# Not Bad Afterall



## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

Which model specifically? I have had excellent results with Freud's Diablo blades…


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## DamnYankee (May 21, 2011)

Same question. Thanks for the review.


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## Routerisstillmyname (Oct 16, 2008)

Wow, Freud makes the BEST saw blades and router bits bar none.
I've used Diablo 80 T the past two years with no issue even though the diablo line is their lower end blades.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

This is the D1024X model. I think I'll take it back and try the Freud thin kerf industrial blade, or maybe the new fusion blade.


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## ChrisForthofer (Jan 1, 2010)

What saw are you running it on? I found on my contractor saw that thin kerf blades performed poorly, put a full kerf on it and its beautiful.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

You're likely to find that this is more for ripping framing than 1.5" hardwoods. What kind of saw are you using this on ?
I had similar issues using one on a bench top Delta model. Put the same blade on my JET and no problems : )
Did you use a blade stabilizer with it ?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

just to add some context - this is a ripping blade and is meant to speed up the ripping process when compared to a combination blade. this is not a glueline blade and is not meant to produce mirror finishes on lumber.

the question is - does it rip faster than your combination blade - that is it's purpose in life.


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## MoshupTrail (Aug 11, 2011)

Generally, the Diablo blades are more run-of-the-mill, big box store blades. The better Freuds are the "Industrial" series. How many teeth on your Industrial? That 24T Diablo might be a bit rough.


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## maljr1980 (Sep 4, 2011)

then kerf blades are made for underpowered saws, the vibrate and flex way to much. the thicker the kerf the better the cut. i wouldnt use a thin kerf on anything other than a portable saw


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

*PurpLev* Thanks for pointing that out. A newbie wannabe like me would have never caught that it is a rip blade.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

I feel like if the "downside" of a $40 rip blade is that it leaves blade marks you can see when you hold it up to the light- it's not a bad deal! I think these blades should be judged for what they are, mid/low priced blades. As such they preform better than expected (I'd give them 4 stars at least). If you are comparing them to a high end, full kerf, glue line blade, of course they only deserve two stars…


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I use a Jet 1.5 h.p. contractors saw. The diablo ripping blade is $28, and the industrial thin kerf ripping blade is $38, so pricepoint isn't an issue. Also Freuds glue line rip blade is only designed to rip stock up to 1" thick. I need to cut 8/4 stock for chair and table parts. Freuds industrial 24 tooth ripping blade got 5 stars on Amazon, compared to the Diablos 3 stars. I took it back and ordered the industrial blade. 
That said, I do like the Diablo 7-1/4" blades for cutting plywood- nice splinter-free cuts. 
My only reason for posting this review is to save fellow woodworkers some hassle. If all you want is fast ripping cuts and you are not concerned with blade marks then you will be happy with the Diablo blade. I'll let you know how the new blade works. 
Cheers


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## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

As *PurpLev* already noted, this blade is more designed for reducing the bog that comes on an underpowered saw in which a full kerf might lead to burning when ripping a thicker hardwood board. Less teeth, more gullets, easier stock removal, less smooth a surface. Thinner kerf, more vibration on the arbor, less smooth a surface. What is the payoff? Less strain on the saw motor when working with thicker stock and it is much easier to finish plane/sand small saw marks than blade burns. Not having the funds (nor the machine) to see major beneifts from using the more expensive WWII style blades, I have been very happy with all of the Freud blades in my shop. I rarely use any other.

David


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## dusty2 (Jan 4, 2009)

Are blade marks necessarily a bad thing? Only if you have paid the price to get a mirror finish smooth glue line cut. A $40 investment usually doesn't do that.

I think you probably got what you paid for.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

David - I have been happy with all my other Freud blades as well, but I don't recommend the Diablo rip blade.

Dusty - Yes, blade marks are a bad thing. My Freud combination blade doesn't leave blade marks. I have heard very good things about the Freud industrial 24 tooth ripping blade. I ordered it (less than $40) so we will see.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

pinto , just a few questions, please. 
Do you not joint the edges of your boards before finishing or assembling your projects ?
Were the marks deeper than 1/32" ?
Were you ripping to finished width with limited stock ? ie: why did you choose a thin kerf blade on such a thick and tough wood ? Did you try a blade stabilizer ?
thanks : )


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Probably redundant but, have you insured good fence to blade alignment?


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Hey Dusty good questions.
I use a jointer to straighten a face and an edge of rough stock, but I don't go back to it after the tablesaw. It's just easier to get a perfect cut with the workpiece flat on the tablesaw. The marks were not more than 1/32". 
I chose a thin kerf blade because that is what blade maufacturers recommend for 1.5 h.p. saws.
I have used other thin kerf blades with no need for a blade stabilizer in stock up to 8/4. If the industrial thin kerf blade looks like it needs a stabilizer I will try one.

Gene,
Yes the fence is a t-square type. I checked it for parallel to the blade which it was. The blade was also square to the table. A zero clearance insert with thin kerf splitter and featherboard were also used. I think it is just the tooth geometry of this low end blade.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

Thank you : )


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## agallant (Jul 1, 2010)

I have this blade too, it makes construction quality cuts so that is what I use it for. I was wishing for more but it was not to be….


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## radialarmsaw (Oct 21, 2011)

The Freud Industrial blade is a better choice. I have a Contractor's saw, and always use thin kerf blades. The only time I experience any blade marks or burn is when ripping 8/4 purpleheart of hard maple. I don't have a power jointer, so I use my number 8 jointer hand plane to true up the stock prior to assembly. Takes some time, but you want good tight fitting joints prior to glue up, or else be prepared for problems down the line.

Scott


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## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

The Diablo line is more of a rough cut, contractor grade as opposed to a fine furniture grade blade. It is designed more for cutting rough lumber than fine hardwoods. If you are expecting glass smmoth cuts from a Diablo your expectations are way too high, its not gonna happen


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

MedicKen - 
I tend to agree with you about the Diablo line. However I have a Diablo thin kerf 60 tooth fine finish crosscut blade that makes perfect crosscut on the tablesaw. The D1024X in particular seems to be just a good construction blade, and nothing more.


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## slickSqueegie (Oct 8, 2011)

I cant believe this blade got a bad review???

Blade marks happen! the wood twists and moves as you cut! These things should be expected! I respectfully disagree with your review. I have 2 of those blades and have never been happier with a blade!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Slicksqueegie,
The cuts I made with this blade were on kiln dried, freshly jointed and planed quartersawn white oak. There was no twisting or moving of my stock. 
As I mentioned earlier, if you are doing general construction it would be okay. For furniture building I recommend the Freud 50 tooth full kerf combination blade. Flat bottom grooves for joinery, and glass-smooth rips.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

This is an inexpensive 24T rip blade. Efficient rougher cuts in thick wood is what it's designed to do. You'd need step up to a model with more teeth to get smoother cuts, but those won't rip 2"+ material as easily without increased bogging and burning. Without seeing the results, it's hard to know just how it did, but I wouldn't expect an overly clean cut….some of the better 24T FTG rippers might do a little better but the best of them still won't leave polished edges.

No single blade excels at all cutting tasks, and most shops benefit from having multiple blades with varying capabilities. Assuming all other parameters are equal, less teeth = faster/rougher cut that's more efficient ….more teeth = slower/smoother cut with more resistance. Blades made to a happy medium don't do well when they venture very far to either extreme of thick ripping or fine cuts. The laws of physics just don't bend much.

Here's my blog about picking saw blades for anyone interested.

Routersisstillmyname - We need to get you out of the shop more often! There's a world of blades out there that rival and surpass Freud in many areas. I can think of at least 8 very stout competitors of Freud, that I'm sure they're very aware of. They have some great blades (and bits), but they aren't without equal, and are still capable of escaping defects, which may be the case here.

pintodeluxe - You could have a defective blade on your hands. One way to find out is to exchange it for another and see what you get. If the results are the same, you'll have a pretty good idea that it's the limitations of the design.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Well, I changed my mind on this blade. It rips 8/4 stock like I never thought a contractors saw could. I discovered that the blade marks are not so bad, and actually sand out with normal stock prep. I sand at 120 and 150 and that produces good results.

As my industrial combination blade has dulled, it burns more and more. I find myself using this blade for many tasks.


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