# Tips for applying Zinsser Bin primer



## SuzyQ222 (Feb 17, 2020)

I am having a bit of trouble applying Zinsser Bin primer. I initially tried the spray version and while it went on very well in some areas, I had overspray in others and it made a mess. So last night I tried to apply it on part of my piece first with a high density foam roller and then with a wooster shorty….the cheap 5$ brush. One piece went on fairly well, but the other….not so much. When I tried to brush, the brush shed and after a few brushes it got to be a sticky mess! Not sure where to go from here. I know I an sand it afterwards, but I want to avoid having different # of layers of primer. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated!


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

Which formula is it? Do you have a pic of the can? Also, what is the temp and humidity when you are trying to apply it?


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## SuzyQ222 (Feb 17, 2020)

It's the shellac based in the red can. I'm in Florida so there is humidity, but not raining or anything.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Which material are you applying the primer?


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## SuzyQ222 (Feb 17, 2020)

It's raw pine.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Thank you.

"WOOD
Bare wood that has been exposed for more than 4 weeks should be lightly sanded with 80-100 grit sandpaper to remove loose or weathered wood fibers. For new Cedar and Redwood applications, allow B-I-N Shellac-Base Primer to dry 24 hours before painting or topcoating. Sand interior bare wood surfaces using medium to fine grit sandpaper."

https://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/RustoleumUSA/TDS/English/CBG/Zinsser/BIN-03-B-I-N_Shellac-Base_Primer_Ultimate_Stain_Blocker_TDS_2.ashx

Phone: 877∙385∙8155 www.rustoleum.com/zinsser

Blotch Control springs to mind as well. I've use Charles Neil's, RIP, Blotch Control with good success.


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## ormonddab (Aug 30, 2012)

I use BIN all the time and I'm in Florida too. Love it. It sands so nicely, but can be messy going on. 
I use a chip brush and know that I will get shedding of the bristles, but it sands so nicely that it doesn't seem to matter. On larger pieces I use one of those 4" or 6" rollers with a 1/4" nap. That seems to give me a more even coat.
Whether it ooes on a little thick or thin, it seems to do the job, primes nicely and sands smooth. If it is a little thick in places, you can take a cloth or paper towel wet with Denatured Alcohol and smooth it out. It dries in about 45 min ready to sand.
Good luck


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## SuzyQ222 (Feb 17, 2020)

Thanks. I have seen this but still having trouble with application.


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## SuzyQ222 (Feb 17, 2020)

> I use BIN all the time and I m in Florida too. Love it. It sands so nicely, but can be messy going on.
> I use a chip brush and know that I will get shedding of the bristles, but it sands so nicely that it doesn t seem to matter. On larger pieces I use one of those 4" or 6" rollers with a 1/4" nap. That seems to give me a more even coat.
> Whether it ooes on a little thick or thin, it seems to do the job, primes nicely and sands smooth. If it is a little thick in places, you can take a cloth or paper towel wet with Denatured Alcohol and smooth it out. It dries in about 45 min ready to sand.
> Good luck
> ...


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## SuzyQ222 (Feb 17, 2020)

> Thank you.
> 
> "WOOD
> Bare wood that has been exposed for more than 4 weeks should be lightly sanded with 80-100 grit sandpaper to remove loose or weathered wood fibers. For new Cedar and Redwood applications, allow B-I-N Shellac-Base Primer to dry 24 hours before painting or topcoating. Sand interior bare wood surfaces using medium to fine grit sandpaper."
> ...


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

I use shellac based BIN exclusively for primer. I spray it and brush it.

I'm also in FL but I've never had an issue I can think of.

I've never rolled it, always brushed or sprayed. When spraying, I use a pressure pot type and 1.8mm tip. I think you have to be a little bold and spray on a good coat. If the coat is too light its sets up to quickly and creates an overspray type look.

I think you should try a better quality brush.

And keep in mind if its pretty warm, it will tack up quickly if you try to brush over it you'll have a mess.

IMO blotch control is not needed with shellac based primer, more intended to control staining.


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## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

I'm a big fan of the small foam rollers and use one whenever I can. I have always gotten good results with the roller and BIN on flat surfaces. More complex surfaces require a brush or spay. Using a brush, I have found that the finished appearance isn't as even looking. It seems to have thick and thin areas. This has never been a serious issue. I just sand it smooth and put on the finish coats. I have also tried the rattle cans of BIN and don't like them very much. The spray comes out in too much of a stream rather than a controllable spray. This has nothing to do with the product; it is just a poorly designed nozzle.


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## SuzyQ222 (Feb 17, 2020)

Well I ended up giving up on the roller and just used a foam brush. Unfortunately I also knocked over the can on my vinyl floor! UGh!!! I have read that ammonia will clean it up. So far I have used Krud cutter and denatured alcohol and got a lot of it up. The foam brush wasn't great, but I think I got everything covered. I will see how it is when I sand. I think I've had enough of this primer! LOL


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Suzy, ammonia absolutely destroys shellac and is what you want to use. Household ammonia mixed with some warm water should do it. I'm less sure of it's effect on the vinyl, though I doubt it will damage it. But it may have a bad effect on any cabinetry finish if splashed on it, so use some caution. For your project it should sand out quite nicely once dry.


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## SuzyQ222 (Feb 17, 2020)

> Suzy, ammonia absolutely destroys shellac and is what you want to use. Household ammonia mixed with some warm water should do it. I m less sure of it s effect on the vinyl, though I doubt it will damage it. But it may have a bad effect on any cabinetry finish if splashed on it, so use some caution. For your project it should sand out quite nicely once dry.
> 
> - Fred Hargis


Thanks. I went out and bought some. I will try it with warm water. I tried it with regular water but still having to scrub. Luckily it's not near any cabinetry, but it's an apartment, so I have to make sure I get it cleaned up! I can't believe I spilled it, but I've been under the weather lately, so usually more clumsy when I'm not feeling up to par. What do you sand with, because I've had trouble with the 3m 220 grit sandpaper. It seems to sand too much. Should I use 400 instead?


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## SuzyQ222 (Feb 17, 2020)

> I m a big fan of the small foam rollers and use one whenever I can. I have always gotten good results with the roller and BIN on flat surfaces. More complex surfaces require a brush or spay. Using a brush, I have found that the finished appearance isn t as even looking. It seems to have thick and thin areas. This has never been a serious issue. I just sand it smooth and put on the finish coats. I have also tried the rattle cans of BIN and don t like them very much. The spray comes out in too much of a stream rather than a controllable spray. This has nothing to do with the product; it is just a poorly designed nozzle.
> 
> - bilyo
> 
> Wish they had a better nozzle because the part that went out nicely was perfectly smooth! What brand type of foam roller? I used the home depot one's and didn't like them.


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## SuzyQ222 (Feb 17, 2020)

> I use shellac based BIN exclusively for primer. I spray it and brush it.
> 
> I m also in FL but I ve never had an issue I can think of.
> 
> ...


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

I've had trouble with foam rollers leaving it "bumpy", so I now only buy the "velour" type rollers for smooth finish. I really like the Purdy thick core small rollers. When brushing I just make a point to move FAST, i pretend like the oven timer is on and I have to finish primimg before getting the food out lol!


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Why not just use SealCoat (de-waxed shellac) as the primer? No pigment, but it works.


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## CaptainKlutz (Apr 23, 2014)

+1 Bin Primer levels best with heavy coating, followed by lots of sanding.

IN AZ with low RH, I have to add slow thinner help with leveling, and slow initial flash time. Isopropyl alcohol (99%) works ok. When it is over 100° with low RH, have to add propylene glycol or other really slow solvents as retarder.

Since Zinsser Bin primer is shellac based, you can use same solvents one would use to slow down shellac evaporation. There was a detailed discussion the topic here on LJ recently 
Just note that many solvents discussed in other thread are dangerous and require proper PPE. Likely not stuff recommended for use spraying paint in an apartment?

Best Luck.


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## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

> Wish they had a better nozzle because the part that went out nicely was perfectly smooth! What brand type of foam roller? I used the home depot one s and didn t like them.
> 
> - SuzyQ222


 I'm not sure of the brand. I think I got them at Lowes. I usually work with the little detail rollers; about 3" long.



> I've had trouble with foam rollers leaving it "bumpy", so I now only buy the "velour" type rollers for smooth finish. I really like the Purdy thick core small rollers. When brushing I just make a point to move FAST, i pretend like the oven timer is on and I have to finish primimg before getting the food out lol!
> - SMP


Rollers with sharp edges will do that. Try to find the foam rollers with the rounded edges. The short nap rollers like you used is also a good solution. I use those as well.


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## SuzyQ222 (Feb 17, 2020)

> I've had trouble with foam rollers leaving it "bumpy", so I now only buy the "velour" type rollers for smooth finish. I really like the Purdy thick core small rollers. When brushing I just make a point to move FAST, i pretend like the oven timer is on and I have to finish primimg before getting the food out lol!
> 
> - SMP


Thanks for the tips. I think I just had a poor quality roller to begin with. I definitely learned like you said, the key is to move fast! I have very little experience painting, so this was a challenge for me for sure. I think I managed to get it all covered though and it surprisingly doesn't look as bad as I was expecting!


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## SuzyQ222 (Feb 17, 2020)

> Why not just use SealCoat (de-waxed shellac) as the primer? No pigment, but it works.
> 
> - Bill White


 I had thought of trying that, but is it any easier to apply? I am going to paint part of my piece white, so I wanted to make sure I had good coverage before painting.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

I love shellac, and the Bullseye SealCoat can is my go-to easy shellac finish, but if you're painting there's no point in using shellac. The BIN will build faster than straight shellac, and provide a good white base for adding color.


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## SuzyQ222 (Feb 17, 2020)

Well, I started sanding the primer and I can see some of the knots again.. I seem to have this problem every time I try to sand even with a fine grit. Is it better to leave it alone unless there is a very noticeable splotch?


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## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

> Well, I started sanding the primer and I can see some of the knots again.. I seem to have this problem every time I try to sand even with a fine grit. Is it better to leave it alone unless there is a very noticeable splotch?
> 
> - SuzyQ222


Usually, unless the knots are severely bleeding sap, the shellac in the primer has sealed the knot and whether you can see it or not after sanding doesn't matter. A couple of coats of paint should cover it nicely.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

If you're worried about the shape of the knot showing through the paint, you can fill the knot with epoxy or medium/thick CA glue, level sand, and then prime & paint.

If you're worried about the dark knot changing the color, like bilyo said, the knot's been sealed by the primer so it shouldn't bleed sap. The primer's job is to have a surface the paint can bond to. The solids in the paint should cover the color difference in the knot, though it usually takes a couple coats if you're painting a light colored paint.


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## SuzyQ222 (Feb 17, 2020)

> Well, I started sanding the primer and I can see some of the knots again.. I seem to have this problem every time I try to sand even with a fine grit. Is it better to leave it alone unless there is a very noticeable splotch?
> 
> - SuzyQ222
> 
> ...





> Well, I started sanding the primer and I can see some of the knots again.. I seem to have this problem every time I try to sand even with a fine grit. Is it better to leave it alone unless there is a very noticeable splotch?
> 
> - SuzyQ222
> 
> ...





> Well, I started sanding the primer and I can see some of the knots again.. I seem to have this problem every time I try to sand even with a fine grit. Is it better to leave it alone unless there is a very noticeable splotch?
> 
> - SuzyQ222
> 
> ...


Thanks so much! That is a relief because I don't think I can handle doing this over again! I am exhausted between trying to get the primer on, sanding and cleaning up the mess on my floor! LOL


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## SuzyQ222 (Feb 17, 2020)

> If you re worried about the shape of the knot showing through the paint, you can fill the knot with epoxy or medium/thick CA glue, level sand, and then prime & paint.
> 
> If you re worried about the dark knot changing the color, like bilyo said, the knot s been sealed by the primer so it shouldn t bleed sap. The primer s job is to have a surface the paint can bond to. The solids in the paint should cover the color difference in the knot, though it usually takes a couple coats if you re painting a light colored paint.
> 
> - shampeon


Thanks. so much. I am painting with white, so that's why I was worried, but as long as the wood has been sealed then I am OK with it. Hopefully the painting part will go more smoothly!


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