# Skil 127 Restoration Inquiry



## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

I just purchased a 1948 Skil 127 20A 12" worm drive beam saw, which I am currently in the process of stripping down and getting ready for powder coating, and then plan on doing a complete restoration on it.

The saw takes a 11 5/8" blade with a standard diamond arbor, so needless to say, its definitely not something that one can find on the shelves at ANY store, however, I was wondering if anyone might know of a source that fabricates custom sized carbide blades for a decent price ($100 - $150 / blade is a bit high in my book, but considering it might have to be fabricated, what I consider a decent price)

I was also wondering if anyone had any experience working on these saws. This is my first restoration of an older Skil saw, especially of this size, however, I've done quite a few vintage power tool restorations, so I have a decent idea of what I'm doing.

Given the fact that the saw is over 64 years old, I have been lucky to find replacements for most of the important parts (bearings, bearing seals, brush caps & brushes) and have been able to fabricate all the gaskets, however, I was wondering if anyone might know of a source for the worm gear (mine looks to be in amazing shape considering how VERY used the saw looked when I purchased it), or if this is something I'll have to send to a machine shop to get fabricated. The gear doesn't need replacement at the moment, but if replacements are non existent, its probably best to take measurements now while its still in good shape and while I've got it apart.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.


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## ericjo (Jun 3, 2012)

I have been having the same trouble with my 127. I have been trying to find a 12 inch diamond blade. I have been cutting stone with the saw. I ended up cutting off the safety shoe ( I know that is bad). Now I can get a 12 inch blade in it. I called an American saw blade manufacturer who said they buy their blanks with the whole in place (again for a diamond blade). I just took a 12 inch blade to a machine shop who is going to cut the diamond knock out in a one inch whole. I will see how this works, since the center will be missing some metal around the whole.

How did you get the saw apart? My inner bearing is starting to make some noise and I want to get in there and replace it. I was afraid of damaging anything other than the guard. The three screws are now accessible on the blade side.

Also did you find any parts diagrams anywhere and what is your source for the parts you did get. Do you have a source for the age and serial numbers?

Good luck, I love mine and have already cut a lot of limestone with it. It is worth every penny I paid for it and I have been looking for a second one. I just found a 117 groover that I bought also.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I would check with you local saw shop and if they can grind down a 12" blade and if they can't do it check with a larger cities saw shop. Most custom blades start at about $250 you can also check out E bay and craigslist list to see if you can buy one that needs sharpening.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Sounds like fun, I would like to see a picture of that one.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Is it Forrest that makes custom order blades? I thought they did at one time. I think you can order different arbor sizes from them. I'd also gave freud a call/e-mail.


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

Ericjo, to take the saw apart, you first remove the brushes so you don't damage them, then you remove the large nut at the front of the saw. This nut holds the front bearing. Once you remove the front bearing cap, you will need to remove the four large screws on the motor housing. Once you remove the screws, slowly crack the case open. This may take a bit of force to remove the bearing from the back of the motor housing. Take caution to remove the housing so as not to damage the coil or armature. Once the housing is removed, you will need to grip the armature with your hand while using a socket to remove the front bearing retention nut. Once the nut is removed, use a large bearing separator between the gear housing and the fan blade to slowly back out the shaft, at which time the front bearing should slide off. Slowly pull the shaft out until you can reach the bearing retention screws on under the fan blade. Once you remove these screws, you can slowly maneuver the bearing, shaft seal, bearing retention plate and spiral gear from out of the gear housing. Once you remove the the shaft, you can use a micro bearing puller to remove the bearing, oil seal and spiral gear.

To disassemble the blade drive shaft, remove the upper blade guard, the blade retention screw and blade washer. To remove the other side of of the blade washer, you take a micro bearing puller to remove the washer from the shaft spline. Once this is removed, you must remove the lower blade guard. To remove this, you will need to remove the three screws under the guard (I note the notch and the hole in the guard which give you access to the screws below ). Once these screws are removed, the blade guard will slide out.

Once you remove the guard, remove the threw screws on the triangular bearing cover on the other side of the gear housing. Gently pry this cover off and remove the blade shaft. Once the blade shaft is removed, you will gain access to the bearing retention plate on the guard size of the housing. After you have this disassembled, you can use a micro bearing puller to remove the bearing from the shaft.

Once you have the saw disassembled, put the gear housing in a solvent bath to remove all old oil, grease and any contamination that may be within the case. If the oil window does not come clean, remove the retention nut to remove the glass for polishing.

The bearings andcan brushes can be purchased through Eurton Electric online. The shaft seals can be purchased at most bearing supply shops. The gaskets for the most part need to be fabricated out of neoprene gasket material. Use care when working with the worm drive gears, as they are obsolete and have no replacement other than to have them fabricated at a machine shop.

If you need the parts diagram, please email me and I will send you a copy of the complete parts diagram. If you have any more questions, feel free to message me.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://www.skiltools.com/Parts-And-Service/Pages/Service-Consumer-Tools.aspx

http://vintagemachinery.org/

Maybe the folks at Skil can help. HTH


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

As for the blade, the Freud P412 is part of Freud's industrial line, and thus is based off a 300mm format, rather than the true 12" format. I spoke with a local saw shop that is willing to grind the carbides on it 3/32", dropping the blade down to a true 11 5/8". They are also going to tack in a 1 - 5/8" reducer and grind out the diamond pattern so that it will fit the saw correctly. All of their grinding is done under fluid, so it won't damage the carbides, and the best part, they are going to do the complete sharpening and modification for $45.00.

Granted, its still roughly a $145.00 for a blade, but as long as a person don't use it on lumber that might contain metal or stones, the blade should last for quite some time.

Now for age. The Skil 127 was manufactured from 1943 to 1970. The original blue SkilSaw logo on the blade cover and the oval name plate are from 1943 - (1955? - 1958?). In 1959, they changed over to the black rectangular nameplate with orange Skil lettering and started painting the saw with a silver anodized finish. I also believe that in the mid 60's, Skil started using an orange switch and orange brush holders, though the overall construction of the saw and the internal gearing stayed exactly the same.


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## ericjo (Jun 3, 2012)

Thanks a lot Bree. I am almost done with my limestone project. I will overhaul it when I am done.


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## mikemcg (Jul 10, 2012)

Thanks for the posts on the Skil 127 Bree. Having just bought one myself, I'd be very interested to hear how your restoration is proceeding.


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

My restoration is complete at this point. Once I got everything chemical washed, I found that the saw was in much better condition than I originally thought, and I was able to just press and bolt everything back together, fill it up with lube, adjust the brushes and go. Grounding the saw was a bit interesting, as my saw had no means of easily grounding.


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## sethC (Sep 24, 2012)

i just got a skilsaw 127 and was able to fit a true 12" 305mm blade in it with a 1" arbor. Granted the diamond arbor on the saw was modified to fit a 1" saw blade arbor hole. I beleive the previous owner had also ground down the inside of the blade guard itself to make it larger to accept a true 12" blade, rather than modifying the saw blades which could become costly over the long run.


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## mikemcg (Jul 10, 2012)

Can you describe how much was removed from the inside of the blade guard in order for the 12" blade to fit?


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## sethC (Sep 24, 2012)

It looks as if 4mm was removed from the lower blade guard by the previous owner or a machine shop. The upper blade guard has no indication that it was modified.


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## davecat (Oct 12, 2012)

Hi, I am brand new to these forums but I got here searching for info on the Skil 127 saw that I an currently using it to build timber frame and log projects at home. I was wondering if you had any info on how high to fill the oil in the gear box? Also I have to replace the switch so if anyone has any tips for me that would be great. The switch has broken components. As for the blade situation, I just machined out the diamond with a dremel cut off wheel using a smaller blade for a template.


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

Davecat, depending on the date of manufacture of your Skil 127, there will either be a sight glass or an oil fill line on the side of the gear case, fill to that line or to the center of the sight glass. Make sure to use hypoid gear oil or to use Skil worm drive gear oil to fill it, as other forms of oils can foam up, at which time they loose their effectiveness to lubricate the worm gear.

As for the switch, what parts of the switch are broken? Often, the Cutler-Hammer switches used in the 127, as well as many other Skil saws of that era, are extremely easy to rebuild and to fabricate. If the switch is completely trashed or otherwise unable to be rebuilt, you can use the switch off of any blue label Skil saw (77, 87, 107, 117, etc.). The base switch, minus the trigger, can be found in a lot of the 1940's era Delta tools.


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## 1Ranger (Oct 14, 2012)

Been enjoying reviewing this forum for a while. Now have a model 127. (Also got a model 825 from the same guy, it runs great). I'm guessing it is a 40's or 50' era model. It wouldn't run when I got it. Seems the last owner tried to run the saw without cleaning the years of gearbox oil that had combined with sawdust and gummed up the saw pretty much everywhere and fried the wires to the switch. I cut them shorter after cleaning up the armature. Cleaned it up without going farther than the armature and it now runs. I Installed a 12" carbide which fits and turns without issue. However, the switch remains sticky despite cleaning repeatedly with brakeclean. Maybe not the best choice? What solvent are you using to cut the gearbox oil that seems to get everywhere in these saws? I've read about using kerosene somewhere, maybe even here. Perhaps I need to replace some seals to? Thanks for any help.

FYI, model 825 w/original metal box for $100 here: http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/tls/3274299126.html


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

In regard to cutting grease and oxidization from the housing of the saw, I generally give the saw a bath in phosphoric acid for 45 minutes to an hour. For the worm gears, bearings and other solid steel parts, I have found that a bath in trichlorethylene overnight seems to be very effective.

Once the aluminum has soaked, I wash it with water to neutralize the acid, and then blow out and break up dirt and debris with compressed air. If its especially dirty or oxidized, I will use a wire wheel to remove debris and to polish the aluminum.

Trichlorethylene seems to be the most effective means of cleaning most metal parts and really helps with removing paint, grease and debris. The phosphoric acid is very effective at quickly breaking down old grease and removing rust and oxidization from many metal parts.

As for the switch, this link ( http://devwiki.owwm.com/(S(lv3z1j45rqix2b45drf1m445))/History.aspx?Page=Fixing%20a%20Dead%20Switch&Revision=00003 ) provides a pretty easy to follow set of instructions of how to take apart the switch body, as the switch bodies are the same. If you switch is being sticky, your best bet would be a bunch of q-tips and stoddard solvent (mineral spirits) and to individually clean each part of the switch, rather than soaking the switch.

If you are leaking a lot of oil either out of the blade shaft or out of the armature shaft, your best bet is to replace all of your oil seals and gaskets. The two primary shaft seals are kind of hit or miss for availability. I was able to find a few sets at a local bearing and was able to fabricate all of the other seals as necessary. If they are completely shot, it wouldn't hurt trying to hunt a set down through a local bearing shop.


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## 1Ranger (Oct 14, 2012)

Thanks for all the direction, got to find time to work on the saw again.


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## 4THGENERATION (Jan 9, 2013)

I HAVE A SKIL SAW 127 IN GREAT SHAPE. NEVER PAINTED. BEEN IN MY FAMILY SINCE NEW. LAST TIME USED IN 1971-1972. TOOK IT OUT OF A HOME MADE BOX AND PLUGGED IT IN, LET IT RUN 30 MINUTES. NO PROBLEMS, NO OVERHEATING. CORD SHOWS NO CRACKS OR BRITTLENESS. LITTLE WGEAR OIL LEAKED OUT, MAYBE TEASPOON IN 30 MINUTES. PROBABLY NEEDS NEW GASKET OR SEAL? HAVE 4 OR 5 BLADES WITH IT. DIAMOND KNOCKOUTS. ANY NEED FOR SOMETHING LIKE THIS? PICTURES SOON…................

PUT VOLTMETER TO GROUND SVERAL TIMES AND PLACES OVER 30 MINUTES AND NO SHORTS. LIGHT FROM BRUSHES IS TINY AND BLUE JUST LIKE IT SHOULD BE.


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## davecat (Oct 12, 2012)

I would be interested in buying this saw if you don't want to keep it. What part of the country are you in? I am in Washington state. I have one of these saws but it needs work. I also found the 5" version of the same saw, I believe its a "527". I attached a pic that I found entertaining.


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## 4THGENERATION (Jan 9, 2013)

WELL I DONT NEED IT, HAVE SOME OTHER INTERESTS. DAMN THING WEIGHS, GUESS 40-50 POUNDS. HOME MADE METAL BOX WEIGHS 35-40#. AND I HAVE A TOTAL OF EITHER 4-5 BLADES. NOT, CARBIDE TIPPED, BUT THEY GO WITH THIS SAW AS THEY HAVE THE DIAMOND KNOCKOUT AND 2 OR 3 BUNCH CROWD THE SAW GUARD. THE BIGGEST MITE ACTUALLY BE 11 5/8. I WOULD LIKE TO GET A CHANCE TO GET A PIC OR TWO, MAYBE A SHORT VIDEO WITH MY PHONE OF IT RUNNING. FOR YOUR PERUSAL. THAT PIC OF YOURS LOOKS LIKE THE OLD MODEL 77 SKIL SAW WITH WORM GEARS. I HAVE ONE OF THOSE AS WELL. 7 1/4 INCH. THIS 12" SAW IS HEAVY HEAVY DUTY AND COMPARED TO THAT PIC LOOKS BRAND NEW, LOL. IT HAS NOT BEEN USED AND WELL TAKEN CARE OF, STORED IN A HUMIDITY CONTROLLED ENVIROMENT. ANYWAY, IF ITS OK, YOU CAN CONTACT ME AT [email protected] WITH A REGULAR EMAIL ADDRESS SO IN A DAY OR TWO I CAN SEND YOU A VIDEO.

I KNOW, WITH BLADES OR NOT, THIS THING IS NOT A 100.00 SAW. I BELIEVE I PROBABLY HAVE ONE OF A KIND. IM THE LAST ONE LEFT IN A 114 YEAR OLD FAMILY BUSINESS. IM 60, LOL. SEND ME AN EMAIL AND ID YOURSELF. THANKS IN ADVANCE.


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## 4THGENERATION (Jan 9, 2013)

IF ANYONE MIGHT BE INTERESTED, I NOW HAVE SEVERAL PICS OF MY 127, SAW BLADES, AND AN MP4 VIDEO WITH SOUND. JUST GOTTA FIGURE OUT HOW TO MAKE IT SHORTER OR COMPRESS IT AS THE MP4 FILE IS 33 MB AND AOL AND OR GMAIL WILL ONLY UPLOAD UP TO 25. ANY IDEAS?

THANKS,

BRAD


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

Davecat, the smaller 5" saw is likely the Skil 67.

4thGeneration, the Skil 77 is generally going for $30 - $100 depending on condition, whether or not it has the original case, etc. The Skil 127 in poor shape is generally around $125 ~ $150, in good shape it can go for upwards of $250 ~ $300, especially with blades. Though there are no commonly available 11 5/8" blades with the diamond knockout, you can fit a standard 12" blade with a modified knockout on it and it functions just fine, just has very little tolerance between the guard and the blade.

Have you tried uploading the images to imgur and the video to youtube? Apps like FreeMake video converter make it extremely easy to convert and upload videos.


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## davecat (Oct 12, 2012)

BreeStephany,
Is the 4th generation tools your referring to have the blue label or is that also true for the 3rd generation? If you have a rough description on the remaining generations I would like to get that info. Additionally do you know how many different tools they have in those production years? I have a drill with the orange "Skil" lettering that I think is 1970's and a locomotive sander with an orange label that is from the 1960's. Thanks for all the info so far and anymore that you can provide.


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## 4THGENERATION (Jan 9, 2013)

lol, that so funny.

the 4th generation i am referring to is the fact that i am a 4th generation oklahoma builder, the last one left in a group of family business's that's been ongoing for 114 years. i had to take over and somewhat reorganize it at 17, in 1970. I've been at this for 43 years full time, add in summers and high school jr high, probably close to 50 years. i have had a job since i was 11.

i chose that name as an indication to anyone who might wonder why i have some of these old toys.

lol, we used to have 300 employees, lotsa equipment, and were the largest commercial general contractors in the state of oklahoma in the 20's and 30's into the 40's, and later, one of the three largest contractors. started downsizing in the 70's.

i chuckle a bit when i read about you as it seems youve been at this maybe 7 years?

i think i opened up a treasure in this saw and i have others. i just want a fair price for it and the blades. one guy said sumpin bout 25.00, and offended me, wanted the blades for free.

i also have 3 skil orange label locomotive HD belt sanders, and they were late 60's, early 70's. I have a couple of Skil Model 77 worm gear skil saws.

the 127 saw with a blade and new cord weighs in at 35-37 pounds, the all metal case on the skil 77 saws weigh in at 18-20#.

my daughter, my only heir besides my huskys, is a up and coming famous doc/surgeon in ga. and i need to be rid of all this stuff so she never has to come back to okiehomie on my behalf.

if i can help you anymore, with questions, i may have a few parts diagrams somewhere, i was taught to fix things and or fabricate things, lol, i have a client now that calls me mcgyver, so i can mcgyver things, lol, let me know.

and on the blades, they are priceless. if you had custom diamond knock out 11 5/8 blades made, they would cost ya new upwards of 350.00 to 450.00. I have three, ready to go. Seems the saws in bad shape sell on a good day for 450.00. Mines like new, for its time. It just needs new worm gear oil, that is still sold, for less than 10.00.

thanks, brad tankersley


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## davecat (Oct 12, 2012)

Wow, I totally misread that previous post that I replied to. I thought BreeStephany was identifying the model generations, I reviewed all the postings and found the age descriptions (they were hiding from me) but if there is any info on what other tools they made with the blue label that would be great! The two saws in my pic I guess I got lucky, I paid no more than $25 for either of them. Thanks


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## davecat (Oct 12, 2012)

Just found this 20" model 127 with dado attachment and knew you all would appreciate seeing this. Here is the link on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Beam-Saw-and-Dato-Saw-Roof-Cutting-Model-127-/150407011187?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2304f4db73


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## darthdude (Jan 28, 2013)

Hi Bree, I just picked up a 127 myself! I was curious if you had part numbers for the bearings you could share? I took my saw apart, cleaned the insides and put everything back together with a new 10gauge lead, new gaskets and oil. It honestly sounds like the bearings are fine, but I'm thinking it wouln't hurt to have new ones around. Thanks!


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## Juddp (Mar 2, 2013)

Great post. I just picked up a mint 127, I looked for 3 years for a nice one and came in on price where BreeStephany stated.

Does anyone know where I could find a manual (dirty paper)?

Thanks


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## 4THGENERATION (Jan 9, 2013)

WELL FOLKS. I FINALLY SOLD MY 127 TO A COLLECTOR IN NYC FOR 1,800.00. GUESS IT WAS IN MINT CONDITION (IT WAS)........................TRIED EBAY AND GOT OFFERS LESS THAN 100.00, EVEN THOUGH I HAD A VIDEO OF IT STARTING AND RUNNING MULTIPLE TIMES ON YOU TUBE. CRAIGSLIST DID IT FOR ME. THE GUY MUST HAVE USED A NATIONAL CRAIGSLIST SEARCH AS IM IN OKLAHOMA….............


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## sides (Aug 23, 2014)

So, I've always wanted an older vintage skilsaw, being a builder for many many years now I once had a Black and Decker worm drive that was archaic, broken beyond repair and a piece of crap. Recently, I happened upon an estate sale where I had been stopping by each evening after work, and buying fistfuls of hand tools by SK Wayne for $2.00 or so each time I stopped by. Very reasonable on the pricing. I showed up the other day and there was a model 107 Skilsaw on the floor. It was marked $6.99. I grabbed it up…....... Ugh…..... Heavy!!! Anyways, the guy running the sale asked me if I wanted to try it out, which I did. Thing ran beautifully. The fella notes the price tag then asks me to make an offer. I had only $4 in my wallet and was actually going to have them hold it, but I threw it out there and the guy went for it. $4 and this thing is unbelievably clean folks! Anyways, the oil seals are shot and so it looks like I need to embark on a search for seals. I'll attempt to get some photos of it up here if anyones interested.


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## 4THGENERATION (Jan 9, 2013)

YOURE BEST BET WOULD BE CRAIGSLIST AND HOPE FOR A NATIONAL SEARCH. ON HERE A COUPLE OF THESE POSTERS OFFERED ME 60.00 FOR THE SAW AND BLADES. IF YOU SCROLL UP YOULL SEE I GOT 1800.00 FOR IT. IT WAS BLUE LABEL AND IN PERFECT ALMOST BRAND NEW CONDITION. ON EBAY I DIDNT FARE ANY BETTER.


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## sides (Aug 23, 2014)

Yeah, I see some idiot attempting to sell his for $5,000. Geeze. This is part of the reason why things are so gosh darned expensive ….......Greedy people wanting a retirement for nothing.  No, I'm not interested in selling mine at all. I genuinely have an appreciation for classics of the past. It's a reflection of the way people used to behave.


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## sides (Aug 23, 2014)

SO! Can anyone cue me to whether or not there is a seal at the rear motor bearing that should need attention? This bearing obviously doesn't ride in a bath of oil…....... so concerned about whether this bearing needs special attention or don't worry?


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## sides (Aug 23, 2014)

Okie Dokie, so much information! I'll figure it out


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## MaxContent (Jan 19, 2015)

Just picked up what looks like a nice model 127 on eBay and have started the blade search. I need to make nice finished cuts in 4" Doug fir. Anyone find a 12" diamond arbor blade, or am I going to have to do an arbor shaft mod to run 1"?

I've also considered taking an existing blade with a diamond knockout and turning a spacer out of it that would press fit into a 1" arbor hole …

Thanks -


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

Having used skil saws a little bit, are you planning on that 12" 127 being a daily user, or are you a tool nut like
some of us and just like to restore old tools and use them occasionally. For a daily user, the new 12" miter
saws with the belt drive give you a lot more blade depth of cut than that 127 will and will make a lot more
accurate cut, if you a looking for a saw that will work with timbers. Just curious.


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## MaxContent (Jan 19, 2015)

Project application, need to cut timber to length just to get it on the miter saw. A finished cut would eliminate the miter saw completely. Unless you want to come help me move 20' 4×12s …


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

Pulled on the green chain at Anaconda Forest Products on the shop station in the early 60's, some of those boards were 2" X 30" X 16" long and wet, do not really need any more experience with heavy planks unless
it is necessary for one of my own projects.


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## MaxContent (Jan 19, 2015)

Tried to message Bree to get a copy of the parts diagram but don't have enough points yet. Bree, would you please send me the parts diagram? Thanks.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I could use a parts diagram too. The spindle oil seal on my Skil model 77 is leaking and I think they use the same one. That $5000 price tag on the 20" Skil does seem high, but a brand new Mafell is around $4000 and isn't even that big. I thought the 16 5/16" blades for my Makita beams saws were expensive, yikes!!


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## MaxContent (Jan 19, 2015)

It looks like the diagram for the model 107 is very similar to the 127. Use google image search.


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## Panelbeatr (Sep 3, 2015)

Looking for a good shoe for my blue tag 127. I found it buried in the back of a tool repair shop. Looks mechanically rebuilt but apparently they couldn't find a replacement shoe. May have been "resting" on the shelf for 30 years. No one has touched on the 115 volt DC rating of these saws. Connect 10 car batteries in series & go to work???


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## Panelbeatr (Sep 3, 2015)




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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

That's a great looking saw, wish I could help with the shoe, maybe Ebay? 10 car batteries in series and your in business, might be a little easier with a generator, but the set up would certainly be unique!


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

The plate clearly states 115 volts AC-DC up to 60 cy (normal US AC is 60 cycles). Quite a few old tools 
were built so you could run them off a DC generator on a welder, most were grinders used by welders,
but a big saw like this would be used on construction where welders were available, so it could be used
with either AC or DC current. In an emergency you could use an AC drill off the welder for a while, but
you would probably have to replace the switch afterwards, do not ask how I know this.


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## MaxContent (Jan 19, 2015)

Here is a copy of the SKIL MODEL TYPE 3 part diagram direct from SKIL:

http://postimg.org/image/4m90sjpr7/

Also the parts list:

http://postimg.org/image/4niylyrkz/


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## TheChemist (Sep 26, 2015)

Would anyone have an owners manual for this saw? I just bought a nice one from a fellow who inherited it from his grandfather who bought it new. Doesn't look like it's been used much at all.
Thanks.


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## Idaho49 (Aug 17, 2016)

Hello, new here. I'm a retired gent in Idaho with way too many hobbies and projects.

One of these is a vintage Skil 127 I just aquired. It runs but needs the switch rebuilt. Also, has a very odd arbor; It's splined and measures .76 across the widestest, and .65 across the grooves. The serial number on the blue label is: A 12932. Ill try to attach a pic .

I need it to cut slabs from the 48" dia black walnut I cut and milled 5 years ago. My Bigfoot M77 just won't cut it! By the way, there was a guy on eBay selling Mobil SCH 636 synthetic, hypoid oil for these saws.

Any advise would be appreciated ( I've read all the posts I could find).

Many Thanks.


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

Idaho,

Could you send pictures of your arbor? It kind of sounds like you are missing the diamond pattern arbor insert that goes over the arbor shaft.



> Hello, new here. I m a retired gent in Idaho with way too many hobbies and projects.
> 
> One of these is a vintage Skil 127 I just aquired. It runs but needs the switch rebuilt. Also, has a very odd arbor; It s splined and measures .76 across the widestest, and .65 across the grooves. The serial number on the blue label is: A 12932. Ill try to attach a pic .
> 
> ...


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## Idaho49 (Aug 17, 2016)

Ok, I'll set up a PB account. Or you could email me?

I do appreciate this.

Clair


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Does your arbor look like this:










If so, you should have one of these to slide over it to mount a blade:


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## Idaho49 (Aug 17, 2016)

No, like the top photo but someone has hamhandedly pounded a flange/blade washer over the arbor and splines; there is no diamond and that's probably why. The saw has a large weld repair over the cracked ringgear-bearing housing, so not really a candidate for restoration. The pinion gear looks really good, however, so concentricity seems OK.

I need a user saw to rip 4" thick black walnut and thought 20 amps and a worm drive would have more torque than a Makita beam saw. Once the slabs are whittled down and more manageable, I may try ripping on a vintage 14" DeWalt radial I own.

At the moment, my plan is to file spline notches in the inner " race" of a Freud 5/8-1" adapter, and mount on a twelve inch rip blade with perhaps tape and really good washer contact to prevent slipping.

Bree very kindly emailed me a note and I sent her a pic. She also walked me through switch repair, as that old link has died. What a peach!

I'll keep ya'll posted, thanks so much for the help!


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## Idaho49 (Aug 17, 2016)

Mr. Y and others,
Thanks so much for the interest.

Still trying to get this poor old brute up and running. The problem is that the large washer/flange whomever pounded over the splined arbor, is not close to square with the axis of the arbor. So of course, blade wobble is inevitable.

If anyone out there knows a source for the "diamond" arbor part, which fits over the spline, I'd be greatful for the information.

I did cobbled-up an adapter insert, 5/8 to 1 inch, and got a blade mounted. The relatively cheap, 12", 44 tooth blade from HD, worked great to "enlarge" the lower blade guard to handle full 12" blades. Simply mounted the blade and spun it by hand to chip off the aluminum protruding. Nice, new, sharp carbide was no match for old cast aluminum.

Very best, and thanks again,

CK


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## Idaho49 (Aug 17, 2016)

Still looking for a Skilsaw 127 arbor blade washer/splined bushing. Found an old mod. 77 and it has 8 lands/grooves instead of 6 :-(

Will gladly trade parts from said model 77.

Best to all,

Clair in Idaho


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## Idaho49 (Aug 17, 2016)

Hello, does anyone happen to own a Skil 107 wormdrive saw? If so, could you possibly pull the blade and slip off the washer to see if the arbor shaft is 6-splined? Still looking for 127 arbor drive washer.

Thanks much,

Clair

(Tried a Makita, older, gold beam saw on my 4" thick black walnut; no go, too much friction and lack of torque).


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I have a couple of the gold Makita saws (16 5/16") and the key to getting them to cut well is a very sharp steel blade or better yet a sharp carbide blade. They have a little better clearance (usually) between the kerf and the plate alllowing for less friction.


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## Idaho49 (Aug 17, 2016)

Thanks. I was using a new Diablo (Freud) carbide blade. Black walnut is tough!

Enjoy Thanksgiving,

Clair


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## angelobellomo (May 9, 2017)

@Breestephany
Where did you end up getting the diamond arbor cutout milled into your blades?


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## Idaho49 (Aug 17, 2016)

Can't recall, Bree (65 this year !). I have the saw (which I'd like to sell) at a friend's house. I'll get back to you Sat.

Part of the problem trimming my 4"x30"x7' black walnut slab, was the internal stress in the wood (dried for 6 years). There is always a bit of movement during the cut, even with wedges, and the big wheel gets pinched.


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

@angelobellomo

I had the first done at a saw shop, but after that, decided to try my own hand at it with a dremel and an file, which worked just as well. I took a diamond knockout insert adapter, got a bolt that was the same size as the hole on the adapter and on the blade and bolted the two together, then took a scratch awl and marked the outline of the adapter. After marking, I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to trim out the material inside the mark and then used a file to fine tune until I had a good even fit.

I honestly haven't noticed a bit of difference between the blade the saw shop did and the ones I modified myself.



> @Breestephany
> Where did you end up getting the diamond arbor cutout milled into your blades?
> 
> - angelobellomo


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## ToolguyKen (Dec 10, 2017)

Hello all, I was cruising around for information on my Skil 127 and found you all. Seems like a fun group who likes to play with (and work) classic old tools, as do I. My hope is that someone here has some parts for one of these that they could part with. What I need specifically is the blade guard, and also I would like to find some blades and also the box for it. I appreciate all of your effort. Thanks, Ken


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

@ToolguyKen

I have a pretty good stockpile of parts, unfortunately, I do not have the blade guard for the 127 or 107, and I too, have yet to find a box for this saw. I'm not completely sure that Skil ever made a box for the 127, to be quite honest, though I could be wrong, haven't found a lot of information either way in that regard.

As for the blades, your best bet on blades is to modify your own to fit. You can use a 12" miter saw / chop saw blade and cut in your own diamond pattern to fit the spindle on the 127. To adapt the blade, you can go to Lowes, Home Depot or most any other hardware store and get a saw arbor adapter kit and use the diamond arbor adapter as a template for modifying the blade. Take an 5/8" bolt and nut, tighten the diamond adapter down and then use a metal scribe to scribe in the pattern for the diamond.

Using a dremel and a set of fine files, you can remove the excess material on the blade and get the diamond cut in pretty quickly and pretty accurately.

If you are using the saw a lot, I definitely suggest modifying a few blades so you have one or two extras in case you break a tooth or for when you wear down the blade in use.



> Hello all, I was cruising around for information on my Skil 127 and found you all. Seems like a fun group who likes to play with (and work) classic old tools, as do I. My hope is that someone here has some parts for one of these that they could part with. What I need specifically is the blade guard, and also I would like to find some blades and also the box for it. I appreciate all of your effort. Thanks, Ken
> 
> - ToolguyKen


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

wow - a blast from the past !!!
Ken - when I was working construction many years ago, my coworker had a 127
and I distinctly remember the Blue SkilSaw tag on it. (pre 1959??).
during one of our builds, it died. smoke, sparks and electric shock to the operator
and it was flung into a nearby dumpster and we kept working…......
knowing what I know now, I would give anything to have saved it.

Best of luck in your restore and would love to see the finished photos !!!

ps: if you want to have the tag restored also, there are several places on the interweb that does it.

.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Bree, I found a picture of a 127 that sure looks like a proper Skil box:









It was from an eBay auction last October and the price wasn't horrible given it apparently works and was complete but the shipping, even though it wasn't too far away, was brutal! Definitely something I'd consider if I could get the whole thing for $150 all in.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Skil-Model-127-12-039-Worm-Drive-Saw-/232525638088?rmvSB=true&ul_noapp=true&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-53200-19255-0%252F1%253Ficep_ff3%253D2%2526pub%253D5574631322%2526toolid%253D10001%2526campid%253D5337916647%2526customid%253D%2526icep_item%253D232525638088%2526ipn%253Dpsmain%2526icep_vectorid%253D229466%2526kwid%253D902099%2526mtid%253D824%2526kw%253Dlg%2526srcrot%253D711-53200-19255-0%2526rvr_id%253D1410714208504&nma=true&si=Ch5cPwbIgDWsUCSB3vPm%252FolbOEs%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

@bigblockyeti

I stand corrected. Thanks for the picture.



> Bree, I found a picture of a 127 that sure looks like a proper Skil box:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I also found a complete 107 with box even closer around Detroit but the seller is asking astronomical $$!
https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/tls/d/skil-10-worm-gear-saw-model/6445210447.html


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## darthdude (Jan 28, 2013)

The 127's definitely came with a case, seeing as I have one for my own 127!  Would love to find a 107 someday, its the only blue label saw i don't have yet, they all work great too! (BTW, anyone have an extra blade guard for the model 67?)


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

I'm pretty sure I have one or two NOS blade guards for the 67 laying around in my shop. The next time I make it up there I will definitely take a look and let you know.

One of these days I definitely have to find or build a case for the 127 and 825. I have a 67, 2 or 3 77's, an 825, 107 and 127. Only ones I don't have original cases for are the 825 and 127. 


> The 127 s definitely came with a case, seeing as I have one for my own 127!  Would love to find a 107 someday, its the only blue label saw i don t have yet, they all work great too! (BTW, anyone have an extra blade guard for the model 67?)
> 
> - darthdude


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

If you need any pictures or dimensions for an 825 case, I have two.


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## ToolguyKen (Dec 10, 2017)

Hi All, Speaking of Skil 127s, I saw this on eBay and it sold. The thing looks new, and the listing says it\s from the 60s-70s. and it's 220 volt. Where in the world would a hand tool require 220?
Ken


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

In many countries outside the US where 240VAC @ 50Hz is standard


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

> Hi All, Speaking of Skil 127s, I saw this on eBay and it sold. The thing looks new, and the listing says its from the 60s-70s. and it s 220 volt. Where in the world would a hand tool require 220?
> Ken
> 
> - ToolguyKen


Ken,

The main reason that I think that Skil made the 127 in 120v and 220v is the fact that the 127 pulled 20A at 120v, so in commercial environments or larger construction jobs where a 127 would likely be most used, it was cheaper / easier to make up a 15a 220v supply than to supply 20A with a #12 or #10 cord depending on the length of cord required for the site.

Just my two cents.


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

> In many countries outside the US where 240VAC @ 50Hz is standard
> 
> - bigblockyeti


Also this!


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Bree, any new projects? Love to see what you've got cooking now.


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

> Bree, any new projects? Love to see what you ve got cooking now.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


Not a whole lot in the tool realm right now, have a few irons in the fire that need my attention first. I'm finishing up an overhaul on an International 345, in the midst of an overhaul on a Lycoming O-320-H2AD, doing the school thing and have been working and helping a friend build his house during winter break.

I'm hoping to get a few projects lined up come spring.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Yeah not so much tool related, but sounds very interesting nonetheless, especially the Lycoming!


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## ToolguyKen (Dec 10, 2017)

Hi All, Thanks for all of the thoughtful replies. Most interesting that a business would buy 220 tools so that they could use a tool with a lighter cord. Makes sense. Amazing how new that thing looks. I'm surprised that this was made that late, unless the lister is mistaken.
Now the rest of the story about my 127. While cruising yard sales one Saturday, I found this for 5 bucks. There was no cord, but for 5 bucks I thought it would be a fun project. Good thing there was no cord, as I would have probably electrocuted myself, given its condition and amount of gunk inside.The seals were shot, but I could buy them at my local Skil store.There was no plate on it, buy the guy recognized it right away as a 127. All 5 roller bearings were rough, but they turned, so rather than spend the money, I decided that I would change them if I could find the guard, and finish the restore. I only had the 1 steel blade, so I sharpened it in the vise with a file. After I finished, I tried it out on some 4×4s. Slow speed , but amazing power! Went through a 4×4 like a lesser saw would go through a 2×2. Now the really cool part. A dear friend, who was a elderly retired machinist, had a FULL machine shop in his basement. While visiting one day, I saw his 127 laying in a corner. He said he bought it new about 1946 to build his house, for, I think he said, $130.00. What's that adjusted for inflation? About a Bazillion dollars? I should have tried to buy it when I saw it.
Take Care all, Ken


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Neat story about the 127, forgive me if I'm repeating myself but my blue label 77 has quite a family history too. Bought new (I think) by my dad's uncle somewhere around Geneva, IL and used for an undetermined time framing new residential construction. He bounced from job to job quite a bit from what I understand and needed some money at some point in time so sold it to his brother in law, my grandfather. He was in sales so only used it a little as a weekend warrior but kept it until he passed in 2005 at which point in time he was divested of everything but a few tools to keep up the house for grandma. My brother got it because he needed a circular saw and a few years later the vintage power tool bug bit me. He was glad to be rid of it as he just needed something lighter that could serve as a good weekend warrior user. Now I've let my collection grow and while I still have two or three vintage skill worm saws torn apart awaiting elusive seals, this still represents a certain level of nostalgia for me every time I use it.


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## WHG (Apr 15, 2020)

First time poster here, digging up an old thread. Considering a Skil 127…..can someone tell me what the cutting depth of a 127 is? I know it will cut a 4" timber, but how much deeper than 4" does it go?
Many Thanks


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

> First time poster here, digging up an old thread. Considering a Skil 127…..can someone tell me what the cutting depth of a 127 is? I know it will cut a 4" timber, but how much deeper than 4" does it go?
> Many Thanks
> 
> - WHG


The depth with most blades is generally between 4-5/16" & 4-3/8" depending on the blade you are using and tooth wear.


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## PatMcD (Jun 3, 2020)

I'm new here. Stumbled across it when I Google "skil 127". I bought one recently, in its original box. It came with a10" blade on it, but I've modified it to now take any 12" blade.


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## PatMcD (Jun 3, 2020)

Came with all the paperwork, too (oil soaked)


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Looks great, what did you do to the arbor to accept any 12" blade?


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## PatMcD (Jun 3, 2020)

Had a buddy put the arbor in his lathe and turn off the "points" of the diamond. It didn't take much. Then I took a 7" disc grinding wheel to the inside of the lower guard to create more room. Pretty easy. I didn't want to have to deal with cutting a diamond out of every blade I bought or having to buy 300mm blades. Going to any hardware store to buy blades is a lot more convenient.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Yeah, I'm sure it's far more convenient. I've let a few slip through my fingers and the only deals that pop up on ebay are far enough away to cost a fortune to ship. One day I'll have one!


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## l4tt310Xb8jm (Jul 16, 2020)

Nice thread, oldie but goodie. I have one of these model 127's I can barely lift these days. Its in original box/case, blue label, 8 spare original blades (Catalogue # 382 12" combination) and some used parts saved from a repair of the gears. I learned a lot about it here. Thanks to all. May be coming to a point where I will need to be finding it a good home.


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