# Table saw blade guards



## skywalker01 (May 19, 2009)

I have a question that has been bugging me for quite a while. Years even. I absolutely never use the blade guard on my table saw. I find it to be cumbersome and troublesome because I can never see what and where I am cutting. I can't easily measure for making cuts. It takes me longer to do things especially like setting up a dado blade. The wood sometimes would get stuck right before the splitter in the back of the blade and I have an even more dangerous situation because the wood sits on the blade while running as I reach down and turn the saw off to remove the wood… or… I will rock the wood back and forth to get it to go around the splitter ( it's not a cheap saw but the splitter does not stay where it needs to). That sounds really dangerous and IT IS! I know they made it for a reason but it sucks to use it and I am actually more careful with it off than with it on. I own a craftsman portable professional and the blade guard is not user friendly at all. It takes tools and time to take on and off…. and it pretty much SUCKS at any angle other than 90 degrees because you can't put the rip fence close enough for the cut as it gets in the way. So here's my BIG QUESTION:

How many lumberjocks actually use the blade guard?

I know a lot of videos and internet celebrities say to use it at all time "except for this video for demonstration purposes". But lets get to the truth and see if I'm all alone here. I may be… if so, please use your blade guard whenever you can. ThankS!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I never installed mine 20 years ago when I bought my saw for all the reasons you listed.


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## hootr (Mar 28, 2009)

I don't even remember how to put mine on


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

i don't even know where mine ( 3 different saws ) are ,
although i saved them ,
in case i ever sell one .
when i buy a new saw ,
whether chop or table saw ,
it's the first thing to go !


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

I was in the same position when I owned my Craftsman saw. I took the blade guard off right after I bought it for all the same reasons that you described. It was a serious compromise of the saw's safety features as you say. But with my new saw it takes only a few seconds to remove or replace the blade guard with a riving knife so I use it all the time, unless I am doing a cut that precludes use of the blade guard.


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

I have never used mine


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

mine has been collecting dust for 4 yrs


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## chriswright (Nov 13, 2008)

I don't have them on mine, and I have an over head one for one of my saw's. I'm with you, I think they can be, and I stress "can," be more dangerous in place then without them. My advice, for what it's worth, and what I tell the people who come into the shop to work, is to do what you feel comfortable with. If you're comfortable and feel safe with the guards in place, then use them, if you're not comfortable with them in place then don't use them. However, I feel I should mention that the best blade guard/splitter system I've seen on a table saw is the one that's on the new Delta Unisaw. If I owned one of those saws, I'd really consider at least keeping the splitter in place.


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## BeachedBones (Jan 31, 2009)

Ditto for all the reasons mentioned above. I've tried (usually once) with each blade guard on each new saw, then promptly remove them. Besides getting in the way, visibility and jamming etc, the concern I have is that the saw blade guards do nothing to prevent the most common type of accident. Say you are neglecting to use push sticks, and you slip or the piece is fired out. What happens? Your hands might slide on the top towards the blade. blade guards will just lift out of the way and let your hand slide right into the blade. Worse yet they might actually hold you down towards the saw if you try to pull up. The only safety options that I've seen that look useful are splitters and that SawStop.

I keep blades adjusted as low as possible, I usually adjust the blade to have 3 teeth showing above the material thickness. Also I keep my hands at least 10 inches from the blade, always have push sticks handy, and never take my focus off the cutting path until the blade is fully stopped. When not in use I drop the blade below the table height.


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## mikedddd (Jul 22, 2009)

Tried it at least once on each saw, and then stored it in a safe place. My current saw has a riving knife that I do like using and leave on all the time.


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

I'm saving mine for the wake.
Bob


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## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

I think they all suck for all the reasons you listed. Used one 32 years ago and had a kickback and cut 2 fingers off and had them reattached.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

It's a personal choice with pros and cons, like wearing a motorcycle helmet.

As long as you have some sort of splitter or riving knife setup, I don't think it is that big a deal. But if some of you guys are ditching the stock blade guard with the built in splitter, and operating the saw with no protection against a board closing up against the blade, I personally think you are playing with fire.


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## Cato (May 1, 2009)

Since my TS is mostly dedicated for ripping, I leave mine on all the time. I feel more comfortable with having the anti-kickback pawls and splitter engaged during a cut.

My old craftsman blade guard was a huge pain, compared to this new saw that has a fairly easy on/off thumbscrew and the lead edge beveled splitter travels up and down with the blade and holds good alignment with it. I can also see my cut easily, which promotes leaving it on.

I don't build furniture at this point so I use my router for dado, and rabbets. Crosscutting I have a RAS. I like having machines pretty much dedicated to a task, so that it saves on set-up time.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

To paraphrase Blazing Saddles: Blade guards? We don't need no stinkin blade guards!


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## rob2 (Nov 27, 2007)

My saw has a riving knife which I use almost all the time. the guard - - - no it gets in the way


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

In doing a major clean-out the other day I just found mine after several years of it not being on my Delta contractors saw. I have a good 12" miter saw so I mostly do ripping.

I'm considering putting it back on. I sort of see it like people who don't wear helmets on motorcycles. It's just a matter of time.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

I have an overhead guard built into an overhead extractor tube but I very seldom use it either .Alistair


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## niki (Mar 26, 2007)

Go to this thread….
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=76081&page=2

on post #17 there are two links to Photobucket…click on them to see the "result"...

To know the "reason" for the "result" please read post #19…

BTW, it's his brand new table saw operated the first time and as I know, it has a Riving knife and a very good blade guard…but he decided to remove them maybe, as a result of a thread like this one….

Well, as Kelly Mehler said, "95% of the American woodworkers do not use the blade guard"...

Wow, 60,000 accidents a year…Steve nows what he is doing…

It's not the first time (nor the last I believe) that we can see on the Internet (on deferent forums) the "Who is using the guard" thread and I really don't know what is the purpose of threads like this…If one wants to use the guard - just use it, and if not, I think that it's not so appropriate to announce it so the young generation will "learn" the "correct way of using a table saw"...

I think that the more experienced woodworkers have to give a good example to the beginners…

Just because one is not using the blade guard for the "last 30 years" and have all his fingers, doesn't mean that everybody will do the same because we are not the same "Operating System"...just like not everybody can be an F-16 pilot or Astronaut…

And if you'll take into consideration that, when getting older, the reactions and instincts are a little bit different…

Have a safe work
niki


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

Blade guards are a pain and I don't use one but having ridden a motorcycle for over 20 years I do wear a helmet realizing in doing so that all it will accomplish in a real accident is to keep all the parts of my head in one place where they can find them (-;

Play safely but have fun.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

I haven't used the one that came with the saw for at least 20 years. I use push sticks and keep my paws back and stand to the side out of the line of fire. I would put it on if I were going to do a lot of ripping.


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## donbee (Feb 7, 2009)

I gues I'm odd-man-out.

I have a Penn State Industries overhead guard with dust collection and use it as often as I can.
Of course, there are situations in which it impossible to use, but even on sled cuts i bring it as low as I can. 
It protects my vision and picks up at least some of the sawdust.
I've lived 76 years and wish to keep on doing so.
Having something happen to my face because I didn't use the guard would be nasty.

Besides, what's my hurry?

Its not like I have to be somewhere else soon.

I have the luxury of taking my time, and I do.

d


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## skywalker01 (May 19, 2009)

Thanks for all the great posts guys.

I did not start this thread to say that one should or should not use it. I just was curious. As for teaching the younger generation of woodworkers, I would rather not lie to them. I don't use it. I am very very careful with my wood working. I keep fingers WELL away from the blade, stand to the side when cutting, don't push toward the blade with my hands, set the blade just above the piece and use push sticks all the time. To anyone wanting to work or working in a shop now a days- Safety is your number one concern! Never do something that feels even remotely dangerous. Find a way to make a jig or use something other than your hands to get near the blade. In my opinion we have really come a long way in the last 50 years. I am still a youngster really but I've seen a lot of the machines and things that were used in the industrial revolution. Talk about dangerous! Safety is my #1 concern but I am still a free man and I choose to do it this way. Interestingly, bringing this up and talking about it will make me 10 times more careful then next time I touch a saw.

I took my blade guard and cut off the big clear plastic cover that goes over the blade section. I now use the splitter and the anti kick back when I think about it. It still does not stay on all the time because It is constantly in the way. If I had the money I would buy a saw that is easier to change out so that I would use it like some of you are saying.

Gotta add something here:
last year I was using a somewhat dull chisel to do some work on a dado. It slipped out of the piece and sliced across my thumb cutting the tendon and lots of nerves. It was really bad and still to this day I can't feel parts of my thumb. I am lucky, I guess ,to still have a thumb. If this happened long ago I might still have lost it to infection. Point is I had my hand in front of the work as I was pushing and that is why I caught my thumb. Should I never use chisels? I can't put a guard on those. I did change the way that I use chisels though. If I had been taught the correct way to chisel from the get go this may not have happened. Never put any part of you body in front of where your pushing.
You could still very easily slide your hand under a table saw guard or fall under it having a false sense of security from the guard. Lots of people start using table saws with out instruction. Your don't have to have a license to buy them in fact you don't even have to be a certain age. Education and knowledge is the most important safety feature.


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

I haven't used the stock guard since day one. Same reasons mentioned. I built an overarm guard (posted in my projects a while back) and used it where possible.

I read an article about Euro saws vs. American counterparts and was shocked. The Euro versions have higher standards required to sell them. While I forget the exact specs, the removal or installing of the guard had to be able to be done in a matter of 10-15 seconds. Same for splitters. I assume they believe any longer and it will not be used. The throat plates must have nearly zero clearance as well. The stop switch has to be of the knee bump style. I found it funny that the same manufacturers develop both the safer one's and the one's we buy here. Saving a buck I suppose.


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## Kindlingmaker (Sep 29, 2008)

I use a Brett Gaurd whenever I can and find it a great tool and guard. The one that came with my General TS is junk and hangs on the wall collecting dust. I believe in guards and use them when ever possible. I made my own splitter that is 5" tall to replace the little one that comes with the Brett and it has pevented counts blunders by me of wood being flung back into me.


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

I dont use mine either. The splitter is very important, but I find the blade guard is more trouble than its worth.


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## Roger Clark aka Rex (Dec 30, 2008)

I agree with USCJeff that in the EC safety laws are much more stringent, and yes the same manufacturers of tools that we get here (US versions) can be less safe or darn right dangerous. I understand why so many people remove safety devices, it is not that they are stupid or evil, it is simply because the safety devices are awkward or prevent required use of the tool. In short, some of the safety devices put on US marketed tools are bloody awful and poorly designed. If safety devices were of a good design that would not impare the tool user then you can expect users to leave them on. So why don't WE have safety standards like the EU?
Theory: Losing body parts or digits in the US is good for the health care industry, while the Europeans want less preventable accidents.
BTW I have not removed my safety device off my table saw, and although many do as a preference I agree with *niki* that we don't need to broadcast that to future woodworkers, we need to have safety rules/devices changed.
And for you master Skywalker01, taking off the guard could mean that The Force will be With You - unexpectedly


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## Milo (Apr 24, 2009)

I plan on making a Sharkguard or something similar for my saw, pain to use or not, soon. I've had too many close calls, and am grateful I still have to use of my thumb and middle finger. It's may very well hang from the ceiling on a flexible arm, is what I am thinking.

I say keep it, pain or not. Aren't your fingers worth a little extra trouble?


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

The problem with Craftsman saws is having to have it out of the way to set the fence at both ends.


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## donbee (Feb 7, 2009)

I should complete my thought.

The overhead guard I have is attached to the ceiling, so the guard floats above the table. If I need it to get out of the way I can rotate it up on the arm or I can remove it from the arm completely.

The guard that came with my saw was garbage. When I complained about it they sent an identical replacement which was simply another piece of garbage. I think there is a concensus here, that US blade guards that come with saws are terrible.

When, I wonder, will the manufacturers get the message?

d


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

What kind of guard do they have in Europe?


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## woodman71 (Apr 19, 2009)

the guard for my saw found the trash bin before the saw made it out of the box


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## hawke777 (Mar 1, 2010)

"What kind of guard do they have in Europe?"

If it's anything like the systems coming to the US with riving knives, it's a split guard. Much nicer. You'll see more and more of them now that the new UL standards went into effect this year.


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## thenickedfinger (Feb 17, 2010)

I have a Ridgid Contractors saw and I don't think the the Guard is anything special, but I use it all the time unless I am making a "non-through" cut (like a dado) or the piece is smaller that the guard will allow.

I do have to tweak the guard every now again to get the splitter to line up, but my guard does have 2 anti kickback pawls on it.

I don't find it "more unsafe" to use than without and having caught my thumb on the blade (5 stiches) once, I think that is enough times!


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## greatview (Oct 3, 2009)

What's a blade guard?


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## Uncle_Salty (Dec 26, 2009)

Didn't use a blade guard, splitter, or a splitter pawl until about two years ago. You see… I learned the hard way. Got really lucky that the saw blade was only about 1/8" above the material, and that woodworking GODS turned my finger in the correct direction. The blade passed vertically through the end of the ring finger of my right hand as the kickback flung both the 14×14 inch piece of 1/4" ply and my right hand over the saw blade. Luckily, only the pad of my finger was damaged, as the blade didn't hit the bone.

After I went to Minor Med and took my five stitches, and was exhibit A for all the med staff on hand that afternoon, I decided that I'd better put the guards and the splitter and the kickback pawls all back on. It is only a minor hindrance to both take them off as needed… and put them back on when they are no longer… not needed.

My students all get it. They, of course, were born and brought up in a "seat belt/air bag" era. They get the reason for safety, and, for the most part, dont' question it.

It is old guys, like me, that had to have the revelation.


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## AnnaCatherine (Aug 15, 2007)

I didn't use mine…well I can't use mine until my left middle finger heals. My saw chomped down on it like a barracuda on a shiny scuba tank valve. CHOMP! I have something like a gunsite in the side of the finger. I have put mine back on. I'll deal with it until I get another saw wioth a riving knife feature.

Anna-Catherine


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## BlairH (Jan 19, 2009)

One more for, no blade guard. I feel safer without it. I do need a splitter though.
Great topic! I've always wondered the same thing.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

The OEM blade guard on my saw wasn't there when I bought mine (used). My saw had a Shark Guard on it when I bought it, and to be honest, rarely ever comes off.

I can only hope and pray that you guys that don't use guards, never have an accident, and if you do, the saw companies attorneys see these posts where you admit refusing to use the safety features of the saw…

I don't know if they taught everybody this in high school wood shop, but I remember seeing the videos of kickback, and the aftermath of hand meets saw blade. High School was a long time ago now, and I can still recall the demos like I had just sat down to watch them…


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## paperbender1965 (Aug 1, 2008)

After taking a couple of classes, I felt bad about not having the guard in place. Couldn't find it so I ordered a replacement. They both now reside in storage under the saw. I use it almost exclusively for crosscutting with a sled. I built the sleds with guards on them, does that count?


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## NewPickeringWdWrkr (Feb 24, 2010)

In the beginning (a mere 2 months ago), I was using it and thought it a good idea. But I found that I had to get my face down to the level of the table to make double sure I was hitting the line. Feeling the breeze of the blade was a wakeup call and I haven't used it since. I do have a riving knife and anti kick back pawls though that I use as much as possible.


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## russv (Sep 21, 2009)

Kelly Mehler has a video out called "Managing your tablesaw". It is worth it to beg, borrow, or steal (or even buy) this video. His common sense approach to tablesaw safety and usage is very good. He mentions 2 things in this video in regard to what we are talking about here. He mentions (strongly) the advantages of a riving knife. He made it the clear to me why (and when) you should be using one.

The other thing was blade guards. He recommended using a blade guard always. He also admitted the factory guards are limited. In the video he recommended and used a blade guard called a "Brett Guard". I had never heard of it before. He used it in his video with every cut he made except when using the cross sled. He made using it seem seamless. I really looked at this guard with a keen eye to see how it worked. I have decided it is a very good design, non-obtrusive, and easy to use. More over, if you want to be cheap, you could make your own based on the design. I also saw that Shop Notes magazine made their version of it in issue # 103.

For what it's worth,
russv


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## BreakingBoardom (Dec 18, 2009)

I bought my saw used and it didn't have the gurad on it. The owner probably took it off and lost it. I just take things slow and stay aware of my hands and my surroundings. Does seem easier with it off though.


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## russv (Sep 21, 2009)

algale,
buy a ryobi and get a lawyer. you can make million dollars. Then you can afford to buy a stopsaw. lol

CharieL,
it's a good video. he nevers mentions brand names, i had to figure that out from the credits. it is an educational video and not an ifomercial. i guess Mr. Mehler won't be hiring me a spokeperson.

russv


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## skywalker01 (May 19, 2009)

Table saw = shop staple
saw stop = fabulous table saw
Sawstop type government legislation = even more dangerous, home made table saw
home made table saw = less woodworkers
less woodworkers = crappy place to live


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## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

I use an overhead guard quite often. It also has a dust collection tube on it. They may be a bit of a pain, but how inconvenient would it be to not have a finger or hand?


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## dusty2 (Jan 4, 2009)

I sure wish we could convert all of these reports into something statistical. What percentage of us use their safety devises? and What percentage of us that do not have had incidents evolve from that fact?


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## davidpettinger (Aug 21, 2009)

No Guard, no splitter, in 35 years push sticks, pads and blocks have all met their fates at the blade. I actually fear my CMS more than my table saw, my RAS too. But I also respect them.


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## bclarknc (Mar 9, 2012)

Found on a thread in another forum. Check the video out at the bottom of the page. Will make you rethink that blade guard "stress."

http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/kickback2012.html


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

When I first set up my Craftsman contractor saw a decade ago, I used the splitter/guard once or twice and then hung it on a hook.

I moved into my new shop on the other side of the basement a month ago and spent several hours getting the TS set up as precisely as I could.

One of the most difficult things was getting that darn splitter to stay in the right spot. But once I finally did, it's been working fine since.

A shark guard or some other over the top blade guard/DC combo is on my short list.

Unfortunately, my short list is a couple pages long :^)


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## cjwillie (Sep 6, 2011)

My tablesaw has no guards of any kind ('60s Craftsman). I have yet to see a guard that works properly after it's been in use for a while. Most are more of a danger than not using one. I want to see the blade and know where it is without looking through a scratched or dust covered piece of plastic. I learned wodworking from my dad when there were no guards. I was taught to pay attention to what I was doing and that these tools will hurt you if you don't. I still have all my fingers but have had some close calls. It just reminds me to be careful. Even with the best guards, accidents happen. It's up to us to show these tools the respect that they deserve. If you lose that respect, they have a nasty way of reminding you!!! Use caution with any power tool. It's usually not the tool's fault if we get hurt, just our own lack of attention!


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

I use a splitter, but no blade guard.
IMHO a blade guard causes more problems than it solves.

A splitter is a must though IMHO.

I can't even tell you where the guard for my TS is…


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

My blade guard is attached to the riving knife with a ratchet bolt, its only a case of flipping it up for measuring tooth to fence and flipping it back down to cut. It does get used for most cuts as there's a dust extraction port on it too.
It simply lifts off for non-through .


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## stevepeterson (Dec 17, 2009)

I have a Shark Guard with a 4" DC port. I use it if I am cutting plywood or anything with bad dust, but most of the time it hangs on a hook near the ceiling. I do use the splitters that came with the Shark Guard almost all of the time.


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## ptweedy (Feb 9, 2009)

I have been using my sears 40 year old contractor style ts since it was new. I have had a few kickbacks and been hit by one in the gut that really was painful and brusing. I kept the guard for about ten years unused and then pitched it for the mentioned reasons. I have built a series of guards none of witch worked well enough to keep using. I have for the last 5 years been using blade splitters that attach to a zero clearence plate these have worked well if time was taken to make sure that the splitter is the correct thickness and is aligned properly. I would like to get a riving knife but have been unable to find one that fits my saw. My opinion on push sticks is that they are vital but most people us the wrong kind. The stick like pushers that have a notch in the end are a the completly wrong approach as they offer no control if the work begins to lift witch is going to happen as the leading edge of the work passes the far edge of the blade and then twists into the blade. The next sound you will hear is sirens. I have seen several people using hammer handles on job sites and even cut the power cord off of one saw that I was the boss on. I use car shaped pushers that are at least 6" higher then the rip fence and are 12 to 18 inchs long. I also try to never use to words push stick but instead use the word pusher or work pusher. It keeps the idea of safety in my mind while working.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

As a newbie and owner of a "new to me" C'man '70's TS, the first thing I purchased for my saw was a replacement blade guard assembly (splitter, AK pawls, guard)! I would rather have the opportunity to be hindered by the guard than to never have it!!!


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

double post! See ACCIDENTS do happen!!!


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## Marlow (Feb 1, 2011)

I have the Bies. overhead guard. I try to use it when I can, but it does seem like I have it in the up position or completely off the saw more than I have it in place: I am coming to the conclusion that guards have limited usefulness due to their inherent propensity to obscure the blade (I really would like a Sawstop).


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## RandyM68 (Jan 20, 2012)

I've worked in several different factories and machine shops over the last 25 years. Most safety equipment is not for the operators benefit, but to keep some idiot from walking by and hurting themself. With all the guards in place, it's often impossible to actually get the job done. I have been bitten by machines more than once, but it was because I had my head up my ass. We should all know not to touch the blade/bit/wheel, especially when it's spinning. You can be right next to it forever, and barring catastrophic machine failure, it will *never* reach out and hurt you, you have to do that to yourself. I have plenty of scars to remind me that you can wound yourself with hand tools, too. I have had safety doors fall on me while I was trying to work on something. The last time I tried to get the riving knife lined up on my Crapsman guard, I caught my finger under the kick-back pall. Three holes in my finger, so much for safety. At least I didn't yank my finger out. Since I don't have to deal with OSHA, or protect a bunch of random idiots in my home shop, I threw that damn guard back under the bench, where it belongs.


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## cjwillie (Sep 6, 2011)

The other problem with all these guards and safety devices is that they give the user the false sense that they are safe from injury as long as the guards are in place. Carelessness and stupidity are capable of making any safety device worthless. When using ANY power tool you cannot forget that they can and do hurt people everyday. I was taught at an early age to respect what these tools are capable of and how to use them safely, without guards. I have had some minor injuries but not because of the lack of a guard. It was because I got careless and didn't pay attention to what I was doing.


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## KevinH (Dec 23, 2007)

Charles Neil's "Table Saw Safety" video seems to provide a lot of good, practical information about using a table saw safely. I particularly like to shop-built guard he shows. The video is on YouTube at 



.

I stopped using the guard that came with my Delta contractors saw when I could no longer see through it due to marks from the blade. It does have a splitter and anti-kickback pawls that are fine, but to use them, I will remove the formerly clear plastic guard.


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## dnick (Nov 17, 2011)

I think it depends on the saw. I had a Craftsman hybrid for 7 years , the guard was easy to install & I used it maybe 20% of the time. Now I have the 22116 Craftsman & you have to install the guard & pawls on the riving knife, it's really difficult & I may never use them.


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## Pimzedd (Jan 22, 2007)

Brett Clark, thanks for the link to the video. It should be required watching for anyone operating a table saw. I still work with teachers concerning the teaching of safety in a shop.

I taught high school students to operate table saws for 27 years. Wish I had that video. I kept trying to figure out how to demonstrate a kickback safety. Never could be sure I or a student would not get hit or hurt.

I only had one student that I trained have a kickback that I knew. I heard her letting the material (1/8 in ABS plastic sheet) rubbing the side of the blade. I moved over and was putting my hand on top of the plastics to stop her with the intention of having her hold it still while turning off the saw. About the time my hand got to the plastic, it kicked back. Hit my hand and her neck. No real damage but scared us both.

Had a student crack two ribs on a kickback my first year. The student used the saw without permission on any instruction. He tried to cut a small board in half with no guard and freehanded!


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## WinterSun (Apr 3, 2011)

Pimzedd: the way to do it live and safely would be to use a chunk of foam insulation maybe a foot square. Rip a small strip off the edge, and stop as soon as the cut completes. Don't push the piece past the blade; rather, stand to the right and use a push stick to gently push forward right next to the fence. This causes the piece to turn into the blade, starting a kickback. That's how I've seen it demonstrated. the demonstrator's hand never came close to the blade, and the foam board is much less dangerous as a projectile.


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## jumbojack (Mar 20, 2011)

About twice year, I forget why I dont use mine. I'll install it and the memory comes crashing back. All of the above reasons.


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## katilicous (Oct 26, 2011)

Wow, I was just giving my bf the safety first talk we got in high school woodworking and now I get it. Kinda like the study that shows the bigger the traffic lane on the freeway the less people pay attention which explains why there arent too many accidents in the left lane of the 405 just north of LA. If the safety is there then you rely on it a bit and put your own guard down.


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## Martyroc (Feb 1, 2012)

Removed it after the second day of use, and haven't looked back in 25+ years, don't even know where it is, knowing myself I tossed it after a few years. All the reasons everyone sights above. My question is of all the woodworkers on LJ's who has been injured because of not having it?


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## MoPower (Feb 6, 2009)

For years I never even installed one on my saws for the same reasons everyone else has mentioned. However, since getting my new Unisaw I use it all the time. Delta solved the problems with all the reasons most of us used to not use it. It is easily removed (about two seconds to pop it on and off) and it will flip back out of the way while making measurements. And it is not a light weight piece of junk that is to flimsy to do anything.


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## AJswoodshop (Mar 2, 2012)

I just use the guard that comes with my saw. Sometimes I dont even use it. I plan on getting the brett guard soon.


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## oldretiredjim (Nov 14, 2011)

I really made an effort to make the guard work. But it didn't. I invested in a GRR ripper and I take the time to set it up for almost all my cuts. It slows thing down but really does help control the wood until it is safely past the blade. A number of people here use the GRR Ripper. When I get the money I am getting another one for ripping longer stock.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

If they made a SharkGuard for my saw, I'd buy one…then probably take it off


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

I never use a blade guard, but I always use a riving knife.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I took mine off in 1985 when I bought the saw and haven't seen it since. It is a Craftsman contractor saw, In fact when I recently up graded the fence I sawed off the attachment rod that sticks out the back, I do wish it had a riving knife and I have made some splitters for it. But even they get in the way for dadoes. They just didn't make reasonable blade guards in those days and it is safer w/o them.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Hated the guard that came with my saw … it was a POS.

Last summer, I installed a Shark Guard with 2 1/2" dust port. I use it for everything but non-severing cuts. I only have one regret about the Shark Guard … I wish I would have done it sooner!

-Gerry


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## cjwillie (Sep 6, 2011)

I have never used a saw with a riving knife and have never seen one. What is their purpose and what are the problems and benefits of one?


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## pauljp (Jan 10, 2011)

Ok, I will come out of the closet…
My name is Paul, I am a newbie woodworker and I don't use a guard.
There, I said it.
I was always embarrassed to do a video or pictures that showed my TS for fear of being chastised for not having a guard in place.
But now I see quite a lot of people are doing the same thing as me for the same reasons.
And now, I don't feel so alone.
I must state that I think I am very careful using the TS.
My eyes never leave the blade, I can hit the stop switch with my leg, I twist my little finger way on the other side of the fence so my hand can not go any closer to the blade, I stand out of the way and use push sticks and foam pads every time.
If I can make a custom one that works for me, I definitely will.
Thanks for this post, I feel better.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

cjwillie -A riving knife is something like a splitter only it doesn't need to be removed with the blade guard. Most riving knives raise and lower with the blade, so the top of the riving knife is at the same height as the top of the blade. Because the riving knife rides up/down with the blade, the distance between the teeth and the riving knife is minimal, reducing the chances of the piece binding.

As of 2009, Underwriters Laboratories requires that all new table saw designs sold in the U.S. include a riving knife.

-Gerry


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## Vincent (Mar 10, 2009)

I never installed the blade guard and the splitter/anti-kickback pawls on my ts. I do use the Micro-Jig splitter in conjunction with a set of Grrr-Ripper push blocks. I have found that system works for me and I appreciate the fact the the Grrr-riper blocks maintain control of the cut AND the waste so the risk of having the waste kickback at me is reduced. I have been collecting parts for a future over-arm dust hood, but the main focus is dust control as opposed to safety.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I've never used a stock blade guard, though I've always tried to have a splitter in place. About 5 years ago I started using an overarm guard more off dust collection than anything, and even they have their set of problems in use.


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

With my primary table saw being made in 1964 I don't even see a place were the guard could have been fitted. I have a homemade portable tables saw, and nope, no guard there ether. I am intrigued by this particular guard/ dust collector. The maker refers to it as a "safety curtain". Has I understand it, it drops down and covers the saw blade while the saw is in use. No access to the blade while in use, (check that out Sawstop). Of coarse most of us could never afford such a saw, but it's nice to see what's out there.

http://www.altendorf.de/en/products/altendorf-2/altendorf-2.html


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## Visions (Sep 12, 2011)

I have heard all the BS about "guards make it harder", "guards are unsafe", yeah, yeah, yeah. Keep telling yourselves that. When you can only count to 6 or 7, that guard will look a lot easier to use!

I will agree 100%, some factory guards suck, and they suck bad. BUT, it's quite easy to make or buy a really, really nice guard. The PSI overarm guard is a sweet, sweet guard, and it adds some very effective dust collection, another bonus. 
As well, you can make your own guard like the PSI version yourself for very little money. All you need it some PVC, some clear acrylic, some steel or aluminum tubing, or even wood, and you can make one in a few hours.

As well, something as simple as the unit Charles Neil shows in his tablesaw safety video will do the job sufficiently.

Just remember, 1 tablesaw injury every 9 minutes in the US. One injury for every 20 saws. 60,000 total. Taking chances will make you a statistic.

If you play stupid games, you win stupid prizes.

Me, I've seen a number of injuries, and I know how bad many tools will mess you up.
I've seen the result of a tablesaw injury first hand, my grandfathers best friend ran his finger into the blade on my grandfather's UniSaw. I've seen what routers will do to you hand and fingers. My best friend got his finger chewed up by a 3/4" 2-flute straight bit. He also nicked his thumb with the tablesaw, and got 14 stitches for his efforts. My father's brother got his hand sucked into a shaper, and had somewhere around 80-100 stitches to put his hand back together. He also got into his hand with a circ saw, and got just over 40 stitches and a pin in his thumb from that. 
Heck, I can't feel my left index finger from a lowly chisel! I will never feel it again, and let me tell you, it SUCKS! I couldn't imagine how much worse it would be if it was a TS injury.

I won't ever tell you to use a guard, that is completely up to you. Just know there are ways to be safe that don't get in your way and are easy to deal with.
And think about how much harder working will be if you end up short a few fingers, should anything ever happen.
I know that just losing feeling in one finger has taken a lot of getting used to and I've had to change the way I do a lot of things. And that's just one numb finger, I couldn't imagine if it was 2 or 3, or if they were just stumps…..


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## BroncoBrian (Jan 14, 2013)

blade guards and motorcycle helmets are not the best comparison. you can be hit no matter how careful you are riding a bike. you should have a lot more control of your environment in a workshop (unless it is in an intersection) so use your judgement. I have never used one and felt that it was too difficult to see the cut and measure. Aren't kickbacks more likely if something is out of line? I'd rather see that.

sold my bike a few years ago when two idiots in M3's raced around me and I realized there was no amount of care that could keep me safe. Still have my legs….


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