all the way in.
> This one is also sapelle, and is also finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> All this brings me to a question, or a few, for you wood turners out there.
> What type of finish do you all use?
> What is best for bowls?
> What finish will allow one to use a bowl for liquids, such as soup or milk in cereal, be washed in water, and still hold up over time?
> Will the finished bowl still wick up liquids and constantly expand and contract?
> What is the best way to get that shiny, almost wet look on finished pieces?
> I guess the simple way will be to just say I need all the finishing advice I can get. I know I need more sandpaper. I have no where near the grit selection I know I'm going to need if I want the best results. As soon as I'm able to afford it, I will get some sand paper. In the mean time, I want to start learning all I can about finishes. I hope to soon make some pieces that can be in a finished state and be used in my own kitchen, and I have a few friends I wish to make finished bowls for.


Looking good there William…....great progress!


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn, Turn, Turn, And Learn, Learn, Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if anyone has noticed, but even though I've been getting better, I've only been turning out an average of about one small turning a day. The reason for this is that, being left handed, and with a bad back, the awkward way I have to lean over sometimes to take those hollowing cuts made me have to take frequent breaks. It also was leaving me hurting a lot of times.
> Then today a light bulb went off in my head and I wondered how anyone could be so foolish. There is a reason the head of my lathe rotates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started this bowl yesterday. I had friends over to the shop yesterday though and had forgotten it was still in the chuck on the lathe until I went into the shop this morning. So I finished it. It is made of sapelle and finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I'd seen some of these rectangular shaped turnings on the internet and decided to give it a try. I figured that, if nothing else, it would be more practice at turning with a lot of open air.
> Actually, it seems that most everything I'm turning now I see as a learning opportunity more than anything else. Some of it may not be great, but with enough practice, I beleive I'll get there.
> This is made of sycamore and finished with boiled linseed oil. I've used a lot of sycamore with flat style wood working. I thought it would be a great wood for turning. Based on what I seen with this one though, I'm not so sure it is a good wood for turning. I may try it again one day with something that doesn't have so many open areas in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then this last bowl I also done just as practice. I am having problems sometimes when I get into tight posts while hollowing. On things a tad larger, I have no issues. If my angle of approach on my tools isn't right, I have plenty of time to correct myself and ride the bevel in. However, in tight spots, there is little time, if any, and it is easy to get a catch if you don't go in correctly and swiftly turn the gouge a bit to ride that bevel.
> This bowl is only three inches wide. That made for a nice small area to work with repeatedly to get it hollowed out all the way in.
> This one is also sapelle, and is also finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> All this brings me to a question, or a few, for you wood turners out there.
> What type of finish do you all use?
> What is best for bowls?
> What finish will allow one to use a bowl for liquids, such as soup or milk in cereal, be washed in water, and still hold up over time?
> Will the finished bowl still wick up liquids and constantly expand and contract?
> What is the best way to get that shiny, almost wet look on finished pieces?
> I guess the simple way will be to just say I need all the finishing advice I can get. I know I need more sandpaper. I have no where near the grit selection I know I'm going to need if I want the best results. As soon as I'm able to afford it, I will get some sand paper. In the mean time, I want to start learning all I can about finishes. I hope to soon make some pieces that can be in a finished state and be used in my own kitchen, and I have a few friends I wish to make finished bowls for.


William your really getting the hang of it.
There are lots of finishes availible for hot liquids and as many opinions on
which is best
My preferred finish for a utilitarian piece, is putting it into a deep pan chip
fryer with sunflower oil.
If it is wet wood be careful as it is the same as wet chips/French fries
Once cool I use a Beeswax Caranuba mix.
This is not for looks it is for use.

Jamie


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn, Turn, Turn, And Learn, Learn, Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if anyone has noticed, but even though I've been getting better, I've only been turning out an average of about one small turning a day. The reason for this is that, being left handed, and with a bad back, the awkward way I have to lean over sometimes to take those hollowing cuts made me have to take frequent breaks. It also was leaving me hurting a lot of times.
> Then today a light bulb went off in my head and I wondered how anyone could be so foolish. There is a reason the head of my lathe rotates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started this bowl yesterday. I had friends over to the shop yesterday though and had forgotten it was still in the chuck on the lathe until I went into the shop this morning. So I finished it. It is made of sapelle and finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I'd seen some of these rectangular shaped turnings on the internet and decided to give it a try. I figured that, if nothing else, it would be more practice at turning with a lot of open air.
> Actually, it seems that most everything I'm turning now I see as a learning opportunity more than anything else. Some of it may not be great, but with enough practice, I beleive I'll get there.
> This is made of sycamore and finished with boiled linseed oil. I've used a lot of sycamore with flat style wood working. I thought it would be a great wood for turning. Based on what I seen with this one though, I'm not so sure it is a good wood for turning. I may try it again one day with something that doesn't have so many open areas in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then this last bowl I also done just as practice. I am having problems sometimes when I get into tight posts while hollowing. On things a tad larger, I have no issues. If my angle of approach on my tools isn't right, I have plenty of time to correct myself and ride the bevel in. However, in tight spots, there is little time, if any, and it is easy to get a catch if you don't go in correctly and swiftly turn the gouge a bit to ride that bevel.
> This bowl is only three inches wide. That made for a nice small area to work with repeatedly to get it hollowed out all the way in.
> This one is also sapelle, and is also finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> All this brings me to a question, or a few, for you wood turners out there.
> What type of finish do you all use?
> What is best for bowls?
> What finish will allow one to use a bowl for liquids, such as soup or milk in cereal, be washed in water, and still hold up over time?
> Will the finished bowl still wick up liquids and constantly expand and contract?
> What is the best way to get that shiny, almost wet look on finished pieces?
> I guess the simple way will be to just say I need all the finishing advice I can get. I know I need more sandpaper. I have no where near the grit selection I know I'm going to need if I want the best results. As soon as I'm able to afford it, I will get some sand paper. In the mean time, I want to start learning all I can about finishes. I hope to soon make some pieces that can be in a finished state and be used in my own kitchen, and I have a few friends I wish to make finished bowls for.


Thanks guys.
Somewhere around here I have a thick book that details different properties of woods, such as stability, strength, and toxidity, among other things. It looks like I need to pull it out, dust it off, and put it besides the bed for my new bedtime reading material.

Randy, go ahead and set it up. It's not addicting at all. I can stop anytime I want. Now, I must finish up this reply. I hear a lathe at the shop calling my name.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn, Turn, Turn, And Learn, Learn, Learn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if anyone has noticed, but even though I've been getting better, I've only been turning out an average of about one small turning a day. The reason for this is that, being left handed, and with a bad back, the awkward way I have to lean over sometimes to take those hollowing cuts made me have to take frequent breaks. It also was leaving me hurting a lot of times.
> Then today a light bulb went off in my head and I wondered how anyone could be so foolish. There is a reason the head of my lathe rotates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started this bowl yesterday. I had friends over to the shop yesterday though and had forgotten it was still in the chuck on the lathe until I went into the shop this morning. So I finished it. It is made of sapelle and finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I'd seen some of these rectangular shaped turnings on the internet and decided to give it a try. I figured that, if nothing else, it would be more practice at turning with a lot of open air.
> Actually, it seems that most everything I'm turning now I see as a learning opportunity more than anything else. Some of it may not be great, but with enough practice, I beleive I'll get there.
> This is made of sycamore and finished with boiled linseed oil. I've used a lot of sycamore with flat style wood working. I thought it would be a great wood for turning. Based on what I seen with this one though, I'm not so sure it is a good wood for turning. I may try it again one day with something that doesn't have so many open areas in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then this last bowl I also done just as practice. I am having problems sometimes when I get into tight posts while hollowing. On things a tad larger, I have no issues. If my angle of approach on my tools isn't right, I have plenty of time to correct myself and ride the bevel in. However, in tight spots, there is little time, if any, and it is easy to get a catch if you don't go in correctly and swiftly turn the gouge a bit to ride that bevel.
> This bowl is only three inches wide. That made for a nice small area to work with repeatedly to get it hollowed out all the way in.
> This one is also sapelle, and is also finished with boiled linseed oil.
> 
> All this brings me to a question, or a few, for you wood turners out there.
> What type of finish do you all use?
> What is best for bowls?
> What finish will allow one to use a bowl for liquids, such as soup or milk in cereal, be washed in water, and still hold up over time?
> Will the finished bowl still wick up liquids and constantly expand and contract?
> What is the best way to get that shiny, almost wet look on finished pieces?
> I guess the simple way will be to just say I need all the finishing advice I can get. I know I need more sandpaper. I have no where near the grit selection I know I'm going to need if I want the best results. As soon as I'm able to afford it, I will get some sand paper. In the mean time, I want to start learning all I can about finishes. I hope to soon make some pieces that can be in a finished state and be used in my own kitchen, and I have a few friends I wish to make finished bowls for.


Oh, one more word on finishes. I asked about the "wet" look because that seems like what everybody seems to be into these days. I personally like a finish that protects wood but leaves it looking natural as possible. I think most woods are beautiful in their natural glory.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*The Trouble With Turning*

Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.

I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.

The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.








This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.

So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens. 
I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.








It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future. 
So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.

.

Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one. 
You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.








I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen. 
As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning. 








The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.








Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.








These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried. 
I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.

So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting. 
Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


----------



## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


Nice pens. And nice penmanship if that's yours on the jig.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


That is my penmanship. 
I forgot I'd written that on there to make sure it was oriented while assembling it though, until you pointed it out.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


Very clever for sure…..and some really cool designs…....somebody STOP HIM!


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


As much as I enjoy turning, I just don't get the whole pen thing. You're really very limited in what you can do, unless you want to make something purely decorative that can't really be used. That said, I do like the pens that are made from mixed acrylics, deer antler, that kind of thing, exotic materials. I even saw one that was made from shredded up dollar bills. LOL


----------



## ShaneA

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


When you do buy the pen kits, you better get extra…cause it looks like you will be cranking them out. I just got a lathe a couple of months ago, so I understand the addiction. I figure once I get to turning pens, it will be a full on crack like addiction. It already is with tool handles, which is really all I have done.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


Thanks guys.
Rich, I said the exact same thing this morning when I started. I was kind of dreading doing this task. I thought, being a pen, this was going to be the most boring thing I've ever done. Then when I got started it was like I just couldn't stop.
Shane, I seen some real nice stuff in the catalogue, but there is just so much more I want to buy with my money right now. I'll have to stick with this cheap method for now. When I do get the chance though, I want to do some of the exotic stuff like Rich was talking about, deer antlers, buffalo horn, and so much more.
Also, Shane, don't mention tool handles. That's something else I want to start on soon as well. I imagine I'll get just as addicted to those.
Jeff, I can't be stopped. It's too late.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


well alright, ill stand up next, ok, my name is grizzman and im a wood addict…any kind of wood im not prejudiced, and im also well , i didn't even use my real name, so its still safe to be a wood addict…, well that wasn't so bad…now i gotta find this guy william, he have some wood i can , well barrow…lol…sorta…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


There are tests involved Grizz.
If you've ever caressed a piece of wood as long as lovingly as you carress your wife, you might be a wood addict.
If you've ever kept a piece of wood longer than a week because it was too pretty to cut, you might be a wood addict.
If you've got pieces of wood saved that some people think is saw dust, you might be a wood addict.
If…........
Well, you get the picture.


----------



## ShaneA

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


Yeah, I have been checking out the kits too. Looks like the first pen is going to cost more than $100 lol. I am just not sure what all contraptions one really "needs". I have seen guys use clamps as the press, and similar drilling guides to what you conjured up. But, I usually fall for all the gimmicky stuff. I just have figure out what it all does. Never tried the CA finishes, or to turn acrylic. I used to have little to no interest in turning, especially pens, but they do intrigue me know. Turning is fun, a sort of single sitting, more instant gratification form of WW. Figure pens will make good little gifts, and I always need gift ideas.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


ok…so i get this response from william and he tells me these different tests…my problem with that part of it is i was guilty of them all…i just made a tv tray made out of all different woods, the center one is a piece of highly figured walnut,,,i look it it more then i look at the show im suppose to be watching…i look past my plate of food just so i can look at the walnut….......i have plastic bins in the shop , full of small cuts of different woods…if you were to come here and see where and how much wood i have…i think im going to wood prison….one question, do they have a shop class in wood prison…am i in trouble…or am i normal…hehe


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


You could try the pens like I done here Shane to see if you like them. 
I just used the inserts from those Bic pens, the white ones. I used the soft jaws of a sping clamp to pull them out of the store bought pens. I drilled holes in scrap wood to find the exact drill bit for a good press fit, drilled the hole in using my shop built jig. Then I turned the pens. After turning, because all I had was a regular length bit, I had to trim the ink tube with wire cutters, and then press the inserts in. It's simple.
If course, they may not look quite as fancy as those pen kits, but as you noted, it's a lot less expensive.

Next, I want to try and figure out ways to retrofit other type of pen, mechanical pens, and such to turn those as well. 
Also, I have an idea to go to the Dollar Tree, one of those everything is a dollar stores, and pick up other item I can turn handles for, like ice cream scoops, kitchen utensils, and so forth.
Also, I seen a kit in a catalogue for $79.99 for making your own rod and reel. All you turn is a handle. The rest is rod assembly, which of course you have to buy jigs and tools for. I can go pick up a $10 rod and reel at Wal-Mart, remove the plastic handle, and turn a handle for it.

These are just some of my random ideas.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


Grizz, that's the reason I did not go further with the test questions. I already know that you are as guilty as I am of every single one of them. If I list too many of them you may look too deeply into yourself, realize just how addicted you are, feel bad about it, and wind up sitting in the corner of your wood shop looking like an upset baby, using a piece of walnut as a pacifier.
Let's just admit our weakness, accept it, move on, but never go to the meetings, because we don't wish to be cured.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


welll ive got my legs wrapped around some walnut and some mahogany….and i made a wooden pacifier after i hit the send button…the lights are turned down low, im getting walnut saliva all over my face…and im going to count how many board feet are in yhis area./..and im going to load it on my trailer, and take it and run…...........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................see ya cant catch me…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


That's funny.
When you run, come west.
Stop in Vicksburg,
I'll take that wood off your hands, and send you back towards home with some different species of wood if I have something you don't. 
I have plenty of sapelle, cotton wood, oak, and pecan.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


William,
I have a "drill press vise" similar to yours. Just the other day I was conjuring up a plan, much like yours, to make it as adjustable as you have. So, either we are great tinkerers, or we are both crazy… Then again we could possibly be both great & crazy!!!

Oh yeah….
THANKS! :^(
Now I've got another reason to assemble my lathe ASAP!!!

BTW: nice job on them there writing implements!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


It's nothing to it Randy.
Make and mount the wooden blocks in place of the removeable metal ones. Make sure, even if you have to trim one, that one side is exactly flush with each other. Then, using that flush side, use a sled or miter gauge and stop block to cut them both to the exact same length. Then tilt your blade forty five degrees and, with the pieces positioned in opposite directions, so the V gets put in the exact same place on each piece when mounted, cut a forty five degree cut from equal distances on each end at a blade hieght that'll leave you with a full V. Then moutn them back in the vice.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


Good creative thinking and very nice pens William. It's amazing how many good ideas come from a lack of money. I think ideas like this can often give a lot more satisfaction than buying the proprietary stuff. You may not think so now, but there will come a time when you will tire of turning and go back to other skills, but it is nice to have a lot of strings to play on.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


Thanks for the compliment Stefang.
I know I'll eventually want to do other things. Actually, that was the whole point of all this to begin with. I needed a break from scrolling. As much as I love to scroll, it had started getting too easy and somewhat mundane to me. I needed a diversion. When I learned I could turn without hurting my back too much, just like scrolling, I immediately fell in love with it.
I can see the lathe as being my secondary passion though. Scrolling will always, in my opinion, be my favorite and what I'm best at. During those times that scrolling becomes too easy, turning sure is fun.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


You're turnin into a turnin machine


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


It is turning out to seem that way, isn't Roger?


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


That vise modification is "pure William" ingenuity. Love the sycamore pens. What did you put on them for finish?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


Andy, it's just Johnson's Paste Wax. I turn the lathe up about halfway (around 1200 RPMs I think), use a rag to apply wax while it turns. I let it keep turning about a minute untouched, then use a clean rag to wipe off the excess. It's a simple finish, not extremely shiny, but I think it looks good.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


Thanks William. I'll bet it has a good feel as well.


----------



## Danpaddles

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


Nice shapes, good thinking on the vice. I started similarly, wife did buy me a mandrel and some kits, but at 3-6-9 a kit- there had to be a cheaper way. Thanks to Cap'n Eddie Caselin, I tried Bic pens too.

So that you can drill deeper- you can buy long bits, I found one at my local hardware. WW Grainger has them too, as does Irwin. I still have trouble with the hole going off center, after I drill it, I let the bit in the lathe, and I let it tell me where the bit is. Watch Cap'n Eddie, he explains it well.

If you want a similar project, get the cheap 4 way screw drivers at harbor freight. cut or melt away the plastic handle, keep the ferrule. Again, Capn 'Eddie can help you, or just buy one of the expensive ones at Rockler to learn from. They make a very nice screw driver!

I too can become obsessed with the lathe, but it usually runs its course in 2-3 weeks, then I am back to the table saw and more interesting projects.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


Thanks Dan.
I have, since this post, moved on to kits from Penn State. They cost more, but I've been able to sell more, so they pay for themselves.
I have also made a screwdriver.

For anyone else reading this, Capn Eddie is a great place to start if you're just learning to turn. He has some great videos.


----------



## Danpaddles

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


Arizona Silhouette has a good deal on a slim line package, 5 for 9 bucks. http://www.arizonasilhouette.com/product/BHW003.html Watch out though, the top and bottom are different lengths, not like the slimlines I had from Rockler.

The parts seemed to be of a good quality, I boogered up one of the twist mechanisms, mostly because I was too busy to come inside and look at the instruction sheet on the computer. No fault of theirs.

Still doing some Bic pens, I found two 1/8 inch x 12" bits at the woodworking show in Indy. Still having a hell of a time getting the hole to go straight into the blank. As if I wasn't having enough trouble with that, for some unknown reason I thought it might be fun to turn one with the grain going diagonal to the barrel. Well, I will not know that soon. That way, the drill bit REALLY walks over.
~~~~~
Makes a nice screwdriver, for 2 bucks, don't it!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Trouble With Turning*
> 
> Alright, this is getting downright ridiculous. I'm addicted to bowl turning. I'm already in a twelve step program for scrollers, and now I've turned a pen, and found it to be just as addicting. I think I'm in trouble.
> 
> I made a mistake about a week ago. I let my wife look at the Penn State Indutries catalog. She seen pens and started asking when she was getting one. This made it apparant that I'd be making a pen sooner or later. At the moment though, I do not have the money to get proper pen kits. So I figured I'd wait a while on that idea. I was a tad mistaken I guess, especially if you talked to my wife.
> So, I couldn't afford pen kits. Instead, I had the idea of going to the store and getting Bic pens, removeing the inserts, and turning her some simple pens.
> 
> The first problem I had was I did not have a good way to accurately drill the hole through long pieces of wood for the inserts to go in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows what happens when the holes are not drilled one hundred percent perfectly straight.
> 
> So I looked in the Penn State catalogue and seen a real nifty drill press jig for making the holes for pens.
> I couldn't afford it though, just like I couldn't afford pen kits right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was simple enough though to make my own and it works perfectly. I took a drill press vice and removed the metal jaws. I replaced them with wooden jaws that I carefully measured, marked, and cut V-notches in to center the blanks straight up and down. I mounted this on a board such that you can loosen the star knobs and move it forward and back, or loosen the round knobs and move it side to side. This allows infinite adjustment for anything I need to use it to drill in the future.
> So it was on to turning a pen for my wife.
> 
> .
> 
> Did any of you catch that? I said *A* pen. That is as in one pen, singular, only one.
> You seasoned turners already know where this is headed I'll bet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I think five is more than one pen. After doing one, I couldn't seem to stop. These are so much fun I think because you can do them so quickly and move on to the next idea for the next pen. Yes, a pen is simple, but there is so many different ways to do a simple pen.
> As soon as the first was done, I thought of another design change. Then I thought of using a different wood. Then I wanted to use a different wood again. Next thing I knew, the day was about gone and this single pen had taken on a while other adventure in wood turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first two were made of sapelle. I use sapelle a lot because I have a lot of it. These looked nice enough, but both of them developed a tiny crack close to the point when I pressed the inserts in. I think the straight grain causes it to split too easy in this thin area. I used super glue to fix them, but I decided then to try a different wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I decided to try a small piece of sycomore I had lying near the bench. I had decided sycamore was not a good choice for the face plate turning I done with it yesterday. It turned out quite nice for a spindle turning though. I wish the photo showed it better. The grain on this pen is very pretty and I think I'll be making more of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two are from two different pieces of pecan to try different colors. I found out from these that I like using hard wood better. I was able to use one size smaller drill bit for a very tight press fit of the inserts because the hard wood does not crack as easily as the other woods I tried.
> I made the longer one large in diameter because I planned on keeping it for myself and I have large hands. However, when my wife came to choose the one she wanted, she took them all, including this one. Oh well, that just means I have to turn some more.
> 
> So the problem with turning is it is too darn addicting.
> Hi! My name is William. I am an addict. I love wood, and I'm leaving the meeting. I've decided to give in and just be a life long addict.


Slimlines and PSI's funline is almost identical.
5 for 9 comes out to about $1.80 a piece. If you can afford it, the funline package of thirty pens comes out to about $1.48 a piece at $44.50.

I haven't done any BIC type pens for a long time. I may do some more one day just for the practice.
Thanks for your comment.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*The Disappearing Pen Mystery*









Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into. 
I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.








I made five out of pecan.








Three out of oak.








I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.

So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


----------



## DamnYankee

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Disappearing Pen Mystery*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into.
> I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made five out of pecan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three out of oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.
> 
> So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
> I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


Nice work William


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Disappearing Pen Mystery*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into.
> I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made five out of pecan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three out of oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.
> 
> So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
> I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


That's what happens sometimes! Take it as a sign that you're doing good work!


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Disappearing Pen Mystery*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into.
> I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made five out of pecan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three out of oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.
> 
> So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
> I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


Sounds like you need to go into business!!!

Having them disappear so quickly is a great compliment!!!


----------



## sras

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Disappearing Pen Mystery*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into.
> I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made five out of pecan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three out of oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.
> 
> So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
> I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


Great story! Sounds like you have a problem


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Disappearing Pen Mystery*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into.
> I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made five out of pecan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three out of oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.
> 
> So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
> I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


Thanks guys for the compliments.
I'll make some more.
I enjoy them, so unless I get bored with them first, I guess I'll keep making them until I can get some to stick around for longer than a day.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Disappearing Pen Mystery*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into.
> I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made five out of pecan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three out of oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.
> 
> So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
> I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


Those are very cool (man pens). The sycamore is my favorite. If you hide em, you won't remember where if yer like me!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Disappearing Pen Mystery*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into.
> I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made five out of pecan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three out of oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.
> 
> So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
> I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


My favorite is the sycamore as well. The sycamore, in my opinion, just has a more interesting grain pattern than all the others. 
You're right Andy, I have probably at least a hundred different things lost in my shop at this very moment that I put away, "where I would know where it was".


----------



## devann

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Disappearing Pen Mystery*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into.
> I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made five out of pecan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three out of oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.
> 
> So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
> I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


Those look good, comfortable. I like a fat handle in my hammer William.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Disappearing Pen Mystery*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into.
> I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made five out of pecan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three out of oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.
> 
> So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
> I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


They are all quite comfortable to use in my opinion Devann.
Some of these look kind of funny, but I used some of my wife's favorite pens as styling cues. Then, some of them, I used the style, but made them a larger diameter, because I know some people have big hands and fat fingers like me.


----------



## Ken90712

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Disappearing Pen Mystery*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into.
> I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made five out of pecan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three out of oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.
> 
> So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
> I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


Great job, looks great.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Disappearing Pen Mystery*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into.
> I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made five out of pecan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three out of oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.
> 
> So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
> I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


That's a good problem you have there William. I can see why they like them. They look like they would be comfortable to hold and of course being wood, they are also very special.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Disappearing Pen Mystery*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into.
> I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made five out of pecan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three out of oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.
> 
> So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
> I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


Thanks all.

Stefang, they are comfortable. I asked my wife about her favorite pens for a reason. I've found that often, the most comfortable pens are not just straight shafts.
Everyone around here, even my little ones in school, use mechanical pencils. I think I'm going to disassemble one of those soon and see if I can figure out how to make them of wood.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Disappearing Pen Mystery*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into.
> I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made five out of pecan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three out of oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.
> 
> So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
> I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


You well on your way William.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Disappearing Pen Mystery*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into.
> I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made five out of pecan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three out of oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.
> 
> So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
> I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


When you going to build the pencils?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Disappearing Pen Mystery*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the five pens I turned yesterday were quickly confiscated by my wife, I decided to turn some more today. My idea is to have some in a cup next to my lathe. That way, when certain family members and such come over and hint that they want something I've made, I can give them a pen instead of something I've got countless hours into.
> I realized today that, now that I'm used to turning them, I can turn them out pretty quickly. I turned eleven today. One of them left with my son when he came by before I could even get it in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made five out of pecan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three out of oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three out of sycomore, but like I said, one of my older sons took one of those before I even got photos.
> 
> So, as I finished these, I put them in a cup on the bench beside my lathe. I started getting tired this evening and started cleaning up. I then went to get the cup and put them up. Between my two grown sons, my grown daughter, my wife, and a friend, the cup is already empty.
> I'm going to have to hide these things. I can't just keep making these until they get tired of taking them.


As soon as I get the kits Jeff.
Through the kindness of a fellow Lumberjock, I am ordering some kits from PennState Industries tonight. I'm looking at some that having matching pen and pencil sets.

Thanks Dave. I am well on my way somewhere, that's correct. I just wonder where sometimes.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Move Along, Nothing To See Here*

I have to apologize. I have no new project or techinques or newly learned advice to share today. I just felt a need to post today about yesterday's non-progress.

First of all, I did not make much yesterday. I did make my kids some sort of spinning top things. I call them "some sort of" because they weren't great. They were just ideas I was working on as I went along. The kids liked them though. Before I could even think of whether I wished to snap a photo or not, they had broken one and spun the other one under a low lying heavy table where it may stay awhile before being retrieved. I may go back to this idea at a later day. I seen in the Penn State Catalogue where I can get ball bearing inserts for these and yo-yos. I think my kids would absolutely love those when I get to a point where I can afford to add that to an existing order. 
On that note, the tops. While I seen them as an idea that I was kicking around, my kids seen them as fascinating new toys. The reason I bring this up is my evergrowing concerns about today's youth. My kids are different than most these days. Yes they have video games, but I push them to work more than just their fingers on a game controller. They like simple toys, like jacks, marble, cards, and such. Watching them play with the spinning tops yesterday though reminded me that today's kids aren't much different than we were. Some of them just need to be introduced to simpler things earlier in life, while they are still young enough to enjoy them.
What I did do yesterday was mostly search and play. First, the search. I knew I had it, I just had to find it. I've been doing mostly flat work for so long that the highest grit sandpaper I had on hand was 400 grit, and seldom went that high. Now that I've started turning though, I'm finding myself more and more needed finer paper. I had stashed some away a long time ago. As usual though, when I put something where I'll know where it's at, I have troubles finding it when I need to know where it's at. I found it, it is a box I had with a hoard of sandpaper I had bought a long time ago at a good deal. This is various grits all the way up to 2000 grit. 
So I played around for a long time yesterday with sanding up higher on the lathe than what I've been doing. Boy does it make a difference. If you carefully sand up through the grits, and it doesn't take long on a spinning lathe, you can get a sanded finish that looks almost like glass, and this is before you apply any type of finish. So now I can sand my turned projects to look better.

Some of you may remember my less than great opinion of the router bit tool I was recently given when I tried it on bowls. I told then that I would one day give it another go on spindle. Well, since I had messed up on one of the spinning top ideas yesterday, I took it as an opportunity to give that tool another try. 
First all, you can see or order the tool here if you'd like. I did not put that in the original review of this item because, as it was a gift to me, I did not know exactly where to get one. It turns out it came from my favorite turning supplier, Penn State.
On spindles is where this tool shines. While I couldn't do anything with it on bowls, it felt like there was little that I could NOT do with it on spindle stock. It cuts easier, with no sharpening so far, and leaves a finish that is ready for only the finer grits of sandpaper. The only drawback, and an expected one, was with the router bit that came in the tool. It seems to be kind of dull from the factory. Once I decided to try a better quality bit in it, it cut like hot butter.
My only gripe with this tool would be my percieved overall cost savings, which would be little to none. I learned the hard way long time ago not to mess with cheap router bits. The Freud bits that I buy locally run about thirty bucks a piece, so I only buy the ones I need. That being said, if I were to use one of these bits extensively in this lathe tool, I would worry about dulling one side more than the other, or messing with the balance of it. Therefore, if I was to use this tool much, I would lean towards buying bits just to be used in the lathe tool. At thirty bucks a piece, I can't see the cost savings over prices I've seen for dedicated lathe tools. 
So as usual, in my opinion, any tool that does many things, while it may do some well, usually does so with compromises. Even I sometimes decide to make those compromises if the cost savings are great enough to make it worth doing so. I still just don't see that here. On the other hand, if you have many extra router bits that are not being used, such as when buying whole sets, then this tool may be just the perfect tool for you to finally put those extra bits to use.

.

The next thing I want to talk about is kindness. A fellow Lumberjock has given me an emial gift certificate. I am not at liberty at the moment to tell who or how much. I will say though that it was generous, and an unexpected act of kindness that left me speechless. 
This person, although I'd seen and talked to (I think) a couple of times here on Lumberjocks, I really do not know on a personal level like I do some other jocks here. So to me, this person was pretty much a stranger. I've had friends do things for me before, and even those occassions kind of put me off guard. I'm just not the sort of man who's used to people doing things for me. I do for myself with whatever I may or may not have left over after providing for my family. That's just the way it's always been. So, when someone I hardly know does something like this person has it just floors me.
Enough of that. I was speechless yesterday. Today I can go on and on about it. I just wish to say to this person, thank you from the bottom of my heart. It was extremely kind of you. I will be sending something your way as soon as I can as a token of my gratitude. Still though, it doesn't repay the help you've provided to get me started with some proper pen making supplies. I pray that your kindness is returned upon you. If I lived closer to you I would come take care of your yard, do your dishes, or something. 
Ok, I said enough of that didn't I?
So, I had to figure out what to order with the gift certificate. Sounds simple enough doesn't it? It is amazing though how many options there are in pen turning on the Penn State website.
I wound up ordering a mandrel, which I will have to have in order to make these proper pens. I ordered extra bushings because everywhere I read for advice says you need to have extras on hand. They are cheap too, so that wasn't bad. Then, with bundle kits, I got a total of thirty eight pen kits. There isn't a huge variety in what I ordered. The idea though, in my opinion, is to get started. These will give me the practice and then I can move up from there on trying different styles to see what I like best.
Again, thank you so much. I wish I could, but I can't think of anything else to say on that matter that I haven't already said. So on that note, I will end my rambling now for this entry.

Happy turnings everybody!


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Move Along, Nothing To See Here*
> 
> I have to apologize. I have no new project or techinques or newly learned advice to share today. I just felt a need to post today about yesterday's non-progress.
> 
> First of all, I did not make much yesterday. I did make my kids some sort of spinning top things. I call them "some sort of" because they weren't great. They were just ideas I was working on as I went along. The kids liked them though. Before I could even think of whether I wished to snap a photo or not, they had broken one and spun the other one under a low lying heavy table where it may stay awhile before being retrieved. I may go back to this idea at a later day. I seen in the Penn State Catalogue where I can get ball bearing inserts for these and yo-yos. I think my kids would absolutely love those when I get to a point where I can afford to add that to an existing order.
> On that note, the tops. While I seen them as an idea that I was kicking around, my kids seen them as fascinating new toys. The reason I bring this up is my evergrowing concerns about today's youth. My kids are different than most these days. Yes they have video games, but I push them to work more than just their fingers on a game controller. They like simple toys, like jacks, marble, cards, and such. Watching them play with the spinning tops yesterday though reminded me that today's kids aren't much different than we were. Some of them just need to be introduced to simpler things earlier in life, while they are still young enough to enjoy them.
> What I did do yesterday was mostly search and play. First, the search. I knew I had it, I just had to find it. I've been doing mostly flat work for so long that the highest grit sandpaper I had on hand was 400 grit, and seldom went that high. Now that I've started turning though, I'm finding myself more and more needed finer paper. I had stashed some away a long time ago. As usual though, when I put something where I'll know where it's at, I have troubles finding it when I need to know where it's at. I found it, it is a box I had with a hoard of sandpaper I had bought a long time ago at a good deal. This is various grits all the way up to 2000 grit.
> So I played around for a long time yesterday with sanding up higher on the lathe than what I've been doing. Boy does it make a difference. If you carefully sand up through the grits, and it doesn't take long on a spinning lathe, you can get a sanded finish that looks almost like glass, and this is before you apply any type of finish. So now I can sand my turned projects to look better.
> 
> Some of you may remember my less than great opinion of the router bit tool I was recently given when I tried it on bowls. I told then that I would one day give it another go on spindle. Well, since I had messed up on one of the spinning top ideas yesterday, I took it as an opportunity to give that tool another try.
> First all, you can see or order the tool here if you'd like. I did not put that in the original review of this item because, as it was a gift to me, I did not know exactly where to get one. It turns out it came from my favorite turning supplier, Penn State.
> On spindles is where this tool shines. While I couldn't do anything with it on bowls, it felt like there was little that I could NOT do with it on spindle stock. It cuts easier, with no sharpening so far, and leaves a finish that is ready for only the finer grits of sandpaper. The only drawback, and an expected one, was with the router bit that came in the tool. It seems to be kind of dull from the factory. Once I decided to try a better quality bit in it, it cut like hot butter.
> My only gripe with this tool would be my percieved overall cost savings, which would be little to none. I learned the hard way long time ago not to mess with cheap router bits. The Freud bits that I buy locally run about thirty bucks a piece, so I only buy the ones I need. That being said, if I were to use one of these bits extensively in this lathe tool, I would worry about dulling one side more than the other, or messing with the balance of it. Therefore, if I was to use this tool much, I would lean towards buying bits just to be used in the lathe tool. At thirty bucks a piece, I can't see the cost savings over prices I've seen for dedicated lathe tools.
> So as usual, in my opinion, any tool that does many things, while it may do some well, usually does so with compromises. Even I sometimes decide to make those compromises if the cost savings are great enough to make it worth doing so. I still just don't see that here. On the other hand, if you have many extra router bits that are not being used, such as when buying whole sets, then this tool may be just the perfect tool for you to finally put those extra bits to use.
> 
> .
> 
> The next thing I want to talk about is kindness. A fellow Lumberjock has given me an emial gift certificate. I am not at liberty at the moment to tell who or how much. I will say though that it was generous, and an unexpected act of kindness that left me speechless.
> This person, although I'd seen and talked to (I think) a couple of times here on Lumberjocks, I really do not know on a personal level like I do some other jocks here. So to me, this person was pretty much a stranger. I've had friends do things for me before, and even those occassions kind of put me off guard. I'm just not the sort of man who's used to people doing things for me. I do for myself with whatever I may or may not have left over after providing for my family. That's just the way it's always been. So, when someone I hardly know does something like this person has it just floors me.
> Enough of that. I was speechless yesterday. Today I can go on and on about it. I just wish to say to this person, thank you from the bottom of my heart. It was extremely kind of you. I will be sending something your way as soon as I can as a token of my gratitude. Still though, it doesn't repay the help you've provided to get me started with some proper pen making supplies. I pray that your kindness is returned upon you. If I lived closer to you I would come take care of your yard, do your dishes, or something.
> Ok, I said enough of that didn't I?
> So, I had to figure out what to order with the gift certificate. Sounds simple enough doesn't it? It is amazing though how many options there are in pen turning on the Penn State website.
> I wound up ordering a mandrel, which I will have to have in order to make these proper pens. I ordered extra bushings because everywhere I read for advice says you need to have extras on hand. They are cheap too, so that wasn't bad. Then, with bundle kits, I got a total of thirty eight pen kits. There isn't a huge variety in what I ordered. The idea though, in my opinion, is to get started. These will give me the practice and then I can move up from there on trying different styles to see what I like best.
> Again, thank you so much. I wish I could, but I can't think of anything else to say on that matter that I haven't already said. So on that note, I will end my rambling now for this entry.
> 
> Happy turnings everybody!


Hi william. It sounds like you are really enjoying your lathe and experimenting a lot. I got a little Swedish book with some traditional turnings, among them some old time tops. The design of one called for drilling a hole in the pointed end and gluing in a small brass round top nail. I turned some of these and the brass provided a great bearing for long lasting spins. Glad to hear that you are getting into pen turning. I've never turned one, but those who do seem to enjoy it a lot. The spontaneous gift you received says a lot about the guy who sent it. It's good to know that such people are still around.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Move Along, Nothing To See Here*
> 
> I have to apologize. I have no new project or techinques or newly learned advice to share today. I just felt a need to post today about yesterday's non-progress.
> 
> First of all, I did not make much yesterday. I did make my kids some sort of spinning top things. I call them "some sort of" because they weren't great. They were just ideas I was working on as I went along. The kids liked them though. Before I could even think of whether I wished to snap a photo or not, they had broken one and spun the other one under a low lying heavy table where it may stay awhile before being retrieved. I may go back to this idea at a later day. I seen in the Penn State Catalogue where I can get ball bearing inserts for these and yo-yos. I think my kids would absolutely love those when I get to a point where I can afford to add that to an existing order.
> On that note, the tops. While I seen them as an idea that I was kicking around, my kids seen them as fascinating new toys. The reason I bring this up is my evergrowing concerns about today's youth. My kids are different than most these days. Yes they have video games, but I push them to work more than just their fingers on a game controller. They like simple toys, like jacks, marble, cards, and such. Watching them play with the spinning tops yesterday though reminded me that today's kids aren't much different than we were. Some of them just need to be introduced to simpler things earlier in life, while they are still young enough to enjoy them.
> What I did do yesterday was mostly search and play. First, the search. I knew I had it, I just had to find it. I've been doing mostly flat work for so long that the highest grit sandpaper I had on hand was 400 grit, and seldom went that high. Now that I've started turning though, I'm finding myself more and more needed finer paper. I had stashed some away a long time ago. As usual though, when I put something where I'll know where it's at, I have troubles finding it when I need to know where it's at. I found it, it is a box I had with a hoard of sandpaper I had bought a long time ago at a good deal. This is various grits all the way up to 2000 grit.
> So I played around for a long time yesterday with sanding up higher on the lathe than what I've been doing. Boy does it make a difference. If you carefully sand up through the grits, and it doesn't take long on a spinning lathe, you can get a sanded finish that looks almost like glass, and this is before you apply any type of finish. So now I can sand my turned projects to look better.
> 
> Some of you may remember my less than great opinion of the router bit tool I was recently given when I tried it on bowls. I told then that I would one day give it another go on spindle. Well, since I had messed up on one of the spinning top ideas yesterday, I took it as an opportunity to give that tool another try.
> First all, you can see or order the tool here if you'd like. I did not put that in the original review of this item because, as it was a gift to me, I did not know exactly where to get one. It turns out it came from my favorite turning supplier, Penn State.
> On spindles is where this tool shines. While I couldn't do anything with it on bowls, it felt like there was little that I could NOT do with it on spindle stock. It cuts easier, with no sharpening so far, and leaves a finish that is ready for only the finer grits of sandpaper. The only drawback, and an expected one, was with the router bit that came in the tool. It seems to be kind of dull from the factory. Once I decided to try a better quality bit in it, it cut like hot butter.
> My only gripe with this tool would be my percieved overall cost savings, which would be little to none. I learned the hard way long time ago not to mess with cheap router bits. The Freud bits that I buy locally run about thirty bucks a piece, so I only buy the ones I need. That being said, if I were to use one of these bits extensively in this lathe tool, I would worry about dulling one side more than the other, or messing with the balance of it. Therefore, if I was to use this tool much, I would lean towards buying bits just to be used in the lathe tool. At thirty bucks a piece, I can't see the cost savings over prices I've seen for dedicated lathe tools.
> So as usual, in my opinion, any tool that does many things, while it may do some well, usually does so with compromises. Even I sometimes decide to make those compromises if the cost savings are great enough to make it worth doing so. I still just don't see that here. On the other hand, if you have many extra router bits that are not being used, such as when buying whole sets, then this tool may be just the perfect tool for you to finally put those extra bits to use.
> 
> .
> 
> The next thing I want to talk about is kindness. A fellow Lumberjock has given me an emial gift certificate. I am not at liberty at the moment to tell who or how much. I will say though that it was generous, and an unexpected act of kindness that left me speechless.
> This person, although I'd seen and talked to (I think) a couple of times here on Lumberjocks, I really do not know on a personal level like I do some other jocks here. So to me, this person was pretty much a stranger. I've had friends do things for me before, and even those occassions kind of put me off guard. I'm just not the sort of man who's used to people doing things for me. I do for myself with whatever I may or may not have left over after providing for my family. That's just the way it's always been. So, when someone I hardly know does something like this person has it just floors me.
> Enough of that. I was speechless yesterday. Today I can go on and on about it. I just wish to say to this person, thank you from the bottom of my heart. It was extremely kind of you. I will be sending something your way as soon as I can as a token of my gratitude. Still though, it doesn't repay the help you've provided to get me started with some proper pen making supplies. I pray that your kindness is returned upon you. If I lived closer to you I would come take care of your yard, do your dishes, or something.
> Ok, I said enough of that didn't I?
> So, I had to figure out what to order with the gift certificate. Sounds simple enough doesn't it? It is amazing though how many options there are in pen turning on the Penn State website.
> I wound up ordering a mandrel, which I will have to have in order to make these proper pens. I ordered extra bushings because everywhere I read for advice says you need to have extras on hand. They are cheap too, so that wasn't bad. Then, with bundle kits, I got a total of thirty eight pen kits. There isn't a huge variety in what I ordered. The idea though, in my opinion, is to get started. These will give me the practice and then I can move up from there on trying different styles to see what I like best.
> Again, thank you so much. I wish I could, but I can't think of anything else to say on that matter that I haven't already said. So on that note, I will end my rambling now for this entry.
> 
> Happy turnings everybody!


William,
You provided a GREAT lesson today! That being, there are good people in this world, who would go out of their way, making a difference without regard or wanting any recognition!!!

Since I know you hate waiting….
Do you have a "tracker alert" set up for the delivery???

Have fun with your new pen turning adventure!!!


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Move Along, Nothing To See Here*
> 
> I have to apologize. I have no new project or techinques or newly learned advice to share today. I just felt a need to post today about yesterday's non-progress.
> 
> First of all, I did not make much yesterday. I did make my kids some sort of spinning top things. I call them "some sort of" because they weren't great. They were just ideas I was working on as I went along. The kids liked them though. Before I could even think of whether I wished to snap a photo or not, they had broken one and spun the other one under a low lying heavy table where it may stay awhile before being retrieved. I may go back to this idea at a later day. I seen in the Penn State Catalogue where I can get ball bearing inserts for these and yo-yos. I think my kids would absolutely love those when I get to a point where I can afford to add that to an existing order.
> On that note, the tops. While I seen them as an idea that I was kicking around, my kids seen them as fascinating new toys. The reason I bring this up is my evergrowing concerns about today's youth. My kids are different than most these days. Yes they have video games, but I push them to work more than just their fingers on a game controller. They like simple toys, like jacks, marble, cards, and such. Watching them play with the spinning tops yesterday though reminded me that today's kids aren't much different than we were. Some of them just need to be introduced to simpler things earlier in life, while they are still young enough to enjoy them.
> What I did do yesterday was mostly search and play. First, the search. I knew I had it, I just had to find it. I've been doing mostly flat work for so long that the highest grit sandpaper I had on hand was 400 grit, and seldom went that high. Now that I've started turning though, I'm finding myself more and more needed finer paper. I had stashed some away a long time ago. As usual though, when I put something where I'll know where it's at, I have troubles finding it when I need to know where it's at. I found it, it is a box I had with a hoard of sandpaper I had bought a long time ago at a good deal. This is various grits all the way up to 2000 grit.
> So I played around for a long time yesterday with sanding up higher on the lathe than what I've been doing. Boy does it make a difference. If you carefully sand up through the grits, and it doesn't take long on a spinning lathe, you can get a sanded finish that looks almost like glass, and this is before you apply any type of finish. So now I can sand my turned projects to look better.
> 
> Some of you may remember my less than great opinion of the router bit tool I was recently given when I tried it on bowls. I told then that I would one day give it another go on spindle. Well, since I had messed up on one of the spinning top ideas yesterday, I took it as an opportunity to give that tool another try.
> First all, you can see or order the tool here if you'd like. I did not put that in the original review of this item because, as it was a gift to me, I did not know exactly where to get one. It turns out it came from my favorite turning supplier, Penn State.
> On spindles is where this tool shines. While I couldn't do anything with it on bowls, it felt like there was little that I could NOT do with it on spindle stock. It cuts easier, with no sharpening so far, and leaves a finish that is ready for only the finer grits of sandpaper. The only drawback, and an expected one, was with the router bit that came in the tool. It seems to be kind of dull from the factory. Once I decided to try a better quality bit in it, it cut like hot butter.
> My only gripe with this tool would be my percieved overall cost savings, which would be little to none. I learned the hard way long time ago not to mess with cheap router bits. The Freud bits that I buy locally run about thirty bucks a piece, so I only buy the ones I need. That being said, if I were to use one of these bits extensively in this lathe tool, I would worry about dulling one side more than the other, or messing with the balance of it. Therefore, if I was to use this tool much, I would lean towards buying bits just to be used in the lathe tool. At thirty bucks a piece, I can't see the cost savings over prices I've seen for dedicated lathe tools.
> So as usual, in my opinion, any tool that does many things, while it may do some well, usually does so with compromises. Even I sometimes decide to make those compromises if the cost savings are great enough to make it worth doing so. I still just don't see that here. On the other hand, if you have many extra router bits that are not being used, such as when buying whole sets, then this tool may be just the perfect tool for you to finally put those extra bits to use.
> 
> .
> 
> The next thing I want to talk about is kindness. A fellow Lumberjock has given me an emial gift certificate. I am not at liberty at the moment to tell who or how much. I will say though that it was generous, and an unexpected act of kindness that left me speechless.
> This person, although I'd seen and talked to (I think) a couple of times here on Lumberjocks, I really do not know on a personal level like I do some other jocks here. So to me, this person was pretty much a stranger. I've had friends do things for me before, and even those occassions kind of put me off guard. I'm just not the sort of man who's used to people doing things for me. I do for myself with whatever I may or may not have left over after providing for my family. That's just the way it's always been. So, when someone I hardly know does something like this person has it just floors me.
> Enough of that. I was speechless yesterday. Today I can go on and on about it. I just wish to say to this person, thank you from the bottom of my heart. It was extremely kind of you. I will be sending something your way as soon as I can as a token of my gratitude. Still though, it doesn't repay the help you've provided to get me started with some proper pen making supplies. I pray that your kindness is returned upon you. If I lived closer to you I would come take care of your yard, do your dishes, or something.
> Ok, I said enough of that didn't I?
> So, I had to figure out what to order with the gift certificate. Sounds simple enough doesn't it? It is amazing though how many options there are in pen turning on the Penn State website.
> I wound up ordering a mandrel, which I will have to have in order to make these proper pens. I ordered extra bushings because everywhere I read for advice says you need to have extras on hand. They are cheap too, so that wasn't bad. Then, with bundle kits, I got a total of thirty eight pen kits. There isn't a huge variety in what I ordered. The idea though, in my opinion, is to get started. These will give me the practice and then I can move up from there on trying different styles to see what I like best.
> Again, thank you so much. I wish I could, but I can't think of anything else to say on that matter that I haven't already said. So on that note, I will end my rambling now for this entry.
> 
> Happy turnings everybody!


Git er done, William. You deserve it. Happy turning to you.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Move Along, Nothing To See Here*
> 
> I have to apologize. I have no new project or techinques or newly learned advice to share today. I just felt a need to post today about yesterday's non-progress.
> 
> First of all, I did not make much yesterday. I did make my kids some sort of spinning top things. I call them "some sort of" because they weren't great. They were just ideas I was working on as I went along. The kids liked them though. Before I could even think of whether I wished to snap a photo or not, they had broken one and spun the other one under a low lying heavy table where it may stay awhile before being retrieved. I may go back to this idea at a later day. I seen in the Penn State Catalogue where I can get ball bearing inserts for these and yo-yos. I think my kids would absolutely love those when I get to a point where I can afford to add that to an existing order.
> On that note, the tops. While I seen them as an idea that I was kicking around, my kids seen them as fascinating new toys. The reason I bring this up is my evergrowing concerns about today's youth. My kids are different than most these days. Yes they have video games, but I push them to work more than just their fingers on a game controller. They like simple toys, like jacks, marble, cards, and such. Watching them play with the spinning tops yesterday though reminded me that today's kids aren't much different than we were. Some of them just need to be introduced to simpler things earlier in life, while they are still young enough to enjoy them.
> What I did do yesterday was mostly search and play. First, the search. I knew I had it, I just had to find it. I've been doing mostly flat work for so long that the highest grit sandpaper I had on hand was 400 grit, and seldom went that high. Now that I've started turning though, I'm finding myself more and more needed finer paper. I had stashed some away a long time ago. As usual though, when I put something where I'll know where it's at, I have troubles finding it when I need to know where it's at. I found it, it is a box I had with a hoard of sandpaper I had bought a long time ago at a good deal. This is various grits all the way up to 2000 grit.
> So I played around for a long time yesterday with sanding up higher on the lathe than what I've been doing. Boy does it make a difference. If you carefully sand up through the grits, and it doesn't take long on a spinning lathe, you can get a sanded finish that looks almost like glass, and this is before you apply any type of finish. So now I can sand my turned projects to look better.
> 
> Some of you may remember my less than great opinion of the router bit tool I was recently given when I tried it on bowls. I told then that I would one day give it another go on spindle. Well, since I had messed up on one of the spinning top ideas yesterday, I took it as an opportunity to give that tool another try.
> First all, you can see or order the tool here if you'd like. I did not put that in the original review of this item because, as it was a gift to me, I did not know exactly where to get one. It turns out it came from my favorite turning supplier, Penn State.
> On spindles is where this tool shines. While I couldn't do anything with it on bowls, it felt like there was little that I could NOT do with it on spindle stock. It cuts easier, with no sharpening so far, and leaves a finish that is ready for only the finer grits of sandpaper. The only drawback, and an expected one, was with the router bit that came in the tool. It seems to be kind of dull from the factory. Once I decided to try a better quality bit in it, it cut like hot butter.
> My only gripe with this tool would be my percieved overall cost savings, which would be little to none. I learned the hard way long time ago not to mess with cheap router bits. The Freud bits that I buy locally run about thirty bucks a piece, so I only buy the ones I need. That being said, if I were to use one of these bits extensively in this lathe tool, I would worry about dulling one side more than the other, or messing with the balance of it. Therefore, if I was to use this tool much, I would lean towards buying bits just to be used in the lathe tool. At thirty bucks a piece, I can't see the cost savings over prices I've seen for dedicated lathe tools.
> So as usual, in my opinion, any tool that does many things, while it may do some well, usually does so with compromises. Even I sometimes decide to make those compromises if the cost savings are great enough to make it worth doing so. I still just don't see that here. On the other hand, if you have many extra router bits that are not being used, such as when buying whole sets, then this tool may be just the perfect tool for you to finally put those extra bits to use.
> 
> .
> 
> The next thing I want to talk about is kindness. A fellow Lumberjock has given me an emial gift certificate. I am not at liberty at the moment to tell who or how much. I will say though that it was generous, and an unexpected act of kindness that left me speechless.
> This person, although I'd seen and talked to (I think) a couple of times here on Lumberjocks, I really do not know on a personal level like I do some other jocks here. So to me, this person was pretty much a stranger. I've had friends do things for me before, and even those occassions kind of put me off guard. I'm just not the sort of man who's used to people doing things for me. I do for myself with whatever I may or may not have left over after providing for my family. That's just the way it's always been. So, when someone I hardly know does something like this person has it just floors me.
> Enough of that. I was speechless yesterday. Today I can go on and on about it. I just wish to say to this person, thank you from the bottom of my heart. It was extremely kind of you. I will be sending something your way as soon as I can as a token of my gratitude. Still though, it doesn't repay the help you've provided to get me started with some proper pen making supplies. I pray that your kindness is returned upon you. If I lived closer to you I would come take care of your yard, do your dishes, or something.
> Ok, I said enough of that didn't I?
> So, I had to figure out what to order with the gift certificate. Sounds simple enough doesn't it? It is amazing though how many options there are in pen turning on the Penn State website.
> I wound up ordering a mandrel, which I will have to have in order to make these proper pens. I ordered extra bushings because everywhere I read for advice says you need to have extras on hand. They are cheap too, so that wasn't bad. Then, with bundle kits, I got a total of thirty eight pen kits. There isn't a huge variety in what I ordered. The idea though, in my opinion, is to get started. These will give me the practice and then I can move up from there on trying different styles to see what I like best.
> Again, thank you so much. I wish I could, but I can't think of anything else to say on that matter that I haven't already said. So on that note, I will end my rambling now for this entry.
> 
> Happy turnings everybody!


Stefang, I hadn't thought of putting a metal tip on the tops. I will definately try that next time I turn one. 
I do like experimenting a lot with different things. I look at everything I do on it as a chance to learn or improve upon a technique.

Randy, there are good people in the world, as a matter of fact, wait till you read all of this reply.

I would like to publicly thank Doe. She said it would be embarrassing but that it was alright anyway for me to tell publicly that she is the one who sent me the gift card. Since she said it may embarrass her, I thought about keeping it private, but after reading you guy's replies, I couldn't. I wanted to let ya'll know who it was and that yes, she is proof that there are generous people out there who do nice things without thinking about what they get out of it. I will be making Doe a gift, but she didn't ask for it. As a matter of fact, she didn't ask for anything at all. I just want to show my appreciation with some small token. Thank you Doe. It was extremely generous the gift you gave to me.

Now, the reason I say Randy had to wait until reading this.

After finally accepting this gift as gracefully as my pride would allow me to do, I got another shocker today, and I may not even know who done this one. I hope to find out though. Few people have my actual address, so the circle of people who could be the guilty party is small.
I mentioned somewhere on this site that when I got the money I was going to get a thread adapter and new live center for my smaller, Ridgid lathe so I could do bowls on the larger lathe and small project exclusively on the smaller lathe. I hadn't thought much else about it and knew it was something that could wait. 
Well the mail ran today. In the mail was a small box from Penn State. This confused me greatly since I just placed the order for my pen kits and such last night. Someone paid for, and had shipped to me anonamously, the adapter and live center with #1 morse taper, the parts I needed for my smaller lathe. 
Whoever done this, thank you. Please though, I beg of you, please let me know who done it. If you don't want it known publicly who you are, I will keep it private. You can send me a private message. I would like to know though so I can at least thank you personally and send you some small token of my appreciation for this.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Move Along, Nothing To See Here*
> 
> I have to apologize. I have no new project or techinques or newly learned advice to share today. I just felt a need to post today about yesterday's non-progress.
> 
> First of all, I did not make much yesterday. I did make my kids some sort of spinning top things. I call them "some sort of" because they weren't great. They were just ideas I was working on as I went along. The kids liked them though. Before I could even think of whether I wished to snap a photo or not, they had broken one and spun the other one under a low lying heavy table where it may stay awhile before being retrieved. I may go back to this idea at a later day. I seen in the Penn State Catalogue where I can get ball bearing inserts for these and yo-yos. I think my kids would absolutely love those when I get to a point where I can afford to add that to an existing order.
> On that note, the tops. While I seen them as an idea that I was kicking around, my kids seen them as fascinating new toys. The reason I bring this up is my evergrowing concerns about today's youth. My kids are different than most these days. Yes they have video games, but I push them to work more than just their fingers on a game controller. They like simple toys, like jacks, marble, cards, and such. Watching them play with the spinning tops yesterday though reminded me that today's kids aren't much different than we were. Some of them just need to be introduced to simpler things earlier in life, while they are still young enough to enjoy them.
> What I did do yesterday was mostly search and play. First, the search. I knew I had it, I just had to find it. I've been doing mostly flat work for so long that the highest grit sandpaper I had on hand was 400 grit, and seldom went that high. Now that I've started turning though, I'm finding myself more and more needed finer paper. I had stashed some away a long time ago. As usual though, when I put something where I'll know where it's at, I have troubles finding it when I need to know where it's at. I found it, it is a box I had with a hoard of sandpaper I had bought a long time ago at a good deal. This is various grits all the way up to 2000 grit.
> So I played around for a long time yesterday with sanding up higher on the lathe than what I've been doing. Boy does it make a difference. If you carefully sand up through the grits, and it doesn't take long on a spinning lathe, you can get a sanded finish that looks almost like glass, and this is before you apply any type of finish. So now I can sand my turned projects to look better.
> 
> Some of you may remember my less than great opinion of the router bit tool I was recently given when I tried it on bowls. I told then that I would one day give it another go on spindle. Well, since I had messed up on one of the spinning top ideas yesterday, I took it as an opportunity to give that tool another try.
> First all, you can see or order the tool here if you'd like. I did not put that in the original review of this item because, as it was a gift to me, I did not know exactly where to get one. It turns out it came from my favorite turning supplier, Penn State.
> On spindles is where this tool shines. While I couldn't do anything with it on bowls, it felt like there was little that I could NOT do with it on spindle stock. It cuts easier, with no sharpening so far, and leaves a finish that is ready for only the finer grits of sandpaper. The only drawback, and an expected one, was with the router bit that came in the tool. It seems to be kind of dull from the factory. Once I decided to try a better quality bit in it, it cut like hot butter.
> My only gripe with this tool would be my percieved overall cost savings, which would be little to none. I learned the hard way long time ago not to mess with cheap router bits. The Freud bits that I buy locally run about thirty bucks a piece, so I only buy the ones I need. That being said, if I were to use one of these bits extensively in this lathe tool, I would worry about dulling one side more than the other, or messing with the balance of it. Therefore, if I was to use this tool much, I would lean towards buying bits just to be used in the lathe tool. At thirty bucks a piece, I can't see the cost savings over prices I've seen for dedicated lathe tools.
> So as usual, in my opinion, any tool that does many things, while it may do some well, usually does so with compromises. Even I sometimes decide to make those compromises if the cost savings are great enough to make it worth doing so. I still just don't see that here. On the other hand, if you have many extra router bits that are not being used, such as when buying whole sets, then this tool may be just the perfect tool for you to finally put those extra bits to use.
> 
> .
> 
> The next thing I want to talk about is kindness. A fellow Lumberjock has given me an emial gift certificate. I am not at liberty at the moment to tell who or how much. I will say though that it was generous, and an unexpected act of kindness that left me speechless.
> This person, although I'd seen and talked to (I think) a couple of times here on Lumberjocks, I really do not know on a personal level like I do some other jocks here. So to me, this person was pretty much a stranger. I've had friends do things for me before, and even those occassions kind of put me off guard. I'm just not the sort of man who's used to people doing things for me. I do for myself with whatever I may or may not have left over after providing for my family. That's just the way it's always been. So, when someone I hardly know does something like this person has it just floors me.
> Enough of that. I was speechless yesterday. Today I can go on and on about it. I just wish to say to this person, thank you from the bottom of my heart. It was extremely kind of you. I will be sending something your way as soon as I can as a token of my gratitude. Still though, it doesn't repay the help you've provided to get me started with some proper pen making supplies. I pray that your kindness is returned upon you. If I lived closer to you I would come take care of your yard, do your dishes, or something.
> Ok, I said enough of that didn't I?
> So, I had to figure out what to order with the gift certificate. Sounds simple enough doesn't it? It is amazing though how many options there are in pen turning on the Penn State website.
> I wound up ordering a mandrel, which I will have to have in order to make these proper pens. I ordered extra bushings because everywhere I read for advice says you need to have extras on hand. They are cheap too, so that wasn't bad. Then, with bundle kits, I got a total of thirty eight pen kits. There isn't a huge variety in what I ordered. The idea though, in my opinion, is to get started. These will give me the practice and then I can move up from there on trying different styles to see what I like best.
> Again, thank you so much. I wish I could, but I can't think of anything else to say on that matter that I haven't already said. So on that note, I will end my rambling now for this entry.
> 
> Happy turnings everybody!


Thank you Roger.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Move Along, Nothing To See Here*
> 
> I have to apologize. I have no new project or techinques or newly learned advice to share today. I just felt a need to post today about yesterday's non-progress.
> 
> First of all, I did not make much yesterday. I did make my kids some sort of spinning top things. I call them "some sort of" because they weren't great. They were just ideas I was working on as I went along. The kids liked them though. Before I could even think of whether I wished to snap a photo or not, they had broken one and spun the other one under a low lying heavy table where it may stay awhile before being retrieved. I may go back to this idea at a later day. I seen in the Penn State Catalogue where I can get ball bearing inserts for these and yo-yos. I think my kids would absolutely love those when I get to a point where I can afford to add that to an existing order.
> On that note, the tops. While I seen them as an idea that I was kicking around, my kids seen them as fascinating new toys. The reason I bring this up is my evergrowing concerns about today's youth. My kids are different than most these days. Yes they have video games, but I push them to work more than just their fingers on a game controller. They like simple toys, like jacks, marble, cards, and such. Watching them play with the spinning tops yesterday though reminded me that today's kids aren't much different than we were. Some of them just need to be introduced to simpler things earlier in life, while they are still young enough to enjoy them.
> What I did do yesterday was mostly search and play. First, the search. I knew I had it, I just had to find it. I've been doing mostly flat work for so long that the highest grit sandpaper I had on hand was 400 grit, and seldom went that high. Now that I've started turning though, I'm finding myself more and more needed finer paper. I had stashed some away a long time ago. As usual though, when I put something where I'll know where it's at, I have troubles finding it when I need to know where it's at. I found it, it is a box I had with a hoard of sandpaper I had bought a long time ago at a good deal. This is various grits all the way up to 2000 grit.
> So I played around for a long time yesterday with sanding up higher on the lathe than what I've been doing. Boy does it make a difference. If you carefully sand up through the grits, and it doesn't take long on a spinning lathe, you can get a sanded finish that looks almost like glass, and this is before you apply any type of finish. So now I can sand my turned projects to look better.
> 
> Some of you may remember my less than great opinion of the router bit tool I was recently given when I tried it on bowls. I told then that I would one day give it another go on spindle. Well, since I had messed up on one of the spinning top ideas yesterday, I took it as an opportunity to give that tool another try.
> First all, you can see or order the tool here if you'd like. I did not put that in the original review of this item because, as it was a gift to me, I did not know exactly where to get one. It turns out it came from my favorite turning supplier, Penn State.
> On spindles is where this tool shines. While I couldn't do anything with it on bowls, it felt like there was little that I could NOT do with it on spindle stock. It cuts easier, with no sharpening so far, and leaves a finish that is ready for only the finer grits of sandpaper. The only drawback, and an expected one, was with the router bit that came in the tool. It seems to be kind of dull from the factory. Once I decided to try a better quality bit in it, it cut like hot butter.
> My only gripe with this tool would be my percieved overall cost savings, which would be little to none. I learned the hard way long time ago not to mess with cheap router bits. The Freud bits that I buy locally run about thirty bucks a piece, so I only buy the ones I need. That being said, if I were to use one of these bits extensively in this lathe tool, I would worry about dulling one side more than the other, or messing with the balance of it. Therefore, if I was to use this tool much, I would lean towards buying bits just to be used in the lathe tool. At thirty bucks a piece, I can't see the cost savings over prices I've seen for dedicated lathe tools.
> So as usual, in my opinion, any tool that does many things, while it may do some well, usually does so with compromises. Even I sometimes decide to make those compromises if the cost savings are great enough to make it worth doing so. I still just don't see that here. On the other hand, if you have many extra router bits that are not being used, such as when buying whole sets, then this tool may be just the perfect tool for you to finally put those extra bits to use.
> 
> .
> 
> The next thing I want to talk about is kindness. A fellow Lumberjock has given me an emial gift certificate. I am not at liberty at the moment to tell who or how much. I will say though that it was generous, and an unexpected act of kindness that left me speechless.
> This person, although I'd seen and talked to (I think) a couple of times here on Lumberjocks, I really do not know on a personal level like I do some other jocks here. So to me, this person was pretty much a stranger. I've had friends do things for me before, and even those occassions kind of put me off guard. I'm just not the sort of man who's used to people doing things for me. I do for myself with whatever I may or may not have left over after providing for my family. That's just the way it's always been. So, when someone I hardly know does something like this person has it just floors me.
> Enough of that. I was speechless yesterday. Today I can go on and on about it. I just wish to say to this person, thank you from the bottom of my heart. It was extremely kind of you. I will be sending something your way as soon as I can as a token of my gratitude. Still though, it doesn't repay the help you've provided to get me started with some proper pen making supplies. I pray that your kindness is returned upon you. If I lived closer to you I would come take care of your yard, do your dishes, or something.
> Ok, I said enough of that didn't I?
> So, I had to figure out what to order with the gift certificate. Sounds simple enough doesn't it? It is amazing though how many options there are in pen turning on the Penn State website.
> I wound up ordering a mandrel, which I will have to have in order to make these proper pens. I ordered extra bushings because everywhere I read for advice says you need to have extras on hand. They are cheap too, so that wasn't bad. Then, with bundle kits, I got a total of thirty eight pen kits. There isn't a huge variety in what I ordered. The idea though, in my opinion, is to get started. These will give me the practice and then I can move up from there on trying different styles to see what I like best.
> Again, thank you so much. I wish I could, but I can't think of anything else to say on that matter that I haven't already said. So on that note, I will end my rambling now for this entry.
> 
> Happy turnings everybody!


William, I am so glad that you are the recipient of these "random acts of kindness". You deserve them. I too have received gifts (wood) from people on this site that I have never met. It really touched me every time. There are some wonderful folks here! The advice I have received is priceless as well. Enjoy yer new "stuff".


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Move Along, Nothing To See Here*
> 
> I have to apologize. I have no new project or techinques or newly learned advice to share today. I just felt a need to post today about yesterday's non-progress.
> 
> First of all, I did not make much yesterday. I did make my kids some sort of spinning top things. I call them "some sort of" because they weren't great. They were just ideas I was working on as I went along. The kids liked them though. Before I could even think of whether I wished to snap a photo or not, they had broken one and spun the other one under a low lying heavy table where it may stay awhile before being retrieved. I may go back to this idea at a later day. I seen in the Penn State Catalogue where I can get ball bearing inserts for these and yo-yos. I think my kids would absolutely love those when I get to a point where I can afford to add that to an existing order.
> On that note, the tops. While I seen them as an idea that I was kicking around, my kids seen them as fascinating new toys. The reason I bring this up is my evergrowing concerns about today's youth. My kids are different than most these days. Yes they have video games, but I push them to work more than just their fingers on a game controller. They like simple toys, like jacks, marble, cards, and such. Watching them play with the spinning tops yesterday though reminded me that today's kids aren't much different than we were. Some of them just need to be introduced to simpler things earlier in life, while they are still young enough to enjoy them.
> What I did do yesterday was mostly search and play. First, the search. I knew I had it, I just had to find it. I've been doing mostly flat work for so long that the highest grit sandpaper I had on hand was 400 grit, and seldom went that high. Now that I've started turning though, I'm finding myself more and more needed finer paper. I had stashed some away a long time ago. As usual though, when I put something where I'll know where it's at, I have troubles finding it when I need to know where it's at. I found it, it is a box I had with a hoard of sandpaper I had bought a long time ago at a good deal. This is various grits all the way up to 2000 grit.
> So I played around for a long time yesterday with sanding up higher on the lathe than what I've been doing. Boy does it make a difference. If you carefully sand up through the grits, and it doesn't take long on a spinning lathe, you can get a sanded finish that looks almost like glass, and this is before you apply any type of finish. So now I can sand my turned projects to look better.
> 
> Some of you may remember my less than great opinion of the router bit tool I was recently given when I tried it on bowls. I told then that I would one day give it another go on spindle. Well, since I had messed up on one of the spinning top ideas yesterday, I took it as an opportunity to give that tool another try.
> First all, you can see or order the tool here if you'd like. I did not put that in the original review of this item because, as it was a gift to me, I did not know exactly where to get one. It turns out it came from my favorite turning supplier, Penn State.
> On spindles is where this tool shines. While I couldn't do anything with it on bowls, it felt like there was little that I could NOT do with it on spindle stock. It cuts easier, with no sharpening so far, and leaves a finish that is ready for only the finer grits of sandpaper. The only drawback, and an expected one, was with the router bit that came in the tool. It seems to be kind of dull from the factory. Once I decided to try a better quality bit in it, it cut like hot butter.
> My only gripe with this tool would be my percieved overall cost savings, which would be little to none. I learned the hard way long time ago not to mess with cheap router bits. The Freud bits that I buy locally run about thirty bucks a piece, so I only buy the ones I need. That being said, if I were to use one of these bits extensively in this lathe tool, I would worry about dulling one side more than the other, or messing with the balance of it. Therefore, if I was to use this tool much, I would lean towards buying bits just to be used in the lathe tool. At thirty bucks a piece, I can't see the cost savings over prices I've seen for dedicated lathe tools.
> So as usual, in my opinion, any tool that does many things, while it may do some well, usually does so with compromises. Even I sometimes decide to make those compromises if the cost savings are great enough to make it worth doing so. I still just don't see that here. On the other hand, if you have many extra router bits that are not being used, such as when buying whole sets, then this tool may be just the perfect tool for you to finally put those extra bits to use.
> 
> .
> 
> The next thing I want to talk about is kindness. A fellow Lumberjock has given me an emial gift certificate. I am not at liberty at the moment to tell who or how much. I will say though that it was generous, and an unexpected act of kindness that left me speechless.
> This person, although I'd seen and talked to (I think) a couple of times here on Lumberjocks, I really do not know on a personal level like I do some other jocks here. So to me, this person was pretty much a stranger. I've had friends do things for me before, and even those occassions kind of put me off guard. I'm just not the sort of man who's used to people doing things for me. I do for myself with whatever I may or may not have left over after providing for my family. That's just the way it's always been. So, when someone I hardly know does something like this person has it just floors me.
> Enough of that. I was speechless yesterday. Today I can go on and on about it. I just wish to say to this person, thank you from the bottom of my heart. It was extremely kind of you. I will be sending something your way as soon as I can as a token of my gratitude. Still though, it doesn't repay the help you've provided to get me started with some proper pen making supplies. I pray that your kindness is returned upon you. If I lived closer to you I would come take care of your yard, do your dishes, or something.
> Ok, I said enough of that didn't I?
> So, I had to figure out what to order with the gift certificate. Sounds simple enough doesn't it? It is amazing though how many options there are in pen turning on the Penn State website.
> I wound up ordering a mandrel, which I will have to have in order to make these proper pens. I ordered extra bushings because everywhere I read for advice says you need to have extras on hand. They are cheap too, so that wasn't bad. Then, with bundle kits, I got a total of thirty eight pen kits. There isn't a huge variety in what I ordered. The idea though, in my opinion, is to get started. These will give me the practice and then I can move up from there on trying different styles to see what I like best.
> Again, thank you so much. I wish I could, but I can't think of anything else to say on that matter that I haven't already said. So on that note, I will end my rambling now for this entry.
> 
> Happy turnings everybody!


Thanks Andy.
It amazes me sometimes. From my experience personally, overall, wood workers are some of the most generous people in the world. Other hobbies I've seen carry deeply held secrets and groups that treat others like outsiders. Most wood workers though are happy to help and share as much as we can. I think it comes from a lot of us being older and understanding that if we don't teach, this passion and what really is a dying art, will die with us.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Move Along, Nothing To See Here*
> 
> I have to apologize. I have no new project or techinques or newly learned advice to share today. I just felt a need to post today about yesterday's non-progress.
> 
> First of all, I did not make much yesterday. I did make my kids some sort of spinning top things. I call them "some sort of" because they weren't great. They were just ideas I was working on as I went along. The kids liked them though. Before I could even think of whether I wished to snap a photo or not, they had broken one and spun the other one under a low lying heavy table where it may stay awhile before being retrieved. I may go back to this idea at a later day. I seen in the Penn State Catalogue where I can get ball bearing inserts for these and yo-yos. I think my kids would absolutely love those when I get to a point where I can afford to add that to an existing order.
> On that note, the tops. While I seen them as an idea that I was kicking around, my kids seen them as fascinating new toys. The reason I bring this up is my evergrowing concerns about today's youth. My kids are different than most these days. Yes they have video games, but I push them to work more than just their fingers on a game controller. They like simple toys, like jacks, marble, cards, and such. Watching them play with the spinning tops yesterday though reminded me that today's kids aren't much different than we were. Some of them just need to be introduced to simpler things earlier in life, while they are still young enough to enjoy them.
> What I did do yesterday was mostly search and play. First, the search. I knew I had it, I just had to find it. I've been doing mostly flat work for so long that the highest grit sandpaper I had on hand was 400 grit, and seldom went that high. Now that I've started turning though, I'm finding myself more and more needed finer paper. I had stashed some away a long time ago. As usual though, when I put something where I'll know where it's at, I have troubles finding it when I need to know where it's at. I found it, it is a box I had with a hoard of sandpaper I had bought a long time ago at a good deal. This is various grits all the way up to 2000 grit.
> So I played around for a long time yesterday with sanding up higher on the lathe than what I've been doing. Boy does it make a difference. If you carefully sand up through the grits, and it doesn't take long on a spinning lathe, you can get a sanded finish that looks almost like glass, and this is before you apply any type of finish. So now I can sand my turned projects to look better.
> 
> Some of you may remember my less than great opinion of the router bit tool I was recently given when I tried it on bowls. I told then that I would one day give it another go on spindle. Well, since I had messed up on one of the spinning top ideas yesterday, I took it as an opportunity to give that tool another try.
> First all, you can see or order the tool here if you'd like. I did not put that in the original review of this item because, as it was a gift to me, I did not know exactly where to get one. It turns out it came from my favorite turning supplier, Penn State.
> On spindles is where this tool shines. While I couldn't do anything with it on bowls, it felt like there was little that I could NOT do with it on spindle stock. It cuts easier, with no sharpening so far, and leaves a finish that is ready for only the finer grits of sandpaper. The only drawback, and an expected one, was with the router bit that came in the tool. It seems to be kind of dull from the factory. Once I decided to try a better quality bit in it, it cut like hot butter.
> My only gripe with this tool would be my percieved overall cost savings, which would be little to none. I learned the hard way long time ago not to mess with cheap router bits. The Freud bits that I buy locally run about thirty bucks a piece, so I only buy the ones I need. That being said, if I were to use one of these bits extensively in this lathe tool, I would worry about dulling one side more than the other, or messing with the balance of it. Therefore, if I was to use this tool much, I would lean towards buying bits just to be used in the lathe tool. At thirty bucks a piece, I can't see the cost savings over prices I've seen for dedicated lathe tools.
> So as usual, in my opinion, any tool that does many things, while it may do some well, usually does so with compromises. Even I sometimes decide to make those compromises if the cost savings are great enough to make it worth doing so. I still just don't see that here. On the other hand, if you have many extra router bits that are not being used, such as when buying whole sets, then this tool may be just the perfect tool for you to finally put those extra bits to use.
> 
> .
> 
> The next thing I want to talk about is kindness. A fellow Lumberjock has given me an emial gift certificate. I am not at liberty at the moment to tell who or how much. I will say though that it was generous, and an unexpected act of kindness that left me speechless.
> This person, although I'd seen and talked to (I think) a couple of times here on Lumberjocks, I really do not know on a personal level like I do some other jocks here. So to me, this person was pretty much a stranger. I've had friends do things for me before, and even those occassions kind of put me off guard. I'm just not the sort of man who's used to people doing things for me. I do for myself with whatever I may or may not have left over after providing for my family. That's just the way it's always been. So, when someone I hardly know does something like this person has it just floors me.
> Enough of that. I was speechless yesterday. Today I can go on and on about it. I just wish to say to this person, thank you from the bottom of my heart. It was extremely kind of you. I will be sending something your way as soon as I can as a token of my gratitude. Still though, it doesn't repay the help you've provided to get me started with some proper pen making supplies. I pray that your kindness is returned upon you. If I lived closer to you I would come take care of your yard, do your dishes, or something.
> Ok, I said enough of that didn't I?
> So, I had to figure out what to order with the gift certificate. Sounds simple enough doesn't it? It is amazing though how many options there are in pen turning on the Penn State website.
> I wound up ordering a mandrel, which I will have to have in order to make these proper pens. I ordered extra bushings because everywhere I read for advice says you need to have extras on hand. They are cheap too, so that wasn't bad. Then, with bundle kits, I got a total of thirty eight pen kits. There isn't a huge variety in what I ordered. The idea though, in my opinion, is to get started. These will give me the practice and then I can move up from there on trying different styles to see what I like best.
> Again, thank you so much. I wish I could, but I can't think of anything else to say on that matter that I haven't already said. So on that note, I will end my rambling now for this entry.
> 
> Happy turnings everybody!


That's a noble explanation William but my take is that we're a lot of old farts that enjoy the company of other old farts!


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Move Along, Nothing To See Here*
> 
> I have to apologize. I have no new project or techinques or newly learned advice to share today. I just felt a need to post today about yesterday's non-progress.
> 
> First of all, I did not make much yesterday. I did make my kids some sort of spinning top things. I call them "some sort of" because they weren't great. They were just ideas I was working on as I went along. The kids liked them though. Before I could even think of whether I wished to snap a photo or not, they had broken one and spun the other one under a low lying heavy table where it may stay awhile before being retrieved. I may go back to this idea at a later day. I seen in the Penn State Catalogue where I can get ball bearing inserts for these and yo-yos. I think my kids would absolutely love those when I get to a point where I can afford to add that to an existing order.
> On that note, the tops. While I seen them as an idea that I was kicking around, my kids seen them as fascinating new toys. The reason I bring this up is my evergrowing concerns about today's youth. My kids are different than most these days. Yes they have video games, but I push them to work more than just their fingers on a game controller. They like simple toys, like jacks, marble, cards, and such. Watching them play with the spinning tops yesterday though reminded me that today's kids aren't much different than we were. Some of them just need to be introduced to simpler things earlier in life, while they are still young enough to enjoy them.
> What I did do yesterday was mostly search and play. First, the search. I knew I had it, I just had to find it. I've been doing mostly flat work for so long that the highest grit sandpaper I had on hand was 400 grit, and seldom went that high. Now that I've started turning though, I'm finding myself more and more needed finer paper. I had stashed some away a long time ago. As usual though, when I put something where I'll know where it's at, I have troubles finding it when I need to know where it's at. I found it, it is a box I had with a hoard of sandpaper I had bought a long time ago at a good deal. This is various grits all the way up to 2000 grit.
> So I played around for a long time yesterday with sanding up higher on the lathe than what I've been doing. Boy does it make a difference. If you carefully sand up through the grits, and it doesn't take long on a spinning lathe, you can get a sanded finish that looks almost like glass, and this is before you apply any type of finish. So now I can sand my turned projects to look better.
> 
> Some of you may remember my less than great opinion of the router bit tool I was recently given when I tried it on bowls. I told then that I would one day give it another go on spindle. Well, since I had messed up on one of the spinning top ideas yesterday, I took it as an opportunity to give that tool another try.
> First all, you can see or order the tool here if you'd like. I did not put that in the original review of this item because, as it was a gift to me, I did not know exactly where to get one. It turns out it came from my favorite turning supplier, Penn State.
> On spindles is where this tool shines. While I couldn't do anything with it on bowls, it felt like there was little that I could NOT do with it on spindle stock. It cuts easier, with no sharpening so far, and leaves a finish that is ready for only the finer grits of sandpaper. The only drawback, and an expected one, was with the router bit that came in the tool. It seems to be kind of dull from the factory. Once I decided to try a better quality bit in it, it cut like hot butter.
> My only gripe with this tool would be my percieved overall cost savings, which would be little to none. I learned the hard way long time ago not to mess with cheap router bits. The Freud bits that I buy locally run about thirty bucks a piece, so I only buy the ones I need. That being said, if I were to use one of these bits extensively in this lathe tool, I would worry about dulling one side more than the other, or messing with the balance of it. Therefore, if I was to use this tool much, I would lean towards buying bits just to be used in the lathe tool. At thirty bucks a piece, I can't see the cost savings over prices I've seen for dedicated lathe tools.
> So as usual, in my opinion, any tool that does many things, while it may do some well, usually does so with compromises. Even I sometimes decide to make those compromises if the cost savings are great enough to make it worth doing so. I still just don't see that here. On the other hand, if you have many extra router bits that are not being used, such as when buying whole sets, then this tool may be just the perfect tool for you to finally put those extra bits to use.
> 
> .
> 
> The next thing I want to talk about is kindness. A fellow Lumberjock has given me an emial gift certificate. I am not at liberty at the moment to tell who or how much. I will say though that it was generous, and an unexpected act of kindness that left me speechless.
> This person, although I'd seen and talked to (I think) a couple of times here on Lumberjocks, I really do not know on a personal level like I do some other jocks here. So to me, this person was pretty much a stranger. I've had friends do things for me before, and even those occassions kind of put me off guard. I'm just not the sort of man who's used to people doing things for me. I do for myself with whatever I may or may not have left over after providing for my family. That's just the way it's always been. So, when someone I hardly know does something like this person has it just floors me.
> Enough of that. I was speechless yesterday. Today I can go on and on about it. I just wish to say to this person, thank you from the bottom of my heart. It was extremely kind of you. I will be sending something your way as soon as I can as a token of my gratitude. Still though, it doesn't repay the help you've provided to get me started with some proper pen making supplies. I pray that your kindness is returned upon you. If I lived closer to you I would come take care of your yard, do your dishes, or something.
> Ok, I said enough of that didn't I?
> So, I had to figure out what to order with the gift certificate. Sounds simple enough doesn't it? It is amazing though how many options there are in pen turning on the Penn State website.
> I wound up ordering a mandrel, which I will have to have in order to make these proper pens. I ordered extra bushings because everywhere I read for advice says you need to have extras on hand. They are cheap too, so that wasn't bad. Then, with bundle kits, I got a total of thirty eight pen kits. There isn't a huge variety in what I ordered. The idea though, in my opinion, is to get started. These will give me the practice and then I can move up from there on trying different styles to see what I like best.
> Again, thank you so much. I wish I could, but I can't think of anything else to say on that matter that I haven't already said. So on that note, I will end my rambling now for this entry.
> 
> Happy turnings everybody!


William,
Something I have found that greatly enhances the finish of my turnings is to burnish them with the shavings from the project. It adds a shine that rivals the finest sanding grits.
I just hold a handful of the shavings against the turning as the lathe is spinning at a moderate speed.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Move Along, Nothing To See Here*
> 
> I have to apologize. I have no new project or techinques or newly learned advice to share today. I just felt a need to post today about yesterday's non-progress.
> 
> First of all, I did not make much yesterday. I did make my kids some sort of spinning top things. I call them "some sort of" because they weren't great. They were just ideas I was working on as I went along. The kids liked them though. Before I could even think of whether I wished to snap a photo or not, they had broken one and spun the other one under a low lying heavy table where it may stay awhile before being retrieved. I may go back to this idea at a later day. I seen in the Penn State Catalogue where I can get ball bearing inserts for these and yo-yos. I think my kids would absolutely love those when I get to a point where I can afford to add that to an existing order.
> On that note, the tops. While I seen them as an idea that I was kicking around, my kids seen them as fascinating new toys. The reason I bring this up is my evergrowing concerns about today's youth. My kids are different than most these days. Yes they have video games, but I push them to work more than just their fingers on a game controller. They like simple toys, like jacks, marble, cards, and such. Watching them play with the spinning tops yesterday though reminded me that today's kids aren't much different than we were. Some of them just need to be introduced to simpler things earlier in life, while they are still young enough to enjoy them.
> What I did do yesterday was mostly search and play. First, the search. I knew I had it, I just had to find it. I've been doing mostly flat work for so long that the highest grit sandpaper I had on hand was 400 grit, and seldom went that high. Now that I've started turning though, I'm finding myself more and more needed finer paper. I had stashed some away a long time ago. As usual though, when I put something where I'll know where it's at, I have troubles finding it when I need to know where it's at. I found it, it is a box I had with a hoard of sandpaper I had bought a long time ago at a good deal. This is various grits all the way up to 2000 grit.
> So I played around for a long time yesterday with sanding up higher on the lathe than what I've been doing. Boy does it make a difference. If you carefully sand up through the grits, and it doesn't take long on a spinning lathe, you can get a sanded finish that looks almost like glass, and this is before you apply any type of finish. So now I can sand my turned projects to look better.
> 
> Some of you may remember my less than great opinion of the router bit tool I was recently given when I tried it on bowls. I told then that I would one day give it another go on spindle. Well, since I had messed up on one of the spinning top ideas yesterday, I took it as an opportunity to give that tool another try.
> First all, you can see or order the tool here if you'd like. I did not put that in the original review of this item because, as it was a gift to me, I did not know exactly where to get one. It turns out it came from my favorite turning supplier, Penn State.
> On spindles is where this tool shines. While I couldn't do anything with it on bowls, it felt like there was little that I could NOT do with it on spindle stock. It cuts easier, with no sharpening so far, and leaves a finish that is ready for only the finer grits of sandpaper. The only drawback, and an expected one, was with the router bit that came in the tool. It seems to be kind of dull from the factory. Once I decided to try a better quality bit in it, it cut like hot butter.
> My only gripe with this tool would be my percieved overall cost savings, which would be little to none. I learned the hard way long time ago not to mess with cheap router bits. The Freud bits that I buy locally run about thirty bucks a piece, so I only buy the ones I need. That being said, if I were to use one of these bits extensively in this lathe tool, I would worry about dulling one side more than the other, or messing with the balance of it. Therefore, if I was to use this tool much, I would lean towards buying bits just to be used in the lathe tool. At thirty bucks a piece, I can't see the cost savings over prices I've seen for dedicated lathe tools.
> So as usual, in my opinion, any tool that does many things, while it may do some well, usually does so with compromises. Even I sometimes decide to make those compromises if the cost savings are great enough to make it worth doing so. I still just don't see that here. On the other hand, if you have many extra router bits that are not being used, such as when buying whole sets, then this tool may be just the perfect tool for you to finally put those extra bits to use.
> 
> .
> 
> The next thing I want to talk about is kindness. A fellow Lumberjock has given me an emial gift certificate. I am not at liberty at the moment to tell who or how much. I will say though that it was generous, and an unexpected act of kindness that left me speechless.
> This person, although I'd seen and talked to (I think) a couple of times here on Lumberjocks, I really do not know on a personal level like I do some other jocks here. So to me, this person was pretty much a stranger. I've had friends do things for me before, and even those occassions kind of put me off guard. I'm just not the sort of man who's used to people doing things for me. I do for myself with whatever I may or may not have left over after providing for my family. That's just the way it's always been. So, when someone I hardly know does something like this person has it just floors me.
> Enough of that. I was speechless yesterday. Today I can go on and on about it. I just wish to say to this person, thank you from the bottom of my heart. It was extremely kind of you. I will be sending something your way as soon as I can as a token of my gratitude. Still though, it doesn't repay the help you've provided to get me started with some proper pen making supplies. I pray that your kindness is returned upon you. If I lived closer to you I would come take care of your yard, do your dishes, or something.
> Ok, I said enough of that didn't I?
> So, I had to figure out what to order with the gift certificate. Sounds simple enough doesn't it? It is amazing though how many options there are in pen turning on the Penn State website.
> I wound up ordering a mandrel, which I will have to have in order to make these proper pens. I ordered extra bushings because everywhere I read for advice says you need to have extras on hand. They are cheap too, so that wasn't bad. Then, with bundle kits, I got a total of thirty eight pen kits. There isn't a huge variety in what I ordered. The idea though, in my opinion, is to get started. These will give me the practice and then I can move up from there on trying different styles to see what I like best.
> Again, thank you so much. I wish I could, but I can't think of anything else to say on that matter that I haven't already said. So on that note, I will end my rambling now for this entry.
> 
> Happy turnings everybody!


WOW!!!
You clearly have done something "above & beyond" and it is coming full circle!!! All I can say is good for you!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Move Along, Nothing To See Here*
> 
> I have to apologize. I have no new project or techinques or newly learned advice to share today. I just felt a need to post today about yesterday's non-progress.
> 
> First of all, I did not make much yesterday. I did make my kids some sort of spinning top things. I call them "some sort of" because they weren't great. They were just ideas I was working on as I went along. The kids liked them though. Before I could even think of whether I wished to snap a photo or not, they had broken one and spun the other one under a low lying heavy table where it may stay awhile before being retrieved. I may go back to this idea at a later day. I seen in the Penn State Catalogue where I can get ball bearing inserts for these and yo-yos. I think my kids would absolutely love those when I get to a point where I can afford to add that to an existing order.
> On that note, the tops. While I seen them as an idea that I was kicking around, my kids seen them as fascinating new toys. The reason I bring this up is my evergrowing concerns about today's youth. My kids are different than most these days. Yes they have video games, but I push them to work more than just their fingers on a game controller. They like simple toys, like jacks, marble, cards, and such. Watching them play with the spinning tops yesterday though reminded me that today's kids aren't much different than we were. Some of them just need to be introduced to simpler things earlier in life, while they are still young enough to enjoy them.
> What I did do yesterday was mostly search and play. First, the search. I knew I had it, I just had to find it. I've been doing mostly flat work for so long that the highest grit sandpaper I had on hand was 400 grit, and seldom went that high. Now that I've started turning though, I'm finding myself more and more needed finer paper. I had stashed some away a long time ago. As usual though, when I put something where I'll know where it's at, I have troubles finding it when I need to know where it's at. I found it, it is a box I had with a hoard of sandpaper I had bought a long time ago at a good deal. This is various grits all the way up to 2000 grit.
> So I played around for a long time yesterday with sanding up higher on the lathe than what I've been doing. Boy does it make a difference. If you carefully sand up through the grits, and it doesn't take long on a spinning lathe, you can get a sanded finish that looks almost like glass, and this is before you apply any type of finish. So now I can sand my turned projects to look better.
> 
> Some of you may remember my less than great opinion of the router bit tool I was recently given when I tried it on bowls. I told then that I would one day give it another go on spindle. Well, since I had messed up on one of the spinning top ideas yesterday, I took it as an opportunity to give that tool another try.
> First all, you can see or order the tool here if you'd like. I did not put that in the original review of this item because, as it was a gift to me, I did not know exactly where to get one. It turns out it came from my favorite turning supplier, Penn State.
> On spindles is where this tool shines. While I couldn't do anything with it on bowls, it felt like there was little that I could NOT do with it on spindle stock. It cuts easier, with no sharpening so far, and leaves a finish that is ready for only the finer grits of sandpaper. The only drawback, and an expected one, was with the router bit that came in the tool. It seems to be kind of dull from the factory. Once I decided to try a better quality bit in it, it cut like hot butter.
> My only gripe with this tool would be my percieved overall cost savings, which would be little to none. I learned the hard way long time ago not to mess with cheap router bits. The Freud bits that I buy locally run about thirty bucks a piece, so I only buy the ones I need. That being said, if I were to use one of these bits extensively in this lathe tool, I would worry about dulling one side more than the other, or messing with the balance of it. Therefore, if I was to use this tool much, I would lean towards buying bits just to be used in the lathe tool. At thirty bucks a piece, I can't see the cost savings over prices I've seen for dedicated lathe tools.
> So as usual, in my opinion, any tool that does many things, while it may do some well, usually does so with compromises. Even I sometimes decide to make those compromises if the cost savings are great enough to make it worth doing so. I still just don't see that here. On the other hand, if you have many extra router bits that are not being used, such as when buying whole sets, then this tool may be just the perfect tool for you to finally put those extra bits to use.
> 
> .
> 
> The next thing I want to talk about is kindness. A fellow Lumberjock has given me an emial gift certificate. I am not at liberty at the moment to tell who or how much. I will say though that it was generous, and an unexpected act of kindness that left me speechless.
> This person, although I'd seen and talked to (I think) a couple of times here on Lumberjocks, I really do not know on a personal level like I do some other jocks here. So to me, this person was pretty much a stranger. I've had friends do things for me before, and even those occassions kind of put me off guard. I'm just not the sort of man who's used to people doing things for me. I do for myself with whatever I may or may not have left over after providing for my family. That's just the way it's always been. So, when someone I hardly know does something like this person has it just floors me.
> Enough of that. I was speechless yesterday. Today I can go on and on about it. I just wish to say to this person, thank you from the bottom of my heart. It was extremely kind of you. I will be sending something your way as soon as I can as a token of my gratitude. Still though, it doesn't repay the help you've provided to get me started with some proper pen making supplies. I pray that your kindness is returned upon you. If I lived closer to you I would come take care of your yard, do your dishes, or something.
> Ok, I said enough of that didn't I?
> So, I had to figure out what to order with the gift certificate. Sounds simple enough doesn't it? It is amazing though how many options there are in pen turning on the Penn State website.
> I wound up ordering a mandrel, which I will have to have in order to make these proper pens. I ordered extra bushings because everywhere I read for advice says you need to have extras on hand. They are cheap too, so that wasn't bad. Then, with bundle kits, I got a total of thirty eight pen kits. There isn't a huge variety in what I ordered. The idea though, in my opinion, is to get started. These will give me the practice and then I can move up from there on trying different styles to see what I like best.
> Again, thank you so much. I wish I could, but I can't think of anything else to say on that matter that I haven't already said. So on that note, I will end my rambling now for this entry.
> 
> Happy turnings everybody!


Andy, I have to respectfully disagree as I have seen some young wood workers who are just as quick to jump to the aid of anyone they think they can help. 
I have been a mechanic most of my life. It used to amaze me that while I would help anyone I could, I seen so many other mechanics who acted like there was some kind of CODE that said we were never to tell anyone who was not a long time mechanic the SECRETS of mechanical mysteries. My view was that there was no secret or mystery, just a bunch of people who were scared that if they helped someone they would no longer be needed. From my own experience though, helping people did not make me obsolete. It only made people respect me enough to be faithful customers.

Lew, I seen that suggestion somewhere else and haven't tried it. I'll be honest. I haven't tried it because I have forgotten it while at the lathe. I need to make a mental note to do so. I'll bet if I get good results I'll remember it better.

Randy, I don't know that I've ever done anything "above and beyond". I'm just a little fish in a big pond trying to avoid a hook. I don't remember doing anything in my life besides what I thought I should do. Thanks for the vote of confidence though.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Move Along, Nothing To See Here*
> 
> I have to apologize. I have no new project or techinques or newly learned advice to share today. I just felt a need to post today about yesterday's non-progress.
> 
> First of all, I did not make much yesterday. I did make my kids some sort of spinning top things. I call them "some sort of" because they weren't great. They were just ideas I was working on as I went along. The kids liked them though. Before I could even think of whether I wished to snap a photo or not, they had broken one and spun the other one under a low lying heavy table where it may stay awhile before being retrieved. I may go back to this idea at a later day. I seen in the Penn State Catalogue where I can get ball bearing inserts for these and yo-yos. I think my kids would absolutely love those when I get to a point where I can afford to add that to an existing order.
> On that note, the tops. While I seen them as an idea that I was kicking around, my kids seen them as fascinating new toys. The reason I bring this up is my evergrowing concerns about today's youth. My kids are different than most these days. Yes they have video games, but I push them to work more than just their fingers on a game controller. They like simple toys, like jacks, marble, cards, and such. Watching them play with the spinning tops yesterday though reminded me that today's kids aren't much different than we were. Some of them just need to be introduced to simpler things earlier in life, while they are still young enough to enjoy them.
> What I did do yesterday was mostly search and play. First, the search. I knew I had it, I just had to find it. I've been doing mostly flat work for so long that the highest grit sandpaper I had on hand was 400 grit, and seldom went that high. Now that I've started turning though, I'm finding myself more and more needed finer paper. I had stashed some away a long time ago. As usual though, when I put something where I'll know where it's at, I have troubles finding it when I need to know where it's at. I found it, it is a box I had with a hoard of sandpaper I had bought a long time ago at a good deal. This is various grits all the way up to 2000 grit.
> So I played around for a long time yesterday with sanding up higher on the lathe than what I've been doing. Boy does it make a difference. If you carefully sand up through the grits, and it doesn't take long on a spinning lathe, you can get a sanded finish that looks almost like glass, and this is before you apply any type of finish. So now I can sand my turned projects to look better.
> 
> Some of you may remember my less than great opinion of the router bit tool I was recently given when I tried it on bowls. I told then that I would one day give it another go on spindle. Well, since I had messed up on one of the spinning top ideas yesterday, I took it as an opportunity to give that tool another try.
> First all, you can see or order the tool here if you'd like. I did not put that in the original review of this item because, as it was a gift to me, I did not know exactly where to get one. It turns out it came from my favorite turning supplier, Penn State.
> On spindles is where this tool shines. While I couldn't do anything with it on bowls, it felt like there was little that I could NOT do with it on spindle stock. It cuts easier, with no sharpening so far, and leaves a finish that is ready for only the finer grits of sandpaper. The only drawback, and an expected one, was with the router bit that came in the tool. It seems to be kind of dull from the factory. Once I decided to try a better quality bit in it, it cut like hot butter.
> My only gripe with this tool would be my percieved overall cost savings, which would be little to none. I learned the hard way long time ago not to mess with cheap router bits. The Freud bits that I buy locally run about thirty bucks a piece, so I only buy the ones I need. That being said, if I were to use one of these bits extensively in this lathe tool, I would worry about dulling one side more than the other, or messing with the balance of it. Therefore, if I was to use this tool much, I would lean towards buying bits just to be used in the lathe tool. At thirty bucks a piece, I can't see the cost savings over prices I've seen for dedicated lathe tools.
> So as usual, in my opinion, any tool that does many things, while it may do some well, usually does so with compromises. Even I sometimes decide to make those compromises if the cost savings are great enough to make it worth doing so. I still just don't see that here. On the other hand, if you have many extra router bits that are not being used, such as when buying whole sets, then this tool may be just the perfect tool for you to finally put those extra bits to use.
> 
> .
> 
> The next thing I want to talk about is kindness. A fellow Lumberjock has given me an emial gift certificate. I am not at liberty at the moment to tell who or how much. I will say though that it was generous, and an unexpected act of kindness that left me speechless.
> This person, although I'd seen and talked to (I think) a couple of times here on Lumberjocks, I really do not know on a personal level like I do some other jocks here. So to me, this person was pretty much a stranger. I've had friends do things for me before, and even those occassions kind of put me off guard. I'm just not the sort of man who's used to people doing things for me. I do for myself with whatever I may or may not have left over after providing for my family. That's just the way it's always been. So, when someone I hardly know does something like this person has it just floors me.
> Enough of that. I was speechless yesterday. Today I can go on and on about it. I just wish to say to this person, thank you from the bottom of my heart. It was extremely kind of you. I will be sending something your way as soon as I can as a token of my gratitude. Still though, it doesn't repay the help you've provided to get me started with some proper pen making supplies. I pray that your kindness is returned upon you. If I lived closer to you I would come take care of your yard, do your dishes, or something.
> Ok, I said enough of that didn't I?
> So, I had to figure out what to order with the gift certificate. Sounds simple enough doesn't it? It is amazing though how many options there are in pen turning on the Penn State website.
> I wound up ordering a mandrel, which I will have to have in order to make these proper pens. I ordered extra bushings because everywhere I read for advice says you need to have extras on hand. They are cheap too, so that wasn't bad. Then, with bundle kits, I got a total of thirty eight pen kits. There isn't a huge variety in what I ordered. The idea though, in my opinion, is to get started. These will give me the practice and then I can move up from there on trying different styles to see what I like best.
> Again, thank you so much. I wish I could, but I can't think of anything else to say on that matter that I haven't already said. So on that note, I will end my rambling now for this entry.
> 
> Happy turnings everybody!


William, Those great young woodworkers are really "old farts" at heart! I'm in a profession where "secrets" are considered unethical so sharing comes honestly to me.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Gluing Up Bowl Blanks, And Some More Of My Ramblings*









First thing today, I wanted to show the thread adapter and live center that someone sent to me. These come from Penn State Industries. The reason I wanted these was that the Ridgid lathe has #1 morse taper, while my larger lathe has #2. On the headstock spindle, the Ridgid has 3/4"x16 threads, while my larger lathe, and most of my accessories, have 1"x8 thread. Someone had these shipped to me. Whoever it was apparantly did not wish for me to know who, but I do thank you, whoever you are, very much. These will be a big help for me.








Now I am able to put my favorite drive center on the Ridgid. I'll be using this mostly for small spindle turning. So, I can now not have to constantly remove and replace my four jaw chuck on the larger lathe. The chuck will stay there pretty much full time. The reason I love this drive center is that it has the cone shape piece nearer the headstock. On the end of it, you can put any of six different drive centers on it. It has everything one could possiblyl wish for to do almost any project of any size.








One of my older sons visited yesterday and asked if I needed any help in the shop. I really didn't, but since he seems to like helping me, I needed something to do. To be honest, I think he just like spending time with his old Dad, but is scared he may not seem as "manly" just to say that. So he always comes saying he's only there to help the old man. 
Anyway, I decided to use the time for something easy so we could visit more than work, and removed the old bent shaft lathe from it's former home. Some of you may remember I had turned this into a buffing station. It was a good idea, but I found it just got in my way a lot. I have found it easier to chuck a buffing pad into my cordless drill and simply buff pieces while they are still on the lathe. That made this unneeded, and I was constantly having to reach over it for other accessories. So, since the spindle shaft was bent on it, and inferior quality made it not worth trying to fix, we disassembled it, saved any usable part, like motor and tool rests and such, and put the rest of the part in my scrap pile where it may be useful for some future adventure.

.

Ok, since few people are interested in all that, onto something a little more project related.

This is either going to turn out real nice, or a complete waste of time. Either way, I'm sure I'll learn something. I set out today to make a bowl press. I want the ability to glue up boards for bowls, and also hope to one day try some segmented turning. I started considering my options though. Here are thoughts I've had on a bowl press.
1. A two by four frame using all thread and a shop made knob to press a secondary board straight down in the center. I've seen these that others have built and they seem to work well for them.
2. The same idea, but using a bottle jack. It seems a little more crude, but I have a good three ton bottle jack that I bought for a one time emergency and would love to find a use for. The jack would definately apply enough pressure. I may even have to be careful no to over pump the handle, and destroy my frame.
3. Simply use the bottle jack idea, but clear a spot on one of the shelves under a table and work it the same way. This would prevent me from having to build a frame, and find a spot to store it.
4. I've got a very large, very heavy duty, very unneeded C-clamp. I mean this things is huge. I got it in a bulk deal at a yard sale in a huge box of C-clamps. I thought, since I've never been able to imagine a use for such a large clamp, to grind off the end with the threaded part you tighten, and use this for a bowl press.








While drinking my coffee and considering all this, I had a final thought.
I've never glued up material for a bowl and don't even know how well I'm going to be at this. It is after all a new learning experience for me. So how about I glue up a couple and see how it goes before I jump too deeply head first into this. So, since I do have a very large assortment of pipe and bar clamps, I decided I could very well glue up some bowl blanks using those.
All went well except for one thing. I was trying to be generous with the glue without putting too much. Yes, I know from experience, there is a such thing as too much glue. Anyway, I did what I thought was best based on my past experiences, but I have never had the experience of gluing up seven layers as I did on one blank, and it got messy before I had a chance to do much besides get happy about working with glooey fingers. 








Here is the one I was talking about. It is seven layers of three quarter inch thick pecan. I could possibly have gotten it done with a little less mess, but I was trying to work quickly. I didn't want glue setting up before I got it clamped. I considered afterwards that it may have been better to work with one layer at a time. It would have given me time to be more careful. It'll all be turned down on the lathe though, so it doesn't matter. 
I understand I could have done this several different ways. Since I'm new to this technique though, I decided to use a compass, draw circles, cut them on a band saw, and glue up simple, solid block. This will of course cause more waste than necessary from the hollowing, but I could use the practice anyway.
This particular bowl, if successful, will be going to Doe. 








This one was easier because I started with thicker material, and was only three layers. This one is sycamore.
This bowl, if successful, will be going to Grizzman.

That's all I have for today. I wanted to do more today, but something else got me distracted. It was such a beautiful day, and I felt so good, that I done some spring cleaning. I cleaned up my shop. It needed it bad. I have been too lazy about sweeping sawdust and shavings into piles and leaving them lately. I try to keep a clean shop, but sometimes that sort of stuff just piles up until I've allowed it to get worse than I realize. I think it happens to the best of us. 
I wound up getting these blanks glued up kind of late today. The glue, Titebond, has a label with instruction (yes, I read those from time to time) that says to let glue cure for twenty four hours. So, to be on the safe side, I think I'm going to leave them clamped until Monday. Then we'll get to see if this turns out good, or a total failure. There aint but one way to find out!


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Gluing Up Bowl Blanks, And Some More Of My Ramblings*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing today, I wanted to show the thread adapter and live center that someone sent to me. These come from Penn State Industries. The reason I wanted these was that the Ridgid lathe has #1 morse taper, while my larger lathe has #2. On the headstock spindle, the Ridgid has 3/4"x16 threads, while my larger lathe, and most of my accessories, have 1"x8 thread. Someone had these shipped to me. Whoever it was apparantly did not wish for me to know who, but I do thank you, whoever you are, very much. These will be a big help for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am able to put my favorite drive center on the Ridgid. I'll be using this mostly for small spindle turning. So, I can now not have to constantly remove and replace my four jaw chuck on the larger lathe. The chuck will stay there pretty much full time. The reason I love this drive center is that it has the cone shape piece nearer the headstock. On the end of it, you can put any of six different drive centers on it. It has everything one could possiblyl wish for to do almost any project of any size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons visited yesterday and asked if I needed any help in the shop. I really didn't, but since he seems to like helping me, I needed something to do. To be honest, I think he just like spending time with his old Dad, but is scared he may not seem as "manly" just to say that. So he always comes saying he's only there to help the old man.
> Anyway, I decided to use the time for something easy so we could visit more than work, and removed the old bent shaft lathe from it's former home. Some of you may remember I had turned this into a buffing station. It was a good idea, but I found it just got in my way a lot. I have found it easier to chuck a buffing pad into my cordless drill and simply buff pieces while they are still on the lathe. That made this unneeded, and I was constantly having to reach over it for other accessories. So, since the spindle shaft was bent on it, and inferior quality made it not worth trying to fix, we disassembled it, saved any usable part, like motor and tool rests and such, and put the rest of the part in my scrap pile where it may be useful for some future adventure.
> 
> .
> 
> Ok, since few people are interested in all that, onto something a little more project related.
> 
> This is either going to turn out real nice, or a complete waste of time. Either way, I'm sure I'll learn something. I set out today to make a bowl press. I want the ability to glue up boards for bowls, and also hope to one day try some segmented turning. I started considering my options though. Here are thoughts I've had on a bowl press.
> 1. A two by four frame using all thread and a shop made knob to press a secondary board straight down in the center. I've seen these that others have built and they seem to work well for them.
> 2. The same idea, but using a bottle jack. It seems a little more crude, but I have a good three ton bottle jack that I bought for a one time emergency and would love to find a use for. The jack would definately apply enough pressure. I may even have to be careful no to over pump the handle, and destroy my frame.
> 3. Simply use the bottle jack idea, but clear a spot on one of the shelves under a table and work it the same way. This would prevent me from having to build a frame, and find a spot to store it.
> 4. I've got a very large, very heavy duty, very unneeded C-clamp. I mean this things is huge. I got it in a bulk deal at a yard sale in a huge box of C-clamps. I thought, since I've never been able to imagine a use for such a large clamp, to grind off the end with the threaded part you tighten, and use this for a bowl press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While drinking my coffee and considering all this, I had a final thought.
> I've never glued up material for a bowl and don't even know how well I'm going to be at this. It is after all a new learning experience for me. So how about I glue up a couple and see how it goes before I jump too deeply head first into this. So, since I do have a very large assortment of pipe and bar clamps, I decided I could very well glue up some bowl blanks using those.
> All went well except for one thing. I was trying to be generous with the glue without putting too much. Yes, I know from experience, there is a such thing as too much glue. Anyway, I did what I thought was best based on my past experiences, but I have never had the experience of gluing up seven layers as I did on one blank, and it got messy before I had a chance to do much besides get happy about working with glooey fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the one I was talking about. It is seven layers of three quarter inch thick pecan. I could possibly have gotten it done with a little less mess, but I was trying to work quickly. I didn't want glue setting up before I got it clamped. I considered afterwards that it may have been better to work with one layer at a time. It would have given me time to be more careful. It'll all be turned down on the lathe though, so it doesn't matter.
> I understand I could have done this several different ways. Since I'm new to this technique though, I decided to use a compass, draw circles, cut them on a band saw, and glue up simple, solid block. This will of course cause more waste than necessary from the hollowing, but I could use the practice anyway.
> This particular bowl, if successful, will be going to Doe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was easier because I started with thicker material, and was only three layers. This one is sycamore.
> This bowl, if successful, will be going to Grizzman.
> 
> That's all I have for today. I wanted to do more today, but something else got me distracted. It was such a beautiful day, and I felt so good, that I done some spring cleaning. I cleaned up my shop. It needed it bad. I have been too lazy about sweeping sawdust and shavings into piles and leaving them lately. I try to keep a clean shop, but sometimes that sort of stuff just piles up until I've allowed it to get worse than I realize. I think it happens to the best of us.
> I wound up getting these blanks glued up kind of late today. The glue, Titebond, has a label with instruction (yes, I read those from time to time) that says to let glue cure for twenty four hours. So, to be on the safe side, I think I'm going to leave them clamped until Monday. Then we'll get to see if this turns out good, or a total failure. There aint but one way to find out!


William,
Don't take this personally but….
I keep falling asleep as I read this!
I would say that it has to do with a lack of sleep and not your ramblings!!!
I enjoy your discourse and musings!!!

Yep, I clean up the shop by sweeping everything into piles, until the end of the project (or is that twelve projects)!!!

I can see how those glue ups could get a tad messy!!!
I too would wait an extra day for the glue to cure. Well, until I gain more experience at least!!! Looking forward to seeing these blanks become a "William Original Art Piece"!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Gluing Up Bowl Blanks, And Some More Of My Ramblings*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing today, I wanted to show the thread adapter and live center that someone sent to me. These come from Penn State Industries. The reason I wanted these was that the Ridgid lathe has #1 morse taper, while my larger lathe has #2. On the headstock spindle, the Ridgid has 3/4"x16 threads, while my larger lathe, and most of my accessories, have 1"x8 thread. Someone had these shipped to me. Whoever it was apparantly did not wish for me to know who, but I do thank you, whoever you are, very much. These will be a big help for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am able to put my favorite drive center on the Ridgid. I'll be using this mostly for small spindle turning. So, I can now not have to constantly remove and replace my four jaw chuck on the larger lathe. The chuck will stay there pretty much full time. The reason I love this drive center is that it has the cone shape piece nearer the headstock. On the end of it, you can put any of six different drive centers on it. It has everything one could possiblyl wish for to do almost any project of any size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons visited yesterday and asked if I needed any help in the shop. I really didn't, but since he seems to like helping me, I needed something to do. To be honest, I think he just like spending time with his old Dad, but is scared he may not seem as "manly" just to say that. So he always comes saying he's only there to help the old man.
> Anyway, I decided to use the time for something easy so we could visit more than work, and removed the old bent shaft lathe from it's former home. Some of you may remember I had turned this into a buffing station. It was a good idea, but I found it just got in my way a lot. I have found it easier to chuck a buffing pad into my cordless drill and simply buff pieces while they are still on the lathe. That made this unneeded, and I was constantly having to reach over it for other accessories. So, since the spindle shaft was bent on it, and inferior quality made it not worth trying to fix, we disassembled it, saved any usable part, like motor and tool rests and such, and put the rest of the part in my scrap pile where it may be useful for some future adventure.
> 
> .
> 
> Ok, since few people are interested in all that, onto something a little more project related.
> 
> This is either going to turn out real nice, or a complete waste of time. Either way, I'm sure I'll learn something. I set out today to make a bowl press. I want the ability to glue up boards for bowls, and also hope to one day try some segmented turning. I started considering my options though. Here are thoughts I've had on a bowl press.
> 1. A two by four frame using all thread and a shop made knob to press a secondary board straight down in the center. I've seen these that others have built and they seem to work well for them.
> 2. The same idea, but using a bottle jack. It seems a little more crude, but I have a good three ton bottle jack that I bought for a one time emergency and would love to find a use for. The jack would definately apply enough pressure. I may even have to be careful no to over pump the handle, and destroy my frame.
> 3. Simply use the bottle jack idea, but clear a spot on one of the shelves under a table and work it the same way. This would prevent me from having to build a frame, and find a spot to store it.
> 4. I've got a very large, very heavy duty, very unneeded C-clamp. I mean this things is huge. I got it in a bulk deal at a yard sale in a huge box of C-clamps. I thought, since I've never been able to imagine a use for such a large clamp, to grind off the end with the threaded part you tighten, and use this for a bowl press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While drinking my coffee and considering all this, I had a final thought.
> I've never glued up material for a bowl and don't even know how well I'm going to be at this. It is after all a new learning experience for me. So how about I glue up a couple and see how it goes before I jump too deeply head first into this. So, since I do have a very large assortment of pipe and bar clamps, I decided I could very well glue up some bowl blanks using those.
> All went well except for one thing. I was trying to be generous with the glue without putting too much. Yes, I know from experience, there is a such thing as too much glue. Anyway, I did what I thought was best based on my past experiences, but I have never had the experience of gluing up seven layers as I did on one blank, and it got messy before I had a chance to do much besides get happy about working with glooey fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the one I was talking about. It is seven layers of three quarter inch thick pecan. I could possibly have gotten it done with a little less mess, but I was trying to work quickly. I didn't want glue setting up before I got it clamped. I considered afterwards that it may have been better to work with one layer at a time. It would have given me time to be more careful. It'll all be turned down on the lathe though, so it doesn't matter.
> I understand I could have done this several different ways. Since I'm new to this technique though, I decided to use a compass, draw circles, cut them on a band saw, and glue up simple, solid block. This will of course cause more waste than necessary from the hollowing, but I could use the practice anyway.
> This particular bowl, if successful, will be going to Doe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was easier because I started with thicker material, and was only three layers. This one is sycamore.
> This bowl, if successful, will be going to Grizzman.
> 
> That's all I have for today. I wanted to do more today, but something else got me distracted. It was such a beautiful day, and I felt so good, that I done some spring cleaning. I cleaned up my shop. It needed it bad. I have been too lazy about sweeping sawdust and shavings into piles and leaving them lately. I try to keep a clean shop, but sometimes that sort of stuff just piles up until I've allowed it to get worse than I realize. I think it happens to the best of us.
> I wound up getting these blanks glued up kind of late today. The glue, Titebond, has a label with instruction (yes, I read those from time to time) that says to let glue cure for twenty four hours. So, to be on the safe side, I think I'm going to leave them clamped until Monday. Then we'll get to see if this turns out good, or a total failure. There aint but one way to find out!


Thanks for reading Randy.
I tried to add pictures so you could understand it.
Marty told me you couldn't read without pictures.

I hope you'll get to see these as finished bowls too.
We may see a blown up bowl instead, 
But let's hope that doesn't happen.

Have you got your lathe set up yet?
I can't wait to see you get started.
I think you're gonna enjoy turning as much as I do.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Gluing Up Bowl Blanks, And Some More Of My Ramblings*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing today, I wanted to show the thread adapter and live center that someone sent to me. These come from Penn State Industries. The reason I wanted these was that the Ridgid lathe has #1 morse taper, while my larger lathe has #2. On the headstock spindle, the Ridgid has 3/4"x16 threads, while my larger lathe, and most of my accessories, have 1"x8 thread. Someone had these shipped to me. Whoever it was apparantly did not wish for me to know who, but I do thank you, whoever you are, very much. These will be a big help for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am able to put my favorite drive center on the Ridgid. I'll be using this mostly for small spindle turning. So, I can now not have to constantly remove and replace my four jaw chuck on the larger lathe. The chuck will stay there pretty much full time. The reason I love this drive center is that it has the cone shape piece nearer the headstock. On the end of it, you can put any of six different drive centers on it. It has everything one could possiblyl wish for to do almost any project of any size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons visited yesterday and asked if I needed any help in the shop. I really didn't, but since he seems to like helping me, I needed something to do. To be honest, I think he just like spending time with his old Dad, but is scared he may not seem as "manly" just to say that. So he always comes saying he's only there to help the old man.
> Anyway, I decided to use the time for something easy so we could visit more than work, and removed the old bent shaft lathe from it's former home. Some of you may remember I had turned this into a buffing station. It was a good idea, but I found it just got in my way a lot. I have found it easier to chuck a buffing pad into my cordless drill and simply buff pieces while they are still on the lathe. That made this unneeded, and I was constantly having to reach over it for other accessories. So, since the spindle shaft was bent on it, and inferior quality made it not worth trying to fix, we disassembled it, saved any usable part, like motor and tool rests and such, and put the rest of the part in my scrap pile where it may be useful for some future adventure.
> 
> .
> 
> Ok, since few people are interested in all that, onto something a little more project related.
> 
> This is either going to turn out real nice, or a complete waste of time. Either way, I'm sure I'll learn something. I set out today to make a bowl press. I want the ability to glue up boards for bowls, and also hope to one day try some segmented turning. I started considering my options though. Here are thoughts I've had on a bowl press.
> 1. A two by four frame using all thread and a shop made knob to press a secondary board straight down in the center. I've seen these that others have built and they seem to work well for them.
> 2. The same idea, but using a bottle jack. It seems a little more crude, but I have a good three ton bottle jack that I bought for a one time emergency and would love to find a use for. The jack would definately apply enough pressure. I may even have to be careful no to over pump the handle, and destroy my frame.
> 3. Simply use the bottle jack idea, but clear a spot on one of the shelves under a table and work it the same way. This would prevent me from having to build a frame, and find a spot to store it.
> 4. I've got a very large, very heavy duty, very unneeded C-clamp. I mean this things is huge. I got it in a bulk deal at a yard sale in a huge box of C-clamps. I thought, since I've never been able to imagine a use for such a large clamp, to grind off the end with the threaded part you tighten, and use this for a bowl press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While drinking my coffee and considering all this, I had a final thought.
> I've never glued up material for a bowl and don't even know how well I'm going to be at this. It is after all a new learning experience for me. So how about I glue up a couple and see how it goes before I jump too deeply head first into this. So, since I do have a very large assortment of pipe and bar clamps, I decided I could very well glue up some bowl blanks using those.
> All went well except for one thing. I was trying to be generous with the glue without putting too much. Yes, I know from experience, there is a such thing as too much glue. Anyway, I did what I thought was best based on my past experiences, but I have never had the experience of gluing up seven layers as I did on one blank, and it got messy before I had a chance to do much besides get happy about working with glooey fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the one I was talking about. It is seven layers of three quarter inch thick pecan. I could possibly have gotten it done with a little less mess, but I was trying to work quickly. I didn't want glue setting up before I got it clamped. I considered afterwards that it may have been better to work with one layer at a time. It would have given me time to be more careful. It'll all be turned down on the lathe though, so it doesn't matter.
> I understand I could have done this several different ways. Since I'm new to this technique though, I decided to use a compass, draw circles, cut them on a band saw, and glue up simple, solid block. This will of course cause more waste than necessary from the hollowing, but I could use the practice anyway.
> This particular bowl, if successful, will be going to Doe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was easier because I started with thicker material, and was only three layers. This one is sycamore.
> This bowl, if successful, will be going to Grizzman.
> 
> That's all I have for today. I wanted to do more today, but something else got me distracted. It was such a beautiful day, and I felt so good, that I done some spring cleaning. I cleaned up my shop. It needed it bad. I have been too lazy about sweeping sawdust and shavings into piles and leaving them lately. I try to keep a clean shop, but sometimes that sort of stuff just piles up until I've allowed it to get worse than I realize. I think it happens to the best of us.
> I wound up getting these blanks glued up kind of late today. The glue, Titebond, has a label with instruction (yes, I read those from time to time) that says to let glue cure for twenty four hours. So, to be on the safe side, I think I'm going to leave them clamped until Monday. Then we'll get to see if this turns out good, or a total failure. There aint but one way to find out!


William, I have quit using all kinds of glue except Titebond III which is waterproof. Titebond I & II have given me failures with them holding. A little suggestion, when gluing up stacks, it is a good idea to skew each layer slightly so the grains are not parallel and that will make the wood stronger and less likely to warp later. You do not need a super amount of pressure to clamp the wood. You could squeeze too much glue out by having too much pressure and cause the glue to fail. You seem to be learning in leaps and bounds which is good. The more you turn the more you learn. It took me about a year before I was confident enough with the lathe. In the beginning I was making one bowl/vase every 2-3 days and after 3 1/2 years am down to about half a day or less depending on the size and type of wood. I have turned an 8" salad bowl from a log to finished bowl in 2 hours recently. It takes experience to be able to do that. Good luck.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Gluing Up Bowl Blanks, And Some More Of My Ramblings*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing today, I wanted to show the thread adapter and live center that someone sent to me. These come from Penn State Industries. The reason I wanted these was that the Ridgid lathe has #1 morse taper, while my larger lathe has #2. On the headstock spindle, the Ridgid has 3/4"x16 threads, while my larger lathe, and most of my accessories, have 1"x8 thread. Someone had these shipped to me. Whoever it was apparantly did not wish for me to know who, but I do thank you, whoever you are, very much. These will be a big help for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am able to put my favorite drive center on the Ridgid. I'll be using this mostly for small spindle turning. So, I can now not have to constantly remove and replace my four jaw chuck on the larger lathe. The chuck will stay there pretty much full time. The reason I love this drive center is that it has the cone shape piece nearer the headstock. On the end of it, you can put any of six different drive centers on it. It has everything one could possiblyl wish for to do almost any project of any size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my older sons visited yesterday and asked if I needed any help in the shop. I really didn't, but since he seems to like helping me, I needed something to do. To be honest, I think he just like spending time with his old Dad, but is scared he may not seem as "manly" just to say that. So he always comes saying he's only there to help the old man.
> Anyway, I decided to use the time for something easy so we could visit more than work, and removed the old bent shaft lathe from it's former home. Some of you may remember I had turned this into a buffing station. It was a good idea, but I found it just got in my way a lot. I have found it easier to chuck a buffing pad into my cordless drill and simply buff pieces while they are still on the lathe. That made this unneeded, and I was constantly having to reach over it for other accessories. So, since the spindle shaft was bent on it, and inferior quality made it not worth trying to fix, we disassembled it, saved any usable part, like motor and tool rests and such, and put the rest of the part in my scrap pile where it may be useful for some future adventure.
> 
> .
> 
> Ok, since few people are interested in all that, onto something a little more project related.
> 
> This is either going to turn out real nice, or a complete waste of time. Either way, I'm sure I'll learn something. I set out today to make a bowl press. I want the ability to glue up boards for bowls, and also hope to one day try some segmented turning. I started considering my options though. Here are thoughts I've had on a bowl press.
> 1. A two by four frame using all thread and a shop made knob to press a secondary board straight down in the center. I've seen these that others have built and they seem to work well for them.
> 2. The same idea, but using a bottle jack. It seems a little more crude, but I have a good three ton bottle jack that I bought for a one time emergency and would love to find a use for. The jack would definately apply enough pressure. I may even have to be careful no to over pump the handle, and destroy my frame.
> 3. Simply use the bottle jack idea, but clear a spot on one of the shelves under a table and work it the same way. This would prevent me from having to build a frame, and find a spot to store it.
> 4. I've got a very large, very heavy duty, very unneeded C-clamp. I mean this things is huge. I got it in a bulk deal at a yard sale in a huge box of C-clamps. I thought, since I've never been able to imagine a use for such a large clamp, to grind off the end with the threaded part you tighten, and use this for a bowl press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While drinking my coffee and considering all this, I had a final thought.
> I've never glued up material for a bowl and don't even know how well I'm going to be at this. It is after all a new learning experience for me. So how about I glue up a couple and see how it goes before I jump too deeply head first into this. So, since I do have a very large assortment of pipe and bar clamps, I decided I could very well glue up some bowl blanks using those.
> All went well except for one thing. I was trying to be generous with the glue without putting too much. Yes, I know from experience, there is a such thing as too much glue. Anyway, I did what I thought was best based on my past experiences, but I have never had the experience of gluing up seven layers as I did on one blank, and it got messy before I had a chance to do much besides get happy about working with glooey fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the one I was talking about. It is seven layers of three quarter inch thick pecan. I could possibly have gotten it done with a little less mess, but I was trying to work quickly. I didn't want glue setting up before I got it clamped. I considered afterwards that it may have been better to work with one layer at a time. It would have given me time to be more careful. It'll all be turned down on the lathe though, so it doesn't matter.
> I understand I could have done this several different ways. Since I'm new to this technique though, I decided to use a compass, draw circles, cut them on a band saw, and glue up simple, solid block. This will of course cause more waste than necessary from the hollowing, but I could use the practice anyway.
> This particular bowl, if successful, will be going to Doe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was easier because I started with thicker material, and was only three layers. This one is sycamore.
> This bowl, if successful, will be going to Grizzman.
> 
> That's all I have for today. I wanted to do more today, but something else got me distracted. It was such a beautiful day, and I felt so good, that I done some spring cleaning. I cleaned up my shop. It needed it bad. I have been too lazy about sweeping sawdust and shavings into piles and leaving them lately. I try to keep a clean shop, but sometimes that sort of stuff just piles up until I've allowed it to get worse than I realize. I think it happens to the best of us.
> I wound up getting these blanks glued up kind of late today. The glue, Titebond, has a label with instruction (yes, I read those from time to time) that says to let glue cure for twenty four hours. So, to be on the safe side, I think I'm going to leave them clamped until Monday. Then we'll get to see if this turns out good, or a total failure. There aint but one way to find out!


Thanks for the info Bearpie. If these fail, I think you just told me why. I put the grain as parrellel as I could. I thought it made more sense bacause of wood movement. Now I know to turn each layer just a tad next time. 
I am using Titebond II. I've never used Titebond III. I may have to give it a try. I really like Gorilla Wood Glue, which is what I use more than any other kind of wood glue. I chose the Titebond on this because I had read where a lot of people are using it.
I have the same problem I think a lot of people have. I have about eight different kinds of glue, but sometimes am not sure which one to use when learning something new. I learn from experience. 
Several people have told me I'm learning fast. I always find it funny because I usually feel I'm falling behind. I have always been a quick learner on anything I do though. Wood is different. With everything I've ever done, like mechanic work for example, the conditions were always more of a constant. With wood, the conditions always change, and anytime you think you know exactly what will happen, you'll get a surprise.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*The First Glueup Results*

Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.

Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
What I want to talk about now is safety.
I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well. 
I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.








I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.

Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing. 








I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.

Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps. 








Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.








This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.








He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper. 
This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.








The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
















The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least. 
















So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am. 
Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


Looking real nice. Ready for Griz's morning breakfast.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


First off, thanks for the safety tip!!! Safety should be foremost in our minds, whenever we are in the shop. I can understand how a rag is a "BIG NO-NO" at the lathe. I've read of and seen pictures of a few rather nasty lathe mishaps (two, with death resulting). Although they were metal lathes, similar results could happen to a wood turner. So again, thanks for the safety tip!!!

Grizz is gonna like emptying that bowl & filling his stomach, utilizing your "FIRST"!!!
Congrats on doing a good turn!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


Thanks guys.

Dave, you recon it's big enough? I do have a 12" swing lathe. You think Grizz needs a bigger bowl?

Randy, I forgot to tell you. I know you're not married, but just in case. I also remove my wedding band at the lathe. No rings or anything else that can catch.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


great looking bowl William .Grizz is going to have to make a big bowl of that choc let oatmeal  you are getting better and better at this turning


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


Does that mean I should remove my nipple & other "assorted" rings???


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


That bowl looks good! In picture 4 I see the tool rest flat across the bowl. Is that the way you have it to turn way deep inside? If you did it that way, it is quite unsafe. You did right by leaving the stem on for support while hollowing most of the wood out but when you said you knocked it off, I shuddered! I used to do this till one day it broke off wrong and the bowl was firewood. I would ask you not to do that anymore but rather turn it thin, then back the spindle off and turn the stub down instead of breaking it. It will save you grief later. Now back to the tool rest, it is much safer to turn the tool rest inside the bowl thus reducing the overhang of the tool and making it less likely to catch. Just be sure to spin the bowl before turning the lathe on to be sure there are no interferences.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


Great looking bowl William! I hope Grizz doesn't feel that he has to fill it completely up every time he uses it!

I also like to lay my tools under the ways while working, but I have enclosed my lathe stand with plywood and a shelf inside. I put about 300 lbs. of sand bags onto that internal shelf before covering the front. I use the top to rest my tools on. The weight from the sandbags reduces vibration and keeps the whole thing steady.

!


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


Ice cream, ice cream, ice cream


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


Eddie, thank you.

Bearpie, no I don't go all the way to the bottom with the tool rest like you see in in that photo. In that photo, I was cleaning around the face and edges. I don't remember why, but I had to do a tad more work there. Actually, I have two different sizes of those curves tool rests now. When it gets beyond about an inch or so deep, I switch to those for working inside the bowl. 
As for knocking the plug off, I have already made the mistake of ruining one bowl like that. I apologize if I didn't explain that better. About a half inch from the bottom, I'll use a small gouge and trim away enough material that the plug is only about an eight of an inch thick before snapping it off. I do this when the bottom is still about an inch thick. I break the plug off simply by take two fingers and putting slight sidewards pressure on it. If it doesn't break easily, I take away even more material with the gouge until it will either break, or it falls away. Then I clean it up. 
Thank you for pointing out these two things though. Even though I did happen to know about these, it may help others whoe are still learning as well. As you know, if it is not made clear, some of these mistakes can be learned the hard way, but that's sometimes dangerous.

Stefang, thank you for your input. I always appreciate it. In the picture of your lathe, I don't think I've ever seen one exactly like it. It looks like a beast. Where could I read more about that particular lathe?
I'm glad I am not the only one who rests their tools in that way. I don't know that it is a safety hazard exactly. It just may not be the best way. I thought about building a small version of the tool stands I have on my accessorie table over the lathes, just to put tools in when I'm turning. It becomes too much of a hassle going back to the regular stands. They each have twelve to sixteen tools in them and I may only be using two or three for the project at hand. I like to have what I need easily accessible without having to stop and look closely at what I'm reaching for.

Roger, I think Grizz did mention Ice Cream once. He could use it for that too.
Thank you for commenting.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


You've come a long ways my friend…....the bowl looks great…...and the safety lesson is key…..I too will now remember….thanks.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


Thanks Jeff. 
Don't worry about the strange looks you'll get from wife or family. Take some toilet paper from the house. It could save you from an accident.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


holy cow william ive missed all the fun here. we have company for a week and im way behind on my emails, sunday morn came, and i see the PM , i go and see ive been instructed to check out this blog, and first i am sure glad you didnt loose a finger, and i know your darn right smart enough to know better with the rags, and you didnt loose the finger, and man oh man you turned a beautiful bowl, im really happy and proud of you william, you stayed at it and now have success in front of you, and im honored to be the recipient of this fantastic bowl….it makes me thing i should start a list of what and when will go into this bowl….wow, its a beauty…thank you william so much…this will become the new display on my kitchen shelf…...


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


I'm glad you like it Grizz.
I should be able to send it soon after the first part of the month.
It will fit in one of those "if it fits it ships" boxes.
That's another good thing I thought about with turning.
I've had requests to ship my scroll work many time.
The size and shape usually make it cost prohibitive for the nicer pieces.
With turning though, if it won't fit in a cheaply shipped box, just turn it smaller.

By the way, I cleaned up that rough patch I mentioned today.
I think I found the secret to that.
I had to hand sand, 
In the opposite direction of what the lathe turns.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


William, It looks like there are LOTS of ways for a lathe to hurt ya! I wouldn't have thought of the rag thing until too late. That sycamore bowl is really nice and I know Grizz will treasure it.


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


Glad the burnishing idea worked out for you!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


I'm learning more and more each day Andy. One of the things I am learning is, when I watch videos and they have these helpful suggestions like don't use a rag, they usually have a good reason for it.
Another one I would like to add.
I have been wraping wire around my fingers to burn lines in my work. Then I seen on a video a guy talking about a piece of wood cracking, grabbing the wire, and snatching a guy's fingers so hard that the wire cut into him. So you can bet I went to the shop today and made some wooden handles to hold that wire from now on. I figured it was best before I learned that one the hard way as well.

Lew, thank you for that suggestion. Like I said, I'd heard it before. You happened to make it though when I really had finishing techniques on the old brain and I gave it a shot. It does work good. 
I'm always glad to hear new suggestions. Sometimes I just have to get them at the right time to try them. Maybe I need to write some of this stuff down sometime.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


"Wrapping wire around my fingers" That's the scariest thing I've heard in a long time!!! When I walk up to my tools I always consider: "what could go wrong?" I imagine that wire could amputate a finger in a nanosecond! "Lets be careful out there" Please!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The First Glueup Results*
> 
> Today has been a long day. As a matter fact, I can't even believe I made it to the shop today. I couldn't help myself, and will probably be paying for it in the morning, but those blanks I glued up yesterday were on my mind and driving me nuts.
> First of all, my wife has been working some crazy hours because her company was short handed. They finally hired someone though. She was able to come home early today. It's been so crazy lately that I've almost felt like a single parent to my boys. We took off for a day away this morning and spent over half a day just enjoying ourselves. You can read about that here if you'd like. It felt so great having my wife home today. As long as the new employee works out alright, Lisa will start having weekends off again. That is the best news I've had in a while. I have missed my wife lately.
> 
> Anyway, that covers the fist part of the day. After I came home and laid down a while, it is the second part of the day that may be of more interest here.
> What I want to talk about now is safety.
> I have had a habit, even though I've been warned against it, of using rags to dust off and apply finish on my lathe. I knew it was wrong but I kept neglecting to restock paper towels at my shop. I've read toilet paper was good too, but I kept neglecting bringing that to try as well.
> I'm sure some of you experienced turners already know where this is headed. This is for you beginners like me. Don't be stupid. It is a wonder I did not lose a finger today when a rough piece of wood grabbed the rag, twirled it around my finger, and snatched it. Luckily, my finger snatched out of the rag just in time before it was pulled around the underside of the spinning stock. All I got was a scare, but it could have been much worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shut down the lathe and fixed this up before doing anything else. From now on, it is a rule written in stone. NO RAGS ARE TO BE ANYWHERE NEAR MY LATHE. I suggest all turners agree to the same rule. I was lucky today. This no rag rule suggestion, I've seen it in more than one place today for a reason. To win this game, you still need to be able to count to ten without removeing your shoes.
> 
> Now, I started thinking of other potential safety violations I may be committing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have developed another habit already that I'm not sure is a good idea. When I'm working on the larger lathe, I have started sticking the tools I'm using under the bed tube of the Ridgid lathe. This has not been a problem so far, but I'm wondering if it is a good idea. It keeps my tools close, but still out of the way, without me having to stick each one back in it's tool holder each time. How do other turners keep tools close at hand while working on a project? I'm open to suggestions on this one.
> 
> Anyway, back to the bowl blank. I started with the sycamore blank. I done it for no particular reason besides it was just the nearest to me when I stepped up to the table where the two blanks were sitting in their clamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone says I'm growing as a turner in leaps and bounds. However, I am still a newbie. I mustn't forget that. I still am not confident enough to start out with solid blanks of this size just swinging out there for support. So I always remember an important lesson I learned a while back. The tail stock is my friend. I keep the tailstock helping to support my work as long as I can. This allows me to take away most of the weight before I have to remove that extra support. I think of it as training wheels. I see plenty of turners online go straight to open work at the end. I'm not quite ready to do that yet. While I'm getting better and seldom have a catch, they do happen to me from time to time. I learned the hard way I don't like flying bowls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is immediately after removing the piece sticking out of the middle that the tailstock was holding. I simply turn it down real thin near the bottom of the bowl. Then I break it off. I turn it thin enough that it breaks very easily across the grain. Then I just take my gouge and start cleaning things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was not the first, but a couple of days ago, Lew told me about burnishing my work with shavings from the turning. I tried that today. I'm glad I did. It really did a good job of polishing things up after moving through to my finest grit of sandpaper.
> This wood is sycamore. There is a tiny spot at each side of the bowl that it seems no matter how much I sand, it is just a tad rougher than I would like. I worked with it as much as I had time for today. I may go back later and work on it some more somehow. It will be at least next month before I can ship this out to it's destination in Alabama, so I have time to think and consider that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this particular bowl, I hope he can use it for his chili, salsa, oatmeal, and corn flakes. Don't worry if any of you don't get the joke. I know he does.
> Anyway, I am still learning about finishes for this sort of thing. I was looking in Home Depot a few days ago, just browsing. I came across this butcher block conditioner. I wasn't sure about it, and had never heard of it. However, since it says on it's instructions that it's good for wooden bowls, I decided to give it a try. Remember, I am new to finishing food safe items, but with practice, I think this stuff has the potential to be a real nice finish option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished bowl wound up being a little over seven inches across, and four inches high. I have never met Grizzman in person, but his personality makes me think he may be a hearty eater. I wanted him to be able to get enough in this bowl that he would actually use it, from time to time at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there is is, my first bowl that is actually meant to be sent out to someone to use. It may not be perfect, but I am mighty proud of it and hope that Grizzman is happy with it as I am.
> Grizz, it has taken me a while to get there, but I FINALLY have completed you a bowl. Now, I am sorry my friend, but it will be April at the earliest before I can ship it. The kids have this nasty habit of wanting to eat and all you know. I'm afraid you'll just have to eat corn flakes out of something else until then.


It does seem kind of crazy when I think about it now Andy.
You use the wire just to rub along a groove in the wood to burn it. This is what makes the black lines you see in some turnings. I wouldn't have considered a small piece of wire like that catching in any way if someone hadn't said it's happens. It just doesn't seem likely. I guess anything is possible though.
I figured it wasn't worth chancing though. It's easy to make handles for it. Just cut off two dowels. I used 7/8". Drill a sixteenth inch hole in each section. Thread the wire through and bend over. You can glue the wire down to keep it from pulling out, but I had long enough pieces that I ran mine back through the hole in a fashion that sort of tied it on the dowel.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Trying Something Different With The Next Glueup*

If you've been reading my blog, you know I glued up two bowl blank. I turned one of them yesterday. It was made of sycamore and it was easy to turn. So I thought I had this thing licked. Then again, today was another day. 
The second glueup was of pecan, and it did not turn nearly as easily as the sycamore. I already knew that pecan was a hard wood. I've worked with it often on smaller projects, and flat type wood work. This is the first time though for me to turn a piece this size of dry pecan. Something I figure out very quickly, well two things:
1. Sharpen the tools often. This hard of wood dulls them quickly. 
2. Take tiny passes. Everytime I started getting too frisky with how much material I was taking, the lathe would bog down. At first, I thought I was having motor issues again. I checked everything and the motor was running fine. This stuff just does not like to be man handled. It likes to be cut slow and easy.








The recipient of this bowl say it is going on a shelf. It is to be inspiration when something new is tried. So in turn, I decided to try something I haven't done while making it. Sure, I could just turn a bowl. I know I can do that now. What would be the fun in that though?








Someone yesterday was concerned because of a photo I'd posted that maybe I was trying to cut too far over my tool rest. I seen the photo was a little deceiving because I snapped it after working on the rim. So I decided to take a photo today and show the tool rest I use when I am working on the inside of bowls. I have two different sizes of these curved rests. I have a buddy that does blacksmithing work though. I have talked with him about making me a couple more rests. I'd like to have a straight rest that sticks out one way from the post, to the right, for working on straight sides. I'd also like a couple more different sized curned rests because I seem to enjoy doing so many different sized things. 
However, the point is, I learned quickly, the hard way, not to work too far over the tool rest. There have been a few times I couldn't help it. When that happens though, I go to a scraper and take my sweet time, and never use a gouge. The one time I had a gouge catch while way out over the rest, I learned real quickly that I was only along for the ride.
Randy, that's your lesson for the day. Use the proper tool rest for the job being done. Working too far over the rest can get you hurt, or at least scare the bejeebies out of you.








Now it is confession time.
I was sanding the finished bowl and couldn't firgure out what that black dot was in the center of the bottom was. It just wouldn't sand out. I took it off the chuck before I figured out what it was. That "dot", was a tiny hole. I had cut the bottom to flow at a slight decline towards the center, and at the very center, I went just a tad bit too far. I had cut it till there was a tiny hole. That's not good. 
Luckily, the recipient says the bowl is going on a shelf. To my understanding, this one will not be used in the kitchen. So, where I normally leave a recessed tennon on the bottom of my bowls, I plugged this one to cover that tiny hole. 
















So, this bowl wound up being seven and a half inches across, and four and three quarters inches tall. It is finished with the same butcher block conditioner that I finished the bowl with yesterday. 
Something else you may notice is the pattern. For the glueup, I used some dried pecan that I have. This pecan though is made up of light and dark strips of pecan. I did not glue them that way, but they are the way that I recieved them. When I planed and glued up the disks a few days ago, I turned every other disk to try and scatter the light and dark pieces throughout the piece. I wasn't sure how that was going to look, but I think it turned out real nice. It turned out nice enough in fact, that my wife already says she wants some cereal bowls with similar patterns.








































I will send a private message to the recipient in a moment. Anyone who has kept up with all this and all that's happened to me recently already knows who it is. 
There it is though. Pecan is a beautiful wood to work with. I have several pieces of furniture in my home that I've made out of this same pecan, because I like it so much. It is hard though. 
I did not realize how easy it is to bog down a three quarter horse motor. With this pecan though, it is quite easy. While working on the outer edges of this bowl, I had to take extremely light passes. I thought it was my motor at first. Then I noticed that, as I worked in closer to the center line, there was no bogging down issues at all. So what I concluded was that, with a hard wood such as pecan, working far from the center, if you try to cut too deeply, the tool digs in and acts like a long fulcrum, giving you leverage against the motor and yes, you can bog down the motor. I have to remember this and learn what I can and can't do, and with how much force, I can do with different woods.
I hope you all like this bowl because, according to my wife, I'll be making more of them in the future.


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Trying Something Different With The Next Glueup*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog, you know I glued up two bowl blank. I turned one of them yesterday. It was made of sycamore and it was easy to turn. So I thought I had this thing licked. Then again, today was another day.
> The second glueup was of pecan, and it did not turn nearly as easily as the sycamore. I already knew that pecan was a hard wood. I've worked with it often on smaller projects, and flat type wood work. This is the first time though for me to turn a piece this size of dry pecan. Something I figure out very quickly, well two things:
> 1. Sharpen the tools often. This hard of wood dulls them quickly.
> 2. Take tiny passes. Everytime I started getting too frisky with how much material I was taking, the lathe would bog down. At first, I thought I was having motor issues again. I checked everything and the motor was running fine. This stuff just does not like to be man handled. It likes to be cut slow and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this bowl say it is going on a shelf. It is to be inspiration when something new is tried. So in turn, I decided to try something I haven't done while making it. Sure, I could just turn a bowl. I know I can do that now. What would be the fun in that though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone yesterday was concerned because of a photo I'd posted that maybe I was trying to cut too far over my tool rest. I seen the photo was a little deceiving because I snapped it after working on the rim. So I decided to take a photo today and show the tool rest I use when I am working on the inside of bowls. I have two different sizes of these curved rests. I have a buddy that does blacksmithing work though. I have talked with him about making me a couple more rests. I'd like to have a straight rest that sticks out one way from the post, to the right, for working on straight sides. I'd also like a couple more different sized curned rests because I seem to enjoy doing so many different sized things.
> However, the point is, I learned quickly, the hard way, not to work too far over the tool rest. There have been a few times I couldn't help it. When that happens though, I go to a scraper and take my sweet time, and never use a gouge. The one time I had a gouge catch while way out over the rest, I learned real quickly that I was only along for the ride.
> Randy, that's your lesson for the day. Use the proper tool rest for the job being done. Working too far over the rest can get you hurt, or at least scare the bejeebies out of you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is confession time.
> I was sanding the finished bowl and couldn't firgure out what that black dot was in the center of the bottom was. It just wouldn't sand out. I took it off the chuck before I figured out what it was. That "dot", was a tiny hole. I had cut the bottom to flow at a slight decline towards the center, and at the very center, I went just a tad bit too far. I had cut it till there was a tiny hole. That's not good.
> Luckily, the recipient says the bowl is going on a shelf. To my understanding, this one will not be used in the kitchen. So, where I normally leave a recessed tennon on the bottom of my bowls, I plugged this one to cover that tiny hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, this bowl wound up being seven and a half inches across, and four and three quarters inches tall. It is finished with the same butcher block conditioner that I finished the bowl with yesterday.
> Something else you may notice is the pattern. For the glueup, I used some dried pecan that I have. This pecan though is made up of light and dark strips of pecan. I did not glue them that way, but they are the way that I recieved them. When I planed and glued up the disks a few days ago, I turned every other disk to try and scatter the light and dark pieces throughout the piece. I wasn't sure how that was going to look, but I think it turned out real nice. It turned out nice enough in fact, that my wife already says she wants some cereal bowls with similar patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will send a private message to the recipient in a moment. Anyone who has kept up with all this and all that's happened to me recently already knows who it is.
> There it is though. Pecan is a beautiful wood to work with. I have several pieces of furniture in my home that I've made out of this same pecan, because I like it so much. It is hard though.
> I did not realize how easy it is to bog down a three quarter horse motor. With this pecan though, it is quite easy. While working on the outer edges of this bowl, I had to take extremely light passes. I thought it was my motor at first. Then I noticed that, as I worked in closer to the center line, there was no bogging down issues at all. So what I concluded was that, with a hard wood such as pecan, working far from the center, if you try to cut too deeply, the tool digs in and acts like a long fulcrum, giving you leverage against the motor and yes, you can bog down the motor. I have to remember this and learn what I can and can't do, and with how much force, I can do with different woods.
> I hope you all like this bowl because, according to my wife, I'll be making more of them in the future.


Somebody in Alabama has a new pecan flavored cereal bowl…..


----------



## ShaneA

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Trying Something Different With The Next Glueup*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog, you know I glued up two bowl blank. I turned one of them yesterday. It was made of sycamore and it was easy to turn. So I thought I had this thing licked. Then again, today was another day.
> The second glueup was of pecan, and it did not turn nearly as easily as the sycamore. I already knew that pecan was a hard wood. I've worked with it often on smaller projects, and flat type wood work. This is the first time though for me to turn a piece this size of dry pecan. Something I figure out very quickly, well two things:
> 1. Sharpen the tools often. This hard of wood dulls them quickly.
> 2. Take tiny passes. Everytime I started getting too frisky with how much material I was taking, the lathe would bog down. At first, I thought I was having motor issues again. I checked everything and the motor was running fine. This stuff just does not like to be man handled. It likes to be cut slow and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this bowl say it is going on a shelf. It is to be inspiration when something new is tried. So in turn, I decided to try something I haven't done while making it. Sure, I could just turn a bowl. I know I can do that now. What would be the fun in that though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone yesterday was concerned because of a photo I'd posted that maybe I was trying to cut too far over my tool rest. I seen the photo was a little deceiving because I snapped it after working on the rim. So I decided to take a photo today and show the tool rest I use when I am working on the inside of bowls. I have two different sizes of these curved rests. I have a buddy that does blacksmithing work though. I have talked with him about making me a couple more rests. I'd like to have a straight rest that sticks out one way from the post, to the right, for working on straight sides. I'd also like a couple more different sized curned rests because I seem to enjoy doing so many different sized things.
> However, the point is, I learned quickly, the hard way, not to work too far over the tool rest. There have been a few times I couldn't help it. When that happens though, I go to a scraper and take my sweet time, and never use a gouge. The one time I had a gouge catch while way out over the rest, I learned real quickly that I was only along for the ride.
> Randy, that's your lesson for the day. Use the proper tool rest for the job being done. Working too far over the rest can get you hurt, or at least scare the bejeebies out of you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is confession time.
> I was sanding the finished bowl and couldn't firgure out what that black dot was in the center of the bottom was. It just wouldn't sand out. I took it off the chuck before I figured out what it was. That "dot", was a tiny hole. I had cut the bottom to flow at a slight decline towards the center, and at the very center, I went just a tad bit too far. I had cut it till there was a tiny hole. That's not good.
> Luckily, the recipient says the bowl is going on a shelf. To my understanding, this one will not be used in the kitchen. So, where I normally leave a recessed tennon on the bottom of my bowls, I plugged this one to cover that tiny hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, this bowl wound up being seven and a half inches across, and four and three quarters inches tall. It is finished with the same butcher block conditioner that I finished the bowl with yesterday.
> Something else you may notice is the pattern. For the glueup, I used some dried pecan that I have. This pecan though is made up of light and dark strips of pecan. I did not glue them that way, but they are the way that I recieved them. When I planed and glued up the disks a few days ago, I turned every other disk to try and scatter the light and dark pieces throughout the piece. I wasn't sure how that was going to look, but I think it turned out real nice. It turned out nice enough in fact, that my wife already says she wants some cereal bowls with similar patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will send a private message to the recipient in a moment. Anyone who has kept up with all this and all that's happened to me recently already knows who it is.
> There it is though. Pecan is a beautiful wood to work with. I have several pieces of furniture in my home that I've made out of this same pecan, because I like it so much. It is hard though.
> I did not realize how easy it is to bog down a three quarter horse motor. With this pecan though, it is quite easy. While working on the outer edges of this bowl, I had to take extremely light passes. I thought it was my motor at first. Then I noticed that, as I worked in closer to the center line, there was no bogging down issues at all. So what I concluded was that, with a hard wood such as pecan, working far from the center, if you try to cut too deeply, the tool digs in and acts like a long fulcrum, giving you leverage against the motor and yes, you can bog down the motor. I have to remember this and learn what I can and can't do, and with how much force, I can do with different woods.
> I hope you all like this bowl because, according to my wife, I'll be making more of them in the future.


Looks like it is coming together nicely for you. Just in a few weeks, I see lots of progress.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Trying Something Different With The Next Glueup*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog, you know I glued up two bowl blank. I turned one of them yesterday. It was made of sycamore and it was easy to turn. So I thought I had this thing licked. Then again, today was another day.
> The second glueup was of pecan, and it did not turn nearly as easily as the sycamore. I already knew that pecan was a hard wood. I've worked with it often on smaller projects, and flat type wood work. This is the first time though for me to turn a piece this size of dry pecan. Something I figure out very quickly, well two things:
> 1. Sharpen the tools often. This hard of wood dulls them quickly.
> 2. Take tiny passes. Everytime I started getting too frisky with how much material I was taking, the lathe would bog down. At first, I thought I was having motor issues again. I checked everything and the motor was running fine. This stuff just does not like to be man handled. It likes to be cut slow and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this bowl say it is going on a shelf. It is to be inspiration when something new is tried. So in turn, I decided to try something I haven't done while making it. Sure, I could just turn a bowl. I know I can do that now. What would be the fun in that though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone yesterday was concerned because of a photo I'd posted that maybe I was trying to cut too far over my tool rest. I seen the photo was a little deceiving because I snapped it after working on the rim. So I decided to take a photo today and show the tool rest I use when I am working on the inside of bowls. I have two different sizes of these curved rests. I have a buddy that does blacksmithing work though. I have talked with him about making me a couple more rests. I'd like to have a straight rest that sticks out one way from the post, to the right, for working on straight sides. I'd also like a couple more different sized curned rests because I seem to enjoy doing so many different sized things.
> However, the point is, I learned quickly, the hard way, not to work too far over the tool rest. There have been a few times I couldn't help it. When that happens though, I go to a scraper and take my sweet time, and never use a gouge. The one time I had a gouge catch while way out over the rest, I learned real quickly that I was only along for the ride.
> Randy, that's your lesson for the day. Use the proper tool rest for the job being done. Working too far over the rest can get you hurt, or at least scare the bejeebies out of you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is confession time.
> I was sanding the finished bowl and couldn't firgure out what that black dot was in the center of the bottom was. It just wouldn't sand out. I took it off the chuck before I figured out what it was. That "dot", was a tiny hole. I had cut the bottom to flow at a slight decline towards the center, and at the very center, I went just a tad bit too far. I had cut it till there was a tiny hole. That's not good.
> Luckily, the recipient says the bowl is going on a shelf. To my understanding, this one will not be used in the kitchen. So, where I normally leave a recessed tennon on the bottom of my bowls, I plugged this one to cover that tiny hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, this bowl wound up being seven and a half inches across, and four and three quarters inches tall. It is finished with the same butcher block conditioner that I finished the bowl with yesterday.
> Something else you may notice is the pattern. For the glueup, I used some dried pecan that I have. This pecan though is made up of light and dark strips of pecan. I did not glue them that way, but they are the way that I recieved them. When I planed and glued up the disks a few days ago, I turned every other disk to try and scatter the light and dark pieces throughout the piece. I wasn't sure how that was going to look, but I think it turned out real nice. It turned out nice enough in fact, that my wife already says she wants some cereal bowls with similar patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will send a private message to the recipient in a moment. Anyone who has kept up with all this and all that's happened to me recently already knows who it is.
> There it is though. Pecan is a beautiful wood to work with. I have several pieces of furniture in my home that I've made out of this same pecan, because I like it so much. It is hard though.
> I did not realize how easy it is to bog down a three quarter horse motor. With this pecan though, it is quite easy. While working on the outer edges of this bowl, I had to take extremely light passes. I thought it was my motor at first. Then I noticed that, as I worked in closer to the center line, there was no bogging down issues at all. So what I concluded was that, with a hard wood such as pecan, working far from the center, if you try to cut too deeply, the tool digs in and acts like a long fulcrum, giving you leverage against the motor and yes, you can bog down the motor. I have to remember this and learn what I can and can't do, and with how much force, I can do with different woods.
> I hope you all like this bowl because, according to my wife, I'll be making more of them in the future.


This is good!


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Trying Something Different With The Next Glueup*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog, you know I glued up two bowl blank. I turned one of them yesterday. It was made of sycamore and it was easy to turn. So I thought I had this thing licked. Then again, today was another day.
> The second glueup was of pecan, and it did not turn nearly as easily as the sycamore. I already knew that pecan was a hard wood. I've worked with it often on smaller projects, and flat type wood work. This is the first time though for me to turn a piece this size of dry pecan. Something I figure out very quickly, well two things:
> 1. Sharpen the tools often. This hard of wood dulls them quickly.
> 2. Take tiny passes. Everytime I started getting too frisky with how much material I was taking, the lathe would bog down. At first, I thought I was having motor issues again. I checked everything and the motor was running fine. This stuff just does not like to be man handled. It likes to be cut slow and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this bowl say it is going on a shelf. It is to be inspiration when something new is tried. So in turn, I decided to try something I haven't done while making it. Sure, I could just turn a bowl. I know I can do that now. What would be the fun in that though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone yesterday was concerned because of a photo I'd posted that maybe I was trying to cut too far over my tool rest. I seen the photo was a little deceiving because I snapped it after working on the rim. So I decided to take a photo today and show the tool rest I use when I am working on the inside of bowls. I have two different sizes of these curved rests. I have a buddy that does blacksmithing work though. I have talked with him about making me a couple more rests. I'd like to have a straight rest that sticks out one way from the post, to the right, for working on straight sides. I'd also like a couple more different sized curned rests because I seem to enjoy doing so many different sized things.
> However, the point is, I learned quickly, the hard way, not to work too far over the tool rest. There have been a few times I couldn't help it. When that happens though, I go to a scraper and take my sweet time, and never use a gouge. The one time I had a gouge catch while way out over the rest, I learned real quickly that I was only along for the ride.
> Randy, that's your lesson for the day. Use the proper tool rest for the job being done. Working too far over the rest can get you hurt, or at least scare the bejeebies out of you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is confession time.
> I was sanding the finished bowl and couldn't firgure out what that black dot was in the center of the bottom was. It just wouldn't sand out. I took it off the chuck before I figured out what it was. That "dot", was a tiny hole. I had cut the bottom to flow at a slight decline towards the center, and at the very center, I went just a tad bit too far. I had cut it till there was a tiny hole. That's not good.
> Luckily, the recipient says the bowl is going on a shelf. To my understanding, this one will not be used in the kitchen. So, where I normally leave a recessed tennon on the bottom of my bowls, I plugged this one to cover that tiny hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, this bowl wound up being seven and a half inches across, and four and three quarters inches tall. It is finished with the same butcher block conditioner that I finished the bowl with yesterday.
> Something else you may notice is the pattern. For the glueup, I used some dried pecan that I have. This pecan though is made up of light and dark strips of pecan. I did not glue them that way, but they are the way that I recieved them. When I planed and glued up the disks a few days ago, I turned every other disk to try and scatter the light and dark pieces throughout the piece. I wasn't sure how that was going to look, but I think it turned out real nice. It turned out nice enough in fact, that my wife already says she wants some cereal bowls with similar patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will send a private message to the recipient in a moment. Anyone who has kept up with all this and all that's happened to me recently already knows who it is.
> There it is though. Pecan is a beautiful wood to work with. I have several pieces of furniture in my home that I've made out of this same pecan, because I like it so much. It is hard though.
> I did not realize how easy it is to bog down a three quarter horse motor. With this pecan though, it is quite easy. While working on the outer edges of this bowl, I had to take extremely light passes. I thought it was my motor at first. Then I noticed that, as I worked in closer to the center line, there was no bogging down issues at all. So what I concluded was that, with a hard wood such as pecan, working far from the center, if you try to cut too deeply, the tool digs in and acts like a long fulcrum, giving you leverage against the motor and yes, you can bog down the motor. I have to remember this and learn what I can and can't do, and with how much force, I can do with different woods.
> I hope you all like this bowl because, according to my wife, I'll be making more of them in the future.


wow that's one of your prettiest ones William, hope they also feel honor'd i was telling my sister in law about you today,well we never know what you will be turning next, your on fire William…im enjoying seeing your increase in knowledge and ability…have fun William..


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Trying Something Different With The Next Glueup*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog, you know I glued up two bowl blank. I turned one of them yesterday. It was made of sycamore and it was easy to turn. So I thought I had this thing licked. Then again, today was another day.
> The second glueup was of pecan, and it did not turn nearly as easily as the sycamore. I already knew that pecan was a hard wood. I've worked with it often on smaller projects, and flat type wood work. This is the first time though for me to turn a piece this size of dry pecan. Something I figure out very quickly, well two things:
> 1. Sharpen the tools often. This hard of wood dulls them quickly.
> 2. Take tiny passes. Everytime I started getting too frisky with how much material I was taking, the lathe would bog down. At first, I thought I was having motor issues again. I checked everything and the motor was running fine. This stuff just does not like to be man handled. It likes to be cut slow and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this bowl say it is going on a shelf. It is to be inspiration when something new is tried. So in turn, I decided to try something I haven't done while making it. Sure, I could just turn a bowl. I know I can do that now. What would be the fun in that though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone yesterday was concerned because of a photo I'd posted that maybe I was trying to cut too far over my tool rest. I seen the photo was a little deceiving because I snapped it after working on the rim. So I decided to take a photo today and show the tool rest I use when I am working on the inside of bowls. I have two different sizes of these curved rests. I have a buddy that does blacksmithing work though. I have talked with him about making me a couple more rests. I'd like to have a straight rest that sticks out one way from the post, to the right, for working on straight sides. I'd also like a couple more different sized curned rests because I seem to enjoy doing so many different sized things.
> However, the point is, I learned quickly, the hard way, not to work too far over the tool rest. There have been a few times I couldn't help it. When that happens though, I go to a scraper and take my sweet time, and never use a gouge. The one time I had a gouge catch while way out over the rest, I learned real quickly that I was only along for the ride.
> Randy, that's your lesson for the day. Use the proper tool rest for the job being done. Working too far over the rest can get you hurt, or at least scare the bejeebies out of you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is confession time.
> I was sanding the finished bowl and couldn't firgure out what that black dot was in the center of the bottom was. It just wouldn't sand out. I took it off the chuck before I figured out what it was. That "dot", was a tiny hole. I had cut the bottom to flow at a slight decline towards the center, and at the very center, I went just a tad bit too far. I had cut it till there was a tiny hole. That's not good.
> Luckily, the recipient says the bowl is going on a shelf. To my understanding, this one will not be used in the kitchen. So, where I normally leave a recessed tennon on the bottom of my bowls, I plugged this one to cover that tiny hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, this bowl wound up being seven and a half inches across, and four and three quarters inches tall. It is finished with the same butcher block conditioner that I finished the bowl with yesterday.
> Something else you may notice is the pattern. For the glueup, I used some dried pecan that I have. This pecan though is made up of light and dark strips of pecan. I did not glue them that way, but they are the way that I recieved them. When I planed and glued up the disks a few days ago, I turned every other disk to try and scatter the light and dark pieces throughout the piece. I wasn't sure how that was going to look, but I think it turned out real nice. It turned out nice enough in fact, that my wife already says she wants some cereal bowls with similar patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will send a private message to the recipient in a moment. Anyone who has kept up with all this and all that's happened to me recently already knows who it is.
> There it is though. Pecan is a beautiful wood to work with. I have several pieces of furniture in my home that I've made out of this same pecan, because I like it so much. It is hard though.
> I did not realize how easy it is to bog down a three quarter horse motor. With this pecan though, it is quite easy. While working on the outer edges of this bowl, I had to take extremely light passes. I thought it was my motor at first. Then I noticed that, as I worked in closer to the center line, there was no bogging down issues at all. So what I concluded was that, with a hard wood such as pecan, working far from the center, if you try to cut too deeply, the tool digs in and acts like a long fulcrum, giving you leverage against the motor and yes, you can bog down the motor. I have to remember this and learn what I can and can't do, and with how much force, I can do with different woods.
> I hope you all like this bowl because, according to my wife, I'll be making more of them in the future.


William that is going great
That mixed random timber looks really great
Jamie


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Trying Something Different With The Next Glueup*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog, you know I glued up two bowl blank. I turned one of them yesterday. It was made of sycamore and it was easy to turn. So I thought I had this thing licked. Then again, today was another day.
> The second glueup was of pecan, and it did not turn nearly as easily as the sycamore. I already knew that pecan was a hard wood. I've worked with it often on smaller projects, and flat type wood work. This is the first time though for me to turn a piece this size of dry pecan. Something I figure out very quickly, well two things:
> 1. Sharpen the tools often. This hard of wood dulls them quickly.
> 2. Take tiny passes. Everytime I started getting too frisky with how much material I was taking, the lathe would bog down. At first, I thought I was having motor issues again. I checked everything and the motor was running fine. This stuff just does not like to be man handled. It likes to be cut slow and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this bowl say it is going on a shelf. It is to be inspiration when something new is tried. So in turn, I decided to try something I haven't done while making it. Sure, I could just turn a bowl. I know I can do that now. What would be the fun in that though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone yesterday was concerned because of a photo I'd posted that maybe I was trying to cut too far over my tool rest. I seen the photo was a little deceiving because I snapped it after working on the rim. So I decided to take a photo today and show the tool rest I use when I am working on the inside of bowls. I have two different sizes of these curved rests. I have a buddy that does blacksmithing work though. I have talked with him about making me a couple more rests. I'd like to have a straight rest that sticks out one way from the post, to the right, for working on straight sides. I'd also like a couple more different sized curned rests because I seem to enjoy doing so many different sized things.
> However, the point is, I learned quickly, the hard way, not to work too far over the tool rest. There have been a few times I couldn't help it. When that happens though, I go to a scraper and take my sweet time, and never use a gouge. The one time I had a gouge catch while way out over the rest, I learned real quickly that I was only along for the ride.
> Randy, that's your lesson for the day. Use the proper tool rest for the job being done. Working too far over the rest can get you hurt, or at least scare the bejeebies out of you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is confession time.
> I was sanding the finished bowl and couldn't firgure out what that black dot was in the center of the bottom was. It just wouldn't sand out. I took it off the chuck before I figured out what it was. That "dot", was a tiny hole. I had cut the bottom to flow at a slight decline towards the center, and at the very center, I went just a tad bit too far. I had cut it till there was a tiny hole. That's not good.
> Luckily, the recipient says the bowl is going on a shelf. To my understanding, this one will not be used in the kitchen. So, where I normally leave a recessed tennon on the bottom of my bowls, I plugged this one to cover that tiny hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, this bowl wound up being seven and a half inches across, and four and three quarters inches tall. It is finished with the same butcher block conditioner that I finished the bowl with yesterday.
> Something else you may notice is the pattern. For the glueup, I used some dried pecan that I have. This pecan though is made up of light and dark strips of pecan. I did not glue them that way, but they are the way that I recieved them. When I planed and glued up the disks a few days ago, I turned every other disk to try and scatter the light and dark pieces throughout the piece. I wasn't sure how that was going to look, but I think it turned out real nice. It turned out nice enough in fact, that my wife already says she wants some cereal bowls with similar patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will send a private message to the recipient in a moment. Anyone who has kept up with all this and all that's happened to me recently already knows who it is.
> There it is though. Pecan is a beautiful wood to work with. I have several pieces of furniture in my home that I've made out of this same pecan, because I like it so much. It is hard though.
> I did not realize how easy it is to bog down a three quarter horse motor. With this pecan though, it is quite easy. While working on the outer edges of this bowl, I had to take extremely light passes. I thought it was my motor at first. Then I noticed that, as I worked in closer to the center line, there was no bogging down issues at all. So what I concluded was that, with a hard wood such as pecan, working far from the center, if you try to cut too deeply, the tool digs in and acts like a long fulcrum, giving you leverage against the motor and yes, you can bog down the motor. I have to remember this and learn what I can and can't do, and with how much force, I can do with different woods.
> I hope you all like this bowl because, according to my wife, I'll be making more of them in the future.


Great looking bowl William. A depth gauge is very handy, along with frequent checks as you turn. A piece of masking tape on your bowl gouge to indicate total depth works well. On wet wood I use a long 1/2" bit held at the end with vise grips to drill a center hole down to final depth, so when the hole disappears you are there. Probably not safe with dry wood.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Trying Something Different With The Next Glueup*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog, you know I glued up two bowl blank. I turned one of them yesterday. It was made of sycamore and it was easy to turn. So I thought I had this thing licked. Then again, today was another day.
> The second glueup was of pecan, and it did not turn nearly as easily as the sycamore. I already knew that pecan was a hard wood. I've worked with it often on smaller projects, and flat type wood work. This is the first time though for me to turn a piece this size of dry pecan. Something I figure out very quickly, well two things:
> 1. Sharpen the tools often. This hard of wood dulls them quickly.
> 2. Take tiny passes. Everytime I started getting too frisky with how much material I was taking, the lathe would bog down. At first, I thought I was having motor issues again. I checked everything and the motor was running fine. This stuff just does not like to be man handled. It likes to be cut slow and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this bowl say it is going on a shelf. It is to be inspiration when something new is tried. So in turn, I decided to try something I haven't done while making it. Sure, I could just turn a bowl. I know I can do that now. What would be the fun in that though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone yesterday was concerned because of a photo I'd posted that maybe I was trying to cut too far over my tool rest. I seen the photo was a little deceiving because I snapped it after working on the rim. So I decided to take a photo today and show the tool rest I use when I am working on the inside of bowls. I have two different sizes of these curved rests. I have a buddy that does blacksmithing work though. I have talked with him about making me a couple more rests. I'd like to have a straight rest that sticks out one way from the post, to the right, for working on straight sides. I'd also like a couple more different sized curned rests because I seem to enjoy doing so many different sized things.
> However, the point is, I learned quickly, the hard way, not to work too far over the tool rest. There have been a few times I couldn't help it. When that happens though, I go to a scraper and take my sweet time, and never use a gouge. The one time I had a gouge catch while way out over the rest, I learned real quickly that I was only along for the ride.
> Randy, that's your lesson for the day. Use the proper tool rest for the job being done. Working too far over the rest can get you hurt, or at least scare the bejeebies out of you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is confession time.
> I was sanding the finished bowl and couldn't firgure out what that black dot was in the center of the bottom was. It just wouldn't sand out. I took it off the chuck before I figured out what it was. That "dot", was a tiny hole. I had cut the bottom to flow at a slight decline towards the center, and at the very center, I went just a tad bit too far. I had cut it till there was a tiny hole. That's not good.
> Luckily, the recipient says the bowl is going on a shelf. To my understanding, this one will not be used in the kitchen. So, where I normally leave a recessed tennon on the bottom of my bowls, I plugged this one to cover that tiny hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, this bowl wound up being seven and a half inches across, and four and three quarters inches tall. It is finished with the same butcher block conditioner that I finished the bowl with yesterday.
> Something else you may notice is the pattern. For the glueup, I used some dried pecan that I have. This pecan though is made up of light and dark strips of pecan. I did not glue them that way, but they are the way that I recieved them. When I planed and glued up the disks a few days ago, I turned every other disk to try and scatter the light and dark pieces throughout the piece. I wasn't sure how that was going to look, but I think it turned out real nice. It turned out nice enough in fact, that my wife already says she wants some cereal bowls with similar patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will send a private message to the recipient in a moment. Anyone who has kept up with all this and all that's happened to me recently already knows who it is.
> There it is though. Pecan is a beautiful wood to work with. I have several pieces of furniture in my home that I've made out of this same pecan, because I like it so much. It is hard though.
> I did not realize how easy it is to bog down a three quarter horse motor. With this pecan though, it is quite easy. While working on the outer edges of this bowl, I had to take extremely light passes. I thought it was my motor at first. Then I noticed that, as I worked in closer to the center line, there was no bogging down issues at all. So what I concluded was that, with a hard wood such as pecan, working far from the center, if you try to cut too deeply, the tool digs in and acts like a long fulcrum, giving you leverage against the motor and yes, you can bog down the motor. I have to remember this and learn what I can and can't do, and with how much force, I can do with different woods.
> I hope you all like this bowl because, according to my wife, I'll be making more of them in the future.


Thank you all.
About the hole, I thought I'd explain better based on Stefang's response.
I have a shop made depth gauge. I actually turned this to leave a three eighths inch thick bottom. That was my plan anyway. I had a bad pass though and wound up with some chatter while cleaning up the bottom. I made a decision to "flow" the bottom from the outer edge to the center in a slight slope. I think this looked good, and all would have been well, except maybe I sloped it just a tad too much. I forgot to account for the depth a slope could cause from the outside all the way to the center of a bowl this size. When working with angles, even slight angles, it doesn't take far to go quite a bit off your original line. I know this in flat work, but I'm still learning to account for these sort of things on the lathe. This is just another lesson learned the hard way.
To make matters worse, or make me feel worse anyhow, I was using a depth gauge and checking often. There's a problem with that too though. My depth gauge is shop made with an old ruler. The ruler is about three quarters inch wide. According to it, I still had about three sixteenth of an inch to work with. What I did not consider, again with the slope, is that with the wide rule, the end of my depth gauge was sitting a tad above the actual center line. I hope I'm explaining that one correctly. The corners of the ruler was sitting a tad on each side of the center line, leaving space between the end of the ruler and the exact center. This threw the true center measurement off and caused the problem.
Now, all this could have been prevented on my part.
I commented how hard this pecan is. If I tried working over about three quarters of an inch over the tool rest I got chatter. I normally can work a tad further than that, but this pecan was being picky. Anyway, all went well. Then, near the bottom of this, I was paying close attention to the outward curve from the middle of the sides, to the bottom and then trying to make sure I made a smooth transition from that and then across the bottom. Well, in all this, I forgot something important. I had worked down to where I needed to move my tool rest further in and hadn't. Then it happened. I was trying to take a very light final pass. That's when I got the chatter that chewed up the clean bottom I'd been working on, and caused me to have to start working further than I wanted to begine with.

So, I guess the advice I'm trying to give is to check, check and double check. Exspecially when I'm getting close to finishing, I need to remember to make sure everything, like the tool rest, is exactly where I need it. Not to do so can cause issues.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Trying Something Different With The Next Glueup*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog, you know I glued up two bowl blank. I turned one of them yesterday. It was made of sycamore and it was easy to turn. So I thought I had this thing licked. Then again, today was another day.
> The second glueup was of pecan, and it did not turn nearly as easily as the sycamore. I already knew that pecan was a hard wood. I've worked with it often on smaller projects, and flat type wood work. This is the first time though for me to turn a piece this size of dry pecan. Something I figure out very quickly, well two things:
> 1. Sharpen the tools often. This hard of wood dulls them quickly.
> 2. Take tiny passes. Everytime I started getting too frisky with how much material I was taking, the lathe would bog down. At first, I thought I was having motor issues again. I checked everything and the motor was running fine. This stuff just does not like to be man handled. It likes to be cut slow and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this bowl say it is going on a shelf. It is to be inspiration when something new is tried. So in turn, I decided to try something I haven't done while making it. Sure, I could just turn a bowl. I know I can do that now. What would be the fun in that though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone yesterday was concerned because of a photo I'd posted that maybe I was trying to cut too far over my tool rest. I seen the photo was a little deceiving because I snapped it after working on the rim. So I decided to take a photo today and show the tool rest I use when I am working on the inside of bowls. I have two different sizes of these curved rests. I have a buddy that does blacksmithing work though. I have talked with him about making me a couple more rests. I'd like to have a straight rest that sticks out one way from the post, to the right, for working on straight sides. I'd also like a couple more different sized curned rests because I seem to enjoy doing so many different sized things.
> However, the point is, I learned quickly, the hard way, not to work too far over the tool rest. There have been a few times I couldn't help it. When that happens though, I go to a scraper and take my sweet time, and never use a gouge. The one time I had a gouge catch while way out over the rest, I learned real quickly that I was only along for the ride.
> Randy, that's your lesson for the day. Use the proper tool rest for the job being done. Working too far over the rest can get you hurt, or at least scare the bejeebies out of you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is confession time.
> I was sanding the finished bowl and couldn't firgure out what that black dot was in the center of the bottom was. It just wouldn't sand out. I took it off the chuck before I figured out what it was. That "dot", was a tiny hole. I had cut the bottom to flow at a slight decline towards the center, and at the very center, I went just a tad bit too far. I had cut it till there was a tiny hole. That's not good.
> Luckily, the recipient says the bowl is going on a shelf. To my understanding, this one will not be used in the kitchen. So, where I normally leave a recessed tennon on the bottom of my bowls, I plugged this one to cover that tiny hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, this bowl wound up being seven and a half inches across, and four and three quarters inches tall. It is finished with the same butcher block conditioner that I finished the bowl with yesterday.
> Something else you may notice is the pattern. For the glueup, I used some dried pecan that I have. This pecan though is made up of light and dark strips of pecan. I did not glue them that way, but they are the way that I recieved them. When I planed and glued up the disks a few days ago, I turned every other disk to try and scatter the light and dark pieces throughout the piece. I wasn't sure how that was going to look, but I think it turned out real nice. It turned out nice enough in fact, that my wife already says she wants some cereal bowls with similar patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will send a private message to the recipient in a moment. Anyone who has kept up with all this and all that's happened to me recently already knows who it is.
> There it is though. Pecan is a beautiful wood to work with. I have several pieces of furniture in my home that I've made out of this same pecan, because I like it so much. It is hard though.
> I did not realize how easy it is to bog down a three quarter horse motor. With this pecan though, it is quite easy. While working on the outer edges of this bowl, I had to take extremely light passes. I thought it was my motor at first. Then I noticed that, as I worked in closer to the center line, there was no bogging down issues at all. So what I concluded was that, with a hard wood such as pecan, working far from the center, if you try to cut too deeply, the tool digs in and acts like a long fulcrum, giving you leverage against the motor and yes, you can bog down the motor. I have to remember this and learn what I can and can't do, and with how much force, I can do with different woods.
> I hope you all like this bowl because, according to my wife, I'll be making more of them in the future.


Marty, the one I made yesterday is going to Alabama. This one has to make a trip all the way to Canada.

Shane, thank you. I am loving this wood turning. I am making progress. However, the learning is half the fun. Everytime I think I have something perfected, I usually figure out somehow that I am a beginner and still have a long ways to go. Each piece of wood and situation reacts differently to how you present the tool. So it's just practice, practice, practice.

Bearpie, thank you.

Grizz. Thank you and you are very correct. There's never any telling what I may be working on next. There's so much to turn. Also, I'm starting to hear my scroll saw weep a bit when I walk past her sometimes. I have a feeling I have to pay some attention to it soon as well.

Jamie, that mix does look good in my opinion. It's all pecan, but there is a dramatic contrast between the lighter and darker of the wood. I have a good bit of that wood. I do think I would like to play around with making other things besides bowls with it as well.

Stefang, thank you. Your help is always appreciated.

.

I feel bad about something this morning. I've made these two bowls; one destined for Alabama, and one for Canada. I laid in bed last night thinking about it though. I have so many friends on here that I'd like to make bowls for, not counting the ones my wife wants. The problem is, if I just started turning all the bowls I want to, I am worried I'd get burned out on the lathe pretty quickly. Ya'll know I like doing different things. 
My point is this. These two bowls are just the ones I have promised first, so I'm getting them done first. There are others here though that, one day, I wish to make a gift for. I will get to it all eventually. Anyone who doesn't get asked for an address immediately, I hope you know it does not mean that I think less of you than anyone else. Between time and shipping charges, I can only do a little at a time that has to be shipped out. 
The point being, there are four people on this thread alone that I would like to send something to. However, I can only afford to send the two things out in April. So, I have at least until May starts approaching before I worry about the next items to be shipped. So, several of you need to be ready to send me your addresses in a private message when I ask for them. I'll send out messages privately when that time comes.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Trying Something Different With The Next Glueup*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog, you know I glued up two bowl blank. I turned one of them yesterday. It was made of sycamore and it was easy to turn. So I thought I had this thing licked. Then again, today was another day.
> The second glueup was of pecan, and it did not turn nearly as easily as the sycamore. I already knew that pecan was a hard wood. I've worked with it often on smaller projects, and flat type wood work. This is the first time though for me to turn a piece this size of dry pecan. Something I figure out very quickly, well two things:
> 1. Sharpen the tools often. This hard of wood dulls them quickly.
> 2. Take tiny passes. Everytime I started getting too frisky with how much material I was taking, the lathe would bog down. At first, I thought I was having motor issues again. I checked everything and the motor was running fine. This stuff just does not like to be man handled. It likes to be cut slow and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this bowl say it is going on a shelf. It is to be inspiration when something new is tried. So in turn, I decided to try something I haven't done while making it. Sure, I could just turn a bowl. I know I can do that now. What would be the fun in that though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone yesterday was concerned because of a photo I'd posted that maybe I was trying to cut too far over my tool rest. I seen the photo was a little deceiving because I snapped it after working on the rim. So I decided to take a photo today and show the tool rest I use when I am working on the inside of bowls. I have two different sizes of these curved rests. I have a buddy that does blacksmithing work though. I have talked with him about making me a couple more rests. I'd like to have a straight rest that sticks out one way from the post, to the right, for working on straight sides. I'd also like a couple more different sized curned rests because I seem to enjoy doing so many different sized things.
> However, the point is, I learned quickly, the hard way, not to work too far over the tool rest. There have been a few times I couldn't help it. When that happens though, I go to a scraper and take my sweet time, and never use a gouge. The one time I had a gouge catch while way out over the rest, I learned real quickly that I was only along for the ride.
> Randy, that's your lesson for the day. Use the proper tool rest for the job being done. Working too far over the rest can get you hurt, or at least scare the bejeebies out of you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is confession time.
> I was sanding the finished bowl and couldn't firgure out what that black dot was in the center of the bottom was. It just wouldn't sand out. I took it off the chuck before I figured out what it was. That "dot", was a tiny hole. I had cut the bottom to flow at a slight decline towards the center, and at the very center, I went just a tad bit too far. I had cut it till there was a tiny hole. That's not good.
> Luckily, the recipient says the bowl is going on a shelf. To my understanding, this one will not be used in the kitchen. So, where I normally leave a recessed tennon on the bottom of my bowls, I plugged this one to cover that tiny hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, this bowl wound up being seven and a half inches across, and four and three quarters inches tall. It is finished with the same butcher block conditioner that I finished the bowl with yesterday.
> Something else you may notice is the pattern. For the glueup, I used some dried pecan that I have. This pecan though is made up of light and dark strips of pecan. I did not glue them that way, but they are the way that I recieved them. When I planed and glued up the disks a few days ago, I turned every other disk to try and scatter the light and dark pieces throughout the piece. I wasn't sure how that was going to look, but I think it turned out real nice. It turned out nice enough in fact, that my wife already says she wants some cereal bowls with similar patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will send a private message to the recipient in a moment. Anyone who has kept up with all this and all that's happened to me recently already knows who it is.
> There it is though. Pecan is a beautiful wood to work with. I have several pieces of furniture in my home that I've made out of this same pecan, because I like it so much. It is hard though.
> I did not realize how easy it is to bog down a three quarter horse motor. With this pecan though, it is quite easy. While working on the outer edges of this bowl, I had to take extremely light passes. I thought it was my motor at first. Then I noticed that, as I worked in closer to the center line, there was no bogging down issues at all. So what I concluded was that, with a hard wood such as pecan, working far from the center, if you try to cut too deeply, the tool digs in and acts like a long fulcrum, giving you leverage against the motor and yes, you can bog down the motor. I have to remember this and learn what I can and can't do, and with how much force, I can do with different woods.
> I hope you all like this bowl because, according to my wife, I'll be making more of them in the future.


Thanks for the lesson!
You asked earlier, if my lathe is set up. Short answer; NO! It will be a while, before I can fiqure out exactly where it will find a (semi) permanent location. So, I will need to try to remember all these lessons. I'm willing to bet that I will learn maaaaany a lesson all on my own!!!

Keep up the good work.
I'm enjoying (and learning!) as I follow you on your journey….


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Trying Something Different With The Next Glueup*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog, you know I glued up two bowl blank. I turned one of them yesterday. It was made of sycamore and it was easy to turn. So I thought I had this thing licked. Then again, today was another day.
> The second glueup was of pecan, and it did not turn nearly as easily as the sycamore. I already knew that pecan was a hard wood. I've worked with it often on smaller projects, and flat type wood work. This is the first time though for me to turn a piece this size of dry pecan. Something I figure out very quickly, well two things:
> 1. Sharpen the tools often. This hard of wood dulls them quickly.
> 2. Take tiny passes. Everytime I started getting too frisky with how much material I was taking, the lathe would bog down. At first, I thought I was having motor issues again. I checked everything and the motor was running fine. This stuff just does not like to be man handled. It likes to be cut slow and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this bowl say it is going on a shelf. It is to be inspiration when something new is tried. So in turn, I decided to try something I haven't done while making it. Sure, I could just turn a bowl. I know I can do that now. What would be the fun in that though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone yesterday was concerned because of a photo I'd posted that maybe I was trying to cut too far over my tool rest. I seen the photo was a little deceiving because I snapped it after working on the rim. So I decided to take a photo today and show the tool rest I use when I am working on the inside of bowls. I have two different sizes of these curved rests. I have a buddy that does blacksmithing work though. I have talked with him about making me a couple more rests. I'd like to have a straight rest that sticks out one way from the post, to the right, for working on straight sides. I'd also like a couple more different sized curned rests because I seem to enjoy doing so many different sized things.
> However, the point is, I learned quickly, the hard way, not to work too far over the tool rest. There have been a few times I couldn't help it. When that happens though, I go to a scraper and take my sweet time, and never use a gouge. The one time I had a gouge catch while way out over the rest, I learned real quickly that I was only along for the ride.
> Randy, that's your lesson for the day. Use the proper tool rest for the job being done. Working too far over the rest can get you hurt, or at least scare the bejeebies out of you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is confession time.
> I was sanding the finished bowl and couldn't firgure out what that black dot was in the center of the bottom was. It just wouldn't sand out. I took it off the chuck before I figured out what it was. That "dot", was a tiny hole. I had cut the bottom to flow at a slight decline towards the center, and at the very center, I went just a tad bit too far. I had cut it till there was a tiny hole. That's not good.
> Luckily, the recipient says the bowl is going on a shelf. To my understanding, this one will not be used in the kitchen. So, where I normally leave a recessed tennon on the bottom of my bowls, I plugged this one to cover that tiny hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, this bowl wound up being seven and a half inches across, and four and three quarters inches tall. It is finished with the same butcher block conditioner that I finished the bowl with yesterday.
> Something else you may notice is the pattern. For the glueup, I used some dried pecan that I have. This pecan though is made up of light and dark strips of pecan. I did not glue them that way, but they are the way that I recieved them. When I planed and glued up the disks a few days ago, I turned every other disk to try and scatter the light and dark pieces throughout the piece. I wasn't sure how that was going to look, but I think it turned out real nice. It turned out nice enough in fact, that my wife already says she wants some cereal bowls with similar patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will send a private message to the recipient in a moment. Anyone who has kept up with all this and all that's happened to me recently already knows who it is.
> There it is though. Pecan is a beautiful wood to work with. I have several pieces of furniture in my home that I've made out of this same pecan, because I like it so much. It is hard though.
> I did not realize how easy it is to bog down a three quarter horse motor. With this pecan though, it is quite easy. While working on the outer edges of this bowl, I had to take extremely light passes. I thought it was my motor at first. Then I noticed that, as I worked in closer to the center line, there was no bogging down issues at all. So what I concluded was that, with a hard wood such as pecan, working far from the center, if you try to cut too deeply, the tool digs in and acts like a long fulcrum, giving you leverage against the motor and yes, you can bog down the motor. I have to remember this and learn what I can and can't do, and with how much force, I can do with different woods.
> I hope you all like this bowl because, according to my wife, I'll be making more of them in the future.


Sometimes Randy, the lessons learned best are learned the hard way.
I do hope though, above all, you do remember some of the safety pointers.
We'd hate to see anyone get hurt.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Trying Something Different With The Next Glueup*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog, you know I glued up two bowl blank. I turned one of them yesterday. It was made of sycamore and it was easy to turn. So I thought I had this thing licked. Then again, today was another day.
> The second glueup was of pecan, and it did not turn nearly as easily as the sycamore. I already knew that pecan was a hard wood. I've worked with it often on smaller projects, and flat type wood work. This is the first time though for me to turn a piece this size of dry pecan. Something I figure out very quickly, well two things:
> 1. Sharpen the tools often. This hard of wood dulls them quickly.
> 2. Take tiny passes. Everytime I started getting too frisky with how much material I was taking, the lathe would bog down. At first, I thought I was having motor issues again. I checked everything and the motor was running fine. This stuff just does not like to be man handled. It likes to be cut slow and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipient of this bowl say it is going on a shelf. It is to be inspiration when something new is tried. So in turn, I decided to try something I haven't done while making it. Sure, I could just turn a bowl. I know I can do that now. What would be the fun in that though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone yesterday was concerned because of a photo I'd posted that maybe I was trying to cut too far over my tool rest. I seen the photo was a little deceiving because I snapped it after working on the rim. So I decided to take a photo today and show the tool rest I use when I am working on the inside of bowls. I have two different sizes of these curved rests. I have a buddy that does blacksmithing work though. I have talked with him about making me a couple more rests. I'd like to have a straight rest that sticks out one way from the post, to the right, for working on straight sides. I'd also like a couple more different sized curned rests because I seem to enjoy doing so many different sized things.
> However, the point is, I learned quickly, the hard way, not to work too far over the tool rest. There have been a few times I couldn't help it. When that happens though, I go to a scraper and take my sweet time, and never use a gouge. The one time I had a gouge catch while way out over the rest, I learned real quickly that I was only along for the ride.
> Randy, that's your lesson for the day. Use the proper tool rest for the job being done. Working too far over the rest can get you hurt, or at least scare the bejeebies out of you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it is confession time.
> I was sanding the finished bowl and couldn't firgure out what that black dot was in the center of the bottom was. It just wouldn't sand out. I took it off the chuck before I figured out what it was. That "dot", was a tiny hole. I had cut the bottom to flow at a slight decline towards the center, and at the very center, I went just a tad bit too far. I had cut it till there was a tiny hole. That's not good.
> Luckily, the recipient says the bowl is going on a shelf. To my understanding, this one will not be used in the kitchen. So, where I normally leave a recessed tennon on the bottom of my bowls, I plugged this one to cover that tiny hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, this bowl wound up being seven and a half inches across, and four and three quarters inches tall. It is finished with the same butcher block conditioner that I finished the bowl with yesterday.
> Something else you may notice is the pattern. For the glueup, I used some dried pecan that I have. This pecan though is made up of light and dark strips of pecan. I did not glue them that way, but they are the way that I recieved them. When I planed and glued up the disks a few days ago, I turned every other disk to try and scatter the light and dark pieces throughout the piece. I wasn't sure how that was going to look, but I think it turned out real nice. It turned out nice enough in fact, that my wife already says she wants some cereal bowls with similar patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will send a private message to the recipient in a moment. Anyone who has kept up with all this and all that's happened to me recently already knows who it is.
> There it is though. Pecan is a beautiful wood to work with. I have several pieces of furniture in my home that I've made out of this same pecan, because I like it so much. It is hard though.
> I did not realize how easy it is to bog down a three quarter horse motor. With this pecan though, it is quite easy. While working on the outer edges of this bowl, I had to take extremely light passes. I thought it was my motor at first. Then I noticed that, as I worked in closer to the center line, there was no bogging down issues at all. So what I concluded was that, with a hard wood such as pecan, working far from the center, if you try to cut too deeply, the tool digs in and acts like a long fulcrum, giving you leverage against the motor and yes, you can bog down the motor. I have to remember this and learn what I can and can't do, and with how much force, I can do with different woods.
> I hope you all like this bowl because, according to my wife, I'll be making more of them in the future.


I'm the proud owner of this bowl and have it in our shop as inspiration when I get stuck. If I had problems, I'd just put the thing away for a while (often a *very *long while). William's bowl reminds me of what you can do with determination. Now, I'll think about the problem for a bit and keep going, as long as what I'm doing is as safe as possible.

Here it is in pride of place near my lathe:









Thank you so much William. I hope you're feeling ok.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Why Buy When You Can Make?*

Since I decided I wanted to turn, I've learned how to use a variety of tools. I wouldn't say I'm an expert at any of them, but I'm learning. I'm also learning what I like and what I don't like. For example, I don't like my parting tool. The tool I have works great. I don't like it because it removes too much material. You see, a lot of times I'm already limited on how thick the material is when I start. I don't want to have to account for, or have to remove, as much as my parting tool takes. To me, it's just sort of a waste. 
This I guess wouldn't bother some people, but I am a wood hoarder and want to save those little pieces of my better woods to do other things with. I have seen these thin parting tools in catalogues and online and thought to myself that these would be the way to go. I just had an idea that I'd like them better. There is a problem though. Money is tight. Lately, when I do get the opportunity to spend some money, I prefer to get other things besides tools that I may or may not like. 
Then I seen this video by Captain Eddie. He shows how to make a very similar tool using a reciprocating saw blade. Everyone knows I would always prefer to make my own tools when I can anyway, so I just had to make one of these as soon as I got the chance.








I made mine a tad different than Captain Eddies, but the same principle. I handled the blade part just as he showed in the video. However, I did drill holes through the blade. If you don't have some very good drill bits to cut through a blade like this, he shows in the video how to make it without drilling holes through it. It take good sharp bits, and drilling oil to cut through these type blades without burning your drill bits up. Also, I turned a round handle for mine instead of the style he shows. It all works on the same principle though.
I think it looks good. Some of you may be asking about now though, William, who cares how it looks, does it work good?








It works GREAT! 
This was just a piece of scrap I pulled out of the fire wood pile to test my new tool on. I turned it round. Then, as you can see, I went almost through it in several places, and then completely through it, remounted, and through it again. I was just playing around to make sure it was worth the little bit of work I put into it. Based on the prices I seen for thin parting tools, it was well worth the trouble.
So now I know I like the thin parting tool better than the two other, thicker, parting tools I own. However, why would I buy one? I made one.

If any of you would like to see some of Captain Eddie's videos, here is a link to his YouTube channel. Go check his videos out. He offers a lot of tips, advice, and enough humor thrown in that it's always a pleasure to watch.


----------



## ShaneA

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Why Buy When You Can Make?*
> 
> Since I decided I wanted to turn, I've learned how to use a variety of tools. I wouldn't say I'm an expert at any of them, but I'm learning. I'm also learning what I like and what I don't like. For example, I don't like my parting tool. The tool I have works great. I don't like it because it removes too much material. You see, a lot of times I'm already limited on how thick the material is when I start. I don't want to have to account for, or have to remove, as much as my parting tool takes. To me, it's just sort of a waste.
> This I guess wouldn't bother some people, but I am a wood hoarder and want to save those little pieces of my better woods to do other things with. I have seen these thin parting tools in catalogues and online and thought to myself that these would be the way to go. I just had an idea that I'd like them better. There is a problem though. Money is tight. Lately, when I do get the opportunity to spend some money, I prefer to get other things besides tools that I may or may not like.
> Then I seen this video by Captain Eddie. He shows how to make a very similar tool using a reciprocating saw blade. Everyone knows I would always prefer to make my own tools when I can anyway, so I just had to make one of these as soon as I got the chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made mine a tad different than Captain Eddies, but the same principle. I handled the blade part just as he showed in the video. However, I did drill holes through the blade. If you don't have some very good drill bits to cut through a blade like this, he shows in the video how to make it without drilling holes through it. It take good sharp bits, and drilling oil to cut through these type blades without burning your drill bits up. Also, I turned a round handle for mine instead of the style he shows. It all works on the same principle though.
> I think it looks good. Some of you may be asking about now though, William, who cares how it looks, does it work good?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works GREAT!
> This was just a piece of scrap I pulled out of the fire wood pile to test my new tool on. I turned it round. Then, as you can see, I went almost through it in several places, and then completely through it, remounted, and through it again. I was just playing around to make sure it was worth the little bit of work I put into it. Based on the prices I seen for thin parting tools, it was well worth the trouble.
> So now I know I like the thin parting tool better than the two other, thicker, parting tools I own. However, why would I buy one? I made one.
> 
> If any of you would like to see some of Captain Eddie's videos, here is a link to his YouTube channel. Go check his videos out. He offers a lot of tips, advice, and enough humor thrown in that it's always a pleasure to watch.


Eddie's videos are good. I have watched several of them. Looks like he has the lowest prices on the carbide stuff too. Although, I have yet to try the carbide tools. They do spark my interest.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Why Buy When You Can Make?*
> 
> Since I decided I wanted to turn, I've learned how to use a variety of tools. I wouldn't say I'm an expert at any of them, but I'm learning. I'm also learning what I like and what I don't like. For example, I don't like my parting tool. The tool I have works great. I don't like it because it removes too much material. You see, a lot of times I'm already limited on how thick the material is when I start. I don't want to have to account for, or have to remove, as much as my parting tool takes. To me, it's just sort of a waste.
> This I guess wouldn't bother some people, but I am a wood hoarder and want to save those little pieces of my better woods to do other things with. I have seen these thin parting tools in catalogues and online and thought to myself that these would be the way to go. I just had an idea that I'd like them better. There is a problem though. Money is tight. Lately, when I do get the opportunity to spend some money, I prefer to get other things besides tools that I may or may not like.
> Then I seen this video by Captain Eddie. He shows how to make a very similar tool using a reciprocating saw blade. Everyone knows I would always prefer to make my own tools when I can anyway, so I just had to make one of these as soon as I got the chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made mine a tad different than Captain Eddies, but the same principle. I handled the blade part just as he showed in the video. However, I did drill holes through the blade. If you don't have some very good drill bits to cut through a blade like this, he shows in the video how to make it without drilling holes through it. It take good sharp bits, and drilling oil to cut through these type blades without burning your drill bits up. Also, I turned a round handle for mine instead of the style he shows. It all works on the same principle though.
> I think it looks good. Some of you may be asking about now though, William, who cares how it looks, does it work good?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works GREAT!
> This was just a piece of scrap I pulled out of the fire wood pile to test my new tool on. I turned it round. Then, as you can see, I went almost through it in several places, and then completely through it, remounted, and through it again. I was just playing around to make sure it was worth the little bit of work I put into it. Based on the prices I seen for thin parting tools, it was well worth the trouble.
> So now I know I like the thin parting tool better than the two other, thicker, parting tools I own. However, why would I buy one? I made one.
> 
> If any of you would like to see some of Captain Eddie's videos, here is a link to his YouTube channel. Go check his videos out. He offers a lot of tips, advice, and enough humor thrown in that it's always a pleasure to watch.


I will eventually try carbide, and Capt. Eddie seems the way to go for someone like me. You can buy the cutters from him and he shows you how to make the tools to hold the cutters in his videos. This saves a lot of money over the prices I've seen anywhere else.
I'm especially interested in his "snake" cutting system. If you get a chance, check it out. It can be built out of material from the local hardware store, buy some cutters from Capt. Eddie, and you're ready to go.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Why Buy When You Can Make?*
> 
> Since I decided I wanted to turn, I've learned how to use a variety of tools. I wouldn't say I'm an expert at any of them, but I'm learning. I'm also learning what I like and what I don't like. For example, I don't like my parting tool. The tool I have works great. I don't like it because it removes too much material. You see, a lot of times I'm already limited on how thick the material is when I start. I don't want to have to account for, or have to remove, as much as my parting tool takes. To me, it's just sort of a waste.
> This I guess wouldn't bother some people, but I am a wood hoarder and want to save those little pieces of my better woods to do other things with. I have seen these thin parting tools in catalogues and online and thought to myself that these would be the way to go. I just had an idea that I'd like them better. There is a problem though. Money is tight. Lately, when I do get the opportunity to spend some money, I prefer to get other things besides tools that I may or may not like.
> Then I seen this video by Captain Eddie. He shows how to make a very similar tool using a reciprocating saw blade. Everyone knows I would always prefer to make my own tools when I can anyway, so I just had to make one of these as soon as I got the chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made mine a tad different than Captain Eddies, but the same principle. I handled the blade part just as he showed in the video. However, I did drill holes through the blade. If you don't have some very good drill bits to cut through a blade like this, he shows in the video how to make it without drilling holes through it. It take good sharp bits, and drilling oil to cut through these type blades without burning your drill bits up. Also, I turned a round handle for mine instead of the style he shows. It all works on the same principle though.
> I think it looks good. Some of you may be asking about now though, William, who cares how it looks, does it work good?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works GREAT!
> This was just a piece of scrap I pulled out of the fire wood pile to test my new tool on. I turned it round. Then, as you can see, I went almost through it in several places, and then completely through it, remounted, and through it again. I was just playing around to make sure it was worth the little bit of work I put into it. Based on the prices I seen for thin parting tools, it was well worth the trouble.
> So now I know I like the thin parting tool better than the two other, thicker, parting tools I own. However, why would I buy one? I made one.
> 
> If any of you would like to see some of Captain Eddie's videos, here is a link to his YouTube channel. Go check his videos out. He offers a lot of tips, advice, and enough humor thrown in that it's always a pleasure to watch.


You can go here, about a quarter way down the page is the video about the snake hollowing system. You can buy it from him or make it yourself.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Why Buy When You Can Make?*
> 
> Since I decided I wanted to turn, I've learned how to use a variety of tools. I wouldn't say I'm an expert at any of them, but I'm learning. I'm also learning what I like and what I don't like. For example, I don't like my parting tool. The tool I have works great. I don't like it because it removes too much material. You see, a lot of times I'm already limited on how thick the material is when I start. I don't want to have to account for, or have to remove, as much as my parting tool takes. To me, it's just sort of a waste.
> This I guess wouldn't bother some people, but I am a wood hoarder and want to save those little pieces of my better woods to do other things with. I have seen these thin parting tools in catalogues and online and thought to myself that these would be the way to go. I just had an idea that I'd like them better. There is a problem though. Money is tight. Lately, when I do get the opportunity to spend some money, I prefer to get other things besides tools that I may or may not like.
> Then I seen this video by Captain Eddie. He shows how to make a very similar tool using a reciprocating saw blade. Everyone knows I would always prefer to make my own tools when I can anyway, so I just had to make one of these as soon as I got the chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made mine a tad different than Captain Eddies, but the same principle. I handled the blade part just as he showed in the video. However, I did drill holes through the blade. If you don't have some very good drill bits to cut through a blade like this, he shows in the video how to make it without drilling holes through it. It take good sharp bits, and drilling oil to cut through these type blades without burning your drill bits up. Also, I turned a round handle for mine instead of the style he shows. It all works on the same principle though.
> I think it looks good. Some of you may be asking about now though, William, who cares how it looks, does it work good?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works GREAT!
> This was just a piece of scrap I pulled out of the fire wood pile to test my new tool on. I turned it round. Then, as you can see, I went almost through it in several places, and then completely through it, remounted, and through it again. I was just playing around to make sure it was worth the little bit of work I put into it. Based on the prices I seen for thin parting tools, it was well worth the trouble.
> So now I know I like the thin parting tool better than the two other, thicker, parting tools I own. However, why would I buy one? I made one.
> 
> If any of you would like to see some of Captain Eddie's videos, here is a link to his YouTube channel. Go check his videos out. He offers a lot of tips, advice, and enough humor thrown in that it's always a pleasure to watch.


I went and checked out the "Cap'n Eddie" video links. Great info/ideas and all for FREE. No wonder you like him sooo much!!! He'd rather build than buy also. I'll be checking out more of his videos, for sure!!!

BTW: nice job on your shop made thin parting tool!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Why Buy When You Can Make?*
> 
> Since I decided I wanted to turn, I've learned how to use a variety of tools. I wouldn't say I'm an expert at any of them, but I'm learning. I'm also learning what I like and what I don't like. For example, I don't like my parting tool. The tool I have works great. I don't like it because it removes too much material. You see, a lot of times I'm already limited on how thick the material is when I start. I don't want to have to account for, or have to remove, as much as my parting tool takes. To me, it's just sort of a waste.
> This I guess wouldn't bother some people, but I am a wood hoarder and want to save those little pieces of my better woods to do other things with. I have seen these thin parting tools in catalogues and online and thought to myself that these would be the way to go. I just had an idea that I'd like them better. There is a problem though. Money is tight. Lately, when I do get the opportunity to spend some money, I prefer to get other things besides tools that I may or may not like.
> Then I seen this video by Captain Eddie. He shows how to make a very similar tool using a reciprocating saw blade. Everyone knows I would always prefer to make my own tools when I can anyway, so I just had to make one of these as soon as I got the chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made mine a tad different than Captain Eddies, but the same principle. I handled the blade part just as he showed in the video. However, I did drill holes through the blade. If you don't have some very good drill bits to cut through a blade like this, he shows in the video how to make it without drilling holes through it. It take good sharp bits, and drilling oil to cut through these type blades without burning your drill bits up. Also, I turned a round handle for mine instead of the style he shows. It all works on the same principle though.
> I think it looks good. Some of you may be asking about now though, William, who cares how it looks, does it work good?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works GREAT!
> This was just a piece of scrap I pulled out of the fire wood pile to test my new tool on. I turned it round. Then, as you can see, I went almost through it in several places, and then completely through it, remounted, and through it again. I was just playing around to make sure it was worth the little bit of work I put into it. Based on the prices I seen for thin parting tools, it was well worth the trouble.
> So now I know I like the thin parting tool better than the two other, thicker, parting tools I own. However, why would I buy one? I made one.
> 
> If any of you would like to see some of Captain Eddie's videos, here is a link to his YouTube channel. Go check his videos out. He offers a lot of tips, advice, and enough humor thrown in that it's always a pleasure to watch.


Watch him whenever you get a chance Randy.
Watch enough and you'll see a lot of his videos have entertainment value as well as useful info.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Why Buy When You Can Make?*
> 
> Since I decided I wanted to turn, I've learned how to use a variety of tools. I wouldn't say I'm an expert at any of them, but I'm learning. I'm also learning what I like and what I don't like. For example, I don't like my parting tool. The tool I have works great. I don't like it because it removes too much material. You see, a lot of times I'm already limited on how thick the material is when I start. I don't want to have to account for, or have to remove, as much as my parting tool takes. To me, it's just sort of a waste.
> This I guess wouldn't bother some people, but I am a wood hoarder and want to save those little pieces of my better woods to do other things with. I have seen these thin parting tools in catalogues and online and thought to myself that these would be the way to go. I just had an idea that I'd like them better. There is a problem though. Money is tight. Lately, when I do get the opportunity to spend some money, I prefer to get other things besides tools that I may or may not like.
> Then I seen this video by Captain Eddie. He shows how to make a very similar tool using a reciprocating saw blade. Everyone knows I would always prefer to make my own tools when I can anyway, so I just had to make one of these as soon as I got the chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made mine a tad different than Captain Eddies, but the same principle. I handled the blade part just as he showed in the video. However, I did drill holes through the blade. If you don't have some very good drill bits to cut through a blade like this, he shows in the video how to make it without drilling holes through it. It take good sharp bits, and drilling oil to cut through these type blades without burning your drill bits up. Also, I turned a round handle for mine instead of the style he shows. It all works on the same principle though.
> I think it looks good. Some of you may be asking about now though, William, who cares how it looks, does it work good?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works GREAT!
> This was just a piece of scrap I pulled out of the fire wood pile to test my new tool on. I turned it round. Then, as you can see, I went almost through it in several places, and then completely through it, remounted, and through it again. I was just playing around to make sure it was worth the little bit of work I put into it. Based on the prices I seen for thin parting tools, it was well worth the trouble.
> So now I know I like the thin parting tool better than the two other, thicker, parting tools I own. However, why would I buy one? I made one.
> 
> If any of you would like to see some of Captain Eddie's videos, here is a link to his YouTube channel. Go check his videos out. He offers a lot of tips, advice, and enough humor thrown in that it's always a pleasure to watch.


I really like the Cap'n Videos and I have a few old blades put aside to make one of these tools but have not gotten to it. thanks for the reminder. 
Looks like your turned out well and works great.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Why Buy When You Can Make?*
> 
> Since I decided I wanted to turn, I've learned how to use a variety of tools. I wouldn't say I'm an expert at any of them, but I'm learning. I'm also learning what I like and what I don't like. For example, I don't like my parting tool. The tool I have works great. I don't like it because it removes too much material. You see, a lot of times I'm already limited on how thick the material is when I start. I don't want to have to account for, or have to remove, as much as my parting tool takes. To me, it's just sort of a waste.
> This I guess wouldn't bother some people, but I am a wood hoarder and want to save those little pieces of my better woods to do other things with. I have seen these thin parting tools in catalogues and online and thought to myself that these would be the way to go. I just had an idea that I'd like them better. There is a problem though. Money is tight. Lately, when I do get the opportunity to spend some money, I prefer to get other things besides tools that I may or may not like.
> Then I seen this video by Captain Eddie. He shows how to make a very similar tool using a reciprocating saw blade. Everyone knows I would always prefer to make my own tools when I can anyway, so I just had to make one of these as soon as I got the chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made mine a tad different than Captain Eddies, but the same principle. I handled the blade part just as he showed in the video. However, I did drill holes through the blade. If you don't have some very good drill bits to cut through a blade like this, he shows in the video how to make it without drilling holes through it. It take good sharp bits, and drilling oil to cut through these type blades without burning your drill bits up. Also, I turned a round handle for mine instead of the style he shows. It all works on the same principle though.
> I think it looks good. Some of you may be asking about now though, William, who cares how it looks, does it work good?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works GREAT!
> This was just a piece of scrap I pulled out of the fire wood pile to test my new tool on. I turned it round. Then, as you can see, I went almost through it in several places, and then completely through it, remounted, and through it again. I was just playing around to make sure it was worth the little bit of work I put into it. Based on the prices I seen for thin parting tools, it was well worth the trouble.
> So now I know I like the thin parting tool better than the two other, thicker, parting tools I own. However, why would I buy one? I made one.
> 
> If any of you would like to see some of Captain Eddie's videos, here is a link to his YouTube channel. Go check his videos out. He offers a lot of tips, advice, and enough humor thrown in that it's always a pleasure to watch.


I've used it a few times in actual practice now clieb, and it does work great.
Also, I forgot to take pictures, but today I made Capt's depth gauge (3/8" drill bit in a handle that he drilled to depth of a bowl with) today. It works great as well. I'll try to remember to do a write up on that soon.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*My First Pen From A Kit*

I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses. 
Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year. 
Let's fast forward.








The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on. 
Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.








My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that. 
You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.








This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out. 
Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits. 
I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


----------



## ShaneA

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


Awww yeah! Looking good. I am going to have to jump in on some kits too. They look great. Plus, I bet you could probably finance you pen habit by selling a few here and there to recover the costs.


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


Those look pretty nice, William. You still need to PM me your address so I can send you those pen blanks I have. I'll never use em and it sounds like you really like pen turning.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


Hmmm another addict.. errr I mean Pen turner  
They look really good. Experiment with them the great thing about slimlines is how versatile they are. If you get a chance take a look at Kurt Hertzog's website. His Pen Turning to Pen Making articles contain some really great tips on experimenting with the slimline kits.

I am sure there will be more to come, can't wait to see them.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


Shane, order some right away if you can. I made some out of BIC pens a short while ago. They turned out ok, but these kits just take it to another level. I couldn't afford any at the time. A very generous fellow Lumberjock sent me a gift card for me to purchase these. I am forever in their dept now. I love doing these.

Rich, thank you. I must have missed it. I did not know you wanted my address. I will send a PM as soon as I finish this response.

Clieb, you got the addict part right, about turning in general though. I started out playing around with a lathe a while back and that's about all I've been doing since. Thanks for the link. I will check that out as soon as possible.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


& PROUD you should be!!!


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


With these pen kits….
Are refills readily available from local office supply stores??? I'd hate to give a gift that was difficult to find a refill for.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


hip hip hooray….yes i can see you bubbling over with excitement, waiting for your pen supply's im glad you didn't assault the truck driver, you used your restraint …im proud William….lol…i see you in the back corner of the shop greedily rubbing your hands together, as you mull over the many different pens you will make…lol..enjoy it William..i think i should send you some pen blanks, i have some beautiful wild cherry that would be stunning…what are the measurements for pen blanks…goodnight William, i now have a smile, thinking of you and your run to the truck,...lol..grizz


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


Those both turned out very cool. I like your "fatter" design. Skinny pens don't work well in my size 12 hands. The oak turned out really purty.

A question on the shellac/Blo/alcohol finish: does it dry as fast as shellac? What does the BLO add to the look? How do you apply it? Sorry, that's 3 questions instead of 1.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


Thanks Randy. The pens you "cross" style refills. They are readily available at OfficeMax or OfficeDepot.

Grizz, I can definately use pen blanks. I appreciate all I can get. Pen blanks from the suppliers run usually (from what I've seen) 3/4" x 3/4" x 5". However, for some pens, like these slimlines, as long as I have two similar pieces that are at least 2 1/16" in length, I'm in business. Oh the possibilities. 
I have a couple of different people looking for deer antler for me as well. Yes, I want to turn antlers now. I've also heard of turning bull horns, but I haven't a clue where I can get that cheap.

Andy, I hate thin pens myself. My big hands, couple with arthritis in my fingers, don't lend well to wimpy pens. Besides that, I think I can just add more character to them by avoiding the straight line designs. 
About the finish, in my opinion, it actually dries faster than straighty shellac. As for the BLO, it acts as a lubricant and helps it "flow" into the open pores better. That's what I'm told anyway.
This is basically french polish. At the lathe I use toilet tissue to apply it. You never use a rag at the lathe due to the moveing parts. Anyway, I put on the finish with the pen blanks still mounted on the mandrel.
Useing toilet paper, put a drop of finish on one end of each blank, with the lathe running, slide the tissue down the length of the wood. This spreads the finished nice and even. 
I wait about a minute, flip tissue to dry side, slide back down each piece. 
I repeat that three times. 
Then I add another thin coat. You can see the finish how thin it is, or not. If it's slinging finish off, too thick, if it's leaving dry spots, too thin. All this depends on the speed at which you move your tissue down the wood. 
After applying that lat coat, I turn off the lathe and go have a cup of coffee.
After my coffee break, turn the lathe on high speed, and buff it with a paper towel. The high speed tears the toilet tissue, so I use paper towel.
Then I apply as many coats of wax as I wish.
Oh, I fogot.
I don't do none of this until it is sanded well.
I sand starting with course grit with the lathe running.
Then I cut the lathe off and sand end to end.
Then I move onto the next grit.
I sand, in order of grit,
80, 120, 240, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, and then burnish it on high speed with shavings from the turning. 
Did I miss anything? I hope not.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


By the way Andy, I hope to one day soon start using CA glue for a finish. 
It leaves a harder, more durable finish for pens.
HOWEVER, I'm practicing on scraps as I get a chance. 
I'm not there yet.
I am going to have to order some of the right stuff when I can.
Right now I'm using locally bought super glue and it just isn't turning out right for me like I've read about and seen on videos.
I don't know if it's the glue I'm using or my technique.
I'll get it eventually.
If you've seen pen turners using CA glue, it leaves a great finish, and will outlast the shellac and wax finish I'm using now.


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


William those are really nice pens.
Love your description of the wait for the van, it is a great feeling when it
arrives.
I only discovered after a bit that you can get spare brass tubes. Very handy
if one of the pieces goes wrong, then you don't need a whole kit.
Jamie


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


I can understand your enthusiasm about getting into something new William. Your first pens came out really nice. I'm glad you have found such enjoyable work. I would think you could also sell some of those.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


I did not realize I could get extra tubes Jamie. I'll keep that in mind if I mess up.
I was thinking of that though and wondering what other extra parts I can get. 
The first kit I opened was missing the center ring, the part that goes between the two wood blanks.
I don't think it's worth too much grumbling with the company if that's the only one out of thirty eight that's missing a part, but I thought of adding it to a future order if I can get just that part.
Then again, ya'll know me. I've also thought of making a wooden piece on the lathe to replace the metal ring.

Stefang, I have thought of selling some of these to help finance future kits so I can keep going on it anytime I want to instead of having to wait for funds. The part I am wrestling with now is a price. I am not good at pricing my work. I am open to suggestions on that topic.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


Some nice writing tools. They're fun to make


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


Now that is a pen. Great work William.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


Yes they are Roger. I enjoy doing them very much.

Thanks Dave.


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


William, If you can send me a pen, I'll be able to write you an I.O.U. for it…..


----------



## DamnYankee

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


Got another pen addict!!!

Look great William.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


Beautiful pens, William! I already knew you were hooked when I saw the assortment you made with the store bought pens. By the way, I too know the joy of dancing around the house shouting "It's here! It's here!".

Don't worry about the time for the glue to set. Super glue just takes minutes to set, as does epoxy. The curing can happen while you're admiring your results. I've used glue past its best before date that's come undone and I've just got fresh and did it again; it's a bit tricky lining up the blank to the tube but it's worked every time (so far).

Use thin CA to finish pens; it's like water. Also, save the little bags from the pen parts and use them on a finger to spread it around. I keep a store of "finger puppets" for that reason.

For the missing center ring, you're right - you can make one out of wood. I've never tried so I can't offer any advice on how it's done but I think I saw a video somewhere. The spare tubes are handy; you can get a 10 pack for $2.50 for slimlines at PSI.

About pricing, it depends on a lot of things. You don't want to price too low because it devalues your work and skill and you should never underestimate that. Google to see what others are charging and consider what people in your area would want to pay for a handcrafted pen. I work in Toronto Ontario which is a large metropolitain area and have sold slimlines to co-workers for $25 (which was consider low by a pen turning instructor). Other more expensive kits with more expensive wood are a *lot *more. I'm sure other people would give you better business advice because I just turn stuff for the fun of it.

Congratulations and Well Done!


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


Thanks for the finishing info William. I know it's quick, but that sounds like a LOT of sanding!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


Good morning.
I'm sorry I got down in my back and did not get on line to answer things last night.
Thank you all for the responses.
I'll answer Doe in a seperate reply.

Marty, I'll make you a deal. I will gladly give you a pen and you can pay me by promising you'll get back to Mississippi for another Lumberjock reunion one day. I have three shipments I have to do next month and money is tight though. So you'll have to wait a bit on it. I will get a pen to you though.

Yankee, I am not an addict. If I keep repeating that it makes it true.
I am not an addict.
I am not an addict.
I am not an addict.
I am not an addict.
I am not an addict.

Andy, the sanding, once you get started go very quickly. Once you get past the first few grits, the rest of them only take a second or two each. I think the most important thing is not to skip grits. I have found that if you skip grits, there winds up being scratch marks that the next grit you use won't remove. This in turn, stays right on up though the higher grits. Then, with scratches, you see scratches, no matter how many layers of finish you apply.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *My First Pen From A Kit*
> 
> I was on pens and needles this morning about, well, pens.
> According to the tracking information I checked on this morning, my package with my pen kits were out on delivery. I went to the shop, made coffee, and sat in the door watching for the UPS guy. I don't remember watching for a package like that since I was a kid waiting for the X-Ray glasses I ordered from the back of a Superman comic book. I was nine, don't ask me what I wanted to see with the X-Ray glasses.
> Anyway, I didn't have too bad of a wait. The brown truck, with the guy in the brown uniform, with the package arrived almost nine o'clock on the dot. I bet he thought I was crazy. I snatched the package from his grubby hands and ran as fast as I could back into the shop. Ok, I did not really do that, but it made for a better story. I was anxious to get into the box though. I opened it carefully, in hoarder style, because I save all boxes to wrap Christmas presents later in the year.
> Let's fast forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package was from the wonderful gift I recieved last week of a Penn State gift certificate. I ordered the mandrel and as many pen kits as I could get to get started making pens from kits. I liked the ones I made before out of disassembled store bought pens, but I know these were going to be nicer.
> The mandrel system was sort of a mystery to me because I'd never seen one, much less used one. Once I got it though and read the instruction sheet with it, it wasn't nearly as complicated as I feared. Actually, it's quite an easy piece of equipment to set up and start turning on.
> Now though, I had to wait even longer. I had not planned on something very important. After getting everything, making some pen blanks, and gluing in the tubes, I was at a stand still. I had not taken into account that I had to wait for the glue to dry before I'd be able to do anything with those blanks. So I messed around the shop most of the day waiting on glue to dry. Did ya'll know that waiting on glue to dry is like watching grass grow?
> I was told to let super glue dry for twelve hours to fully cure. I don't know if that is right or not. I do know that by about two this afternoon I couldn't wait any more.
> So, the moment we've all, well I have anyway; the moment we've all been waiting for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first pen from a kit. I made it out of my favorite wood, sapelle. It has copper plated hardware, a beautiful grain pattern, and a dark line just below the center ring that runs almost all the way around it. It is finished with five coats of Shellac thinned down with alcohol and boiled linseed oil. Then it has two coats of Johnsons's Paste Wax on top of that.
> You all know I didn't stop there though. Of course I did not glue up only one set of pen blanks this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is oak. I has the same finish as the first one. It actually looked kind of plain until I put finish on it. The finish darkened some of the grain and really made it pop out.
> Some of you may notice, these are slim line kits. The wooden part is actually supposed to be just straight and slender. I intended to do them that way too. However, as soon as I started turning, I just seen a nicer shape that could be formed and went with it. That made me think about it. It doesn't matter if it shows a straight slender pen on the package. One could play with the shaping of the wood and make any number of different styled pens from the exact same kits.
> I think I'm hooked. I have only done two. They are super easy, but I love it. This may seem like something trivial to some, but I am proud of these first two pens.


Doe, as usual for me, I'm learning a lot as I go.
A figured out the glue only took a few minutes to set yesterday. I decided to give it a try after only about thirty minutes and everything turned out fine.

My first pen yesterday was made without the center ring. I figured out how to do it, and actually like it better than some with the ring. I'll be showing that in the next installment, which I'll be typing up shortly.

I figured the glue I was using may have something to do with my problems with it. I'm using locally store bought, brand name, super glue. It's all I have for now. I have it on my list though for when I get the funds to make another order. I'm hoping I can sell some of these pens to help buy more supplies.

Pricing is always a mystery to me. I am often told how much money I could make with some of my scroll work. Everyone who sees it says it's quality work, yet I can't ever seem to sell any. I do it as a hobby, but I have made too much to keep everything. So I would like to sell some of my work to help pay for the hobby. Mississippi is a poor state though, and not many people around here have money. I think that's an excuse though. I haven't been able to get the right people to see it I think. The few times people with money seen my work, I sold at least one piece with no problems. I think the problem there is my lack of salesmanship. I done mechanic work most of my life, but I've never been a good salesman. 
My thinking on the pens was a $15 price starting point. That is, $15 for a basic slim line pen with local domestic woods. If I make something with exotic wood or higher priced kits, the price would be the same $15, plus the cost of whatever it cost me for material over the price of the basic slimline. I hope that explanation makes sense, and someone would tell me if that' reasonable.

Again Doe, thank you so much for all you have done. None of these would be possible without you.
I will be typing up the next installment in a few minutes with yesterday work. I hope ya'll read it.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*

I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.

I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set. 








The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring. 
I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same. 
This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects. 
I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.








My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time. 
I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo. 
You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it. 
I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.








Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
















The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece. 
It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself. 








I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty. 
I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color. 








After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.

That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them. 
They are easy. 
They keep me busy.
I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
Did I mention they are fun?


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


William you seem to be getting the hang of this pen turning, some beautiful pens ,liked the cedar one ,always thought it would be a hard wood to turn ,but it looks great but that cocobolo is some pretty wood too


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


Thanks Eddie.
I have been meaning to tell you. All the pen turning takes place on the lathe that you gave me.
I have the other lathe set up for larger things like bowls, and all the small stuff, like pens, I do on the Ridgid.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


Hi William. You might try making a beautiful display for your pens that can sit on a store counter and which you can replenish as they are sold, then you just have to find some stores that would like to sell them. You could talk to some business people around who might want to give them out as gifts to their valued customers or even to their employees on special occasions. I'm sure there are lots of other ways to sell them too, but this is just an example of the possibilities.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


These are really nice William, I especially like the ones without the center rings! Pen turning is something I haven't gotten into and do not feel any inclination to do so! Good luck with them.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


In time, I will try these suggestions Mike. I do want to get a good bit made up and have been thinking of making a display for them. Thanks you for the suggestions too.

Bearpie. Thank you. I wasn't planning on getting into pens either. My wife wanted one, so I stumbled blindly into it, not realizing what I was getting myself into.
It just occured to me. My wife is the one who got me into scrolling as well. That woman is something else!


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


William thos pens without the ring look very nice
really shows the grain
Jamie


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


you got that old Ridgid turning some stuff ,happy to see it turning out some builds ,if i can get caught up ,you may try to get some of them over here when i go to the Bonnie and Clydes show ,i almost had some inventory build up but sold it and now my daughter is getting married on the 4 th of april and building a arbor for the wedding so ,i hope to make the Bonnie and Clyde on the 14,15 16 th april if i can get built back up on stuff ,mike may be on to something there


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


I REALLY like the ringless pen. I'm not a fan of a thick pen, as I prefer thinner pens. I also am not a fan of the thin ring on a thick pen, so the ringless pen is my favorite!!!

Do the rings come in a larger diameter???

Great looking pens & great info for a "future" turning newbie!!!


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


Nice looking pens. Do you have any box elder left with the red streaks in it? If not, I'll see if I have any more that I can send ya…..


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


Looking good there William…...the ringless design is cool…..they're all cool…...I feel sorry for the wood scraps in your shop…..it seems like it's just a matter of time now before they get their "turn"........


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


I really like the ringless ones!

As for birdseye maple, my husband made a 50 cal pen and a chunk came off of it. He used the big parting tool to get down to the tube and added a contrasting wood to replace the ugly spot that was at the writing end. It looked like it was on purpose instead of an accident. I can't remember the original wood (maybe mahogany), but the added bit was ebony. How about trying a bit of leftover cocobolo if you have it? The stripe of pecan would also be a nice contrast to the dotty-ness of the maple.

Do you know what the wood is that Jeff sent you? It's really beautiful.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


Thank you *Jamie*.

*Eddie*, I have that old Ridgid churning out projects, as you can see. The pen mandrel pretty much stays housed on it now.

*Randy*, it looks like a lot of people like the ringless ones. If those start to sell, they may just become my favorite as well.

*Marty*, I'm afraid that the red streaked wood was the first I used for various things. It was the first to go and long gone now.

*Jeff*, no wood is safe now. I've even been thinking of ways to use any and all wood. Wait until today's blog entry. I had a piece of walnut that was not long enough or long enough because it was cut on an angle. Wait until you see what I done with it. It is nice. I've considered gluing up material too. Before long I may be making a sawdust pen.

*Doe*, the wood Jeff sent was birdseye maple. The wood Marty sent was box elder. I figured you recognized the maple, so which one are you asking about, the one with nice figure? Or the light colored wood that I added burn lines to?
I will keep that in mind about parting off the damaged spot and using a contrasting wood. I used those tubes today though. Wait until I type up today's blog. I think you'll like how I handled that problem as well.

Thank you all. I have been wanting to glue up some bowl blanks for two days now and just haven't gotten around to it. I've been having too much fun with pens. Be sure to catch the next installment. I am pleasantly surprised with today's results.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


Add my vote for the "ringless" style. It looks a lot better than the ring in the middle style to my eye. The walnut and birdseye are my favorites.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


Thanks Andy. 
If you like the birdseye, you have to go see what I done with it today.
If you're in a hurry, it's the last photo on the blog entry.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


I can see you're havin a gr8 time with your lathe. Keep on spinnin


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


Thanks Roger. 
This turning thing has turned into quite a turn.
That was lame.
But, I've been having so much fun on the lathe that I'm having a hard time getting away from it and doing anything else.


----------



## JimmyT

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


I really like working with cocobolo, too, with a couple of caveats: 1) Cocobolo is in the rosewood family and is somewhat toxic. Make sure you wear a dust mask when sanding and protect your skin from the sawdust. I get a nasty rash *every time* I work with the stuff. 2) I think cocobolo darkens a lot when exposed to UV light or handling (I don't know which). What starts out looking like a terrific pen darkens so much you can't distinguish the grain any more. 
I also like to make of ringless pens, especially on woods with vivid grain patterns. I really like how, if you're careful, you can almost get a perfect match of the grain where the two halves meet. On most of my ringless pens I'll cut a groove or 2 in the pen top near where the ring would've been. I'll drag some steel wire in the groove to turn it black.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solutions, And a Couple Of New Mistakes*
> 
> I am a day late posting this. I got down in my back yesterday evening. Rain was coming in this morning. Changes in weather effect my back greatly. Anyway, I'll be typing this up as if it was last night.
> 
> I jumped right into the fray of things today with preparing multiple blanks before doing anything else. I wanted to turn today without having to stop, cut, drill, and wait for glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen of today, I made one of the wood blanks longer by the length of the width of the center ring. Does that make sense? Anyway, I done so in an attempt to eliminate the center ring because, you may remember me saying, one of my kits was missing that ring.
> I glued the tube in all the way to one end on the longer blank. The twist mechanism in the writing end of the pen sticks out plenty enough to still seat into the longer blank with the space left without the tube. If you think about if, of course it will. It is only going the same distance to get to the tube as if you had a center ring on it anyway. So it works out the same.
> This pen is walnut. It was made from a piece from my scrap ben. That, by the way is the one problem I see with turning pens. I was already a wood hoarder. Now I see even the scrap pieces as potential projects.
> I almost messed this pen up. While the glue was setting on the blanks, I used a scrap piece of wood and practiced more trying to perfect the CA glue finish technique. It turned out wonderfully on the scrap wood. So I tried it on this walnut. It turned out looking like crap. I don't know what went wrong. I have been told now that I need water thin glue for the finish. I only have locally bought Super Glue (brand name) at the moment. So for now, I'll stick with my shellac based finish until I can get some thinner glue to try again.
> Anyway, I took a long coffee break while waiting for that glue to fully cure so I could sand it back off the walnut. That stuff does not like to be sanded off. However, I was happy with this pen and did not want to lose the blanks or the tubes. I think it turned out extremely nice though without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next pen, and now my new favorite wood, is cocobolo. This wood was from the free blanks that was sent with my pen kit order. The blanks looked beautiful in their own right. When turned though, it looks different, and completely amazing. This wood has presented me with a new issue. Now I want to try any wood I can get my hands on. If and when I can sell some of my pens, I definately want to try a few new (to me) exotic blanks from time to time.
> I have seen some beautiful wood before, but this just took my breath away. No, not literally. I had done some reading up on it already, but in case anyone else hasn't, use respiratory protection when turning or working with cocobolo.
> You may also notice that I like the walnut pen so much without the center ring that I also turned this one without it.
> I still have nine more cocobolo blanks. I can't wait to see what beautiful grain each of them presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then my first mistake for the day. This was, I repeat WAS, birdseye maple. I stopped as I was getting near the end of the turning and grabbed my newly sharpened detail gouge. This was a mistake. I learned an important lesson. If you sharpen your tool, start using it before being almost finished. That way, you get a feel for the cut before getting too close to the tube.
> With the tool being so sharp, and my not having that feel for the newly sharpened tool just yet, I sliced off too quickly, got a tad too close to the tube insert on the end. It may be a little hard to see in this photo, but if I had put this pen together, that missing chip of wood would have stuck out like sore thumb.
> So I set this aside. I had a thought though. I may be able to turn the wood completely off the tube and reuse the tubes. I could also order more tubes and not mess with it. I don't know if it's even worth messing with. I'm going to give it a try anyway though when I get a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen is cedar and the next one is pecan. There is a reason these are pictured together. Let me tell you what happened.
> Somehow my blanks got mixed up on the table. I was halfway through turning a pen when I realized, the front piece was cedar and the back piece was pecan. It was too late to do anything about it though. So I just made another turning, with the front piece pecan and the back piece cedar, and then assembled both pens with the right blanks matching each other.
> The pecan done just as expected, but I learned yet another lesson with the cedar. Cedar is an extremely soft wood. Someone with long fingernails could probably carved cedar with their fingernails. I learned that, when working with very soft woods, leave your turned blank more proud than normal of your bushing, and then sand down to final size. I have been doing this anyway, but I will in the future do it more so with the cedar. It just so happens that the cedar sands SO fast, that I was removing too much material and, if I had went all the way through all the grits, it would have been smaller than the hardware that went on the pen. So, to keep it to size, I wound up skipping every other grit. This left tiny scratches in the finished piece.
> It still looked nice, but I could never attempt to sell something like this with visible scratches in the finish. All is well though. You see, cedar is my wife's favorite wood. So she was all too happy to take it home and keep it for herself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the next pen out of box elder. This wood was sent to me some time ago by a friend and fellow Lumberjock, Marty.
> I was interested in how it would look. Well, there was but one way to find out. This is a beautiful wood for flat work. For a pen, not so much. It is pretty, but kind of plain looking. So I edded some burned in lines to it to give it some kind of color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the failure with the maple earlier in the day, I glued up another blank with it. I just had to see what this beautiful wood was going to look like as a pen. It was absolutely stunning. As a matter of fact, after seeing it, it kind of made me sad that I messed up the first attempt at it. This is such a beautiful wood. However, I only have enough scraps of it to make a couple more pens from it before it's all gone.
> This wood came from another friend, and also a Lumberjock, Jeff.
> 
> That's it. These pens are turning out to be the perfect project for me. Now if only I can figure out how to sell them so I can keep doing them.
> They are easy.
> They keep me busy.
> I can do them standing or sitting so they don't hurt my back much.
> There are so many ways to modify, and do them differently.
> You can use some of the tiniest scraps to make them. I've even been thinking of gluing up some even smaller scraps of different colors.
> They are beautiful projects that make perfect gifts.
> Did I mention they are fun?


Jimmy, I do wear a mask when working with cocobolo. It hasn't caused me skin problems though. I worked for years as a mechanic. I've had so many chemicals on my skin over the years that my skin now is like cowhide. I have found very little that bothers it. I am sensitive to some respiratory triggers though.
I know how to make burn lines on my work but have not put any near where the ring would be. I'll have to try that one day and see how I like it. I keep guitar strings for my burn lines. They work great. One of my sons is learning to play and when he breaks a string, he brings it to me.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Learning To Adapt*

I am always trying to think of little lessons to give out as I learn all of this. Today, I want to share what I believe to be the most important lesson I've learned about wood turning. Adapt. If something goes wrong, set it aside and think on it a while. Then adapt it to do something different. If you're wondering what made me think that one up, read on about today's adventures.








First up today was a piece of bloodwood. I think this is a beautiful wood. I had a tiny piece of scrap of it. It is the hard wood that was given to me to use as guide blocks on my shop built band saw. This is the edge of the board that I sat aside. It was such a pretty wood that, even though the piece was small, I could not bring myself to throw it out. I knew I'd get to use it one day.
I was sweating bullet though after yesterday's mess up though. I only had enough bloodwood for this pen and maybe one more. So a failure here would have been very disheartening to me. As you can see though, all went well.








In this photo, the piece of wood on the right, is my second pen, and first failure of the day. On the left is the piece of wood off of the failure from yesterday. In the middle is the four tubes from the two pens that were messed up on. I put the damaged pens back on the mandrell, sharpened my smallest skew up, and sliced the wood off the tubes. I went slow and careful, and now had four tubes that would have otherwise been useless. Then I sat all this on the bench to consider while I moved on. You'll have to read on to find out the destiny of these, now salvaged, tubes.








Next up was another piece of cocobolo. I love this wood so much that I'm tempted to take the rest of the ten pieces I started with and just turn all of them. I'm trying to stretch them out though so I can think of new ways to use them as I go. Since I turned one yesterday with no center band, I looked at the satin gold kit today and thought it would look good with this wood with the band. 








At this point I was starting to get quite a few pens piled up on my bench. I was looking through pen kits trying to decide what to use next when I almost bumped one off the side of the bench. I didn't wish for any of them to hit the concrete floor in my shop. So I figured it was time I stopped what I was doing and find a better way of keeping up with them. Mike, someone who has been very helpful to me, suggested that I build a display stand for my pens. This is what I came up with on the spur of the moment. With some more thought, I may come up with something better at a later date. For now though, this keeps them safe and displays them nicely for anyone who comes to my shop. This now sits in my front room, where all my finished work is, to display the pens. They are no longer sitting on my bench in the shop waiting to be damaged.

.

Now, remember those salvaged pen tubes?
I'd been thinking about those tubes ever since I retrieved them out of the messed up pen blanks. Should I just redo what I'd originally started to do with them? Should I play it safe with them since they were to be reused and do something extremely simple? Neither of these options appealed to me. I now had two sets of pen tubes that would have otherwise went in the garbage. This was the perfect opportunity to try aq couple of ideas I had been thinking about. 








This is a walnut pen. It is hard for you to see in the photo probably, but the grain does not run the length of the pen. It runs more of a diagonal, at an angle. The reason for this was to see if I really could use an odd scrap I had of walnut to make a pen. 
This scrap was cut at an odd angle for a table top pattern I made long time ago. It's another one of those pieces I just couldn't throw away. The wood itself came from a tree that was taken down by a tornado in a friend's yard about ten years ago. He had it milled into lumber, stacked and stickered out behind his shop. Then he barely used any of it. About ninety percent of the wood went to waste due to rot and beetles. This is one of the few pieces that survived. 
The point was that I realized something I had been wondering. No, I was not limited to wood of a certain length, running with the grain. As long as I could get blanks of a certain size, no matter how the grain run, could I use it? Well let's see.
That brings me to the last pen of today.








If you seen the birdseye maple pen from yesterday, this is a piece of scrap off the exact same piece of wood. It was wide, but not nearly long enough for regular pen blanks. So I had the idea of cutting it the exact opposite of a normal pen blank. The grain ran across the blank instead of the length of it. I absolutely love how it turned out and am anxious to try this technique with other woods just to see what I get.
I had to rethink this one as I was doing it though. First of all, I cut the blanks longer than needed. I guess you could say wider than needed depending how you look at it since the grain is running sideways instead of longways. I hope you understand what I'm saying. 
Anyway, I done this because I knew I was going to have chip out problems when I drilled the blank. I always have at least a tiny bit of chip out when drilling this direction in a hard wood, so I wasn't takingt chances. Remember I am almost out of this beautiful wood. This way, after drilling the blank, and I did have a tiny bit of chipout as expected, I was able to then go to the table saw and trim that chip out right off. This left me a perfect pen blank, with the grain running across.
Next, for the turning. I intentionally made these blanks one inch by one inch. I done so because I wanted extra playing room for me to see just how it was going to turn. As I expected, it cut very rough because I was now cutting end grain on two sides of the pen blank. Remember though that I learned a lot about grind angles and tool presentation on end grain when I was learning to turn bowl? I used my smallest bowl gouge and adjusted my tool rest and was able to work these blanks just as well as if the grain was running the length.

So now I know. I will probably still sweat bullets when I'm working with something I am extremely limited on, like the birdseye maple, blood wood, or some other medium I may aquire. From now on though, I don't think I'll be quite as nervous about messing up tubes by not turning a blank correctly. I learned today that with a little bit of time, they are easily salvaged. 
In also learned a little something about wood choices. Now, I am no longer limited by wood length and width. I can go the other way, or diaganally if needed. 
Also, I've got other ideas. The pen I cut with the walnut running at an angle? Since reading a comment from Doe on the previous post, I thought about cutting contrasting woods at angles and gluing them up into blanks. The possibilities are endless. Pretty soon I'll figure out a way to take my lathe shavings and make blanks.

That last line was a joke by the way. I don't think I will get that desperate. If I thought I needed to waste that much glue to use shavings, I think I'd come out cheaper just buying blanks.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Learning To Adapt*
> 
> I am always trying to think of little lessons to give out as I learn all of this. Today, I want to share what I believe to be the most important lesson I've learned about wood turning. Adapt. If something goes wrong, set it aside and think on it a while. Then adapt it to do something different. If you're wondering what made me think that one up, read on about today's adventures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First up today was a piece of bloodwood. I think this is a beautiful wood. I had a tiny piece of scrap of it. It is the hard wood that was given to me to use as guide blocks on my shop built band saw. This is the edge of the board that I sat aside. It was such a pretty wood that, even though the piece was small, I could not bring myself to throw it out. I knew I'd get to use it one day.
> I was sweating bullet though after yesterday's mess up though. I only had enough bloodwood for this pen and maybe one more. So a failure here would have been very disheartening to me. As you can see though, all went well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, the piece of wood on the right, is my second pen, and first failure of the day. On the left is the piece of wood off of the failure from yesterday. In the middle is the four tubes from the two pens that were messed up on. I put the damaged pens back on the mandrell, sharpened my smallest skew up, and sliced the wood off the tubes. I went slow and careful, and now had four tubes that would have otherwise been useless. Then I sat all this on the bench to consider while I moved on. You'll have to read on to find out the destiny of these, now salvaged, tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was another piece of cocobolo. I love this wood so much that I'm tempted to take the rest of the ten pieces I started with and just turn all of them. I'm trying to stretch them out though so I can think of new ways to use them as I go. Since I turned one yesterday with no center band, I looked at the satin gold kit today and thought it would look good with this wood with the band.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I was starting to get quite a few pens piled up on my bench. I was looking through pen kits trying to decide what to use next when I almost bumped one off the side of the bench. I didn't wish for any of them to hit the concrete floor in my shop. So I figured it was time I stopped what I was doing and find a better way of keeping up with them. Mike, someone who has been very helpful to me, suggested that I build a display stand for my pens. This is what I came up with on the spur of the moment. With some more thought, I may come up with something better at a later date. For now though, this keeps them safe and displays them nicely for anyone who comes to my shop. This now sits in my front room, where all my finished work is, to display the pens. They are no longer sitting on my bench in the shop waiting to be damaged.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, remember those salvaged pen tubes?
> I'd been thinking about those tubes ever since I retrieved them out of the messed up pen blanks. Should I just redo what I'd originally started to do with them? Should I play it safe with them since they were to be reused and do something extremely simple? Neither of these options appealed to me. I now had two sets of pen tubes that would have otherwise went in the garbage. This was the perfect opportunity to try aq couple of ideas I had been thinking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a walnut pen. It is hard for you to see in the photo probably, but the grain does not run the length of the pen. It runs more of a diagonal, at an angle. The reason for this was to see if I really could use an odd scrap I had of walnut to make a pen.
> This scrap was cut at an odd angle for a table top pattern I made long time ago. It's another one of those pieces I just couldn't throw away. The wood itself came from a tree that was taken down by a tornado in a friend's yard about ten years ago. He had it milled into lumber, stacked and stickered out behind his shop. Then he barely used any of it. About ninety percent of the wood went to waste due to rot and beetles. This is one of the few pieces that survived.
> The point was that I realized something I had been wondering. No, I was not limited to wood of a certain length, running with the grain. As long as I could get blanks of a certain size, no matter how the grain run, could I use it? Well let's see.
> That brings me to the last pen of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you seen the birdseye maple pen from yesterday, this is a piece of scrap off the exact same piece of wood. It was wide, but not nearly long enough for regular pen blanks. So I had the idea of cutting it the exact opposite of a normal pen blank. The grain ran across the blank instead of the length of it. I absolutely love how it turned out and am anxious to try this technique with other woods just to see what I get.
> I had to rethink this one as I was doing it though. First of all, I cut the blanks longer than needed. I guess you could say wider than needed depending how you look at it since the grain is running sideways instead of longways. I hope you understand what I'm saying.
> Anyway, I done this because I knew I was going to have chip out problems when I drilled the blank. I always have at least a tiny bit of chip out when drilling this direction in a hard wood, so I wasn't takingt chances. Remember I am almost out of this beautiful wood. This way, after drilling the blank, and I did have a tiny bit of chipout as expected, I was able to then go to the table saw and trim that chip out right off. This left me a perfect pen blank, with the grain running across.
> Next, for the turning. I intentionally made these blanks one inch by one inch. I done so because I wanted extra playing room for me to see just how it was going to turn. As I expected, it cut very rough because I was now cutting end grain on two sides of the pen blank. Remember though that I learned a lot about grind angles and tool presentation on end grain when I was learning to turn bowl? I used my smallest bowl gouge and adjusted my tool rest and was able to work these blanks just as well as if the grain was running the length.
> 
> So now I know. I will probably still sweat bullets when I'm working with something I am extremely limited on, like the birdseye maple, blood wood, or some other medium I may aquire. From now on though, I don't think I'll be quite as nervous about messing up tubes by not turning a blank correctly. I learned today that with a little bit of time, they are easily salvaged.
> In also learned a little something about wood choices. Now, I am no longer limited by wood length and width. I can go the other way, or diaganally if needed.
> Also, I've got other ideas. The pen I cut with the walnut running at an angle? Since reading a comment from Doe on the previous post, I thought about cutting contrasting woods at angles and gluing them up into blanks. The possibilities are endless. Pretty soon I'll figure out a way to take my lathe shavings and make blanks.
> 
> That last line was a joke by the way. I don't think I will get that desperate. If I thought I needed to waste that much glue to use shavings, I think I'd come out cheaper just buying blanks.


Good save!!!

For what it's worth, i suggest a stepped or tiered display, thereby making all pens more visible. Just a thought.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Learning To Adapt*
> 
> I am always trying to think of little lessons to give out as I learn all of this. Today, I want to share what I believe to be the most important lesson I've learned about wood turning. Adapt. If something goes wrong, set it aside and think on it a while. Then adapt it to do something different. If you're wondering what made me think that one up, read on about today's adventures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First up today was a piece of bloodwood. I think this is a beautiful wood. I had a tiny piece of scrap of it. It is the hard wood that was given to me to use as guide blocks on my shop built band saw. This is the edge of the board that I sat aside. It was such a pretty wood that, even though the piece was small, I could not bring myself to throw it out. I knew I'd get to use it one day.
> I was sweating bullet though after yesterday's mess up though. I only had enough bloodwood for this pen and maybe one more. So a failure here would have been very disheartening to me. As you can see though, all went well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, the piece of wood on the right, is my second pen, and first failure of the day. On the left is the piece of wood off of the failure from yesterday. In the middle is the four tubes from the two pens that were messed up on. I put the damaged pens back on the mandrell, sharpened my smallest skew up, and sliced the wood off the tubes. I went slow and careful, and now had four tubes that would have otherwise been useless. Then I sat all this on the bench to consider while I moved on. You'll have to read on to find out the destiny of these, now salvaged, tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was another piece of cocobolo. I love this wood so much that I'm tempted to take the rest of the ten pieces I started with and just turn all of them. I'm trying to stretch them out though so I can think of new ways to use them as I go. Since I turned one yesterday with no center band, I looked at the satin gold kit today and thought it would look good with this wood with the band.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I was starting to get quite a few pens piled up on my bench. I was looking through pen kits trying to decide what to use next when I almost bumped one off the side of the bench. I didn't wish for any of them to hit the concrete floor in my shop. So I figured it was time I stopped what I was doing and find a better way of keeping up with them. Mike, someone who has been very helpful to me, suggested that I build a display stand for my pens. This is what I came up with on the spur of the moment. With some more thought, I may come up with something better at a later date. For now though, this keeps them safe and displays them nicely for anyone who comes to my shop. This now sits in my front room, where all my finished work is, to display the pens. They are no longer sitting on my bench in the shop waiting to be damaged.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, remember those salvaged pen tubes?
> I'd been thinking about those tubes ever since I retrieved them out of the messed up pen blanks. Should I just redo what I'd originally started to do with them? Should I play it safe with them since they were to be reused and do something extremely simple? Neither of these options appealed to me. I now had two sets of pen tubes that would have otherwise went in the garbage. This was the perfect opportunity to try aq couple of ideas I had been thinking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a walnut pen. It is hard for you to see in the photo probably, but the grain does not run the length of the pen. It runs more of a diagonal, at an angle. The reason for this was to see if I really could use an odd scrap I had of walnut to make a pen.
> This scrap was cut at an odd angle for a table top pattern I made long time ago. It's another one of those pieces I just couldn't throw away. The wood itself came from a tree that was taken down by a tornado in a friend's yard about ten years ago. He had it milled into lumber, stacked and stickered out behind his shop. Then he barely used any of it. About ninety percent of the wood went to waste due to rot and beetles. This is one of the few pieces that survived.
> The point was that I realized something I had been wondering. No, I was not limited to wood of a certain length, running with the grain. As long as I could get blanks of a certain size, no matter how the grain run, could I use it? Well let's see.
> That brings me to the last pen of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you seen the birdseye maple pen from yesterday, this is a piece of scrap off the exact same piece of wood. It was wide, but not nearly long enough for regular pen blanks. So I had the idea of cutting it the exact opposite of a normal pen blank. The grain ran across the blank instead of the length of it. I absolutely love how it turned out and am anxious to try this technique with other woods just to see what I get.
> I had to rethink this one as I was doing it though. First of all, I cut the blanks longer than needed. I guess you could say wider than needed depending how you look at it since the grain is running sideways instead of longways. I hope you understand what I'm saying.
> Anyway, I done this because I knew I was going to have chip out problems when I drilled the blank. I always have at least a tiny bit of chip out when drilling this direction in a hard wood, so I wasn't takingt chances. Remember I am almost out of this beautiful wood. This way, after drilling the blank, and I did have a tiny bit of chipout as expected, I was able to then go to the table saw and trim that chip out right off. This left me a perfect pen blank, with the grain running across.
> Next, for the turning. I intentionally made these blanks one inch by one inch. I done so because I wanted extra playing room for me to see just how it was going to turn. As I expected, it cut very rough because I was now cutting end grain on two sides of the pen blank. Remember though that I learned a lot about grind angles and tool presentation on end grain when I was learning to turn bowl? I used my smallest bowl gouge and adjusted my tool rest and was able to work these blanks just as well as if the grain was running the length.
> 
> So now I know. I will probably still sweat bullets when I'm working with something I am extremely limited on, like the birdseye maple, blood wood, or some other medium I may aquire. From now on though, I don't think I'll be quite as nervous about messing up tubes by not turning a blank correctly. I learned today that with a little bit of time, they are easily salvaged.
> In also learned a little something about wood choices. Now, I am no longer limited by wood length and width. I can go the other way, or diaganally if needed.
> Also, I've got other ideas. The pen I cut with the walnut running at an angle? Since reading a comment from Doe on the previous post, I thought about cutting contrasting woods at angles and gluing them up into blanks. The possibilities are endless. Pretty soon I'll figure out a way to take my lathe shavings and make blanks.
> 
> That last line was a joke by the way. I don't think I will get that desperate. If I thought I needed to waste that much glue to use shavings, I think I'd come out cheaper just buying blanks.


That is SORT of the idea I had here Randy, but it didn't turn out quite like I wanted.
If you notice, each of the three rows of holes are offset to the left by three eighths of an inch.
Instead of making them more visible though, I think it just puts too much in the line of site, and makes them look jumbled together.
My next disply will be three different heights of display, as in like a set of stairs. I think that's what you're talking about.


----------



## nancyann

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Learning To Adapt*
> 
> I am always trying to think of little lessons to give out as I learn all of this. Today, I want to share what I believe to be the most important lesson I've learned about wood turning. Adapt. If something goes wrong, set it aside and think on it a while. Then adapt it to do something different. If you're wondering what made me think that one up, read on about today's adventures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First up today was a piece of bloodwood. I think this is a beautiful wood. I had a tiny piece of scrap of it. It is the hard wood that was given to me to use as guide blocks on my shop built band saw. This is the edge of the board that I sat aside. It was such a pretty wood that, even though the piece was small, I could not bring myself to throw it out. I knew I'd get to use it one day.
> I was sweating bullet though after yesterday's mess up though. I only had enough bloodwood for this pen and maybe one more. So a failure here would have been very disheartening to me. As you can see though, all went well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, the piece of wood on the right, is my second pen, and first failure of the day. On the left is the piece of wood off of the failure from yesterday. In the middle is the four tubes from the two pens that were messed up on. I put the damaged pens back on the mandrell, sharpened my smallest skew up, and sliced the wood off the tubes. I went slow and careful, and now had four tubes that would have otherwise been useless. Then I sat all this on the bench to consider while I moved on. You'll have to read on to find out the destiny of these, now salvaged, tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was another piece of cocobolo. I love this wood so much that I'm tempted to take the rest of the ten pieces I started with and just turn all of them. I'm trying to stretch them out though so I can think of new ways to use them as I go. Since I turned one yesterday with no center band, I looked at the satin gold kit today and thought it would look good with this wood with the band.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I was starting to get quite a few pens piled up on my bench. I was looking through pen kits trying to decide what to use next when I almost bumped one off the side of the bench. I didn't wish for any of them to hit the concrete floor in my shop. So I figured it was time I stopped what I was doing and find a better way of keeping up with them. Mike, someone who has been very helpful to me, suggested that I build a display stand for my pens. This is what I came up with on the spur of the moment. With some more thought, I may come up with something better at a later date. For now though, this keeps them safe and displays them nicely for anyone who comes to my shop. This now sits in my front room, where all my finished work is, to display the pens. They are no longer sitting on my bench in the shop waiting to be damaged.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, remember those salvaged pen tubes?
> I'd been thinking about those tubes ever since I retrieved them out of the messed up pen blanks. Should I just redo what I'd originally started to do with them? Should I play it safe with them since they were to be reused and do something extremely simple? Neither of these options appealed to me. I now had two sets of pen tubes that would have otherwise went in the garbage. This was the perfect opportunity to try aq couple of ideas I had been thinking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a walnut pen. It is hard for you to see in the photo probably, but the grain does not run the length of the pen. It runs more of a diagonal, at an angle. The reason for this was to see if I really could use an odd scrap I had of walnut to make a pen.
> This scrap was cut at an odd angle for a table top pattern I made long time ago. It's another one of those pieces I just couldn't throw away. The wood itself came from a tree that was taken down by a tornado in a friend's yard about ten years ago. He had it milled into lumber, stacked and stickered out behind his shop. Then he barely used any of it. About ninety percent of the wood went to waste due to rot and beetles. This is one of the few pieces that survived.
> The point was that I realized something I had been wondering. No, I was not limited to wood of a certain length, running with the grain. As long as I could get blanks of a certain size, no matter how the grain run, could I use it? Well let's see.
> That brings me to the last pen of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you seen the birdseye maple pen from yesterday, this is a piece of scrap off the exact same piece of wood. It was wide, but not nearly long enough for regular pen blanks. So I had the idea of cutting it the exact opposite of a normal pen blank. The grain ran across the blank instead of the length of it. I absolutely love how it turned out and am anxious to try this technique with other woods just to see what I get.
> I had to rethink this one as I was doing it though. First of all, I cut the blanks longer than needed. I guess you could say wider than needed depending how you look at it since the grain is running sideways instead of longways. I hope you understand what I'm saying.
> Anyway, I done this because I knew I was going to have chip out problems when I drilled the blank. I always have at least a tiny bit of chip out when drilling this direction in a hard wood, so I wasn't takingt chances. Remember I am almost out of this beautiful wood. This way, after drilling the blank, and I did have a tiny bit of chipout as expected, I was able to then go to the table saw and trim that chip out right off. This left me a perfect pen blank, with the grain running across.
> Next, for the turning. I intentionally made these blanks one inch by one inch. I done so because I wanted extra playing room for me to see just how it was going to turn. As I expected, it cut very rough because I was now cutting end grain on two sides of the pen blank. Remember though that I learned a lot about grind angles and tool presentation on end grain when I was learning to turn bowl? I used my smallest bowl gouge and adjusted my tool rest and was able to work these blanks just as well as if the grain was running the length.
> 
> So now I know. I will probably still sweat bullets when I'm working with something I am extremely limited on, like the birdseye maple, blood wood, or some other medium I may aquire. From now on though, I don't think I'll be quite as nervous about messing up tubes by not turning a blank correctly. I learned today that with a little bit of time, they are easily salvaged.
> In also learned a little something about wood choices. Now, I am no longer limited by wood length and width. I can go the other way, or diaganally if needed.
> Also, I've got other ideas. The pen I cut with the walnut running at an angle? Since reading a comment from Doe on the previous post, I thought about cutting contrasting woods at angles and gluing them up into blanks. The possibilities are endless. Pretty soon I'll figure out a way to take my lathe shavings and make blanks.
> 
> That last line was a joke by the way. I don't think I will get that desperate. If I thought I needed to waste that much glue to use shavings, I think I'd come out cheaper just buying blanks.


The pens are very professional, just love them. I have never wood turned, but love the effects from it. You do beautiful work.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Learning To Adapt*
> 
> I am always trying to think of little lessons to give out as I learn all of this. Today, I want to share what I believe to be the most important lesson I've learned about wood turning. Adapt. If something goes wrong, set it aside and think on it a while. Then adapt it to do something different. If you're wondering what made me think that one up, read on about today's adventures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First up today was a piece of bloodwood. I think this is a beautiful wood. I had a tiny piece of scrap of it. It is the hard wood that was given to me to use as guide blocks on my shop built band saw. This is the edge of the board that I sat aside. It was such a pretty wood that, even though the piece was small, I could not bring myself to throw it out. I knew I'd get to use it one day.
> I was sweating bullet though after yesterday's mess up though. I only had enough bloodwood for this pen and maybe one more. So a failure here would have been very disheartening to me. As you can see though, all went well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, the piece of wood on the right, is my second pen, and first failure of the day. On the left is the piece of wood off of the failure from yesterday. In the middle is the four tubes from the two pens that were messed up on. I put the damaged pens back on the mandrell, sharpened my smallest skew up, and sliced the wood off the tubes. I went slow and careful, and now had four tubes that would have otherwise been useless. Then I sat all this on the bench to consider while I moved on. You'll have to read on to find out the destiny of these, now salvaged, tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was another piece of cocobolo. I love this wood so much that I'm tempted to take the rest of the ten pieces I started with and just turn all of them. I'm trying to stretch them out though so I can think of new ways to use them as I go. Since I turned one yesterday with no center band, I looked at the satin gold kit today and thought it would look good with this wood with the band.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I was starting to get quite a few pens piled up on my bench. I was looking through pen kits trying to decide what to use next when I almost bumped one off the side of the bench. I didn't wish for any of them to hit the concrete floor in my shop. So I figured it was time I stopped what I was doing and find a better way of keeping up with them. Mike, someone who has been very helpful to me, suggested that I build a display stand for my pens. This is what I came up with on the spur of the moment. With some more thought, I may come up with something better at a later date. For now though, this keeps them safe and displays them nicely for anyone who comes to my shop. This now sits in my front room, where all my finished work is, to display the pens. They are no longer sitting on my bench in the shop waiting to be damaged.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, remember those salvaged pen tubes?
> I'd been thinking about those tubes ever since I retrieved them out of the messed up pen blanks. Should I just redo what I'd originally started to do with them? Should I play it safe with them since they were to be reused and do something extremely simple? Neither of these options appealed to me. I now had two sets of pen tubes that would have otherwise went in the garbage. This was the perfect opportunity to try aq couple of ideas I had been thinking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a walnut pen. It is hard for you to see in the photo probably, but the grain does not run the length of the pen. It runs more of a diagonal, at an angle. The reason for this was to see if I really could use an odd scrap I had of walnut to make a pen.
> This scrap was cut at an odd angle for a table top pattern I made long time ago. It's another one of those pieces I just couldn't throw away. The wood itself came from a tree that was taken down by a tornado in a friend's yard about ten years ago. He had it milled into lumber, stacked and stickered out behind his shop. Then he barely used any of it. About ninety percent of the wood went to waste due to rot and beetles. This is one of the few pieces that survived.
> The point was that I realized something I had been wondering. No, I was not limited to wood of a certain length, running with the grain. As long as I could get blanks of a certain size, no matter how the grain run, could I use it? Well let's see.
> That brings me to the last pen of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you seen the birdseye maple pen from yesterday, this is a piece of scrap off the exact same piece of wood. It was wide, but not nearly long enough for regular pen blanks. So I had the idea of cutting it the exact opposite of a normal pen blank. The grain ran across the blank instead of the length of it. I absolutely love how it turned out and am anxious to try this technique with other woods just to see what I get.
> I had to rethink this one as I was doing it though. First of all, I cut the blanks longer than needed. I guess you could say wider than needed depending how you look at it since the grain is running sideways instead of longways. I hope you understand what I'm saying.
> Anyway, I done this because I knew I was going to have chip out problems when I drilled the blank. I always have at least a tiny bit of chip out when drilling this direction in a hard wood, so I wasn't takingt chances. Remember I am almost out of this beautiful wood. This way, after drilling the blank, and I did have a tiny bit of chipout as expected, I was able to then go to the table saw and trim that chip out right off. This left me a perfect pen blank, with the grain running across.
> Next, for the turning. I intentionally made these blanks one inch by one inch. I done so because I wanted extra playing room for me to see just how it was going to turn. As I expected, it cut very rough because I was now cutting end grain on two sides of the pen blank. Remember though that I learned a lot about grind angles and tool presentation on end grain when I was learning to turn bowl? I used my smallest bowl gouge and adjusted my tool rest and was able to work these blanks just as well as if the grain was running the length.
> 
> So now I know. I will probably still sweat bullets when I'm working with something I am extremely limited on, like the birdseye maple, blood wood, or some other medium I may aquire. From now on though, I don't think I'll be quite as nervous about messing up tubes by not turning a blank correctly. I learned today that with a little bit of time, they are easily salvaged.
> In also learned a little something about wood choices. Now, I am no longer limited by wood length and width. I can go the other way, or diaganally if needed.
> Also, I've got other ideas. The pen I cut with the walnut running at an angle? Since reading a comment from Doe on the previous post, I thought about cutting contrasting woods at angles and gluing them up into blanks. The possibilities are endless. Pretty soon I'll figure out a way to take my lathe shavings and make blanks.
> 
> That last line was a joke by the way. I don't think I will get that desperate. If I thought I needed to waste that much glue to use shavings, I think I'd come out cheaper just buying blanks.


Good save on that birdseye! I like it but the ringless are still my favorites.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Learning To Adapt*
> 
> I am always trying to think of little lessons to give out as I learn all of this. Today, I want to share what I believe to be the most important lesson I've learned about wood turning. Adapt. If something goes wrong, set it aside and think on it a while. Then adapt it to do something different. If you're wondering what made me think that one up, read on about today's adventures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First up today was a piece of bloodwood. I think this is a beautiful wood. I had a tiny piece of scrap of it. It is the hard wood that was given to me to use as guide blocks on my shop built band saw. This is the edge of the board that I sat aside. It was such a pretty wood that, even though the piece was small, I could not bring myself to throw it out. I knew I'd get to use it one day.
> I was sweating bullet though after yesterday's mess up though. I only had enough bloodwood for this pen and maybe one more. So a failure here would have been very disheartening to me. As you can see though, all went well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, the piece of wood on the right, is my second pen, and first failure of the day. On the left is the piece of wood off of the failure from yesterday. In the middle is the four tubes from the two pens that were messed up on. I put the damaged pens back on the mandrell, sharpened my smallest skew up, and sliced the wood off the tubes. I went slow and careful, and now had four tubes that would have otherwise been useless. Then I sat all this on the bench to consider while I moved on. You'll have to read on to find out the destiny of these, now salvaged, tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was another piece of cocobolo. I love this wood so much that I'm tempted to take the rest of the ten pieces I started with and just turn all of them. I'm trying to stretch them out though so I can think of new ways to use them as I go. Since I turned one yesterday with no center band, I looked at the satin gold kit today and thought it would look good with this wood with the band.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I was starting to get quite a few pens piled up on my bench. I was looking through pen kits trying to decide what to use next when I almost bumped one off the side of the bench. I didn't wish for any of them to hit the concrete floor in my shop. So I figured it was time I stopped what I was doing and find a better way of keeping up with them. Mike, someone who has been very helpful to me, suggested that I build a display stand for my pens. This is what I came up with on the spur of the moment. With some more thought, I may come up with something better at a later date. For now though, this keeps them safe and displays them nicely for anyone who comes to my shop. This now sits in my front room, where all my finished work is, to display the pens. They are no longer sitting on my bench in the shop waiting to be damaged.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, remember those salvaged pen tubes?
> I'd been thinking about those tubes ever since I retrieved them out of the messed up pen blanks. Should I just redo what I'd originally started to do with them? Should I play it safe with them since they were to be reused and do something extremely simple? Neither of these options appealed to me. I now had two sets of pen tubes that would have otherwise went in the garbage. This was the perfect opportunity to try aq couple of ideas I had been thinking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a walnut pen. It is hard for you to see in the photo probably, but the grain does not run the length of the pen. It runs more of a diagonal, at an angle. The reason for this was to see if I really could use an odd scrap I had of walnut to make a pen.
> This scrap was cut at an odd angle for a table top pattern I made long time ago. It's another one of those pieces I just couldn't throw away. The wood itself came from a tree that was taken down by a tornado in a friend's yard about ten years ago. He had it milled into lumber, stacked and stickered out behind his shop. Then he barely used any of it. About ninety percent of the wood went to waste due to rot and beetles. This is one of the few pieces that survived.
> The point was that I realized something I had been wondering. No, I was not limited to wood of a certain length, running with the grain. As long as I could get blanks of a certain size, no matter how the grain run, could I use it? Well let's see.
> That brings me to the last pen of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you seen the birdseye maple pen from yesterday, this is a piece of scrap off the exact same piece of wood. It was wide, but not nearly long enough for regular pen blanks. So I had the idea of cutting it the exact opposite of a normal pen blank. The grain ran across the blank instead of the length of it. I absolutely love how it turned out and am anxious to try this technique with other woods just to see what I get.
> I had to rethink this one as I was doing it though. First of all, I cut the blanks longer than needed. I guess you could say wider than needed depending how you look at it since the grain is running sideways instead of longways. I hope you understand what I'm saying.
> Anyway, I done this because I knew I was going to have chip out problems when I drilled the blank. I always have at least a tiny bit of chip out when drilling this direction in a hard wood, so I wasn't takingt chances. Remember I am almost out of this beautiful wood. This way, after drilling the blank, and I did have a tiny bit of chipout as expected, I was able to then go to the table saw and trim that chip out right off. This left me a perfect pen blank, with the grain running across.
> Next, for the turning. I intentionally made these blanks one inch by one inch. I done so because I wanted extra playing room for me to see just how it was going to turn. As I expected, it cut very rough because I was now cutting end grain on two sides of the pen blank. Remember though that I learned a lot about grind angles and tool presentation on end grain when I was learning to turn bowl? I used my smallest bowl gouge and adjusted my tool rest and was able to work these blanks just as well as if the grain was running the length.
> 
> So now I know. I will probably still sweat bullets when I'm working with something I am extremely limited on, like the birdseye maple, blood wood, or some other medium I may aquire. From now on though, I don't think I'll be quite as nervous about messing up tubes by not turning a blank correctly. I learned today that with a little bit of time, they are easily salvaged.
> In also learned a little something about wood choices. Now, I am no longer limited by wood length and width. I can go the other way, or diaganally if needed.
> Also, I've got other ideas. The pen I cut with the walnut running at an angle? Since reading a comment from Doe on the previous post, I thought about cutting contrasting woods at angles and gluing them up into blanks. The possibilities are endless. Pretty soon I'll figure out a way to take my lathe shavings and make blanks.
> 
> That last line was a joke by the way. I don't think I will get that desperate. If I thought I needed to waste that much glue to use shavings, I think I'd come out cheaper just buying blanks.


Andy, I'm realizing that and will definately be making more of the band less pens in the future. Hey, I have to give my public what they want to see. (that is a joke by the way, you can laugh now)

Nancy, thank you. I only recently got into turning. It is as addicting as scrolling is. I now look at any piece of wood that is too small for me to use for scrolling and wonder what I can turn with it. This is madness.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Learning To Adapt*
> 
> I am always trying to think of little lessons to give out as I learn all of this. Today, I want to share what I believe to be the most important lesson I've learned about wood turning. Adapt. If something goes wrong, set it aside and think on it a while. Then adapt it to do something different. If you're wondering what made me think that one up, read on about today's adventures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First up today was a piece of bloodwood. I think this is a beautiful wood. I had a tiny piece of scrap of it. It is the hard wood that was given to me to use as guide blocks on my shop built band saw. This is the edge of the board that I sat aside. It was such a pretty wood that, even though the piece was small, I could not bring myself to throw it out. I knew I'd get to use it one day.
> I was sweating bullet though after yesterday's mess up though. I only had enough bloodwood for this pen and maybe one more. So a failure here would have been very disheartening to me. As you can see though, all went well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, the piece of wood on the right, is my second pen, and first failure of the day. On the left is the piece of wood off of the failure from yesterday. In the middle is the four tubes from the two pens that were messed up on. I put the damaged pens back on the mandrell, sharpened my smallest skew up, and sliced the wood off the tubes. I went slow and careful, and now had four tubes that would have otherwise been useless. Then I sat all this on the bench to consider while I moved on. You'll have to read on to find out the destiny of these, now salvaged, tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was another piece of cocobolo. I love this wood so much that I'm tempted to take the rest of the ten pieces I started with and just turn all of them. I'm trying to stretch them out though so I can think of new ways to use them as I go. Since I turned one yesterday with no center band, I looked at the satin gold kit today and thought it would look good with this wood with the band.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I was starting to get quite a few pens piled up on my bench. I was looking through pen kits trying to decide what to use next when I almost bumped one off the side of the bench. I didn't wish for any of them to hit the concrete floor in my shop. So I figured it was time I stopped what I was doing and find a better way of keeping up with them. Mike, someone who has been very helpful to me, suggested that I build a display stand for my pens. This is what I came up with on the spur of the moment. With some more thought, I may come up with something better at a later date. For now though, this keeps them safe and displays them nicely for anyone who comes to my shop. This now sits in my front room, where all my finished work is, to display the pens. They are no longer sitting on my bench in the shop waiting to be damaged.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, remember those salvaged pen tubes?
> I'd been thinking about those tubes ever since I retrieved them out of the messed up pen blanks. Should I just redo what I'd originally started to do with them? Should I play it safe with them since they were to be reused and do something extremely simple? Neither of these options appealed to me. I now had two sets of pen tubes that would have otherwise went in the garbage. This was the perfect opportunity to try aq couple of ideas I had been thinking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a walnut pen. It is hard for you to see in the photo probably, but the grain does not run the length of the pen. It runs more of a diagonal, at an angle. The reason for this was to see if I really could use an odd scrap I had of walnut to make a pen.
> This scrap was cut at an odd angle for a table top pattern I made long time ago. It's another one of those pieces I just couldn't throw away. The wood itself came from a tree that was taken down by a tornado in a friend's yard about ten years ago. He had it milled into lumber, stacked and stickered out behind his shop. Then he barely used any of it. About ninety percent of the wood went to waste due to rot and beetles. This is one of the few pieces that survived.
> The point was that I realized something I had been wondering. No, I was not limited to wood of a certain length, running with the grain. As long as I could get blanks of a certain size, no matter how the grain run, could I use it? Well let's see.
> That brings me to the last pen of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you seen the birdseye maple pen from yesterday, this is a piece of scrap off the exact same piece of wood. It was wide, but not nearly long enough for regular pen blanks. So I had the idea of cutting it the exact opposite of a normal pen blank. The grain ran across the blank instead of the length of it. I absolutely love how it turned out and am anxious to try this technique with other woods just to see what I get.
> I had to rethink this one as I was doing it though. First of all, I cut the blanks longer than needed. I guess you could say wider than needed depending how you look at it since the grain is running sideways instead of longways. I hope you understand what I'm saying.
> Anyway, I done this because I knew I was going to have chip out problems when I drilled the blank. I always have at least a tiny bit of chip out when drilling this direction in a hard wood, so I wasn't takingt chances. Remember I am almost out of this beautiful wood. This way, after drilling the blank, and I did have a tiny bit of chipout as expected, I was able to then go to the table saw and trim that chip out right off. This left me a perfect pen blank, with the grain running across.
> Next, for the turning. I intentionally made these blanks one inch by one inch. I done so because I wanted extra playing room for me to see just how it was going to turn. As I expected, it cut very rough because I was now cutting end grain on two sides of the pen blank. Remember though that I learned a lot about grind angles and tool presentation on end grain when I was learning to turn bowl? I used my smallest bowl gouge and adjusted my tool rest and was able to work these blanks just as well as if the grain was running the length.
> 
> So now I know. I will probably still sweat bullets when I'm working with something I am extremely limited on, like the birdseye maple, blood wood, or some other medium I may aquire. From now on though, I don't think I'll be quite as nervous about messing up tubes by not turning a blank correctly. I learned today that with a little bit of time, they are easily salvaged.
> In also learned a little something about wood choices. Now, I am no longer limited by wood length and width. I can go the other way, or diaganally if needed.
> Also, I've got other ideas. The pen I cut with the walnut running at an angle? Since reading a comment from Doe on the previous post, I thought about cutting contrasting woods at angles and gluing them up into blanks. The possibilities are endless. Pretty soon I'll figure out a way to take my lathe shavings and make blanks.
> 
> That last line was a joke by the way. I don't think I will get that desperate. If I thought I needed to waste that much glue to use shavings, I think I'd come out cheaper just buying blanks.


My favorite was that last one, so you are surely on to something there William. It seems you are always thinking ahead and trying out new things. A great way to have fun and to continually learn new skills. That is called creativity, and you have plenty of that William! The pen stand looks great too. I'm sure that will also be further developed as time goes by.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Learning To Adapt*
> 
> I am always trying to think of little lessons to give out as I learn all of this. Today, I want to share what I believe to be the most important lesson I've learned about wood turning. Adapt. If something goes wrong, set it aside and think on it a while. Then adapt it to do something different. If you're wondering what made me think that one up, read on about today's adventures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First up today was a piece of bloodwood. I think this is a beautiful wood. I had a tiny piece of scrap of it. It is the hard wood that was given to me to use as guide blocks on my shop built band saw. This is the edge of the board that I sat aside. It was such a pretty wood that, even though the piece was small, I could not bring myself to throw it out. I knew I'd get to use it one day.
> I was sweating bullet though after yesterday's mess up though. I only had enough bloodwood for this pen and maybe one more. So a failure here would have been very disheartening to me. As you can see though, all went well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, the piece of wood on the right, is my second pen, and first failure of the day. On the left is the piece of wood off of the failure from yesterday. In the middle is the four tubes from the two pens that were messed up on. I put the damaged pens back on the mandrell, sharpened my smallest skew up, and sliced the wood off the tubes. I went slow and careful, and now had four tubes that would have otherwise been useless. Then I sat all this on the bench to consider while I moved on. You'll have to read on to find out the destiny of these, now salvaged, tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was another piece of cocobolo. I love this wood so much that I'm tempted to take the rest of the ten pieces I started with and just turn all of them. I'm trying to stretch them out though so I can think of new ways to use them as I go. Since I turned one yesterday with no center band, I looked at the satin gold kit today and thought it would look good with this wood with the band.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I was starting to get quite a few pens piled up on my bench. I was looking through pen kits trying to decide what to use next when I almost bumped one off the side of the bench. I didn't wish for any of them to hit the concrete floor in my shop. So I figured it was time I stopped what I was doing and find a better way of keeping up with them. Mike, someone who has been very helpful to me, suggested that I build a display stand for my pens. This is what I came up with on the spur of the moment. With some more thought, I may come up with something better at a later date. For now though, this keeps them safe and displays them nicely for anyone who comes to my shop. This now sits in my front room, where all my finished work is, to display the pens. They are no longer sitting on my bench in the shop waiting to be damaged.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, remember those salvaged pen tubes?
> I'd been thinking about those tubes ever since I retrieved them out of the messed up pen blanks. Should I just redo what I'd originally started to do with them? Should I play it safe with them since they were to be reused and do something extremely simple? Neither of these options appealed to me. I now had two sets of pen tubes that would have otherwise went in the garbage. This was the perfect opportunity to try aq couple of ideas I had been thinking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a walnut pen. It is hard for you to see in the photo probably, but the grain does not run the length of the pen. It runs more of a diagonal, at an angle. The reason for this was to see if I really could use an odd scrap I had of walnut to make a pen.
> This scrap was cut at an odd angle for a table top pattern I made long time ago. It's another one of those pieces I just couldn't throw away. The wood itself came from a tree that was taken down by a tornado in a friend's yard about ten years ago. He had it milled into lumber, stacked and stickered out behind his shop. Then he barely used any of it. About ninety percent of the wood went to waste due to rot and beetles. This is one of the few pieces that survived.
> The point was that I realized something I had been wondering. No, I was not limited to wood of a certain length, running with the grain. As long as I could get blanks of a certain size, no matter how the grain run, could I use it? Well let's see.
> That brings me to the last pen of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you seen the birdseye maple pen from yesterday, this is a piece of scrap off the exact same piece of wood. It was wide, but not nearly long enough for regular pen blanks. So I had the idea of cutting it the exact opposite of a normal pen blank. The grain ran across the blank instead of the length of it. I absolutely love how it turned out and am anxious to try this technique with other woods just to see what I get.
> I had to rethink this one as I was doing it though. First of all, I cut the blanks longer than needed. I guess you could say wider than needed depending how you look at it since the grain is running sideways instead of longways. I hope you understand what I'm saying.
> Anyway, I done this because I knew I was going to have chip out problems when I drilled the blank. I always have at least a tiny bit of chip out when drilling this direction in a hard wood, so I wasn't takingt chances. Remember I am almost out of this beautiful wood. This way, after drilling the blank, and I did have a tiny bit of chipout as expected, I was able to then go to the table saw and trim that chip out right off. This left me a perfect pen blank, with the grain running across.
> Next, for the turning. I intentionally made these blanks one inch by one inch. I done so because I wanted extra playing room for me to see just how it was going to turn. As I expected, it cut very rough because I was now cutting end grain on two sides of the pen blank. Remember though that I learned a lot about grind angles and tool presentation on end grain when I was learning to turn bowl? I used my smallest bowl gouge and adjusted my tool rest and was able to work these blanks just as well as if the grain was running the length.
> 
> So now I know. I will probably still sweat bullets when I'm working with something I am extremely limited on, like the birdseye maple, blood wood, or some other medium I may aquire. From now on though, I don't think I'll be quite as nervous about messing up tubes by not turning a blank correctly. I learned today that with a little bit of time, they are easily salvaged.
> In also learned a little something about wood choices. Now, I am no longer limited by wood length and width. I can go the other way, or diaganally if needed.
> Also, I've got other ideas. The pen I cut with the walnut running at an angle? Since reading a comment from Doe on the previous post, I thought about cutting contrasting woods at angles and gluing them up into blanks. The possibilities are endless. Pretty soon I'll figure out a way to take my lathe shavings and make blanks.
> 
> That last line was a joke by the way. I don't think I will get that desperate. If I thought I needed to waste that much glue to use shavings, I think I'd come out cheaper just buying blanks.


Thank you Stefang.
The last one is my favorite as well. It looks like marble to me. I will be trying other woods with the grain running across like that just to see what kind of effect I get. However, as it seems like most people like the ones without the center band, I have to make more of those. Actually, that's a good thing in my opinion. It shows off more of the wood, which I think is the best feature of all these pens anyway.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Learning To Adapt*
> 
> I am always trying to think of little lessons to give out as I learn all of this. Today, I want to share what I believe to be the most important lesson I've learned about wood turning. Adapt. If something goes wrong, set it aside and think on it a while. Then adapt it to do something different. If you're wondering what made me think that one up, read on about today's adventures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First up today was a piece of bloodwood. I think this is a beautiful wood. I had a tiny piece of scrap of it. It is the hard wood that was given to me to use as guide blocks on my shop built band saw. This is the edge of the board that I sat aside. It was such a pretty wood that, even though the piece was small, I could not bring myself to throw it out. I knew I'd get to use it one day.
> I was sweating bullet though after yesterday's mess up though. I only had enough bloodwood for this pen and maybe one more. So a failure here would have been very disheartening to me. As you can see though, all went well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, the piece of wood on the right, is my second pen, and first failure of the day. On the left is the piece of wood off of the failure from yesterday. In the middle is the four tubes from the two pens that were messed up on. I put the damaged pens back on the mandrell, sharpened my smallest skew up, and sliced the wood off the tubes. I went slow and careful, and now had four tubes that would have otherwise been useless. Then I sat all this on the bench to consider while I moved on. You'll have to read on to find out the destiny of these, now salvaged, tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was another piece of cocobolo. I love this wood so much that I'm tempted to take the rest of the ten pieces I started with and just turn all of them. I'm trying to stretch them out though so I can think of new ways to use them as I go. Since I turned one yesterday with no center band, I looked at the satin gold kit today and thought it would look good with this wood with the band.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I was starting to get quite a few pens piled up on my bench. I was looking through pen kits trying to decide what to use next when I almost bumped one off the side of the bench. I didn't wish for any of them to hit the concrete floor in my shop. So I figured it was time I stopped what I was doing and find a better way of keeping up with them. Mike, someone who has been very helpful to me, suggested that I build a display stand for my pens. This is what I came up with on the spur of the moment. With some more thought, I may come up with something better at a later date. For now though, this keeps them safe and displays them nicely for anyone who comes to my shop. This now sits in my front room, where all my finished work is, to display the pens. They are no longer sitting on my bench in the shop waiting to be damaged.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, remember those salvaged pen tubes?
> I'd been thinking about those tubes ever since I retrieved them out of the messed up pen blanks. Should I just redo what I'd originally started to do with them? Should I play it safe with them since they were to be reused and do something extremely simple? Neither of these options appealed to me. I now had two sets of pen tubes that would have otherwise went in the garbage. This was the perfect opportunity to try aq couple of ideas I had been thinking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a walnut pen. It is hard for you to see in the photo probably, but the grain does not run the length of the pen. It runs more of a diagonal, at an angle. The reason for this was to see if I really could use an odd scrap I had of walnut to make a pen.
> This scrap was cut at an odd angle for a table top pattern I made long time ago. It's another one of those pieces I just couldn't throw away. The wood itself came from a tree that was taken down by a tornado in a friend's yard about ten years ago. He had it milled into lumber, stacked and stickered out behind his shop. Then he barely used any of it. About ninety percent of the wood went to waste due to rot and beetles. This is one of the few pieces that survived.
> The point was that I realized something I had been wondering. No, I was not limited to wood of a certain length, running with the grain. As long as I could get blanks of a certain size, no matter how the grain run, could I use it? Well let's see.
> That brings me to the last pen of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you seen the birdseye maple pen from yesterday, this is a piece of scrap off the exact same piece of wood. It was wide, but not nearly long enough for regular pen blanks. So I had the idea of cutting it the exact opposite of a normal pen blank. The grain ran across the blank instead of the length of it. I absolutely love how it turned out and am anxious to try this technique with other woods just to see what I get.
> I had to rethink this one as I was doing it though. First of all, I cut the blanks longer than needed. I guess you could say wider than needed depending how you look at it since the grain is running sideways instead of longways. I hope you understand what I'm saying.
> Anyway, I done this because I knew I was going to have chip out problems when I drilled the blank. I always have at least a tiny bit of chip out when drilling this direction in a hard wood, so I wasn't takingt chances. Remember I am almost out of this beautiful wood. This way, after drilling the blank, and I did have a tiny bit of chipout as expected, I was able to then go to the table saw and trim that chip out right off. This left me a perfect pen blank, with the grain running across.
> Next, for the turning. I intentionally made these blanks one inch by one inch. I done so because I wanted extra playing room for me to see just how it was going to turn. As I expected, it cut very rough because I was now cutting end grain on two sides of the pen blank. Remember though that I learned a lot about grind angles and tool presentation on end grain when I was learning to turn bowl? I used my smallest bowl gouge and adjusted my tool rest and was able to work these blanks just as well as if the grain was running the length.
> 
> So now I know. I will probably still sweat bullets when I'm working with something I am extremely limited on, like the birdseye maple, blood wood, or some other medium I may aquire. From now on though, I don't think I'll be quite as nervous about messing up tubes by not turning a blank correctly. I learned today that with a little bit of time, they are easily salvaged.
> In also learned a little something about wood choices. Now, I am no longer limited by wood length and width. I can go the other way, or diaganally if needed.
> Also, I've got other ideas. The pen I cut with the walnut running at an angle? Since reading a comment from Doe on the previous post, I thought about cutting contrasting woods at angles and gluing them up into blanks. The possibilities are endless. Pretty soon I'll figure out a way to take my lathe shavings and make blanks.
> 
> That last line was a joke by the way. I don't think I will get that desperate. If I thought I needed to waste that much glue to use shavings, I think I'd come out cheaper just buying blanks.


Wow! The angled pen is amazing. The thought of doing that myself gives me the heebie-jeebies.

As for the shavings joke, what would happen if you used some bloodwood (or sapele or walnut) and maple shavings and mixed them with epoxy and packed the mess around a rough turned piece of what you have a lot of? I don't think it needs to be a thick layer but it might give you a speckledy sort of look if it works (sort of Corian-like). If there are voids, you can filll them with straight epoxy or repeat the mixture business. Maybe that's a goofy stupid idea but I thought I'd throw it out there . . .


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Learning To Adapt*
> 
> I am always trying to think of little lessons to give out as I learn all of this. Today, I want to share what I believe to be the most important lesson I've learned about wood turning. Adapt. If something goes wrong, set it aside and think on it a while. Then adapt it to do something different. If you're wondering what made me think that one up, read on about today's adventures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First up today was a piece of bloodwood. I think this is a beautiful wood. I had a tiny piece of scrap of it. It is the hard wood that was given to me to use as guide blocks on my shop built band saw. This is the edge of the board that I sat aside. It was such a pretty wood that, even though the piece was small, I could not bring myself to throw it out. I knew I'd get to use it one day.
> I was sweating bullet though after yesterday's mess up though. I only had enough bloodwood for this pen and maybe one more. So a failure here would have been very disheartening to me. As you can see though, all went well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, the piece of wood on the right, is my second pen, and first failure of the day. On the left is the piece of wood off of the failure from yesterday. In the middle is the four tubes from the two pens that were messed up on. I put the damaged pens back on the mandrell, sharpened my smallest skew up, and sliced the wood off the tubes. I went slow and careful, and now had four tubes that would have otherwise been useless. Then I sat all this on the bench to consider while I moved on. You'll have to read on to find out the destiny of these, now salvaged, tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was another piece of cocobolo. I love this wood so much that I'm tempted to take the rest of the ten pieces I started with and just turn all of them. I'm trying to stretch them out though so I can think of new ways to use them as I go. Since I turned one yesterday with no center band, I looked at the satin gold kit today and thought it would look good with this wood with the band.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I was starting to get quite a few pens piled up on my bench. I was looking through pen kits trying to decide what to use next when I almost bumped one off the side of the bench. I didn't wish for any of them to hit the concrete floor in my shop. So I figured it was time I stopped what I was doing and find a better way of keeping up with them. Mike, someone who has been very helpful to me, suggested that I build a display stand for my pens. This is what I came up with on the spur of the moment. With some more thought, I may come up with something better at a later date. For now though, this keeps them safe and displays them nicely for anyone who comes to my shop. This now sits in my front room, where all my finished work is, to display the pens. They are no longer sitting on my bench in the shop waiting to be damaged.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, remember those salvaged pen tubes?
> I'd been thinking about those tubes ever since I retrieved them out of the messed up pen blanks. Should I just redo what I'd originally started to do with them? Should I play it safe with them since they were to be reused and do something extremely simple? Neither of these options appealed to me. I now had two sets of pen tubes that would have otherwise went in the garbage. This was the perfect opportunity to try aq couple of ideas I had been thinking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a walnut pen. It is hard for you to see in the photo probably, but the grain does not run the length of the pen. It runs more of a diagonal, at an angle. The reason for this was to see if I really could use an odd scrap I had of walnut to make a pen.
> This scrap was cut at an odd angle for a table top pattern I made long time ago. It's another one of those pieces I just couldn't throw away. The wood itself came from a tree that was taken down by a tornado in a friend's yard about ten years ago. He had it milled into lumber, stacked and stickered out behind his shop. Then he barely used any of it. About ninety percent of the wood went to waste due to rot and beetles. This is one of the few pieces that survived.
> The point was that I realized something I had been wondering. No, I was not limited to wood of a certain length, running with the grain. As long as I could get blanks of a certain size, no matter how the grain run, could I use it? Well let's see.
> That brings me to the last pen of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you seen the birdseye maple pen from yesterday, this is a piece of scrap off the exact same piece of wood. It was wide, but not nearly long enough for regular pen blanks. So I had the idea of cutting it the exact opposite of a normal pen blank. The grain ran across the blank instead of the length of it. I absolutely love how it turned out and am anxious to try this technique with other woods just to see what I get.
> I had to rethink this one as I was doing it though. First of all, I cut the blanks longer than needed. I guess you could say wider than needed depending how you look at it since the grain is running sideways instead of longways. I hope you understand what I'm saying.
> Anyway, I done this because I knew I was going to have chip out problems when I drilled the blank. I always have at least a tiny bit of chip out when drilling this direction in a hard wood, so I wasn't takingt chances. Remember I am almost out of this beautiful wood. This way, after drilling the blank, and I did have a tiny bit of chipout as expected, I was able to then go to the table saw and trim that chip out right off. This left me a perfect pen blank, with the grain running across.
> Next, for the turning. I intentionally made these blanks one inch by one inch. I done so because I wanted extra playing room for me to see just how it was going to turn. As I expected, it cut very rough because I was now cutting end grain on two sides of the pen blank. Remember though that I learned a lot about grind angles and tool presentation on end grain when I was learning to turn bowl? I used my smallest bowl gouge and adjusted my tool rest and was able to work these blanks just as well as if the grain was running the length.
> 
> So now I know. I will probably still sweat bullets when I'm working with something I am extremely limited on, like the birdseye maple, blood wood, or some other medium I may aquire. From now on though, I don't think I'll be quite as nervous about messing up tubes by not turning a blank correctly. I learned today that with a little bit of time, they are easily salvaged.
> In also learned a little something about wood choices. Now, I am no longer limited by wood length and width. I can go the other way, or diaganally if needed.
> Also, I've got other ideas. The pen I cut with the walnut running at an angle? Since reading a comment from Doe on the previous post, I thought about cutting contrasting woods at angles and gluing them up into blanks. The possibilities are endless. Pretty soon I'll figure out a way to take my lathe shavings and make blanks.
> 
> That last line was a joke by the way. I don't think I will get that desperate. If I thought I needed to waste that much glue to use shavings, I think I'd come out cheaper just buying blanks.


Ok, you caught me. The shavings joke is only a joke because it came from Lisa after a different suggestion I made. I have an old milkcrate on a shelf in my shop. It has scraps of wood from my scrolling that are too small for anything, but of woods that are pretty enough that I don't want to throw them away. I think the thickest thing in there is probably a sixteenth of an inch. Some of it is more of a veneer thickness. There's all kinds of stuff in there that I've always said I'd find a use for. I am thinking of the best glue and technique now to glue all that up into pen blanks. I think it would make for a fascinating striped pen. That is when Lisa asks how long it will be before I'm gluing up saw dust for blanks.
We both laughed at that because I may actually do something like you described one day. You never know what crazy ideas I may come up with. As my wife puts it, I am a dangerous man when left to my own devices.

As for the angled pen or the sideways grain one, they are not as difficult as they sound. The only two catches I found were the drilling and cutting tools. 
I had to use bowl gouges for the cutting to get a clean cut. I guess the angle could be reground on a spindle gouge for this, but I don't want to mess up a spindle gouge when I have the ones for bowls. I guess a skew could also be used to slice across the end grain, but I am just more comfortable with my gouges.
As for drilling, I forgot to mention that I originally messed up a blank by trying to cut to length and then drill. It caused enough tearout that there would have been tearout gaps on the pen. You have to leave the blank long, drill, and then trim to size. You'll still have tear out, but it is just trimmed away before mounting the blank on the lathe. 
Oh, one more thing. Since you'll have to trim up to a quarter inch to get rid of that tear out, if you're trying to match the grain closely (something I always try to do) then you'll want to make sure to start your drilling from the ends of the blanks that will be meeting in the middle.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Learning To Adapt*
> 
> I am always trying to think of little lessons to give out as I learn all of this. Today, I want to share what I believe to be the most important lesson I've learned about wood turning. Adapt. If something goes wrong, set it aside and think on it a while. Then adapt it to do something different. If you're wondering what made me think that one up, read on about today's adventures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First up today was a piece of bloodwood. I think this is a beautiful wood. I had a tiny piece of scrap of it. It is the hard wood that was given to me to use as guide blocks on my shop built band saw. This is the edge of the board that I sat aside. It was such a pretty wood that, even though the piece was small, I could not bring myself to throw it out. I knew I'd get to use it one day.
> I was sweating bullet though after yesterday's mess up though. I only had enough bloodwood for this pen and maybe one more. So a failure here would have been very disheartening to me. As you can see though, all went well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, the piece of wood on the right, is my second pen, and first failure of the day. On the left is the piece of wood off of the failure from yesterday. In the middle is the four tubes from the two pens that were messed up on. I put the damaged pens back on the mandrell, sharpened my smallest skew up, and sliced the wood off the tubes. I went slow and careful, and now had four tubes that would have otherwise been useless. Then I sat all this on the bench to consider while I moved on. You'll have to read on to find out the destiny of these, now salvaged, tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was another piece of cocobolo. I love this wood so much that I'm tempted to take the rest of the ten pieces I started with and just turn all of them. I'm trying to stretch them out though so I can think of new ways to use them as I go. Since I turned one yesterday with no center band, I looked at the satin gold kit today and thought it would look good with this wood with the band.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I was starting to get quite a few pens piled up on my bench. I was looking through pen kits trying to decide what to use next when I almost bumped one off the side of the bench. I didn't wish for any of them to hit the concrete floor in my shop. So I figured it was time I stopped what I was doing and find a better way of keeping up with them. Mike, someone who has been very helpful to me, suggested that I build a display stand for my pens. This is what I came up with on the spur of the moment. With some more thought, I may come up with something better at a later date. For now though, this keeps them safe and displays them nicely for anyone who comes to my shop. This now sits in my front room, where all my finished work is, to display the pens. They are no longer sitting on my bench in the shop waiting to be damaged.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, remember those salvaged pen tubes?
> I'd been thinking about those tubes ever since I retrieved them out of the messed up pen blanks. Should I just redo what I'd originally started to do with them? Should I play it safe with them since they were to be reused and do something extremely simple? Neither of these options appealed to me. I now had two sets of pen tubes that would have otherwise went in the garbage. This was the perfect opportunity to try aq couple of ideas I had been thinking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a walnut pen. It is hard for you to see in the photo probably, but the grain does not run the length of the pen. It runs more of a diagonal, at an angle. The reason for this was to see if I really could use an odd scrap I had of walnut to make a pen.
> This scrap was cut at an odd angle for a table top pattern I made long time ago. It's another one of those pieces I just couldn't throw away. The wood itself came from a tree that was taken down by a tornado in a friend's yard about ten years ago. He had it milled into lumber, stacked and stickered out behind his shop. Then he barely used any of it. About ninety percent of the wood went to waste due to rot and beetles. This is one of the few pieces that survived.
> The point was that I realized something I had been wondering. No, I was not limited to wood of a certain length, running with the grain. As long as I could get blanks of a certain size, no matter how the grain run, could I use it? Well let's see.
> That brings me to the last pen of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you seen the birdseye maple pen from yesterday, this is a piece of scrap off the exact same piece of wood. It was wide, but not nearly long enough for regular pen blanks. So I had the idea of cutting it the exact opposite of a normal pen blank. The grain ran across the blank instead of the length of it. I absolutely love how it turned out and am anxious to try this technique with other woods just to see what I get.
> I had to rethink this one as I was doing it though. First of all, I cut the blanks longer than needed. I guess you could say wider than needed depending how you look at it since the grain is running sideways instead of longways. I hope you understand what I'm saying.
> Anyway, I done this because I knew I was going to have chip out problems when I drilled the blank. I always have at least a tiny bit of chip out when drilling this direction in a hard wood, so I wasn't takingt chances. Remember I am almost out of this beautiful wood. This way, after drilling the blank, and I did have a tiny bit of chipout as expected, I was able to then go to the table saw and trim that chip out right off. This left me a perfect pen blank, with the grain running across.
> Next, for the turning. I intentionally made these blanks one inch by one inch. I done so because I wanted extra playing room for me to see just how it was going to turn. As I expected, it cut very rough because I was now cutting end grain on two sides of the pen blank. Remember though that I learned a lot about grind angles and tool presentation on end grain when I was learning to turn bowl? I used my smallest bowl gouge and adjusted my tool rest and was able to work these blanks just as well as if the grain was running the length.
> 
> So now I know. I will probably still sweat bullets when I'm working with something I am extremely limited on, like the birdseye maple, blood wood, or some other medium I may aquire. From now on though, I don't think I'll be quite as nervous about messing up tubes by not turning a blank correctly. I learned today that with a little bit of time, they are easily salvaged.
> In also learned a little something about wood choices. Now, I am no longer limited by wood length and width. I can go the other way, or diaganally if needed.
> Also, I've got other ideas. The pen I cut with the walnut running at an angle? Since reading a comment from Doe on the previous post, I thought about cutting contrasting woods at angles and gluing them up into blanks. The possibilities are endless. Pretty soon I'll figure out a way to take my lathe shavings and make blanks.
> 
> That last line was a joke by the way. I don't think I will get that desperate. If I thought I needed to waste that much glue to use shavings, I think I'd come out cheaper just buying blanks.


Nicely done. William. I like the heck outta your very simple, very effective display board. Wow, it don't get any better than that. I may borrow that idea, at least my version of it.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Learning To Adapt*
> 
> I am always trying to think of little lessons to give out as I learn all of this. Today, I want to share what I believe to be the most important lesson I've learned about wood turning. Adapt. If something goes wrong, set it aside and think on it a while. Then adapt it to do something different. If you're wondering what made me think that one up, read on about today's adventures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First up today was a piece of bloodwood. I think this is a beautiful wood. I had a tiny piece of scrap of it. It is the hard wood that was given to me to use as guide blocks on my shop built band saw. This is the edge of the board that I sat aside. It was such a pretty wood that, even though the piece was small, I could not bring myself to throw it out. I knew I'd get to use it one day.
> I was sweating bullet though after yesterday's mess up though. I only had enough bloodwood for this pen and maybe one more. So a failure here would have been very disheartening to me. As you can see though, all went well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this photo, the piece of wood on the right, is my second pen, and first failure of the day. On the left is the piece of wood off of the failure from yesterday. In the middle is the four tubes from the two pens that were messed up on. I put the damaged pens back on the mandrell, sharpened my smallest skew up, and sliced the wood off the tubes. I went slow and careful, and now had four tubes that would have otherwise been useless. Then I sat all this on the bench to consider while I moved on. You'll have to read on to find out the destiny of these, now salvaged, tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was another piece of cocobolo. I love this wood so much that I'm tempted to take the rest of the ten pieces I started with and just turn all of them. I'm trying to stretch them out though so I can think of new ways to use them as I go. Since I turned one yesterday with no center band, I looked at the satin gold kit today and thought it would look good with this wood with the band.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I was starting to get quite a few pens piled up on my bench. I was looking through pen kits trying to decide what to use next when I almost bumped one off the side of the bench. I didn't wish for any of them to hit the concrete floor in my shop. So I figured it was time I stopped what I was doing and find a better way of keeping up with them. Mike, someone who has been very helpful to me, suggested that I build a display stand for my pens. This is what I came up with on the spur of the moment. With some more thought, I may come up with something better at a later date. For now though, this keeps them safe and displays them nicely for anyone who comes to my shop. This now sits in my front room, where all my finished work is, to display the pens. They are no longer sitting on my bench in the shop waiting to be damaged.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, remember those salvaged pen tubes?
> I'd been thinking about those tubes ever since I retrieved them out of the messed up pen blanks. Should I just redo what I'd originally started to do with them? Should I play it safe with them since they were to be reused and do something extremely simple? Neither of these options appealed to me. I now had two sets of pen tubes that would have otherwise went in the garbage. This was the perfect opportunity to try aq couple of ideas I had been thinking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a walnut pen. It is hard for you to see in the photo probably, but the grain does not run the length of the pen. It runs more of a diagonal, at an angle. The reason for this was to see if I really could use an odd scrap I had of walnut to make a pen.
> This scrap was cut at an odd angle for a table top pattern I made long time ago. It's another one of those pieces I just couldn't throw away. The wood itself came from a tree that was taken down by a tornado in a friend's yard about ten years ago. He had it milled into lumber, stacked and stickered out behind his shop. Then he barely used any of it. About ninety percent of the wood went to waste due to rot and beetles. This is one of the few pieces that survived.
> The point was that I realized something I had been wondering. No, I was not limited to wood of a certain length, running with the grain. As long as I could get blanks of a certain size, no matter how the grain run, could I use it? Well let's see.
> That brings me to the last pen of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you seen the birdseye maple pen from yesterday, this is a piece of scrap off the exact same piece of wood. It was wide, but not nearly long enough for regular pen blanks. So I had the idea of cutting it the exact opposite of a normal pen blank. The grain ran across the blank instead of the length of it. I absolutely love how it turned out and am anxious to try this technique with other woods just to see what I get.
> I had to rethink this one as I was doing it though. First of all, I cut the blanks longer than needed. I guess you could say wider than needed depending how you look at it since the grain is running sideways instead of longways. I hope you understand what I'm saying.
> Anyway, I done this because I knew I was going to have chip out problems when I drilled the blank. I always have at least a tiny bit of chip out when drilling this direction in a hard wood, so I wasn't takingt chances. Remember I am almost out of this beautiful wood. This way, after drilling the blank, and I did have a tiny bit of chipout as expected, I was able to then go to the table saw and trim that chip out right off. This left me a perfect pen blank, with the grain running across.
> Next, for the turning. I intentionally made these blanks one inch by one inch. I done so because I wanted extra playing room for me to see just how it was going to turn. As I expected, it cut very rough because I was now cutting end grain on two sides of the pen blank. Remember though that I learned a lot about grind angles and tool presentation on end grain when I was learning to turn bowl? I used my smallest bowl gouge and adjusted my tool rest and was able to work these blanks just as well as if the grain was running the length.
> 
> So now I know. I will probably still sweat bullets when I'm working with something I am extremely limited on, like the birdseye maple, blood wood, or some other medium I may aquire. From now on though, I don't think I'll be quite as nervous about messing up tubes by not turning a blank correctly. I learned today that with a little bit of time, they are easily salvaged.
> In also learned a little something about wood choices. Now, I am no longer limited by wood length and width. I can go the other way, or diaganally if needed.
> Also, I've got other ideas. The pen I cut with the walnut running at an angle? Since reading a comment from Doe on the previous post, I thought about cutting contrasting woods at angles and gluing them up into blanks. The possibilities are endless. Pretty soon I'll figure out a way to take my lathe shavings and make blanks.
> 
> That last line was a joke by the way. I don't think I will get that desperate. If I thought I needed to waste that much glue to use shavings, I think I'd come out cheaper just buying blanks.


Thanks Roger.
Borrow away. It's just something I came up with on the quick. I plan on taking the time to put some thought into a better one someday soon.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*People Spoke, So I Listened*

For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going. 
















Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.

Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.

The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.








I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
















I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.








For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.

That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.








My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise. 
So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?

*It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


FAN-FREAKIN_TASTIC!!!
Congratulations!

Not only is it your first sold pen…
It is your first custom pen…
Along with being your first commissioned pen!!!
You ain't NO pen virgin anymore!!!

BTW: I love the Bloodwood/Maple pen!!!
I really gotta get my lathe set up.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


I loved all your latest creations. And selling is a good thing (I wouldn't know from personal experience-LOL). My favorite of today is the bloodwood with the maple ring.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


Lovely, lovely, lovely!! You are doing great and I'm glad I was able to help in some small way, it makes me feel good that you are doing so well!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


I thought the blood wood with the maple ring would be enjoyed. In my personal opinion that is the nicest one yet. If I ever get the chance, I hope to get my hands on some more blood wood. That was just a tiny piece that was given to me, but it was the first I'd ever seen. That makes me think though of all the many, many woods I would like to try.

Randy, thanks. 
And yes, you do need to get your lathe set up. 
That sounds like a job for tonight. I'm fixing to go to bed. I'll check in the morning and see if you got it done.

Andy, thank you.
And don't feel bad. I usually wind up giving a lot, donating to a lot of good cuases, and giving work in trade, but that fifteen dollar pen is the first thing I have actually been given money for in a long, long time.

Bearpie, and I thank you for the help you've given me. So many people have helped me, but you have been one of the major players. I can't thank some people on this site enough for all the help I've recieved. 
I have thought a few time of leaving Lumberjocks. Each time I consider it though, something happens to make me remember that some of the best people in the world are here and always willing to help when a person needs it.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


Unfortunately, it will be a while before my lathe is set up. There are two rooms, in the basement, that need to be emptied, painted, have shelving/storage units built & organized before the lathe can be set up.
Yeah, it'll be a while….


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


Woot! Congrats!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


Thanks Rich.

Randy, why don't you set it up in the living room?
It's worth it.
If I wasn't married, I would.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


My housemate would kill me if I set it up in the living room. He's already upset that I'm taking all the space in MY shop!!!


----------



## windmill

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


Hello William, what kind of glue do you use….mick antley


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


If you're talking about the pens, I use super glue to glue the tubes in the blanks.
If you're talking about the bowl blank glueups, I use Titebond II.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


William- Is Paduk pretty similar to bloodwood?


----------



## windmill

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


Thanks ….. Been using Elmer's , but I need a good glue to make a butcher block…...bought Tilebond II & III….Thanks Mick


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


wow your really getting after it, i read your other blog and then got busy and forgot to post my comments…dang..so your getting it now..its 11:08 and its raining to beat the band, thunder storms…im sure you got some, well maybe….these pens are fantastic William, if i was going to turn , i would love to start out with pens, but, my back wont allow it…all i can say is your doing really great William, i love your strong will to learn, im in the middle of a big project, so im as busy as my body will allow, i got a good work day in today while you were turning i was burning,,,lol, ill watch to see what is next, send me your address would you i want to get a package pf pen planks to you…if you want them…yea i know you want them…your like a hound dog in the midst of a ******************** hunt…..lol…...grizz


----------



## Tugboater78

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


Seeing stuff like this makes me wanna go dig the lathe out of my grandfathers garage.., its mine to grab but i have nowhere to store it atm…maybe one day


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


Congratulations on your first sale William! Not a small thing. The beginning of 'William's Custom Pens' business. It will be exciting to see how this develops.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


*Andy*, I wish I could give you that answer, but I haven't got a clue. I've never seen paduck. I wouldn't begin to try and guess based on writing or photos either. I've learned that doing so isn't very accurate either. Hopefully someone else can chime in and tell us.

*Mickey*, if you have Titebond II and III, I'd use the III for a butcher block. I've never used it, but it is supposed to be better than the II. All of titebond products are good from my experience. I often use Gorilla Wood Glue because it sets faster, but when doing something like this that will be spinning at high speed in front of me, I stick with something that is tried and true, like Titebond.

*Grizz*, I thought I sent you my address a few days ago, but it may have been someone else. I'll send it again, regardless, in a PM.
If you have the tooling already to do it, pens are actually a great project for someone with a bad back. That's actually one of the things I think that is drawing me to them so much. I can't stand for too long without hurting. The problem is, I can't sit for too long without hurting either. I have to move around, then rest, but not too long before moving around again. The only way I can stay put for long is to lie down so I take pressure off my disks. I'd do something lying down, but haven't been able to find any wood working projects I can do that way. 
Anyway, with pen turning, I can stand for a while, and sit for a while. So I can keep at it for long periods of time without hurting. 
Have you tried turning pens? I assume you have if you've got pen blanks. If you ever decide to give it a shot again, I'd like to make a suggestion. It will take some trial and error to get this right. Adjust your lathe height so that you can be comfortable standing or sitting. This is different for different people. Mine had to be raised a bit. This allows me to stand without having to stoop to see fine details, and it allows me to sit on a comfortable stool.

*Tugboater*, if you can get it, find somewhere for it. From my experience, if you don't, something may happen and it no longer be there.

*Stefang*, thank you. I hope you're right. I'd love to sell more pens so I can well, buy stuff to make more pens. My family doesn't know it, but they hope I sell more pens too. If not, there's going to be a lot of people getting pens for Christmas.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


UHhhh…...
Can I be on your Christmas gift giving list??? JK!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


You sure can Randy.
Send me your address.
I want to give you a great Christmas gift.
A pen kit and blanks to go with it.
I believe that, for you, helping you turn your first pen would be a better gift than a pen itself. 
I hope you'll have your lathe set up by Christmas.
If not I guess I'll just have to send you a pen instead.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


William,
Is that like: "Give a man a fish…..."

I am hoping to have my lathe set up in a month or two (it'll probably be more like 3 or 4). It really depends upon how fast my housemate gets the two rooms in the basement cleared out! Once the rooms are cleared, I then need to move a dryer (that does NOT belong in my shop), which involves rerouting a 220V line. It will happen, I'm just not quite sure when…..


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


Congratulations William!!! I hope this is the first sale of many more to come.

I love those bandless pens! The aromatic cedar is beautiful wood. I thought I never saw it before but I have-as *very *expensive hangers. The bloodwood/maple pen turned out really nice; it's great that you could make use of the short piece.

Boy, I can sympathize about the lost part. I've done that more times than I care to count.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


Thanks Doe. 
I'll have to send you some cedar if you want some. I don't have an overabundance of it, but enough to spare. There is actually a story behind that particular cedar that will make you like it even more.
I was looking for some cedar to make my daughter a chest. You can see the chest here. Anyway, I was having a hard time finding any affordable. I happened to be at a man's house looking at some things he had listed on Craiglist when we got to talking about wood and the cedar subject came up. He told me he had some in the loft above his barn that I could have if I got it out of his way. It had been up there since his dad put it there, fifty years ago.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


William,
The 50 YO cedar story is great!!!
However, were it told another way….
Your 18(?)YO daughter would have a 50YO "Chest"!!! ;^)


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


You aint right Randy.
I'm going to bed.
It's been too long a day for me to come up with a response to that one.
Have a good night.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


What a beautiful box, your daughter is lucky to have a Dad like you. I'd be honored to have a tiny bit.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


Thanks Doe.
I have seven boys, but she is my only baby girl. 
And she has always known how to get her way with Dad. So I must admit that she is a little spoiled.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


william you got them looking great , love the one with the ring around it ,they all look awesome


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *People Spoke, So I Listened*
> 
> For several days now, I have been wanting to glue up some more bowl blanks. It has been cool though. When I say cool, keep in mind I live in Mississippi. It has ranged from the forties at night up to around the mid sixties during the day. I know that during the day it is warm enough to glue, but the temperatures fall below what the glue bottle instructions recommend before it is set. I've had a past safety issue with trying to glue material in low temperatures before. So, I won't do it now unless I have a fire going in the wood heater. The problem with recent weather her though is it's cool, but not cool enough that I could stay in the shop comfortable with a fire going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well today it rose quickly into the seventies. So I took the opportunity to get a couple of bowl blanks glued up.
> 
> Then it was back to some pens. I wanted to do some more experimenting with what I started yesterday, with the grain running across the pen instead of the length of it. I had a few ideas. However, there was another thing that had been on my mind. Here on Lumberjock, from family, and the few friends who have seen my pens, a great majority of them tell me the same thing, they like the ones without the center band best. So I decided to prepare five blanks. I had five different idea to try.
> 
> The first pen of today, I have nothing to show you. I completely messed it up and didn't even think to take photos to show you. First, I forgot to scuff up the tube before inserting it. Now, with the bandless pens, one of the blank halves has about a quarter inch space between the end of the wood and where the tube starts. With the tube not scuffed up, the tube slipped while I was trying to press the cap and clip in. So I pushed the tube out, scuffed it, and reglued it. All was good, until I cracked the wood trying to repress it. Then I was trying to disassemble it to try and reuse everything, when the cap went flying into a large pile of shavings from the lathe. As anyone who has ever done this knows, it was then lost forever. By the time it was all over, I'd lost a cap, bend a tube, and destroyed the wood. It was time for a coffee break already.
> Ok, coffee makes everything better. It was time for another go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the marble look of the birdseye maple on the last pen I done yesterday so much that I wanted to make another one. It was without the center ring. Remember, all of them are today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I showed two sides of this pen. Now let me try my best to explain my thinking behind it.
> My wife loves aromatic cedar. I like it, but mainly because of the dramatic contrast between the heart wood and sapwood. So I wanted to figure out a way to put both on a pen, but without just simply having one on one end, and the other on the other.
> So, I took a piece of cedar that had heartwood with a strip of sapwood running up one side of it. Using my table saw, I cut it across to there I'd get an angle of both kinds of wood in the same one inch square strip. Next, I cut a piece long enough for both pen blanks out of the middle of this strip. Then I flipped them around, marked that orientation, and made the pen. It was somewhere along this area that I lost myself and had no idea how it was going to look. I did know that there was only one way to find out. I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next pen, I wanted to use that last small piece of blood wood I had. Since this was the last pen I'd be able to make with what I had though, and the other one had a center ring, I wanted this one to be without a center ring. The problem is, it wasn't quite long enough. I was about three eighths of an inch too short. So, thinking of something that Doe had mentioned on yesterday's blog, I decided to use super glue and glue a thin piece of birdseye maple to one of the blanks so it would be in the middle of the cut line on the back end of the pen. I let that dry for a bit while I talked with a friend that had stopped by. Then he wanted to watch me turn it.
> 
> That brings me to the last pen for today, and the pen that I will remember for the rest of my life. Read on and you'll understand why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend wanted a pen, but he couldn't find one that was exactly what he wanted. He wound up showing me the features of several different pens that he did like. So, I made a deal with him. I asked if he would buy a pen from me if I was able to turn a pen, based on the features he said he wanted, that he was happy with. So he showed me he liked the bump down near the nib, a straight shaft after that, with no center ring and the burned in grip lines. Also, his favorite wood of them all was the birdseye maple with the grain running sideways instead of lengthwise.
> So I turned this pen. He took a piece of paper and wrote a few things on it to "test drive" the pen, and said he absolutely loved it. That's right folks. Have you figured out why I'll always remember it?
> 
> *It is the first pen I've ever sold!*


Thank you Eddie.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*A Tale Of Two Bowls*

If you read my blog yesterday, you know I glued up material for two bowls. I got to work on those today.
Here is the first one, with an interesting result.
















The bowl is made of glued up layers of pecan and sapelle. That is not the story though.
If you looked at all closely at the photos yesterday and remember them, you may remember the blank was a bit thicker than that. 








This is my lesson of the day for my friend, Randy. Never stand in the line of fire when turning anything that you don't want to potentially hit you. I learned that lesson a while back. So luckily, I seen this piece fly, but did not feel it.
This is also why I try to glue up two bowl blanks at a time if I'm doing these laminated bowls. If I have one failure, I have another to work with. If I have two failures in one day, it's time to go home and rethink things.
I'm not sure what happened on this one to be honest with you. Times in the past, when something was destroyed, I had an explanation. On this bowl, everything was going great. There was no catches. Everything was balanced perfectly. I running at a comfortable speed and riding the bevel in on each stroke, looking just like a pro. The light of the second layer of pecan had just peaked through, when the top two layer decided it didn't want to turn anymore. It wanted to fly!
I had just pulled back my tool rest and planned on shutting the lathe down and get ready to switch to my curved rest to get closer to what I was doing. I seen something go almost striaight up into the rafters of the shop, and land, in the garbage can mind you, about twenty five feet away. I shut the lathe down, walked over to the garbage can, and retrieved these two pieces out. 
Luckily, thanks to the nifty thin parting tool I made thanks to Captain Eddie Castelin's videos, I sliced off things smoothly and just made it a shorter bowl.

Anyway, a short bowl is quick to turn. So I had enough of the day left to hop right onto the next bow.
































This bowl was made of the same material as the first. It was just turned differently for the glue up. Instead of cutting circles on the bandsaw and then gluing it up, I cut planks, glued them together, then turned the whole block sideways and cut it into a circle on the bandsaw.
I like this configuration better. It was my first time turing dry wood in this orientation. The way the grain runs, I was able to cut easily from the rim to center, as you norally would for a bowl, or from center to rim, as you would for an end grain turning. I liked that a lot because I could adapt my cut to whatever I was trying to do at any particular moment. Also, I think it made for a very nice finished look.

In closing today, I wish to make a discaimer.
In my "lesson of the day" points I make in some of these blog entries, please I hope noone takes these as me knowing what I am doing. I am a beginner. I am still learning this as I go along. If you want good advice, there are millions of turners who have been doing it for decades longer than I.
I only do the "lesson of the day" bits as a running joke towards a good friend of mine, Randy. I do this because Randy is the only beginning turner; wait, Randy is a future beginning turner. Randy is the only future beginning turner I know personally who may just know a little less than me about the subject.

Hello Randy. Remember today's lesson. Stay out of the line of fire of spinning bowls.


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Tale Of Two Bowls*
> 
> If you read my blog yesterday, you know I glued up material for two bowls. I got to work on those today.
> Here is the first one, with an interesting result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl is made of glued up layers of pecan and sapelle. That is not the story though.
> If you looked at all closely at the photos yesterday and remember them, you may remember the blank was a bit thicker than that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my lesson of the day for my friend, Randy. Never stand in the line of fire when turning anything that you don't want to potentially hit you. I learned that lesson a while back. So luckily, I seen this piece fly, but did not feel it.
> This is also why I try to glue up two bowl blanks at a time if I'm doing these laminated bowls. If I have one failure, I have another to work with. If I have two failures in one day, it's time to go home and rethink things.
> I'm not sure what happened on this one to be honest with you. Times in the past, when something was destroyed, I had an explanation. On this bowl, everything was going great. There was no catches. Everything was balanced perfectly. I running at a comfortable speed and riding the bevel in on each stroke, looking just like a pro. The light of the second layer of pecan had just peaked through, when the top two layer decided it didn't want to turn anymore. It wanted to fly!
> I had just pulled back my tool rest and planned on shutting the lathe down and get ready to switch to my curved rest to get closer to what I was doing. I seen something go almost striaight up into the rafters of the shop, and land, in the garbage can mind you, about twenty five feet away. I shut the lathe down, walked over to the garbage can, and retrieved these two pieces out.
> Luckily, thanks to the nifty thin parting tool I made thanks to Captain Eddie Castelin's videos, I sliced off things smoothly and just made it a shorter bowl.
> 
> Anyway, a short bowl is quick to turn. So I had enough of the day left to hop right onto the next bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl was made of the same material as the first. It was just turned differently for the glue up. Instead of cutting circles on the bandsaw and then gluing it up, I cut planks, glued them together, then turned the whole block sideways and cut it into a circle on the bandsaw.
> I like this configuration better. It was my first time turing dry wood in this orientation. The way the grain runs, I was able to cut easily from the rim to center, as you norally would for a bowl, or from center to rim, as you would for an end grain turning. I liked that a lot because I could adapt my cut to whatever I was trying to do at any particular moment. Also, I think it made for a very nice finished look.
> 
> In closing today, I wish to make a discaimer.
> In my "lesson of the day" points I make in some of these blog entries, please I hope noone takes these as me knowing what I am doing. I am a beginner. I am still learning this as I go along. If you want good advice, there are millions of turners who have been doing it for decades longer than I.
> I only do the "lesson of the day" bits as a running joke towards a good friend of mine, Randy. I do this because Randy is the only beginning turner; wait, Randy is a future beginning turner. Randy is the only future beginning turner I know personally who may just know a little less than me about the subject.
> 
> Hello Randy. Remember today's lesson. Stay out of the line of fire of spinning bowls.


Whizzz… bing… ker-plunk…..


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Tale Of Two Bowls*
> 
> If you read my blog yesterday, you know I glued up material for two bowls. I got to work on those today.
> Here is the first one, with an interesting result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl is made of glued up layers of pecan and sapelle. That is not the story though.
> If you looked at all closely at the photos yesterday and remember them, you may remember the blank was a bit thicker than that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my lesson of the day for my friend, Randy. Never stand in the line of fire when turning anything that you don't want to potentially hit you. I learned that lesson a while back. So luckily, I seen this piece fly, but did not feel it.
> This is also why I try to glue up two bowl blanks at a time if I'm doing these laminated bowls. If I have one failure, I have another to work with. If I have two failures in one day, it's time to go home and rethink things.
> I'm not sure what happened on this one to be honest with you. Times in the past, when something was destroyed, I had an explanation. On this bowl, everything was going great. There was no catches. Everything was balanced perfectly. I running at a comfortable speed and riding the bevel in on each stroke, looking just like a pro. The light of the second layer of pecan had just peaked through, when the top two layer decided it didn't want to turn anymore. It wanted to fly!
> I had just pulled back my tool rest and planned on shutting the lathe down and get ready to switch to my curved rest to get closer to what I was doing. I seen something go almost striaight up into the rafters of the shop, and land, in the garbage can mind you, about twenty five feet away. I shut the lathe down, walked over to the garbage can, and retrieved these two pieces out.
> Luckily, thanks to the nifty thin parting tool I made thanks to Captain Eddie Castelin's videos, I sliced off things smoothly and just made it a shorter bowl.
> 
> Anyway, a short bowl is quick to turn. So I had enough of the day left to hop right onto the next bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl was made of the same material as the first. It was just turned differently for the glue up. Instead of cutting circles on the bandsaw and then gluing it up, I cut planks, glued them together, then turned the whole block sideways and cut it into a circle on the bandsaw.
> I like this configuration better. It was my first time turing dry wood in this orientation. The way the grain runs, I was able to cut easily from the rim to center, as you norally would for a bowl, or from center to rim, as you would for an end grain turning. I liked that a lot because I could adapt my cut to whatever I was trying to do at any particular moment. Also, I think it made for a very nice finished look.
> 
> In closing today, I wish to make a discaimer.
> In my "lesson of the day" points I make in some of these blog entries, please I hope noone takes these as me knowing what I am doing. I am a beginner. I am still learning this as I go along. If you want good advice, there are millions of turners who have been doing it for decades longer than I.
> I only do the "lesson of the day" bits as a running joke towards a good friend of mine, Randy. I do this because Randy is the only beginning turner; wait, Randy is a future beginning turner. Randy is the only future beginning turner I know personally who may just know a little less than me about the subject.
> 
> Hello Randy. Remember today's lesson. Stay out of the line of fire of spinning bowls.


I've had this happen a few times but luckily I'm still unscathed except for my pride! I turned a bowl once and a piece flew off. I looked for the piece everywhere, even cleaned the shop thoroughly and the piece is still missing! I'm still keeping an eye out for it. Good advice to stay out of line of fire.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Tale Of Two Bowls*
> 
> If you read my blog yesterday, you know I glued up material for two bowls. I got to work on those today.
> Here is the first one, with an interesting result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl is made of glued up layers of pecan and sapelle. That is not the story though.
> If you looked at all closely at the photos yesterday and remember them, you may remember the blank was a bit thicker than that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my lesson of the day for my friend, Randy. Never stand in the line of fire when turning anything that you don't want to potentially hit you. I learned that lesson a while back. So luckily, I seen this piece fly, but did not feel it.
> This is also why I try to glue up two bowl blanks at a time if I'm doing these laminated bowls. If I have one failure, I have another to work with. If I have two failures in one day, it's time to go home and rethink things.
> I'm not sure what happened on this one to be honest with you. Times in the past, when something was destroyed, I had an explanation. On this bowl, everything was going great. There was no catches. Everything was balanced perfectly. I running at a comfortable speed and riding the bevel in on each stroke, looking just like a pro. The light of the second layer of pecan had just peaked through, when the top two layer decided it didn't want to turn anymore. It wanted to fly!
> I had just pulled back my tool rest and planned on shutting the lathe down and get ready to switch to my curved rest to get closer to what I was doing. I seen something go almost striaight up into the rafters of the shop, and land, in the garbage can mind you, about twenty five feet away. I shut the lathe down, walked over to the garbage can, and retrieved these two pieces out.
> Luckily, thanks to the nifty thin parting tool I made thanks to Captain Eddie Castelin's videos, I sliced off things smoothly and just made it a shorter bowl.
> 
> Anyway, a short bowl is quick to turn. So I had enough of the day left to hop right onto the next bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl was made of the same material as the first. It was just turned differently for the glue up. Instead of cutting circles on the bandsaw and then gluing it up, I cut planks, glued them together, then turned the whole block sideways and cut it into a circle on the bandsaw.
> I like this configuration better. It was my first time turing dry wood in this orientation. The way the grain runs, I was able to cut easily from the rim to center, as you norally would for a bowl, or from center to rim, as you would for an end grain turning. I liked that a lot because I could adapt my cut to whatever I was trying to do at any particular moment. Also, I think it made for a very nice finished look.
> 
> In closing today, I wish to make a discaimer.
> In my "lesson of the day" points I make in some of these blog entries, please I hope noone takes these as me knowing what I am doing. I am a beginner. I am still learning this as I go along. If you want good advice, there are millions of turners who have been doing it for decades longer than I.
> I only do the "lesson of the day" bits as a running joke towards a good friend of mine, Randy. I do this because Randy is the only beginning turner; wait, Randy is a future beginning turner. Randy is the only future beginning turner I know personally who may just know a little less than me about the subject.
> 
> Hello Randy. Remember today's lesson. Stay out of the line of fire of spinning bowls.


This is great, I learn by looking over your shoulder (figuratively, of course) and am still at a safe distance!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Tale Of Two Bowls*
> 
> If you read my blog yesterday, you know I glued up material for two bowls. I got to work on those today.
> Here is the first one, with an interesting result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl is made of glued up layers of pecan and sapelle. That is not the story though.
> If you looked at all closely at the photos yesterday and remember them, you may remember the blank was a bit thicker than that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my lesson of the day for my friend, Randy. Never stand in the line of fire when turning anything that you don't want to potentially hit you. I learned that lesson a while back. So luckily, I seen this piece fly, but did not feel it.
> This is also why I try to glue up two bowl blanks at a time if I'm doing these laminated bowls. If I have one failure, I have another to work with. If I have two failures in one day, it's time to go home and rethink things.
> I'm not sure what happened on this one to be honest with you. Times in the past, when something was destroyed, I had an explanation. On this bowl, everything was going great. There was no catches. Everything was balanced perfectly. I running at a comfortable speed and riding the bevel in on each stroke, looking just like a pro. The light of the second layer of pecan had just peaked through, when the top two layer decided it didn't want to turn anymore. It wanted to fly!
> I had just pulled back my tool rest and planned on shutting the lathe down and get ready to switch to my curved rest to get closer to what I was doing. I seen something go almost striaight up into the rafters of the shop, and land, in the garbage can mind you, about twenty five feet away. I shut the lathe down, walked over to the garbage can, and retrieved these two pieces out.
> Luckily, thanks to the nifty thin parting tool I made thanks to Captain Eddie Castelin's videos, I sliced off things smoothly and just made it a shorter bowl.
> 
> Anyway, a short bowl is quick to turn. So I had enough of the day left to hop right onto the next bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl was made of the same material as the first. It was just turned differently for the glue up. Instead of cutting circles on the bandsaw and then gluing it up, I cut planks, glued them together, then turned the whole block sideways and cut it into a circle on the bandsaw.
> I like this configuration better. It was my first time turing dry wood in this orientation. The way the grain runs, I was able to cut easily from the rim to center, as you norally would for a bowl, or from center to rim, as you would for an end grain turning. I liked that a lot because I could adapt my cut to whatever I was trying to do at any particular moment. Also, I think it made for a very nice finished look.
> 
> In closing today, I wish to make a discaimer.
> In my "lesson of the day" points I make in some of these blog entries, please I hope noone takes these as me knowing what I am doing. I am a beginner. I am still learning this as I go along. If you want good advice, there are millions of turners who have been doing it for decades longer than I.
> I only do the "lesson of the day" bits as a running joke towards a good friend of mine, Randy. I do this because Randy is the only beginning turner; wait, Randy is a future beginning turner. Randy is the only future beginning turner I know personally who may just know a little less than me about the subject.
> 
> Hello Randy. Remember today's lesson. Stay out of the line of fire of spinning bowls.


Yea *Marty*, I'm good. I hit the garbage can with it. The lathe has a mind of it's own. Too bad it forgot the heater. broken wood goes in the wood pile, not the garbage can.

*Bearpie*, I've been hit twice now and that was enough for me to learn my lesson. I know I should have learned the first time, but I have a saying; I'll try anything once, twice if it doesn't hurt too bad. 
And if you ever find that piece, let me know. I have a looooooong list of things that are lost in my shop that I need help finding.

*Randy*, randy, randy. Do you ever learn? There's never a "safe" distance from me.
I actually seen my son walk over to watch me work on something once with a face sheild on. Under the face shield was a catcher's mask. He stated, matter of factly, better to be safe than sorry.


----------



## Mip

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Tale Of Two Bowls*
> 
> If you read my blog yesterday, you know I glued up material for two bowls. I got to work on those today.
> Here is the first one, with an interesting result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl is made of glued up layers of pecan and sapelle. That is not the story though.
> If you looked at all closely at the photos yesterday and remember them, you may remember the blank was a bit thicker than that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my lesson of the day for my friend, Randy. Never stand in the line of fire when turning anything that you don't want to potentially hit you. I learned that lesson a while back. So luckily, I seen this piece fly, but did not feel it.
> This is also why I try to glue up two bowl blanks at a time if I'm doing these laminated bowls. If I have one failure, I have another to work with. If I have two failures in one day, it's time to go home and rethink things.
> I'm not sure what happened on this one to be honest with you. Times in the past, when something was destroyed, I had an explanation. On this bowl, everything was going great. There was no catches. Everything was balanced perfectly. I running at a comfortable speed and riding the bevel in on each stroke, looking just like a pro. The light of the second layer of pecan had just peaked through, when the top two layer decided it didn't want to turn anymore. It wanted to fly!
> I had just pulled back my tool rest and planned on shutting the lathe down and get ready to switch to my curved rest to get closer to what I was doing. I seen something go almost striaight up into the rafters of the shop, and land, in the garbage can mind you, about twenty five feet away. I shut the lathe down, walked over to the garbage can, and retrieved these two pieces out.
> Luckily, thanks to the nifty thin parting tool I made thanks to Captain Eddie Castelin's videos, I sliced off things smoothly and just made it a shorter bowl.
> 
> Anyway, a short bowl is quick to turn. So I had enough of the day left to hop right onto the next bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl was made of the same material as the first. It was just turned differently for the glue up. Instead of cutting circles on the bandsaw and then gluing it up, I cut planks, glued them together, then turned the whole block sideways and cut it into a circle on the bandsaw.
> I like this configuration better. It was my first time turing dry wood in this orientation. The way the grain runs, I was able to cut easily from the rim to center, as you norally would for a bowl, or from center to rim, as you would for an end grain turning. I liked that a lot because I could adapt my cut to whatever I was trying to do at any particular moment. Also, I think it made for a very nice finished look.
> 
> In closing today, I wish to make a discaimer.
> In my "lesson of the day" points I make in some of these blog entries, please I hope noone takes these as me knowing what I am doing. I am a beginner. I am still learning this as I go along. If you want good advice, there are millions of turners who have been doing it for decades longer than I.
> I only do the "lesson of the day" bits as a running joke towards a good friend of mine, Randy. I do this because Randy is the only beginning turner; wait, Randy is a future beginning turner. Randy is the only future beginning turner I know personally who may just know a little less than me about the subject.
> 
> Hello Randy. Remember today's lesson. Stay out of the line of fire of spinning bowls.


Glad to know you weren't hurt with these bowls. They still turned out nice. I had a bowl hit me square in the temple and knocked me back a couple of feet. Dropped the chisel and everything. That was awhile back and I have learned some since then.


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Tale Of Two Bowls*
> 
> If you read my blog yesterday, you know I glued up material for two bowls. I got to work on those today.
> Here is the first one, with an interesting result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl is made of glued up layers of pecan and sapelle. That is not the story though.
> If you looked at all closely at the photos yesterday and remember them, you may remember the blank was a bit thicker than that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my lesson of the day for my friend, Randy. Never stand in the line of fire when turning anything that you don't want to potentially hit you. I learned that lesson a while back. So luckily, I seen this piece fly, but did not feel it.
> This is also why I try to glue up two bowl blanks at a time if I'm doing these laminated bowls. If I have one failure, I have another to work with. If I have two failures in one day, it's time to go home and rethink things.
> I'm not sure what happened on this one to be honest with you. Times in the past, when something was destroyed, I had an explanation. On this bowl, everything was going great. There was no catches. Everything was balanced perfectly. I running at a comfortable speed and riding the bevel in on each stroke, looking just like a pro. The light of the second layer of pecan had just peaked through, when the top two layer decided it didn't want to turn anymore. It wanted to fly!
> I had just pulled back my tool rest and planned on shutting the lathe down and get ready to switch to my curved rest to get closer to what I was doing. I seen something go almost striaight up into the rafters of the shop, and land, in the garbage can mind you, about twenty five feet away. I shut the lathe down, walked over to the garbage can, and retrieved these two pieces out.
> Luckily, thanks to the nifty thin parting tool I made thanks to Captain Eddie Castelin's videos, I sliced off things smoothly and just made it a shorter bowl.
> 
> Anyway, a short bowl is quick to turn. So I had enough of the day left to hop right onto the next bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl was made of the same material as the first. It was just turned differently for the glue up. Instead of cutting circles on the bandsaw and then gluing it up, I cut planks, glued them together, then turned the whole block sideways and cut it into a circle on the bandsaw.
> I like this configuration better. It was my first time turing dry wood in this orientation. The way the grain runs, I was able to cut easily from the rim to center, as you norally would for a bowl, or from center to rim, as you would for an end grain turning. I liked that a lot because I could adapt my cut to whatever I was trying to do at any particular moment. Also, I think it made for a very nice finished look.
> 
> In closing today, I wish to make a discaimer.
> In my "lesson of the day" points I make in some of these blog entries, please I hope noone takes these as me knowing what I am doing. I am a beginner. I am still learning this as I go along. If you want good advice, there are millions of turners who have been doing it for decades longer than I.
> I only do the "lesson of the day" bits as a running joke towards a good friend of mine, Randy. I do this because Randy is the only beginning turner; wait, Randy is a future beginning turner. Randy is the only future beginning turner I know personally who may just know a little less than me about the subject.
> 
> Hello Randy. Remember today's lesson. Stay out of the line of fire of spinning bowls.


William that is why I have a wood burning stove, zero rejects.
As long as your ok all is ok.
Your doing great though.
Jamie


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Tale Of Two Bowls*
> 
> If you read my blog yesterday, you know I glued up material for two bowls. I got to work on those today.
> Here is the first one, with an interesting result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl is made of glued up layers of pecan and sapelle. That is not the story though.
> If you looked at all closely at the photos yesterday and remember them, you may remember the blank was a bit thicker than that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my lesson of the day for my friend, Randy. Never stand in the line of fire when turning anything that you don't want to potentially hit you. I learned that lesson a while back. So luckily, I seen this piece fly, but did not feel it.
> This is also why I try to glue up two bowl blanks at a time if I'm doing these laminated bowls. If I have one failure, I have another to work with. If I have two failures in one day, it's time to go home and rethink things.
> I'm not sure what happened on this one to be honest with you. Times in the past, when something was destroyed, I had an explanation. On this bowl, everything was going great. There was no catches. Everything was balanced perfectly. I running at a comfortable speed and riding the bevel in on each stroke, looking just like a pro. The light of the second layer of pecan had just peaked through, when the top two layer decided it didn't want to turn anymore. It wanted to fly!
> I had just pulled back my tool rest and planned on shutting the lathe down and get ready to switch to my curved rest to get closer to what I was doing. I seen something go almost striaight up into the rafters of the shop, and land, in the garbage can mind you, about twenty five feet away. I shut the lathe down, walked over to the garbage can, and retrieved these two pieces out.
> Luckily, thanks to the nifty thin parting tool I made thanks to Captain Eddie Castelin's videos, I sliced off things smoothly and just made it a shorter bowl.
> 
> Anyway, a short bowl is quick to turn. So I had enough of the day left to hop right onto the next bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl was made of the same material as the first. It was just turned differently for the glue up. Instead of cutting circles on the bandsaw and then gluing it up, I cut planks, glued them together, then turned the whole block sideways and cut it into a circle on the bandsaw.
> I like this configuration better. It was my first time turing dry wood in this orientation. The way the grain runs, I was able to cut easily from the rim to center, as you norally would for a bowl, or from center to rim, as you would for an end grain turning. I liked that a lot because I could adapt my cut to whatever I was trying to do at any particular moment. Also, I think it made for a very nice finished look.
> 
> In closing today, I wish to make a discaimer.
> In my "lesson of the day" points I make in some of these blog entries, please I hope noone takes these as me knowing what I am doing. I am a beginner. I am still learning this as I go along. If you want good advice, there are millions of turners who have been doing it for decades longer than I.
> I only do the "lesson of the day" bits as a running joke towards a good friend of mine, Randy. I do this because Randy is the only beginning turner; wait, Randy is a future beginning turner. Randy is the only future beginning turner I know personally who may just know a little less than me about the subject.
> 
> Hello Randy. Remember today's lesson. Stay out of the line of fire of spinning bowls.


*Mip*. I had a cedar bowl slap me right in the middle of the forehead. It was one of the first bowls I ever tried turning. Luckily I have a hard head and it done no permanent damage besides the crack it put in the bowl. Then, after a pecan, a heavy pecan, bowl flew off and hit me, I learned to stay out of the line of fire. If I have to get in line with the spinning bowl for some detail work or something, I now save it at least until I have taken all the weight I possible can off of it.

*Jamie*, I am fine. It was interesting actually. As I just told Mip, this is the third bowl, or large bowl piece, I've had to throw. It is the first time though that it was directly in my line of sight as I was looking. Therefore, I had a great view of the flight path as it came off. It really made me appreciate the power of inertia as we spin wood at high speed. 
That whole ring left off, spun for a split second as the last few fibers tore, went upwards at about a eighty degree angle to the floor, through the rafters (open rafter designed shop), followed the arc of the roofline, slapped off the rafter coming in a dowward spiral and broke in two, and then both pieces, since they lost their momentum when they hit the rafter, fell straight down unto the garbage can.
I retrieved it, not just for photos, but for the wood heater. I keep all scraps, rejects, mistakes, and mishaps. Besides the wood stove for heating the shop, we also do a lot of weiner and marshmellow roasts during the summer month. I let no wood go to waste. If it can't be used for a project, it can be used for warmth and cooking.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Tale Of Two Bowls*
> 
> If you read my blog yesterday, you know I glued up material for two bowls. I got to work on those today.
> Here is the first one, with an interesting result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl is made of glued up layers of pecan and sapelle. That is not the story though.
> If you looked at all closely at the photos yesterday and remember them, you may remember the blank was a bit thicker than that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my lesson of the day for my friend, Randy. Never stand in the line of fire when turning anything that you don't want to potentially hit you. I learned that lesson a while back. So luckily, I seen this piece fly, but did not feel it.
> This is also why I try to glue up two bowl blanks at a time if I'm doing these laminated bowls. If I have one failure, I have another to work with. If I have two failures in one day, it's time to go home and rethink things.
> I'm not sure what happened on this one to be honest with you. Times in the past, when something was destroyed, I had an explanation. On this bowl, everything was going great. There was no catches. Everything was balanced perfectly. I running at a comfortable speed and riding the bevel in on each stroke, looking just like a pro. The light of the second layer of pecan had just peaked through, when the top two layer decided it didn't want to turn anymore. It wanted to fly!
> I had just pulled back my tool rest and planned on shutting the lathe down and get ready to switch to my curved rest to get closer to what I was doing. I seen something go almost striaight up into the rafters of the shop, and land, in the garbage can mind you, about twenty five feet away. I shut the lathe down, walked over to the garbage can, and retrieved these two pieces out.
> Luckily, thanks to the nifty thin parting tool I made thanks to Captain Eddie Castelin's videos, I sliced off things smoothly and just made it a shorter bowl.
> 
> Anyway, a short bowl is quick to turn. So I had enough of the day left to hop right onto the next bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl was made of the same material as the first. It was just turned differently for the glue up. Instead of cutting circles on the bandsaw and then gluing it up, I cut planks, glued them together, then turned the whole block sideways and cut it into a circle on the bandsaw.
> I like this configuration better. It was my first time turing dry wood in this orientation. The way the grain runs, I was able to cut easily from the rim to center, as you norally would for a bowl, or from center to rim, as you would for an end grain turning. I liked that a lot because I could adapt my cut to whatever I was trying to do at any particular moment. Also, I think it made for a very nice finished look.
> 
> In closing today, I wish to make a discaimer.
> In my "lesson of the day" points I make in some of these blog entries, please I hope noone takes these as me knowing what I am doing. I am a beginner. I am still learning this as I go along. If you want good advice, there are millions of turners who have been doing it for decades longer than I.
> I only do the "lesson of the day" bits as a running joke towards a good friend of mine, Randy. I do this because Randy is the only beginning turner; wait, Randy is a future beginning turner. Randy is the only future beginning turner I know personally who may just know a little less than me about the subject.
> 
> Hello Randy. Remember today's lesson. Stay out of the line of fire of spinning bowls.


Oh, I could fill that one with some good choc-chip ice cream


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Tale Of Two Bowls*
> 
> If you read my blog yesterday, you know I glued up material for two bowls. I got to work on those today.
> Here is the first one, with an interesting result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl is made of glued up layers of pecan and sapelle. That is not the story though.
> If you looked at all closely at the photos yesterday and remember them, you may remember the blank was a bit thicker than that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my lesson of the day for my friend, Randy. Never stand in the line of fire when turning anything that you don't want to potentially hit you. I learned that lesson a while back. So luckily, I seen this piece fly, but did not feel it.
> This is also why I try to glue up two bowl blanks at a time if I'm doing these laminated bowls. If I have one failure, I have another to work with. If I have two failures in one day, it's time to go home and rethink things.
> I'm not sure what happened on this one to be honest with you. Times in the past, when something was destroyed, I had an explanation. On this bowl, everything was going great. There was no catches. Everything was balanced perfectly. I running at a comfortable speed and riding the bevel in on each stroke, looking just like a pro. The light of the second layer of pecan had just peaked through, when the top two layer decided it didn't want to turn anymore. It wanted to fly!
> I had just pulled back my tool rest and planned on shutting the lathe down and get ready to switch to my curved rest to get closer to what I was doing. I seen something go almost striaight up into the rafters of the shop, and land, in the garbage can mind you, about twenty five feet away. I shut the lathe down, walked over to the garbage can, and retrieved these two pieces out.
> Luckily, thanks to the nifty thin parting tool I made thanks to Captain Eddie Castelin's videos, I sliced off things smoothly and just made it a shorter bowl.
> 
> Anyway, a short bowl is quick to turn. So I had enough of the day left to hop right onto the next bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl was made of the same material as the first. It was just turned differently for the glue up. Instead of cutting circles on the bandsaw and then gluing it up, I cut planks, glued them together, then turned the whole block sideways and cut it into a circle on the bandsaw.
> I like this configuration better. It was my first time turing dry wood in this orientation. The way the grain runs, I was able to cut easily from the rim to center, as you norally would for a bowl, or from center to rim, as you would for an end grain turning. I liked that a lot because I could adapt my cut to whatever I was trying to do at any particular moment. Also, I think it made for a very nice finished look.
> 
> In closing today, I wish to make a discaimer.
> In my "lesson of the day" points I make in some of these blog entries, please I hope noone takes these as me knowing what I am doing. I am a beginner. I am still learning this as I go along. If you want good advice, there are millions of turners who have been doing it for decades longer than I.
> I only do the "lesson of the day" bits as a running joke towards a good friend of mine, Randy. I do this because Randy is the only beginning turner; wait, Randy is a future beginning turner. Randy is the only future beginning turner I know personally who may just know a little less than me about the subject.
> 
> Hello Randy. Remember today's lesson. Stay out of the line of fire of spinning bowls.


Sorry Roger.
I think these two are going to my Mom's.
I'm glad you seem to like them though. Thank you.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Tale Of Two Bowls*
> 
> If you read my blog yesterday, you know I glued up material for two bowls. I got to work on those today.
> Here is the first one, with an interesting result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl is made of glued up layers of pecan and sapelle. That is not the story though.
> If you looked at all closely at the photos yesterday and remember them, you may remember the blank was a bit thicker than that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my lesson of the day for my friend, Randy. Never stand in the line of fire when turning anything that you don't want to potentially hit you. I learned that lesson a while back. So luckily, I seen this piece fly, but did not feel it.
> This is also why I try to glue up two bowl blanks at a time if I'm doing these laminated bowls. If I have one failure, I have another to work with. If I have two failures in one day, it's time to go home and rethink things.
> I'm not sure what happened on this one to be honest with you. Times in the past, when something was destroyed, I had an explanation. On this bowl, everything was going great. There was no catches. Everything was balanced perfectly. I running at a comfortable speed and riding the bevel in on each stroke, looking just like a pro. The light of the second layer of pecan had just peaked through, when the top two layer decided it didn't want to turn anymore. It wanted to fly!
> I had just pulled back my tool rest and planned on shutting the lathe down and get ready to switch to my curved rest to get closer to what I was doing. I seen something go almost striaight up into the rafters of the shop, and land, in the garbage can mind you, about twenty five feet away. I shut the lathe down, walked over to the garbage can, and retrieved these two pieces out.
> Luckily, thanks to the nifty thin parting tool I made thanks to Captain Eddie Castelin's videos, I sliced off things smoothly and just made it a shorter bowl.
> 
> Anyway, a short bowl is quick to turn. So I had enough of the day left to hop right onto the next bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl was made of the same material as the first. It was just turned differently for the glue up. Instead of cutting circles on the bandsaw and then gluing it up, I cut planks, glued them together, then turned the whole block sideways and cut it into a circle on the bandsaw.
> I like this configuration better. It was my first time turing dry wood in this orientation. The way the grain runs, I was able to cut easily from the rim to center, as you norally would for a bowl, or from center to rim, as you would for an end grain turning. I liked that a lot because I could adapt my cut to whatever I was trying to do at any particular moment. Also, I think it made for a very nice finished look.
> 
> In closing today, I wish to make a discaimer.
> In my "lesson of the day" points I make in some of these blog entries, please I hope noone takes these as me knowing what I am doing. I am a beginner. I am still learning this as I go along. If you want good advice, there are millions of turners who have been doing it for decades longer than I.
> I only do the "lesson of the day" bits as a running joke towards a good friend of mine, Randy. I do this because Randy is the only beginning turner; wait, Randy is a future beginning turner. Randy is the only future beginning turner I know personally who may just know a little less than me about the subject.
> 
> Hello Randy. Remember today's lesson. Stay out of the line of fire of spinning bowls.


William, The bowls turned out very nice BUT I don't need any more convincing; I do not want a lathe! I'd kill myslf for sure. At least the pen turning looks safer!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Tale Of Two Bowls*
> 
> If you read my blog yesterday, you know I glued up material for two bowls. I got to work on those today.
> Here is the first one, with an interesting result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl is made of glued up layers of pecan and sapelle. That is not the story though.
> If you looked at all closely at the photos yesterday and remember them, you may remember the blank was a bit thicker than that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my lesson of the day for my friend, Randy. Never stand in the line of fire when turning anything that you don't want to potentially hit you. I learned that lesson a while back. So luckily, I seen this piece fly, but did not feel it.
> This is also why I try to glue up two bowl blanks at a time if I'm doing these laminated bowls. If I have one failure, I have another to work with. If I have two failures in one day, it's time to go home and rethink things.
> I'm not sure what happened on this one to be honest with you. Times in the past, when something was destroyed, I had an explanation. On this bowl, everything was going great. There was no catches. Everything was balanced perfectly. I running at a comfortable speed and riding the bevel in on each stroke, looking just like a pro. The light of the second layer of pecan had just peaked through, when the top two layer decided it didn't want to turn anymore. It wanted to fly!
> I had just pulled back my tool rest and planned on shutting the lathe down and get ready to switch to my curved rest to get closer to what I was doing. I seen something go almost striaight up into the rafters of the shop, and land, in the garbage can mind you, about twenty five feet away. I shut the lathe down, walked over to the garbage can, and retrieved these two pieces out.
> Luckily, thanks to the nifty thin parting tool I made thanks to Captain Eddie Castelin's videos, I sliced off things smoothly and just made it a shorter bowl.
> 
> Anyway, a short bowl is quick to turn. So I had enough of the day left to hop right onto the next bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl was made of the same material as the first. It was just turned differently for the glue up. Instead of cutting circles on the bandsaw and then gluing it up, I cut planks, glued them together, then turned the whole block sideways and cut it into a circle on the bandsaw.
> I like this configuration better. It was my first time turing dry wood in this orientation. The way the grain runs, I was able to cut easily from the rim to center, as you norally would for a bowl, or from center to rim, as you would for an end grain turning. I liked that a lot because I could adapt my cut to whatever I was trying to do at any particular moment. Also, I think it made for a very nice finished look.
> 
> In closing today, I wish to make a discaimer.
> In my "lesson of the day" points I make in some of these blog entries, please I hope noone takes these as me knowing what I am doing. I am a beginner. I am still learning this as I go along. If you want good advice, there are millions of turners who have been doing it for decades longer than I.
> I only do the "lesson of the day" bits as a running joke towards a good friend of mine, Randy. I do this because Randy is the only beginning turner; wait, Randy is a future beginning turner. Randy is the only future beginning turner I know personally who may just know a little less than me about the subject.
> 
> Hello Randy. Remember today's lesson. Stay out of the line of fire of spinning bowls.


It isn't any more dangerous than farm animals Andy, and I think you work with them. You just stay out of the path where things may fly out and hit you. You know, like not behind a horse.
Don't ask me how I know that one too. Why does a horse always seem to aim for the groin?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Woke Up With An Idea*

Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out. 
Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.








The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
























Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.

Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
























This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks. 
























And this is the bottom.

Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.

I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Woke Up With An Idea*
> 
> Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out.
> Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
> Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.
> 
> Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the bottom.
> 
> Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.
> 
> I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


Sorry yer havin alignment problems but I'll bet you figure it out! What size stock is needed for a pen blank?


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Woke Up With An Idea*
> 
> Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out.
> Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
> Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.
> 
> Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the bottom.
> 
> Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.
> 
> I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


Love the two tone…..


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Woke Up With An Idea*
> 
> Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out.
> Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
> Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.
> 
> Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the bottom.
> 
> Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.
> 
> I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


ahh yes,,,. git er done


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Woke Up With An Idea*
> 
> Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out.
> Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
> Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.
> 
> Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the bottom.
> 
> Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.
> 
> I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


Andy, for a two piece slim line pen, a blank needs to be just a hair over two inches long, times two, one piece for each peace of the pen. Size depends on the size of the pen and how accurate you drill the hole. The smallest I've used so far was a half inch square. 
The cocobolo blanks that come precut are 5/8" square.

Marty, I thought they look nice. I have an idea to evenually work up to about five for six different shades on one pen.

Roger, thank you.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Woke Up With An Idea*
> 
> Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out.
> Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
> Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.
> 
> Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the bottom.
> 
> Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.
> 
> I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


Very cool again William…..so waking up at 2 is not all bad….you remembered the dream…...


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Woke Up With An Idea*
> 
> Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out.
> Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
> Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.
> 
> Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the bottom.
> 
> Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.
> 
> I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


Very nice!


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Woke Up With An Idea*
> 
> Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out.
> Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
> Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.
> 
> Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the bottom.
> 
> Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.
> 
> I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


way to rock and roll today william, i like these a lot.ive had a few problems with oily woods myseld…..use some alcohol and all should be good to go…been a long day, im headed to bed…grizz


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Woke Up With An Idea*
> 
> Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out.
> Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
> Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.
> 
> Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the bottom.
> 
> Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.
> 
> I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


Two Ton William, err that was supposed to be "TONE"!!!

I like the two tone! Still prefer skinny pens, but that's just me.

Do they make a larger diameter ring??? If so, I would like the thicker ones better.

Keep dreaming, experimentimg, turning & succeeding!!!


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Woke Up With An Idea*
> 
> Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out.
> Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
> Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.
> 
> Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the bottom.
> 
> Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.
> 
> I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


William I want you to know my wife was looking at your work on facebook and have very nice things to say. You are doing really nice work. keep it up.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Woke Up With An Idea*
> 
> Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out.
> Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
> Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.
> 
> Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the bottom.
> 
> Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.
> 
> I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


As you say William, your idea might have already been done before, but you came up with it independently, and that is always a good feeling. The results are wonderful and I can't remember seeing these configurations on turned pens before. Fun to watch to create and develop the pen turnings.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Woke Up With An Idea*
> 
> Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out.
> Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
> Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.
> 
> Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the bottom.
> 
> Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.
> 
> I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


William you got that old laith putting out some beautiful pens


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Woke Up With An Idea*
> 
> Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out.
> Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
> Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.
> 
> Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the bottom.
> 
> Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.
> 
> I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


Thank you all.

*Jeff*, I wake up at odd hours often. You know about my back issues. Well sometimes lying in bed, either on my back, or on my side throwing my back out of allignment, is almost as bad as standing on my feet. So I have to break up the sleep cycle from day to night.
What my wife hates is when I sit straight up in bed at two in the morning that wears on my mind so much that I have to get to the shop immediately.

*Grizz*. I am going to have to give that a try. My wife loves cedar on anything she can get made out of it, and it is an oily wood. It may not always feel oily, but that is what gives it it's aroma, is the oils in it.

*Randy*, I like a smooth flow down the length of the pen too. They do make pens that are a tad larger than these slimlines that allow for a ring to be used and still flow, by using a larger center ring. I hope to try those one day too. For now though, I'm still learning technique and ideas. So I'm sticking with cheap pen kits. 
These slim line kits, bought as a bundle package, cost less than two bucks a kit. You can get kits that cover just about any style your mind can imagine. Some of them also cost a helluva lot more than two dollars.

*Dave*, I'm glad she likes them. I will have to make and bring one next time I come your way. I'm going to make here a nice one, and you one from a store bought infill and a trig from the yard.

*Stefang*, I agree. Even when I realize my ideas are from something I've seen before, it still take come creativity to develop them in one's own mind. That makes it fun at the moment you're doing it. I have a few other ideas too. I want to play around with this one for a bit though.

*Eddie*, it is working great. My pen mandrel simply stays put on the Ridgid lathe now. I haven't even taken it off lately. If I need to turn something besides a pen I use the other lathe.


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Woke Up With An Idea*
> 
> Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out.
> Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
> Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.
> 
> Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the bottom.
> 
> Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.
> 
> I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


William it looks really good, I've not seen it done before.
Dedicated lathes are the solution, I've 5 all ready for action.
Well I have to clear of the tops to use them'
jamie


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Woke Up With An Idea*
> 
> Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out.
> Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
> Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.
> 
> Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the bottom.
> 
> Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.
> 
> I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


I agree about the dedicated lathe. 
I I had the money I would have several more lathes built for several different purposes.
I do hope to one day gather everything I need to build my own dedicated bowl lathe.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Woke Up With An Idea*
> 
> Do any of you wake up with an idea? Almost like it came to you in a dream? I can't say it did, because I can never actually remember my dreams, but I woke up this morning with an idea that was driving me absolutely nuts. I couldn't wait to try it out.
> Now, I'm not saying that this idea is completely original. I often have brilliant ideas sometimes that I realize much later that I had seen somewhere and must have just tucked it away somewhere deep in my subconscious. As I like to say, there's nothing new under the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea has to do with angles. These are the blanks for the first two test subjects. I many variations of this idea on my mind though by simply changing the angle and configuration of which those angled pieces are arranged to glue up.
> Before I could start that though, and while I was waiting for the glue to set on these, and the tubes after I glued them in, I had to complete a blank I had glued tubes into yesterday evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may be wondering why I am back to using center rings. I am having alignment issues with some of the pens that I have traced back to alignment issues with my lathe. I have got to figure out a good way to get that issue resolved. I thought I had it solved, but it is back. If I cannot get it permenantly resolved, I am going to have to order a #2 morse taper mandrel so I can use on my larger lathe, which is much more predictably accurate. I am happy doing this for now though. If nothing else it is allowing me to practice and cultivate ideas like I've done today.
> 
> Then is was on to the test subjects of today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the top glue up in the photo of the blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the bottom.
> 
> Both of these are pecan and walnut. I liked them and am ready to move on with some other versions of this idea.
> 
> I had a notion to make some out of cedar and box elder. So I glued them up and went to the house for a while. I went back later to drill the holes and glue the tubes in. When I removed the clamps though, the cedar glueups almost fell apart. I think it has something to do with the oils in cedar and my attempt of using super glue with it. I may try this again at a later date with cedar, but for now, I think I'll stick with less oily woods.


Now William there is no need. Sell them thangs and get you some tool money.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Failure Is Not An Option*

I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.

My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".

Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.

If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
















First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
























This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months. 
Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers. 
So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank. 
















No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry. 
This one is also box edler with sapelle.
























Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine. 
It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


----------



## ShaneA

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


Nice, remarkable and quick progress. Hard to imagine what you will be working on in a month or two based on how far and fast your skill has advanced.


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


They just keep gettin' better…..


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


Those designs are AMAZING!!!

Loved the Uncle J.C. story. Thanks for sharing your life experiences!!!

Do you take any pictures of the blanks during/after glue ups? I would be interested in seeing a "Before" picture of a blank & then an "after" picture of the turning.

Keep playing, it works!!!


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


Sounds like Uncle JC was a great man
William those pens are awesome, you have some great ideas
keep them coming
Jamie


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


Loved the "uncle JC" story! Are you after a Celtic Knot design? I like all of your latest but the narrow waist I like less than your fatter ones. (if that makes any sense)


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


You are getting the Celtic Knot pattern perfected, William. A little steeper angle will elongate the pattern more.
Nice Job!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


Thank you all.

*Shane*, thank you. I don't know what I'll be working on in a month either. It'll be either better or worse though. That's all I know for sure.

*Marty*, thank you.

*Randy*, I do take photos often, but I'm afraid I did not take photos of these because I had no idea how they were going to turn out. 
The cross one is simple enough to duplicate. 
The double S pattern I couldn't duplicate again except by pure chance.
The last one, by the time you get your lathe set up I will have gotten it down to perfect enough that I'm happy with and write a blog with plenty of in progress photos just for you.

*Jamie*, thank you. That means a lot coming from you. Sometimes my ideas don't make a bit of sense, but noone can say I don't try anyway.

*Andy*, I am not sure, but Celtic knot may be the name of it. That does sound familiar. 
I understand exactly what you're saying. The long and slender pen I done today would not be my first choice either. In the end though, I am also trying to have enough of a wide variety of styles, sizes and shapes to satisfy anyone who may wish to buy a pen. I can't make them all only to my likeing, because I seldom use a pen anyway. My writing is usually done with a carpenter's pencil on a scrap piece of wood.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


There you go Andy. Lew calls it a celtic knot as well. So I guess that's the name of it.
Thank you Lew.

*Lew*, thank you. I have been trying to play with varying the angle some just to see what effects I get. The first few off center circles (that's what I'm calling them until I think of something better) I made were done at a forty five degree angle.
Just as a mean of testing, the celtic knot (as we now know to call it) was done on a thirty degree angle.


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


When you make the cut for your inlay (sapele), don't cut completely thru the blank- leave about 1/32" of elder holding the pieces together. Glue in the sapele. Rotate the blank and repeat- again leaving the 1/32" of elder holding the blank together. 
This trick was given to me by another Lumberjock when I was trying to develop my rolling pins. Doing it this way assures the segments of the "knot" stay lined up where they cross.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


I'm impressed William! Very much impressed! Have you tried gluing one layer at a time instead of trying to do it all at once and everything gets to slipping and sliding? When I work with segmented bowls/vases this is what I have to do! Doing too much at a time ruins it so try a bit of patience! Good worthwhile things sometimes take a good bit of time. Sometimes you can do several things at a time when you work this way, then they seem to all come done at the same time. What have you got to lose but time?


----------



## Ken90712

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


Great story of JC and way to go! great looking pens!!!! I think that is one thing in common with alot of us Fellow LJ's on here. We never give up and Can't is not something we think of.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


Lew, I tried to describe that the best I could in the blog entry. I figured out about not cutting all the way through, leaving some wood to hold the blank together. This is a big help that will allow me to try all kinds of configurations. 
Two other ideas I have though may take days to get everything glued up and ready.
1. A pen with the off center ring, but with so many with different species of wood that it'll be hard to tell where one ends and the other begins. This sounds like it would look wild, but I think it would be a very interesting piece.
2. I seen this once with a cutting board, but I am thinking with pieces for a pen blank. Rip, flip glue. Then, rip the other way, flip glue. Keep doing this until you have square, and none of them over about an eighth of an inch. This will mean a lot of flipping and gluing. I think I could get two or three flip and glueups a day, and maye start with about five different species in the beginning. That may be a very interesting pen.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


Bearpie. I have absolutely thought of gluing one inlaid piece at a time. This would take days of course to get some of the designs I'm wanting to do. This will be the way to go in the future, after I've really learned what I can expect from different configurations. 
At the time though, it just seems to frustrating for me to wait for glue to dry on some pieces just to find out what it'll look like. For example, the last pen with the celtic cross, it has five different strips of sapelle in it.
Another advantage I have found is using the gorilla glue. It takes longer to cure, but sets quicker to allow me to move to the next insert. The allows me to put the inserts in in less time. I just have to wait longer before turning after getting it all together. It's a trade off.

I have a confession to make as well. I could always find something else to do while some of this is drying. I'm getting ready to go out of town though for a few days. I REALLY wanted a couple of these ideas experimented before leaving so I could carry some of the pens with these ideas on them with me. So my impatiance with these glue ups have been for purely selfish reasons. I will have more time after the trip, especially since my turning is soon going to be an aside to a new project I must get started on. 
That's right. After my trip I have a non turning project I must start on. Ya'll may get a break from me talking pens every day.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


Ken. Thank you.
I respect that about a lot of Lumberjocks. I remember when I first joined this site how overwhelmed I was (still am sometimes) at the amazing talent, but also the amazing amount of time some guys (and gals) here have in their projects.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


You have been on the move. Getting very creative with these fine writing utensils. Lookin gr8. I know yer havin a blast


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


Thank you Roger. It has been fun. I have more ideas coming in the near future.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


Nice and fitting tribute to your uncle William. You are progressing at lightning speed with your pen designs. These new ones really look great!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


Thank you Mike.


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


Here's an idea. I saw this rolling pin and still haven't quite figured out how it was done. The knot was easy but the "field" was made up of several different woods. As it was rotated, none of the different field woods lined up. Mite make an interesting pen design-

























Just something to add to your frustrations!


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Failure Is Not An Option*
> 
> I have been complimented on my "never say die" attitude in the past by fellow Lumberjocks. That perserverence helped me get to where I wanted to be today, but it made me want to share with my friends about my Uncle J.C.
> 
> My Uncle J.C. was one of the men who helped raise me. He was a twenty three year military veteran. In my eyes, he was what a real man was. He was a hard nosed, gun toting, take no crap off noone kind of guy, who also taught me how to sew, cook, iron clothes, do housework, and to always have a kind heart. He taught me to live off the land, hunt, fish, garden, field dress any animal, and what berries and roots to eat if you had no animal to eat. Then he turned right around and taught me to love, laugh, and to care for your fellow man. Anytime I think of giving up on anything though, even though he passed on years ago, I can still hear him in my ear, "can't never could boy. Failure is not an option. Now try again. If you still don't get it, keep trying until you do".
> 
> Anyway, story time is over. I just felt a need for some reason to share that.
> 
> If you seen the angular approach of yesterday, I think it looked nice. As a matter of fact, after seeing the results, I have a hard time looking at a single wood pen the same now. How can I when I know that adding other colors can make such a dramatic difference. I'm sure that I'll do plain pens too, but for now, I want to play with these ideas some more. It may take a while, but I have to see where it leads me.
> From the start today, I had an idea of what I wanted. I could see it in my head. I have no idea what the design is called though. I have seen the design on pens before, but just didn't know exactly how to accomplish it. I am sure a little internet research would probably have netted me several step by step articles on how to get there, but where is the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I had to do was to turn the blank I had prepared yesterday evening before leaving the shop. I felt it wasn't on the path to what I was after, but I felt it was still too nice a design to scrap at this point. This one is walnut with box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder with sapelle. It is nothing like what I am trying to do. It did look good to me though. So I felt it was a keeper.
> Then it was on to moving more towards what I am trying to do. I had several failed glueups in a row. I figured out that gluing these thin strips in line was causing issues. It was just too hard to keep everything lines with you get more than one or two strips. I thought this one out and realized that, since it was to be turned down in size, that I didn't need to cut my angles all the way through the wood. Cutting a certain depth into my blanks, and then turning down, gives me something to keep the complete blank in line, and turns out the same on the lathe. This also made me realize that this idea opens up a whole new world of possibilites that may keep my mind going for months.
> Next problem I had was glue. I had been using super glue. Again, this was fine with one or two strips. Past that though and things start to get messy. Everything wants to slide around and I'd accidentally touch recently glued surfaces. This stuff take a bit to set up on wood, but does so instantly on fingers.
> I tried several glues on test pieces and settle on some new type of Gorilla Glue that I'd bought a while back. It is the type that expands. This fills in any gaps I may get, and it shows up almost instantly so I can be more careful to not get it on my fingers.
> So away I went with my idea. I was feeling real confident and decided I'd use all these fresh ideas on a piece of that beautiful cocobolo I recently got.
> Oops. Another mistake. This one had nothing to do with the problems I'd been having with everyhting else. It had everything to do with I just messed up. I took too big a bite while cutting down close to the tube and broke the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is not exactly what I was going for either. This was just a different idea I had while waiting for glue on a more complex clamped blank to dry.
> This one is also box edler with sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder and sapelle again. There is a name for this design, but I don't know what it is. This is what I had been trying to do all day. I know some of you may think that is funny, because it is a rather simple design. Without instruction though, it is hard sometimes for me to vision exactly what a design on a squared blank will look like once turned. So, trying to accomplish a certain look by guessing how to get that from a squared blank, is a head scratcher sometimes. Through trial and error though, I think you could possibly get any design you could possibly imagine.
> It's all fun and games until you run out of pen kits. That reminds me. I need to sell some more of these pens so I can order more pen kits. I'm starting to run low.


Your Uncle J.C. was a wise and good man and I can see where you get your determination from!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*One Step Forward......*

I have an opinion of wood working in general. If you're not constantly learning something new, then you're doing something wrong. I think that's what I'm enjoying so much about this wood turning. It always seems to be one step forward and two steps back in the learning process. I am consistently unhappy with the pens I've been turning. If I get to where I'm almost happy with the results, I add something new to the scenario to keep the learning curve high. That's the way I like it. 
So anyway, I haven't been able to do nearly as much as I'd like in the shop during the past week. I just haven't been up to it. So I fiddle around as much as I can, and this post is simply the learning I've been doing lately.








This first pen is my latest attempt at a Celtic cross. It still isn't right, but I am getting closer. I understand the process now. The largest problem I'm having is gluing. I have been trying different glues and am having mixed results. I read online that a lot of people use quick setting glues and that is great. For me though, I think I need to move backwards and go back to a slower setting glue, like maybe Titebond II. I may go back with the quicker setting stuff later, but for now I think having more time to fiddle with the piece before everything is set will work better for me.
This pen was not a total waste though. My wife loves it. It is made of purple heart with box elder. So I let her have it. Who am I kidding? She can have anything she wants.
My other problem is what I worked on mostly this week though. I've been using a concoction recipe of finishes that produced some nice results, but I'm also looking for something more durable on these pens. The obvious solution, based on everything I've read, is CA glue. So I was determined to learn to consistently apply a CA glue finish.
The above pen turned out ok, but not great by a long shot. If you look closely just below the middle band, you'll see some ghosting effect. I think several things caused that on this particular pen. For one thing, I am trying several different thicknesses of glue. This one was my experiment with medium consistency glue. I have since learned that I have much better luck using the thinnest glue and applying multiple extremely thin coats instead of heavier coats. It's much like painting. 
Anytime I learn something new, I try it on scrap wood before trying another actual pen. So after practicing on scrap, I moved on to my next pen where my next problem became apparent.








This pen is made of ziricote. It is a beautiful wood. I actually probably shouldn't have even been using this particular wood for something that I know I haven't gotten perfected yet, but I couldn't help myself. You see, a good friend sent this wood to me. In a box of a lot of other blanks, I had twelve blanks of this beautiful wood. Ever since I first laid eyes on it, I just have been itching to see what it looked like finished. 
Working with thinner coats of glue, I was real happy with the finish on this pen. I was quite pleased with myself. Then I removed the pen blanks from the lathe and wasn't so happy anymore. Sometimes, I have a problem with the bushings sticking to the blanks when using a CA glue finish. If you look closely above the center band on this pen, you'll notice a chip. The bushings usually pop right off, but this is what sometimes happens in the process. It chips that glass like finish. 








So after putting some thought into a solution, I came up with this. I took the tube from a pen I had messed up on. I used a tubing cutter and sliced it into three pieces. Then, after turning the pen blanks, I removed them from the mandrel and placed these thinner spacers on each end and in between the blanks. My thinking was that, with these being thinner, even if it chipped the finish it would be hidden on the ends by hardware instead of being visible on the sides. 
I would love to tell you how great this brilliant idea worked. Unfortunately, I did not take something else into account when I came up with it.
The thin pieces of tubing allowed a tiny bit of glue to seep far enough between them and the blanks that it basically glued the blanks to the mandrel shaft. I won't even start to tell the story of what it took to get them off. It took about two hours and several ideas to get that little task accomplished without damaging the shaft. Luckily, I did not damage the shaft or the blanks. The short pieces of tubing went immediately into the garbage though, along with my great idea.








I told you I saved the blanks.
This is another piece of ziricote. I love how different pieces of this wood have completely unique appearances. It's hard to believe that this blank and the one from the previous pen looked identical before turning them. 
So I turned to my best friend for a solution, Google. I read through a lot of ideas for not gluing the bushings to the pen blanks before I came across one that I thought would work and was simple enough to do consistently. The idea was to put wax on the bushings.








This is a cocobolo pen. The wax idea worked. I am getting more and more confident on my CA glue finish. Actually, I must admit that others I have talked to were right. Once you start to get the hang of this type of finish, it is easier, quicker, and looked better than any other finish I have tried. I still need practice of course, but this is my new pen finish of choice.
That brings me to my next problem.
If you look real close at this pen, it has a new problem, and it is something I am noticing more and more. It is just above the center band. Don't ask me how most of my problems happen at the center band, right where they're most visible. Things just have been working out that way for me. If you look just above the band on this pen though, you may notice it has a tiny gap. That is from the blank not being square to the tube when I started.
They make a tool to square the blanks to the tube called a barrel trimmer. I just don't like it. I have tried it. It didn't work good. I sharpened it. It still didn't work good. I think part of the problem is that I like hard woods. I have noticed that it works flawlessly on softer woods. When I try it on hard woods though, like cocobolo or purple heart, I always get chip out that looks worse than the gap. I need a better way. 
So I have a new brilliant idea to combat this problem. I hope to work on that soon and will show you my solution, whether it works good or not. The worst that can happen is I learn something new, and isn't that what it's all about?


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *One Step Forward......*
> 
> I have an opinion of wood working in general. If you're not constantly learning something new, then you're doing something wrong. I think that's what I'm enjoying so much about this wood turning. It always seems to be one step forward and two steps back in the learning process. I am consistently unhappy with the pens I've been turning. If I get to where I'm almost happy with the results, I add something new to the scenario to keep the learning curve high. That's the way I like it.
> So anyway, I haven't been able to do nearly as much as I'd like in the shop during the past week. I just haven't been up to it. So I fiddle around as much as I can, and this post is simply the learning I've been doing lately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This first pen is my latest attempt at a Celtic cross. It still isn't right, but I am getting closer. I understand the process now. The largest problem I'm having is gluing. I have been trying different glues and am having mixed results. I read online that a lot of people use quick setting glues and that is great. For me though, I think I need to move backwards and go back to a slower setting glue, like maybe Titebond II. I may go back with the quicker setting stuff later, but for now I think having more time to fiddle with the piece before everything is set will work better for me.
> This pen was not a total waste though. My wife loves it. It is made of purple heart with box elder. So I let her have it. Who am I kidding? She can have anything she wants.
> My other problem is what I worked on mostly this week though. I've been using a concoction recipe of finishes that produced some nice results, but I'm also looking for something more durable on these pens. The obvious solution, based on everything I've read, is CA glue. So I was determined to learn to consistently apply a CA glue finish.
> The above pen turned out ok, but not great by a long shot. If you look closely just below the middle band, you'll see some ghosting effect. I think several things caused that on this particular pen. For one thing, I am trying several different thicknesses of glue. This one was my experiment with medium consistency glue. I have since learned that I have much better luck using the thinnest glue and applying multiple extremely thin coats instead of heavier coats. It's much like painting.
> Anytime I learn something new, I try it on scrap wood before trying another actual pen. So after practicing on scrap, I moved on to my next pen where my next problem became apparent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This pen is made of ziricote. It is a beautiful wood. I actually probably shouldn't have even been using this particular wood for something that I know I haven't gotten perfected yet, but I couldn't help myself. You see, a good friend sent this wood to me. In a box of a lot of other blanks, I had twelve blanks of this beautiful wood. Ever since I first laid eyes on it, I just have been itching to see what it looked like finished.
> Working with thinner coats of glue, I was real happy with the finish on this pen. I was quite pleased with myself. Then I removed the pen blanks from the lathe and wasn't so happy anymore. Sometimes, I have a problem with the bushings sticking to the blanks when using a CA glue finish. If you look closely above the center band on this pen, you'll notice a chip. The bushings usually pop right off, but this is what sometimes happens in the process. It chips that glass like finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after putting some thought into a solution, I came up with this. I took the tube from a pen I had messed up on. I used a tubing cutter and sliced it into three pieces. Then, after turning the pen blanks, I removed them from the mandrel and placed these thinner spacers on each end and in between the blanks. My thinking was that, with these being thinner, even if it chipped the finish it would be hidden on the ends by hardware instead of being visible on the sides.
> I would love to tell you how great this brilliant idea worked. Unfortunately, I did not take something else into account when I came up with it.
> The thin pieces of tubing allowed a tiny bit of glue to seep far enough between them and the blanks that it basically glued the blanks to the mandrel shaft. I won't even start to tell the story of what it took to get them off. It took about two hours and several ideas to get that little task accomplished without damaging the shaft. Luckily, I did not damage the shaft or the blanks. The short pieces of tubing went immediately into the garbage though, along with my great idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I told you I saved the blanks.
> This is another piece of ziricote. I love how different pieces of this wood have completely unique appearances. It's hard to believe that this blank and the one from the previous pen looked identical before turning them.
> So I turned to my best friend for a solution, Google. I read through a lot of ideas for not gluing the bushings to the pen blanks before I came across one that I thought would work and was simple enough to do consistently. The idea was to put wax on the bushings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a cocobolo pen. The wax idea worked. I am getting more and more confident on my CA glue finish. Actually, I must admit that others I have talked to were right. Once you start to get the hang of this type of finish, it is easier, quicker, and looked better than any other finish I have tried. I still need practice of course, but this is my new pen finish of choice.
> That brings me to my next problem.
> If you look real close at this pen, it has a new problem, and it is something I am noticing more and more. It is just above the center band. Don't ask me how most of my problems happen at the center band, right where they're most visible. Things just have been working out that way for me. If you look just above the band on this pen though, you may notice it has a tiny gap. That is from the blank not being square to the tube when I started.
> They make a tool to square the blanks to the tube called a barrel trimmer. I just don't like it. I have tried it. It didn't work good. I sharpened it. It still didn't work good. I think part of the problem is that I like hard woods. I have noticed that it works flawlessly on softer woods. When I try it on hard woods though, like cocobolo or purple heart, I always get chip out that looks worse than the gap. I need a better way.
> So I have a new brilliant idea to combat this problem. I hope to work on that soon and will show you my solution, whether it works good or not. The worst that can happen is I learn something new, and isn't that what it's all about?


Those are the nicest "screwed up" pens I have seen! The exotic woods are a bit different to work with…...and I'm guessing that ziricote is quite oily…....


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *One Step Forward......*
> 
> I have an opinion of wood working in general. If you're not constantly learning something new, then you're doing something wrong. I think that's what I'm enjoying so much about this wood turning. It always seems to be one step forward and two steps back in the learning process. I am consistently unhappy with the pens I've been turning. If I get to where I'm almost happy with the results, I add something new to the scenario to keep the learning curve high. That's the way I like it.
> So anyway, I haven't been able to do nearly as much as I'd like in the shop during the past week. I just haven't been up to it. So I fiddle around as much as I can, and this post is simply the learning I've been doing lately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This first pen is my latest attempt at a Celtic cross. It still isn't right, but I am getting closer. I understand the process now. The largest problem I'm having is gluing. I have been trying different glues and am having mixed results. I read online that a lot of people use quick setting glues and that is great. For me though, I think I need to move backwards and go back to a slower setting glue, like maybe Titebond II. I may go back with the quicker setting stuff later, but for now I think having more time to fiddle with the piece before everything is set will work better for me.
> This pen was not a total waste though. My wife loves it. It is made of purple heart with box elder. So I let her have it. Who am I kidding? She can have anything she wants.
> My other problem is what I worked on mostly this week though. I've been using a concoction recipe of finishes that produced some nice results, but I'm also looking for something more durable on these pens. The obvious solution, based on everything I've read, is CA glue. So I was determined to learn to consistently apply a CA glue finish.
> The above pen turned out ok, but not great by a long shot. If you look closely just below the middle band, you'll see some ghosting effect. I think several things caused that on this particular pen. For one thing, I am trying several different thicknesses of glue. This one was my experiment with medium consistency glue. I have since learned that I have much better luck using the thinnest glue and applying multiple extremely thin coats instead of heavier coats. It's much like painting.
> Anytime I learn something new, I try it on scrap wood before trying another actual pen. So after practicing on scrap, I moved on to my next pen where my next problem became apparent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This pen is made of ziricote. It is a beautiful wood. I actually probably shouldn't have even been using this particular wood for something that I know I haven't gotten perfected yet, but I couldn't help myself. You see, a good friend sent this wood to me. In a box of a lot of other blanks, I had twelve blanks of this beautiful wood. Ever since I first laid eyes on it, I just have been itching to see what it looked like finished.
> Working with thinner coats of glue, I was real happy with the finish on this pen. I was quite pleased with myself. Then I removed the pen blanks from the lathe and wasn't so happy anymore. Sometimes, I have a problem with the bushings sticking to the blanks when using a CA glue finish. If you look closely above the center band on this pen, you'll notice a chip. The bushings usually pop right off, but this is what sometimes happens in the process. It chips that glass like finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after putting some thought into a solution, I came up with this. I took the tube from a pen I had messed up on. I used a tubing cutter and sliced it into three pieces. Then, after turning the pen blanks, I removed them from the mandrel and placed these thinner spacers on each end and in between the blanks. My thinking was that, with these being thinner, even if it chipped the finish it would be hidden on the ends by hardware instead of being visible on the sides.
> I would love to tell you how great this brilliant idea worked. Unfortunately, I did not take something else into account when I came up with it.
> The thin pieces of tubing allowed a tiny bit of glue to seep far enough between them and the blanks that it basically glued the blanks to the mandrel shaft. I won't even start to tell the story of what it took to get them off. It took about two hours and several ideas to get that little task accomplished without damaging the shaft. Luckily, I did not damage the shaft or the blanks. The short pieces of tubing went immediately into the garbage though, along with my great idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I told you I saved the blanks.
> This is another piece of ziricote. I love how different pieces of this wood have completely unique appearances. It's hard to believe that this blank and the one from the previous pen looked identical before turning them.
> So I turned to my best friend for a solution, Google. I read through a lot of ideas for not gluing the bushings to the pen blanks before I came across one that I thought would work and was simple enough to do consistently. The idea was to put wax on the bushings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a cocobolo pen. The wax idea worked. I am getting more and more confident on my CA glue finish. Actually, I must admit that others I have talked to were right. Once you start to get the hang of this type of finish, it is easier, quicker, and looked better than any other finish I have tried. I still need practice of course, but this is my new pen finish of choice.
> That brings me to my next problem.
> If you look real close at this pen, it has a new problem, and it is something I am noticing more and more. It is just above the center band. Don't ask me how most of my problems happen at the center band, right where they're most visible. Things just have been working out that way for me. If you look just above the band on this pen though, you may notice it has a tiny gap. That is from the blank not being square to the tube when I started.
> They make a tool to square the blanks to the tube called a barrel trimmer. I just don't like it. I have tried it. It didn't work good. I sharpened it. It still didn't work good. I think part of the problem is that I like hard woods. I have noticed that it works flawlessly on softer woods. When I try it on hard woods though, like cocobolo or purple heart, I always get chip out that looks worse than the gap. I need a better way.
> So I have a new brilliant idea to combat this problem. I hope to work on that soon and will show you my solution, whether it works good or not. The worst that can happen is I learn something new, and isn't that what it's all about?


The darker one was oily Jeff. I had to clean it good with alcohol before putting any type of finish on it. I have to do that often with cocobolo though. That's one more things I have leanred the hard way. Always check these exotics by rubbing them to see how oily they are. If there is much oil in them, alcohol dries it up quickly for finish. Interestingly to me, I have to clean aromatic cedar the same way sometimes before it'll take a good finish of I want a shine to it. 
Now of course, wax is an alternative to this. I find I can get a shine from wax on pretty much anything. However, for something like pens, wax alone is not going to last.

Thank you for the complement. I've had several people tell me they are nice. I'm at a point in the game though where any imperfections stick out like sore thumb to me. So, in my opinion, these pens look like crap. I'm getting there though. I have several buddies (hint) that I wish to send pens to when I get to where I'm satisified that they're good enough to give.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *One Step Forward......*
> 
> I have an opinion of wood working in general. If you're not constantly learning something new, then you're doing something wrong. I think that's what I'm enjoying so much about this wood turning. It always seems to be one step forward and two steps back in the learning process. I am consistently unhappy with the pens I've been turning. If I get to where I'm almost happy with the results, I add something new to the scenario to keep the learning curve high. That's the way I like it.
> So anyway, I haven't been able to do nearly as much as I'd like in the shop during the past week. I just haven't been up to it. So I fiddle around as much as I can, and this post is simply the learning I've been doing lately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This first pen is my latest attempt at a Celtic cross. It still isn't right, but I am getting closer. I understand the process now. The largest problem I'm having is gluing. I have been trying different glues and am having mixed results. I read online that a lot of people use quick setting glues and that is great. For me though, I think I need to move backwards and go back to a slower setting glue, like maybe Titebond II. I may go back with the quicker setting stuff later, but for now I think having more time to fiddle with the piece before everything is set will work better for me.
> This pen was not a total waste though. My wife loves it. It is made of purple heart with box elder. So I let her have it. Who am I kidding? She can have anything she wants.
> My other problem is what I worked on mostly this week though. I've been using a concoction recipe of finishes that produced some nice results, but I'm also looking for something more durable on these pens. The obvious solution, based on everything I've read, is CA glue. So I was determined to learn to consistently apply a CA glue finish.
> The above pen turned out ok, but not great by a long shot. If you look closely just below the middle band, you'll see some ghosting effect. I think several things caused that on this particular pen. For one thing, I am trying several different thicknesses of glue. This one was my experiment with medium consistency glue. I have since learned that I have much better luck using the thinnest glue and applying multiple extremely thin coats instead of heavier coats. It's much like painting.
> Anytime I learn something new, I try it on scrap wood before trying another actual pen. So after practicing on scrap, I moved on to my next pen where my next problem became apparent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This pen is made of ziricote. It is a beautiful wood. I actually probably shouldn't have even been using this particular wood for something that I know I haven't gotten perfected yet, but I couldn't help myself. You see, a good friend sent this wood to me. In a box of a lot of other blanks, I had twelve blanks of this beautiful wood. Ever since I first laid eyes on it, I just have been itching to see what it looked like finished.
> Working with thinner coats of glue, I was real happy with the finish on this pen. I was quite pleased with myself. Then I removed the pen blanks from the lathe and wasn't so happy anymore. Sometimes, I have a problem with the bushings sticking to the blanks when using a CA glue finish. If you look closely above the center band on this pen, you'll notice a chip. The bushings usually pop right off, but this is what sometimes happens in the process. It chips that glass like finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after putting some thought into a solution, I came up with this. I took the tube from a pen I had messed up on. I used a tubing cutter and sliced it into three pieces. Then, after turning the pen blanks, I removed them from the mandrel and placed these thinner spacers on each end and in between the blanks. My thinking was that, with these being thinner, even if it chipped the finish it would be hidden on the ends by hardware instead of being visible on the sides.
> I would love to tell you how great this brilliant idea worked. Unfortunately, I did not take something else into account when I came up with it.
> The thin pieces of tubing allowed a tiny bit of glue to seep far enough between them and the blanks that it basically glued the blanks to the mandrel shaft. I won't even start to tell the story of what it took to get them off. It took about two hours and several ideas to get that little task accomplished without damaging the shaft. Luckily, I did not damage the shaft or the blanks. The short pieces of tubing went immediately into the garbage though, along with my great idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I told you I saved the blanks.
> This is another piece of ziricote. I love how different pieces of this wood have completely unique appearances. It's hard to believe that this blank and the one from the previous pen looked identical before turning them.
> So I turned to my best friend for a solution, Google. I read through a lot of ideas for not gluing the bushings to the pen blanks before I came across one that I thought would work and was simple enough to do consistently. The idea was to put wax on the bushings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a cocobolo pen. The wax idea worked. I am getting more and more confident on my CA glue finish. Actually, I must admit that others I have talked to were right. Once you start to get the hang of this type of finish, it is easier, quicker, and looked better than any other finish I have tried. I still need practice of course, but this is my new pen finish of choice.
> That brings me to my next problem.
> If you look real close at this pen, it has a new problem, and it is something I am noticing more and more. It is just above the center band. Don't ask me how most of my problems happen at the center band, right where they're most visible. Things just have been working out that way for me. If you look just above the band on this pen though, you may notice it has a tiny gap. That is from the blank not being square to the tube when I started.
> They make a tool to square the blanks to the tube called a barrel trimmer. I just don't like it. I have tried it. It didn't work good. I sharpened it. It still didn't work good. I think part of the problem is that I like hard woods. I have noticed that it works flawlessly on softer woods. When I try it on hard woods though, like cocobolo or purple heart, I always get chip out that looks worse than the gap. I need a better way.
> So I have a new brilliant idea to combat this problem. I hope to work on that soon and will show you my solution, whether it works good or not. The worst that can happen is I learn something new, and isn't that what it's all about?


They all look pretty darned good to me William. It's a good thing when you are not satisfied with your results. It motivates you to reach higher and higher until you become very good at it. And then, if you are like me, you turn to some other type of work. That means you are always somewhere between incompetent and highly skilled. I'm usually at the lower end of that scale, but what the heck, it's the experimenting and learning that's the real fun!


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *One Step Forward......*
> 
> I have an opinion of wood working in general. If you're not constantly learning something new, then you're doing something wrong. I think that's what I'm enjoying so much about this wood turning. It always seems to be one step forward and two steps back in the learning process. I am consistently unhappy with the pens I've been turning. If I get to where I'm almost happy with the results, I add something new to the scenario to keep the learning curve high. That's the way I like it.
> So anyway, I haven't been able to do nearly as much as I'd like in the shop during the past week. I just haven't been up to it. So I fiddle around as much as I can, and this post is simply the learning I've been doing lately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This first pen is my latest attempt at a Celtic cross. It still isn't right, but I am getting closer. I understand the process now. The largest problem I'm having is gluing. I have been trying different glues and am having mixed results. I read online that a lot of people use quick setting glues and that is great. For me though, I think I need to move backwards and go back to a slower setting glue, like maybe Titebond II. I may go back with the quicker setting stuff later, but for now I think having more time to fiddle with the piece before everything is set will work better for me.
> This pen was not a total waste though. My wife loves it. It is made of purple heart with box elder. So I let her have it. Who am I kidding? She can have anything she wants.
> My other problem is what I worked on mostly this week though. I've been using a concoction recipe of finishes that produced some nice results, but I'm also looking for something more durable on these pens. The obvious solution, based on everything I've read, is CA glue. So I was determined to learn to consistently apply a CA glue finish.
> The above pen turned out ok, but not great by a long shot. If you look closely just below the middle band, you'll see some ghosting effect. I think several things caused that on this particular pen. For one thing, I am trying several different thicknesses of glue. This one was my experiment with medium consistency glue. I have since learned that I have much better luck using the thinnest glue and applying multiple extremely thin coats instead of heavier coats. It's much like painting.
> Anytime I learn something new, I try it on scrap wood before trying another actual pen. So after practicing on scrap, I moved on to my next pen where my next problem became apparent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This pen is made of ziricote. It is a beautiful wood. I actually probably shouldn't have even been using this particular wood for something that I know I haven't gotten perfected yet, but I couldn't help myself. You see, a good friend sent this wood to me. In a box of a lot of other blanks, I had twelve blanks of this beautiful wood. Ever since I first laid eyes on it, I just have been itching to see what it looked like finished.
> Working with thinner coats of glue, I was real happy with the finish on this pen. I was quite pleased with myself. Then I removed the pen blanks from the lathe and wasn't so happy anymore. Sometimes, I have a problem with the bushings sticking to the blanks when using a CA glue finish. If you look closely above the center band on this pen, you'll notice a chip. The bushings usually pop right off, but this is what sometimes happens in the process. It chips that glass like finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after putting some thought into a solution, I came up with this. I took the tube from a pen I had messed up on. I used a tubing cutter and sliced it into three pieces. Then, after turning the pen blanks, I removed them from the mandrel and placed these thinner spacers on each end and in between the blanks. My thinking was that, with these being thinner, even if it chipped the finish it would be hidden on the ends by hardware instead of being visible on the sides.
> I would love to tell you how great this brilliant idea worked. Unfortunately, I did not take something else into account when I came up with it.
> The thin pieces of tubing allowed a tiny bit of glue to seep far enough between them and the blanks that it basically glued the blanks to the mandrel shaft. I won't even start to tell the story of what it took to get them off. It took about two hours and several ideas to get that little task accomplished without damaging the shaft. Luckily, I did not damage the shaft or the blanks. The short pieces of tubing went immediately into the garbage though, along with my great idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I told you I saved the blanks.
> This is another piece of ziricote. I love how different pieces of this wood have completely unique appearances. It's hard to believe that this blank and the one from the previous pen looked identical before turning them.
> So I turned to my best friend for a solution, Google. I read through a lot of ideas for not gluing the bushings to the pen blanks before I came across one that I thought would work and was simple enough to do consistently. The idea was to put wax on the bushings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a cocobolo pen. The wax idea worked. I am getting more and more confident on my CA glue finish. Actually, I must admit that others I have talked to were right. Once you start to get the hang of this type of finish, it is easier, quicker, and looked better than any other finish I have tried. I still need practice of course, but this is my new pen finish of choice.
> That brings me to my next problem.
> If you look real close at this pen, it has a new problem, and it is something I am noticing more and more. It is just above the center band. Don't ask me how most of my problems happen at the center band, right where they're most visible. Things just have been working out that way for me. If you look just above the band on this pen though, you may notice it has a tiny gap. That is from the blank not being square to the tube when I started.
> They make a tool to square the blanks to the tube called a barrel trimmer. I just don't like it. I have tried it. It didn't work good. I sharpened it. It still didn't work good. I think part of the problem is that I like hard woods. I have noticed that it works flawlessly on softer woods. When I try it on hard woods though, like cocobolo or purple heart, I always get chip out that looks worse than the gap. I need a better way.
> So I have a new brilliant idea to combat this problem. I hope to work on that soon and will show you my solution, whether it works good or not. The worst that can happen is I learn something new, and isn't that what it's all about?


Yup, learning new things is the only way to go. What's the point otherwise? One needs to master/perfect old techniques, try new ones and find what works for them.

Sadly, with my "busy season" at work in full swing, I won't be learning much of anything, firsthand, for the near future. That doesn't mean I won't learn. I'll continue to learn from your experiences and watch your progress. So please keep screwing up, err trying new things, so I can learn more!!!

Have fun, stay safe and learn, learn, learn…..


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *One Step Forward......*
> 
> I have an opinion of wood working in general. If you're not constantly learning something new, then you're doing something wrong. I think that's what I'm enjoying so much about this wood turning. It always seems to be one step forward and two steps back in the learning process. I am consistently unhappy with the pens I've been turning. If I get to where I'm almost happy with the results, I add something new to the scenario to keep the learning curve high. That's the way I like it.
> So anyway, I haven't been able to do nearly as much as I'd like in the shop during the past week. I just haven't been up to it. So I fiddle around as much as I can, and this post is simply the learning I've been doing lately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This first pen is my latest attempt at a Celtic cross. It still isn't right, but I am getting closer. I understand the process now. The largest problem I'm having is gluing. I have been trying different glues and am having mixed results. I read online that a lot of people use quick setting glues and that is great. For me though, I think I need to move backwards and go back to a slower setting glue, like maybe Titebond II. I may go back with the quicker setting stuff later, but for now I think having more time to fiddle with the piece before everything is set will work better for me.
> This pen was not a total waste though. My wife loves it. It is made of purple heart with box elder. So I let her have it. Who am I kidding? She can have anything she wants.
> My other problem is what I worked on mostly this week though. I've been using a concoction recipe of finishes that produced some nice results, but I'm also looking for something more durable on these pens. The obvious solution, based on everything I've read, is CA glue. So I was determined to learn to consistently apply a CA glue finish.
> The above pen turned out ok, but not great by a long shot. If you look closely just below the middle band, you'll see some ghosting effect. I think several things caused that on this particular pen. For one thing, I am trying several different thicknesses of glue. This one was my experiment with medium consistency glue. I have since learned that I have much better luck using the thinnest glue and applying multiple extremely thin coats instead of heavier coats. It's much like painting.
> Anytime I learn something new, I try it on scrap wood before trying another actual pen. So after practicing on scrap, I moved on to my next pen where my next problem became apparent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This pen is made of ziricote. It is a beautiful wood. I actually probably shouldn't have even been using this particular wood for something that I know I haven't gotten perfected yet, but I couldn't help myself. You see, a good friend sent this wood to me. In a box of a lot of other blanks, I had twelve blanks of this beautiful wood. Ever since I first laid eyes on it, I just have been itching to see what it looked like finished.
> Working with thinner coats of glue, I was real happy with the finish on this pen. I was quite pleased with myself. Then I removed the pen blanks from the lathe and wasn't so happy anymore. Sometimes, I have a problem with the bushings sticking to the blanks when using a CA glue finish. If you look closely above the center band on this pen, you'll notice a chip. The bushings usually pop right off, but this is what sometimes happens in the process. It chips that glass like finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after putting some thought into a solution, I came up with this. I took the tube from a pen I had messed up on. I used a tubing cutter and sliced it into three pieces. Then, after turning the pen blanks, I removed them from the mandrel and placed these thinner spacers on each end and in between the blanks. My thinking was that, with these being thinner, even if it chipped the finish it would be hidden on the ends by hardware instead of being visible on the sides.
> I would love to tell you how great this brilliant idea worked. Unfortunately, I did not take something else into account when I came up with it.
> The thin pieces of tubing allowed a tiny bit of glue to seep far enough between them and the blanks that it basically glued the blanks to the mandrel shaft. I won't even start to tell the story of what it took to get them off. It took about two hours and several ideas to get that little task accomplished without damaging the shaft. Luckily, I did not damage the shaft or the blanks. The short pieces of tubing went immediately into the garbage though, along with my great idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I told you I saved the blanks.
> This is another piece of ziricote. I love how different pieces of this wood have completely unique appearances. It's hard to believe that this blank and the one from the previous pen looked identical before turning them.
> So I turned to my best friend for a solution, Google. I read through a lot of ideas for not gluing the bushings to the pen blanks before I came across one that I thought would work and was simple enough to do consistently. The idea was to put wax on the bushings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a cocobolo pen. The wax idea worked. I am getting more and more confident on my CA glue finish. Actually, I must admit that others I have talked to were right. Once you start to get the hang of this type of finish, it is easier, quicker, and looked better than any other finish I have tried. I still need practice of course, but this is my new pen finish of choice.
> That brings me to my next problem.
> If you look real close at this pen, it has a new problem, and it is something I am noticing more and more. It is just above the center band. Don't ask me how most of my problems happen at the center band, right where they're most visible. Things just have been working out that way for me. If you look just above the band on this pen though, you may notice it has a tiny gap. That is from the blank not being square to the tube when I started.
> They make a tool to square the blanks to the tube called a barrel trimmer. I just don't like it. I have tried it. It didn't work good. I sharpened it. It still didn't work good. I think part of the problem is that I like hard woods. I have noticed that it works flawlessly on softer woods. When I try it on hard woods though, like cocobolo or purple heart, I always get chip out that looks worse than the gap. I need a better way.
> So I have a new brilliant idea to combat this problem. I hope to work on that soon and will show you my solution, whether it works good or not. The worst that can happen is I learn something new, and isn't that what it's all about?


You are absolutely correct Mike. Once I get to a point where I can consitently do anything good enough that I'm happy with the results, then I become bored with it quickly. I think sometimes I enjoy the learning more than I do the actual doing. 
I feel being unhappy with my results is all part of a process though. As some people say, I am my own worst critic. I feel that's a good thing. If I continue being that way, it only means that if I am happy with something I make, then others will find it good enough too (hopefully).


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *One Step Forward......*
> 
> I have an opinion of wood working in general. If you're not constantly learning something new, then you're doing something wrong. I think that's what I'm enjoying so much about this wood turning. It always seems to be one step forward and two steps back in the learning process. I am consistently unhappy with the pens I've been turning. If I get to where I'm almost happy with the results, I add something new to the scenario to keep the learning curve high. That's the way I like it.
> So anyway, I haven't been able to do nearly as much as I'd like in the shop during the past week. I just haven't been up to it. So I fiddle around as much as I can, and this post is simply the learning I've been doing lately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This first pen is my latest attempt at a Celtic cross. It still isn't right, but I am getting closer. I understand the process now. The largest problem I'm having is gluing. I have been trying different glues and am having mixed results. I read online that a lot of people use quick setting glues and that is great. For me though, I think I need to move backwards and go back to a slower setting glue, like maybe Titebond II. I may go back with the quicker setting stuff later, but for now I think having more time to fiddle with the piece before everything is set will work better for me.
> This pen was not a total waste though. My wife loves it. It is made of purple heart with box elder. So I let her have it. Who am I kidding? She can have anything she wants.
> My other problem is what I worked on mostly this week though. I've been using a concoction recipe of finishes that produced some nice results, but I'm also looking for something more durable on these pens. The obvious solution, based on everything I've read, is CA glue. So I was determined to learn to consistently apply a CA glue finish.
> The above pen turned out ok, but not great by a long shot. If you look closely just below the middle band, you'll see some ghosting effect. I think several things caused that on this particular pen. For one thing, I am trying several different thicknesses of glue. This one was my experiment with medium consistency glue. I have since learned that I have much better luck using the thinnest glue and applying multiple extremely thin coats instead of heavier coats. It's much like painting.
> Anytime I learn something new, I try it on scrap wood before trying another actual pen. So after practicing on scrap, I moved on to my next pen where my next problem became apparent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This pen is made of ziricote. It is a beautiful wood. I actually probably shouldn't have even been using this particular wood for something that I know I haven't gotten perfected yet, but I couldn't help myself. You see, a good friend sent this wood to me. In a box of a lot of other blanks, I had twelve blanks of this beautiful wood. Ever since I first laid eyes on it, I just have been itching to see what it looked like finished.
> Working with thinner coats of glue, I was real happy with the finish on this pen. I was quite pleased with myself. Then I removed the pen blanks from the lathe and wasn't so happy anymore. Sometimes, I have a problem with the bushings sticking to the blanks when using a CA glue finish. If you look closely above the center band on this pen, you'll notice a chip. The bushings usually pop right off, but this is what sometimes happens in the process. It chips that glass like finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after putting some thought into a solution, I came up with this. I took the tube from a pen I had messed up on. I used a tubing cutter and sliced it into three pieces. Then, after turning the pen blanks, I removed them from the mandrel and placed these thinner spacers on each end and in between the blanks. My thinking was that, with these being thinner, even if it chipped the finish it would be hidden on the ends by hardware instead of being visible on the sides.
> I would love to tell you how great this brilliant idea worked. Unfortunately, I did not take something else into account when I came up with it.
> The thin pieces of tubing allowed a tiny bit of glue to seep far enough between them and the blanks that it basically glued the blanks to the mandrel shaft. I won't even start to tell the story of what it took to get them off. It took about two hours and several ideas to get that little task accomplished without damaging the shaft. Luckily, I did not damage the shaft or the blanks. The short pieces of tubing went immediately into the garbage though, along with my great idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I told you I saved the blanks.
> This is another piece of ziricote. I love how different pieces of this wood have completely unique appearances. It's hard to believe that this blank and the one from the previous pen looked identical before turning them.
> So I turned to my best friend for a solution, Google. I read through a lot of ideas for not gluing the bushings to the pen blanks before I came across one that I thought would work and was simple enough to do consistently. The idea was to put wax on the bushings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a cocobolo pen. The wax idea worked. I am getting more and more confident on my CA glue finish. Actually, I must admit that others I have talked to were right. Once you start to get the hang of this type of finish, it is easier, quicker, and looked better than any other finish I have tried. I still need practice of course, but this is my new pen finish of choice.
> That brings me to my next problem.
> If you look real close at this pen, it has a new problem, and it is something I am noticing more and more. It is just above the center band. Don't ask me how most of my problems happen at the center band, right where they're most visible. Things just have been working out that way for me. If you look just above the band on this pen though, you may notice it has a tiny gap. That is from the blank not being square to the tube when I started.
> They make a tool to square the blanks to the tube called a barrel trimmer. I just don't like it. I have tried it. It didn't work good. I sharpened it. It still didn't work good. I think part of the problem is that I like hard woods. I have noticed that it works flawlessly on softer woods. When I try it on hard woods though, like cocobolo or purple heart, I always get chip out that looks worse than the gap. I need a better way.
> So I have a new brilliant idea to combat this problem. I hope to work on that soon and will show you my solution, whether it works good or not. The worst that can happen is I learn something new, and isn't that what it's all about?


I will try to learn something new on a regular basis Randy, just for you. I hope you're taking notes on all this. I don't plan to screw up more in the future just for you.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *One Step Forward......*
> 
> I have an opinion of wood working in general. If you're not constantly learning something new, then you're doing something wrong. I think that's what I'm enjoying so much about this wood turning. It always seems to be one step forward and two steps back in the learning process. I am consistently unhappy with the pens I've been turning. If I get to where I'm almost happy with the results, I add something new to the scenario to keep the learning curve high. That's the way I like it.
> So anyway, I haven't been able to do nearly as much as I'd like in the shop during the past week. I just haven't been up to it. So I fiddle around as much as I can, and this post is simply the learning I've been doing lately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This first pen is my latest attempt at a Celtic cross. It still isn't right, but I am getting closer. I understand the process now. The largest problem I'm having is gluing. I have been trying different glues and am having mixed results. I read online that a lot of people use quick setting glues and that is great. For me though, I think I need to move backwards and go back to a slower setting glue, like maybe Titebond II. I may go back with the quicker setting stuff later, but for now I think having more time to fiddle with the piece before everything is set will work better for me.
> This pen was not a total waste though. My wife loves it. It is made of purple heart with box elder. So I let her have it. Who am I kidding? She can have anything she wants.
> My other problem is what I worked on mostly this week though. I've been using a concoction recipe of finishes that produced some nice results, but I'm also looking for something more durable on these pens. The obvious solution, based on everything I've read, is CA glue. So I was determined to learn to consistently apply a CA glue finish.
> The above pen turned out ok, but not great by a long shot. If you look closely just below the middle band, you'll see some ghosting effect. I think several things caused that on this particular pen. For one thing, I am trying several different thicknesses of glue. This one was my experiment with medium consistency glue. I have since learned that I have much better luck using the thinnest glue and applying multiple extremely thin coats instead of heavier coats. It's much like painting.
> Anytime I learn something new, I try it on scrap wood before trying another actual pen. So after practicing on scrap, I moved on to my next pen where my next problem became apparent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This pen is made of ziricote. It is a beautiful wood. I actually probably shouldn't have even been using this particular wood for something that I know I haven't gotten perfected yet, but I couldn't help myself. You see, a good friend sent this wood to me. In a box of a lot of other blanks, I had twelve blanks of this beautiful wood. Ever since I first laid eyes on it, I just have been itching to see what it looked like finished.
> Working with thinner coats of glue, I was real happy with the finish on this pen. I was quite pleased with myself. Then I removed the pen blanks from the lathe and wasn't so happy anymore. Sometimes, I have a problem with the bushings sticking to the blanks when using a CA glue finish. If you look closely above the center band on this pen, you'll notice a chip. The bushings usually pop right off, but this is what sometimes happens in the process. It chips that glass like finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after putting some thought into a solution, I came up with this. I took the tube from a pen I had messed up on. I used a tubing cutter and sliced it into three pieces. Then, after turning the pen blanks, I removed them from the mandrel and placed these thinner spacers on each end and in between the blanks. My thinking was that, with these being thinner, even if it chipped the finish it would be hidden on the ends by hardware instead of being visible on the sides.
> I would love to tell you how great this brilliant idea worked. Unfortunately, I did not take something else into account when I came up with it.
> The thin pieces of tubing allowed a tiny bit of glue to seep far enough between them and the blanks that it basically glued the blanks to the mandrel shaft. I won't even start to tell the story of what it took to get them off. It took about two hours and several ideas to get that little task accomplished without damaging the shaft. Luckily, I did not damage the shaft or the blanks. The short pieces of tubing went immediately into the garbage though, along with my great idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I told you I saved the blanks.
> This is another piece of ziricote. I love how different pieces of this wood have completely unique appearances. It's hard to believe that this blank and the one from the previous pen looked identical before turning them.
> So I turned to my best friend for a solution, Google. I read through a lot of ideas for not gluing the bushings to the pen blanks before I came across one that I thought would work and was simple enough to do consistently. The idea was to put wax on the bushings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a cocobolo pen. The wax idea worked. I am getting more and more confident on my CA glue finish. Actually, I must admit that others I have talked to were right. Once you start to get the hang of this type of finish, it is easier, quicker, and looked better than any other finish I have tried. I still need practice of course, but this is my new pen finish of choice.
> That brings me to my next problem.
> If you look real close at this pen, it has a new problem, and it is something I am noticing more and more. It is just above the center band. Don't ask me how most of my problems happen at the center band, right where they're most visible. Things just have been working out that way for me. If you look just above the band on this pen though, you may notice it has a tiny gap. That is from the blank not being square to the tube when I started.
> They make a tool to square the blanks to the tube called a barrel trimmer. I just don't like it. I have tried it. It didn't work good. I sharpened it. It still didn't work good. I think part of the problem is that I like hard woods. I have noticed that it works flawlessly on softer woods. When I try it on hard woods though, like cocobolo or purple heart, I always get chip out that looks worse than the gap. I need a better way.
> So I have a new brilliant idea to combat this problem. I hope to work on that soon and will show you my solution, whether it works good or not. The worst that can happen is I learn something new, and isn't that what it's all about?


Just your "normal" amount of "screw ups" will be plenty of material from which I can learn from!


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *One Step Forward......*
> 
> I have an opinion of wood working in general. If you're not constantly learning something new, then you're doing something wrong. I think that's what I'm enjoying so much about this wood turning. It always seems to be one step forward and two steps back in the learning process. I am consistently unhappy with the pens I've been turning. If I get to where I'm almost happy with the results, I add something new to the scenario to keep the learning curve high. That's the way I like it.
> So anyway, I haven't been able to do nearly as much as I'd like in the shop during the past week. I just haven't been up to it. So I fiddle around as much as I can, and this post is simply the learning I've been doing lately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This first pen is my latest attempt at a Celtic cross. It still isn't right, but I am getting closer. I understand the process now. The largest problem I'm having is gluing. I have been trying different glues and am having mixed results. I read online that a lot of people use quick setting glues and that is great. For me though, I think I need to move backwards and go back to a slower setting glue, like maybe Titebond II. I may go back with the quicker setting stuff later, but for now I think having more time to fiddle with the piece before everything is set will work better for me.
> This pen was not a total waste though. My wife loves it. It is made of purple heart with box elder. So I let her have it. Who am I kidding? She can have anything she wants.
> My other problem is what I worked on mostly this week though. I've been using a concoction recipe of finishes that produced some nice results, but I'm also looking for something more durable on these pens. The obvious solution, based on everything I've read, is CA glue. So I was determined to learn to consistently apply a CA glue finish.
> The above pen turned out ok, but not great by a long shot. If you look closely just below the middle band, you'll see some ghosting effect. I think several things caused that on this particular pen. For one thing, I am trying several different thicknesses of glue. This one was my experiment with medium consistency glue. I have since learned that I have much better luck using the thinnest glue and applying multiple extremely thin coats instead of heavier coats. It's much like painting.
> Anytime I learn something new, I try it on scrap wood before trying another actual pen. So after practicing on scrap, I moved on to my next pen where my next problem became apparent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This pen is made of ziricote. It is a beautiful wood. I actually probably shouldn't have even been using this particular wood for something that I know I haven't gotten perfected yet, but I couldn't help myself. You see, a good friend sent this wood to me. In a box of a lot of other blanks, I had twelve blanks of this beautiful wood. Ever since I first laid eyes on it, I just have been itching to see what it looked like finished.
> Working with thinner coats of glue, I was real happy with the finish on this pen. I was quite pleased with myself. Then I removed the pen blanks from the lathe and wasn't so happy anymore. Sometimes, I have a problem with the bushings sticking to the blanks when using a CA glue finish. If you look closely above the center band on this pen, you'll notice a chip. The bushings usually pop right off, but this is what sometimes happens in the process. It chips that glass like finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after putting some thought into a solution, I came up with this. I took the tube from a pen I had messed up on. I used a tubing cutter and sliced it into three pieces. Then, after turning the pen blanks, I removed them from the mandrel and placed these thinner spacers on each end and in between the blanks. My thinking was that, with these being thinner, even if it chipped the finish it would be hidden on the ends by hardware instead of being visible on the sides.
> I would love to tell you how great this brilliant idea worked. Unfortunately, I did not take something else into account when I came up with it.
> The thin pieces of tubing allowed a tiny bit of glue to seep far enough between them and the blanks that it basically glued the blanks to the mandrel shaft. I won't even start to tell the story of what it took to get them off. It took about two hours and several ideas to get that little task accomplished without damaging the shaft. Luckily, I did not damage the shaft or the blanks. The short pieces of tubing went immediately into the garbage though, along with my great idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I told you I saved the blanks.
> This is another piece of ziricote. I love how different pieces of this wood have completely unique appearances. It's hard to believe that this blank and the one from the previous pen looked identical before turning them.
> So I turned to my best friend for a solution, Google. I read through a lot of ideas for not gluing the bushings to the pen blanks before I came across one that I thought would work and was simple enough to do consistently. The idea was to put wax on the bushings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a cocobolo pen. The wax idea worked. I am getting more and more confident on my CA glue finish. Actually, I must admit that others I have talked to were right. Once you start to get the hang of this type of finish, it is easier, quicker, and looked better than any other finish I have tried. I still need practice of course, but this is my new pen finish of choice.
> That brings me to my next problem.
> If you look real close at this pen, it has a new problem, and it is something I am noticing more and more. It is just above the center band. Don't ask me how most of my problems happen at the center band, right where they're most visible. Things just have been working out that way for me. If you look just above the band on this pen though, you may notice it has a tiny gap. That is from the blank not being square to the tube when I started.
> They make a tool to square the blanks to the tube called a barrel trimmer. I just don't like it. I have tried it. It didn't work good. I sharpened it. It still didn't work good. I think part of the problem is that I like hard woods. I have noticed that it works flawlessly on softer woods. When I try it on hard woods though, like cocobolo or purple heart, I always get chip out that looks worse than the gap. I need a better way.
> So I have a new brilliant idea to combat this problem. I hope to work on that soon and will show you my solution, whether it works good or not. The worst that can happen is I learn something new, and isn't that what it's all about?


William,
Some time back, I ran across this jig that might help you with squaring the pen blanks-









http://rizaydog.webs.com/pensquaringjig.htm


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *One Step Forward......*
> 
> I have an opinion of wood working in general. If you're not constantly learning something new, then you're doing something wrong. I think that's what I'm enjoying so much about this wood turning. It always seems to be one step forward and two steps back in the learning process. I am consistently unhappy with the pens I've been turning. If I get to where I'm almost happy with the results, I add something new to the scenario to keep the learning curve high. That's the way I like it.
> So anyway, I haven't been able to do nearly as much as I'd like in the shop during the past week. I just haven't been up to it. So I fiddle around as much as I can, and this post is simply the learning I've been doing lately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This first pen is my latest attempt at a Celtic cross. It still isn't right, but I am getting closer. I understand the process now. The largest problem I'm having is gluing. I have been trying different glues and am having mixed results. I read online that a lot of people use quick setting glues and that is great. For me though, I think I need to move backwards and go back to a slower setting glue, like maybe Titebond II. I may go back with the quicker setting stuff later, but for now I think having more time to fiddle with the piece before everything is set will work better for me.
> This pen was not a total waste though. My wife loves it. It is made of purple heart with box elder. So I let her have it. Who am I kidding? She can have anything she wants.
> My other problem is what I worked on mostly this week though. I've been using a concoction recipe of finishes that produced some nice results, but I'm also looking for something more durable on these pens. The obvious solution, based on everything I've read, is CA glue. So I was determined to learn to consistently apply a CA glue finish.
> The above pen turned out ok, but not great by a long shot. If you look closely just below the middle band, you'll see some ghosting effect. I think several things caused that on this particular pen. For one thing, I am trying several different thicknesses of glue. This one was my experiment with medium consistency glue. I have since learned that I have much better luck using the thinnest glue and applying multiple extremely thin coats instead of heavier coats. It's much like painting.
> Anytime I learn something new, I try it on scrap wood before trying another actual pen. So after practicing on scrap, I moved on to my next pen where my next problem became apparent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This pen is made of ziricote. It is a beautiful wood. I actually probably shouldn't have even been using this particular wood for something that I know I haven't gotten perfected yet, but I couldn't help myself. You see, a good friend sent this wood to me. In a box of a lot of other blanks, I had twelve blanks of this beautiful wood. Ever since I first laid eyes on it, I just have been itching to see what it looked like finished.
> Working with thinner coats of glue, I was real happy with the finish on this pen. I was quite pleased with myself. Then I removed the pen blanks from the lathe and wasn't so happy anymore. Sometimes, I have a problem with the bushings sticking to the blanks when using a CA glue finish. If you look closely above the center band on this pen, you'll notice a chip. The bushings usually pop right off, but this is what sometimes happens in the process. It chips that glass like finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after putting some thought into a solution, I came up with this. I took the tube from a pen I had messed up on. I used a tubing cutter and sliced it into three pieces. Then, after turning the pen blanks, I removed them from the mandrel and placed these thinner spacers on each end and in between the blanks. My thinking was that, with these being thinner, even if it chipped the finish it would be hidden on the ends by hardware instead of being visible on the sides.
> I would love to tell you how great this brilliant idea worked. Unfortunately, I did not take something else into account when I came up with it.
> The thin pieces of tubing allowed a tiny bit of glue to seep far enough between them and the blanks that it basically glued the blanks to the mandrel shaft. I won't even start to tell the story of what it took to get them off. It took about two hours and several ideas to get that little task accomplished without damaging the shaft. Luckily, I did not damage the shaft or the blanks. The short pieces of tubing went immediately into the garbage though, along with my great idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I told you I saved the blanks.
> This is another piece of ziricote. I love how different pieces of this wood have completely unique appearances. It's hard to believe that this blank and the one from the previous pen looked identical before turning them.
> So I turned to my best friend for a solution, Google. I read through a lot of ideas for not gluing the bushings to the pen blanks before I came across one that I thought would work and was simple enough to do consistently. The idea was to put wax on the bushings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a cocobolo pen. The wax idea worked. I am getting more and more confident on my CA glue finish. Actually, I must admit that others I have talked to were right. Once you start to get the hang of this type of finish, it is easier, quicker, and looked better than any other finish I have tried. I still need practice of course, but this is my new pen finish of choice.
> That brings me to my next problem.
> If you look real close at this pen, it has a new problem, and it is something I am noticing more and more. It is just above the center band. Don't ask me how most of my problems happen at the center band, right where they're most visible. Things just have been working out that way for me. If you look just above the band on this pen though, you may notice it has a tiny gap. That is from the blank not being square to the tube when I started.
> They make a tool to square the blanks to the tube called a barrel trimmer. I just don't like it. I have tried it. It didn't work good. I sharpened it. It still didn't work good. I think part of the problem is that I like hard woods. I have noticed that it works flawlessly on softer woods. When I try it on hard woods though, like cocobolo or purple heart, I always get chip out that looks worse than the gap. I need a better way.
> So I have a new brilliant idea to combat this problem. I hope to work on that soon and will show you my solution, whether it works good or not. The worst that can happen is I learn something new, and isn't that what it's all about?


Lew, I have seen plans for that jig. I actually thought about it. However, I have always kept very course paper on my twelve inch disk sander. I won't go into why right now. Let's just say I have it for a specific purpose in my shop. Anyway, using that jig would require me to change the purpose of my sander, or have to constantly be changing paper, which is a hassle.
Anyway, I will be posting my solution soon. It is sort of based on this same principle. I am done with it and it works. I hope you look for it after I post it in the next installment, later this evening.


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *One Step Forward......*
> 
> I have an opinion of wood working in general. If you're not constantly learning something new, then you're doing something wrong. I think that's what I'm enjoying so much about this wood turning. It always seems to be one step forward and two steps back in the learning process. I am consistently unhappy with the pens I've been turning. If I get to where I'm almost happy with the results, I add something new to the scenario to keep the learning curve high. That's the way I like it.
> So anyway, I haven't been able to do nearly as much as I'd like in the shop during the past week. I just haven't been up to it. So I fiddle around as much as I can, and this post is simply the learning I've been doing lately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This first pen is my latest attempt at a Celtic cross. It still isn't right, but I am getting closer. I understand the process now. The largest problem I'm having is gluing. I have been trying different glues and am having mixed results. I read online that a lot of people use quick setting glues and that is great. For me though, I think I need to move backwards and go back to a slower setting glue, like maybe Titebond II. I may go back with the quicker setting stuff later, but for now I think having more time to fiddle with the piece before everything is set will work better for me.
> This pen was not a total waste though. My wife loves it. It is made of purple heart with box elder. So I let her have it. Who am I kidding? She can have anything she wants.
> My other problem is what I worked on mostly this week though. I've been using a concoction recipe of finishes that produced some nice results, but I'm also looking for something more durable on these pens. The obvious solution, based on everything I've read, is CA glue. So I was determined to learn to consistently apply a CA glue finish.
> The above pen turned out ok, but not great by a long shot. If you look closely just below the middle band, you'll see some ghosting effect. I think several things caused that on this particular pen. For one thing, I am trying several different thicknesses of glue. This one was my experiment with medium consistency glue. I have since learned that I have much better luck using the thinnest glue and applying multiple extremely thin coats instead of heavier coats. It's much like painting.
> Anytime I learn something new, I try it on scrap wood before trying another actual pen. So after practicing on scrap, I moved on to my next pen where my next problem became apparent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This pen is made of ziricote. It is a beautiful wood. I actually probably shouldn't have even been using this particular wood for something that I know I haven't gotten perfected yet, but I couldn't help myself. You see, a good friend sent this wood to me. In a box of a lot of other blanks, I had twelve blanks of this beautiful wood. Ever since I first laid eyes on it, I just have been itching to see what it looked like finished.
> Working with thinner coats of glue, I was real happy with the finish on this pen. I was quite pleased with myself. Then I removed the pen blanks from the lathe and wasn't so happy anymore. Sometimes, I have a problem with the bushings sticking to the blanks when using a CA glue finish. If you look closely above the center band on this pen, you'll notice a chip. The bushings usually pop right off, but this is what sometimes happens in the process. It chips that glass like finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after putting some thought into a solution, I came up with this. I took the tube from a pen I had messed up on. I used a tubing cutter and sliced it into three pieces. Then, after turning the pen blanks, I removed them from the mandrel and placed these thinner spacers on each end and in between the blanks. My thinking was that, with these being thinner, even if it chipped the finish it would be hidden on the ends by hardware instead of being visible on the sides.
> I would love to tell you how great this brilliant idea worked. Unfortunately, I did not take something else into account when I came up with it.
> The thin pieces of tubing allowed a tiny bit of glue to seep far enough between them and the blanks that it basically glued the blanks to the mandrel shaft. I won't even start to tell the story of what it took to get them off. It took about two hours and several ideas to get that little task accomplished without damaging the shaft. Luckily, I did not damage the shaft or the blanks. The short pieces of tubing went immediately into the garbage though, along with my great idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I told you I saved the blanks.
> This is another piece of ziricote. I love how different pieces of this wood have completely unique appearances. It's hard to believe that this blank and the one from the previous pen looked identical before turning them.
> So I turned to my best friend for a solution, Google. I read through a lot of ideas for not gluing the bushings to the pen blanks before I came across one that I thought would work and was simple enough to do consistently. The idea was to put wax on the bushings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a cocobolo pen. The wax idea worked. I am getting more and more confident on my CA glue finish. Actually, I must admit that others I have talked to were right. Once you start to get the hang of this type of finish, it is easier, quicker, and looked better than any other finish I have tried. I still need practice of course, but this is my new pen finish of choice.
> That brings me to my next problem.
> If you look real close at this pen, it has a new problem, and it is something I am noticing more and more. It is just above the center band. Don't ask me how most of my problems happen at the center band, right where they're most visible. Things just have been working out that way for me. If you look just above the band on this pen though, you may notice it has a tiny gap. That is from the blank not being square to the tube when I started.
> They make a tool to square the blanks to the tube called a barrel trimmer. I just don't like it. I have tried it. It didn't work good. I sharpened it. It still didn't work good. I think part of the problem is that I like hard woods. I have noticed that it works flawlessly on softer woods. When I try it on hard woods though, like cocobolo or purple heart, I always get chip out that looks worse than the gap. I need a better way.
> So I have a new brilliant idea to combat this problem. I hope to work on that soon and will show you my solution, whether it works good or not. The worst that can happen is I learn something new, and isn't that what it's all about?


Those pens look good to me. That ziricote is some gorgeous wood. I've been avoiding CA as a finish because I have a natural talent for gluing myself to stuff.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *One Step Forward......*
> 
> I have an opinion of wood working in general. If you're not constantly learning something new, then you're doing something wrong. I think that's what I'm enjoying so much about this wood turning. It always seems to be one step forward and two steps back in the learning process. I am consistently unhappy with the pens I've been turning. If I get to where I'm almost happy with the results, I add something new to the scenario to keep the learning curve high. That's the way I like it.
> So anyway, I haven't been able to do nearly as much as I'd like in the shop during the past week. I just haven't been up to it. So I fiddle around as much as I can, and this post is simply the learning I've been doing lately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This first pen is my latest attempt at a Celtic cross. It still isn't right, but I am getting closer. I understand the process now. The largest problem I'm having is gluing. I have been trying different glues and am having mixed results. I read online that a lot of people use quick setting glues and that is great. For me though, I think I need to move backwards and go back to a slower setting glue, like maybe Titebond II. I may go back with the quicker setting stuff later, but for now I think having more time to fiddle with the piece before everything is set will work better for me.
> This pen was not a total waste though. My wife loves it. It is made of purple heart with box elder. So I let her have it. Who am I kidding? She can have anything she wants.
> My other problem is what I worked on mostly this week though. I've been using a concoction recipe of finishes that produced some nice results, but I'm also looking for something more durable on these pens. The obvious solution, based on everything I've read, is CA glue. So I was determined to learn to consistently apply a CA glue finish.
> The above pen turned out ok, but not great by a long shot. If you look closely just below the middle band, you'll see some ghosting effect. I think several things caused that on this particular pen. For one thing, I am trying several different thicknesses of glue. This one was my experiment with medium consistency glue. I have since learned that I have much better luck using the thinnest glue and applying multiple extremely thin coats instead of heavier coats. It's much like painting.
> Anytime I learn something new, I try it on scrap wood before trying another actual pen. So after practicing on scrap, I moved on to my next pen where my next problem became apparent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This pen is made of ziricote. It is a beautiful wood. I actually probably shouldn't have even been using this particular wood for something that I know I haven't gotten perfected yet, but I couldn't help myself. You see, a good friend sent this wood to me. In a box of a lot of other blanks, I had twelve blanks of this beautiful wood. Ever since I first laid eyes on it, I just have been itching to see what it looked like finished.
> Working with thinner coats of glue, I was real happy with the finish on this pen. I was quite pleased with myself. Then I removed the pen blanks from the lathe and wasn't so happy anymore. Sometimes, I have a problem with the bushings sticking to the blanks when using a CA glue finish. If you look closely above the center band on this pen, you'll notice a chip. The bushings usually pop right off, but this is what sometimes happens in the process. It chips that glass like finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after putting some thought into a solution, I came up with this. I took the tube from a pen I had messed up on. I used a tubing cutter and sliced it into three pieces. Then, after turning the pen blanks, I removed them from the mandrel and placed these thinner spacers on each end and in between the blanks. My thinking was that, with these being thinner, even if it chipped the finish it would be hidden on the ends by hardware instead of being visible on the sides.
> I would love to tell you how great this brilliant idea worked. Unfortunately, I did not take something else into account when I came up with it.
> The thin pieces of tubing allowed a tiny bit of glue to seep far enough between them and the blanks that it basically glued the blanks to the mandrel shaft. I won't even start to tell the story of what it took to get them off. It took about two hours and several ideas to get that little task accomplished without damaging the shaft. Luckily, I did not damage the shaft or the blanks. The short pieces of tubing went immediately into the garbage though, along with my great idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I told you I saved the blanks.
> This is another piece of ziricote. I love how different pieces of this wood have completely unique appearances. It's hard to believe that this blank and the one from the previous pen looked identical before turning them.
> So I turned to my best friend for a solution, Google. I read through a lot of ideas for not gluing the bushings to the pen blanks before I came across one that I thought would work and was simple enough to do consistently. The idea was to put wax on the bushings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a cocobolo pen. The wax idea worked. I am getting more and more confident on my CA glue finish. Actually, I must admit that others I have talked to were right. Once you start to get the hang of this type of finish, it is easier, quicker, and looked better than any other finish I have tried. I still need practice of course, but this is my new pen finish of choice.
> That brings me to my next problem.
> If you look real close at this pen, it has a new problem, and it is something I am noticing more and more. It is just above the center band. Don't ask me how most of my problems happen at the center band, right where they're most visible. Things just have been working out that way for me. If you look just above the band on this pen though, you may notice it has a tiny gap. That is from the blank not being square to the tube when I started.
> They make a tool to square the blanks to the tube called a barrel trimmer. I just don't like it. I have tried it. It didn't work good. I sharpened it. It still didn't work good. I think part of the problem is that I like hard woods. I have noticed that it works flawlessly on softer woods. When I try it on hard woods though, like cocobolo or purple heart, I always get chip out that looks worse than the gap. I need a better way.
> So I have a new brilliant idea to combat this problem. I hope to work on that soon and will show you my solution, whether it works good or not. The worst that can happen is I learn something new, and isn't that what it's all about?


I have that problem too Rich.
For every bottle of glue I buy, I've learned to buy two bottles of fingernail polish remover. It takes CA glue right off my fingers.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*

If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.








Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt. 
Now for using it.








The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.








Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away. 
In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.








Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!

If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


Yup, another William "run what ya brung" shop tool!!! Well done!!!

Disclaimer: No pen blanks were hurt in the…....


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


Cool Idea, William!!

As I was reading, I could see where you were headed. An idea jumped out at me and that was to use hook and loop. But that might be too "soft" to get a really flat blank end.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


Actually Lew, the paper I used is loop. I didn't have the hook part to put on the wood though. I did not think about it until I was done, but when this paper inevitable wears out, I'm going to have to make another one of these. Since I used CA glue to put the paper on with, it isn't going to come off cleanly enough to replace. On the next one, I may try to get some stick on loop to make the paper interchangable.


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


That's a great idea, William. I totally agree that the lathe itself is the best place to keep things concentric. I have a need to drill the end of something 32 inches long. Think it's time to build a steady rest.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


I've been looking at steady rests. I don't need one yet, but I've been looking at different designs I could build because I know, with me, that it's just a matter of time.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


William, Great solution. I am truly in need of something o work on squaring up my blanks better. I may give this idea some thought. Thanks for sharing.

CtL


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


Ingenious solution-simple *and *effective. Thanks for sharing it.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


Great idea.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


Thank you all.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


really nice tool, what kind of wood is that ..its pretty wood for sure..maybe you should patent that…become a millionair, move to california…....buy a swimming pool…......


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


Thanks Grizz.
The wood is sapelle. It was just a piece out of my loose scraps pile. I am a wood hoarder. I save scraps of all shapes and sizes. Never know when you may need something.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


A very kool idea William.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


Thanks Roger.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


Thats using the ole noodle for something besides a hat rack. Although I have never see you wear a hat.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


I don't wear hats Dave.
I don't like anything on my head, even hair.
I do own a couple though for when I'm doing something like fishing, so the top of my head doesn't get sunburned.


----------



## Vasileios

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Squaring Solution - Shop Made Pen Blank Squaring Tool*
> 
> If you read the last blog installment, you know I was having a problem squaring the pen blanks to the tube inserts. I don't like the barrel trimmers. The idea is a good one, but I just didn't like the performance of the one I have. So I had an idea for a different approach.
> I have seen some jigs to be used with disk sanders. I have a disk sander. However, I keep course paper on it for another purpose in my shop. The disk sander idea would involve either setting it up with finer paper, which would slow me down when I use it to hog off material on some other projects I use it one, or constantly changing paper all the time, which is a major hassle. So, going on that general sanding idea, I had an idea to go a different route.
> I have learned that, when wanting to get things perfectly square and concentric at the same time, there is no better tool for the job than the lathe itself. So my idea involved sanding the blanks square on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool. To make it I took a length of quarter inch steel rod. I chucked it up into the morse taper end of the pen mandrel set and used sandpaper with the lathe running to get it sanded down just a hair, so the seven millimeter tubes would slip all the way across snugly, but easily at the same time. Next I drilled a quarter inch hole into a small square of wood and used epoxy to glue it onto the shaft. Once the epoxy set, I turned the block of wood down round, and perfectly straight with the shaft. Then I took two pieces of sandpaper, eight grit and two twenty grit, and sandwiched them between two pieces of wood so I could use the drill press to put clean holes though the center. I then epoxied a piece of the paper to each side of the wooden block. ﻿
> This completed the tool. I also coated the outer edge of the rounded wood with CA glue. This wasn't absolutely necessary. I figured it would prevent some wood movement though. It couldn't hurt.
> Now for using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool simply slips into the morse taper end chuck part of the pen mandrel. For the purpose I'm using it for, I found that simply hand tightening the chuck holds the tool plenty tight enough for what I need to do. You can flip the tool either way depending on if you wish to use eighty grit or two twenty grit. I'll usually use the finer grit. I figure if a blank is severely out of square, or extremely hard, I may have a need for the courser grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with the lathe running at it's slowest speed, so you don't accidentally take off too much, slip the pen blank over the end of the shaft and touch it lightly to the paper. I suggest going slow and letting the abrasive do the work. This will assure a nicer finish on the end, extend the life of the paper, and taking your time allows you to keep a close eye on things and not sand too much away.
> In the above photo, you see the back end of the pen I made yesterday with the gap in it. As a good test run, I decided to take a chance on the tool, since I was sure it would work, and fix the gap in this pen. I used a punch to knock the clip and cap off the end of it so I could give it a try. The worst that could happen would be for me to mess the pen up. If it did, it wouldn't be the first time, and most probably won't be the last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, I did not have to scrap a pen today. IT WORKED!!!
> 
> If you like this pen blank squaring tool, you can build your own and send the money to….......
> I'm just joking. I think this is a good idea and would be flattered if anyone likes it enough to copy it.


William this is the best idea from all squaring jigs than I have ever seen.
I have some questions please. 
1. I can not distinguish length of quarter inch steel rod on the first photo and what hapens with this after
2. If you want to replace the old sandpaper with new one, do you rive the old sandpaper, or do you epoxide the new over the old?
3. Can I use velcro as a sandpaper base?
Thank you


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Sidetracked*

I know. I am supposed to be working on a marble machine. I have a little, and I promise a post on that a tad bit later this evening. The thing is though, I have gotten sidetracked. I hate to sound like I'm making excuses, but I've had a rough week so far. I have been in a lot of pain. Sometimes the pain gets to me and I'm easily distracted from something I am supposed to be doing. Recently I have learned that turning is a favorite diversional tactic of mine when the pain wears on my mind. So I have a few turnings to show.
I became tied up over last weekend. Then, early in the week, someone I consider a good friend and I exchanged visits between our shops. Upon going to his shop, he gave me some wood. All of it was beautiful, but one certain piece offered a specific challenge to me. It was a piece of cherry with a knot in it that made most of the wood around it seem unusable. I was determined to get something done with it though. The twisting grain in it just intrigued me.
Most of the board could easily be cut into pen blanks. It was that area around that knot I wanted to get at though.
















I chopped around it. Some of it shattered into pieces, flying off my saw as tiny projectiles that scared the living daylights out of me. I was able to get some small piece though just around the inner part of the knot. None were long enough for full pen blanks, but I had an idea to add accent pieces to them to give them enough length. 
The above photos show the first pen I made with these pieces. The cherry offered some absolutely stunning grain. The middle, lighter colored wood on both side of the metal ring, is maple. The dark rings at each end are ziricote.








My friend also knew someone who needed some drumsticks. As usual too, I went a little overboard with that. I had never turned drumsticks, but seen it as a learning experience. The most important thing I learned was that I can turn them, but if I was a good finish I'm going to have to build a steady rest to cut down on the chatter. That's alright though. My friend also gave me some bearings to build the steady rest with. That is a future project I will design in my head until I can get to it.
I made drumsticks in several different species.








Oak








Maple








Sapelle








This is mystery wood.
I am calling it mystery wood because I haven't been able to identify the exact species yet. It looks similar to mahogany, but I'm reluctant to call it that until I am more sure.








Here is a better shot of it. It is hard to see the grain in the drumstick photo. It is straight grain, very hard, and as I said before, an absolutely beautiful piece of wood.
I would highly appreciate any opinions I get about what wood this is.








I then had fun with a screwdriver. This is an old screwdriver. My friend bought it at a flea market and it wasn't working right. I disassembled this antique with pleasure. I have always loved working on anything mechanical in nature. I got it to working, but the handle was worn out and badly cracked. So I decided to also turn a sapelle handle for it. Upon returning the tool, my friend surprised me by giving it to me. So this goes into my working collection of antique tools. What I mean my usable collection is that I would never own a tool that I can't use, no matter how old. If I can't use a tool, I find someone to give it too who prefers collecting. I'm a user, not a collector.

.

So, the last couple of days I did get back on track. I wanted to show you all what I was doing though while sidetracked off of what I was supposed to be doing.


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sidetracked*
> 
> I know. I am supposed to be working on a marble machine. I have a little, and I promise a post on that a tad bit later this evening. The thing is though, I have gotten sidetracked. I hate to sound like I'm making excuses, but I've had a rough week so far. I have been in a lot of pain. Sometimes the pain gets to me and I'm easily distracted from something I am supposed to be doing. Recently I have learned that turning is a favorite diversional tactic of mine when the pain wears on my mind. So I have a few turnings to show.
> I became tied up over last weekend. Then, early in the week, someone I consider a good friend and I exchanged visits between our shops. Upon going to his shop, he gave me some wood. All of it was beautiful, but one certain piece offered a specific challenge to me. It was a piece of cherry with a knot in it that made most of the wood around it seem unusable. I was determined to get something done with it though. The twisting grain in it just intrigued me.
> Most of the board could easily be cut into pen blanks. It was that area around that knot I wanted to get at though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped around it. Some of it shattered into pieces, flying off my saw as tiny projectiles that scared the living daylights out of me. I was able to get some small piece though just around the inner part of the knot. None were long enough for full pen blanks, but I had an idea to add accent pieces to them to give them enough length.
> The above photos show the first pen I made with these pieces. The cherry offered some absolutely stunning grain. The middle, lighter colored wood on both side of the metal ring, is maple. The dark rings at each end are ziricote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend also knew someone who needed some drumsticks. As usual too, I went a little overboard with that. I had never turned drumsticks, but seen it as a learning experience. The most important thing I learned was that I can turn them, but if I was a good finish I'm going to have to build a steady rest to cut down on the chatter. That's alright though. My friend also gave me some bearings to build the steady rest with. That is a future project I will design in my head until I can get to it.
> I made drumsticks in several different species.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sapelle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is mystery wood.
> I am calling it mystery wood because I haven't been able to identify the exact species yet. It looks similar to mahogany, but I'm reluctant to call it that until I am more sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better shot of it. It is hard to see the grain in the drumstick photo. It is straight grain, very hard, and as I said before, an absolutely beautiful piece of wood.
> I would highly appreciate any opinions I get about what wood this is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then had fun with a screwdriver. This is an old screwdriver. My friend bought it at a flea market and it wasn't working right. I disassembled this antique with pleasure. I have always loved working on anything mechanical in nature. I got it to working, but the handle was worn out and badly cracked. So I decided to also turn a sapelle handle for it. Upon returning the tool, my friend surprised me by giving it to me. So this goes into my working collection of antique tools. What I mean my usable collection is that I would never own a tool that I can't use, no matter how old. If I can't use a tool, I find someone to give it too who prefers collecting. I'm a user, not a collector.
> 
> .
> 
> So, the last couple of days I did get back on track. I wanted to show you all what I was doing though while sidetracked off of what I was supposed to be doing.


*DRUM 101*
Although a drum stick can be turned from oak or maple, It is most commonly made out of hickory…..


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sidetracked*
> 
> I know. I am supposed to be working on a marble machine. I have a little, and I promise a post on that a tad bit later this evening. The thing is though, I have gotten sidetracked. I hate to sound like I'm making excuses, but I've had a rough week so far. I have been in a lot of pain. Sometimes the pain gets to me and I'm easily distracted from something I am supposed to be doing. Recently I have learned that turning is a favorite diversional tactic of mine when the pain wears on my mind. So I have a few turnings to show.
> I became tied up over last weekend. Then, early in the week, someone I consider a good friend and I exchanged visits between our shops. Upon going to his shop, he gave me some wood. All of it was beautiful, but one certain piece offered a specific challenge to me. It was a piece of cherry with a knot in it that made most of the wood around it seem unusable. I was determined to get something done with it though. The twisting grain in it just intrigued me.
> Most of the board could easily be cut into pen blanks. It was that area around that knot I wanted to get at though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped around it. Some of it shattered into pieces, flying off my saw as tiny projectiles that scared the living daylights out of me. I was able to get some small piece though just around the inner part of the knot. None were long enough for full pen blanks, but I had an idea to add accent pieces to them to give them enough length.
> The above photos show the first pen I made with these pieces. The cherry offered some absolutely stunning grain. The middle, lighter colored wood on both side of the metal ring, is maple. The dark rings at each end are ziricote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend also knew someone who needed some drumsticks. As usual too, I went a little overboard with that. I had never turned drumsticks, but seen it as a learning experience. The most important thing I learned was that I can turn them, but if I was a good finish I'm going to have to build a steady rest to cut down on the chatter. That's alright though. My friend also gave me some bearings to build the steady rest with. That is a future project I will design in my head until I can get to it.
> I made drumsticks in several different species.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sapelle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is mystery wood.
> I am calling it mystery wood because I haven't been able to identify the exact species yet. It looks similar to mahogany, but I'm reluctant to call it that until I am more sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better shot of it. It is hard to see the grain in the drumstick photo. It is straight grain, very hard, and as I said before, an absolutely beautiful piece of wood.
> I would highly appreciate any opinions I get about what wood this is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then had fun with a screwdriver. This is an old screwdriver. My friend bought it at a flea market and it wasn't working right. I disassembled this antique with pleasure. I have always loved working on anything mechanical in nature. I got it to working, but the handle was worn out and badly cracked. So I decided to also turn a sapelle handle for it. Upon returning the tool, my friend surprised me by giving it to me. So this goes into my working collection of antique tools. What I mean my usable collection is that I would never own a tool that I can't use, no matter how old. If I can't use a tool, I find someone to give it too who prefers collecting. I'm a user, not a collector.
> 
> .
> 
> So, the last couple of days I did get back on track. I wanted to show you all what I was doing though while sidetracked off of what I was supposed to be doing.


William, you seem to be doing the right things! You may want to check lumberjocks.com/projects/32643 where I made a steady rest and found this design worked very well for me. I made another larger one to meet the capacity of my lathe which is 20" because I was making a larger vase and needed a support for it. I based the larger one on the same design. There are other designs out there but all are similar with few differences. Good luck on making it, I have every confidence that you will find ways to improve it however slight. My suggestion is to make the inside of the wheels at maximum capacity of your lathe.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sidetracked*
> 
> I know. I am supposed to be working on a marble machine. I have a little, and I promise a post on that a tad bit later this evening. The thing is though, I have gotten sidetracked. I hate to sound like I'm making excuses, but I've had a rough week so far. I have been in a lot of pain. Sometimes the pain gets to me and I'm easily distracted from something I am supposed to be doing. Recently I have learned that turning is a favorite diversional tactic of mine when the pain wears on my mind. So I have a few turnings to show.
> I became tied up over last weekend. Then, early in the week, someone I consider a good friend and I exchanged visits between our shops. Upon going to his shop, he gave me some wood. All of it was beautiful, but one certain piece offered a specific challenge to me. It was a piece of cherry with a knot in it that made most of the wood around it seem unusable. I was determined to get something done with it though. The twisting grain in it just intrigued me.
> Most of the board could easily be cut into pen blanks. It was that area around that knot I wanted to get at though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped around it. Some of it shattered into pieces, flying off my saw as tiny projectiles that scared the living daylights out of me. I was able to get some small piece though just around the inner part of the knot. None were long enough for full pen blanks, but I had an idea to add accent pieces to them to give them enough length.
> The above photos show the first pen I made with these pieces. The cherry offered some absolutely stunning grain. The middle, lighter colored wood on both side of the metal ring, is maple. The dark rings at each end are ziricote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend also knew someone who needed some drumsticks. As usual too, I went a little overboard with that. I had never turned drumsticks, but seen it as a learning experience. The most important thing I learned was that I can turn them, but if I was a good finish I'm going to have to build a steady rest to cut down on the chatter. That's alright though. My friend also gave me some bearings to build the steady rest with. That is a future project I will design in my head until I can get to it.
> I made drumsticks in several different species.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sapelle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is mystery wood.
> I am calling it mystery wood because I haven't been able to identify the exact species yet. It looks similar to mahogany, but I'm reluctant to call it that until I am more sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better shot of it. It is hard to see the grain in the drumstick photo. It is straight grain, very hard, and as I said before, an absolutely beautiful piece of wood.
> I would highly appreciate any opinions I get about what wood this is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then had fun with a screwdriver. This is an old screwdriver. My friend bought it at a flea market and it wasn't working right. I disassembled this antique with pleasure. I have always loved working on anything mechanical in nature. I got it to working, but the handle was worn out and badly cracked. So I decided to also turn a sapelle handle for it. Upon returning the tool, my friend surprised me by giving it to me. So this goes into my working collection of antique tools. What I mean my usable collection is that I would never own a tool that I can't use, no matter how old. If I can't use a tool, I find someone to give it too who prefers collecting. I'm a user, not a collector.
> 
> .
> 
> So, the last couple of days I did get back on track. I wanted to show you all what I was doing though while sidetracked off of what I was supposed to be doing.


I actually tried hickory Marty. The problem is that the only hickory I had access to at the moment was a hunk that had at one time had worms in it. I tried five or six tries at making hickory sticks. Each one wound up with either a worm hole in a spot that weakened it, or a small knot that interrupted the straight grain and weakened it. I will try the hickory again when I can get my hands on it. What little I was able to do I realized I enjoyed turning hickory.

Bearpie, thanks. I will be sure to check out that steady rest as soon as I get a chance. I will be making one of those in the future. I don't see me needing one often. However, if and when I do need one again, I'd like to have it at the ready.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sidetracked*
> 
> I know. I am supposed to be working on a marble machine. I have a little, and I promise a post on that a tad bit later this evening. The thing is though, I have gotten sidetracked. I hate to sound like I'm making excuses, but I've had a rough week so far. I have been in a lot of pain. Sometimes the pain gets to me and I'm easily distracted from something I am supposed to be doing. Recently I have learned that turning is a favorite diversional tactic of mine when the pain wears on my mind. So I have a few turnings to show.
> I became tied up over last weekend. Then, early in the week, someone I consider a good friend and I exchanged visits between our shops. Upon going to his shop, he gave me some wood. All of it was beautiful, but one certain piece offered a specific challenge to me. It was a piece of cherry with a knot in it that made most of the wood around it seem unusable. I was determined to get something done with it though. The twisting grain in it just intrigued me.
> Most of the board could easily be cut into pen blanks. It was that area around that knot I wanted to get at though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped around it. Some of it shattered into pieces, flying off my saw as tiny projectiles that scared the living daylights out of me. I was able to get some small piece though just around the inner part of the knot. None were long enough for full pen blanks, but I had an idea to add accent pieces to them to give them enough length.
> The above photos show the first pen I made with these pieces. The cherry offered some absolutely stunning grain. The middle, lighter colored wood on both side of the metal ring, is maple. The dark rings at each end are ziricote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend also knew someone who needed some drumsticks. As usual too, I went a little overboard with that. I had never turned drumsticks, but seen it as a learning experience. The most important thing I learned was that I can turn them, but if I was a good finish I'm going to have to build a steady rest to cut down on the chatter. That's alright though. My friend also gave me some bearings to build the steady rest with. That is a future project I will design in my head until I can get to it.
> I made drumsticks in several different species.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sapelle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is mystery wood.
> I am calling it mystery wood because I haven't been able to identify the exact species yet. It looks similar to mahogany, but I'm reluctant to call it that until I am more sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better shot of it. It is hard to see the grain in the drumstick photo. It is straight grain, very hard, and as I said before, an absolutely beautiful piece of wood.
> I would highly appreciate any opinions I get about what wood this is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then had fun with a screwdriver. This is an old screwdriver. My friend bought it at a flea market and it wasn't working right. I disassembled this antique with pleasure. I have always loved working on anything mechanical in nature. I got it to working, but the handle was worn out and badly cracked. So I decided to also turn a sapelle handle for it. Upon returning the tool, my friend surprised me by giving it to me. So this goes into my working collection of antique tools. What I mean my usable collection is that I would never own a tool that I can't use, no matter how old. If I can't use a tool, I find someone to give it too who prefers collecting. I'm a user, not a collector.
> 
> .
> 
> So, the last couple of days I did get back on track. I wanted to show you all what I was doing though while sidetracked off of what I was supposed to be doing.


You were doing what needed to be done.
You wouldn't do ANYTHING….
That didn't NEED to be done!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sidetracked*
> 
> I know. I am supposed to be working on a marble machine. I have a little, and I promise a post on that a tad bit later this evening. The thing is though, I have gotten sidetracked. I hate to sound like I'm making excuses, but I've had a rough week so far. I have been in a lot of pain. Sometimes the pain gets to me and I'm easily distracted from something I am supposed to be doing. Recently I have learned that turning is a favorite diversional tactic of mine when the pain wears on my mind. So I have a few turnings to show.
> I became tied up over last weekend. Then, early in the week, someone I consider a good friend and I exchanged visits between our shops. Upon going to his shop, he gave me some wood. All of it was beautiful, but one certain piece offered a specific challenge to me. It was a piece of cherry with a knot in it that made most of the wood around it seem unusable. I was determined to get something done with it though. The twisting grain in it just intrigued me.
> Most of the board could easily be cut into pen blanks. It was that area around that knot I wanted to get at though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped around it. Some of it shattered into pieces, flying off my saw as tiny projectiles that scared the living daylights out of me. I was able to get some small piece though just around the inner part of the knot. None were long enough for full pen blanks, but I had an idea to add accent pieces to them to give them enough length.
> The above photos show the first pen I made with these pieces. The cherry offered some absolutely stunning grain. The middle, lighter colored wood on both side of the metal ring, is maple. The dark rings at each end are ziricote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend also knew someone who needed some drumsticks. As usual too, I went a little overboard with that. I had never turned drumsticks, but seen it as a learning experience. The most important thing I learned was that I can turn them, but if I was a good finish I'm going to have to build a steady rest to cut down on the chatter. That's alright though. My friend also gave me some bearings to build the steady rest with. That is a future project I will design in my head until I can get to it.
> I made drumsticks in several different species.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sapelle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is mystery wood.
> I am calling it mystery wood because I haven't been able to identify the exact species yet. It looks similar to mahogany, but I'm reluctant to call it that until I am more sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better shot of it. It is hard to see the grain in the drumstick photo. It is straight grain, very hard, and as I said before, an absolutely beautiful piece of wood.
> I would highly appreciate any opinions I get about what wood this is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then had fun with a screwdriver. This is an old screwdriver. My friend bought it at a flea market and it wasn't working right. I disassembled this antique with pleasure. I have always loved working on anything mechanical in nature. I got it to working, but the handle was worn out and badly cracked. So I decided to also turn a sapelle handle for it. Upon returning the tool, my friend surprised me by giving it to me. So this goes into my working collection of antique tools. What I mean my usable collection is that I would never own a tool that I can't use, no matter how old. If I can't use a tool, I find someone to give it too who prefers collecting. I'm a user, not a collector.
> 
> .
> 
> So, the last couple of days I did get back on track. I wanted to show you all what I was doing though while sidetracked off of what I was supposed to be doing.


Thanks for the vote of confidence Randy, but lately I have so much that "needs" to be done. 
Ever since I made the trip to Georgia to see my Mom, I haven't been able to get back to myself.
I think that trip took more toll on me than even I realized.

Since returning, my pain has been pretty bad, but touch and go. 
I've had to take breaks even more often than normal.
I can't hold onto anything, my nerves are shot (from the pain and the meds)
I can't think straight. I've been even more forgettful and absentminded than normal.
I've been short tempered a lot of days. 
The list goes on, but it all adds up to one thing.
Lately, there just isn't enough hours in the day that I'm able to keep going.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sidetracked*
> 
> I know. I am supposed to be working on a marble machine. I have a little, and I promise a post on that a tad bit later this evening. The thing is though, I have gotten sidetracked. I hate to sound like I'm making excuses, but I've had a rough week so far. I have been in a lot of pain. Sometimes the pain gets to me and I'm easily distracted from something I am supposed to be doing. Recently I have learned that turning is a favorite diversional tactic of mine when the pain wears on my mind. So I have a few turnings to show.
> I became tied up over last weekend. Then, early in the week, someone I consider a good friend and I exchanged visits between our shops. Upon going to his shop, he gave me some wood. All of it was beautiful, but one certain piece offered a specific challenge to me. It was a piece of cherry with a knot in it that made most of the wood around it seem unusable. I was determined to get something done with it though. The twisting grain in it just intrigued me.
> Most of the board could easily be cut into pen blanks. It was that area around that knot I wanted to get at though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped around it. Some of it shattered into pieces, flying off my saw as tiny projectiles that scared the living daylights out of me. I was able to get some small piece though just around the inner part of the knot. None were long enough for full pen blanks, but I had an idea to add accent pieces to them to give them enough length.
> The above photos show the first pen I made with these pieces. The cherry offered some absolutely stunning grain. The middle, lighter colored wood on both side of the metal ring, is maple. The dark rings at each end are ziricote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend also knew someone who needed some drumsticks. As usual too, I went a little overboard with that. I had never turned drumsticks, but seen it as a learning experience. The most important thing I learned was that I can turn them, but if I was a good finish I'm going to have to build a steady rest to cut down on the chatter. That's alright though. My friend also gave me some bearings to build the steady rest with. That is a future project I will design in my head until I can get to it.
> I made drumsticks in several different species.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sapelle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is mystery wood.
> I am calling it mystery wood because I haven't been able to identify the exact species yet. It looks similar to mahogany, but I'm reluctant to call it that until I am more sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better shot of it. It is hard to see the grain in the drumstick photo. It is straight grain, very hard, and as I said before, an absolutely beautiful piece of wood.
> I would highly appreciate any opinions I get about what wood this is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then had fun with a screwdriver. This is an old screwdriver. My friend bought it at a flea market and it wasn't working right. I disassembled this antique with pleasure. I have always loved working on anything mechanical in nature. I got it to working, but the handle was worn out and badly cracked. So I decided to also turn a sapelle handle for it. Upon returning the tool, my friend surprised me by giving it to me. So this goes into my working collection of antique tools. What I mean my usable collection is that I would never own a tool that I can't use, no matter how old. If I can't use a tool, I find someone to give it too who prefers collecting. I'm a user, not a collector.
> 
> .
> 
> So, the last couple of days I did get back on track. I wanted to show you all what I was doing though while sidetracked off of what I was supposed to be doing.


well this was a great blog and im glad to see you going further into your different wood working skills, i cant wait to see what you next, but right now the best thing you could do is play the full version of WIPE OUT with them sticks…


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sidetracked*
> 
> I know. I am supposed to be working on a marble machine. I have a little, and I promise a post on that a tad bit later this evening. The thing is though, I have gotten sidetracked. I hate to sound like I'm making excuses, but I've had a rough week so far. I have been in a lot of pain. Sometimes the pain gets to me and I'm easily distracted from something I am supposed to be doing. Recently I have learned that turning is a favorite diversional tactic of mine when the pain wears on my mind. So I have a few turnings to show.
> I became tied up over last weekend. Then, early in the week, someone I consider a good friend and I exchanged visits between our shops. Upon going to his shop, he gave me some wood. All of it was beautiful, but one certain piece offered a specific challenge to me. It was a piece of cherry with a knot in it that made most of the wood around it seem unusable. I was determined to get something done with it though. The twisting grain in it just intrigued me.
> Most of the board could easily be cut into pen blanks. It was that area around that knot I wanted to get at though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped around it. Some of it shattered into pieces, flying off my saw as tiny projectiles that scared the living daylights out of me. I was able to get some small piece though just around the inner part of the knot. None were long enough for full pen blanks, but I had an idea to add accent pieces to them to give them enough length.
> The above photos show the first pen I made with these pieces. The cherry offered some absolutely stunning grain. The middle, lighter colored wood on both side of the metal ring, is maple. The dark rings at each end are ziricote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend also knew someone who needed some drumsticks. As usual too, I went a little overboard with that. I had never turned drumsticks, but seen it as a learning experience. The most important thing I learned was that I can turn them, but if I was a good finish I'm going to have to build a steady rest to cut down on the chatter. That's alright though. My friend also gave me some bearings to build the steady rest with. That is a future project I will design in my head until I can get to it.
> I made drumsticks in several different species.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sapelle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is mystery wood.
> I am calling it mystery wood because I haven't been able to identify the exact species yet. It looks similar to mahogany, but I'm reluctant to call it that until I am more sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better shot of it. It is hard to see the grain in the drumstick photo. It is straight grain, very hard, and as I said before, an absolutely beautiful piece of wood.
> I would highly appreciate any opinions I get about what wood this is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then had fun with a screwdriver. This is an old screwdriver. My friend bought it at a flea market and it wasn't working right. I disassembled this antique with pleasure. I have always loved working on anything mechanical in nature. I got it to working, but the handle was worn out and badly cracked. So I decided to also turn a sapelle handle for it. Upon returning the tool, my friend surprised me by giving it to me. So this goes into my working collection of antique tools. What I mean my usable collection is that I would never own a tool that I can't use, no matter how old. If I can't use a tool, I find someone to give it too who prefers collecting. I'm a user, not a collector.
> 
> .
> 
> So, the last couple of days I did get back on track. I wanted to show you all what I was doing though while sidetracked off of what I was supposed to be doing.


Great looking wood and a beautiful pen too William. I agree with you on using old tools. They are happier that way. I don't have anything against collectors as they are saving these old tools from oblivion, but working them is a lot better way to honor them in my opinion.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sidetracked*
> 
> I know. I am supposed to be working on a marble machine. I have a little, and I promise a post on that a tad bit later this evening. The thing is though, I have gotten sidetracked. I hate to sound like I'm making excuses, but I've had a rough week so far. I have been in a lot of pain. Sometimes the pain gets to me and I'm easily distracted from something I am supposed to be doing. Recently I have learned that turning is a favorite diversional tactic of mine when the pain wears on my mind. So I have a few turnings to show.
> I became tied up over last weekend. Then, early in the week, someone I consider a good friend and I exchanged visits between our shops. Upon going to his shop, he gave me some wood. All of it was beautiful, but one certain piece offered a specific challenge to me. It was a piece of cherry with a knot in it that made most of the wood around it seem unusable. I was determined to get something done with it though. The twisting grain in it just intrigued me.
> Most of the board could easily be cut into pen blanks. It was that area around that knot I wanted to get at though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped around it. Some of it shattered into pieces, flying off my saw as tiny projectiles that scared the living daylights out of me. I was able to get some small piece though just around the inner part of the knot. None were long enough for full pen blanks, but I had an idea to add accent pieces to them to give them enough length.
> The above photos show the first pen I made with these pieces. The cherry offered some absolutely stunning grain. The middle, lighter colored wood on both side of the metal ring, is maple. The dark rings at each end are ziricote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend also knew someone who needed some drumsticks. As usual too, I went a little overboard with that. I had never turned drumsticks, but seen it as a learning experience. The most important thing I learned was that I can turn them, but if I was a good finish I'm going to have to build a steady rest to cut down on the chatter. That's alright though. My friend also gave me some bearings to build the steady rest with. That is a future project I will design in my head until I can get to it.
> I made drumsticks in several different species.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sapelle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is mystery wood.
> I am calling it mystery wood because I haven't been able to identify the exact species yet. It looks similar to mahogany, but I'm reluctant to call it that until I am more sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better shot of it. It is hard to see the grain in the drumstick photo. It is straight grain, very hard, and as I said before, an absolutely beautiful piece of wood.
> I would highly appreciate any opinions I get about what wood this is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then had fun with a screwdriver. This is an old screwdriver. My friend bought it at a flea market and it wasn't working right. I disassembled this antique with pleasure. I have always loved working on anything mechanical in nature. I got it to working, but the handle was worn out and badly cracked. So I decided to also turn a sapelle handle for it. Upon returning the tool, my friend surprised me by giving it to me. So this goes into my working collection of antique tools. What I mean my usable collection is that I would never own a tool that I can't use, no matter how old. If I can't use a tool, I find someone to give it too who prefers collecting. I'm a user, not a collector.
> 
> .
> 
> So, the last couple of days I did get back on track. I wanted to show you all what I was doing though while sidetracked off of what I was supposed to be doing.


Sorry Grizz. I've already sent the sticks on their way to the guy who needed them. There will be no Wipe Out for me unless I put it on the stereo. 
As for what's next, I need to finish the marble machine. However, beyond that, and my many more ideas, a hunter friend the other day dropped off a box of deer antlers. I'm anxious to try that.

Mike, thank you and I'm glad you like the pen. When I seen that board, with all the large cracks around the knot, it just screamed challenge to me.
I like to use old tools. I'm not exactly a hand tool guy. As a matter of fact, I like my tools with the biggest horsepower motor I can find on them. It is something relaxing to me though to pull out the antiques for certain things and work with them. This screwdriver is a perfect example. It will come in handy when I have a screw to drive that is too tough to easily do with a regular screwdriver, but in material that is iffy enough that I don't feel a power drill would be wise.


----------



## BillNel

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sidetracked*
> 
> I know. I am supposed to be working on a marble machine. I have a little, and I promise a post on that a tad bit later this evening. The thing is though, I have gotten sidetracked. I hate to sound like I'm making excuses, but I've had a rough week so far. I have been in a lot of pain. Sometimes the pain gets to me and I'm easily distracted from something I am supposed to be doing. Recently I have learned that turning is a favorite diversional tactic of mine when the pain wears on my mind. So I have a few turnings to show.
> I became tied up over last weekend. Then, early in the week, someone I consider a good friend and I exchanged visits between our shops. Upon going to his shop, he gave me some wood. All of it was beautiful, but one certain piece offered a specific challenge to me. It was a piece of cherry with a knot in it that made most of the wood around it seem unusable. I was determined to get something done with it though. The twisting grain in it just intrigued me.
> Most of the board could easily be cut into pen blanks. It was that area around that knot I wanted to get at though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped around it. Some of it shattered into pieces, flying off my saw as tiny projectiles that scared the living daylights out of me. I was able to get some small piece though just around the inner part of the knot. None were long enough for full pen blanks, but I had an idea to add accent pieces to them to give them enough length.
> The above photos show the first pen I made with these pieces. The cherry offered some absolutely stunning grain. The middle, lighter colored wood on both side of the metal ring, is maple. The dark rings at each end are ziricote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend also knew someone who needed some drumsticks. As usual too, I went a little overboard with that. I had never turned drumsticks, but seen it as a learning experience. The most important thing I learned was that I can turn them, but if I was a good finish I'm going to have to build a steady rest to cut down on the chatter. That's alright though. My friend also gave me some bearings to build the steady rest with. That is a future project I will design in my head until I can get to it.
> I made drumsticks in several different species.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sapelle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is mystery wood.
> I am calling it mystery wood because I haven't been able to identify the exact species yet. It looks similar to mahogany, but I'm reluctant to call it that until I am more sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better shot of it. It is hard to see the grain in the drumstick photo. It is straight grain, very hard, and as I said before, an absolutely beautiful piece of wood.
> I would highly appreciate any opinions I get about what wood this is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then had fun with a screwdriver. This is an old screwdriver. My friend bought it at a flea market and it wasn't working right. I disassembled this antique with pleasure. I have always loved working on anything mechanical in nature. I got it to working, but the handle was worn out and badly cracked. So I decided to also turn a sapelle handle for it. Upon returning the tool, my friend surprised me by giving it to me. So this goes into my working collection of antique tools. What I mean my usable collection is that I would never own a tool that I can't use, no matter how old. If I can't use a tool, I find someone to give it too who prefers collecting. I'm a user, not a collector.
> 
> .
> 
> So, the last couple of days I did get back on track. I wanted to show you all what I was doing though while sidetracked off of what I was supposed to be doing.


That top pen is one I would gladly buy. I love the style.

The reason hickory is used for drumsticks is because of the strong interlocking grain. Drummers tend to whale on their drums and most woods won't stand up to the abuse.

Degame (Calycophyllum candidissimum) is another possibility. Its characteristics are very similar to hickory, but it is a pale yellow color.

Osage Orange is supposed to be pretty tough and might also work.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sidetracked*
> 
> I know. I am supposed to be working on a marble machine. I have a little, and I promise a post on that a tad bit later this evening. The thing is though, I have gotten sidetracked. I hate to sound like I'm making excuses, but I've had a rough week so far. I have been in a lot of pain. Sometimes the pain gets to me and I'm easily distracted from something I am supposed to be doing. Recently I have learned that turning is a favorite diversional tactic of mine when the pain wears on my mind. So I have a few turnings to show.
> I became tied up over last weekend. Then, early in the week, someone I consider a good friend and I exchanged visits between our shops. Upon going to his shop, he gave me some wood. All of it was beautiful, but one certain piece offered a specific challenge to me. It was a piece of cherry with a knot in it that made most of the wood around it seem unusable. I was determined to get something done with it though. The twisting grain in it just intrigued me.
> Most of the board could easily be cut into pen blanks. It was that area around that knot I wanted to get at though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped around it. Some of it shattered into pieces, flying off my saw as tiny projectiles that scared the living daylights out of me. I was able to get some small piece though just around the inner part of the knot. None were long enough for full pen blanks, but I had an idea to add accent pieces to them to give them enough length.
> The above photos show the first pen I made with these pieces. The cherry offered some absolutely stunning grain. The middle, lighter colored wood on both side of the metal ring, is maple. The dark rings at each end are ziricote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend also knew someone who needed some drumsticks. As usual too, I went a little overboard with that. I had never turned drumsticks, but seen it as a learning experience. The most important thing I learned was that I can turn them, but if I was a good finish I'm going to have to build a steady rest to cut down on the chatter. That's alright though. My friend also gave me some bearings to build the steady rest with. That is a future project I will design in my head until I can get to it.
> I made drumsticks in several different species.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sapelle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is mystery wood.
> I am calling it mystery wood because I haven't been able to identify the exact species yet. It looks similar to mahogany, but I'm reluctant to call it that until I am more sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better shot of it. It is hard to see the grain in the drumstick photo. It is straight grain, very hard, and as I said before, an absolutely beautiful piece of wood.
> I would highly appreciate any opinions I get about what wood this is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then had fun with a screwdriver. This is an old screwdriver. My friend bought it at a flea market and it wasn't working right. I disassembled this antique with pleasure. I have always loved working on anything mechanical in nature. I got it to working, but the handle was worn out and badly cracked. So I decided to also turn a sapelle handle for it. Upon returning the tool, my friend surprised me by giving it to me. So this goes into my working collection of antique tools. What I mean my usable collection is that I would never own a tool that I can't use, no matter how old. If I can't use a tool, I find someone to give it too who prefers collecting. I'm a user, not a collector.
> 
> .
> 
> So, the last couple of days I did get back on track. I wanted to show you all what I was doing though while sidetracked off of what I was supposed to be doing.


Those pens came out nicely. I have a few o those kits on their way to me as I type this. Nice drum sticks also. Ringo would luv em.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sidetracked*
> 
> I know. I am supposed to be working on a marble machine. I have a little, and I promise a post on that a tad bit later this evening. The thing is though, I have gotten sidetracked. I hate to sound like I'm making excuses, but I've had a rough week so far. I have been in a lot of pain. Sometimes the pain gets to me and I'm easily distracted from something I am supposed to be doing. Recently I have learned that turning is a favorite diversional tactic of mine when the pain wears on my mind. So I have a few turnings to show.
> I became tied up over last weekend. Then, early in the week, someone I consider a good friend and I exchanged visits between our shops. Upon going to his shop, he gave me some wood. All of it was beautiful, but one certain piece offered a specific challenge to me. It was a piece of cherry with a knot in it that made most of the wood around it seem unusable. I was determined to get something done with it though. The twisting grain in it just intrigued me.
> Most of the board could easily be cut into pen blanks. It was that area around that knot I wanted to get at though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped around it. Some of it shattered into pieces, flying off my saw as tiny projectiles that scared the living daylights out of me. I was able to get some small piece though just around the inner part of the knot. None were long enough for full pen blanks, but I had an idea to add accent pieces to them to give them enough length.
> The above photos show the first pen I made with these pieces. The cherry offered some absolutely stunning grain. The middle, lighter colored wood on both side of the metal ring, is maple. The dark rings at each end are ziricote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend also knew someone who needed some drumsticks. As usual too, I went a little overboard with that. I had never turned drumsticks, but seen it as a learning experience. The most important thing I learned was that I can turn them, but if I was a good finish I'm going to have to build a steady rest to cut down on the chatter. That's alright though. My friend also gave me some bearings to build the steady rest with. That is a future project I will design in my head until I can get to it.
> I made drumsticks in several different species.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sapelle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is mystery wood.
> I am calling it mystery wood because I haven't been able to identify the exact species yet. It looks similar to mahogany, but I'm reluctant to call it that until I am more sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better shot of it. It is hard to see the grain in the drumstick photo. It is straight grain, very hard, and as I said before, an absolutely beautiful piece of wood.
> I would highly appreciate any opinions I get about what wood this is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then had fun with a screwdriver. This is an old screwdriver. My friend bought it at a flea market and it wasn't working right. I disassembled this antique with pleasure. I have always loved working on anything mechanical in nature. I got it to working, but the handle was worn out and badly cracked. So I decided to also turn a sapelle handle for it. Upon returning the tool, my friend surprised me by giving it to me. So this goes into my working collection of antique tools. What I mean my usable collection is that I would never own a tool that I can't use, no matter how old. If I can't use a tool, I find someone to give it too who prefers collecting. I'm a user, not a collector.
> 
> .
> 
> So, the last couple of days I did get back on track. I wanted to show you all what I was doing though while sidetracked off of what I was supposed to be doing.


Thank you Bill. I will keep all that in mind as I stay on the lookout for wood to use for future drum sticks.

Roger, the Designer style kits are a tad pricy for my budget. I got them in a package deal that PennState had going on. I recieved two Designer, two Comfort, and two of two other kinds I can't remember. It still wasn't worth the money though because a couple of the pen kits were just slimline kits basically (which are way cheaper). I like a lot of the kits offered, but they can get expensive quick. I have to find a way to sell some of these before I can attempt higher priced kits. The ones I want to try though are the bolt action bullet pens. 
One day, my friend, one day.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*The Lumberjock Pens*

Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear. 
I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.








Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.








After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.








Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted. 
On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.








I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.








I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish. 
As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up. 








Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them. 
























So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.

Seven pens.
Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
Chips gave me the walnut.
Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
JL7 gave me the maple.
Dave gave me the sweetgum.
Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.

I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


Those look amazing, William! You've put that wood to much better use than I would have. Hopefully you'll feel better soon.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


Thanks Rich. It may be next month now. My available funds to bills needing paid ratio wasn't too pretty this month. I will try to get your's and the other's out in the mail first chance I get though.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


Very kool story William. The pens look awesome. Kool idea to cut n glue em that way. Those woods really go super together. You do more when you feel bad, than I do when I feel good… Carry on, hope you do get to feelin better. Always look forward to seein your creations. Work/Play safe. Keep makin dust


----------



## patron

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


nice work william
a great way to honor and include your friends

the pens all look special
like the bud's that inspired you

sweet

blessings brother


----------



## ssnvet

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


Nice job William….

looks like you had fun doing it…

Hang in there, spring with spring eventually.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


dont feel bad william, im in the same boat right now, dont ever think your alone in your pain…its going to get better, the pens turned out beautiful, what a great idea..i look forward to when they come, whenever that will be dont worry, just know you have made me another wonderful gift has made me smile, and good to know you have more friends..grizz


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


Very nice pens William and a wonderful way to thank your contributors.


----------



## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


Nicely done William. Keep on doing what you're doing.


----------



## Roger Clark aka Rex

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


Super job William, now looking forward to seeing a marble pen.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


William those are some beautiful pens , hope one day to see yall soon .ill be putting mine on a plack on the shop wall to remember a good friend when i see it ,thanks , it good to see that old lathe making so many beautiful things ,i know what you mean about the friends here on LJ and the wood working community they are a blessing


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


You will do absolutely anything to get me to come over and drink coffee with you. Make sure Eddie is there and will will swap south Louisiana stories. I'll tell you about the time the ole Cajun thought I was making his cows radioactive when we were looking for oil.
Nice work William and that does mean all the world to me. 
I will get over as soon as I can. I have to work around the baby.
And I think you are fixing to get the same.
Thank you my friend.


----------



## Mip

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


These are cool pens, especially when the wood turns dark to light, like a sunrise, or sunset. It's also cool that you are giving these to the people who donated the wood and the lathe to make them.


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


William, you're a good man
Those pens look really great, you have a gift for woodturning
and your colour mix just flows very nice
Jamie


----------



## StumpyNubs

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


Those are beautiful! And your generosity is great too, but not unexpected!


----------



## mojapitt

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


You're a true inspiration to us all. Keeps us humble. Through it all you show kindness and generosity. You are their gift sir.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


Really nice work William…..I am honored to make the list…..as Rich said, you put this wood to a better use than I…well done. Hope you are feeling better soon…..and I'm always amazed at how much work you churn out despite the pain…


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


What a fantastic tribute to both near & far off friends….

You sir are the embodiment of all the things that make LJs such a great sight….
As are all the recipients of the pens….

My hat is off to you and all the gift givers & recievers!!!

BTW: Those are some gorgeous pens….
You have again shown what an artist you are!!!


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


William, Those are nice. I like the way the woods just flow together. Thanks for the generosity and being a friend. I'll be sending more as soon as it quits raining so I can get out there and cut it up…..


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


Thank you all very much. 
I am glad to see all the recipients seem to have seen the pens, since they won't actually hold them until June. I had an unexpected bill pop up. I forgot that my quarterly garbage bill pops in around this time of year and spent more than I needed to before seeing it in the mailbox. So I will send them the first part of June, unless I can come up with some money during the month.

A couple of things.

I often get comments about how much I get done when I'm in pain. My doctor (and my wife to tell the truth) get on to me for how much I push myself when I'm hurting. What noone understands though is that I have to keep busy when I'm hurting. That's one of the many reasons I have fell in love with turning, I can do it while hurting. Anyway, if I sit around and do nothing when in pain, the depression sets in. So it becomes time to push hard and get myself to doing something, even if it's wrong.

Eddie, I'm going to whip your butt if I come over there and see this pen on a plaque. I put a durable CA glue finish on them for a reason, so they could be used. If you really want to honor the gift, use it in your shop for marking.

Making the woods flow was easy on these. I picked one pen blank from my stash from each person who had given me wood. Then I started at one end with the darkest, and arranged them in darkness on down to the lightest.

Dave, I can't wait to hear about the radioactive cow.

Thank you all who contributed to these pens. Also, thank you to all Lumberjocks. There are time when I can't get to the shop at all, no matter how much I want to. During those times, I am stuck in my wheel chair and you friends on Lumberjocks are who I turn to for conversation to help me keep my sanity. For that I am thankful. 
I wish I could make and send a pen to each and every member here. I'm sorry I couldn't possibly do that though, physically or financially. I want you all to know though that you are appreciated.


----------



## ShaneA

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


Good stuff. I like the wood mix and the angle.


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


There's something about an ink pen a CA glue that has me concerned…..


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


Those are so cool .

I'll bet the glue up were a nightmare trying to glue all those 60 degree angles. But you got her done!

Great gesture returning the wood to the previous owners in better shape than when it arrived.

I agree that staying busy is the best prescription for heading off depression.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lumberjock Pens*
> 
> Most of you know of my health issues. Since we've been getting winter in May lately, I have been having some bad days. On top of that, I'm going through just a "blah" spell. I have only done one small project since finishing the modular marble machine. I built Matthius Wandell's wooden ir engine. It turned into something I call the DODGE, Dad's Old Dead Garage Expiriment. It didn't work. I haven't given up on it. It is something I will rebuild in the future. In the meantime though, I needed some kind of inspiration to get my butt in gear.
> I started doing some much needed shop cleanup. While doing so, I was thinking on something to work on next that would inspire me enough to push through this bad spell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since starting on the wood turning adventures, several people have sent me wood. Also I had small pieces of wood from before beginning turning that I have now cut into pen blanks. While straightening all this, I got a bit of inspiration. I gathered up what woods came from what different people and decided to make some pens.
> First I am going to go through the building of these pens. Towards the end, I will list each recipient of these pens and each of their contricutions towards this and, hopefully, it will all make sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After arranging woods in different ideas until I found something I was happy with, this is what I came up with. It is six different woods. They are cut on a sixty degree angle. The two ends are just what I thought looked proportional. The rest of the pieces came out to about three quarters of an inch thick to be able to fit all the pieces in the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glueup started to become messy by the time I was through. I think I learned something from this. Next time, I would only glue two or three pieces at a time on each pen, and let that set, before adding one more piece at a time. Doing this many indiviual cut pieces at a time, things seemed to want to move more than I wanted.
> On two of the pens, all the pieces moved a equally large amount, leaving a staggered look to the pen. By the time I cut away the saw tooth looking pieces to make the pen blank in a usable shape for drilling and mounting, there was barely enough material left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these after trimming the pieces up so I could start preparing them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided I wanted to keep with the same colored harware throughout all the pens. This turned out to be gold plated since that what I first rounded up enough of. Throughout the project, it turned out to be three different style kits, but all similar in design and the same finish.
> As I prepared the blanks and drilled them, I put each set of blanks in the bag with the hardware to keep from mixing things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is one of the seven pens. All of them, after turning, got a CA glue finish. On top of the CA glue, I always prefer to also put a coat of paste wax and buff them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I like to call these the Lumberjock pens. Starting sat the top, near the cap, the woods are ziricote, walnut, mahogany, maple, sweetgum, and box elder. Now I'd like to tell you the recipent of these pens and why. You see, one of the things I love about making pens is that it gives me the opportunity to make projects from woods that I would otherwise never get to work with, because I only need small pieces to make pens. With that being said, explaining the recipients will, I hope, make all this make more sense.
> 
> Seven pens.
> Kreegan gave me the ziricote.
> Chips gave me the walnut.
> Grizzman gave me the mahogany.
> JL7 gave me the maple.
> Dave gave me the sweetgum.
> Boxcarmarty gave me the box elder.
> Eddie gave me the lathe that all this was turned on.
> Now each of these guys will have a pen that they each know they made a contribution to, and that the other woods and the tool it was all done on came from another Lumberjock.
> I'd also like to note one more person again. I did not make this person because they told me they didn't want one. It did send something else a while back. However, Doe donated the gift card that bought the hardware that is on these pens.
> 
> I will be giving Eddie, Dave, and Chips their pens when I see them. The other four pens (it may be June with my current finances) I will be shipping to the recipients. I hope each of you enjoy your pens. Thank you for your support you have given me. Without you all I would never get to work with so many different species of woods. Until I joined and met some people here on Lumberjocks, all my adventures had been limited to about four different species of woods. You all opened up a whole new world to me. Thank you.


Shane, I started to go with a forty five degree angle, but decided I wanted something different. I can't tell you why I chose thirty degrees besides I just thought it would look good.

Marty, CA glue is the most common finish for pens. It gives a good luster to the finish and when fully cured is harder and more durable than most other finishes. The reason for this is because a pen lives a hard life, being handled constantly.

Andy, since I'm learning constantly new tricks, once I figured this out, the glueup was no problem. The first few pens were a pain in the rear. Then I remembered something I'd read online. I clamped the first piece to a jig I'd made up. I applied glue to the next piece that went on it. Next I spray accelerator on the first piece and immediately stuck the piece with glue on it in place. This sticks it in place instantly. The only drawback to this method is you'd better make sure you bring the pieces together correctly. The glue sets instantly, so there are no adjustment time if you don't bring them together correctly. Luckily though, as long as you're not far off, any mistakes on a square blank will be turned away as you turn the blank round. That's the beauty of turning. If you mess up, just turn it a little smaller and make your mess up disappear. Of course this only works to a certain point. Eventually if you mess up enough you'll turn it until there is nothing left to turn.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Turning Something Besides Wood*









This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more. 
Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe. 
The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


Well this is defiantly another "twist" in your turning…..well done.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


Thank you Jeff. I try to keep things fresh.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


That looks interesting….

I've got a huge toenail clipping, that you can turn!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


Thanks Randy.
If the clipping is about a half inch square and about two inches long, send it on my way.


----------



## jumbojack

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


how was the smell?


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


yea william, did you need an air mask, antler being hair, would smell something awful when turned, i would think…but you did a great job with this, what about some moose antler, what kind of pen can you turn with it…lol..actually i better not ask you that, you will come up with something…...and william you are right about trying to work your way through the pain, but like you a lot of times that is just impossible..but your doing it, and your a hero to your family and friends…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


I don't know about the smell. It didn't smell afterwards, but while turning and sanding I wore the respirator mask you see on my face in my avatar photo. I read somewhere on the internet that the dust from antlers can be very harmful to your respiratory system. So I took no chances and wore the mask. I'll have raise it up next time just for a second to see if it smells.

Grizz, do you have some moose antler? Now I want some moose antler.

Thanks guys for the support.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


yes william i do have some, ill have to see if i have enough to send any, if i do you will hear from me on it, good to know about the antler dust, i wear a mask most of the time, but i might have let is pass on that thinking it was no big deal, thanks for the heads up on that….well i hope to feel better tomorrow, i hope you do..until morning breaks, keep your powder dry, and watch your top knot…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


Thanks Grizz. I was actually joking. I had no idea that you would actually have any. If you have it to spare though, you know that if you send me some I will try to send you a pen back. 
You notice I said "try". The reason is I also learned there are pitfalls to turning antler.

I messed up three blanks before getting the first successful one. I am learning and am a little more knowledgeable for the next one, but it is hard shaping, drilling, and preparing a blank out of these. It is neither square nor round. The way I done it was cut a section longer than needed, turned it between centers until round so I'd have a flat reference, then cut it square on the ends. Next I glued in the tubes, used my sanding doo-hickey on the lathe to square up the ends, then turned it for a pen. 
Two of the trial pieces the hardness of the antler caused the bit to wander a bit and exit the side. Another one developed a crack as I got near final size. 
I guess what I'm saying is I will try to get you a pen if you send me some to try, but I aint making no promises.

As for the antler dust, I don't believe everything I see on the internet, but can believe the bit about the antler dust being harmful. When sanding it, it is such a fine powder that it resembles talcum powder. I don't think I'd want that in my lungs since it is mostly clacium. I can't see how that would be good for breathing. The chips while turning are of course larger, but I decided not to take chances there either.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


Very nice William. My neighbor offered my some deer antler for turning. I have not yet got them… He's 80 and can't remember where they're at….. One o these days, I'll help him find em


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


Go pick his brain for the location of them Roger. I've seen your amazing work and know that you'll enjoy turning antler.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


thats a cool pen ,i may have some antlers around if you need em


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


Very nice pen William.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


Thanks Eddie. I will gladly take all the antlers I can get if you don't want to hang on to them. I've made a few phone calls today to a few hunters I know. I've been unsuccessful on locating sources for more antlers.

Thank you Mike.


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


That is a nice pen, antler looks great after a few years of use.
Jamie


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turning Something Besides Wood*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is deer antler. Ever since I first seen this in the Penn State Catalogue I have wanted to try this. I live in Mississippi though. This is arguably the deer hunting capital of the world. There is no way I was paying for deer antlers when I knew that, if I asked enough people, someone around here had some lying around that would let me have them.
> As it turns out, I kept forgetting about it though and finally got around to asking someone. Or rather, my wife asked someone. The maintenance man where she works at mentioned that he was a deer hunter and she asked him about deer antler, and he brought he a couple of racks the next day. So I was correct. The first person asked about them here had some for me.
> I really enjoyed turning this. It was definately different than turning wood. I have enough left to do maybe two more pens out of the antlers he sent with my wife to me. I will have to be on the lookout for more.
> Also, I've noticed other things, like bull horns in the catalogues. I don't know where I'd get that around here, but it's got me thinking about wild bore tusks? Basically, it seems these days that anything I see softer than metal, I start to wonder how it would turn on the lathe.
> The man didn't ask for anything in return, but of course this first pen goes to the man who gave me the antlers.


Thanks Jamie.
I haven't seen one after a few years of use.
I know the guy who gets this one though.
I'll try to remember to ask him to see it in a couple of years.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*A Gift From a Friend*

Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.








Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try. 








It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
I had my doubts.
















I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing. 
So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest. 
This stuff is amazing. 
Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try. 
Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
























The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


oh happy day william, a new product that helps in the sanding area, so glad it worked…and those pens are stunning, so the wood talks to ya…are you sure you have a tight seal on that mask you wear, do you talk back to it, and if you do, what does it say after that…..lol…sorry i could not resist…but i know what you mean, its part of being a wood worker, and an artist…its a talent that god has given and you are using it well….....grizz


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


Yes, this stuff makes a world of difference. 
And I won't even start with you the conversations I have with the tools.
Thanks for commenting buddy.


----------



## sras

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


Thanks for the great review! Very helpful.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


William, I have been preaching the Abranet gospel ever since Rance turned me on to it a couple of years ago. It lasts forever on my Dynabrade air ROS and the dust collection is wonderful!

The pens without the center ring are by far my favorites of all you have done! Good job. And happy sanding!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


Try them out if you get the chance Steve. I am convince, and I don't often praise new products that differ this much from the tried and true.

Andy, I had never heard of it until this friend sent me these. I love them. If they last half as long for me as others have claimed, they will definately be my new abrasive of choice. I've only tried it on pens so far. I am now interested how well they work for regular old hand sanding. I bet I know how to find out.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


William, When the hooks wear out on my ROS discs, I save them and use them for hand sanding. I just can't wear this stuff out!

Wish they made Abranet strips for my drum sander!


----------



## wormil

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


I definitely want to try this stuff.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


great review william going to get some sounds like a way to go for sanding ,i was going to ask if it came in diffrent grit but looked at the link ,thanks


----------



## tomd

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


Thanks for the review and picture, I will try it.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


Andy, I have a couple of old ROS sanders around somewhere in the shop. I'll keep that in mind.

Rick, it is a little pricey. I went and actually looked at the prices last night. I think it'll be about on line with what I normally spend on sandpaper though by the time you figure in how much is in a box (I cut the strips in half to make square pieces), the longevity everyone has told me about, and the ability of it not to clog up like regular sandpaper. I have sanded two pens now with the same set. Normally one pen leads up a similar size sheet of sandpaper.

Eddie, I don't know how well it will work for other types of sanding. Others say great. I'll let you know, but I've only used it on my woodturning so far.

Tom, thanks for commenting. Give it a try if you get the chance.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


I think it is by far the cheapest sanding discs I have ever bought


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


I'm gunna getz meeze some of this stuff….
As soon as I have a "real" project, deserving of a good sanding!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


Andy, I am starting to think the same thing. I started figuring up today how much I have tied up in "cheap" sandpaper. If this stuff lasts like everyone claims, it'll save a fortune over time.
Randy, all projects deserve a good sanding.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


The least expensive source of Abranet I have found is AB's Gloves and Abrasives when they have the free shipping deal on. They also had by far the best price on the Dynabrade air ROS.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


I bought some a few months ago from Woodchuckers where you can get it by the foot. I figure it's cheap because it doesn't really wear out. I've used it sanding flat and it works great. I'm going to try it with a sanding block and hopefully it won't lose too much of the anti-clog properties.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


Thanks Doe. It's good to know that it works good on flat sanding as well. I was going to try that when I got a chance.


----------



## mochoa

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


Thanks for the info William.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


Very nice William. I really like Bicote and Cocobolo for pens. They look very classy. The Paduk is also nice tho


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Gift From a Friend*
> 
> Recently, I received an unexpected package in the mail. When I opened it, I discovered that a good friend had sent me several packages of Abranet abrasive. I had never heard of it before then, but this friend told me it was supposed to be great for wood turners. I was getting ready for the cradle project at the time though and had no choice to set it aside for the moment.
> Well, I finished the cradle and was anxious to see if this stuff was any good. Since receiving it, I'd looked it up and read some good things about it. I wanted to see if it were true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Abranet is a new take on sandpaper. Now I am always a tad skeptical when it comes to new takes of age old products. Sometimes there is just no way to reinvent the wheel. I am, however, always willing to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a mesh type material with abrasive somehow glued or otherwise attached to the material. The idea is that dust goes through the pad and doesn't clog up like regular sandpaper and last longer, and give a better, cleaner, sanded surface.
> Yea, right. so does it do what it says it does?
> I had my doubts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned a pen out of bocote. I put the sandpaper aside and used nothing but the Abranet. The idea here, for me, was to see how good a job it done without allowing my regular methods interfere with the testing.
> So, my review of Abranet, in short, is this. Whoever thought this bright idea up, I want to kiss them right on the lips. I am happier with it than a fat kid at a pie eating contest.
> This stuff is amazing.
> Any of you turners out there, you know how quickly and easily sandpaper clogs up and you have to move to another spot on it. With Abranet, if it does seem to be getting a lot of dust buildup on it, tap it on something. I just took my finger and sort of thumped at it. It knocked the dust out of the little holes and it was all of a sudden, magically, like I'd just grabbed a new piece of abrasive again. You can't do that with sandpaper.
> Pricing and selection may vary, but Abranet is available through Woodcraft or Penn State if any of you are interested in giving it a try.
> Also, I'd like to thank my friend very much for sending it to me. I would probably never have tried it if you hadn't sent me that package. This is my new favorite abrasive.
> Anyway, that was out of the way, but now I was anxious to make another pen. I have several woods I've gotten lately that I hadn't had a chance to try yet. Bocote was one of those woods. Another was padauk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The padauk pen I had planned on turning similar to the bocote. I just wanted a simple design using the kit as it was intended. However, and I know this sounds cliche, but sometimes when I'm working on a project, the wood speaks to me. It tells me to go in a different direction than I intended. That was the case here.
> When turning, I often stop, as one should, to check the process. When I stopped this pen, the wood had this absolutely stunning flaming look to it and was just screaming, "don't separate me with a metal ring". So I didn't. I removed the middle bushing and finished turning it without the band. Seeing the result, I'm glad I did.


Thank you Roger.
I think that is probably the thing I like most about pen turning. I get to try woods that I probably would otherwise never get to even touch.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Promises And Challenges*

Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
















This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time. 
The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
















This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory. 
If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.

.

I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen. 
While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
























It was a success!
Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much. 
I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style. 
I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface. 
between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
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> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


Not only did you overcome the "wrong direction" grain…..
You went on to do it justice, by leaving out the center ring!!!

Yeah, you are right William…..
You are a crappy wood worker! I don't want no stinkin' pool table!!!


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## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


If everyone felt as you and I do Randy, none of the pens would have center rings. I like them better without it too. I have to make some that others will like though. Now, the deer antler pens I would use the center ring anyway. Since the two sections come from different parts of the antler rack, the colors would not match up right without the center ring.
And yes, I agree I'm a crappy wood worker.

Nevermind about the crappy wood worker jokes friends. It's an inside joke. Randy wants a pool table. I just want to throw him in the pool.


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## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


william i like the antler pens but that zebra is my pick , the Abranet seem to work well the finish looks great ,you must of worked to a fine grit it shines


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## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


I love the zebra wood one best, but the antler is nice too.


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## Roger Clark aka Rex

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


Nice pens William, something the write home about.


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## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


The zebra pen is fantastic. I could only hope to become such a lousy woodworker.


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## wormil

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


Way to persevere on that zebrawood!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


Thank you all.
I liked the zebra wood pen best as well. I am going to have to see if I can find some more of their "messed up" wood. 
As for the grits, I am using the Abranet, working from 80 grit, up all the way to 600 grit. Then after that I am using sandpaper starting at 800 grit and going through 2000 grit. Is this excessive? Well some of you have heard me say this before. I believe that anything worth doing is worth over-doing.


----------



## oldnovice

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


*William* these are outrageous looking pens. Did you take a dust collection precautions when doing the antler ones? When I lived in Germany many, many, many years ago I had some traditional German outfits with antler buttons as that was part of what them traditional.

I don't want to *HORN* in on your material choices but if you are looking for new material … try paper! No kidding paper counter top material is similar to other man made counter top material without the grit.

I get cut offs for a reasonable price compared to Corian and others. It comes in many colors and thicknesses plus it can be finished to high gloss, satin, or low luster.

I got my cut my pnly requirements were minimum size and color. I had to pay for the next largest piece of cut off otherwise there would be another cut off charge.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


Novice, I don't have dust collection in my shop exactly, but I do wear my respirator when working with a lot of materials, such as antler. 
Thanks for the paper counter top advice. I will keep that one in mind. I am always trying new ideas. A good friend gave me a piece of real thick plastic pipe today I am going to try and turn.


----------



## oldnovice

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


*William* it' fun to work with that stuff because you expect Corian like noise when your cutting and there is virtually none, more like plastic.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


I'll keep that in mind. 
I am gathering another material for a trial at a process I seen in an article about making a pen blank from leather.
I've seen all kinds of crazy stuff, from corn cobs to glued up pastas. I have fun trying new things though and see so much to do with it. I am still being constantly amazed at all the different woods I've been able to try since starting to turn pens, and still have more to go.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


That zebrawood pen is now my favorite! No center ring is a good thing in my opinion.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


Thank you Andy.
And I agree about the no center ring thing. I think I will start making them about 50/50. That ought to satisfy everyone, and me.


----------



## oldnovice

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


William you said , "I am gathering another material for a trial at a process I seen in an article about making a pen blank from leather."

Really, that must be one heck of a piece of leather to stay stiff while turning.

When I worked as a summer intern, back in 1968, used to turn rubber parts by freezing it first and turned out some really, pardon the pun, cool parts.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


The leather is punched out into small circles and pressed roughly into the shape of a blank. Then it is soaked in gap filling thin CA glue. Then you allow it to completely cure and turn. It looks like a neat pen.
I can't find the original article, but here is one such article about a leather cigar pen.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


The zebra is really cool. I like it better sideways - it reminds me of sandstone. Thanks for the link for the leather pen, I want to try that some time.

I recently saw an article about using pinecones; the blank is made using many coats of CA glue. I've also seen tubes wrapped in denim. Talk about recycling . . .


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


Here is a link to IAP library.
Look at the bottom of the page. 
Each section has a drop down menu to different articles. 
It is amazing the ideas I'd seen on that site.
Pine cones, denim, leather, corn cobs, aluminum, and all kinds of things I'd never thought of until reading about it there. 
There is also articles about different style blanks, pen styles, and so much more.
I think I'll be years trying all the ideas.
The possibilities are endless.

Here are only a few of the many ideas that can be found there.
Denim
Corn Cob
Colored Cloth
Postage Stamps


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


William, Awesome job with that Zebrawood. That is one of my favorite woods and with the grain running in that direction it is 5x or more cooler looking then normal.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


I done another zebra wood pen with the wood running the length of the pen. I believe it was in yesterday's blog. It looks bland compared to the one in this blog entry.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


I really like the antler with that black chrome/titanium kit


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Promises And Challenges*
> 
> Today I needed to get to work on some deer antlers and fulfill a promise I'd made. You see, I told several people that if they'd find me some deer antlers, I'd make them a pen. I had done one a while back. I still had to make one for my son though who had located me some antlers. I also wanted to make one for my display for anyone who comes to my shop to look at them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my son. I was only able to get this one pen out of three racks of antlers. I got the pen done because a promise is a promise. However, I had to show him what I'm looking for in antlers so he'll know what to look for next time.
> The antlers he'd brought me were all bleached out from age. Most of them were almost completely white. When they are that bleached out, the outer parts of the antler becomes brittle, while the inside becomes soft. I have already found out from experience that this sometimes makes for interesting projectiles coming from the lathe. I was glad I was able to get the pen done for him though. At least he tried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I made for my display. I pick shapes for these pens to try and leave at least a tiny bit somewhere on the pen of the outer part of the antler. This gives an area to show that it is in fact deer antler. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would just look like dirty ivory.
> If you look at the outer antler on this pen and the first one above, you can see the difference in color. This pen has a more natural look to it while the first one has a color that is light enough that it almost looks to me like a defect instead of antler.
> 
> .
> 
> I got these two pens done and was thinking on what I wanted to do next. I decided to tackle a different animal, the zebra. No I don't have any zebra parts to turn. I have some zebra wood though that has been driving me nuts.
> A while back, I went to Picken's Hardwood. It is a little piece of heaven on earth in Clinton Mississippi. They have more species of hard woods in one place than I've ever seen.
> While there, I picked up a piece of zebra wood for next to nothing. It was so cheap because the grain was running the wrong way. What I mean is, when making pens, it is preferable to have the grain running along the length of the pen. This piece I bought had it running the opposite direction. It was a small off cut from a board and wasn't much good for anything else. I was told by the lady there that it probably wouldn't be good for pens either. That sounded like a challenge to me, and I like challenges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a success!
> Now let me tell the truth about why this excited me so much.
> I bought the blank and cut it up as carefully as I could. I wound up with four pen blanks out of it. This was the fourth attempt at making this pen, so it was my last blank in this style.
> I try to tell about all my adventures. What I don't always tell is all my misadventures. This zebra wood pen is a good example of that. Three different times now I've tried making this pen. Three different times I would get almost done and the blank would blow apart on the tubes. It is a pretty hard wood. I was keeping my tools as sharp as I could. When it got close though, it seemed to always be too much for the cross grain to handle.
> I set about it this time though with a different plan. I turned it down as a small a cylinder as I was comfortable with to start with. Then I start making the tapering cuts towards the ends with a freshly sharpened skew chisel. Before getting too close though, I put the tools aways and went to eighty grit sandpaper. I finished getting the blanks down to size using the sandpaper. Then of course I went through the grits to get a good finishable surface.
> between the Abranet abrasive I told about yesterday, and my improving skills at applying a CA glue finish, I am extremely happy how this one turned out.


Thanks Roger.
That is gunmetal finish on the kit hardware. I like that finish myself on a lot of pens. The gold and chrome that comes with the quantity deal I've been buying is a little bright for my taste. Some people like it though.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*The One Piece*

The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.








The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
I was quite happy with the result.
The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout. 
I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.








I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad. 
Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
So…......








Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it. 
Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


----------



## JoeinGa

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


VERY nice pens! And I'm with your wife, I like the smooth design too.

I'll be glad to send you my address so you can mail me one


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


Fantastic!!! Now that's what I'm talking about.
This is one technique that I will surely employ….
Once I finally setup my lathe!!!

Great job William!


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


The one piece pens look great.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


they look great william you have come a long way on these pens , the chicarella could be called cinderalla wood it dont have something no wood gran ,the burns helped but it still needs something a glass slipper maybe just seem like a bland wood


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


Thank you all. I'm glad you all like them. 
I'm getting quite a bit of pens made. Now I need to figure out a way to sell them.


----------



## Kreegan

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


Put me in the likes the one piece pens better camp too. Those are some good looking pens, William. Keep it up.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


The one piece seems to be everyone's favorite! Certainly my favorite. I can see where drilling that hole that long can be very tricky. But looks like you have it mastered (unless there is a pile of scrapped pieces with crooked holes somewhere).


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


Thanks Rich. I think I will keep it up since I enjoy it so much.

Andy, thank you. Actually, I only messed up one blank, and I was able to save it.
The cocobolo blank tore through the side at the very end of the drilling. I was able to trim the blank back until it had just enough material left beside the hole to allow me to turn down to the size of the nib. Then I squared up the ends to match the angled hole. This made the pen about a quarter inch shorter than it should be, but I doubt anyone would ever notice that unless I told them. 
It actually isn't that hard to drill the hole with a little imagination in a 3/4×3/4" blank. The only reason the cocobolo became an issue I think was the size. It was my last cocobolo blank and it was only 1/2×1/2" That didn't leave much room for error.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


Wow, my vote is for the smooth one as well. You are a genius at solving problems with what you have.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


Thank you Doe.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


William these pens look good. Thanks for the article it is on my reading list for as soon as I am done goofing with a pen in the shop.  Look forward to reading it.

Something to try with the bland looking woods is to burn it with another piece of wood. That is what I have done to add depth to an otherwise bland looking piece.



CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


Thanks Clieb. I'm going to have to do some experimenting on that idea. Do you just hold the wood to the spinning pen blanks until it heats up enough?


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


Pretty much. I use the corners edges and just start moving it back and forth and holding it in the areas to darken some spots or widen areas. Really soft woods do not do well as the burner just makes lines.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


Thanks. I'll give that one a try.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


Very kool William. Thnx for the link also.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


Thank you Roger.


----------



## bjsely

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


Hi William. Even though this is an older forum topic it's worth a try. Do you know the scientific name for Chicarella? Your post #34 seem to be the only place on the internet that comes up when I submit a search. Thanks.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


The chicarella came from a hardwood supply company here in Mississippi. I am not sure if that is even the proper name for it. It was the name on it when I bought it though. 
I try to stick with woods that I can easily and quickly look up online and research. Sometimes though I see a piece that is pretty to me and pick it up only to find out later I can't find anything out about it.


----------



## bjsely

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The One Piece*
> 
> The feedback I've been getting on the pens I've been making told me that a lot of people, maybe even most, like the pens best without the band, or center ring. I wanted to go a step further though. It absolutely pains me to cut some of the woods to make these pens because, no matter how well you line up the grain while assembling them, the wood never seems to look as beautiful as it did before it was split down the middle to cover the two blanks to be used with the slimline pen kits that I've been using.
> What I wanted to do was to figure out a way to use one solid piece of wood for a pen without spending more than I can afford for higher priced kits. I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't seem to figure it out. Then I stumbled across this article, realized how simple it is, and couldn't believe I hadn't gotten it till now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one piece pen I made was out of ziricote. I started with this wood because I just think it is a beautiful wood. Also, the last pen I made with this species of wood, I used a blank that was so pretty that I think it actually physically hurt me to cut it.
> I was quite happy with the result.
> The hardest part of making the one piece pen, in my opinion, is getting the seven millimeter hole drilled cleanly all the way through a four and a half inch long blank. There are several ways to do it. I will tell you how I done it, but keep in mind that it is not the only way.
> I think drilling the blank on the lathe would be the best way to go. I have a drill chuck for my tailstock, but did not feel confident enough in my ability to get it perfectly centered in my expansion jaws to drill such a small blank straight enough not to have a side blowout.
> I decided to go with the drill press. I had a long enough drill bit. The problem is that my drill press only has four inches of travel on the quill. So I drilled as far as I could with it. I drilled slowly and backed out often to clear the material. It is easy to overheat the bit going this deep. Then after I'd drilled four inches, as far as I could, I loosened the chuck, drew the bit out of the chuck about three quarters of an inch, and then finished plunging all the way through the other end of the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was happy enough that I decided to then try a new wood that I had never turned before. This pen is made of chicarella. The blank looked amazing. However, after turning it almost down to size, it looked instead kind of bland. So I played with the shape and added some burn lines to dress it up a tad.
> Then my wife seen the pens. She absolutely loved the ziricote pen. The chicarella? Not so much. She explained though that it really wasn't the wood she liked about the first one, but the one piece design and the smooth shape. Then she left the shop. This gave me ideas. She liked the pen design, but not the wood. I remembered that a while back she looked at one of my cocobolo pens and went on and on about what a beautiful wood that was.
> So…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone ought to know by now. If I see an opportunity to make my lovely wife something that I think she'll like, I do it.
> Here is her cocobolo, one piece, pen.


Hi William. Thanks for replying. It was an unexpected surprise. I recently acquired a beautiful piece of wood with the name Chicarella written on it. It is not at all bland. I'm on a mission to do all I can to find the scientific name. If you'd be willing to share the name of the hardwood supply company, contact info and approximate date you got the wood I will give them a call. It's worth a try. Thanks.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Used Ideas On New Pens*

I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
















The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank. 
While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
































Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank. 
I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next. 
This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


Nice job William. I will be headed over there in the morning to check out all the new marble machines. Get the coffee hot. Betty will love the pen. You have done a fine job.

Again.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


I like all of the one piece pens but the cross grained zebra is very special.

How does the mechanism work to advance the point in the one piece pens?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


Thanks Dave.

Andy, you turn the nib (the pointed metal piece near the writing point) just as you would turn the bottom barrel on most trim line pins. The one piece works the same. The upper tube is glued in, the lower tube is not. The lower tube has the nib and mechanism pressed into it and then inserted into the glued upper tube. 
I hope all that makes sense.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


Very nice William…...I'm interested as well in Andy's comment…....how does the ink meet the paper? Cool pens for sure….


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


Ok - you posted like 2 seconds before my question….


----------



## patron

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


good to see you working new areas

i too like the one piece ones

keep them coming
you are definitely on to something


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


That's kinda what I thought.

Have you done any mechanical pencils?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


Thanks Jeff and David.

Andy, I have only done the twist style pens. I'm hoping to one day sell some of these so I can afford to try some new things. Presently, the el-cheapo slim line kits are my choice means to get practice.
So far I have sold a grand total of one pen.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


Your pen sales are about the same as my box sales! We need to hire a marketing person. Just look at us: would YOU but something from us?


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## NormG

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


great work


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


That's an ongoing problem of mine Andy. I've always been a good maker and doer, but never a great salesman.

Even when I done mechanic work, I stayed in the shop and let others talk to customers. Most of my former bosses thought I didn't need to be around customers because I wouldn't lie to them and try to upsale them on anything. It just isn't in my nature.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


Yeah I hear ya. My tag line is on the license plate holder of my practice vehicle. I think I'm NOT a "people person"


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


William & Andy,
I'd buy a pen &/or box from you guys….
Then again, I do shop at HF!!!


----------



## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


Another nice pen, William
Andy can make fancy pen boxes, you put the pens in them and sell them as a set. 
Randy has a lot of time on his hands - he can market them.


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## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


great looking pens ,love the celtic one ,i dont know how to sell stuff either i sell chairs and benches but aint nobody getting wealthy here if i make a couple 100 im happy and sometimes its a little more some times 0 …........i heard of starving artist wood worker plow a pretty hard row too i think


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## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


That's an idea Sandra.

Eddie, we're going to start just sending everything to you to sell.

Thank you both for your comments.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


Sandra, Sounds like a plan!

And we'll trust Randy to forward the proceeds to William and myself?


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


Of course you can trust me!!! ;^)
I'll just need to set up a Cayman Island bank account….


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


nice!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


Thank you Mike.


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


William,
Have you tried a slightly oversized blank and then not cutting completed thru it to insert your laminations. It will help keep the alignment correct.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


Yes, that is the way I normally do it. I have had issues with that as well though. Doing this one by cutting all the way through was just another error in my trial and error learning curve.
Doing two lamination sets works great by not cutting quite all the way through. For some odd reason though, as soon as I try for a third or fourth, I wind up with issues. I am starting to think it is one of those techniques that I'm not exactly doing wrong. I'm just not doing it just right.


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


William,
I have found the same thing with my rolling pins and not exactly certain what causes it. 
At first I thought I was not using the same alignment on each cut. I even rebuilt my table saw jig and added more reference marks. Still had some variations at the "tips" of the knots. 
I am beginning to think it might be in the slot/insert gluing process. I really load up the glue and then apply LOTS of pressure on the blank to assure there are no voids that will manifest themselves during the turning procedure. I think this might be introducing enough deformation of the blank that it is causing the problem.
As the pins are not massed produced. I haven't had an opportunity to experiment further.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


It sounds like you're doing the rolling pins much the same way as I'm doing the pens. I probably add too much clamping pressure actually. If I don' t though, I've noticed voids when turning. The voids look terrible on a pen and, as you know, can be potentially dangerous when turning. That extra clamping pressure though seems to throw things out of alignment.
So that is why I tried the cut all the way through on the pen in this article. I'm going back to part way through, because cutting all the way through made my issues worse, not better.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


All super nice William. You've been gittin er done


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Used Ideas On New Pens*
> 
> I went into the shop today just to fiddle around a bit. I decided to try some things I'd done before, but now on the one piece pens that I done from yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pen I done today was zebra wood. The one I done a few days ago with the grain run across the pen looked so nice that I wanted to try out the one blank I had with the grain running the length of the blank.
> While it is a nice enough pen, I think it pales in comparison to the one I done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, although I haven't exactly gotten it down to a science or anything, I enjoy working with the process for celtic crosses. I have yet to have one turn out exactly like I want it too, but they always seem to be nice enough to be keepers anyway.
> This one I tried to make special because it is for the wife of a friend of mine. This one has five layers of very thin strips sandwiched together to make the material to glue in the blank.
> I ripped very thin layers of mahogany and maple on my band saw and glued them up into one continuous strip and allowed to to dry while I was working on the zebra wood pen. Then, every change I got, I would stop on the first pen and make a cut in the blood wood blank to insert and glue the material into this pen.
> The idea here was to have four circles glued in at a forty five degree angle, one on each side of the blank. I have been having trouble with getting things working right past two inserts while cutting almost all the way through the blanks. So on this one I cut completely through and glued three pieces, the two parts of the blank and the insert, allowed to dry, then moved to the next.
> This did not work right either. By the time I got two insert layers in, the lines were off. I thought about scrapping the whole idea on this one. I instead though decided to use the third layer of insert material to break up the misaligned lines and glue it in straight across.
> I have yet to get the look I'm after with the celtic cross, but I'll keep trying. I know the process and how it is supposed to come together. Sometimes though things are easier said than done.


Thank you Roger.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Good To Be Back*

I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.








Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better. 
I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.








I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set. 








I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them. 








Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.








I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.

Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different. 
I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.








All I can say about this is, it is interesting. 
I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one. 
For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools. 
Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
And finally,








I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with. 
It is fun to work with though.








So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.








And I made a fat one without the center ring.








Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.








I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.








Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.








Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.

Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans. 
Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


William, You never disappoint! The new pens are all special. My fav is the fat one with no center ring.

Did you catch Sandra's comment about McGyver on meds? She's a keeper.

The pen displays are perfect!


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


Glad to see you were able to get back up to the plate….
And knock a few out of the park!!!

As soon as you mentioned the corian countertop, I knew a pen would "turn" up!!!

They all look great!!!


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


Glad you are feeling better my friend…...

That is quite a lineup of goodies for sure….nice work…

I especially like those marking knives…..great to have great friends…..


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


Pens and pens and more pens. Now they all have a bed to lay in. Looking good William.
I do like em. Keep up the good work!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


Thank you all.

Jeff.
The marking knives do work great. I sharpened them up enough that they cut hair on my arm, and can, with the handles now, comfortable mark a precise line, way more precise than with my pens or a pencil.

Dave.
I like the pen till better than the old display board I had anyway. I think it is a much nicer looking display.

Randy.
I'll try to turn anything at least once. I'm still trying to figure out how to turn a piece of pipe I have. It's thick rubber like material. I messed up the first attempt. Next time I will try the skew chisel. It cuts smoother in most material than the other tools.

Andy.
I caught the McGyver comment. I desperately wanted to make a duct tape comment, but figured I'd let that one slide without trying to sound too much like a ***********************************. 
Hey, I wonder if I can turn duct tape?


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


Have you tried freezing the "rubber"???


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


hello there William, what a great blog, not just the pens, but in hearing of the fortitude you have to go forward in the face of pain and personal trials. and then your work comes next, i love the new display box, its perfect, and the pen you are showing is perfect, consider it sold, ill pm more details in the morning…hang tough William, your destined for better things….grizz


----------



## Robb

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


Awesome work! Glad to see you posting.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


Didn't know you were down William, but I'm glad to see that you are back. The pens look great and the display is right on too! I loved the wicked looking marking knives you got from Dave.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


Randy, I haven't thought of freezing it. That might be an idea to try if the skew chisel doesn't do the job.

Grizz, I'm glad you like it.

Thank you Robb.

Mike, thank you. The marking knives are more special to me because a good friend made them. He got into forging a while back and is making some cool stuff.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


Glad you're back up & atom. A really nice way to display those fine writing instruments. I likes it a lot.


----------



## Roger Clark aka Rex

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


Well done William, glad to see you back in the saddle. Pens and display box are first rate and unique, Nice tools from Dave.


----------



## revwarguy

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


Very nice display for your pens. Love your work on them. Makes me want to get out the lathe, something I haven't done in far too long…


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


love those pens i like the one that matches the counter top the best ,that was cool a matching set


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


William, Glad to see you back up. What a great looking selction of projects. The one piece Bocote looks awesome. as to the Purple Heart I have seen those color variations as well. Make syou wonder if everything being sold is the real thing. 
Hope you get plenty of shop time in the next few weeks. Look forward to seeing your experiments.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


Thank you all.

Ctl.
I have given up on actually verifying and being certain on exact species of some of these woods. There is so much variations, so many differing opinion, that I think it is impossible to be certain enough to satisfy everyone. I go with what it was sold as, research it on the interent if I can find it and call it that. However, I have on occasion had people look at some woods and flat out tell me I'm wrong. In those cases, I agree with them and move on. Since I am no wood expert, who am I to disagree?


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


I'm so glad to hear from you again, I've been worried. The display case is very elegant and I could see artists wanting one. Sycamore and sapelle look really good together and the case shows off your pens. Speaking of artists, the marking knives are works of art! Thanks for the tips on Corian. I've wanted to try it for some time and now I'll be prepared for it (or think twice). I had a laugh over the duct tape, trust you to think of it. That made me think of getting a shop pencil kit and just wrapping the tube with it - I wonder how it would wear.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


Why not?
I've gotten to the point now that, while I won't waste a pen kit on an unknown, I will chuck just about anything between centers and see how well it can be cut with different tools on the lathe. 
In doing so, I have learned of a few things I don't want to turn. The biggest one is aluminum. I read somewhere that you could turn aluminum using regular wood turning tools. Since I just happened to have a small piece in the shop, I gave it a try. Yes, you can turn aluminum using nothing but HSS tools. You have to be prepared though to sharpen your tools every twenty to thirty seconds. 
I also regularly scour the web for other ideas. Among the serious ideas I want to try one day are denim, corn cobs, and leather.


----------



## mochoa

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


wow youve been on fire man. I love those knves Dave made. Great job Dave!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Good To Be Back*
> 
> I know it's been peaceful around here. I got down for a bit, as I sometimes do, and haven't been able to get any wood work done to show ya'll.
> Well I'm back, and boy does it feel good to have something to actually show. It isn't much, but today was the most I've done in the shop in weeks. This post is actually more than just today's work. I've fiddled around a little here and there the laqst few weeks, just not enough for a post. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is, or was, my pen display stand. It was simply a dressed up piece of sapelle with some proper sized holes drilled into it that the pens were inserted in. This held them upright so they could be seen. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I was showing them to a friend one day though and noticed something horrifying. The finish on the metal end that sticks in the wood was messed up on some of the pens. From what I can figure, it was just the sharp edges of the holes wearing on them as the pens were removed and replaced numerous times when people take them out to look at. So I had to come up with something better.
> I was pondering this things for days when one day I seen one of my sons drawing. He is the artist one of the bunch and has this fancy pencil set he got for his last birthday. Anyway, looking at the way the pencils were neatly arranged in their case gave me an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took strips of sycamore and routed a groove in them with a three quarter inch router bull nose bit, and cut these strips into short sections. Then I glued those sections to three pieces of plywood and built a sapelle frame around it all to make a display so the pens could lay neatly in it all, much like the arrangement in my son's art set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made the second and third rows a little higher than the ones in front of them so it rose upwards as it goes back. This, in my opinion, just presented the pens better to someone standing in front of the display looking at all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime last week, my brother, the contractor, done a remodel job and stopped by my shop with a long piece of corian countertop material. He stops by sometimes to see if I want things before they go to the dump. I really didn't need a countertop, but I thought it would look nice at the front of my shop where I keep my coffee pot. At least it would look better than the old beat up table that had been there. Also, I immediately seen this material and wondered if I could turn a pen with it. So one of my older sons helped me install the countertop, and I was able to cut off some of it to save for pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I loved the way the pen turned out. I also thought this was a cool photo. It is the pen, laid on the countertop that I got the material from.
> 
> Next, I got a request from a friend for another pen just like the Lumberjock pens. Well I set out to make that, only to realize I was out of a couple of the material types to make another one just like it. Actually, I wasn't completely out, just low enough that I couldn't cut it up to make it exactly the same. One of the wood species I only had one small strip of. So I set my mind to work trying to figure out how to make a pen using the same material, make it interesting, and very different.
> I started gluing the seven types of material together. Then I cut it, flipped one side, and glued it back together. After that dried, I cut it again, flipped one side, and glued again. After multiple days of allowing glue to dry, cutting, flipping, and gluing again, I came up with something interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I can say about this is, it is interesting.
> I will have to wait until I can contact my friend to see if this fits the bill on what he wanted. If not, I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
> So, remember the corian pen? Well, since my brother gave me that material, I gave him that first pen. That meant I had to make another one. I had learned a couple of things about turning corian on the other one.
> For one thing, I learned that a scraper cuts it better than a gouge. Just hold the edge at a downward angle and it cuts the corian rather than scrape, and leave a much smoother finish than actual cutting tools.
> Next thing I learned was that you need to wear snug fitting safety glasses, not just a face shield, when working with corian. This stuff floats around in the air more than wood and is hell to get out of your eyes.
> And finally,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned to keep my shop brush nearby. This stuff sticks to everything like it's magnetized to it. A brush is required to get it off. You can swipe away at it and it'll get airborn and stick right back to whatever it was on to start with.
> It is fun to work with though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned another one to replace the one I gave my brother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I made a fat one without the center ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I turned a one piece purple heart pen. At least this was bought from my hardwood supplier as purple heart. I realized today though that I have three different pieces of purple heart that look nothing alike. I'm not sure if this means they are not all purple heart or if they are just from different trees and therefore look different. Either way, they look pretty, so it's alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking through my blanks for something else, and came across this interesting looking piece of bocote, and wanted to turn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was on a roll, and while looking through those blanks, I ran across this forgotten piece of spalted something. I call it spalted something because all I know about it is that is has a beautiful spalted pattern on it. I have no idea what kind of wood it is though. This came off a larger piece of wood that has this for sapwood, and heart wood that looks like mahogany. I have yet to find anyone who can definately identify it with certainty. So I'm calling it mystery wood. This piece I'm calling a spalted something pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before Father's Day, I talked to my buddy Dave about a marking knife. He refused payment, and brough me two of them that he forged himself. I made handles for them out of sapelle.
> 
> Well that's all for now. I was down, but not out. During the time I was down and not able to do much, I was steadily plotting and planning, and gluing up in the case of one of the pens, for my return. Some of you who know me know that even when I'm down, my mind is still working on that next project. It keeps me going. Now I just hope I can stay in the shop for a while without any more down time. Too much down time depresses me. I'd rather be making something besides just plans.
> Before I close this one though, I must thank you from the bottom of my heart you friends on this site who sent me private messages and emails with words of encouragement and offers of prayers. It is always a good feeling to know that someone out there misses you when you're down. Thank you all so much. I hope my return post has not disappointed you.


Thanks Mairico.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Solving Some Problems*

I've had a few "everything goes wrong" days. I guess everyone has had one of these at some time or another. I'm talking about days where everything you try and do only ends in failure or frustration. Well, when I have days like that, it always seems to end up being several days like that. So, Sunday, I took a much needed day off.
Now, with saying that, I have to explain what I mean by a "day off" for me. I have a lot of days I don't do much of anything. It's because there are day my health doesn't allow me to do much. When I take a "day off", I mean I took a day that I was actually in good enough shape to do something, and decided to do it away from the shop or home.
Anyway, with the explanation given, I took a day off and went fishing with one of my sons. We had a great time, and caught a good mess of bream. There is nothing in this world like having a fish dinner you caught yourself.








So anyway, I wanted to tell you all about that. Sometimes we all need a break. With that break, I cleared my mind. Then when I got back into the shop, I decided to turn a bowl. That's something I hadn't done in a little while. Well while gluing up the material for the bowl, one of the pieces slipped while fumbling with the clamps, and it was more out of balance than I cared to fight with on the lathe. It looked like my bad luck was still with me.
So today I went into the shop with a mission to fix a couple of problems I've had in the past.








The first problem I had was gluing up materials for bowls. I have been fighting with many clamps in the past. Somewhere on YouTube, while watching a bowl turning video, I seen a brilliantly designed bowl press. I wanted to make one. I couldn't see in that video many specifics on building it, but it wasn't complicated. I took some measurements and went at it. 
The hardest thing to figure out was how to take this large clamp I had and remove just the part I needed to use in the press. About the time I was debating on how to do this, my teenage son, James, came towards the back of the shop and said he wished he could help me today. Well, I told him, you came just in time. So I clamped this huge clamp up in the vice, got a hack saw, and showed him what I needed. James is a determined lad. It took him about an hour, but he removed the screw and threaded insert part of the clamp I needed and we were in business.








As I said earlier, it isn't a complicated design. I left plenty of room for gluing up bowls as deep as I would ever have a desire to do. If I'm doing a shallow bowl, just add spacer scrap material between the screw device and the top clamping plate, and clamp it all down. The advantage to this is going to be, with a center point of pressure, there is much less chance of material moving around like it does when I'm trying to wrestle with eight or ten clamps at once. Also, doing it this way is going to be much easier on my back.








Here, I have the first bowl clamped up in the press. There's a couple of things I'd like to note here. 
You may notice the wax paper under the bowl. This is so that any glue that squeezes out goes on the wax paper instead of gluing the bowl to the press. Wax paper is cheap and even when the glue does make it sort of stick to something, it peels right off.
The other thing I wanted to tell you is that after snapping this photo, I noticed some cracking starting on my main support for the screw assembly. I quickly unscrewed it, used some three inch screws going through some pecan wood into the cypress I had made the main support out of, and reinforced that area. It was my first time using it, so some modifications at this point I guess could be expected. Other than that though, it seems to be doing great.








Here is a better view of the material clamped in the press. I seen another advantage to the press when I was snapping this photo. In the past, I've had a time trying to keep the mess of the glue squeeze out from these bowl blank glue ups contained. With this press, it all will run down on the wax paper, which simply gets thrown in the garbage when done.
While my mind was on turning bowls, I thought of another little thing I've been meaning to work on for a while now. 
I have several different styles of calipers, but none to accurately measure the thickness of the walls of bowls when turning them. I've been measuring them using the guess method. If you don't know what that is, it means you press the sides between two fingers and guess at the thickness. If any of you have ever turned many bowls using the guess method, then you probably also already know how easy it is to guess your way right through the side or bottom of a bowl. 
Some time ago, Steve Goode, over at Scrollsaw Workshop, posted some patterns for some calipers that would be perfect for bowls. I had saved them to my computer, but had just not taken the time to make them. Today, since I was tackling problems, seemed like a good day to get it done.








These will be much more accurate than guessing. I made them out of quarter inch plywood. It would have been better to rivet them together, but I had them all cut before I realized I was out of rivets that long. So I opted for some screws and lock nuts instead of making a special trip to town. 
.
If any of you do any scroll work, don't hesitate to go over to Steve Goode's site I linked to above. It is a great site for scrollers. I have gotten a lot of great patterns and good advice from his site.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solving Some Problems*
> 
> I've had a few "everything goes wrong" days. I guess everyone has had one of these at some time or another. I'm talking about days where everything you try and do only ends in failure or frustration. Well, when I have days like that, it always seems to end up being several days like that. So, Sunday, I took a much needed day off.
> Now, with saying that, I have to explain what I mean by a "day off" for me. I have a lot of days I don't do much of anything. It's because there are day my health doesn't allow me to do much. When I take a "day off", I mean I took a day that I was actually in good enough shape to do something, and decided to do it away from the shop or home.
> Anyway, with the explanation given, I took a day off and went fishing with one of my sons. We had a great time, and caught a good mess of bream. There is nothing in this world like having a fish dinner you caught yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyway, I wanted to tell you all about that. Sometimes we all need a break. With that break, I cleared my mind. Then when I got back into the shop, I decided to turn a bowl. That's something I hadn't done in a little while. Well while gluing up the material for the bowl, one of the pieces slipped while fumbling with the clamps, and it was more out of balance than I cared to fight with on the lathe. It looked like my bad luck was still with me.
> So today I went into the shop with a mission to fix a couple of problems I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first problem I had was gluing up materials for bowls. I have been fighting with many clamps in the past. Somewhere on YouTube, while watching a bowl turning video, I seen a brilliantly designed bowl press. I wanted to make one. I couldn't see in that video many specifics on building it, but it wasn't complicated. I took some measurements and went at it.
> The hardest thing to figure out was how to take this large clamp I had and remove just the part I needed to use in the press. About the time I was debating on how to do this, my teenage son, James, came towards the back of the shop and said he wished he could help me today. Well, I told him, you came just in time. So I clamped this huge clamp up in the vice, got a hack saw, and showed him what I needed. James is a determined lad. It took him about an hour, but he removed the screw and threaded insert part of the clamp I needed and we were in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said earlier, it isn't a complicated design. I left plenty of room for gluing up bowls as deep as I would ever have a desire to do. If I'm doing a shallow bowl, just add spacer scrap material between the screw device and the top clamping plate, and clamp it all down. The advantage to this is going to be, with a center point of pressure, there is much less chance of material moving around like it does when I'm trying to wrestle with eight or ten clamps at once. Also, doing it this way is going to be much easier on my back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, I have the first bowl clamped up in the press. There's a couple of things I'd like to note here.
> You may notice the wax paper under the bowl. This is so that any glue that squeezes out goes on the wax paper instead of gluing the bowl to the press. Wax paper is cheap and even when the glue does make it sort of stick to something, it peels right off.
> The other thing I wanted to tell you is that after snapping this photo, I noticed some cracking starting on my main support for the screw assembly. I quickly unscrewed it, used some three inch screws going through some pecan wood into the cypress I had made the main support out of, and reinforced that area. It was my first time using it, so some modifications at this point I guess could be expected. Other than that though, it seems to be doing great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the material clamped in the press. I seen another advantage to the press when I was snapping this photo. In the past, I've had a time trying to keep the mess of the glue squeeze out from these bowl blank glue ups contained. With this press, it all will run down on the wax paper, which simply gets thrown in the garbage when done.
> While my mind was on turning bowls, I thought of another little thing I've been meaning to work on for a while now.
> I have several different styles of calipers, but none to accurately measure the thickness of the walls of bowls when turning them. I've been measuring them using the guess method. If you don't know what that is, it means you press the sides between two fingers and guess at the thickness. If any of you have ever turned many bowls using the guess method, then you probably also already know how easy it is to guess your way right through the side or bottom of a bowl.
> Some time ago, Steve Goode, over at Scrollsaw Workshop, posted some patterns for some calipers that would be perfect for bowls. I had saved them to my computer, but had just not taken the time to make them. Today, since I was tackling problems, seemed like a good day to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be much more accurate than guessing. I made them out of quarter inch plywood. It would have been better to rivet them together, but I had them all cut before I realized I was out of rivets that long. So I opted for some screws and lock nuts instead of making a special trip to town.
> .
> If any of you do any scroll work, don't hesitate to go over to Steve Goode's site I linked to above. It is a great site for scrollers. I have gotten a lot of great patterns and good advice from his site.


William,
Sounds like not everything is going wrong….
You were able to spend quality time with your son….
You caught dinner….
You made some shop implements….

Sorry to burst your bubble, but I don't think those scissors are going to cut anything!!!


----------



## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solving Some Problems*
> 
> I've had a few "everything goes wrong" days. I guess everyone has had one of these at some time or another. I'm talking about days where everything you try and do only ends in failure or frustration. Well, when I have days like that, it always seems to end up being several days like that. So, Sunday, I took a much needed day off.
> Now, with saying that, I have to explain what I mean by a "day off" for me. I have a lot of days I don't do much of anything. It's because there are day my health doesn't allow me to do much. When I take a "day off", I mean I took a day that I was actually in good enough shape to do something, and decided to do it away from the shop or home.
> Anyway, with the explanation given, I took a day off and went fishing with one of my sons. We had a great time, and caught a good mess of bream. There is nothing in this world like having a fish dinner you caught yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyway, I wanted to tell you all about that. Sometimes we all need a break. With that break, I cleared my mind. Then when I got back into the shop, I decided to turn a bowl. That's something I hadn't done in a little while. Well while gluing up the material for the bowl, one of the pieces slipped while fumbling with the clamps, and it was more out of balance than I cared to fight with on the lathe. It looked like my bad luck was still with me.
> So today I went into the shop with a mission to fix a couple of problems I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first problem I had was gluing up materials for bowls. I have been fighting with many clamps in the past. Somewhere on YouTube, while watching a bowl turning video, I seen a brilliantly designed bowl press. I wanted to make one. I couldn't see in that video many specifics on building it, but it wasn't complicated. I took some measurements and went at it.
> The hardest thing to figure out was how to take this large clamp I had and remove just the part I needed to use in the press. About the time I was debating on how to do this, my teenage son, James, came towards the back of the shop and said he wished he could help me today. Well, I told him, you came just in time. So I clamped this huge clamp up in the vice, got a hack saw, and showed him what I needed. James is a determined lad. It took him about an hour, but he removed the screw and threaded insert part of the clamp I needed and we were in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said earlier, it isn't a complicated design. I left plenty of room for gluing up bowls as deep as I would ever have a desire to do. If I'm doing a shallow bowl, just add spacer scrap material between the screw device and the top clamping plate, and clamp it all down. The advantage to this is going to be, with a center point of pressure, there is much less chance of material moving around like it does when I'm trying to wrestle with eight or ten clamps at once. Also, doing it this way is going to be much easier on my back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, I have the first bowl clamped up in the press. There's a couple of things I'd like to note here.
> You may notice the wax paper under the bowl. This is so that any glue that squeezes out goes on the wax paper instead of gluing the bowl to the press. Wax paper is cheap and even when the glue does make it sort of stick to something, it peels right off.
> The other thing I wanted to tell you is that after snapping this photo, I noticed some cracking starting on my main support for the screw assembly. I quickly unscrewed it, used some three inch screws going through some pecan wood into the cypress I had made the main support out of, and reinforced that area. It was my first time using it, so some modifications at this point I guess could be expected. Other than that though, it seems to be doing great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the material clamped in the press. I seen another advantage to the press when I was snapping this photo. In the past, I've had a time trying to keep the mess of the glue squeeze out from these bowl blank glue ups contained. With this press, it all will run down on the wax paper, which simply gets thrown in the garbage when done.
> While my mind was on turning bowls, I thought of another little thing I've been meaning to work on for a while now.
> I have several different styles of calipers, but none to accurately measure the thickness of the walls of bowls when turning them. I've been measuring them using the guess method. If you don't know what that is, it means you press the sides between two fingers and guess at the thickness. If any of you have ever turned many bowls using the guess method, then you probably also already know how easy it is to guess your way right through the side or bottom of a bowl.
> Some time ago, Steve Goode, over at Scrollsaw Workshop, posted some patterns for some calipers that would be perfect for bowls. I had saved them to my computer, but had just not taken the time to make them. Today, since I was tackling problems, seemed like a good day to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be much more accurate than guessing. I made them out of quarter inch plywood. It would have been better to rivet them together, but I had them all cut before I realized I was out of rivets that long. So I opted for some screws and lock nuts instead of making a special trip to town.
> .
> If any of you do any scroll work, don't hesitate to go over to Steve Goode's site I linked to above. It is a great site for scrollers. I have gotten a lot of great patterns and good advice from his site.


Holy Clamp batman! Looks like a productive day.


----------



## ssnvet

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solving Some Problems*
> 
> I've had a few "everything goes wrong" days. I guess everyone has had one of these at some time or another. I'm talking about days where everything you try and do only ends in failure or frustration. Well, when I have days like that, it always seems to end up being several days like that. So, Sunday, I took a much needed day off.
> Now, with saying that, I have to explain what I mean by a "day off" for me. I have a lot of days I don't do much of anything. It's because there are day my health doesn't allow me to do much. When I take a "day off", I mean I took a day that I was actually in good enough shape to do something, and decided to do it away from the shop or home.
> Anyway, with the explanation given, I took a day off and went fishing with one of my sons. We had a great time, and caught a good mess of bream. There is nothing in this world like having a fish dinner you caught yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyway, I wanted to tell you all about that. Sometimes we all need a break. With that break, I cleared my mind. Then when I got back into the shop, I decided to turn a bowl. That's something I hadn't done in a little while. Well while gluing up the material for the bowl, one of the pieces slipped while fumbling with the clamps, and it was more out of balance than I cared to fight with on the lathe. It looked like my bad luck was still with me.
> So today I went into the shop with a mission to fix a couple of problems I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first problem I had was gluing up materials for bowls. I have been fighting with many clamps in the past. Somewhere on YouTube, while watching a bowl turning video, I seen a brilliantly designed bowl press. I wanted to make one. I couldn't see in that video many specifics on building it, but it wasn't complicated. I took some measurements and went at it.
> The hardest thing to figure out was how to take this large clamp I had and remove just the part I needed to use in the press. About the time I was debating on how to do this, my teenage son, James, came towards the back of the shop and said he wished he could help me today. Well, I told him, you came just in time. So I clamped this huge clamp up in the vice, got a hack saw, and showed him what I needed. James is a determined lad. It took him about an hour, but he removed the screw and threaded insert part of the clamp I needed and we were in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said earlier, it isn't a complicated design. I left plenty of room for gluing up bowls as deep as I would ever have a desire to do. If I'm doing a shallow bowl, just add spacer scrap material between the screw device and the top clamping plate, and clamp it all down. The advantage to this is going to be, with a center point of pressure, there is much less chance of material moving around like it does when I'm trying to wrestle with eight or ten clamps at once. Also, doing it this way is going to be much easier on my back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, I have the first bowl clamped up in the press. There's a couple of things I'd like to note here.
> You may notice the wax paper under the bowl. This is so that any glue that squeezes out goes on the wax paper instead of gluing the bowl to the press. Wax paper is cheap and even when the glue does make it sort of stick to something, it peels right off.
> The other thing I wanted to tell you is that after snapping this photo, I noticed some cracking starting on my main support for the screw assembly. I quickly unscrewed it, used some three inch screws going through some pecan wood into the cypress I had made the main support out of, and reinforced that area. It was my first time using it, so some modifications at this point I guess could be expected. Other than that though, it seems to be doing great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the material clamped in the press. I seen another advantage to the press when I was snapping this photo. In the past, I've had a time trying to keep the mess of the glue squeeze out from these bowl blank glue ups contained. With this press, it all will run down on the wax paper, which simply gets thrown in the garbage when done.
> While my mind was on turning bowls, I thought of another little thing I've been meaning to work on for a while now.
> I have several different styles of calipers, but none to accurately measure the thickness of the walls of bowls when turning them. I've been measuring them using the guess method. If you don't know what that is, it means you press the sides between two fingers and guess at the thickness. If any of you have ever turned many bowls using the guess method, then you probably also already know how easy it is to guess your way right through the side or bottom of a bowl.
> Some time ago, Steve Goode, over at Scrollsaw Workshop, posted some patterns for some calipers that would be perfect for bowls. I had saved them to my computer, but had just not taken the time to make them. Today, since I was tackling problems, seemed like a good day to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be much more accurate than guessing. I made them out of quarter inch plywood. It would have been better to rivet them together, but I had them all cut before I realized I was out of rivets that long. So I opted for some screws and lock nuts instead of making a special trip to town.
> .
> If any of you do any scroll work, don't hesitate to go over to Steve Goode's site I linked to above. It is a great site for scrollers. I have gotten a lot of great patterns and good advice from his site.


Nice press William

We made one at work that uses an air cylinder an we use it all the time.

I'm sure yours will prove to be very handy.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solving Some Problems*
> 
> I've had a few "everything goes wrong" days. I guess everyone has had one of these at some time or another. I'm talking about days where everything you try and do only ends in failure or frustration. Well, when I have days like that, it always seems to end up being several days like that. So, Sunday, I took a much needed day off.
> Now, with saying that, I have to explain what I mean by a "day off" for me. I have a lot of days I don't do much of anything. It's because there are day my health doesn't allow me to do much. When I take a "day off", I mean I took a day that I was actually in good enough shape to do something, and decided to do it away from the shop or home.
> Anyway, with the explanation given, I took a day off and went fishing with one of my sons. We had a great time, and caught a good mess of bream. There is nothing in this world like having a fish dinner you caught yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyway, I wanted to tell you all about that. Sometimes we all need a break. With that break, I cleared my mind. Then when I got back into the shop, I decided to turn a bowl. That's something I hadn't done in a little while. Well while gluing up the material for the bowl, one of the pieces slipped while fumbling with the clamps, and it was more out of balance than I cared to fight with on the lathe. It looked like my bad luck was still with me.
> So today I went into the shop with a mission to fix a couple of problems I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first problem I had was gluing up materials for bowls. I have been fighting with many clamps in the past. Somewhere on YouTube, while watching a bowl turning video, I seen a brilliantly designed bowl press. I wanted to make one. I couldn't see in that video many specifics on building it, but it wasn't complicated. I took some measurements and went at it.
> The hardest thing to figure out was how to take this large clamp I had and remove just the part I needed to use in the press. About the time I was debating on how to do this, my teenage son, James, came towards the back of the shop and said he wished he could help me today. Well, I told him, you came just in time. So I clamped this huge clamp up in the vice, got a hack saw, and showed him what I needed. James is a determined lad. It took him about an hour, but he removed the screw and threaded insert part of the clamp I needed and we were in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said earlier, it isn't a complicated design. I left plenty of room for gluing up bowls as deep as I would ever have a desire to do. If I'm doing a shallow bowl, just add spacer scrap material between the screw device and the top clamping plate, and clamp it all down. The advantage to this is going to be, with a center point of pressure, there is much less chance of material moving around like it does when I'm trying to wrestle with eight or ten clamps at once. Also, doing it this way is going to be much easier on my back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, I have the first bowl clamped up in the press. There's a couple of things I'd like to note here.
> You may notice the wax paper under the bowl. This is so that any glue that squeezes out goes on the wax paper instead of gluing the bowl to the press. Wax paper is cheap and even when the glue does make it sort of stick to something, it peels right off.
> The other thing I wanted to tell you is that after snapping this photo, I noticed some cracking starting on my main support for the screw assembly. I quickly unscrewed it, used some three inch screws going through some pecan wood into the cypress I had made the main support out of, and reinforced that area. It was my first time using it, so some modifications at this point I guess could be expected. Other than that though, it seems to be doing great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the material clamped in the press. I seen another advantage to the press when I was snapping this photo. In the past, I've had a time trying to keep the mess of the glue squeeze out from these bowl blank glue ups contained. With this press, it all will run down on the wax paper, which simply gets thrown in the garbage when done.
> While my mind was on turning bowls, I thought of another little thing I've been meaning to work on for a while now.
> I have several different styles of calipers, but none to accurately measure the thickness of the walls of bowls when turning them. I've been measuring them using the guess method. If you don't know what that is, it means you press the sides between two fingers and guess at the thickness. If any of you have ever turned many bowls using the guess method, then you probably also already know how easy it is to guess your way right through the side or bottom of a bowl.
> Some time ago, Steve Goode, over at Scrollsaw Workshop, posted some patterns for some calipers that would be perfect for bowls. I had saved them to my computer, but had just not taken the time to make them. Today, since I was tackling problems, seemed like a good day to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be much more accurate than guessing. I made them out of quarter inch plywood. It would have been better to rivet them together, but I had them all cut before I realized I was out of rivets that long. So I opted for some screws and lock nuts instead of making a special trip to town.
> .
> If any of you do any scroll work, don't hesitate to go over to Steve Goode's site I linked to above. It is a great site for scrollers. I have gotten a lot of great patterns and good advice from his site.


If you think those are scissors Randy, step away from your lathe. Ship it to me.

Yes, Sandra, I have a productive day from time to time.

Thanks Matt. I am sure I'll use it a lot. You know it'll have more uses than just for bowls.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solving Some Problems*
> 
> I've had a few "everything goes wrong" days. I guess everyone has had one of these at some time or another. I'm talking about days where everything you try and do only ends in failure or frustration. Well, when I have days like that, it always seems to end up being several days like that. So, Sunday, I took a much needed day off.
> Now, with saying that, I have to explain what I mean by a "day off" for me. I have a lot of days I don't do much of anything. It's because there are day my health doesn't allow me to do much. When I take a "day off", I mean I took a day that I was actually in good enough shape to do something, and decided to do it away from the shop or home.
> Anyway, with the explanation given, I took a day off and went fishing with one of my sons. We had a great time, and caught a good mess of bream. There is nothing in this world like having a fish dinner you caught yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyway, I wanted to tell you all about that. Sometimes we all need a break. With that break, I cleared my mind. Then when I got back into the shop, I decided to turn a bowl. That's something I hadn't done in a little while. Well while gluing up the material for the bowl, one of the pieces slipped while fumbling with the clamps, and it was more out of balance than I cared to fight with on the lathe. It looked like my bad luck was still with me.
> So today I went into the shop with a mission to fix a couple of problems I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first problem I had was gluing up materials for bowls. I have been fighting with many clamps in the past. Somewhere on YouTube, while watching a bowl turning video, I seen a brilliantly designed bowl press. I wanted to make one. I couldn't see in that video many specifics on building it, but it wasn't complicated. I took some measurements and went at it.
> The hardest thing to figure out was how to take this large clamp I had and remove just the part I needed to use in the press. About the time I was debating on how to do this, my teenage son, James, came towards the back of the shop and said he wished he could help me today. Well, I told him, you came just in time. So I clamped this huge clamp up in the vice, got a hack saw, and showed him what I needed. James is a determined lad. It took him about an hour, but he removed the screw and threaded insert part of the clamp I needed and we were in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said earlier, it isn't a complicated design. I left plenty of room for gluing up bowls as deep as I would ever have a desire to do. If I'm doing a shallow bowl, just add spacer scrap material between the screw device and the top clamping plate, and clamp it all down. The advantage to this is going to be, with a center point of pressure, there is much less chance of material moving around like it does when I'm trying to wrestle with eight or ten clamps at once. Also, doing it this way is going to be much easier on my back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, I have the first bowl clamped up in the press. There's a couple of things I'd like to note here.
> You may notice the wax paper under the bowl. This is so that any glue that squeezes out goes on the wax paper instead of gluing the bowl to the press. Wax paper is cheap and even when the glue does make it sort of stick to something, it peels right off.
> The other thing I wanted to tell you is that after snapping this photo, I noticed some cracking starting on my main support for the screw assembly. I quickly unscrewed it, used some three inch screws going through some pecan wood into the cypress I had made the main support out of, and reinforced that area. It was my first time using it, so some modifications at this point I guess could be expected. Other than that though, it seems to be doing great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the material clamped in the press. I seen another advantage to the press when I was snapping this photo. In the past, I've had a time trying to keep the mess of the glue squeeze out from these bowl blank glue ups contained. With this press, it all will run down on the wax paper, which simply gets thrown in the garbage when done.
> While my mind was on turning bowls, I thought of another little thing I've been meaning to work on for a while now.
> I have several different styles of calipers, but none to accurately measure the thickness of the walls of bowls when turning them. I've been measuring them using the guess method. If you don't know what that is, it means you press the sides between two fingers and guess at the thickness. If any of you have ever turned many bowls using the guess method, then you probably also already know how easy it is to guess your way right through the side or bottom of a bowl.
> Some time ago, Steve Goode, over at Scrollsaw Workshop, posted some patterns for some calipers that would be perfect for bowls. I had saved them to my computer, but had just not taken the time to make them. Today, since I was tackling problems, seemed like a good day to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be much more accurate than guessing. I made them out of quarter inch plywood. It would have been better to rivet them together, but I had them all cut before I realized I was out of rivets that long. So I opted for some screws and lock nuts instead of making a special trip to town.
> .
> If any of you do any scroll work, don't hesitate to go over to Steve Goode's site I linked to above. It is a great site for scrollers. I have gotten a lot of great patterns and good advice from his site.


well i know when you are PRESSED to come up with a new tool , you will come through, so im not surprised that you got this made and that it works well, when your under pressure you always do better work, lol…and so we see here, you came through again william, now dont screw around and waste time, get out some new bowl's for us to see, good luck…


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solving Some Problems*
> 
> I've had a few "everything goes wrong" days. I guess everyone has had one of these at some time or another. I'm talking about days where everything you try and do only ends in failure or frustration. Well, when I have days like that, it always seems to end up being several days like that. So, Sunday, I took a much needed day off.
> Now, with saying that, I have to explain what I mean by a "day off" for me. I have a lot of days I don't do much of anything. It's because there are day my health doesn't allow me to do much. When I take a "day off", I mean I took a day that I was actually in good enough shape to do something, and decided to do it away from the shop or home.
> Anyway, with the explanation given, I took a day off and went fishing with one of my sons. We had a great time, and caught a good mess of bream. There is nothing in this world like having a fish dinner you caught yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyway, I wanted to tell you all about that. Sometimes we all need a break. With that break, I cleared my mind. Then when I got back into the shop, I decided to turn a bowl. That's something I hadn't done in a little while. Well while gluing up the material for the bowl, one of the pieces slipped while fumbling with the clamps, and it was more out of balance than I cared to fight with on the lathe. It looked like my bad luck was still with me.
> So today I went into the shop with a mission to fix a couple of problems I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first problem I had was gluing up materials for bowls. I have been fighting with many clamps in the past. Somewhere on YouTube, while watching a bowl turning video, I seen a brilliantly designed bowl press. I wanted to make one. I couldn't see in that video many specifics on building it, but it wasn't complicated. I took some measurements and went at it.
> The hardest thing to figure out was how to take this large clamp I had and remove just the part I needed to use in the press. About the time I was debating on how to do this, my teenage son, James, came towards the back of the shop and said he wished he could help me today. Well, I told him, you came just in time. So I clamped this huge clamp up in the vice, got a hack saw, and showed him what I needed. James is a determined lad. It took him about an hour, but he removed the screw and threaded insert part of the clamp I needed and we were in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said earlier, it isn't a complicated design. I left plenty of room for gluing up bowls as deep as I would ever have a desire to do. If I'm doing a shallow bowl, just add spacer scrap material between the screw device and the top clamping plate, and clamp it all down. The advantage to this is going to be, with a center point of pressure, there is much less chance of material moving around like it does when I'm trying to wrestle with eight or ten clamps at once. Also, doing it this way is going to be much easier on my back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, I have the first bowl clamped up in the press. There's a couple of things I'd like to note here.
> You may notice the wax paper under the bowl. This is so that any glue that squeezes out goes on the wax paper instead of gluing the bowl to the press. Wax paper is cheap and even when the glue does make it sort of stick to something, it peels right off.
> The other thing I wanted to tell you is that after snapping this photo, I noticed some cracking starting on my main support for the screw assembly. I quickly unscrewed it, used some three inch screws going through some pecan wood into the cypress I had made the main support out of, and reinforced that area. It was my first time using it, so some modifications at this point I guess could be expected. Other than that though, it seems to be doing great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the material clamped in the press. I seen another advantage to the press when I was snapping this photo. In the past, I've had a time trying to keep the mess of the glue squeeze out from these bowl blank glue ups contained. With this press, it all will run down on the wax paper, which simply gets thrown in the garbage when done.
> While my mind was on turning bowls, I thought of another little thing I've been meaning to work on for a while now.
> I have several different styles of calipers, but none to accurately measure the thickness of the walls of bowls when turning them. I've been measuring them using the guess method. If you don't know what that is, it means you press the sides between two fingers and guess at the thickness. If any of you have ever turned many bowls using the guess method, then you probably also already know how easy it is to guess your way right through the side or bottom of a bowl.
> Some time ago, Steve Goode, over at Scrollsaw Workshop, posted some patterns for some calipers that would be perfect for bowls. I had saved them to my computer, but had just not taken the time to make them. Today, since I was tackling problems, seemed like a good day to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be much more accurate than guessing. I made them out of quarter inch plywood. It would have been better to rivet them together, but I had them all cut before I realized I was out of rivets that long. So I opted for some screws and lock nuts instead of making a special trip to town.
> .
> If any of you do any scroll work, don't hesitate to go over to Steve Goode's site I linked to above. It is a great site for scrollers. I have gotten a lot of great patterns and good advice from his site.


oh yea, at first your blog was sounding kinda fishy, but as we can all see, your breaming with good success from the day…


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solving Some Problems*
> 
> I've had a few "everything goes wrong" days. I guess everyone has had one of these at some time or another. I'm talking about days where everything you try and do only ends in failure or frustration. Well, when I have days like that, it always seems to end up being several days like that. So, Sunday, I took a much needed day off.
> Now, with saying that, I have to explain what I mean by a "day off" for me. I have a lot of days I don't do much of anything. It's because there are day my health doesn't allow me to do much. When I take a "day off", I mean I took a day that I was actually in good enough shape to do something, and decided to do it away from the shop or home.
> Anyway, with the explanation given, I took a day off and went fishing with one of my sons. We had a great time, and caught a good mess of bream. There is nothing in this world like having a fish dinner you caught yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyway, I wanted to tell you all about that. Sometimes we all need a break. With that break, I cleared my mind. Then when I got back into the shop, I decided to turn a bowl. That's something I hadn't done in a little while. Well while gluing up the material for the bowl, one of the pieces slipped while fumbling with the clamps, and it was more out of balance than I cared to fight with on the lathe. It looked like my bad luck was still with me.
> So today I went into the shop with a mission to fix a couple of problems I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first problem I had was gluing up materials for bowls. I have been fighting with many clamps in the past. Somewhere on YouTube, while watching a bowl turning video, I seen a brilliantly designed bowl press. I wanted to make one. I couldn't see in that video many specifics on building it, but it wasn't complicated. I took some measurements and went at it.
> The hardest thing to figure out was how to take this large clamp I had and remove just the part I needed to use in the press. About the time I was debating on how to do this, my teenage son, James, came towards the back of the shop and said he wished he could help me today. Well, I told him, you came just in time. So I clamped this huge clamp up in the vice, got a hack saw, and showed him what I needed. James is a determined lad. It took him about an hour, but he removed the screw and threaded insert part of the clamp I needed and we were in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said earlier, it isn't a complicated design. I left plenty of room for gluing up bowls as deep as I would ever have a desire to do. If I'm doing a shallow bowl, just add spacer scrap material between the screw device and the top clamping plate, and clamp it all down. The advantage to this is going to be, with a center point of pressure, there is much less chance of material moving around like it does when I'm trying to wrestle with eight or ten clamps at once. Also, doing it this way is going to be much easier on my back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, I have the first bowl clamped up in the press. There's a couple of things I'd like to note here.
> You may notice the wax paper under the bowl. This is so that any glue that squeezes out goes on the wax paper instead of gluing the bowl to the press. Wax paper is cheap and even when the glue does make it sort of stick to something, it peels right off.
> The other thing I wanted to tell you is that after snapping this photo, I noticed some cracking starting on my main support for the screw assembly. I quickly unscrewed it, used some three inch screws going through some pecan wood into the cypress I had made the main support out of, and reinforced that area. It was my first time using it, so some modifications at this point I guess could be expected. Other than that though, it seems to be doing great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the material clamped in the press. I seen another advantage to the press when I was snapping this photo. In the past, I've had a time trying to keep the mess of the glue squeeze out from these bowl blank glue ups contained. With this press, it all will run down on the wax paper, which simply gets thrown in the garbage when done.
> While my mind was on turning bowls, I thought of another little thing I've been meaning to work on for a while now.
> I have several different styles of calipers, but none to accurately measure the thickness of the walls of bowls when turning them. I've been measuring them using the guess method. If you don't know what that is, it means you press the sides between two fingers and guess at the thickness. If any of you have ever turned many bowls using the guess method, then you probably also already know how easy it is to guess your way right through the side or bottom of a bowl.
> Some time ago, Steve Goode, over at Scrollsaw Workshop, posted some patterns for some calipers that would be perfect for bowls. I had saved them to my computer, but had just not taken the time to make them. Today, since I was tackling problems, seemed like a good day to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be much more accurate than guessing. I made them out of quarter inch plywood. It would have been better to rivet them together, but I had them all cut before I realized I was out of rivets that long. So I opted for some screws and lock nuts instead of making a special trip to town.
> .
> If any of you do any scroll work, don't hesitate to go over to Steve Goode's site I linked to above. It is a great site for scrollers. I have gotten a lot of great patterns and good advice from his site.


William i wouuld have to second Grizzman , and thats a nice batch of brime too it just aint a better tasting fish they bream


----------



## NateMeadows

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solving Some Problems*
> 
> I've had a few "everything goes wrong" days. I guess everyone has had one of these at some time or another. I'm talking about days where everything you try and do only ends in failure or frustration. Well, when I have days like that, it always seems to end up being several days like that. So, Sunday, I took a much needed day off.
> Now, with saying that, I have to explain what I mean by a "day off" for me. I have a lot of days I don't do much of anything. It's because there are day my health doesn't allow me to do much. When I take a "day off", I mean I took a day that I was actually in good enough shape to do something, and decided to do it away from the shop or home.
> Anyway, with the explanation given, I took a day off and went fishing with one of my sons. We had a great time, and caught a good mess of bream. There is nothing in this world like having a fish dinner you caught yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyway, I wanted to tell you all about that. Sometimes we all need a break. With that break, I cleared my mind. Then when I got back into the shop, I decided to turn a bowl. That's something I hadn't done in a little while. Well while gluing up the material for the bowl, one of the pieces slipped while fumbling with the clamps, and it was more out of balance than I cared to fight with on the lathe. It looked like my bad luck was still with me.
> So today I went into the shop with a mission to fix a couple of problems I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first problem I had was gluing up materials for bowls. I have been fighting with many clamps in the past. Somewhere on YouTube, while watching a bowl turning video, I seen a brilliantly designed bowl press. I wanted to make one. I couldn't see in that video many specifics on building it, but it wasn't complicated. I took some measurements and went at it.
> The hardest thing to figure out was how to take this large clamp I had and remove just the part I needed to use in the press. About the time I was debating on how to do this, my teenage son, James, came towards the back of the shop and said he wished he could help me today. Well, I told him, you came just in time. So I clamped this huge clamp up in the vice, got a hack saw, and showed him what I needed. James is a determined lad. It took him about an hour, but he removed the screw and threaded insert part of the clamp I needed and we were in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said earlier, it isn't a complicated design. I left plenty of room for gluing up bowls as deep as I would ever have a desire to do. If I'm doing a shallow bowl, just add spacer scrap material between the screw device and the top clamping plate, and clamp it all down. The advantage to this is going to be, with a center point of pressure, there is much less chance of material moving around like it does when I'm trying to wrestle with eight or ten clamps at once. Also, doing it this way is going to be much easier on my back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, I have the first bowl clamped up in the press. There's a couple of things I'd like to note here.
> You may notice the wax paper under the bowl. This is so that any glue that squeezes out goes on the wax paper instead of gluing the bowl to the press. Wax paper is cheap and even when the glue does make it sort of stick to something, it peels right off.
> The other thing I wanted to tell you is that after snapping this photo, I noticed some cracking starting on my main support for the screw assembly. I quickly unscrewed it, used some three inch screws going through some pecan wood into the cypress I had made the main support out of, and reinforced that area. It was my first time using it, so some modifications at this point I guess could be expected. Other than that though, it seems to be doing great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the material clamped in the press. I seen another advantage to the press when I was snapping this photo. In the past, I've had a time trying to keep the mess of the glue squeeze out from these bowl blank glue ups contained. With this press, it all will run down on the wax paper, which simply gets thrown in the garbage when done.
> While my mind was on turning bowls, I thought of another little thing I've been meaning to work on for a while now.
> I have several different styles of calipers, but none to accurately measure the thickness of the walls of bowls when turning them. I've been measuring them using the guess method. If you don't know what that is, it means you press the sides between two fingers and guess at the thickness. If any of you have ever turned many bowls using the guess method, then you probably also already know how easy it is to guess your way right through the side or bottom of a bowl.
> Some time ago, Steve Goode, over at Scrollsaw Workshop, posted some patterns for some calipers that would be perfect for bowls. I had saved them to my computer, but had just not taken the time to make them. Today, since I was tackling problems, seemed like a good day to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be much more accurate than guessing. I made them out of quarter inch plywood. It would have been better to rivet them together, but I had them all cut before I realized I was out of rivets that long. So I opted for some screws and lock nuts instead of making a special trip to town.
> .
> If any of you do any scroll work, don't hesitate to go over to Steve Goode's site I linked to above. It is a great site for scrollers. I have gotten a lot of great patterns and good advice from his site.


I like your bowl press, that is a great idea! Glad you got a day off too!

Nate


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solving Some Problems*
> 
> I've had a few "everything goes wrong" days. I guess everyone has had one of these at some time or another. I'm talking about days where everything you try and do only ends in failure or frustration. Well, when I have days like that, it always seems to end up being several days like that. So, Sunday, I took a much needed day off.
> Now, with saying that, I have to explain what I mean by a "day off" for me. I have a lot of days I don't do much of anything. It's because there are day my health doesn't allow me to do much. When I take a "day off", I mean I took a day that I was actually in good enough shape to do something, and decided to do it away from the shop or home.
> Anyway, with the explanation given, I took a day off and went fishing with one of my sons. We had a great time, and caught a good mess of bream. There is nothing in this world like having a fish dinner you caught yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyway, I wanted to tell you all about that. Sometimes we all need a break. With that break, I cleared my mind. Then when I got back into the shop, I decided to turn a bowl. That's something I hadn't done in a little while. Well while gluing up the material for the bowl, one of the pieces slipped while fumbling with the clamps, and it was more out of balance than I cared to fight with on the lathe. It looked like my bad luck was still with me.
> So today I went into the shop with a mission to fix a couple of problems I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first problem I had was gluing up materials for bowls. I have been fighting with many clamps in the past. Somewhere on YouTube, while watching a bowl turning video, I seen a brilliantly designed bowl press. I wanted to make one. I couldn't see in that video many specifics on building it, but it wasn't complicated. I took some measurements and went at it.
> The hardest thing to figure out was how to take this large clamp I had and remove just the part I needed to use in the press. About the time I was debating on how to do this, my teenage son, James, came towards the back of the shop and said he wished he could help me today. Well, I told him, you came just in time. So I clamped this huge clamp up in the vice, got a hack saw, and showed him what I needed. James is a determined lad. It took him about an hour, but he removed the screw and threaded insert part of the clamp I needed and we were in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said earlier, it isn't a complicated design. I left plenty of room for gluing up bowls as deep as I would ever have a desire to do. If I'm doing a shallow bowl, just add spacer scrap material between the screw device and the top clamping plate, and clamp it all down. The advantage to this is going to be, with a center point of pressure, there is much less chance of material moving around like it does when I'm trying to wrestle with eight or ten clamps at once. Also, doing it this way is going to be much easier on my back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, I have the first bowl clamped up in the press. There's a couple of things I'd like to note here.
> You may notice the wax paper under the bowl. This is so that any glue that squeezes out goes on the wax paper instead of gluing the bowl to the press. Wax paper is cheap and even when the glue does make it sort of stick to something, it peels right off.
> The other thing I wanted to tell you is that after snapping this photo, I noticed some cracking starting on my main support for the screw assembly. I quickly unscrewed it, used some three inch screws going through some pecan wood into the cypress I had made the main support out of, and reinforced that area. It was my first time using it, so some modifications at this point I guess could be expected. Other than that though, it seems to be doing great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the material clamped in the press. I seen another advantage to the press when I was snapping this photo. In the past, I've had a time trying to keep the mess of the glue squeeze out from these bowl blank glue ups contained. With this press, it all will run down on the wax paper, which simply gets thrown in the garbage when done.
> While my mind was on turning bowls, I thought of another little thing I've been meaning to work on for a while now.
> I have several different styles of calipers, but none to accurately measure the thickness of the walls of bowls when turning them. I've been measuring them using the guess method. If you don't know what that is, it means you press the sides between two fingers and guess at the thickness. If any of you have ever turned many bowls using the guess method, then you probably also already know how easy it is to guess your way right through the side or bottom of a bowl.
> Some time ago, Steve Goode, over at Scrollsaw Workshop, posted some patterns for some calipers that would be perfect for bowls. I had saved them to my computer, but had just not taken the time to make them. Today, since I was tackling problems, seemed like a good day to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be much more accurate than guessing. I made them out of quarter inch plywood. It would have been better to rivet them together, but I had them all cut before I realized I was out of rivets that long. So I opted for some screws and lock nuts instead of making a special trip to town.
> .
> If any of you do any scroll work, don't hesitate to go over to Steve Goode's site I linked to above. It is a great site for scrollers. I have gotten a lot of great patterns and good advice from his site.


Tool time at Williams. Looks like you have developed a few solutions.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solving Some Problems*
> 
> I've had a few "everything goes wrong" days. I guess everyone has had one of these at some time or another. I'm talking about days where everything you try and do only ends in failure or frustration. Well, when I have days like that, it always seems to end up being several days like that. So, Sunday, I took a much needed day off.
> Now, with saying that, I have to explain what I mean by a "day off" for me. I have a lot of days I don't do much of anything. It's because there are day my health doesn't allow me to do much. When I take a "day off", I mean I took a day that I was actually in good enough shape to do something, and decided to do it away from the shop or home.
> Anyway, with the explanation given, I took a day off and went fishing with one of my sons. We had a great time, and caught a good mess of bream. There is nothing in this world like having a fish dinner you caught yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyway, I wanted to tell you all about that. Sometimes we all need a break. With that break, I cleared my mind. Then when I got back into the shop, I decided to turn a bowl. That's something I hadn't done in a little while. Well while gluing up the material for the bowl, one of the pieces slipped while fumbling with the clamps, and it was more out of balance than I cared to fight with on the lathe. It looked like my bad luck was still with me.
> So today I went into the shop with a mission to fix a couple of problems I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first problem I had was gluing up materials for bowls. I have been fighting with many clamps in the past. Somewhere on YouTube, while watching a bowl turning video, I seen a brilliantly designed bowl press. I wanted to make one. I couldn't see in that video many specifics on building it, but it wasn't complicated. I took some measurements and went at it.
> The hardest thing to figure out was how to take this large clamp I had and remove just the part I needed to use in the press. About the time I was debating on how to do this, my teenage son, James, came towards the back of the shop and said he wished he could help me today. Well, I told him, you came just in time. So I clamped this huge clamp up in the vice, got a hack saw, and showed him what I needed. James is a determined lad. It took him about an hour, but he removed the screw and threaded insert part of the clamp I needed and we were in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said earlier, it isn't a complicated design. I left plenty of room for gluing up bowls as deep as I would ever have a desire to do. If I'm doing a shallow bowl, just add spacer scrap material between the screw device and the top clamping plate, and clamp it all down. The advantage to this is going to be, with a center point of pressure, there is much less chance of material moving around like it does when I'm trying to wrestle with eight or ten clamps at once. Also, doing it this way is going to be much easier on my back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, I have the first bowl clamped up in the press. There's a couple of things I'd like to note here.
> You may notice the wax paper under the bowl. This is so that any glue that squeezes out goes on the wax paper instead of gluing the bowl to the press. Wax paper is cheap and even when the glue does make it sort of stick to something, it peels right off.
> The other thing I wanted to tell you is that after snapping this photo, I noticed some cracking starting on my main support for the screw assembly. I quickly unscrewed it, used some three inch screws going through some pecan wood into the cypress I had made the main support out of, and reinforced that area. It was my first time using it, so some modifications at this point I guess could be expected. Other than that though, it seems to be doing great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the material clamped in the press. I seen another advantage to the press when I was snapping this photo. In the past, I've had a time trying to keep the mess of the glue squeeze out from these bowl blank glue ups contained. With this press, it all will run down on the wax paper, which simply gets thrown in the garbage when done.
> While my mind was on turning bowls, I thought of another little thing I've been meaning to work on for a while now.
> I have several different styles of calipers, but none to accurately measure the thickness of the walls of bowls when turning them. I've been measuring them using the guess method. If you don't know what that is, it means you press the sides between two fingers and guess at the thickness. If any of you have ever turned many bowls using the guess method, then you probably also already know how easy it is to guess your way right through the side or bottom of a bowl.
> Some time ago, Steve Goode, over at Scrollsaw Workshop, posted some patterns for some calipers that would be perfect for bowls. I had saved them to my computer, but had just not taken the time to make them. Today, since I was tackling problems, seemed like a good day to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be much more accurate than guessing. I made them out of quarter inch plywood. It would have been better to rivet them together, but I had them all cut before I realized I was out of rivets that long. So I opted for some screws and lock nuts instead of making a special trip to town.
> .
> If any of you do any scroll work, don't hesitate to go over to Steve Goode's site I linked to above. It is a great site for scrollers. I have gotten a lot of great patterns and good advice from his site.


Thanks guys. 
I unclamped the bowl today that I pressed with the bowl press.
The press works great, but the bowl did not turn out to be usable, for a different reason.
You'll have to read my next blog entry to find out about that.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solving Some Problems*
> 
> I've had a few "everything goes wrong" days. I guess everyone has had one of these at some time or another. I'm talking about days where everything you try and do only ends in failure or frustration. Well, when I have days like that, it always seems to end up being several days like that. So, Sunday, I took a much needed day off.
> Now, with saying that, I have to explain what I mean by a "day off" for me. I have a lot of days I don't do much of anything. It's because there are day my health doesn't allow me to do much. When I take a "day off", I mean I took a day that I was actually in good enough shape to do something, and decided to do it away from the shop or home.
> Anyway, with the explanation given, I took a day off and went fishing with one of my sons. We had a great time, and caught a good mess of bream. There is nothing in this world like having a fish dinner you caught yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyway, I wanted to tell you all about that. Sometimes we all need a break. With that break, I cleared my mind. Then when I got back into the shop, I decided to turn a bowl. That's something I hadn't done in a little while. Well while gluing up the material for the bowl, one of the pieces slipped while fumbling with the clamps, and it was more out of balance than I cared to fight with on the lathe. It looked like my bad luck was still with me.
> So today I went into the shop with a mission to fix a couple of problems I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first problem I had was gluing up materials for bowls. I have been fighting with many clamps in the past. Somewhere on YouTube, while watching a bowl turning video, I seen a brilliantly designed bowl press. I wanted to make one. I couldn't see in that video many specifics on building it, but it wasn't complicated. I took some measurements and went at it.
> The hardest thing to figure out was how to take this large clamp I had and remove just the part I needed to use in the press. About the time I was debating on how to do this, my teenage son, James, came towards the back of the shop and said he wished he could help me today. Well, I told him, you came just in time. So I clamped this huge clamp up in the vice, got a hack saw, and showed him what I needed. James is a determined lad. It took him about an hour, but he removed the screw and threaded insert part of the clamp I needed and we were in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said earlier, it isn't a complicated design. I left plenty of room for gluing up bowls as deep as I would ever have a desire to do. If I'm doing a shallow bowl, just add spacer scrap material between the screw device and the top clamping plate, and clamp it all down. The advantage to this is going to be, with a center point of pressure, there is much less chance of material moving around like it does when I'm trying to wrestle with eight or ten clamps at once. Also, doing it this way is going to be much easier on my back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, I have the first bowl clamped up in the press. There's a couple of things I'd like to note here.
> You may notice the wax paper under the bowl. This is so that any glue that squeezes out goes on the wax paper instead of gluing the bowl to the press. Wax paper is cheap and even when the glue does make it sort of stick to something, it peels right off.
> The other thing I wanted to tell you is that after snapping this photo, I noticed some cracking starting on my main support for the screw assembly. I quickly unscrewed it, used some three inch screws going through some pecan wood into the cypress I had made the main support out of, and reinforced that area. It was my first time using it, so some modifications at this point I guess could be expected. Other than that though, it seems to be doing great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the material clamped in the press. I seen another advantage to the press when I was snapping this photo. In the past, I've had a time trying to keep the mess of the glue squeeze out from these bowl blank glue ups contained. With this press, it all will run down on the wax paper, which simply gets thrown in the garbage when done.
> While my mind was on turning bowls, I thought of another little thing I've been meaning to work on for a while now.
> I have several different styles of calipers, but none to accurately measure the thickness of the walls of bowls when turning them. I've been measuring them using the guess method. If you don't know what that is, it means you press the sides between two fingers and guess at the thickness. If any of you have ever turned many bowls using the guess method, then you probably also already know how easy it is to guess your way right through the side or bottom of a bowl.
> Some time ago, Steve Goode, over at Scrollsaw Workshop, posted some patterns for some calipers that would be perfect for bowls. I had saved them to my computer, but had just not taken the time to make them. Today, since I was tackling problems, seemed like a good day to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be much more accurate than guessing. I made them out of quarter inch plywood. It would have been better to rivet them together, but I had them all cut before I realized I was out of rivets that long. So I opted for some screws and lock nuts instead of making a special trip to town.
> .
> If any of you do any scroll work, don't hesitate to go over to Steve Goode's site I linked to above. It is a great site for scrollers. I have gotten a lot of great patterns and good advice from his site.


Dang it!!!


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solving Some Problems*
> 
> I've had a few "everything goes wrong" days. I guess everyone has had one of these at some time or another. I'm talking about days where everything you try and do only ends in failure or frustration. Well, when I have days like that, it always seems to end up being several days like that. So, Sunday, I took a much needed day off.
> Now, with saying that, I have to explain what I mean by a "day off" for me. I have a lot of days I don't do much of anything. It's because there are day my health doesn't allow me to do much. When I take a "day off", I mean I took a day that I was actually in good enough shape to do something, and decided to do it away from the shop or home.
> Anyway, with the explanation given, I took a day off and went fishing with one of my sons. We had a great time, and caught a good mess of bream. There is nothing in this world like having a fish dinner you caught yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyway, I wanted to tell you all about that. Sometimes we all need a break. With that break, I cleared my mind. Then when I got back into the shop, I decided to turn a bowl. That's something I hadn't done in a little while. Well while gluing up the material for the bowl, one of the pieces slipped while fumbling with the clamps, and it was more out of balance than I cared to fight with on the lathe. It looked like my bad luck was still with me.
> So today I went into the shop with a mission to fix a couple of problems I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first problem I had was gluing up materials for bowls. I have been fighting with many clamps in the past. Somewhere on YouTube, while watching a bowl turning video, I seen a brilliantly designed bowl press. I wanted to make one. I couldn't see in that video many specifics on building it, but it wasn't complicated. I took some measurements and went at it.
> The hardest thing to figure out was how to take this large clamp I had and remove just the part I needed to use in the press. About the time I was debating on how to do this, my teenage son, James, came towards the back of the shop and said he wished he could help me today. Well, I told him, you came just in time. So I clamped this huge clamp up in the vice, got a hack saw, and showed him what I needed. James is a determined lad. It took him about an hour, but he removed the screw and threaded insert part of the clamp I needed and we were in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said earlier, it isn't a complicated design. I left plenty of room for gluing up bowls as deep as I would ever have a desire to do. If I'm doing a shallow bowl, just add spacer scrap material between the screw device and the top clamping plate, and clamp it all down. The advantage to this is going to be, with a center point of pressure, there is much less chance of material moving around like it does when I'm trying to wrestle with eight or ten clamps at once. Also, doing it this way is going to be much easier on my back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, I have the first bowl clamped up in the press. There's a couple of things I'd like to note here.
> You may notice the wax paper under the bowl. This is so that any glue that squeezes out goes on the wax paper instead of gluing the bowl to the press. Wax paper is cheap and even when the glue does make it sort of stick to something, it peels right off.
> The other thing I wanted to tell you is that after snapping this photo, I noticed some cracking starting on my main support for the screw assembly. I quickly unscrewed it, used some three inch screws going through some pecan wood into the cypress I had made the main support out of, and reinforced that area. It was my first time using it, so some modifications at this point I guess could be expected. Other than that though, it seems to be doing great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the material clamped in the press. I seen another advantage to the press when I was snapping this photo. In the past, I've had a time trying to keep the mess of the glue squeeze out from these bowl blank glue ups contained. With this press, it all will run down on the wax paper, which simply gets thrown in the garbage when done.
> While my mind was on turning bowls, I thought of another little thing I've been meaning to work on for a while now.
> I have several different styles of calipers, but none to accurately measure the thickness of the walls of bowls when turning them. I've been measuring them using the guess method. If you don't know what that is, it means you press the sides between two fingers and guess at the thickness. If any of you have ever turned many bowls using the guess method, then you probably also already know how easy it is to guess your way right through the side or bottom of a bowl.
> Some time ago, Steve Goode, over at Scrollsaw Workshop, posted some patterns for some calipers that would be perfect for bowls. I had saved them to my computer, but had just not taken the time to make them. Today, since I was tackling problems, seemed like a good day to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be much more accurate than guessing. I made them out of quarter inch plywood. It would have been better to rivet them together, but I had them all cut before I realized I was out of rivets that long. So I opted for some screws and lock nuts instead of making a special trip to town.
> .
> If any of you do any scroll work, don't hesitate to go over to Steve Goode's site I linked to above. It is a great site for scrollers. I have gotten a lot of great patterns and good advice from his site.


William,
Thanks for this post! I have been contemplating making a segmented bowl and trying to figure out where to get the threaded screw for the press.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Solving Some Problems*
> 
> I've had a few "everything goes wrong" days. I guess everyone has had one of these at some time or another. I'm talking about days where everything you try and do only ends in failure or frustration. Well, when I have days like that, it always seems to end up being several days like that. So, Sunday, I took a much needed day off.
> Now, with saying that, I have to explain what I mean by a "day off" for me. I have a lot of days I don't do much of anything. It's because there are day my health doesn't allow me to do much. When I take a "day off", I mean I took a day that I was actually in good enough shape to do something, and decided to do it away from the shop or home.
> Anyway, with the explanation given, I took a day off and went fishing with one of my sons. We had a great time, and caught a good mess of bream. There is nothing in this world like having a fish dinner you caught yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyway, I wanted to tell you all about that. Sometimes we all need a break. With that break, I cleared my mind. Then when I got back into the shop, I decided to turn a bowl. That's something I hadn't done in a little while. Well while gluing up the material for the bowl, one of the pieces slipped while fumbling with the clamps, and it was more out of balance than I cared to fight with on the lathe. It looked like my bad luck was still with me.
> So today I went into the shop with a mission to fix a couple of problems I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first problem I had was gluing up materials for bowls. I have been fighting with many clamps in the past. Somewhere on YouTube, while watching a bowl turning video, I seen a brilliantly designed bowl press. I wanted to make one. I couldn't see in that video many specifics on building it, but it wasn't complicated. I took some measurements and went at it.
> The hardest thing to figure out was how to take this large clamp I had and remove just the part I needed to use in the press. About the time I was debating on how to do this, my teenage son, James, came towards the back of the shop and said he wished he could help me today. Well, I told him, you came just in time. So I clamped this huge clamp up in the vice, got a hack saw, and showed him what I needed. James is a determined lad. It took him about an hour, but he removed the screw and threaded insert part of the clamp I needed and we were in business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said earlier, it isn't a complicated design. I left plenty of room for gluing up bowls as deep as I would ever have a desire to do. If I'm doing a shallow bowl, just add spacer scrap material between the screw device and the top clamping plate, and clamp it all down. The advantage to this is going to be, with a center point of pressure, there is much less chance of material moving around like it does when I'm trying to wrestle with eight or ten clamps at once. Also, doing it this way is going to be much easier on my back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, I have the first bowl clamped up in the press. There's a couple of things I'd like to note here.
> You may notice the wax paper under the bowl. This is so that any glue that squeezes out goes on the wax paper instead of gluing the bowl to the press. Wax paper is cheap and even when the glue does make it sort of stick to something, it peels right off.
> The other thing I wanted to tell you is that after snapping this photo, I noticed some cracking starting on my main support for the screw assembly. I quickly unscrewed it, used some three inch screws going through some pecan wood into the cypress I had made the main support out of, and reinforced that area. It was my first time using it, so some modifications at this point I guess could be expected. Other than that though, it seems to be doing great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better view of the material clamped in the press. I seen another advantage to the press when I was snapping this photo. In the past, I've had a time trying to keep the mess of the glue squeeze out from these bowl blank glue ups contained. With this press, it all will run down on the wax paper, which simply gets thrown in the garbage when done.
> While my mind was on turning bowls, I thought of another little thing I've been meaning to work on for a while now.
> I have several different styles of calipers, but none to accurately measure the thickness of the walls of bowls when turning them. I've been measuring them using the guess method. If you don't know what that is, it means you press the sides between two fingers and guess at the thickness. If any of you have ever turned many bowls using the guess method, then you probably also already know how easy it is to guess your way right through the side or bottom of a bowl.
> Some time ago, Steve Goode, over at Scrollsaw Workshop, posted some patterns for some calipers that would be perfect for bowls. I had saved them to my computer, but had just not taken the time to make them. Today, since I was tackling problems, seemed like a good day to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be much more accurate than guessing. I made them out of quarter inch plywood. It would have been better to rivet them together, but I had them all cut before I realized I was out of rivets that long. So I opted for some screws and lock nuts instead of making a special trip to town.
> .
> If any of you do any scroll work, don't hesitate to go over to Steve Goode's site I linked to above. It is a great site for scrollers. I have gotten a lot of great patterns and good advice from his site.


Cut up a C-Clamp and it works great. If all you have is a short one, you will just have to be more creative with spacers when gluing up different height bowls. 
I used a huge clamp that was in a box deal I had bought at a yard sale a couple of years ago. I really had no use for that large a clamp until now.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*How NOT To Turn A Bowl*









In the last entry, I had left the first bowl to ever be pressed in the bowl pressed drying for today. Well I unclamped it today and am glad to report that the press applied plenty enough pressure and I am very happy with it.








So I went to chucking it up on the lathe and went at it. I love turning bowls. You may notice it is a little shorter than what was shown clamped up in the press yesterday. I turned about an inch off the top when I messed up. That's one of the luxuries of turning bowls. If you make too big a mistake, you don't ruin the top part of the bowl. You just wind up with a shorter bowl.
I was happy with the way things were going. With the new bowl thickness calipers, I was able to get a more accurate measurement of the side walls and was much more comfortable about going thinner than I have in the past. Maybe I was a little too comfortable. If you read the title of this entry, you already know that a huge mistake is about to be told.








As I was getting near the bottom, I slipped with the gouge and made a nasty tear out section in the bottom of the bowl. So with some careful measuring, I figure I could go at least another sixteenth to an eighth inch deeper with no problems. I started doing that and quickly realized maybe that a sixteenth of an inch was about a sixteenth of an inch too much. 
You see, when I thought back to see where I made the mistake at, I realized something. I did have enough material to go deeper about an inch and a half from the side where I measured at. However, since I, for some odd reason, like to cut a concave profile on the bottom of my bowls so they are sure to sit flat on a table, that meant I had less material than that closer to the center. Apparently, I had less than a sixteenth of an inch.
This is what happens when you turn clean through the bottom of a bowl. This is how NOT to turn a bowl. It doesn't hold things too well with a large hole in the bottom.

.

I also ran into another problem today. Well actually it is an ongoing problem that I am constantly learning to deal with. My lathe is actually underpowered for turning a bowl this large. It doesn't matter how light I make my passes, the lathe is under a stain turning this kind of mass. I feel there has to be a way around this problem, since there is no way I'll be able to afford a more substantial lathe anytime in the foreseeable future. So I am, as I'm able, working on a few ideas on that front. I am determined to be able to turn bowls.
I changed the grind on my gouge today to a steeper angle. That seemed to help a tiny bit, but I also plan on trying a ring, or hook cutter, sometimes in the future. 
I'm also playing with speed on my lathe. It turned smoother at high speeds, but also seems to bog down easier. So I'm thinking of turning slower until the final passes to clean up rough areas. 
I'm also thinking of ways to take some of the work load off of the lathe. If I remove the middle of the rings I glue up for blanks, that would eliminate the need for the lathe to have to turn that much weight in the beginning while I'm roughing everything out. This still would not help me if I'm turning a bowl from a fallen tree though. So that one is still a concept in the works. 
I've done some research. The best answer would be to get a larger lathe with more horsepower that can handle that kind of mass. The thing is, when I look at the prices of such lathes, all I can think of is the fact that my kids need something called food more than I need a bigger lathe. So I don't see that happening. 
So where does all this lead? Well, in the past, I've built my own tools when I couldn't afford large enough to do what I needed to do. It'll take some time. I've been looking for parts. The largest obstacle will be finding a large enough motor. I do see sometime in the future though that I want to build a heavier duty lathe than my wallet would ever allow me to purchase from a name brand supplier. 
One day.


----------



## NateMeadows

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How NOT To Turn A Bowl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last entry, I had left the first bowl to ever be pressed in the bowl pressed drying for today. Well I unclamped it today and am glad to report that the press applied plenty enough pressure and I am very happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to chucking it up on the lathe and went at it. I love turning bowls. You may notice it is a little shorter than what was shown clamped up in the press yesterday. I turned about an inch off the top when I messed up. That's one of the luxuries of turning bowls. If you make too big a mistake, you don't ruin the top part of the bowl. You just wind up with a shorter bowl.
> I was happy with the way things were going. With the new bowl thickness calipers, I was able to get a more accurate measurement of the side walls and was much more comfortable about going thinner than I have in the past. Maybe I was a little too comfortable. If you read the title of this entry, you already know that a huge mistake is about to be told.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was getting near the bottom, I slipped with the gouge and made a nasty tear out section in the bottom of the bowl. So with some careful measuring, I figure I could go at least another sixteenth to an eighth inch deeper with no problems. I started doing that and quickly realized maybe that a sixteenth of an inch was about a sixteenth of an inch too much.
> You see, when I thought back to see where I made the mistake at, I realized something. I did have enough material to go deeper about an inch and a half from the side where I measured at. However, since I, for some odd reason, like to cut a concave profile on the bottom of my bowls so they are sure to sit flat on a table, that meant I had less material than that closer to the center. Apparently, I had less than a sixteenth of an inch.
> This is what happens when you turn clean through the bottom of a bowl. This is how NOT to turn a bowl. It doesn't hold things too well with a large hole in the bottom.
> 
> .
> 
> I also ran into another problem today. Well actually it is an ongoing problem that I am constantly learning to deal with. My lathe is actually underpowered for turning a bowl this large. It doesn't matter how light I make my passes, the lathe is under a stain turning this kind of mass. I feel there has to be a way around this problem, since there is no way I'll be able to afford a more substantial lathe anytime in the foreseeable future. So I am, as I'm able, working on a few ideas on that front. I am determined to be able to turn bowls.
> I changed the grind on my gouge today to a steeper angle. That seemed to help a tiny bit, but I also plan on trying a ring, or hook cutter, sometimes in the future.
> I'm also playing with speed on my lathe. It turned smoother at high speeds, but also seems to bog down easier. So I'm thinking of turning slower until the final passes to clean up rough areas.
> I'm also thinking of ways to take some of the work load off of the lathe. If I remove the middle of the rings I glue up for blanks, that would eliminate the need for the lathe to have to turn that much weight in the beginning while I'm roughing everything out. This still would not help me if I'm turning a bowl from a fallen tree though. So that one is still a concept in the works.
> I've done some research. The best answer would be to get a larger lathe with more horsepower that can handle that kind of mass. The thing is, when I look at the prices of such lathes, all I can think of is the fact that my kids need something called food more than I need a bigger lathe. So I don't see that happening.
> So where does all this lead? Well, in the past, I've built my own tools when I couldn't afford large enough to do what I needed to do. It'll take some time. I've been looking for parts. The largest obstacle will be finding a large enough motor. I do see sometime in the future though that I want to build a heavier duty lathe than my wallet would ever allow me to purchase from a name brand supplier.
> One day.


I really do like your bowl glueing jig! That is a bummer about the bottom of your bowl. But, at least you can save it. Cut a bit of and glue a new section on, then take it back to the lathe. I am also sorry to hear about your new lathe bogging down. That is frustrating. Seems like you cannot catch a break, between bent spindles and weak motors. But at least you are not letting it get you down! That is inspiring and awesome! Keep it up!!!!

Nate


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How NOT To Turn A Bowl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last entry, I had left the first bowl to ever be pressed in the bowl pressed drying for today. Well I unclamped it today and am glad to report that the press applied plenty enough pressure and I am very happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to chucking it up on the lathe and went at it. I love turning bowls. You may notice it is a little shorter than what was shown clamped up in the press yesterday. I turned about an inch off the top when I messed up. That's one of the luxuries of turning bowls. If you make too big a mistake, you don't ruin the top part of the bowl. You just wind up with a shorter bowl.
> I was happy with the way things were going. With the new bowl thickness calipers, I was able to get a more accurate measurement of the side walls and was much more comfortable about going thinner than I have in the past. Maybe I was a little too comfortable. If you read the title of this entry, you already know that a huge mistake is about to be told.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was getting near the bottom, I slipped with the gouge and made a nasty tear out section in the bottom of the bowl. So with some careful measuring, I figure I could go at least another sixteenth to an eighth inch deeper with no problems. I started doing that and quickly realized maybe that a sixteenth of an inch was about a sixteenth of an inch too much.
> You see, when I thought back to see where I made the mistake at, I realized something. I did have enough material to go deeper about an inch and a half from the side where I measured at. However, since I, for some odd reason, like to cut a concave profile on the bottom of my bowls so they are sure to sit flat on a table, that meant I had less material than that closer to the center. Apparently, I had less than a sixteenth of an inch.
> This is what happens when you turn clean through the bottom of a bowl. This is how NOT to turn a bowl. It doesn't hold things too well with a large hole in the bottom.
> 
> .
> 
> I also ran into another problem today. Well actually it is an ongoing problem that I am constantly learning to deal with. My lathe is actually underpowered for turning a bowl this large. It doesn't matter how light I make my passes, the lathe is under a stain turning this kind of mass. I feel there has to be a way around this problem, since there is no way I'll be able to afford a more substantial lathe anytime in the foreseeable future. So I am, as I'm able, working on a few ideas on that front. I am determined to be able to turn bowls.
> I changed the grind on my gouge today to a steeper angle. That seemed to help a tiny bit, but I also plan on trying a ring, or hook cutter, sometimes in the future.
> I'm also playing with speed on my lathe. It turned smoother at high speeds, but also seems to bog down easier. So I'm thinking of turning slower until the final passes to clean up rough areas.
> I'm also thinking of ways to take some of the work load off of the lathe. If I remove the middle of the rings I glue up for blanks, that would eliminate the need for the lathe to have to turn that much weight in the beginning while I'm roughing everything out. This still would not help me if I'm turning a bowl from a fallen tree though. So that one is still a concept in the works.
> I've done some research. The best answer would be to get a larger lathe with more horsepower that can handle that kind of mass. The thing is, when I look at the prices of such lathes, all I can think of is the fact that my kids need something called food more than I need a bigger lathe. So I don't see that happening.
> So where does all this lead? Well, in the past, I've built my own tools when I couldn't afford large enough to do what I needed to do. It'll take some time. I've been looking for parts. The largest obstacle will be finding a large enough motor. I do see sometime in the future though that I want to build a heavier duty lathe than my wallet would ever allow me to purchase from a name brand supplier.
> One day.


William,
I don't see no problem with that funnel!!! ;^)

Could you glue on another ring and have another go at it???
edit: Nate beat me to it!!!

Bigger is (almost) always better!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How NOT To Turn A Bowl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last entry, I had left the first bowl to ever be pressed in the bowl pressed drying for today. Well I unclamped it today and am glad to report that the press applied plenty enough pressure and I am very happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to chucking it up on the lathe and went at it. I love turning bowls. You may notice it is a little shorter than what was shown clamped up in the press yesterday. I turned about an inch off the top when I messed up. That's one of the luxuries of turning bowls. If you make too big a mistake, you don't ruin the top part of the bowl. You just wind up with a shorter bowl.
> I was happy with the way things were going. With the new bowl thickness calipers, I was able to get a more accurate measurement of the side walls and was much more comfortable about going thinner than I have in the past. Maybe I was a little too comfortable. If you read the title of this entry, you already know that a huge mistake is about to be told.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was getting near the bottom, I slipped with the gouge and made a nasty tear out section in the bottom of the bowl. So with some careful measuring, I figure I could go at least another sixteenth to an eighth inch deeper with no problems. I started doing that and quickly realized maybe that a sixteenth of an inch was about a sixteenth of an inch too much.
> You see, when I thought back to see where I made the mistake at, I realized something. I did have enough material to go deeper about an inch and a half from the side where I measured at. However, since I, for some odd reason, like to cut a concave profile on the bottom of my bowls so they are sure to sit flat on a table, that meant I had less material than that closer to the center. Apparently, I had less than a sixteenth of an inch.
> This is what happens when you turn clean through the bottom of a bowl. This is how NOT to turn a bowl. It doesn't hold things too well with a large hole in the bottom.
> 
> .
> 
> I also ran into another problem today. Well actually it is an ongoing problem that I am constantly learning to deal with. My lathe is actually underpowered for turning a bowl this large. It doesn't matter how light I make my passes, the lathe is under a stain turning this kind of mass. I feel there has to be a way around this problem, since there is no way I'll be able to afford a more substantial lathe anytime in the foreseeable future. So I am, as I'm able, working on a few ideas on that front. I am determined to be able to turn bowls.
> I changed the grind on my gouge today to a steeper angle. That seemed to help a tiny bit, but I also plan on trying a ring, or hook cutter, sometimes in the future.
> I'm also playing with speed on my lathe. It turned smoother at high speeds, but also seems to bog down easier. So I'm thinking of turning slower until the final passes to clean up rough areas.
> I'm also thinking of ways to take some of the work load off of the lathe. If I remove the middle of the rings I glue up for blanks, that would eliminate the need for the lathe to have to turn that much weight in the beginning while I'm roughing everything out. This still would not help me if I'm turning a bowl from a fallen tree though. So that one is still a concept in the works.
> I've done some research. The best answer would be to get a larger lathe with more horsepower that can handle that kind of mass. The thing is, when I look at the prices of such lathes, all I can think of is the fact that my kids need something called food more than I need a bigger lathe. So I don't see that happening.
> So where does all this lead? Well, in the past, I've built my own tools when I couldn't afford large enough to do what I needed to do. It'll take some time. I've been looking for parts. The largest obstacle will be finding a large enough motor. I do see sometime in the future though that I want to build a heavier duty lathe than my wallet would ever allow me to purchase from a name brand supplier.
> One day.


I have fixed this exact same problem before by gluing a plug in. Unfortunately, since this one became too thin over the entire bottom, I think I'm going to leave it alone. Besides, I've already given it to the kids. They wanted it for something they're creating for their marbles. So the bowl may be more valuable to their creativity than it ever would be to me as a bowl.

Nate, I will eventually figure out something. I was thinking today that I actually love this particulat lathe if the motor was just more powerful. So, after the warranty is gone on it, and if the motor bites the dust then, it would be a good donor for a larger motor. 
That brings me to Randy's comment about bigger is better. I'm glad you included almost, because that plays right into what I want to say.
Another issue with getting another lathe, if I could afford one, is what would I be getting? I've learned that, even if I could afford to go out and buy some high priced fancy lathe, it doesn't always mean you're getting anything better than what is already sitting on the shop floor. The only way I'd shell out big money for another lathe, if I had it, would be if I could find a great older lathe with a proven track record. These days you're just about always better off building up yourself than you are wasting money on something new. You just never know what you're going to get.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How NOT To Turn A Bowl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last entry, I had left the first bowl to ever be pressed in the bowl pressed drying for today. Well I unclamped it today and am glad to report that the press applied plenty enough pressure and I am very happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to chucking it up on the lathe and went at it. I love turning bowls. You may notice it is a little shorter than what was shown clamped up in the press yesterday. I turned about an inch off the top when I messed up. That's one of the luxuries of turning bowls. If you make too big a mistake, you don't ruin the top part of the bowl. You just wind up with a shorter bowl.
> I was happy with the way things were going. With the new bowl thickness calipers, I was able to get a more accurate measurement of the side walls and was much more comfortable about going thinner than I have in the past. Maybe I was a little too comfortable. If you read the title of this entry, you already know that a huge mistake is about to be told.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was getting near the bottom, I slipped with the gouge and made a nasty tear out section in the bottom of the bowl. So with some careful measuring, I figure I could go at least another sixteenth to an eighth inch deeper with no problems. I started doing that and quickly realized maybe that a sixteenth of an inch was about a sixteenth of an inch too much.
> You see, when I thought back to see where I made the mistake at, I realized something. I did have enough material to go deeper about an inch and a half from the side where I measured at. However, since I, for some odd reason, like to cut a concave profile on the bottom of my bowls so they are sure to sit flat on a table, that meant I had less material than that closer to the center. Apparently, I had less than a sixteenth of an inch.
> This is what happens when you turn clean through the bottom of a bowl. This is how NOT to turn a bowl. It doesn't hold things too well with a large hole in the bottom.
> 
> .
> 
> I also ran into another problem today. Well actually it is an ongoing problem that I am constantly learning to deal with. My lathe is actually underpowered for turning a bowl this large. It doesn't matter how light I make my passes, the lathe is under a stain turning this kind of mass. I feel there has to be a way around this problem, since there is no way I'll be able to afford a more substantial lathe anytime in the foreseeable future. So I am, as I'm able, working on a few ideas on that front. I am determined to be able to turn bowls.
> I changed the grind on my gouge today to a steeper angle. That seemed to help a tiny bit, but I also plan on trying a ring, or hook cutter, sometimes in the future.
> I'm also playing with speed on my lathe. It turned smoother at high speeds, but also seems to bog down easier. So I'm thinking of turning slower until the final passes to clean up rough areas.
> I'm also thinking of ways to take some of the work load off of the lathe. If I remove the middle of the rings I glue up for blanks, that would eliminate the need for the lathe to have to turn that much weight in the beginning while I'm roughing everything out. This still would not help me if I'm turning a bowl from a fallen tree though. So that one is still a concept in the works.
> I've done some research. The best answer would be to get a larger lathe with more horsepower that can handle that kind of mass. The thing is, when I look at the prices of such lathes, all I can think of is the fact that my kids need something called food more than I need a bigger lathe. So I don't see that happening.
> So where does all this lead? Well, in the past, I've built my own tools when I couldn't afford large enough to do what I needed to do. It'll take some time. I've been looking for parts. The largest obstacle will be finding a large enough motor. I do see sometime in the future though that I want to build a heavier duty lathe than my wallet would ever allow me to purchase from a name brand supplier.
> One day.


William, Glad to hear the kids have a use for the bowl. Looks like the press works really well. 
As to the lathe, I hear what you are saying about getting more or not? My lathe is pretty old but I got it at a good price. It can handle everything I have thrown at it so far and even though my wife is interested in turning a couple of bowls I do not see us doing anything huge. Even though the guys at Woodcraft needle me about the #1 Morris Taper and when I am going to upgrade the cost is too much. Plus as you mentioned for that cost you are still not really sure if you are going to get a good quality tool these days.

Look forward to seeing some of your future solutions.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How NOT To Turn A Bowl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last entry, I had left the first bowl to ever be pressed in the bowl pressed drying for today. Well I unclamped it today and am glad to report that the press applied plenty enough pressure and I am very happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to chucking it up on the lathe and went at it. I love turning bowls. You may notice it is a little shorter than what was shown clamped up in the press yesterday. I turned about an inch off the top when I messed up. That's one of the luxuries of turning bowls. If you make too big a mistake, you don't ruin the top part of the bowl. You just wind up with a shorter bowl.
> I was happy with the way things were going. With the new bowl thickness calipers, I was able to get a more accurate measurement of the side walls and was much more comfortable about going thinner than I have in the past. Maybe I was a little too comfortable. If you read the title of this entry, you already know that a huge mistake is about to be told.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was getting near the bottom, I slipped with the gouge and made a nasty tear out section in the bottom of the bowl. So with some careful measuring, I figure I could go at least another sixteenth to an eighth inch deeper with no problems. I started doing that and quickly realized maybe that a sixteenth of an inch was about a sixteenth of an inch too much.
> You see, when I thought back to see where I made the mistake at, I realized something. I did have enough material to go deeper about an inch and a half from the side where I measured at. However, since I, for some odd reason, like to cut a concave profile on the bottom of my bowls so they are sure to sit flat on a table, that meant I had less material than that closer to the center. Apparently, I had less than a sixteenth of an inch.
> This is what happens when you turn clean through the bottom of a bowl. This is how NOT to turn a bowl. It doesn't hold things too well with a large hole in the bottom.
> 
> .
> 
> I also ran into another problem today. Well actually it is an ongoing problem that I am constantly learning to deal with. My lathe is actually underpowered for turning a bowl this large. It doesn't matter how light I make my passes, the lathe is under a stain turning this kind of mass. I feel there has to be a way around this problem, since there is no way I'll be able to afford a more substantial lathe anytime in the foreseeable future. So I am, as I'm able, working on a few ideas on that front. I am determined to be able to turn bowls.
> I changed the grind on my gouge today to a steeper angle. That seemed to help a tiny bit, but I also plan on trying a ring, or hook cutter, sometimes in the future.
> I'm also playing with speed on my lathe. It turned smoother at high speeds, but also seems to bog down easier. So I'm thinking of turning slower until the final passes to clean up rough areas.
> I'm also thinking of ways to take some of the work load off of the lathe. If I remove the middle of the rings I glue up for blanks, that would eliminate the need for the lathe to have to turn that much weight in the beginning while I'm roughing everything out. This still would not help me if I'm turning a bowl from a fallen tree though. So that one is still a concept in the works.
> I've done some research. The best answer would be to get a larger lathe with more horsepower that can handle that kind of mass. The thing is, when I look at the prices of such lathes, all I can think of is the fact that my kids need something called food more than I need a bigger lathe. So I don't see that happening.
> So where does all this lead? Well, in the past, I've built my own tools when I couldn't afford large enough to do what I needed to do. It'll take some time. I've been looking for parts. The largest obstacle will be finding a large enough motor. I do see sometime in the future though that I want to build a heavier duty lathe than my wallet would ever allow me to purchase from a name brand supplier.
> One day.


It may be a while Chris. I have to wait till I can find everything. 
I've been looking online tonight though at some home made lathes. It seems very doable to make a decent lathe yourself. The biggest hurdle is going to be a motor. From what I'm reading, I need at least a two horsepower. I have a 220 outlet near where the current lathe resides. So that won't be a problem. New motors that strong aren't cheap though. I'll have to keep my eyes peeled for a good used one.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How NOT To Turn A Bowl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last entry, I had left the first bowl to ever be pressed in the bowl pressed drying for today. Well I unclamped it today and am glad to report that the press applied plenty enough pressure and I am very happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to chucking it up on the lathe and went at it. I love turning bowls. You may notice it is a little shorter than what was shown clamped up in the press yesterday. I turned about an inch off the top when I messed up. That's one of the luxuries of turning bowls. If you make too big a mistake, you don't ruin the top part of the bowl. You just wind up with a shorter bowl.
> I was happy with the way things were going. With the new bowl thickness calipers, I was able to get a more accurate measurement of the side walls and was much more comfortable about going thinner than I have in the past. Maybe I was a little too comfortable. If you read the title of this entry, you already know that a huge mistake is about to be told.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was getting near the bottom, I slipped with the gouge and made a nasty tear out section in the bottom of the bowl. So with some careful measuring, I figure I could go at least another sixteenth to an eighth inch deeper with no problems. I started doing that and quickly realized maybe that a sixteenth of an inch was about a sixteenth of an inch too much.
> You see, when I thought back to see where I made the mistake at, I realized something. I did have enough material to go deeper about an inch and a half from the side where I measured at. However, since I, for some odd reason, like to cut a concave profile on the bottom of my bowls so they are sure to sit flat on a table, that meant I had less material than that closer to the center. Apparently, I had less than a sixteenth of an inch.
> This is what happens when you turn clean through the bottom of a bowl. This is how NOT to turn a bowl. It doesn't hold things too well with a large hole in the bottom.
> 
> .
> 
> I also ran into another problem today. Well actually it is an ongoing problem that I am constantly learning to deal with. My lathe is actually underpowered for turning a bowl this large. It doesn't matter how light I make my passes, the lathe is under a stain turning this kind of mass. I feel there has to be a way around this problem, since there is no way I'll be able to afford a more substantial lathe anytime in the foreseeable future. So I am, as I'm able, working on a few ideas on that front. I am determined to be able to turn bowls.
> I changed the grind on my gouge today to a steeper angle. That seemed to help a tiny bit, but I also plan on trying a ring, or hook cutter, sometimes in the future.
> I'm also playing with speed on my lathe. It turned smoother at high speeds, but also seems to bog down easier. So I'm thinking of turning slower until the final passes to clean up rough areas.
> I'm also thinking of ways to take some of the work load off of the lathe. If I remove the middle of the rings I glue up for blanks, that would eliminate the need for the lathe to have to turn that much weight in the beginning while I'm roughing everything out. This still would not help me if I'm turning a bowl from a fallen tree though. So that one is still a concept in the works.
> I've done some research. The best answer would be to get a larger lathe with more horsepower that can handle that kind of mass. The thing is, when I look at the prices of such lathes, all I can think of is the fact that my kids need something called food more than I need a bigger lathe. So I don't see that happening.
> So where does all this lead? Well, in the past, I've built my own tools when I couldn't afford large enough to do what I needed to do. It'll take some time. I've been looking for parts. The largest obstacle will be finding a large enough motor. I do see sometime in the future though that I want to build a heavier duty lathe than my wallet would ever allow me to purchase from a name brand supplier.
> One day.


Now if you could just rig a flywheel on the Blazer like the old John Deere's had. 400 HP lathe!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How NOT To Turn A Bowl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last entry, I had left the first bowl to ever be pressed in the bowl pressed drying for today. Well I unclamped it today and am glad to report that the press applied plenty enough pressure and I am very happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to chucking it up on the lathe and went at it. I love turning bowls. You may notice it is a little shorter than what was shown clamped up in the press yesterday. I turned about an inch off the top when I messed up. That's one of the luxuries of turning bowls. If you make too big a mistake, you don't ruin the top part of the bowl. You just wind up with a shorter bowl.
> I was happy with the way things were going. With the new bowl thickness calipers, I was able to get a more accurate measurement of the side walls and was much more comfortable about going thinner than I have in the past. Maybe I was a little too comfortable. If you read the title of this entry, you already know that a huge mistake is about to be told.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was getting near the bottom, I slipped with the gouge and made a nasty tear out section in the bottom of the bowl. So with some careful measuring, I figure I could go at least another sixteenth to an eighth inch deeper with no problems. I started doing that and quickly realized maybe that a sixteenth of an inch was about a sixteenth of an inch too much.
> You see, when I thought back to see where I made the mistake at, I realized something. I did have enough material to go deeper about an inch and a half from the side where I measured at. However, since I, for some odd reason, like to cut a concave profile on the bottom of my bowls so they are sure to sit flat on a table, that meant I had less material than that closer to the center. Apparently, I had less than a sixteenth of an inch.
> This is what happens when you turn clean through the bottom of a bowl. This is how NOT to turn a bowl. It doesn't hold things too well with a large hole in the bottom.
> 
> .
> 
> I also ran into another problem today. Well actually it is an ongoing problem that I am constantly learning to deal with. My lathe is actually underpowered for turning a bowl this large. It doesn't matter how light I make my passes, the lathe is under a stain turning this kind of mass. I feel there has to be a way around this problem, since there is no way I'll be able to afford a more substantial lathe anytime in the foreseeable future. So I am, as I'm able, working on a few ideas on that front. I am determined to be able to turn bowls.
> I changed the grind on my gouge today to a steeper angle. That seemed to help a tiny bit, but I also plan on trying a ring, or hook cutter, sometimes in the future.
> I'm also playing with speed on my lathe. It turned smoother at high speeds, but also seems to bog down easier. So I'm thinking of turning slower until the final passes to clean up rough areas.
> I'm also thinking of ways to take some of the work load off of the lathe. If I remove the middle of the rings I glue up for blanks, that would eliminate the need for the lathe to have to turn that much weight in the beginning while I'm roughing everything out. This still would not help me if I'm turning a bowl from a fallen tree though. So that one is still a concept in the works.
> I've done some research. The best answer would be to get a larger lathe with more horsepower that can handle that kind of mass. The thing is, when I look at the prices of such lathes, all I can think of is the fact that my kids need something called food more than I need a bigger lathe. So I don't see that happening.
> So where does all this lead? Well, in the past, I've built my own tools when I couldn't afford large enough to do what I needed to do. It'll take some time. I've been looking for parts. The largest obstacle will be finding a large enough motor. I do see sometime in the future though that I want to build a heavier duty lathe than my wallet would ever allow me to purchase from a name brand supplier.
> One day.


I think you're joking Andy, but less than an hour ago I read an article about turning a bowl that was over eight feet in diameter. They rigged a chuck to the axle of a chevy rearend. That was driven through a gearbox that was chain driven from a tractor PTO. 
Now, in all seriousness about my own situation. I keep talking about the motor I need, but I haven't said anything at all about how I'm going to transfer the power of said motor to a spindle shaft. I'm thinking of using a Ford transmission I have tucked away at the back of the shop. This will give me extra torque for large heavy bowls. Also, it'll add even more mass to the contraption to keep it stable. 
Of course, all this is purely speculation at this point, but I have been putting some thought into this. It may be a year or two before I can have everything together, but I will eventually build a lathe that'll handle anything I could possibly throw at it.


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How NOT To Turn A Bowl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last entry, I had left the first bowl to ever be pressed in the bowl pressed drying for today. Well I unclamped it today and am glad to report that the press applied plenty enough pressure and I am very happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to chucking it up on the lathe and went at it. I love turning bowls. You may notice it is a little shorter than what was shown clamped up in the press yesterday. I turned about an inch off the top when I messed up. That's one of the luxuries of turning bowls. If you make too big a mistake, you don't ruin the top part of the bowl. You just wind up with a shorter bowl.
> I was happy with the way things were going. With the new bowl thickness calipers, I was able to get a more accurate measurement of the side walls and was much more comfortable about going thinner than I have in the past. Maybe I was a little too comfortable. If you read the title of this entry, you already know that a huge mistake is about to be told.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was getting near the bottom, I slipped with the gouge and made a nasty tear out section in the bottom of the bowl. So with some careful measuring, I figure I could go at least another sixteenth to an eighth inch deeper with no problems. I started doing that and quickly realized maybe that a sixteenth of an inch was about a sixteenth of an inch too much.
> You see, when I thought back to see where I made the mistake at, I realized something. I did have enough material to go deeper about an inch and a half from the side where I measured at. However, since I, for some odd reason, like to cut a concave profile on the bottom of my bowls so they are sure to sit flat on a table, that meant I had less material than that closer to the center. Apparently, I had less than a sixteenth of an inch.
> This is what happens when you turn clean through the bottom of a bowl. This is how NOT to turn a bowl. It doesn't hold things too well with a large hole in the bottom.
> 
> .
> 
> I also ran into another problem today. Well actually it is an ongoing problem that I am constantly learning to deal with. My lathe is actually underpowered for turning a bowl this large. It doesn't matter how light I make my passes, the lathe is under a stain turning this kind of mass. I feel there has to be a way around this problem, since there is no way I'll be able to afford a more substantial lathe anytime in the foreseeable future. So I am, as I'm able, working on a few ideas on that front. I am determined to be able to turn bowls.
> I changed the grind on my gouge today to a steeper angle. That seemed to help a tiny bit, but I also plan on trying a ring, or hook cutter, sometimes in the future.
> I'm also playing with speed on my lathe. It turned smoother at high speeds, but also seems to bog down easier. So I'm thinking of turning slower until the final passes to clean up rough areas.
> I'm also thinking of ways to take some of the work load off of the lathe. If I remove the middle of the rings I glue up for blanks, that would eliminate the need for the lathe to have to turn that much weight in the beginning while I'm roughing everything out. This still would not help me if I'm turning a bowl from a fallen tree though. So that one is still a concept in the works.
> I've done some research. The best answer would be to get a larger lathe with more horsepower that can handle that kind of mass. The thing is, when I look at the prices of such lathes, all I can think of is the fact that my kids need something called food more than I need a bigger lathe. So I don't see that happening.
> So where does all this lead? Well, in the past, I've built my own tools when I couldn't afford large enough to do what I needed to do. It'll take some time. I've been looking for parts. The largest obstacle will be finding a large enough motor. I do see sometime in the future though that I want to build a heavier duty lathe than my wallet would ever allow me to purchase from a name brand supplier.
> One day.


William that is a first class lamp shade 

Jamie


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How NOT To Turn A Bowl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last entry, I had left the first bowl to ever be pressed in the bowl pressed drying for today. Well I unclamped it today and am glad to report that the press applied plenty enough pressure and I am very happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to chucking it up on the lathe and went at it. I love turning bowls. You may notice it is a little shorter than what was shown clamped up in the press yesterday. I turned about an inch off the top when I messed up. That's one of the luxuries of turning bowls. If you make too big a mistake, you don't ruin the top part of the bowl. You just wind up with a shorter bowl.
> I was happy with the way things were going. With the new bowl thickness calipers, I was able to get a more accurate measurement of the side walls and was much more comfortable about going thinner than I have in the past. Maybe I was a little too comfortable. If you read the title of this entry, you already know that a huge mistake is about to be told.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was getting near the bottom, I slipped with the gouge and made a nasty tear out section in the bottom of the bowl. So with some careful measuring, I figure I could go at least another sixteenth to an eighth inch deeper with no problems. I started doing that and quickly realized maybe that a sixteenth of an inch was about a sixteenth of an inch too much.
> You see, when I thought back to see where I made the mistake at, I realized something. I did have enough material to go deeper about an inch and a half from the side where I measured at. However, since I, for some odd reason, like to cut a concave profile on the bottom of my bowls so they are sure to sit flat on a table, that meant I had less material than that closer to the center. Apparently, I had less than a sixteenth of an inch.
> This is what happens when you turn clean through the bottom of a bowl. This is how NOT to turn a bowl. It doesn't hold things too well with a large hole in the bottom.
> 
> .
> 
> I also ran into another problem today. Well actually it is an ongoing problem that I am constantly learning to deal with. My lathe is actually underpowered for turning a bowl this large. It doesn't matter how light I make my passes, the lathe is under a stain turning this kind of mass. I feel there has to be a way around this problem, since there is no way I'll be able to afford a more substantial lathe anytime in the foreseeable future. So I am, as I'm able, working on a few ideas on that front. I am determined to be able to turn bowls.
> I changed the grind on my gouge today to a steeper angle. That seemed to help a tiny bit, but I also plan on trying a ring, or hook cutter, sometimes in the future.
> I'm also playing with speed on my lathe. It turned smoother at high speeds, but also seems to bog down easier. So I'm thinking of turning slower until the final passes to clean up rough areas.
> I'm also thinking of ways to take some of the work load off of the lathe. If I remove the middle of the rings I glue up for blanks, that would eliminate the need for the lathe to have to turn that much weight in the beginning while I'm roughing everything out. This still would not help me if I'm turning a bowl from a fallen tree though. So that one is still a concept in the works.
> I've done some research. The best answer would be to get a larger lathe with more horsepower that can handle that kind of mass. The thing is, when I look at the prices of such lathes, all I can think of is the fact that my kids need something called food more than I need a bigger lathe. So I don't see that happening.
> So where does all this lead? Well, in the past, I've built my own tools when I couldn't afford large enough to do what I needed to do. It'll take some time. I've been looking for parts. The largest obstacle will be finding a large enough motor. I do see sometime in the future though that I want to build a heavier duty lathe than my wallet would ever allow me to purchase from a name brand supplier.
> One day.


The press looks great and it sure did the job. As for turning through the bottom, you can avoid that by drilling a hole in the the center of your workpiece after you get it rounded and squared up at the ends. Just measure the depth you want and use a piece of tape on a long drill bit to mark the depth (I use the kind of drill bit designed for electricians that is about 5/8" diam. and 15" or so long. I use a vise grip as a handle and I just drill to depth using the slowest speed on the lathe, and I pull the bit out as I go to clear the swarf to avoid freezing the bit in the hole. When your hole disappears you are at the correct depth.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How NOT To Turn A Bowl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last entry, I had left the first bowl to ever be pressed in the bowl pressed drying for today. Well I unclamped it today and am glad to report that the press applied plenty enough pressure and I am very happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to chucking it up on the lathe and went at it. I love turning bowls. You may notice it is a little shorter than what was shown clamped up in the press yesterday. I turned about an inch off the top when I messed up. That's one of the luxuries of turning bowls. If you make too big a mistake, you don't ruin the top part of the bowl. You just wind up with a shorter bowl.
> I was happy with the way things were going. With the new bowl thickness calipers, I was able to get a more accurate measurement of the side walls and was much more comfortable about going thinner than I have in the past. Maybe I was a little too comfortable. If you read the title of this entry, you already know that a huge mistake is about to be told.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was getting near the bottom, I slipped with the gouge and made a nasty tear out section in the bottom of the bowl. So with some careful measuring, I figure I could go at least another sixteenth to an eighth inch deeper with no problems. I started doing that and quickly realized maybe that a sixteenth of an inch was about a sixteenth of an inch too much.
> You see, when I thought back to see where I made the mistake at, I realized something. I did have enough material to go deeper about an inch and a half from the side where I measured at. However, since I, for some odd reason, like to cut a concave profile on the bottom of my bowls so they are sure to sit flat on a table, that meant I had less material than that closer to the center. Apparently, I had less than a sixteenth of an inch.
> This is what happens when you turn clean through the bottom of a bowl. This is how NOT to turn a bowl. It doesn't hold things too well with a large hole in the bottom.
> 
> .
> 
> I also ran into another problem today. Well actually it is an ongoing problem that I am constantly learning to deal with. My lathe is actually underpowered for turning a bowl this large. It doesn't matter how light I make my passes, the lathe is under a stain turning this kind of mass. I feel there has to be a way around this problem, since there is no way I'll be able to afford a more substantial lathe anytime in the foreseeable future. So I am, as I'm able, working on a few ideas on that front. I am determined to be able to turn bowls.
> I changed the grind on my gouge today to a steeper angle. That seemed to help a tiny bit, but I also plan on trying a ring, or hook cutter, sometimes in the future.
> I'm also playing with speed on my lathe. It turned smoother at high speeds, but also seems to bog down easier. So I'm thinking of turning slower until the final passes to clean up rough areas.
> I'm also thinking of ways to take some of the work load off of the lathe. If I remove the middle of the rings I glue up for blanks, that would eliminate the need for the lathe to have to turn that much weight in the beginning while I'm roughing everything out. This still would not help me if I'm turning a bowl from a fallen tree though. So that one is still a concept in the works.
> I've done some research. The best answer would be to get a larger lathe with more horsepower that can handle that kind of mass. The thing is, when I look at the prices of such lathes, all I can think of is the fact that my kids need something called food more than I need a bigger lathe. So I don't see that happening.
> So where does all this lead? Well, in the past, I've built my own tools when I couldn't afford large enough to do what I needed to do. It'll take some time. I've been looking for parts. The largest obstacle will be finding a large enough motor. I do see sometime in the future though that I want to build a heavier duty lathe than my wallet would ever allow me to purchase from a name brand supplier.
> One day.


Thqanks Jamie. I'll go with that story next time.

Mike, thanks. I have used the hole method a couple of times in the past. I have a drill bit made up with a handle on it just for that purpose. I thought I could do it with my new measuring tools this time. I guess the drill bit is still a better option in this case though.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How NOT To Turn A Bowl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last entry, I had left the first bowl to ever be pressed in the bowl pressed drying for today. Well I unclamped it today and am glad to report that the press applied plenty enough pressure and I am very happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to chucking it up on the lathe and went at it. I love turning bowls. You may notice it is a little shorter than what was shown clamped up in the press yesterday. I turned about an inch off the top when I messed up. That's one of the luxuries of turning bowls. If you make too big a mistake, you don't ruin the top part of the bowl. You just wind up with a shorter bowl.
> I was happy with the way things were going. With the new bowl thickness calipers, I was able to get a more accurate measurement of the side walls and was much more comfortable about going thinner than I have in the past. Maybe I was a little too comfortable. If you read the title of this entry, you already know that a huge mistake is about to be told.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was getting near the bottom, I slipped with the gouge and made a nasty tear out section in the bottom of the bowl. So with some careful measuring, I figure I could go at least another sixteenth to an eighth inch deeper with no problems. I started doing that and quickly realized maybe that a sixteenth of an inch was about a sixteenth of an inch too much.
> You see, when I thought back to see where I made the mistake at, I realized something. I did have enough material to go deeper about an inch and a half from the side where I measured at. However, since I, for some odd reason, like to cut a concave profile on the bottom of my bowls so they are sure to sit flat on a table, that meant I had less material than that closer to the center. Apparently, I had less than a sixteenth of an inch.
> This is what happens when you turn clean through the bottom of a bowl. This is how NOT to turn a bowl. It doesn't hold things too well with a large hole in the bottom.
> 
> .
> 
> I also ran into another problem today. Well actually it is an ongoing problem that I am constantly learning to deal with. My lathe is actually underpowered for turning a bowl this large. It doesn't matter how light I make my passes, the lathe is under a stain turning this kind of mass. I feel there has to be a way around this problem, since there is no way I'll be able to afford a more substantial lathe anytime in the foreseeable future. So I am, as I'm able, working on a few ideas on that front. I am determined to be able to turn bowls.
> I changed the grind on my gouge today to a steeper angle. That seemed to help a tiny bit, but I also plan on trying a ring, or hook cutter, sometimes in the future.
> I'm also playing with speed on my lathe. It turned smoother at high speeds, but also seems to bog down easier. So I'm thinking of turning slower until the final passes to clean up rough areas.
> I'm also thinking of ways to take some of the work load off of the lathe. If I remove the middle of the rings I glue up for blanks, that would eliminate the need for the lathe to have to turn that much weight in the beginning while I'm roughing everything out. This still would not help me if I'm turning a bowl from a fallen tree though. So that one is still a concept in the works.
> I've done some research. The best answer would be to get a larger lathe with more horsepower that can handle that kind of mass. The thing is, when I look at the prices of such lathes, all I can think of is the fact that my kids need something called food more than I need a bigger lathe. So I don't see that happening.
> So where does all this lead? Well, in the past, I've built my own tools when I couldn't afford large enough to do what I needed to do. It'll take some time. I've been looking for parts. The largest obstacle will be finding a large enough motor. I do see sometime in the future though that I want to build a heavier duty lathe than my wallet would ever allow me to purchase from a name brand supplier.
> One day.


I'm thinkin, funnel.  You could just glue a new bottom in it…?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How NOT To Turn A Bowl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last entry, I had left the first bowl to ever be pressed in the bowl pressed drying for today. Well I unclamped it today and am glad to report that the press applied plenty enough pressure and I am very happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to chucking it up on the lathe and went at it. I love turning bowls. You may notice it is a little shorter than what was shown clamped up in the press yesterday. I turned about an inch off the top when I messed up. That's one of the luxuries of turning bowls. If you make too big a mistake, you don't ruin the top part of the bowl. You just wind up with a shorter bowl.
> I was happy with the way things were going. With the new bowl thickness calipers, I was able to get a more accurate measurement of the side walls and was much more comfortable about going thinner than I have in the past. Maybe I was a little too comfortable. If you read the title of this entry, you already know that a huge mistake is about to be told.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was getting near the bottom, I slipped with the gouge and made a nasty tear out section in the bottom of the bowl. So with some careful measuring, I figure I could go at least another sixteenth to an eighth inch deeper with no problems. I started doing that and quickly realized maybe that a sixteenth of an inch was about a sixteenth of an inch too much.
> You see, when I thought back to see where I made the mistake at, I realized something. I did have enough material to go deeper about an inch and a half from the side where I measured at. However, since I, for some odd reason, like to cut a concave profile on the bottom of my bowls so they are sure to sit flat on a table, that meant I had less material than that closer to the center. Apparently, I had less than a sixteenth of an inch.
> This is what happens when you turn clean through the bottom of a bowl. This is how NOT to turn a bowl. It doesn't hold things too well with a large hole in the bottom.
> 
> .
> 
> I also ran into another problem today. Well actually it is an ongoing problem that I am constantly learning to deal with. My lathe is actually underpowered for turning a bowl this large. It doesn't matter how light I make my passes, the lathe is under a stain turning this kind of mass. I feel there has to be a way around this problem, since there is no way I'll be able to afford a more substantial lathe anytime in the foreseeable future. So I am, as I'm able, working on a few ideas on that front. I am determined to be able to turn bowls.
> I changed the grind on my gouge today to a steeper angle. That seemed to help a tiny bit, but I also plan on trying a ring, or hook cutter, sometimes in the future.
> I'm also playing with speed on my lathe. It turned smoother at high speeds, but also seems to bog down easier. So I'm thinking of turning slower until the final passes to clean up rough areas.
> I'm also thinking of ways to take some of the work load off of the lathe. If I remove the middle of the rings I glue up for blanks, that would eliminate the need for the lathe to have to turn that much weight in the beginning while I'm roughing everything out. This still would not help me if I'm turning a bowl from a fallen tree though. So that one is still a concept in the works.
> I've done some research. The best answer would be to get a larger lathe with more horsepower that can handle that kind of mass. The thing is, when I look at the prices of such lathes, all I can think of is the fact that my kids need something called food more than I need a bigger lathe. So I don't see that happening.
> So where does all this lead? Well, in the past, I've built my own tools when I couldn't afford large enough to do what I needed to do. It'll take some time. I've been looking for parts. The largest obstacle will be finding a large enough motor. I do see sometime in the future though that I want to build a heavier duty lathe than my wallet would ever allow me to purchase from a name brand supplier.
> One day.


Thanks Roger, but the kids have it now.

The kids told me it was supposed to be part of a marble contraption. While going up in front of the shop for coffee today though, I noticed it on the floor. They have sawed a square out of the side of it, turned it upside down, and are using it as a Hot Wheel garage. Hey, at least they got some use out of it.


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How NOT To Turn A Bowl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last entry, I had left the first bowl to ever be pressed in the bowl pressed drying for today. Well I unclamped it today and am glad to report that the press applied plenty enough pressure and I am very happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to chucking it up on the lathe and went at it. I love turning bowls. You may notice it is a little shorter than what was shown clamped up in the press yesterday. I turned about an inch off the top when I messed up. That's one of the luxuries of turning bowls. If you make too big a mistake, you don't ruin the top part of the bowl. You just wind up with a shorter bowl.
> I was happy with the way things were going. With the new bowl thickness calipers, I was able to get a more accurate measurement of the side walls and was much more comfortable about going thinner than I have in the past. Maybe I was a little too comfortable. If you read the title of this entry, you already know that a huge mistake is about to be told.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was getting near the bottom, I slipped with the gouge and made a nasty tear out section in the bottom of the bowl. So with some careful measuring, I figure I could go at least another sixteenth to an eighth inch deeper with no problems. I started doing that and quickly realized maybe that a sixteenth of an inch was about a sixteenth of an inch too much.
> You see, when I thought back to see where I made the mistake at, I realized something. I did have enough material to go deeper about an inch and a half from the side where I measured at. However, since I, for some odd reason, like to cut a concave profile on the bottom of my bowls so they are sure to sit flat on a table, that meant I had less material than that closer to the center. Apparently, I had less than a sixteenth of an inch.
> This is what happens when you turn clean through the bottom of a bowl. This is how NOT to turn a bowl. It doesn't hold things too well with a large hole in the bottom.
> 
> .
> 
> I also ran into another problem today. Well actually it is an ongoing problem that I am constantly learning to deal with. My lathe is actually underpowered for turning a bowl this large. It doesn't matter how light I make my passes, the lathe is under a stain turning this kind of mass. I feel there has to be a way around this problem, since there is no way I'll be able to afford a more substantial lathe anytime in the foreseeable future. So I am, as I'm able, working on a few ideas on that front. I am determined to be able to turn bowls.
> I changed the grind on my gouge today to a steeper angle. That seemed to help a tiny bit, but I also plan on trying a ring, or hook cutter, sometimes in the future.
> I'm also playing with speed on my lathe. It turned smoother at high speeds, but also seems to bog down easier. So I'm thinking of turning slower until the final passes to clean up rough areas.
> I'm also thinking of ways to take some of the work load off of the lathe. If I remove the middle of the rings I glue up for blanks, that would eliminate the need for the lathe to have to turn that much weight in the beginning while I'm roughing everything out. This still would not help me if I'm turning a bowl from a fallen tree though. So that one is still a concept in the works.
> I've done some research. The best answer would be to get a larger lathe with more horsepower that can handle that kind of mass. The thing is, when I look at the prices of such lathes, all I can think of is the fact that my kids need something called food more than I need a bigger lathe. So I don't see that happening.
> So where does all this lead? Well, in the past, I've built my own tools when I couldn't afford large enough to do what I needed to do. It'll take some time. I've been looking for parts. The largest obstacle will be finding a large enough motor. I do see sometime in the future though that I want to build a heavier duty lathe than my wallet would ever allow me to purchase from a name brand supplier.
> One day.


William,
I think we all have days like this, at least I know I do.
About that bottom, an LJ buddy of mine, Darryl, has a neat way to do the bottom of a vessel. Here's a link to one of his projects. The last comment explains a little about what he does- http://lumberjocks.com/projects/70070


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *How NOT To Turn A Bowl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the last entry, I had left the first bowl to ever be pressed in the bowl pressed drying for today. Well I unclamped it today and am glad to report that the press applied plenty enough pressure and I am very happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went to chucking it up on the lathe and went at it. I love turning bowls. You may notice it is a little shorter than what was shown clamped up in the press yesterday. I turned about an inch off the top when I messed up. That's one of the luxuries of turning bowls. If you make too big a mistake, you don't ruin the top part of the bowl. You just wind up with a shorter bowl.
> I was happy with the way things were going. With the new bowl thickness calipers, I was able to get a more accurate measurement of the side walls and was much more comfortable about going thinner than I have in the past. Maybe I was a little too comfortable. If you read the title of this entry, you already know that a huge mistake is about to be told.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was getting near the bottom, I slipped with the gouge and made a nasty tear out section in the bottom of the bowl. So with some careful measuring, I figure I could go at least another sixteenth to an eighth inch deeper with no problems. I started doing that and quickly realized maybe that a sixteenth of an inch was about a sixteenth of an inch too much.
> You see, when I thought back to see where I made the mistake at, I realized something. I did have enough material to go deeper about an inch and a half from the side where I measured at. However, since I, for some odd reason, like to cut a concave profile on the bottom of my bowls so they are sure to sit flat on a table, that meant I had less material than that closer to the center. Apparently, I had less than a sixteenth of an inch.
> This is what happens when you turn clean through the bottom of a bowl. This is how NOT to turn a bowl. It doesn't hold things too well with a large hole in the bottom.
> 
> .
> 
> I also ran into another problem today. Well actually it is an ongoing problem that I am constantly learning to deal with. My lathe is actually underpowered for turning a bowl this large. It doesn't matter how light I make my passes, the lathe is under a stain turning this kind of mass. I feel there has to be a way around this problem, since there is no way I'll be able to afford a more substantial lathe anytime in the foreseeable future. So I am, as I'm able, working on a few ideas on that front. I am determined to be able to turn bowls.
> I changed the grind on my gouge today to a steeper angle. That seemed to help a tiny bit, but I also plan on trying a ring, or hook cutter, sometimes in the future.
> I'm also playing with speed on my lathe. It turned smoother at high speeds, but also seems to bog down easier. So I'm thinking of turning slower until the final passes to clean up rough areas.
> I'm also thinking of ways to take some of the work load off of the lathe. If I remove the middle of the rings I glue up for blanks, that would eliminate the need for the lathe to have to turn that much weight in the beginning while I'm roughing everything out. This still would not help me if I'm turning a bowl from a fallen tree though. So that one is still a concept in the works.
> I've done some research. The best answer would be to get a larger lathe with more horsepower that can handle that kind of mass. The thing is, when I look at the prices of such lathes, all I can think of is the fact that my kids need something called food more than I need a bigger lathe. So I don't see that happening.
> So where does all this lead? Well, in the past, I've built my own tools when I couldn't afford large enough to do what I needed to do. It'll take some time. I've been looking for parts. The largest obstacle will be finding a large enough motor. I do see sometime in the future though that I want to build a heavier duty lathe than my wallet would ever allow me to purchase from a name brand supplier.
> One day.


Thanks Lew. I'll be sure to check it out. As you know, it'll be no surprise if this happens again.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Time To Back Up A Bit*

Have any of you ever noticed that when things start going wrong, they keep going wrong? For me, once it starts, it keeps going until I just all of a sudden have a victory, or I back it up a bit. Since the failures keep coming, I figured it was time to throw it in reverse. 
What do I mean by that? 
I have a tendency to want to do things that are challenging. Some may argue that I sometimes even push the envelope too much, too quickly, on things. I'm not saying that's a bad thing. I know from experience though that this makes me sometimes need to back it up and get back to the basics of what I'm trying to do. 
The multi wood pen I done a recently is going to a friend of mine. I wanted one for display though and had more blanks I had left over from gluing up all those strips of wood. These blanks look nice, but are a challenge to turn. I was careful about gluing them, but with the grain running all directions, it's almost like turning burl. No matter what angle of attack you use with your sharpest gouge, there is tear out if you are not careful and all the luck is there, and the stars align perfectly, and all that jazz.








This was the second pen I tried turning today. The first one literally blew apart on the lathe. This one, although you can't tell it by the picture, is a reject as well. I kept having to sand the front end of the pen more and more as pieces kept blowing off. This wound up making the front end just short enough that I had a hard time judging how far to press the advance mechanism in. As my recent luck would have it, I ended up pressing it just a tad too far. With the pen retracted all the way, you can hold the pen perfectly vertical and write with it. The end of the ink cartridge is right there at the tip. I refuse to put something like this in my display. Those of you who know me know that I don't allow things to leave my shop in other's hands if it isn't right.
Don't worry. Pens like this one, that are usable but not right; they don't go in the trash. They go in my truck for me to use myself. I said I wouldn't allow things like this leave in other people's hands. I didn't say I wouldn't use it. 
Anyway, I decided to just back up and turn a basic pen instead of trying anything fancy or different. Of course, since doing all the different styles I have now done, I don't do just simple, one wood species pens, unless it has some awesome grain. So I looked through my blanks and picked two woods that I have had good luck with in the past, walnut and maple. I did not try anything crazy here. I simply sliced the walnut down the length at an angle and glued a strip of maple in.
























It isn't much, but just to do something without problems, like I've had lately, felt good. 
That went well, but then I was thinking of what I wanted to do next. I decided that, while I thinking about it, to mount up between centers a piece of scrap wood and do some practice exercises. Sometimes I think it's good just to practice techniques. Even if you know how to do something, practice will either keep you good, or help you improve it in some way.








Next, I liked the way that last pen had turned out, so I wanted to do something else. I thought about more crazy stuff, but settled on doing something similar to the last pen. Just keep it simple. Sometimes simple seems more elegant than the craziest of designs. 
This blank is walnut and box elder. Since the box elder is bent pretty good while being pressed between the two pieces of walnut, I thought it would be a good idea to leave this blank overnight. It may self destruct on it's own if I unclamp it too soon. I took it out of the voce, snapped a photo, and put it right back in to leave till tomorrow.








This is a piece of pipe a good friend gave me a while back to try turning. It looks like PVC, but has a more rubbery feel to it. I think it will make a neat pen if I can turn it without any issues. 
I had tried a small piece of it before, unsuccessfully. I thought I'd give it another shot.








Here are the two blanks glued up. I'm leaving them overnight too. The last time I tried turning this, the tube let go in one of the blanks. I always scuff up the tubes before gluing them, but I think the type of material here may have had something to do with it. I'm hoping the extra curing time will help the situation. 
So that's two blanks for tomorrow, hopefully. We'll have to wait and see how they turn out.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Time To Back Up A Bit*
> 
> Have any of you ever noticed that when things start going wrong, they keep going wrong? For me, once it starts, it keeps going until I just all of a sudden have a victory, or I back it up a bit. Since the failures keep coming, I figured it was time to throw it in reverse.
> What do I mean by that?
> I have a tendency to want to do things that are challenging. Some may argue that I sometimes even push the envelope too much, too quickly, on things. I'm not saying that's a bad thing. I know from experience though that this makes me sometimes need to back it up and get back to the basics of what I'm trying to do.
> The multi wood pen I done a recently is going to a friend of mine. I wanted one for display though and had more blanks I had left over from gluing up all those strips of wood. These blanks look nice, but are a challenge to turn. I was careful about gluing them, but with the grain running all directions, it's almost like turning burl. No matter what angle of attack you use with your sharpest gouge, there is tear out if you are not careful and all the luck is there, and the stars align perfectly, and all that jazz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the second pen I tried turning today. The first one literally blew apart on the lathe. This one, although you can't tell it by the picture, is a reject as well. I kept having to sand the front end of the pen more and more as pieces kept blowing off. This wound up making the front end just short enough that I had a hard time judging how far to press the advance mechanism in. As my recent luck would have it, I ended up pressing it just a tad too far. With the pen retracted all the way, you can hold the pen perfectly vertical and write with it. The end of the ink cartridge is right there at the tip. I refuse to put something like this in my display. Those of you who know me know that I don't allow things to leave my shop in other's hands if it isn't right.
> Don't worry. Pens like this one, that are usable but not right; they don't go in the trash. They go in my truck for me to use myself. I said I wouldn't allow things like this leave in other people's hands. I didn't say I wouldn't use it.
> Anyway, I decided to just back up and turn a basic pen instead of trying anything fancy or different. Of course, since doing all the different styles I have now done, I don't do just simple, one wood species pens, unless it has some awesome grain. So I looked through my blanks and picked two woods that I have had good luck with in the past, walnut and maple. I did not try anything crazy here. I simply sliced the walnut down the length at an angle and glued a strip of maple in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It isn't much, but just to do something without problems, like I've had lately, felt good.
> That went well, but then I was thinking of what I wanted to do next. I decided that, while I thinking about it, to mount up between centers a piece of scrap wood and do some practice exercises. Sometimes I think it's good just to practice techniques. Even if you know how to do something, practice will either keep you good, or help you improve it in some way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I liked the way that last pen had turned out, so I wanted to do something else. I thought about more crazy stuff, but settled on doing something similar to the last pen. Just keep it simple. Sometimes simple seems more elegant than the craziest of designs.
> This blank is walnut and box elder. Since the box elder is bent pretty good while being pressed between the two pieces of walnut, I thought it would be a good idea to leave this blank overnight. It may self destruct on it's own if I unclamp it too soon. I took it out of the voce, snapped a photo, and put it right back in to leave till tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a piece of pipe a good friend gave me a while back to try turning. It looks like PVC, but has a more rubbery feel to it. I think it will make a neat pen if I can turn it without any issues.
> I had tried a small piece of it before, unsuccessfully. I thought I'd give it another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the two blanks glued up. I'm leaving them overnight too. The last time I tried turning this, the tube let go in one of the blanks. I always scuff up the tubes before gluing them, but I think the type of material here may have had something to do with it. I'm hoping the extra curing time will help the situation.
> So that's two blanks for tomorrow, hopefully. We'll have to wait and see how they turn out.


I don't know if I'll be able to sleep tonight….
Or if I'll have "pipe" dreams all night!!!

Eagerly awaiting the outcome of your latest experimentation!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Time To Back Up A Bit*
> 
> Have any of you ever noticed that when things start going wrong, they keep going wrong? For me, once it starts, it keeps going until I just all of a sudden have a victory, or I back it up a bit. Since the failures keep coming, I figured it was time to throw it in reverse.
> What do I mean by that?
> I have a tendency to want to do things that are challenging. Some may argue that I sometimes even push the envelope too much, too quickly, on things. I'm not saying that's a bad thing. I know from experience though that this makes me sometimes need to back it up and get back to the basics of what I'm trying to do.
> The multi wood pen I done a recently is going to a friend of mine. I wanted one for display though and had more blanks I had left over from gluing up all those strips of wood. These blanks look nice, but are a challenge to turn. I was careful about gluing them, but with the grain running all directions, it's almost like turning burl. No matter what angle of attack you use with your sharpest gouge, there is tear out if you are not careful and all the luck is there, and the stars align perfectly, and all that jazz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the second pen I tried turning today. The first one literally blew apart on the lathe. This one, although you can't tell it by the picture, is a reject as well. I kept having to sand the front end of the pen more and more as pieces kept blowing off. This wound up making the front end just short enough that I had a hard time judging how far to press the advance mechanism in. As my recent luck would have it, I ended up pressing it just a tad too far. With the pen retracted all the way, you can hold the pen perfectly vertical and write with it. The end of the ink cartridge is right there at the tip. I refuse to put something like this in my display. Those of you who know me know that I don't allow things to leave my shop in other's hands if it isn't right.
> Don't worry. Pens like this one, that are usable but not right; they don't go in the trash. They go in my truck for me to use myself. I said I wouldn't allow things like this leave in other people's hands. I didn't say I wouldn't use it.
> Anyway, I decided to just back up and turn a basic pen instead of trying anything fancy or different. Of course, since doing all the different styles I have now done, I don't do just simple, one wood species pens, unless it has some awesome grain. So I looked through my blanks and picked two woods that I have had good luck with in the past, walnut and maple. I did not try anything crazy here. I simply sliced the walnut down the length at an angle and glued a strip of maple in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It isn't much, but just to do something without problems, like I've had lately, felt good.
> That went well, but then I was thinking of what I wanted to do next. I decided that, while I thinking about it, to mount up between centers a piece of scrap wood and do some practice exercises. Sometimes I think it's good just to practice techniques. Even if you know how to do something, practice will either keep you good, or help you improve it in some way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I liked the way that last pen had turned out, so I wanted to do something else. I thought about more crazy stuff, but settled on doing something similar to the last pen. Just keep it simple. Sometimes simple seems more elegant than the craziest of designs.
> This blank is walnut and box elder. Since the box elder is bent pretty good while being pressed between the two pieces of walnut, I thought it would be a good idea to leave this blank overnight. It may self destruct on it's own if I unclamp it too soon. I took it out of the voce, snapped a photo, and put it right back in to leave till tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a piece of pipe a good friend gave me a while back to try turning. It looks like PVC, but has a more rubbery feel to it. I think it will make a neat pen if I can turn it without any issues.
> I had tried a small piece of it before, unsuccessfully. I thought I'd give it another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the two blanks glued up. I'm leaving them overnight too. The last time I tried turning this, the tube let go in one of the blanks. I always scuff up the tubes before gluing them, but I think the type of material here may have had something to do with it. I'm hoping the extra curing time will help the situation.
> So that's two blanks for tomorrow, hopefully. We'll have to wait and see how they turn out.


Thanks Randy.
As long as my health allows me to get to the shop tomorrow, we will definately see how it goes.


----------



## Chips

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Time To Back Up A Bit*
> 
> Have any of you ever noticed that when things start going wrong, they keep going wrong? For me, once it starts, it keeps going until I just all of a sudden have a victory, or I back it up a bit. Since the failures keep coming, I figured it was time to throw it in reverse.
> What do I mean by that?
> I have a tendency to want to do things that are challenging. Some may argue that I sometimes even push the envelope too much, too quickly, on things. I'm not saying that's a bad thing. I know from experience though that this makes me sometimes need to back it up and get back to the basics of what I'm trying to do.
> The multi wood pen I done a recently is going to a friend of mine. I wanted one for display though and had more blanks I had left over from gluing up all those strips of wood. These blanks look nice, but are a challenge to turn. I was careful about gluing them, but with the grain running all directions, it's almost like turning burl. No matter what angle of attack you use with your sharpest gouge, there is tear out if you are not careful and all the luck is there, and the stars align perfectly, and all that jazz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the second pen I tried turning today. The first one literally blew apart on the lathe. This one, although you can't tell it by the picture, is a reject as well. I kept having to sand the front end of the pen more and more as pieces kept blowing off. This wound up making the front end just short enough that I had a hard time judging how far to press the advance mechanism in. As my recent luck would have it, I ended up pressing it just a tad too far. With the pen retracted all the way, you can hold the pen perfectly vertical and write with it. The end of the ink cartridge is right there at the tip. I refuse to put something like this in my display. Those of you who know me know that I don't allow things to leave my shop in other's hands if it isn't right.
> Don't worry. Pens like this one, that are usable but not right; they don't go in the trash. They go in my truck for me to use myself. I said I wouldn't allow things like this leave in other people's hands. I didn't say I wouldn't use it.
> Anyway, I decided to just back up and turn a basic pen instead of trying anything fancy or different. Of course, since doing all the different styles I have now done, I don't do just simple, one wood species pens, unless it has some awesome grain. So I looked through my blanks and picked two woods that I have had good luck with in the past, walnut and maple. I did not try anything crazy here. I simply sliced the walnut down the length at an angle and glued a strip of maple in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It isn't much, but just to do something without problems, like I've had lately, felt good.
> That went well, but then I was thinking of what I wanted to do next. I decided that, while I thinking about it, to mount up between centers a piece of scrap wood and do some practice exercises. Sometimes I think it's good just to practice techniques. Even if you know how to do something, practice will either keep you good, or help you improve it in some way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I liked the way that last pen had turned out, so I wanted to do something else. I thought about more crazy stuff, but settled on doing something similar to the last pen. Just keep it simple. Sometimes simple seems more elegant than the craziest of designs.
> This blank is walnut and box elder. Since the box elder is bent pretty good while being pressed between the two pieces of walnut, I thought it would be a good idea to leave this blank overnight. It may self destruct on it's own if I unclamp it too soon. I took it out of the voce, snapped a photo, and put it right back in to leave till tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a piece of pipe a good friend gave me a while back to try turning. It looks like PVC, but has a more rubbery feel to it. I think it will make a neat pen if I can turn it without any issues.
> I had tried a small piece of it before, unsuccessfully. I thought I'd give it another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the two blanks glued up. I'm leaving them overnight too. The last time I tried turning this, the tube let go in one of the blanks. I always scuff up the tubes before gluing them, but I think the type of material here may have had something to do with it. I'm hoping the extra curing time will help the situation.
> So that's two blanks for tomorrow, hopefully. We'll have to wait and see how they turn out.


I'm going to watch this close too.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Time To Back Up A Bit*
> 
> Have any of you ever noticed that when things start going wrong, they keep going wrong? For me, once it starts, it keeps going until I just all of a sudden have a victory, or I back it up a bit. Since the failures keep coming, I figured it was time to throw it in reverse.
> What do I mean by that?
> I have a tendency to want to do things that are challenging. Some may argue that I sometimes even push the envelope too much, too quickly, on things. I'm not saying that's a bad thing. I know from experience though that this makes me sometimes need to back it up and get back to the basics of what I'm trying to do.
> The multi wood pen I done a recently is going to a friend of mine. I wanted one for display though and had more blanks I had left over from gluing up all those strips of wood. These blanks look nice, but are a challenge to turn. I was careful about gluing them, but with the grain running all directions, it's almost like turning burl. No matter what angle of attack you use with your sharpest gouge, there is tear out if you are not careful and all the luck is there, and the stars align perfectly, and all that jazz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the second pen I tried turning today. The first one literally blew apart on the lathe. This one, although you can't tell it by the picture, is a reject as well. I kept having to sand the front end of the pen more and more as pieces kept blowing off. This wound up making the front end just short enough that I had a hard time judging how far to press the advance mechanism in. As my recent luck would have it, I ended up pressing it just a tad too far. With the pen retracted all the way, you can hold the pen perfectly vertical and write with it. The end of the ink cartridge is right there at the tip. I refuse to put something like this in my display. Those of you who know me know that I don't allow things to leave my shop in other's hands if it isn't right.
> Don't worry. Pens like this one, that are usable but not right; they don't go in the trash. They go in my truck for me to use myself. I said I wouldn't allow things like this leave in other people's hands. I didn't say I wouldn't use it.
> Anyway, I decided to just back up and turn a basic pen instead of trying anything fancy or different. Of course, since doing all the different styles I have now done, I don't do just simple, one wood species pens, unless it has some awesome grain. So I looked through my blanks and picked two woods that I have had good luck with in the past, walnut and maple. I did not try anything crazy here. I simply sliced the walnut down the length at an angle and glued a strip of maple in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It isn't much, but just to do something without problems, like I've had lately, felt good.
> That went well, but then I was thinking of what I wanted to do next. I decided that, while I thinking about it, to mount up between centers a piece of scrap wood and do some practice exercises. Sometimes I think it's good just to practice techniques. Even if you know how to do something, practice will either keep you good, or help you improve it in some way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I liked the way that last pen had turned out, so I wanted to do something else. I thought about more crazy stuff, but settled on doing something similar to the last pen. Just keep it simple. Sometimes simple seems more elegant than the craziest of designs.
> This blank is walnut and box elder. Since the box elder is bent pretty good while being pressed between the two pieces of walnut, I thought it would be a good idea to leave this blank overnight. It may self destruct on it's own if I unclamp it too soon. I took it out of the voce, snapped a photo, and put it right back in to leave till tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a piece of pipe a good friend gave me a while back to try turning. It looks like PVC, but has a more rubbery feel to it. I think it will make a neat pen if I can turn it without any issues.
> I had tried a small piece of it before, unsuccessfully. I thought I'd give it another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the two blanks glued up. I'm leaving them overnight too. The last time I tried turning this, the tube let go in one of the blanks. I always scuff up the tubes before gluing them, but I think the type of material here may have had something to do with it. I'm hoping the extra curing time will help the situation.
> So that's two blanks for tomorrow, hopefully. We'll have to wait and see how they turn out.


That walnut with the maple stripe is one of my favorites!

Not too sure about that black plastic pipe though. But that's why they make Fords and Chevys .


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Time To Back Up A Bit*
> 
> Have any of you ever noticed that when things start going wrong, they keep going wrong? For me, once it starts, it keeps going until I just all of a sudden have a victory, or I back it up a bit. Since the failures keep coming, I figured it was time to throw it in reverse.
> What do I mean by that?
> I have a tendency to want to do things that are challenging. Some may argue that I sometimes even push the envelope too much, too quickly, on things. I'm not saying that's a bad thing. I know from experience though that this makes me sometimes need to back it up and get back to the basics of what I'm trying to do.
> The multi wood pen I done a recently is going to a friend of mine. I wanted one for display though and had more blanks I had left over from gluing up all those strips of wood. These blanks look nice, but are a challenge to turn. I was careful about gluing them, but with the grain running all directions, it's almost like turning burl. No matter what angle of attack you use with your sharpest gouge, there is tear out if you are not careful and all the luck is there, and the stars align perfectly, and all that jazz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the second pen I tried turning today. The first one literally blew apart on the lathe. This one, although you can't tell it by the picture, is a reject as well. I kept having to sand the front end of the pen more and more as pieces kept blowing off. This wound up making the front end just short enough that I had a hard time judging how far to press the advance mechanism in. As my recent luck would have it, I ended up pressing it just a tad too far. With the pen retracted all the way, you can hold the pen perfectly vertical and write with it. The end of the ink cartridge is right there at the tip. I refuse to put something like this in my display. Those of you who know me know that I don't allow things to leave my shop in other's hands if it isn't right.
> Don't worry. Pens like this one, that are usable but not right; they don't go in the trash. They go in my truck for me to use myself. I said I wouldn't allow things like this leave in other people's hands. I didn't say I wouldn't use it.
> Anyway, I decided to just back up and turn a basic pen instead of trying anything fancy or different. Of course, since doing all the different styles I have now done, I don't do just simple, one wood species pens, unless it has some awesome grain. So I looked through my blanks and picked two woods that I have had good luck with in the past, walnut and maple. I did not try anything crazy here. I simply sliced the walnut down the length at an angle and glued a strip of maple in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It isn't much, but just to do something without problems, like I've had lately, felt good.
> That went well, but then I was thinking of what I wanted to do next. I decided that, while I thinking about it, to mount up between centers a piece of scrap wood and do some practice exercises. Sometimes I think it's good just to practice techniques. Even if you know how to do something, practice will either keep you good, or help you improve it in some way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I liked the way that last pen had turned out, so I wanted to do something else. I thought about more crazy stuff, but settled on doing something similar to the last pen. Just keep it simple. Sometimes simple seems more elegant than the craziest of designs.
> This blank is walnut and box elder. Since the box elder is bent pretty good while being pressed between the two pieces of walnut, I thought it would be a good idea to leave this blank overnight. It may self destruct on it's own if I unclamp it too soon. I took it out of the voce, snapped a photo, and put it right back in to leave till tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a piece of pipe a good friend gave me a while back to try turning. It looks like PVC, but has a more rubbery feel to it. I think it will make a neat pen if I can turn it without any issues.
> I had tried a small piece of it before, unsuccessfully. I thought I'd give it another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the two blanks glued up. I'm leaving them overnight too. The last time I tried turning this, the tube let go in one of the blanks. I always scuff up the tubes before gluing them, but I think the type of material here may have had something to do with it. I'm hoping the extra curing time will help the situation.
> So that's two blanks for tomorrow, hopefully. We'll have to wait and see how they turn out.


well i wondered where you were and what you were doing, i dont think you will be able to make a pen out of them fishes…although the scales might look cool…just insert the think in the lathe with its mouth open and the other end, well i think you can guess, gently put the tail vice in the other end…and turn at a medium speed..i will wait for the results…and then i will move to make sure im safe from the terror of the wild man from Mississippi,..lol…well maybe you should not try the fish thing…hey its a wild and crazy idea, maybe i should think of the wild and crazy things you could do and email that list to you…but you will have to guarantee that you choose to do them, i would not be the blame…lol..ok im done…hey someone has to give you a hard time, as i know nobody probably does…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Time To Back Up A Bit*
> 
> Have any of you ever noticed that when things start going wrong, they keep going wrong? For me, once it starts, it keeps going until I just all of a sudden have a victory, or I back it up a bit. Since the failures keep coming, I figured it was time to throw it in reverse.
> What do I mean by that?
> I have a tendency to want to do things that are challenging. Some may argue that I sometimes even push the envelope too much, too quickly, on things. I'm not saying that's a bad thing. I know from experience though that this makes me sometimes need to back it up and get back to the basics of what I'm trying to do.
> The multi wood pen I done a recently is going to a friend of mine. I wanted one for display though and had more blanks I had left over from gluing up all those strips of wood. These blanks look nice, but are a challenge to turn. I was careful about gluing them, but with the grain running all directions, it's almost like turning burl. No matter what angle of attack you use with your sharpest gouge, there is tear out if you are not careful and all the luck is there, and the stars align perfectly, and all that jazz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the second pen I tried turning today. The first one literally blew apart on the lathe. This one, although you can't tell it by the picture, is a reject as well. I kept having to sand the front end of the pen more and more as pieces kept blowing off. This wound up making the front end just short enough that I had a hard time judging how far to press the advance mechanism in. As my recent luck would have it, I ended up pressing it just a tad too far. With the pen retracted all the way, you can hold the pen perfectly vertical and write with it. The end of the ink cartridge is right there at the tip. I refuse to put something like this in my display. Those of you who know me know that I don't allow things to leave my shop in other's hands if it isn't right.
> Don't worry. Pens like this one, that are usable but not right; they don't go in the trash. They go in my truck for me to use myself. I said I wouldn't allow things like this leave in other people's hands. I didn't say I wouldn't use it.
> Anyway, I decided to just back up and turn a basic pen instead of trying anything fancy or different. Of course, since doing all the different styles I have now done, I don't do just simple, one wood species pens, unless it has some awesome grain. So I looked through my blanks and picked two woods that I have had good luck with in the past, walnut and maple. I did not try anything crazy here. I simply sliced the walnut down the length at an angle and glued a strip of maple in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It isn't much, but just to do something without problems, like I've had lately, felt good.
> That went well, but then I was thinking of what I wanted to do next. I decided that, while I thinking about it, to mount up between centers a piece of scrap wood and do some practice exercises. Sometimes I think it's good just to practice techniques. Even if you know how to do something, practice will either keep you good, or help you improve it in some way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I liked the way that last pen had turned out, so I wanted to do something else. I thought about more crazy stuff, but settled on doing something similar to the last pen. Just keep it simple. Sometimes simple seems more elegant than the craziest of designs.
> This blank is walnut and box elder. Since the box elder is bent pretty good while being pressed between the two pieces of walnut, I thought it would be a good idea to leave this blank overnight. It may self destruct on it's own if I unclamp it too soon. I took it out of the voce, snapped a photo, and put it right back in to leave till tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a piece of pipe a good friend gave me a while back to try turning. It looks like PVC, but has a more rubbery feel to it. I think it will make a neat pen if I can turn it without any issues.
> I had tried a small piece of it before, unsuccessfully. I thought I'd give it another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the two blanks glued up. I'm leaving them overnight too. The last time I tried turning this, the tube let go in one of the blanks. I always scuff up the tubes before gluing them, but I think the type of material here may have had something to do with it. I'm hoping the extra curing time will help the situation.
> So that's two blanks for tomorrow, hopefully. We'll have to wait and see how they turn out.


Thanks Chips. And thanks for the black pipe. Oh, did I forget to mention that to everyone? Chips is the one who gave me the pipe.

Andy, I'm glad you like the pen. Wait till tomorrow. I think the one I have clamped up will be an interesting one as well. The curve on a square blank always makes for an interesting look on the finished round pen. We'll see.

Grizz, you forget that I am the father of eight kids. Giving me a hard time isn't easy. If your list consists of turning things like fish though, you'll be close. Just wait though. The waters haven't started going down at Steele Bayou yet. When they do, the spoonbill will be running. I'll be sure to post a photo just for you if I catch one of those monsters this year.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Time To Back Up A Bit*
> 
> Have any of you ever noticed that when things start going wrong, they keep going wrong? For me, once it starts, it keeps going until I just all of a sudden have a victory, or I back it up a bit. Since the failures keep coming, I figured it was time to throw it in reverse.
> What do I mean by that?
> I have a tendency to want to do things that are challenging. Some may argue that I sometimes even push the envelope too much, too quickly, on things. I'm not saying that's a bad thing. I know from experience though that this makes me sometimes need to back it up and get back to the basics of what I'm trying to do.
> The multi wood pen I done a recently is going to a friend of mine. I wanted one for display though and had more blanks I had left over from gluing up all those strips of wood. These blanks look nice, but are a challenge to turn. I was careful about gluing them, but with the grain running all directions, it's almost like turning burl. No matter what angle of attack you use with your sharpest gouge, there is tear out if you are not careful and all the luck is there, and the stars align perfectly, and all that jazz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the second pen I tried turning today. The first one literally blew apart on the lathe. This one, although you can't tell it by the picture, is a reject as well. I kept having to sand the front end of the pen more and more as pieces kept blowing off. This wound up making the front end just short enough that I had a hard time judging how far to press the advance mechanism in. As my recent luck would have it, I ended up pressing it just a tad too far. With the pen retracted all the way, you can hold the pen perfectly vertical and write with it. The end of the ink cartridge is right there at the tip. I refuse to put something like this in my display. Those of you who know me know that I don't allow things to leave my shop in other's hands if it isn't right.
> Don't worry. Pens like this one, that are usable but not right; they don't go in the trash. They go in my truck for me to use myself. I said I wouldn't allow things like this leave in other people's hands. I didn't say I wouldn't use it.
> Anyway, I decided to just back up and turn a basic pen instead of trying anything fancy or different. Of course, since doing all the different styles I have now done, I don't do just simple, one wood species pens, unless it has some awesome grain. So I looked through my blanks and picked two woods that I have had good luck with in the past, walnut and maple. I did not try anything crazy here. I simply sliced the walnut down the length at an angle and glued a strip of maple in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It isn't much, but just to do something without problems, like I've had lately, felt good.
> That went well, but then I was thinking of what I wanted to do next. I decided that, while I thinking about it, to mount up between centers a piece of scrap wood and do some practice exercises. Sometimes I think it's good just to practice techniques. Even if you know how to do something, practice will either keep you good, or help you improve it in some way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I liked the way that last pen had turned out, so I wanted to do something else. I thought about more crazy stuff, but settled on doing something similar to the last pen. Just keep it simple. Sometimes simple seems more elegant than the craziest of designs.
> This blank is walnut and box elder. Since the box elder is bent pretty good while being pressed between the two pieces of walnut, I thought it would be a good idea to leave this blank overnight. It may self destruct on it's own if I unclamp it too soon. I took it out of the voce, snapped a photo, and put it right back in to leave till tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a piece of pipe a good friend gave me a while back to try turning. It looks like PVC, but has a more rubbery feel to it. I think it will make a neat pen if I can turn it without any issues.
> I had tried a small piece of it before, unsuccessfully. I thought I'd give it another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the two blanks glued up. I'm leaving them overnight too. The last time I tried turning this, the tube let go in one of the blanks. I always scuff up the tubes before gluing them, but I think the type of material here may have had something to do with it. I'm hoping the extra curing time will help the situation.
> So that's two blanks for tomorrow, hopefully. We'll have to wait and see how they turn out.


William I really like the Maple/Walnut pen. I really do have to try a few things like that. What glue do you use to put those together with?

Some basics is always a good thing once in a while. We sometimes seem to get too busy and forget where we are heading. Look forward to seeing tomorrow's turnings. Hope you can make it into the shop.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Time To Back Up A Bit*
> 
> Have any of you ever noticed that when things start going wrong, they keep going wrong? For me, once it starts, it keeps going until I just all of a sudden have a victory, or I back it up a bit. Since the failures keep coming, I figured it was time to throw it in reverse.
> What do I mean by that?
> I have a tendency to want to do things that are challenging. Some may argue that I sometimes even push the envelope too much, too quickly, on things. I'm not saying that's a bad thing. I know from experience though that this makes me sometimes need to back it up and get back to the basics of what I'm trying to do.
> The multi wood pen I done a recently is going to a friend of mine. I wanted one for display though and had more blanks I had left over from gluing up all those strips of wood. These blanks look nice, but are a challenge to turn. I was careful about gluing them, but with the grain running all directions, it's almost like turning burl. No matter what angle of attack you use with your sharpest gouge, there is tear out if you are not careful and all the luck is there, and the stars align perfectly, and all that jazz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the second pen I tried turning today. The first one literally blew apart on the lathe. This one, although you can't tell it by the picture, is a reject as well. I kept having to sand the front end of the pen more and more as pieces kept blowing off. This wound up making the front end just short enough that I had a hard time judging how far to press the advance mechanism in. As my recent luck would have it, I ended up pressing it just a tad too far. With the pen retracted all the way, you can hold the pen perfectly vertical and write with it. The end of the ink cartridge is right there at the tip. I refuse to put something like this in my display. Those of you who know me know that I don't allow things to leave my shop in other's hands if it isn't right.
> Don't worry. Pens like this one, that are usable but not right; they don't go in the trash. They go in my truck for me to use myself. I said I wouldn't allow things like this leave in other people's hands. I didn't say I wouldn't use it.
> Anyway, I decided to just back up and turn a basic pen instead of trying anything fancy or different. Of course, since doing all the different styles I have now done, I don't do just simple, one wood species pens, unless it has some awesome grain. So I looked through my blanks and picked two woods that I have had good luck with in the past, walnut and maple. I did not try anything crazy here. I simply sliced the walnut down the length at an angle and glued a strip of maple in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It isn't much, but just to do something without problems, like I've had lately, felt good.
> That went well, but then I was thinking of what I wanted to do next. I decided that, while I thinking about it, to mount up between centers a piece of scrap wood and do some practice exercises. Sometimes I think it's good just to practice techniques. Even if you know how to do something, practice will either keep you good, or help you improve it in some way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I liked the way that last pen had turned out, so I wanted to do something else. I thought about more crazy stuff, but settled on doing something similar to the last pen. Just keep it simple. Sometimes simple seems more elegant than the craziest of designs.
> This blank is walnut and box elder. Since the box elder is bent pretty good while being pressed between the two pieces of walnut, I thought it would be a good idea to leave this blank overnight. It may self destruct on it's own if I unclamp it too soon. I took it out of the voce, snapped a photo, and put it right back in to leave till tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a piece of pipe a good friend gave me a while back to try turning. It looks like PVC, but has a more rubbery feel to it. I think it will make a neat pen if I can turn it without any issues.
> I had tried a small piece of it before, unsuccessfully. I thought I'd give it another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the two blanks glued up. I'm leaving them overnight too. The last time I tried turning this, the tube let go in one of the blanks. I always scuff up the tubes before gluing them, but I think the type of material here may have had something to do with it. I'm hoping the extra curing time will help the situation.
> So that's two blanks for tomorrow, hopefully. We'll have to wait and see how they turn out.


Chris, I use CA glue to glue this one. 
I use different glues though dependong on what I'm doing with pen blanks. For flat surfaces that I don't mind waiting till the next day on, I'll sometimes use tightbond. For most things, I use CA glue simply because it's quicker. If I want an instant bond, accelerator helps out, but I have found that on something like this with pressure, the accelerator speed up cure time, but makes the bond too brittle. 
If I'm gluing something that I need gap filling but won't have much pressure to it, and don't mind waiting overnight, I'll sometimes use Gorilla White Glue. It's a poly-something (can't remember) glue. 
As for the CA glue. I use medium for glue ups like this. It is a strong bond and gives me a little more open time to get things clamped up. I use thin if I'm need to fill small cracks and also for my finishes. I use thick for gluing in the tubes into blanks. 
All that being said, nothing is set in stone. I experiment with different glues on a neverending basis.

Ok, I just realized I really started rambling there. For this particular glueup, on both the walnut pens (the one I turned today and the one I have clamped up for tomorrow) I used medium CA glue.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Time To Back Up A Bit*
> 
> Have any of you ever noticed that when things start going wrong, they keep going wrong? For me, once it starts, it keeps going until I just all of a sudden have a victory, or I back it up a bit. Since the failures keep coming, I figured it was time to throw it in reverse.
> What do I mean by that?
> I have a tendency to want to do things that are challenging. Some may argue that I sometimes even push the envelope too much, too quickly, on things. I'm not saying that's a bad thing. I know from experience though that this makes me sometimes need to back it up and get back to the basics of what I'm trying to do.
> The multi wood pen I done a recently is going to a friend of mine. I wanted one for display though and had more blanks I had left over from gluing up all those strips of wood. These blanks look nice, but are a challenge to turn. I was careful about gluing them, but with the grain running all directions, it's almost like turning burl. No matter what angle of attack you use with your sharpest gouge, there is tear out if you are not careful and all the luck is there, and the stars align perfectly, and all that jazz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the second pen I tried turning today. The first one literally blew apart on the lathe. This one, although you can't tell it by the picture, is a reject as well. I kept having to sand the front end of the pen more and more as pieces kept blowing off. This wound up making the front end just short enough that I had a hard time judging how far to press the advance mechanism in. As my recent luck would have it, I ended up pressing it just a tad too far. With the pen retracted all the way, you can hold the pen perfectly vertical and write with it. The end of the ink cartridge is right there at the tip. I refuse to put something like this in my display. Those of you who know me know that I don't allow things to leave my shop in other's hands if it isn't right.
> Don't worry. Pens like this one, that are usable but not right; they don't go in the trash. They go in my truck for me to use myself. I said I wouldn't allow things like this leave in other people's hands. I didn't say I wouldn't use it.
> Anyway, I decided to just back up and turn a basic pen instead of trying anything fancy or different. Of course, since doing all the different styles I have now done, I don't do just simple, one wood species pens, unless it has some awesome grain. So I looked through my blanks and picked two woods that I have had good luck with in the past, walnut and maple. I did not try anything crazy here. I simply sliced the walnut down the length at an angle and glued a strip of maple in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It isn't much, but just to do something without problems, like I've had lately, felt good.
> That went well, but then I was thinking of what I wanted to do next. I decided that, while I thinking about it, to mount up between centers a piece of scrap wood and do some practice exercises. Sometimes I think it's good just to practice techniques. Even if you know how to do something, practice will either keep you good, or help you improve it in some way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I liked the way that last pen had turned out, so I wanted to do something else. I thought about more crazy stuff, but settled on doing something similar to the last pen. Just keep it simple. Sometimes simple seems more elegant than the craziest of designs.
> This blank is walnut and box elder. Since the box elder is bent pretty good while being pressed between the two pieces of walnut, I thought it would be a good idea to leave this blank overnight. It may self destruct on it's own if I unclamp it too soon. I took it out of the voce, snapped a photo, and put it right back in to leave till tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a piece of pipe a good friend gave me a while back to try turning. It looks like PVC, but has a more rubbery feel to it. I think it will make a neat pen if I can turn it without any issues.
> I had tried a small piece of it before, unsuccessfully. I thought I'd give it another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the two blanks glued up. I'm leaving them overnight too. The last time I tried turning this, the tube let go in one of the blanks. I always scuff up the tubes before gluing them, but I think the type of material here may have had something to do with it. I'm hoping the extra curing time will help the situation.
> So that's two blanks for tomorrow, hopefully. We'll have to wait and see how they turn out.


William, Thanks for the info.. all of it. 
I use very little CA as I am in a basement shop and hate the smell of it. For this though I think I will try some. I use the Gorilla Glue to glue in my blanks. Someone in a course mentioned and the fact thatit expands it can fill in stuff inside the blanks. 
Have an experiment going on with Epoxy I will be posting soon. 
CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Time To Back Up A Bit*
> 
> Have any of you ever noticed that when things start going wrong, they keep going wrong? For me, once it starts, it keeps going until I just all of a sudden have a victory, or I back it up a bit. Since the failures keep coming, I figured it was time to throw it in reverse.
> What do I mean by that?
> I have a tendency to want to do things that are challenging. Some may argue that I sometimes even push the envelope too much, too quickly, on things. I'm not saying that's a bad thing. I know from experience though that this makes me sometimes need to back it up and get back to the basics of what I'm trying to do.
> The multi wood pen I done a recently is going to a friend of mine. I wanted one for display though and had more blanks I had left over from gluing up all those strips of wood. These blanks look nice, but are a challenge to turn. I was careful about gluing them, but with the grain running all directions, it's almost like turning burl. No matter what angle of attack you use with your sharpest gouge, there is tear out if you are not careful and all the luck is there, and the stars align perfectly, and all that jazz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the second pen I tried turning today. The first one literally blew apart on the lathe. This one, although you can't tell it by the picture, is a reject as well. I kept having to sand the front end of the pen more and more as pieces kept blowing off. This wound up making the front end just short enough that I had a hard time judging how far to press the advance mechanism in. As my recent luck would have it, I ended up pressing it just a tad too far. With the pen retracted all the way, you can hold the pen perfectly vertical and write with it. The end of the ink cartridge is right there at the tip. I refuse to put something like this in my display. Those of you who know me know that I don't allow things to leave my shop in other's hands if it isn't right.
> Don't worry. Pens like this one, that are usable but not right; they don't go in the trash. They go in my truck for me to use myself. I said I wouldn't allow things like this leave in other people's hands. I didn't say I wouldn't use it.
> Anyway, I decided to just back up and turn a basic pen instead of trying anything fancy or different. Of course, since doing all the different styles I have now done, I don't do just simple, one wood species pens, unless it has some awesome grain. So I looked through my blanks and picked two woods that I have had good luck with in the past, walnut and maple. I did not try anything crazy here. I simply sliced the walnut down the length at an angle and glued a strip of maple in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It isn't much, but just to do something without problems, like I've had lately, felt good.
> That went well, but then I was thinking of what I wanted to do next. I decided that, while I thinking about it, to mount up between centers a piece of scrap wood and do some practice exercises. Sometimes I think it's good just to practice techniques. Even if you know how to do something, practice will either keep you good, or help you improve it in some way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I liked the way that last pen had turned out, so I wanted to do something else. I thought about more crazy stuff, but settled on doing something similar to the last pen. Just keep it simple. Sometimes simple seems more elegant than the craziest of designs.
> This blank is walnut and box elder. Since the box elder is bent pretty good while being pressed between the two pieces of walnut, I thought it would be a good idea to leave this blank overnight. It may self destruct on it's own if I unclamp it too soon. I took it out of the voce, snapped a photo, and put it right back in to leave till tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a piece of pipe a good friend gave me a while back to try turning. It looks like PVC, but has a more rubbery feel to it. I think it will make a neat pen if I can turn it without any issues.
> I had tried a small piece of it before, unsuccessfully. I thought I'd give it another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the two blanks glued up. I'm leaving them overnight too. The last time I tried turning this, the tube let go in one of the blanks. I always scuff up the tubes before gluing them, but I think the type of material here may have had something to do with it. I'm hoping the extra curing time will help the situation.
> So that's two blanks for tomorrow, hopefully. We'll have to wait and see how they turn out.


I don't care for epoxy. I can't really give a reason besides I just don't like it.

Now, as for Gorilla glue. Have you tried the white stuff? It is clear, acts just like regular gorilla glue, and dries white. It is great.
If I was more patient, I would use CA glue for only finishing. The only reason I see a need for it for my other work is that I want the glue set in a hurry. If I am gluing up something that I know, before I start gluing, will be left overnight, I forego the CA glue and use wood glue if it is wood to wood, and gorilla glue for everything else.

I would still use CA glue for the finish though. Since I finally got the hang of applying that correctly, I have yet to find or see a better finish for pens. I have also used CA glue on a few tool handles and it is more durable than anything I've ever tried before for that purpose.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Not My Best Day*

If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
















I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft. 
I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft. 
Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools. 
The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
















Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
Then I started pressing everything together.
Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point. 
So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant. 
It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen. 
Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it. 
So my beautiful pen was ruined. 
What to do?








Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.








I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time. 
Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Not My Best Day*
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
> Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft.
> I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
> Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft.
> Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools.
> The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
> Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
> I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
> Then I started pressing everything together.
> Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point.
> So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant.
> It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen.
> Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it.
> So my beautiful pen was ruined.
> What to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time.
> Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


What's up with the triple post? I heard ya the first time!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Not My Best Day*
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
> Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft.
> I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
> Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft.
> Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools.
> The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
> Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
> I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
> Then I started pressing everything together.
> Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point.
> So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant.
> It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen.
> Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it.
> So my beautiful pen was ruined.
> What to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time.
> Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


I am sorry Andy.
Since other sites seem to be working fine, I'm assuming it's Lumberjocks.
I kept getting an error message each time I tried posting this.
Apparantly though, it did post, all three times I tried.

Then it would not let me delete them.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Not My Best Day*
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
> Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft.
> I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
> Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft.
> Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools.
> The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
> Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
> I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
> Then I started pressing everything together.
> Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point.
> So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant.
> It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen.
> Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it.
> So my beautiful pen was ruined.
> What to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time.
> Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


This feels like Deja vu….

Perseverance, one of the many words to describe your character!!!
(I'm trying hard to only think of the good words!) ;^)

Bummer on the freezing trial, but ya done "got 'er done"….
It's a shame that the walnut and box elder blank turned out to only be a "practice run"….
I really liked the way that was looking! Here's to round two!!!


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Not My Best Day*
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
> Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft.
> I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
> Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft.
> Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools.
> The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
> Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
> I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
> Then I started pressing everything together.
> Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point.
> So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant.
> It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen.
> Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it.
> So my beautiful pen was ruined.
> What to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time.
> Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


William, Bummer on the Walnut Box Elder Pen. It looks like it did turn out really nice if that is it in the above pics. Just a thought, this is where having a few miscellaneous 7mm kits come in handy. I have gotten to one pont or another and something killed one of the blanks I was working with. I salvaged the other half though if possible to make something else. Keychain, magnifier, etc..

The pipe pen looks interesting great job on the challenge.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Not My Best Day*
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
> Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft.
> I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
> Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft.
> Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools.
> The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
> Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
> I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
> Then I started pressing everything together.
> Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point.
> So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant.
> It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen.
> Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it.
> So my beautiful pen was ruined.
> What to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time.
> Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


Thanks guys.

Randy, I think I forgot to metion that part. If you're not willing to learn from trial and error, don't attempt pen turning. Mistakes happen and the only thing you can do is scrap your work up till that point and go again. Don't worry though, wait till I post today's blog entry. I think you'll be pleased.

Chris, I am able to save half of a pen at times. For this particular pen though, the blanks are sort of a set. So I couldn't see saving it for anything. In cases like this though, since it is scrap anyway, I did go ahead and punch out the nib, clip, and cap. I have a small plastic box with compartments where I keep spare parts. That spare parts container has saved my butt a few times.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Not My Best Day*

If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
















I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft. 
I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft. 
Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools. 
The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
















Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
Then I started pressing everything together.
Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point. 
So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant. 
It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen. 
Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it. 
So my beautiful pen was ruined. 
What to do?








Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.








I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time. 
Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Not My Best Day*
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
> Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft.
> I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
> Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft.
> Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools.
> The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
> Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
> I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
> Then I started pressing everything together.
> Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point.
> So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant.
> It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen.
> Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it.
> So my beautiful pen was ruined.
> What to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time.
> Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


This feels like Deja Vu, all over again….

Perseverance, one of the many words to describe your character!!!
(I'm trying hard to only think of the good words!) ;^)

Bummer on the freezing trial, but ya done "got 'er done"….
It's a shame that the walnut and box elder blank turned out to only be a "practice run"….
I really liked the way that was looking! Here's to round two!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Not My Best Day*
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
> Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft.
> I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
> Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft.
> Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools.
> The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
> Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
> I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
> Then I started pressing everything together.
> Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point.
> So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant.
> It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen.
> Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it.
> So my beautiful pen was ruined.
> What to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time.
> Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


I'm sorry for the triple post Randy.
I answered this on one of the other duplicates.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Not My Best Day*

If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
















I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft. 
I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft. 
Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools. 
The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
















Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
Then I started pressing everything together.
Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point. 
So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant. 
It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen. 
Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it. 
So my beautiful pen was ruined. 
What to do?








Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.








I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time. 
Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Not My Best Day*
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
> Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft.
> I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
> Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft.
> Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools.
> The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
> Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
> I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
> Then I started pressing everything together.
> Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point.
> So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant.
> It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen.
> Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it.
> So my beautiful pen was ruined.
> What to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time.
> Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


I gotta say that the black rubber turned out a lot better than I thought.

Dad to the rescue! Makes you feel needed doesn't it?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Not My Best Day*
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
> Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft.
> I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
> Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft.
> Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools.
> The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
> Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
> I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
> Then I started pressing everything together.
> Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point.
> So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant.
> It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen.
> Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it.
> So my beautiful pen was ruined.
> What to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time.
> Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


It did make me feel needed Andy.
It did not make me feel better about me messing up the pen though.
I didn't give up though. I will try again.

I'm glad the black one turned out better than you thought,
Because it is a lot worse than I thought. 
I'll figure out a better way to do it eventually.


----------



## ssnvet

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Not My Best Day*
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
> Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft.
> I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
> Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft.
> Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools.
> The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
> Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
> I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
> Then I started pressing everything together.
> Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point.
> So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant.
> It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen.
> Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it.
> So my beautiful pen was ruined.
> What to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time.
> Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


Keep at it William,

If it was easy, it wouldn't be any fun


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Not My Best Day*
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
> Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft.
> I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
> Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft.
> Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools.
> The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
> Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
> I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
> Then I started pressing everything together.
> Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point.
> So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant.
> It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen.
> Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it.
> So my beautiful pen was ruined.
> What to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time.
> Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


Perseverance, one of the many words to describe your character!!!
(I'm trying hard to only think of the good words!) ;^)

Bummer on the freezing trial, but ya done "got 'er done"....
It's a shame that the walnut and box elder blank turned out to only be a "practice run"....
I really liked the way that was looking! Here's to round two!!!


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Not My Best Day*
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
> Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft.
> I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
> Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft.
> Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools.
> The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
> Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
> I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
> Then I started pressing everything together.
> Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point.
> So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant.
> It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen.
> Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it.
> So my beautiful pen was ruined.
> What to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time.
> Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


Interesting stuff there William…...can't imagine what you are going to turn next…..I hope the neighbor kids are safe!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Not My Best Day*
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
> Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft.
> I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
> Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft.
> Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools.
> The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
> Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
> I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
> Then I started pressing everything together.
> Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point.
> So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant.
> It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen.
> Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it.
> So my beautiful pen was ruined.
> What to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time.
> Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


I answered Matt and Randy's posts on one of the other duplicates.
I apologize for the triple post. 
The site was acting up last night and I kept getting an error message when trying to submit my blog entry.
I gave up after the third try only to find out later it had accepted all three.
It was too late to delete any of them though.

I don't get your response Jeff.
Are you suggesting I turn some of the neighborhood kids?
Or just some of their bones?


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Not My Best Day*
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, I had left one set of pen blanks curing with the tubes glued in, and another full length blank clamped up in a bench vice. I was anxious this morning to see how they would turn out.
> Let's start with the rubbery black pipe blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did in fact get a pen turned out of this material. I must say it was a challenge. Almost nothing I tried worked on this stuff. It is softer than the corian and peeled off rather easily. It peels off so much, in fact, that I had to stop the lathe often to tear the streamers of black rubbery material from around the mandrel shaft.
> I experimented as I went along because I did not want to get down to the final pen size and run into surprises. I learned right off that you cannot sand this material. Sanding, even with the finest of grits, leaves more scratches than it takes away. Sanding around it with the lathe running and then the length, like I would do for most material, simply leaves a crosshatch pattern. It does nothing to smooth it.
> Next, I tried something a friend (Randy) suggested. I removed the blanks from the lathe and popped them in the freezer for a while. The thought is that the cold will harden the blanks and make them more workable. This presented a new problem. The tubes are metal based. Metal contracts when it is cold. The freezing of the blanks also shrunk the tubes enough that I could not get them on the mandrel shaft.
> Next, I tried different turning tool. Since I was not going to be able to sand this stuff, I needed as fine a finish as I could get straight from the cutting of the tools.
> The gouge left a terrible finish. The scraper simply dug in the softer than wood material. Eventually, I settled on the fact that I was going to have no choice but to turn this entirely with a skew chisel. While this is great practice with a skew, it also proved that I also need a lot more practice to get better than I am now.
> Anyway, with the pen complete, I liked working with this material. It presented a challenge, and I like challenges. The finish is no where near as smooth as I would normally like, but I think that, and knowing what it was originally, adds to the originality of this pen.
> I will revisit this material at a later date. Also, the same friend who gave me this has some other pipe, grey I believe, that I will have to get some of to try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next came the walnut and box elder blank I left clamped in the vice yesterday. I turned it, and it was shaping up to be one of the nicest pens I'd done in a while. I absolutely love the look of these finished blanks.
> Then I started pressing everything together.
> Now let me tell you something about me. I can stop a project at a good stopping point. If for any reason though I ever stop a project in the middle of an important step, something usually goes wrong when I return to it. Therefore, I hate, with a passion, having to stop on anything if I am not at a good common sense stopping point.
> So anyway, with that explained, I was just starting to press the parts together when I got a phone call. My son's truck was broke down on the side of the highway. Ordinarily, that would mean I would finish pressing the parts together and then go help him. However, with a hundred degree heat index, and my son having his pregnant wife who is eight months pregnant with my grandchild in the truck with him, I had to go that very instant.
> It turned out that he had a blown tire. His spare was flat. I drove him around to find a replacement tire while my wife carried his pregnant wife back to our place. With the truck back in commission, I returned to the pen.
> Do you remember what I said about something usually going wrong if I stop on something the way I had to do? The advance mechanism somehow got cocked while being pressed. By the time I realized it, it had bent. I tried straightening it. It made it worse. I tried pulling it back out and using a different one, since it wasn't deep. It broke flush with the pen blanks. I used pliers to remove the nib (I had a replacement) and tried tapping the mechanism out using a punch. The blank slipped in the soft jaws and completely ruined it.
> So my beautiful pen was ruined.
> What to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I glued up another one to try again, of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also left another blank clamped up. This is just another one of my weird ideas. We'll have to see how both of these turn out next time.
> Hopefully, next time will prove to be a better day than today.


Yes….but I hope not.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Walnut And Box Elder*

Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
















It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
















Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.

.

Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
























I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Walnut And Box Elder*
> 
> Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
> I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
> For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


well weather you knew what you were creating or not, these turned out great william, no other words to say , very nice, i like all of them…im starting on a desk for myself, so i will enjoy using pens when needed…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Walnut And Box Elder*
> 
> Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
> I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
> For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


Thanks Grizz. Also, thanks for the walnut blanks. I wouldn't be able to work with this beautiful wlanut if you had not sent me those blanks a while back. Also, I have your other pen ready to be shipped next week. I'll let you know as soon as it's on the way.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Walnut And Box Elder*
> 
> Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
> I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
> For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


I can hardly wait to start experimenting with glue-ups, as you are doing. You are correct, that walnut & box elder do look GREAT together!!! That last pen evokes a feeling of the cosmos, with intersecting "orbits"!!! I really do like the way these pens are turning out!

I should be able to finally get me some "learnin' to turn" time later next week. I got me a C'man variable speed 8" grinder. Now I need the right wheels and some jigs, so as to finally be able to sharpen my turning chisels!!! I'm guessing some wood to turn would be the next logical acquisition!!!

Keep up the "great experiment", err work!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Walnut And Box Elder*
> 
> Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
> I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
> For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


Thanks Randy.
Any grinder will work really. I started out sharpenind my tools on a much too course wheel on a high speed grinder. I now have the same grinder, but a finer wheel. The only difference I can see between the wheels is the rate at which they'll wear down your tools. Just take your time, keep the metal cool while sharpening, and learn how to do it right. Now that last part takes some time. I am just now getting comfortable with my sharpening techniques. Everything until recently has been strictly experimental. Even when you get good at it, you then have to find an angle you like to sharpen to. I have found that different angles cut differently, and you'll just have to find what works for you. Once you find it, you're set for good.
Well, that set for good part isn't always 100% correct either. I have found that I like a completely different angle for various tools, like spindle gouges, bowl gouges, and scrapers. Sometimes, like with my 1/4" gouge and 1/2" bowl gouges, I like different angles with the same tools, just different sizes. It'll all come to you in time though. Above all, practice, practice, practice.
I can't wait to see some turnings coming from your lathe.

As for the wood, any wood will do to learn. For a long time, I seldom had square scrap wood, as I'd turn it all round practicing.


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Walnut And Box Elder*
> 
> Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
> I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
> For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


Love the design on that last one, William!!


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Walnut And Box Elder*
> 
> Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
> I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
> For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


William….the pens look great….love the freestyle stuff…..cut, glue and see what happens!.......nice.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Walnut And Box Elder*
> 
> Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
> I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
> For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


Thanks Lew.
Jeff, that's one of the joys, to me, about pen turning. No matter how you glue up blanks, planned or unplanned, you never know how they will turn out. Each one is like unwrapping a present with many layers.

You can imagine, after you've done enough, the general way a pen will look when gluing up the square blanks. Then you place it on the lathe and start turning. Different things effect it in different ways at that point. The close an angle is to ninety degree, the straighter the line is across the pen. As you change that angle though, the move sweep you get to the line. Once you reach a certain point in that sweep, you also get broadening in width, but narrowing of how far it goes around the circumfrance. 
Now, all that is what changes as you turn it square to round. Then you make even further changes by narrowing one end of a blank and not the other. This can make the same sweep look one way on one end of the blank, but completely different towards the other end. As a matter of fact, that sweep can disappear altogether if you turn enough away to go through your contrast material and back into your primary material.

I hope all that makes sense. If not, go back to my original statement. Turning a pen is like unwrapping a present a layer at a time.


----------



## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Walnut And Box Elder*
> 
> Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
> I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
> For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


Nice pens William. I worked with walnut for the first time on the drawer fronts for my workbench. Really liked it, and am keeping my eyes peeled for some more.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Walnut And Box Elder*
> 
> Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
> I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
> For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


It is a beautiful wood and easy to work with. I like it. I only wish I had enough of it to make more than just pens with. I'm happy with what I do have though.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Walnut And Box Elder*
> 
> Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
> I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
> For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


William, They all turned out really nice looking. Been taking a little time before getting started on craft show projects to experiment on a few things myself. I do though need to experiment with a bit of this.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Walnut And Box Elder*
> 
> Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
> I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
> For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


Each experiment turns out to be something interesting Chris. Even the ones that turn out completely different than I think they will still look interesting. Give it a shot and just start gluing up material. I bet that even pens you find ugly that other people like. Some of the pens I have found just weird looking, others really seemed to think highly of them.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Walnut And Box Elder*
> 
> Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
> I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
> For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


Lookin good William.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Walnut And Box Elder*
> 
> Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
> I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
> For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


Thank you Roger.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Walnut And Box Elder*
> 
> Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
> I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
> For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


Beautiful pens William!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Walnut And Box Elder*
> 
> Today's is not a very long post. The title pretty much explains it all. I have somehow gotten on a walnut and box elder habit. I don't know why besides I like it. In my opinion, it is a beautiful combination of woods for some of my experimentation.
> I've always loved walnut. However, before a friend of mine in Alabama (Grizz) sent me a few walnut pen blanks, I'd never had the chance to work with it as much as I have lately. The box elder came from a friend who lives in Indiana (Marty). The two woods together create a very nice contrast.
> For my first pen today, some of my friends expressed like for the wavy patterned pen I attempted yesterday. So I tried it first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It did not turn out exactly like the one I tried yesterday. No two pens are ever exactly alike. When you glue in strips like in this pen, you never know exactly how they'll turn out until you turn it. I still think it is a nice pen though. I think I'll play with this style some more in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, if you seen the other blank I had clamped up in the vice when I finished yesterday, was a piece of walnut with two strips of elder running across each other at a steep end to end angle.
> 
> .
> 
> Now, after I drilled for and glued in the tubes in these blanks, I needed something to do while waiting for that to dry. So I took some more walnut and box elder and just started messing around. I did not plan on anything with this next pen. I simply started slicing it on the band saw. Then I glued in a strip and let it sit while I turned the first pen. Anytime I had a break, like while waiting on a coat of CA glue to dry for example, I'd slice and glue in another strip. I just wanted to see how it would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think interesting is the best way I could describe how it turned out.


Thank you Mike.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*A Doctor's Pen*

I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen. 
Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen. 
























It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
.
I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material. 
























I used purple heart and box elder. 
I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices. 
I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Doctor's Pen*
> 
> I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen.
> Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
> .
> I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
> The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> I used purple heart and box elder.
> I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices.
> I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


Nice pen William, but that's a bit risky givin' a pen to a man that can write you a bill…..


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## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Doctor's Pen*
> 
> I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen.
> Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
> .
> I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
> The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> I used purple heart and box elder.
> I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices.
> I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


Yes, the "Doctor's Pen" looks quite elegant. Of course, if he is anything like Patch Adams, he may appreciate a "Wild William" pen!!!

Keep up the good work & carry on….


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## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Doctor's Pen*
> 
> I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen.
> Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
> .
> I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
> The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> I used purple heart and box elder.
> I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices.
> I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


Another nice looking batch…....it's too bad that doctors don't actually know how to write….


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## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Doctor's Pen*
> 
> I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen.
> Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
> .
> I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
> The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used purple heart and box elder.
> I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices.
> I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


Good choice on the Dr's pen. The wild one is really cool as well.


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## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Doctor's Pen*
> 
> I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen.
> Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
> .
> I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
> The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used purple heart and box elder.
> I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices.
> I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


Thank you all. 
Actually, this doctor I'm giving this too I think would prefer the pen I have chosen. He's the type that might carry the wild one when not at work, but I wanted something he would use at work, where he's more likely to use it most. 
Speaking of the doctor, he is actually my regular doctor. I have to go tomorrow for blood work results, and I promised him a pen last time I was in. I like this doctor more than my others. He talks to me in plain english with words I can understand. Also, he doesn't beat around the bush. He tells it to me straight. It's getting hard these days to find doctor's like that. My other doctors, I'd have to go to medical school to figure out what the hell they're talking about sometimes.


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## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Doctor's Pen*
> 
> I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen.
> Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
> .
> I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
> The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used purple heart and box elder.
> I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices.
> I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


First class all the way.


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## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Doctor's Pen*
> 
> I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen.
> Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
> .
> I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
> The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used purple heart and box elder.
> I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices.
> I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


Thank you Roger. That means a lot coming from you, as I have seen and appreciate your skills as a pen turner.


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## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Doctor's Pen*
> 
> I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen.
> Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
> .
> I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
> The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> I used purple heart and box elder.
> I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices.
> I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


William i love the wild one , you are Turing out some real beauties


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## nancyann

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Doctor's Pen*
> 
> I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen.
> Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
> .
> I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
> The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used purple heart and box elder.
> I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices.
> I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


The Dr. Will appreciate either pen from you because they are both absolutely beautiful.


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## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Doctor's Pen*
> 
> I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen.
> Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
> .
> I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
> The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used purple heart and box elder.
> I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices.
> I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


William, Both pens look awesome. Nice job on them. 
Hope everything he tells you is good news.

CtL


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## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Doctor's Pen*
> 
> I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen.
> Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
> .
> I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
> The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used purple heart and box elder.
> I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices.
> I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


Nice design on that last one, William.


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## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Doctor's Pen*
> 
> I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen.
> Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
> .
> I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
> The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used purple heart and box elder.
> I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices.
> I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


They are all nice, but I loved the purple heart and box elder best. Great work!


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## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Doctor's Pen*
> 
> I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen.
> Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
> .
> I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
> The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used purple heart and box elder.
> I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices.
> I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


Thank you all very much.
My doctor loved his pen. I did not know it till he told me, but he had gotten a hand made pen years ago when he finished medical school. Somewhere along the way, the pen was lost or taken, and he'd always wished he had another one. As soon as I gave it to him, he stood up, threw the store bought pen he was about to write my prescriptions with in the garbage, and started using the one I gave him.


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## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Doctor's Pen*
> 
> I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen.
> Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
> .
> I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
> The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used purple heart and box elder.
> I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices.
> I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


Great to hear that the Doc liked, err loved the pen!

Glad he wrote a prescription and not a bill for services rendered!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Doctor's Pen*
> 
> I am going tomorrow morning to see a friend who is a doctor. All this week I've had ideas rambling around in my head for a pen design for me to take to him. I had these ideas of this wild design on a pen.
> Then I went into the shop today to actually make the blank, and a thought entered my head as I was getting together material. This man is a doctor. If I make some wild looking pen, he may appreciate it, but it'll more than likely wind up in a desk drawer. A doctor is not going to carry around a pen that is going to catch every one's attention the moment he pulls it out of his pocket. I think a doctor would prefer a more simple, yet elegant pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same walnut and box elder theme I've been working with lately. Instead of all kinds of crazy glued up pieces though, I decided on two simple rings glued in at a thirty degree angle. After completing it, I think this is much more fitting for a doctor than some of my crazier ideas.
> .
> I enjoy making all pens. However, after doing a simple pen, I like to go back to wild.
> The last pen I posted yesterday, with the randomly glued in slices of box elder, seemed to get a good response from all who seen it. I wanted to do that again, but try a different material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used purple heart and box elder.
> I added one more slice than I used on the pen from yesterday. Also, I varied the thickness of those slices.
> I plan on making more pens in this style in the future. I realize there are so many variables to this design that change according to number of slices, thickness of those slices, angles of the slices, and also you could use more than just the two color contrast that I've done so far. The possibilities are endless.


He never writes me a bill Randy.
You can bet the administrative offices always sends me one in about two or three weeks though.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Hooked On Pens*

I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas. 
Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
Pens.
I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often. 
For now though, on with the pens.
























The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.

The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks. 
Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example. 
I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store. 
So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?








Starting at the left:
The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


You are doin a mighty fine job at those pens. You've got it goin on William. Know that you have many, many talents. I'm sure I can speak for many and say, keep on keepin on. Also, my "words-o-wisdom", "Work/Play safe. Keep makin dust"


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


Thank you Roger.
That always means a lot to me coming from someone who's pens I admire myself.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


I love that your "style" pen was my favorite all along! That zebrawood pen is really nice.

Did you see that huge marble machine posted today? Amazing! But not wooden.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


"Pens.
I think I have a problem."

I'm afraid to tell you….
That is probably only one of MANY problems!!! ;^)

I'm most anxious to see pens #2 & #4 turned!!!
I'll be sitting at my keyboard, incessantly hitting the refresh button, awaiting your next blog entry!!!


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


Any results yet???


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


Thanks Andy.
No I did not see the marble machine, but as soon as I'm through typing this I am going to look for it.

Randy, I know I have many problem. Of course, I thought anyone who still reads my blogs already knew that.
Stop hitting refresh now. It'll be at least tomorrow evening before I post anything new. 
Go turn something on your lathe while you wait.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


William, Looks like some real fun experiments. I have one waiting for me when I return to the shop. Looking forward to trying to wrap my head around it.

Also look forward to seeing what those pens you have there turn out like. Will check in on them as soon as I get chance, may be spending much of my day tomorrow driving. Good luck with them and stay safe.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


Thanks Chris. You never know how they'll turn out until you, well, turn them out.
The interesting thing about the layers in pens I have found is, if you take it slow, you can go to varied depths and make different looks. I've also learned to be careful though. It is easy to turn right through a layer and make what is a beautiful look and make it into something that is a real headscratcher.

You said you were trying to wrap your head around one you have waiting on you. Are you talking about something you've already glued up? Or is it just an idea at this point?


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


i cant wait to see how these turn out, especially the celtic knot, also need to tell you the pen arrived today and i have to say its a gem, its almost hard to believe you made it…i know these pen blanks dont grow on trees, and your designs just have so much genius to them, thank you so much william…


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


Great new designs William. I also liked the zebra wood one a lot. I also found *Grizz's* comment that pen blanks don't grow on trees very funny. Have a great day and keep on turning!


----------



## mochoa

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


Wow cool pens!


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


Looking forward to seeing how the purple heart turns out!


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


Hey William - that sideways grain Zebra is very cool…....like it..

The other glue-ups should be interesting….....


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


Thank you all very much.
I'll give you a preview.
Today was a great success.
Three of the pens were successes and the fourth one was not my fault and does make a good shop pen.
You'll have to wait an hour or so for me to finish dinner and type up today's post to find out more.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


I've been hitting the refresh button for 24+ hours now….


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


You can stop hitting refresh Randy. 
Here it is.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


Looks like science experiments. Looking good.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


Thanks Dave.
Good news is, I sold four pens today.
It may not sound like much to some, but is a huge victory for me!


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


*CONGRATULATIONS!!!*

Way to go. There is NO doubt that your pens are marketable , just need to get them in front of the potential customers!!!


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


outstanding


----------



## RichCMD

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


Your posting has really piqued my interest. In truth, when I decided to start wood working my primary intent was to turn pens. I had to postpone jumping into that right off until my budget would bear the initial investment for a lathe and other necessary tools. As a result, I became interested in carving spoons and bowls, which I thought would cost less to get into. I am almost to where I can but the lathe, and I can't wait. I really like your idea of concentrating on making interesting pen blanks rather than on variations in the shape of the pens. Thanks for the inspiration.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Hooked On Pens*
> 
> I had a rough week last week and pretty much done nothing wood work related. For a couple of days now though I have been trying to get a project started. I kept getting sidetracked though. Then I would think about pen blank ideas.
> Anyway, I actually started the larger project. It doesn't make a difference what the project was. It doesn't warrant talking about for the purpose of what my over all problem is. As I was trying to start it though, everything went wrong. I blame it on several factor, the main one being that my mind just was not on it.
> Then I came to a conclusion. This project, I was wanting to do it just to put some time in on a larger project. The particular choice of project though I have done before and have photos to show of it. If someone wants to buy one and put up a deposit, then I'd make it. Otherwise, why am I worrying myself with it? If I have no payment pending project to do, why not just get busy with what my mind was on anyway?
> Pens.
> I think I have a problem. I am hooked on pens, and wood turning in general. I have got to get a larger lathe somehow so I can turn larger things more often.
> For now though, on with the pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first on, I decided to revisit a favorite. I was able to obtain a couple more pieces of the sideways grain zebra wood.
> 
> The zebra wood pen was something I done in between waiting on glue ups to dry. Mostly what I worked on today was some ideas I had for pen blanks.
> Any of you who read my blog regularly may remember a time when I was making wild shaped pens with large bulges and other shapes. Lately I have been sticking to this one style of pen. It is a simple design with no center ring. I like it and it is pretty much what I'll be doing for the foreseeable future unless I'm working with something that I cannot get long enough blanks from, like antler, for example.
> I tried those weird shapes because I had not found what my "style" would be. I like simple lines. I think the bulges take away from the overall beauty of the woods I am trying to showcase. Instead, I have figured out I would rather glue up blanks to accent and show off different patterns and looks using different species of woods. After all, it is the material used that sets them apart from any other pen that can be bought for pennies at the store.
> So what were these blanks that had been on my mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting at the left:
> The one still in the vice is a variation on the wave style I've done before. I've done a couple of them now, but they have been dark woods with light accent strips. For this one, I went the other way with yellow heart for the main wood. For the accent strip, I started with walnut. Then I figured I'd make it more interesting. Instead of one strip, why not sandwich a strip of box elder between two strips of walnut?
> Next is purple heart and box elder. If this turns out on the lathe without issue, this one is going to make me jump for joy. I think I finally have glued up a celtic knot without messing up any of the strips. As far as I can tell, it is perfect. The only way to tell for certain though is, of course, turn it round.
> Next, walnut and box elder. I made some pens lately with the long elliptical rings in it. I got the idea from the first pen I described though to sandwich three strips for the center accents.
> The last pen I really don't know what to say. I'm not sure this one isn't going to simply blow apart when I put the drill bit near it. It is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. It was just one of those wild ideas I had at the last minute and threw it together. If it makes it far enough into the pen making process, we will see how it turns out. Some of my best ideas come from spur of the moment glue ups. Who knows?
> I wanted all these to cure overnight. So hopefully we will see tomorrow how they turn out. I just wanted to post this evening to show you all these few ideas that I'm working on.


Thanks Randy and Dave.

Rich, gluing up interesting pen blanks to me is part of the fun. However, I do encourage anyone to start with solid blanks and get the hang of turning pens well before venturing into making some of the blanks I show. If you don't it can get aggrevating. It is not hard to turn a pen at all, but it can be quite frustrating if your pen turning experience is hurt due to failures in pen blanks, which does happen. 
Add me to your buddy list. PM me when you get started with your pen turning so I can keep up. When I see that you've turned a pen or two, I'd like to send you a couple of real interesting blanks that I glue up.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*The Results Are In*









Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
























This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder. 
I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
























This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion. 
I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
























Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder. 
This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen. 
I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
























Last but not least. 
This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


bravo william, you done good man, each one is wonderful, are you happy with the results…and did you see i wrote you and told you my pen arrived yesterday, its beautiful, you didnt mention that you read that, just want to make sure you know it got here safely…thank you again…


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


I'm soooo glad the wait is over…..
My "refresh finger" needs a rest!!!

They all came out great! Bummer on the "shop pen", but it does look good!
My favorite is the "Last but not least" pen!!!

I know that you will keep experimenting, but ya done got this down….
You sir, make beautiful pens!!!

Carry on…..


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


Thank you Grizz. Yes, I am glad you got the pen. I hope you or your friend, depending on how you decide to do that, enjoy it.

Randy, thanks. Now go put a bandage on that refresh button finger.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


A question about that "Shop Pen".....

Would it be possible to remove the non-functioning mechanism and replace it with a properly working one???


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


Yes and no Randy.
They make a punch set to remove parts. I don't know how the punch set that Penn State sells is different than the punch set I own from my mechanic work days. However, here is the lowdown.
I have been able to remove parts to use for another pen. Everytime I do though, I ruin the finished blanks. So in this case, that kind of defeats the purpose. There may be a way to remove parts without damaging the pen body, but if it is, I don't know how.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


I think they ball turned out well but the yellowheart is my pick. I have never seen yellowheart in person but it looks just like our mulberry. Does it have an iridescent shimmer?


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


William…....another great batch…...I appreciate the fact that you're not just turning blanks…..you are creating some really cool little works of art. I like the Celtic cross, and am curious what you come up with the other angles…

I might be dropping you a line here soon on a little idea I've been working on…..more on that later…

They all look great, and that's the nicest shop pen I've ever seen…...


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


william you have some beautiful pen s going there i like the celtic cross one.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


Thanks Andy. Yes, the yellow heart has a shimmer on two opposite sides where the grain meets. I don't know how to explain that better, but I think you probably know what I mean.

Jeff, now you have me interested to know what idea you're bouncing around. Thanks for the compliment.

Eddie, thank you. The celtic cross is something I've been playing with for a while now. I think I have the problems worked out in my methods.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


All I can say William, is don't stay up tonight hitting the refresh button (like Randy does)......no more info tonight…..it's late!


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


William, Let me know if you need any mulberry. I have lots (in log form/not dried) that I would be happy to cut up and send to ya.

Some of it has amazing grain when quartersawn (like yellow sycamore)


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


All beautiful results William. Can you visualize how they will turn out from your original glue.up? I sure couldn't.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


Jeff, I won't do like Randy. 
I think I can find enough to keep me occupied without have a marathon "refresh button hitting all nighter".
We know Randy though.
He does it as an excuse not to go to his dungeun and start something else.
Isn't he the self proclaimed world champion prcrastinator?

Andy, I always love working with woods I haven't before. So I would, of course, love to try some mulberry. I hate sounding like I'm begging for wood though. Why don't we wait until I've used up some of the woods such generous people have alrteady sent me? And until maybe I'm a little better financially to pay for the shipping?

Thank you Stefang.
I am getting better at visualizing what I want, and how to accomplish it. Still though, it is completely impossible to know for sure how one will turn out until you are complete with it. Sometimes what you think will appear in a design either simple doesn't, or turns out to be something completely different than you originally thought.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


Your pen creations are incredible. Keep on, keepin on


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


That last one is a beauty, William!


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


William, they really came out looking awesome. I to am sorry to hear about the shop pen. I have the disassembly set and have also found it is only really good to get parts off of bad pens not bad parts off of good pens. I have had a few duds in mechanisms and check mine before assembly these days as well.

I really like how the last one turned out. Very cool. I really do need to do some experimenting.

CtL


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


Curious do you happen to have any other pics of the celtic knot blank? Other sides of the cuts?

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


Thank you Roger and Lew.

Chris, I'm afraid that is the only photo I took of those blanks. I have two more celtic knot blanks glued and drying on the work bench as I type this though. I will try to remember to snap a few photos for you before I turn them tomorrow. 
Are you looking for more instruction on how to make them? If so, here is a link to a good article on how to do it. The article shows how to do two rings. However, more rings are done exactly the same. You simply make more cuts and glue in the strips. The article shows a specialty made sled for making the knots. I just have a crudely made jig that I clamp to my Incra sled fence.

I have learned several things about making celtic knots to get to this point. 
First and most importantly, do not cut all the way through the blank. If you do, it is almost impossible to get everything lined back up perfectly, and everything HAS to stay perfectly square if you want it to work out correctly without misalignment. 
Next, make your contrasting strip snug. It has to be a good glue joint. However, a big mistake I kept making was I was making them too tight. If they are too tight, they'll push the material, with only a little bit holding the blank together, out of alignment. Yes, you may notice, it is all in keeping everything aligned properly. 
Last, I am glueing the strips in with thick CA glue. I cut and glue one strip, allow it to dry, then do the next one. Now, on each strip, before cutting your next cut, inspect your glued in strip carefully. If there is any cracks at all between the contrast strip and the blank, fill it with thin CA glue and let that dry. If you do not, there is a chance the blank will completely fail while cutting for the next strip.

I glued up seven blanks today. I have two forty five degree celtic knot blanks. I have variations on some of my other favorite ideas. Then I have two blanks that I made out of tiny pieces of scrap. I don't know how those will turn out. I messed around with those while waiting on glue to set on the celtic knot blanks.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


William, Just send me a pm when you are ready to try some mulberry. There won't be any shipping charges to you. That's what friends are for!


----------



## mochoa

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


Wow those are all so friggin cool! Great job.


----------



## Sanding2day

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


All great pens!! Really like the yellow/red heart pens the best… Thanks for sharing…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Results Are In*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several people expressed interest in how the blanks I glued up yesterday would turn out. Well, I had a very productive day today and turned all four of them.
> So, let's start just like we listed them yesterday, starting from the left and moving right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is yellow heart with a center strip made of walnut and box elder.
> I was extremely happy with this one. To be honest, I wasn't expecting much for my first time ever working with yellow heart. The blank, before turning, looked very plain. After turning it and smoothing it out in preparation for finish though, it gives off an unexpected brilliant glow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my latest attempt at the celtic cross. It is done with box elder in purple heart. It was a success, sort of.
> As far as technique goes, it is perfect as I have seen. The only thing I don't like is the angle I used. This was done on a twenty two and a half degree angle. While it is done correctly, a steeper angle would open it up more and make it look much better in my opinion.
> I am just thrilled over the top though that I finally glued one up correctly. I think I learned enough that I will be able to do the steeper angle without as many issues as I've had in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the long elliptical one in walnut and box elder.
> This one was a failure. I turned it correctly and done everything as I should have, only to find out after pressing the pen together that the advance mechanism is malfunctioning. It will not advance. Instead of scrapping the pen completely, I pressed the advance mechanism out further so the pen point simply stays out, ready to write. I will use it as a shop pen.
> I will be checking the advance mechanisms from now on before pressing them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last but not least.
> This one is red heart, box elder, and ziricote. If you remember, I was worried about this one blowing apart if it came near a cutting tool. I simply was not happy with the glue up. It wasn't as tight as I would have liked. This morning though, I filled several gaps in it with glue and gave it a shot. In my humble opinion, this terrible glue up turned out to be one of the nicest pens I've done in a while.


Thank you Maurico and Dan.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*A Personal Challenge*

I've had a couple of pretty decent days. When that happens, I usually mess it up by over doing things and making myself hurt worse than ever. Well, so it goes. That's exactly what I have done. As I sit here in pain though, I am sort of proud of myself. I sort of made myself a personal challenge, and I succeeded.








It started with yesterday. I wanted to see how many blanks I could prepare in one day. That was not all of the challenge though. I did not want to simply throw together two simple pieces of wood. I wanted to make interesting blanks. Then, whatever blanks I was able to make in one day, I wanted to see if I could turn them all in one more day.
In my mind, I was thinking I would aim for five blanks. Well, without putting much though into it, while waiting for some glue ups to set so I could add more, like on the celtic cross designs, I started playing around with pieces in my scrap bucket and glued up two extra blanks. That made for seven blanks total. That is when I realized I had actually put myself in a predicament if I was planning on doing them all in one day. I still wanted to go through with trying anyway. ﻿
So, today I went to the shop to see if I was up to the challenge. I'll start left to right in the above photo of pen blanks and tell you about each one. Let's see how far I got.
























I think I have the celtic cross design beat now. Once I learned that the biggest obstacle is patience with this design, it seems so easy that I'm embarrassed that it took me so long to get it right.
This one is yellow heart with walnut for the celtic cross. The cross pieces were cut and glued in on a forty five degree angle.
















This one is box elder and walnut. 
It actually was not turning out at all like I wanted. So when I realized it was going to look terrible the way it was going, I reversed the blank on the back end of the pen to make the swoops opposite each other. That change in mid-stream, while it wasn't exactly the look I was going for, I think saved the pen from complete failure. 
















Next up, since I had the celtic cross figured out and had one with dark in light contrast, I wanted to make one on the opposite end of the spectrum. So here is one in red heart with box elder cross pieces.
























This one is a different take on a design I've done several time. I usually make a double curve along the length of the whole pen. I was just wondering what adding more curves to the mix would produce. I like this design very much and actually started thinking of some other variations I may try in the near future.
This one is purple heart with a box elder strip.
















I admit that I really don't know where my thought process was going with this one. It looked magnificent in my mind. I think it turned out kind of plainer than I imagined though. It is a nice pen, but I don't think it is nice enough to revisit the awkward glue up process it took to make it.
It is made of sweet gum and the strips are walnut and sapelle.
















This one is one of the scrap wood pens. Actually, it is entirely scrap wood. Each and every piece of this particular pen came out of my scrap bucket. All I done was cut some notches in some of the pieces, stacked other pieces of scraps on top of it, and then took it apart and rebuilt it one piece at a time, in between waiting on other glue ups, and glued the pieces together. 
















This is my other scrap wood pen. This one is not completely scrap wood. I cut notches for this one in a sweet gum blank. Then I glued the little squares of scraps in those notches. I don't know what I was expecting out of this one. I think it did turn out very interesting though. It looks almost like polka-dots to me.
.
Were you keeping count?
I wasn't. I had turned the last pen for the day when I realized that I had met my own challenge and turned all seven pens in a day. I was proud of myself. I was also aware of how bad my back had started hurting. I hate it, but I highly doubt I'll make it to the shop tomorrow, but it felt so good to meet my goal.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Personal Challenge*
> 
> I've had a couple of pretty decent days. When that happens, I usually mess it up by over doing things and making myself hurt worse than ever. Well, so it goes. That's exactly what I have done. As I sit here in pain though, I am sort of proud of myself. I sort of made myself a personal challenge, and I succeeded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It started with yesterday. I wanted to see how many blanks I could prepare in one day. That was not all of the challenge though. I did not want to simply throw together two simple pieces of wood. I wanted to make interesting blanks. Then, whatever blanks I was able to make in one day, I wanted to see if I could turn them all in one more day.
> In my mind, I was thinking I would aim for five blanks. Well, without putting much though into it, while waiting for some glue ups to set so I could add more, like on the celtic cross designs, I started playing around with pieces in my scrap bucket and glued up two extra blanks. That made for seven blanks total. That is when I realized I had actually put myself in a predicament if I was planning on doing them all in one day. I still wanted to go through with trying anyway. ﻿
> So, today I went to the shop to see if I was up to the challenge. I'll start left to right in the above photo of pen blanks and tell you about each one. Let's see how far I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have the celtic cross design beat now. Once I learned that the biggest obstacle is patience with this design, it seems so easy that I'm embarrassed that it took me so long to get it right.
> This one is yellow heart with walnut for the celtic cross. The cross pieces were cut and glued in on a forty five degree angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder and walnut.
> It actually was not turning out at all like I wanted. So when I realized it was going to look terrible the way it was going, I reversed the blank on the back end of the pen to make the swoops opposite each other. That change in mid-stream, while it wasn't exactly the look I was going for, I think saved the pen from complete failure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, since I had the celtic cross figured out and had one with dark in light contrast, I wanted to make one on the opposite end of the spectrum. So here is one in red heart with box elder cross pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is a different take on a design I've done several time. I usually make a double curve along the length of the whole pen. I was just wondering what adding more curves to the mix would produce. I like this design very much and actually started thinking of some other variations I may try in the near future.
> This one is purple heart with a box elder strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I admit that I really don't know where my thought process was going with this one. It looked magnificent in my mind. I think it turned out kind of plainer than I imagined though. It is a nice pen, but I don't think it is nice enough to revisit the awkward glue up process it took to make it.
> It is made of sweet gum and the strips are walnut and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is one of the scrap wood pens. Actually, it is entirely scrap wood. Each and every piece of this particular pen came out of my scrap bucket. All I done was cut some notches in some of the pieces, stacked other pieces of scraps on top of it, and then took it apart and rebuilt it one piece at a time, in between waiting on other glue ups, and glued the pieces together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my other scrap wood pen. This one is not completely scrap wood. I cut notches for this one in a sweet gum blank. Then I glued the little squares of scraps in those notches. I don't know what I was expecting out of this one. I think it did turn out very interesting though. It looks almost like polka-dots to me.
> .
> Were you keeping count?
> I wasn't. I had turned the last pen for the day when I realized that I had met my own challenge and turned all seven pens in a day. I was proud of myself. I was also aware of how bad my back had started hurting. I hate it, but I highly doubt I'll make it to the shop tomorrow, but it felt so good to meet my goal.


It appears there is no limit to the design variations you can come up with for pens. They all turned out cool but the yellowheart and redheart with the celtic knots are the winners for today. (IMHO)


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Personal Challenge*
> 
> I've had a couple of pretty decent days. When that happens, I usually mess it up by over doing things and making myself hurt worse than ever. Well, so it goes. That's exactly what I have done. As I sit here in pain though, I am sort of proud of myself. I sort of made myself a personal challenge, and I succeeded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It started with yesterday. I wanted to see how many blanks I could prepare in one day. That was not all of the challenge though. I did not want to simply throw together two simple pieces of wood. I wanted to make interesting blanks. Then, whatever blanks I was able to make in one day, I wanted to see if I could turn them all in one more day.
> In my mind, I was thinking I would aim for five blanks. Well, without putting much though into it, while waiting for some glue ups to set so I could add more, like on the celtic cross designs, I started playing around with pieces in my scrap bucket and glued up two extra blanks. That made for seven blanks total. That is when I realized I had actually put myself in a predicament if I was planning on doing them all in one day. I still wanted to go through with trying anyway. ﻿
> So, today I went to the shop to see if I was up to the challenge. I'll start left to right in the above photo of pen blanks and tell you about each one. Let's see how far I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have the celtic cross design beat now. Once I learned that the biggest obstacle is patience with this design, it seems so easy that I'm embarrassed that it took me so long to get it right.
> This one is yellow heart with walnut for the celtic cross. The cross pieces were cut and glued in on a forty five degree angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder and walnut.
> It actually was not turning out at all like I wanted. So when I realized it was going to look terrible the way it was going, I reversed the blank on the back end of the pen to make the swoops opposite each other. That change in mid-stream, while it wasn't exactly the look I was going for, I think saved the pen from complete failure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, since I had the celtic cross figured out and had one with dark in light contrast, I wanted to make one on the opposite end of the spectrum. So here is one in red heart with box elder cross pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is a different take on a design I've done several time. I usually make a double curve along the length of the whole pen. I was just wondering what adding more curves to the mix would produce. I like this design very much and actually started thinking of some other variations I may try in the near future.
> This one is purple heart with a box elder strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I admit that I really don't know where my thought process was going with this one. It looked magnificent in my mind. I think it turned out kind of plainer than I imagined though. It is a nice pen, but I don't think it is nice enough to revisit the awkward glue up process it took to make it.
> It is made of sweet gum and the strips are walnut and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is one of the scrap wood pens. Actually, it is entirely scrap wood. Each and every piece of this particular pen came out of my scrap bucket. All I done was cut some notches in some of the pieces, stacked other pieces of scraps on top of it, and then took it apart and rebuilt it one piece at a time, in between waiting on other glue ups, and glued the pieces together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my other scrap wood pen. This one is not completely scrap wood. I cut notches for this one in a sweet gum blank. Then I glued the little squares of scraps in those notches. I don't know what I was expecting out of this one. I think it did turn out very interesting though. It looks almost like polka-dots to me.
> .
> Were you keeping count?
> I wasn't. I had turned the last pen for the day when I realized that I had met my own challenge and turned all seven pens in a day. I was proud of myself. I was also aware of how bad my back had started hurting. I hate it, but I highly doubt I'll make it to the shop tomorrow, but it felt so good to meet my goal.


I wasn't keeping count either, but that's a fine looking batch. You got that "cross" nailed down for sure…nice. There seems to be no end to this exploration in turning. Very cool….....I like the polka dots and the rest as well…..keep em turnin'......


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Personal Challenge*
> 
> I've had a couple of pretty decent days. When that happens, I usually mess it up by over doing things and making myself hurt worse than ever. Well, so it goes. That's exactly what I have done. As I sit here in pain though, I am sort of proud of myself. I sort of made myself a personal challenge, and I succeeded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It started with yesterday. I wanted to see how many blanks I could prepare in one day. That was not all of the challenge though. I did not want to simply throw together two simple pieces of wood. I wanted to make interesting blanks. Then, whatever blanks I was able to make in one day, I wanted to see if I could turn them all in one more day.
> In my mind, I was thinking I would aim for five blanks. Well, without putting much though into it, while waiting for some glue ups to set so I could add more, like on the celtic cross designs, I started playing around with pieces in my scrap bucket and glued up two extra blanks. That made for seven blanks total. That is when I realized I had actually put myself in a predicament if I was planning on doing them all in one day. I still wanted to go through with trying anyway. ﻿
> So, today I went to the shop to see if I was up to the challenge. I'll start left to right in the above photo of pen blanks and tell you about each one. Let's see how far I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have the celtic cross design beat now. Once I learned that the biggest obstacle is patience with this design, it seems so easy that I'm embarrassed that it took me so long to get it right.
> This one is yellow heart with walnut for the celtic cross. The cross pieces were cut and glued in on a forty five degree angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder and walnut.
> It actually was not turning out at all like I wanted. So when I realized it was going to look terrible the way it was going, I reversed the blank on the back end of the pen to make the swoops opposite each other. That change in mid-stream, while it wasn't exactly the look I was going for, I think saved the pen from complete failure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, since I had the celtic cross figured out and had one with dark in light contrast, I wanted to make one on the opposite end of the spectrum. So here is one in red heart with box elder cross pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is a different take on a design I've done several time. I usually make a double curve along the length of the whole pen. I was just wondering what adding more curves to the mix would produce. I like this design very much and actually started thinking of some other variations I may try in the near future.
> This one is purple heart with a box elder strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I admit that I really don't know where my thought process was going with this one. It looked magnificent in my mind. I think it turned out kind of plainer than I imagined though. It is a nice pen, but I don't think it is nice enough to revisit the awkward glue up process it took to make it.
> It is made of sweet gum and the strips are walnut and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is one of the scrap wood pens. Actually, it is entirely scrap wood. Each and every piece of this particular pen came out of my scrap bucket. All I done was cut some notches in some of the pieces, stacked other pieces of scraps on top of it, and then took it apart and rebuilt it one piece at a time, in between waiting on other glue ups, and glued the pieces together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my other scrap wood pen. This one is not completely scrap wood. I cut notches for this one in a sweet gum blank. Then I glued the little squares of scraps in those notches. I don't know what I was expecting out of this one. I think it did turn out very interesting though. It looks almost like polka-dots to me.
> .
> Were you keeping count?
> I wasn't. I had turned the last pen for the day when I realized that I had met my own challenge and turned all seven pens in a day. I was proud of myself. I was also aware of how bad my back had started hurting. I hate it, but I highly doubt I'll make it to the shop tomorrow, but it felt so good to meet my goal.


The celtic knots came out great. Yeah, you got that one figured out!

The "Multi-Wave" is cool also!!

The others are interesting, to say the least!!!

It was difficult (ok, impossible for me) to visualize what each blank would turn into. Clearly, experimentation is key to developing interesting blanks from which to turn incredible pens. Carry on!!!


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Personal Challenge*
> 
> I've had a couple of pretty decent days. When that happens, I usually mess it up by over doing things and making myself hurt worse than ever. Well, so it goes. That's exactly what I have done. As I sit here in pain though, I am sort of proud of myself. I sort of made myself a personal challenge, and I succeeded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It started with yesterday. I wanted to see how many blanks I could prepare in one day. That was not all of the challenge though. I did not want to simply throw together two simple pieces of wood. I wanted to make interesting blanks. Then, whatever blanks I was able to make in one day, I wanted to see if I could turn them all in one more day.
> In my mind, I was thinking I would aim for five blanks. Well, without putting much though into it, while waiting for some glue ups to set so I could add more, like on the celtic cross designs, I started playing around with pieces in my scrap bucket and glued up two extra blanks. That made for seven blanks total. That is when I realized I had actually put myself in a predicament if I was planning on doing them all in one day. I still wanted to go through with trying anyway. ﻿
> So, today I went to the shop to see if I was up to the challenge. I'll start left to right in the above photo of pen blanks and tell you about each one. Let's see how far I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have the celtic cross design beat now. Once I learned that the biggest obstacle is patience with this design, it seems so easy that I'm embarrassed that it took me so long to get it right.
> This one is yellow heart with walnut for the celtic cross. The cross pieces were cut and glued in on a forty five degree angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder and walnut.
> It actually was not turning out at all like I wanted. So when I realized it was going to look terrible the way it was going, I reversed the blank on the back end of the pen to make the swoops opposite each other. That change in mid-stream, while it wasn't exactly the look I was going for, I think saved the pen from complete failure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, since I had the celtic cross figured out and had one with dark in light contrast, I wanted to make one on the opposite end of the spectrum. So here is one in red heart with box elder cross pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is a different take on a design I've done several time. I usually make a double curve along the length of the whole pen. I was just wondering what adding more curves to the mix would produce. I like this design very much and actually started thinking of some other variations I may try in the near future.
> This one is purple heart with a box elder strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I admit that I really don't know where my thought process was going with this one. It looked magnificent in my mind. I think it turned out kind of plainer than I imagined though. It is a nice pen, but I don't think it is nice enough to revisit the awkward glue up process it took to make it.
> It is made of sweet gum and the strips are walnut and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is one of the scrap wood pens. Actually, it is entirely scrap wood. Each and every piece of this particular pen came out of my scrap bucket. All I done was cut some notches in some of the pieces, stacked other pieces of scraps on top of it, and then took it apart and rebuilt it one piece at a time, in between waiting on other glue ups, and glued the pieces together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my other scrap wood pen. This one is not completely scrap wood. I cut notches for this one in a sweet gum blank. Then I glued the little squares of scraps in those notches. I don't know what I was expecting out of this one. I think it did turn out very interesting though. It looks almost like polka-dots to me.
> .
> Were you keeping count?
> I wasn't. I had turned the last pen for the day when I realized that I had met my own challenge and turned all seven pens in a day. I was proud of myself. I was also aware of how bad my back had started hurting. I hate it, but I highly doubt I'll make it to the shop tomorrow, but it felt so good to meet my goal.


William you have it down , they turned out beautiful these are incredible pens each has it own design


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Personal Challenge*
> 
> I've had a couple of pretty decent days. When that happens, I usually mess it up by over doing things and making myself hurt worse than ever. Well, so it goes. That's exactly what I have done. As I sit here in pain though, I am sort of proud of myself. I sort of made myself a personal challenge, and I succeeded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It started with yesterday. I wanted to see how many blanks I could prepare in one day. That was not all of the challenge though. I did not want to simply throw together two simple pieces of wood. I wanted to make interesting blanks. Then, whatever blanks I was able to make in one day, I wanted to see if I could turn them all in one more day.
> In my mind, I was thinking I would aim for five blanks. Well, without putting much though into it, while waiting for some glue ups to set so I could add more, like on the celtic cross designs, I started playing around with pieces in my scrap bucket and glued up two extra blanks. That made for seven blanks total. That is when I realized I had actually put myself in a predicament if I was planning on doing them all in one day. I still wanted to go through with trying anyway. ﻿
> So, today I went to the shop to see if I was up to the challenge. I'll start left to right in the above photo of pen blanks and tell you about each one. Let's see how far I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have the celtic cross design beat now. Once I learned that the biggest obstacle is patience with this design, it seems so easy that I'm embarrassed that it took me so long to get it right.
> This one is yellow heart with walnut for the celtic cross. The cross pieces were cut and glued in on a forty five degree angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder and walnut.
> It actually was not turning out at all like I wanted. So when I realized it was going to look terrible the way it was going, I reversed the blank on the back end of the pen to make the swoops opposite each other. That change in mid-stream, while it wasn't exactly the look I was going for, I think saved the pen from complete failure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, since I had the celtic cross figured out and had one with dark in light contrast, I wanted to make one on the opposite end of the spectrum. So here is one in red heart with box elder cross pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is a different take on a design I've done several time. I usually make a double curve along the length of the whole pen. I was just wondering what adding more curves to the mix would produce. I like this design very much and actually started thinking of some other variations I may try in the near future.
> This one is purple heart with a box elder strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I admit that I really don't know where my thought process was going with this one. It looked magnificent in my mind. I think it turned out kind of plainer than I imagined though. It is a nice pen, but I don't think it is nice enough to revisit the awkward glue up process it took to make it.
> It is made of sweet gum and the strips are walnut and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is one of the scrap wood pens. Actually, it is entirely scrap wood. Each and every piece of this particular pen came out of my scrap bucket. All I done was cut some notches in some of the pieces, stacked other pieces of scraps on top of it, and then took it apart and rebuilt it one piece at a time, in between waiting on other glue ups, and glued the pieces together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my other scrap wood pen. This one is not completely scrap wood. I cut notches for this one in a sweet gum blank. Then I glued the little squares of scraps in those notches. I don't know what I was expecting out of this one. I think it did turn out very interesting though. It looks almost like polka-dots to me.
> .
> Were you keeping count?
> I wasn't. I had turned the last pen for the day when I realized that I had met my own challenge and turned all seven pens in a day. I was proud of myself. I was also aware of how bad my back had started hurting. I hate it, but I highly doubt I'll make it to the shop tomorrow, but it felt so good to meet my goal.


there fantastic william, now go get some rest and hope you can let things settle and lower your pain…metting goals is a good feeling…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Personal Challenge*
> 
> I've had a couple of pretty decent days. When that happens, I usually mess it up by over doing things and making myself hurt worse than ever. Well, so it goes. That's exactly what I have done. As I sit here in pain though, I am sort of proud of myself. I sort of made myself a personal challenge, and I succeeded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It started with yesterday. I wanted to see how many blanks I could prepare in one day. That was not all of the challenge though. I did not want to simply throw together two simple pieces of wood. I wanted to make interesting blanks. Then, whatever blanks I was able to make in one day, I wanted to see if I could turn them all in one more day.
> In my mind, I was thinking I would aim for five blanks. Well, without putting much though into it, while waiting for some glue ups to set so I could add more, like on the celtic cross designs, I started playing around with pieces in my scrap bucket and glued up two extra blanks. That made for seven blanks total. That is when I realized I had actually put myself in a predicament if I was planning on doing them all in one day. I still wanted to go through with trying anyway. ﻿
> So, today I went to the shop to see if I was up to the challenge. I'll start left to right in the above photo of pen blanks and tell you about each one. Let's see how far I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have the celtic cross design beat now. Once I learned that the biggest obstacle is patience with this design, it seems so easy that I'm embarrassed that it took me so long to get it right.
> This one is yellow heart with walnut for the celtic cross. The cross pieces were cut and glued in on a forty five degree angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder and walnut.
> It actually was not turning out at all like I wanted. So when I realized it was going to look terrible the way it was going, I reversed the blank on the back end of the pen to make the swoops opposite each other. That change in mid-stream, while it wasn't exactly the look I was going for, I think saved the pen from complete failure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, since I had the celtic cross figured out and had one with dark in light contrast, I wanted to make one on the opposite end of the spectrum. So here is one in red heart with box elder cross pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is a different take on a design I've done several time. I usually make a double curve along the length of the whole pen. I was just wondering what adding more curves to the mix would produce. I like this design very much and actually started thinking of some other variations I may try in the near future.
> This one is purple heart with a box elder strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I admit that I really don't know where my thought process was going with this one. It looked magnificent in my mind. I think it turned out kind of plainer than I imagined though. It is a nice pen, but I don't think it is nice enough to revisit the awkward glue up process it took to make it.
> It is made of sweet gum and the strips are walnut and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is one of the scrap wood pens. Actually, it is entirely scrap wood. Each and every piece of this particular pen came out of my scrap bucket. All I done was cut some notches in some of the pieces, stacked other pieces of scraps on top of it, and then took it apart and rebuilt it one piece at a time, in between waiting on other glue ups, and glued the pieces together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my other scrap wood pen. This one is not completely scrap wood. I cut notches for this one in a sweet gum blank. Then I glued the little squares of scraps in those notches. I don't know what I was expecting out of this one. I think it did turn out very interesting though. It looks almost like polka-dots to me.
> .
> Were you keeping count?
> I wasn't. I had turned the last pen for the day when I realized that I had met my own challenge and turned all seven pens in a day. I was proud of myself. I was also aware of how bad my back had started hurting. I hate it, but I highly doubt I'll make it to the shop tomorrow, but it felt so good to meet my goal.


Thank you all for your kind words.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Personal Challenge*
> 
> I've had a couple of pretty decent days. When that happens, I usually mess it up by over doing things and making myself hurt worse than ever. Well, so it goes. That's exactly what I have done. As I sit here in pain though, I am sort of proud of myself. I sort of made myself a personal challenge, and I succeeded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It started with yesterday. I wanted to see how many blanks I could prepare in one day. That was not all of the challenge though. I did not want to simply throw together two simple pieces of wood. I wanted to make interesting blanks. Then, whatever blanks I was able to make in one day, I wanted to see if I could turn them all in one more day.
> In my mind, I was thinking I would aim for five blanks. Well, without putting much though into it, while waiting for some glue ups to set so I could add more, like on the celtic cross designs, I started playing around with pieces in my scrap bucket and glued up two extra blanks. That made for seven blanks total. That is when I realized I had actually put myself in a predicament if I was planning on doing them all in one day. I still wanted to go through with trying anyway. ﻿
> So, today I went to the shop to see if I was up to the challenge. I'll start left to right in the above photo of pen blanks and tell you about each one. Let's see how far I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have the celtic cross design beat now. Once I learned that the biggest obstacle is patience with this design, it seems so easy that I'm embarrassed that it took me so long to get it right.
> This one is yellow heart with walnut for the celtic cross. The cross pieces were cut and glued in on a forty five degree angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder and walnut.
> It actually was not turning out at all like I wanted. So when I realized it was going to look terrible the way it was going, I reversed the blank on the back end of the pen to make the swoops opposite each other. That change in mid-stream, while it wasn't exactly the look I was going for, I think saved the pen from complete failure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, since I had the celtic cross figured out and had one with dark in light contrast, I wanted to make one on the opposite end of the spectrum. So here is one in red heart with box elder cross pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is a different take on a design I've done several time. I usually make a double curve along the length of the whole pen. I was just wondering what adding more curves to the mix would produce. I like this design very much and actually started thinking of some other variations I may try in the near future.
> This one is purple heart with a box elder strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I admit that I really don't know where my thought process was going with this one. It looked magnificent in my mind. I think it turned out kind of plainer than I imagined though. It is a nice pen, but I don't think it is nice enough to revisit the awkward glue up process it took to make it.
> It is made of sweet gum and the strips are walnut and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is one of the scrap wood pens. Actually, it is entirely scrap wood. Each and every piece of this particular pen came out of my scrap bucket. All I done was cut some notches in some of the pieces, stacked other pieces of scraps on top of it, and then took it apart and rebuilt it one piece at a time, in between waiting on other glue ups, and glued the pieces together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my other scrap wood pen. This one is not completely scrap wood. I cut notches for this one in a sweet gum blank. Then I glued the little squares of scraps in those notches. I don't know what I was expecting out of this one. I think it did turn out very interesting though. It looks almost like polka-dots to me.
> .
> Were you keeping count?
> I wasn't. I had turned the last pen for the day when I realized that I had met my own challenge and turned all seven pens in a day. I was proud of myself. I was also aware of how bad my back had started hurting. I hate it, but I highly doubt I'll make it to the shop tomorrow, but it felt so good to meet my goal.


Gr8 lookin results William, and really gr8 creations in those fine writing tools


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Personal Challenge*
> 
> I've had a couple of pretty decent days. When that happens, I usually mess it up by over doing things and making myself hurt worse than ever. Well, so it goes. That's exactly what I have done. As I sit here in pain though, I am sort of proud of myself. I sort of made myself a personal challenge, and I succeeded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It started with yesterday. I wanted to see how many blanks I could prepare in one day. That was not all of the challenge though. I did not want to simply throw together two simple pieces of wood. I wanted to make interesting blanks. Then, whatever blanks I was able to make in one day, I wanted to see if I could turn them all in one more day.
> In my mind, I was thinking I would aim for five blanks. Well, without putting much though into it, while waiting for some glue ups to set so I could add more, like on the celtic cross designs, I started playing around with pieces in my scrap bucket and glued up two extra blanks. That made for seven blanks total. That is when I realized I had actually put myself in a predicament if I was planning on doing them all in one day. I still wanted to go through with trying anyway. ﻿
> So, today I went to the shop to see if I was up to the challenge. I'll start left to right in the above photo of pen blanks and tell you about each one. Let's see how far I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have the celtic cross design beat now. Once I learned that the biggest obstacle is patience with this design, it seems so easy that I'm embarrassed that it took me so long to get it right.
> This one is yellow heart with walnut for the celtic cross. The cross pieces were cut and glued in on a forty five degree angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder and walnut.
> It actually was not turning out at all like I wanted. So when I realized it was going to look terrible the way it was going, I reversed the blank on the back end of the pen to make the swoops opposite each other. That change in mid-stream, while it wasn't exactly the look I was going for, I think saved the pen from complete failure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, since I had the celtic cross figured out and had one with dark in light contrast, I wanted to make one on the opposite end of the spectrum. So here is one in red heart with box elder cross pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is a different take on a design I've done several time. I usually make a double curve along the length of the whole pen. I was just wondering what adding more curves to the mix would produce. I like this design very much and actually started thinking of some other variations I may try in the near future.
> This one is purple heart with a box elder strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I admit that I really don't know where my thought process was going with this one. It looked magnificent in my mind. I think it turned out kind of plainer than I imagined though. It is a nice pen, but I don't think it is nice enough to revisit the awkward glue up process it took to make it.
> It is made of sweet gum and the strips are walnut and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is one of the scrap wood pens. Actually, it is entirely scrap wood. Each and every piece of this particular pen came out of my scrap bucket. All I done was cut some notches in some of the pieces, stacked other pieces of scraps on top of it, and then took it apart and rebuilt it one piece at a time, in between waiting on other glue ups, and glued the pieces together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my other scrap wood pen. This one is not completely scrap wood. I cut notches for this one in a sweet gum blank. Then I glued the little squares of scraps in those notches. I don't know what I was expecting out of this one. I think it did turn out very interesting though. It looks almost like polka-dots to me.
> .
> Were you keeping count?
> I wasn't. I had turned the last pen for the day when I realized that I had met my own challenge and turned all seven pens in a day. I was proud of myself. I was also aware of how bad my back had started hurting. I hate it, but I highly doubt I'll make it to the shop tomorrow, but it felt so good to meet my goal.


Thank you Roger.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Personal Challenge*
> 
> I've had a couple of pretty decent days. When that happens, I usually mess it up by over doing things and making myself hurt worse than ever. Well, so it goes. That's exactly what I have done. As I sit here in pain though, I am sort of proud of myself. I sort of made myself a personal challenge, and I succeeded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It started with yesterday. I wanted to see how many blanks I could prepare in one day. That was not all of the challenge though. I did not want to simply throw together two simple pieces of wood. I wanted to make interesting blanks. Then, whatever blanks I was able to make in one day, I wanted to see if I could turn them all in one more day.
> In my mind, I was thinking I would aim for five blanks. Well, without putting much though into it, while waiting for some glue ups to set so I could add more, like on the celtic cross designs, I started playing around with pieces in my scrap bucket and glued up two extra blanks. That made for seven blanks total. That is when I realized I had actually put myself in a predicament if I was planning on doing them all in one day. I still wanted to go through with trying anyway. ﻿
> So, today I went to the shop to see if I was up to the challenge. I'll start left to right in the above photo of pen blanks and tell you about each one. Let's see how far I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have the celtic cross design beat now. Once I learned that the biggest obstacle is patience with this design, it seems so easy that I'm embarrassed that it took me so long to get it right.
> This one is yellow heart with walnut for the celtic cross. The cross pieces were cut and glued in on a forty five degree angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder and walnut.
> It actually was not turning out at all like I wanted. So when I realized it was going to look terrible the way it was going, I reversed the blank on the back end of the pen to make the swoops opposite each other. That change in mid-stream, while it wasn't exactly the look I was going for, I think saved the pen from complete failure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, since I had the celtic cross figured out and had one with dark in light contrast, I wanted to make one on the opposite end of the spectrum. So here is one in red heart with box elder cross pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is a different take on a design I've done several time. I usually make a double curve along the length of the whole pen. I was just wondering what adding more curves to the mix would produce. I like this design very much and actually started thinking of some other variations I may try in the near future.
> This one is purple heart with a box elder strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I admit that I really don't know where my thought process was going with this one. It looked magnificent in my mind. I think it turned out kind of plainer than I imagined though. It is a nice pen, but I don't think it is nice enough to revisit the awkward glue up process it took to make it.
> It is made of sweet gum and the strips are walnut and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is one of the scrap wood pens. Actually, it is entirely scrap wood. Each and every piece of this particular pen came out of my scrap bucket. All I done was cut some notches in some of the pieces, stacked other pieces of scraps on top of it, and then took it apart and rebuilt it one piece at a time, in between waiting on other glue ups, and glued the pieces together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my other scrap wood pen. This one is not completely scrap wood. I cut notches for this one in a sweet gum blank. Then I glued the little squares of scraps in those notches. I don't know what I was expecting out of this one. I think it did turn out very interesting though. It looks almost like polka-dots to me.
> .
> Were you keeping count?
> I wasn't. I had turned the last pen for the day when I realized that I had met my own challenge and turned all seven pens in a day. I was proud of myself. I was also aware of how bad my back had started hurting. I hate it, but I highly doubt I'll make it to the shop tomorrow, but it felt so good to meet my goal.


I've had a couple of people (on this post it was Randy) mention different things about visiualizing how a blank will turn out based on how the blank is glued up.
It is actually impossible to always know exactly what it will look like. However, you can guess based on a few things you learn along the way.
Here are a few of those things. Keep in mind that these are general and change constantly depending on different variables:
Straight lines on a square blank, cut on an angle, come out curves because the finished product is round, not square.
A low angle creates more of a circle look while a steep angle creates more of an elliptical look.
If you clue in curves lines and then turn into it, the two curved lines on each side of the pen will meet where you cut into the contrasting wood. What effect this takes depends on how far you cut into it. So you have to plan on this accordingly, or try to. If you cut all the way through the line, then the two lines will be together, but will split along the length of the pen. 
If a strip glued in goes further into the blank than the thickness of the pen will be in the center of the blank, then the line or elliptical will show as a complete circle all the way around. 
Glued in squares make two swooping lines. The direction of the swoop depend on which way you glue them in with relation to the middle of the blank and how thick the pen is in relation to the same point. 
All lines if near each other or intersecting each other, create interesting results. The celtic cross for example is just carefully planned interesting lines. This one is a technique that allows for much experimentation. Sometimes it is fun just to glue in random lines and see what happens. 
That's all I can think of at the moment. As you can see though. There are loose rules that go along with these designs that allow one to work towards a look they may be going after. Nothing is set in stone though and the slightest change in design can make for distinct differences in the finished pen. So when I have an idea, I get to gluing and see what I come up with. Sometimes it looks beautiful. Sometimes it looks, well, not so beautiful.
The exception to the last one is if the line goes to the end of the pen blank close to the center. Then it will only depend on variables that allow for your finished pen to be cut into your contrasting wood or not.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Personal Challenge*
> 
> I've had a couple of pretty decent days. When that happens, I usually mess it up by over doing things and making myself hurt worse than ever. Well, so it goes. That's exactly what I have done. As I sit here in pain though, I am sort of proud of myself. I sort of made myself a personal challenge, and I succeeded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It started with yesterday. I wanted to see how many blanks I could prepare in one day. That was not all of the challenge though. I did not want to simply throw together two simple pieces of wood. I wanted to make interesting blanks. Then, whatever blanks I was able to make in one day, I wanted to see if I could turn them all in one more day.
> In my mind, I was thinking I would aim for five blanks. Well, without putting much though into it, while waiting for some glue ups to set so I could add more, like on the celtic cross designs, I started playing around with pieces in my scrap bucket and glued up two extra blanks. That made for seven blanks total. That is when I realized I had actually put myself in a predicament if I was planning on doing them all in one day. I still wanted to go through with trying anyway. ﻿
> So, today I went to the shop to see if I was up to the challenge. I'll start left to right in the above photo of pen blanks and tell you about each one. Let's see how far I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have the celtic cross design beat now. Once I learned that the biggest obstacle is patience with this design, it seems so easy that I'm embarrassed that it took me so long to get it right.
> This one is yellow heart with walnut for the celtic cross. The cross pieces were cut and glued in on a forty five degree angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder and walnut.
> It actually was not turning out at all like I wanted. So when I realized it was going to look terrible the way it was going, I reversed the blank on the back end of the pen to make the swoops opposite each other. That change in mid-stream, while it wasn't exactly the look I was going for, I think saved the pen from complete failure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, since I had the celtic cross figured out and had one with dark in light contrast, I wanted to make one on the opposite end of the spectrum. So here is one in red heart with box elder cross pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is a different take on a design I've done several time. I usually make a double curve along the length of the whole pen. I was just wondering what adding more curves to the mix would produce. I like this design very much and actually started thinking of some other variations I may try in the near future.
> This one is purple heart with a box elder strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I admit that I really don't know where my thought process was going with this one. It looked magnificent in my mind. I think it turned out kind of plainer than I imagined though. It is a nice pen, but I don't think it is nice enough to revisit the awkward glue up process it took to make it.
> It is made of sweet gum and the strips are walnut and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is one of the scrap wood pens. Actually, it is entirely scrap wood. Each and every piece of this particular pen came out of my scrap bucket. All I done was cut some notches in some of the pieces, stacked other pieces of scraps on top of it, and then took it apart and rebuilt it one piece at a time, in between waiting on other glue ups, and glued the pieces together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my other scrap wood pen. This one is not completely scrap wood. I cut notches for this one in a sweet gum blank. Then I glued the little squares of scraps in those notches. I don't know what I was expecting out of this one. I think it did turn out very interesting though. It looks almost like polka-dots to me.
> .
> Were you keeping count?
> I wasn't. I had turned the last pen for the day when I realized that I had met my own challenge and turned all seven pens in a day. I was proud of myself. I was also aware of how bad my back had started hurting. I hate it, but I highly doubt I'll make it to the shop tomorrow, but it felt so good to meet my goal.


William, What an awesome looking batch. You certainly have that Celtic Knot down good. Great last posting as well, good information to know. I recently remembered I had a pile of Veneers that I got a long time ago, I now have my first experiment drying. Hopefully will get a chance to get it turned before the end of the weekend. Looking forward to seeing how it will come out. Thanks for all the input.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Personal Challenge*
> 
> I've had a couple of pretty decent days. When that happens, I usually mess it up by over doing things and making myself hurt worse than ever. Well, so it goes. That's exactly what I have done. As I sit here in pain though, I am sort of proud of myself. I sort of made myself a personal challenge, and I succeeded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It started with yesterday. I wanted to see how many blanks I could prepare in one day. That was not all of the challenge though. I did not want to simply throw together two simple pieces of wood. I wanted to make interesting blanks. Then, whatever blanks I was able to make in one day, I wanted to see if I could turn them all in one more day.
> In my mind, I was thinking I would aim for five blanks. Well, without putting much though into it, while waiting for some glue ups to set so I could add more, like on the celtic cross designs, I started playing around with pieces in my scrap bucket and glued up two extra blanks. That made for seven blanks total. That is when I realized I had actually put myself in a predicament if I was planning on doing them all in one day. I still wanted to go through with trying anyway. ﻿
> So, today I went to the shop to see if I was up to the challenge. I'll start left to right in the above photo of pen blanks and tell you about each one. Let's see how far I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have the celtic cross design beat now. Once I learned that the biggest obstacle is patience with this design, it seems so easy that I'm embarrassed that it took me so long to get it right.
> This one is yellow heart with walnut for the celtic cross. The cross pieces were cut and glued in on a forty five degree angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder and walnut.
> It actually was not turning out at all like I wanted. So when I realized it was going to look terrible the way it was going, I reversed the blank on the back end of the pen to make the swoops opposite each other. That change in mid-stream, while it wasn't exactly the look I was going for, I think saved the pen from complete failure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, since I had the celtic cross figured out and had one with dark in light contrast, I wanted to make one on the opposite end of the spectrum. So here is one in red heart with box elder cross pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is a different take on a design I've done several time. I usually make a double curve along the length of the whole pen. I was just wondering what adding more curves to the mix would produce. I like this design very much and actually started thinking of some other variations I may try in the near future.
> This one is purple heart with a box elder strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I admit that I really don't know where my thought process was going with this one. It looked magnificent in my mind. I think it turned out kind of plainer than I imagined though. It is a nice pen, but I don't think it is nice enough to revisit the awkward glue up process it took to make it.
> It is made of sweet gum and the strips are walnut and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is one of the scrap wood pens. Actually, it is entirely scrap wood. Each and every piece of this particular pen came out of my scrap bucket. All I done was cut some notches in some of the pieces, stacked other pieces of scraps on top of it, and then took it apart and rebuilt it one piece at a time, in between waiting on other glue ups, and glued the pieces together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my other scrap wood pen. This one is not completely scrap wood. I cut notches for this one in a sweet gum blank. Then I glued the little squares of scraps in those notches. I don't know what I was expecting out of this one. I think it did turn out very interesting though. It looks almost like polka-dots to me.
> .
> Were you keeping count?
> I wasn't. I had turned the last pen for the day when I realized that I had met my own challenge and turned all seven pens in a day. I was proud of myself. I was also aware of how bad my back had started hurting. I hate it, but I highly doubt I'll make it to the shop tomorrow, but it felt so good to meet my goal.


I look forward to seeing it Chris.
Did you go look at that article I linked to in my last blog yesterday?


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Personal Challenge*
> 
> I've had a couple of pretty decent days. When that happens, I usually mess it up by over doing things and making myself hurt worse than ever. Well, so it goes. That's exactly what I have done. As I sit here in pain though, I am sort of proud of myself. I sort of made myself a personal challenge, and I succeeded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It started with yesterday. I wanted to see how many blanks I could prepare in one day. That was not all of the challenge though. I did not want to simply throw together two simple pieces of wood. I wanted to make interesting blanks. Then, whatever blanks I was able to make in one day, I wanted to see if I could turn them all in one more day.
> In my mind, I was thinking I would aim for five blanks. Well, without putting much though into it, while waiting for some glue ups to set so I could add more, like on the celtic cross designs, I started playing around with pieces in my scrap bucket and glued up two extra blanks. That made for seven blanks total. That is when I realized I had actually put myself in a predicament if I was planning on doing them all in one day. I still wanted to go through with trying anyway. ﻿
> So, today I went to the shop to see if I was up to the challenge. I'll start left to right in the above photo of pen blanks and tell you about each one. Let's see how far I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have the celtic cross design beat now. Once I learned that the biggest obstacle is patience with this design, it seems so easy that I'm embarrassed that it took me so long to get it right.
> This one is yellow heart with walnut for the celtic cross. The cross pieces were cut and glued in on a forty five degree angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder and walnut.
> It actually was not turning out at all like I wanted. So when I realized it was going to look terrible the way it was going, I reversed the blank on the back end of the pen to make the swoops opposite each other. That change in mid-stream, while it wasn't exactly the look I was going for, I think saved the pen from complete failure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, since I had the celtic cross figured out and had one with dark in light contrast, I wanted to make one on the opposite end of the spectrum. So here is one in red heart with box elder cross pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is a different take on a design I've done several time. I usually make a double curve along the length of the whole pen. I was just wondering what adding more curves to the mix would produce. I like this design very much and actually started thinking of some other variations I may try in the near future.
> This one is purple heart with a box elder strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I admit that I really don't know where my thought process was going with this one. It looked magnificent in my mind. I think it turned out kind of plainer than I imagined though. It is a nice pen, but I don't think it is nice enough to revisit the awkward glue up process it took to make it.
> It is made of sweet gum and the strips are walnut and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is one of the scrap wood pens. Actually, it is entirely scrap wood. Each and every piece of this particular pen came out of my scrap bucket. All I done was cut some notches in some of the pieces, stacked other pieces of scraps on top of it, and then took it apart and rebuilt it one piece at a time, in between waiting on other glue ups, and glued the pieces together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my other scrap wood pen. This one is not completely scrap wood. I cut notches for this one in a sweet gum blank. Then I glued the little squares of scraps in those notches. I don't know what I was expecting out of this one. I think it did turn out very interesting though. It looks almost like polka-dots to me.
> .
> Were you keeping count?
> I wasn't. I had turned the last pen for the day when I realized that I had met my own challenge and turned all seven pens in a day. I was proud of myself. I was also aware of how bad my back had started hurting. I hate it, but I highly doubt I'll make it to the shop tomorrow, but it felt so good to meet my goal.


William, 
I like the design on the 3rd one (from the bottom). Looks very pleasing to my eye.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *A Personal Challenge*
> 
> I've had a couple of pretty decent days. When that happens, I usually mess it up by over doing things and making myself hurt worse than ever. Well, so it goes. That's exactly what I have done. As I sit here in pain though, I am sort of proud of myself. I sort of made myself a personal challenge, and I succeeded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It started with yesterday. I wanted to see how many blanks I could prepare in one day. That was not all of the challenge though. I did not want to simply throw together two simple pieces of wood. I wanted to make interesting blanks. Then, whatever blanks I was able to make in one day, I wanted to see if I could turn them all in one more day.
> In my mind, I was thinking I would aim for five blanks. Well, without putting much though into it, while waiting for some glue ups to set so I could add more, like on the celtic cross designs, I started playing around with pieces in my scrap bucket and glued up two extra blanks. That made for seven blanks total. That is when I realized I had actually put myself in a predicament if I was planning on doing them all in one day. I still wanted to go through with trying anyway. ﻿
> So, today I went to the shop to see if I was up to the challenge. I'll start left to right in the above photo of pen blanks and tell you about each one. Let's see how far I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have the celtic cross design beat now. Once I learned that the biggest obstacle is patience with this design, it seems so easy that I'm embarrassed that it took me so long to get it right.
> This one is yellow heart with walnut for the celtic cross. The cross pieces were cut and glued in on a forty five degree angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder and walnut.
> It actually was not turning out at all like I wanted. So when I realized it was going to look terrible the way it was going, I reversed the blank on the back end of the pen to make the swoops opposite each other. That change in mid-stream, while it wasn't exactly the look I was going for, I think saved the pen from complete failure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, since I had the celtic cross figured out and had one with dark in light contrast, I wanted to make one on the opposite end of the spectrum. So here is one in red heart with box elder cross pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is a different take on a design I've done several time. I usually make a double curve along the length of the whole pen. I was just wondering what adding more curves to the mix would produce. I like this design very much and actually started thinking of some other variations I may try in the near future.
> This one is purple heart with a box elder strip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I admit that I really don't know where my thought process was going with this one. It looked magnificent in my mind. I think it turned out kind of plainer than I imagined though. It is a nice pen, but I don't think it is nice enough to revisit the awkward glue up process it took to make it.
> It is made of sweet gum and the strips are walnut and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is one of the scrap wood pens. Actually, it is entirely scrap wood. Each and every piece of this particular pen came out of my scrap bucket. All I done was cut some notches in some of the pieces, stacked other pieces of scraps on top of it, and then took it apart and rebuilt it one piece at a time, in between waiting on other glue ups, and glued the pieces together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my other scrap wood pen. This one is not completely scrap wood. I cut notches for this one in a sweet gum blank. Then I glued the little squares of scraps in those notches. I don't know what I was expecting out of this one. I think it did turn out very interesting though. It looks almost like polka-dots to me.
> .
> Were you keeping count?
> I wasn't. I had turned the last pen for the day when I realized that I had met my own challenge and turned all seven pens in a day. I was proud of myself. I was also aware of how bad my back had started hurting. I hate it, but I highly doubt I'll make it to the shop tomorrow, but it felt so good to meet my goal.


Lew, I've had a couple of other people tell me they liked that pen. I think the beauty of that one is perhaps in it's simplicity.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Counting Blessings*

Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens. 
First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world. 
All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way. 
I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens. 
I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
Anyway, back to the present. 








With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
















This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other. 
















This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning. 
















This one is padauk and box elder.
















This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good. 
All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.








Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
.
Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.








Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.








I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.








So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy. 
While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.








Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.








It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
















So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.

















That brings me to Andy's pen. 
This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
.
My day of counting blessings did not end there though.








This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.








These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.








Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.








Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
But…........
























I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out. 
Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?

Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


----------



## ssnvet

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


They look great William..

Very nice work!


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


Glad you are having fun with your new woods. That hedge is pretty but I haven't found a way to keep it from turning dark pretty quickly. I even tried Spar urethane that is supposed to block UV light. But even after it turns dark, it still has that cool shimmer. The mulberry seems to retain it's yellow color. I can't compete with those cool boxes Jeff sent (that CNC is cool). Enjoy!


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


William,
You WERE gifted and ARE gifted!

You're able to bring the true beauty out of some awesome wood and made stunning patterns from the leftovers. I think people have been generous because they NEED to see what you'll come up with next!!!

All I can say is carry on, I'm enjoying the journey. Thanks for taking me along!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


Thank you all.

Randy, it is that kind of encouragement that keeps me trying hard as I can to keep coming up with something different. Whether you realize it or not, even your good natured ribbing and support helps me along on those days that I have trouble keeping on keeping on.

Andy, I will be sending this pen to you pretty quickly. It is finished with CA glue. We'll have to see how it holds up with that finish. If it helps though, I'm not sure how you'd apply CA finish on boxes. Better yet, I'm not sure if you could afford to put CA finish on boxes. It would take quite a bit to cover a box, and this stuff runs about five bucks an ounce. 
I much appreciate woods like these. I have never even seen hedge apple around here, even at the hardwood supplier I go to. I love working with woods I wouldn't ordinarily get to work with.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


William that took me a while to get through. I had to stop along the way and look real hard at your work. You are doing some very nice stuff. Oh by the way the preacher signed my daughters marriage license with the pen you made me. 
Jeff is up to being his kind self.
Nice work, good friends and a great day.
Peace and no pain William.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


Hey William, another fine looking batch of pens…amazing really..you've got those Celtic knots down to a science.

Glad you like the goodies, and yes, I did consider that you wood find a way to make something out of those otherwise useless little chucks of spalted maple….amazing again.

Nice looking lot of wood from Andy also…....can't wait to see what's next!


----------



## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


Good morning William,

This was a great way to start my day. Keep turning, and keep writing.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


William, What more can I say then WOW, again. I saw your post pop up on my phone this morning but knew I would want to be sitting at a larger screen to look at it. The pens look great, I love the stuff you are doing and you are also a great encouragement to my self and I am sure a few others around here. Not sure if you saw my latest blog but I did a small amount of segmenting a curved piece into one of my necklaces. Once I get a few other items completed for the upcoming craft fairs I am looking forward to doing a bit more experimenting.

Look forward to your next post.

CtL


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


Beautiful pens, William.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


William, Question for ya regarding your non-Centerband pens… are you cutting them a different length then the standard pen kit tubes? 
Thanks

CtL


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


Your blog was very nice William and it says a lot about the values of the folks who contribute so much to LJ and others too. That last pen is very very special and it is my favorite of all the ones you have shown us to date. It's wonderful to have such a passion for turning these pens and it's always interesting to see what you come up with. Keep up the good work!


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


Beautiful job on all the pens, William!
I have a piece of spalted maple just like you described. You have given me the courage to make something from it, thanks!


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


William, I have lots of hedge "chunks" like I sent you so just let me know when you need more. Either you get em or they go in the woodstove next winter! How bout the mulberry? Look like what you were after? Got lots of that but it is buried pretty deep in the pile.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


Thank you all very much.
I am going to try my best to answer some questions. If I miss any, please don't hesitate to point me to anything I need to answer.

Dave, 
I feel priviledged now that something I made had a part in your daughter's wedding. I feel honored. Thank you.

Jeff, that spalted maple pen is yours, and I have the other blank soaking in a coat of CA glue as I type this so I can turn one for myself since I like it a lot myself. Is the address on the box you mailed this in the correct address to ship things to you?

Sandra,
Thank you. I am glad you enjoy reading my ramblings.

Chris,
I have not seen your blog post, but will try my best to make a point of doing so before going to bed tonight.

Erwin,
Thank you as always.

Chris, again,
On the non-center band pens, I cut the blanks the same length as the tubes. There is planty enough clearance in the rear tube to simply eliminate the ring and still press everything together properly. 
The way I do it just like turning any other slim line pen. I do not use the bushing between the two blanks though. put the blanks together on the mandrel. Turn the pen to the shape you want with both ends to size with the bushings. 
Now, I am going to tell you something that is probably obvious, but the first time I made one, I did not think about it. After you turn and sand your pen, and are ready for finish, stop. Remove one of the tubes and put a bushing between them before applying finish, especially if you're using CA glue. If you do not, you will do what I done, and glue the two blanks together, rendering the finished pen useless. 
Oh, one more thing, use your method of choice, but the blank ends, especially the ones at the center of the pen, have to be PERFECTLY straight with the tubes. Any gaps will be even more apparant than normal without the center band.

Mike, 
thank you. It is a great group of guys here. You are among those great guys. In the beginning, you pointed me to so many links to great info, articles, and videos, to get me going. Thank you so much.

Lew,
The spalted maple was a challenge and a half. Take your time and, if things start seeming iffy, load it down with CA glue to keep things held together without flying apart.

Andy,
I have a mulberry blank ready to turn that I glued up today. So my next blog installment should tell you how I like it. 
As for the hedge, I swear I'm going to cry if I find out it went into the wood stove. At the moment, I think that is my favorite wood of all of them I've turned so far. It is not only beautiful, but a pleasure to work with. I would love to get my hands on all of it I could get, and I have room for it too.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


William, I'll split you off some chunks of hedge. Can't stand to see a grown man cry! That is all my buddy in Kansas burns in his stove.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


William thanks for the info and the tips. I am going to try a few bandless in the next batch of pens I do.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


No problem Chris.
Here is an article for another type pen I like. You may want to try a few. I haven't sold any, so I stopped doing them until I get a feel of how people like them. They allow for a solid piece of wood along the length of the pen, still using the slim line kit. They are interesting and I enjoyed doing them.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


William…...you know I sent you a long grain spalted maple blank too….....but NO…....you got to turn the short grain ones…..! I saved those shorts when I made "The Maples" but never thought anything wood come out of it. You are the man…..

I wood be honored to have another one of your pens, but that was not my goal…..But I have to admit, that I do gloat to my friends and family the cool pens, frames, hooks and such that I've gotten from my Mississippi friends…....


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


I like the long grain one too, but the short ones looked like more of a challenge.

I know it was not your goal for me to make you another pen, but you gotta realize I have really went through a lot to get these turned. They are not at all as easy to turn as it seems. So I have to send the buddy who gave me the wood one and keep one for myself. I'm not letting anyone else get these pens.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


William, I know they were not easy to turn….....I just admire the fact that you did! Really..! Honestly, I was looking around the shop for things to fill the box up with….and I saw the spalted maple….I save everything, but short grain cutoffs, even if they are cool….are mostly worthless. I did make a point to mark the grain on those to be sure you didn't miss it….you made it righteous.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


Way awesome William. Lookin very awesome


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Counting Blessings*
> 
> Today's post is quite a lengthy one. It covers several days work. I did not post daily because I have had something on my mind. I have been thinking of all that I have been blessed with since I started turning pens.
> First of all, I love turning pens. I'm sure that has become obvious. The thing I love about it most is the fact that I get the chance to work with so many different beautiful materials that I otherwise would never get to use. That is just the beginning though.
> What brought me to thinking of all this? Well I will get to that, but first, I'd like to just start with an overview of all the generosity that has been shown to me since I started turning.
> I had an old piece of crap lathe. It wasn't working out and I found out the spindle was bent. So a friend gave me a lathe.
> Then I mentioned that I was interested in pen turning and started experimenting with store bought pen parts. A friend sent me a hundred dollar gift card to get me started with buying proper kits and equipment.
> Next, other friends found out about my interest and several of those friends have sent me woods of different species from all over the world.
> All this is in addition to the moral support, advice, and all the online help a guy could ever hope for along the way.
> I even had another friend who sent me some mesh sandpaper that I had never even heard of which has now become my go to choice for preparing for finishing pens.
> I may have left out a detail or two there. I've been so blessed with all the support I've gotten that I am truly overwhelmed with gratitude. I have no words to express the thanks I owe so many people who have helped me with this adventure.
> Anyway, back to the present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all this going on a couple of days ago, I forgot to take a photo of the blanks before I started turning pens. Here are the three that were left when I did think about it though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is walnut and box elder. If you've been reading my blogs and remember the blanks I've made with a double curve line, this one is similar, but an experiment with two lines opposing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is purple heart and yellow heart. I got this idea from a photo that was sent to me by a reader of my blog.
> It was after this pen that I thought about taking a photo of the blanks. I do apologize for that. I've been told by a couple of readers that they like seeing the blanks so they can see what blanks look like before the turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is padauk and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one was one of my wild ideas that turned out pretty good.
> All the time, while preparing blanks, I often have thin strips of wood left over off the table saw. I've been throwing those strips into a coffee can on one of my tables. I took some of those strips and glued them up just to see how they would turn out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, I like the pen my reader gave me the idea for so much that I made a similar one from ziricote and yellow heart.
> .
> Now I must back up to the original thought that began this blog post, the generosity that others have shown so much of to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Early on, while turning all the pens I showed above, the mail delivery ran. When I stopped to take my medicine at noon, I went to the house and there was a package by my door.
> This came from a good friend, Andy. He sent me some beautiful wood. There is mesquite, black cherry, elm, hedge apple, mulberry, and I'm probably leaving a couple out. There was a lot of beautiful wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I immediately had to cut some of it up. These were again woods I had never worked with and had to get a better view of what wonderful grain patterns I was working with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So before the day was over, I had to take a piece of that hedge apple, which is some of most brilliant color I've ever seen in wood, and start on a pen for Andy.
> While I was at it, I glued up the rest of those scrap strips I had mentioned earlier for another idea I had on my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the results of my idea. The middle blanks was the idea I was working on. The bottom blank is a result of the left over material from that idea. The top blank is Andy's pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a good thing that the bottom blank in the above photo is left over, because before I could get it to a pen, I had a pretty bad blow out on it. With a blow out this bad, about all you can do is turn it down to the tubes and, hopefully, save them to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that made me more cautious when turning the original pen blank I was trying for. Actually, I had a blowout on this one too. However, it happen early enough that I was able to flip that side of the blank and save the overall pen. This is made from sapelle and maple strips that are off cuts from past projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That brings me to Andy's pen.
> This is an absolutely beautiful wood, and it is a joy to work with too. It is a very hard wood, which is actually great for turning in my opinion. The yellowish wood is hedge apple. Some people call this osage orange. I'm not sure about that name, because to me it is simply a more brilliant yellow than even yellow heart. It is absolutely stunning. The celtic knot is walnut strips spliced in at a sixty degree angle.
> .
> My day of counting blessings did not end there though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the package came by way of UPS. This came from my buddy Jeff. He sent me rosewood, wenge, maple, some spalted maple, and a real treat, the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are boxes that Jeff has made for me and two other friends. The boxes are nice, but the attention to detail make them beyond what I can possibly describe in words. They are a work of art in themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my box with two pens I turned sitting in it on pen blocks. Jeff sent the pen blocks too. He has given me full permission to copy his design or come up with a design of my own. Either way I decide to go, I am going to work at this. It will be an added feature I'll be able to offer while trying to sell pens. Also, for a fee, I will be able to send off lids to be carved with details as nice as the ones on these boxes. Even with the extra cost, I think some people may like that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to the wood though, have any of you wood workers ever seen a piece of wood that you just couldn't get off your mind?
> While I was finishing up the other pens I showed above, this particular piece of the spalted maple stayed on my mind.
> This piece of wood is actually a terrible piece of wood to turn. It has cracking. It has busted out areas. It has some parts where I stuck an awl into to check that were so punky that it almost felt like a sponge. The grain runs across it instead of along the length. For all that it had wrong with it though, it also was absolutely stunning in appearance. Sometimes nature produces something nicer than anything I could possibly glue up.
> I won't bore you with all I had to go through to get this turned without completely ruining it. I will tell you I used a lot (I mean a LOT) of CA glue. I practically had to soak some area in it to stabilize it enough that it wouldn't fly apart on the lathe.
> But…........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if Jeff knew it or not, but he sent me something else that I love more than anything, a challenge. This blank was a big challenge, but I love how it turned out.
> Jeff, please make sure I have your proper address. I'm not sure if the address on the package you sent is your work address or not. Should I sent packages there, or is there another address?
> 
> Again, I'd like to thank all who have supported me in my turning adventures. Without the help I have recieved from such good people, there is no way I would have moved so fast to where I am now with this. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


Thank you Roger.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*More Fun And Challenges*

I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem. 
Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?








Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.








The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first. 








Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?








Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?








I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
















Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning. 








Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.








Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.








This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
















The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.








The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
























It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.








That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips. 
Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
So I wondered what I could find in this?








Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected. 








I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
















Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.








Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.








Hey! You can't win them all.
I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Fun And Challenges*
> 
> I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem.
> Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
> Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
> Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
> In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
> It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
> The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips.
> Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
> So I wondered what I could find in this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! You can't win them all.
> I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


I am so glad you like the hedge and mulberry. The hedge will darken quite a bit. The mulberry seems to stay yellow. I honestly think the hedge is my favorite of all you have done.


----------



## StumpyNubs

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Fun And Challenges*
> 
> I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem.
> Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
> Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
> Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
> In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
> It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
> The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips.
> Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
> So I wondered what I could find in this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! You can't win them all.
> I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


WOW, I am really impressed, William. Great work!


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Fun And Challenges*
> 
> I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem.
> Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
> Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
> Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
> In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
> It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
> The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips.
> Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
> So I wondered what I could find in this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! You can't win them all.
> I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


Have you worked with lignum vitae, tulip wood or Florida rosewood? I'll be bringing a variety of different species that I have. Looking forward to our trip.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Fun And Challenges*
> 
> I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem.
> Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
> Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
> Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
> In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
> It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
> The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips.
> Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
> So I wondered what I could find in this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! You can't win them all.
> I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


Well that's another amazing display of goodies there William…..don't even know where to start…..wow.

The pens you made for the box are stellar…..good choice. The Mulberry is cool, never really seen that before….good call Andy…..Glad you still got your fingers, that's kinda scary…...the long grain Spalted Maple looks killer…..you nailed it.

The Cherry Burl…..still not sure how you managed to get pens out of that…..but cool. And too bad the Wenge was a bust…..it pretty cool wood sometimes…..maybe for an accent…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Fun And Challenges*
> 
> I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem.
> Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
> Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
> Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
> In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
> It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
> The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips.
> Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
> So I wondered what I could find in this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! You can't win them all.
> I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


Thank you all.

Andy, I like the hedge myself. The yellow heart and mulberry look pretty, but the hedge, as it is now, simply glows.

Thanks Stumps.

Erwin, I have never worked with lignum vitae or tulip wood. As for the rosewood, I don't know. I've worked with a couple of different things that I've heard people call rose wood, like the cocobolo. I'm a little lost about what all species of rose wood there is. I keep reading and trying to understand it though.
I look forward to your trip as well.

Jeff, thank you, for the compliments and the woods. 
As for the close call with the burning wire, no worries. I learned early on in turning, anything that can potentially wrap around a turning piece, take exta precautions with it. When you least expect it, something will catch. 
The cherry burl, I am becoming better and better at getting blanks out of the least likely pieces. I enjoyed working with the burl. I have more for future adventures with that.
The wenge, I am thinking the same thing, accent pieces. It is dark as the ziricote, which is one of my favorite accent woods in contrast with lighter woods.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Fun And Challenges*
> 
> I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem.
> Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
> Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
> Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
> In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
> It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
> The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips.
> Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
> So I wondered what I could find in this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! You can't win them all.
> I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


Great stuff William!

You found fitting goods to occupy that gorgeous box.
However, you can't keep stealing all the pen profits!!!


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Fun And Challenges*
> 
> I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem.
> Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
> Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
> Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
> In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
> It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
> The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips.
> Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
> So I wondered what I could find in this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! You can't win them all.
> I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


yes sir william, you have some really beautiful pens, and hey, ya win some and loose some, live and learn, but over all i would say your winning more then the other, so keep at it…im glad you have switched your wire burning method, otherwise you would be related to ole stumpy nubs…lol…which might not be so bad, you would get some of his big money….lol…..just kidding stumpy….dont do a video now cuz i said that….well william , im loving your new venture here…although your scrolling skills might be getting kinda weak…..but i think there probably just fine…you sure have some pretty wood there, i need to make a few friends like you have…...good night amigo.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Fun And Challenges*
> 
> I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem.
> Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
> Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
> Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
> In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
> It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
> The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips.
> Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
> So I wondered what I could find in this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! You can't win them all.
> I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


Some beautiful stuff there William. Wow!


----------



## GRK

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Fun And Challenges*
> 
> I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem.
> Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
> Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
> Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
> In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
> It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
> The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips.
> Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
> So I wondered what I could find in this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! You can't win them all.
> I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


Beautiful pens William


----------



## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Fun And Challenges*
> 
> I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem.
> Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
> Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
> Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
> In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
> It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
> The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips.
> Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
> So I wondered what I could find in this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! You can't win them all.
> I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


Okay, looks like I completely disagree with you on something for once.
As I was reading along and scrolling down, I stopped dead on the wenge.
While the other pens are very nice with the contrasting wood, this one is classy classy classy! Not to minimize the work you've done on the other pens that might be more challenging/rewarding, but this one is tops.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Fun And Challenges*
> 
> I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem.
> Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
> Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
> Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
> In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
> It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
> The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips.
> Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
> So I wondered what I could find in this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! You can't win them all.
> I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


Randy,
Thanks, but since I am the one making the pens, I'm allowed to steal as much as I want.

Grizz,
I know I haven't done a scrolling piece in a while. I sit at the saw and do test pieces from time to time just to make sure I can. Then I get back to the lathe. I think someone told me once or twice that wood turning was addictive. 
As for the wire, I again BEG anyone who hasn't made handles for their wire to do so. 
Another lesson is what do you all use to apply finish and such? I used to use cotton rags. Nowadays, anything stronger than paper towels never gets near my lathe. I seen a video dealing with this one and it was gruesome. Did you know that a half horse lathe can snatch a finger clean off?

Roger,
Your compliments always mean a lot to me because you do such superior work yourself. Thank you.

Gary,
Thank you.

Sandra,
I'm glad you like the wenge pen so much. If there is a feasible way for you, I'd be glad to send it to you. You know the issues we mentioned before, but I sure would like to send you one. 
It's no problem about disagreeing either. I don't always make a fuss about it, but some of my least favorite pens that I've made, others have went crazy over. Everyone doesn't like the same thing.


----------



## Chips

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Fun And Challenges*
> 
> I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem.
> Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
> Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
> Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
> In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
> It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
> The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips.
> Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
> So I wondered what I could find in this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! You can't win them all.
> I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


Your creativity is amazing. Love them all. I was hoping the burl would have more usable wood in it. You never know. Thanks for stopping by the other day. I had stopped early because what I was doing was not working. Your tip make it easy, fast, and perfect. Thanks


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Fun And Challenges*
> 
> I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem.
> Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
> Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
> Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
> In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
> It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
> The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips.
> Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
> So I wondered what I could find in this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! You can't win them all.
> I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


Thanks Chips. I'm glad to hear you got that problem worked out. I hope to get over there in the next couple of days for more of that pipe to try turning.


----------



## mochoa

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Fun And Challenges*
> 
> I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem.
> Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
> Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
> Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
> In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
> It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
> The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips.
> Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
> So I wondered what I could find in this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! You can't win them all.
> I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


Some Fantastic pens William!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Fun And Challenges*
> 
> I have to apologize for today's (again) very lengthy post. It started with six pen blanks. Then I was not able to get them done in one day's time. So it dragged on for a couple of days. I need to start making fewer blanks at once I guess. Another option would be to photograph the blanks separately so I can post daily on just what I do. That would use up even more space though. So I'm torn on how to handle that little problem.
> Anyway, while I figure that out, let's get to it shall we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the six blanks I mentioned. As usual though, there is more to the story on some of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one I made was the other cross grained spalted maple that my buddy had sent me. I think this one turned out to be an even bigger challenge than the first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next was the hedge apple with the sixty degree celtic knot of walnut.
> Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you've already seen these recently, so why do them again, and show them again, so soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that fancy box my friend sent me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had decided that I liked these two pens so much, that the reason I made them again so soon was, these are now my own personal pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up was the mulberry. The mulberry reminds me a lot of yellow heart. It is a beautiful wood, but is kind of plain without some kind of accent to it. So I added a square of ziricote to the center of the blank before turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of the similarities between yellow heart and mulberry, my friend had sent me this because he said that yellow heart I'd made such a fuss about recently looked a lot like mulberry to him. So here is a side by side comparison of the three yellowish woods. From left to right is mulberry, yellow heart, and hedge apple.
> Andy is right, turned, the yellow heart and mulberry look almost identical. They look so much alike that I want to do some research soon as to what the differences are in these two woods, if any. They both look, turn, and smell the same. If I find out anything about this mystery, I'll be sure to report back.
> In the meantime, Andy, I absolutely love the mulberry. Again, since I have never seen mulberry or yellow heart locally, it is a special treat to me to be able to work with these woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I had noticed that I had several sixty degree knots in lighter woods, but none the opposite. So I decided to try one in jatoba, another wood I had never turned before.
> It actually turned out beautifully, until I messed up. The front end of the pen looked a tad too plain to me compared to the rear with the celtic knot. So I got the bright idea of burning some lines.
> The wire somehow caught, broke the wire, and messed up the pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is left of the burn wire. I still have not found all of it after it violently slung across my shop. I am here to beg all of you wood turners who are holding wire with your fingers to burn lines, and I know this because I used to do it that way, please make some handles like you see in this photo. Yes, my wire is broken, but not my fingers. If I had been holding the wire wrapped around my fingers like I used to, I'd be lucky to have all ten of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two pens in the blank batch you've also seen before. I just decided to go ahead and get these two turned to get them off my bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The friend who sent me the cross grained spalted maple? He also sent me a piece of long grain. I decided I just couldn't wait to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out beautifully. Actually, I think this one may be a little nicer. It has a lighter color because I was able to turn it without completely saturating it in glue to hold it together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That evening I decided to go see another friend of mine, Chips.
> Chips gave me this piece of cherry burl. I was anxious to cut into this. I've never worked with any kind of burl in raw form. I know from reading that it's like a Christmas present. You never know what's inside until you cut into it.
> So I wondered what I could find in this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that didn't look at all like I expected. Then again, I'm not sure what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to be able to get five continuous inches of blank material when possible. I was not able to get that out of any of the burl pieces. So instead, I looked it over good and matched up two short length blanks the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, with all that careful matching, I had a major blowout and wound up having to flip one piece so the blown out area could be turned off the back end to shape the pen. I still think it turned out to be an extraordinary piece though. As I've said before, sometimes nature creates looks more beautiful than anything I could possibly glue up in a blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last pen for this post, the same friend who had sent the box you seen earlier in this post, he sent me several pieces of wenge. This wood intrigued me. It varied from almost black to a chocolaty brown color. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to know what it would look like as a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! You can't win them all.
> I do not like this pen at all. Believe it or not, it was a beautiful contrast in it that drew the eye in after sanding it to a smooth finish. Then I put a CA glue finish on it, and the lighter colors in the contrast turned almost as dark as the darker areas, leaving a pretty bland looking pen. I think I have enough of this for two more pens. I think I will try again at a later date, with a different finish than the CA glue I normally use.


Thank you Maurico.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Pen Boxes*

Not exactly actual turning on the lathe, but since it is for my turned pen, I thought it belonged in the "As The Lathe Turns" series anyway. So here goes.








I've already gotten a couple of emails about how the jig I posted yesterday could possibly have anything to do with making a pen box. 
The long piece on the right has knobs underneath to make it adjustable. I put one part of a box in place, tap that clamp block against the part, and tighten the knobs to hold it in place. I have ink pen markings on the jig for several different size boxes. The part on the left, the one you see the knobs on, is an adjustable fence for a router to ride against. Again, I have markings for it to do several different sizes. The pieces that stick out the bottom and top of the jig are also adjustable from underneath. They are stop blocks for where you want the routed holes to start and end. 
I am glad to report, I made two boxes today, so I can show you the box style.








I made two boxes. One is made of sapelle and one of sycamore.
They are each made of two pieces of wood. Each piece is six and a half inches long, two and a half inches wide, and three quarters of an inch thick. I set the router to cut three eighths of an inch deep with a three quarter inch bull nose bit. Then I set my jig to route the groove in each piece exactly in the center of each piece, starting and stopping a half inch from the ends. 








After making the two pieces on the jig, and marking and predrilling holes for the hinges, I move to my table router, with a quarter inch round over bit, and smooth over the sharp edges. Next I mark and drill a three eighths hole in each piece so I can glue in a magnet on each piece that will hold the box shut. Then, after sanding everything real good, I install the hinges on it. Lastly, on these two at least, I give the whole thing a good rubdown with Johnson's Past Wax.








I like these boxes. I can make them cheaply enough, and easy enough to offer them as an add on item with my pens. I can sell them for ten dollars with a pen order, or a little more if someone wants to buy just a pen box for some reason. 
Before starting, I set everything up, including my saws, sander, jig, and table router. With everything set up, I can make up one of these boxes in about thirty minutes. I don't think that is bad considering I plan on offering them with pen orders at a price that I really won't be making anything on them. The idea is for this to be a value added product, with my profits coming from the pens themselves. Later, I hope things go well enough that I can branch out into maybe some fancier boxes that I may actually make a profit on in addition to the pens.
Anyway, these were just two I made a point of getting done today so I could show what they would look like. I've got the hardware to make eight more for now, and will get them done as soon as I can get around to it.


----------



## NormG

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pen Boxes*
> 
> Not exactly actual turning on the lathe, but since it is for my turned pen, I thought it belonged in the "As The Lathe Turns" series anyway. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've already gotten a couple of emails about how the jig I posted yesterday could possibly have anything to do with making a pen box.
> The long piece on the right has knobs underneath to make it adjustable. I put one part of a box in place, tap that clamp block against the part, and tighten the knobs to hold it in place. I have ink pen markings on the jig for several different size boxes. The part on the left, the one you see the knobs on, is an adjustable fence for a router to ride against. Again, I have markings for it to do several different sizes. The pieces that stick out the bottom and top of the jig are also adjustable from underneath. They are stop blocks for where you want the routed holes to start and end.
> I am glad to report, I made two boxes today, so I can show you the box style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two boxes. One is made of sapelle and one of sycamore.
> They are each made of two pieces of wood. Each piece is six and a half inches long, two and a half inches wide, and three quarters of an inch thick. I set the router to cut three eighths of an inch deep with a three quarter inch bull nose bit. Then I set my jig to route the groove in each piece exactly in the center of each piece, starting and stopping a half inch from the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two pieces on the jig, and marking and predrilling holes for the hinges, I move to my table router, with a quarter inch round over bit, and smooth over the sharp edges. Next I mark and drill a three eighths hole in each piece so I can glue in a magnet on each piece that will hold the box shut. Then, after sanding everything real good, I install the hinges on it. Lastly, on these two at least, I give the whole thing a good rubdown with Johnson's Past Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like these boxes. I can make them cheaply enough, and easy enough to offer them as an add on item with my pens. I can sell them for ten dollars with a pen order, or a little more if someone wants to buy just a pen box for some reason.
> Before starting, I set everything up, including my saws, sander, jig, and table router. With everything set up, I can make up one of these boxes in about thirty minutes. I don't think that is bad considering I plan on offering them with pen orders at a price that I really won't be making anything on them. The idea is for this to be a value added product, with my profits coming from the pens themselves. Later, I hope things go well enough that I can branch out into maybe some fancier boxes that I may actually make a profit on in addition to the pens.
> Anyway, these were just two I made a point of getting done today so I could show what they would look like. I've got the hardware to make eight more for now, and will get them done as soon as I can get around to it.


Great jig and wonderful boxes


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pen Boxes*
> 
> Not exactly actual turning on the lathe, but since it is for my turned pen, I thought it belonged in the "As The Lathe Turns" series anyway. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've already gotten a couple of emails about how the jig I posted yesterday could possibly have anything to do with making a pen box.
> The long piece on the right has knobs underneath to make it adjustable. I put one part of a box in place, tap that clamp block against the part, and tighten the knobs to hold it in place. I have ink pen markings on the jig for several different size boxes. The part on the left, the one you see the knobs on, is an adjustable fence for a router to ride against. Again, I have markings for it to do several different sizes. The pieces that stick out the bottom and top of the jig are also adjustable from underneath. They are stop blocks for where you want the routed holes to start and end.
> I am glad to report, I made two boxes today, so I can show you the box style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two boxes. One is made of sapelle and one of sycamore.
> They are each made of two pieces of wood. Each piece is six and a half inches long, two and a half inches wide, and three quarters of an inch thick. I set the router to cut three eighths of an inch deep with a three quarter inch bull nose bit. Then I set my jig to route the groove in each piece exactly in the center of each piece, starting and stopping a half inch from the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two pieces on the jig, and marking and predrilling holes for the hinges, I move to my table router, with a quarter inch round over bit, and smooth over the sharp edges. Next I mark and drill a three eighths hole in each piece so I can glue in a magnet on each piece that will hold the box shut. Then, after sanding everything real good, I install the hinges on it. Lastly, on these two at least, I give the whole thing a good rubdown with Johnson's Past Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like these boxes. I can make them cheaply enough, and easy enough to offer them as an add on item with my pens. I can sell them for ten dollars with a pen order, or a little more if someone wants to buy just a pen box for some reason.
> Before starting, I set everything up, including my saws, sander, jig, and table router. With everything set up, I can make up one of these boxes in about thirty minutes. I don't think that is bad considering I plan on offering them with pen orders at a price that I really won't be making anything on them. The idea is for this to be a value added product, with my profits coming from the pens themselves. Later, I hope things go well enough that I can branch out into maybe some fancier boxes that I may actually make a profit on in addition to the pens.
> Anyway, these were just two I made a point of getting done today so I could show what they would look like. I've got the hardware to make eight more for now, and will get them done as soon as I can get around to it.


Sounds as if you are gearing up for some production runs of pens and boxes….
Will you be calling your product….
a William Penn??? ;^)


----------



## RichCMD

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pen Boxes*
> 
> Not exactly actual turning on the lathe, but since it is for my turned pen, I thought it belonged in the "As The Lathe Turns" series anyway. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've already gotten a couple of emails about how the jig I posted yesterday could possibly have anything to do with making a pen box.
> The long piece on the right has knobs underneath to make it adjustable. I put one part of a box in place, tap that clamp block against the part, and tighten the knobs to hold it in place. I have ink pen markings on the jig for several different size boxes. The part on the left, the one you see the knobs on, is an adjustable fence for a router to ride against. Again, I have markings for it to do several different sizes. The pieces that stick out the bottom and top of the jig are also adjustable from underneath. They are stop blocks for where you want the routed holes to start and end.
> I am glad to report, I made two boxes today, so I can show you the box style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two boxes. One is made of sapelle and one of sycamore.
> They are each made of two pieces of wood. Each piece is six and a half inches long, two and a half inches wide, and three quarters of an inch thick. I set the router to cut three eighths of an inch deep with a three quarter inch bull nose bit. Then I set my jig to route the groove in each piece exactly in the center of each piece, starting and stopping a half inch from the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two pieces on the jig, and marking and predrilling holes for the hinges, I move to my table router, with a quarter inch round over bit, and smooth over the sharp edges. Next I mark and drill a three eighths hole in each piece so I can glue in a magnet on each piece that will hold the box shut. Then, after sanding everything real good, I install the hinges on it. Lastly, on these two at least, I give the whole thing a good rubdown with Johnson's Past Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like these boxes. I can make them cheaply enough, and easy enough to offer them as an add on item with my pens. I can sell them for ten dollars with a pen order, or a little more if someone wants to buy just a pen box for some reason.
> Before starting, I set everything up, including my saws, sander, jig, and table router. With everything set up, I can make up one of these boxes in about thirty minutes. I don't think that is bad considering I plan on offering them with pen orders at a price that I really won't be making anything on them. The idea is for this to be a value added product, with my profits coming from the pens themselves. Later, I hope things go well enough that I can branch out into maybe some fancier boxes that I may actually make a profit on in addition to the pens.
> Anyway, these were just two I made a point of getting done today so I could show what they would look like. I've got the hardware to make eight more for now, and will get them done as soon as I can get around to it.


Nice boxes. They certainly make the pens more desirable as gifts, etc.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pen Boxes*
> 
> Not exactly actual turning on the lathe, but since it is for my turned pen, I thought it belonged in the "As The Lathe Turns" series anyway. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've already gotten a couple of emails about how the jig I posted yesterday could possibly have anything to do with making a pen box.
> The long piece on the right has knobs underneath to make it adjustable. I put one part of a box in place, tap that clamp block against the part, and tighten the knobs to hold it in place. I have ink pen markings on the jig for several different size boxes. The part on the left, the one you see the knobs on, is an adjustable fence for a router to ride against. Again, I have markings for it to do several different sizes. The pieces that stick out the bottom and top of the jig are also adjustable from underneath. They are stop blocks for where you want the routed holes to start and end.
> I am glad to report, I made two boxes today, so I can show you the box style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two boxes. One is made of sapelle and one of sycamore.
> They are each made of two pieces of wood. Each piece is six and a half inches long, two and a half inches wide, and three quarters of an inch thick. I set the router to cut three eighths of an inch deep with a three quarter inch bull nose bit. Then I set my jig to route the groove in each piece exactly in the center of each piece, starting and stopping a half inch from the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two pieces on the jig, and marking and predrilling holes for the hinges, I move to my table router, with a quarter inch round over bit, and smooth over the sharp edges. Next I mark and drill a three eighths hole in each piece so I can glue in a magnet on each piece that will hold the box shut. Then, after sanding everything real good, I install the hinges on it. Lastly, on these two at least, I give the whole thing a good rubdown with Johnson's Past Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like these boxes. I can make them cheaply enough, and easy enough to offer them as an add on item with my pens. I can sell them for ten dollars with a pen order, or a little more if someone wants to buy just a pen box for some reason.
> Before starting, I set everything up, including my saws, sander, jig, and table router. With everything set up, I can make up one of these boxes in about thirty minutes. I don't think that is bad considering I plan on offering them with pen orders at a price that I really won't be making anything on them. The idea is for this to be a value added product, with my profits coming from the pens themselves. Later, I hope things go well enough that I can branch out into maybe some fancier boxes that I may actually make a profit on in addition to the pens.
> Anyway, these were just two I made a point of getting done today so I could show what they would look like. I've got the hardware to make eight more for now, and will get them done as soon as I can get around to it.


Thanks for the kind words.
My plan is to market my pens on the internet.
I want everything in place for when I get my website ready to introduce to the world.
I have been looking at other's work and thought that pen boxes would make them, like Rich said, more desireable to buy as gifts. 
I also have other ideas I have seen around that I'm bouncing around in my head, like desk sets, business card holders, etc. 
Eventually, my end goal is to be able to offer whole sets, pen, card holder, desk set, matching pencils, along with other add ons, all with a single theme, sold as sets. For example, if you've seen my pens with the wave designs in them. It would be no more work really to add a similar wave design to all those items I've mentioned, including these boxes, and more.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pen Boxes*
> 
> Not exactly actual turning on the lathe, but since it is for my turned pen, I thought it belonged in the "As The Lathe Turns" series anyway. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've already gotten a couple of emails about how the jig I posted yesterday could possibly have anything to do with making a pen box.
> The long piece on the right has knobs underneath to make it adjustable. I put one part of a box in place, tap that clamp block against the part, and tighten the knobs to hold it in place. I have ink pen markings on the jig for several different size boxes. The part on the left, the one you see the knobs on, is an adjustable fence for a router to ride against. Again, I have markings for it to do several different sizes. The pieces that stick out the bottom and top of the jig are also adjustable from underneath. They are stop blocks for where you want the routed holes to start and end.
> I am glad to report, I made two boxes today, so I can show you the box style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two boxes. One is made of sapelle and one of sycamore.
> They are each made of two pieces of wood. Each piece is six and a half inches long, two and a half inches wide, and three quarters of an inch thick. I set the router to cut three eighths of an inch deep with a three quarter inch bull nose bit. Then I set my jig to route the groove in each piece exactly in the center of each piece, starting and stopping a half inch from the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two pieces on the jig, and marking and predrilling holes for the hinges, I move to my table router, with a quarter inch round over bit, and smooth over the sharp edges. Next I mark and drill a three eighths hole in each piece so I can glue in a magnet on each piece that will hold the box shut. Then, after sanding everything real good, I install the hinges on it. Lastly, on these two at least, I give the whole thing a good rubdown with Johnson's Past Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like these boxes. I can make them cheaply enough, and easy enough to offer them as an add on item with my pens. I can sell them for ten dollars with a pen order, or a little more if someone wants to buy just a pen box for some reason.
> Before starting, I set everything up, including my saws, sander, jig, and table router. With everything set up, I can make up one of these boxes in about thirty minutes. I don't think that is bad considering I plan on offering them with pen orders at a price that I really won't be making anything on them. The idea is for this to be a value added product, with my profits coming from the pens themselves. Later, I hope things go well enough that I can branch out into maybe some fancier boxes that I may actually make a profit on in addition to the pens.
> Anyway, these were just two I made a point of getting done today so I could show what they would look like. I've got the hardware to make eight more for now, and will get them done as soon as I can get around to it.


I like them. The magnets are a bit bright, what do you think about adding a plug or some veneer to cover them up? It would make the way it stays closed less obvious.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pen Boxes*
> 
> Not exactly actual turning on the lathe, but since it is for my turned pen, I thought it belonged in the "As The Lathe Turns" series anyway. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've already gotten a couple of emails about how the jig I posted yesterday could possibly have anything to do with making a pen box.
> The long piece on the right has knobs underneath to make it adjustable. I put one part of a box in place, tap that clamp block against the part, and tighten the knobs to hold it in place. I have ink pen markings on the jig for several different size boxes. The part on the left, the one you see the knobs on, is an adjustable fence for a router to ride against. Again, I have markings for it to do several different sizes. The pieces that stick out the bottom and top of the jig are also adjustable from underneath. They are stop blocks for where you want the routed holes to start and end.
> I am glad to report, I made two boxes today, so I can show you the box style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two boxes. One is made of sapelle and one of sycamore.
> They are each made of two pieces of wood. Each piece is six and a half inches long, two and a half inches wide, and three quarters of an inch thick. I set the router to cut three eighths of an inch deep with a three quarter inch bull nose bit. Then I set my jig to route the groove in each piece exactly in the center of each piece, starting and stopping a half inch from the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two pieces on the jig, and marking and predrilling holes for the hinges, I move to my table router, with a quarter inch round over bit, and smooth over the sharp edges. Next I mark and drill a three eighths hole in each piece so I can glue in a magnet on each piece that will hold the box shut. Then, after sanding everything real good, I install the hinges on it. Lastly, on these two at least, I give the whole thing a good rubdown with Johnson's Past Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like these boxes. I can make them cheaply enough, and easy enough to offer them as an add on item with my pens. I can sell them for ten dollars with a pen order, or a little more if someone wants to buy just a pen box for some reason.
> Before starting, I set everything up, including my saws, sander, jig, and table router. With everything set up, I can make up one of these boxes in about thirty minutes. I don't think that is bad considering I plan on offering them with pen orders at a price that I really won't be making anything on them. The idea is for this to be a value added product, with my profits coming from the pens themselves. Later, I hope things go well enough that I can branch out into maybe some fancier boxes that I may actually make a profit on in addition to the pens.
> Anyway, these were just two I made a point of getting done today so I could show what they would look like. I've got the hardware to make eight more for now, and will get them done as soon as I can get around to it.


Those are kool William.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pen Boxes*
> 
> Not exactly actual turning on the lathe, but since it is for my turned pen, I thought it belonged in the "As The Lathe Turns" series anyway. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've already gotten a couple of emails about how the jig I posted yesterday could possibly have anything to do with making a pen box.
> The long piece on the right has knobs underneath to make it adjustable. I put one part of a box in place, tap that clamp block against the part, and tighten the knobs to hold it in place. I have ink pen markings on the jig for several different size boxes. The part on the left, the one you see the knobs on, is an adjustable fence for a router to ride against. Again, I have markings for it to do several different sizes. The pieces that stick out the bottom and top of the jig are also adjustable from underneath. They are stop blocks for where you want the routed holes to start and end.
> I am glad to report, I made two boxes today, so I can show you the box style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two boxes. One is made of sapelle and one of sycamore.
> They are each made of two pieces of wood. Each piece is six and a half inches long, two and a half inches wide, and three quarters of an inch thick. I set the router to cut three eighths of an inch deep with a three quarter inch bull nose bit. Then I set my jig to route the groove in each piece exactly in the center of each piece, starting and stopping a half inch from the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two pieces on the jig, and marking and predrilling holes for the hinges, I move to my table router, with a quarter inch round over bit, and smooth over the sharp edges. Next I mark and drill a three eighths hole in each piece so I can glue in a magnet on each piece that will hold the box shut. Then, after sanding everything real good, I install the hinges on it. Lastly, on these two at least, I give the whole thing a good rubdown with Johnson's Past Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like these boxes. I can make them cheaply enough, and easy enough to offer them as an add on item with my pens. I can sell them for ten dollars with a pen order, or a little more if someone wants to buy just a pen box for some reason.
> Before starting, I set everything up, including my saws, sander, jig, and table router. With everything set up, I can make up one of these boxes in about thirty minutes. I don't think that is bad considering I plan on offering them with pen orders at a price that I really won't be making anything on them. The idea is for this to be a value added product, with my profits coming from the pens themselves. Later, I hope things go well enough that I can branch out into maybe some fancier boxes that I may actually make a profit on in addition to the pens.
> Anyway, these were just two I made a point of getting done today so I could show what they would look like. I've got the hardware to make eight more for now, and will get them done as soon as I can get around to it.


great idea William , they look great


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pen Boxes*
> 
> Not exactly actual turning on the lathe, but since it is for my turned pen, I thought it belonged in the "As The Lathe Turns" series anyway. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've already gotten a couple of emails about how the jig I posted yesterday could possibly have anything to do with making a pen box.
> The long piece on the right has knobs underneath to make it adjustable. I put one part of a box in place, tap that clamp block against the part, and tighten the knobs to hold it in place. I have ink pen markings on the jig for several different size boxes. The part on the left, the one you see the knobs on, is an adjustable fence for a router to ride against. Again, I have markings for it to do several different sizes. The pieces that stick out the bottom and top of the jig are also adjustable from underneath. They are stop blocks for where you want the routed holes to start and end.
> I am glad to report, I made two boxes today, so I can show you the box style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two boxes. One is made of sapelle and one of sycamore.
> They are each made of two pieces of wood. Each piece is six and a half inches long, two and a half inches wide, and three quarters of an inch thick. I set the router to cut three eighths of an inch deep with a three quarter inch bull nose bit. Then I set my jig to route the groove in each piece exactly in the center of each piece, starting and stopping a half inch from the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two pieces on the jig, and marking and predrilling holes for the hinges, I move to my table router, with a quarter inch round over bit, and smooth over the sharp edges. Next I mark and drill a three eighths hole in each piece so I can glue in a magnet on each piece that will hold the box shut. Then, after sanding everything real good, I install the hinges on it. Lastly, on these two at least, I give the whole thing a good rubdown with Johnson's Past Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like these boxes. I can make them cheaply enough, and easy enough to offer them as an add on item with my pens. I can sell them for ten dollars with a pen order, or a little more if someone wants to buy just a pen box for some reason.
> Before starting, I set everything up, including my saws, sander, jig, and table router. With everything set up, I can make up one of these boxes in about thirty minutes. I don't think that is bad considering I plan on offering them with pen orders at a price that I really won't be making anything on them. The idea is for this to be a value added product, with my profits coming from the pens themselves. Later, I hope things go well enough that I can branch out into maybe some fancier boxes that I may actually make a profit on in addition to the pens.
> Anyway, these were just two I made a point of getting done today so I could show what they would look like. I've got the hardware to make eight more for now, and will get them done as soon as I can get around to it.


Cool design William. Seems like this should really be a hit…...


----------



## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pen Boxes*
> 
> Not exactly actual turning on the lathe, but since it is for my turned pen, I thought it belonged in the "As The Lathe Turns" series anyway. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've already gotten a couple of emails about how the jig I posted yesterday could possibly have anything to do with making a pen box.
> The long piece on the right has knobs underneath to make it adjustable. I put one part of a box in place, tap that clamp block against the part, and tighten the knobs to hold it in place. I have ink pen markings on the jig for several different size boxes. The part on the left, the one you see the knobs on, is an adjustable fence for a router to ride against. Again, I have markings for it to do several different sizes. The pieces that stick out the bottom and top of the jig are also adjustable from underneath. They are stop blocks for where you want the routed holes to start and end.
> I am glad to report, I made two boxes today, so I can show you the box style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two boxes. One is made of sapelle and one of sycamore.
> They are each made of two pieces of wood. Each piece is six and a half inches long, two and a half inches wide, and three quarters of an inch thick. I set the router to cut three eighths of an inch deep with a three quarter inch bull nose bit. Then I set my jig to route the groove in each piece exactly in the center of each piece, starting and stopping a half inch from the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two pieces on the jig, and marking and predrilling holes for the hinges, I move to my table router, with a quarter inch round over bit, and smooth over the sharp edges. Next I mark and drill a three eighths hole in each piece so I can glue in a magnet on each piece that will hold the box shut. Then, after sanding everything real good, I install the hinges on it. Lastly, on these two at least, I give the whole thing a good rubdown with Johnson's Past Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like these boxes. I can make them cheaply enough, and easy enough to offer them as an add on item with my pens. I can sell them for ten dollars with a pen order, or a little more if someone wants to buy just a pen box for some reason.
> Before starting, I set everything up, including my saws, sander, jig, and table router. With everything set up, I can make up one of these boxes in about thirty minutes. I don't think that is bad considering I plan on offering them with pen orders at a price that I really won't be making anything on them. The idea is for this to be a value added product, with my profits coming from the pens themselves. Later, I hope things go well enough that I can branch out into maybe some fancier boxes that I may actually make a profit on in addition to the pens.
> Anyway, these were just two I made a point of getting done today so I could show what they would look like. I've got the hardware to make eight more for now, and will get them done as soon as I can get around to it.


I think they turned out great. The box is almost as nice as the pens. Those are hard to beat. I to think they'll make them more marketable. Good luck.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pen Boxes*
> 
> Not exactly actual turning on the lathe, but since it is for my turned pen, I thought it belonged in the "As The Lathe Turns" series anyway. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've already gotten a couple of emails about how the jig I posted yesterday could possibly have anything to do with making a pen box.
> The long piece on the right has knobs underneath to make it adjustable. I put one part of a box in place, tap that clamp block against the part, and tighten the knobs to hold it in place. I have ink pen markings on the jig for several different size boxes. The part on the left, the one you see the knobs on, is an adjustable fence for a router to ride against. Again, I have markings for it to do several different sizes. The pieces that stick out the bottom and top of the jig are also adjustable from underneath. They are stop blocks for where you want the routed holes to start and end.
> I am glad to report, I made two boxes today, so I can show you the box style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two boxes. One is made of sapelle and one of sycamore.
> They are each made of two pieces of wood. Each piece is six and a half inches long, two and a half inches wide, and three quarters of an inch thick. I set the router to cut three eighths of an inch deep with a three quarter inch bull nose bit. Then I set my jig to route the groove in each piece exactly in the center of each piece, starting and stopping a half inch from the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two pieces on the jig, and marking and predrilling holes for the hinges, I move to my table router, with a quarter inch round over bit, and smooth over the sharp edges. Next I mark and drill a three eighths hole in each piece so I can glue in a magnet on each piece that will hold the box shut. Then, after sanding everything real good, I install the hinges on it. Lastly, on these two at least, I give the whole thing a good rubdown with Johnson's Past Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like these boxes. I can make them cheaply enough, and easy enough to offer them as an add on item with my pens. I can sell them for ten dollars with a pen order, or a little more if someone wants to buy just a pen box for some reason.
> Before starting, I set everything up, including my saws, sander, jig, and table router. With everything set up, I can make up one of these boxes in about thirty minutes. I don't think that is bad considering I plan on offering them with pen orders at a price that I really won't be making anything on them. The idea is for this to be a value added product, with my profits coming from the pens themselves. Later, I hope things go well enough that I can branch out into maybe some fancier boxes that I may actually make a profit on in addition to the pens.
> Anyway, these were just two I made a point of getting done today so I could show what they would look like. I've got the hardware to make eight more for now, and will get them done as soon as I can get around to it.


Thank you all.
I am so sorry that I am taking so long in between responses these days.
Lately, by the time the days are done, I am too exhausted to even want to get online. 
I hope things will clear up soon. Until then, please understand and be patient with me. I will always get back as soon as I can.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pen Boxes*
> 
> Not exactly actual turning on the lathe, but since it is for my turned pen, I thought it belonged in the "As The Lathe Turns" series anyway. So here goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've already gotten a couple of emails about how the jig I posted yesterday could possibly have anything to do with making a pen box.
> The long piece on the right has knobs underneath to make it adjustable. I put one part of a box in place, tap that clamp block against the part, and tighten the knobs to hold it in place. I have ink pen markings on the jig for several different size boxes. The part on the left, the one you see the knobs on, is an adjustable fence for a router to ride against. Again, I have markings for it to do several different sizes. The pieces that stick out the bottom and top of the jig are also adjustable from underneath. They are stop blocks for where you want the routed holes to start and end.
> I am glad to report, I made two boxes today, so I can show you the box style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two boxes. One is made of sapelle and one of sycamore.
> They are each made of two pieces of wood. Each piece is six and a half inches long, two and a half inches wide, and three quarters of an inch thick. I set the router to cut three eighths of an inch deep with a three quarter inch bull nose bit. Then I set my jig to route the groove in each piece exactly in the center of each piece, starting and stopping a half inch from the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two pieces on the jig, and marking and predrilling holes for the hinges, I move to my table router, with a quarter inch round over bit, and smooth over the sharp edges. Next I mark and drill a three eighths hole in each piece so I can glue in a magnet on each piece that will hold the box shut. Then, after sanding everything real good, I install the hinges on it. Lastly, on these two at least, I give the whole thing a good rubdown with Johnson's Past Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like these boxes. I can make them cheaply enough, and easy enough to offer them as an add on item with my pens. I can sell them for ten dollars with a pen order, or a little more if someone wants to buy just a pen box for some reason.
> Before starting, I set everything up, including my saws, sander, jig, and table router. With everything set up, I can make up one of these boxes in about thirty minutes. I don't think that is bad considering I plan on offering them with pen orders at a price that I really won't be making anything on them. The idea is for this to be a value added product, with my profits coming from the pens themselves. Later, I hope things go well enough that I can branch out into maybe some fancier boxes that I may actually make a profit on in addition to the pens.
> Anyway, these were just two I made a point of getting done today so I could show what they would look like. I've got the hardware to make eight more for now, and will get them done as soon as I can get around to it.


Looking good William. Now we need some bump pen boxes.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Slow Progress*

It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
















I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.








My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.








Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.








Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish. 
I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.








Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning. 
While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.








Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood. 
It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.








I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
.
I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Good to see you back in the shop William…..hope all is well.

That is quite an assortment of goodies…lot's of cool wood…...not sure about the pink one? Is that wood?

The boxes are looking good, but looks like you are missing the right bit for the magnets?

Keep posting the cool wood…..


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


William,
It's always a pleasure to see/read your posts.
I'm glad you are getting some shop time.

Segmented turning on the horizon….
Looking forward to what comes of that.

As much as I (and others) enjoy your posts….
Don't feel obligated to post….
Post what you can, when you can!!!


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


I bet Sandra would love the "PINK" pen!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


The pink one simply peaked my interest jeff.
It looks like died plywood. 
I hate pink, but I bet there is someone out there that is going to go completely nuts over it.

I am missing the right bit, or the right magnets. The magnets are in between a 1/4" and 3/8". So I guess it's a metric bit. Or if I could find some standard size magnets. I tried covering them like Doe suggested in my last blog entry, but that prevents them from being strong enough. 
These will do for now, but the process still needs a tad bit of refining.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Always good to hear from you William.
That live oak burl pen is your best to date! Dallas sent me some live oak and I fell in love with it. It has the coolest knots (each one looks like a mini-burl).
Sandra will probably be begging for that pink pen!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Thanks Randy.
And I'll let *YOU* tell Sandra that about the pink pen.
*I'M* not.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Thanks Andy.
Are ya'll trying to get Sandra on my bad side tonight.

Sandra, if you read this, notice that I have said *nothing* about you liking pink.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


William good to see ya back in the shop ,that live oak burl is a pretty one but the spalted pecan is my favorit you are mastering these pens


----------



## TedW

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Nice pens and cases, William. Your work never ceases to amaze me. I too favor the oak burl, but the pink whatever wood is nice too.


----------



## GaryC

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Super nice work, William. And I don't blame you on that "Pink" suggestion.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


The pink layered wood is made of maple and yes it is dyed red but came out pink! Make all of them and the ladies will never fear losing them to their husbands! There might be some guys crazy about pink too! Or donate one to Breast Cancer for a prize in fund raising? I do have more oak burls at home, 2 of them, both about a foot deep and 2 feet in diameter! I'll mail some to you when I get back home! I like the one you made! I found some turquoise at a gem shop in Utah and bought some, now to experiment a bit. I keep looking for unusual things and gadgets to use. Glad to see you are having fun with the woods I gave you!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Thank you all very much.

Bearpie. 
I hadn't thought about the pink being for breast cancer awareness. I forget things sometimes. I think I'll turn the rest of them and give them to a local oganization that always has different fund raisers going on for breat cancer patients. 
Thanks for letting me know what wood the pink was actually made of. I would not have guessed maple. It looks like layers such as in plywood, but more solid than anything I'd seen local. 
I absolutely love the burl. I think I like burl in general, but this oak burl is something to behold. Thank you again.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Beautiful oak burl pen William. The others are nice too. I found a wooden case similar to yours in my garage loft yesterday. Inside was a wooden pen and pencil set. My wife said she got them as a gift from her book club some years ago and she gave it to me. The interesting thing about it was that the case had a type of hinge on it that holds it tightly closed. Seeing your post made me think you might be interested in that type of hinge as it would eliminate the need for the magnet lock. I'll bring it down and take a photo for you in case it could be of interest. I left it in the loft because the pen and pencils are too thin for me to use comfortably.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Wow, William! You are now where in hell, (excuse the explitive), slow. Pens & boxes…........all, awesome!


----------



## StumpyNubs

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


You're a very talented guy, William!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Thanks mike. I'd love to see other alternatives. I'm trying to keep the cost down. The closest design I've seen to this used barrel hinges but by the time I paid price plus shipping for those, I'd have to charge more for the boxes. For more expensive boxes I'm planning on going with a slide top design like the one Jeff sent me. I think I showed it on an earlier blog entry.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Yes roger. Every day not in the shop does feel that way to me. 
Thanks for the compliments.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Thanks stumps. You're not so bad yourself.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Here are the photos I promised you William. The hinges on this pen/pencil box are small barrel hinges, probably fairly inexpensive as they seem to be part metal and part plastic. The seem up to the job though. The box stays nicely shut with tension from the hinges, but it's still easy to open. You might be able to order these in quantities at a reduced price if you can find the right supplier. The sliding lid type sounds like a good and easier alternative to me, but not for display purposes.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


hello william, was glad to see this posting as i knew you were having more pain and not a desire to do much, i know those feelings myself, but also like you i try to overcome and still try to do the thing i love, woodworking. i myself just went through the passing of a kidney stone, ive had 2 before, the worst pain ive ever felt, luckily i passed it last night, if you let it, the hardships we all bear can help us to be kinder to others, for they are gods children, and throught these troubles we endure, we can know how to help others, take care my friend, and know your in my prayers this day….your work is always beautiful, i love the pens, and i have yours in my pen display next to my bed…i hope you will better..


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


The burl and spalted pecan pens are great, and I think the burl must be especially good because I thought you prefer regular pencils to pens. The rosewood boxes are my favorite.

Take it easy and just post when you feel up to it-we'll be waiting.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


William, Great to see your post. Bearpie already beat me to the comments about the pink pens. I have found them to be popular with ladies. Also make a few of them in smaller sizes for handbags, easier to find.

Those burls look awesome I picked up some burl pieces on clearance the other day and hope to get to them soon.

Look forward to your next post whenever it is, Feel well.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Mike. That is the same design mine is sort of based on. The barrel hinges look great but the ones I've found are expensive but cheaply made. I think they get away with that one because not many suppliers carry them. I am already keeping my eyes pealed though for a food deal on them. Thanks for posting the pictures for me.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Grizz. Thanks. Prayers are always appreciated.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Doe. Thank you. 
You are absolutely correct. I am an old #2 pencil sort of guy. However. I also appreciate one of a kind items. The burl and spalted pens catch my attention for just that reason. I can glue up new blanks for most pens I created. Spalting and burls though are from nature and cannot be duplicated.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


Thanks Chris. I am getting what I can done when I can do it. I can't wait to see what you do with the burl.


----------



## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Slow Progress*
> 
> It is getting to be normal lately for me not to feel much like getting online late in the evening when I finally get time to do so. I will try my best to start posting more often. I want to thank those of you who have been sending me emails and messages of concern and well wishes though. I appreciate it very much.
> I have been able to get in the shop a little lately. It has not been nearly as much as I would like, but a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some more of the pen boxes a showed last time. From left to right are rosewood (two of them), oak, pecan, walnut, sapelle, and sycamore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy Bearpie, when he visited recently, left me some live oak burl with all the other wood he'd brought. I love burl. On the rare occasion I'm able to get my hands on some, I just can't wait to turn a pen with it. Turning burl is like opening a Christmas present. You never know what beauty lies beneath the ugly wrapping until you get into it and see for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, he also brought some spalted pecan. I'd worked with spalting before, and pecan, but never spalted pecan. So I couldn't wait to see this one either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was on to another curiosity I had, the lignum vitae. This wood has been of interest to me for some time. This is said to be one of the hardest woods in the world. It is a nice looking wood. I think the pen would look better with some accent color added. Since I'd never turned it before though, I decided to leave it plain for the first go around to see how well it worked.
> It is an easy wood to work with on the lathe in my opinion. It is hard as people say, but with sharp tools, that makes it easier to turn to a very nice and smooth finish.
> I applied finish on this one. I wanted to see how it reacts with finish on it. I was told that it would turn a greenish color in a few weeks without finish. So I have this pen with finish on it, and another piece sanded. I will check back in a few weeks and see which way I like it best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the visit with Bearpie, I got some pointers from him on something else I plan on diving into in the future, segmented turning.
> While considering some of the ideas I got from him, I decided to try a couple of rings out of scrap wood just to see how much trouble it would be. This turned into a day long adventure in figuring out why my Incra sled was a half a degree off.
> Some of you may be wondering why I am worried about half a degree. That doesn't seem to be a problem. This is wood after all. Well, if you take a half a degree off of each angle, that it one degree per joint. The piece on the right in the above picture has twelve joints. That adds up to twelve degrees. Now, a half a degree may sound like no problem, but twelve degrees is a huge problem. So I had to fix that.
> After a whole day of finicky adjustments to my sled, I think I have it dialed into where I want it, and will try to make use of all this in the near future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another piece that was left that peaked my interest. I am not sure what it is. It was in a variety bag that was bought at one of the stores that I can't remember. I am not sure what it is. It looked, before turning, to be pink died plywood.
> It is a pink pen. I think that is all I have to say about that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the oak burl pen. Actually, everyone I show it to likes it. Since I plan on keeping that first one for myself, I decided I had better turn another one before someone snatches mine up.
> .
> I have now had the opportunity to turn oak burl and cherry burl. Both of them had figure that simply amazed me. I hope I can find a way to acquire different varieties of burl one day. Each time I work with it, the beauty of it just blows me away.


I'm a bit late to the party, but great work Willam. I even like the pink one!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Still Learning*

I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go. 
Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.








Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.








The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.








I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.








The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely. 
You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.








Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl. 
Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


well it looks really good from this angle, would it help to get another turner over that way to help show you technique, i know you have the drive and determination, glad yo see you post, ive tried to call you twice, but get voice mail…maybe i will try again monday…grizz


----------



## ken_c

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


I see no waste there - nice job - as for the inside turning - mind you I am still in search of a lathe so I am no expert - I have been reading and watching for a month or so - call it research - but - is it a captive tool holder that you need to help with the tool/hand/reach issues? Maybe someone with some experience will chime in here too..


----------



## ArlinEastman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


Hey William

I did not know you were a fellow turner. I have a few DVDs on turning bowls and also segmented turning if you wish to borrow them.

Also I think this was an awesome first time.

Arlin


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


Thanks guys.

Grizz, I deeply apologize for the missed calls.
I pulled my back out bad this time and just haven't felt up to actually talking to anyone. I promise to give you a call when I feel better. When I am hurting this bad, I hate takling to anyone, on the phone or in person, because I do not wish for them to hear my grunts and groans everytime I move.

Ken, I've seen several options, including the captive tools, snakes, and others. I've been trying to learn a more traditional approach like I've seen online. I may have to back up and try something different though. I've also been debating giving some carbide a try as well.

Arlin, I wouldn't call myself a wood turner, but a potential future wood turner. 
Check out some of the other posts in this series and you'll see that, although I am still rough on a lot of my techniques, it's been a long and fun road just to get to this point.
This wasn't the first bowl either, but the fist segmented bowl of this style. What I mean by that is, I have glued up layers before, but never mitered pieces into rings such as this one.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


i totally understand william, i look forward to the call when your up to it, know that im thinking of you and your times of pain and i hope that you will feel much much better and soon.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


The bowl looks good. Well, you have the segmented glue-up figured out. Now it's time to conquer the next hurdle. I am positive that you will!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


Thank you Grizz and Randy.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


That's frickin awesome, William. Luv the clamps too.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


Thanks roger. 
Bearpie, when he visited a while back, have me that idea. 
I had been wanting to buy some of those expensive band clamps. 
When he told me large pipe clamps in the plumbing section, I felt like an idiot for not thinking of it myself.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


Have you tried a scraper? My bowls are tiny in comparison to yours and I use a scraper to get deep. I have one inch dome and flat scrapers that will beaver out the most stubborn innards, as well as smaller ones.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


I have not tried a scraper, but I will definitely be trying it next time. 
Every video I've seen they always do their hollowing with gouges, so that's what I've been trying to do.


----------



## Parsimonia

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


I'm looking forward to seeing this project progress. I haven't tried this yet. +1 on the scraper. I've found the scraper works much better on difficult grain, but I understand how it is to learn to get inside without catches. I just ordered a curved tool rest to help get close.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


William, Looks fine from this angle as well. I still need to get up the confidence to try a regular bowl. My wife is very interested in turning one as well and I just have not even started on it to figure it out. Perhaps after teh holidays.

Always look forward to your posts, thanks for the inspiration. Hope your back is feeling better soon.

ctL


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


William, 1" ratchet straps make cheap (and excellent) band clamps.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


I have a curved rest but it is too large to fit in smaller bowls. 
I find "regular" bowls easier. If I start with a solid chunk of wood and hollow it out myself, I can ride that bevel with a sharp gouge and keep things smooth all the way. Then it is just a matter of keeping that smooth surface until I have it hollowed out to where I want it. With the segmented bowl, it is dealing with a completely uneven surface until you get it worked down. It is almost like turning air on some turnings I've done before on the outside. Only it is inside, which adds a whole other element to it. 
I will have to try the ratchet straps. I have a few of those somewhere. I was worried abou gluing the strap to the wood though.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


Those nylon straps really don't tend to get glued to the wood but you can always use wax paper, plastic bag, etc to insulate them from the wood if you're worried about it.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


I think I'll just cinch them down and take my chances Andy. 
Since I have to locate them from somewhere in the shop, it's not like I actually use them much. 
Thanks for the suggestion. I was debating on how to glue up rings larger than the largest hose clamp.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


Looking good William, try to put part of the tool rest inside the bowl(be sure to check for clearance before turning machine on!) start from the outside of the inner part and work your way down, not from the bottom up! Keep up the good work!

We are in South Dakota now.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


There is another suggestion to work with Bearpie. 
How did you know I worked from the bottom up?

I hope you and the misses is still having a great time on your trip.


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


Well, I like it!
Erwin's suggestion is right on about the tool rest, too.
Not sure which tool you were using on the inside, but for this type of grain orientation, I like the scraper.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


I was using a gouge an working from the bottom out. 
Next time I am surely going to try some suggestions made here though.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


It looks to me that you are off to a good start on segmented turning William. The way around the inaccurate angles regardless of the accuracy of your fence or saw or fence is to use a sanding jig. This means you cut the segments slightly oversize and sand them to the perfect size and angle on a disk sander (if you have a disk sander). Here's a great article from FWW mag. on how to build a proper sanding jig. A jig like this will free you up from having to cut perfect angles and also the need for a fresh blade. I use a jig very similar to this and it works great.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/sanding-jig-is-the-segmented-turner's-secret-weapon.aspx


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


Thanks mike. 
I'm on my phone at the moment but will be sure to check out that link when I can get back to my laptop. 
All suggestions are very welcome as always. My best advice always come to me from experienced turners.


----------



## mochoa

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


Wow, nice!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Still Learning*
> 
> I mentioned some time back that I was going to try to get into segmented turnings. I have been reading and getting advice everywhere and anywhere I could on the subject, along with doing a lot of reading. I felt I was ready to start a simple bowl to see how it would go.
> Things got off to a rocky start right from the beginning. While trying to make an eight piece segmented ring, I happen to discover that my Incra sled was one half a degree off from square. This had never presented itself as a problem to me before now and therefore went undetected. However, when you consider a half degree per side of each joint piece, times eight pieces, this made for an eight degree gap overall in the ring. Now, a half a degree is tiny, but eight degrees, well, let's just say that glue is not going to cover that gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, after fiddling with the sled for a couple of days, I was finally able to get it to where it was accurate enough for the segments. The Incra sled is a great piece of equipment, but I have found out that if it ever gets a tiny bit out of square, it is a pain in the rearend to get it perfect again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bowl press I made a while back made the glueing up of the stacks of rings much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I allowed it to set up overnight before moving on the the turning fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest difference I found with doing the segmenting over simply turning a bowl from solid wood is that there is nothing in the middle on one end to keep everything securely on the lathe until you get everything balanced well enough to spin safely.
> You may also notice I glued a piece on the bottom for no other reason that to have something to attach to the chuck without having to get into the material of the bowl itself. This I planned on turning off later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bowl. Well, here is what is left of the bowl.
> Everything went fine until I started turning the inside. I had nothing but problems, catches, and disappointment when I tried doing the inside. My tools were sharp, but I ran into other issues. The biggest of them being I need a better technique for getting into these smaller diameter bowls. When I work off the end of my tool rest, I'm kind of out there in no man's land because there is not enough room for my rest, my tool, and my hand to steady the tool. There has got to be a better way to do what I'm trying to do. I just need to do some more research and watch some more videos to figure it out. As usual though, it's always a learning process and I will get it one day.
> The bowl isn't a complete waste. Since all my past "reject" bowls that I put next to my bench to hold small tools always seem to get snatched up by family members, I needed a new small tool catch-all anyway.


Thank you.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Newest Antler Pen*

I've done several antler pens in the past. However, I have not been completely happy with any of them. They are antler, but they have been from very small tines, and I've had to make odd shape pens to be able to include any of the outer "bark" to make them even resemble antler.








Recently though, I was given a pretty large rack and couldn't wait to see what I could do with this one.








I was able to get a solid piece off of this one to be able to make the whole pen from one continuous piece. This makes it easier to match the two pen halves in appearances.








This allowed me to leave much more of the bark than I have on past antler pens, and be able to stick with the pen shape that I also like. It is a little fatter than my other pens, but I am just happy with the overall results.








On the other side of the pen, I guess because of the large size, it did become a little soft on me while turning. I had to keep soaking it in CA glue as I went, and this left a yellowish look where the soft area was, but I like this look as well.
So overall, this is my favorite antler pen so far.


----------



## GaryC

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Newest Antler Pen*
> 
> I've done several antler pens in the past. However, I have not been completely happy with any of them. They are antler, but they have been from very small tines, and I've had to make odd shape pens to be able to include any of the outer "bark" to make them even resemble antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently though, I was given a pretty large rack and couldn't wait to see what I could do with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get a solid piece off of this one to be able to make the whole pen from one continuous piece. This makes it easier to match the two pen halves in appearances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to leave much more of the bark than I have on past antler pens, and be able to stick with the pen shape that I also like. It is a little fatter than my other pens, but I am just happy with the overall results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other side of the pen, I guess because of the large size, it did become a little soft on me while turning. I had to keep soaking it in CA glue as I went, and this left a yellowish look where the soft area was, but I like this look as well.
> So overall, this is my favorite antler pen so far.


Super work, William Sure are pretty


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Newest Antler Pen*
> 
> I've done several antler pens in the past. However, I have not been completely happy with any of them. They are antler, but they have been from very small tines, and I've had to make odd shape pens to be able to include any of the outer "bark" to make them even resemble antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently though, I was given a pretty large rack and couldn't wait to see what I could do with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get a solid piece off of this one to be able to make the whole pen from one continuous piece. This makes it easier to match the two pen halves in appearances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to leave much more of the bark than I have on past antler pens, and be able to stick with the pen shape that I also like. It is a little fatter than my other pens, but I am just happy with the overall results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other side of the pen, I guess because of the large size, it did become a little soft on me while turning. I had to keep soaking it in CA glue as I went, and this left a yellowish look where the soft area was, but I like this look as well.
> So overall, this is my favorite antler pen so far.


Thank you Gary.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Newest Antler Pen*
> 
> I've done several antler pens in the past. However, I have not been completely happy with any of them. They are antler, but they have been from very small tines, and I've had to make odd shape pens to be able to include any of the outer "bark" to make them even resemble antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently though, I was given a pretty large rack and couldn't wait to see what I could do with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get a solid piece off of this one to be able to make the whole pen from one continuous piece. This makes it easier to match the two pen halves in appearances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to leave much more of the bark than I have on past antler pens, and be able to stick with the pen shape that I also like. It is a little fatter than my other pens, but I am just happy with the overall results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other side of the pen, I guess because of the large size, it did become a little soft on me while turning. I had to keep soaking it in CA glue as I went, and this left a yellowish look where the soft area was, but I like this look as well.
> So overall, this is my favorite antler pen so far.


Turned antler surely yields a unique pen.
Not sure it is my cup of tea though.
Perhaps it's the small cell phone image that does not do them justice.

Glad to see you are back in the saddle, err shop!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Newest Antler Pen*
> 
> I've done several antler pens in the past. However, I have not been completely happy with any of them. They are antler, but they have been from very small tines, and I've had to make odd shape pens to be able to include any of the outer "bark" to make them even resemble antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently though, I was given a pretty large rack and couldn't wait to see what I could do with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get a solid piece off of this one to be able to make the whole pen from one continuous piece. This makes it easier to match the two pen halves in appearances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to leave much more of the bark than I have on past antler pens, and be able to stick with the pen shape that I also like. It is a little fatter than my other pens, but I am just happy with the overall results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other side of the pen, I guess because of the large size, it did become a little soft on me while turning. I had to keep soaking it in CA glue as I went, and this left a yellowish look where the soft area was, but I like this look as well.
> So overall, this is my favorite antler pen so far.


Thanks Randy.

These are being posted from my laptop.
Maybe you mean you're looking at them on your phone.
They aren't for everyone though. However, most deer hunters love them.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Newest Antler Pen*
> 
> I've done several antler pens in the past. However, I have not been completely happy with any of them. They are antler, but they have been from very small tines, and I've had to make odd shape pens to be able to include any of the outer "bark" to make them even resemble antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently though, I was given a pretty large rack and couldn't wait to see what I could do with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get a solid piece off of this one to be able to make the whole pen from one continuous piece. This makes it easier to match the two pen halves in appearances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to leave much more of the bark than I have on past antler pens, and be able to stick with the pen shape that I also like. It is a little fatter than my other pens, but I am just happy with the overall results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other side of the pen, I guess because of the large size, it did become a little soft on me while turning. I had to keep soaking it in CA glue as I went, and this left a yellowish look where the soft area was, but I like this look as well.
> So overall, this is my favorite antler pen so far.


Yeah,
I viewed/posted from my phone.
By no means are they ugly or bad, I just prefer the wood ones you have done more!!!


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Newest Antler Pen*
> 
> I've done several antler pens in the past. However, I have not been completely happy with any of them. They are antler, but they have been from very small tines, and I've had to make odd shape pens to be able to include any of the outer "bark" to make them even resemble antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently though, I was given a pretty large rack and couldn't wait to see what I could do with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get a solid piece off of this one to be able to make the whole pen from one continuous piece. This makes it easier to match the two pen halves in appearances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to leave much more of the bark than I have on past antler pens, and be able to stick with the pen shape that I also like. It is a little fatter than my other pens, but I am just happy with the overall results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other side of the pen, I guess because of the large size, it did become a little soft on me while turning. I had to keep soaking it in CA glue as I went, and this left a yellowish look where the soft area was, but I like this look as well.
> So overall, this is my favorite antler pen so far.


Really nice. I've been thinking of doing a few things with antler stock. Very nicely done.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Newest Antler Pen*
> 
> I've done several antler pens in the past. However, I have not been completely happy with any of them. They are antler, but they have been from very small tines, and I've had to make odd shape pens to be able to include any of the outer "bark" to make them even resemble antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently though, I was given a pretty large rack and couldn't wait to see what I could do with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get a solid piece off of this one to be able to make the whole pen from one continuous piece. This makes it easier to match the two pen halves in appearances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to leave much more of the bark than I have on past antler pens, and be able to stick with the pen shape that I also like. It is a little fatter than my other pens, but I am just happy with the overall results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other side of the pen, I guess because of the large size, it did become a little soft on me while turning. I had to keep soaking it in CA glue as I went, and this left a yellowish look where the soft area was, but I like this look as well.
> So overall, this is my favorite antler pen so far.


Thanks randy. 
Like I said, they're not for everyone.

Roger, I think you would like antler. 
It's just different from most woods enough to be well, different. 
I have a local guy that is suppose to be coming through with some elk antler. 
Also, if my money is ever good enough, I'm dying to try some water buffalo horn that they sell through penn state.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Newest Antler Pen*
> 
> I've done several antler pens in the past. However, I have not been completely happy with any of them. They are antler, but they have been from very small tines, and I've had to make odd shape pens to be able to include any of the outer "bark" to make them even resemble antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently though, I was given a pretty large rack and couldn't wait to see what I could do with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get a solid piece off of this one to be able to make the whole pen from one continuous piece. This makes it easier to match the two pen halves in appearances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to leave much more of the bark than I have on past antler pens, and be able to stick with the pen shape that I also like. It is a little fatter than my other pens, but I am just happy with the overall results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other side of the pen, I guess because of the large size, it did become a little soft on me while turning. I had to keep soaking it in CA glue as I went, and this left a yellowish look where the soft area was, but I like this look as well.
> So overall, this is my favorite antler pen so far.


Nice pens; I like them both. What do you mean about soft? Is it naturally soft or did it get softer while turning? Thanks for the post; I hope you're feeling well.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Newest Antler Pen*
> 
> I've done several antler pens in the past. However, I have not been completely happy with any of them. They are antler, but they have been from very small tines, and I've had to make odd shape pens to be able to include any of the outer "bark" to make them even resemble antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently though, I was given a pretty large rack and couldn't wait to see what I could do with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get a solid piece off of this one to be able to make the whole pen from one continuous piece. This makes it easier to match the two pen halves in appearances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to leave much more of the bark than I have on past antler pens, and be able to stick with the pen shape that I also like. It is a little fatter than my other pens, but I am just happy with the overall results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other side of the pen, I guess because of the large size, it did become a little soft on me while turning. I had to keep soaking it in CA glue as I went, and this left a yellowish look where the soft area was, but I like this look as well.
> So overall, this is my favorite antler pen so far.


Nice, but doesn't compare with the one you made for me! I love mine!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Newest Antler Pen*
> 
> I've done several antler pens in the past. However, I have not been completely happy with any of them. They are antler, but they have been from very small tines, and I've had to make odd shape pens to be able to include any of the outer "bark" to make them even resemble antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently though, I was given a pretty large rack and couldn't wait to see what I could do with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get a solid piece off of this one to be able to make the whole pen from one continuous piece. This makes it easier to match the two pen halves in appearances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to leave much more of the bark than I have on past antler pens, and be able to stick with the pen shape that I also like. It is a little fatter than my other pens, but I am just happy with the overall results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other side of the pen, I guess because of the large size, it did become a little soft on me while turning. I had to keep soaking it in CA glue as I went, and this left a yellowish look where the soft area was, but I like this look as well.
> So overall, this is my favorite antler pen so far.


Doe, it is soft naturally. Antler is made of calcium. There is a more scientific description than that, but I am on my phone at the moment and can't come up with it. Anyway, the material has soft spots in it. It is almost the consistency of rotten wood. Soaking it with thin CA glue though stabilizes it enough to be turned.

Andy, thanks. The fact that you find yours better is a great compliment.

Doe, I also wanted to tell you that I ordered some different style kits. I can't wait to work with them. Unfortunately though, I am down in the bed at the present time and don't know for sure when I'll make it back to the shop. When I get down like this it may be days or it may be weeks.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Newest Antler Pen*
> 
> I've done several antler pens in the past. However, I have not been completely happy with any of them. They are antler, but they have been from very small tines, and I've had to make odd shape pens to be able to include any of the outer "bark" to make them even resemble antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently though, I was given a pretty large rack and couldn't wait to see what I could do with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get a solid piece off of this one to be able to make the whole pen from one continuous piece. This makes it easier to match the two pen halves in appearances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to leave much more of the bark than I have on past antler pens, and be able to stick with the pen shape that I also like. It is a little fatter than my other pens, but I am just happy with the overall results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other side of the pen, I guess because of the large size, it did become a little soft on me while turning. I had to keep soaking it in CA glue as I went, and this left a yellowish look where the soft area was, but I like this look as well.
> So overall, this is my favorite antler pen so far.


Looks great. I like 'fat' pens, they are easier to hold comfortably.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Newest Antler Pen*
> 
> I've done several antler pens in the past. However, I have not been completely happy with any of them. They are antler, but they have been from very small tines, and I've had to make odd shape pens to be able to include any of the outer "bark" to make them even resemble antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently though, I was given a pretty large rack and couldn't wait to see what I could do with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get a solid piece off of this one to be able to make the whole pen from one continuous piece. This makes it easier to match the two pen halves in appearances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to leave much more of the bark than I have on past antler pens, and be able to stick with the pen shape that I also like. It is a little fatter than my other pens, but I am just happy with the overall results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other side of the pen, I guess because of the large size, it did become a little soft on me while turning. I had to keep soaking it in CA glue as I went, and this left a yellowish look where the soft area was, but I like this look as well.
> So overall, this is my favorite antler pen so far.


Thanks mike. 
You'll love the pen I made today. 
I'll try posting it soon.


----------



## mochoa

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Newest Antler Pen*
> 
> I've done several antler pens in the past. However, I have not been completely happy with any of them. They are antler, but they have been from very small tines, and I've had to make odd shape pens to be able to include any of the outer "bark" to make them even resemble antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently though, I was given a pretty large rack and couldn't wait to see what I could do with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get a solid piece off of this one to be able to make the whole pen from one continuous piece. This makes it easier to match the two pen halves in appearances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to leave much more of the bark than I have on past antler pens, and be able to stick with the pen shape that I also like. It is a little fatter than my other pens, but I am just happy with the overall results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other side of the pen, I guess because of the large size, it did become a little soft on me while turning. I had to keep soaking it in CA glue as I went, and this left a yellowish look where the soft area was, but I like this look as well.
> So overall, this is my favorite antler pen so far.


I didnt even know you could turn antler, thats pretty cool.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Newest Antler Pen*
> 
> I've done several antler pens in the past. However, I have not been completely happy with any of them. They are antler, but they have been from very small tines, and I've had to make odd shape pens to be able to include any of the outer "bark" to make them even resemble antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently though, I was given a pretty large rack and couldn't wait to see what I could do with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get a solid piece off of this one to be able to make the whole pen from one continuous piece. This makes it easier to match the two pen halves in appearances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to leave much more of the bark than I have on past antler pens, and be able to stick with the pen shape that I also like. It is a little fatter than my other pens, but I am just happy with the overall results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other side of the pen, I guess because of the large size, it did become a little soft on me while turning. I had to keep soaking it in CA glue as I went, and this left a yellowish look where the soft area was, but I like this look as well.
> So overall, this is my favorite antler pen so far.


You can turn antler. Actually I have learned that I will try to turn pretty much anything short of hardened Steele, and I'd try that too if I knew the right tool to use. 
Besides wood, I have turned antler, plastic, coriander, acrylic, and PVC. 
Thank you.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Shooting Straight*

I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.

The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens. 
There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.








I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.








Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.








Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic. 
After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.








This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.








To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it. 
I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.








Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.








Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.








I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.








Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it. 
Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet. 
If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.








For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it. 








By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.








With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.








Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge. 
















These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.








While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.








While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.








I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad. 
My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back. 
Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.

Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


----------



## alba

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


That was some catching up.
Good to see you back, I hope you get back to normal

Jamie


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


Thank you Jamie and you know I'll bounce back like always. 
Sorry for such a long catch up post.


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


Those are some fine looking pens, William, and really nice "enclosures".

Never tried any of the "Teacher" pens but did make a couple of Civil War models for some of historians I know. Used local walnut- nothing as fancy as yours.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


Thank you lew. 
I thought of doing the teacher pens because we have a few friends who are teachers. I'm hoping that giving them as gifts this year will be nice and also maybe generate a few sales.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


You have again raised the bar in your pen turning! I love the teachers pens but never saw those before you posted these. I am a big fan of all the burl pens you have done but the live oak is my favorite of the burls. BUT the coolest one you posted tonight is the one you made for your dad with the .45 Long Colt casing. I may have to own one of those!


----------



## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


I've never heard of bullet pens before. 
My two favourite are the burl pens, beautiful.
Nice to see you posting!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


Thank you Sandra. 
Andy, let me think of an add on for a certain piece of orange wood you sent me and the next .45Colt pen I make will be headed your way.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


well you know i understand your reasons for short shop time, but i do have to say with what time your getting, your doing some fantastic work william, and that is shootin from the hip, i could get more specific, but i dont want to be out gunned by anyone who has better things to say….lol…take care, do what it takes to feel well and will look forward to the next time you post…


----------



## ssnvet

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


You certainly have mastered pen turning William!


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


william you have come a long way with these pen s,they are going to sell well ,beautiful pens


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


You are a true craftsman. They are all outstanding! I'm not at all surprised that you made bullet pens with slimline kits; you are totally unstoppable when you're thinking of new ideas.

I'd like to know more about the civil war pen, but I don't want to take you away from what shop time you can manage.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


Thank you all for your compliments and kind words. 
Doe, I am posting from my phone, but will pull out the laptop this evening and type up the info on the civil war pen. I don't mind at all, as it is my favorite pen to date.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


William, I'm still not sure if my pen is hedge or mulberry but it is keeping its great color and I get a lot of compliments on it. Thanks again. I got more hedge but no mulberry yet.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


I like the hedge better than the mulberry. 
The mulberry is petty but the hedge just seems to "pop" more. 
So far, with three coats of CA glue finish, all the pens I have done in hedge and mulberry hold their color very well. 
I left one hedge pen unfinished just to test it, and it started changing colors pretty quickly when left were it was in sun light.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


William, Great to see this post from you. What a great collection of pens. I have to say bullet pens have not really wowed me much, yours though look great. Have to agree with you on acrylics, I still have a few small pieces of them around here and I have not really gone out of my way to find a use for them. I much prefer wood, the look and the smell of it is better 

Keep well, looking forward to your next post.

ctL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


Thanks Chris. 
I used up all the acrylic that came with the set, mostly to get gone. 
I don't think it'll hurt my feelings a bit if I don't mess with it again for a while.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


Leave it to you, William!
Makin something out of nothing, or is that making something that doesn't exist!
A few more William One-of-a-Kind originals!
Mighty fine ones at that….


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


Thank you randy.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


A lot of really wonderfully done pens William. I like the teachers pen idea too. It wasn't long ago that you were just starting up with pens and now you are a master at turning them.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


Thank you Mike. 
I wouldn't dare use the word master, but I think I'm getting the hang of it.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


Really gr8 turnings, William. I like the lil box you made for the Civil War pen. Those do look fantastic w/any kind of burl


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


Thank you roger


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


Getting better everytime I see your work.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Shooting Straight*
> 
> I must give you all fair warning. I have gotten way behind on posting my blog as of late. Settle in, grab a cup of coffee, or beverage of your choice, and hang on. This one will be a long one.
> 
> The thing that has kept me from posting, besides personal problems, is that I have gotten into some pens that have really peaked my interest. I had a birthday last month. My wife asked what I wanted and I told her I'd really like to order some kind of pen kits besides slimlines that I have been turning. So she gave me some money to order what I wanted and I ordered some teacher's pens, and a five piece starter set of bullet pens.
> There is so much to show, that I guess I'll just go in order and shoot straight through it, thus the name of this blog entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I done one of the teacher's pens first. I made a Celtic knot in the middle piece, which is made of maple. Then I used purple heart and ziricote for the end pieces. This pen is designed for teachers or accountants because it uses the two inks that those professions use most. The end of the pen with the ziricote turns to expose a black ink tip, while the purple heart end exposes a red ink tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I desperately wanted to get into those bullet pens. However, the starter set came with several pieces of camouflage acrylic blanks. I had never worked with acrylic before, and really wanted to practice on it before I started on the higher priced bullet pen kits. Well, one of the acrylic blanks was this crushed camo. Personally, I thought it was the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Someone else might like it though, so it was a perfect candidate to use with a slimline kit to get some practice on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I couldn't wait any longer. I just had to do a bullet pen. I decided to do one of the .30 caliber click pens first, since it would also be my first click pen. This one is chrome with urban camo acrylic.
> After turning two pens with it, I felt I was ready to give my opinion of turning acrylic. It is alright. I much more prefer wood though. If someone wants acrylic, or I happen to get some, I'll be happy to turn it. I highly doubt I'll be going out of my way to acquire more though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next pen was just a fun pen to do. It is the .50 caliber pen made with desert camo acrylic. It is meant to be a stand alone desk accessory. I did however go back later and make a box for it so it would make a good gift for someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To really give you an idea of the massive size of this pen, here it is next to a slimline pen. It also shows why I had to make a different box for it.
> I have so many photos to show that I am not necessarily showing the boxes I made in this post. I had to make special boxes for several other pens. If any of my readers are actually interested in them though, please let me know and I'll post more about the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I am going to show the box for this pen in just a bit. This pen is special to me for several reasons. For starters, I think it is my new favorite. I absolutely love this pen. It is the civil war pen. Another thing is, my hometown, and where I now reside, is steeped in civil war history. Also not to be missed, I fell in love with the box elder burl that came with this starter set before I even turned it, and loved it more after it was turned, sanded, and buffed to a high gloss shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a better close up of the pen. It is chrome with box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made more of a collector style box for it out of sapelle. I chose this design because it is more of a collector item than most of the pens I have turned. Also, the paper that goes with the pen would not fit in the boxes I've been making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the inside of the box, and the paper I am talking about. The paper has a stylish front which tells who turned it and what kind of wood is used on it.
> Inside that paper is information about the different parts of the pen and why they were chose for the hardware on a civil war pen. The clip is the replica of an 1861 Springfield musket. The cap is a .58 caliber "Minnie" ball, and the tip is the replica of a .44 caliber 1860 Colt Army revolver bullet.
> If any of you would like to read more about this, please let me know and I'll type up the information for you to read.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the .30 caliber twist pen, I decided that since I love burl so much, I would try some of the live oak burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By this time, the idea had struck me to combine two things that are very popular in the area where I live, bullets (or guns) and white tail deer. So I done the last pen, the gold click pen, in white tail deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all these ideas floating around in my head, I somehow came out of the starter set with one piece of untouched acrylic. So I decided to do the woodland camo blank for another slimline pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, through all this, one of my older sons had seen each pen with great interest. He loves guns and hunting. He recently bought a .45-70 and was bugging me to death about making him a pen out of a .45-70 cartridge. I kept telling him they don't make kits for that and carried on. Then, as I was nearing completion of all of the kit pens, I thought one evening about how much I've done in the past without proper kits. So I knew there had to be a way.
> I took what was left of the urban camo blank. I cut one end off to length for a slimline tube. The other end I glued what was left to one end of a slimline tube. Next, I used calipers to carefully measure and turn a shoulder to fit snugly inside the .45-70 cartridge. Then, resetting the calipers, again carefully turned the rest of the pen to be exactly the same diameter as the outside of the cartridge. From there, I just turned the tip end to shape of a regular pen and used gold slimline parts to make a pen. The shoulder I turned before got glued inside the .45-70 cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are unrelated, but both the pink slimline pen and the zebra wood with cross grain slimline pen have left my shop. Since both of these pens seem to be very popular, I felt I needed to replace them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing the pink pen though, which is actually pink dyed maple, I had another idea. I also had a piece of black dyed maple. These two together made perfect ends for a teacher's pen. For the middle I used a piece of cocabolo that has really interested me since I first laid eyes on it. It had sap wood in it, which is something I had never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While doing that teachers pen, I had yet another idea. You may remember how much I love burl. I had just enough box elder burl from the start set to go with some cherry burl and live oak burl, and make a teachers pen with three different types of burl on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had just enough left of that cocabolo with the sapwood to do one more thing with. I wanted to make something special for my Dad.
> My Dad, if some of you remember, is part of S.A.S.S. They shoot old west era guns. One of the guns he shoot is a .45 Colt. It is the same ones I made gun blocks for some time back.
> Well I knew if I could make a pen with a .45-70, then I should be able to do the same with a .45 Colt. So, using the same method as for the pen previously described, I made my Dad a cocabolo pen with a .45 Colt cap.
> 
> Well, if you haven't left yet or fell asleep, that is what I have been able to get done in the last couple of weeks. I have been down a bit in my health, but hope to get back in the shop soon. Also, I hope I am able to order more bullet pen kits soon. I really enjoy them and have all kinds of idea for them. In the meantime, I still have seven more teachers pen kits to come up with ideas for.


Thank you Dave.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*The Lathe*

I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe. 








As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications. 
The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.

Now let's talk about those tools.








Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.

﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible. 
With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?








Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice. 
Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.








After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool. 
Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?








Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.

Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.








So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise. 








Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.

That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it. 
Till next time, happy turnings.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


Good to see you posting. You had a brain fart?
{insert joke here}
Any way, great work William. elevating the lathe was a brilliant idea.
And the tool bits were cool too.
Keep them coming!


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


William, I have raised my workbench and every tool in my shop except the big bandsaw. My back thanks me every day.

You could always have Dave custom make all your lathe tools and swap him some of your handiwork (or some fish!)

I know that 1/4" drillstock is available but can't remember where. I'll keep thinking and let you know. How would 1/4" chainsaw files work for tool stock?


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


Cool ideas William….the bit holder should be a real money saver in the long run….....


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


Thanks Dave. 
Elevating the lathe is working out great. 
Now I just need to build a taller stool for when I'm having trouble standing.
Or add a riser under the old one.

Andy, I haven't tried files yet. I have several old ones around. I guess one day I'll just have to find out. I am for the time being sticking with my current source because I know it's good steele though. It seems to be holding up. I am learning quickly that all high speed steel is definately not created equal. If I could get some good quality quarter inch tool steel rod though, it would probably save some money over buying the drill bits.

Thanks Jeff. I think it'll save me a bundle before I'm through. The site where I got the idea from has all kinds of things you can make for it too. I am thinking of trying hook tools in the future as well.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


You are one innovative cheap "mother&$^%@#"....
I mean that in the nicest of ways!!! ;^)

Great job on….
the lathe….
The Oland Tool cutters….
Tackling the tackle box repair….
And just being in the shop, DOING!!!


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


I elevated my lathe by 5 inches more than year and half ago and now stand up straight when working there. Much more comfortable now!


----------



## wormil

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


I was up looking at my lathe awhile ago thinking of raising it a tad. It's fine for spindles but on bowls I find myself hunching.

Great job on the Oland style tool I might have to give that a try.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


All good ideas William. You can also use the HSS drill bit shanks for hollowing out closed forms like bottles, etc. You just need a mild steel bar with a hole drilled at an angle on the side at the end where you can insert the sharpened drill shank. You can split the bar at the hole end down to the hole and run a bolt through so you can tighten the bit in place. This requires a 2nd hole across for the nut and bolt. Clear as mud?


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


You've just added many more years of turning to your back by raising up your lathe. I do like your tool holder carousel also.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


Thank you all for the kind words.

Mike, the idea you describe is very clear actually. I had a similar idea but was debating on how to get the set screw holes drilled and tapped precise enough to hold round stock without turning. With set screws I always prefer two screws to one. I will definitely be giving that one a try as soon as I have the money for some stock. I can use the same cutter bits that I already have. Would that still be an oland tool or is there another name for t?


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


William, Some more great information from you. Thanks. I like the idea of raising the lathe and perhaps with my next purchase I am going to make sure to get it at a good height. I am looking at scaling back due to shop space and getting a midi-lathe. So I will build the stand myself.

Thanks again for the the thoughts.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


I've used the lathe some since raising it Chris and never knew how much a difference the height would make. It is much more pleasurable to turn now.

I've been working on some more shop made tools today as per mike's suggestions. I'll be sure to post them when I'm done.


----------



## jbald

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


I've been a professional post and spindle turner for many years and was trained by my long-gone Dutch Grandpa who spent his youth from age 12 through old age, standing and swaying in front of a lathe. It's called the "turners' sway" and it's the unmistakable mark of a production hand wood turner. The motion is the result of the ergonomic position and manipulations of the hands and body. It's all about comfort, economy and production and there are guidelines…

One hand is on the tool, near the tool rest, while the other is at the waist holding the handle. The slight motions of the turning tool is in the wrist of the hand at your waist. The cut is mostly performed and controlled by the sway and motions of the body. It's a natural motion performed by shifting body weight from one foot to the other. It's a dance or waltz that can be performed hour after hour, year after year. There's no easier way.

Therefore the height of your lathe (more particularly the tool rest) should be set-up for dancing. Your partner and life-time companion, is your lathe. If you have to physically and habitually hold up your hand away from your waist, then you are wasting energy and compromising control.

Obviously short little turning tools are almost useless in my estimation (none of Grandpas' home made tools would fit in your box). The angle of the tool I'm describing is for shear cutting but the same is true for scraping where the tool is held perpendicular to the turning axis. Outboard faceplate turning was often performed from a raised floor platform. This elevated the body, allowing the turner to keep is hand at his side. If you're scrape-cutting then you'd typically need a very low level lathe or platform.

Your turning tool rotisserie is a cute idea but has no place in the production process. The 3 or 4 tools required are set out in front of you on the bed of the lathe. You should be able to draw them out without really looking at them. You need a backboard support for your lathe

I admire your enthusiasm but I suspect that your lathe is too high. Of course each turner has his own methods or style but I learned this stuff from a man who spent two years of his teenage life turning the same style stair balusters everyday, all day as the belt-driven lathes ran continuously without stopping. Grandpa at work


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


Great post, William!

Like you, I had to raise my lathe to help eliminate aches and pains. Especially my neck. I took mine off of the stand and bolted it to the top of a cabinet.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


Thanks lew. 
It seems that I definitely haven't thought I something that others haven't done already. 
I guess raising the lathe has come to a lot of us eventually.

Jim, thank you for the advice. 
Funny thing is, according to your advice, I am doing several things right. 
I hate scraping. Let get that out of the way. I like cutting with my edge high on my work. This may be the wrong technique, but works for me. Of course if I'm doing bowl hollowing or faceplate work my tool has to come lower, near or at center. I hope I'm explaining this right but what I'm getting at is, with my lathe where it is now, it puts my handle holding hand (left hand in my case) comfortably on my waist like you show in the photo. And you are correct in that this is the most comfortable. I've found out that to do otherwise gets my left arm tired quickly. Of course my right hand is helped by being guided by the tool rest most times. 
The tool carousels are handy. Like you say though, they have no practical use during a project. That is why I added the side holders to my lathe that I talked about in this blog entry. I can now reach for a given tool quickly and easily. I just put what I'm using on there as I'm working. This eliminates the carousels for anything except storage of tools not being used at the time. 
Thank you for telling me about your grandpa. I love hearing about the way things were done way back. We can all learn from these true craftsmen from days gone by. I'll but he could have taught all of us wanna be wood turners a thing or twenty. I couldn't imagine turning on one of those belt driven lathes you describe. I have to stop and check my work often or I'll wind up turning tooth picks.


----------



## jbald

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


Yeah, Grandpa was as good a wood turner as one can possibly be. He was trained by men who worked and lived during the Victorian era. Those days are gone and will never come again. Today a proficient and professional wood turner operates a CNC machine.

Grandpa left me two wooden lathes, both with 12' timbered beds. The heavy cast iron head and tail stocks were manufactured by C.O. Porter Company 1880's. The belt driven, babbitt bearing head stocks were converted to ball bearing and electric motors. That's me 1973. I've just turned a big goofy looking finial and have removed the long iron bar tool rest (now on the timber). The lathes are bolted to the concrete slap and the head and tail stocks could be braced to the tilt-up wall. I was turning some very big stuff back then. The on/off/reverse switch is the long wood stick on the face of the bed and could be operated with a knee-jerk. Production marking templates hang on the wall long with other junk.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


I would love to be able to try my hand at turning larger turnings one day. Presently, my better lathe is a harbor freight special with a 3/4 horse motor. It bogs down badly if I take a cut more than about a 16th of an inch at the most. My reason for getting into turning was a memory of some huge wooden mixing bowls in my grandmother's kitchen. 
I hope to one day, since I can't afford to buy one, to build a very large bowl lathe. 
One can dream.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


Thanks for the great information! You learn something new every day. I have an Oland tool but we were never introduced by name. I had the reverse lathe height problem and a pallet with rubber mat solved that.

I'm really glad you're back.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *The Lathe*
> 
> I try my best to come up with catchy little titles for my blog posts. Sometimes though, I just can't think of anything that does not sound over the top corny. So I decided to title this one simply, the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As such, let's talk about my lathe. Recently I realized that I was extremely unhappy with the height of my lathe. I was turning a small bowl that I needed to see inside of for those final light passes when it occurred to me, this is why my back is giving me problems after turning small bowls. I was stooping at an uncomfortable position to be able to see inside my work. This made me also think of other operations that made me have to stoop. It was clear that either my lathe had to come up, or I had to get shorter. Since I had no intention of cutting my legs…..
> I built an eight and a half inch riser frame under the lathe stand and bolted the stand to the frame using half inch lag bolts. I added strips across the bottom and had my sons move these huge pieces of marble under it that we brought back from my Grandpa's place in north Georgia earlier this year. This added a lot of stability. I checked it and was much happier with this height. The lathe bed is even with my elbows. I can work comfortably without stopping or reaching up in any uncomfortable positions.
> While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of other modifications.
> The middle supports for my lathe stand were just there. I mean, they really served no purpose besides keeping the legs from buckling, which I didn't see happening anyway. So I thought I should make use of that space. So I added a shelf with sides and ends that extend up two and a half inches. This gives me somewhere to put small tools I'm using while turning any given project. This is much better than my previous method, which was to lay it on the lathe bed and forget about it until I hear it hit the floor. Then I would usually have to get down into the floor and retrieve whatever it was that I had just lost in a nearby pile of shavings.
> This took care of things except for one more aggravation I'd been having. A lot of projects usually require the use of more than one cutting tool. I would turn around to my accessory table, replace whatever tool I was using, and retrieve the one I needed. Then later I would usually go back for the first tool. This happened back and forth quite often. It would be nice to keep whatever few tools I used for any given project right on the lathe stand. So you may notice the angles wooden pieces at each end of my lathe now. Each of these has four holes one inch in diameter in them to drop tools I am using into. The one on the left end of the front are for most spindle type projects. The one on the other end I use when I sometimes stand at the back of the lathe while hollowing small bowls. I know some of you may tell me it's wrong to work at the back of my lathe, but it's what is comfortable to me. The are placed so I am grabbing for the left end on either side I'm working on because I am left handed.
> 
> Now let's talk about those tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone told me once that the lathe was the cheapest part of wood turning. I did not, at the time, understand what they meant by that. They were correct though. To me, a three hundred dollar investment in a lathe is a huge deal. I just don't have that kind of money lying around. I have all these other tools though. They cost fifteen dollars here, twenty dollars there, and then you throw in those forty and fifty dollar accessories. Don't even get me to talking about some of the more expensive things. Let's just put it like this. I sat down one day and started figuring up what I had invested in accessories, not counting the lathe, and I swear I felt a heart attack coming on, or at least quite a bit of anxiety if I dared let my wife see those figures.
> 
> ﻿Anyway, I am always looking for ways to save on tools. The problem is, with a lot of lathe tools, you get what you pay for. Cheap tools are just that, cheap tools. Sure, you may get the job done, but be prepared to spend a lot of time at the grinder touching up the cutting edge. Yes, I learned this one the hard way. So I have found that the only other alternative is to make your own tools as much as possible.
> With all this rambling, let me explain. I have several nice scrapers and gouges. The problem is that I often find myself in a position where I would love to have a different cutting profile on the tool I have in my hand. However, because of the cost, I just cannot start grinding a different profile on a tool each time I find myself in this predicament.
> Then I read this article about the Oland Tool. This little dandy seemed like the answer to my prayers. So I started to look around to see what I had to work with.
> Now, to make this tools, you can get pretty much any steel, drill a hole into the end of it, drill and tap for set screws, and stick a piece of tool steel in it. Really the only parameter you have to make sure on is that the holder part is big enough to hold the cutting part. So what would I use for the cutting part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I remembered this tool. I ordered this from Penn State some time ago. I used it several times, hated it, stuck it in my tool rack, and it has collected dust and cobwebs there ever since. This tool is meant to hold quarter inch shank router bits and you use them on the lathe. I think it was a good idea in theory, but just doesn't work well, in my opinion, in practice.
> Anyway, all I needed was some good steel to make cutting bits out of that would fit into the quarter inch hole in the end of this tool. So off to town I went. You know what I found? It is hard to find a clear answer in town what exactly good tool steel is, much less actually find any. So in frustration, I found myself at Tractor Supply Company just in hopes of finding something that would work, since they seem to have everything else. Then the brain fart hit me and I thought of drill bits. On the shelf, for less than six bucks a bit, was some very long shank, quarter inch, high speed tool steel, drill bits. I wondered if this would work. There was only one way to find out. So I bought the two bits they had left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After grinding and cutting, I can get four bits off of each long shank drill bit. So after taxes, for less than fifteen bucks, I made eight different profiled bits to use in the bar of the tool.
> Some of you are already asking the important question. How well does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normally, I would use more than just the oland tool. For example, most of my hollowing would be done with a bowl gouge. However, for testing purposes, I decided to turn this rosewood bowl entirely with the oland tool, using nothing more but different tip profiles. I am happy to say that I am absolutely thrilled with how it performs and would even venture as to say to it is my new favorite tool simply for it's versatility. I've already thought of some other tip profiles I'd like to have once Tractor Supply stocks some more of those quarter inch bits.
> 
> Something I love more than turning wood is fishing. Well I went fishing a few nights ago. Since I've been down in my back a lot lately, I let one of my younger sons do something I would never normally allow, carry my tackle box. He hit is on the steps leading down to the water and the flimsy factory handle came right off, with a broken plastic tab that used to hold it on. So I spent some time online looking for a tackle box and could not find one I was happy with. Then finally, at a local sports store, I found one I like a lot. The funny thing is, it was the exact box I have now that has a broken handle. What can I say? I got used to it and just really like the box. The problem is, there is no way I was going to pay over fifty dollars for the same box I already have, that has already proven to have a weak handle support on it. It just did not make sense to me.
> So I decided the better alternative to this dilemma would be to fix the box I had. I wanted something better than what came from the factory though. I wanted something that would not tear off just because one of my sons hit it on a concrete step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned a handle from a solid piece of pecan. I ran strong enough rope through the handle and attached it to the bottom section of the box. In my opinion, this is better anyway because it also take undue stress off of the plastic latches that holds the lid shut, which I was sure by this point would be the next part of the box to fail otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the handle holds the box up while being carried. Not only do I think this will outlast the factory handle on a new box, in my opinion it is now more comfortable to carry. The handle having the ability to slip on the rope from side to side allows the weight to shift comfortably without the box hitting against your leg as you walk like it used to.
> 
> That's all I have to show today. Looking at things I've fixed using the lathe though, I guess I should have named this post, if it's broke, fix it.
> Till next time, happy turnings.


Thank you doe. 
I'm not exactly back, but fighting every day. I've been down so bad lately that I thought one of my troubled disks in my back had ruptured. It turns out that it is not, but it is severely herniated. The doctor wants me to stay in bed for several weeks. I just can't do it though. I get too depressed if I can't do something.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*More Home Brews*









If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool. 
When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.








It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week. 
I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done. 
So back to the shop.








Here is how the business end of the tool turned out. 
There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.








I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
Speaking of that extra stock…...








While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do. 








So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles. 








The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.

.

Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good. 
Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost. 








So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set. 
It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company. 
I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking. 
I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.








While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks. 








So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.








I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side. 
.
So till next time, happy turning.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


william , you da man, fantastic buddy, some day i hope to have the ideas you have about some of the tools, but for now, i dont do the lathe, and you do , and so well…im still around, but not to much, here and there, back is not well at all, went and got a shot this morning, epidural…im hoping for the best…i pray for you and your situation to buddy, im glad i have your work here in my bedroom , i like seeing the work my friends have blessed me with….take care…bob


----------



## StumpyNubs

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


Impressive, William! I'm favoriting this one for future reference for sure!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


Thanks Grizz. 
I've been down in my back for some time as well. It has really cut into what I've been able to get accomplished. It makes for a very aggrevating task when something that normally takes an hour takes all day. I haven't forgotten that I'm supposed to call you either. I promise I will when I am up to it. I wish you lived closer. I can handle face to face visits much better than phone calls. I hate phones enough that I have to be feeling well to use one unless absolutely necessary.

Stumps, now I know I done a good job if you are impressed.
Thanks for the compliment.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


Pretty clever stuff for sure…....love the home made tools…....


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


Thanks Jeff.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


You are coming up with some really practical and creative tool solutions! Drilling those angled holes in that cold roll must have been a challenge?

Your tool handles are just beautiful!


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


Your innovation, creativity and drive are inspiring!
I only wish that I had half of your drive….
I'm sure that I have half the brain!!!

Looking forward to seeing the projects you create with your "custom" tools!!!


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


Very nice work on the turning tools and the pen stuff William. The set screw was a good idea too. It seems that the cutters are protruding further out than they should on the turning tools, and with all the torque generated by a the lathe they might catch easily. If you've already used them and they work good just ignore this advice, but personally I wouldn't have them stick out more than maybe less than 1/2", but I haven't tried anything longer so I might be wrong.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


Mike, I have them stuck out so far to show them clear in the photos. For cutting, the set screw is loosened and they are slid back as far as you like. I like mine sticking out about half to three quarters of an inch.

Randy, you have half the brain you say? Did you lose the other half? I told you to stop taking that out to play with.

Andy, drilling them wasn't hard at all. I use the grinder to make a forty five degree flat at the tip so I'd have a flat surface to start on. Then I made a forty five jig for the drill press out of scrap wood. Keep oil in the hole while drilling and everything went smooth as silk.

Thank you all for your kind words.


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


William,
I like the way you think! Why buy it if you can make it but if you have to buy it- make it better!!


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


William, You are a smart guy. The45 jig would never have occurred to me!


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


Hi William, when I first saw that handle I recognized it as oak burl and the pattern on it looks familiar to me too as I had spent time trying to figure how to use it without wasting it. You put it to good use where you can also enjoy the beauty of the wood. Good job my friend!


----------



## helluvawreck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


You have lots of nice tools there, William. They'll all be nice additions to your shop.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


That end mill is beautiful and the best use of the burl so you can admire it whenever you use it. Your new tools are really great; how wonderful to be able to make exactly what you need instead of buying something and hoping for the best. Do you sharpen them any different because they're pretty small? I guess it's not a problem since there's plenty more where they came from.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


Lew, those are my thoughts exactly.

Erwin, I just had to use that piece of burl on something g that would stay in my shop. Every oak burl pen I make never stays in my possession as soon as someone else sees it. Thank you so much for giving it to me. It is by far my favorite material I've turned so far.

Andy, my mind goes to throw together jigs immediately on something like this. I've learned over time that a make shift jig makes almost anything easier, and makes use of scrap wood before it goes into the wood heater.

Thank you Charles.

Doe, I done the initial sharpening on a grinder while holding them with vice grips. The only thing to be careful of is not to allow them to get to hot. That is true with most sharpening, but these small bits get hot quick when sharpening. After initial sharpening, because they are so small, a quick touchup on my nearby oil stone is all it needs.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


Some good stuff, William. Keep on turnin


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


Thank you roger.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


William, I just can't visualize jigs like you can so I have to rely on my buddies. Look at the cool jig Rance designed for my short log problem.


----------



## ssnvet

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


Very cool…. I wish I new more about turning


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Home Brews*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my last blog entry, you probably remember seeing the above tool. It is a tool sold by Penn State to hold router bits. It is a good idea that did not work too well for me. Well I took that tool and used it for the basis for an Oland type tool.
> When I posted it, a friend (Stefang) suggested modifying this design to protrude a bit out at an angle. I thought it was a great idea and it got the wheels in the old noggin to turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was suggested to drill a hole, split the end, and use a nut and bolt to tighten the split sides around the bit, holding it firmly in place. I thought this sounded like an easy way to do it since I did not have the proper tap to make neat little holes for set screws like you see in the factory made piece. So off again I went to town to see what I could come up with.
> First thing I done was stop by Hayden's, my favorite hardware store. I like the place because it's one of the few places left in town that still has that friendly, hometown feel. You walk in the door. People ask you can they help. Ok, that's normal. The difference is that these people are actually extremely knowledgeable in what they sell and know where everything you need is located in the store. I'll take that over the endless scavenger hunt at the big orange store any day of the week.
> I apologize for that little side track. Let's get back to the project at hand, tools.
> I figured that tapping holes to hold the bits was going to be something way out of my price range. After discussing it with the man at Hayden's, I realized that it was going to cost me less than five dollars for the tap, the proper drill bit for the tap, and a palm full of the proper sized set screws. So I decided that this was going to be the way to go. This eliminated the need to have that extra pinch length out past where the bit would protrude out.
> Next, I needed steele to make the bar from. I was thinking half inch, but the only half inch they had was something the salesman told me was extremely mild steele that would bend easily. He sold me on some five eighths cold roll steele to get the job done.
> So back to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how the business end of the tool turned out.
> There is just something I love about making my own tools. I think it is that ability to say, "this thing I made, I made it using a tool that, guess what, I made that too". It never hurts that it also usually saves me a lot of money in the process too. It is just a great pleasure to me to make my own tools when I get the opportunity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the new angle when I tested it on a scrap piece. Then I thought it would be nice to have a tool with the tip protruding straight out at a ninety degree angle. So I made that as well. After all, since the five eighths steele was only sold in forty eight inch lengths minimum, I had some extra stock.
> Speaking of that extra stock…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was making the second tool, I was thinking about the first tool. I thought I could reverse the bit and cut sharp upper corners in vessels or bowls by having the bit angles forty five degrees back towards the handle. Since I still had enough stock left over after making the second tool though, why not just make a third tool that would do just what I was thinking about. This eliminates having to have the end of my set screw riding on the tool rest, which is something I really don't like to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the ends of the four Oland type tools I now have. Of course the first one came from Penn State, but the other three I made. I tested them first with just the bar. I wanted to see how they performed before making handles. I love how they work and now just needed to turn some handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top one, the top one, has a pecan handle. I used pecan on it because I just happened to have grabbed a piece of pecan earlier when I was testing the tools. So I figured that, instead of wasting that piece of nice wood, I may as well turn off my test cuts and make it into a usable handle.
> The next two have sapelle handles. I love the look and feel of sapelle. Also, I have a lot of it.
> The bottom one is the Penn State tool and has the factory handle on it. One of these days I think I'm going to redo all the handles on my factory made tools just so I'll have handles that are made by me.
> The tools are different lengths. I done this for a reason. It is hard to tell from the photo, but from handle end to cutting end, they are made so that the actually cutting point is the same distance on all four tools. I like to keep it this way because I already knew that this distance was comfortable to me on the tool made be Penn State. There's no sense in messing with what works.
> 
> .
> 
> Not all of my home made brews work out just like I want them too. Some time back, some of you who read my blog regularly may remember that I went through several solutions to squaring pen blanks. I was determined not to spend the money on a pen mill when I could make something to do the job just as good.
> Well, the set up I had, using stick on sandpaper on a setup on my second lathe was actually working without any problems. The problem is that the sandpaper wore out fairly quickly. I'd move the paper around on the disk it stuck to often to get fresh abrasive. I happen to think about it recently though and figured up how much sandpaper I'd bought since starting with this setup. What I had already spent on it would have already bought me two pen mills, and it was was going to be a recurring cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to admit defeat on this one and order a pen mill set. Here is a link to this one. I ordered it from Penn State. I chose the steele cutter over the carbide because I've heard some people complain that the two cutter design of the carbide, versus four on the steele, can cause splitting and catching on hard woods. I seen where this could be highly possible, and since I do like to work with a wide variety of materials, settled on the steele set.
> It arrived promptly, as I've come to always expect from Penn State. I've never had a single complaint when ordering from that company.
> I immediately tested it out and liked it better over my old shop made system, except for one thing. The instructions say to use it in a drill or drill press along with a pen vice. If you click the link above and read the instructions for the tool, you can see a photo on the instructions that makes no sense to me. If you clamp a blank in the pen vice on your drill press, and the tube is straight enough so that you can run this pen mill down the middle with no issues, then you really have no need for a pen mill because your tube is already perfectly squared to your blank. Also, when I tried using it in a drill press, it grabbed too much for my liking.
> I hit the cutting edges a couple of time with a sharpening stone and then tried squaring a blank with the pen mill and the blank being held in each hand. It worked great this way. So I decided that I'd be using this as a hand held tool. To do this comfortably though, I needed a handle on it. There is just not much to grab ahold to on the cutting shafts behind the squaring cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While thinking about how I wanted to do this, I thought of this little doohickey. This is an extension shaft for a spade bit. The cutting shafts all fit perfectly in the end of this tool and tighten down using the set screws. I just needed one because this one is one I use all the time. Luckily, when I went to town to get the parts for the tools I showed earlier, they had these extension shafts at Hayden's for less than three bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just needed to turn a handle and use epoxy to attach it to the extension shaft. This allowed me to hold onto the tool, while still being able to swap out cutting shafts for different pen kits.
> For the handle, I started to use sapelle. Then I remembered this piece of oak burl a friend (Bearpie) had given me a while back. This particular piece had a bad crack right down the middle. I was worried about it blowing apart if I tried turning it thin enough for a pen. It was a perfect piece though for this small tool handle. Oak burl, in my opinion, is really too nice a piece to be used for a tool handle, but I just couldn't help myself. I do love the look of oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love oak burl enough that I just had to show you all one more photo so you can see the other side.
> .
> So till next time, happy turning.


Thank you Matt.

Andy, I'll be sure to check it out. 
I don't know if I "visualize" the jigs. I just have a problem and think to myself how to solve it in the shortest time possible.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Burls*

If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones. 
First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.








When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.








I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.








My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends. 
Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.

.

My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location. 
As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door. 
Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.








Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
This first one is called amboyna burl. 
I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it. 
Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.








This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try. 
If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.








Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.








This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out. 








This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.

.

I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.

Until next time, happy turning.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


Great stuff, William.
I'm glad you were able to make it to heaven & yet remain here on earth with the rest of us!!! ;^)

I know which pens are your faves….
For me the Black Palm and Texas Ebony are high on my list!

Keep on keepin' on….


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


they all look great William , i love the amboyna burl and the different colored clip looks like gun stock color , glad to see you finally got some shop time .the display case came out well with all those pens it should be easer to keep up with your inventory.


----------



## GaryC

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


That's some super pens, William. The display case is a great idea. Flower pot is pretty sharp too. And that burl is some really beautiful stuff.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


Very nice turnings William. I couldn't help but like the black palm best. Very interesting grain and colors.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


Thank you all.

Randy, the palm and ebony are nice, but I just have a weakness for burls.

Eddie, I thought about gun stocks too. The hardware on that pen is called gunmetal finish.

Gary, thank you.

Mike, the palm is a pretty wood. I wish I was better at taking extreme close up photos though. I tried getting a photo of the grain on that wood before turning and polishing but it kept turning out blurry. The grain was about the most interesting I've ever seen. I just can't think of a better word to describe it beside interesting.


----------



## StumpyNubs

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


WOW- That's a lot of nice pens!


----------



## ssnvet

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


Dang William… you are certainly mastering the turning craft.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


Thank you stumpy and Matt.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


William, I too am a big fan of all burls. That black palm is pretty special. I'm gonna look around as I may have some pieces of burl that are too small for me to use. I need to send you some more hedge and I'll toss in the burls if I find any.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


Thank you Andy. I always appreciate burls. Since I know that though, i'll wait for now on making your .45 Colt pen so I can choose a nice burl to make it with.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


Luv the pens, and the large holder. Well, all the holders, large and small.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


Thank you roger. 
One day I hope to make pens as nice as yours.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


The swirling grain of the flower pot is beautiful. It's hard to choose which pen I like best; they're all wonderful.

Have you thought of making an unpowered sander? Here's one from PSI. I've been using the Sorby one and it works great, even for pens. I have a bunch of Arbanet disks to save on the cost of disks.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


I have absolutely thought of using the same system you're talking about. 
One day I plan on trying it. Money, or the lack thereof, always seems to put a delay on things I want to try. 
What I plan on doing though is buying the bushing kit from captain Eddie. He sells a kit to make the same tool that you can buy. That will cut my cost down so I can affor to buy extra sand paper. 
As for the abrane, do they sell disks for that type system? Or are you cutting up the rectangular sheets like the ones I have now?


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


The disks I got from a local supplier who got them from England. They came in packages of twelve. I'm packing up the box to send you and I tossed in three each of 100, 240, and 400. I have a strip of 800 that I used on the sander without bothering to cut it round and it worked perfectly.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


I looked at Captain Eddie's sander and I like mine much better. In the picture the brass bits let the head turn freely (I oil it on occasion) and the distance is adjusted with grub screws (I don't think I've ever changed it).








I can also adjust the angle very easily to suit whatever I'm working on.









The box is in the mail and hopefully will arrive on Friday, postal systems willing.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Burls*
> 
> If you have been reading my blog, you probably already know that I have a major liking for burls, and I got the chance for this post to work with some new ones.
> First though, I'll get a couple of problems I've been dealing with out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When turning bowls, I've been having a hard time with sanding, especially on the end grain. I've read and watched videos online about power sanding and wanted to give it a try. I've had in my mind several different ways to make my own. However, on a recent trip to Jackson, Mississippi, I stopped by Harbour Freight and seen the above little doohickeys and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try the method out before going through the trouble of making them. These are rather cheaply made, but I figured they would hold up long enough for me to see if I like the outcome of power sanding using a drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried sanding end grain on cypress before and knew it is always a bear to do. So I thought it would be a good test of the power sanding method. I decided to make my wife a cypress flower pot, since cypress is known to hold up good to the elements.
> The flower pot turned out great using the power sanding attachments in a hand held drill. The end grain was just as smooth as the rosewood bowl I recently done. The difference is, I sanded for two minutes on the cypress flower pot, while I sanded for over two hours on the rosewood bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next problem I worked on recently was my pen display. I show my pens to lot of people. The problem was, with them sitting out in the open in a wood shop, they always stayed extremely dusty. It's kind of embarrassing to be showing someone a pen and have to wipe each and every one they ask about of all the dust, all the while apologizing for the messy look of them all.
> So I used some oak, sapelle, and plexiglass to make a cover for the pen display. This allows them to be seen and still be covered so I can see that they're not being messed with at a distance. Yes, I have had some grow legs and walk off on their own when they were lying out in the open. Also, it keeps dust off of the pens. When someone is interested in them, I can easily go and pick the cover straight off of the display so they can look at nice, clean, pens.
> The last problem I ran into recently was with my newly acquired pen mill. I don't know what I am not "getting", but I just hate the thing. After forty bucks and a good resharpening, you would think it would leave the ends of my pen blanks nice, clean, and square. That just is not the case. Yes, it squares the blanks. That is about all I can say about it. The end grain tears up though and leaves a terrible look between the two halves of a finished pen. It may work great for folks who use the center rings to break things up. I make almost all my pens these days though without center bands and must have a very clean end on the blanks. So, I am still using the mill for squaring up blanks that are badly out of square. However, once they are square and a majority of the extra material removed, I move back to my shop made sanding jig that has never failed me yet to leave crisp ends.
> Yes, I will have to keep up that recurring cost of sand paper for it, but it is worth it to me to keep my pens looking good.
> 
> .
> 
> My wife got a day off recently and we took a trip to Jackson. I had told her that I wanted to carry her to my "heaven on earth", Pickens Hardwoods. Well, we pulled up to the place where they usually have me drooling before I even get in the door good, to find out that it is now a metal and welding shop. I was so disappointed. It turns out, they had moved from their location in Clinton to further north in Jackson. The thing is though, we had to get back home before kids got home from school, so I could not take her to show her why I liked Pickens so much.
> I think my wife would tell how disappointed I was that I didn't even get the chance to pick up a couple of cheap pen blanks from Pickens like I'd planned, so the next day she talked me heading back towards Jackson and checking out their new location.
> As usual, I was not disappointed. There is a reason I call that place my heaven on earth. Although I can't possibly think of ever affording some of them, that place has just about ever type of wood you can think of from all reaches of the world. If I was not an honest man, I may think of grabbing what bowl blanks I could carry in that place and making a run for the door.
> Alright, I admit it. I have thought about it, but would never act on such a devious thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides the zebra wood and blood wood board I bought, I also emptied my wallet, and even got a few more dollars from my wife (about forty dollars more to be exact) buying pen blanks, in burls.
> This first one is called amboyna burl.
> I had never heard of this. The tag said it was shipped from Cambodia. At ten bucks for a set of two short pieces, enough for one pen, I was a little hesitant about even buying this one, but I just couldn't help it. I kept being drawn back to it from across the room. Even before turning, the wood had so many twists and turns in the grain that my eyes just got lost in it.
> Needless to say, this pen did not go in my pen display. I took pictures of it and put it with my own personal pens. I would love to get some more of these blanks one day. Until then though, this one is mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is redwood root burl. The blank, before turning, actually looked rather plain. It was burl though, so I had to give it a try.
> If you look real closely at this photograph, you can see the gap between the two halves of the pen. This is the condition I described earlier with using the pen mill. It was too late to do anything about this pen, but it was, and will be, the last pen I finish off with the pen mill. I'd rather use my old sanding jig and be assured of having clean lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is myrtle wood burl. Again, this one was kind of a mystery from looking at the blank, but a burl nonetheless. I love the way it turned out though.
> Ok, that's the last of the burls, but I still have a few more pens from the Picken's purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is black palm. You may notice that, while I stick with the same basic shape on all my pens, the back end of this one is much more slender than usual. The reason for that is tear out. This wood, while a most interesting looking wood, tears out way too easily. There was a point while turning this one that I was not sure I was going to be able to save it. It did not just tear out a few stands of grain. Whole hunks along the length of the grain would suddenly tear off and go flying. I backed off with the gouge and used a skew chisel to finish it up to what you see here. With the skew, I was able to slice it off cleaner without so much tear out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is called Texas ebony. I got it because I am always, for some reason, drawn to the darker woods. As a matter of fact, woods such as this one with the almost black look, have my attention from the start. This wood also was quite hard, which allowed me to buff it out to a nice shine before ever putting on a finish. The finish is just for protection. It had plenty enough of a gloss to it when it was just bare wood.
> 
> .
> 
> I also got a couple of piece of spalted lemon wood. At fifty cents a blank, I couldn't pass those up. I bought a three foot length of zebra wood and blood wood. I had no intended purpose for them, but they were in the sale pile because of some tiny imperfections in them. I just had to take them home. I am afraid I have turned the few burls blanks I got though. It always goes that way with me and burl wood. I just can't wait to get them on the lathe and see what surprises hide underneath the usually ugly exterior.
> 
> Until next time, happy turning.


I appreciate the package very much. 
I will be sure to check more on the sander like you have before committing to anything. I always appreciate input from other turners. 
Again, thank you very much.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Back To Basics*

As for the title of this blog, I had to get back to basics while turning the last couple of days. Before I get to that though, I want to get the one pen for this blog entry out of the way.








This is made from one of the pen blanks I bought on my recent trip to Pickens Hardwoods. I talked about that in my last blog entry. 
I was excited to turn this because it was labeled as spalted lemon wood. I usually love spalting, so I wanted to see what it looked like. Spalting is like burls, it's always a surprise as to how they are going to turn out. Well this one was really a surprise, but not the kind of surprise I was hoping for. From start to finish, I found no spalting in this wood at all. So it is just lemon wood, minus any spalting. I only payed fifty cents a piece for two blanks, so I am not too bummed out by it.








Now for the back to basics.
What you see here are my bowl tools. I have a few others, like my depth drill and such, but these are the ones designed for actually working the wood. Some are made by me. Some are bought. However, while turning a bowl the other day I got a little frustrated. I just could not get a clean finishing cut on the inside of a bowl I was turning. I tried the Oland tool at every possible way and direction I could think of. I had done it before, but it was a different type wood than I'd done it in and it just wasn't working out like I had planned. I sharpened the tool and tried again. I tried cleaning it up with very light passes with a scraper. Nothing I tried seemed to give me the results I would be happy with though.
So I sat with a cup of coffee and thought about this for a moment. That's when the thought came to me that I didn't have this problem in the past with this same wood. I had turned it before. So what was different? The only thing that was different was that I was stubbornly insisting on using these new tools that I had made myself.








So the answer to my problem was to get back to the basics that I had learned when I first started studying and learning to turn any bowls. All those tools, whether bought or made, are nice to have for those different circumstances. When it comes down to it though, there just is no substitute, in my opinion, for a good detail gouge and a skew chisel for getting clean cuts. 
If any of you are reading this and thinking of learning to turn, let me offer a bit of advice that I have learned, at least for me.
There are all kinds of tools. There are oland tools, hook tools, hollowing tools of all shapes and sizes, carbide, and a host of other ways to hollow bowls. I even seen a guy hollow a bowl once using nothing but a diamond shaped parting tool. If you want good clean cuts though without burnishing or catches though, learn to sharpen and use a gouge.
Next, on the outside of the bowl, or any spindle type work, if you can't get a clean cut with a sharp tool, even a gouge, a skew chisel will make quick work of it. For the longest time, I was scared to death of the skew. The skew, to me, was just a quick way to ruin anything I was trying to do. One day, I decided to just throw a piece of scrap on the lathe and not stop until I could use a skew, and boy am I glad I did. There are times that there is no better tool for the job than the skew. If you don't know how to use one, there is no other way to learn it besides practice.
















This bowl I turned really just to test how the power sanding attachments I've been talking so much about worked on small bowls. I knew I wasn't going to be able to easily get the direction I wanted inside this bowl while power sanding. So I wanted to see how that was going to work out. I was worried it would leave radial lines much like on a pen that one has either skipped grits on or failed to sand the length of after sanding with the lathe running. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. With a little tilting back and forth with the drill, it did a great job on this little piece of sapelle.
























I felt I was finally ready to turn this piece that I've been holding back on. I was wanting to build my confidence a bit before tackling this chunk of rosewood because I just knew I would cry like a baby if I messed it up.
This was from a six inch square chunk of rosewood that a friend (Bearpie) gave me a while back when he visited my shop. I know there are many, many turners out there that could have done a better job than I with it, but I am quite proud of myself with the results.








This one did not turn out being what I originally intended it to be. It was a two inch thick piece of six inch square lacewood. I intended to turn a shallow bowl. Midway through though, with the size and shape, I remembered a wooden ash tray I had seen somewhere and remembered that I had thought how much I would love to have one. Well this presented a perfect opportunity for me to do just that. It was the right size. So I used my tailstock to hold a scrap piece against the top of the bowl. Then I turned it down to the same as the sides of the bowl and use a drill and forstner bit to drill holes with the point where the bowl and scrap block met. Then I finished turning it.
.
Well that is all I have to show today.
Till next time, happy turning.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Back To Basics*
> 
> As for the title of this blog, I had to get back to basics while turning the last couple of days. Before I get to that though, I want to get the one pen for this blog entry out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made from one of the pen blanks I bought on my recent trip to Pickens Hardwoods. I talked about that in my last blog entry.
> I was excited to turn this because it was labeled as spalted lemon wood. I usually love spalting, so I wanted to see what it looked like. Spalting is like burls, it's always a surprise as to how they are going to turn out. Well this one was really a surprise, but not the kind of surprise I was hoping for. From start to finish, I found no spalting in this wood at all. So it is just lemon wood, minus any spalting. I only payed fifty cents a piece for two blanks, so I am not too bummed out by it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the back to basics.
> What you see here are my bowl tools. I have a few others, like my depth drill and such, but these are the ones designed for actually working the wood. Some are made by me. Some are bought. However, while turning a bowl the other day I got a little frustrated. I just could not get a clean finishing cut on the inside of a bowl I was turning. I tried the Oland tool at every possible way and direction I could think of. I had done it before, but it was a different type wood than I'd done it in and it just wasn't working out like I had planned. I sharpened the tool and tried again. I tried cleaning it up with very light passes with a scraper. Nothing I tried seemed to give me the results I would be happy with though.
> So I sat with a cup of coffee and thought about this for a moment. That's when the thought came to me that I didn't have this problem in the past with this same wood. I had turned it before. So what was different? The only thing that was different was that I was stubbornly insisting on using these new tools that I had made myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the answer to my problem was to get back to the basics that I had learned when I first started studying and learning to turn any bowls. All those tools, whether bought or made, are nice to have for those different circumstances. When it comes down to it though, there just is no substitute, in my opinion, for a good detail gouge and a skew chisel for getting clean cuts.
> If any of you are reading this and thinking of learning to turn, let me offer a bit of advice that I have learned, at least for me.
> There are all kinds of tools. There are oland tools, hook tools, hollowing tools of all shapes and sizes, carbide, and a host of other ways to hollow bowls. I even seen a guy hollow a bowl once using nothing but a diamond shaped parting tool. If you want good clean cuts though without burnishing or catches though, learn to sharpen and use a gouge.
> Next, on the outside of the bowl, or any spindle type work, if you can't get a clean cut with a sharp tool, even a gouge, a skew chisel will make quick work of it. For the longest time, I was scared to death of the skew. The skew, to me, was just a quick way to ruin anything I was trying to do. One day, I decided to just throw a piece of scrap on the lathe and not stop until I could use a skew, and boy am I glad I did. There are times that there is no better tool for the job than the skew. If you don't know how to use one, there is no other way to learn it besides practice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl I turned really just to test how the power sanding attachments I've been talking so much about worked on small bowls. I knew I wasn't going to be able to easily get the direction I wanted inside this bowl while power sanding. So I wanted to see how that was going to work out. I was worried it would leave radial lines much like on a pen that one has either skipped grits on or failed to sand the length of after sanding with the lathe running. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. With a little tilting back and forth with the drill, it did a great job on this little piece of sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt I was finally ready to turn this piece that I've been holding back on. I was wanting to build my confidence a bit before tackling this chunk of rosewood because I just knew I would cry like a baby if I messed it up.
> This was from a six inch square chunk of rosewood that a friend (Bearpie) gave me a while back when he visited my shop. I know there are many, many turners out there that could have done a better job than I with it, but I am quite proud of myself with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one did not turn out being what I originally intended it to be. It was a two inch thick piece of six inch square lacewood. I intended to turn a shallow bowl. Midway through though, with the size and shape, I remembered a wooden ash tray I had seen somewhere and remembered that I had thought how much I would love to have one. Well this presented a perfect opportunity for me to do just that. It was the right size. So I used my tailstock to hold a scrap piece against the top of the bowl. Then I turned it down to the same as the sides of the bowl and use a drill and forstner bit to drill holes with the point where the bowl and scrap block met. Then I finished turning it.
> .
> Well that is all I have to show today.
> Till next time, happy turning.


That unspalted lemonwood looks a lot like hedge or mulberry. I LOVE that bowl with the sapwood on part of the top edge!


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Back To Basics*
> 
> As for the title of this blog, I had to get back to basics while turning the last couple of days. Before I get to that though, I want to get the one pen for this blog entry out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made from one of the pen blanks I bought on my recent trip to Pickens Hardwoods. I talked about that in my last blog entry.
> I was excited to turn this because it was labeled as spalted lemon wood. I usually love spalting, so I wanted to see what it looked like. Spalting is like burls, it's always a surprise as to how they are going to turn out. Well this one was really a surprise, but not the kind of surprise I was hoping for. From start to finish, I found no spalting in this wood at all. So it is just lemon wood, minus any spalting. I only payed fifty cents a piece for two blanks, so I am not too bummed out by it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the back to basics.
> What you see here are my bowl tools. I have a few others, like my depth drill and such, but these are the ones designed for actually working the wood. Some are made by me. Some are bought. However, while turning a bowl the other day I got a little frustrated. I just could not get a clean finishing cut on the inside of a bowl I was turning. I tried the Oland tool at every possible way and direction I could think of. I had done it before, but it was a different type wood than I'd done it in and it just wasn't working out like I had planned. I sharpened the tool and tried again. I tried cleaning it up with very light passes with a scraper. Nothing I tried seemed to give me the results I would be happy with though.
> So I sat with a cup of coffee and thought about this for a moment. That's when the thought came to me that I didn't have this problem in the past with this same wood. I had turned it before. So what was different? The only thing that was different was that I was stubbornly insisting on using these new tools that I had made myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the answer to my problem was to get back to the basics that I had learned when I first started studying and learning to turn any bowls. All those tools, whether bought or made, are nice to have for those different circumstances. When it comes down to it though, there just is no substitute, in my opinion, for a good detail gouge and a skew chisel for getting clean cuts.
> If any of you are reading this and thinking of learning to turn, let me offer a bit of advice that I have learned, at least for me.
> There are all kinds of tools. There are oland tools, hook tools, hollowing tools of all shapes and sizes, carbide, and a host of other ways to hollow bowls. I even seen a guy hollow a bowl once using nothing but a diamond shaped parting tool. If you want good clean cuts though without burnishing or catches though, learn to sharpen and use a gouge.
> Next, on the outside of the bowl, or any spindle type work, if you can't get a clean cut with a sharp tool, even a gouge, a skew chisel will make quick work of it. For the longest time, I was scared to death of the skew. The skew, to me, was just a quick way to ruin anything I was trying to do. One day, I decided to just throw a piece of scrap on the lathe and not stop until I could use a skew, and boy am I glad I did. There are times that there is no better tool for the job than the skew. If you don't know how to use one, there is no other way to learn it besides practice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl I turned really just to test how the power sanding attachments I've been talking so much about worked on small bowls. I knew I wasn't going to be able to easily get the direction I wanted inside this bowl while power sanding. So I wanted to see how that was going to work out. I was worried it would leave radial lines much like on a pen that one has either skipped grits on or failed to sand the length of after sanding with the lathe running. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. With a little tilting back and forth with the drill, it did a great job on this little piece of sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt I was finally ready to turn this piece that I've been holding back on. I was wanting to build my confidence a bit before tackling this chunk of rosewood because I just knew I would cry like a baby if I messed it up.
> This was from a six inch square chunk of rosewood that a friend (Bearpie) gave me a while back when he visited my shop. I know there are many, many turners out there that could have done a better job than I with it, but I am quite proud of myself with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one did not turn out being what I originally intended it to be. It was a two inch thick piece of six inch square lacewood. I intended to turn a shallow bowl. Midway through though, with the size and shape, I remembered a wooden ash tray I had seen somewhere and remembered that I had thought how much I would love to have one. Well this presented a perfect opportunity for me to do just that. It was the right size. So I used my tailstock to hold a scrap piece against the top of the bowl. Then I turned it down to the same as the sides of the bowl and use a drill and forstner bit to drill holes with the point where the bowl and scrap block met. Then I finished turning it.
> .
> Well that is all I have to show today.
> Till next time, happy turning.


Although I haven't yet started turning….
Your thoughts, insights and tips will go a long way towards making my entry into this world much more successful!!!
Keep up the good work, both blogging and turning. It is all appreciated and enjoyed.

BTW: The bowl looks awesome!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Back To Basics*
> 
> As for the title of this blog, I had to get back to basics while turning the last couple of days. Before I get to that though, I want to get the one pen for this blog entry out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made from one of the pen blanks I bought on my recent trip to Pickens Hardwoods. I talked about that in my last blog entry.
> I was excited to turn this because it was labeled as spalted lemon wood. I usually love spalting, so I wanted to see what it looked like. Spalting is like burls, it's always a surprise as to how they are going to turn out. Well this one was really a surprise, but not the kind of surprise I was hoping for. From start to finish, I found no spalting in this wood at all. So it is just lemon wood, minus any spalting. I only payed fifty cents a piece for two blanks, so I am not too bummed out by it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the back to basics.
> What you see here are my bowl tools. I have a few others, like my depth drill and such, but these are the ones designed for actually working the wood. Some are made by me. Some are bought. However, while turning a bowl the other day I got a little frustrated. I just could not get a clean finishing cut on the inside of a bowl I was turning. I tried the Oland tool at every possible way and direction I could think of. I had done it before, but it was a different type wood than I'd done it in and it just wasn't working out like I had planned. I sharpened the tool and tried again. I tried cleaning it up with very light passes with a scraper. Nothing I tried seemed to give me the results I would be happy with though.
> So I sat with a cup of coffee and thought about this for a moment. That's when the thought came to me that I didn't have this problem in the past with this same wood. I had turned it before. So what was different? The only thing that was different was that I was stubbornly insisting on using these new tools that I had made myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the answer to my problem was to get back to the basics that I had learned when I first started studying and learning to turn any bowls. All those tools, whether bought or made, are nice to have for those different circumstances. When it comes down to it though, there just is no substitute, in my opinion, for a good detail gouge and a skew chisel for getting clean cuts.
> If any of you are reading this and thinking of learning to turn, let me offer a bit of advice that I have learned, at least for me.
> There are all kinds of tools. There are oland tools, hook tools, hollowing tools of all shapes and sizes, carbide, and a host of other ways to hollow bowls. I even seen a guy hollow a bowl once using nothing but a diamond shaped parting tool. If you want good clean cuts though without burnishing or catches though, learn to sharpen and use a gouge.
> Next, on the outside of the bowl, or any spindle type work, if you can't get a clean cut with a sharp tool, even a gouge, a skew chisel will make quick work of it. For the longest time, I was scared to death of the skew. The skew, to me, was just a quick way to ruin anything I was trying to do. One day, I decided to just throw a piece of scrap on the lathe and not stop until I could use a skew, and boy am I glad I did. There are times that there is no better tool for the job than the skew. If you don't know how to use one, there is no other way to learn it besides practice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl I turned really just to test how the power sanding attachments I've been talking so much about worked on small bowls. I knew I wasn't going to be able to easily get the direction I wanted inside this bowl while power sanding. So I wanted to see how that was going to work out. I was worried it would leave radial lines much like on a pen that one has either skipped grits on or failed to sand the length of after sanding with the lathe running. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. With a little tilting back and forth with the drill, it did a great job on this little piece of sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt I was finally ready to turn this piece that I've been holding back on. I was wanting to build my confidence a bit before tackling this chunk of rosewood because I just knew I would cry like a baby if I messed it up.
> This was from a six inch square chunk of rosewood that a friend (Bearpie) gave me a while back when he visited my shop. I know there are many, many turners out there that could have done a better job than I with it, but I am quite proud of myself with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one did not turn out being what I originally intended it to be. It was a two inch thick piece of six inch square lacewood. I intended to turn a shallow bowl. Midway through though, with the size and shape, I remembered a wooden ash tray I had seen somewhere and remembered that I had thought how much I would love to have one. Well this presented a perfect opportunity for me to do just that. It was the right size. So I used my tailstock to hold a scrap piece against the top of the bowl. Then I turned it down to the same as the sides of the bowl and use a drill and forstner bit to drill holes with the point where the bowl and scrap block met. Then I finished turning it.
> .
> Well that is all I have to show today.
> Till next time, happy turning.


Andy, thank you. I was thinking the same thing as I got near completion of the pen.
Some woods I swear I think are known by different names dependong on what part of the country you are in when you ask what it is called. Hedgeapple and oasage orange comes to mind. 
As for the bowl, that is exactly why I wanted to turn that bowl. I knew that sapwood on the top edge would create a dramatic look. As always with turning though, you never know exactly what it'll turn out to be until you spin it and reveal what is underneath the outter layers. That is part of what makes turning so exciting to me.

Randy, thank you. 
I cannot stress the importance of learning that skew enough. I've talked with some turners who have been doing it for a lot longer than I have, yet still shy away from the skew chisel. For some tasks, knowing how to handle that skew will make all the difference in the world.


----------



## NateMeadows

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Back To Basics*
> 
> As for the title of this blog, I had to get back to basics while turning the last couple of days. Before I get to that though, I want to get the one pen for this blog entry out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made from one of the pen blanks I bought on my recent trip to Pickens Hardwoods. I talked about that in my last blog entry.
> I was excited to turn this because it was labeled as spalted lemon wood. I usually love spalting, so I wanted to see what it looked like. Spalting is like burls, it's always a surprise as to how they are going to turn out. Well this one was really a surprise, but not the kind of surprise I was hoping for. From start to finish, I found no spalting in this wood at all. So it is just lemon wood, minus any spalting. I only payed fifty cents a piece for two blanks, so I am not too bummed out by it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the back to basics.
> What you see here are my bowl tools. I have a few others, like my depth drill and such, but these are the ones designed for actually working the wood. Some are made by me. Some are bought. However, while turning a bowl the other day I got a little frustrated. I just could not get a clean finishing cut on the inside of a bowl I was turning. I tried the Oland tool at every possible way and direction I could think of. I had done it before, but it was a different type wood than I'd done it in and it just wasn't working out like I had planned. I sharpened the tool and tried again. I tried cleaning it up with very light passes with a scraper. Nothing I tried seemed to give me the results I would be happy with though.
> So I sat with a cup of coffee and thought about this for a moment. That's when the thought came to me that I didn't have this problem in the past with this same wood. I had turned it before. So what was different? The only thing that was different was that I was stubbornly insisting on using these new tools that I had made myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the answer to my problem was to get back to the basics that I had learned when I first started studying and learning to turn any bowls. All those tools, whether bought or made, are nice to have for those different circumstances. When it comes down to it though, there just is no substitute, in my opinion, for a good detail gouge and a skew chisel for getting clean cuts.
> If any of you are reading this and thinking of learning to turn, let me offer a bit of advice that I have learned, at least for me.
> There are all kinds of tools. There are oland tools, hook tools, hollowing tools of all shapes and sizes, carbide, and a host of other ways to hollow bowls. I even seen a guy hollow a bowl once using nothing but a diamond shaped parting tool. If you want good clean cuts though without burnishing or catches though, learn to sharpen and use a gouge.
> Next, on the outside of the bowl, or any spindle type work, if you can't get a clean cut with a sharp tool, even a gouge, a skew chisel will make quick work of it. For the longest time, I was scared to death of the skew. The skew, to me, was just a quick way to ruin anything I was trying to do. One day, I decided to just throw a piece of scrap on the lathe and not stop until I could use a skew, and boy am I glad I did. There are times that there is no better tool for the job than the skew. If you don't know how to use one, there is no other way to learn it besides practice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl I turned really just to test how the power sanding attachments I've been talking so much about worked on small bowls. I knew I wasn't going to be able to easily get the direction I wanted inside this bowl while power sanding. So I wanted to see how that was going to work out. I was worried it would leave radial lines much like on a pen that one has either skipped grits on or failed to sand the length of after sanding with the lathe running. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. With a little tilting back and forth with the drill, it did a great job on this little piece of sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt I was finally ready to turn this piece that I've been holding back on. I was wanting to build my confidence a bit before tackling this chunk of rosewood because I just knew I would cry like a baby if I messed it up.
> This was from a six inch square chunk of rosewood that a friend (Bearpie) gave me a while back when he visited my shop. I know there are many, many turners out there that could have done a better job than I with it, but I am quite proud of myself with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one did not turn out being what I originally intended it to be. It was a two inch thick piece of six inch square lacewood. I intended to turn a shallow bowl. Midway through though, with the size and shape, I remembered a wooden ash tray I had seen somewhere and remembered that I had thought how much I would love to have one. Well this presented a perfect opportunity for me to do just that. It was the right size. So I used my tailstock to hold a scrap piece against the top of the bowl. Then I turned it down to the same as the sides of the bowl and use a drill and forstner bit to drill holes with the point where the bowl and scrap block met. Then I finished turning it.
> .
> Well that is all I have to show today.
> Till next time, happy turning.


William, It is such a pleasure to watch you grow! You truly cut yourself short! Your skill is much higher than you think but I do like that you always remain humble and ready to learn. The rosewood bowl is beautiful! Outstanding work! Keep it up!!

Nate


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Back To Basics*
> 
> As for the title of this blog, I had to get back to basics while turning the last couple of days. Before I get to that though, I want to get the one pen for this blog entry out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made from one of the pen blanks I bought on my recent trip to Pickens Hardwoods. I talked about that in my last blog entry.
> I was excited to turn this because it was labeled as spalted lemon wood. I usually love spalting, so I wanted to see what it looked like. Spalting is like burls, it's always a surprise as to how they are going to turn out. Well this one was really a surprise, but not the kind of surprise I was hoping for. From start to finish, I found no spalting in this wood at all. So it is just lemon wood, minus any spalting. I only payed fifty cents a piece for two blanks, so I am not too bummed out by it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the back to basics.
> What you see here are my bowl tools. I have a few others, like my depth drill and such, but these are the ones designed for actually working the wood. Some are made by me. Some are bought. However, while turning a bowl the other day I got a little frustrated. I just could not get a clean finishing cut on the inside of a bowl I was turning. I tried the Oland tool at every possible way and direction I could think of. I had done it before, but it was a different type wood than I'd done it in and it just wasn't working out like I had planned. I sharpened the tool and tried again. I tried cleaning it up with very light passes with a scraper. Nothing I tried seemed to give me the results I would be happy with though.
> So I sat with a cup of coffee and thought about this for a moment. That's when the thought came to me that I didn't have this problem in the past with this same wood. I had turned it before. So what was different? The only thing that was different was that I was stubbornly insisting on using these new tools that I had made myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the answer to my problem was to get back to the basics that I had learned when I first started studying and learning to turn any bowls. All those tools, whether bought or made, are nice to have for those different circumstances. When it comes down to it though, there just is no substitute, in my opinion, for a good detail gouge and a skew chisel for getting clean cuts.
> If any of you are reading this and thinking of learning to turn, let me offer a bit of advice that I have learned, at least for me.
> There are all kinds of tools. There are oland tools, hook tools, hollowing tools of all shapes and sizes, carbide, and a host of other ways to hollow bowls. I even seen a guy hollow a bowl once using nothing but a diamond shaped parting tool. If you want good clean cuts though without burnishing or catches though, learn to sharpen and use a gouge.
> Next, on the outside of the bowl, or any spindle type work, if you can't get a clean cut with a sharp tool, even a gouge, a skew chisel will make quick work of it. For the longest time, I was scared to death of the skew. The skew, to me, was just a quick way to ruin anything I was trying to do. One day, I decided to just throw a piece of scrap on the lathe and not stop until I could use a skew, and boy am I glad I did. There are times that there is no better tool for the job than the skew. If you don't know how to use one, there is no other way to learn it besides practice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl I turned really just to test how the power sanding attachments I've been talking so much about worked on small bowls. I knew I wasn't going to be able to easily get the direction I wanted inside this bowl while power sanding. So I wanted to see how that was going to work out. I was worried it would leave radial lines much like on a pen that one has either skipped grits on or failed to sand the length of after sanding with the lathe running. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. With a little tilting back and forth with the drill, it did a great job on this little piece of sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt I was finally ready to turn this piece that I've been holding back on. I was wanting to build my confidence a bit before tackling this chunk of rosewood because I just knew I would cry like a baby if I messed it up.
> This was from a six inch square chunk of rosewood that a friend (Bearpie) gave me a while back when he visited my shop. I know there are many, many turners out there that could have done a better job than I with it, but I am quite proud of myself with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one did not turn out being what I originally intended it to be. It was a two inch thick piece of six inch square lacewood. I intended to turn a shallow bowl. Midway through though, with the size and shape, I remembered a wooden ash tray I had seen somewhere and remembered that I had thought how much I would love to have one. Well this presented a perfect opportunity for me to do just that. It was the right size. So I used my tailstock to hold a scrap piece against the top of the bowl. Then I turned it down to the same as the sides of the bowl and use a drill and forstner bit to drill holes with the point where the bowl and scrap block met. Then I finished turning it.
> .
> Well that is all I have to show today.
> Till next time, happy turning.


Thank you Nate.
It is so good to see you back.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Back To Basics*
> 
> As for the title of this blog, I had to get back to basics while turning the last couple of days. Before I get to that though, I want to get the one pen for this blog entry out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made from one of the pen blanks I bought on my recent trip to Pickens Hardwoods. I talked about that in my last blog entry.
> I was excited to turn this because it was labeled as spalted lemon wood. I usually love spalting, so I wanted to see what it looked like. Spalting is like burls, it's always a surprise as to how they are going to turn out. Well this one was really a surprise, but not the kind of surprise I was hoping for. From start to finish, I found no spalting in this wood at all. So it is just lemon wood, minus any spalting. I only payed fifty cents a piece for two blanks, so I am not too bummed out by it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the back to basics.
> What you see here are my bowl tools. I have a few others, like my depth drill and such, but these are the ones designed for actually working the wood. Some are made by me. Some are bought. However, while turning a bowl the other day I got a little frustrated. I just could not get a clean finishing cut on the inside of a bowl I was turning. I tried the Oland tool at every possible way and direction I could think of. I had done it before, but it was a different type wood than I'd done it in and it just wasn't working out like I had planned. I sharpened the tool and tried again. I tried cleaning it up with very light passes with a scraper. Nothing I tried seemed to give me the results I would be happy with though.
> So I sat with a cup of coffee and thought about this for a moment. That's when the thought came to me that I didn't have this problem in the past with this same wood. I had turned it before. So what was different? The only thing that was different was that I was stubbornly insisting on using these new tools that I had made myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the answer to my problem was to get back to the basics that I had learned when I first started studying and learning to turn any bowls. All those tools, whether bought or made, are nice to have for those different circumstances. When it comes down to it though, there just is no substitute, in my opinion, for a good detail gouge and a skew chisel for getting clean cuts.
> If any of you are reading this and thinking of learning to turn, let me offer a bit of advice that I have learned, at least for me.
> There are all kinds of tools. There are oland tools, hook tools, hollowing tools of all shapes and sizes, carbide, and a host of other ways to hollow bowls. I even seen a guy hollow a bowl once using nothing but a diamond shaped parting tool. If you want good clean cuts though without burnishing or catches though, learn to sharpen and use a gouge.
> Next, on the outside of the bowl, or any spindle type work, if you can't get a clean cut with a sharp tool, even a gouge, a skew chisel will make quick work of it. For the longest time, I was scared to death of the skew. The skew, to me, was just a quick way to ruin anything I was trying to do. One day, I decided to just throw a piece of scrap on the lathe and not stop until I could use a skew, and boy am I glad I did. There are times that there is no better tool for the job than the skew. If you don't know how to use one, there is no other way to learn it besides practice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl I turned really just to test how the power sanding attachments I've been talking so much about worked on small bowls. I knew I wasn't going to be able to easily get the direction I wanted inside this bowl while power sanding. So I wanted to see how that was going to work out. I was worried it would leave radial lines much like on a pen that one has either skipped grits on or failed to sand the length of after sanding with the lathe running. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. With a little tilting back and forth with the drill, it did a great job on this little piece of sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt I was finally ready to turn this piece that I've been holding back on. I was wanting to build my confidence a bit before tackling this chunk of rosewood because I just knew I would cry like a baby if I messed it up.
> This was from a six inch square chunk of rosewood that a friend (Bearpie) gave me a while back when he visited my shop. I know there are many, many turners out there that could have done a better job than I with it, but I am quite proud of myself with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one did not turn out being what I originally intended it to be. It was a two inch thick piece of six inch square lacewood. I intended to turn a shallow bowl. Midway through though, with the size and shape, I remembered a wooden ash tray I had seen somewhere and remembered that I had thought how much I would love to have one. Well this presented a perfect opportunity for me to do just that. It was the right size. So I used my tailstock to hold a scrap piece against the top of the bowl. Then I turned it down to the same as the sides of the bowl and use a drill and forstner bit to drill holes with the point where the bowl and scrap block met. Then I finished turning it.
> .
> Well that is all I have to show today.
> Till next time, happy turning.


The turning I have done has been by gouges. I'll take your advice on learning the skew. Thnx for your output William, it's appreciated.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Back To Basics*
> 
> As for the title of this blog, I had to get back to basics while turning the last couple of days. Before I get to that though, I want to get the one pen for this blog entry out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made from one of the pen blanks I bought on my recent trip to Pickens Hardwoods. I talked about that in my last blog entry.
> I was excited to turn this because it was labeled as spalted lemon wood. I usually love spalting, so I wanted to see what it looked like. Spalting is like burls, it's always a surprise as to how they are going to turn out. Well this one was really a surprise, but not the kind of surprise I was hoping for. From start to finish, I found no spalting in this wood at all. So it is just lemon wood, minus any spalting. I only payed fifty cents a piece for two blanks, so I am not too bummed out by it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the back to basics.
> What you see here are my bowl tools. I have a few others, like my depth drill and such, but these are the ones designed for actually working the wood. Some are made by me. Some are bought. However, while turning a bowl the other day I got a little frustrated. I just could not get a clean finishing cut on the inside of a bowl I was turning. I tried the Oland tool at every possible way and direction I could think of. I had done it before, but it was a different type wood than I'd done it in and it just wasn't working out like I had planned. I sharpened the tool and tried again. I tried cleaning it up with very light passes with a scraper. Nothing I tried seemed to give me the results I would be happy with though.
> So I sat with a cup of coffee and thought about this for a moment. That's when the thought came to me that I didn't have this problem in the past with this same wood. I had turned it before. So what was different? The only thing that was different was that I was stubbornly insisting on using these new tools that I had made myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the answer to my problem was to get back to the basics that I had learned when I first started studying and learning to turn any bowls. All those tools, whether bought or made, are nice to have for those different circumstances. When it comes down to it though, there just is no substitute, in my opinion, for a good detail gouge and a skew chisel for getting clean cuts.
> If any of you are reading this and thinking of learning to turn, let me offer a bit of advice that I have learned, at least for me.
> There are all kinds of tools. There are oland tools, hook tools, hollowing tools of all shapes and sizes, carbide, and a host of other ways to hollow bowls. I even seen a guy hollow a bowl once using nothing but a diamond shaped parting tool. If you want good clean cuts though without burnishing or catches though, learn to sharpen and use a gouge.
> Next, on the outside of the bowl, or any spindle type work, if you can't get a clean cut with a sharp tool, even a gouge, a skew chisel will make quick work of it. For the longest time, I was scared to death of the skew. The skew, to me, was just a quick way to ruin anything I was trying to do. One day, I decided to just throw a piece of scrap on the lathe and not stop until I could use a skew, and boy am I glad I did. There are times that there is no better tool for the job than the skew. If you don't know how to use one, there is no other way to learn it besides practice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl I turned really just to test how the power sanding attachments I've been talking so much about worked on small bowls. I knew I wasn't going to be able to easily get the direction I wanted inside this bowl while power sanding. So I wanted to see how that was going to work out. I was worried it would leave radial lines much like on a pen that one has either skipped grits on or failed to sand the length of after sanding with the lathe running. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. With a little tilting back and forth with the drill, it did a great job on this little piece of sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt I was finally ready to turn this piece that I've been holding back on. I was wanting to build my confidence a bit before tackling this chunk of rosewood because I just knew I would cry like a baby if I messed it up.
> This was from a six inch square chunk of rosewood that a friend (Bearpie) gave me a while back when he visited my shop. I know there are many, many turners out there that could have done a better job than I with it, but I am quite proud of myself with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one did not turn out being what I originally intended it to be. It was a two inch thick piece of six inch square lacewood. I intended to turn a shallow bowl. Midway through though, with the size and shape, I remembered a wooden ash tray I had seen somewhere and remembered that I had thought how much I would love to have one. Well this presented a perfect opportunity for me to do just that. It was the right size. So I used my tailstock to hold a scrap piece against the top of the bowl. Then I turned it down to the same as the sides of the bowl and use a drill and forstner bit to drill holes with the point where the bowl and scrap block met. Then I finished turning it.
> .
> Well that is all I have to show today.
> Till next time, happy turning.


Thank you roger. 
I too used mainly the gouge for a good long while. 
I decided to learn the skew after watching a video from Eddie Castilan (so?)
They call him captain Eddie. 
I'll post a link next time I'm on my laptop. 
He made the suggestion, strongly. 
I am glad I learned it.


----------



## phtaylor36

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Back To Basics*
> 
> As for the title of this blog, I had to get back to basics while turning the last couple of days. Before I get to that though, I want to get the one pen for this blog entry out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made from one of the pen blanks I bought on my recent trip to Pickens Hardwoods. I talked about that in my last blog entry.
> I was excited to turn this because it was labeled as spalted lemon wood. I usually love spalting, so I wanted to see what it looked like. Spalting is like burls, it's always a surprise as to how they are going to turn out. Well this one was really a surprise, but not the kind of surprise I was hoping for. From start to finish, I found no spalting in this wood at all. So it is just lemon wood, minus any spalting. I only payed fifty cents a piece for two blanks, so I am not too bummed out by it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the back to basics.
> What you see here are my bowl tools. I have a few others, like my depth drill and such, but these are the ones designed for actually working the wood. Some are made by me. Some are bought. However, while turning a bowl the other day I got a little frustrated. I just could not get a clean finishing cut on the inside of a bowl I was turning. I tried the Oland tool at every possible way and direction I could think of. I had done it before, but it was a different type wood than I'd done it in and it just wasn't working out like I had planned. I sharpened the tool and tried again. I tried cleaning it up with very light passes with a scraper. Nothing I tried seemed to give me the results I would be happy with though.
> So I sat with a cup of coffee and thought about this for a moment. That's when the thought came to me that I didn't have this problem in the past with this same wood. I had turned it before. So what was different? The only thing that was different was that I was stubbornly insisting on using these new tools that I had made myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the answer to my problem was to get back to the basics that I had learned when I first started studying and learning to turn any bowls. All those tools, whether bought or made, are nice to have for those different circumstances. When it comes down to it though, there just is no substitute, in my opinion, for a good detail gouge and a skew chisel for getting clean cuts.
> If any of you are reading this and thinking of learning to turn, let me offer a bit of advice that I have learned, at least for me.
> There are all kinds of tools. There are oland tools, hook tools, hollowing tools of all shapes and sizes, carbide, and a host of other ways to hollow bowls. I even seen a guy hollow a bowl once using nothing but a diamond shaped parting tool. If you want good clean cuts though without burnishing or catches though, learn to sharpen and use a gouge.
> Next, on the outside of the bowl, or any spindle type work, if you can't get a clean cut with a sharp tool, even a gouge, a skew chisel will make quick work of it. For the longest time, I was scared to death of the skew. The skew, to me, was just a quick way to ruin anything I was trying to do. One day, I decided to just throw a piece of scrap on the lathe and not stop until I could use a skew, and boy am I glad I did. There are times that there is no better tool for the job than the skew. If you don't know how to use one, there is no other way to learn it besides practice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl I turned really just to test how the power sanding attachments I've been talking so much about worked on small bowls. I knew I wasn't going to be able to easily get the direction I wanted inside this bowl while power sanding. So I wanted to see how that was going to work out. I was worried it would leave radial lines much like on a pen that one has either skipped grits on or failed to sand the length of after sanding with the lathe running. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. With a little tilting back and forth with the drill, it did a great job on this little piece of sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt I was finally ready to turn this piece that I've been holding back on. I was wanting to build my confidence a bit before tackling this chunk of rosewood because I just knew I would cry like a baby if I messed it up.
> This was from a six inch square chunk of rosewood that a friend (Bearpie) gave me a while back when he visited my shop. I know there are many, many turners out there that could have done a better job than I with it, but I am quite proud of myself with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one did not turn out being what I originally intended it to be. It was a two inch thick piece of six inch square lacewood. I intended to turn a shallow bowl. Midway through though, with the size and shape, I remembered a wooden ash tray I had seen somewhere and remembered that I had thought how much I would love to have one. Well this presented a perfect opportunity for me to do just that. It was the right size. So I used my tailstock to hold a scrap piece against the top of the bowl. Then I turned it down to the same as the sides of the bowl and use a drill and forstner bit to drill holes with the point where the bowl and scrap block met. Then I finished turning it.
> .
> Well that is all I have to show today.
> Till next time, happy turning.


Looking amazing! If you keep at this as much as that scrollsaw I expect to see some amazing things. Keep it up.


----------



## ssnvet

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Back To Basics*
> 
> As for the title of this blog, I had to get back to basics while turning the last couple of days. Before I get to that though, I want to get the one pen for this blog entry out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made from one of the pen blanks I bought on my recent trip to Pickens Hardwoods. I talked about that in my last blog entry.
> I was excited to turn this because it was labeled as spalted lemon wood. I usually love spalting, so I wanted to see what it looked like. Spalting is like burls, it's always a surprise as to how they are going to turn out. Well this one was really a surprise, but not the kind of surprise I was hoping for. From start to finish, I found no spalting in this wood at all. So it is just lemon wood, minus any spalting. I only payed fifty cents a piece for two blanks, so I am not too bummed out by it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the back to basics.
> What you see here are my bowl tools. I have a few others, like my depth drill and such, but these are the ones designed for actually working the wood. Some are made by me. Some are bought. However, while turning a bowl the other day I got a little frustrated. I just could not get a clean finishing cut on the inside of a bowl I was turning. I tried the Oland tool at every possible way and direction I could think of. I had done it before, but it was a different type wood than I'd done it in and it just wasn't working out like I had planned. I sharpened the tool and tried again. I tried cleaning it up with very light passes with a scraper. Nothing I tried seemed to give me the results I would be happy with though.
> So I sat with a cup of coffee and thought about this for a moment. That's when the thought came to me that I didn't have this problem in the past with this same wood. I had turned it before. So what was different? The only thing that was different was that I was stubbornly insisting on using these new tools that I had made myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the answer to my problem was to get back to the basics that I had learned when I first started studying and learning to turn any bowls. All those tools, whether bought or made, are nice to have for those different circumstances. When it comes down to it though, there just is no substitute, in my opinion, for a good detail gouge and a skew chisel for getting clean cuts.
> If any of you are reading this and thinking of learning to turn, let me offer a bit of advice that I have learned, at least for me.
> There are all kinds of tools. There are oland tools, hook tools, hollowing tools of all shapes and sizes, carbide, and a host of other ways to hollow bowls. I even seen a guy hollow a bowl once using nothing but a diamond shaped parting tool. If you want good clean cuts though without burnishing or catches though, learn to sharpen and use a gouge.
> Next, on the outside of the bowl, or any spindle type work, if you can't get a clean cut with a sharp tool, even a gouge, a skew chisel will make quick work of it. For the longest time, I was scared to death of the skew. The skew, to me, was just a quick way to ruin anything I was trying to do. One day, I decided to just throw a piece of scrap on the lathe and not stop until I could use a skew, and boy am I glad I did. There are times that there is no better tool for the job than the skew. If you don't know how to use one, there is no other way to learn it besides practice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl I turned really just to test how the power sanding attachments I've been talking so much about worked on small bowls. I knew I wasn't going to be able to easily get the direction I wanted inside this bowl while power sanding. So I wanted to see how that was going to work out. I was worried it would leave radial lines much like on a pen that one has either skipped grits on or failed to sand the length of after sanding with the lathe running. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. With a little tilting back and forth with the drill, it did a great job on this little piece of sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt I was finally ready to turn this piece that I've been holding back on. I was wanting to build my confidence a bit before tackling this chunk of rosewood because I just knew I would cry like a baby if I messed it up.
> This was from a six inch square chunk of rosewood that a friend (Bearpie) gave me a while back when he visited my shop. I know there are many, many turners out there that could have done a better job than I with it, but I am quite proud of myself with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one did not turn out being what I originally intended it to be. It was a two inch thick piece of six inch square lacewood. I intended to turn a shallow bowl. Midway through though, with the size and shape, I remembered a wooden ash tray I had seen somewhere and remembered that I had thought how much I would love to have one. Well this presented a perfect opportunity for me to do just that. It was the right size. So I used my tailstock to hold a scrap piece against the top of the bowl. Then I turned it down to the same as the sides of the bowl and use a drill and forstner bit to drill holes with the point where the bowl and scrap block met. Then I finished turning it.
> .
> Well that is all I have to show today.
> Till next time, happy turning.


You just keep gettin' better and better William


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Back To Basics*
> 
> As for the title of this blog, I had to get back to basics while turning the last couple of days. Before I get to that though, I want to get the one pen for this blog entry out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made from one of the pen blanks I bought on my recent trip to Pickens Hardwoods. I talked about that in my last blog entry.
> I was excited to turn this because it was labeled as spalted lemon wood. I usually love spalting, so I wanted to see what it looked like. Spalting is like burls, it's always a surprise as to how they are going to turn out. Well this one was really a surprise, but not the kind of surprise I was hoping for. From start to finish, I found no spalting in this wood at all. So it is just lemon wood, minus any spalting. I only payed fifty cents a piece for two blanks, so I am not too bummed out by it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the back to basics.
> What you see here are my bowl tools. I have a few others, like my depth drill and such, but these are the ones designed for actually working the wood. Some are made by me. Some are bought. However, while turning a bowl the other day I got a little frustrated. I just could not get a clean finishing cut on the inside of a bowl I was turning. I tried the Oland tool at every possible way and direction I could think of. I had done it before, but it was a different type wood than I'd done it in and it just wasn't working out like I had planned. I sharpened the tool and tried again. I tried cleaning it up with very light passes with a scraper. Nothing I tried seemed to give me the results I would be happy with though.
> So I sat with a cup of coffee and thought about this for a moment. That's when the thought came to me that I didn't have this problem in the past with this same wood. I had turned it before. So what was different? The only thing that was different was that I was stubbornly insisting on using these new tools that I had made myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the answer to my problem was to get back to the basics that I had learned when I first started studying and learning to turn any bowls. All those tools, whether bought or made, are nice to have for those different circumstances. When it comes down to it though, there just is no substitute, in my opinion, for a good detail gouge and a skew chisel for getting clean cuts.
> If any of you are reading this and thinking of learning to turn, let me offer a bit of advice that I have learned, at least for me.
> There are all kinds of tools. There are oland tools, hook tools, hollowing tools of all shapes and sizes, carbide, and a host of other ways to hollow bowls. I even seen a guy hollow a bowl once using nothing but a diamond shaped parting tool. If you want good clean cuts though without burnishing or catches though, learn to sharpen and use a gouge.
> Next, on the outside of the bowl, or any spindle type work, if you can't get a clean cut with a sharp tool, even a gouge, a skew chisel will make quick work of it. For the longest time, I was scared to death of the skew. The skew, to me, was just a quick way to ruin anything I was trying to do. One day, I decided to just throw a piece of scrap on the lathe and not stop until I could use a skew, and boy am I glad I did. There are times that there is no better tool for the job than the skew. If you don't know how to use one, there is no other way to learn it besides practice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl I turned really just to test how the power sanding attachments I've been talking so much about worked on small bowls. I knew I wasn't going to be able to easily get the direction I wanted inside this bowl while power sanding. So I wanted to see how that was going to work out. I was worried it would leave radial lines much like on a pen that one has either skipped grits on or failed to sand the length of after sanding with the lathe running. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. With a little tilting back and forth with the drill, it did a great job on this little piece of sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt I was finally ready to turn this piece that I've been holding back on. I was wanting to build my confidence a bit before tackling this chunk of rosewood because I just knew I would cry like a baby if I messed it up.
> This was from a six inch square chunk of rosewood that a friend (Bearpie) gave me a while back when he visited my shop. I know there are many, many turners out there that could have done a better job than I with it, but I am quite proud of myself with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one did not turn out being what I originally intended it to be. It was a two inch thick piece of six inch square lacewood. I intended to turn a shallow bowl. Midway through though, with the size and shape, I remembered a wooden ash tray I had seen somewhere and remembered that I had thought how much I would love to have one. Well this presented a perfect opportunity for me to do just that. It was the right size. So I used my tailstock to hold a scrap piece against the top of the bowl. Then I turned it down to the same as the sides of the bowl and use a drill and forstner bit to drill holes with the point where the bowl and scrap block met. Then I finished turning it.
> .
> Well that is all I have to show today.
> Till next time, happy turning.


You have improved a heap! Next step is to see how thin you can turn keeping uniform thickness! It is a lot harder than it seems it should be! I always love watching customers pick up a large vase, thinking it would be heavy, and using more muscles to pick it up and watch their expression change when they realize how light it really is!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Back To Basics*
> 
> As for the title of this blog, I had to get back to basics while turning the last couple of days. Before I get to that though, I want to get the one pen for this blog entry out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made from one of the pen blanks I bought on my recent trip to Pickens Hardwoods. I talked about that in my last blog entry.
> I was excited to turn this because it was labeled as spalted lemon wood. I usually love spalting, so I wanted to see what it looked like. Spalting is like burls, it's always a surprise as to how they are going to turn out. Well this one was really a surprise, but not the kind of surprise I was hoping for. From start to finish, I found no spalting in this wood at all. So it is just lemon wood, minus any spalting. I only payed fifty cents a piece for two blanks, so I am not too bummed out by it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the back to basics.
> What you see here are my bowl tools. I have a few others, like my depth drill and such, but these are the ones designed for actually working the wood. Some are made by me. Some are bought. However, while turning a bowl the other day I got a little frustrated. I just could not get a clean finishing cut on the inside of a bowl I was turning. I tried the Oland tool at every possible way and direction I could think of. I had done it before, but it was a different type wood than I'd done it in and it just wasn't working out like I had planned. I sharpened the tool and tried again. I tried cleaning it up with very light passes with a scraper. Nothing I tried seemed to give me the results I would be happy with though.
> So I sat with a cup of coffee and thought about this for a moment. That's when the thought came to me that I didn't have this problem in the past with this same wood. I had turned it before. So what was different? The only thing that was different was that I was stubbornly insisting on using these new tools that I had made myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the answer to my problem was to get back to the basics that I had learned when I first started studying and learning to turn any bowls. All those tools, whether bought or made, are nice to have for those different circumstances. When it comes down to it though, there just is no substitute, in my opinion, for a good detail gouge and a skew chisel for getting clean cuts.
> If any of you are reading this and thinking of learning to turn, let me offer a bit of advice that I have learned, at least for me.
> There are all kinds of tools. There are oland tools, hook tools, hollowing tools of all shapes and sizes, carbide, and a host of other ways to hollow bowls. I even seen a guy hollow a bowl once using nothing but a diamond shaped parting tool. If you want good clean cuts though without burnishing or catches though, learn to sharpen and use a gouge.
> Next, on the outside of the bowl, or any spindle type work, if you can't get a clean cut with a sharp tool, even a gouge, a skew chisel will make quick work of it. For the longest time, I was scared to death of the skew. The skew, to me, was just a quick way to ruin anything I was trying to do. One day, I decided to just throw a piece of scrap on the lathe and not stop until I could use a skew, and boy am I glad I did. There are times that there is no better tool for the job than the skew. If you don't know how to use one, there is no other way to learn it besides practice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl I turned really just to test how the power sanding attachments I've been talking so much about worked on small bowls. I knew I wasn't going to be able to easily get the direction I wanted inside this bowl while power sanding. So I wanted to see how that was going to work out. I was worried it would leave radial lines much like on a pen that one has either skipped grits on or failed to sand the length of after sanding with the lathe running. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. With a little tilting back and forth with the drill, it did a great job on this little piece of sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt I was finally ready to turn this piece that I've been holding back on. I was wanting to build my confidence a bit before tackling this chunk of rosewood because I just knew I would cry like a baby if I messed it up.
> This was from a six inch square chunk of rosewood that a friend (Bearpie) gave me a while back when he visited my shop. I know there are many, many turners out there that could have done a better job than I with it, but I am quite proud of myself with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one did not turn out being what I originally intended it to be. It was a two inch thick piece of six inch square lacewood. I intended to turn a shallow bowl. Midway through though, with the size and shape, I remembered a wooden ash tray I had seen somewhere and remembered that I had thought how much I would love to have one. Well this presented a perfect opportunity for me to do just that. It was the right size. So I used my tailstock to hold a scrap piece against the top of the bowl. Then I turned it down to the same as the sides of the bowl and use a drill and forstner bit to drill holes with the point where the bowl and scrap block met. Then I finished turning it.
> .
> Well that is all I have to show today.
> Till next time, happy turning.


Thank you all for your kind words.

Bearpie, I have learned the hard way how difficult it is to get walls super thin, and know it will take me a long time to master that one. 
So far, everytime I try going too thin, I wind up with a bottom with no sides or a bowl that is much shorter than I planned after slicing part if the side away.


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Back To Basics*
> 
> As for the title of this blog, I had to get back to basics while turning the last couple of days. Before I get to that though, I want to get the one pen for this blog entry out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made from one of the pen blanks I bought on my recent trip to Pickens Hardwoods. I talked about that in my last blog entry.
> I was excited to turn this because it was labeled as spalted lemon wood. I usually love spalting, so I wanted to see what it looked like. Spalting is like burls, it's always a surprise as to how they are going to turn out. Well this one was really a surprise, but not the kind of surprise I was hoping for. From start to finish, I found no spalting in this wood at all. So it is just lemon wood, minus any spalting. I only payed fifty cents a piece for two blanks, so I am not too bummed out by it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the back to basics.
> What you see here are my bowl tools. I have a few others, like my depth drill and such, but these are the ones designed for actually working the wood. Some are made by me. Some are bought. However, while turning a bowl the other day I got a little frustrated. I just could not get a clean finishing cut on the inside of a bowl I was turning. I tried the Oland tool at every possible way and direction I could think of. I had done it before, but it was a different type wood than I'd done it in and it just wasn't working out like I had planned. I sharpened the tool and tried again. I tried cleaning it up with very light passes with a scraper. Nothing I tried seemed to give me the results I would be happy with though.
> So I sat with a cup of coffee and thought about this for a moment. That's when the thought came to me that I didn't have this problem in the past with this same wood. I had turned it before. So what was different? The only thing that was different was that I was stubbornly insisting on using these new tools that I had made myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the answer to my problem was to get back to the basics that I had learned when I first started studying and learning to turn any bowls. All those tools, whether bought or made, are nice to have for those different circumstances. When it comes down to it though, there just is no substitute, in my opinion, for a good detail gouge and a skew chisel for getting clean cuts.
> If any of you are reading this and thinking of learning to turn, let me offer a bit of advice that I have learned, at least for me.
> There are all kinds of tools. There are oland tools, hook tools, hollowing tools of all shapes and sizes, carbide, and a host of other ways to hollow bowls. I even seen a guy hollow a bowl once using nothing but a diamond shaped parting tool. If you want good clean cuts though without burnishing or catches though, learn to sharpen and use a gouge.
> Next, on the outside of the bowl, or any spindle type work, if you can't get a clean cut with a sharp tool, even a gouge, a skew chisel will make quick work of it. For the longest time, I was scared to death of the skew. The skew, to me, was just a quick way to ruin anything I was trying to do. One day, I decided to just throw a piece of scrap on the lathe and not stop until I could use a skew, and boy am I glad I did. There are times that there is no better tool for the job than the skew. If you don't know how to use one, there is no other way to learn it besides practice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl I turned really just to test how the power sanding attachments I've been talking so much about worked on small bowls. I knew I wasn't going to be able to easily get the direction I wanted inside this bowl while power sanding. So I wanted to see how that was going to work out. I was worried it would leave radial lines much like on a pen that one has either skipped grits on or failed to sand the length of after sanding with the lathe running. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. With a little tilting back and forth with the drill, it did a great job on this little piece of sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt I was finally ready to turn this piece that I've been holding back on. I was wanting to build my confidence a bit before tackling this chunk of rosewood because I just knew I would cry like a baby if I messed it up.
> This was from a six inch square chunk of rosewood that a friend (Bearpie) gave me a while back when he visited my shop. I know there are many, many turners out there that could have done a better job than I with it, but I am quite proud of myself with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one did not turn out being what I originally intended it to be. It was a two inch thick piece of six inch square lacewood. I intended to turn a shallow bowl. Midway through though, with the size and shape, I remembered a wooden ash tray I had seen somewhere and remembered that I had thought how much I would love to have one. Well this presented a perfect opportunity for me to do just that. It was the right size. So I used my tailstock to hold a scrap piece against the top of the bowl. Then I turned it down to the same as the sides of the bowl and use a drill and forstner bit to drill holes with the point where the bowl and scrap block met. Then I finished turning it.
> .
> Well that is all I have to show today.
> Till next time, happy turning.


William,
Your advice about the skew is right on. The only thing I would add is that, like playing an instrument, you need to keep using the skew once you master it.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Back To Basics*
> 
> As for the title of this blog, I had to get back to basics while turning the last couple of days. Before I get to that though, I want to get the one pen for this blog entry out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made from one of the pen blanks I bought on my recent trip to Pickens Hardwoods. I talked about that in my last blog entry.
> I was excited to turn this because it was labeled as spalted lemon wood. I usually love spalting, so I wanted to see what it looked like. Spalting is like burls, it's always a surprise as to how they are going to turn out. Well this one was really a surprise, but not the kind of surprise I was hoping for. From start to finish, I found no spalting in this wood at all. So it is just lemon wood, minus any spalting. I only payed fifty cents a piece for two blanks, so I am not too bummed out by it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the back to basics.
> What you see here are my bowl tools. I have a few others, like my depth drill and such, but these are the ones designed for actually working the wood. Some are made by me. Some are bought. However, while turning a bowl the other day I got a little frustrated. I just could not get a clean finishing cut on the inside of a bowl I was turning. I tried the Oland tool at every possible way and direction I could think of. I had done it before, but it was a different type wood than I'd done it in and it just wasn't working out like I had planned. I sharpened the tool and tried again. I tried cleaning it up with very light passes with a scraper. Nothing I tried seemed to give me the results I would be happy with though.
> So I sat with a cup of coffee and thought about this for a moment. That's when the thought came to me that I didn't have this problem in the past with this same wood. I had turned it before. So what was different? The only thing that was different was that I was stubbornly insisting on using these new tools that I had made myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the answer to my problem was to get back to the basics that I had learned when I first started studying and learning to turn any bowls. All those tools, whether bought or made, are nice to have for those different circumstances. When it comes down to it though, there just is no substitute, in my opinion, for a good detail gouge and a skew chisel for getting clean cuts.
> If any of you are reading this and thinking of learning to turn, let me offer a bit of advice that I have learned, at least for me.
> There are all kinds of tools. There are oland tools, hook tools, hollowing tools of all shapes and sizes, carbide, and a host of other ways to hollow bowls. I even seen a guy hollow a bowl once using nothing but a diamond shaped parting tool. If you want good clean cuts though without burnishing or catches though, learn to sharpen and use a gouge.
> Next, on the outside of the bowl, or any spindle type work, if you can't get a clean cut with a sharp tool, even a gouge, a skew chisel will make quick work of it. For the longest time, I was scared to death of the skew. The skew, to me, was just a quick way to ruin anything I was trying to do. One day, I decided to just throw a piece of scrap on the lathe and not stop until I could use a skew, and boy am I glad I did. There are times that there is no better tool for the job than the skew. If you don't know how to use one, there is no other way to learn it besides practice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl I turned really just to test how the power sanding attachments I've been talking so much about worked on small bowls. I knew I wasn't going to be able to easily get the direction I wanted inside this bowl while power sanding. So I wanted to see how that was going to work out. I was worried it would leave radial lines much like on a pen that one has either skipped grits on or failed to sand the length of after sanding with the lathe running. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. With a little tilting back and forth with the drill, it did a great job on this little piece of sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt I was finally ready to turn this piece that I've been holding back on. I was wanting to build my confidence a bit before tackling this chunk of rosewood because I just knew I would cry like a baby if I messed it up.
> This was from a six inch square chunk of rosewood that a friend (Bearpie) gave me a while back when he visited my shop. I know there are many, many turners out there that could have done a better job than I with it, but I am quite proud of myself with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one did not turn out being what I originally intended it to be. It was a two inch thick piece of six inch square lacewood. I intended to turn a shallow bowl. Midway through though, with the size and shape, I remembered a wooden ash tray I had seen somewhere and remembered that I had thought how much I would love to have one. Well this presented a perfect opportunity for me to do just that. It was the right size. So I used my tailstock to hold a scrap piece against the top of the bowl. Then I turned it down to the same as the sides of the bowl and use a drill and forstner bit to drill holes with the point where the bowl and scrap block met. Then I finished turning it.
> .
> Well that is all I have to show today.
> Till next time, happy turning.


Thanks for the important lesson about the basics, William. It's so true and I'm glad you reminded me. The rosewood bowl is perfection. A wooden ashtray? I like the idea a lot, but isn't it a tad risky?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Back To Basics*
> 
> As for the title of this blog, I had to get back to basics while turning the last couple of days. Before I get to that though, I want to get the one pen for this blog entry out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made from one of the pen blanks I bought on my recent trip to Pickens Hardwoods. I talked about that in my last blog entry.
> I was excited to turn this because it was labeled as spalted lemon wood. I usually love spalting, so I wanted to see what it looked like. Spalting is like burls, it's always a surprise as to how they are going to turn out. Well this one was really a surprise, but not the kind of surprise I was hoping for. From start to finish, I found no spalting in this wood at all. So it is just lemon wood, minus any spalting. I only payed fifty cents a piece for two blanks, so I am not too bummed out by it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the back to basics.
> What you see here are my bowl tools. I have a few others, like my depth drill and such, but these are the ones designed for actually working the wood. Some are made by me. Some are bought. However, while turning a bowl the other day I got a little frustrated. I just could not get a clean finishing cut on the inside of a bowl I was turning. I tried the Oland tool at every possible way and direction I could think of. I had done it before, but it was a different type wood than I'd done it in and it just wasn't working out like I had planned. I sharpened the tool and tried again. I tried cleaning it up with very light passes with a scraper. Nothing I tried seemed to give me the results I would be happy with though.
> So I sat with a cup of coffee and thought about this for a moment. That's when the thought came to me that I didn't have this problem in the past with this same wood. I had turned it before. So what was different? The only thing that was different was that I was stubbornly insisting on using these new tools that I had made myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the answer to my problem was to get back to the basics that I had learned when I first started studying and learning to turn any bowls. All those tools, whether bought or made, are nice to have for those different circumstances. When it comes down to it though, there just is no substitute, in my opinion, for a good detail gouge and a skew chisel for getting clean cuts.
> If any of you are reading this and thinking of learning to turn, let me offer a bit of advice that I have learned, at least for me.
> There are all kinds of tools. There are oland tools, hook tools, hollowing tools of all shapes and sizes, carbide, and a host of other ways to hollow bowls. I even seen a guy hollow a bowl once using nothing but a diamond shaped parting tool. If you want good clean cuts though without burnishing or catches though, learn to sharpen and use a gouge.
> Next, on the outside of the bowl, or any spindle type work, if you can't get a clean cut with a sharp tool, even a gouge, a skew chisel will make quick work of it. For the longest time, I was scared to death of the skew. The skew, to me, was just a quick way to ruin anything I was trying to do. One day, I decided to just throw a piece of scrap on the lathe and not stop until I could use a skew, and boy am I glad I did. There are times that there is no better tool for the job than the skew. If you don't know how to use one, there is no other way to learn it besides practice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bowl I turned really just to test how the power sanding attachments I've been talking so much about worked on small bowls. I knew I wasn't going to be able to easily get the direction I wanted inside this bowl while power sanding. So I wanted to see how that was going to work out. I was worried it would leave radial lines much like on a pen that one has either skipped grits on or failed to sand the length of after sanding with the lathe running. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. With a little tilting back and forth with the drill, it did a great job on this little piece of sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt I was finally ready to turn this piece that I've been holding back on. I was wanting to build my confidence a bit before tackling this chunk of rosewood because I just knew I would cry like a baby if I messed it up.
> This was from a six inch square chunk of rosewood that a friend (Bearpie) gave me a while back when he visited my shop. I know there are many, many turners out there that could have done a better job than I with it, but I am quite proud of myself with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one did not turn out being what I originally intended it to be. It was a two inch thick piece of six inch square lacewood. I intended to turn a shallow bowl. Midway through though, with the size and shape, I remembered a wooden ash tray I had seen somewhere and remembered that I had thought how much I would love to have one. Well this presented a perfect opportunity for me to do just that. It was the right size. So I used my tailstock to hold a scrap piece against the top of the bowl. Then I turned it down to the same as the sides of the bowl and use a drill and forstner bit to drill holes with the point where the bowl and scrap block met. Then I finished turning it.
> .
> Well that is all I have to show today.
> Till next time, happy turning.


Thank you lew and doe.

Doe, it isn't risky as long as you make sure the cigarette is out completely. Actually I got the idea from a Chinese restaurant where I first seen a wooden ash tray. I did not like the design they had for sale though. It was small and deep. I like a large shallow ash tray do my big hands will fit down into it so I can easily snub out the fire.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*What I Like*

If you've been reading my blog posts, you know I fairly recently tried power sanding bowls on the lathe and liked it. Well, I've had several people suggest a non-powered method that seems to be popular. I checked into it and do believe that it will work just as well as the power sanding, but easier to deal with. I checked on one suggested system. You can see it if you like by clicking on this link. Besides being out of stock at the moment, I simply do not have the money to afford it at this time. I still wanted to try this type system though.
So I watched Captain Eddies video here and built his design. I think the one from Penn State will probably be better, but this one will get me started until I can afford to get it. 








The thing is really just a handle with holes drilled into it. Inside those holes is a magnet that is glued into the bottom to keep the sanding attachment from just falling out. While Captain Eddie sells a bushing set that probably works wonderfully for this tool, I did not have the money to buy that at the moment either. So I used quarter inch bronze bushings that I got at my local hardware store.








For the sanding attachment, I read an article here.
They are simple to make really. They are just a piece of three quarter inch plywood cut into a two inch diameter circle. The mandrel shaft is just a quarter inch carriage bolt with the head cut off. The threaded end is used to attach it to the plywood disk using nuts, washers, and a drop of CA glue to prevent the nut from moving once tightened down. The foam rubber and Velcro backing is attached using thick CA glue.








This photo shows the three different locations I can put the sanding attachments. By moving the attachment being used to a different hole I can sand straight out from the handle, at a ninety degree angle to it, or a forty five degree angle. 
If this works like I think it will, I think I will like the adjustable angle on the Penn State model better. I can make do with this though until I can afford that. I haven't used it yet on a bowl, but will be sure to report back on the results when I do.








Now, for the meaning of the title of this blog post. 
The recent pens I've been making have been made from some very interesting burls and such. While I enjoy using these type materials, it is not what I really enjoy the most. What I like is this, making blanks. I enjoy gluing up my own blanks instead of using solid pieces. While I can never match the beauty that comes from nature in the form of a beautiful burl blank, or some interesting spalting in just the right area of a blank, I just seem to get more satisfaction from gluing up blanks like these. It is fun to experiment and you never know for sure how they will turn out until you put the cutting tool to the wood on the lathe. 
You see the blanks in the photo. Now I'll go from the top down and show you how they turned out.
















This one is mulberry and bocote. This one was an attempt at making a chevron design. I was recently asked about putting a chevron on a pen. Until I went online to find out what a chevron even was, I was a little lost for words, and that is truly unusual for me. So after seeing what a chevron was, I started trying to get on in a design. I do not know if this qualifies or not. I will have to ask for opinions on that.
















With the same chevron styling in mind, I made this one from padauk, ziricote, and hedge apple. 
















This next one was supposed to be a zig zag down the length of the pen as I'd seen on some other chevron themed items on the internet. Remember what I said about you never know for sure how they'll turn out? I neglected to remember the curvation effect that turning a square blank round has on intersecting lines. I still like the way it turned out though. It is an interesting pen in my personal opinion.
It is made of mulberry and walnut.
















This next one is blood wood and mulberry. It is simply another one of my "why not" ideas. When I start playing with these wave designs, it almost always creates interesting patterns. Remember that interesting does not always mean it looks good or is pretty. Sometimes the ones I find ugly as homemade sin are also the most interesting. 
















Again, I just wanted to see how this idea would turn out, and there is only one way to find out. I cut two blanks, one wild cherry and one padauk, at a long angle and sandwiched a strip of mulberry in there. I do not like this pen, but it is interesting.
Since I did not like this last pen, I didn't bother turning the last blanks in the photo of glued up blanks. I only made that last one to use up the other halves of the padauk and wild cherry blanks that I had cut up to make the above pen. I sandwiched box elder in it. I put it away in my blank pile. One day I'll think of some other embellishment I wish to add to it to make it interesting. 
.
You may notice that sometimes I make pens that I find interesting, if ugly. I actually have a good reason for that. You see, from what I've learned, if a pen is interesting, I may find it ugly while someone else may think it is absolutely beautiful. Therefore, as long as it's interesting, I feel it is a good chance that someone, somewhere, will like it. Then I only hope they like it enough to buy it, because Lord knows I need to sells more of my pens if I am to keep turning them.
.
That's all for today. Until next time, happy turning.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *What I Like*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog posts, you know I fairly recently tried power sanding bowls on the lathe and liked it. Well, I've had several people suggest a non-powered method that seems to be popular. I checked into it and do believe that it will work just as well as the power sanding, but easier to deal with. I checked on one suggested system. You can see it if you like by clicking on this link. Besides being out of stock at the moment, I simply do not have the money to afford it at this time. I still wanted to try this type system though.
> So I watched Captain Eddies video here and built his design. I think the one from Penn State will probably be better, but this one will get me started until I can afford to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is really just a handle with holes drilled into it. Inside those holes is a magnet that is glued into the bottom to keep the sanding attachment from just falling out. While Captain Eddie sells a bushing set that probably works wonderfully for this tool, I did not have the money to buy that at the moment either. So I used quarter inch bronze bushings that I got at my local hardware store.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sanding attachment, I read an article here.
> They are simple to make really. They are just a piece of three quarter inch plywood cut into a two inch diameter circle. The mandrel shaft is just a quarter inch carriage bolt with the head cut off. The threaded end is used to attach it to the plywood disk using nuts, washers, and a drop of CA glue to prevent the nut from moving once tightened down. The foam rubber and Velcro backing is attached using thick CA glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the three different locations I can put the sanding attachments. By moving the attachment being used to a different hole I can sand straight out from the handle, at a ninety degree angle to it, or a forty five degree angle.
> If this works like I think it will, I think I will like the adjustable angle on the Penn State model better. I can make do with this though until I can afford that. I haven't used it yet on a bowl, but will be sure to report back on the results when I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, for the meaning of the title of this blog post.
> The recent pens I've been making have been made from some very interesting burls and such. While I enjoy using these type materials, it is not what I really enjoy the most. What I like is this, making blanks. I enjoy gluing up my own blanks instead of using solid pieces. While I can never match the beauty that comes from nature in the form of a beautiful burl blank, or some interesting spalting in just the right area of a blank, I just seem to get more satisfaction from gluing up blanks like these. It is fun to experiment and you never know for sure how they will turn out until you put the cutting tool to the wood on the lathe.
> You see the blanks in the photo. Now I'll go from the top down and show you how they turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is mulberry and bocote. This one was an attempt at making a chevron design. I was recently asked about putting a chevron on a pen. Until I went online to find out what a chevron even was, I was a little lost for words, and that is truly unusual for me. So after seeing what a chevron was, I started trying to get on in a design. I do not know if this qualifies or not. I will have to ask for opinions on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the same chevron styling in mind, I made this one from padauk, ziricote, and hedge apple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one was supposed to be a zig zag down the length of the pen as I'd seen on some other chevron themed items on the internet. Remember what I said about you never know for sure how they'll turn out? I neglected to remember the curvation effect that turning a square blank round has on intersecting lines. I still like the way it turned out though. It is an interesting pen in my personal opinion.
> It is made of mulberry and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one is blood wood and mulberry. It is simply another one of my "why not" ideas. When I start playing with these wave designs, it almost always creates interesting patterns. Remember that interesting does not always mean it looks good or is pretty. Sometimes the ones I find ugly as homemade sin are also the most interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I just wanted to see how this idea would turn out, and there is only one way to find out. I cut two blanks, one wild cherry and one padauk, at a long angle and sandwiched a strip of mulberry in there. I do not like this pen, but it is interesting.
> Since I did not like this last pen, I didn't bother turning the last blanks in the photo of glued up blanks. I only made that last one to use up the other halves of the padauk and wild cherry blanks that I had cut up to make the above pen. I sandwiched box elder in it. I put it away in my blank pile. One day I'll think of some other embellishment I wish to add to it to make it interesting.
> .
> You may notice that sometimes I make pens that I find interesting, if ugly. I actually have a good reason for that. You see, from what I've learned, if a pen is interesting, I may find it ugly while someone else may think it is absolutely beautiful. Therefore, as long as it's interesting, I feel it is a good chance that someone, somewhere, will like it. Then I only hope they like it enough to buy it, because Lord knows I need to sells more of my pens if I am to keep turning them.
> .
> That's all for today. Until next time, happy turning.


The first pen is my favorite of tonight's pens. But did you notice some of the amazing grain in the QS sycamore used in your boxes? Qs sycamore is just one of my favorites.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *What I Like*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog posts, you know I fairly recently tried power sanding bowls on the lathe and liked it. Well, I've had several people suggest a non-powered method that seems to be popular. I checked into it and do believe that it will work just as well as the power sanding, but easier to deal with. I checked on one suggested system. You can see it if you like by clicking on this link. Besides being out of stock at the moment, I simply do not have the money to afford it at this time. I still wanted to try this type system though.
> So I watched Captain Eddies video here and built his design. I think the one from Penn State will probably be better, but this one will get me started until I can afford to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is really just a handle with holes drilled into it. Inside those holes is a magnet that is glued into the bottom to keep the sanding attachment from just falling out. While Captain Eddie sells a bushing set that probably works wonderfully for this tool, I did not have the money to buy that at the moment either. So I used quarter inch bronze bushings that I got at my local hardware store.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sanding attachment, I read an article here.
> They are simple to make really. They are just a piece of three quarter inch plywood cut into a two inch diameter circle. The mandrel shaft is just a quarter inch carriage bolt with the head cut off. The threaded end is used to attach it to the plywood disk using nuts, washers, and a drop of CA glue to prevent the nut from moving once tightened down. The foam rubber and Velcro backing is attached using thick CA glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the three different locations I can put the sanding attachments. By moving the attachment being used to a different hole I can sand straight out from the handle, at a ninety degree angle to it, or a forty five degree angle.
> If this works like I think it will, I think I will like the adjustable angle on the Penn State model better. I can make do with this though until I can afford that. I haven't used it yet on a bowl, but will be sure to report back on the results when I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, for the meaning of the title of this blog post.
> The recent pens I've been making have been made from some very interesting burls and such. While I enjoy using these type materials, it is not what I really enjoy the most. What I like is this, making blanks. I enjoy gluing up my own blanks instead of using solid pieces. While I can never match the beauty that comes from nature in the form of a beautiful burl blank, or some interesting spalting in just the right area of a blank, I just seem to get more satisfaction from gluing up blanks like these. It is fun to experiment and you never know for sure how they will turn out until you put the cutting tool to the wood on the lathe.
> You see the blanks in the photo. Now I'll go from the top down and show you how they turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is mulberry and bocote. This one was an attempt at making a chevron design. I was recently asked about putting a chevron on a pen. Until I went online to find out what a chevron even was, I was a little lost for words, and that is truly unusual for me. So after seeing what a chevron was, I started trying to get on in a design. I do not know if this qualifies or not. I will have to ask for opinions on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the same chevron styling in mind, I made this one from padauk, ziricote, and hedge apple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one was supposed to be a zig zag down the length of the pen as I'd seen on some other chevron themed items on the internet. Remember what I said about you never know for sure how they'll turn out? I neglected to remember the curvation effect that turning a square blank round has on intersecting lines. I still like the way it turned out though. It is an interesting pen in my personal opinion.
> It is made of mulberry and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one is blood wood and mulberry. It is simply another one of my "why not" ideas. When I start playing with these wave designs, it almost always creates interesting patterns. Remember that interesting does not always mean it looks good or is pretty. Sometimes the ones I find ugly as homemade sin are also the most interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I just wanted to see how this idea would turn out, and there is only one way to find out. I cut two blanks, one wild cherry and one padauk, at a long angle and sandwiched a strip of mulberry in there. I do not like this pen, but it is interesting.
> Since I did not like this last pen, I didn't bother turning the last blanks in the photo of glued up blanks. I only made that last one to use up the other halves of the padauk and wild cherry blanks that I had cut up to make the above pen. I sandwiched box elder in it. I put it away in my blank pile. One day I'll think of some other embellishment I wish to add to it to make it interesting.
> .
> You may notice that sometimes I make pens that I find interesting, if ugly. I actually have a good reason for that. You see, from what I've learned, if a pen is interesting, I may find it ugly while someone else may think it is absolutely beautiful. Therefore, as long as it's interesting, I feel it is a good chance that someone, somewhere, will like it. Then I only hope they like it enough to buy it, because Lord knows I need to sells more of my pens if I am to keep turning them.
> .
> That's all for today. Until next time, happy turning.


I too find that Pen #1 is "What I like"....

Looking forward to reading your "review", of your "sanding stick"....

Keep experimenting, William. Your experiments are always "interesting" and usually quite Purdy!!!


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *What I Like*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog posts, you know I fairly recently tried power sanding bowls on the lathe and liked it. Well, I've had several people suggest a non-powered method that seems to be popular. I checked into it and do believe that it will work just as well as the power sanding, but easier to deal with. I checked on one suggested system. You can see it if you like by clicking on this link. Besides being out of stock at the moment, I simply do not have the money to afford it at this time. I still wanted to try this type system though.
> So I watched Captain Eddies video here and built his design. I think the one from Penn State will probably be better, but this one will get me started until I can afford to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is really just a handle with holes drilled into it. Inside those holes is a magnet that is glued into the bottom to keep the sanding attachment from just falling out. While Captain Eddie sells a bushing set that probably works wonderfully for this tool, I did not have the money to buy that at the moment either. So I used quarter inch bronze bushings that I got at my local hardware store.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sanding attachment, I read an article here.
> They are simple to make really. They are just a piece of three quarter inch plywood cut into a two inch diameter circle. The mandrel shaft is just a quarter inch carriage bolt with the head cut off. The threaded end is used to attach it to the plywood disk using nuts, washers, and a drop of CA glue to prevent the nut from moving once tightened down. The foam rubber and Velcro backing is attached using thick CA glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the three different locations I can put the sanding attachments. By moving the attachment being used to a different hole I can sand straight out from the handle, at a ninety degree angle to it, or a forty five degree angle.
> If this works like I think it will, I think I will like the adjustable angle on the Penn State model better. I can make do with this though until I can afford that. I haven't used it yet on a bowl, but will be sure to report back on the results when I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, for the meaning of the title of this blog post.
> The recent pens I've been making have been made from some very interesting burls and such. While I enjoy using these type materials, it is not what I really enjoy the most. What I like is this, making blanks. I enjoy gluing up my own blanks instead of using solid pieces. While I can never match the beauty that comes from nature in the form of a beautiful burl blank, or some interesting spalting in just the right area of a blank, I just seem to get more satisfaction from gluing up blanks like these. It is fun to experiment and you never know for sure how they will turn out until you put the cutting tool to the wood on the lathe.
> You see the blanks in the photo. Now I'll go from the top down and show you how they turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is mulberry and bocote. This one was an attempt at making a chevron design. I was recently asked about putting a chevron on a pen. Until I went online to find out what a chevron even was, I was a little lost for words, and that is truly unusual for me. So after seeing what a chevron was, I started trying to get on in a design. I do not know if this qualifies or not. I will have to ask for opinions on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the same chevron styling in mind, I made this one from padauk, ziricote, and hedge apple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one was supposed to be a zig zag down the length of the pen as I'd seen on some other chevron themed items on the internet. Remember what I said about you never know for sure how they'll turn out? I neglected to remember the curvation effect that turning a square blank round has on intersecting lines. I still like the way it turned out though. It is an interesting pen in my personal opinion.
> It is made of mulberry and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one is blood wood and mulberry. It is simply another one of my "why not" ideas. When I start playing with these wave designs, it almost always creates interesting patterns. Remember that interesting does not always mean it looks good or is pretty. Sometimes the ones I find ugly as homemade sin are also the most interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I just wanted to see how this idea would turn out, and there is only one way to find out. I cut two blanks, one wild cherry and one padauk, at a long angle and sandwiched a strip of mulberry in there. I do not like this pen, but it is interesting.
> Since I did not like this last pen, I didn't bother turning the last blanks in the photo of glued up blanks. I only made that last one to use up the other halves of the padauk and wild cherry blanks that I had cut up to make the above pen. I sandwiched box elder in it. I put it away in my blank pile. One day I'll think of some other embellishment I wish to add to it to make it interesting.
> .
> You may notice that sometimes I make pens that I find interesting, if ugly. I actually have a good reason for that. You see, from what I've learned, if a pen is interesting, I may find it ugly while someone else may think it is absolutely beautiful. Therefore, as long as it's interesting, I feel it is a good chance that someone, somewhere, will like it. Then I only hope they like it enough to buy it, because Lord knows I need to sells more of my pens if I am to keep turning them.
> .
> That's all for today. Until next time, happy turning.


Nice pens, William!

About your "Sanding Stick", I've been collecting stuff to make one myself. I've read where the magnet is supposed to be a sphere (ball) magnet. Is that what you used? If so, where did you find one?

Thanks.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *What I Like*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog posts, you know I fairly recently tried power sanding bowls on the lathe and liked it. Well, I've had several people suggest a non-powered method that seems to be popular. I checked into it and do believe that it will work just as well as the power sanding, but easier to deal with. I checked on one suggested system. You can see it if you like by clicking on this link. Besides being out of stock at the moment, I simply do not have the money to afford it at this time. I still wanted to try this type system though.
> So I watched Captain Eddies video here and built his design. I think the one from Penn State will probably be better, but this one will get me started until I can afford to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is really just a handle with holes drilled into it. Inside those holes is a magnet that is glued into the bottom to keep the sanding attachment from just falling out. While Captain Eddie sells a bushing set that probably works wonderfully for this tool, I did not have the money to buy that at the moment either. So I used quarter inch bronze bushings that I got at my local hardware store.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sanding attachment, I read an article here.
> They are simple to make really. They are just a piece of three quarter inch plywood cut into a two inch diameter circle. The mandrel shaft is just a quarter inch carriage bolt with the head cut off. The threaded end is used to attach it to the plywood disk using nuts, washers, and a drop of CA glue to prevent the nut from moving once tightened down. The foam rubber and Velcro backing is attached using thick CA glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the three different locations I can put the sanding attachments. By moving the attachment being used to a different hole I can sand straight out from the handle, at a ninety degree angle to it, or a forty five degree angle.
> If this works like I think it will, I think I will like the adjustable angle on the Penn State model better. I can make do with this though until I can afford that. I haven't used it yet on a bowl, but will be sure to report back on the results when I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, for the meaning of the title of this blog post.
> The recent pens I've been making have been made from some very interesting burls and such. While I enjoy using these type materials, it is not what I really enjoy the most. What I like is this, making blanks. I enjoy gluing up my own blanks instead of using solid pieces. While I can never match the beauty that comes from nature in the form of a beautiful burl blank, or some interesting spalting in just the right area of a blank, I just seem to get more satisfaction from gluing up blanks like these. It is fun to experiment and you never know for sure how they will turn out until you put the cutting tool to the wood on the lathe.
> You see the blanks in the photo. Now I'll go from the top down and show you how they turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is mulberry and bocote. This one was an attempt at making a chevron design. I was recently asked about putting a chevron on a pen. Until I went online to find out what a chevron even was, I was a little lost for words, and that is truly unusual for me. So after seeing what a chevron was, I started trying to get on in a design. I do not know if this qualifies or not. I will have to ask for opinions on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the same chevron styling in mind, I made this one from padauk, ziricote, and hedge apple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one was supposed to be a zig zag down the length of the pen as I'd seen on some other chevron themed items on the internet. Remember what I said about you never know for sure how they'll turn out? I neglected to remember the curvation effect that turning a square blank round has on intersecting lines. I still like the way it turned out though. It is an interesting pen in my personal opinion.
> It is made of mulberry and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one is blood wood and mulberry. It is simply another one of my "why not" ideas. When I start playing with these wave designs, it almost always creates interesting patterns. Remember that interesting does not always mean it looks good or is pretty. Sometimes the ones I find ugly as homemade sin are also the most interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I just wanted to see how this idea would turn out, and there is only one way to find out. I cut two blanks, one wild cherry and one padauk, at a long angle and sandwiched a strip of mulberry in there. I do not like this pen, but it is interesting.
> Since I did not like this last pen, I didn't bother turning the last blanks in the photo of glued up blanks. I only made that last one to use up the other halves of the padauk and wild cherry blanks that I had cut up to make the above pen. I sandwiched box elder in it. I put it away in my blank pile. One day I'll think of some other embellishment I wish to add to it to make it interesting.
> .
> You may notice that sometimes I make pens that I find interesting, if ugly. I actually have a good reason for that. You see, from what I've learned, if a pen is interesting, I may find it ugly while someone else may think it is absolutely beautiful. Therefore, as long as it's interesting, I feel it is a good chance that someone, somewhere, will like it. Then I only hope they like it enough to buy it, because Lord knows I need to sells more of my pens if I am to keep turning them.
> .
> That's all for today. Until next time, happy turning.


Andy, I like sycamore myself. 
When I first got that batch of wood, I thought it was just crap wood. That was until I cut into it one day and realized that under the ugly, unfinished, rough looking wood was some beautiful grain. It is also a very easy wood to work with. 
And that is one of the reasons I made some boxes from it.

Randy, I'll let ya'll know how it works as soon as I get a chance to use it.

Lew, I used a small disk shaped rare earth magnet. I too had read about the sphere magnet but decided that I had nothing to lose by trying this. It seems to spin just fine on the disk magnet. It may be a different story once I put it in action. All I can do is wait and see. I will try to turn a small bowl within the next few days just so I can try it out and let you know. 
If the disk magnet does work alright, you can pick them up on the hardware isle at Home Depot.

Thank you all for your comments.


----------



## wormil

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *What I Like*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog posts, you know I fairly recently tried power sanding bowls on the lathe and liked it. Well, I've had several people suggest a non-powered method that seems to be popular. I checked into it and do believe that it will work just as well as the power sanding, but easier to deal with. I checked on one suggested system. You can see it if you like by clicking on this link. Besides being out of stock at the moment, I simply do not have the money to afford it at this time. I still wanted to try this type system though.
> So I watched Captain Eddies video here and built his design. I think the one from Penn State will probably be better, but this one will get me started until I can afford to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is really just a handle with holes drilled into it. Inside those holes is a magnet that is glued into the bottom to keep the sanding attachment from just falling out. While Captain Eddie sells a bushing set that probably works wonderfully for this tool, I did not have the money to buy that at the moment either. So I used quarter inch bronze bushings that I got at my local hardware store.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sanding attachment, I read an article here.
> They are simple to make really. They are just a piece of three quarter inch plywood cut into a two inch diameter circle. The mandrel shaft is just a quarter inch carriage bolt with the head cut off. The threaded end is used to attach it to the plywood disk using nuts, washers, and a drop of CA glue to prevent the nut from moving once tightened down. The foam rubber and Velcro backing is attached using thick CA glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the three different locations I can put the sanding attachments. By moving the attachment being used to a different hole I can sand straight out from the handle, at a ninety degree angle to it, or a forty five degree angle.
> If this works like I think it will, I think I will like the adjustable angle on the Penn State model better. I can make do with this though until I can afford that. I haven't used it yet on a bowl, but will be sure to report back on the results when I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, for the meaning of the title of this blog post.
> The recent pens I've been making have been made from some very interesting burls and such. While I enjoy using these type materials, it is not what I really enjoy the most. What I like is this, making blanks. I enjoy gluing up my own blanks instead of using solid pieces. While I can never match the beauty that comes from nature in the form of a beautiful burl blank, or some interesting spalting in just the right area of a blank, I just seem to get more satisfaction from gluing up blanks like these. It is fun to experiment and you never know for sure how they will turn out until you put the cutting tool to the wood on the lathe.
> You see the blanks in the photo. Now I'll go from the top down and show you how they turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is mulberry and bocote. This one was an attempt at making a chevron design. I was recently asked about putting a chevron on a pen. Until I went online to find out what a chevron even was, I was a little lost for words, and that is truly unusual for me. So after seeing what a chevron was, I started trying to get on in a design. I do not know if this qualifies or not. I will have to ask for opinions on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the same chevron styling in mind, I made this one from padauk, ziricote, and hedge apple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one was supposed to be a zig zag down the length of the pen as I'd seen on some other chevron themed items on the internet. Remember what I said about you never know for sure how they'll turn out? I neglected to remember the curvation effect that turning a square blank round has on intersecting lines. I still like the way it turned out though. It is an interesting pen in my personal opinion.
> It is made of mulberry and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one is blood wood and mulberry. It is simply another one of my "why not" ideas. When I start playing with these wave designs, it almost always creates interesting patterns. Remember that interesting does not always mean it looks good or is pretty. Sometimes the ones I find ugly as homemade sin are also the most interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I just wanted to see how this idea would turn out, and there is only one way to find out. I cut two blanks, one wild cherry and one padauk, at a long angle and sandwiched a strip of mulberry in there. I do not like this pen, but it is interesting.
> Since I did not like this last pen, I didn't bother turning the last blanks in the photo of glued up blanks. I only made that last one to use up the other halves of the padauk and wild cherry blanks that I had cut up to make the above pen. I sandwiched box elder in it. I put it away in my blank pile. One day I'll think of some other embellishment I wish to add to it to make it interesting.
> .
> You may notice that sometimes I make pens that I find interesting, if ugly. I actually have a good reason for that. You see, from what I've learned, if a pen is interesting, I may find it ugly while someone else may think it is absolutely beautiful. Therefore, as long as it's interesting, I feel it is a good chance that someone, somewhere, will like it. Then I only hope they like it enough to buy it, because Lord knows I need to sells more of my pens if I am to keep turning them.
> .
> That's all for today. Until next time, happy turning.


I've been wanting to make one of those sanders, maybe this weekend.

Ironically I hate making blanks so you make them and I'll turn them, haha.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *What I Like*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog posts, you know I fairly recently tried power sanding bowls on the lathe and liked it. Well, I've had several people suggest a non-powered method that seems to be popular. I checked into it and do believe that it will work just as well as the power sanding, but easier to deal with. I checked on one suggested system. You can see it if you like by clicking on this link. Besides being out of stock at the moment, I simply do not have the money to afford it at this time. I still wanted to try this type system though.
> So I watched Captain Eddies video here and built his design. I think the one from Penn State will probably be better, but this one will get me started until I can afford to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is really just a handle with holes drilled into it. Inside those holes is a magnet that is glued into the bottom to keep the sanding attachment from just falling out. While Captain Eddie sells a bushing set that probably works wonderfully for this tool, I did not have the money to buy that at the moment either. So I used quarter inch bronze bushings that I got at my local hardware store.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sanding attachment, I read an article here.
> They are simple to make really. They are just a piece of three quarter inch plywood cut into a two inch diameter circle. The mandrel shaft is just a quarter inch carriage bolt with the head cut off. The threaded end is used to attach it to the plywood disk using nuts, washers, and a drop of CA glue to prevent the nut from moving once tightened down. The foam rubber and Velcro backing is attached using thick CA glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the three different locations I can put the sanding attachments. By moving the attachment being used to a different hole I can sand straight out from the handle, at a ninety degree angle to it, or a forty five degree angle.
> If this works like I think it will, I think I will like the adjustable angle on the Penn State model better. I can make do with this though until I can afford that. I haven't used it yet on a bowl, but will be sure to report back on the results when I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, for the meaning of the title of this blog post.
> The recent pens I've been making have been made from some very interesting burls and such. While I enjoy using these type materials, it is not what I really enjoy the most. What I like is this, making blanks. I enjoy gluing up my own blanks instead of using solid pieces. While I can never match the beauty that comes from nature in the form of a beautiful burl blank, or some interesting spalting in just the right area of a blank, I just seem to get more satisfaction from gluing up blanks like these. It is fun to experiment and you never know for sure how they will turn out until you put the cutting tool to the wood on the lathe.
> You see the blanks in the photo. Now I'll go from the top down and show you how they turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is mulberry and bocote. This one was an attempt at making a chevron design. I was recently asked about putting a chevron on a pen. Until I went online to find out what a chevron even was, I was a little lost for words, and that is truly unusual for me. So after seeing what a chevron was, I started trying to get on in a design. I do not know if this qualifies or not. I will have to ask for opinions on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the same chevron styling in mind, I made this one from padauk, ziricote, and hedge apple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one was supposed to be a zig zag down the length of the pen as I'd seen on some other chevron themed items on the internet. Remember what I said about you never know for sure how they'll turn out? I neglected to remember the curvation effect that turning a square blank round has on intersecting lines. I still like the way it turned out though. It is an interesting pen in my personal opinion.
> It is made of mulberry and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one is blood wood and mulberry. It is simply another one of my "why not" ideas. When I start playing with these wave designs, it almost always creates interesting patterns. Remember that interesting does not always mean it looks good or is pretty. Sometimes the ones I find ugly as homemade sin are also the most interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I just wanted to see how this idea would turn out, and there is only one way to find out. I cut two blanks, one wild cherry and one padauk, at a long angle and sandwiched a strip of mulberry in there. I do not like this pen, but it is interesting.
> Since I did not like this last pen, I didn't bother turning the last blanks in the photo of glued up blanks. I only made that last one to use up the other halves of the padauk and wild cherry blanks that I had cut up to make the above pen. I sandwiched box elder in it. I put it away in my blank pile. One day I'll think of some other embellishment I wish to add to it to make it interesting.
> .
> You may notice that sometimes I make pens that I find interesting, if ugly. I actually have a good reason for that. You see, from what I've learned, if a pen is interesting, I may find it ugly while someone else may think it is absolutely beautiful. Therefore, as long as it's interesting, I feel it is a good chance that someone, somewhere, will like it. Then I only hope they like it enough to buy it, because Lord knows I need to sells more of my pens if I am to keep turning them.
> .
> That's all for today. Until next time, happy turning.


The first chevron one is really nice; I like the mulberry and bocote together. My favorite is the blood wood and mulberry; I love the swoop-de-doos.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *What I Like*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog posts, you know I fairly recently tried power sanding bowls on the lathe and liked it. Well, I've had several people suggest a non-powered method that seems to be popular. I checked into it and do believe that it will work just as well as the power sanding, but easier to deal with. I checked on one suggested system. You can see it if you like by clicking on this link. Besides being out of stock at the moment, I simply do not have the money to afford it at this time. I still wanted to try this type system though.
> So I watched Captain Eddies video here and built his design. I think the one from Penn State will probably be better, but this one will get me started until I can afford to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is really just a handle with holes drilled into it. Inside those holes is a magnet that is glued into the bottom to keep the sanding attachment from just falling out. While Captain Eddie sells a bushing set that probably works wonderfully for this tool, I did not have the money to buy that at the moment either. So I used quarter inch bronze bushings that I got at my local hardware store.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sanding attachment, I read an article here.
> They are simple to make really. They are just a piece of three quarter inch plywood cut into a two inch diameter circle. The mandrel shaft is just a quarter inch carriage bolt with the head cut off. The threaded end is used to attach it to the plywood disk using nuts, washers, and a drop of CA glue to prevent the nut from moving once tightened down. The foam rubber and Velcro backing is attached using thick CA glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the three different locations I can put the sanding attachments. By moving the attachment being used to a different hole I can sand straight out from the handle, at a ninety degree angle to it, or a forty five degree angle.
> If this works like I think it will, I think I will like the adjustable angle on the Penn State model better. I can make do with this though until I can afford that. I haven't used it yet on a bowl, but will be sure to report back on the results when I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, for the meaning of the title of this blog post.
> The recent pens I've been making have been made from some very interesting burls and such. While I enjoy using these type materials, it is not what I really enjoy the most. What I like is this, making blanks. I enjoy gluing up my own blanks instead of using solid pieces. While I can never match the beauty that comes from nature in the form of a beautiful burl blank, or some interesting spalting in just the right area of a blank, I just seem to get more satisfaction from gluing up blanks like these. It is fun to experiment and you never know for sure how they will turn out until you put the cutting tool to the wood on the lathe.
> You see the blanks in the photo. Now I'll go from the top down and show you how they turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is mulberry and bocote. This one was an attempt at making a chevron design. I was recently asked about putting a chevron on a pen. Until I went online to find out what a chevron even was, I was a little lost for words, and that is truly unusual for me. So after seeing what a chevron was, I started trying to get on in a design. I do not know if this qualifies or not. I will have to ask for opinions on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the same chevron styling in mind, I made this one from padauk, ziricote, and hedge apple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one was supposed to be a zig zag down the length of the pen as I'd seen on some other chevron themed items on the internet. Remember what I said about you never know for sure how they'll turn out? I neglected to remember the curvation effect that turning a square blank round has on intersecting lines. I still like the way it turned out though. It is an interesting pen in my personal opinion.
> It is made of mulberry and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one is blood wood and mulberry. It is simply another one of my "why not" ideas. When I start playing with these wave designs, it almost always creates interesting patterns. Remember that interesting does not always mean it looks good or is pretty. Sometimes the ones I find ugly as homemade sin are also the most interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I just wanted to see how this idea would turn out, and there is only one way to find out. I cut two blanks, one wild cherry and one padauk, at a long angle and sandwiched a strip of mulberry in there. I do not like this pen, but it is interesting.
> Since I did not like this last pen, I didn't bother turning the last blanks in the photo of glued up blanks. I only made that last one to use up the other halves of the padauk and wild cherry blanks that I had cut up to make the above pen. I sandwiched box elder in it. I put it away in my blank pile. One day I'll think of some other embellishment I wish to add to it to make it interesting.
> .
> You may notice that sometimes I make pens that I find interesting, if ugly. I actually have a good reason for that. You see, from what I've learned, if a pen is interesting, I may find it ugly while someone else may think it is absolutely beautiful. Therefore, as long as it's interesting, I feel it is a good chance that someone, somewhere, will like it. Then I only hope they like it enough to buy it, because Lord knows I need to sells more of my pens if I am to keep turning them.
> .
> That's all for today. Until next time, happy turning.


Rick, if you don't have the sphere magnet that lew and I mentioned, I would wait to see how this one works with a disk magnet. I think it'll work fine, but we'll have to see. 
As for the blanks, you joke, but if you really like the blanks I glue up, I might be willing to trade random blank glue ups for some nice pen kits.

Do' I think you just proved my point about interesting pens looking good to someone. I don't like the blood wood and mulberry one. It turned out, again in my own opinion, uneven and very much too busy in some areas. I guess though that it's a good think that people like different things. It is also what make the world as interesting I think.

Thank you both.


----------



## wormil

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *What I Like*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog posts, you know I fairly recently tried power sanding bowls on the lathe and liked it. Well, I've had several people suggest a non-powered method that seems to be popular. I checked into it and do believe that it will work just as well as the power sanding, but easier to deal with. I checked on one suggested system. You can see it if you like by clicking on this link. Besides being out of stock at the moment, I simply do not have the money to afford it at this time. I still wanted to try this type system though.
> So I watched Captain Eddies video here and built his design. I think the one from Penn State will probably be better, but this one will get me started until I can afford to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is really just a handle with holes drilled into it. Inside those holes is a magnet that is glued into the bottom to keep the sanding attachment from just falling out. While Captain Eddie sells a bushing set that probably works wonderfully for this tool, I did not have the money to buy that at the moment either. So I used quarter inch bronze bushings that I got at my local hardware store.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sanding attachment, I read an article here.
> They are simple to make really. They are just a piece of three quarter inch plywood cut into a two inch diameter circle. The mandrel shaft is just a quarter inch carriage bolt with the head cut off. The threaded end is used to attach it to the plywood disk using nuts, washers, and a drop of CA glue to prevent the nut from moving once tightened down. The foam rubber and Velcro backing is attached using thick CA glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the three different locations I can put the sanding attachments. By moving the attachment being used to a different hole I can sand straight out from the handle, at a ninety degree angle to it, or a forty five degree angle.
> If this works like I think it will, I think I will like the adjustable angle on the Penn State model better. I can make do with this though until I can afford that. I haven't used it yet on a bowl, but will be sure to report back on the results when I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, for the meaning of the title of this blog post.
> The recent pens I've been making have been made from some very interesting burls and such. While I enjoy using these type materials, it is not what I really enjoy the most. What I like is this, making blanks. I enjoy gluing up my own blanks instead of using solid pieces. While I can never match the beauty that comes from nature in the form of a beautiful burl blank, or some interesting spalting in just the right area of a blank, I just seem to get more satisfaction from gluing up blanks like these. It is fun to experiment and you never know for sure how they will turn out until you put the cutting tool to the wood on the lathe.
> You see the blanks in the photo. Now I'll go from the top down and show you how they turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is mulberry and bocote. This one was an attempt at making a chevron design. I was recently asked about putting a chevron on a pen. Until I went online to find out what a chevron even was, I was a little lost for words, and that is truly unusual for me. So after seeing what a chevron was, I started trying to get on in a design. I do not know if this qualifies or not. I will have to ask for opinions on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the same chevron styling in mind, I made this one from padauk, ziricote, and hedge apple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one was supposed to be a zig zag down the length of the pen as I'd seen on some other chevron themed items on the internet. Remember what I said about you never know for sure how they'll turn out? I neglected to remember the curvation effect that turning a square blank round has on intersecting lines. I still like the way it turned out though. It is an interesting pen in my personal opinion.
> It is made of mulberry and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one is blood wood and mulberry. It is simply another one of my "why not" ideas. When I start playing with these wave designs, it almost always creates interesting patterns. Remember that interesting does not always mean it looks good or is pretty. Sometimes the ones I find ugly as homemade sin are also the most interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I just wanted to see how this idea would turn out, and there is only one way to find out. I cut two blanks, one wild cherry and one padauk, at a long angle and sandwiched a strip of mulberry in there. I do not like this pen, but it is interesting.
> Since I did not like this last pen, I didn't bother turning the last blanks in the photo of glued up blanks. I only made that last one to use up the other halves of the padauk and wild cherry blanks that I had cut up to make the above pen. I sandwiched box elder in it. I put it away in my blank pile. One day I'll think of some other embellishment I wish to add to it to make it interesting.
> .
> You may notice that sometimes I make pens that I find interesting, if ugly. I actually have a good reason for that. You see, from what I've learned, if a pen is interesting, I may find it ugly while someone else may think it is absolutely beautiful. Therefore, as long as it's interesting, I feel it is a good chance that someone, somewhere, will like it. Then I only hope they like it enough to buy it, because Lord knows I need to sells more of my pens if I am to keep turning them.
> .
> That's all for today. Until next time, happy turning.


I would take you up on that William but I don't turn pens and ergo have no pen kits to trade. Really I was joking and thinking of bigger blanks anyway.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *What I Like*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog posts, you know I fairly recently tried power sanding bowls on the lathe and liked it. Well, I've had several people suggest a non-powered method that seems to be popular. I checked into it and do believe that it will work just as well as the power sanding, but easier to deal with. I checked on one suggested system. You can see it if you like by clicking on this link. Besides being out of stock at the moment, I simply do not have the money to afford it at this time. I still wanted to try this type system though.
> So I watched Captain Eddies video here and built his design. I think the one from Penn State will probably be better, but this one will get me started until I can afford to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is really just a handle with holes drilled into it. Inside those holes is a magnet that is glued into the bottom to keep the sanding attachment from just falling out. While Captain Eddie sells a bushing set that probably works wonderfully for this tool, I did not have the money to buy that at the moment either. So I used quarter inch bronze bushings that I got at my local hardware store.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sanding attachment, I read an article here.
> They are simple to make really. They are just a piece of three quarter inch plywood cut into a two inch diameter circle. The mandrel shaft is just a quarter inch carriage bolt with the head cut off. The threaded end is used to attach it to the plywood disk using nuts, washers, and a drop of CA glue to prevent the nut from moving once tightened down. The foam rubber and Velcro backing is attached using thick CA glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the three different locations I can put the sanding attachments. By moving the attachment being used to a different hole I can sand straight out from the handle, at a ninety degree angle to it, or a forty five degree angle.
> If this works like I think it will, I think I will like the adjustable angle on the Penn State model better. I can make do with this though until I can afford that. I haven't used it yet on a bowl, but will be sure to report back on the results when I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, for the meaning of the title of this blog post.
> The recent pens I've been making have been made from some very interesting burls and such. While I enjoy using these type materials, it is not what I really enjoy the most. What I like is this, making blanks. I enjoy gluing up my own blanks instead of using solid pieces. While I can never match the beauty that comes from nature in the form of a beautiful burl blank, or some interesting spalting in just the right area of a blank, I just seem to get more satisfaction from gluing up blanks like these. It is fun to experiment and you never know for sure how they will turn out until you put the cutting tool to the wood on the lathe.
> You see the blanks in the photo. Now I'll go from the top down and show you how they turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is mulberry and bocote. This one was an attempt at making a chevron design. I was recently asked about putting a chevron on a pen. Until I went online to find out what a chevron even was, I was a little lost for words, and that is truly unusual for me. So after seeing what a chevron was, I started trying to get on in a design. I do not know if this qualifies or not. I will have to ask for opinions on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the same chevron styling in mind, I made this one from padauk, ziricote, and hedge apple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one was supposed to be a zig zag down the length of the pen as I'd seen on some other chevron themed items on the internet. Remember what I said about you never know for sure how they'll turn out? I neglected to remember the curvation effect that turning a square blank round has on intersecting lines. I still like the way it turned out though. It is an interesting pen in my personal opinion.
> It is made of mulberry and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one is blood wood and mulberry. It is simply another one of my "why not" ideas. When I start playing with these wave designs, it almost always creates interesting patterns. Remember that interesting does not always mean it looks good or is pretty. Sometimes the ones I find ugly as homemade sin are also the most interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I just wanted to see how this idea would turn out, and there is only one way to find out. I cut two blanks, one wild cherry and one padauk, at a long angle and sandwiched a strip of mulberry in there. I do not like this pen, but it is interesting.
> Since I did not like this last pen, I didn't bother turning the last blanks in the photo of glued up blanks. I only made that last one to use up the other halves of the padauk and wild cherry blanks that I had cut up to make the above pen. I sandwiched box elder in it. I put it away in my blank pile. One day I'll think of some other embellishment I wish to add to it to make it interesting.
> .
> You may notice that sometimes I make pens that I find interesting, if ugly. I actually have a good reason for that. You see, from what I've learned, if a pen is interesting, I may find it ugly while someone else may think it is absolutely beautiful. Therefore, as long as it's interesting, I feel it is a good chance that someone, somewhere, will like it. Then I only hope they like it enough to buy it, because Lord knows I need to sells more of my pens if I am to keep turning them.
> .
> That's all for today. Until next time, happy turning.


It was worth a shot rick. 
Actually, it has been suggested to me to sell blanks I make to other pen turners. 
However, since I know a lot of turners are as short on cash a myself, 
And I am always short on nice kits,
I have thought of doing some trading with interested pen turners.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *What I Like*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog posts, you know I fairly recently tried power sanding bowls on the lathe and liked it. Well, I've had several people suggest a non-powered method that seems to be popular. I checked into it and do believe that it will work just as well as the power sanding, but easier to deal with. I checked on one suggested system. You can see it if you like by clicking on this link. Besides being out of stock at the moment, I simply do not have the money to afford it at this time. I still wanted to try this type system though.
> So I watched Captain Eddies video here and built his design. I think the one from Penn State will probably be better, but this one will get me started until I can afford to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is really just a handle with holes drilled into it. Inside those holes is a magnet that is glued into the bottom to keep the sanding attachment from just falling out. While Captain Eddie sells a bushing set that probably works wonderfully for this tool, I did not have the money to buy that at the moment either. So I used quarter inch bronze bushings that I got at my local hardware store.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sanding attachment, I read an article here.
> They are simple to make really. They are just a piece of three quarter inch plywood cut into a two inch diameter circle. The mandrel shaft is just a quarter inch carriage bolt with the head cut off. The threaded end is used to attach it to the plywood disk using nuts, washers, and a drop of CA glue to prevent the nut from moving once tightened down. The foam rubber and Velcro backing is attached using thick CA glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the three different locations I can put the sanding attachments. By moving the attachment being used to a different hole I can sand straight out from the handle, at a ninety degree angle to it, or a forty five degree angle.
> If this works like I think it will, I think I will like the adjustable angle on the Penn State model better. I can make do with this though until I can afford that. I haven't used it yet on a bowl, but will be sure to report back on the results when I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, for the meaning of the title of this blog post.
> The recent pens I've been making have been made from some very interesting burls and such. While I enjoy using these type materials, it is not what I really enjoy the most. What I like is this, making blanks. I enjoy gluing up my own blanks instead of using solid pieces. While I can never match the beauty that comes from nature in the form of a beautiful burl blank, or some interesting spalting in just the right area of a blank, I just seem to get more satisfaction from gluing up blanks like these. It is fun to experiment and you never know for sure how they will turn out until you put the cutting tool to the wood on the lathe.
> You see the blanks in the photo. Now I'll go from the top down and show you how they turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is mulberry and bocote. This one was an attempt at making a chevron design. I was recently asked about putting a chevron on a pen. Until I went online to find out what a chevron even was, I was a little lost for words, and that is truly unusual for me. So after seeing what a chevron was, I started trying to get on in a design. I do not know if this qualifies or not. I will have to ask for opinions on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the same chevron styling in mind, I made this one from padauk, ziricote, and hedge apple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one was supposed to be a zig zag down the length of the pen as I'd seen on some other chevron themed items on the internet. Remember what I said about you never know for sure how they'll turn out? I neglected to remember the curvation effect that turning a square blank round has on intersecting lines. I still like the way it turned out though. It is an interesting pen in my personal opinion.
> It is made of mulberry and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one is blood wood and mulberry. It is simply another one of my "why not" ideas. When I start playing with these wave designs, it almost always creates interesting patterns. Remember that interesting does not always mean it looks good or is pretty. Sometimes the ones I find ugly as homemade sin are also the most interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I just wanted to see how this idea would turn out, and there is only one way to find out. I cut two blanks, one wild cherry and one padauk, at a long angle and sandwiched a strip of mulberry in there. I do not like this pen, but it is interesting.
> Since I did not like this last pen, I didn't bother turning the last blanks in the photo of glued up blanks. I only made that last one to use up the other halves of the padauk and wild cherry blanks that I had cut up to make the above pen. I sandwiched box elder in it. I put it away in my blank pile. One day I'll think of some other embellishment I wish to add to it to make it interesting.
> .
> You may notice that sometimes I make pens that I find interesting, if ugly. I actually have a good reason for that. You see, from what I've learned, if a pen is interesting, I may find it ugly while someone else may think it is absolutely beautiful. Therefore, as long as it's interesting, I feel it is a good chance that someone, somewhere, will like it. Then I only hope they like it enough to buy it, because Lord knows I need to sells more of my pens if I am to keep turning them.
> .
> That's all for today. Until next time, happy turning.


Ok lew, and others, I'm turning a bowl and took the time to stop in the middle of it and see how the sanding stick thingy works. 
Ok, actually I'm impatient and wanted to know myself as well.

Upon initial testing on the outside of the bowl, it seems to work great. 
It spins freely, so I cannot understand the advantage of the sphere shaped magnet over the disk shaped magnet I'm using. 
The only thing I could think of is maybe the theory is that the round magnet would contact the end of the mandrel shaft less, this introducing less possibility for friction. I don't think there is enough friction there to make a difference. If that is a concern, simply grind the end of the mandrel shaft into a half sphere shape or a blunted point. This would essentially serve the same purpose of lessening contact area.

Anyway, good hardware stores have bronze bushings and the disk shaped disks can be found in a lot of places, including Home Depot. So give it a try.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *What I Like*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog posts, you know I fairly recently tried power sanding bowls on the lathe and liked it. Well, I've had several people suggest a non-powered method that seems to be popular. I checked into it and do believe that it will work just as well as the power sanding, but easier to deal with. I checked on one suggested system. You can see it if you like by clicking on this link. Besides being out of stock at the moment, I simply do not have the money to afford it at this time. I still wanted to try this type system though.
> So I watched Captain Eddies video here and built his design. I think the one from Penn State will probably be better, but this one will get me started until I can afford to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is really just a handle with holes drilled into it. Inside those holes is a magnet that is glued into the bottom to keep the sanding attachment from just falling out. While Captain Eddie sells a bushing set that probably works wonderfully for this tool, I did not have the money to buy that at the moment either. So I used quarter inch bronze bushings that I got at my local hardware store.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sanding attachment, I read an article here.
> They are simple to make really. They are just a piece of three quarter inch plywood cut into a two inch diameter circle. The mandrel shaft is just a quarter inch carriage bolt with the head cut off. The threaded end is used to attach it to the plywood disk using nuts, washers, and a drop of CA glue to prevent the nut from moving once tightened down. The foam rubber and Velcro backing is attached using thick CA glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the three different locations I can put the sanding attachments. By moving the attachment being used to a different hole I can sand straight out from the handle, at a ninety degree angle to it, or a forty five degree angle.
> If this works like I think it will, I think I will like the adjustable angle on the Penn State model better. I can make do with this though until I can afford that. I haven't used it yet on a bowl, but will be sure to report back on the results when I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, for the meaning of the title of this blog post.
> The recent pens I've been making have been made from some very interesting burls and such. While I enjoy using these type materials, it is not what I really enjoy the most. What I like is this, making blanks. I enjoy gluing up my own blanks instead of using solid pieces. While I can never match the beauty that comes from nature in the form of a beautiful burl blank, or some interesting spalting in just the right area of a blank, I just seem to get more satisfaction from gluing up blanks like these. It is fun to experiment and you never know for sure how they will turn out until you put the cutting tool to the wood on the lathe.
> You see the blanks in the photo. Now I'll go from the top down and show you how they turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is mulberry and bocote. This one was an attempt at making a chevron design. I was recently asked about putting a chevron on a pen. Until I went online to find out what a chevron even was, I was a little lost for words, and that is truly unusual for me. So after seeing what a chevron was, I started trying to get on in a design. I do not know if this qualifies or not. I will have to ask for opinions on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the same chevron styling in mind, I made this one from padauk, ziricote, and hedge apple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one was supposed to be a zig zag down the length of the pen as I'd seen on some other chevron themed items on the internet. Remember what I said about you never know for sure how they'll turn out? I neglected to remember the curvation effect that turning a square blank round has on intersecting lines. I still like the way it turned out though. It is an interesting pen in my personal opinion.
> It is made of mulberry and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one is blood wood and mulberry. It is simply another one of my "why not" ideas. When I start playing with these wave designs, it almost always creates interesting patterns. Remember that interesting does not always mean it looks good or is pretty. Sometimes the ones I find ugly as homemade sin are also the most interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I just wanted to see how this idea would turn out, and there is only one way to find out. I cut two blanks, one wild cherry and one padauk, at a long angle and sandwiched a strip of mulberry in there. I do not like this pen, but it is interesting.
> Since I did not like this last pen, I didn't bother turning the last blanks in the photo of glued up blanks. I only made that last one to use up the other halves of the padauk and wild cherry blanks that I had cut up to make the above pen. I sandwiched box elder in it. I put it away in my blank pile. One day I'll think of some other embellishment I wish to add to it to make it interesting.
> .
> You may notice that sometimes I make pens that I find interesting, if ugly. I actually have a good reason for that. You see, from what I've learned, if a pen is interesting, I may find it ugly while someone else may think it is absolutely beautiful. Therefore, as long as it's interesting, I feel it is a good chance that someone, somewhere, will like it. Then I only hope they like it enough to buy it, because Lord knows I need to sells more of my pens if I am to keep turning them.
> .
> That's all for today. Until next time, happy turning.


You are an experimental genius, William. All, super nice writing instruments.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *What I Like*
> 
> If you've been reading my blog posts, you know I fairly recently tried power sanding bowls on the lathe and liked it. Well, I've had several people suggest a non-powered method that seems to be popular. I checked into it and do believe that it will work just as well as the power sanding, but easier to deal with. I checked on one suggested system. You can see it if you like by clicking on this link. Besides being out of stock at the moment, I simply do not have the money to afford it at this time. I still wanted to try this type system though.
> So I watched Captain Eddies video here and built his design. I think the one from Penn State will probably be better, but this one will get me started until I can afford to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is really just a handle with holes drilled into it. Inside those holes is a magnet that is glued into the bottom to keep the sanding attachment from just falling out. While Captain Eddie sells a bushing set that probably works wonderfully for this tool, I did not have the money to buy that at the moment either. So I used quarter inch bronze bushings that I got at my local hardware store.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the sanding attachment, I read an article here.
> They are simple to make really. They are just a piece of three quarter inch plywood cut into a two inch diameter circle. The mandrel shaft is just a quarter inch carriage bolt with the head cut off. The threaded end is used to attach it to the plywood disk using nuts, washers, and a drop of CA glue to prevent the nut from moving once tightened down. The foam rubber and Velcro backing is attached using thick CA glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the three different locations I can put the sanding attachments. By moving the attachment being used to a different hole I can sand straight out from the handle, at a ninety degree angle to it, or a forty five degree angle.
> If this works like I think it will, I think I will like the adjustable angle on the Penn State model better. I can make do with this though until I can afford that. I haven't used it yet on a bowl, but will be sure to report back on the results when I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, for the meaning of the title of this blog post.
> The recent pens I've been making have been made from some very interesting burls and such. While I enjoy using these type materials, it is not what I really enjoy the most. What I like is this, making blanks. I enjoy gluing up my own blanks instead of using solid pieces. While I can never match the beauty that comes from nature in the form of a beautiful burl blank, or some interesting spalting in just the right area of a blank, I just seem to get more satisfaction from gluing up blanks like these. It is fun to experiment and you never know for sure how they will turn out until you put the cutting tool to the wood on the lathe.
> You see the blanks in the photo. Now I'll go from the top down and show you how they turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is mulberry and bocote. This one was an attempt at making a chevron design. I was recently asked about putting a chevron on a pen. Until I went online to find out what a chevron even was, I was a little lost for words, and that is truly unusual for me. So after seeing what a chevron was, I started trying to get on in a design. I do not know if this qualifies or not. I will have to ask for opinions on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the same chevron styling in mind, I made this one from padauk, ziricote, and hedge apple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one was supposed to be a zig zag down the length of the pen as I'd seen on some other chevron themed items on the internet. Remember what I said about you never know for sure how they'll turn out? I neglected to remember the curvation effect that turning a square blank round has on intersecting lines. I still like the way it turned out though. It is an interesting pen in my personal opinion.
> It is made of mulberry and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next one is blood wood and mulberry. It is simply another one of my "why not" ideas. When I start playing with these wave designs, it almost always creates interesting patterns. Remember that interesting does not always mean it looks good or is pretty. Sometimes the ones I find ugly as homemade sin are also the most interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I just wanted to see how this idea would turn out, and there is only one way to find out. I cut two blanks, one wild cherry and one padauk, at a long angle and sandwiched a strip of mulberry in there. I do not like this pen, but it is interesting.
> Since I did not like this last pen, I didn't bother turning the last blanks in the photo of glued up blanks. I only made that last one to use up the other halves of the padauk and wild cherry blanks that I had cut up to make the above pen. I sandwiched box elder in it. I put it away in my blank pile. One day I'll think of some other embellishment I wish to add to it to make it interesting.
> .
> You may notice that sometimes I make pens that I find interesting, if ugly. I actually have a good reason for that. You see, from what I've learned, if a pen is interesting, I may find it ugly while someone else may think it is absolutely beautiful. Therefore, as long as it's interesting, I feel it is a good chance that someone, somewhere, will like it. Then I only hope they like it enough to buy it, because Lord knows I need to sells more of my pens if I am to keep turning them.
> .
> That's all for today. Until next time, happy turning.


I don't know about genius Roger.
I may be an experiment though.
I show more results on today's blog post.
You can see it here.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Everything Is Experimental*









After posting yesterday's blog post, I received several emails with questions about the magnet I used in it, and how well it does or does not work. So today I decided to test it out so I could answer these questions with some kind of honesty instead of simply giving my best guess.








If you clicked on the link I provided to watch the video on constructing the tool (video is here), you know that a sphere shaped magnet is what is called for. That was one of the issues I was asked about. I did not have a sphere shaped magnet. I used a disk shaped one in each of the holes. You can see in the above photo the type magnet I used and what I used to put it in with. I dropped a tiny bit of CA glue in each hole, stuck the magnet on the end of a long nail, and stuck it in the hole. After allowing the glue to set, I simply pulled the nail out. 








So I needed a test subject. I had this short section of a cedar log setting in the shop and thought it would make a nice bowl.








By the time I thought to snap another photo, I'd already lost several inches of height on the bowl. I'll talk more on that in a bit. First, how does the sander perform?








I found the roughest area I could find to photograph on the bowl. I knew I could find the same area again because, you can't see it in the photo, but the plates on my chuck have reference numbers for placement, and this area is even with the number four plate.








I sanded with eighty grit paper and set a timer for thirty seconds. As you can see if you look closely, it still needs more sanding, but it is a huge improvement. 
So, in my opinion, although I have never used one with the sphere shaped magnet in it, I think this works just fine for what I want. 
Sometime in the future, I plan on buying a commercially made version of this tool. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post my opinion at that time on how it compares to this shop made one.








Now, back to the cedar bowl. I kept losing height. This is one of the joys, and also drawbacks, to turning. You never know what you're going to find inside a piece of wood until you start turning it. Well, this particular piece of wood had more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk. Every time I got it looking good, a piece would break along a crack somewhere near the rim.








You can see here what I mean. 
No big deal. I like to think of headaches such as this one as learning exercises. So what could I learn from this bowl that seems to not want to be completed?
I decided that, with the crack and the brittle nature of very dry cedar, I'd see how thin I could get the walls. That's something I've been working towards is getting the walls of my work thinner.








I got it down to an eighth of an inch and everything was going great. Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl.








No.
Seriously, a bowl that breaks into many pieces at high RPMs becomes shrapnel.
This is all the pieces I could find of it for the photo.








And *THAT*, my friends, is why you always, *ALWAYS*, wear a full face shield while turning.
Of course, I was asking for this one to blow apart. However, you never know when it will happen. In the past, I have had bowls, or parts of bowls, leave the lathe at high speeds when I least expected it. 
.
Until next time, happy turning!


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Everything Is Experimental*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After posting yesterday's blog post, I received several emails with questions about the magnet I used in it, and how well it does or does not work. So today I decided to test it out so I could answer these questions with some kind of honesty instead of simply giving my best guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you clicked on the link I provided to watch the video on constructing the tool (video is here), you know that a sphere shaped magnet is what is called for. That was one of the issues I was asked about. I did not have a sphere shaped magnet. I used a disk shaped one in each of the holes. You can see in the above photo the type magnet I used and what I used to put it in with. I dropped a tiny bit of CA glue in each hole, stuck the magnet on the end of a long nail, and stuck it in the hole. After allowing the glue to set, I simply pulled the nail out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I needed a test subject. I had this short section of a cedar log setting in the shop and thought it would make a nice bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I thought to snap another photo, I'd already lost several inches of height on the bowl. I'll talk more on that in a bit. First, how does the sander perform?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found the roughest area I could find to photograph on the bowl. I knew I could find the same area again because, you can't see it in the photo, but the plates on my chuck have reference numbers for placement, and this area is even with the number four plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded with eighty grit paper and set a timer for thirty seconds. As you can see if you look closely, it still needs more sanding, but it is a huge improvement.
> So, in my opinion, although I have never used one with the sphere shaped magnet in it, I think this works just fine for what I want.
> Sometime in the future, I plan on buying a commercially made version of this tool. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post my opinion at that time on how it compares to this shop made one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the cedar bowl. I kept losing height. This is one of the joys, and also drawbacks, to turning. You never know what you're going to find inside a piece of wood until you start turning it. Well, this particular piece of wood had more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk. Every time I got it looking good, a piece would break along a crack somewhere near the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here what I mean.
> No big deal. I like to think of headaches such as this one as learning exercises. So what could I learn from this bowl that seems to not want to be completed?
> I decided that, with the crack and the brittle nature of very dry cedar, I'd see how thin I could get the walls. That's something I've been working towards is getting the walls of my work thinner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it down to an eighth of an inch and everything was going great. Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> Seriously, a bowl that breaks into many pieces at high RPMs becomes shrapnel.
> This is all the pieces I could find of it for the photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And *THAT*, my friends, is why you always, *ALWAYS*, wear a full face shield while turning.
> Of course, I was asking for this one to blow apart. However, you never know when it will happen. In the past, I have had bowls, or parts of bowls, leave the lathe at high speeds when I least expected it.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


You have convinced me. I DO NOT NEED A LATHE!

But you do seem to enjoy yours. Carry on. (carefully)


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Everything Is Experimental*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After posting yesterday's blog post, I received several emails with questions about the magnet I used in it, and how well it does or does not work. So today I decided to test it out so I could answer these questions with some kind of honesty instead of simply giving my best guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you clicked on the link I provided to watch the video on constructing the tool (video is here), you know that a sphere shaped magnet is what is called for. That was one of the issues I was asked about. I did not have a sphere shaped magnet. I used a disk shaped one in each of the holes. You can see in the above photo the type magnet I used and what I used to put it in with. I dropped a tiny bit of CA glue in each hole, stuck the magnet on the end of a long nail, and stuck it in the hole. After allowing the glue to set, I simply pulled the nail out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I needed a test subject. I had this short section of a cedar log setting in the shop and thought it would make a nice bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I thought to snap another photo, I'd already lost several inches of height on the bowl. I'll talk more on that in a bit. First, how does the sander perform?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found the roughest area I could find to photograph on the bowl. I knew I could find the same area again because, you can't see it in the photo, but the plates on my chuck have reference numbers for placement, and this area is even with the number four plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded with eighty grit paper and set a timer for thirty seconds. As you can see if you look closely, it still needs more sanding, but it is a huge improvement.
> So, in my opinion, although I have never used one with the sphere shaped magnet in it, I think this works just fine for what I want.
> Sometime in the future, I plan on buying a commercially made version of this tool. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post my opinion at that time on how it compares to this shop made one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the cedar bowl. I kept losing height. This is one of the joys, and also drawbacks, to turning. You never know what you're going to find inside a piece of wood until you start turning it. Well, this particular piece of wood had more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk. Every time I got it looking good, a piece would break along a crack somewhere near the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here what I mean.
> No big deal. I like to think of headaches such as this one as learning exercises. So what could I learn from this bowl that seems to not want to be completed?
> I decided that, with the crack and the brittle nature of very dry cedar, I'd see how thin I could get the walls. That's something I've been working towards is getting the walls of my work thinner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it down to an eighth of an inch and everything was going great. Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> Seriously, a bowl that breaks into many pieces at high RPMs becomes shrapnel.
> This is all the pieces I could find of it for the photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And *THAT*, my friends, is why you always, *ALWAYS*, wear a full face shield while turning.
> Of course, I was asking for this one to blow apart. However, you never know when it will happen. In the past, I have had bowls, or parts of bowls, leave the lathe at high speeds when I least expected it.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


Great write-up….

I see no reason to go crazy looking for spherical magnets. Your utilization of a disk magnet works great.

Where did you get the "shafted sanding pad" from??? Is it readily available locally?

Bummer on the bowl blow out! Glad you were not hurt in the "explosion"!!!
I DON'T see why a full face shield is needed….
You can't do any more damage to YOUR mug!!! ;^)

Thanks for sharing your results of the experiment!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Everything Is Experimental*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After posting yesterday's blog post, I received several emails with questions about the magnet I used in it, and how well it does or does not work. So today I decided to test it out so I could answer these questions with some kind of honesty instead of simply giving my best guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you clicked on the link I provided to watch the video on constructing the tool (video is here), you know that a sphere shaped magnet is what is called for. That was one of the issues I was asked about. I did not have a sphere shaped magnet. I used a disk shaped one in each of the holes. You can see in the above photo the type magnet I used and what I used to put it in with. I dropped a tiny bit of CA glue in each hole, stuck the magnet on the end of a long nail, and stuck it in the hole. After allowing the glue to set, I simply pulled the nail out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I needed a test subject. I had this short section of a cedar log setting in the shop and thought it would make a nice bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I thought to snap another photo, I'd already lost several inches of height on the bowl. I'll talk more on that in a bit. First, how does the sander perform?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found the roughest area I could find to photograph on the bowl. I knew I could find the same area again because, you can't see it in the photo, but the plates on my chuck have reference numbers for placement, and this area is even with the number four plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded with eighty grit paper and set a timer for thirty seconds. As you can see if you look closely, it still needs more sanding, but it is a huge improvement.
> So, in my opinion, although I have never used one with the sphere shaped magnet in it, I think this works just fine for what I want.
> Sometime in the future, I plan on buying a commercially made version of this tool. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post my opinion at that time on how it compares to this shop made one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the cedar bowl. I kept losing height. This is one of the joys, and also drawbacks, to turning. You never know what you're going to find inside a piece of wood until you start turning it. Well, this particular piece of wood had more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk. Every time I got it looking good, a piece would break along a crack somewhere near the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here what I mean.
> No big deal. I like to think of headaches such as this one as learning exercises. So what could I learn from this bowl that seems to not want to be completed?
> I decided that, with the crack and the brittle nature of very dry cedar, I'd see how thin I could get the walls. That's something I've been working towards is getting the walls of my work thinner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it down to an eighth of an inch and everything was going great. Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> Seriously, a bowl that breaks into many pieces at high RPMs becomes shrapnel.
> This is all the pieces I could find of it for the photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And *THAT*, my friends, is why you always, *ALWAYS*, wear a full face shield while turning.
> Of course, I was asking for this one to blow apart. However, you never know when it will happen. In the past, I have had bowls, or parts of bowls, leave the lathe at high speeds when I least expected it.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


The lathe can be as safe as you make it Andy. If you don't take many chances, then the chances are slim for something to go wrong. 
Of course, I've never been the type of fella to not take chances.

Randy, here is an article to make the sanding attachments. 
All you need to make them is 3/4" plywood, a 1/4" carriage bolt about 2 1/2" long, two nuts and two washers, some glue (hot glue is recommended in the article, but I used CA glue), some kind of foam, and some velcro. 
Everything can be picked up locally. I had everything for mine lying around the shop.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Everything Is Experimental*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After posting yesterday's blog post, I received several emails with questions about the magnet I used in it, and how well it does or does not work. So today I decided to test it out so I could answer these questions with some kind of honesty instead of simply giving my best guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you clicked on the link I provided to watch the video on constructing the tool (video is here), you know that a sphere shaped magnet is what is called for. That was one of the issues I was asked about. I did not have a sphere shaped magnet. I used a disk shaped one in each of the holes. You can see in the above photo the type magnet I used and what I used to put it in with. I dropped a tiny bit of CA glue in each hole, stuck the magnet on the end of a long nail, and stuck it in the hole. After allowing the glue to set, I simply pulled the nail out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I needed a test subject. I had this short section of a cedar log setting in the shop and thought it would make a nice bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I thought to snap another photo, I'd already lost several inches of height on the bowl. I'll talk more on that in a bit. First, how does the sander perform?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found the roughest area I could find to photograph on the bowl. I knew I could find the same area again because, you can't see it in the photo, but the plates on my chuck have reference numbers for placement, and this area is even with the number four plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded with eighty grit paper and set a timer for thirty seconds. As you can see if you look closely, it still needs more sanding, but it is a huge improvement.
> So, in my opinion, although I have never used one with the sphere shaped magnet in it, I think this works just fine for what I want.
> Sometime in the future, I plan on buying a commercially made version of this tool. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post my opinion at that time on how it compares to this shop made one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the cedar bowl. I kept losing height. This is one of the joys, and also drawbacks, to turning. You never know what you're going to find inside a piece of wood until you start turning it. Well, this particular piece of wood had more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk. Every time I got it looking good, a piece would break along a crack somewhere near the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here what I mean.
> No big deal. I like to think of headaches such as this one as learning exercises. So what could I learn from this bowl that seems to not want to be completed?
> I decided that, with the crack and the brittle nature of very dry cedar, I'd see how thin I could get the walls. That's something I've been working towards is getting the walls of my work thinner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it down to an eighth of an inch and everything was going great. Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> Seriously, a bowl that breaks into many pieces at high RPMs becomes shrapnel.
> This is all the pieces I could find of it for the photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And *THAT*, my friends, is why you always, *ALWAYS*, wear a full face shield while turning.
> Of course, I was asking for this one to blow apart. However, you never know when it will happen. In the past, I have had bowls, or parts of bowls, leave the lathe at high speeds when I least expected it.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


that cedar was looking good too, maybe a little thicker it would have made it ,lots of pretty grain in it , now i remember why i dont have one too ,


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Everything Is Experimental*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After posting yesterday's blog post, I received several emails with questions about the magnet I used in it, and how well it does or does not work. So today I decided to test it out so I could answer these questions with some kind of honesty instead of simply giving my best guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you clicked on the link I provided to watch the video on constructing the tool (video is here), you know that a sphere shaped magnet is what is called for. That was one of the issues I was asked about. I did not have a sphere shaped magnet. I used a disk shaped one in each of the holes. You can see in the above photo the type magnet I used and what I used to put it in with. I dropped a tiny bit of CA glue in each hole, stuck the magnet on the end of a long nail, and stuck it in the hole. After allowing the glue to set, I simply pulled the nail out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I needed a test subject. I had this short section of a cedar log setting in the shop and thought it would make a nice bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I thought to snap another photo, I'd already lost several inches of height on the bowl. I'll talk more on that in a bit. First, how does the sander perform?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found the roughest area I could find to photograph on the bowl. I knew I could find the same area again because, you can't see it in the photo, but the plates on my chuck have reference numbers for placement, and this area is even with the number four plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded with eighty grit paper and set a timer for thirty seconds. As you can see if you look closely, it still needs more sanding, but it is a huge improvement.
> So, in my opinion, although I have never used one with the sphere shaped magnet in it, I think this works just fine for what I want.
> Sometime in the future, I plan on buying a commercially made version of this tool. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post my opinion at that time on how it compares to this shop made one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the cedar bowl. I kept losing height. This is one of the joys, and also drawbacks, to turning. You never know what you're going to find inside a piece of wood until you start turning it. Well, this particular piece of wood had more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk. Every time I got it looking good, a piece would break along a crack somewhere near the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here what I mean.
> No big deal. I like to think of headaches such as this one as learning exercises. So what could I learn from this bowl that seems to not want to be completed?
> I decided that, with the crack and the brittle nature of very dry cedar, I'd see how thin I could get the walls. That's something I've been working towards is getting the walls of my work thinner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it down to an eighth of an inch and everything was going great. Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> Seriously, a bowl that breaks into many pieces at high RPMs becomes shrapnel.
> This is all the pieces I could find of it for the photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And *THAT*, my friends, is why you always, *ALWAYS*, wear a full face shield while turning.
> Of course, I was asking for this one to blow apart. However, you never know when it will happen. In the past, I have had bowls, or parts of bowls, leave the lathe at high speeds when I least expected it.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


Thanks for the link.
That looks easy enough that even I could make one!!!

Keep up the experimenting, learning, teaching and rambling….


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Everything Is Experimental*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After posting yesterday's blog post, I received several emails with questions about the magnet I used in it, and how well it does or does not work. So today I decided to test it out so I could answer these questions with some kind of honesty instead of simply giving my best guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you clicked on the link I provided to watch the video on constructing the tool (video is here), you know that a sphere shaped magnet is what is called for. That was one of the issues I was asked about. I did not have a sphere shaped magnet. I used a disk shaped one in each of the holes. You can see in the above photo the type magnet I used and what I used to put it in with. I dropped a tiny bit of CA glue in each hole, stuck the magnet on the end of a long nail, and stuck it in the hole. After allowing the glue to set, I simply pulled the nail out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I needed a test subject. I had this short section of a cedar log setting in the shop and thought it would make a nice bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I thought to snap another photo, I'd already lost several inches of height on the bowl. I'll talk more on that in a bit. First, how does the sander perform?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found the roughest area I could find to photograph on the bowl. I knew I could find the same area again because, you can't see it in the photo, but the plates on my chuck have reference numbers for placement, and this area is even with the number four plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded with eighty grit paper and set a timer for thirty seconds. As you can see if you look closely, it still needs more sanding, but it is a huge improvement.
> So, in my opinion, although I have never used one with the sphere shaped magnet in it, I think this works just fine for what I want.
> Sometime in the future, I plan on buying a commercially made version of this tool. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post my opinion at that time on how it compares to this shop made one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the cedar bowl. I kept losing height. This is one of the joys, and also drawbacks, to turning. You never know what you're going to find inside a piece of wood until you start turning it. Well, this particular piece of wood had more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk. Every time I got it looking good, a piece would break along a crack somewhere near the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here what I mean.
> No big deal. I like to think of headaches such as this one as learning exercises. So what could I learn from this bowl that seems to not want to be completed?
> I decided that, with the crack and the brittle nature of very dry cedar, I'd see how thin I could get the walls. That's something I've been working towards is getting the walls of my work thinner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it down to an eighth of an inch and everything was going great. Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> Seriously, a bowl that breaks into many pieces at high RPMs becomes shrapnel.
> This is all the pieces I could find of it for the photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And *THAT*, my friends, is why you always, *ALWAYS*, wear a full face shield while turning.
> Of course, I was asking for this one to blow apart. However, you never know when it will happen. In the past, I have had bowls, or parts of bowls, leave the lathe at high speeds when I least expected it.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


Red cedar does not turn well when it is too thin. I usually stop about 3/16 to 1/4". It also splits like crazy and does not take poly well. I usually use tung oil and minwax mixed 50/50. Glad to know the face shield saved your pretty face.


----------



## sras

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Everything Is Experimental*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After posting yesterday's blog post, I received several emails with questions about the magnet I used in it, and how well it does or does not work. So today I decided to test it out so I could answer these questions with some kind of honesty instead of simply giving my best guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you clicked on the link I provided to watch the video on constructing the tool (video is here), you know that a sphere shaped magnet is what is called for. That was one of the issues I was asked about. I did not have a sphere shaped magnet. I used a disk shaped one in each of the holes. You can see in the above photo the type magnet I used and what I used to put it in with. I dropped a tiny bit of CA glue in each hole, stuck the magnet on the end of a long nail, and stuck it in the hole. After allowing the glue to set, I simply pulled the nail out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I needed a test subject. I had this short section of a cedar log setting in the shop and thought it would make a nice bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I thought to snap another photo, I'd already lost several inches of height on the bowl. I'll talk more on that in a bit. First, how does the sander perform?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found the roughest area I could find to photograph on the bowl. I knew I could find the same area again because, you can't see it in the photo, but the plates on my chuck have reference numbers for placement, and this area is even with the number four plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded with eighty grit paper and set a timer for thirty seconds. As you can see if you look closely, it still needs more sanding, but it is a huge improvement.
> So, in my opinion, although I have never used one with the sphere shaped magnet in it, I think this works just fine for what I want.
> Sometime in the future, I plan on buying a commercially made version of this tool. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post my opinion at that time on how it compares to this shop made one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the cedar bowl. I kept losing height. This is one of the joys, and also drawbacks, to turning. You never know what you're going to find inside a piece of wood until you start turning it. Well, this particular piece of wood had more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk. Every time I got it looking good, a piece would break along a crack somewhere near the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here what I mean.
> No big deal. I like to think of headaches such as this one as learning exercises. So what could I learn from this bowl that seems to not want to be completed?
> I decided that, with the crack and the brittle nature of very dry cedar, I'd see how thin I could get the walls. That's something I've been working towards is getting the walls of my work thinner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it down to an eighth of an inch and everything was going great. Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> Seriously, a bowl that breaks into many pieces at high RPMs becomes shrapnel.
> This is all the pieces I could find of it for the photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And *THAT*, my friends, is why you always, *ALWAYS*, wear a full face shield while turning.
> Of course, I was asking for this one to blow apart. However, you never know when it will happen. In the past, I have had bowls, or parts of bowls, leave the lathe at high speeds when I least expected it.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


Your sense of humor is shining through tonight!

I loved "more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk" and "Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl"

Had me laughing out loud!


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Everything Is Experimental*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After posting yesterday's blog post, I received several emails with questions about the magnet I used in it, and how well it does or does not work. So today I decided to test it out so I could answer these questions with some kind of honesty instead of simply giving my best guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you clicked on the link I provided to watch the video on constructing the tool (video is here), you know that a sphere shaped magnet is what is called for. That was one of the issues I was asked about. I did not have a sphere shaped magnet. I used a disk shaped one in each of the holes. You can see in the above photo the type magnet I used and what I used to put it in with. I dropped a tiny bit of CA glue in each hole, stuck the magnet on the end of a long nail, and stuck it in the hole. After allowing the glue to set, I simply pulled the nail out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I needed a test subject. I had this short section of a cedar log setting in the shop and thought it would make a nice bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I thought to snap another photo, I'd already lost several inches of height on the bowl. I'll talk more on that in a bit. First, how does the sander perform?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found the roughest area I could find to photograph on the bowl. I knew I could find the same area again because, you can't see it in the photo, but the plates on my chuck have reference numbers for placement, and this area is even with the number four plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded with eighty grit paper and set a timer for thirty seconds. As you can see if you look closely, it still needs more sanding, but it is a huge improvement.
> So, in my opinion, although I have never used one with the sphere shaped magnet in it, I think this works just fine for what I want.
> Sometime in the future, I plan on buying a commercially made version of this tool. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post my opinion at that time on how it compares to this shop made one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the cedar bowl. I kept losing height. This is one of the joys, and also drawbacks, to turning. You never know what you're going to find inside a piece of wood until you start turning it. Well, this particular piece of wood had more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk. Every time I got it looking good, a piece would break along a crack somewhere near the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here what I mean.
> No big deal. I like to think of headaches such as this one as learning exercises. So what could I learn from this bowl that seems to not want to be completed?
> I decided that, with the crack and the brittle nature of very dry cedar, I'd see how thin I could get the walls. That's something I've been working towards is getting the walls of my work thinner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it down to an eighth of an inch and everything was going great. Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> Seriously, a bowl that breaks into many pieces at high RPMs becomes shrapnel.
> This is all the pieces I could find of it for the photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And *THAT*, my friends, is why you always, *ALWAYS*, wear a full face shield while turning.
> Of course, I was asking for this one to blow apart. However, you never know when it will happen. In the past, I have had bowls, or parts of bowls, leave the lathe at high speeds when I least expected it.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


William,
Thanks for the feedback on the "sanding stick". I'm going to try what you have suggested- using the disc magnet- and see how it works for me.

Lew


----------



## darthford

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Everything Is Experimental*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After posting yesterday's blog post, I received several emails with questions about the magnet I used in it, and how well it does or does not work. So today I decided to test it out so I could answer these questions with some kind of honesty instead of simply giving my best guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you clicked on the link I provided to watch the video on constructing the tool (video is here), you know that a sphere shaped magnet is what is called for. That was one of the issues I was asked about. I did not have a sphere shaped magnet. I used a disk shaped one in each of the holes. You can see in the above photo the type magnet I used and what I used to put it in with. I dropped a tiny bit of CA glue in each hole, stuck the magnet on the end of a long nail, and stuck it in the hole. After allowing the glue to set, I simply pulled the nail out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I needed a test subject. I had this short section of a cedar log setting in the shop and thought it would make a nice bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I thought to snap another photo, I'd already lost several inches of height on the bowl. I'll talk more on that in a bit. First, how does the sander perform?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found the roughest area I could find to photograph on the bowl. I knew I could find the same area again because, you can't see it in the photo, but the plates on my chuck have reference numbers for placement, and this area is even with the number four plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded with eighty grit paper and set a timer for thirty seconds. As you can see if you look closely, it still needs more sanding, but it is a huge improvement.
> So, in my opinion, although I have never used one with the sphere shaped magnet in it, I think this works just fine for what I want.
> Sometime in the future, I plan on buying a commercially made version of this tool. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post my opinion at that time on how it compares to this shop made one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the cedar bowl. I kept losing height. This is one of the joys, and also drawbacks, to turning. You never know what you're going to find inside a piece of wood until you start turning it. Well, this particular piece of wood had more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk. Every time I got it looking good, a piece would break along a crack somewhere near the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here what I mean.
> No big deal. I like to think of headaches such as this one as learning exercises. So what could I learn from this bowl that seems to not want to be completed?
> I decided that, with the crack and the brittle nature of very dry cedar, I'd see how thin I could get the walls. That's something I've been working towards is getting the walls of my work thinner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it down to an eighth of an inch and everything was going great. Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> Seriously, a bowl that breaks into many pieces at high RPMs becomes shrapnel.
> This is all the pieces I could find of it for the photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And *THAT*, my friends, is why you always, *ALWAYS*, wear a full face shield while turning.
> Of course, I was asking for this one to blow apart. However, you never know when it will happen. In the past, I have had bowls, or parts of bowls, leave the lathe at high speeds when I least expected it.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


gfadvm ditto, the UPS Freight driver delivered my mortising machine yesterday and commented the only machine I was missing now was a lathe, I'll correct him next time I see him.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Everything Is Experimental*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After posting yesterday's blog post, I received several emails with questions about the magnet I used in it, and how well it does or does not work. So today I decided to test it out so I could answer these questions with some kind of honesty instead of simply giving my best guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you clicked on the link I provided to watch the video on constructing the tool (video is here), you know that a sphere shaped magnet is what is called for. That was one of the issues I was asked about. I did not have a sphere shaped magnet. I used a disk shaped one in each of the holes. You can see in the above photo the type magnet I used and what I used to put it in with. I dropped a tiny bit of CA glue in each hole, stuck the magnet on the end of a long nail, and stuck it in the hole. After allowing the glue to set, I simply pulled the nail out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I needed a test subject. I had this short section of a cedar log setting in the shop and thought it would make a nice bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I thought to snap another photo, I'd already lost several inches of height on the bowl. I'll talk more on that in a bit. First, how does the sander perform?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found the roughest area I could find to photograph on the bowl. I knew I could find the same area again because, you can't see it in the photo, but the plates on my chuck have reference numbers for placement, and this area is even with the number four plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded with eighty grit paper and set a timer for thirty seconds. As you can see if you look closely, it still needs more sanding, but it is a huge improvement.
> So, in my opinion, although I have never used one with the sphere shaped magnet in it, I think this works just fine for what I want.
> Sometime in the future, I plan on buying a commercially made version of this tool. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post my opinion at that time on how it compares to this shop made one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the cedar bowl. I kept losing height. This is one of the joys, and also drawbacks, to turning. You never know what you're going to find inside a piece of wood until you start turning it. Well, this particular piece of wood had more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk. Every time I got it looking good, a piece would break along a crack somewhere near the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here what I mean.
> No big deal. I like to think of headaches such as this one as learning exercises. So what could I learn from this bowl that seems to not want to be completed?
> I decided that, with the crack and the brittle nature of very dry cedar, I'd see how thin I could get the walls. That's something I've been working towards is getting the walls of my work thinner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it down to an eighth of an inch and everything was going great. Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> Seriously, a bowl that breaks into many pieces at high RPMs becomes shrapnel.
> This is all the pieces I could find of it for the photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And *THAT*, my friends, is why you always, *ALWAYS*, wear a full face shield while turning.
> Of course, I was asking for this one to blow apart. However, you never know when it will happen. In the past, I have had bowls, or parts of bowls, leave the lathe at high speeds when I least expected it.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


Thanks for that info on the sanding thingy William. It worked just fine. If you are aware of those cracks before they break apart, you can put a little super glue on them to prevent breakage.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Everything Is Experimental*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After posting yesterday's blog post, I received several emails with questions about the magnet I used in it, and how well it does or does not work. So today I decided to test it out so I could answer these questions with some kind of honesty instead of simply giving my best guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you clicked on the link I provided to watch the video on constructing the tool (video is here), you know that a sphere shaped magnet is what is called for. That was one of the issues I was asked about. I did not have a sphere shaped magnet. I used a disk shaped one in each of the holes. You can see in the above photo the type magnet I used and what I used to put it in with. I dropped a tiny bit of CA glue in each hole, stuck the magnet on the end of a long nail, and stuck it in the hole. After allowing the glue to set, I simply pulled the nail out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I needed a test subject. I had this short section of a cedar log setting in the shop and thought it would make a nice bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I thought to snap another photo, I'd already lost several inches of height on the bowl. I'll talk more on that in a bit. First, how does the sander perform?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found the roughest area I could find to photograph on the bowl. I knew I could find the same area again because, you can't see it in the photo, but the plates on my chuck have reference numbers for placement, and this area is even with the number four plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded with eighty grit paper and set a timer for thirty seconds. As you can see if you look closely, it still needs more sanding, but it is a huge improvement.
> So, in my opinion, although I have never used one with the sphere shaped magnet in it, I think this works just fine for what I want.
> Sometime in the future, I plan on buying a commercially made version of this tool. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post my opinion at that time on how it compares to this shop made one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the cedar bowl. I kept losing height. This is one of the joys, and also drawbacks, to turning. You never know what you're going to find inside a piece of wood until you start turning it. Well, this particular piece of wood had more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk. Every time I got it looking good, a piece would break along a crack somewhere near the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here what I mean.
> No big deal. I like to think of headaches such as this one as learning exercises. So what could I learn from this bowl that seems to not want to be completed?
> I decided that, with the crack and the brittle nature of very dry cedar, I'd see how thin I could get the walls. That's something I've been working towards is getting the walls of my work thinner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it down to an eighth of an inch and everything was going great. Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> Seriously, a bowl that breaks into many pieces at high RPMs becomes shrapnel.
> This is all the pieces I could find of it for the photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And *THAT*, my friends, is why you always, *ALWAYS*, wear a full face shield while turning.
> Of course, I was asking for this one to blow apart. However, you never know when it will happen. In the past, I have had bowls, or parts of bowls, leave the lathe at high speeds when I least expected it.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


You are right about just being aware of the unexpected. We all need to practice safety to protect ourselves.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Everything Is Experimental*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After posting yesterday's blog post, I received several emails with questions about the magnet I used in it, and how well it does or does not work. So today I decided to test it out so I could answer these questions with some kind of honesty instead of simply giving my best guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you clicked on the link I provided to watch the video on constructing the tool (video is here), you know that a sphere shaped magnet is what is called for. That was one of the issues I was asked about. I did not have a sphere shaped magnet. I used a disk shaped one in each of the holes. You can see in the above photo the type magnet I used and what I used to put it in with. I dropped a tiny bit of CA glue in each hole, stuck the magnet on the end of a long nail, and stuck it in the hole. After allowing the glue to set, I simply pulled the nail out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I needed a test subject. I had this short section of a cedar log setting in the shop and thought it would make a nice bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I thought to snap another photo, I'd already lost several inches of height on the bowl. I'll talk more on that in a bit. First, how does the sander perform?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found the roughest area I could find to photograph on the bowl. I knew I could find the same area again because, you can't see it in the photo, but the plates on my chuck have reference numbers for placement, and this area is even with the number four plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded with eighty grit paper and set a timer for thirty seconds. As you can see if you look closely, it still needs more sanding, but it is a huge improvement.
> So, in my opinion, although I have never used one with the sphere shaped magnet in it, I think this works just fine for what I want.
> Sometime in the future, I plan on buying a commercially made version of this tool. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post my opinion at that time on how it compares to this shop made one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the cedar bowl. I kept losing height. This is one of the joys, and also drawbacks, to turning. You never know what you're going to find inside a piece of wood until you start turning it. Well, this particular piece of wood had more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk. Every time I got it looking good, a piece would break along a crack somewhere near the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here what I mean.
> No big deal. I like to think of headaches such as this one as learning exercises. So what could I learn from this bowl that seems to not want to be completed?
> I decided that, with the crack and the brittle nature of very dry cedar, I'd see how thin I could get the walls. That's something I've been working towards is getting the walls of my work thinner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it down to an eighth of an inch and everything was going great. Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> Seriously, a bowl that breaks into many pieces at high RPMs becomes shrapnel.
> This is all the pieces I could find of it for the photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And *THAT*, my friends, is why you always, *ALWAYS*, wear a full face shield while turning.
> Of course, I was asking for this one to blow apart. However, you never know when it will happen. In the past, I have had bowls, or parts of bowls, leave the lathe at high speeds when I least expected it.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


Randy, check that link out more when you get a chance. There are a lot of tools there that you can make yourself. He also has a lot of videos and articles on things such as techniques and sharpening. That site is well worth exploring for turners.

Eddie and Bearpie. I knew I could have save the bowl at one point. I made up my mind though that I couldn't get what I wanted out of it so I may as well have some fun with it.

Bearpie, pretty face?
You are either trying to be sarcastic or you need to get your eyes checked pronto.

Steve, I'm glad you liked it. I had to go back and reread it. When I'm feeling good, I sometimes get a little funny (wife actually just calls it weird) without realizing it.

Lew, now all you need is a handle (shouldn't be a problem for a wood turner) and a bushing. Home Depot did not carry the bushings here. I found mine at a local true value. I used quarter inch bronze bushings.

Darthford, I used to think I didn't need a lathe either. Now I can't step away from it long enough to do much else.

Mike, I've done that before but it didn't work so well on cedar. I think the oils in the cedar kept the glue from adhering too well. I have had good luck gluing cedar if I'm able to sand and clean both surfaces prior to gluing, but not so lucky with cracks. So as I said, it just seemed like a good piece to experiment on.

Roger, you know as well as me, I'm sure, that there is no definites when turning. I admit to being lax on some safety measure while doing other things, but not on the lathe. It only took one pecan bowl to the forehead early on to teach me that lesson.

Thank you all for taking the time to read my ramblings.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Everything Is Experimental*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After posting yesterday's blog post, I received several emails with questions about the magnet I used in it, and how well it does or does not work. So today I decided to test it out so I could answer these questions with some kind of honesty instead of simply giving my best guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you clicked on the link I provided to watch the video on constructing the tool (video is here), you know that a sphere shaped magnet is what is called for. That was one of the issues I was asked about. I did not have a sphere shaped magnet. I used a disk shaped one in each of the holes. You can see in the above photo the type magnet I used and what I used to put it in with. I dropped a tiny bit of CA glue in each hole, stuck the magnet on the end of a long nail, and stuck it in the hole. After allowing the glue to set, I simply pulled the nail out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I needed a test subject. I had this short section of a cedar log setting in the shop and thought it would make a nice bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I thought to snap another photo, I'd already lost several inches of height on the bowl. I'll talk more on that in a bit. First, how does the sander perform?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found the roughest area I could find to photograph on the bowl. I knew I could find the same area again because, you can't see it in the photo, but the plates on my chuck have reference numbers for placement, and this area is even with the number four plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded with eighty grit paper and set a timer for thirty seconds. As you can see if you look closely, it still needs more sanding, but it is a huge improvement.
> So, in my opinion, although I have never used one with the sphere shaped magnet in it, I think this works just fine for what I want.
> Sometime in the future, I plan on buying a commercially made version of this tool. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post my opinion at that time on how it compares to this shop made one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the cedar bowl. I kept losing height. This is one of the joys, and also drawbacks, to turning. You never know what you're going to find inside a piece of wood until you start turning it. Well, this particular piece of wood had more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk. Every time I got it looking good, a piece would break along a crack somewhere near the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here what I mean.
> No big deal. I like to think of headaches such as this one as learning exercises. So what could I learn from this bowl that seems to not want to be completed?
> I decided that, with the crack and the brittle nature of very dry cedar, I'd see how thin I could get the walls. That's something I've been working towards is getting the walls of my work thinner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it down to an eighth of an inch and everything was going great. Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> Seriously, a bowl that breaks into many pieces at high RPMs becomes shrapnel.
> This is all the pieces I could find of it for the photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And *THAT*, my friends, is why you always, *ALWAYS*, wear a full face shield while turning.
> Of course, I was asking for this one to blow apart. However, you never know when it will happen. In the past, I have had bowls, or parts of bowls, leave the lathe at high speeds when I least expected it.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


William I see you are putting those stumps to use.
Remember to DUCK!


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Everything Is Experimental*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After posting yesterday's blog post, I received several emails with questions about the magnet I used in it, and how well it does or does not work. So today I decided to test it out so I could answer these questions with some kind of honesty instead of simply giving my best guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you clicked on the link I provided to watch the video on constructing the tool (video is here), you know that a sphere shaped magnet is what is called for. That was one of the issues I was asked about. I did not have a sphere shaped magnet. I used a disk shaped one in each of the holes. You can see in the above photo the type magnet I used and what I used to put it in with. I dropped a tiny bit of CA glue in each hole, stuck the magnet on the end of a long nail, and stuck it in the hole. After allowing the glue to set, I simply pulled the nail out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I needed a test subject. I had this short section of a cedar log setting in the shop and thought it would make a nice bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I thought to snap another photo, I'd already lost several inches of height on the bowl. I'll talk more on that in a bit. First, how does the sander perform?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found the roughest area I could find to photograph on the bowl. I knew I could find the same area again because, you can't see it in the photo, but the plates on my chuck have reference numbers for placement, and this area is even with the number four plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded with eighty grit paper and set a timer for thirty seconds. As you can see if you look closely, it still needs more sanding, but it is a huge improvement.
> So, in my opinion, although I have never used one with the sphere shaped magnet in it, I think this works just fine for what I want.
> Sometime in the future, I plan on buying a commercially made version of this tool. If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll post my opinion at that time on how it compares to this shop made one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the cedar bowl. I kept losing height. This is one of the joys, and also drawbacks, to turning. You never know what you're going to find inside a piece of wood until you start turning it. Well, this particular piece of wood had more cracks in it than a three mile stretch of side walk. Every time I got it looking good, a piece would break along a crack somewhere near the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here what I mean.
> No big deal. I like to think of headaches such as this one as learning exercises. So what could I learn from this bowl that seems to not want to be completed?
> I decided that, with the crack and the brittle nature of very dry cedar, I'd see how thin I could get the walls. That's something I've been working towards is getting the walls of my work thinner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it down to an eighth of an inch and everything was going great. Then the bowl decided that it would like to be shrapnel more than it wanted to be a bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> Seriously, a bowl that breaks into many pieces at high RPMs becomes shrapnel.
> This is all the pieces I could find of it for the photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And *THAT*, my friends, is why you always, *ALWAYS*, wear a full face shield while turning.
> Of course, I was asking for this one to blow apart. However, you never know when it will happen. In the past, I have had bowls, or parts of bowls, leave the lathe at high speeds when I least expected it.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


William, I always enjoy when you post about things that go wrong. *Not *that I want you to damage yourself of course. You always take things as they come and share the lessons you've learned. I've learned so much from your adventures. I had a chuckle reading Steve's comment, you have such a way with words that's a delight to read - I guess I like it when you're weird. My personal favorite is "I'll try anything once, twice if it don't hurt too bad" (or something like that).

For anyone that's concerned about safety, just learn the rules, understand them, and practice. There are so many things that you can make that don't need a great deal of skill (sandpaper will be your best friend at first). Break the rules only after you know what they are and why. I think William has made rule number one very clear. I'd like to add another one: never use a spindle roughing gouge on end grain. It can break the tool, the tool rest, or worse.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Early Christmas*

The names and places of this story have been changed to protect the innocent. 
.
I learned early on that woodworkers, in general, were a generous lot of folks. They are always willing to help in any way they can. Some other hobbies have people who protect their methods, materials, and such like it was a million dollar proprietary secret. In the land of wood elves though, we openly share anything we can to help others further along in their quest for knowledge and skill. We want others to know the secrets to success.
All of this though, it has become true in multiples since I started turning wood. If it were not for the help and assistance of others, I'd probably still be destroying pecan and oak logs and turning stick pens that looked like a new product line from Crayola called crap-ons. 
I've had wood and blanks arrives from all corners of the country. I've had pen kits shipped to me from other states. I even had a new kind of sandpaper and a gift card to buy supplies and kits supplied to me from another country. 
Each and every time I receive items such as these, it chokes me up and I have a hard time putting into words just how much I appreciate it all. Thank you just doesn't seem to be enough. I have shipped out bowls and pens to different people, but that doesn't feel like it really conveys my gratitude either. It seems that my skills constantly improve and I wish I could send these people better items than what I've sent them before. Shipping gets in the way of that though.
Let me get to the point.








I received a package over the weekend. 
I knew this was coming. It still didn't prepare me though for the emotions I went through upon it's arrival. 
First I felt like a kid on Christmas morning. The packaging helped with this feeling as well. The box you see above was wrapped in a brown wrapper, wrapped up almost like a Christmas present would be, only without the shipping label. 
It was an early Christmas present from Ms. Clause all the way from the great white north.
As I opened the box, there inside was the little things that bring so much joy to me, pen kits and wood. I was happier than a retard in a room full of bouncy balls. 








I received all kinds of pen kits. Some of them I am familiar with. Some of them are things I've never done before and am extremely excited to do so. There was even a kit for s spinning top, which is something I had thought of ordering in the past. How did Santa know this though?








As if all that was not enough though, there was this little velvety bag inside. In the bag was this little doohickey.








It is a turned Christmas ornament. I'm not sure of the wood used, but it is absolutely stunning.








It is engraved with, "Dorothy 2013".
This is an ornament made by Ms. Clause especially for my grand daughter. It is Dorothy's first Christmas ornament. 
.
No, this package did not really come from Ms. Clause. Bear with me here. Remember, I changed the names for this. 
.
I do not have words to express the gratitude I feel for the wood, kits, and other assorted goodies that Ms. Clause sent. Things that are made for my family though, that just about brings a tear to my eye. It is kindness such as this that just goes above anything I know how to describe. I have been told I have a way with words, but I just cannot seem to put enough thank yous into words to express how I feel for something like this.
Thank you Ms. Clause, from the bottom of my heart.








The ornament will be joined on the tree by some ornaments another wood working buddy sent me some time back.
These came from Bubba Clause and his wife. They live in Alabama with their eight tiny ******************** dogs and flying Chevy. 
This year, I will think of the kindness of these wonderful people, who I have only met online, every time I look at my Christmas tree. 
Thank you all. The season has begun. I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving coming up, then a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
.
Now listen to that. I am usually the one who gripes about people jumping the gun on the holidays. I just can't seem to help it this year.








I've even gotten a head start this year on my outside decorating.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Early Christmas*
> 
> The names and places of this story have been changed to protect the innocent.
> .
> I learned early on that woodworkers, in general, were a generous lot of folks. They are always willing to help in any way they can. Some other hobbies have people who protect their methods, materials, and such like it was a million dollar proprietary secret. In the land of wood elves though, we openly share anything we can to help others further along in their quest for knowledge and skill. We want others to know the secrets to success.
> All of this though, it has become true in multiples since I started turning wood. If it were not for the help and assistance of others, I'd probably still be destroying pecan and oak logs and turning stick pens that looked like a new product line from Crayola called crap-ons.
> I've had wood and blanks arrives from all corners of the country. I've had pen kits shipped to me from other states. I even had a new kind of sandpaper and a gift card to buy supplies and kits supplied to me from another country.
> Each and every time I receive items such as these, it chokes me up and I have a hard time putting into words just how much I appreciate it all. Thank you just doesn't seem to be enough. I have shipped out bowls and pens to different people, but that doesn't feel like it really conveys my gratitude either. It seems that my skills constantly improve and I wish I could send these people better items than what I've sent them before. Shipping gets in the way of that though.
> Let me get to the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received a package over the weekend.
> I knew this was coming. It still didn't prepare me though for the emotions I went through upon it's arrival.
> First I felt like a kid on Christmas morning. The packaging helped with this feeling as well. The box you see above was wrapped in a brown wrapper, wrapped up almost like a Christmas present would be, only without the shipping label.
> It was an early Christmas present from Ms. Clause all the way from the great white north.
> As I opened the box, there inside was the little things that bring so much joy to me, pen kits and wood. I was happier than a retard in a room full of bouncy balls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received all kinds of pen kits. Some of them I am familiar with. Some of them are things I've never done before and am extremely excited to do so. There was even a kit for s spinning top, which is something I had thought of ordering in the past. How did Santa know this though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As if all that was not enough though, there was this little velvety bag inside. In the bag was this little doohickey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a turned Christmas ornament. I'm not sure of the wood used, but it is absolutely stunning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is engraved with, "Dorothy 2013".
> This is an ornament made by Ms. Clause especially for my grand daughter. It is Dorothy's first Christmas ornament.
> .
> No, this package did not really come from Ms. Clause. Bear with me here. Remember, I changed the names for this.
> .
> I do not have words to express the gratitude I feel for the wood, kits, and other assorted goodies that Ms. Clause sent. Things that are made for my family though, that just about brings a tear to my eye. It is kindness such as this that just goes above anything I know how to describe. I have been told I have a way with words, but I just cannot seem to put enough thank yous into words to express how I feel for something like this.
> Thank you Ms. Clause, from the bottom of my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ornament will be joined on the tree by some ornaments another wood working buddy sent me some time back.
> These came from Bubba Clause and his wife. They live in Alabama with their eight tiny ******************** dogs and flying Chevy.
> This year, I will think of the kindness of these wonderful people, who I have only met online, every time I look at my Christmas tree.
> Thank you all. The season has begun. I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving coming up, then a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
> .
> Now listen to that. I am usually the one who gripes about people jumping the gun on the holidays. I just can't seem to help it this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've even gotten a head start this year on my outside decorating.


Very cool William…....there are a few good folks left out there…...


----------



## ShaneA

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Early Christmas*
> 
> The names and places of this story have been changed to protect the innocent.
> .
> I learned early on that woodworkers, in general, were a generous lot of folks. They are always willing to help in any way they can. Some other hobbies have people who protect their methods, materials, and such like it was a million dollar proprietary secret. In the land of wood elves though, we openly share anything we can to help others further along in their quest for knowledge and skill. We want others to know the secrets to success.
> All of this though, it has become true in multiples since I started turning wood. If it were not for the help and assistance of others, I'd probably still be destroying pecan and oak logs and turning stick pens that looked like a new product line from Crayola called crap-ons.
> I've had wood and blanks arrives from all corners of the country. I've had pen kits shipped to me from other states. I even had a new kind of sandpaper and a gift card to buy supplies and kits supplied to me from another country.
> Each and every time I receive items such as these, it chokes me up and I have a hard time putting into words just how much I appreciate it all. Thank you just doesn't seem to be enough. I have shipped out bowls and pens to different people, but that doesn't feel like it really conveys my gratitude either. It seems that my skills constantly improve and I wish I could send these people better items than what I've sent them before. Shipping gets in the way of that though.
> Let me get to the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received a package over the weekend.
> I knew this was coming. It still didn't prepare me though for the emotions I went through upon it's arrival.
> First I felt like a kid on Christmas morning. The packaging helped with this feeling as well. The box you see above was wrapped in a brown wrapper, wrapped up almost like a Christmas present would be, only without the shipping label.
> It was an early Christmas present from Ms. Clause all the way from the great white north.
> As I opened the box, there inside was the little things that bring so much joy to me, pen kits and wood. I was happier than a retard in a room full of bouncy balls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received all kinds of pen kits. Some of them I am familiar with. Some of them are things I've never done before and am extremely excited to do so. There was even a kit for s spinning top, which is something I had thought of ordering in the past. How did Santa know this though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As if all that was not enough though, there was this little velvety bag inside. In the bag was this little doohickey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a turned Christmas ornament. I'm not sure of the wood used, but it is absolutely stunning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is engraved with, "Dorothy 2013".
> This is an ornament made by Ms. Clause especially for my grand daughter. It is Dorothy's first Christmas ornament.
> .
> No, this package did not really come from Ms. Clause. Bear with me here. Remember, I changed the names for this.
> .
> I do not have words to express the gratitude I feel for the wood, kits, and other assorted goodies that Ms. Clause sent. Things that are made for my family though, that just about brings a tear to my eye. It is kindness such as this that just goes above anything I know how to describe. I have been told I have a way with words, but I just cannot seem to put enough thank yous into words to express how I feel for something like this.
> Thank you Ms. Clause, from the bottom of my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ornament will be joined on the tree by some ornaments another wood working buddy sent me some time back.
> These came from Bubba Clause and his wife. They live in Alabama with their eight tiny ******************** dogs and flying Chevy.
> This year, I will think of the kindness of these wonderful people, who I have only met online, every time I look at my Christmas tree.
> Thank you all. The season has begun. I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving coming up, then a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
> .
> Now listen to that. I am usually the one who gripes about people jumping the gun on the holidays. I just can't seem to help it this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've even gotten a head start this year on my outside decorating.


Nice! Looking forward to see the final products.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Early Christmas*
> 
> The names and places of this story have been changed to protect the innocent.
> .
> I learned early on that woodworkers, in general, were a generous lot of folks. They are always willing to help in any way they can. Some other hobbies have people who protect their methods, materials, and such like it was a million dollar proprietary secret. In the land of wood elves though, we openly share anything we can to help others further along in their quest for knowledge and skill. We want others to know the secrets to success.
> All of this though, it has become true in multiples since I started turning wood. If it were not for the help and assistance of others, I'd probably still be destroying pecan and oak logs and turning stick pens that looked like a new product line from Crayola called crap-ons.
> I've had wood and blanks arrives from all corners of the country. I've had pen kits shipped to me from other states. I even had a new kind of sandpaper and a gift card to buy supplies and kits supplied to me from another country.
> Each and every time I receive items such as these, it chokes me up and I have a hard time putting into words just how much I appreciate it all. Thank you just doesn't seem to be enough. I have shipped out bowls and pens to different people, but that doesn't feel like it really conveys my gratitude either. It seems that my skills constantly improve and I wish I could send these people better items than what I've sent them before. Shipping gets in the way of that though.
> Let me get to the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received a package over the weekend.
> I knew this was coming. It still didn't prepare me though for the emotions I went through upon it's arrival.
> First I felt like a kid on Christmas morning. The packaging helped with this feeling as well. The box you see above was wrapped in a brown wrapper, wrapped up almost like a Christmas present would be, only without the shipping label.
> It was an early Christmas present from Ms. Clause all the way from the great white north.
> As I opened the box, there inside was the little things that bring so much joy to me, pen kits and wood. I was happier than a retard in a room full of bouncy balls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received all kinds of pen kits. Some of them I am familiar with. Some of them are things I've never done before and am extremely excited to do so. There was even a kit for s spinning top, which is something I had thought of ordering in the past. How did Santa know this though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As if all that was not enough though, there was this little velvety bag inside. In the bag was this little doohickey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a turned Christmas ornament. I'm not sure of the wood used, but it is absolutely stunning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is engraved with, "Dorothy 2013".
> This is an ornament made by Ms. Clause especially for my grand daughter. It is Dorothy's first Christmas ornament.
> .
> No, this package did not really come from Ms. Clause. Bear with me here. Remember, I changed the names for this.
> .
> I do not have words to express the gratitude I feel for the wood, kits, and other assorted goodies that Ms. Clause sent. Things that are made for my family though, that just about brings a tear to my eye. It is kindness such as this that just goes above anything I know how to describe. I have been told I have a way with words, but I just cannot seem to put enough thank yous into words to express how I feel for something like this.
> Thank you Ms. Clause, from the bottom of my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ornament will be joined on the tree by some ornaments another wood working buddy sent me some time back.
> These came from Bubba Clause and his wife. They live in Alabama with their eight tiny ******************** dogs and flying Chevy.
> This year, I will think of the kindness of these wonderful people, who I have only met online, every time I look at my Christmas tree.
> Thank you all. The season has begun. I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving coming up, then a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
> .
> Now listen to that. I am usually the one who gripes about people jumping the gun on the holidays. I just can't seem to help it this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've even gotten a head start this year on my outside decorating.


Gr8 story William. I know you'll turn those blanks into something spectacular.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Early Christmas*
> 
> The names and places of this story have been changed to protect the innocent.
> .
> I learned early on that woodworkers, in general, were a generous lot of folks. They are always willing to help in any way they can. Some other hobbies have people who protect their methods, materials, and such like it was a million dollar proprietary secret. In the land of wood elves though, we openly share anything we can to help others further along in their quest for knowledge and skill. We want others to know the secrets to success.
> All of this though, it has become true in multiples since I started turning wood. If it were not for the help and assistance of others, I'd probably still be destroying pecan and oak logs and turning stick pens that looked like a new product line from Crayola called crap-ons.
> I've had wood and blanks arrives from all corners of the country. I've had pen kits shipped to me from other states. I even had a new kind of sandpaper and a gift card to buy supplies and kits supplied to me from another country.
> Each and every time I receive items such as these, it chokes me up and I have a hard time putting into words just how much I appreciate it all. Thank you just doesn't seem to be enough. I have shipped out bowls and pens to different people, but that doesn't feel like it really conveys my gratitude either. It seems that my skills constantly improve and I wish I could send these people better items than what I've sent them before. Shipping gets in the way of that though.
> Let me get to the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received a package over the weekend.
> I knew this was coming. It still didn't prepare me though for the emotions I went through upon it's arrival.
> First I felt like a kid on Christmas morning. The packaging helped with this feeling as well. The box you see above was wrapped in a brown wrapper, wrapped up almost like a Christmas present would be, only without the shipping label.
> It was an early Christmas present from Ms. Clause all the way from the great white north.
> As I opened the box, there inside was the little things that bring so much joy to me, pen kits and wood. I was happier than a retard in a room full of bouncy balls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received all kinds of pen kits. Some of them I am familiar with. Some of them are things I've never done before and am extremely excited to do so. There was even a kit for s spinning top, which is something I had thought of ordering in the past. How did Santa know this though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As if all that was not enough though, there was this little velvety bag inside. In the bag was this little doohickey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a turned Christmas ornament. I'm not sure of the wood used, but it is absolutely stunning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is engraved with, "Dorothy 2013".
> This is an ornament made by Ms. Clause especially for my grand daughter. It is Dorothy's first Christmas ornament.
> .
> No, this package did not really come from Ms. Clause. Bear with me here. Remember, I changed the names for this.
> .
> I do not have words to express the gratitude I feel for the wood, kits, and other assorted goodies that Ms. Clause sent. Things that are made for my family though, that just about brings a tear to my eye. It is kindness such as this that just goes above anything I know how to describe. I have been told I have a way with words, but I just cannot seem to put enough thank yous into words to express how I feel for something like this.
> Thank you Ms. Clause, from the bottom of my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ornament will be joined on the tree by some ornaments another wood working buddy sent me some time back.
> These came from Bubba Clause and his wife. They live in Alabama with their eight tiny ******************** dogs and flying Chevy.
> This year, I will think of the kindness of these wonderful people, who I have only met online, every time I look at my Christmas tree.
> Thank you all. The season has begun. I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving coming up, then a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
> .
> Now listen to that. I am usually the one who gripes about people jumping the gun on the holidays. I just can't seem to help it this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've even gotten a head start this year on my outside decorating.


Thank ya'll for you comments.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Early Christmas*
> 
> The names and places of this story have been changed to protect the innocent.
> .
> I learned early on that woodworkers, in general, were a generous lot of folks. They are always willing to help in any way they can. Some other hobbies have people who protect their methods, materials, and such like it was a million dollar proprietary secret. In the land of wood elves though, we openly share anything we can to help others further along in their quest for knowledge and skill. We want others to know the secrets to success.
> All of this though, it has become true in multiples since I started turning wood. If it were not for the help and assistance of others, I'd probably still be destroying pecan and oak logs and turning stick pens that looked like a new product line from Crayola called crap-ons.
> I've had wood and blanks arrives from all corners of the country. I've had pen kits shipped to me from other states. I even had a new kind of sandpaper and a gift card to buy supplies and kits supplied to me from another country.
> Each and every time I receive items such as these, it chokes me up and I have a hard time putting into words just how much I appreciate it all. Thank you just doesn't seem to be enough. I have shipped out bowls and pens to different people, but that doesn't feel like it really conveys my gratitude either. It seems that my skills constantly improve and I wish I could send these people better items than what I've sent them before. Shipping gets in the way of that though.
> Let me get to the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received a package over the weekend.
> I knew this was coming. It still didn't prepare me though for the emotions I went through upon it's arrival.
> First I felt like a kid on Christmas morning. The packaging helped with this feeling as well. The box you see above was wrapped in a brown wrapper, wrapped up almost like a Christmas present would be, only without the shipping label.
> It was an early Christmas present from Ms. Clause all the way from the great white north.
> As I opened the box, there inside was the little things that bring so much joy to me, pen kits and wood. I was happier than a retard in a room full of bouncy balls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received all kinds of pen kits. Some of them I am familiar with. Some of them are things I've never done before and am extremely excited to do so. There was even a kit for s spinning top, which is something I had thought of ordering in the past. How did Santa know this though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As if all that was not enough though, there was this little velvety bag inside. In the bag was this little doohickey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a turned Christmas ornament. I'm not sure of the wood used, but it is absolutely stunning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is engraved with, "Dorothy 2013".
> This is an ornament made by Ms. Clause especially for my grand daughter. It is Dorothy's first Christmas ornament.
> .
> No, this package did not really come from Ms. Clause. Bear with me here. Remember, I changed the names for this.
> .
> I do not have words to express the gratitude I feel for the wood, kits, and other assorted goodies that Ms. Clause sent. Things that are made for my family though, that just about brings a tear to my eye. It is kindness such as this that just goes above anything I know how to describe. I have been told I have a way with words, but I just cannot seem to put enough thank yous into words to express how I feel for something like this.
> Thank you Ms. Clause, from the bottom of my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ornament will be joined on the tree by some ornaments another wood working buddy sent me some time back.
> These came from Bubba Clause and his wife. They live in Alabama with their eight tiny ******************** dogs and flying Chevy.
> This year, I will think of the kindness of these wonderful people, who I have only met online, every time I look at my Christmas tree.
> Thank you all. The season has begun. I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving coming up, then a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
> .
> Now listen to that. I am usually the one who gripes about people jumping the gun on the holidays. I just can't seem to help it this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've even gotten a head start this year on my outside decorating.


Hi William, good things happen to good people! I'm not surprised you get things. Check out my recent posting!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Early Christmas*
> 
> The names and places of this story have been changed to protect the innocent.
> .
> I learned early on that woodworkers, in general, were a generous lot of folks. They are always willing to help in any way they can. Some other hobbies have people who protect their methods, materials, and such like it was a million dollar proprietary secret. In the land of wood elves though, we openly share anything we can to help others further along in their quest for knowledge and skill. We want others to know the secrets to success.
> All of this though, it has become true in multiples since I started turning wood. If it were not for the help and assistance of others, I'd probably still be destroying pecan and oak logs and turning stick pens that looked like a new product line from Crayola called crap-ons.
> I've had wood and blanks arrives from all corners of the country. I've had pen kits shipped to me from other states. I even had a new kind of sandpaper and a gift card to buy supplies and kits supplied to me from another country.
> Each and every time I receive items such as these, it chokes me up and I have a hard time putting into words just how much I appreciate it all. Thank you just doesn't seem to be enough. I have shipped out bowls and pens to different people, but that doesn't feel like it really conveys my gratitude either. It seems that my skills constantly improve and I wish I could send these people better items than what I've sent them before. Shipping gets in the way of that though.
> Let me get to the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received a package over the weekend.
> I knew this was coming. It still didn't prepare me though for the emotions I went through upon it's arrival.
> First I felt like a kid on Christmas morning. The packaging helped with this feeling as well. The box you see above was wrapped in a brown wrapper, wrapped up almost like a Christmas present would be, only without the shipping label.
> It was an early Christmas present from Ms. Clause all the way from the great white north.
> As I opened the box, there inside was the little things that bring so much joy to me, pen kits and wood. I was happier than a retard in a room full of bouncy balls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received all kinds of pen kits. Some of them I am familiar with. Some of them are things I've never done before and am extremely excited to do so. There was even a kit for s spinning top, which is something I had thought of ordering in the past. How did Santa know this though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As if all that was not enough though, there was this little velvety bag inside. In the bag was this little doohickey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a turned Christmas ornament. I'm not sure of the wood used, but it is absolutely stunning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is engraved with, "Dorothy 2013".
> This is an ornament made by Ms. Clause especially for my grand daughter. It is Dorothy's first Christmas ornament.
> .
> No, this package did not really come from Ms. Clause. Bear with me here. Remember, I changed the names for this.
> .
> I do not have words to express the gratitude I feel for the wood, kits, and other assorted goodies that Ms. Clause sent. Things that are made for my family though, that just about brings a tear to my eye. It is kindness such as this that just goes above anything I know how to describe. I have been told I have a way with words, but I just cannot seem to put enough thank yous into words to express how I feel for something like this.
> Thank you Ms. Clause, from the bottom of my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ornament will be joined on the tree by some ornaments another wood working buddy sent me some time back.
> These came from Bubba Clause and his wife. They live in Alabama with their eight tiny ******************** dogs and flying Chevy.
> This year, I will think of the kindness of these wonderful people, who I have only met online, every time I look at my Christmas tree.
> Thank you all. The season has begun. I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving coming up, then a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
> .
> Now listen to that. I am usually the one who gripes about people jumping the gun on the holidays. I just can't seem to help it this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've even gotten a head start this year on my outside decorating.


Thanks Bearpie. 
I will check it out.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Early Christmas*
> 
> The names and places of this story have been changed to protect the innocent.
> .
> I learned early on that woodworkers, in general, were a generous lot of folks. They are always willing to help in any way they can. Some other hobbies have people who protect their methods, materials, and such like it was a million dollar proprietary secret. In the land of wood elves though, we openly share anything we can to help others further along in their quest for knowledge and skill. We want others to know the secrets to success.
> All of this though, it has become true in multiples since I started turning wood. If it were not for the help and assistance of others, I'd probably still be destroying pecan and oak logs and turning stick pens that looked like a new product line from Crayola called crap-ons.
> I've had wood and blanks arrives from all corners of the country. I've had pen kits shipped to me from other states. I even had a new kind of sandpaper and a gift card to buy supplies and kits supplied to me from another country.
> Each and every time I receive items such as these, it chokes me up and I have a hard time putting into words just how much I appreciate it all. Thank you just doesn't seem to be enough. I have shipped out bowls and pens to different people, but that doesn't feel like it really conveys my gratitude either. It seems that my skills constantly improve and I wish I could send these people better items than what I've sent them before. Shipping gets in the way of that though.
> Let me get to the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received a package over the weekend.
> I knew this was coming. It still didn't prepare me though for the emotions I went through upon it's arrival.
> First I felt like a kid on Christmas morning. The packaging helped with this feeling as well. The box you see above was wrapped in a brown wrapper, wrapped up almost like a Christmas present would be, only without the shipping label.
> It was an early Christmas present from Ms. Clause all the way from the great white north.
> As I opened the box, there inside was the little things that bring so much joy to me, pen kits and wood. I was happier than a retard in a room full of bouncy balls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received all kinds of pen kits. Some of them I am familiar with. Some of them are things I've never done before and am extremely excited to do so. There was even a kit for s spinning top, which is something I had thought of ordering in the past. How did Santa know this though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As if all that was not enough though, there was this little velvety bag inside. In the bag was this little doohickey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a turned Christmas ornament. I'm not sure of the wood used, but it is absolutely stunning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is engraved with, "Dorothy 2013".
> This is an ornament made by Ms. Clause especially for my grand daughter. It is Dorothy's first Christmas ornament.
> .
> No, this package did not really come from Ms. Clause. Bear with me here. Remember, I changed the names for this.
> .
> I do not have words to express the gratitude I feel for the wood, kits, and other assorted goodies that Ms. Clause sent. Things that are made for my family though, that just about brings a tear to my eye. It is kindness such as this that just goes above anything I know how to describe. I have been told I have a way with words, but I just cannot seem to put enough thank yous into words to express how I feel for something like this.
> Thank you Ms. Clause, from the bottom of my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ornament will be joined on the tree by some ornaments another wood working buddy sent me some time back.
> These came from Bubba Clause and his wife. They live in Alabama with their eight tiny ******************** dogs and flying Chevy.
> This year, I will think of the kindness of these wonderful people, who I have only met online, every time I look at my Christmas tree.
> Thank you all. The season has begun. I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving coming up, then a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
> .
> Now listen to that. I am usually the one who gripes about people jumping the gun on the holidays. I just can't seem to help it this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've even gotten a head start this year on my outside decorating.


All right William!


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Early Christmas*
> 
> The names and places of this story have been changed to protect the innocent.
> .
> I learned early on that woodworkers, in general, were a generous lot of folks. They are always willing to help in any way they can. Some other hobbies have people who protect their methods, materials, and such like it was a million dollar proprietary secret. In the land of wood elves though, we openly share anything we can to help others further along in their quest for knowledge and skill. We want others to know the secrets to success.
> All of this though, it has become true in multiples since I started turning wood. If it were not for the help and assistance of others, I'd probably still be destroying pecan and oak logs and turning stick pens that looked like a new product line from Crayola called crap-ons.
> I've had wood and blanks arrives from all corners of the country. I've had pen kits shipped to me from other states. I even had a new kind of sandpaper and a gift card to buy supplies and kits supplied to me from another country.
> Each and every time I receive items such as these, it chokes me up and I have a hard time putting into words just how much I appreciate it all. Thank you just doesn't seem to be enough. I have shipped out bowls and pens to different people, but that doesn't feel like it really conveys my gratitude either. It seems that my skills constantly improve and I wish I could send these people better items than what I've sent them before. Shipping gets in the way of that though.
> Let me get to the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received a package over the weekend.
> I knew this was coming. It still didn't prepare me though for the emotions I went through upon it's arrival.
> First I felt like a kid on Christmas morning. The packaging helped with this feeling as well. The box you see above was wrapped in a brown wrapper, wrapped up almost like a Christmas present would be, only without the shipping label.
> It was an early Christmas present from Ms. Clause all the way from the great white north.
> As I opened the box, there inside was the little things that bring so much joy to me, pen kits and wood. I was happier than a retard in a room full of bouncy balls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received all kinds of pen kits. Some of them I am familiar with. Some of them are things I've never done before and am extremely excited to do so. There was even a kit for s spinning top, which is something I had thought of ordering in the past. How did Santa know this though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As if all that was not enough though, there was this little velvety bag inside. In the bag was this little doohickey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a turned Christmas ornament. I'm not sure of the wood used, but it is absolutely stunning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is engraved with, "Dorothy 2013".
> This is an ornament made by Ms. Clause especially for my grand daughter. It is Dorothy's first Christmas ornament.
> .
> No, this package did not really come from Ms. Clause. Bear with me here. Remember, I changed the names for this.
> .
> I do not have words to express the gratitude I feel for the wood, kits, and other assorted goodies that Ms. Clause sent. Things that are made for my family though, that just about brings a tear to my eye. It is kindness such as this that just goes above anything I know how to describe. I have been told I have a way with words, but I just cannot seem to put enough thank yous into words to express how I feel for something like this.
> Thank you Ms. Clause, from the bottom of my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ornament will be joined on the tree by some ornaments another wood working buddy sent me some time back.
> These came from Bubba Clause and his wife. They live in Alabama with their eight tiny ******************** dogs and flying Chevy.
> This year, I will think of the kindness of these wonderful people, who I have only met online, every time I look at my Christmas tree.
> Thank you all. The season has begun. I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving coming up, then a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
> .
> Now listen to that. I am usually the one who gripes about people jumping the gun on the holidays. I just can't seem to help it this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've even gotten a head start this year on my outside decorating.


Heartwarming William.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Early Christmas*
> 
> The names and places of this story have been changed to protect the innocent.
> .
> I learned early on that woodworkers, in general, were a generous lot of folks. They are always willing to help in any way they can. Some other hobbies have people who protect their methods, materials, and such like it was a million dollar proprietary secret. In the land of wood elves though, we openly share anything we can to help others further along in their quest for knowledge and skill. We want others to know the secrets to success.
> All of this though, it has become true in multiples since I started turning wood. If it were not for the help and assistance of others, I'd probably still be destroying pecan and oak logs and turning stick pens that looked like a new product line from Crayola called crap-ons.
> I've had wood and blanks arrives from all corners of the country. I've had pen kits shipped to me from other states. I even had a new kind of sandpaper and a gift card to buy supplies and kits supplied to me from another country.
> Each and every time I receive items such as these, it chokes me up and I have a hard time putting into words just how much I appreciate it all. Thank you just doesn't seem to be enough. I have shipped out bowls and pens to different people, but that doesn't feel like it really conveys my gratitude either. It seems that my skills constantly improve and I wish I could send these people better items than what I've sent them before. Shipping gets in the way of that though.
> Let me get to the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received a package over the weekend.
> I knew this was coming. It still didn't prepare me though for the emotions I went through upon it's arrival.
> First I felt like a kid on Christmas morning. The packaging helped with this feeling as well. The box you see above was wrapped in a brown wrapper, wrapped up almost like a Christmas present would be, only without the shipping label.
> It was an early Christmas present from Ms. Clause all the way from the great white north.
> As I opened the box, there inside was the little things that bring so much joy to me, pen kits and wood. I was happier than a retard in a room full of bouncy balls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received all kinds of pen kits. Some of them I am familiar with. Some of them are things I've never done before and am extremely excited to do so. There was even a kit for s spinning top, which is something I had thought of ordering in the past. How did Santa know this though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As if all that was not enough though, there was this little velvety bag inside. In the bag was this little doohickey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a turned Christmas ornament. I'm not sure of the wood used, but it is absolutely stunning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is engraved with, "Dorothy 2013".
> This is an ornament made by Ms. Clause especially for my grand daughter. It is Dorothy's first Christmas ornament.
> .
> No, this package did not really come from Ms. Clause. Bear with me here. Remember, I changed the names for this.
> .
> I do not have words to express the gratitude I feel for the wood, kits, and other assorted goodies that Ms. Clause sent. Things that are made for my family though, that just about brings a tear to my eye. It is kindness such as this that just goes above anything I know how to describe. I have been told I have a way with words, but I just cannot seem to put enough thank yous into words to express how I feel for something like this.
> Thank you Ms. Clause, from the bottom of my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ornament will be joined on the tree by some ornaments another wood working buddy sent me some time back.
> These came from Bubba Clause and his wife. They live in Alabama with their eight tiny ******************** dogs and flying Chevy.
> This year, I will think of the kindness of these wonderful people, who I have only met online, every time I look at my Christmas tree.
> Thank you all. The season has begun. I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving coming up, then a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
> .
> Now listen to that. I am usually the one who gripes about people jumping the gun on the holidays. I just can't seem to help it this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've even gotten a head start this year on my outside decorating.


Thank you both.


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Early Christmas*
> 
> The names and places of this story have been changed to protect the innocent.
> .
> I learned early on that woodworkers, in general, were a generous lot of folks. They are always willing to help in any way they can. Some other hobbies have people who protect their methods, materials, and such like it was a million dollar proprietary secret. In the land of wood elves though, we openly share anything we can to help others further along in their quest for knowledge and skill. We want others to know the secrets to success.
> All of this though, it has become true in multiples since I started turning wood. If it were not for the help and assistance of others, I'd probably still be destroying pecan and oak logs and turning stick pens that looked like a new product line from Crayola called crap-ons.
> I've had wood and blanks arrives from all corners of the country. I've had pen kits shipped to me from other states. I even had a new kind of sandpaper and a gift card to buy supplies and kits supplied to me from another country.
> Each and every time I receive items such as these, it chokes me up and I have a hard time putting into words just how much I appreciate it all. Thank you just doesn't seem to be enough. I have shipped out bowls and pens to different people, but that doesn't feel like it really conveys my gratitude either. It seems that my skills constantly improve and I wish I could send these people better items than what I've sent them before. Shipping gets in the way of that though.
> Let me get to the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received a package over the weekend.
> I knew this was coming. It still didn't prepare me though for the emotions I went through upon it's arrival.
> First I felt like a kid on Christmas morning. The packaging helped with this feeling as well. The box you see above was wrapped in a brown wrapper, wrapped up almost like a Christmas present would be, only without the shipping label.
> It was an early Christmas present from Ms. Clause all the way from the great white north.
> As I opened the box, there inside was the little things that bring so much joy to me, pen kits and wood. I was happier than a retard in a room full of bouncy balls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received all kinds of pen kits. Some of them I am familiar with. Some of them are things I've never done before and am extremely excited to do so. There was even a kit for s spinning top, which is something I had thought of ordering in the past. How did Santa know this though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As if all that was not enough though, there was this little velvety bag inside. In the bag was this little doohickey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a turned Christmas ornament. I'm not sure of the wood used, but it is absolutely stunning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is engraved with, "Dorothy 2013".
> This is an ornament made by Ms. Clause especially for my grand daughter. It is Dorothy's first Christmas ornament.
> .
> No, this package did not really come from Ms. Clause. Bear with me here. Remember, I changed the names for this.
> .
> I do not have words to express the gratitude I feel for the wood, kits, and other assorted goodies that Ms. Clause sent. Things that are made for my family though, that just about brings a tear to my eye. It is kindness such as this that just goes above anything I know how to describe. I have been told I have a way with words, but I just cannot seem to put enough thank yous into words to express how I feel for something like this.
> Thank you Ms. Clause, from the bottom of my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ornament will be joined on the tree by some ornaments another wood working buddy sent me some time back.
> These came from Bubba Clause and his wife. They live in Alabama with their eight tiny ******************** dogs and flying Chevy.
> This year, I will think of the kindness of these wonderful people, who I have only met online, every time I look at my Christmas tree.
> Thank you all. The season has begun. I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving coming up, then a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
> .
> Now listen to that. I am usually the one who gripes about people jumping the gun on the holidays. I just can't seem to help it this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've even gotten a head start this year on my outside decorating.


That Mr and Mrs Clause- You gotta love 'em!


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Early Christmas*
> 
> The names and places of this story have been changed to protect the innocent.
> .
> I learned early on that woodworkers, in general, were a generous lot of folks. They are always willing to help in any way they can. Some other hobbies have people who protect their methods, materials, and such like it was a million dollar proprietary secret. In the land of wood elves though, we openly share anything we can to help others further along in their quest for knowledge and skill. We want others to know the secrets to success.
> All of this though, it has become true in multiples since I started turning wood. If it were not for the help and assistance of others, I'd probably still be destroying pecan and oak logs and turning stick pens that looked like a new product line from Crayola called crap-ons.
> I've had wood and blanks arrives from all corners of the country. I've had pen kits shipped to me from other states. I even had a new kind of sandpaper and a gift card to buy supplies and kits supplied to me from another country.
> Each and every time I receive items such as these, it chokes me up and I have a hard time putting into words just how much I appreciate it all. Thank you just doesn't seem to be enough. I have shipped out bowls and pens to different people, but that doesn't feel like it really conveys my gratitude either. It seems that my skills constantly improve and I wish I could send these people better items than what I've sent them before. Shipping gets in the way of that though.
> Let me get to the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received a package over the weekend.
> I knew this was coming. It still didn't prepare me though for the emotions I went through upon it's arrival.
> First I felt like a kid on Christmas morning. The packaging helped with this feeling as well. The box you see above was wrapped in a brown wrapper, wrapped up almost like a Christmas present would be, only without the shipping label.
> It was an early Christmas present from Ms. Clause all the way from the great white north.
> As I opened the box, there inside was the little things that bring so much joy to me, pen kits and wood. I was happier than a retard in a room full of bouncy balls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received all kinds of pen kits. Some of them I am familiar with. Some of them are things I've never done before and am extremely excited to do so. There was even a kit for s spinning top, which is something I had thought of ordering in the past. How did Santa know this though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As if all that was not enough though, there was this little velvety bag inside. In the bag was this little doohickey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a turned Christmas ornament. I'm not sure of the wood used, but it is absolutely stunning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is engraved with, "Dorothy 2013".
> This is an ornament made by Ms. Clause especially for my grand daughter. It is Dorothy's first Christmas ornament.
> .
> No, this package did not really come from Ms. Clause. Bear with me here. Remember, I changed the names for this.
> .
> I do not have words to express the gratitude I feel for the wood, kits, and other assorted goodies that Ms. Clause sent. Things that are made for my family though, that just about brings a tear to my eye. It is kindness such as this that just goes above anything I know how to describe. I have been told I have a way with words, but I just cannot seem to put enough thank yous into words to express how I feel for something like this.
> Thank you Ms. Clause, from the bottom of my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ornament will be joined on the tree by some ornaments another wood working buddy sent me some time back.
> These came from Bubba Clause and his wife. They live in Alabama with their eight tiny ******************** dogs and flying Chevy.
> This year, I will think of the kindness of these wonderful people, who I have only met online, every time I look at my Christmas tree.
> Thank you all. The season has begun. I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving coming up, then a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
> .
> Now listen to that. I am usually the one who gripes about people jumping the gun on the holidays. I just can't seem to help it this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've even gotten a head start this year on my outside decorating.


Sorry to be sooooo late to the party.
I think I passed out the first time I started to read this. Due to exhaustion (& maybe a little alcohol), but NOT because of boredom!!!)

A fine story of kindness….
A shining example of what this season is all about!!!

Enjoy you gifts and the holidays.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Early Christmas*
> 
> The names and places of this story have been changed to protect the innocent.
> .
> I learned early on that woodworkers, in general, were a generous lot of folks. They are always willing to help in any way they can. Some other hobbies have people who protect their methods, materials, and such like it was a million dollar proprietary secret. In the land of wood elves though, we openly share anything we can to help others further along in their quest for knowledge and skill. We want others to know the secrets to success.
> All of this though, it has become true in multiples since I started turning wood. If it were not for the help and assistance of others, I'd probably still be destroying pecan and oak logs and turning stick pens that looked like a new product line from Crayola called crap-ons.
> I've had wood and blanks arrives from all corners of the country. I've had pen kits shipped to me from other states. I even had a new kind of sandpaper and a gift card to buy supplies and kits supplied to me from another country.
> Each and every time I receive items such as these, it chokes me up and I have a hard time putting into words just how much I appreciate it all. Thank you just doesn't seem to be enough. I have shipped out bowls and pens to different people, but that doesn't feel like it really conveys my gratitude either. It seems that my skills constantly improve and I wish I could send these people better items than what I've sent them before. Shipping gets in the way of that though.
> Let me get to the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received a package over the weekend.
> I knew this was coming. It still didn't prepare me though for the emotions I went through upon it's arrival.
> First I felt like a kid on Christmas morning. The packaging helped with this feeling as well. The box you see above was wrapped in a brown wrapper, wrapped up almost like a Christmas present would be, only without the shipping label.
> It was an early Christmas present from Ms. Clause all the way from the great white north.
> As I opened the box, there inside was the little things that bring so much joy to me, pen kits and wood. I was happier than a retard in a room full of bouncy balls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received all kinds of pen kits. Some of them I am familiar with. Some of them are things I've never done before and am extremely excited to do so. There was even a kit for s spinning top, which is something I had thought of ordering in the past. How did Santa know this though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As if all that was not enough though, there was this little velvety bag inside. In the bag was this little doohickey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a turned Christmas ornament. I'm not sure of the wood used, but it is absolutely stunning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is engraved with, "Dorothy 2013".
> This is an ornament made by Ms. Clause especially for my grand daughter. It is Dorothy's first Christmas ornament.
> .
> No, this package did not really come from Ms. Clause. Bear with me here. Remember, I changed the names for this.
> .
> I do not have words to express the gratitude I feel for the wood, kits, and other assorted goodies that Ms. Clause sent. Things that are made for my family though, that just about brings a tear to my eye. It is kindness such as this that just goes above anything I know how to describe. I have been told I have a way with words, but I just cannot seem to put enough thank yous into words to express how I feel for something like this.
> Thank you Ms. Clause, from the bottom of my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ornament will be joined on the tree by some ornaments another wood working buddy sent me some time back.
> These came from Bubba Clause and his wife. They live in Alabama with their eight tiny ******************** dogs and flying Chevy.
> This year, I will think of the kindness of these wonderful people, who I have only met online, every time I look at my Christmas tree.
> Thank you all. The season has begun. I hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving coming up, then a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
> .
> Now listen to that. I am usually the one who gripes about people jumping the gun on the holidays. I just can't seem to help it this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've even gotten a head start this year on my outside decorating.


Thank you lew and randy.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Pens And Tools*

















I wanted to make my son's karate teacher a nice pen. I was thinking about what to make it out of to set it apart. He seems like the type of guy, to me, who would appreciate something simple, yet different. 
I remembered that I had been wanting to turn a piece of bamboo that was given to me and thought it was quite fitting for a karate instructor.
I presented him with this pen Wednesday night before the class started, and he really liked it.
















This one I done because it was a special request. 
It is a .45-70 shell casing done with deer antler.








Since getting it, I have been cleaning tubes out with my nifty little tool I got from Penn State. It usually does a great job. However, every now and again, I have a pen tube that simply turns out to be a mess. I can't really explain why. I think it's just that while working with CA glue, I opt to leave a mess in the tubes if I have the choice of that or getting it all over my fingers. Then it dries and has to be cleaned out. On really messy clean outs, the tools doesn't do so great. The single flute design just doesn't do the trick and I start missing my old quarter inch drill bit that I used to use before acquiring this tool. 
That old drill bit I had taken a sander to and had it so it just slipped into a seven millimeter tube. It done the job good. 
So I started thinking. Why couldn't I use my old drill bit on these extra messy situations? All I had to do was go pull it out of the drawer I had thrown it in and go back to using it. However, I'd also gotten a little spoiled having a comfortable handle on this tool. It is so much better than grabbing the drill bit with a pair of channel locks like I used to. 
So there was only one answer to this problem.








As much as I liked the oak burl handle on my other tool, I did not have another piece that was not too good, in my opinion, to be used as a tool handle. So while looking for a good piece of wood for a handle, I remembered a left over piece I had from butchering up a block of rose wood for bowls. It was a short piece with the grain running across it instead of the length of it. This tool will not be subjected to a lot of prying force though, so it would work well for this application and look nice too.








So now I have more options when it comes to cleaning out those tubes. 
.
Untill next time, happy turning!


----------



## WayneC

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens And Tools*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to make my son's karate teacher a nice pen. I was thinking about what to make it out of to set it apart. He seems like the type of guy, to me, who would appreciate something simple, yet different.
> I remembered that I had been wanting to turn a piece of bamboo that was given to me and thought it was quite fitting for a karate instructor.
> I presented him with this pen Wednesday night before the class started, and he really liked it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I done because it was a special request.
> It is a .45-70 shell casing done with deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since getting it, I have been cleaning tubes out with my nifty little tool I got from Penn State. It usually does a great job. However, every now and again, I have a pen tube that simply turns out to be a mess. I can't really explain why. I think it's just that while working with CA glue, I opt to leave a mess in the tubes if I have the choice of that or getting it all over my fingers. Then it dries and has to be cleaned out. On really messy clean outs, the tools doesn't do so great. The single flute design just doesn't do the trick and I start missing my old quarter inch drill bit that I used to use before acquiring this tool.
> That old drill bit I had taken a sander to and had it so it just slipped into a seven millimeter tube. It done the job good.
> So I started thinking. Why couldn't I use my old drill bit on these extra messy situations? All I had to do was go pull it out of the drawer I had thrown it in and go back to using it. However, I'd also gotten a little spoiled having a comfortable handle on this tool. It is so much better than grabbing the drill bit with a pair of channel locks like I used to.
> So there was only one answer to this problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As much as I liked the oak burl handle on my other tool, I did not have another piece that was not too good, in my opinion, to be used as a tool handle. So while looking for a good piece of wood for a handle, I remembered a left over piece I had from butchering up a block of rose wood for bowls. It was a short piece with the grain running across it instead of the length of it. This tool will not be subjected to a lot of prying force though, so it would work well for this application and look nice too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have more options when it comes to cleaning out those tubes.
> .
> Untill next time, happy turning!


Well done. Love the look of deer antler, hate the smell.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens And Tools*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to make my son's karate teacher a nice pen. I was thinking about what to make it out of to set it apart. He seems like the type of guy, to me, who would appreciate something simple, yet different.
> I remembered that I had been wanting to turn a piece of bamboo that was given to me and thought it was quite fitting for a karate instructor.
> I presented him with this pen Wednesday night before the class started, and he really liked it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I done because it was a special request.
> It is a .45-70 shell casing done with deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since getting it, I have been cleaning tubes out with my nifty little tool I got from Penn State. It usually does a great job. However, every now and again, I have a pen tube that simply turns out to be a mess. I can't really explain why. I think it's just that while working with CA glue, I opt to leave a mess in the tubes if I have the choice of that or getting it all over my fingers. Then it dries and has to be cleaned out. On really messy clean outs, the tools doesn't do so great. The single flute design just doesn't do the trick and I start missing my old quarter inch drill bit that I used to use before acquiring this tool.
> That old drill bit I had taken a sander to and had it so it just slipped into a seven millimeter tube. It done the job good.
> So I started thinking. Why couldn't I use my old drill bit on these extra messy situations? All I had to do was go pull it out of the drawer I had thrown it in and go back to using it. However, I'd also gotten a little spoiled having a comfortable handle on this tool. It is so much better than grabbing the drill bit with a pair of channel locks like I used to.
> So there was only one answer to this problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As much as I liked the oak burl handle on my other tool, I did not have another piece that was not too good, in my opinion, to be used as a tool handle. So while looking for a good piece of wood for a handle, I remembered a left over piece I had from butchering up a block of rose wood for bowls. It was a short piece with the grain running across it instead of the length of it. This tool will not be subjected to a lot of prying force though, so it would work well for this application and look nice too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have more options when it comes to cleaning out those tubes.
> .
> Untill next time, happy turning!


The bamboo pen is surely a fitting gift.
What kind of bamboo is it? plyboo? flooring?

Rifle deer season is starting here in Vermont. I'm thinking there are a lot of hunters that would love the antler bullet pen!

Great job on the pen tube reaming tool. Gotta love good looking tools, especially when you made them yourself.

Please, carry on…


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens And Tools*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to make my son's karate teacher a nice pen. I was thinking about what to make it out of to set it apart. He seems like the type of guy, to me, who would appreciate something simple, yet different.
> I remembered that I had been wanting to turn a piece of bamboo that was given to me and thought it was quite fitting for a karate instructor.
> I presented him with this pen Wednesday night before the class started, and he really liked it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I done because it was a special request.
> It is a .45-70 shell casing done with deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since getting it, I have been cleaning tubes out with my nifty little tool I got from Penn State. It usually does a great job. However, every now and again, I have a pen tube that simply turns out to be a mess. I can't really explain why. I think it's just that while working with CA glue, I opt to leave a mess in the tubes if I have the choice of that or getting it all over my fingers. Then it dries and has to be cleaned out. On really messy clean outs, the tools doesn't do so great. The single flute design just doesn't do the trick and I start missing my old quarter inch drill bit that I used to use before acquiring this tool.
> That old drill bit I had taken a sander to and had it so it just slipped into a seven millimeter tube. It done the job good.
> So I started thinking. Why couldn't I use my old drill bit on these extra messy situations? All I had to do was go pull it out of the drawer I had thrown it in and go back to using it. However, I'd also gotten a little spoiled having a comfortable handle on this tool. It is so much better than grabbing the drill bit with a pair of channel locks like I used to.
> So there was only one answer to this problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As much as I liked the oak burl handle on my other tool, I did not have another piece that was not too good, in my opinion, to be used as a tool handle. So while looking for a good piece of wood for a handle, I remembered a left over piece I had from butchering up a block of rose wood for bowls. It was a short piece with the grain running across it instead of the length of it. This tool will not be subjected to a lot of prying force though, so it would work well for this application and look nice too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have more options when it comes to cleaning out those tubes.
> .
> Untill next time, happy turning!


Those are way nice.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens And Tools*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to make my son's karate teacher a nice pen. I was thinking about what to make it out of to set it apart. He seems like the type of guy, to me, who would appreciate something simple, yet different.
> I remembered that I had been wanting to turn a piece of bamboo that was given to me and thought it was quite fitting for a karate instructor.
> I presented him with this pen Wednesday night before the class started, and he really liked it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I done because it was a special request.
> It is a .45-70 shell casing done with deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since getting it, I have been cleaning tubes out with my nifty little tool I got from Penn State. It usually does a great job. However, every now and again, I have a pen tube that simply turns out to be a mess. I can't really explain why. I think it's just that while working with CA glue, I opt to leave a mess in the tubes if I have the choice of that or getting it all over my fingers. Then it dries and has to be cleaned out. On really messy clean outs, the tools doesn't do so great. The single flute design just doesn't do the trick and I start missing my old quarter inch drill bit that I used to use before acquiring this tool.
> That old drill bit I had taken a sander to and had it so it just slipped into a seven millimeter tube. It done the job good.
> So I started thinking. Why couldn't I use my old drill bit on these extra messy situations? All I had to do was go pull it out of the drawer I had thrown it in and go back to using it. However, I'd also gotten a little spoiled having a comfortable handle on this tool. It is so much better than grabbing the drill bit with a pair of channel locks like I used to.
> So there was only one answer to this problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As much as I liked the oak burl handle on my other tool, I did not have another piece that was not too good, in my opinion, to be used as a tool handle. So while looking for a good piece of wood for a handle, I remembered a left over piece I had from butchering up a block of rose wood for bowls. It was a short piece with the grain running across it instead of the length of it. This tool will not be subjected to a lot of prying force though, so it would work well for this application and look nice too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have more options when it comes to cleaning out those tubes.
> .
> Untill next time, happy turning!


Thank you all.

Randy, the bamboo was a gift from a fellow Lumberjock. I'm not sure, but it looks like a piece of bamboo flooring.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens And Tools*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to make my son's karate teacher a nice pen. I was thinking about what to make it out of to set it apart. He seems like the type of guy, to me, who would appreciate something simple, yet different.
> I remembered that I had been wanting to turn a piece of bamboo that was given to me and thought it was quite fitting for a karate instructor.
> I presented him with this pen Wednesday night before the class started, and he really liked it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I done because it was a special request.
> It is a .45-70 shell casing done with deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since getting it, I have been cleaning tubes out with my nifty little tool I got from Penn State. It usually does a great job. However, every now and again, I have a pen tube that simply turns out to be a mess. I can't really explain why. I think it's just that while working with CA glue, I opt to leave a mess in the tubes if I have the choice of that or getting it all over my fingers. Then it dries and has to be cleaned out. On really messy clean outs, the tools doesn't do so great. The single flute design just doesn't do the trick and I start missing my old quarter inch drill bit that I used to use before acquiring this tool.
> That old drill bit I had taken a sander to and had it so it just slipped into a seven millimeter tube. It done the job good.
> So I started thinking. Why couldn't I use my old drill bit on these extra messy situations? All I had to do was go pull it out of the drawer I had thrown it in and go back to using it. However, I'd also gotten a little spoiled having a comfortable handle on this tool. It is so much better than grabbing the drill bit with a pair of channel locks like I used to.
> So there was only one answer to this problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As much as I liked the oak burl handle on my other tool, I did not have another piece that was not too good, in my opinion, to be used as a tool handle. So while looking for a good piece of wood for a handle, I remembered a left over piece I had from butchering up a block of rose wood for bowls. It was a short piece with the grain running across it instead of the length of it. This tool will not be subjected to a lot of prying force though, so it would work well for this application and look nice too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have more options when it comes to cleaning out those tubes.
> .
> Untill next time, happy turning!


Looks like you are still having fun William.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens And Tools*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to make my son's karate teacher a nice pen. I was thinking about what to make it out of to set it apart. He seems like the type of guy, to me, who would appreciate something simple, yet different.
> I remembered that I had been wanting to turn a piece of bamboo that was given to me and thought it was quite fitting for a karate instructor.
> I presented him with this pen Wednesday night before the class started, and he really liked it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one I done because it was a special request.
> It is a .45-70 shell casing done with deer antler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since getting it, I have been cleaning tubes out with my nifty little tool I got from Penn State. It usually does a great job. However, every now and again, I have a pen tube that simply turns out to be a mess. I can't really explain why. I think it's just that while working with CA glue, I opt to leave a mess in the tubes if I have the choice of that or getting it all over my fingers. Then it dries and has to be cleaned out. On really messy clean outs, the tools doesn't do so great. The single flute design just doesn't do the trick and I start missing my old quarter inch drill bit that I used to use before acquiring this tool.
> That old drill bit I had taken a sander to and had it so it just slipped into a seven millimeter tube. It done the job good.
> So I started thinking. Why couldn't I use my old drill bit on these extra messy situations? All I had to do was go pull it out of the drawer I had thrown it in and go back to using it. However, I'd also gotten a little spoiled having a comfortable handle on this tool. It is so much better than grabbing the drill bit with a pair of channel locks like I used to.
> So there was only one answer to this problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As much as I liked the oak burl handle on my other tool, I did not have another piece that was not too good, in my opinion, to be used as a tool handle. So while looking for a good piece of wood for a handle, I remembered a left over piece I had from butchering up a block of rose wood for bowls. It was a short piece with the grain running across it instead of the length of it. This tool will not be subjected to a lot of prying force though, so it would work well for this application and look nice too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have more options when it comes to cleaning out those tubes.
> .
> Untill next time, happy turning!


Trying to Dave.
You have messed up buying as lathe though.
This stuff is too addicting.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Fixer*









I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.








Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.








As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......








I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.








So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.








So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl. 








Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.








The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.








After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it. 








I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.








Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.








If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock. 
No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday. 
No?
Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.








And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice? 
This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
.
So what else could I tear up and fix?








This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.








HOLY CRAP!!!
Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.








Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off. 
So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.








The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.








Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler. 
.
So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
Till next time, happy turning!








Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago. 
For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt. 
Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


----------



## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


When things fall to pieces, you keep going! Nice pens and bowl. Any thoughts I have of getting a lathe are cured by your stories of wooden missiles shooting through the shop.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Perseverance and a positive attitude saved the day!
A blow out, a little realignment and you are good to go!!
Glad you weren't hurt!!!

Nice turnings there.
Please give your son my congratulations, on his achievement!!!

Carry on…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Sandra, from what I understand, most people do not have as many wooden projectiles flying in their shops as I do. I have the worst luck, or I take bigger chances, or I let my inexperience get the better of me sometimes. You can pick which one of those excuses you're willing to except. Thank you for your comment.
Randy, thank you. 
I will let my son know what you said.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Glad it was only your shorts that got messed up and not you! I remember while sanding a bowl some time ago, it split apart on me much the same way yours did. I came to the conclusion that it was the heat that did it from the sanding. Some woods do not take excessive heat rapidly well and will prone to crack/break. Red cedar is notorious for that! It is a beautiful wood but I dislike working with it! Hope knowing heat could have been the cause, will make you more aware and alert for possibilities of it happening in the future.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Thanks for the advice Bearpie.
I am always picking up little lessons here and there as I go. I have learned that I have to be quite aware of how thin I go with some woods, and cypress and cedar seem to really be in that category. I don't think I'm even going to attempt another cedar bowl anytime soon. 
Actually, I've been thinking of taking another shot at segmented bowls like you and I talked about when you visited. To be honest though, the only thing that has stopped me is that lately it has been hard on me standing in one spot long. I've been using my stool a lot while turning. So standing at the table saw cutting all those little pieces just hasn't appealed to me lately. As soon as I can get to it though, I think it has to be safer than the ones I've been doing.
I still have one more piece of that rose wood for a bowl as well. I'm trying to think of something different than what I've been doing though for it. It may be a long while before I have wood large enough in something that is that beautiful. So I want to make the best of that piece.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Nice finished projects. Glad to hear no one was injured. I had a flying projectile in my shop about an hour ago, but it was still being prepped for the lathe and went flying off of my miter saw. Still not sure where my hold down stick went that I was using… Called it a night shortly after that.

Congrats to your son my daughter gets her 2nd belt this week.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Yes chris, those unexpected flying objects sure can make you call it an early day, or at least decide to sit for a long break.

You said second belt, what color?
There is this girl that tested later in the day after my son. She is thirteen years old, only been in the class for two and half years, and is fixing to get her black belt. The girl is good. Her grandmother though told me that she eats, sleeps, and breathes karate. She is now my example to my son when he doesn't want to practice at home. Karate is all about practice, practice, practice. 
I wish I knew more about karate so I could help my son more. Unfortunately, the most I know about karate is that Bruce Lee made karate movies.


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


William,
Sorry to read of all the troubles you've encountered but glad to know there were no serious injuries and most things could be fixed.

Congrats to your son on his advancement to a Yellow Belt!


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Some guys just sell their broken bowls as art William. Congrats on your son's yellow belt. It takes good self discipline to advance.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Wow, those centers were really off. Those 50cals look awesome, just like the rest o your projects.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Thank you all very much.

Mike sent me a very good private message. 
Mike, when I make it back to my laptop tonight, is it alright if I copy and paste it here so other might offer suggestions if they have any?


----------



## StumpyNubs

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Nice to see a fellow Harbor Freight turner in action! Best deal in it's class, hands down!

I was turning a 16" disc on mine once. It was going to be a wheel for a band saw. The head was obviously turned to the side and I had the disc attached with a small flat face plate. It came loose, flew straight down to the floor and sped toward me, right up bare leg much faster than I could move. I still have the scar. I tell people it was from a great white attack. Chicks dig it.


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


William, Why did you start off with so much wood if you wanted a short bowl???


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Thanks guys.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


You didn't mess up. On the fly design changes are a fact of life when turning. The result is very, very nice. Thanks Bearpie! I never thought about heat affecting the wood. Are there other woods that are likely to have the same problem?

I think you're scaring the other children with your bowl adventures but they're extremely helpful to understand what could go wrong. I like to stay small to avoid heart failure resulting from massive projectiles. Mind you, when I have flyers now, I'm more concerned about what it hit just in case the wood got damaged beyond saving. Thanks for the alignment reminder, I haven't checked it and it's something that you should do regularly.

The box elder turned out really well. I've had promising pieces of wood that ended up with butt ugly warty knots that I didn't know what to do with.

I really like the first bullet pen. It's kind of pretty in a bullet-y sort of way-I don't know how to explain it other than I really like it.

Congratulations to your son on his yellow belt.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Thank you doe.

Next time you have those ugly knots, try to save it. Sometimes it winds up looking good. Then again, I can definitely see how some knots could wind up just being ugly knots. 
I can't remember where I've read about it, but the idea isn't entirely my own. If you have a loose knot, stop the lathe. Use water thin CA glue. Put just a drop at a time and allow it to penetrate down into and around the knot. Allow each drop a few seconds to dry. Keep doing this until you build it up to the surface. If there is open areas around the knot like the one one that pen, fill it with dust, preferably dust from the same wood. Use a few drops of the glue to make sure the knot is secure. Then fill the void with very if e saw dust. Pack it in as tight as it will stay. Then soak the saw dust a drop at a time just like you would just a knot. 
When all this is done, go have a cup of coffee or three and allow it all to dry good before turning.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Thanks for the advice about knots; that's good to know. Actually, having coffee is really good advice as well. I can be impatient waiting for glue to dry, with disastrous results.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Doe, I always have coffee on in my shop so I can stop and have coffee and a cigarette. I do not by any means recommend the cigarette habit though.
I am impatient with glue as well. The reason I bring this up is that, once upon a time, I had a habit of always trying to use accelerator on CA glue to speed up the process. I figured out through trial and error that using the accelerator causes the glue to dry almost instantly. However, it also makes it more brittle. That brittle glue can and will shoot off the piece your turning, taking anything that was adhered to it. Also, the accelerator compounds an effect I call ghosting on your work. It's this ugly white residue that just does not seem to go away. So I have learned that it is best to wait for the CA glue to dry. Hey, it dries a lot quicker than regular wood glue. I haven't found a coffee pot big enough that will allow me to patiently wait on Titebond.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Thats it I am forging you some armor.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Fixer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called today's post "Fixer" because the last few days it seems I am constantly having to fix something. So the title seemed fitting.
> Everyone seemed to like the cypress flower pot I made a while back, so I decided to try making a cypress bowl. I got the outside turned fine with the tail stock supporting it. Soon after I switched to hollowing out the inside though, the double sided tape I was using to hold on a waste block with a tenon cut into it to fit my chuck gave way and the bowl took flight. So I decided to use my bowl press to glue the waste block on before continuing. I let it set over night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I had to retrue the outside the next day and then the hollowing went along without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, this one was going to require a lot of sanding. My powerless sanding tool I made a while back was working wonderfully, then….......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the thin sides seemed a tad brittle to me. I didn't think they were that brittle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to a shorter bowl and went at it again.
> Before I could even get back to sanding though, well, you see what happened before I could even get back to sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I turned it down to an even shorter bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, after sanding, I decided I had better snap another photo before something else went wrong, like maybe while turning the waste block off the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waste block removal happened without incident. Well, almost.
> I noticed a crack on the sides while I was checking my progress at one point. Once you get past a certain point of no return though, all you can do is finish the waste block removal and then take it off the lathe to see what you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I had been through with this bowl, I really did not want to scrap it. So I used CA glue to fix the crack in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out ok. I can't gripe about all the wasted material making this tall bowl short. I try to look at things like this as opportunities to hone my skills.
> That's what I tell people anyway. Never admit that you just messed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, ever since Ms. Clause sent my the gift package last week, I've been looking at one of the pieces of mystery wood that was included. If I was correct it was going to be box elder burl. I used elder burl on the Civil War pen a while back and thought it was one of the most beautiful materials I've ever turned. So I was anxious to turn this to see what I got.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you read my blog, you know I always refer to burls as like unwrapping presents. You never know what surprises await underneath. Sometimes you are greeted with the most fabulous gift a fella could ask for. Well, sometimes you are greeted with a box of rock.
> No seriously. You know you have an Uncle Joe who lost his pet rock collection. In his demented state of mind, he has mistakenly wrapped it up and gave it to you for your birthday about three and a half months after your birthday.
> No?
> Ok. Anyway, the beautiful wood, which did turn out to be box elder burl as I suspected by the way, revealed a knot about halfway into it. It wasn't one of those pretty, interesting knots. It was one of those knots that, if I'd continued, would have flown out and left a huge hole that would have been near impossible to fill with my usual slurry method.
> So what to do? Well since the CA glue had worked for my bowl repair so well, I decided to go back to the well again. I really wanted to save this blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think it worked out real well. Who says you can't turn a gift of a box of rocks into something nice?
> This is a .50 Cal. pen with box elder burl, and a, now pretty and interesting, knot in it.
> .
> So what else could I tear up and fix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hunk of cedar I had back in the corner of the shop. Actually it is half of a split bowl that I tried turning some time back. I decided to try to turn it into one of those interesting looking things I seen somewhere on the internet some time ago. I would tell you what it is called or where I seen it, but unfortunately, I can't remember either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!!
> Things were going great. I was having fun. The wood was cooperating fine, and I was sure I could complete this project.
> Then a hunk off one side decided it wanted to go bye-bye. Luckily, it flew away from me. However, this large hunk all of a sudden leaving the party threw the rest of it out of balance at high speed. Well, let's just say that I'm not sure those pants are going to ever come clean again.
> I had not idea that a three hundred pound lathe could hop like that.
> I decided to not try fixing this one. This same hunk of wood has caused massive failures on the lathe twice now. I haven't been hurt, but I do not wish to test that three strike rule thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, something in the back of my head told me to check the alignment on my lathe after all the excitement died down, my heart rate returned to normal, and I smoked as cigarette or ten to calm my nerves.
> I'm glad I did. This is the disadvantage to having a lathe with a rotating head. Something like that out of balance hopping dance it was doing earlier throws things off.
> So I felt it was a good time to do a lathe tune up. I cleaned it up, realigned everything, oiled everything, and generally made sure it was ready to safely go again.
> Then it was time to climb back on the horse and go again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The deer antler pens, especially the .45-70 pens I've made before, seem popular. So I decided to make one for my display case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, since Ms. Clause had sent me a few .50 Cal. pen kits, I decided that, since people seem to like the bullet and deer antler combination, I should make a .50 Cal. pen with deer antler.
> .
> So, the lathe is back in fighting shape. We'll just have to see what I can mess up next. Remember though, it's not mistakes, it's learning opportunities.
> Till next time, happy turning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go, you may remember I made a bamboo pen for my kid's karate instructor a few days ago.
> For my readers that always ask about my family, my son done his rank test yesterday. He passed and is now a yellow belt.
> Oh, he's the little fella on the left in this photo.


Thanks Dave, but I have a hard head. I'll be alright.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Turn A Turner*

Turn a turner. 
I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.








I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.








So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top. 
This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on. 
The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.








I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action. 
I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.









This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right. 
So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
Sixty degrees?
Fifty degrees?
Forty degrees?
Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source. 
So what is right?








The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle. 
Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right. 
The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?








Well there was but one way to find out. 
This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.








I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut. 
Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.








This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress. 








It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck. 
So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you." 
With that said,
Till next time friends, happy turning!


----------



## StumpyNubs

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


I vote for "Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon" on the bowl gouge, because chubby fellas like bacon.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


I believe that "sinker" refers to the fact that the wood was recovered from a river or lake.

While I was researching lathe tool sharpening, I came to the conclusion that "whatever works for you" is the correct grind.

Glad you have "honed" in on a better grind.

Carry on….


----------



## mcgyver

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


sinker sypress is lumber cut from logs that sank in a river lake or other body of water. it is usually the heart wood only and can be hundreds of years old most of it is logs that sank while they were in transit to the mill. they where usualy floated there as lashed together rafts. as paul harvey would say now you know the rest of the storey.


----------



## phtaylor36

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


Ditto on the bacon, that sounds about right…


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


William, you need to watch "Ax Men"....you can probably catch them on the net…..The swamp man Shelby Stanga recovers the sinker Cypress from the bayou…...cool stuff man….


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


Thank you all.
Especially thanks for the lesson on what sinker cypress is.
I honestly had no idea since all the cypress trees I've ever seen myself have been along bodies of water. Several of my favorite fishing holes are so good because of the cypress knees that the fish like to bed around.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!












This is the angle that I like best for turning bowls. In fact I use it for almost everything. You can vary it a bit either way but do not make it much longer as it will "chatter" more and dull quicker. A less pronounced bevel will give you strength and be less likely to catch on the end grain on the bottom of the bowls.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


Thank you Erwin. I am going to save that photo to compare it to my own gouges if I change the angle again.


----------



## ssnvet

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


Looking good William!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


Thanks Matt.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


William its over the top


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


Looks great. I love the cypress too.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


Thank you eddie and Mike.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


Some fine curls comin off those turnings William


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


Thanks roger. 
Let's just hope I have a better handle on this and can cut down on the flying projectiles.


----------



## mcgyver

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


william nice work again and you are welcome on the lesson i live in louisiana and see it regularly. i noticed the tip on your gouge was blue to black in color. make shure you keep them cool when grinding or you will change the temper of the gouge. light straw color to dark straw is what you want for wood cutting tools any darker and they will not hold an edge long. have fun you can grind your own profiles.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


Thanks McGyver. 
Believe it not, that gouge is just dirty. I have a bad habit of never cleaning anything until I absolutely need to. That particular gouge came from penn state with some waxy gunk all over it. I sharpened it and started using it. The waxy stuff near the tip turned dark from dirt sticking to it and it is still that way. I imagine with some good scrubbing it would come clean, but I don't wanna do it as long as it isn't hurting the tool performance.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


That is a very elegant top and the base is a very nice addition.

Your comparison is downright stunning. Thanks for your analysis, I've always been irritated that there didn't seem to be a common rule. Now I know for sure that there isn't one and I just need to play with it. I feel like sharpening now . . .

Thanks Erwin, your advice is very helpful and good to know


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


Thank you doe.

I'm learning more and more as time goes on not to be afraid to experiment with techniques, such as sharpening angles. Little changes can make a world of difference. However, I've also learned to use an angle gauge and make notes. It makes it easier to find an angle again if it works for you.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Turn A Turner*
> 
> Turn a turner.
> I just couldn't help that corny play with words. I turned a spinning top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I searched high and low for a suitable photo of what appears in my mind when I think of a spinning top. Somewhere buried deep in my memory is a metal spinning top very similar to the one above. It was painted up like an alien space ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that may explain why I chose the shape I did for my first turned spinning top.
> This was one of the kits that Ms. Clause sent me. I chose a piece of a rosewood block that I had cut off to make a bowl a while back. That left me with just enough to drill a hole in to make a little stand for it to set on.
> The instructions give several good ideas for shapes of a top. I'd like to order some more of these kits and try a few of them. For the first one though, I had to go back to what my memory told me a top should look like. I wasn't sure how it would work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it does pretty good. With a good pull, it spins about two minutes before toppling over. This was plenty enough time to get a good photo of it in action.
> I enjoyed this project and definitely hope to get the chance to do some more of them in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bowl photo you seen a couple of days ago. It is the one I had all the problems with. Well after posting that blog, I got a couple of emails from some good friends who know more about turning than I do. It was apparent to them from that blog post that something was very wrong. Somewhere, somehow, my technique was off to a point that they were a little concerned about me and wanted to offer suggestions.
> So I asked questions to try and figure out what was going on here. I seemed to be doing alright, besides a few high speed projectiles that seem to occur in my shop for unknown reasons. Next, I looked over a couple of books I have on techniques.
> I couldn't figure it out. However, there was one area that always bugs me, my tools. I have read countless opinions and seen even more countless out of control arguments about the correct sharpening angle for this tool or that one. For my spindle tools, I am perfectly satisfied. For bowls though, I was going good, but still wasn't satisfied that it was right.
> So back to square one. What is the correct angle for a bowl gouge?
> Sixty degrees?
> Fifty degrees?
> Forty degrees?
> Thirty eight and three sixty eighths degree with a side of bacon?
> Seriously, if you get online and try to find an agreement on this question, you'll find it, until you look at a different source.
> So what is right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I knew for sure was that it was time to try something new. I done a search online for the instruction sheet for several different commercially available sharpening jigs. After looking at these, it seemed that it seemed to be a general consensus with these jigs that a bowl gouge should be ground at about a forty degree angle.
> Above, on the left, is one of my gouges before regrinding them. As I said, it was getting the job done well, but something just wasn't right.
> The one on the right is the new grind angle. I wouldn't say it is exact, but is very close to forty degrees. The question is, or was, would this change in grind angles make a difference for the better? Or worse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well there was but one way to find out.
> This is a hunk of wood off the same block as the bowl you seen in the earlier photo. After all, I wanted to compare apples to apples here, not apples to apple sauce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it made a huge difference. It seems that less of an angle causes less tear out, and a much more controlled cut.
> Also, in this photo, on the left is shavings from before the regrind. It actually looks more like course saw dust than shavings. On the right is the shavings from the test bowl with the new grind angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is cypress. I noticed the other day that I am seeing sypress a lot lately called Lousiana Sinker Cypress. I'm not sure what that means. This I know came from Mississippi though and it floats. So I guess this is Mississippi Floater Cypress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out like cutting butter with a hot knife. I actually wanted to go a tad thinner. The bowl as you see it is just under a quarter inch thick. I started to see hairline cracks when I stopped the lathe to check the progress though, and decided I had better not push my luck.
> So what angle do you grind a bowl gouge? I have no idea. I'm going to stick with this grind for a while and see how it works out for me. It looks very promising. If it turns out to be a problem though, I think I will change it on the word of the, I believe, best advice I have heard so far. A man on another blog told me once about sharpening tools, "If what works for other people don't work for you, change it until it does work for you."
> With that said,
> Till next time friends, happy turning!


Good point about the angle gauge and notes. I'll do that.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Pens For Sale*









These little boxes I make are fine for presenting a pen as a gift. In my shop I have a large display case that hold sixty pens. It is fine for showing them to people who visit my shop. The problem is I need a better way to show my pens away from the shop. I hate to admit it, but my pen sales have been dismal at best. If I am ever to sell more, I desperately need a way to take a few with me when I go to town and display them nicely. 
I looked at various options. There are some real nice commercially available display cases and boxes. I always prefer making something myself though instead of using something that anyone can order and have.








So this is what I came up with. I routes slots in a slab of sycamore for the pens to set into. Then I wrapped that with a sapelle casing with slots for a piece of plexi-glass to fit into. Then I added a sapelle handle to the top to make it comfortable to carry. 








The plexi-glass simply slides up to put pens in, or take them out.








Here is what it looks like loaded with pens.
I will start carrying this with me when I can. Hopefully it will improve my pen sales. If not, I am going to be forced to start writing a novel just to make a reason for having so many ink pens.








I made an extra case. I have a good friend that is also showing my pens around. Actually, that friend has sold more of my pens than I have. I guess I'm a better wood worker than I am a salesman. 
.
The rest of today's post consists of pens I have turned the last couple of days.








Ms. Clause's care package that she sent had a piece of red palm in it. I have turned black palm before and really wanted to see the difference in appearance of the two. It was just a short piece, but that is all that is needed for a .50 Cal. pen.








This one, the pen kit and the wood, is also from that same package. 
It is a Polaris kit with crepe myrtle for the wood.








Then it was time to dive into some kits that I ordered recently from Penn State.
No, it is not a broken pen. This is called a flip stylus pen.








Put the insert in one way and it is a pen.








Take it out and flip it over and it is a stylus. 
I used a piece of olive wood for this pen. It was also in the Clause care package. I had never turned olive wood before and wanted to see how it looked. I think it went good with the gold and black hardware for this pen.








No, you are not seeing double. I had the kits from the care package to make a pen and pencil. Both were designer kits with the same brushed satin finish, so I decided to make it as matching set. This was something I had never done.
This set took a lot longer than I anticipated. First, I had done the designer kits before that do not require a tenon. These were not those kits. These you have to cut a tenon for the center band to fit onto. Then, when you slip it on, you have to have the upper barrel the proper diameter for it all to flow as one. What made this a tad harder than it should be was the fact that I did not have bushings for it. I could have waited until I place another order to Penn State and got the right bushings. However, I did not think of all this until I had already glued the brass tubes into the blanks and was ready to turn. 
Oh well. A good set of dial calipers took some careful measuring, and often, but I got the job done without the bushings. 
For the wood, each pen is maple with two rings of cherry and one opposing ring of walnut. 
.
Until next time my friends, happy turning.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens For Sale*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These little boxes I make are fine for presenting a pen as a gift. In my shop I have a large display case that hold sixty pens. It is fine for showing them to people who visit my shop. The problem is I need a better way to show my pens away from the shop. I hate to admit it, but my pen sales have been dismal at best. If I am ever to sell more, I desperately need a way to take a few with me when I go to town and display them nicely.
> I looked at various options. There are some real nice commercially available display cases and boxes. I always prefer making something myself though instead of using something that anyone can order and have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is what I came up with. I routes slots in a slab of sycamore for the pens to set into. Then I wrapped that with a sapelle casing with slots for a piece of plexi-glass to fit into. Then I added a sapelle handle to the top to make it comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plexi-glass simply slides up to put pens in, or take them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like loaded with pens.
> I will start carrying this with me when I can. Hopefully it will improve my pen sales. If not, I am going to be forced to start writing a novel just to make a reason for having so many ink pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made an extra case. I have a good friend that is also showing my pens around. Actually, that friend has sold more of my pens than I have. I guess I'm a better wood worker than I am a salesman.
> .
> The rest of today's post consists of pens I have turned the last couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ms. Clause's care package that she sent had a piece of red palm in it. I have turned black palm before and really wanted to see the difference in appearance of the two. It was just a short piece, but that is all that is needed for a .50 Cal. pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one, the pen kit and the wood, is also from that same package.
> It is a Polaris kit with crepe myrtle for the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to dive into some kits that I ordered recently from Penn State.
> No, it is not a broken pen. This is called a flip stylus pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the insert in one way and it is a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take it out and flip it over and it is a stylus.
> I used a piece of olive wood for this pen. It was also in the Clause care package. I had never turned olive wood before and wanted to see how it looked. I think it went good with the gold and black hardware for this pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, you are not seeing double. I had the kits from the care package to make a pen and pencil. Both were designer kits with the same brushed satin finish, so I decided to make it as matching set. This was something I had never done.
> This set took a lot longer than I anticipated. First, I had done the designer kits before that do not require a tenon. These were not those kits. These you have to cut a tenon for the center band to fit onto. Then, when you slip it on, you have to have the upper barrel the proper diameter for it all to flow as one. What made this a tad harder than it should be was the fact that I did not have bushings for it. I could have waited until I place another order to Penn State and got the right bushings. However, I did not think of all this until I had already glued the brass tubes into the blanks and was ready to turn.
> Oh well. A good set of dial calipers took some careful measuring, and often, but I got the job done without the bushings.
> For the wood, each pen is maple with two rings of cherry and one opposing ring of walnut.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning.


I like your "Pens-To-Go" cases.
An artist has a portfolio…
A pen artist needs a penfolio!!!

Keep up the good work!


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens For Sale*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These little boxes I make are fine for presenting a pen as a gift. In my shop I have a large display case that hold sixty pens. It is fine for showing them to people who visit my shop. The problem is I need a better way to show my pens away from the shop. I hate to admit it, but my pen sales have been dismal at best. If I am ever to sell more, I desperately need a way to take a few with me when I go to town and display them nicely.
> I looked at various options. There are some real nice commercially available display cases and boxes. I always prefer making something myself though instead of using something that anyone can order and have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is what I came up with. I routes slots in a slab of sycamore for the pens to set into. Then I wrapped that with a sapelle casing with slots for a piece of plexi-glass to fit into. Then I added a sapelle handle to the top to make it comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plexi-glass simply slides up to put pens in, or take them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like loaded with pens.
> I will start carrying this with me when I can. Hopefully it will improve my pen sales. If not, I am going to be forced to start writing a novel just to make a reason for having so many ink pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made an extra case. I have a good friend that is also showing my pens around. Actually, that friend has sold more of my pens than I have. I guess I'm a better wood worker than I am a salesman.
> .
> The rest of today's post consists of pens I have turned the last couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ms. Clause's care package that she sent had a piece of red palm in it. I have turned black palm before and really wanted to see the difference in appearance of the two. It was just a short piece, but that is all that is needed for a .50 Cal. pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one, the pen kit and the wood, is also from that same package.
> It is a Polaris kit with crepe myrtle for the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to dive into some kits that I ordered recently from Penn State.
> No, it is not a broken pen. This is called a flip stylus pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the insert in one way and it is a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take it out and flip it over and it is a stylus.
> I used a piece of olive wood for this pen. It was also in the Clause care package. I had never turned olive wood before and wanted to see how it looked. I think it went good with the gold and black hardware for this pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, you are not seeing double. I had the kits from the care package to make a pen and pencil. Both were designer kits with the same brushed satin finish, so I decided to make it as matching set. This was something I had never done.
> This set took a lot longer than I anticipated. First, I had done the designer kits before that do not require a tenon. These were not those kits. These you have to cut a tenon for the center band to fit onto. Then, when you slip it on, you have to have the upper barrel the proper diameter for it all to flow as one. What made this a tad harder than it should be was the fact that I did not have bushings for it. I could have waited until I place another order to Penn State and got the right bushings. However, I did not think of all this until I had already glued the brass tubes into the blanks and was ready to turn.
> Oh well. A good set of dial calipers took some careful measuring, and often, but I got the job done without the bushings.
> For the wood, each pen is maple with two rings of cherry and one opposing ring of walnut.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning.


I like your display cases. Compact and very nice looking. I do think it would be a good idea to have some writing with them to explain that they are handcrafted wooden pens including the price(s).


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens For Sale*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These little boxes I make are fine for presenting a pen as a gift. In my shop I have a large display case that hold sixty pens. It is fine for showing them to people who visit my shop. The problem is I need a better way to show my pens away from the shop. I hate to admit it, but my pen sales have been dismal at best. If I am ever to sell more, I desperately need a way to take a few with me when I go to town and display them nicely.
> I looked at various options. There are some real nice commercially available display cases and boxes. I always prefer making something myself though instead of using something that anyone can order and have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is what I came up with. I routes slots in a slab of sycamore for the pens to set into. Then I wrapped that with a sapelle casing with slots for a piece of plexi-glass to fit into. Then I added a sapelle handle to the top to make it comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plexi-glass simply slides up to put pens in, or take them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like loaded with pens.
> I will start carrying this with me when I can. Hopefully it will improve my pen sales. If not, I am going to be forced to start writing a novel just to make a reason for having so many ink pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made an extra case. I have a good friend that is also showing my pens around. Actually, that friend has sold more of my pens than I have. I guess I'm a better wood worker than I am a salesman.
> .
> The rest of today's post consists of pens I have turned the last couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ms. Clause's care package that she sent had a piece of red palm in it. I have turned black palm before and really wanted to see the difference in appearance of the two. It was just a short piece, but that is all that is needed for a .50 Cal. pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one, the pen kit and the wood, is also from that same package.
> It is a Polaris kit with crepe myrtle for the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to dive into some kits that I ordered recently from Penn State.
> No, it is not a broken pen. This is called a flip stylus pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the insert in one way and it is a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take it out and flip it over and it is a stylus.
> I used a piece of olive wood for this pen. It was also in the Clause care package. I had never turned olive wood before and wanted to see how it looked. I think it went good with the gold and black hardware for this pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, you are not seeing double. I had the kits from the care package to make a pen and pencil. Both were designer kits with the same brushed satin finish, so I decided to make it as matching set. This was something I had never done.
> This set took a lot longer than I anticipated. First, I had done the designer kits before that do not require a tenon. These were not those kits. These you have to cut a tenon for the center band to fit onto. Then, when you slip it on, you have to have the upper barrel the proper diameter for it all to flow as one. What made this a tad harder than it should be was the fact that I did not have bushings for it. I could have waited until I place another order to Penn State and got the right bushings. However, I did not think of all this until I had already glued the brass tubes into the blanks and was ready to turn.
> Oh well. A good set of dial calipers took some careful measuring, and often, but I got the job done without the bushings.
> For the wood, each pen is maple with two rings of cherry and one opposing ring of walnut.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning.


Thank you both for the comments and the advice.


----------



## luv2learn

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens For Sale*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These little boxes I make are fine for presenting a pen as a gift. In my shop I have a large display case that hold sixty pens. It is fine for showing them to people who visit my shop. The problem is I need a better way to show my pens away from the shop. I hate to admit it, but my pen sales have been dismal at best. If I am ever to sell more, I desperately need a way to take a few with me when I go to town and display them nicely.
> I looked at various options. There are some real nice commercially available display cases and boxes. I always prefer making something myself though instead of using something that anyone can order and have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is what I came up with. I routes slots in a slab of sycamore for the pens to set into. Then I wrapped that with a sapelle casing with slots for a piece of plexi-glass to fit into. Then I added a sapelle handle to the top to make it comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plexi-glass simply slides up to put pens in, or take them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like loaded with pens.
> I will start carrying this with me when I can. Hopefully it will improve my pen sales. If not, I am going to be forced to start writing a novel just to make a reason for having so many ink pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made an extra case. I have a good friend that is also showing my pens around. Actually, that friend has sold more of my pens than I have. I guess I'm a better wood worker than I am a salesman.
> .
> The rest of today's post consists of pens I have turned the last couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ms. Clause's care package that she sent had a piece of red palm in it. I have turned black palm before and really wanted to see the difference in appearance of the two. It was just a short piece, but that is all that is needed for a .50 Cal. pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one, the pen kit and the wood, is also from that same package.
> It is a Polaris kit with crepe myrtle for the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to dive into some kits that I ordered recently from Penn State.
> No, it is not a broken pen. This is called a flip stylus pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the insert in one way and it is a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take it out and flip it over and it is a stylus.
> I used a piece of olive wood for this pen. It was also in the Clause care package. I had never turned olive wood before and wanted to see how it looked. I think it went good with the gold and black hardware for this pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, you are not seeing double. I had the kits from the care package to make a pen and pencil. Both were designer kits with the same brushed satin finish, so I decided to make it as matching set. This was something I had never done.
> This set took a lot longer than I anticipated. First, I had done the designer kits before that do not require a tenon. These were not those kits. These you have to cut a tenon for the center band to fit onto. Then, when you slip it on, you have to have the upper barrel the proper diameter for it all to flow as one. What made this a tad harder than it should be was the fact that I did not have bushings for it. I could have waited until I place another order to Penn State and got the right bushings. However, I did not think of all this until I had already glued the brass tubes into the blanks and was ready to turn.
> Oh well. A good set of dial calipers took some careful measuring, and often, but I got the job done without the bushings.
> For the wood, each pen is maple with two rings of cherry and one opposing ring of walnut.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning.


William, just a thought, if you make some more display cases you could hinge the two halves and carry them in one hand.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens For Sale*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These little boxes I make are fine for presenting a pen as a gift. In my shop I have a large display case that hold sixty pens. It is fine for showing them to people who visit my shop. The problem is I need a better way to show my pens away from the shop. I hate to admit it, but my pen sales have been dismal at best. If I am ever to sell more, I desperately need a way to take a few with me when I go to town and display them nicely.
> I looked at various options. There are some real nice commercially available display cases and boxes. I always prefer making something myself though instead of using something that anyone can order and have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is what I came up with. I routes slots in a slab of sycamore for the pens to set into. Then I wrapped that with a sapelle casing with slots for a piece of plexi-glass to fit into. Then I added a sapelle handle to the top to make it comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plexi-glass simply slides up to put pens in, or take them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like loaded with pens.
> I will start carrying this with me when I can. Hopefully it will improve my pen sales. If not, I am going to be forced to start writing a novel just to make a reason for having so many ink pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made an extra case. I have a good friend that is also showing my pens around. Actually, that friend has sold more of my pens than I have. I guess I'm a better wood worker than I am a salesman.
> .
> The rest of today's post consists of pens I have turned the last couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ms. Clause's care package that she sent had a piece of red palm in it. I have turned black palm before and really wanted to see the difference in appearance of the two. It was just a short piece, but that is all that is needed for a .50 Cal. pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one, the pen kit and the wood, is also from that same package.
> It is a Polaris kit with crepe myrtle for the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to dive into some kits that I ordered recently from Penn State.
> No, it is not a broken pen. This is called a flip stylus pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the insert in one way and it is a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take it out and flip it over and it is a stylus.
> I used a piece of olive wood for this pen. It was also in the Clause care package. I had never turned olive wood before and wanted to see how it looked. I think it went good with the gold and black hardware for this pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, you are not seeing double. I had the kits from the care package to make a pen and pencil. Both were designer kits with the same brushed satin finish, so I decided to make it as matching set. This was something I had never done.
> This set took a lot longer than I anticipated. First, I had done the designer kits before that do not require a tenon. These were not those kits. These you have to cut a tenon for the center band to fit onto. Then, when you slip it on, you have to have the upper barrel the proper diameter for it all to flow as one. What made this a tad harder than it should be was the fact that I did not have bushings for it. I could have waited until I place another order to Penn State and got the right bushings. However, I did not think of all this until I had already glued the brass tubes into the blanks and was ready to turn.
> Oh well. A good set of dial calipers took some careful measuring, and often, but I got the job done without the bushings.
> For the wood, each pen is maple with two rings of cherry and one opposing ring of walnut.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning.


Thanks luv. I thought about that. In the end though, I wanted to keep it as light as possible. I have to check with my friend who is helping with my pen sales though. I may wind up making him one in that style.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens For Sale*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These little boxes I make are fine for presenting a pen as a gift. In my shop I have a large display case that hold sixty pens. It is fine for showing them to people who visit my shop. The problem is I need a better way to show my pens away from the shop. I hate to admit it, but my pen sales have been dismal at best. If I am ever to sell more, I desperately need a way to take a few with me when I go to town and display them nicely.
> I looked at various options. There are some real nice commercially available display cases and boxes. I always prefer making something myself though instead of using something that anyone can order and have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is what I came up with. I routes slots in a slab of sycamore for the pens to set into. Then I wrapped that with a sapelle casing with slots for a piece of plexi-glass to fit into. Then I added a sapelle handle to the top to make it comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plexi-glass simply slides up to put pens in, or take them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like loaded with pens.
> I will start carrying this with me when I can. Hopefully it will improve my pen sales. If not, I am going to be forced to start writing a novel just to make a reason for having so many ink pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made an extra case. I have a good friend that is also showing my pens around. Actually, that friend has sold more of my pens than I have. I guess I'm a better wood worker than I am a salesman.
> .
> The rest of today's post consists of pens I have turned the last couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ms. Clause's care package that she sent had a piece of red palm in it. I have turned black palm before and really wanted to see the difference in appearance of the two. It was just a short piece, but that is all that is needed for a .50 Cal. pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one, the pen kit and the wood, is also from that same package.
> It is a Polaris kit with crepe myrtle for the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to dive into some kits that I ordered recently from Penn State.
> No, it is not a broken pen. This is called a flip stylus pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the insert in one way and it is a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take it out and flip it over and it is a stylus.
> I used a piece of olive wood for this pen. It was also in the Clause care package. I had never turned olive wood before and wanted to see how it looked. I think it went good with the gold and black hardware for this pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, you are not seeing double. I had the kits from the care package to make a pen and pencil. Both were designer kits with the same brushed satin finish, so I decided to make it as matching set. This was something I had never done.
> This set took a lot longer than I anticipated. First, I had done the designer kits before that do not require a tenon. These were not those kits. These you have to cut a tenon for the center band to fit onto. Then, when you slip it on, you have to have the upper barrel the proper diameter for it all to flow as one. What made this a tad harder than it should be was the fact that I did not have bushings for it. I could have waited until I place another order to Penn State and got the right bushings. However, I did not think of all this until I had already glued the brass tubes into the blanks and was ready to turn.
> Oh well. A good set of dial calipers took some careful measuring, and often, but I got the job done without the bushings.
> For the wood, each pen is maple with two rings of cherry and one opposing ring of walnut.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning.


a great idea william, of coarse i love all the pens and i hope the new way of carrying them and displaying them will bring more pen sales, have a wonderful Thanksgiving day with your family..


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens For Sale*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These little boxes I make are fine for presenting a pen as a gift. In my shop I have a large display case that hold sixty pens. It is fine for showing them to people who visit my shop. The problem is I need a better way to show my pens away from the shop. I hate to admit it, but my pen sales have been dismal at best. If I am ever to sell more, I desperately need a way to take a few with me when I go to town and display them nicely.
> I looked at various options. There are some real nice commercially available display cases and boxes. I always prefer making something myself though instead of using something that anyone can order and have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is what I came up with. I routes slots in a slab of sycamore for the pens to set into. Then I wrapped that with a sapelle casing with slots for a piece of plexi-glass to fit into. Then I added a sapelle handle to the top to make it comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plexi-glass simply slides up to put pens in, or take them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like loaded with pens.
> I will start carrying this with me when I can. Hopefully it will improve my pen sales. If not, I am going to be forced to start writing a novel just to make a reason for having so many ink pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made an extra case. I have a good friend that is also showing my pens around. Actually, that friend has sold more of my pens than I have. I guess I'm a better wood worker than I am a salesman.
> .
> The rest of today's post consists of pens I have turned the last couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ms. Clause's care package that she sent had a piece of red palm in it. I have turned black palm before and really wanted to see the difference in appearance of the two. It was just a short piece, but that is all that is needed for a .50 Cal. pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one, the pen kit and the wood, is also from that same package.
> It is a Polaris kit with crepe myrtle for the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to dive into some kits that I ordered recently from Penn State.
> No, it is not a broken pen. This is called a flip stylus pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the insert in one way and it is a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take it out and flip it over and it is a stylus.
> I used a piece of olive wood for this pen. It was also in the Clause care package. I had never turned olive wood before and wanted to see how it looked. I think it went good with the gold and black hardware for this pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, you are not seeing double. I had the kits from the care package to make a pen and pencil. Both were designer kits with the same brushed satin finish, so I decided to make it as matching set. This was something I had never done.
> This set took a lot longer than I anticipated. First, I had done the designer kits before that do not require a tenon. These were not those kits. These you have to cut a tenon for the center band to fit onto. Then, when you slip it on, you have to have the upper barrel the proper diameter for it all to flow as one. What made this a tad harder than it should be was the fact that I did not have bushings for it. I could have waited until I place another order to Penn State and got the right bushings. However, I did not think of all this until I had already glued the brass tubes into the blanks and was ready to turn.
> Oh well. A good set of dial calipers took some careful measuring, and often, but I got the job done without the bushings.
> For the wood, each pen is maple with two rings of cherry and one opposing ring of walnut.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning.


Very nice pens and case. What did you think of the olive? I love the stuff. It turns nice and smells quite yummy. The pen and pencil set is great. I guess Mrs. Clause forgot to put the bushings in but that sure didn't stop you from making them.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens For Sale*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These little boxes I make are fine for presenting a pen as a gift. In my shop I have a large display case that hold sixty pens. It is fine for showing them to people who visit my shop. The problem is I need a better way to show my pens away from the shop. I hate to admit it, but my pen sales have been dismal at best. If I am ever to sell more, I desperately need a way to take a few with me when I go to town and display them nicely.
> I looked at various options. There are some real nice commercially available display cases and boxes. I always prefer making something myself though instead of using something that anyone can order and have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is what I came up with. I routes slots in a slab of sycamore for the pens to set into. Then I wrapped that with a sapelle casing with slots for a piece of plexi-glass to fit into. Then I added a sapelle handle to the top to make it comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plexi-glass simply slides up to put pens in, or take them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like loaded with pens.
> I will start carrying this with me when I can. Hopefully it will improve my pen sales. If not, I am going to be forced to start writing a novel just to make a reason for having so many ink pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made an extra case. I have a good friend that is also showing my pens around. Actually, that friend has sold more of my pens than I have. I guess I'm a better wood worker than I am a salesman.
> .
> The rest of today's post consists of pens I have turned the last couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ms. Clause's care package that she sent had a piece of red palm in it. I have turned black palm before and really wanted to see the difference in appearance of the two. It was just a short piece, but that is all that is needed for a .50 Cal. pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one, the pen kit and the wood, is also from that same package.
> It is a Polaris kit with crepe myrtle for the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to dive into some kits that I ordered recently from Penn State.
> No, it is not a broken pen. This is called a flip stylus pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the insert in one way and it is a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take it out and flip it over and it is a stylus.
> I used a piece of olive wood for this pen. It was also in the Clause care package. I had never turned olive wood before and wanted to see how it looked. I think it went good with the gold and black hardware for this pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, you are not seeing double. I had the kits from the care package to make a pen and pencil. Both were designer kits with the same brushed satin finish, so I decided to make it as matching set. This was something I had never done.
> This set took a lot longer than I anticipated. First, I had done the designer kits before that do not require a tenon. These were not those kits. These you have to cut a tenon for the center band to fit onto. Then, when you slip it on, you have to have the upper barrel the proper diameter for it all to flow as one. What made this a tad harder than it should be was the fact that I did not have bushings for it. I could have waited until I place another order to Penn State and got the right bushings. However, I did not think of all this until I had already glued the brass tubes into the blanks and was ready to turn.
> Oh well. A good set of dial calipers took some careful measuring, and often, but I got the job done without the bushings.
> For the wood, each pen is maple with two rings of cherry and one opposing ring of walnut.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning.


Thank you doe. 
I liked how the olive wood turne out. I will defiantly be looking for more in the future. It is one if those woods that looks simple, yet elegant. 
As for the bushings, I have gotten good at measuring and turning using dial calipers. I have to do that for certain pens such as the .45-70 pens. Bushing make things easy but are not necessary to get the job done.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens For Sale*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These little boxes I make are fine for presenting a pen as a gift. In my shop I have a large display case that hold sixty pens. It is fine for showing them to people who visit my shop. The problem is I need a better way to show my pens away from the shop. I hate to admit it, but my pen sales have been dismal at best. If I am ever to sell more, I desperately need a way to take a few with me when I go to town and display them nicely.
> I looked at various options. There are some real nice commercially available display cases and boxes. I always prefer making something myself though instead of using something that anyone can order and have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is what I came up with. I routes slots in a slab of sycamore for the pens to set into. Then I wrapped that with a sapelle casing with slots for a piece of plexi-glass to fit into. Then I added a sapelle handle to the top to make it comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plexi-glass simply slides up to put pens in, or take them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like loaded with pens.
> I will start carrying this with me when I can. Hopefully it will improve my pen sales. If not, I am going to be forced to start writing a novel just to make a reason for having so many ink pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made an extra case. I have a good friend that is also showing my pens around. Actually, that friend has sold more of my pens than I have. I guess I'm a better wood worker than I am a salesman.
> .
> The rest of today's post consists of pens I have turned the last couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ms. Clause's care package that she sent had a piece of red palm in it. I have turned black palm before and really wanted to see the difference in appearance of the two. It was just a short piece, but that is all that is needed for a .50 Cal. pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one, the pen kit and the wood, is also from that same package.
> It is a Polaris kit with crepe myrtle for the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to dive into some kits that I ordered recently from Penn State.
> No, it is not a broken pen. This is called a flip stylus pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the insert in one way and it is a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take it out and flip it over and it is a stylus.
> I used a piece of olive wood for this pen. It was also in the Clause care package. I had never turned olive wood before and wanted to see how it looked. I think it went good with the gold and black hardware for this pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, you are not seeing double. I had the kits from the care package to make a pen and pencil. Both were designer kits with the same brushed satin finish, so I decided to make it as matching set. This was something I had never done.
> This set took a lot longer than I anticipated. First, I had done the designer kits before that do not require a tenon. These were not those kits. These you have to cut a tenon for the center band to fit onto. Then, when you slip it on, you have to have the upper barrel the proper diameter for it all to flow as one. What made this a tad harder than it should be was the fact that I did not have bushings for it. I could have waited until I place another order to Penn State and got the right bushings. However, I did not think of all this until I had already glued the brass tubes into the blanks and was ready to turn.
> Oh well. A good set of dial calipers took some careful measuring, and often, but I got the job done without the bushings.
> For the wood, each pen is maple with two rings of cherry and one opposing ring of walnut.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning.


You are not alone in the poor sales department! I can't sell a box! But like you I enjoy making them!

The 'pen totes' are a great idea and well executed.

I noticed the twin to my pen in the center of the tote. Still my favorite.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens For Sale*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These little boxes I make are fine for presenting a pen as a gift. In my shop I have a large display case that hold sixty pens. It is fine for showing them to people who visit my shop. The problem is I need a better way to show my pens away from the shop. I hate to admit it, but my pen sales have been dismal at best. If I am ever to sell more, I desperately need a way to take a few with me when I go to town and display them nicely.
> I looked at various options. There are some real nice commercially available display cases and boxes. I always prefer making something myself though instead of using something that anyone can order and have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is what I came up with. I routes slots in a slab of sycamore for the pens to set into. Then I wrapped that with a sapelle casing with slots for a piece of plexi-glass to fit into. Then I added a sapelle handle to the top to make it comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plexi-glass simply slides up to put pens in, or take them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like loaded with pens.
> I will start carrying this with me when I can. Hopefully it will improve my pen sales. If not, I am going to be forced to start writing a novel just to make a reason for having so many ink pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made an extra case. I have a good friend that is also showing my pens around. Actually, that friend has sold more of my pens than I have. I guess I'm a better wood worker than I am a salesman.
> .
> The rest of today's post consists of pens I have turned the last couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ms. Clause's care package that she sent had a piece of red palm in it. I have turned black palm before and really wanted to see the difference in appearance of the two. It was just a short piece, but that is all that is needed for a .50 Cal. pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one, the pen kit and the wood, is also from that same package.
> It is a Polaris kit with crepe myrtle for the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to dive into some kits that I ordered recently from Penn State.
> No, it is not a broken pen. This is called a flip stylus pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the insert in one way and it is a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take it out and flip it over and it is a stylus.
> I used a piece of olive wood for this pen. It was also in the Clause care package. I had never turned olive wood before and wanted to see how it looked. I think it went good with the gold and black hardware for this pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, you are not seeing double. I had the kits from the care package to make a pen and pencil. Both were designer kits with the same brushed satin finish, so I decided to make it as matching set. This was something I had never done.
> This set took a lot longer than I anticipated. First, I had done the designer kits before that do not require a tenon. These were not those kits. These you have to cut a tenon for the center band to fit onto. Then, when you slip it on, you have to have the upper barrel the proper diameter for it all to flow as one. What made this a tad harder than it should be was the fact that I did not have bushings for it. I could have waited until I place another order to Penn State and got the right bushings. However, I did not think of all this until I had already glued the brass tubes into the blanks and was ready to turn.
> Oh well. A good set of dial calipers took some careful measuring, and often, but I got the job done without the bushings.
> For the wood, each pen is maple with two rings of cherry and one opposing ring of walnut.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning.


I have yet to make you new favorite and send to you Andy.
I'll get it done after the holidays. 
Sales do seem to be poor for everyone everywhere from what I've been told. Hopefully things will pick up one day.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens For Sale*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These little boxes I make are fine for presenting a pen as a gift. In my shop I have a large display case that hold sixty pens. It is fine for showing them to people who visit my shop. The problem is I need a better way to show my pens away from the shop. I hate to admit it, but my pen sales have been dismal at best. If I am ever to sell more, I desperately need a way to take a few with me when I go to town and display them nicely.
> I looked at various options. There are some real nice commercially available display cases and boxes. I always prefer making something myself though instead of using something that anyone can order and have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is what I came up with. I routes slots in a slab of sycamore for the pens to set into. Then I wrapped that with a sapelle casing with slots for a piece of plexi-glass to fit into. Then I added a sapelle handle to the top to make it comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plexi-glass simply slides up to put pens in, or take them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like loaded with pens.
> I will start carrying this with me when I can. Hopefully it will improve my pen sales. If not, I am going to be forced to start writing a novel just to make a reason for having so many ink pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made an extra case. I have a good friend that is also showing my pens around. Actually, that friend has sold more of my pens than I have. I guess I'm a better wood worker than I am a salesman.
> .
> The rest of today's post consists of pens I have turned the last couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ms. Clause's care package that she sent had a piece of red palm in it. I have turned black palm before and really wanted to see the difference in appearance of the two. It was just a short piece, but that is all that is needed for a .50 Cal. pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one, the pen kit and the wood, is also from that same package.
> It is a Polaris kit with crepe myrtle for the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to dive into some kits that I ordered recently from Penn State.
> No, it is not a broken pen. This is called a flip stylus pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the insert in one way and it is a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take it out and flip it over and it is a stylus.
> I used a piece of olive wood for this pen. It was also in the Clause care package. I had never turned olive wood before and wanted to see how it looked. I think it went good with the gold and black hardware for this pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, you are not seeing double. I had the kits from the care package to make a pen and pencil. Both were designer kits with the same brushed satin finish, so I decided to make it as matching set. This was something I had never done.
> This set took a lot longer than I anticipated. First, I had done the designer kits before that do not require a tenon. These were not those kits. These you have to cut a tenon for the center band to fit onto. Then, when you slip it on, you have to have the upper barrel the proper diameter for it all to flow as one. What made this a tad harder than it should be was the fact that I did not have bushings for it. I could have waited until I place another order to Penn State and got the right bushings. However, I did not think of all this until I had already glued the brass tubes into the blanks and was ready to turn.
> Oh well. A good set of dial calipers took some careful measuring, and often, but I got the job done without the bushings.
> For the wood, each pen is maple with two rings of cherry and one opposing ring of walnut.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning.


Thank you Grizz.
I just happened to look up whiel typing a response to Andy and noticed you had commented. I don't know how I missed it.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens For Sale*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These little boxes I make are fine for presenting a pen as a gift. In my shop I have a large display case that hold sixty pens. It is fine for showing them to people who visit my shop. The problem is I need a better way to show my pens away from the shop. I hate to admit it, but my pen sales have been dismal at best. If I am ever to sell more, I desperately need a way to take a few with me when I go to town and display them nicely.
> I looked at various options. There are some real nice commercially available display cases and boxes. I always prefer making something myself though instead of using something that anyone can order and have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is what I came up with. I routes slots in a slab of sycamore for the pens to set into. Then I wrapped that with a sapelle casing with slots for a piece of plexi-glass to fit into. Then I added a sapelle handle to the top to make it comfortable to carry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plexi-glass simply slides up to put pens in, or take them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like loaded with pens.
> I will start carrying this with me when I can. Hopefully it will improve my pen sales. If not, I am going to be forced to start writing a novel just to make a reason for having so many ink pens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made an extra case. I have a good friend that is also showing my pens around. Actually, that friend has sold more of my pens than I have. I guess I'm a better wood worker than I am a salesman.
> .
> The rest of today's post consists of pens I have turned the last couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ms. Clause's care package that she sent had a piece of red palm in it. I have turned black palm before and really wanted to see the difference in appearance of the two. It was just a short piece, but that is all that is needed for a .50 Cal. pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one, the pen kit and the wood, is also from that same package.
> It is a Polaris kit with crepe myrtle for the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to dive into some kits that I ordered recently from Penn State.
> No, it is not a broken pen. This is called a flip stylus pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the insert in one way and it is a pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take it out and flip it over and it is a stylus.
> I used a piece of olive wood for this pen. It was also in the Clause care package. I had never turned olive wood before and wanted to see how it looked. I think it went good with the gold and black hardware for this pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, you are not seeing double. I had the kits from the care package to make a pen and pencil. Both were designer kits with the same brushed satin finish, so I decided to make it as matching set. This was something I had never done.
> This set took a lot longer than I anticipated. First, I had done the designer kits before that do not require a tenon. These were not those kits. These you have to cut a tenon for the center band to fit onto. Then, when you slip it on, you have to have the upper barrel the proper diameter for it all to flow as one. What made this a tad harder than it should be was the fact that I did not have bushings for it. I could have waited until I place another order to Penn State and got the right bushings. However, I did not think of all this until I had already glued the brass tubes into the blanks and was ready to turn.
> Oh well. A good set of dial calipers took some careful measuring, and often, but I got the job done without the bushings.
> For the wood, each pen is maple with two rings of cherry and one opposing ring of walnut.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning.


No worries William. I still have a pile of hedge on my bench I've been needing to send South!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Higher End*

As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits. 
All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
























This is the over and under shotgun kit.
I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size. 
I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
























This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
.
That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
.
So until next time my friends, happy turning.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Higher End*
> 
> As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
> Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits.
> All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the over and under shotgun kit.
> I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
> Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size.
> I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
> I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
> The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
> .
> That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
> .
> So until next time my friends, happy turning.


Beautiful pens William. The kit parts do look a bit better than the slim lines.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Higher End*
> 
> As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
> Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits.
> All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the over and under shotgun kit.
> I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
> Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size.
> I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
> I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
> The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
> .
> That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
> .
> So until next time my friends, happy turning.


Thank you Mike.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Higher End*
> 
> As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
> Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits.
> All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the over and under shotgun kit.
> I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
> Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size.
> I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
> I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
> The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
> .
> That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
> .
> So until next time my friends, happy turning.


Nice job on the pens, they look marvelous!!!

I can appreciate what you are saying, as it relates to working with the "finer" pen kits….
It is kind of like comparing working with MDF/melamine to working with Birdseye/burl or exotics….

Keep the "fire" burning….
Both in the stove and your heart!!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Higher End*
> 
> As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
> Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits.
> All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the over and under shotgun kit.
> I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
> Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size.
> I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
> I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
> The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
> .
> That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
> .
> So until next time my friends, happy turning.


Thank you randy.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Higher End*
> 
> As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
> Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits.
> All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the over and under shotgun kit.
> I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
> Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size.
> I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
> I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
> The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
> .
> That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
> .
> So until next time my friends, happy turning.


The tulip wood pen turned out magnificent! How did you like the odor it produced?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Higher End*
> 
> As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
> Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits.
> All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the over and under shotgun kit.
> I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
> Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size.
> I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
> I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
> The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
> .
> That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
> .
> So until next time my friends, happy turning.


I really can't tell you Erwin. 
I'm coming down with something and can't smell a thing. 
I do love the way it looks though. 
Thank you.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Higher End*
> 
> As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
> Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits.
> All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the over and under shotgun kit.
> I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
> Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size.
> I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
> I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
> The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
> .
> That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
> .
> So until next time my friends, happy turning.


Those "high end" pens all turned out very nice (but I wouldn't trade my hedge pen for any of them .


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Higher End*
> 
> As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
> Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits.
> All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the over and under shotgun kit.
> I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
> Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size.
> I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
> I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
> The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
> .
> That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
> .
> So until next time my friends, happy turning.


Thank you Andy. 
That is a very kind compliment.


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Higher End*
> 
> As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
> Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits.
> All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the over and under shotgun kit.
> I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
> Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size.
> I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
> I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
> The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
> .
> That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
> .
> So until next time my friends, happy turning.


William,
I think you made the perfect choice with the wood in that olympic pen. It is beautiful!


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Higher End*
> 
> As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
> Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits.
> All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the over and under shotgun kit.
> I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
> Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size.
> I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
> I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
> The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
> .
> That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
> .
> So until next time my friends, happy turning.


William, It's not the fancy hardware that makes a great pen. It's the thought and the work that goes into the turning. My 6 wood pen that you made is a perfect example…..


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Higher End*
> 
> As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
> Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits.
> All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the over and under shotgun kit.
> I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
> Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size.
> I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
> I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
> The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
> .
> That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
> .
> So until next time my friends, happy turning.


Thank you Marty.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Higher End*
> 
> As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
> Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits.
> All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the over and under shotgun kit.
> I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
> Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size.
> I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
> I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
> The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
> .
> That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
> .
> So until next time my friends, happy turning.


Beautiful pens as always. I'm shocked about the plastic although I do agree with Marty.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Higher End*
> 
> As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
> Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits.
> All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the over and under shotgun kit.
> I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
> Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size.
> I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
> I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
> The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
> .
> That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
> .
> So until next time my friends, happy turning.


Thank you lew and doe.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Higher End*
> 
> As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
> Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits.
> All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the over and under shotgun kit.
> I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
> Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size.
> I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
> I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
> The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
> .
> That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
> .
> So until next time my friends, happy turning.


They are definitely beauties.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Higher End*
> 
> As most of you know, I am hooked on turning pens. It is more than an enjoyment factor for me. It is the one thing I have found that bothers me the least when I am hurting in my back. Even on my worst days, I can set a stool at my lathe and still turn a pen or two. So it is the perfect hobby for someone with my health issues.
> Since I started turning though, I look at the Penn State website on a regular basis and lust after the nicer pen kits. Now, I do not want anyone to think I am saying that a nice pen kit alone makes for a nice pen. I've seen some beautiful pens that others have made with the cheapest kits available. Then again, I have seen some ugly pens made with some extremely expensive kits.
> All that being said, I still knew that if I ever got the opportunity, it would still be nice to turn some pens using nicer kits than the slim line kits I normally use. The pens I turned today are from some nicer kits. They aren't necessarily the most expensive in that Penn State catalogue, but nicer than I am used to. Yes, I will still be turning mostly the cheap slim lines. It is what my budget allows unless I can make a lot more sales than I have been. It sure was a treat to turn a little higher end than usual though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the over and under shotgun kit.
> I used ziricote for the upper barrel and lignum vitae for the lower barrel. This pen is massive in size. It's massive size though may fool you in the delicate touch you had better have while turning it. That upper barrel is so thin that I believe I could have written a secret message on the brass sleeve inside the wood. You could probably read it under a bright enough light. I normally rough my pen blanks out with a three eighths gouge and then finish it up with light touches with a quarter inch detail gouge or skew chisel. On this pen, the roughing gouge never got used. You just go straight for the detail tools.
> Other than using a light touch at the lathe, the pen was not hard to make after I ruined three ziricote blanks trying to drill for the huge nine sixteenth sleeve on the upper barrel. After drilling, the blank would be left so thin that the vice on my drill press would distort, or in one case just crush, the remaining wood. The way I wound up doing it was to sneak up on it. First I used a piece of blank way longer than I needed so that the part I was drilling was left sitting above the pen vice. This kept the jaws from adding sidewards pressure. Then I drilled it in three steps, working up to the final hole size.
> I think the extra effort was worth it. In my opinion it is a very nice pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the Olympian Elite kit.
> I decided to use a wood I'd never turned before on this one. The wood is called tulip wood. I think I made a good choice. In my opinion it went well with the gold and black of the pen hardware. I may be a little biased though.
> The wood on this one is quite thin as well. I had no issues though. I think think that was because I learned my lesson with these big barreled pen on the first pen I showed you above. This one is a real nice looking pen. My only complaint with this one is the plastic. While all the pens have some plastic parts here and there, all the parts in this one are completely plastic. They are nice looking and done tastefully. I just really don't care for that much of the stuff. Metal makes me feel much more comfortable. All this concerned me when it came time to press everything together. I could just see in the back of my mind plastic parts shattering and ending all the work I had put into it. Everything went together just fine though. So I guess I was worried for nothing.
> .
> That was all I got done today. I spent a lot of today hugging my wood burning stove in the shop. My joints don't like cold air. So on days like today, even with the shop at a comfortable temperature, I simply hurt less sitting as close to the heater as I can stand.
> .
> So until next time my friends, happy turning.


Thank you roger.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*More Turning Adventures*

If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.








I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly. 
Here is the link to the one I just ordered.








Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items. 
It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?








Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.








So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else. 
If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.








For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side. 
I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.








I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out. 
It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.








I made one with ziricote and box elder.








And another one with hedge apple and walnut.








Next up.
Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin. 
My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them. 
So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
Now for the details of the other three tops.
















This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
















This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
















This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that. 
I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.








When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.








I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.








That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl. 
.
Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
.
Until next time, happy turning!


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


William I love shop made tools. I really love the ones that work. Nice job.
The tops are , well, over the top.
Great gifts and I am sure they will be loved.
Well done my friend.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


Thank you Dave.
Just remember all these tools you can make when you start needing things for your lathe, and you will need things. 
If you figure it all up, you can save a small fortune by making things yourself when you can.
You already know that though.


----------



## sras

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


That oak burl sure looks good! I can see why it is a favorite.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


And I thought all of Santa's elves were at the North Pole!!!

Here's to hoping (knowing really) that your flat jaws perform flawlessly!!!

Now then, stop reading this….
You have gifts to make!!!

Carry on….


----------



## wormil

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


I've often wondered why you couldn't just make cole jaws for an existing chuck but had never seen anyone do it; glad you did and validated my thought process.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


Thank you all.

Steve, 
I love all burls, but have really taken a liking to the oak burl. Now if I could just get my hands on more burl wood.

Randy, 
Elf time is over for the evening.
I have to knock off early on nights the wife works. 
I'll try to get back at it in the morning though.

Rick, I didn't make the jaws, but if you look, the plastic pieces I made are just copies of the metal ones I have that fit over the existing ones, with extension area to make them larger. I have seen some people though that had no existing jaws make them out of plywood. It's just a certain size (depending on what size your lathe can handle) circle cut into fourths. The hardest part is getting the holes perfectly aligned. That was fairly easy for me by laying the clear plastic over the existing jaws, marking them, and drilling. For the extension holes, I used a straight edge, made a line out from the existing holes, then used a compass to make an ark. Then I simply drilled where the line and the arc intersected.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


I do have more of that live oak burl!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


Thanks Erwin. 
I'm not out yet, but I do love the look of it. Out of the few burls I have worked with, that love oak burl is the prettiest I've seen.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


All good stuff William. The pinky pen is nice for the girls, but I like the manly burl best.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


Thank you Mike.


----------



## luv2learn

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


William it looks like we have the same lathe and the same Penn State chuck. Thanks for the plexiglass extension idea, I will have to give it a go. One of the things I did to prevent my lathe motor from ingesting dust and chips was to build a filter for it. If you are interested check out my blog on how I made it.

Since we have the same lathe I would be interested in knowing any problems you might have had with yours. Also, your overall opinion of it.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


Those are real fine tops! I'd love to come and play battle tops with your kids - I can even bring my own. It would so cool to have all of them bumping into each other. Boy, I'd love to see that. I feel like a kid again just thinking about it.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


Thank you both.

Doe, you are welcome anytime you wish to make the trip.

Luv2Learn, I like my lathe quite a bit. My biggest complaint with it would be the fact that it is east to get the tail stock out of line. I think that is the nature of having a rotating head though. I've had to realign it enough that I can get it right pretty quickly though. The trick is to have the center point a tad counterclockwise to the tail stock center point before tightening the hold down.
I would like to have a more powerful motor. I have learned ways around that problem though. More powerful motors also equal more cash, which I don't have, so I can live with this one for now. 
I will be sure to check out your blog when I am on my computer. I'm on my phone at the moment while watching my kids in karate class.


----------



## boxcarmarty

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


You're making me dizzy, or is that the alcohol???


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


William, You never cease to amaze and impress me!

Shop made tools are always a fun build (especially when they work).

Pens and tops are first rate as expected.

Carry on…...


----------



## lew

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


William, 
Those rubber stoppers are a lot cheaper if you have a wine/beer making supplier close by. You can even get them already drilled.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


Thank you all.

Marty, it's the merry go round.

Thank you Andy. When I made the Celtic knot in the hedge apple I thought of you. I think I am going to make your bullet pen with that design. I have a notion you like it.

Lew, I don't have a beer or wine supplier nearby. They aren't too bad at Home Depot though. I think I paid around seventy cents a piece. That is still way cheaper than any of the ones sold by penn state, and a better design in my opinion.


----------



## luv2learn

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


William, thanks for the advise on how to align the head and tail stock on my HF lathe. It worked, but will it stay in alignment when turning asymmetrical stock? I guess I will find out!!


----------



## KTMM

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


"Big Will (iam) keeps on turning", it just seemed appropriate here.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


Thanks Lucas.

Luv2Learn, whether or not your alignment will stay depends on several factors, the biggest being how much outward pressure you put to it. 
I mainly only get mine out of align these days by something happening to cause me to e turning something that is so far out of balance that it is really dangerous to be turning anyway. For example, I recently had a bowl completely blow apart on me leaving about half the bowl on one side. This threw things way out of balance and effecte my alignment. This is not a common occurance though. 
My advice, if your turning is like mine is to get it in line and plan on leaving it there. Once mine is aligned, I tighten the hold down good. I mean I tighten the crap out of that sucker. I have removed the screw from the handle so that I can more easily turn it to get the maximin leverage for tightening it. Once it is tight I remove the handle so no one is tempted to loosen it. I store it so I know where it's at should I need it again.

By the way, have you looked at the up and down alignment? Mine was perfect out of the box. However, I have remove the head of mine just so I could walk another guy through online to align his. If your head side is low it can be shimmed. If the head side is high it would require precision milling and my suggestion would be to return it if possible. 
Anyway, if the head is low it is going to be a tiny tiny amount. The guy I helped shimmed his with a cut up coke can. Here's how it's done. 
Behind the head, below the belt guard is two nuts that lock down the tightening bolt assembly. Remove them. 
Completely unscrew the tightening handle. Take care to catch the dog piece in the back where you previously removed the lock nuts. Pull the front dog and bolt out of the front. 
Pick the head unit up (it is heavy) an set it aside. 
There is a metal ring that oriented the head unit that you'll see now. Find the proper size Allen wrench and remove the three bolts holding it down. 
Wiggle the orientation ring off. It takes some coaxing because there are two metal pins in it that keeps it properly aligned on the base. Now I suggest cleaning the gunk off of everything while you're there. It's not necessary but cleaning it and waxing it only makes it easier to turn should you wish from now on. That gunk is only there to prevent rust. Wax will prevent rust as well. 
Now lay down strips of coke can next to where each mounting bolt goes. If you have your strips longer than the width of the hold down ring, make the excess hang to the inside as not to interfere with rotational movement later. I suggest using one thin strip at each bolt for now. You can take it apart and add more strips to build it up if needed. If it is out of line enough to need more than one layer of strips, then you have to decide of you are willing to keep disassembling it till you get it right or take your chances on getting a better one upon returning. 
Now reassemble by doing everything in reverse if disassembly and recheck your alignment.

I can't believe I just typed all that on my phone for a problem that you may not have, but I figured someone might be interested in it. 
Anyway, another reason is to demonstrate that alignment issues can be fixed. I've read online people complaining about these harbor freight machines and they,re alignment issues due to them being cheap knockoffs (their words, not mine). The funny thing is that further reading has shown me that owners of the jet equivelant of this took have had the same issues. So I think it is a rotating head problem, not just a harbor freight issue. I honestly believe that this lathe is a diamond in the rough for guys like us who don't have a butt load of cash to drop on something like powermatic (my dream lathe).


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


You've become a turning magician. I really like the way those Civil War pens look when done with burls. Everything, way awesome, William.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Turning Adventures*
> 
> If you remember the stylus flip pens I made several days ago, I needed to make a couple of more for a friend, and he likes the Celtic knots I have glued up in the past. So that was the plan. However, there is a lot of waiting when gluing up the Celtic knots. So I always try to stay busy on something else while waiting on glue to set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my economy chuck from Penn State. I love it so much that I have it on good authority (since I'm the one who placed the order) that I'll be getting another one for Christmas. The reason I want another one is that, when doing bowls, it is a pain to have to remove the jaws to put on the flat jaws so I can remove the tenon and finish the bottom. I have been thinking for a while how nice it would be to have a second chuck to just spin on quickly.
> Here is the link to the one I just ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, back to what I was working on in between gluing strips in for Celtic knots.
> Here is my flat jaws. They do the job, but do have their limitations. The maximum diameter bowl that can be held with them is about eight inches. I knew there had to be a way to hold larger bowls. So I done some searching and found this. If you click on the link, you'll see it is an extension for the flat jaws that allows you to hold larger items.
> It looks like a great idea. There was just one problem. I was just about to submit my order for the extensions when I noticed in the description that they are made of plastic. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the product. Personally though, seeing as how I love making my own stuff anyway, I just cannot bring myself to spend forty bucks on something like that made of plastic if I think I can make it myself. It is just plastic with some holes in it, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since I have decided to make it myself anyway, I thought about correcting another little issue I've always disliked about my jaws, and pretty much every other set of jaws I've seen on the market. With these straight, rather stiff, rubber mounting pins you have to have a pretty good grip on bowls if you don't want them to go flying. As a matter of fact, I have cracked two bowls that I can remember by having to tighten down on them too hard. There had to be a better way. So I made a trip to town to see what concoctions I could come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, here is the plastic jaw extensions I made. They are made of three eighths inch thick plexi-glass. I know, some of you are already thinking I am crazy. It is well balanced though and these will only be ran on the slowest speed setting. All you use these for is to finish off the bottom of bowls after you have done everything else.
> If I have any issues with them down the road, I'll be sure to let you all know so you'll know not to go this route. Until then though, I don't foresee any problems with this setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the mounting pin solution, I found some rubber stopper plugs in the specialty drawers at Home Depot. I drilled quarter inch holes through the middle of them. Then I threaded bolts through them, then through the plastic plates, and hold them on with nuts on the back side.
> I like these enough that I am going to buy more, and find out the thread size, so I can add the same thing to my regular jaws without the extensions. These are longer. They have an angle to them that can be adapted to accept any shaped bowl you decide to make. Also, while firm, they are soft enough (softer than the factory pins) that you can tighten the nuts if you need to make them bulge more to hold the bowl more firmly instead of putting the brute force of the chuck into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made my Celtic knot glue ups for two pen blanks while I was doing all this. Then I started drilling to make pens. This photo shows the biggest drawback to making such glue ups. You never know how well, or how bad, things will turn out. This one didn't even make it off the drill press before blowing out.
> It's a good thing I don't give up that easily though. I had to glue up another one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one with ziricote and box elder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another one with hedge apple and walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up.
> Some of you may remember the spinning top kit that was in the Ms. Clause care package from a while back. I turned the top you see in the far left of the above photo out of rosewood. Well that started something.
> Ever since I turned that turner, my kids have to look at it everyday. They get me to give it a spin on the table any chance they get. So this set my planning wheels into full spin.
> My kids all want one of these tops. I told them they can't have one though. My excuse? I told them about how the hardware for this nifty little kit is plated with gold. Now why would you give a kid a top with gold plated hardware to play with? No. This is a man's toy. It is something you put on a desk at work as a conversation piece. That's what I tell them.
> So here is where I am at. Each of my kids are going to get a spinning top for Christmas. What can make it better though? What about this? I turn them all, set them out in plain site, tell them they are "for sale", and then come over to wrap them on Christmas eve after they've gone to bed. I think they are going to love these, but also hate me a little for putting them through this.
> Now for the details of the other three tops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of purple heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is beech between two layers of lace wood.
> By the time I got to turning this one, I had given up on any resemblance of design and just started having fun with the turning; sort of making it up as I went along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last one is two strips of cherry with zebra wood between them, then blood wood on both sides of that.
> I called this one rolling low. As I was making it up as I went, I didn't realize until I finished it and made a test spin just how low this one would look while spinning. I think I like this one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I made the civil war pen a while back, everyone liked it. If you remember it, you'll remember that I used box elder burl on it. So on this one, with the same chrome plating on the hardware, I decided to use another piece of box elder that I had. This one isn't burl, but it had something else I liked about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to show another shot of it to show you though.
> This piece looks kind of plain looking at one side of the pen. As you roll it around though, a pretty pink hue presents itself on the other side of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That left me with only the gun metal hardware civil war pen. I was thinking about what wood would go well with it. I decided to use one of my personal favorites for it, oak burl.
> .
> Well that is several of my days I've shown you at once here. My regular readers just have to bare with me this time of year though. With Christmas fast approaching, I stay as busy as I can. Between trying to make things that will sell and making a few gift items for family and friends, I can never seem to catch my breath during the holidays. I will post when I can.
> .
> Until next time, happy turning!


Thank you roger.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Here And There*

I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something. 
Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it. 








This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
















You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.








These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts. 
Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
















These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts. 
The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
















I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder. 
The handle is made from eucalyptus.
.
That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning. 
Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life. 
BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
Allow me to explain. 
.
Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package. 
.
Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
"we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway" 
Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas. 
.
Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable. 
Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.








For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips. 
So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.








When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.








There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.








The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.








This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.








So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.








The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time. 
This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway. 
On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.

I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
.
Until next time my friends, happy turning!


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Always enjoy your "ramblings" my friend.

Some assembly required usually equals "your worst nightmare". We had my youngest and her latest beau over just before Christmas and after dinner I talked them into putting a "some assembly required" playhouse for my granddaughter together. It eventually got done and provided a full evening's entertainment for me as I never left my easy chair! They may never come back but it was fun for me and my wife (brought back a lot of memories putting crap together with Chinese instructions on Christmas eve!)


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


I see you have been quite busy.
You are now forgiven….
for not posting enough over at the Stumpy Zone!!! ;^)

I like how the new pen boxes "show off" the pens.
The gift turnings went over well, I'd guess!!!
Great shop additions. I want a report on the steady rest(s)!!!

Carry on….


----------



## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Thanks for the smiles William. Some assembly required is agonizing - especially when you have to wait for the darlings to go to bed and you can't curse because they might hear you.

I like the chain pulls - neat idea.


----------



## lightcs1776

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Love the review. You have a very busy schedule. Everything looks great, especially the pulls.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Thank you all.
I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one around who thinks that "some assembly required" should be lumped in with certain four letter words. 
I hope to get back at actually turning something real soon.
I have an order in from PSI.
It was supposed to be here Friday.
On the tracking website though, I got an "exception" message that informed me that, apparantly, they forgot my package at a UPS facility and the scheduled delivery date is now REsheduled.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Thanks Chris.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


I went over to Williams shop and enjoyed most of this first hand. We had a great time. William was good enough to help me out with a problem and he had a few great solutions to it.
William the only thing you didn't have built was the steady rest.
Looks very good to me.
Thank you for all your help and the loaner. 
If you need any thing let me know and I will do my best.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Thanks Dave.
You're welcome for the loaner.
I know where it's at if I ever need it.
You're welcome back anytime.

That goes for any of my wood working buddies.
I always love visitors to the shop if any of you are ever in this corner of the world.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


William, Wow you have been busy. Looked at the other blog as well. Some real nice pens, I like the color ones. I also like the new pen boxes. great idea.

As always look forward to your ramblings and postings.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Thank you Chris.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Your ramblings are a lot more interesting than most people's conversations, my friend.

My husband used to accuse me of wanting to play with the toys first when I opened and assembled well before the big day, so we never had any oops moments. And I must admit for the first time, I did get to play with the toys first.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Wish you a Happy and Healthy 2014. Look forward to all you do.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Good to see you're keeping busy…...lot's of new things….very cool. Those little chain pulls are just the bomb…....


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Thank you all.

Doe, it seems that the toys kids have now are more interesting than the toys I had. So yes, I like playing with the toys as well. 
I failed to mention that my sons got red Ryder BB guns this year. I always wanted one as a kid, but my grandma would always tell me (I kid you not) you'll put your eye out kid. 
Yes, I think I have shot them as much at least as each of my boys. 
I can't help it. I can set up a BB trap here and shoot theirs safely. I have to drive out a ways to be able to shoot my guns.

Roger, the same to you.

Jeff, you can turn anything that is supposed to be round. If you look at the photos of the steady rest, see the handle? You can even turn things you wish to leave partially square.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Sounds like almost everything went ok for Christmas William. I hope you have a great 2014.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Here And There*
> 
> I hope every one of you had a great Christmas. It is now a new year and I am running here and there trying to catch up enough just so I can get back to actually making something.
> Let's start by showing a couple of things that I was not able to get into my last blog entry before Christmas.
> By the way, that last blog entry was so photo heavy that I wound up posting it only on my own blog, not here on Lumberjocks. It is here if anyone wants to see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an example of the new boxes I started making during the Christmas season. My old design, with the hinges and magnets, were costing me several dollars per box. That doesn't sound like a lot. If you sell enough pens though, and a lot of people want you to throw the box in with the price of a pen, that can eat into any potential profits pretty badly. These cost me little more than time. I always have some small blocks of wood around. It has a plexi-glass cover. I usually have cutoffs of plexi-glass around from other projects. Even if I have to buy a sheet though, it will still come out a lot cheaper than the previous boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see in these other photos how the clear lid slides out to allow the pen to be removed from the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are chain pulls I made for a friend to be given out as Christmas gifts.
> Starting at the top, they are in two piece sets of purple heart, blood wood, and sapelle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are bottle stoppers I made for the same friend to give out as gifts.
> The top one is sapelle and the bottom one is rosewood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people make the wooden handled multi-bit screwdrivers. Some are made from kits and some are made from cheap hardware store screwdrivers. This one was made using the cheaper version.
> I bought a three dollar screwdriver from Home Depot. I used an old chisel to break the plastic handle off of it. Then I turned a handle for it and glued the little metal piece in that holds the reversible bit holder.
> The handle is made from eucalyptus.
> .
> That was all I got done leading up to Christmas. Since then, I have been playing catchup. For starters, with all the pens I made leading up to the holiday, and wrapping, and a number of other going ons, my shop was a mess. I took a couple of days just doing a major shop cleaning.
> Then I had to get to the Christmas present dance after Christmas. For any of you out there who do not yet have kids, or your kids are still babies, I'll let you in on a little secret that you learn the hard way as a parent.
> When buying presents for kids, there are some phrases written on boxes that you need to pay close attention to. Two of these phrases that are quite common on toys will take a lot of time away from your happy life.
> BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED
> SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
> Allow me to explain.
> .
> Batteries not included can and will give you a headache. There is nothing like having your child unwrap that special present you bought, that you know they will love and you can't wait to see the joy in their eyes when they play with, only to realize that batteries are not included and you did not notice it. Then there is that crazy mad dash to the closest place to buy some batteries. The problem is that it is Christmas. There is nowhere open except convenience stores. Convenience store batteries are overpriced. Then there is the fact that, because they are overpriced, they have sat there on that shelf for a year and may or may not have enough juice left in them to actually run the toy. Add to all this the fact that even the convenience store batteries are getting scarce because of all the other caring fathers who also did not pay attention to the batteries not included printing on the toy package.
> .
> Some assembly required is the worst of the worst of the most aggravating worst though.
> Some assembly required is actually translated exactly to:
> "we have provided a poorly written manual to assist you a half a percent in putting together this overcomplicated piece of childhood toy and father torture device that will drive you absolutely insane and pull your hair out in frustration while we sit and laugh at the thought of how we, collectively holding the power to stop Christmas all over the world in one fell swoop of a poor design, have made life a living hell for millions of people all over the world assembling this piece of plastic that will be torn up within forty eight hours anyway"
> Who writes these manuals? Who designs these things? These holes go this way. However, we have added some other holes on the other end that actually are there for no other reason but to confuse you because, if you use these holes, something else will not line up correctly in a later step. So flip a coin and we hope you the best of luck. You read english? Good. Then we'll intermix the english text with other text in chinese, french, german, spanish and russian to make it more interesting for you. We know you have nothing better to do on Christmas.
> .
> Seriously folks. Next year I think I am going to do something I done a few years ago and make all my kid's presents. It was easier and a lot more enjoyable.
> Anyway, I survived the mad dash for batteries and the assembly from hell. Honestly, I only had one present to assembly this year, because I learned my lesson years ago, but who knew they could make a basketball goal so complicated to assemble?
> With all the fun and festivities going on, I have just started trying to get back into the shop in the last few days. Before diving back into any projects though, I decided to take this time to do a couple of tasks that have been on my mind. Besides that, a couple of my boys who have been out of school for the holidays just love helping Dad. These side projects are easier for me to keep them busy helping on than my normal projects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some time there has been a shelf on my lathe stand that I put odd and end things on. The problem is that, when I installed it, I did not think about the fact that it would fill up quickly and often with shavings and chips from turning. Anytime I needed something from the shelf, I had to sift through fifty pounds of wood chips to find it, all the while making sure I didn't throw out the exact thing I was looking for while moving the chips.
> So I boxed it in and put a door on the front so I can access things there easily, while keeping the chips and such out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the door is closed and latched, it is completely enclosed so all the unwanted stuff stays out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There has been several occasions that I needed a steady rest. I've seen many designs online, both for commercially available designs and shop built ones. I took what I've seen, gathered materials that I thought would work well, and started building.
> This was the first design. I like the design I came up with. The problem is that, when I started, I had less aluminum channel that I thought I did. I had cut the plywood ring to a size that this, with the aluminum channel, did not allow it to be adjusted down to a size for really small diameter turnings, which is something I will be needing it for in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base for the ring I made out of two blocks of wood that are cut to run along the ways on the lathe bed and be clamped tight to hold in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo, with it off the lathe, makes it easier to see. I made a wooden handle to hold the nut that gets screwed onto a bolt that runs through it all so you can tighten it down, sandwiching the two blocks tightly on the lathe bed.
> I thought about scrapping the first design until I could order some longer channel. I decided I would keep it though for larger things I may need it for. My thinking was that I may have a need on an odd weighted bowl or vessel one day. So I would keep that one and make another one for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a smaller version for smaller turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum channel easily transfers from one ring to the other, depending on what size steady rest you need. I also figured I only need the one handle since I won't be using but one at a time.
> This will allow me to use the stead rest for turnings from an eight of an inch in diameter all the way up to twelve inches, the maximum my lather will turn anyway.
> On both rings, the aluminum channel is held in place in slots cut into the rings. When you tighten the black knobs, it pulls the channels tight into these slots, holding them rigid in position. On the other end of the aluminum channel is skate board bearings.
> 
> I now have these completed and hung on the wall near the lathe for next time I have one of those pieces that wants to chatter and vibrate so bad that I can hardly turn it. I will let you all know when I use them, but I think they'll do just fine for taming those bad vibrations.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Thanks Mike. You too.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Flying Pens*

I received an email a couple of days ago reminding me that I haven't posted anything in a few weeks. So I decided that the first thing I had to place on the agenda today was to make a post or two showing that I have been active at something.
I've had a lot going on, both in wood working, and personally. Between all that, I have turned a few pens. The problem with that is that some of them have been flying out the door before I can get a chance to snap photos of them. So let me show you the ones I do have photos of.








I had not planned on doing anything in deer antler after Christmas for a while. However, immediately after making that statement, several people started asking about when I'd be making more deer antler pens. Well, as I heard someone say once, sometimes we do the things we don't want to do, in order to be able to do the things we don't want to do. So, since some people are still wanting deer antler, I got busy turning deer antler.
These six bolt action pens are about half of what I turned. The rest seemed to just disappear off the table before I could make boxes for them, or snap photos.








I had two fifty caliber kits left and decided to do those in antler too. I had several short cutoffs of antler left that were perfect sized for these pens, but not much else. So the popularity of the antler created a means for not allowing those pieces to go to waste.
















If any of you remember the story behind the enormous over and shotgun pen I done a while back in deer antler, the one I was told couldn't be done? Well I done two more of them. I made these just to see if I could, or if that first one was just a lucky shot.








These are Compson click pens. They are actually two of a six piece starter package from Penn State. These are the only two I got photos of before they disappeared though. So I guess I need to order more of these when I can. 
These two are done in zebra wood cut at a forty five degree angle, and walnut burl.








Here are the last two of the credit card stylus pens I had left two make. These also seem to be popular pens. These are done in cherry burl and oak burl.








I made three more of the buffalo pencils. I liked the ones I've made of these before in burls, so I wanted to go with that. The fact that I love burl so much helped with that decision a tad as well I believe.
These are done in cherry burl, oak burl, and buckeye burl.

That's what I have to show you in pens. I had a few real nice ones that I wish I had taken photos of before they left. I guess I need to start keeping the camera closer so I can be sure to do that.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Flying Pens*
> 
> I received an email a couple of days ago reminding me that I haven't posted anything in a few weeks. So I decided that the first thing I had to place on the agenda today was to make a post or two showing that I have been active at something.
> I've had a lot going on, both in wood working, and personally. Between all that, I have turned a few pens. The problem with that is that some of them have been flying out the door before I can get a chance to snap photos of them. So let me show you the ones I do have photos of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had not planned on doing anything in deer antler after Christmas for a while. However, immediately after making that statement, several people started asking about when I'd be making more deer antler pens. Well, as I heard someone say once, sometimes we do the things we don't want to do, in order to be able to do the things we don't want to do. So, since some people are still wanting deer antler, I got busy turning deer antler.
> These six bolt action pens are about half of what I turned. The rest seemed to just disappear off the table before I could make boxes for them, or snap photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had two fifty caliber kits left and decided to do those in antler too. I had several short cutoffs of antler left that were perfect sized for these pens, but not much else. So the popularity of the antler created a means for not allowing those pieces to go to waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If any of you remember the story behind the enormous over and shotgun pen I done a while back in deer antler, the one I was told couldn't be done? Well I done two more of them. I made these just to see if I could, or if that first one was just a lucky shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are Compson click pens. They are actually two of a six piece starter package from Penn State. These are the only two I got photos of before they disappeared though. So I guess I need to order more of these when I can.
> These two are done in zebra wood cut at a forty five degree angle, and walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the last two of the credit card stylus pens I had left two make. These also seem to be popular pens. These are done in cherry burl and oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three more of the buffalo pencils. I liked the ones I've made of these before in burls, so I wanted to go with that. The fact that I love burl so much helped with that decision a tad as well I believe.
> These are done in cherry burl, oak burl, and buckeye burl.
> 
> That's what I have to show you in pens. I had a few real nice ones that I wish I had taken photos of before they left. I guess I need to start keeping the camera closer so I can be sure to do that.


William, Another nice collection of pens. Glad to hear you are keeping busy and stuff is selling.

CtL


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Flying Pens*
> 
> I received an email a couple of days ago reminding me that I haven't posted anything in a few weeks. So I decided that the first thing I had to place on the agenda today was to make a post or two showing that I have been active at something.
> I've had a lot going on, both in wood working, and personally. Between all that, I have turned a few pens. The problem with that is that some of them have been flying out the door before I can get a chance to snap photos of them. So let me show you the ones I do have photos of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had not planned on doing anything in deer antler after Christmas for a while. However, immediately after making that statement, several people started asking about when I'd be making more deer antler pens. Well, as I heard someone say once, sometimes we do the things we don't want to do, in order to be able to do the things we don't want to do. So, since some people are still wanting deer antler, I got busy turning deer antler.
> These six bolt action pens are about half of what I turned. The rest seemed to just disappear off the table before I could make boxes for them, or snap photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had two fifty caliber kits left and decided to do those in antler too. I had several short cutoffs of antler left that were perfect sized for these pens, but not much else. So the popularity of the antler created a means for not allowing those pieces to go to waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If any of you remember the story behind the enormous over and shotgun pen I done a while back in deer antler, the one I was told couldn't be done? Well I done two more of them. I made these just to see if I could, or if that first one was just a lucky shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are Compson click pens. They are actually two of a six piece starter package from Penn State. These are the only two I got photos of before they disappeared though. So I guess I need to order more of these when I can.
> These two are done in zebra wood cut at a forty five degree angle, and walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the last two of the credit card stylus pens I had left two make. These also seem to be popular pens. These are done in cherry burl and oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three more of the buffalo pencils. I liked the ones I've made of these before in burls, so I wanted to go with that. The fact that I love burl so much helped with that decision a tad as well I believe.
> These are done in cherry burl, oak burl, and buckeye burl.
> 
> That's what I have to show you in pens. I had a few real nice ones that I wish I had taken photos of before they left. I guess I need to start keeping the camera closer so I can be sure to do that.


Clearly you are one of Penn States better customers….
Or at least a Penn State advertisement!!!

Glad to hear that your pens are in such high demand….
I hope that it doesn't start to feel too much like a job!!!

Please don't go all "Hollywood" on us….
When you become a rich & famous celebrity turner!!! ;^)


----------



## lightcs1776

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Flying Pens*
> 
> I received an email a couple of days ago reminding me that I haven't posted anything in a few weeks. So I decided that the first thing I had to place on the agenda today was to make a post or two showing that I have been active at something.
> I've had a lot going on, both in wood working, and personally. Between all that, I have turned a few pens. The problem with that is that some of them have been flying out the door before I can get a chance to snap photos of them. So let me show you the ones I do have photos of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had not planned on doing anything in deer antler after Christmas for a while. However, immediately after making that statement, several people started asking about when I'd be making more deer antler pens. Well, as I heard someone say once, sometimes we do the things we don't want to do, in order to be able to do the things we don't want to do. So, since some people are still wanting deer antler, I got busy turning deer antler.
> These six bolt action pens are about half of what I turned. The rest seemed to just disappear off the table before I could make boxes for them, or snap photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had two fifty caliber kits left and decided to do those in antler too. I had several short cutoffs of antler left that were perfect sized for these pens, but not much else. So the popularity of the antler created a means for not allowing those pieces to go to waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If any of you remember the story behind the enormous over and shotgun pen I done a while back in deer antler, the one I was told couldn't be done? Well I done two more of them. I made these just to see if I could, or if that first one was just a lucky shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are Compson click pens. They are actually two of a six piece starter package from Penn State. These are the only two I got photos of before they disappeared though. So I guess I need to order more of these when I can.
> These two are done in zebra wood cut at a forty five degree angle, and walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the last two of the credit card stylus pens I had left two make. These also seem to be popular pens. These are done in cherry burl and oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three more of the buffalo pencils. I liked the ones I've made of these before in burls, so I wanted to go with that. The fact that I love burl so much helped with that decision a tad as well I believe.
> These are done in cherry burl, oak burl, and buckeye burl.
> 
> That's what I have to show you in pens. I had a few real nice ones that I wish I had taken photos of before they left. I guess I need to start keeping the camera closer so I can be sure to do that.


Beautiful work, William. I love the ones made to look like a rifle round. I see why they go out the door so quickly.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Flying Pens*
> 
> I received an email a couple of days ago reminding me that I haven't posted anything in a few weeks. So I decided that the first thing I had to place on the agenda today was to make a post or two showing that I have been active at something.
> I've had a lot going on, both in wood working, and personally. Between all that, I have turned a few pens. The problem with that is that some of them have been flying out the door before I can get a chance to snap photos of them. So let me show you the ones I do have photos of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had not planned on doing anything in deer antler after Christmas for a while. However, immediately after making that statement, several people started asking about when I'd be making more deer antler pens. Well, as I heard someone say once, sometimes we do the things we don't want to do, in order to be able to do the things we don't want to do. So, since some people are still wanting deer antler, I got busy turning deer antler.
> These six bolt action pens are about half of what I turned. The rest seemed to just disappear off the table before I could make boxes for them, or snap photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had two fifty caliber kits left and decided to do those in antler too. I had several short cutoffs of antler left that were perfect sized for these pens, but not much else. So the popularity of the antler created a means for not allowing those pieces to go to waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If any of you remember the story behind the enormous over and shotgun pen I done a while back in deer antler, the one I was told couldn't be done? Well I done two more of them. I made these just to see if I could, or if that first one was just a lucky shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are Compson click pens. They are actually two of a six piece starter package from Penn State. These are the only two I got photos of before they disappeared though. So I guess I need to order more of these when I can.
> These two are done in zebra wood cut at a forty five degree angle, and walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the last two of the credit card stylus pens I had left two make. These also seem to be popular pens. These are done in cherry burl and oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three more of the buffalo pencils. I liked the ones I've made of these before in burls, so I wanted to go with that. The fact that I love burl so much helped with that decision a tad as well I believe.
> These are done in cherry burl, oak burl, and buckeye burl.
> 
> That's what I have to show you in pens. I had a few real nice ones that I wish I had taken photos of before they left. I guess I need to start keeping the camera closer so I can be sure to do that.


You're sounding like me.. lol Never enough time for it all. Stay busy. Work/Play at your own place. Your "gun-collection" of pens are always eye candy. OH, what are you using to finish these? They look fantastic. Thnx in advance.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Flying Pens*
> 
> I received an email a couple of days ago reminding me that I haven't posted anything in a few weeks. So I decided that the first thing I had to place on the agenda today was to make a post or two showing that I have been active at something.
> I've had a lot going on, both in wood working, and personally. Between all that, I have turned a few pens. The problem with that is that some of them have been flying out the door before I can get a chance to snap photos of them. So let me show you the ones I do have photos of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had not planned on doing anything in deer antler after Christmas for a while. However, immediately after making that statement, several people started asking about when I'd be making more deer antler pens. Well, as I heard someone say once, sometimes we do the things we don't want to do, in order to be able to do the things we don't want to do. So, since some people are still wanting deer antler, I got busy turning deer antler.
> These six bolt action pens are about half of what I turned. The rest seemed to just disappear off the table before I could make boxes for them, or snap photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had two fifty caliber kits left and decided to do those in antler too. I had several short cutoffs of antler left that were perfect sized for these pens, but not much else. So the popularity of the antler created a means for not allowing those pieces to go to waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If any of you remember the story behind the enormous over and shotgun pen I done a while back in deer antler, the one I was told couldn't be done? Well I done two more of them. I made these just to see if I could, or if that first one was just a lucky shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are Compson click pens. They are actually two of a six piece starter package from Penn State. These are the only two I got photos of before they disappeared though. So I guess I need to order more of these when I can.
> These two are done in zebra wood cut at a forty five degree angle, and walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the last two of the credit card stylus pens I had left two make. These also seem to be popular pens. These are done in cherry burl and oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three more of the buffalo pencils. I liked the ones I've made of these before in burls, so I wanted to go with that. The fact that I love burl so much helped with that decision a tad as well I believe.
> These are done in cherry burl, oak burl, and buckeye burl.
> 
> That's what I have to show you in pens. I had a few real nice ones that I wish I had taken photos of before they left. I guess I need to start keeping the camera closer so I can be sure to do that.


Thank you all.

Roger, I use CA glue for finish.
I sand up to 2000 grit, then I apply three coats of thin CA. On the more expenisve pens I sometimes do five coats, depending on how it looks after three.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Flying Pens*
> 
> I received an email a couple of days ago reminding me that I haven't posted anything in a few weeks. So I decided that the first thing I had to place on the agenda today was to make a post or two showing that I have been active at something.
> I've had a lot going on, both in wood working, and personally. Between all that, I have turned a few pens. The problem with that is that some of them have been flying out the door before I can get a chance to snap photos of them. So let me show you the ones I do have photos of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had not planned on doing anything in deer antler after Christmas for a while. However, immediately after making that statement, several people started asking about when I'd be making more deer antler pens. Well, as I heard someone say once, sometimes we do the things we don't want to do, in order to be able to do the things we don't want to do. So, since some people are still wanting deer antler, I got busy turning deer antler.
> These six bolt action pens are about half of what I turned. The rest seemed to just disappear off the table before I could make boxes for them, or snap photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had two fifty caliber kits left and decided to do those in antler too. I had several short cutoffs of antler left that were perfect sized for these pens, but not much else. So the popularity of the antler created a means for not allowing those pieces to go to waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If any of you remember the story behind the enormous over and shotgun pen I done a while back in deer antler, the one I was told couldn't be done? Well I done two more of them. I made these just to see if I could, or if that first one was just a lucky shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are Compson click pens. They are actually two of a six piece starter package from Penn State. These are the only two I got photos of before they disappeared though. So I guess I need to order more of these when I can.
> These two are done in zebra wood cut at a forty five degree angle, and walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the last two of the credit card stylus pens I had left two make. These also seem to be popular pens. These are done in cherry burl and oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three more of the buffalo pencils. I liked the ones I've made of these before in burls, so I wanted to go with that. The fact that I love burl so much helped with that decision a tad as well I believe.
> These are done in cherry burl, oak burl, and buckeye burl.
> 
> That's what I have to show you in pens. I had a few real nice ones that I wish I had taken photos of before they left. I guess I need to start keeping the camera closer so I can be sure to do that.


the work here is so beautiful william, your doing a great job with these, always enjoy seeing your work, i would imagine your getting this butt freezing cold like were getting, tonight is going to be a real cold one, and we still have more coming, stay warm my friend…and keep turning those great pens…


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Flying Pens*
> 
> I received an email a couple of days ago reminding me that I haven't posted anything in a few weeks. So I decided that the first thing I had to place on the agenda today was to make a post or two showing that I have been active at something.
> I've had a lot going on, both in wood working, and personally. Between all that, I have turned a few pens. The problem with that is that some of them have been flying out the door before I can get a chance to snap photos of them. So let me show you the ones I do have photos of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had not planned on doing anything in deer antler after Christmas for a while. However, immediately after making that statement, several people started asking about when I'd be making more deer antler pens. Well, as I heard someone say once, sometimes we do the things we don't want to do, in order to be able to do the things we don't want to do. So, since some people are still wanting deer antler, I got busy turning deer antler.
> These six bolt action pens are about half of what I turned. The rest seemed to just disappear off the table before I could make boxes for them, or snap photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had two fifty caliber kits left and decided to do those in antler too. I had several short cutoffs of antler left that were perfect sized for these pens, but not much else. So the popularity of the antler created a means for not allowing those pieces to go to waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If any of you remember the story behind the enormous over and shotgun pen I done a while back in deer antler, the one I was told couldn't be done? Well I done two more of them. I made these just to see if I could, or if that first one was just a lucky shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are Compson click pens. They are actually two of a six piece starter package from Penn State. These are the only two I got photos of before they disappeared though. So I guess I need to order more of these when I can.
> These two are done in zebra wood cut at a forty five degree angle, and walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the last two of the credit card stylus pens I had left two make. These also seem to be popular pens. These are done in cherry burl and oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three more of the buffalo pencils. I liked the ones I've made of these before in burls, so I wanted to go with that. The fact that I love burl so much helped with that decision a tad as well I believe.
> These are done in cherry burl, oak burl, and buckeye burl.
> 
> That's what I have to show you in pens. I had a few real nice ones that I wish I had taken photos of before they left. I guess I need to start keeping the camera closer so I can be sure to do that.


Nice looking work, as always William…...good to see you're keeping busy!


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Flying Pens*
> 
> I received an email a couple of days ago reminding me that I haven't posted anything in a few weeks. So I decided that the first thing I had to place on the agenda today was to make a post or two showing that I have been active at something.
> I've had a lot going on, both in wood working, and personally. Between all that, I have turned a few pens. The problem with that is that some of them have been flying out the door before I can get a chance to snap photos of them. So let me show you the ones I do have photos of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had not planned on doing anything in deer antler after Christmas for a while. However, immediately after making that statement, several people started asking about when I'd be making more deer antler pens. Well, as I heard someone say once, sometimes we do the things we don't want to do, in order to be able to do the things we don't want to do. So, since some people are still wanting deer antler, I got busy turning deer antler.
> These six bolt action pens are about half of what I turned. The rest seemed to just disappear off the table before I could make boxes for them, or snap photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had two fifty caliber kits left and decided to do those in antler too. I had several short cutoffs of antler left that were perfect sized for these pens, but not much else. So the popularity of the antler created a means for not allowing those pieces to go to waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If any of you remember the story behind the enormous over and shotgun pen I done a while back in deer antler, the one I was told couldn't be done? Well I done two more of them. I made these just to see if I could, or if that first one was just a lucky shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are Compson click pens. They are actually two of a six piece starter package from Penn State. These are the only two I got photos of before they disappeared though. So I guess I need to order more of these when I can.
> These two are done in zebra wood cut at a forty five degree angle, and walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the last two of the credit card stylus pens I had left two make. These also seem to be popular pens. These are done in cherry burl and oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three more of the buffalo pencils. I liked the ones I've made of these before in burls, so I wanted to go with that. The fact that I love burl so much helped with that decision a tad as well I believe.
> These are done in cherry burl, oak burl, and buckeye burl.
> 
> That's what I have to show you in pens. I had a few real nice ones that I wish I had taken photos of before they left. I guess I need to start keeping the camera closer so I can be sure to do that.


Nice looking pens! Glad to know you're kept busy.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Flying Pens*
> 
> I received an email a couple of days ago reminding me that I haven't posted anything in a few weeks. So I decided that the first thing I had to place on the agenda today was to make a post or two showing that I have been active at something.
> I've had a lot going on, both in wood working, and personally. Between all that, I have turned a few pens. The problem with that is that some of them have been flying out the door before I can get a chance to snap photos of them. So let me show you the ones I do have photos of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had not planned on doing anything in deer antler after Christmas for a while. However, immediately after making that statement, several people started asking about when I'd be making more deer antler pens. Well, as I heard someone say once, sometimes we do the things we don't want to do, in order to be able to do the things we don't want to do. So, since some people are still wanting deer antler, I got busy turning deer antler.
> These six bolt action pens are about half of what I turned. The rest seemed to just disappear off the table before I could make boxes for them, or snap photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had two fifty caliber kits left and decided to do those in antler too. I had several short cutoffs of antler left that were perfect sized for these pens, but not much else. So the popularity of the antler created a means for not allowing those pieces to go to waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If any of you remember the story behind the enormous over and shotgun pen I done a while back in deer antler, the one I was told couldn't be done? Well I done two more of them. I made these just to see if I could, or if that first one was just a lucky shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are Compson click pens. They are actually two of a six piece starter package from Penn State. These are the only two I got photos of before they disappeared though. So I guess I need to order more of these when I can.
> These two are done in zebra wood cut at a forty five degree angle, and walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the last two of the credit card stylus pens I had left two make. These also seem to be popular pens. These are done in cherry burl and oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three more of the buffalo pencils. I liked the ones I've made of these before in burls, so I wanted to go with that. The fact that I love burl so much helped with that decision a tad as well I believe.
> These are done in cherry burl, oak burl, and buckeye burl.
> 
> That's what I have to show you in pens. I had a few real nice ones that I wish I had taken photos of before they left. I guess I need to start keeping the camera closer so I can be sure to do that.


Thank you all.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Flying Pens*
> 
> I received an email a couple of days ago reminding me that I haven't posted anything in a few weeks. So I decided that the first thing I had to place on the agenda today was to make a post or two showing that I have been active at something.
> I've had a lot going on, both in wood working, and personally. Between all that, I have turned a few pens. The problem with that is that some of them have been flying out the door before I can get a chance to snap photos of them. So let me show you the ones I do have photos of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had not planned on doing anything in deer antler after Christmas for a while. However, immediately after making that statement, several people started asking about when I'd be making more deer antler pens. Well, as I heard someone say once, sometimes we do the things we don't want to do, in order to be able to do the things we don't want to do. So, since some people are still wanting deer antler, I got busy turning deer antler.
> These six bolt action pens are about half of what I turned. The rest seemed to just disappear off the table before I could make boxes for them, or snap photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had two fifty caliber kits left and decided to do those in antler too. I had several short cutoffs of antler left that were perfect sized for these pens, but not much else. So the popularity of the antler created a means for not allowing those pieces to go to waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If any of you remember the story behind the enormous over and shotgun pen I done a while back in deer antler, the one I was told couldn't be done? Well I done two more of them. I made these just to see if I could, or if that first one was just a lucky shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are Compson click pens. They are actually two of a six piece starter package from Penn State. These are the only two I got photos of before they disappeared though. So I guess I need to order more of these when I can.
> These two are done in zebra wood cut at a forty five degree angle, and walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the last two of the credit card stylus pens I had left two make. These also seem to be popular pens. These are done in cherry burl and oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three more of the buffalo pencils. I liked the ones I've made of these before in burls, so I wanted to go with that. The fact that I love burl so much helped with that decision a tad as well I believe.
> These are done in cherry burl, oak burl, and buckeye burl.
> 
> That's what I have to show you in pens. I had a few real nice ones that I wish I had taken photos of before they left. I guess I need to start keeping the camera closer so I can be sure to do that.


William, More beautiful pens and pencils from your talented hands! Good to see that they are disappearing as fase as you can make them. I too am determined that my woodworking hobby pay its own way.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Flying Pens*
> 
> I received an email a couple of days ago reminding me that I haven't posted anything in a few weeks. So I decided that the first thing I had to place on the agenda today was to make a post or two showing that I have been active at something.
> I've had a lot going on, both in wood working, and personally. Between all that, I have turned a few pens. The problem with that is that some of them have been flying out the door before I can get a chance to snap photos of them. So let me show you the ones I do have photos of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had not planned on doing anything in deer antler after Christmas for a while. However, immediately after making that statement, several people started asking about when I'd be making more deer antler pens. Well, as I heard someone say once, sometimes we do the things we don't want to do, in order to be able to do the things we don't want to do. So, since some people are still wanting deer antler, I got busy turning deer antler.
> These six bolt action pens are about half of what I turned. The rest seemed to just disappear off the table before I could make boxes for them, or snap photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had two fifty caliber kits left and decided to do those in antler too. I had several short cutoffs of antler left that were perfect sized for these pens, but not much else. So the popularity of the antler created a means for not allowing those pieces to go to waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If any of you remember the story behind the enormous over and shotgun pen I done a while back in deer antler, the one I was told couldn't be done? Well I done two more of them. I made these just to see if I could, or if that first one was just a lucky shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are Compson click pens. They are actually two of a six piece starter package from Penn State. These are the only two I got photos of before they disappeared though. So I guess I need to order more of these when I can.
> These two are done in zebra wood cut at a forty five degree angle, and walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the last two of the credit card stylus pens I had left two make. These also seem to be popular pens. These are done in cherry burl and oak burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made three more of the buffalo pencils. I liked the ones I've made of these before in burls, so I wanted to go with that. The fact that I love burl so much helped with that decision a tad as well I believe.
> These are done in cherry burl, oak burl, and buckeye burl.
> 
> That's what I have to show you in pens. I had a few real nice ones that I wish I had taken photos of before they left. I guess I need to start keeping the camera closer so I can be sure to do that.


Andy, I could only dream that my wood habit payed for itself. 
I am so deep in the red that I may never see black again. 
I can hope though.

Thank you.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Tool Addiction*

This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.








I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies. 
I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.








Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care. 








Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on. 
The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.








Now back to the lathe. 
Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges. 
The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans. 
If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
.
The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
.
The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.








This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here. 
I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand. 
I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools. 
So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.








Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it. 
Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.








So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel. 
The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
Now, back to the tool review.
The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel. 
If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew. 
Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew. 
.
So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques. 
.
Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Tool Addiction*
> 
> This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies.
> I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on.
> The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the lathe.
> Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
> I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges.
> The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans.
> If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
> .
> The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
> Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
> .
> The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
> Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
> The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here.
> I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand.
> I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools.
> So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
> Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
> Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
> In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it.
> Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
> Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
> This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel.
> The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
> Now, back to the tool review.
> The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel.
> If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew.
> Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew.
> .
> So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


That was a very interesting read.

I've been reading up on all things "turning", lathe tools, techniques and such.
This is in an attempt to edumacate myself, prior to actually firing up the lathe, let alone put tool to wood.
What I have found is that "personal preference" is a constant theme. Thanks for supplying your "personal opinion" regarding your "personal preferences". I do value your opinion, as you "tell it like it is"!!!

Your "ramblings" are always insightful! Please continue….


----------



## lightcs1776

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Tool Addiction*
> 
> This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies.
> I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on.
> The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the lathe.
> Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
> I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges.
> The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans.
> If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
> .
> The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
> Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
> .
> The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
> Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
> The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here.
> I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand.
> I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools.
> So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
> Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
> Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
> In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it.
> Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
> Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
> This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel.
> The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
> Now, back to the tool review.
> The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel.
> If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew.
> Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew.
> .
> So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


Really good information in your review. I'm very budget minded, so one tool seems like a better deal than paying for three. However, I also realize that with most multifunction tools, it's a "jack of all, master of none" situation. Once again, you've provided the necessary information to help folks like myself make good purchasing decisions.


----------



## doubleDD

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Tool Addiction*
> 
> This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies.
> I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on.
> The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the lathe.
> Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
> I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges.
> The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans.
> If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
> .
> The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
> Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
> .
> The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
> Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
> The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here.
> I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand.
> I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools.
> So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
> Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
> Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
> In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it.
> Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
> Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
> This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel.
> The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
> Now, back to the tool review.
> The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel.
> If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew.
> Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew.
> .
> So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


Your version of the Versa -chisels is in my opinion pretty much on the head. It can perform a lot of different techniques but using a specific tool for a specific turning has better results. I'm with you. Thanks for sharing your review.


----------



## SCOTSMAN

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Tool Addiction*
> 
> This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies.
> I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on.
> The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the lathe.
> Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
> I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges.
> The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans.
> If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
> .
> The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
> Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
> .
> The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
> Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
> The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here.
> I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand.
> I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools.
> So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
> Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
> Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
> In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it.
> Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
> Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
> This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel.
> The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
> Now, back to the tool review.
> The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel.
> If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew.
> Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew.
> .
> So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


I would stongly advise you to learn to sharpen your tools yourself .Never mind sending tools back to sorby that's a new one on me.If it is useable straight out of the box or not in my opinion doesn't matter one little fig,as you will need to sharpen very regularily anyway I sharpen my tools all the time and don't worry about it sorby are as good as any of the others but then the recognised brands of HSS steel should all be good record tools crown etc etc. Alistair


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Tool Addiction*
> 
> This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies.
> I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on.
> The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the lathe.
> Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
> I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges.
> The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans.
> If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
> .
> The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
> Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
> .
> The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
> Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
> The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here.
> I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand.
> I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools.
> So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
> Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
> Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
> In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it.
> Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
> Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
> This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel.
> The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
> Now, back to the tool review.
> The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel.
> If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew.
> Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew.
> .
> So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


Interesting stuff William. I'm not much of a wood turner, but know just enough to be dangerous….anyways, awhile back, a friend borrowed me a Sorby Spindelmaster and I fell in love with it. Later I bought one for myself when it went on sale. Can't remember what I paid, but it was still expensive on sale! I wasn't aware that PSI offered the Versa-chisels, otherwise I would definitely consider these instead.

To your point, these tools are handy for people learning to turn and haven't mastered the skew chisel (which is me!).

Also - here is a picture of the 3/4" Sorby tool for comparison….


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Tool Addiction*
> 
> This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies.
> I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on.
> The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the lathe.
> Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
> I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges.
> The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans.
> If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
> .
> The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
> Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
> .
> The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
> Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
> The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here.
> I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand.
> I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools.
> So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
> Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
> Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
> In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it.
> Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
> Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
> This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel.
> The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
> Now, back to the tool review.
> The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel.
> If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew.
> Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew.
> .
> So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


Thank you all for your comments. 
I don't think I out down the versa chisels or the spindle master in my post, but I'd like to repeat anyway. They are good tools for beginners, or really just a good tool to have at your disposal. 
Since I'm a tool junky anyway, I can never have too many options. 
I just simply think I get a better cut with my separate tools. 
You do not send the spindle master back for sharpening, only if you damage the bevel. Maybe I did not make that clear. The proper sharpening method for these tools is to lay them flat on the top of the tool and sharpen. It's sort of like flattening the top of a bench chisel. That is supposed to reintroduce a sharp edge. Does this method work? Time will tell. 
Jeff, thank you for the comparison photo. It looks like I may want to polish mine up a bit more, but I think they are good enough for now.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Tool Addiction*
> 
> This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies.
> I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on.
> The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the lathe.
> Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
> I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges.
> The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans.
> If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
> .
> The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
> Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
> .
> The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
> Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
> The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here.
> I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand.
> I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools.
> So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
> Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
> Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
> In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it.
> Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
> Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
> This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel.
> The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
> Now, back to the tool review.
> The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel.
> If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew.
> Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew.
> .
> So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


Dang William, This blog was about 2 thing I know nothing about: planes and lathe tools! But I studied all of it in hopes you would convince me to "expand my horizons". Not there yet.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Tool Addiction*
> 
> This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies.
> I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on.
> The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the lathe.
> Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
> I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges.
> The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans.
> If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
> .
> The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
> Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
> .
> The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
> Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
> The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here.
> I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand.
> I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools.
> So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
> Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
> Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
> In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it.
> Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
> Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
> This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel.
> The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
> Now, back to the tool review.
> The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel.
> If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew.
> Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew.
> .
> So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


The lathe I recommend you not try. 
Seriously, if you aren't interested now, it is a slippery slope.

Oh, I forgot. 
Hand planes are a slippery slope too!
Never mind.

Thank you.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Tool Addiction*
> 
> This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies.
> I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on.
> The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the lathe.
> Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
> I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges.
> The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans.
> If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
> .
> The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
> Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
> .
> The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
> Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
> The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here.
> I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand.
> I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools.
> So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
> Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
> Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
> In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it.
> Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
> Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
> This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel.
> The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
> Now, back to the tool review.
> The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel.
> If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew.
> Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew.
> .
> So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


William, The sawmill is keeping me interested for now. I haven't sawed anything that looks like you would want it but I'm looking for burls!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Tool Addiction*
> 
> This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies.
> I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on.
> The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the lathe.
> Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
> I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges.
> The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans.
> If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
> .
> The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
> Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
> .
> The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
> Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
> The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here.
> I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand.
> I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools.
> So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
> Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
> Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
> In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it.
> Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
> Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
> This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel.
> The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
> Now, back to the tool review.
> The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel.
> If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew.
> Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew.
> .
> So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


Burls. 
You said the magic word. 
I love burls.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Tool Addiction*
> 
> This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies.
> I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on.
> The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the lathe.
> Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
> I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges.
> The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans.
> If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
> .
> The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
> Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
> .
> The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
> Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
> The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here.
> I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand.
> I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools.
> So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
> Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
> Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
> In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it.
> Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
> Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
> This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel.
> The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
> Now, back to the tool review.
> The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel.
> If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew.
> Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew.
> .
> So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


William, Another real good rambling. I was able to just recently pick up a used spindle master at a real low price I have used it once and I am still looking to get a better feel for it. All good info though as I am in need of replacing my tools since I am trying to sell my old lathe and at this time have included the tools that came with it. Older Craftsman tools, which I like so trying to find similar tools as replacements.

CtL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Tool Addiction*
> 
> This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies.
> I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on.
> The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the lathe.
> Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
> I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges.
> The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans.
> If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
> .
> The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
> Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
> .
> The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
> Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
> The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here.
> I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand.
> I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools.
> So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
> Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
> Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
> In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it.
> Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
> Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
> This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel.
> The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
> Now, back to the tool review.
> The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel.
> If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew.
> Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew.
> .
> So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


Chris, the tools I just bought are replacements for some new/old craftsman tools. 
I lucked up on a set that had been sitting on the back of a shelf in Sears for years. 
It was found after the brand had discontinued the set years prior. 
So they sold it cheap to get rid of it. 
They still have some life left in them, but they are getting shorter. Some real good Steele. The metal seems to be harder than anything I purchase new.

I have noticed that I can tell the difference in Steele harness when I sharpen different tools. 
Real good Steele just has a different feel and sound when you put it to the grinding wheel. 
It sounds more solid. 
Is this true for others? Or just my imagination?


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Tool Addiction*
> 
> This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies.
> I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on.
> The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the lathe.
> Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
> I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges.
> The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans.
> If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
> .
> The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
> Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
> .
> The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
> Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
> The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here.
> I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand.
> I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools.
> So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
> Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
> Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
> In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it.
> Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
> Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
> This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel.
> The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
> Now, back to the tool review.
> The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel.
> If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew.
> Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew.
> .
> So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


William, My set was from the mid-80s and honestly it is the only set of tools that I have used. I do have a set of Sorby tools that we got during and online Black Friday sale a few years ago but I really have not liked using them as I prefer the midsize tools. I have had goo success in sharpening the Sears ones.

In my day job a we go through a lot of mower blades, the blades are changed and sharpened once a week. I will tell you this the blades I have bought in the last 2 years suck, the steel is absolute crap. It is all coming from plants over seas, I would hope the tool steel that they are using is better but I am not sure.

CtL


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Tool Addiction*
> 
> This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies.
> I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on.
> The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the lathe.
> Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
> I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges.
> The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans.
> If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
> .
> The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
> Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
> .
> The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
> Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
> The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here.
> I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand.
> I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools.
> So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
> Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
> Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
> In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it.
> Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
> Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
> This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel.
> The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
> Now, back to the tool review.
> The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel.
> If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew.
> Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew.
> .
> So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


Thanks for another informative analysis.

A week after I started turning, I was lucky to spend a day with Bonnie Klein who does a lot of AAW seminars. She suggested getting unhandled Benjamin's Best tools and turn your own handles to save money; she really liked the quality.

I use the Oneway sharpening system sharpening system and the Raptor setup tools to get the right angle. The raptor tools are one of the world's greatest inventions for someone who's learning how to sharpen. If you can set up fast, you're less likely to skip sharpening with potentially disastrous results. I have two wheels now and it's even easier.

Learning to use the skew can save on a lot of sanding. I remember the first time I turned something that didn't need sanding. I'll never forget it.

I'm tempted to try a Sorby to compare to my Henry Taylor tools. I have some special tools that I really don't like, like a skoochigouge (I think that's how it spelled) that is sort of spoon shaped which was interesting to use, but I don't have a clue have a clue how to sharpen it. Another one is an oval shaped skew that I just can't get the hang of. I don't need any bead and cove tools because a spindle gouge works great with minimal practice. I do like a captive ring tool that I have, but I expect to learn how to do it with regular tools.

Anyone who promises magical results is just a snake oil salesman. I like Chris's very appropriate reference to "jack of all trades, master of none". The basic turning tools have been around for many hundreds of years and I'll stick to them.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Tool Addiction*
> 
> This post is supposed to be about lathe tools. I will start off a tiny bit sidetracked though, if for no other reason but to get the admission of my addiction out in the open beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use them as much as I'd like to, but I do have a thing for hand planes. This is funny, since I used to poke fun at a few of my friends about their own hand plane addiction tendencies. These days, I cannot force myself to pass up a flea market booth or yard sale if my eyes a glimpse of rusty gold. I have a few, and am always looking for good deals, or simply one I don't already have. I do wish to point out though, I do not buy wall hangers. If I see a plane that is so far gone that it cannot be brought back to working order, or I can't get it cheap enough to make it valuable in parts, then I leave it where it lies.
> I am a man who once said he hated hand planes. Now, although I mostly work on the lathe these days, some of you may remember from some time back that I do work on things not related to turning. All that being said, although I don't claim to be a strictly hand tool kind of guy, I do find a certain relaxation, an almost zen like appeal, to turning off the electron killers from time to time and simply listening to the whisping noise that a well tuned plane makes as it does its work on a piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my latest acquisition. My son brought it too me this past Saturday. It is an old number eight, or so I am told. I have not had time yet to break it down to do any research on it or sharpen it. Just the way I received it though, it created a six foot long paper thin ribbon as wide as the blade on a scrap piece of cottonwood. I look forward to seeing what it can do once I get time to give it a little tender loving care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of sharpening, I gave up on the stone racks I made to clamp in vices and finally just screwed them to the edge of one of my benches. This will eliminate the time it usually takes me to set everything up just so I can begin sharpening tools. I came to this decision one day while I thought about the time it was going to take me to set them up for sharpening my skew chisel for my lathe. Most lathe tools are sharpened on a grinder. There are a few though, like the skew, that I like to put a fine polished edge on.
> The need for these will also be explained a little later in a tool review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the lathe.
> Did I say I had a tool addiction? Nah! I did actually need some new tools for the lathe.
> I consider myself still a beginner at the lathe, but I am always learning more. In that learning process, I have worn away quite a bit of material from my gouges while learning to properly sharpen them, and while finding that perfect bevel angle for my liking. It was getting to a point that I was choking the jig up mighty close to the handle while sharpening, so it was time for some replacements of my most used spindle gouges.
> The first two tools to the left are replacements for my old Craftsman half inch and three eighths spindle gouges. I bought the Benjamin's Best gouges from Penn State. I sharpened them up and took them for a test drive. I am quite happy that they will perform fine for me. Time will tell, but I may even venture to say that they are better than my old Craftsmans.
> If you need links, here is the half inch, and here is the three eighths.
> .
> The third tool is a quarter inch gouge from Hurricane tools. I have been thinking of getting a quarter inch gouge for some time My old Craftsman set came with the two gouges I mentioned earlier, and a three quarter inch. The thing is, the largest of the set mostly collects dust, while I often find myself wishing I had something smaller than the smallest of the set. So a quarter inch model was the obvious next step.
> Since the quarter inch gouge at Penn State has been out of stock for some time, I decided to look elsewhere to find one. I ordered the Hurricane here from Amazon.
> .
> The fourth tool is a quarter inch bowl gouge. I have had the same issue discussed earlier with bowls, I wanted a smaller gouge. So I figured that, while I was ordering tools, I may as well let it get out of hand and go for the bowl gouge as well.
> Again, the quarter inch bowl gouge at Penn State was out of stock, so I ordered the this Crown brand from Amazon.
> The next three tools are Versa-Chisels, which I will discuss after the next photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the three piece set of Versa-Chisels. They can be found here.
> I hate to describe it as "many", but I have lost track of the times I have been asked about these, the Sorby Spindlemaster, or other similar tools. So I started doing some reading up on them. From what I read, I realized that the best opinions of these types tools were related to the Sorby brand.
> I do not wish to talk bad about Sorby tools, because I have never as much as touched one of their tools. The simple fact of the matter is that I am on a tight budget and simply cannot afford their fine tools.
> So I read a little deeper, trying top find out if there really was a difference between Sorby's brand and others like it. The big difference I read about was the out of the box condition of them. The Sorby brand, from what I read, comes from the box ready to be put to wood. It is sharpened and polished. To sharpen it, you only hit the top, flat edge on a diamond stone to represent a fresh cutting edge. As a matter of fact, it is suggested that you never touch the bevel on a Sorby Spindlemaster. If the bevel needs sharpened, such as if it was dropped, you are supposed to send it back to Sorby to be repaired. Other tools though, not so much.
> Anyway, I went with the Penn State version called the Versa-Chisel. I bought the three piece set so I could get a good idea of the overall usefulness of the tool style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, with the reading and understanding of this tool that I have done, it was my opinion that the finish on the Versa-Chisel is indeed unusable. To test this theory, I tried it right out of the box. It was a scraper. That is the best way I know to describe it. I just simply could not get it to perform the way I believed this tool was supposed to.
> Next, and this explains the use of my sharpening stones I showed earlier, I decided I was going to need a similar angle (thirty degrees) and polishing, like the Spindlemaster.
> In the above photo, the left Versa-Chisel is how it looks out of the box. The right one is one after I spent about an hour sharpening and polishing it.
> Now I must stop here and tell you, I was told that it was impossible to polish these up to a usable state. So everything I say from this point forward may be completely wrong. If you believe that to be the case, please recognize this as my own opinion and stop reading now. While I am not saying my now doctored tools is as good or even comparable to the more expensive Sorby brand tool, I am saying that I believe some time working the edge has brought it to a point that I can honestly give my opinion of the usefulness of this style tool, and that is all I am really trying to do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spending several hours working the edge of the three Versa-Chisels, I put a piece of scrap wood between centers and went for a new test drive.
> Here is where my opinion of this style tool gets kind of shady. Please let me explain.
> This tool has been explained to me many times as a tool that magically gives some people the power to no longer have the need to learn to use an actual skew chisel. So let me start there and give you my opinion of a skew chisel.
> The skew chisel, in my opinion and the opinion of just about every piece of literature I've ever read on the subject, is the hardest of the lathe tools to learn. The one and only trick to it is practice, practice, practice, and then when you think you have, practice some more. It is an essential tool at my lathe, but one that will only you will only learn the usefulness of when you learn to use it properly. Until you learn to use it properly, it will aggravate you. I like a challenge though. I went through a phase where I decided I did not need a skew. Then one day I made up my mind that a tool was not going to beat me, and set my mind to learning it. I suggest anyone who wants to turn much to do the same.
> Now, back to the tool review.
> The Versa-Chisel is advertised to perform as a chisel, a gouge, and a scraper, all in one tool. While it does do all of that, it does none of them (again, in my opinion) as well as an actual chisel, gouge or scraper. Yes, it is a good tool to have in your arsenal of options to do projects with. I do not ever though see it replacing my favorite gouge, scraper, or especially, my skew chisel.
> If you are interested in this type tool, I absolutely think they are worth buying. It is an interesting concept. You could, if you wish, grab one tool and make whatever spindle turning you wish with that one tool. That is where it gets grey for me. While I think it is a great tool, I do not think it is as great or magical as I have been told. I still do not see myself ever doing anything with just this one tool. If I want rough and quick rounding, I'll get my gouge. If I want to gently scrap off a tiny amount of a surface, I'll grab my scraper. If I want a fine cut, I'll grab my freshly sharpened skew.
> Now, about that idea of this replacing the skew for people who have trouble with the skew. I can see where that idea comes from. It does not seem to grab quite as badly or as quickly as a skew would if you roll it too much one way or the other. However, to get a good clean cut, I needed to execute my technique just as I would a skew. If anyone can get a clean cut with a Versa-Chisel, then I believe they are well on their way to knowing how to use a skew.
> .
> So, in reviewing my long winded rambling way of telling things, my review of the Versa-Chisels are mixed. It is a good tool to have. I would absolutely recommend it to some people, especially beginners who don't have a wide variety of tools or experience with those tools. Would I say it is a replacement for other tools and proper techniques? I don't think there is a such thing as replacement for proper tools and techniques.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!!!


Thank you doe. 
I too like the traditional tools more. 
I have heard of the skewchigouge. I had heard more about the spindle master though. So that's the "multi function" tool I decided to try. 
I have a square skew and an oval skew. I find it interesting that you don't like the oval skew, and further proof that there are no written in stone rules when it comes to turning. I prefer my oval skew.

I will check out the raptor setup tools as soon as I can.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Making Tools - Part 1*

This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.








First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold. 
I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.








So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on. 
Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.








Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine. 
So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.








First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length. 
I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any. 
Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done. 
To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.








I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side. 
The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.








The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly. 
They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works. 
I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.








The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.








Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.








Next up is the forty five degree tool. 
This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
All these issues can be overcome though. 
The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.








Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it. 
Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.









Always expect the unexpected. 
Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did. 
So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
.
Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
.
Forty to sixty dollars.
What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
Specialized machine? It's a hole.
Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
.
So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
It looked like a fancy metal lathe.








I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.








So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
Now we are cooking with grease.








Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.








All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
.
I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


----------



## KTMM

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


William the toolmaker. That looks great…


----------



## wooded

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


Nice presentation William. Thanks! ;-j


----------



## lightcs1776

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


William, that is excellent information. I really don't get all the different tools yet, but can't see spending a bundle on something I could make. Will any lathe work for the pen tool or does it require a certain quality lathe? Also, if you'll forgive my ignorance, what are these particular tools used for on the lathe?


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


Nice write up!!!
I get the "machining" part of this build, so far!
What I don't know, amongst a myriad of other things is, what do you use these tools for, when turning wood???
Yup, a newbie question!

I will definitely be following along as you progress through this tool manufacturing manifest!!!

Carry on….


----------



## lightcs1776

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


Funny, Randy. I asked the same question on his blog. It was a great and informative write up.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


Thank you all for your comments.

As to what these tools are for, they are for turning. Specifically, turning bowls and other hollow vessels. 
The name Oland came from the guy who was known as the creator of these type tools, Knud Oland. They are meant to be tools that one can make on their own with simple tools you find around the shop. Usually, it is simply a handle, with a shaft, and some way to attach a high speed or hard steele bit. These bits can be interchanged with other bits that are used on the lathe.
I like them a lot for hollowing deep bowls. They do great at getting way over the tool rest without as much chatter or catch as a traditional gouge or scraper. Don't let the small size of the bits fools you though (1/4"). The little I have used these type tools, they throw some shavings!
As I go through this demonstrative series, I will also show how the bits are held in, and how I make the bits. The bits though are a whole topic in and of itself. They can be made of pretty much anything you wish to try. Since they are quickly made and interchangeable, you don't lose much time or material by experimenting with anything. I've seen bits made from old drill bits, old files, nails heated and shaped into ring type tools, and all sorts of things. The possibilities are endless, and it is designed not to cost a bundle.


----------



## lightcs1776

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


Thanks for the explanation. I think I will be making these in the future.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


If you look towards the bottom of this article, there are links to some videos of the Oland tool in action.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


im glad to see your busy with this, yea its cold out brother, today was great 65…tomorrow will be in the high 20's and maybe snow and then come saturday we will be back in the 60 with rain…im glad this cold stuff will be done …im ready for some good ole warm air….i always enjoy learning …and you always do a good job at teaching, hey i did do a little mechanic work today, got a new fuel line in my chainsaw, now it run great, was a bit challenging..so now im a pro…lol…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


Thanks Grizz.

I wish sometimes I still had a gas powered chain saw. I had one, but would throw my back out trying to crank it. So I wound up getting a little electric one for what small tasks I may use one for. So far it has done what I needed it to, but I do sometimes miss the power of a gas powered one.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


That is fascinating. I'm really shocked at the $40-60 though. I'm looking forward to the next part.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


Thank you doe. 
That price shocked me too. 
I think the guy on the other end of the phone was purposely overpricing just so he wouldn't have to mess with such a small task. 
That's ok though. It gave me the incentive to figure out a way to do it myself.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


Oh, and I learned that my lathe doubles as a highly specialized piece of equipment called a horizontal boring machine. 
Whodathunkit?


----------



## zoraxx

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


very nice


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


William, I'm all about shop made tools and yours are always well thought out. One thought: I use "tap and die cutting oil when drilling steel and it has made a big difference in the number of bits I break or "cook". I'm sure you have that drill slowed down as much as you can?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


Thanks Andy. 
Yes, the bit was going slow. This is not the first time I've broken bits on forty five degree holes though. It catches sometimes when exiting the other side and snaps. I'm actually glad it snaps. I had a half inch diameter bit one time that done this, snatched the steel I was drilling through, broke the clamp, spun it, and hit my wrist so hard that I thought it had broke my wrist. 1/4" bits are cheap compared to the price of being whacked with a hunk of steel.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


I love to see someone making tools. Nice job William.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 1*
> 
> This post is about making tools. It will be several parts to it. With cold fronts moving through the area, I simply am not able to get out to the shop to do as much as I'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, this is what I've been using to insert tubes into pens that I make. It is the nozzle that comes with certain tubes, such as automotive silicone. It has worked well, but I've been wanting something better. Mostly, I just wanted something with a handle to make it easier to hold.
> I seen this tool in the Penn State catalogue. If you read my blog regularly though, you know I hate buying a tool, no matter what the cost, if I can make it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I chucked a piece of half inch steel rod in my chuck on the lathe. Some time with a file, and I had a tool that seems to work well on all the tubes I had available on hand to check it on.
> Then I used a piece of cocobola I had to make a nice handle for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember the Oland style tools I made a while back. Well, I have gotten a few questions in my email from time to time about them. There are several articles online that I've been directing people to. Well I was recently contacted by a far away friend who wants some of these tools but does not have a fully equipped shop in order to make them. This helps me out because I can help a friend and, since I did not take photos while making my set, can take lots of photos to be able to show people how I made mine.
> So if you're interested in making some of these, follow along in the next few installments while I make a set for my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing is to cut some steel rod to length. The length is a matter of preference. There are a couple of factors to consider. Take your favorite tool. Measure the length of the over all tool. Then measure the shaft length that sticks out of that tool. Now, through trial and error, or simply an educated guess, figure out how far into a handle you can drill a hole the proper size for your shafts. Add the shaft length to that depth, and you have your overall shaft length.
> I'll need three shafts. My set is a four piece set. I have an idea though to turn the two forty five degree tools into one single tool. I will get to that in a later installment. If it works, great. If not, I'll have to cut the end off and make another one. For now though, I just need three shafts.
> The shafts I cut are fourteen inches long. I may have to shorten these a bit later for my handle to make them so I know my friend will be happy. For now though, I'd rather have them long than short. I can remove some length later, but I won't be able to add any.
> Let me stop right there and say this. Every step you see me do with making these tools are only the way that I do it. There are endless ways you could do the exact things I am going to do and still get the job done.
> To cut the shafts to length, I simply clamp a five eighths thick cold rolled steel rod into a vise. Then I used a hacksaw and tape measure and went at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting with the ninety degree tool, because it is easiest to drill the hole. It simple goes through the side.
> The first thing I have to do is make a jig to hold the rod. It is simply a block of wood cut on the table saw to allow the rod to lie in. They make drill press vices that would make this jig unnecessary. My drill press vise stays set up to drill pen blanks though. It is quicker to me just to cut a temporary jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I'll need is oil. Anytime you cut metal with a drill bit, you need oil. You can drill it without oil, but you'll burn up your bit quickly.
> They actually make special cutting oils for drilling. I've used other oils though through the years. Anything that keeps the bit lubricated and cooled will work. My preference is Marvel Mystery Oil. Why? Because I've used it a lot in the past and it works.
> I have an old small bottle that had 3-In-One oil in it that I keep refilling with the Marvel Oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing I use is a center punch. I suggest always making a divit with a center punch when drilling through anything that is not flat, such as this rod. If you don't, there is a good chance your bit will "walk" when you start drilling. This can cause your bit to break.
> When drilling, keep your hole filled with oil. Just back your bit out often and put a few drops down the hole. Drill slowly. Using this method, I usually wind up somehow breaking my smaller bits, like this quarter inch I'm using here, before I dull a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy does it and you get a quarter inch hole.
> There's still more to do to this, and all the shafts I'll be drilling today. I'm just trying to get my quarter inch holes done today though. The more will come later. So I'll clean the oil off of it and set this shaft aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the forty five degree tool.
> This one is a little harder to drill. It is harder simply because the hole is drill at forty five degrees. The bit will have a tendency to skate down the shaft before cutting. It has to go further through the metal to make the hole all the way through. Then it has to come through the other side. This sometimes causes issues as the bit is free on one side of the cutting area while still grabbing on the other side of it.
> All these issues can be overcome though.
> The first thing I do is clamp the shaft in the vise. I use an angle grinder to flatten a small area at a forty five degree angle. It doesn't have to be a lot of material removed, only enough to give the bit enough flat surface to start on so it doesn't skate down the shaft. Once it starts, the hole itself will keep it going the direction it needs to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I have to get creative at the drill press in order to drill it.
> Again, you can use a drill press vise for this operation if you have one. I just added forty five degree blocks under the temporary jig I made before. Then I use a C-clamp to hold the shaft to the jig so it doesn't try to slide downward as I'm drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always expect the unexpected.
> Remember what I said earlier about the bit grabbing on one side and not the other as it exits the forty five degree hole? Well sometimes it may grab enough to snap the bit right off like this one did.
> So I had to make a hardware store run for a new bit before continuing. I picked up three bits though. I keep extra bits around for common sizes such as this quarter inch. The one I snapped off just happened to be the last one I had on hand at the time.
> .
> Next up is the straight bit tool. I have been thinking about this one for several days now. The one I have is from another source. I did not make it. So I had to figure out a way to drill it. My drill press would drill it. I really did not wish though to remove my cabinet that is attached to my table that holds bits and such. It would simply be too much of a pain.
> So I called a local machine shop. I figured it may just be easier for me to carry it somewhere and get them to drill a simple hole for me.
> So I called them, explained what I wanted, and asked for a ball park figure on what it would cost me.
> .
> Forty to sixty dollars.
> What!? To drill a one inch deep hole in a shaft?
> Yes sir. We have to crank up a highly specialized machine to perform that operation.
> Specialized machine? It's a hole.
> Yes sir. It's a hole in the end of a shaft though. The only way we have to do that is a horizontal boring machine.
> Ok. Well thank you anyway, but I can't afford that.
> .
> So I hung up the phone a little frustrated. What in the world is a horizontal boring machine? And what is so specialized about it that it costs that much to drill a hole?
> So I went online to find out what this highly specialized machine called a horizontal boring machine was. Guess what I found?
> It looked like a fancy metal lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a horizontal boring machine, or even a not so fancy metal lathe. I do have a lathe though. I also have a drill chuck insert for my tail stock. Then I have a chuck to hold the shaft at the headstock end. I figured I could make a go of this.
> The problem I ran into was that a five eighths rod will not go all the way through my headstock spindle. So I had to just chuck it into the chuck, leaving a lot overhanging the bed. This left so much unsupported weight out there that it was just too much wobble to be drilled successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you remember the steady rests I made a while back?
> What to do with too much unsupported shaft? Set the steady rest close to the chuck end. Then slide it outwards and support the rod.
> Now we are cooking with grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was going nicely. About halfway through the one inch deep hole though, I started noticing a lot of smoke from my bit every time I'd retract it to clear the shavings. So I decided it was time to take a coffee break and allow my bit to cool completely before continuing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All went well from there and I got the hole bored, and without a horizontal boring machine.
> .
> I hope to run to town in the morning to pick up the set screws I forgot to get today. Then I will drill and tap holes for those.
> So if you're interested, stay tuned. I will continue posting the progress as I get it done. This, I hope, will answer any questions anyone has. At the very least it will give me somewhere to direct people people when they do have questions.


Thanks Dave.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Making Tools - Part 2*

Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.








The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.








So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks. 
Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.








Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with. 
The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.








I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.








The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.








The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.








Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.








Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool. 
This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.








Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.








The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits. 
I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.








You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits. 
I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.








A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.








This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend. 
I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
From left to right is:
1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.








All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.








Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole. 
My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows. 
The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press. 








To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.








After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking. 
So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.








After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it. 
This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.








So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.








UH OH!
I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.








Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
.
I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


----------



## sras

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 2*
> 
> Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
> My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks.
> Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with.
> The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
> I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool.
> This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits.
> I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits.
> I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
> You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend.
> I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
> From left to right is:
> 1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
> 2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
> 3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
> 4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
> 5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
> I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole.
> My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows.
> The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
> You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
> The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
> I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
> I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking.
> So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
> The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it.
> This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
> To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
> These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
> If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UH OH!
> I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
> Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
> Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
> So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
> .
> I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


These last two posts have been very interesting. I hope I need some tools like this someday (and remember to make my own…)


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 2*
> 
> Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
> My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks.
> Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with.
> The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
> I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool.
> This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits.
> I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits.
> I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
> You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend.
> I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
> From left to right is:
> 1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
> 2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
> 3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
> 4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
> 5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
> I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole.
> My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows.
> The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
> You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
> The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
> I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
> I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking.
> So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
> The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it.
> This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
> To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
> These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
> If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UH OH!
> I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
> Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
> Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
> So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
> .
> I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


Thanks Steve.
There have been many, many before me who've made similar tools. If I remember correctly, the man who thought of the design, Knud Oland, introduced them some time in the 70s. They aren't hard at all to make.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 2*
> 
> Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
> My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks.
> Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with.
> The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
> I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool.
> This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits.
> I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits.
> I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
> You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend.
> I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
> From left to right is:
> 1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
> 2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
> 3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
> 4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
> 5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
> I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole.
> My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows.
> The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
> You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
> The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
> I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
> I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking.
> So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
> The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it.
> This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
> To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
> These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
> If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UH OH!
> I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
> Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
> Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
> So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
> .
> I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


Good stuff William….never know, maybe someday I'll get the tuning bug…....


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 2*
> 
> Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
> My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks.
> Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with.
> The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
> I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool.
> This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits.
> I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits.
> I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
> You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend.
> I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
> From left to right is:
> 1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
> 2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
> 3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
> 4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
> 5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
> I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole.
> My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows.
> The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
> You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
> The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
> I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
> I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking.
> So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
> The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it.
> This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
> To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
> These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
> If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UH OH!
> I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
> Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
> Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
> So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
> .
> I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


Just what I expected….
A well written, detailed tutorial in the making of tools!

You make it look like a relatively easy build. I can see me doing this.

Thanks for taking the time to photograph and write up the process!!!


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 2*
> 
> Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
> My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks.
> Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with.
> The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
> I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool.
> This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits.
> I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits.
> I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
> You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend.
> I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
> From left to right is:
> 1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
> 2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
> 3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
> 4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
> 5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
> I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole.
> My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows.
> The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
> You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
> The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
> I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
> I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking.
> So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
> The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it.
> This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
> To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
> These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
> If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UH OH!
> I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
> Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
> Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
> So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
> .
> I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


Wow! they look great! I'm really enjoying seeing how you're making them.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 2*
> 
> Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
> My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks.
> Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with.
> The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
> I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool.
> This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits.
> I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits.
> I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
> You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend.
> I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
> From left to right is:
> 1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
> 2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
> 3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
> 4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
> 5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
> I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole.
> My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows.
> The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
> You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
> The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
> I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
> I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking.
> So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
> The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it.
> This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
> To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
> These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
> If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UH OH!
> I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
> Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
> Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
> So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
> .
> I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


Thank you all.


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 2*
> 
> Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
> My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks.
> Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with.
> The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
> I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool.
> This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits.
> I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits.
> I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
> You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend.
> I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
> From left to right is:
> 1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
> 2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
> 3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
> 4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
> 5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
> I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole.
> My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows.
> The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
> You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
> The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
> I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
> I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking.
> So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
> The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it.
> This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
> To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
> These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
> If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UH OH!
> I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
> Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
> Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
> So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
> .
> I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


The main reason for the ferrules is this, it holds the ends of the wood together around the shaft to keep it from splitting! It also adds decoration to it. You can cut a short piece of copper tubing of appropriate diameter and use it for "cheap" ferrules!

Good instructions there, William!


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 2*
> 
> Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
> My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks.
> Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with.
> The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
> I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool.
> This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits.
> I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits.
> I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
> You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend.
> I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
> From left to right is:
> 1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
> 2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
> 3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
> 4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
> 5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
> I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole.
> My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows.
> The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
> You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
> The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
> I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
> I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking.
> So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
> The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it.
> This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
> To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
> These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
> If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UH OH!
> I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
> Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
> Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
> So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
> .
> I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


really good job here william, many will benifit from this..we ended up getting about 2 1/2 inches of snow here, our county roads have been closed since yesterday…and as you might have seen , birmingham was and is still a big mess, we will be in the high 60's come saturday and maybe some rain…lol…feast to famine…of coarse we just stayed put…enjoying watching it snow…, i hope your warm and dry, and stay put until its safe….


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 2*
> 
> Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
> My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks.
> Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with.
> The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
> I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool.
> This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits.
> I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits.
> I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
> You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend.
> I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
> From left to right is:
> 1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
> 2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
> 3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
> 4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
> 5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
> I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole.
> My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows.
> The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
> You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
> The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
> I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
> I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking.
> So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
> The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it.
> This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
> To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
> These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
> If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UH OH!
> I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
> Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
> Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
> So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
> .
> I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


Nice tool builds William. It's always nice when you can make your own tools.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 2*
> 
> Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
> My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks.
> Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with.
> The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
> I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool.
> This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits.
> I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits.
> I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
> You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend.
> I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
> From left to right is:
> 1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
> 2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
> 3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
> 4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
> 5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
> I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole.
> My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows.
> The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
> You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
> The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
> I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
> I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking.
> So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
> The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it.
> This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
> To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
> These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
> If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UH OH!
> I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
> Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
> Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
> So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
> .
> I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


Thanks for the info Erwin.

Grizz, it didn't get as bad as they predicted here, but this is the south. Snow is snow. So I have been staying out and hugging to the wood heater at the shop as much as possible. The kids have been out of school. With Lisa working nights, it's easier for me to keep them from waking her by staying at the shop. 
Wasn't sure about lights staying on, so I made a huge pot of chili Monday night a that's what we've eaten the last two nights. I think if I add these beans I have on top of the heater right now, we can have chili tonight too.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 2*
> 
> Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
> My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks.
> Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with.
> The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
> I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool.
> This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits.
> I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits.
> I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
> You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend.
> I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
> From left to right is:
> 1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
> 2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
> 3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
> 4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
> 5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
> I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole.
> My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows.
> The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
> You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
> The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
> I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
> I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking.
> So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
> The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it.
> This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
> To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
> These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
> If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UH OH!
> I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
> Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
> Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
> So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
> .
> I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


Thank you roger.


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 2*
> 
> Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
> My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks.
> Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with.
> The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
> I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool.
> This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits.
> I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits.
> I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
> You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend.
> I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
> From left to right is:
> 1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
> 2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
> 3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
> 4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
> 5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
> I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole.
> My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows.
> The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
> You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
> The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
> I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
> I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking.
> So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
> The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it.
> This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
> To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
> These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
> If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UH OH!
> I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
> Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
> Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
> So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
> .
> I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


William now I am going to have to come over and see these in action.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 2*
> 
> Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
> My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks.
> Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with.
> The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
> I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool.
> This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits.
> I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits.
> I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
> You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend.
> I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
> From left to right is:
> 1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
> 2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
> 3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
> 4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
> 5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
> I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole.
> My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows.
> The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
> You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
> The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
> I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
> I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking.
> So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
> The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it.
> This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
> To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
> These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
> If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UH OH!
> I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
> Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
> Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
> So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
> .
> I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


Thanks Dave. 
I've had my oland tools for a while and will be glad to demonstrate them next time you're here. 
These exact ones in this blog however, you'd have to go a long ways to see in action. 
I made the other handle yesterday and packaged them up to go a looooooong ways north. 
They will be leaving Mississippi probably Monday.


----------



## mochoa

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 2*
> 
> Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
> My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks.
> Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with.
> The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
> I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool.
> This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits.
> I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits.
> I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
> You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend.
> I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
> From left to right is:
> 1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
> 2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
> 3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
> 4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
> 5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
> I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole.
> My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows.
> The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
> You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
> The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
> I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
> I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking.
> So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
> The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it.
> This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
> To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
> These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
> If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UH OH!
> I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
> Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
> Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
> So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
> .
> I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


wow thats really cool. Great metal working skills you have there.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Making Tools - Part 2*
> 
> Today is a continuation of making the Oland tools. If you read yesterday's blog, I was ready to drill and tap holes for set screws today.
> My first order of business though was going to be to run to town to pick up some set screws. I usually keep quarter inch set screws in the shop. It is an often used size and you never know when you'll need a spare. They strip out. They fall out and get lost. I find myself needing them often. I had somehow though allowed myself to get down to one, and I need three for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I try not to drive in snow unless it's an emergency. I just didn't feel that set screws was enough of an emergency to require me to get out on the roads today. I could do everything else and pick up the set screws when the weather is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, to the drill press. The size drill bit and tap will depend on the size set screw you plan to use. If in doubt, talk to someone at a good hardware store if you have one in town and they can usually set you up with a hand full of set screws, a drill bit, and a tap, for less than ten bucks.
> Before drilling your hole, take the time to make absolutely sure that you put a center punch dimple exactly center of your hole that the bit will go into. Try to get it centered between where the hole exits both sides of the shaft as well. If you're a tad off on that though, it will still pinch the bit in the hole and hold it fast. Centering it over the hole though is important so the tap will go through without binding against one side of the hole or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my only set screw, until I can get to town, the tap to make the threads for the set screw, and an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with.
> The reason I show this photo is to tell you that there is a tool made specifically for holding and turning taps. I had that tool once upon a time. It is somehow lost in my shop though like so many other things. If you are careful though, you can do the same job with an adjustable wrench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the most important things about tapping threads in a hole are to make sure the tap goes in straight, keep the threads of the tap lubricated, and be sure to back out often to clean the metal off the threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The straight tool is good for general hollowing of bowls and other vessels. I have also used it a few times, just to see how well it worked for it, on spindle turnings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ninety degree tool is good at getting at the sidewalls of bowls and hollow vessels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here I need to talk about the forty five degree tool. I made a change on this set of tools from the set that I have. I have two forty five degree tools. I have one like the one you see above, and one like you'll see in the next photo. I had an idea though.
> I drilled and tapped the hole for the set screw all the way through on both sides of the bit hole. This allows you to use the tools as you see it above, with the bit at a forward forty five degree angle. This works great at sidewalls of bowls that are too small to use the ninety degree tool in without hitting the rim of the bowl or vessel. Also, it is ideal to cut into a sharp corner in bowls or turned boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can flip the tool over, put the bit in the other way and put the set screw in this side to give you a raked back forty five degree tool.
> This tool is ideal for cutting upwards in a bowl or hollow vessel, especially if you're trying to put a lip on it with an undercut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next thing to do was to soften edges. If you notice in the photos before this one, there are sharp corners on the ends of the shafts. You can use a file, grinder, or many other options, but the edges around the business end of the tool need to be rounded off to a softer profile. If you leave the edges sharp, there is a chance of it touching wood while turning and creating a cutting action of it's own. With the softer edges, it will only rub the wood if it contacts it. It may create a burnishing effect, but that can be easily sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next thing to do is to make bits. You can use any variety of materials to make bits. I've seen bits made from old cheap steel drill bits, nails, old files, bought cobalt and carbide shafts, and many other things. My bits of choice are made from high speed steel drill bits.
> I like these Mibro brand aircraft quality drill bits. They are good steel that holds an edge a long time, and I can buy them locally for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make bits longer or shorter. Myself, there is eight inches of round shank on these long drill bits I mentioned before. So for around six bucks I get four two inch long bits.
> I just clamp the drill bit in a vise, measure, and use a hack saw to cut off the bits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A grinder is the tool of choice to shape and sharpen these bits. Just like any high speed steel, the trick is to not let the bits get too hot to ruin the temper. The thing is, when shaping these small bits, they get hot fast. I hold them with a pair of locking pliers and keep a can of water right there. Touch the stone, dip, touch the stone, dip. Dip often and keep the bit cool.
> You can follow other people's styles and see if you like them, or get some cheap bits and play around with different profiles to see what works for you. I grind all my bits on a forty five degree angle in different profiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'll be shipping with the tools to my friend.
> I took the privilege of grinding the four bits from the drill bit to some of my favorite profiles. If my friend doesn't like these, or has other ideas, he can easily change them. With two inch long bits, there is plenty of usable steel to regrind on. When that is used up, just buy and cut up some more drill bits, or as I was talking about earlier, use your imagination.
> From left to right is:
> 1. Simple forty five degree grind. You do nothing but just stick the round bit to the stone and go at it till you take away enough material for an edge. This one I find good for hollowing.
> 2. Flat straight bit. This one is sharpened similar to the first one, except you flatten the top first. This one is good at hollowing as well, but really shines at flattening the bottom of a bowl or vessel.
> 3. Similar to the second one, except it has a grind at an attack angle from both sides close to forty five degrees. This one is more of a general purpose bit, but I find it works great in that transition area between the bottom and the side wall of bowls or vessels.
> 4. This one is a swept back forty five. When placed in the ninety or the forty five tool, it easily brings a flat edge that can comfortable be drawn straight up the side of a bowl or vessel. With practice, you can use this tool to gently trim a bowl side until it is thinner than I'm comfortable doing with a regular bowl gouge.
> 5. This is the allen head wrench that fits the set screws that will be in the tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that's left is handles. After doing some measuring, I decided on sizes I thought my friend would find acceptable. I'm making handles eleven inches long. I need the hole for the shafts to be at or close to seven inches deep. Since the only five eighths bit I have in the whole shop that will get anywhere near that is a spade bit, that is what I'm using.
> I like to clamp the bottom of the handle stock in a wooden vise to drill. This gives me something to hold to should the bit catch inside of the deep hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several problems present themselves drilling this deep of a hole.
> My spade bit is only five inches long. With some of that length inside the chuck, this only allows about four inches of usable length. So I have to use an extension after I go as deep as the spade bit allows.
> The next problem is the three and a half to four inch of quill travel on my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To solve the quill travel problem, I have to get creative. I drill as deep as the quill allows. Then I back the bit out, raised the table until the bit is inside the hole a certain depth, then turn the motor on and go at it some more.
> You can see in this photo that, by the time I get to my last pass with the drill press, the spade bit is already almost completely inside the hole before I even turn the drill press on.
> The trick here is to take it slow. Also, lower the table, remove the handle blank, and dump the shavings out often. This helps prevent them from staying in the blind hole and causing the bit to eventually bind. That could cause a dangerous situation.
> I know someone may already be looking at this and thinking there has to be a safer way. There probably is. I am working with what I have available though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the hole is drilled, all you do is put it on the lathe and turn your handle of choice.
> I decided to not take a huge about of time on handles. This decision is mainly because I don't know if my friend is even going to like these handles enough to keep them. I know that I commonly put new handles on tools when I get them to make them more to my liking.
> So for the handles, I done them quickly. I just turned them, made a few burn lines (something I do on all handles I turn) and put a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on them.
> The handle you see is a handle style I like. I do not use ferrules. I know that some say they are necessary, and there must be a reason for them, since most manufactured tools have them. However, I've never had a problem yet with my handles with no ferrules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the handle, the shaft has to be inserted into it.
> This is the way I attach the handle. The shaft has to be driven in with a rubber mallet. I purposely make the holes a tight fit. Most of the tools I have myself don't even have glue or epoxy in them. Either way, the shaft has to be driven in. Keep this in mind if you do it like this and use a fast setting glue.
> To drive the shaft in, I put the butt of the handle on the floor, stand the shaft up in the hole, and drive it with a rubber mallet until I hear that solid lick, telling me that the shaft has bottomed out in the hole.
> These handles do not have glue of any kind in them. I wanted to leave them so that if my friend does wish to make his own handles, he can easily use a chisel to break the break the handles off of the shafts and use his own handles.
> If he does like them, he is also welcome to keep them on. I've only had one handle without glue ever to come loose. However, if these do come loose at any time in the future, it is easy to put some glue or epoxy in and drive the shafts back in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are the three Oland tools that I plan on shipping out to my friend early next month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UH OH!
> I noticed as I was moving the tools after the last photo that something was definitely wrong with one of them. The shaft just did not seem to look right. Upon closer inspection, I found this.
> Did I turn it too thin? Did I get my hole drilled crooked somehow?
> Since the handle was trash anyway, there was only one way to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow the hole was not drilled straight. This created a scenario where it became turned too thin on one side of the handle. This in turn made the handle crack when I drove the shaft in.
> So, I will have to turn another handle before I can ship them.
> .
> I won't bore you all with me turning one more handle. I think this two part blog showed the process of making these tools pretty well. I will be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have though.


Thank you.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Suggestions*

I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
















Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.








So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.








Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue. 
Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.








So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.








So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.








By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.








After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.








So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.








I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape. 
As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.








So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee. 
I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
.
Until next time my friends, happy turning!


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


The coffee pen is REALLY amazing! I like it a lot.


----------



## lightcs1776

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Very cool. I happen to love grits and coffee. They make a perfect breakfast. I'll have to mention this to Sherry. She loves coffee too (grits are OK with her, but not her first pick).


----------



## Deycart

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


You might want to try mixing coffee and grits to get a dark and light high contrast fill. I also thought of adding food color to the girts to get some interesting colors going on. What did you use as a glue? CA?


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


well i think it looks pretty cool, not a bad idea…


----------



## HerbC

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Mix grits, coffee grounds and egg (shells) and you'd have a real breakfast pen…

Course you still got to figure out how to get some bacon in the mix…

Herb


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Pretty amazing William…...I've had grits by the way…..I think it's an acquired taste, but never seen grits in a pen before….....pretty cool! I think Arlin did some coffee beans in a turning once, but not ground coffee…....perfect…..

Good thinking…..


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Thank you all very much.

Deycart, I use super thin CA glue for the filling. The super thin soaks through and fills the gaps pretty good if you only do a little at a time. I have tried using thick and mixing a paste with sawdust before. The super thin just works better in my opinion though.

I like all the ideas. Dyed grits is a definite possibility for a future pen.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


I think both the coffee and the grits turned out very cool. The coffee really looks like part of the burl.

I like grits with butter and brown sugar or fried with syrup!


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


oh man andy, your getting me all reved up for some grits, i like them the same as you…i might have to have a little desert tonight…never a bad time for grits…and im not from the south,


----------



## lightcs1776

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Grits should be served with salt, butter, and maybe cheese and bacon.

William, how fast does thin CA set?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Thanks guys.

Chris, it depends on which CA glue you are talking about. I assume you're talking about the super thin that I used here. It is supposed to dry in about 1-3 seconds. I usually allow it to set for five or ten minutes before moving on though.
The slowest drying glue I use is the extra thick. I use it to glue in pen tubes. It dries in 15-20 seconds. As with all CA glues though, certain woods and such causes it to set much faster. For example, if you're gluing tubes in zebra wood, you have plenty of time. However, if you're using it to glue the same tubes in antler, you have one shot to stick the tube in quickly and get it in the right spot, because if you stop for half a second, it's stuck.

Also, there is an accelerator made for all these glues. I seldom use it. It speeds up the set time, but makes the dried glue extremely brittle. One of the main things I use it for is when gluing up difficult angled segmented pins. If you put thick glue on one piece of wood, wet the other piece with accelerator, all you gotta do is stick them together for about half a second and they are there. You're ready to move on to the next glueup on your project. Just always remember that brittleness factor. The more you use accelerator to speed up gluing together a pen blank, the more likely it is to blow apart while turning it, and yes, I've had that happen.

Dang it.
I just realized that you did specify thin CA.
Oh well. After typing all that, I'm not deleting it now.


----------



## ssnvet

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


you're a creative soul William.

Nice job.


----------



## lightcs1776

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Thanks for the detailed information. I'm glad you didn't stick to just the thin CA. I purchased thick CA for Sherry's pen making. Slower drying is definitely better when starting out.


----------



## clieb91

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


More interesting experiments. Like the grit one, adding food coloring would certainly add something to the finished pen. The antler lights turned out very cool. 
Thanks for sharing. 
CtL


----------



## PASs

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


A couple years ago I went to the hardware stores and emptied out their key grinding machines.
I have a small rubbermaid bowl filled with the grindings, some aluminum mixed with brass.
It isn't as glittery as glitter, but it does impart a metallic look to blowouts or cracks. and It's soft enough to turn, sand, and polish.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


You just had to prove….
That ANYTHING is possible!!!

Very interesting mediums to turn. They did come out quite nice.
The flashlights look great also.

I know that in Mississippi, it may be hard to find….
Can you turn a SNOW pen??? ;^)

Looking forward to more of your experiments….


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Very cool ideas William. I would market the grit pens as '*********************************** grit' pens. I think they would be a big hit in the South. Have fun.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Thank you all.

Pete, I've been thinking about something with metallic properties. If I don't think of something before my next trip to town, I'll be sure to ask my local hardware store about their key machine.

Randy, you figure out a way to keep the snow from melting and I will turn it for you.

Mike, that's a good advertising idea. Thanks.


----------



## Gene01

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


William,
The coffee and grits pens are very nice. And the antler penlight is superb.
Those brass filings mixed in with crushed turquoise or malachite fills voids in flat work nicely. Should make a really pretty accent on a pen. Shredded fake gold foil works well, too.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Thanks gene. 
I keep saying I want to try turquoise. One of these days I will order some.


----------



## Gene01

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


william. I can bring you some already crushed when we meet at eddies.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Gene, I'm kind of out of the loop these days. 
When is the great meeting of the minds supposed to take place at eddie's?
With my wife's work schedule and financial problems, I'm not sure I'll make it not. If ya'll have a date set, maybe I can work out something.


----------



## BigDumbAnimal

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Good on you for actually trying the crazy ideas that come along, I think they turned out great. Have you considered using a two part epoxy and mixing in whatever medium, might save some time as opposed to building up successive layers and if you colored the epoxy it might just look pretty cool with something like the grits mixed into it. Keep experimenting, I'd be interested to see what else you come up with.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


I've tried epoxy before and I like the way CA glue comes out better. 
Also, in the time it takes epoxy to dry enough to be turned, you can build it up with CA. 
The CA dries in a matter of seconds. To build it up, you apply a thin layer of what ever medium you're using, soak in thin CA, apply layer, soak, apply, soak, with only a few second between each step. After it is built up enough, allow enough time or it to cure, about the time it takes to go get a cup of coffee, and come back ready to turn. 
Thanks for the ideas though. I may revisit epoxy in the future if only for the coloring aspect.


----------



## Gene01

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


William,
Dunno the date for sure. Some time in May, I think. eddie needs to let us know. 
Looking forward to it. Hope you can make it. If not, I can deliver those rocks. I'm planning going through MS.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Well regardless if we meet at eddie's or not, if you're coming through Mississippi, I'd love for you to stop by my shop for a bit. I always look forward to shop visitors.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


You're a creative genius William. The coffee grounds do look like part of the burl. Really good thinking.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Thanks roger. 
The idea came from a friend. Also, since posting this, I found out from that friend that he heard the idea from somewhere else. 
So that means I am definitely not the first one to use coffee for a filling medium.


----------



## Gene01

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


Thanks, William. Love to meet ya.
As soon as the dates are firm, I'll give you a shout.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Suggestions*
> 
> I often make the comment that I will try to turn anything once. That statement sometimes brings me suggestions on things to try. Some are obvious good suggestions, and some may make some scratch their heads. Sometimes I like to explore some of these suggestions further though. You never know what may or may not be possible if you don't try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recently, while looking at one of the deer antler pens I have made, a friend made the comment, "wouldn't it be neat if you could make a flashlight with deer antler on it".
> As soon as the comment was made, I remembered seeing these kits in the Penn State catalogue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered two kits. It was a puzzle cutting and drilling the antler so it would be big enough without blowouts to get the job done, but I think they turned out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may remember some of the pens I've made with defects in the wood. I filled the voids with saw dust and a good soaking of CA glue.
> Well a friend suggested a similar technique, but using a completely different ingredient for the solid part of the mixture, coffee grounds.
> Now I love coffee. So, ever since this idea was first suggested to me, I decided that next time I had a small blowout that caused such a void, that I would try the coffee ground idea. The problem is, since then, I have not had such a blowout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to not wait any longer. Instead, I used one of the ugliest pieces of cherry burl I had. I did not have to wait for a blowout on this piece. It already looked like it had been a huge blowout before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started filling those voids with thin layers of coffee grounds, slowly building it up till it was thick as the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I was ready to turn it, I must say, it was even uglier than it was before I started gluing in the coffee grounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After turning, sanding, and finishing though, it didn't look too bad. I don't exactly know what words to use for it though besides, interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since the cherry burl and coffee ground pen was successful, I started rummaging around the kitchen to see what else I could fill voids with to turn. By this time, it was starting to seem more like a weird science experiment.
> I came up with several possibilities. One that stuck in my mind though was grits. I hate grits, mostly because I eat so many of them growing up. They might make an interesting medium for this though. By this time I had stopped asking why, and going with, why not!
> Now, some of you from the north may not know what grits are. No, I am not trying to make fun of anyone. My Dad is from the north though, and from him, I know some of you may have to google grits now. In my own personal opinion, you are not missing much, some people, like my kids, love them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started with a piece of oak burl. Oak burl is my favorite of them all. I'm running low on it though, and this may just very well give me the option of using all those little pieces that aren't good for much because they are in such bad shape.
> As a matter of fact, this one didn't even make it off the drill press before it broke completely in two. I figured it was time to go for broke. So I finished drilling the piece, which was now two pieces, and glued a piece on each end of the pen tube. Then I started slowly filling the missing area with grits until I got it built up enough to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is what an oak burl and grits pen looks like. Actually, I like the way this one turned out better than the coffee.
> I will definitely have to think more and listen to suggestions in the future about what else I can fill holes with to turn. These pens only reinforce the idea that I will try to turn anything at least one, twice if the failure doesn't hurt too bad.
> .
> Until next time my friends, happy turning!


I look forward to it.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Pens*

I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to. 
I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
.

Tec-Pens








This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
This one is done in blood wood.








This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.








This one is box elder burl.








The last one is done in hedge apple. 
I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.

.

Executive Pens








These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.








Spalted pecan.
I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.








This one is spalted maple.








Walnut burl.








Box elder burl.
The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.








Buckeye burl.
The void is inlaid with grits.

.

Celtic Pen








These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut. 
It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.








This is a different pen, just the same material.








I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
This is walnut with box elder inlay.








The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
The crack void is inlaid with salt.
I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date. 
Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.

.
That's it for this post. 
I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


----------



## PASs

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


Beautiful.
I like the Celtic knots.
I have filled voids in some of my work with shavings from key machines.
It's usually a mix of brass and aluminum.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


you sure have been busy, i love them all…i would guess your scroll saw is covered with dust, and your skills might be a bit rusty as well….lol..all of the pens turned out great…i dont know if i told you i cut down a big walnut a few weeks ago, its still at the sawyers, but i should be getting it back soon, but you can expect several packages of walnut in the future…for sure…be well wiliam..grizz


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


These are all really cool William. Good to see you busy is the shop…..Funny because I was just thinking the same thing as Griz, you're old scroll saws are feeling a bit rejected…....

The spalted pecan really is extra cool and of course those Celtic knots look perfect…......


----------



## lightcs1776

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


Very impressive, William, as always. The spalted pecan is particularly interesting.


----------



## gfadvm

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


A great collection of cool pens. I like the plainer ones with the focus on the wood rather than the fancy hardware personally. The spalted pecan is extra special. Your inlays are very unique. Love the grits!


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


Great lookin' pens, William!

I can't say that any particular one is my favorite….
I love them ALL!!!

As much as you are into the inlays….
I have a feeling, that soon, you will….
Make a pen of just inlay material, sans wood!!!

Looking forward to the next installment….


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


William great looking pens ,love the Celtic ones with the inlay in the middle


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


Thanks you all.

Grizz, don't put yourself out too bad on postage sending wood. 
The last time I sent a heavy package, I had to check my blood pressure.
I do love walnut though.

Chris, I love the spalted pecan, but it is tedious to work with. You have to take EXTREMELY light passes while steadily soaking in thin CA glue. If you try to go just a little too fast or hard, it all goes up in dust, literally, it'll fly away in tiny tiny pieces like dust. 
You know I love a challenge though.

Andy, I agree with you. 
If I could get away with it, all I'd turn would be slimline pens in various burls.
I have to make what people are willing to buy though.
You may notice that I'm getting more into filling voids and such instead of gluing up crazy blanks. 
I find it more interesting, both while working it, and the looks afterwards.

Grizz and Jeff, as for the scroll saws, I do miss it sometimes. 
Now if people would just buy more of my scroll work, I would be busy back at the scroll saw tomorrow.
Don't worry though, I dust it off from time to time just to demonstrate to someone how one works, and I promise, it's like riding a bicycle, you never forget completely how.
So if the occasion arises, I'll be happily scrolling away again.

Pete, I have thought of metal shavings, but just haven't gotten aorund to trying it yet.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


Thank you Eddie.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


All super nice William. The knot on the Celtic ones are very nice.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


Thank you roger.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


The double Celtic knots are amazing. Just in time for St. Patrick's day


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


Thank you doe. 
I think those look nice myself. 
I was worried that the Celtic design in the wood would be overboard. Studying the hardware though, I figured I couldn't go overboard on hardware that is already overboard.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


I liked every one of these pens William. Great wood on all of them. The Celtic patterned ones were very nicely done too.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


Thank you Mike.


----------



## mochoa

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


Sweet pens Man!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


Thank you Mauricio.


----------



## dcg4403

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


Very nice. Hey, we are digging out over 50 pecan root balls here in Texas and I am actively seeking buyers for this very special wood. Great stuff for turning blanks, pens, sculpted art, etc.

Thanks, Devin Ginther
RefinedElements.com


----------



## csifishguy

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


Wow great pens, I am new to pen making and I've been using a ridgid lathe and my tool rest will not get very close to my pens any suggestions would be great
thanks guys


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


I ordered a little four inch long rest from penn state industries. 
The stock rests on most cheaper lathes (mine included) are usually 12". With that, you are right. The way the pen mandrel is made it makes it difficult to make clean cuts because the rest is backed away from your work too far.

Measure how big the shift is on your existing rest before searching online for a shorter rest.


----------



## Outnmbrd

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Pens*
> 
> I've been back to doing a lot of pens at once lately. This will be the first of two posts just showing a lot of what I've been up to.
> I am going to separate the ones in this post according to style.
> .
> 
> Tec-Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bolt action tec-pen. I've been wanting to do some of these. I've had several people who loved the bolt action click mechanism in the regular bolt action pens. However, due to their jobs and such, they did not want to have a pen with a bullet for a tip or a rifle clip. So these pens have the same mechanism, but without the otherwise unwanted accessories.
> This one is done in blood wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bolt action tec-pen is done in black palm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is box elder burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one is done in hedge apple.
> I purposely picked a piece of wood though with a void so I could fill it with coffee grounds. I find myself doing that more and more lately. I love the inlaid look of different materials and experimenting with it all.
> 
> .
> 
> Executive Pens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens are called executive pens. I seen them in the catalogue and thought they were nice looking pens. So I ordered a starter set of six pens.
> This first one is done in something called canxon ************************* burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spalted pecan.
> I love working with burls and other woods with unusual characteristics that set them apart. This spalted pecan starts out with almost the consistency of a sponge. You have to keep soaking it in glue as you turn it down to keep it from tearing apart. It makes a nice pen in my opinion though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is spalted maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walnut burl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box elder burl.
> The void on this one is inlaid with black pepper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buckeye burl.
> The void is inlaid with grits.
> 
> .
> 
> Celtic Pen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pens I've been wanting to do for some time. Every time I wish to order them though, they have been out of stock. They were finally available.
> This first one is hedge apple with a Celtic cross inlaid with walnut.
> It left my shop so quick that I wasn't able to even show it to the one person I had in mind when I made it. So I would have to make another one just like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a different pen, just the same material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the Celtic cross on these pens, but didn't think the yellow went well with the pewter finish, so I went with different materials on this one.
> This is walnut with box elder inlay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last one I decided to do in live oak burl.
> The crack void is inlaid with salt.
> I have never met a burl I didn't like, but I must admit that oak burl has by far been may favorite to date.
> Too bad I am down to my last few pieces of it. I will have to try to find more of this wonderful material one day.
> 
> .
> That's it for this post.
> I will be typing up the second part of this after dinner.


I love making pens, and you are great at it! Nice selection of woods too!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*More Pens*


















I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
So let's get started.

. 
*The Tycoon*
























For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
.
"The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee." 
.
This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that. 
For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen. 
All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
























This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.

.
*The Apollo Infinity*
























"Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status." 
.
This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen. 
























This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.

.
*The Majestic*
















"The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance." 
.
This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.

.
*The Broadwell Art Deco*
























"Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period." 
The Art Deco Pen features:
All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
.
This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.

.
*The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
























This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs. 
Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium. 
The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
.
This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.

.

All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.

.

That's it my friends. 
I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
So until next time, 
HAPPY TURNING!!!


----------



## Bearpie

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


These are all great looking pens! You seem to have pen making down pat!


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


Wow….there all gems. I believe you will find buyers for all of them. You have really been busy…..great stuff.


----------



## lightcs1776

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


Absolutely impressive. I cannot imagine that you will have difficulty selling those, to the right buyers, as they are pieces of art.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


Thanks Jeff.

Erwin, I enjoy making them, but I promise never to say I have it down pat.
It seems that anytime I ever think I "have it" when it comes to the lathe, things start getting wonky. 
So I have to remember to have some humility and realize that I'm always learning.
In my opinion, it isn't the lathe.
It is the fact that any man who thinks he has mastered working wood in any form or fashion, mother nature will throw a wood grain at you that will make you think different.

By the way, when are you coming through Mississippi again?
I'm running out of oak burl.
I'm broke after buying pen kits, but we can trade some of my work for burl.

Note:
I'm just kidding.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


Thank you Chris.
The issue is going to be the price I will have to have for these, and the amount most people around here are willing to part with, may be a bit too far apart.


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


What can I say that hasn't already been said by EVERYONE!!!

Great stuff there.
No doubt that these will sell.
May just need to get them in front of the right customer!!!

Carry on…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


Thank you Randy.


----------



## Andrewski

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


Those are amazing!!!

I have got to learn to do that.

I've looked at some kits, but haven't jumped in yet.

Andy


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


Thanks Andy.

By the way, if you ever do make the leap, it is a slippery slope downhill from there.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


Super nice selection of pens. Always enjoy looking at your turnings.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


Thank you roger. 
Yours are always nice as well.


----------



## grizzman

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


those are some eye candy for sure, i say go to some banks and show them to the officers there, i bet you sell some..i wouldnt just let them sit in your shop, and i would for sure sell them at a price that i made a handsome profit..you deserve it william…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


Thank you grizz. 
I appreciate everyone's comments about how easy these pens should be to sell. 
I wish I had as much confidence. 
Incidentally though, it seems I may be a better wood worker than a salesman.


----------



## Doe

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


Wow! Elegant, unique, and well crafted. I hope you get buyers soon-they're worth every penny!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


Thank you doe. 
I hope they sell when I get them out to be seen. 
I have to make boxes for them first. All my more expensive pens I make boxes for. My thinking is that expensive pens will be usually either given as gifts or live on a desk. Either way, a box is needed and adds to the value.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


All nice. I think they will all sell.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


Thank you Mike. 
I hope you're right.


----------



## rodkeen

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


Please don't low ball the price on these. They will sell. I have also wanted to get into the higher end market and have invested a pretty good chunk of change to do so. It has paid off. Nothing chaps me more than to see talented turners settle for chump change in exchange for their works of art. I purchased that high-end starter kit from PSI for about $200 and have sold every one of them, without compromising my price.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *More Pens*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting for such a long while to do some truly higher end pens, made with some higher quality kits. I have neglected doing so purely for financial reasons. These kits are not cheap, and there is no guarantee I'll be able to sell them for enough to make it feasible to even be making them. I wanted to so badly though. So I've been getting a little here and a little there, working up to making just such presentation as I hope to show you today.
> So let's get started.
> 
> .
> *The Tycoon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For each of my pens, I'd like to first quote what the site that sells the kits says about each pen style.
> .
> "The Tycoon is simply a great looking pen. This kit features ultra smooth and durable threading, a regal design and striking facets on the rollerball nib. Plus the 24kt gold plating offers a bright pure gold plating that will give your pen a rich and luxurious look. Our 24kt gold uses a "premium rack plating" process and is covered with an epoxy coating for extreme durability. We guarantee it's beauty and durability with a lifetime guarantee."
> .
> This Tycoon pen is made of cherry burl with coffee grounds inlaid into the voids.
> I find myself more and more wishing to take the worst of the ugly pieces of woods and make them interesting, if not beautiful. This pen is a perfect example of that.
> For each half of the pen I used two pieces of end scraps off a block of cherry burl. I carefully glued them to each end of the pen tubes and allowed them to dry. Next I turned the blanks down to about an eighth of an inch over final size. Then I started taking a tiny bit of coffee grounds at a time and gluing them into the space between the two pieces until I built the coffee grounds up above the point where it was turned to. Then I allowed that to cure completely and finished turning, sanding, and finishing the pen.
> All the pens in this post are finished with ten coats of boiled linseed oil and cyanoacrylate glue, buffed up to twelve thousand grit micro mesh, buffed with plastic polish, and then given two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Tycoon pen is made of live oak burl with the voids filled with grits.
> I love burls in general. I have yet to find one I don't like the look of. Oak burl has to be my favorite though. It was when my supply of it got low enough that I had to start using pieces with voids in them though that I realized the beauty that adding contrast to the material could do to it. I was originally afraid it would take away from the interesting and twisting grain of the oak burl. Instead though, it only added to the intricity of it.
> 
> .
> *The Apollo Infinity*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Introducing the elegant Apollo Infinity™ Gold Titanium Gel Rollerball Pen Kit - the next generation of pen from the Apollo Elite™ group. This pen features the "infinity" band - a revolutionary 3-D band style exclusive to the Apollo Infinity™. The pen keeps the same elegant rounded profile of the original Apollo Elite™. Includes smooth writing Black Gel ink. The Gold Titanium (TN) plating looks just like gold and is absolutely permanent. It will even outlast our guaranteed standard gold finishes. All TN kits are stamped with a "TN" indicated on the pen clip to authenticate it's Titanium status."
> .
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made of oak burl with coffee grounds for the inlay.
> I couldn't help myself. After seeing how the last oak burl and coffee pen turned out, I had to create the look again for the Apollo pen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Apollo Infinity pen is made with box elder burl. The void is inlaid with salt.
> 
> .
> *The Majestic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The magnificent Rollerball Pen Kit will inspire your creative talents and will delight your recipient a hand made pen that will exceed even the most discriminating collector's expectations. The Majestic Pen includes many remarkable features including: A rhodium-plated clip that includes a sparkling Swarovski clear crystal; All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom hand-carved 3 dimensional designs; Components are cast, polished then plated with extremely durable Black Titanium plating; Its regal profile is accented with brilliant rhodium-plating on all components and has a flawless fit and finish; The rollerball assembly includes a rhodium-plated pen nib with a premium Schmidt steel cartridge refill with a ceramic point; The finished project is complimented with superb balance, superior writing characteristics and an overall stylish, polished & elegant appearance."
> .
> This Majestic pen is made with walnut burl.
> I only had enough walnut burl to do one more pen. Since this was my favorite design of all the premium pen kits I'd ordered, I decided to use that burl to make the Majestic.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Art Deco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Penn State Industries is proud to team up again with accomplished pen designer David Broadwell to bring you this exquisitely original Art Deco Rhodium & 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Art Deco was an opulent and lavish art form that spanned the 1920's and 1930's. The art form influenced architecture, industrial design, interior design, fashion, and film of the period."
> The Art Deco Pen features:
> All components are cast, polished and plated with a durable Rhodium & 22kt Gold plating.
> Includes spires and star bursts that characterize the Art Deco period.
> Pen clip features unique Art Deco design and a radiant Swarovski Crystal.
> Easily posts with threads on the end cap.
> The cap is 3-D cast with intricate Art Deco detail.
> The Pen Band is cast and gold plated with Art Deco detail.
> Medium Schmidt™ gold and Iridium nib plus an ink pump and ink cartridge.
> .
> This Art Deco pen is made with cherry burl and coffee grounds.
> I removed the pen kit from the packaging and was studying on what I would like to use for the wood. It just happened that I laid the parts out to get a better feel for them and they were right beside the pen I'd done earlier with cherry burl and coffee ground. I realized that, although I'd done it earlier, it would also look great on this pen.
> 
> .
> *The Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another kit designed for Penn State by David Broadwell, and features:
> All exposed accent rings, bands and caps include elegant custom casted three dimensional Art Nouveau designs.
> Components are cast, polished and plated with a durable 2 micron 22kt gold plate and Rhodium.
> The Rollerball and Ball Point styles include a Schmidt rhodium plated pen nib with a steel cartridge with a ceramic point.
> .
> This Nouveau Sceptre is made of zebra wood.
> Sometimes I am unsure what to make a pen out of until I open the package and look to get a "feel" for what will look good on it. Some pens just scream "I need some flare!" So it was with the Nouveau Sceptre. So I searched through my blanks. I thought about using burl and filling in voids for much the same kind of look I'd given most of my pens lately. This pen though, to me, demanded not to be presented with patched in beauty, but a hard wood that had flowing lines, much like the design elements of the hardware. So I thought about the diagonal cut zebra wood.
> 
> .
> 
> All of the pen kits used to make these and more can be found here at Penn State industries.
> 
> .
> 
> That's it my friends.
> I may never find a buyer for these pens. If they sit in my showcase forever though, it was worth it, because I sure had a good time making them.
> So until next time,
> HAPPY TURNING!!!


Thank you rodkeen. 
I just give this almost exact advice to a beginning turner a few days ago. 
I learned the hard way early on that if you ask low prices in the beginning, just because you're a beginner but still selling decent pens, then folks will still expect low prices on higher priced pens.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

*Sanding And Sharpening*

Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.








Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale. 
This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.








Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.








Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig. 
This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them. 
All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission. 
.
Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder. 








This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.








This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.








Here is what I came up with.
It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.








When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.








This is what it looks like with the top removed.








I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


Good info William…...I need to look into the bowl sanders…..let me know if you have any relevant links…..thanks man…..


----------



## superdav721

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


I to would like to see more on the sanders William.
Love the new blackhawk rig.
And the sharpening station is kewl.Thumbs up


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


Jeff
Here is the link to the post where I made my sander.
Here is a link to Capt. Eddie's video on making his sander.
Here is a link to how to make your own sanding disks. The article is for making three inch disks for a power sander (which you can use a drill for) but I make two inch disks to use in my passive sander.
And here is a link to the Sorby Sandmaster on Amazon.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


Here is where I ordered mine from.
When I bought it though, it was only a few dollars more for this whole starter set than it was to buy just the sander on Amazon.
I have not tried the turning tools in the set yet.
I'll let ya'll know how good those are in the future.


----------



## lightcs1776

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


Great blog/review of home made vs purchased items. Personally I get more satisfaction out of knowing I made something, even of it isn't quite on par with a commercial product. I would like to have additional sharpening tools that are commercially made, but that is because of my limited sharpening skills.


----------



## Momcanfixit

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


I really like the sharpening station William.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


Thank you both.

Chris, the shop made version works the same. The commercially available one is just nice. Nice doesn't necessarily mean better though. 
Sharpening is a learned skill. As I've gotten more into sharpening I have learned how to do it any way I have to. The jigs and tools just make it easier. Like a lot of things though, the only way to get good at sharpening is to practice, make mistakes, and then learn from those mistakes.

Thank you Sandra.


----------



## lightcs1776

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


Good thing I have so.e extra tools to make mistakes on (a coworker's father had over a dozen that he passed onto me).


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


William you got it sharp , i got to get a station for sharping soon ,think im going to do what you said on that motor that was on the car port ,how you like that Porter Cable was that a variable speed one >)


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


double vision


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


Yes Eddie.
I forgot to mention the porter cable grinder.
It is a variable speed grinder. I was doing alright with the high speed grinder, but when I got a coupon in the mail making the Porter Cable variable speed a little over fifty bucks, I couldn't pass it up.


----------



## JL7

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


Thanks for the links William…...I will check them out soon…...


----------



## DIYaholic

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


William,
One of your pictures is/was missing an apostrophe…









Thanks for the links. I'm going to be needing to make that sander!!!

I agree totally with building what you can. It is important, as sometimes funds or time are not your friends!!!


----------



## hoss12992

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


Great job


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


Thanks all. 
Randy, I'll see what I can do about fixing that.


----------



## stefang

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


All good William.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


Thanks Mike.


----------



## Kentuk55

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
> .
> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


Good stuff William.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

greasemonkeyredneck said:


> *Sanding And Sharpening*
> 
> Anyone who reads my blog posts know I enjoy making my own tools and accessories whenever possible. This sometimes puts me at odds with some people. I get emails from time to time telling me to try this brand of this, or this brand of that, and that I'll see how much better it is than what I made. I will be the first to admit that sometimes the people who tell me this are absolutely correct. Other times, well, not so much.
> When I get a chance to do so though, I do try to give some of these suggestions a chance. It all comes down to if and when I can get the items at a reasonable cost and if that cost is worth it to me to take a chance on it.
> That will be the subject of the first part of my blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the sander I made a while back beside the Robert Sorby Sandmaster that I recently caught on sale.
> This is one of those times that the suggestion made to me was correct, well, mostly.
> The sander I made does do the job it was intended to do. There is nothing at all wrong with it. However, I also have to give the Sorby brand Sandmaster due credit. It does the same job, but it seems to do it faster and smoother.
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> Here is the first bowl, made of rose wood, that I sanded with the Robert Sorby Sandmaster.
> The sale that was going on when I bought the Sorby tool has now passed. They do have them on Amazon last time I checked though if you'd like to search for them there. Also, the Sandmaster is available from several other well known suppliers.
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> Next up is the lathe tool sharpening jig.
> This is the Complete 4pc Precision Sharpening System from Penn State Industries. You can find it here if you are interested.
> I do like this system. I do not regret buying it. is easier to set up than my shop made system. However, besides being a little more convenient, I do not see the difference at all between the grind quality off this jig compared to my shop made one. I mention this because I got three different emails telling me that this jig would create a more repeatable, and "better" grind. I have to completely disagree with that statement. I can grind two tools, one on the Penn State version, and one on my shop made version, and you cannot tell the difference in them.
> All that being said, I do recommend this system to anyone who can afford it. You do get a lot for the $129.95 price tag compared to similar systems. For me personally, the better flat rest, compared to the crappy ones I've been using that came with my grinder, made it worth the price of admission.
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> Since I was improving sharpening devices in the shop, I decided to finally get around to remaking my oil stone holder.
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> This is my old holder. It is something I had thrown together in less than an hour. It served it's purpose, but I had grown tired of it. It is hard to tell from the photo, but the stones are in their plastic containers that they come in. These containers allow the stones to move a bit and gets aggravating when trying to sharpen some tools. It was time to upgrade it.
> I wanted something that held the stones more firmly. However, I still needed to be able to cover the stones to keep saw dust out of them.
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> This is my roll around cart with all my sanders and such. I wanted the sharpening station on this cart. However, I needed it to be movable so that those rare occasions when I'm running out of room on my work bench and piling things up here on the cart it can be moved.
> So I sat down and thought about how I wanted to do all this. It was one of those rare occasions that I actually drew up a plan on paper before beginning. Maybe I ought to do this more instead of just making it up as I go along.
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> Here is what I came up with.
> It is a simple box that sits on the sanding bench. The latch in the from keeps the lid secure in the front. The plywood is attached to the front board and slides into slots in the side boards and the back.
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> When I need to move it, the whole thing just pulls up and can be sat aside. There is four dowels glued into the bottom of the sharpening station that set into corresponding holes in the bench top.
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> This is what it looks like with the top removed.
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> I like this much better than my older design. I saved the plastic containers in case I need them in the future. Under the cover, the two diamond plates on the right end still retain their plastic covers. I use only water on them and I didn't want oil from the stones to get on them since oil and water doesn't mix well. Also, I seldom use the diamond plates. I like my oil stones better. The only time the diamond plates get used is when I have a badly damage or new tool that I need to change the bevel on quickly. After they leave the diamond plates, they get actually sharpened on the oil stones.


Thanks roger.


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