# Preventing Rust on Cast Iron



## MNgary (Oct 13, 2011)

Depending on the specific tool, for the past 12 to 30 plus years I have spread a coating of kerosene on my cast iron tool tables (table saw, jointer, bandsaw, shaper, lathe, drill press) every couple weeks to prevent rust. It has been very effective.
But now I am retired and plan to be gone for more than 2 weeks at a time. Tell me about using wax and will it protect the CI for up to 6 weeks if I am not using the tool.


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## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

I did the paste wax thing on my cast iron tools for several years. It seemed like every spring I had to clean off a light coating of rust and reapply paste wax.

I now use Boesshield T9. As I understand it, the product has solvents to penetrate the pores in cast-iron and wax dissolved in the solvent to seal against moisture and prevent any further rust. I don't know for sure.

What I do know is that I applied the product 3-4 years ago and I haven't had a bit of rust since. Well, aside from one unfortunate incident with a sweating beer can that a buddy left on the table saw. It won't protect against a direct water spill.


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

The cast iron will be fine with a coat of wax for that short time.

I use wax over Ballistol and never have any issues.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Depends on your environment and temp swings. Not a big fan of wax for rust prevention. As you've already found: rust formation under the wax probably because the wax apparently does not seal out the oxygen.

I wouldn't worry about it too much.
Couple coats of Boeshield any small amount of rust when you get back is easily removed.


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## WoodNSawdust (Mar 7, 2015)

Every spring I wash down the Cast Iron with lacquer thinner and use a paper towel to apply Johnson's paste wax. After about 5 minutes I buff the wax off.

The only tool that ever develops any rust is the Cast Iron table on the Grizzly bandsaw. I don't know what is different about it. The bandsaw sits about 7 feet from my table saw and the table saw never has rust..

Nothing I have seen protects against direct water contact (from a bottle, roof leak, etc.).

I am weary about spray on products due to concerns about what is in them and if it would rub off onto the wood.


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## pmayer (Jan 3, 2010)

If the humidity conditions are extreme, wax won't prevent it. I'd get a good cover for the machine and that will do it for you. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/HTC-TS-9056-Machine-36-Inch-56-Inch/dp/B000022627.

I had a similar problem in a previous shop, and I put one of those covers on my table saw and never had a problem again. One time the cover slipped off of one corner of the saw, and that corner was covered in rust within a few weeks while the rest of the saw remained perfect.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Wax it and keep it covered with a breathable cover when not in use. Apply wax after use and before covering - no need to buff off if you don't want to (and it will help a bit more if you don't).

Boeshield is expensive - and is basically just paraffin wax dissolved in mineral spirits with a little bit of mineral oil thrown in for good measure. You can make your own pretty cheap.

Johnson paste wax is paraffin, microcrystalline and carnauba wax dissolved in naptha.

The key ingredient is wax 

Most of my tools live in the shop (or in the house), but my lathe lives out on a screened patio, enduring the Florida humidity and fairly large temp swings. Sometimes it gets so bad, there is a film of water over everything, particularly when a summer storm rolls in - where the temp drops pretty quickly and humidity jumps to 100%. Waxed and covered, the lathe handles it just fine.

Cheers,
Brad


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

You could try Fluid Film, if there's a Tractor Supply near you they stock it. You'd have to wipe it off before you use your tool, though. Also Cosmoline or just plain old axle grease smeared on there.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I use Johnson's, and it works just fine. I previously used sprays but they were expensive and wax is working just as well.

An alternative I plan on trying soon is applying a light wipe on coat of polyurethane. John Heisz has done it with great success. Basically you wipe it on, wipe it off.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Johnsons here. I leave a small rag in the can and wipe my tools down only after heavy use. Have had dew coating my tools and no rust.

It isn't a once a year thing on parts that see wear. Boeshield might work great but I use paste wax on my hand tools as well and I'm not using 2 different products when I've had zero problems.


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## martyoc (Nov 21, 2015)

I've used wax with very good results on my table saw, jointer and band saw. I use what ever type is handy. Clean the surface well prior to using it. It lasts for several months or more.


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## Ger21 (Oct 29, 2009)

Glide Coat. After two applications, it can prevent rust for years.

http://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD


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## MNgary (Oct 13, 2011)

Many, many thanks for the replies. I am now thinking wax in lieu of kerosene. And maybe I can get some machine covers for birthday presents.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

Try Alox, here is a review. Available on Amazon or possibly your local gun/reloading shop. Cheap and far superior to wax. Perfect for extended non use periods.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I had bad luck with covers, tried a cotton blanket and it caused terrible rusting.


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## newwoodbutcher (Aug 6, 2010)

Some I read that wax actually captures moisture on the CI. After a WW Mag article (somewhere) recommended CRC 3-36 Multi purpose lubricant & corrosion inhibitor, I started using it. It's only been a few months but I'm very happy with it. Comes in Gallon bottles and a pint spray bottle. I bought both and replenish the spray bottle. I also keep a moistened rag in a plastic container to wipe things down. It was somebody's best buy rating and, I think a good one.


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## rg33 (Dec 1, 2012)

I'm in southern california so humidity isnt really a problem. I keep it simple. Once a year I take some scotchbrite and lightly scrub the surface after I sprayed the cast iron with WD-40 to get it nice and clean. I then wipe it dry with a rag and 30 minutes later come back with johnsons paste and buff it by hand. I do this on all my cast iron tools and has worked fine…


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

WD40 is actually an excellent rust preventative but I never used it on my saw because I was afraid it might contaminate the wood.


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## Jhwill (Oct 13, 2015)

I have used Top Cote with good results. I ran out one day and I tried the wax base chain lube that I use on my dirt bike. The brand that I used was Maxima chain wax aerosol it is less expensive. There seems to be no issues when l finish projects.


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## OldCoach (Jan 3, 2016)

Liquid alox will dry tacky to the touch, at least it does on my lead bullets. I would not use it in pure form on my table saw. Now I mix the Alox with Johnsons paste wax about 50-50 and put just a dab of mineral spirits or paint thinner, whichever I have, in order to keep it in liquid form. Heat it just enough to melt the JPW, no more, stir it and let it cool. Pour it into a container and there you have it. Dries smooth to the touch with no tackiness. Also,pure Alox gets real thick in colder weather. The JPW and mineral spirits keep it fluid. Makes an excellent lube and rust protectant. Check Ebay and Amazon for cheaper quantities than you can get from Lee Reloading.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

Read this.

WD 40 Specialist Rust Inhibitor

I just put all my tools in long term storage and this is what I used after reading this article.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

If you read my review on Alox, I dilute it 10-20:1 with naptha depending on the level of protection desired, and it then does not dry tacky. It can even be buffed if desired. No real need to heat it up and mix with wax, but I guess it doesn't hurt anything, just complicates the process.


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## mchapman87 (Dec 30, 2015)

I have only used paste wax on my table saw, as long as it is not left for a very extended period of time it has never done me wrong. What I do is I clean the surface rust (as long as there is no major pitting) with double-ot steel wool and use a cleaner/degreaser to get all the dust, dirt and grime off the CI. Then I take super fine sand paper loaded onto my palm sander, with some polishing compound I begin to polish the table. The polishing compound adds a light smooth coating on the CI filling minor scuffs and scratches. Then I just put a coat or two of Johnson's paste wax on, buff and my table saw Is slicker than snot on ice. Unless I have things sitting on my table saw that shouldn't be ( cup of coffee, or a drink of some kind) then I will have some rust where the cup was sitting after a while. Other than that I only have to re-polish every six months or so depending on the use.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

I use Minwax finishing paste wax on all my tools for the last few years. It hasn't failed me yet.


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## OldCoach (Jan 3, 2016)

OSU55 went back and read your review-excellent. I got my recipe using the Johnsons wax from a lead bullet forum. I had used straight Alox on my bullets for years and found them to be discolored and tacky to the touch. Years after applying the Alox they would still be tacky, even in our Texas heat. When I came across this new recipe I gave it a try and found out it was a tremendous improvement over pure Alox. Since I was looking more at a lube for bullets, hence the JPW. Tried this concoction on my jointer one day and found it did a great job preventing rust, so now I use it all around the shop as well as lube my bullets so I can play cowboy on weekends. I am sure your recipe will prevent rust on tools as well.


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## GT350 (Dec 22, 2012)

I use Minwax paste wax a couple of times year and I never have rust problems, it might be the climate though. I live in Southern Oregon and we really don't have humidity issues.
Mike


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## Cato (May 1, 2009)

I just got my tools out of storage. I bought a can of WD Specialist from the big box store. Its right next to the WD 40.
Sprays on wet and then dries to a film. Protected my TS and jointer for 3 years with one coat. 
I was amazed. I did put a sheet of linen over each tool, which I do in my shop as well.
My tools looked just like the day I sprayed them when I got them out of storage.


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## bold1 (May 5, 2013)

I have used car wax, most any good brand, for the past 40 years. I've never had any problems with rust, no matter how long my saws have set. My shop is in my basement and tools that I haven't coated have rusted.


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