# Review and Testing of a G0440 Cyclone Dust Collector



## Brohymn62

Nicely Done, look forward to reading more!


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## ssnvet

Thanks for posting an objective technical review with testing and data to back up your conclusions. You certainly appear to have done as well as any of the WW mags, in terms of set up and data collection.

I've read most of BP's web site and while I appreate him compiling a lot of good info., he sure seems to throw the accusations about manufacturers "cooking the data" to make their products look good….. around pretty freely (accept for the mamouth multi-thousand dollar, 5 HP clear view).... and seems to have an axe to grind. Maybe his greatest contribution will be detailing and promoting the use of this set up as a bench mark test set up…. and the woodworking community can get data from different sources that can then be compared on an apples to apples basis.

But shocker of shocker…. you tested a cyclone from an "importer of discount tools from Asia" and it sure looks to me like their published CFM curves give an accurate portrayal of the units capabilities.

Maybe I'm just getting tired of "fear" journalism accross the board.

PS… welcome to LJ's …. please post some details of your CNC


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## PurpLev

thanks for the review, nice to see some options becoming available in the form of smaller cyclones.

I would be interested to hear how it actually performs at DC over time with machinery running and it pulling dust/fine-dust/shavings from them.


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## b2rtch

it looks like the "protection" on the filter prevents a lot of air to come out.
Long time ago I had to make research on air flow trough holes of all kind (this was about cars, trucks and other radiator grills and vents in the engine hood in addition of the optimal fan design)). 
I can tell you that this grill is very restrictive. 
I think that it would be interesting to remove it to see what an improvement in air flow/suction you would get.


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## djg

I tried to be as objective as possible. I am a physicist by trade so I have some knowledge in the area of fluid dynamics. I figured it would be a good opportunity to retune my skils. My wife had quite the chuckle watching me carry out experiments in my "Lab (workshop)". Once the duct work is in place I will re measure the performance curve for the whole system. I have never seen data collected for a DC system under real world conditions. I am also interested in the DC performance over time and will post my experience.

Despite it's look, I don't think that the grill is that restrictive. In fact, the space between the outer edge of the pleat and the grill is about 3/8". If the air was traveling at high speed, as in a fan application, then I think this would be the case. If we assume the air pressure is uniform within the filter, the air will exit uniformly through all the pleats, over an area of 96 sq. ft. As the air exits each pleat, it mixes with air exiting from adjacent pleats which significantly randomizes and therefore slows down the exit velocity of the air through the filter.

As for removing the filter, you will get a massive improvement in airflow. Filters always add static pressure to the system. If you have a performace curve for your actual system with recorded amperages, you can track your filter performance by looking at your amperage draw to a certain extent. When the filter clogs, static pressure increases and airflow decreases. For exactly this reason, I did not want to remove the filter for fear of processing too much air. Moving more air means doing more work. More work means more energy and more energy means more amperage. I believe that Bill Pentz recommends removing the filter for some of the testing. Amperage draw is probably one of them although i would have to check his site again. I see one problem with this collector may be adding some high volume large area Wynn filters. I am pretty sure that this will effectively decrease the static pressure in the DC system. If one ever decides to do so, they should monitor the amperage. You may run into a situation that Bill Pentz describes were a 2 HP motor running a 14" impeller would eventually burn up from over-amperage.

Dave


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## GrandpaLen

Welcome to LumberJocks , a world of advise, opinions, and experiences, all shared without judgement.

Thanks for sharing your stellar review.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


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## Alexandre

Welcome! What filter does it come with?


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## djg

It comes with a non-woven polyester, 96 sq ft, and is able to filter %99.9 of particles in the 0.2 to 2.0 micron range. This is better than the ASHRAE standard (I think) which is 0.5 microns. These filters are manufactured in Europe (according to Grizzly) by one of the worlds most respected filter manufacturers. The filters are BIA certified. I am unsure that the filter area is large enough. BP recommends 1 sq ft per every 2 cfm. This would mean that this dust collector would require a filter as large as 500 sq ft! Seems large. If the fine dust collection efficiency is high, you wouldn't need 500 sq feet.


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## Alexandre

The nice thing about the onieda cyclones, Is that they come with Hepa filters.
I think Hepa is much better then the Merv 13 media.


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## djg

There are many classes for HEPA but the onieda is up there. According to the MERV ratings, this filter would be > 16. Without the filters efficiency curve to compare apples to apples it's hard to say which is better. Grizzly claims 99.9% greater than 0.2 microns rather than 0.3 at 99.97 for the HEPA standard…looks like either filters would function fine for wood dust.


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## djg

I just noticed that the manometer I used was actually the Dwyer 475 Mark III digital manometer…


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## Alexandre

Thats actually good.
Enjoy your Dust collector!
I'm assuming that you are going to put permanent ductwork to your tools. 
Since the G0440 has a 7" inlet, Are you going to have the 7" go on like this:

Example:
DC- = Dust collector
C = 7" ducting
O = 6" ducting
L= 5" ducting
T= 4" ducting

To tablesaw T To another tool For another tool
1….T…...T…......................3. T
T T T
O T 
DC-CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOO 4.It could be for high CFM tools (Ex. CNC machines)
O
2. O O 
L L
 T for 5" inlets..
To another tool 
Each one is different 
EDIT: Sorry about my diagram, I'll draw it up on autocad.

And so on.
So, which style will you be using? Please specify if you are using the 1 or 2 or 3 or 4, or a combination of them, or are you reducing the inlet to 6"?


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## djg

I will be running a 7" main. I was thinking of 6" but if I ever want to upgrade then the 7 would be more than sufficient for airflow. I will only be using one tool at a time. 6" drops to each machine should suffice. This will probably choke the air flow in the 7" main so the air speed may drop below 3800. I plan on using a barometric damper at the end of the 7" main to make up for lost air flow and increase the main air velocity. I believe that bill pentz mentions this on his site. It should work.


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## Alexandre

That should work… 
Sorry, I'm on another computer.
My other one crashed and doesn't seem like its working… wait… Hold on… I don't know.


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## jgreiner

@DJG 
I appreciate the suggestion but it is a 220v dust collector which specifically falls outside of my range of usability. I've read a good deal of Bill Pentz information, besides being very overwhelming it's difficult to judge because there really isn't a good comparison between dust collectors.

I may not get perfect dust collection but I have to do the best I can with the situation I have.

-jeremy


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## djg

@Jeremy,

You will never get perfect dust collection. You will only ever get the best you can. In any case, you'll figure out what's best for your situation. That's what everybody does. My suggestion to you is to use some of the information we have provided to give you some options. Keep in mind that your first plan of attack should be a good dust mask. Second a collector that moves alot of air. Third is some way to collect what got misssed by the collector or the particulate that gets passed through the filters. Bills information is overwhelming but that's basically all the information summed up that's on his website. Hope this helps you.


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## rad

Need some advise! My duct work is 4" PVC throughout. I am upgrading to the Grizzly Cyclone 2 HP as in your review, but worry that 4" might be too small. How about simply getting the 3 HP Cyclone - upgrading the duct work would cost more than the price difference.


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## djg

I am afraid that upgrading to that 3Hp dust collector is not going to help your cause a whole lot. With 4" duct you are really choking the air flow. The flow through 4" duct will be about 400 CFM. Although the air speed will be fine, you are not moving enough volume of air to collect all the fine dust created by your tools. In the static pressure ranges for a home shop ie < 10 inH20 the air you are moving is fairly incompressible. This means that upgrading to a larger cyclone (with a larger impeller) will move some more air through the duct but you will not be able to double it. you really need a good 800-1000 CFM at each machine in order to collect chips and fine dust. This can only be achieved with 6"-7" duct work. The cost is substantial but it is the best thing I ever did. I just finished ripping and cross cutting 3 sheets of MDF and not a sign of dust anywhere! I love it.


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## rad

Thanks for the advise, suppose I'll have to bite the cost bullet…


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## djg

It will be well worth it in the long run. I felt a bit overwhelmed by the spending but I am more than pleased with the results.


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## rad

Bit the bullet and got the 3 HP nearly 400 pound Grizzly cyclone - beast! Although Grizzly said it should be ok I know you are correct - the 4 inch ducts work OK but not good enough. Will upgrade to 6 inch in the near future.


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## rad

Thanks for the advise. I exchanged the 4" ducts with 6" ducts, with 4" laterals to all my machines, including blasting gates. Works like a dream. Check out the picture of my workshop.


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## Woodwrestler

I am thinking about ordering one of these next week. So now that you have had this for a while and used it hopefully for doing some projects how would you still rate the machine?

Thx

Gary


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## rad

I have the 3HP Grizzly cyclone, would recommend it without reservations


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## djg

I am still quite pleased with mine. I recently found a small leak at one of the welds. The opening had a small plume of dust stuck to the colector around the hole. Wiped it off, and sealed it with caulking. The separation is pretty good. I think there is about a cup of material in the bag under filter and the bin is almost full. My shop is amazingly clean (I use my dylos meter to judge cleanliness) and oftentimes, the air in my shop is cleaner than my home! Purchasing this unit was a good move, no doubt.


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## Woodwrestler

Thanks, it's always good to here from real users. Have been doing the predictable over analyzing and fretting thing and although I leaned towards Oneida at first I just keep choking on the outlays. I have owned Grizzly tools in the past and always had good experiences with them.


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## jssussex

DJG, Now you've had this running for a while. I'd like to see an update on your systems performance and what you would do different. I know on my current Grizzley 2HP bag ,I replaced the top bag with a pleated filter and installed Thein baffle in the collector so I am using push through separation. It seems to be working, but I only have 2 weeks on the Thein baffle system . Someone on Craig's list has your cyclone and I am considering upgrading.

I've recently started doing CNC work and now find that I am running the CNC at the same time doing other operation including planing boards so am considering upgrading my DC. All my ductwork is 6" so I know I'm getting the fine dust have enough velocity, but it don't draw heavy things so I have no banging through the impeller. I also have my DC in a closet with High efficiency filters on the door and the wall (about 12 square feet so any dust that gets through has a second barrier. It also reduces the noise level in the shop by at least 3 db.

I also run a ceiling air filter and that make a difference in collecting the dust that doesn't get collected by the DC.


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## djg

Hey Jssussex,

Sorry for the late reply. I have had the collector about a year now. I have no complaints. after a year and empyting the drum about 4 times, I had about 3 cups of material in the pleated filter. I thought that was pretty good. it was such a nice day yesterday that I took the filter off and brought it outside to blow it out with compressed air. took about 10 minutes and made a decent difference to airflow. People always comment about how clean my shop is. I never drag dust in the house anymore. It was worth the money.

DJG


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## onesojourner

Hey djg, We would love to have an update now that you have had this thing for a few years.

Here is a good review focusing on Sound levels. It compliments your review nicely. 
http://www.chrisbillman.com/Tools/G0440.htm


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## djg

@onesojourner THe update is posted above. I don't regret my purchase.


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## HuyHuynh

@djg What kind of 7" round duct did you use? It looks like you used 2' sections seemed together for your main. What gauge is the duct work and where did you buy it from?

Thanks!


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## djg

Its just the standard duct which snaps together. It's 26 gauge and I purchased it at a local home center.

Dust collector is still behaving nicely. I have cleaned the filter once per year. I am still looking at venting to the outside for the warmer months and I have modified the output of the impeller with a custom muffler.


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## HuyHuynh

@DJG, how many drops do you have?


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## djg

I have 7 drops. I only use one at a time and each drop is 6" duct right to the machine. My shop is semi mobile, so my jointer, table saw, down draft, and drill press and lathe and miter saw are stationary. The last drop serves a planer, sander, router, bandsaw. The switch over from one machine to another takes about 1-2 mins which works for me. I have only two minor issues with the system as a whole including the duct. First is that 6" metal blast gates are infact more like 5.5" inside diameter which really constricts the air flow. If you compare the area to a 6" metal duct the 5.5" opening is 15% smaller than my 6" duct which really constricts the air flow. So although the duct is 6" on the inflow and outflow sides of the blast gate, the blast gate is really the limiting factor here. I have considered making my own blast gates but it's more trouble than its worth…for me anyways. The second is that as the system is used, the filter does become clogged, albeit slowly. My long term plans is to vent to the outside when I am sanding. This way any fine particulate which makes it to the filter will be vented to the air outside. The only issue will be in winter. However, my shop has a propane driven radiant tube heater (see picture above) so the radiant heat will be my combatant against the inflow of cold air in the shop. Adding a dust collector to the shop is the best thing I ever did. At the same time I purchased a Dylos particle counter through a group buy on Canadian Woodworking Forum. This meter has been one of the best purchases yet. It constantly gives me feed back on the cleanliness of the shop. Love it!


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## Ken0015

@DJG, Great postings. I am about to build my dream shop. 24×24 separate workshop with an attached 12×24 room where the DC and air compressor will go. I will have 10 foot ceilings and a 8" x 8" recessed floor trough to run 6 or 7" hard duct from the DC in the separate room to the center of the shop for TS, Planer, Joiner, etc. Would like to know if you were ever able to duct your DC exhaust to the outside? If so, did you just add a "Y" on the output of the cyclone with blast gates before it went to the canister filter? Any other tricks or tips you may have used to achieve this setup? I want to do this as I am on 3 acres and no issues with neighbors. I am hoping this will also improve the overall airflow by bypassing the cartridge filter from time to time. I would appreciate any thoughts you may have on this planned set up. Thanks.


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## djg

@Ken0015,

So, I am still pleased with my purchase….however, the canister pleated area is too small. After reading through Bill Pentz's website, I realized that the area should be about 400 sq feet for a system this size. THis being said, the canister is still usable, but after being through several washes, its performance has decreased dramatically. I therefore decided to duct the system outside untill I find a better setup ie wynn filters. Ducting outside more than fixed the problem. In fact the performace is great. I removed the filter all together and ran a 7" duct from the machine to a nearby window. the window is a sash window so I open the window and insert a wooden plate with a vent cap attached. In the summer I leave it in the window. In the winter I put it in as I need it. The shop does cool down pretty quickly in the winter with the machine going. However, it doesn't take long to warm up again.


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## Ken0015

@DJG,

Really appreciate the quick reply. I was glad to hear that the performance indeed did improve with the direct outdoor ducting. I think you have convinced me to do this. I will try to do mine with a set up so I can either go to the filter or to the external ducting. I have not even started the construction yet on the shop nor bought the DC but I think you have indeed helped me to make the decision on the route I will be going. One final question, are you getting very much dust "caking" outside of your window such that you had to provide some type of collector outside to accommodate that situation?


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## Ken0015

@DJG,

I thought of one more question. Since the intake air would now be exhausting from the workshop to the outside, did you have to allow for a "make up" air vent to draw a new source of outside air for the shop or is the shop not so "air-tight" so as to require a separate intake source? Thanks.


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