# Chevalet Clubhouse.



## shipwright

Whereas we now have several chevalets here on Lj's and 
whereas we do refer to a "chevalet club" and 
Whereas we are unlikely to actually have a real meeting,
I am proposing that we use this forum thread as an ongoing "virtual meeting" of the said club.

There are no rules so far and I'm not about to make any but I would suggest that the clubhouse be open to anyone who owns, wants to own or is in any way interested in chevalets and that it be used to discuss, teach, learn and share any and all advice, knowledge or information about the this fine tool.

Any new business?


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## grizzman

i dont have one of these fine tools, but i second the motion to have this forum post as a club, its a part of wood working that became new to me and i know there are many others who have become interested in this form of wood work, bravo to all who have brought this forth for us to learn from…thank you paul, and thank you elaine who has put a really big part of herself into this and has been teaching this..


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## sandhill

Hey Paul maybe we can all do a hang out in Google from our shops or something of that nature. I have been spending more time at Wood Central and less here, nice bunch of guys. I'm relatively sure Martin and his group will not entertain a spin off sit for us. I tried a few years ago to get them to do something of that nature and they were totally against it. Whatever you do I'm in.


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## WPatrick

As the grand instigator and chief researcher for lost marquetry pieces, count me in. I currently have a stable of 7 chevalets. As the woodworkers who speak English have a little trouble with the word, "chevalet" (not the car), I suggest we call them "chevys" and refer to them in their metric size. Thus, I am the owner of a 54 chevy, 55 chevy, 57 chevy ("frankenstein") 58 chevy, 59chevy, 60 chevy, and my personal steed, the 61 chevy.

Just a note, by the end of the year, Marc Adams will have 8 chevys at his school!

PS: I am also a European trained chevy mechanic.


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## boxcarmarty

Paul, I'm all excited about the new car club. I have 2 Chevalets and a Ford….. Just kidding. I've been intrigued about this since you started creating with them. I'm gonna sit over here in the corner and maybe learn something…..


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## JoeLyddon

I will eavesdrop feeling that it's way over my head & capability…

... carry on…

... thank you…


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## sandhill

Patrick will you be teaching at Mark Adams school? Franklin, IN would be a lot more affordable for me although I like your set up and the music that you play. What artist was it that you and Patrice were disagreeing about being a jazz artist? I am putting together a CD set for my shop and I loved the ones you all were playing.


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## boxcarmarty

Wow, It just got real interesting. I live about 20 minutes from Franklin…..


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## Druid

While I don't have a chevalet . . . yet . . . I do hope to eventually add one to my workshop. In the meantime, I feel that there is a lot that I will be able to learn from this type of group discussion, explanations, and demos.
I'm in.


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## MNedman

Well I guess by Patrick's definition, I am the proud owner of a 55 Chevy.

First order of business: I nominate Paul for President of this fine club, and Patrick as Chairman of the Board.

Can I get a second?


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## rustynails

Count me in as a 57 Chevy owner…

Patrick I see you have added one to the stable since my visit. When is the 3rd floor going in?

O and I second it Matt …


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## rance

Paul, put me down for a "want to build/own". I'll gladly be the little church mouse.


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## shipwright

Welcome aboard Patrick. I was hoping you'd drop in.

I guess I have the newest wheels in the crowd, tall drink of water that I am.
I own a pair of 64's ( That was the year they replaced the stretcher with a foot), one in Arizona sun dried Douglas Fir and one in native B.C. Garry Oak. I've also built one for a friend.

I will second the Chairman of the Board motion by Mathew and just say "thanks" to everyone for all the early interest. I think we can exchange lots of ideas and information here.

Shall we do photos?


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## alba

Paul, this is wonderful. Keeping the older ways alive
My interest is purely to drool, I think the actual Chevy's 
Just look awesome.
Good luck with the group
Jamie


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## stefang

Great idea Paul. I will be eavesdropping while I learn and who knows, maybe there will be a chevy in my future?


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## redryder

First time I've seen one of these sex machines. Hope we can learn more about them…........................


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## Frankcello

I got me a 64 "chevy", made completly from hard maple, still learning how to drive it though! It has done some good work, check out these little roses done with the piece by piece method. Now don't look too close guys, especially Patrice, you might see some gaps! http://www.homesteadheritage-woodworking.com/blog/?p=884

Thanks for starting this up Paul, way to go! I am looking forward to seeing more here.


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## JR45

Please add my name to the membership. I hope to build one soon.
Jim


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## sandhill

I have a 62 chevy


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## CharlieM1958

If we're going to have a chevalet club, we gotta have a Ford club too….


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## Woodenwizard

Count me in. Don't actually have a Chevy yet unless you consider the one I use in my dreams.


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## rustynails

57 Ash Chevy low rider….


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## MNedman

Ok, I went back and checked my owners manual, and I stand corrected…I have mine set up as a 57 chevy, but it could be set up anywhere between 54-60 with the range of arm height adjustment I allowed for. It can also be set up as either left or right handed with only the goose neck parts needing to be swapped out. Made from entirely reclaimed beech and oak and locally sourced hardware.




























Also, for those of you that are thinking of building your own, here are the plans originally published by Pierre Ramond in his textbook Marquetry.



















Ramond's plans are for a 54 model chevy, with the height (in cm) being measured from the top of the seat to the height of the blade. By today's standards a 54 would be short for most of us. I guess the folks who were riding the chevy's that Ramond was referencing were somewhat vertically challenged  My 57 works great for me, I am 5'11".

Perhaps Patrick can post on here the recommended heights for today's users.

Between these plans and the sketch up models out in the warehouse, and the experience of fellow LJ's who are in the club, I'm pretty sure we could help you overcome any challenges you face in taking this project on.

Jump right in, the cutting is fine!


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## kizerpea

Paul…i dont have one …but i,ll keep watching…


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## phtaylor36

Count me in. Mine is still in Rance's sketch-up stage, but I'm sure we'll move into lumber soon…


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## JR45

Should chevalet users be called"Chevaliers"? Just a thought.
Jim


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## shipwright

No, Jim I don't think so. 
Chevalet is the French for "easel" and has no connection with "cheval" (horse),
so while some do refer to operating a chevy as "riding" I'm not sure that makes us horsemen.
That said, any connection is better than the term "donkey" which apparently comes from a past mis-translation from French, Dutch and English.


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## JR45

Paul
I know, i was just trying to move away from the "car" tag! The easel is far more appropriate especially when you read about some of the earlier descriptions of the marqueteur's work as peinture en bois (painting in wood). Yannick Chastang's book "French Marquetry Furniture - Paintings in Wood" is worth getting hold of to learn about the history of the process through the centuries.
Jim


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## helluvawreck

I haven't done any marquetry yet but I would like to learn and plan on giving it a good old try. I get the impression that if I'm interested in marguetry I should definitely be interested in building a chevalet. Would I be right in thinking this way or not? I got this book from Amazon a couple of weeks ago but haven't even looked at it yet. Is this a good book or should I look for another? I don't know hardly anything about marquetry except that it is beautiful when done right.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## WPatrick

I am so glad to see this group. When I first sat on this tool in the 1970's it was completely unknown to Americans.
There are a few rare references in some English publications, but not a lot of actual user information, until Pierre Ramond's book, "Marquetry" was published in English by Taunton Press in 1989. That is the book to get. Threre is a reprint of this book by the Getty press in 2000 with a different cover, but the content is identical to the original.

The size of the tool is important, and as has been pointed out by Matthew, is measured in cm (metric) from the top of the seat to the blade in the resting position. It is a function of your sitting height, rather than overall height. The knob of the saw should be about the top of the collar bone or base of the neck. The reason is that the saw frame needs to be low enough to allow the know to rest on your shoulder while you tension the blade, and also be high enough to allow good user visibility of the action without bending uncomfortably over. The worker should be able to sit up straight and properly control the saw with comfort.

I was sent a photo of the chevalet at Denver Museum which has an adjustable seat. I will try to find that and post it. However, it is best for single users to build a fixed size chevalet for their own use. Most adjustable tools are used in schools or public demonstrations.

Patrick
European Trained and Certified Chevalet Mechanic


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## wallachuck

Just joining up per Patrick Edwards' suggestion in his blog post. I have used his personal chevalet at the American School of French Marquetry. He let me use it because we are about the same height and also it has a cushioned leather seat, something I appreciated after a few hours cutting.

I have a pseudo chevalet based on a design by Patrick in Am. Woodworker Mag. in 1996. The original design has been highly modified and a photo will be posted here at some point in the future. Based on the hours I have put in making it work suitably, I can say that the next one I build will be from the parts kit and plans that Patrick offers and be of a traditional design.

I have also done some digging into the term "chevalet" which translates most literally as "small horse" and the French use it for a broad number of items which is quite interesting. The "easel" term works in from the Dutch which is their word for "ass", "donkey" or "small horse" loosely speaking. My own thought is that the British picked it up from there as "donkey". They have a historic antipathy toward the French which may be why they have stuck with the term. One wonders.


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## Buckethead

Okay… Thanks to the photos, I see what a chevalet is, but what does it do? Please pardon my ignorance, but it does give you fine gentlemen an opportunity to expound on the benefits of such an obviously worthy piece of machinery.

Edit: in reading further, it becomes more apparent that it is a saw used for fine/intricate cutting of veneers? Marquetry?


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## shipwright

OK Buckethead I guess it may be time for a video or two. ... OK three. 
There seem to be several looking in here who still don't know how the chevalet works. 
Here are three views. First an overview of the whole tool showing the use of the feet and the hands, then closer and then closer yet.

The first one is a demonstration of the keyhole test for absolute squareness of the blade to the packet.
















The piece being cut in the last one has a maximum dimension of about 1/2". The chevalet can cut much smaller pieces with extreme accuracy. There are actually four identical pieces being cut in the veneer packet shown .


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## Buckethead

Thanks shipwright! I you just dispelled a few misconceptions I had. I thought this type of work was done with much thinner stock… And cut with a razor knife or exacto knife, or maybe even a scroll saw.

The "blade" is so remarkably thin. Is it actually a toothed blade or is it an abrasive wire?


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## JR45

Wallachuck
I would strongly dispute your assertion that "the British have a historic antipathy toward the French"! To state that we have "a deep-seated feeling of dislike; aversion" (antipathy)of the French is just not true. Remember the "Entente Cordiale"?
Jim


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## MikeLingenfelter

Very cool Paul!

I just picked up a kit from Patrick and hope to get started on my Chevalet soon.


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## shipwright

*Buckethead*, The stock is thin. Most of us today have to use veneers that vary from 1/32" to 1/64". 
The piece in the first video is 1/4" MDF and is only being used to check squareness. 
The pieces in the other videos are packets comprised of several layers of veneers and "wasters" or "backers".

The blade is a 2/0 and is as I remember, .01" thick.


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## Patricelejeune

Hi there

I am all for the club and would like to join. Thanks for doing that Paul. 
I had my first encounter with marquetry in my 4th year in Ecole Boulle, when we had to visit and learn and get familiarized with other workshop. I spend a month glass cutting, beveling, decorating, sand blasting…, then a month staining polishing, then another month in marquetry. I loved it, I even cheated to stay 2 months.

I tried different tools, the scroll saw, the overhead saw, but definitely the chevalet was most students favorite.

During this summer with to other friends from the marquetry workshop we made 3 chevalets. Mine followed me around, first in my living-room, were it was very handy as you can sit uncomfortably 2 person on it and the arm is great to put your glass on. Then my workshop.

When I did emigrate to join Patrick Edwards at Antique Refinishers and the American School of French Marquetry, here in San Diego, I had to find a keeper, a chevalet sitter, as I will never get rid of it. It is like a first love, my first chevalet. I will not compare as a first car, sorry guys, I am not americanized enough yet.





































JR45, I do not dislike english people you are right, but you can not say there is only friendship admiration and deep liking between our countries, you call us frog, we call you rosbeef, and with that spelling. I know… Entente cordiale is nice (and lets keep it that way) but recent in regard of the deep and long history of dislike before that between our countries. To be clear, the hundred years war was just a wee bit of it. But do not worry about the french english thing, here I deal with the american french stuff. We are suppose to hate each other also, as it seems…

But this is not the subject.

Regarding the fact that the chevalet is called a donkey by the english, it comes from the french, as the ancester of the chevalet was called an "asne" or "âne" in new french, which can be roughly translated as… donkey!!! And I strongly believe it comes from the italian before that, this remain to be checked. I will have to learn italian first…

You can find where we are at in our research on the subject presently in a post Patrick made on his blog, which features an "Asne", donkey. Here is the earlier illustration I found so far, 1676










The "âne" after the addition of the arm at some point became a chevalet. We haven't found that yet, but it stayed a donkey for the english speakers.

On my side, maybe I am to romantic, to many 19th century reading, I am very attached to the chevalet term and especially signification, an "easel" for painting in wood, I think it makes our passion, marquetry, stand more as an art form, rather than a mere discipline. We are no more riding a horse on a daily journey man!!! (pun intended), but we sit on our easels to create, as painters, only with wood.


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## Patricelejeune

Ho and here is the only american reference I found so far to the chevalet, published in 1927


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## JR45

Patrice
My earlier comment was not directed towards you in any way whatsoever, so please do not take it that way.
Let's stick to the discussion of marquetry and chevalet as this will be more productive, interesting and enlightening for all of us.
Regards
Jim


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## JeremyPringle

Im in.


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## MNedman

Patrice, thanks for joining the club and sharing your experience with the chevalet with us. Also thanks for the link back to Patrick's blog and the translations there of the Ramond text.

Any additional information you can provide on the 1927 American reference? What publication was this picture published in? It sure looks like a massive machine…on a scale even larger than Frankenstein (Patricks first chevalet). The arm seems to be really long and I can't imagine anyone sitting that far back from the vise to need the bench so long.

Interesting!


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## rustynails

A question for the club:
.
What are you members using for the backer and face boards for your packets? 
(Material and thickness) Also how are you gluing your final work? Hide glue? Are you using Patrick's French paper? I see shipwright you used contact paper on your current ship building project. (Looking good by the way) Is anyone using veneer tape and gluing it right down on your final sub straight?

Thanks Richard


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## shipwright

I use cheap 1/8" plywood (door skin material) both sides for Boulle and PIW but only one side with piece by piece.

I'm just using the Contact paper on this project as a preview. The final assembly will be on the French butcher's paper. I do use Contact only on less complex assemblies however. I glue to substrate with hot hide glue and heated aluminium cauls.


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## wallachuck

This is a photo of the current iteration of a "Portable Chevalet" originally designed by W. Patrick Edwards and published in American Woodworker magazine in 1996. My late friend and woodworking mentor Vern Voss and I had an interest in marquetry for antique music box case lids. He called and said he was going to cut out the parts for two and send me one to assemble. He applied some of his own ideas based on Pierre Ramond's book "Marquetry" published by Taunton Press.

The device can be mounted on a workbench or as in this case a folding Sears Craftsman tool stand which allows it to travel somewhat. I have used it several times to display and demonstrate at woodworking shows held by the *Northeastern Woodworkers Association*. It meets the basic requirements of a foot operated vise, a deep throated saw using 5" jewelers or scroll saw blades and can be adjusted so the blade is perpendicular to the work. I use an upholstered piano stool which allows some height adjustment for the operator.

It has a few idiosyncrasies which I am still learning to adjust to especially remembering to see that the vise assembly remains perpendicular. I have a tendency to kick the bottom away with my feet.

The next photo shows it being used at a demonstration.










While this is adequate, I still want to build a proper chevalet.


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## shipwright

That's the first one of those I've seen Chuck. Welcome to the club.

*Chevalet posting sighting*. Check this forum and this project post.


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## WPatrick

Rare Chevalet Sighting!

Richard Poitras, who has a chevalet recently sent me this photo. It is a chevalet which is being used for demonstrations at the Detroit Institute of Arts in Michigan. I recall a student years ago who bought a kit and is probably the owner of this interesting tool, but I've lost his name.

It has a seat which you can raise or lower with pegs as necessary. It just slides up and down the column. Cool idea.

I would appreciate any help in tracking down this person so I can compliment him on his work.


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## rustynails

Patrick I was told it was made by Craig Flaming of "The Creative Hand"

www.TheCreativeHand.com

PM Sent with more information….

Richard


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## apprentice

Please could anyone tell me what length the longest blades available for the Chevy.


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## JR45

Longest ones I have seen advertised are 130mm on the NIQUA site.
Jim


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## shipwright

I use 30 and 60 tpi 2/0 blades about 7 1/4" long. The extra length makes a big difference. I get them from Patrick at ASFM.


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## apprentice

Thanks guys, I will do some more digging to see if any more can be found, there must be some in China by now, I will get my man there to see if he can come up with anything.


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## apprentice

Hi Folks

After all the designing, dust and toil the moment came to test out the new Chevy. Once I got the swing of things the saw almost followed the line itself, now one can see the advantage of the swing tree motion keeping in beat with each stroke of the blade, those old boys back in Italy in the 1600 th century worked out geometry I guess.

My very first keyhole test on my new plywood Chevy went Ok, the plug came out less than half a millimeter out of true, which I put down to my wobbling about, the test piece was done in 3/4" birch plywood what the Chevy is made of, it was a bit tough to cut through but got around in a few minuites.




























Next test is the real veneer and pack and a design which should be easier going on the blade.


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## apprentice

A few more things I will have to do is cut off the nip bolt protrusionso the blade holder can fit easily between the vice jaws so I can make use of the entire 130.00mm blade.

Also, with my vice opening in the opposite direction to the conventional Chevy I found it better to have the blade cutting on the pull stroke like a Japanese dovetail saw which I personally use a lot of.


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## apprentice

Jim

Just got off the phone with Niqua and they do a 160.00mm blade, they are not currently advertised in their cat, so you need to specify the size of 160.00.

I may have found another outlet for blades in China, but still waiting to get detailed confirmation on quality etc, so the windows open on the Chevy world.

There is still need for research into any potential new religion or re-birth of any former art form, especially where most people invisiage marquetry being done with the knife, the mystque of any hidden or practical profession has a certain kind of draw to it, so there is scope for anyone to have a go if the correct knowledge is shared with the whole.

I'm not under any illusion that the Chevy will become as popular as a Black and Decker Workmate, but if orientated properly this way of doing things could be made available to a lot more people with the skills available today, of which there are many well capable of doing the biz here on L J's.


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## Sodabowski

Hi Gentlemen 

I'm in. I don't have one yet, but I *will* build one, i *want* one (hey, how could a French guy making marquetry from time to time *not* want one of these?). Thanks for creating the Club Paul 

Peace and friendship from Paris.


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## shipwright

*Just did a little* personalized handle upgrade on my B.C. chevy. I always knew that the pretty cocobolo one I originally made would buy the farm one day. It was never really very strong.










*The new one *carries my cipher, a combination of my initials, PRM, that I have been using since I was about ten years old. Of course back then it was just my initials crammed together. I didn't know it was a cipher until last year when Patrice clued me in on artist's ciphers. ... who knew?


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## Sodabowski

Which proves art is in the blood and comes early. 
Nice update! To bad the Cocobolo didn't withstand the test of time.


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## tinnman65

OK let me post the first picture of my chevalet, now its still in its early stage but I have confidence that there is a "chevy" in that pc. of wood. I've had this maple 9"X 4.25" X 12' for several years looking for the right project. Somehow I thought it would be an actual pc. of furniture but you do sit on the chvealet so does that count as furniture ?  I thought if I posted on this forum I would be committed to the build and I am counting on the rest of you to keep me honest in finishing this project. I'm going to be using the sketchup plans Paul posted. 
Paul, I'm about 5' 11'' will those plans work for a comfortable height or do I need to make an adjustment? Let me just say that will probably not be the last question you get from me on this project! I will post pictures of my progress along the way.


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## DanKrager

Tinnman65, that is one gorgeous piece of wood, and a worthy destination for it. Building one for myself is on my bucket list, but in the larger scheme of things here, won't happen for quite awhile yet. That will give me time to stumble across such a beautiful timber, and find just the right stuff and style.
I can see that Craftsman saw sagging just thinking about cutting it, but that Grizzly in the background will eat it up! 
Good luck, and do keep us posted.
DanK


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## shipwright

Great news Paul. You have already shown your talent for marquetry and with a chevalet in your hands (and under your butt) there's no end to what you will be able to do.
There is definitely a chevalet in that piece of maple and of course it is furniture. My chevy is about the most comfortable place to sit in my shop, and that's a good thing because I sit there a lot.
I don't remember the measurement on the sketch up but mine is about 25" (63 cm) and I'm 6'4" so you would likely want about 23" but I've made mine quite adjustable and it really is a personal "feel" sort of thing so if you build in some flexibility you can tweak later. Some of the others may want to jump in and give their opinions based on their own experiences on that one as well.
Ask me all the questions you like. I'll help in any way I can. I'll PM you my email address.


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## tinnman65

Dan K that's funny but true! That is exactly what I did. I just couldn't do that to that poor little craftsman saw, no reason to punish it for doing nothing wrong. I started cutting the larger parts on the band saw, a 20" Bridgewood and with a 3/4" 3tpi blade it cut it easily. I heard the craftsman breath a sigh of relief after I was done  I was going to make a cardboard cutout of a SAW STOP and cover my little table saw when I took the picture but I thought you guys would see right through my ploy.

Paul, thanks for the info, the plans ,and for your email. I will be taking you up on the offer for help. Now if you could fit one of these on your "FRIENDSHIP" you would have the best of both worlds LOL!


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## WPatrick

I would like to answer the most basic question about building and using a chevalet. What size do I build?

I spent over 30 years of my life racing semi-professionally and appreciate the advantage of a custom made bicycle frame. If it fits, you can forget about the bike and focus on the race. My chevalet has replaced my bike and now I race around the design, avoiding crashes and competing against myself for best time.

The knob on the saw frame is simply there for pressing against the shoulder during the tensioning of the blade. The knob should be rather flat and comfortable. It is not a handle! You hold the saw frame near the knob on the flat part of the saw arm.

Therefore the knob should be at about the height of the shoulder, or to put it simply, at the base of the throat when the worker is sitting comfortably on the seat. If it is too high or too low, it is difficult to tension the blade.

Since all bodies are different, it is not a direct ratio of overall height to proper size of chevalet. Like custom bike frames, if the upper body is longer than normal, the top tube is longer, and if the lower body is longer the down tube is longer.

In the case of the chevalet, however, there is no reason to change the height of the seat above the pedals, since most people sit comfortably on normal chairs. The real important distance is the height of the blade above the seat, when it is resting in the "V".

Just measure yourself sitting normally, from seat top to bottom of throat. (Use METRIC!)

((Really, guys, how hard is it to use a metric rule??))


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## tinnman65

Thanks for clearing that up Patrick, I remember seeing one of those metric rulers when I was in elementary school but I thiought they quit making them because no one used them. In all honesty I have heard from several people that once you start using metric you will wounder why you waited so long to use it. I think I have a metric ruler around somewhere


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## WPatrick

Secret tip: Stanley makes a tape measure which has both English and Metric. You can use it secretly and, if another woodworker notices, you can read out the inches, just to keep up your image. If you are alone, you can use the metric side. Have it both ways!


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## DanKrager

WPatrick, that is just sneaky! I have one of those tapes as a remedy for trying to go metric all the way a while back. I just couldn't do it at that time because there was too much stuff locally available only in inches. Machinery, for example, is either SAE or a mix of SAE and metric requiring a mix of tools. Metric drill bits are still hard to come by locally and have to be ordered. Traditional woodworking and construction in this country has always (?) been done in inches for some reason. I would have thought that the immigrants from Europe would have brought metric with them. Metric does seem to be more pervasive now than it was, but John Deere hasn't made the switch entirely yet. And I have yet to meet a contractor building in metric.
DanK


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## WPatrick

American architecture is designed around the standard 4×8' sheet unit. However, I note the 4×8 ply is now listed as 18mm thick! I guess fractions are just too difficult for most of us, me included.

I had thought the transition would be driven by the oil industry. People in Europe pay by the litre, which is about 4 to the gallon, by our loose standards. Thus, when we are complaining about $4/gallon, they are paying $2/litre. It makes sense to me that American gas stations would be happy to convert, since the street signs would go from 4-something to 2 something, and people would be more satisfied about the cost, until they realized a fill up was still close to $100.

Just ask yourself: how many fingers do you have? (This assumes you work with hand tools.)


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## shipwright

I'm ambinumerous. I grew up in Canada with the English system and just when I had it all down to rote muscle memory we switched to metric. I now live in metric Canada for six months and Standard English USA for the other six.
To make matters more confusing yet, the highway signs on I 19 by Green Valley Az. are in kilometers. You can actually see signs there that say next exit 2 Km and then one that says exit speed 50 mph.

I'm screwed!


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## JR45

Metric to Imperial is easy! All you need to know is your 25.4 times table (multiplication and division)!
Jim


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## smokey56

Paul…....love the idea. Also, great idea having "our icons, Patrick and Patrice, to have some honor in this. After all they are our "go-to" people for information (except for Patrice's shoes). 
Ken Stover


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## smokey56

Regarding the knob…..........I made one; however Patrick's plans called for the saw blade holder to have an extended threaded bolt on the "farthest away blade holder". It was equipped with a wing-nut. I found it easy to loosen or tighten the blade with this wing-nut. Assembling a new blade can be done easily with two hands, the work inserted and THEN the blade tensioned to the desire level. I seem to have more control over the tension this was…....especially using 5/0 blades. Having explained this, Patrick and Patrice may find fault with this method. So, my knob is a hood ornament for my chevy and sometimes I hang it on the Christmas tree in December.

Ken Stover


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## shipwright

I hear you Ken. I use a hybrid method. I find it a PITA to try to hold the blade in place and tighten it at the same time with the same hand so I install the blade as you do. Having secured the near end I then use my shoulder against the knob and right hand on the back saw frame to tension as Patrick does. When I have the tension I like, I spin down the wing nut on the back with my left hand. Of course my clamp fittings are slightly different as I make my own.


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## apprentice

Come up with a novel way of setting the blade tension, its a beam of wood with a ledge at one end and a set cam on the other, place it over the saw frame, spin the cam to lock position, fit the blade, release cam, pictures coming soon.


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## DanKrager

I hear your rant, bro. Nuf said.
That came idea sounds great! Can't wait to see the pics.
DanK


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## smokey56

One of the greatest advantages we, as chevy drivers, have over scroll saw users, is the ability to make sharp points when doing Boulle packets (Tarsia a Incastro). Piece by piece (separate packet) methods are about equal between the two sawing methods. It would be good to hear from you some of your sawing/cutting methods for making super sharp points (e.g. tips of leaves). 
Also, how to turn 180 degrees and not see the turning hole.

Ken Stover


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## tinnman65

As I promised here are a couple photos of the start of my chevy build. As you can see its just the main bones of the tool. I have a few things to refine or should I say clean up but I think I'm off to a good start. Nothing is glued at this stage. I can see even at this stage that this is a pretty beefy tool. I used almost that whole piece of wood I posted and I had to practically drag that thing into the shop. I should be close enough with the wood from that pc. I guess all the easy work is done and now I have to work on all the moving parts. I think this is were the real fun starts and the headaches begin.


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## shipwright

Great start Paul.
You have the musician's bench all built ….. all that's left is the violin.


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## DanKrager

Looking promising, Paul. I'm encouraged to see someone doing this because I still fully intend to build one. It's on my bucket list! Right now I've got myself involved in 2 or 3 projects that will have to be finished first.
Carry on!
DanK


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## smokey56

Looks great, Paul. What type of saw frame metal slide system are you going to use. Also, how about the blade holders…....do you have them already?

Ken


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## tinnman65

Ken I,m just ordered a set of 3/8 self aligning end bearings similar to the ones used by Paul (shipwright) on his blog. I am going off his plans so it will look just like his setup including the blade holders which I plan to make. It seems the closer I get to finishing this project the more eager I am to using it. I'm at the point were I can almost not stand waiting yo get it done! I guess there's always tomorrow to cut the fire wood, mow the lawn, wash the truck, ect. ect. ect. Who wants to do those things when there's a unfinished chevy in the shop.


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## shipwright

Sounds like you're just about there. Will you make the first marquetry project a decorative piece for the front of the arm clamp? I have done that on both of mine to serve as a baseline to compare later work.


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## tinnman65

Well I still have to make the pedal, the upper roller attachment,the two parts that hold the bearings, and the saw frame. I do have the saw frame parts cut out but they need the joinery cut. I'm going to have to go shopping for some bar stock and 3/8 stainless rod for the saw carriage. I think I see the light at the end of the tunnel but nothing is glued up. I think I will likely buy some "Old Brown Glue" from Patrick and give it a try. 
Paul I will definitely put some marquetry on that arm clamp because I had to glue two pieces together to make it and you can see the glue line.


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## MNedman

Great progress on the build so far Paul you are within sight of the finish line. I understand the impatience you feel to start using it, keep with it!

For your metal stock needs, check out speedymetals.com. I had tremendous success with their price, product, and service.


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## shipwright

I've been asked to do a demo for the Vancouver Island woodworkers' guild. I won't repeat it all here but you can check out this project post.
I'll be sure to mention ASFM and their fine staff.


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## cathyb

Firstly, congrats. I haven't read the previous posts, but some probably say what I would advise. 
I have taught cooking classes and was featured on a show on HGTV. In both cases, I had to produce a lot in an abbreviated amount of time. The solution is obvious and I will give a food class as an example. Every step is already completed ahead of time. You introduce the topic, produce the product and peek their interest by saying that you intend to make this motif. You introduce your tools start a cut and then stop to show the extra piece that was cut in advance. Break down the process into definable steps and have a completed element for every step. If this were food, I wouldn't have wasted my precious class time cutting onions when everyone gets the point. I also wouldn't wait around for my quiche to rise, a quiche would have been in the oven cooking throughout the class. You get the idea…...Throughout the session this will be the technique and it will save you because many people will have questions that would otherwise slow you down and off course. The worse case scenario to run short of time which will disappoint everyone. Enjoy the day and we will be rooting for you


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## tinnman65

Somehow I missed you project post but I too wish you the best of luck in your Demo. Maybe after the demo you will be invited back to give instruction on building a chevy.


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## smokey56

I have access to the metal parts of the chevalet. They aren't fancy but they do a great job. I can find out how much they sell for if anyone is interested. When I say "metal", I mean the frame slide and the up and down adjustment plates, the blade holders and the clamping system. 
Someone tell me how to send photos in these replies and I'll send some.

Ken Stover


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## Wally331

I don't know if any of you have seen this video, but apparently knew concepts is working on a chevalet- made from aluminum or titanium. The owner talks about it near the end, but the video is fun to watch if your a mythbusters fan anyways. I can't wait to see what they come up with.


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## shipwright

I looked it up. Here is the URL.
Look around the six and a half minute mark. The fellow describing their new chevalet has a photo of one of Patrick's chevys ( I recognize it) but describes them as weighting 800 lbs and having a cross arm made of 6 X 6 oak.

I can't imagine how expensive these will be but it will be many many times more than mine cost me, that's for sure.


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## WPatrick

I guess the secret is out. Good job, guys! I met Brian from Knew Concepts at the Pasadena show and we began discussing how possible it would be to make a "Knew" type of chevalet, using his technology. Well, we have had hours of emails and discussions about how to do this. Essentially, there are three components necessary: the saw frame, the saw frame holder and the foot actuated clamp. Making these in wood is fairly easy, but the chevalet takes up room and some workers prefer to just buy their tools, and not make them. So he started with the saw frame. The prototype you see in the video is where he ended up, following the logic of his earlier experiments with torsion bar construction.

Of course, it won't work. Now we are starting over and thinking of bicycle tubing or carbon fibre or 3-D printer or something else. I keep coming back to simple: oak, ash or beech. But that is not the project.

If any of you have any ideas let us know. It would be cool to bring the chevalet into the 21th century…


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## WPatrick

By the way, a typical wood chevalet weights less than 90 lbs, fully dressed, blade included!


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## shipwright

I'm sorry Patrick but they have been beaten to the punch. The 21st century chevalet is called a cnc laser.
The chevalet ain't "broke" as it were.
If I might paraphrase my signature line, "If god wanted us to have titanium chevalets …...........


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## Wally331

Haha, sorry about that, I totally forgot to post the link to the video! I suppose it could be made from a honeycomb type structure of carbon fiber or something- lightweight yet strong, and very precise. I for one would love to see a chevalet made from modern materials.


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## smokey56

I agree with Patrick regarding the essential parts of the chevalet. I find two issues with my chevalet that I built. One is that blades commonly angle to one side initially…...most of the time to the right. My suspicions are in the blast holder and the mount in the ash frame. I have learned a trick to correct this. The second issue has to do with the project I'm into now. There are sometimes two or three lines that confluence closely rendering the areas very unstable. Taping front and back is inadequate. If I am able to reach with thumb and index finger, I can be the third side of the vice…..sometimes this is not possible. I have in mind to design a vice device that can be inserted in the jaws. It will be shaped much like a closed keyhole to support the project 360 degrees in a very small area. Ken


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## smokey56

Here is some fodder for you chevalet lovers. When is comes to complicated patterns and with the use of metals, here is an example of what a chevalet can do when the driver cuts on the line. This packet is of pewter, brass and faux tortoiseshell…..each is about 22Ga. The blade is 5/0.


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## MNedman

Wow Ken that is an ambitious project you are cutting! A 5/0 blade! Are you looking through some sort of a magnifier as you are cutting? Where is this pattern from?


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## smokey56

Hi Mathew…....yes, the project is considerable. It is a gaming table…..below is a photo of it. The photo that you are remarking is a macro lens of a packet that is described. To give you some idea, the center formed by the tips of the points is less than 1/2 inch (1.5mm)....a dime is 7/8 inch diameter. Therefore, yes, at my age, 104, I use magnification. This gaming table is in the second volume of Pierre Ramond's "Masterpieces in Marquetry" and is located in a museum in Germany. The pattern is one of a few areas that are in that volume. If you look closely, you will see that yesterday's close up is the same as the second photo below. I have to cut two for the project. Ken


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## DanKrager

Smokey, I missed the post where you said you started this panel at age 16! What an intricate and stunning panel. I am in awe and I may be 104 before I get the chevalet built. My dad lived to 104 and was never ill, so there's strong genes to give me a chance!
DanK


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## tinnman65

Well I FINALLY finished my Chevy! I still have to do a little sanding of a few parts,make a proper seat,add some sort of finish,and of course add that little bit of marquetry in the front like Paul (shipwright) did. I did a test run and yes it works but I have to adjust it to cut properly. I know this was at some point a secret tool in France so now that I have one who is going to come by my house and show me the secret hand shake so I can get into all the REAL Chevalet Clubhouse meetings?







!


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## shipwright

Congratulations Paul. That sure looks like a chevy to me.
Patrick will have to teach us all the secret handshake. It's so secret so far I'm to even sure he knows it. I know I don't.
Keep us posted and let us know your impressions after its all tuned up.


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## rustynails

Paul, I think it official since you have a Chevalet now "You're in the Clubhouse". Pull up your Chevalet and go for a ride.

Nice job on the build.

Richard


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## MNedman

Congrats Paul on getting it done. Looks like it is going to be a great tool! Don't worry too much about getting a finish on it, the chevy's at ASFM have been in service for years and are acquiring a natural patina as their only finish. Jump right on and take it out for a spin!

And yes, you are an official member in good standing!


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## smokey56

nice job. can't wait to see your projects.

Ken


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## tinnman65

Paul, I noticed on your last project you used Inkscape to convert a pencil drawing to a workable marquetry pattern. I downloaded the program but I have no idea were to get started. Do you or anyone else have any advise were to begin with this program or maybe a youtube video you might suggest.


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## shipwright

Hi Paul, Mat got me into Inkscape when we were attending level 1 at ASFM by introducing me to this set of tutorials.
They will get you started.
http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/scroll-saw-design-tutorials/27899.htm


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## DanKrager

I have spent quite a bit of time with Inkscape now making scroll saw patterns from camera photos. Interesting process. You may find it necessary to use a rastor editor (GIMP, Photoshop, or the like) to make some processes faster and more predictable. But a LOT of potential in Inkscape. I'll try to answer questions….
DanK


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## DannyP

Hello fellow chevy affectionados. I am impressed how industrious you guys are in fabricating the wood and metal parts necessary to build a chevalet. If time and desire permit are any of you interested in posting expanded views of this machine in the form of a Sketchup drawing? I have so many fun things to learn. I made copies of the drawings from Pierre Ramond's book, Marquetry, today at the Mpls Public library. What a neat book. Too bad it is $100 at Amazon. It is not clear to me as it should to decipher how this is built. This must be symptomatic of an inexperienced wood worker. Thanks for the videos and pictures Here is a photo of an English variety.

http://www.stuartking.co.uk/index.php/marquetry-by-stuart-king/#more-52


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## shipwright

There's a sketchup that I did of my iteration here. It isn't exactly like Ramond's but it will help you and it does produce a very serviceable chevalet. Everyone here will help if you have questions as we all want to see more chevalets in use.


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## smokey56

I just finished an instructional video on YouTube on working with metals. It shows how to make the packet using pewter, brass and faux tortoiseshell.

Ken Stover


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## rustynails

Ken I tryed to open up your link and it states "This video is private"?

Richard


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## shipwright

Excellent Ken. I hope to get around to some work with metals one day but right now I'm gearing up to start working with my new sawn veneers from France. I may not be young enough to squeeze it all in but seeing you and your extremely ambitious project is a real inspiration.
On a side note I did a little searching on the internet a couple of years ago and found a very affordable tape machine for veneer tape. I can't imagine working without it now.
I usually have a roll of 1 1/2" and a roll of 3/4" in it at the same time.


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## rustynails

Ken the link works now. Great looking work!

Paul nice find on the water tape machine.

Richard


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## tinnman65

Great video Ken. It never ceases to amaze me what I can learn from this web site and the talented people willing to share their vast knowledge. Thanks for the link to the tape machine Paul, I was thinking of building one but if I can find one cheap why bother.


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## smokey56

I just finished an article for the magazine, *The American Marquetarian.* It describes the video in more detain with some history. If you are interested in marquetry with metals, this might be helpful.

Ken


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## stefang

After a little prompting from Paul (Shipwright) I finally decided to build a Chevalet a short while ago. I will be using Paul's Sketchup drawing as a plan and he has also given me some additional info I asked for. Thanks much Paul!

I have been moaning and groaning for the last few years in some of my LJ comments about the difficulties of finding a hardwood supplier here in our area. I did have one for a number of years (the only one in our district), but he didn't have much selection. I was only able to buy white oak and mahogany from him, plus some MDF which is also difficult to find here and some Baltic Birch ply. Unfortunately he went bankrupt a couple of years ago after over expanding.

But there is a happy ending to the story. Yesterday I checked out a newly established supplier not far from where we live. He is stocking just about everything I could ever want, oak, mahogany, maple, purple heart, walnut, teak, nice clear Oregon pine, etc. plus all kinds of platter and ply, both plain and veneered. He also sells veneers for larger panels. *I felt like I had discovered Eldorado!* I just hope he stays in business!

So today I bought about 8 meters (26ft.) of 2" X 5" kiln dried maple. It's European maple and I'm not sure how hard it is, but it is very nice clear and straight planks with only one knot that I can easily cut away. I'm not sure if this will do the whole job, but I think so, and if I have left overs I can use that on some small projects. Here's some photos of what I bought. Just the top 6 layers is maple.



















Prior to this my plan was to use fir for the job, but I knew there would be quite a bit of planing to laminate the boards and to smooth the outside and I didn't want tearout around those hard knots you get with fir, plus I felt it was worth the extra expense for a tool that could last a few hundred years and perhaps be passed down to family members to use or at least to keep as an interesting and unusual family heirloom.

I am considering not doing any Christmas gifts this year since my two grandkids are too busy with sports commitments in December, so they will not be able to work with me in the shop this year. Instead I am thinking about getting to work on the chevalet right away so I can become a member of this rather exclusive club. I find the idea of a club without dues or official duties to be irresistible.


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## CharlieK

Great video Ken!

Thanks for posting,
Charlie


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## shipwright

Welcome aboard Mike. 
I just noticed your post. It's great to see you getting started. 
Keep us posted.


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## stefang

Thanks Paul. I have been planing away on my jointer the last couple of days. I am finished with one face and one edge on all the pieces. We are busy Christmas shopping this week, sending off packages, etc. but I hope to have the thickness planing done this Saturday. I am a bit obsessed about getting on with this project, but I will probably have to wait until after the holidays before doing more. Christmas is a serious month long affair here in Norway with a lot of socializing before and after the event, and I don't want to be a scrooge hiding out in the shop.


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## Patricelejeune

And one more chevy in the herd!


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## stefang

I found an interesting Chevalet photo. I believe it's English made. It is made with much less wood than the French style ones. It appears to have been used a lot, so it is likely a very successful design. The saw frame holders are also very different. It looks like the wood piece that holds the hangers is fixed to the steel rod with wedges.


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## WPatrick

This chevalet was made by Stuart King. He has a post online at stuartking.co.uk

He was working marquetry on this tool during the 1960's.

It is interesting to me how the design of the French tool was modified by the English, probably due to lack of a full understanding of all the features of the original tool.

In any event, all chevys are welcome in the clubhouse.


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## DanKrager

I'm liking that Chevalet Mike posted. Now, in the interest of broadening my horizons (as opposed to my waist), what features does this model lack that the French designs have????
DanK


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## jmartel

Is the general consensus that using a Chevalet for marquetry is easier than a scroll saw? Scroll saw would take less space in my small garage, but if a Chevalet is better, I may have to make one instead of buying a scroll saw.


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## WPatrick

To answer Dan about the english tool compared to the French tool I need to try to be objective…which is not possible for me. Both tools have foot operated jaws and a sliding arm to hold the saw. Both have a seat and are useful to cut marquetry packets. One is decorated as if it were a stand alone sculpture. The other is a basic tool with simple lines. That is the biggest difference.

I suspect the real difference would be determined only by test driving each one. Some of us like to drive chevys with lots of chrome and fancy wheels. Some of us like to drive chevys which are simply functional.

Both will probably get you where you want to go.

And to answer jmartel, yes, the chevalet is far superior to a scroll saw, in that you have much more control and fun. And yes, it does take a two car garage!


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## shipwright

...... or perhaps not. This is my 6 foot square marquetry shop at my Green Valley place.
It occupies half of a 6' X 12' laundry / utility building outside the back door of the house.
My chevy takes up about 1/4 of my end but there's a workbench, a 20" X 20" veneer press, a stack of marquetry shelves (drawers), storage shelves and about four or five different veneer storage arrangements. ...... cozy.










I do have a scroll saw and I recently found a good use for it. It is quite heavy and my new sawn veneers needed to stay flat while I was away for the winter.


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## Druid

Interesting use for your scrollsaw . . . but should I point out the fact that the weight is not evenly distributed on your veneer? Don't worry though, I have a solution that would guarantee even pressure across a full 24" x 24" area.
In order to assist you with keeping your veneer flat, I would gladly swap a brand new 24" x 24" patio block for the DeWalt . . . or maybe the scrollsaw solution is working well for you?


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## stefang

Thanks for clearing that up for me Patrick. My first thought looking at it was that it might not have quite the stability of the French design with it's small foot on the main column and the lighter weight seating arrangement, plus the lack of a comfortable place to have your feet while cutting.

The photo of your work space is encouraging to me *Paul*. My setup will be very similar with my new bench at my back and the chevalet facing the wall. The main thing that I'm worried about is that the drawers under my bench might be restricted from opening, but I'm hoping that when need be I can just swing the chevalier a little to give access to the drawers.

In case you are wondering, I am building your design, not the English one. I kind of liked that King added a few embellishments like many craftsmen do with their tools. He was surely very proud of his chevy and the fact that it was probably unique in England at the time. Personally, I'm more interested in function than beauty, but I can still fully appreciate the aesthetic improvements others make to their tools.

My wife ordered the book 'Marquetry' by Pierre Ramond for me as a Christmas present. It arrived in Norway and was sent to the wrong post office on 30/12, so I'm now waiting for it to arrive at our local post office today or tomorrow, I hope. I'm really excited about getting it. I'm planning to start building my chevy tomorrow. As much as I want to get started doing marquetry work, I am looking almost equally forward to enjoying the chevy build.


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## shipwright

Mike, my bench is like a desk. It has shelves on the left and leg space on the right. The chevy is opposite the leg space so I can just turn around and be seated at the workspace. It is kind of in between bench height and desk height. Can you work that ? I think I remember you saying that your bench would have leg access for working seated.


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## stefang

Had I known that I was going to be building a chevy I would have put the drawers at the other end of my bench. As it is, my lathe occupies the space directly across from where the opening for sitting is. I might be able to move my lathe towards the area across from the drawers, which might provide enough space for the checyy across from the sitting area, but I will have to take a close look at it tomorrow to see it that's possible. The lathe now sits under the stairs to the loft which might also obstruct the chevy.


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## stefang

I've been working on my Chevalet as often as I can get into the shop. I'm not counting the hours, but I'm sure it will be more than the 40 hours Paul used on his. I'm building it from Maple. It's pretty hard stuff. The hardest task so far has been the the double mortises for the main column. My Forstner bit just didn't cut it (maybe need sharpening) so I used a 20mm spade bit which broke! So much for Miller Falls. I then had to use an 18mm spade bit which worked fine, but was a little too small, so I had to do a lot of hard chisel work. Otherwise the build is a lot of fun and idiot proof using Paul's very accurate and well done Sketchup drawings. I wouldn't be able to do this without them.

Here's a couple of photos just to prove that I am actually working on it. I have other components finished than shown in the photos, but nothing is glued up or screwed together yet. Today was the first time it started resembling a Chevalet.



















I'm taking my time and re-measuring often as a mistake can cost me a whole expensive plank. So far so good. I expect to be done by the end of the month or probably a little sooner. In case you noticed the little diamond shaped holes on the front clamp, I chiseled 'V' tracks where the clamp bolts will go. I was afraid of a wandering bit, so it seemed worth the extra effort to do them to get accurate placement.


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## jmartel

I'm in the process of trying to figure out if I can fit one into my shop. Might have to make mine with some casters on the front that can be used when lifting the rear to move it around.


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## stefang

I'm pretty sure mine won't fit in my shop, but what the heck, I just want one anyway!


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## shipwright

Damn the torpedoes, Mike. Full steam ahead.
That's looking really good. I can't wait to se the stuff you will cut with it.


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## dbray45

Just found this, looking to make one of these as well. Thanks Paul for your help so far.


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## MikeLingenfelter

*jmartel *- I also have a small shop and need to move my Chevalet around. I haven't found a solution yet. I found these casters at Rockler, they might work. I want something I can engage and disengage. I'm still looking, and will share if I find something that will work.

http://www.rockler.com/workbench-caster-kit-4-pack

Mike


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## dbray45

Screw straight casters (not swivel) on the front of both sides of the cross leg, put a good iron door handle on the back of the seat. When you pick up on the handle, you bring the front onto the casters. When you set it down, everything is on their proper feet.


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## MikeLingenfelter

*David *- I've tried that approach in the past, but wasn't happy with how it worked. Maybe I needed different casters. This is still one of options I'm looking at. Thanks

Mike


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## jmartel

That's what I was talking about, David. That's the current plan when I can get around to making one.

Using normal Douglas Fir 4×4's would be fine for this, correct? I can get those cheap. I don't want to have to buy 16/4 Oak or anything if I don't need to.


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## shipwright

*Mike*, have a look at the way I mounted the casters on my little bench here.


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## MikeLingenfelter

Thanks Paul. I missed that on your project, when you posted it. That might be a better way of attaching the casters than I had tried before. Maybe I'll give that a try.


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## stefang

Douglas fir would work just fine *JMartel*. I paid a bit for the maple, but I figured that it would be well worth the cost considering what can be done with it. I saw one advertised by a builder on the net for about $2,200. I spent about $250, for all my materials I need to finish the project except for the bolts. I figured that it will last a few lifetimes and I'm hoping that some family member might use it in the future, so worth the little extra I paid. My actual cost is a little lower as I will still have a 40" x 6-1/2" x 2" plank left over for other projects when I'm finished.

My main worry now is just how I will be able to find the space for it. I don't want casters on it, but I may use some nylon gliders, which would work well enough on my smooth shop floor.

Thanks *Paul*. I admired that very smart feature when you posted your workbench. I'm not sure yet if I will need to move my Chevalet, but your caster mounts look like a pretty slick solution so I will keep it in mind If I can't find a permanent place for it.


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## dbray45

Paul, that is exactly what I was thinking - nice bench.

I have access to some nice red oak for a good price, same tree that my workbench came from. I just have to finish drying it.


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## shipwright

*jmartel*, My first chevy (Az chevy) is D.Fir and it's just fine. It's almost three years old now and still bang on square with the adjusters right in the centre of their tracks. (no adjustments).


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## N6DSW

All kidding aside for a moment about me being old and a softy…

I have an open ended question for all you esteemed chevalet users. Everyone please feel free to comment. Good or bad.

I have been thinking about building a chevalet for over a year now and find myself just about to pull the trigger and start buying and cutting up wood to start assembly based on Shipwright's Sketchups drawings. But I have this nagging question that keeps rattling round between my ears, more and more.

Why is it if this tool is to be used extensively and for long periods of time, (and by some of the exquisite marquetry projects posted on LJ it is obvious folks spent some SERIOUS time in the saddle), are users sitting on a narrow ~10" wide flat plank between their legs?

Is it because it is such a "simple" machine, purest wanted to keep it in its original form?

All of the drawings I have seen of chevalet all use the basic same simple design. Apox. 10×12" plank for a seat.

That would be fine if I was a teenager. Heck I spent more time than I care to remember sitting on top of a wooded fence killing my summer vacations. But now that I am very close to my third time around at "being a 21-year old", I have gotten very comfortable in sitting in a fully adjustable padded desk secretary chair.

To prove my point, everyone who is reading this stop think about what you are sitting on right now. I feel really comfortable in predicting you are not sitting on a narrow flat wooded plank. I'll go so far as to bet you've got some padding and some sort of back support too to make your life easier as you read this post.

I have been toying with the idea of keeping the time proven functional design of the chevalet but replacing the seat plank with a simple adjustable pneumatic secretary chair with the legs removed, sitting on a small narrow plank instead of the wide plank seat and down in line with the bottom plank. Vertical holes could be drilled in the top of the narrow plank and into the lower beam so as to allow the chair post to be moved in/out to allow different users leg lengths. All the other adjustment for seat height and back support-to-seat placement functions would be kept available as originally designed by the manufacturer.

At the very least I would think this style of setup would be more comfortable to work at for extended periods of time. Better yet at some of these marquetry schools I've been toying about attending, this would approach an easily adjustable "one-size-fits-all" machine for very little additional cost to build the original chevalet.

I will admit as I am thinking about what this would look like, it most likely take this machine out of the "fine art" class of chevalet's I have seen on LJ and elsewhere with an inexpensive "big-borg" store desk chair. But I expect it would be very comfortable to work on for an extended project.

Thoughts and comments?

Dave


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## tinnman65

I agree with you on it being hard siting on a small plank that is why I added a padded seat to mine I'm not the least bit sorry I did Its very comfortable but I think your idea would take it a step further,


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## shipwright

Welcome aboard Dave. You can make the seat any way you like as long as you get the critical measurement (seat to blade, vertically) right. My first effort had a wide wooden seat as an add on but I have discarded it in favor of a simple widening of the seat board. I find it quite comfortable and I've been by 21 three times too.

The way I build them there is room to adjust the height after construction so its not the end of the world if you change something later. I think originally by the time a marqueteur built his own chevy he had enough experience on them to know exactly the size that suited him. With us here, not so much unless you've been to ASFM or know someone who has one (and have put in enough hours to know).

Certainly a cushion would hurt nothing. I suspect that if you had a seat back it wouldn't get much use. I like to stretch every several minutes by grabbing the top of the post and leaning way back. It feels great but I couldn't do it if my seat had a back.


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## stefang

I haven't any experience with the chevalet yet, but I do like sitting on my simple wooden round seat stools when I have to sit to work. They are easy to sit down on and easy to get up from. I can think this would be similar for the chevalet. If you want to adjust your sitting position or distance from the main post you just slide back or forth. A padded seat would make this more difficult. Another point is that a wooden seat doesn't make you sweaty in warm weather like a padded one would. It seems to me that you have a very good sitting/working position while using the chevy. My neck and back get really tired bending over while using my scroll saw, but you sit straight on the chevy while working. That has got to be good for me at almost 74 years old. Anyway, I will find out pretty soon.


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## dbray45

I too have been looking at Paul's drawings and am in the beginning stages of building one. I have been toying with different styles of seats to put on mine. It seems that once you get the mechanics right, the rest is left up to you to make as you see fit - one of the great things of making your own equipment.


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## stefang

Yes, David. I think there must be quite a bit of latitude to make changes, even very basic ones. As more folks build these I can imagine some inventive person coming up with a different design before too long.


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## N6DSW

Question for you Paul. And I thought this might be interesting for others. So I'm posting it here instead of a private message so we can all learn.

Seems to me that somewhere I read (I can't seem to find where), that you found a self adjusting linear bearing that would allow for slight misalignment in the "parallel(ness)" of the rack. Do you have a P/N and source so I can research and order up a set?

Actually a list of the whole bearing arm hardware assembly set would be helpful for those of us that are rolling their own from scratch and need to purchase all the odd metal bits.

Thanks,

Dave


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## shipwright

I think this is the link you are looking for. Use a piece of 3/8" stainless round bar for the sliding rod.
Everything else I used was from HD metal bin. It's just steel round bar, square bar and square tubing.
If you read my blogs (look for the updates) and look at the sketchup, it's pretty easy to figure out.


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## shipwright

The part # for 3/8" is KARI-06.


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## dbray45

I just bought a pair of them. Really nice find.


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## stefang

I've been working on my Chevalet, maybe not as much as I would like, but it is progressing along. I still haven't glued anything together yet except for the vertical piece to the saw frame support. I will start sanding all the parts when I finish the last couple of pieces tomorrow (I hope). The Saw frame and blade holders come after that. As you can see from the photo, the seat is pretty wide. About 11-1/2" dia. I based it on the size of my shop stools and it feels very comfortable after a test sit, but I will have to see if it stays that way in actual use. Please excuse the really messy shop. Getting the Chevy finished has been prioritized in favor of cleaning up (easy choice for me).


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## tinnman65

Looks great Mike, There will always be time to clean up your shop. Now get back to work and get that chevy finished


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## stefang

Amen to that Paul!


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## shipwright

Now is the time for mess Mike. When you are cutting marquetry is not. Then the floor should be meticulously clean to aid in finding that (those) tiny piece(s) that just kind of exploded out of your fingers. Enjoy the chaos while you can!

The chevy looks great….... I'm going to be a chevy grandpa again…... way cool.


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## stefang

Yes Paul. Your marquetry family is rapidly expanding, all thanks to your generosity in sharing your Chevy design and your skills. My main worry now is being able to cope with the delicate veneer once I get started. I hope I will be up to the task. Heck, I can lose large tools in my shop, not to talk about itty bitty pieces of veneer! But as the say, the thrill is in the chase. If I were younger and didn't mind traveling I would surely attend the marquetry school, but that's just not a practical proposition for me. I'm pretty sure that quite a few of your other disciples will though. The rebirth of marquetry among woodworkers is an exciting prospect and I hope the general public will take to it as well.


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## Sodabowski

Wow guys, that chevalet repro business keeps on flourishing!


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## tinnman65

Mike you might consider the dvd's by Paul Schurch as an option if you can't get to a class. He cuts his marquetry using a scroll saw but there is a lot of good information on them including packet cutting and sand shading. Marc Adams has a great video but as he uses the double bevel method it is not as conducive to the chevy but again it has a lot of good information on it. I don't know of any instructional videos using the chevy but maybe someone else may. I go to Marc Adams school once a year and missed the class Patrick gave there and was disappointed to see it wasn't offered this year but I'm holding out that he will return


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## stefang

Good suggestion Paul, thanks!. I have in fact read some articles in FWW mag. by Paul Schurch, one on packet cutting. I've also got two great marquetry books, one by William Lincoln and the other by Pierre Ramond for guidance. Right now I'm mostly worried about correctly preparing and working with those delicate veneers, not to mention using the Chevy correctly to get good results. All in all quite a bit of new stuff to learn in the beginning and then a whole lot more to learn moving forward. Of course all that is an important part of the fun, but I have to admit that I always get a little apprehensive before starting something new.


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## shipwright

Mike, here's a link to a few photos of making a packet that I did for someone else. It may help.


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## stefang

Thanks for the link Paul. I do have a question for you about the Chevy. I cut out the back clamp board today making it 3/8" thick between the top and bottom 3/4" ends like your Sketchup plan specifies. I thought it would bend some by hand, but it was totally stiff. Would that be normal or is my maple just not flexible enough? My thought was to screw it down first so It can be tested before gluing it in permanently. Alternatively I could make it thinner until it gets somewhat flexible. What do you think?


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## MikeLingenfelter

When I made my "clamp board" I couldn't really bend it by hand either, but it easily moved when I attached it and used the pressure roller and foot pedal.

Mike


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## shipwright

I don't glue them in Mike. I embed threaded brass insert nuts in the seat front and run machine screws through the clamp and into the nuts. Then the spring can be replaced or adjusted any time. Have a look at the assembly video I sent you. Mine are oak so the bending stiffness may be different. As a boat builder when I think of bending, I think of oak. ..... Go figure.


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## stefang

Thanks Paul, sounds sensible with the inserts, and oak is certainly a very bendable wood.


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## stefang

Thanks Mike. I feel better about it already. I bought some threaded inserts to attach the clamp board Paul suggested and I will give it a try before I thin it out more. Man that maple is really hard stuff, but it works well enough. The maple sawdust from my bandsaw looks more like metal granules than dust and the shavings from my hand planes and drill press dry into really hard curls. I have also cut fingers a few time on the planed edges.


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## MikeLingenfelter

Mike - I used Beech for mine and couldn't bend it over knee. I thought I would have to thin it out more too. Once I used it with the pressure roller it moved surprisingly easily. I didn't glue mine, I only used wood screws and it seems to be saying put. Threaded inserts sounds like a good idea, I can easily add those to mine.

Mike


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## stefang

That pressure roller must exert quite a bit of pressure Mike. I have some nice dry beach which is from a 30 year Danish made dining table we replaced. I saved all the solid wood components and I plan to make the saw frame from some of it. I haven't made anything with beach before, so it should be interesting to see how it is to work with.


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## tinnman65

I just read that Patrick Edwards has won the American Period Furniture Makers Cartouche Award. Congratulations Patrick your an inspiration to us all!!!


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## rustynails

I second the congratulations Patrick on the award as well.

Richard


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## stefang

I third that!


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## Sodabowski

Um, waw, not sure how to say that but I'm in the congratz wagon too!


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## shipwright

Patrick talks about the experience in his blog here. You can sign in and offer your congratulations there. I'm not sure how often he reads this thread. 
Personally I think it is a well deserved award and feel very lucky to have been able to attend ASFM and get to know him a little. I am also thankful that he takes the time to teach people like us some of the knowledge he has accumulated over his career.

Bravo Patrick !!!


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## FredRoman

Its Feb 12, 2014 and I am back at Patrick Edwards school of American School of French Marquetry. As usual Patrick and Patrice are amazing and so helpful. I am happy to see a group who make pictures in wood. I was told about the group today and I am happy to find it.

FR


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## FredRoman

Its Feb 12, 2014 and I am back at Patrick Edwards school of American School of French Marquetry. As usual Patrick and Patrice are amazing and so helpful. I am happy to see a group who make pictures in wood. I was told about the group today and I am happy to find it.

FR


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## shipwright

I wish I was there too. Tell those two I'm having withdrawals.
I"d say enjoy yourself, .... but I know you are.


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## N6DSW

Food for thought.

I was looking for something else on Youtube and ran across a video by Adam Savage of "Mythbuster's" fame, who interviewed a maker of High-Tec coping saw.

Long story short, at the 6:35-ish point they start talking about a prototype light weight "portable" Chevy using I believe aluminum or titanium trusses for the arms for extreme strength/stiffness while being very light weight. Interesting meld of an old school tool design but updated with high tech materials. (The maker's description of the traditional Chevy at 800 lbs however is a bit over the top.)

Not that any of us could ever afford this if they ever started selling these. But the whole video is interesting and gives one a chance to think "What if?".

I'm not knocking the traditional way of making a chevy (As some of you know I'm starting on one now.) But it is nice to see how some gifted engineer- types really are thinking outside the box to possibly solve weaknesses and improve designs.

Dave


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## tinnman65

Dave I think this was posted before but as there are 170+ post's no one would blame you for missing it. I watched it again because it is a good video but an 800lb chevy? Whats that made from, some very dence wood.
I am curious how they are making out on this project. He does make a good point about a chevy not being a very portable tool


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## WPatrick

Just today, in class, I was talking about Knew concepts and their efforts to make a chevy. Then this video appeared. The whole thing started when I had a booth in Pasadena across from Knew and commented on their coping saw design. I said that it would be interesting if they could make a chevy using their technology. I had my doubts that fancy metal and CAD technology could replace wood…but Brian insisted he could do it.

Now, a year later he has abandoned the "Eiffel Tower" design you see in the video. He is researching using carbon fibre technology, like bicycles. He might have more luck with a tubular structure. Not sure. I still like wood.

As to the "800" pound gorilla in the room, not a chance. That is something that they made up. In fact, a typical chevy only weighs about 100 pounds or less, when made of beech, oak or ash. What makes it hard to move is that it is awkward. However, with a 700 pound worker the chevy could weigh 800 pounds.


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## stefang

I can see them coming up with a workable and portable design, but I can't see how they could enjoy commercial success with it considering the cost of even simple carbon fiber bicycle frames today which is the closest analogy to a CF Chevalet I can think of.


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## shipwright

It's my chevalet birthday. I finished my first chevalet exactly three years ago. It's hard to believe it has only been that long. I counted over forty marquetry pieces I've done on either it or chevy II in Canada. I still can't wait to cut something new and I still get more out of it than any other tool in my shop. 
I highly recommend the chevalet to anyone who wants to pursue marquetry.


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## JR45

Paul, 
Joyeux Anniversaire! Many thanks for the generous sharing of your experience and everything relating to chevalet. I, for one, have learned much from your postings and continue to be a great admirer of your work.
Jim


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## jmartel

Without you posting about it on here, I never would have known about the Chevalet, Paul. So, thanks to you for that. Still need to build one. Hopefully I will get around to it shortly. I need to build a few other shop stuff so I can get the garage more organized and have more free space to fit it though.


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## apprentice

I am one for innovation but titanium is a little over kill for a Chevy my plywood version is a much better option unless one wants the furniture looks and lumbago, only kidding.

I have a 3D cad set of drawings that anyone is welcome to free if they want to make a very robust and much lighter version of the vintage beast, in tests it has performed very well, and costs around a 100 bucks to make, the Chevy is good and nearly as good as the vertical donkey version I first made three years ago.

You can see this vertical version here, http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xy3nnh_hands-cavan-cabinetmakers-no-11-1980_lifestyle#.UYQPb1VwZy0

This design gives you two hand freedom and a better support for heavier work.

There is as the saying goes many ways to skin a cat and the plywood version is a good option.


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## jmartel

Those of you who built with construction grade lumber, do you recall about how much you spent on everything? I might have a need to build sooner than I planned.


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## tinnman65

I didn't use construction grade lumber but I can tell you I started with a piece of maple 4.5" X 9" X 12'which was almost enough to build the whole thing. So I you buy a couple of 2X10X12' (Lowes $15.50 a piece) and laminate a couple pieces together for the thicker parts your wood cost should be relatively cheep and if you made a cut list you might even figure a way to use 2X4 stock and save even more.The hardware will probably cost more then the wood. I guess that depends on if you plan to buy all the hardware or shop fab some of the parts the way Paul (shipwright) showed on his blog. Good luck your definitely at the right place for any help building one, I have received a lot of help from the people on this forum.


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## N6DSW

While not directly Chevy-making related, I have a marquetry related question for those who sand shade. Since I do not know of another discussion group on marquetry I'd like to ask here. What grit size are you using? (Beyond saying "it's beach sand size".)

I watched in a old 1980's video where the marquertier was using SiC. I went on Amazon and searched "Silicon Carbide Powder" , and (not surprisingly) Amazon came back with around as half-dozen grades of grit. From 54 to 1000 grit in size. Since it isn't all that cheap when you add in shipping, I'd like to get the size right first time without blindly guessing.

Bigger is better? Smaller is better? Any recommendations?

Dave


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## shipwright

Fine is best IMHO. I use a very fine sand sold in pet stores as something like lizard sand. Be careful not to get the tinted stuff. It works well for me.


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## stefang

*Paul* Congratulations on your third year Chevy anniversary. You have accomplished quite a lot of fine work in the last 3 years and I'm looking forward to many more outstanding marquetry works from you.

*Dave* I followed Paul's advice and purchased 'reptile sand' from a local pet store. It is very inexpensive, pure white, very clean and the grit size seems ideal for shading purposes, although I have yet to try it out.

I haven't been doing much on my chevy build yet, but I spent a couple of hours in the shop last week towards that end. I'm back in shape now, so I hope to finish up the build in the next couple of weeks. I just hope I get a chance to use it before the Fall because my wife has already planned a lot of garden work which I'm invited (ok, forced) to help with. It goes without saying that I am hoping for a very wet Spring.


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## stefang

I'm finally back in the shop working full days. My Chevy is way overdue, but pretty close to completion now. I made the saw frame today and the glue is curing. Here's a photo of it. Not very interesting, but I just want to post something to celebrate actually getting something done. Also a photo of progress on my Chevy in case you missed my progress blog on it. After the saw frame is finished the next task will be to make the saw blade clamps.


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## shipwright

A beautiful kinetic sculpture Mike….. and I understand they are useful too…... bonus.
It all looks great.


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## Sodabowski

Quite sculptural indeed. And very inspiring. I really need to spare some time and start building one!


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## stefang

Yes Paul, it will probably be a sculpture until next Fall. They seem to multiply like rabbits. Unfortunately I am not seeing much marquetry work from them being posted on LJ except for your projects.

*Sodabowski* Just take the first step of buying the materials and soon you will be at it.


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## jmartel

I took the first step by pricing hardware on McMaster Carr last night. Does that count? So far it's up to $75 before shipping. Not too bad, and that includes extra stuff that is only sold in packs of a larger number than I need.


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## shipwright

What hardware are you pricing? The bearings are under $10 and you can get everything else you need at the hardware store for not much more.


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## dbray45

I bought the nuts and bolts from Tractor Supply. I bought some square brass stock and that cost me a bit but I bought different sized pieces to use on different projects.


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## jmartel

Well, this is everything needed, meaning I won't have to go to the hardware store.

Shaft, bearings, 3/8" threaded rod, 1/2" sq tubing, 3/8" square bar, 3/8"x7" bolts, wing nuts, wood screw hanger studs, washers, chain, etc.


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## shipwright

Hey, the important thing is you are on your way. 
The whole will be worth a lot more than the sum of the parts no matter what you pay for them. 
Keep us posted and good luck on the build.


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## jmartel

Do you remember how much you paid for everything or a rough estimate? I can't see Home Depot being any cheaper on hardware, let alone having some of these things (like the shaft/bearings). Any money I can save is good. I was going to check ebay before I bought anything as that's where I've gotten shafts and bearings from before.


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## shipwright

These are the bearings I use. They are cheap and you can use a standard ss shaft, no need for a precision ground one. The square bar and tubing and bolts etc all came fro Ace Hardware and didn't amount to much either.
The bearings are the critical part and two of them come to $9.72. I just checked.


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## jmartel

This is what I have so far:

3/8"x24" Hardened Steel Shaft $12.39
2×3/8" Steel Ball Joint Rod End $7.56 total
1/2"x1/2"x3' Square tube $5.23
3/8" x 2' Threaded Rod $1.77
18-8 Stainless Steel Wood Screw Hanger Stud, 1/4"-20 Nut End, 3" Overall Length, packs of 10 $7.78
3/8"x3/8"x1' Steel Bar $2.78
3/8" Carriage Bolt, pack of 10 $8.45
3/8" Wing Nut, Pack of 50 $11.14
3/8" Washer, pack of 100 $5.74
5' of Chain, $6.65

Total before shipping $69.49. Shipping will probably be about $6-10 at most.

Obviously I don't need 100 washers or 50 wing nuts on this project, but I figured I'd keep them on hand or I'd remove them and buy less at the hardware store.


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## shipwright

Looks good, I didn't keep very accurate track. I may well have paid more than I think. I picked things up a few at time.


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## stefang

*JMartel* I hope you are aware that you need longer carriage bolts for connecting the main foot column to the seat than for the 4 bolts on the beam clamp. No big deal, but good to know.

Your outlay for such a great tool is pretty minimal regardless. If you were to buy a Chevalet it would cost you about $2,000. I have about $300 invested in mine and that is probably a lot more than Paul used on his, but very reasonable for such a great tool anyway.


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## jmartel

Oh I know that, Mike. It was more of an exercise on estimating how much it would run. I'd buy the bolts/nuts/washers at Home Depot or a local hardware store so I can get smaller quantities anyway.


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## WPatrick

I know that a lot of you are building these tools and I am so pleased at this post and Paul, among others who are promoting such a unique tool.

As to the hardware, I want to point out that I have been selling "kits" for the past 15 years, which include full scale blueprints and all the metal hardware necessary to build the chevalet. Most of the stuff is standard hardware, which you can easily find, but takes a bit of time to assemble. However, the special custom made items, like the sliding rod system, pressure plate and tempered blade clamps, I have made to order by a professional machinist. I order a dozen kits at a time, so I can get the price down.

If you want to see the kit, go to my blog at wpatrickedwards.blogspot.com and search "chevalet."

I have sold over 5 dozen kits in the past decade, so I know that the Chevalet is no longer a secret.


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## rustynails

I got one of Patrick's kits and am very happy that I did. They are a bit pricey but well worth it in my book and I am glad I went that way instead of shopping part by part. The blue prints are very easy to work off of and the hardware in top quality, not to mention if you buy from Patrick he is only a phone call away with assembly questions. But to each their own.

Rusty nails / Richard


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## jmartel

Patrick,

While I would love to be able to buy one of your kits, I cannot spend $550 on it right now. My woodworking budget for personal projects is basically nil since my wife is out of work and we have plenty of student loans to take care of.

My current plan is to make a cheap one when I get the chance, and later make myself a nice one out of hardwood and better quality hardware.


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## stefang

I tried making similar saw frame bearing brackets like in Paul (Shipwritghts) Chevy plans. My brackets were attached directly to the upper steel rod unlike Paul's which has a square pipe fitted over it to give a good grab to the brackets. They seemed to work ok just sliding the saw frame back and forth, but when I tried sawing the brackets slipped on the rod and got out of line with each other. I guess Paul figured this would happen and when I told him that I couldn't fine a suitable square pipe anywhere he kindly designed and sent me a simple, good solution.

I made the suggested part and it worked like a charm. I was worried it wouldn't look too good, but after getting it installed I don't think it's so bad and it made my chevy a little unique. After installing it I made some jaws for the clamp and did a keyhole test cut to see how everything was lined up. It was perfect first time. I still need to do the clamp wheels and a few other things before every things finished. Here are a couple of photos of the new set-up.



















I also have a question about appropriate saw blades for the chevy. I have a lot of 2/0 blades I use on my scroll saw. They are reverse tooth type blades. Will they work on my chevy?


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## shipwright

Good to see it worked out for you Mike. There's a saying in golf, "It's not a video. It's a number on a card." If it works then it is beautiful. Very exciting that you are this close. I just can't see you being able to put off cutting until the fall. You'll find some time somewhere.
As for the blades, chevalet cutting should all be on the push stroke so I'd say yes to the 2/0 but not so much to the reverse tooth format. That doesn't mean you can't use them to get familiar with the feel of the saw but you will want "all one direction" teeth for actual marquetry.


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## JR45

Mike
You might want to try these blades from Niqua in Germany. http://www.niqua-shop.de/pebeco-mm-holzlaubsaegeblaetter-m4306 I got hold of some for myself and Paul last year. When my Chevalet is up and running they will be the blade of choice.
Jim


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## stefang

Many thanks for that great solution Paul. So true about beauty. I remember as a teenager my parents had some visitors who drove a VW Beetle. I thought it was the ugliest car on earth, but they loaned it to me for the weekend and after driving it for awhile it became beautiful!

I suspected that the reverse tooth blades wouldn't work well. I used a regular, though larger blade for the keyhole test. I had the jaws just carpet taped to the clamp for the test. They have to be tapered a little still and I will have to get the height right. The sawing height feels a little uncomfortable for me, so I may have to do an adjustment to the seat height, maybe at firm pad or something.


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## stefang

Thanks for the tip Jim. All of my current scroll saw blades are Niqua, but reverse tooth style. I will be buying the one direction blade from them as you suggest.


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## stefang

Sorry, double post.


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## stefang

Here is an article from one of our Norwegian news papers which I was on the net today. Sorry about the text being unreadable to most of you, but the marquetry work pictured was created by Kjetil Harket and it is a copy of a famour historic cabinet that was first produced in 1944. I think he did a fabulous job on it. The project took about 1/2 of a work year. I hope you enjoy seeing it.

http://www.aftenposten.no/bolig/Svenneproven-hans-tok-1052-timer-a-lage--7530708.html#.U0Q2HV5H1Cg


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## JR45

Beautiful piece of work. Google translate produces readable version. Thanks for posting. 
Jim


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## MNedman

Mike, congrats on getting your chevy up and going, I think you have produced a very fine looking and very much workable machine. Can't wait to see what you cut with it. You will definitely want to go with the blades suggested by Jim and Paul, they work great. I think the hangar solution that Paul suggested is a very elegant one and will work just fine.

The only other suggestion I have is I noticed that in one of your pics your saw frame does not appear to be sitting level. You will want to adjust your arm height so that your saw frame is sitting parallel to the floor when the saw blade is sitting in the bottom of the V in the jaws. This will be important because it will allow you to get a feel for how much of the saw frames weight you will need to support in order to control the speed of the cut.

Again, congratulations on producing a really nice tool.


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## Bogeyguy

what do it do??? seriously.


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## shipwright

It is a marquetry saw.
There are videos in post #32. 
A video is worth ten thousand words.


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## stefang

Thanks Mathew. I adjusted the main arm to the lowest position in the clamp after that photo was taken. The saw frame is level now and is working perfect with the elegant solution Paul came up with. The wheels have been mounted on the clamp mechanism and the saw frame knob is mounted too. That leaves only the wedges and the saw frame support to finish up. When those are done, I plan to do a practice marquetry project dreamed up by Paul to get acquainted with the whole marquetry process. after that I will be sanding and finishing the Chevy. I am more than satisfied with the performance and appearance of it, all thanks to Paul.

I am very pleased that the Chevy doesn't overlap my scroll saw. They both excel at certain things and I expect to get a lot of use out of both in the future. Here are a couple of photos of some of my first cuts. I think these cuttings show how well the Chevy works, not the user. I'm hoping to get better!


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## stefang

Ok Mathew, I see what you mean now. I will have to actually raise the arm a little with a spacer to make the saw frame parallel with the floor.


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## shipwright

Wait until you are sure you know what size suits you the best Mike. The height is mostly about where the notch is relative to the seat. You may have to lower the sacrificial jaws a bit or raise them. Then adjust the arm so it is close to parallel with the floor. 
I find that I don't cut low in the notch much but actually higher up. You want to find where you are most comfortable cutting and then set it up. The main difference the saw frame angle will make is that the teeth point straight down from a horizontal saw frame. If the left end of the saw is high you will cut slightly to the left and vice versa. It isn't too important if the angle isn't too great.
Congrats on the build, it looks great.


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## stefang

I felt that the saw was way to high with the beam at the top of the arm clamp. It is now in it's lowest position and feels about right. Instead of wedges I put some spaces cut to fit. The beam is tight on the bottom and the spacers are tight on the top. After getting this done I found that the saw no longer cut 90 degrees. The rod that is held by the saw frame is about 2mm higher on one side than the other. This must be due to the drilled hole in the saw frame brackets being slightly out of line. I will have to enlarge the hole a bit and shim it. I hope that will do the trick. The saw is parallel now, so no worries there. These small corrections take a little time to identify and then fix, but it's well worth the extra effort.


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## stefang

I'm planning on making a batch of liquid hide glue that I can use right out of the bottle. I think it will be handy to have on hand when I need a longer open time for a glue-up or I don't want to bother cooking hot hide glue. Another benefit would be to eliminate PVA glue to avoid the dried, invisible blotches of it I always find when I apply finish to my projects.

I am also wondering if liquid hide glue can be used for laying marquetry and/or veneering. I realized that a veneer press would have to be used, but I'm wondering if it would actually work. Hammer veneering is probably still the best option for my small projects, but I still think the idea is worth exploring, Any opinions?


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## shipwright

Liquid hide glue works great for marquetry and veneering, but yes, it needs to be pressed. 
If you are thinking of hammer veneering your marquetry though …... don't.
Use HHG or LHG in a press or you'll have all kinds of little pieces stuck to your hammer and everything else.
(Don't make me tell you how I know)


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## stefang

Thanks Paul. Good news for me. I wasn't actually thinking about hammer veneering marquetry, but I will be veneering some of my projects, boxes and such.

I have about 1hr. of sanding left on my chevy. I'll be finishing it up tomorrow and then I plan seal it with diluted hot hide glue as a sealer coat (7% glue, 93% water) and then cuff sand and stain it on Saturday. I'm using an oil based stain. I plan to do some trial staining first on some maple scrap that has also been sealed. I've heard that maple can blotch pretty easy so that is why I'm sealing it. I'm sure happy the sanding is almost done! I will probably use 2 or 3 coats polyurethane for the topcoat.


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## SCOTSMAN

I had no idea what you were talking, about till shipwright posted a picture or two of what I have always called an italian veneer saw posibly also called a donkey saw???? I think it can be called.Question are they cool to use I have only seen one or two in an old woodworking monthly from about decade ago.I would love to see if anyone has plans .What are the advantages of this design? I know they are for marquetry etc, or that's what I remember them from.Please keep in touch with this site or continue with this ,as I would love to know more, regarding this type of saw. Alistair


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## stefang

Hi Alistair, Check out Shipwright's blogs here showing the different types of work possible with the Chevalet. He also did a lot of blogs on the build which you can access from his home page.


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## N6DSW

Hi All,

Been too quite around here lately. So I thought I'd mix it up. (again)

A while back I tossed out an idea in the form here for a little more "creature comforts" in using a chevy for a long (think hours) at a time. My idea at the time was to replace the 12" x 10" plank folks use on the original chevy's to sit on, with a more comfortable lightweight padded task chair.

I started to hit up the weekly flea market a few city blocks away, but after several weeks I came up empty handed. Though I did score a very nice used (think thick - old school) heavy 10" cast iron skillet for hot sand shading for $5 USD. Lots of steady thermal mass once it is heated up!

As I was getting desperate for a chair so I can start re-engineering Shipwright's Sketch-up design, I was literally driving to the local Walmart to buy a new el-cheapo task chair for about $60. But I stopped on the way at this used office furniture place in town. I have heard this guy's advertisements for years. (Think of the worst most obnoxious used car salesman ads. His are more so.) I was expecting over-priced worn out junk. So I never even considered him. But I stopped in and told the salesperson I was looking for a simple task desk chair preferably with a broken base. Believe it or not she had a used high-end secretary chair in the back that looked brand new with NO VISIBLE WEAR anywhere, but it had a blown pneumatic cylinder so it would not rise up.

Putting on my best poker face I asked her "OK how much?" When she said $19 out the door, I couldn't get the money out of my pocket fast enough!! (It listed new for $250-$350 USD depending on the fabric and accessories.)

So now I am the owner of a comfortable padded seat with much needed back support for my backside on my (future) chevy.










Now that I have the chair, I can start measuring the chair (and my) measurements so I can sit comfortably in the chair, rest my feet on the horizontal beam and have the saw blade at the proper height in my case, foot to seat height of 19" (48 cm) and seat to blade height of 26" (64 cm).

I struggled for two weeks trying to imagine a strong frame that would support the increased torque from a chair on a post instead of just a simple plank. I tried several ideas but at last settled on a simple design that incorporated mortise and tenon joints throughout for lateral strength and using thick wide lumber.










This .jpg is a quick AutoCAD view of Paul's Sketchup design and my version drawn in 3D so I can re-engineer and try out ideas in AutoCAD before I start wasting wood on an untried design. if the part is in grey it is stock from Paul's design. If it in another color I changed it from the original.

I have received all the hardware (18-8 stainless throughout) from McMaster-Carr this week and will be going by my hardwood dealer on Tuesday to pick up the lumber. I'm thinking maple planks if I can get it, or ash as an alternate.

Dave


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## shipwright

It's good to see you getting underway. I have no problem with changes to the design at all. Whatever works for you.

That said however, as I have said before, the greatest marqueteurs in history developed these devices and aside from the introduction of technology they didn't have access to (self aligning plastic bearings etc.) we will be hard pressed to improve on their work IMHO.

My personal feeling about the seat is that it will make getting on and off a lot more difficult for little gain. I can't imagine cutting accurately while leaning back on a seat back either, but that's just me.

Good luck in your build. Keep us posted.


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## stefang

Hi Dave, I think if you must have a seat with a back then this looks like a solid alternative. I also have serious back problems so I know what a problem it can be.

My main reservations against your solution (after having used my own Chevy for a short period) are the same as Paul's. Getting on and off with your design will be much like mounting a bicycle, but even worse with the wide seat. You will also have to get that seat situated perfect and pretty close to the clamp post arm for a comfortable sitting position, which will in turn exasperate getting on and off even more. If you don't get it close enough your arms will get tired very fast. I don't have weak arms and it takes me just a couple of minutes sitting too far back for them to get over-tired. As soon as I slide forward, almost up to the clamp arm post with my arms close to my body, the fatigue ceases.

Please don't take this criticism as dumping on your idea. I just want to be helpful and hopefully save you some aggravation. If you haven't built your Chevy yet, IMHO trying one out would (if you haven't already) give you much more insight than just looking at the plan.

One thing I did to increase comfort was to make my seat wider. At 12" it is the same diameter as my shop stools, which I find very comfortable. I Had to add 'wings' to do this and the difference from just sitting on the thin plank was huge, even though I do not have a big bum. Anyway, whatever you decide to do, I hope it will be successful and work well for you. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with. Good luck with your build!


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## shipwright

Cheeks you say Mike? Yes, a wider seat is a lot more comfortable. I added these to my first one a couple of years ago instead of the add-on one I made originally.


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## DanKrager

I've been lurking here because I'm a wannabe. Someday…
Sharing an experience I had with my scroll saw. Same situation with seat and injured back. A backed seat (like a chair) did not work for me. Like Mike said, it let me too far away and my legs and machinery wouldn't let me get closer, comfortably. One day I was visiting with a friend and sitting on the stool "backwards", with my chest leaning on the chair back. Serendipity! After a while I noticed that my back was good and it was very comfortable to lean forward against the back. So the next time I sawed, I turned the chair around and leaned forward against the back and it was very comfortable for a long time. One caveat I learned, the back has to be narrower than most chair backs because it can interfere with arm movement. Check to see how much space is between your arms when you "pretend" work at the saw; not just stationary, but moving things about, turning the stuff etc.

So, having said all that, here's an idea. Build the standard seat, maybe wider like Mike said, and add an attachment to it…a padded and adjustable post against which you can lean (forward) to take the strain off your back. Perhaps a bit of a T like bar at the top. Perhaps a wedge shaped pillow under your butt to get better support leaning forward. It won't interfere with getting on and off. Just holding your head up can cause strain, too, if your back is sensitive to that, so one might consider making it tall enough to rest your chin, if not constantly, here and there for relief change. Tall, narrow, thickly padded, perhaps adjustable, and removable. Like me, your back might get better once acclimated.

Just a thought.
DanK


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## stefang

*Paul* I didn't realize you had done this, honestly, but it is in fact almost identical to mine. I said 'wings' not cheeks. I try hard to not be too cheeky.

*Dan* Actually sounds like a good concept. Whether or not it would fit onto a Chevy would have to be determined.


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## Magnum

*shipwright:*

Plus all you other Ding Dongs …OOPS! Members 8-}

I've had these Pictures on my Computer in the "Old Hand Tools" file for about 3 years now. The reason I kept them was the one Full Picture of The Machine itself. Beautiful Piece Of Workmanship!

I have them labeled as "Chevalet" but the more I look at them, it looks like She's doing Needlepoint? You Guys will know for sure, I Guess …LOL..

I just thought I'd drop by "The Chevalet Clubhouse" and contribute a little something.

The Previous Pictures were Very Dark and way out of Focus. I did the Best I could bringing them to a Decent View.

GOOD THREAD You Guys!





































My Regards: Rick


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## shipwright

That certainly looks like a veneer packet, taped on the edges with veneer tape just like I do mine but it looks like she has an actual picture glued on the front as opposed to line drawings of the motif or parts. She's definitely cutting marquetry though, not needlepoint. Do you have any further source info? Who is she?

Thanks for posting.


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## Magnum

Paul:

Sorry. No I don't. Can't even remember where I got the Pic from.

You're Welcome.

Rick


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## jmartel

This is the article that you got them from:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/newsletters/Woodworking/4/5/article2.htm

Looks like she is the author of the article and her name is Amanda Salmon.


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## stefang

I found it interesting that Amanda Salmon was using a picture instead of a line drawing. When I started my Chinese dragon marquetry I used a line drawing based on the original artwork. I guess my line drawing wasn't very good because I soon turned to using the original art instead and I actually found that much better. I wouldn't recommend using this method because of it's obvious drawbacks, but it might be ok sometimes depending on the nature of the artwork. That was quite a good Chevalet article, even mentioning the possibility of bevel cutting.


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## WPatrick

I can answer the question about the photos of Amanda. The American School of French Marquetry had a furniture conservator, James Hay, from the Canadian Conservation Institute many years ago. He then purchased a kit from me and made this tool for their use. The article link above by jmartel tells the story.

The project was the restoration of a marquetry top that was damaged in a fire. The object is a Victorian sewing work table. She has removed the piece of veneer from the damaged top and is cutting in the repairs.

This is a good example of a chevalet built with the plans and hardware from the school, ASFM. We are looking forward to more classes in two weeks with a full class of students. Currently we have 8 chevalets in different sizes.


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## Magnum

HEY!

Good Stuff You Guys! "Jmartel" Obviously Your Correct. Lee Valley has a lot of interesting Articles on Many Things.

I subscribe to their Newsletter and there's always something there that Peeks My Interest.

I'm pleased that I at least started something that might impart a little more Knowledge/Interest for your "Chevalet Clubhouse".

Rock On ALL: Rick


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## stefang

Has anyone else had this problem with their Chevalet?

After reassembling my Chevalet after finishing, I had to make sure everything was lined up the same and I did a keyhole test to make sure. It passed keyhole test, but I did have one really vexing problem. The saw cut diagonally from left to right. To get a straight cut I would have to hold the workpiece at an angle to compensate.

I never was able to find the cause. The saw frame is level and my blade clamps are vertical. Nevertheless I do think the problem must have something to do with either the saw frame, the square holes the blade clamps are housed in(my main suspect), or the blade clamps themselves (or maybe all three). This might require making a new saw frame. I did a very stupid thing when I made my saw frame. After cutting out the arms of the frame I drilled the holes for the blade clamps on my drill press. I'm quite sure they were accurate and in line with one another. The stupid part is that I forgot to square the blade clamp holes before gluing up the frame. Doing that after the fact made squaring up difficult and may well have resulted in some inaccuracies.

I may eventually have to build a new saw frame and I might even do new blade clamps if necessary, but I did come up with a temporary solution that worked very well in the meanwhile. I simply gave the blade a slight twist with some needle nose pliers at each end of the blade to orient it correctly. I ran my fingers alongside both sides of the blade and they felt the same, not as before when I could feel the teeth more on inside than on the outside.


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## shipwright

You are not alone Mike. I've had this problem a lot. I've had it on both my chevys and I've had it on Patrick's at the school. It seems to happen when the blade is getting dull. I start out with the blade cutting straight down and with use it starts to cut progressively to the right. I use it as a sign that it's time to change blades.
As I remember, Mat has had the same thing happen. I asked about it at the school but I'll be damned if I can remember what answer I got. Maybe Patrick will help us out.

In the mean time, try a new blade.


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## stefang

Thanks for your reply Paul. The blade is new. Your experience makes me wonder if it doesn't have something to do with the machining of the blades. The tweak idea did work very well and if I have to do it for the rest of my life it's no big problem. I am very happy now and looking forward to doing our little project at the first opportunity. It's kind of a relief to know that I'm not the only one that has had this problem. Maybe my work wasn't as bad as I thought!

I forgot to add that I had also rounded the end of the saw frame arms before the glue up, so I didn't have a proper reference for the squaring work either. I make a lot of silly mistakes like that when I get all excited about getting a project finished. Childlike, but not very craftsmanlike.


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## stefang

I had a heck of a time threading the blade through a hole in the workpiece on my Chevy before finding out that I could just keep the workpiece all the way at the secured end of the blade while tightening the other end. I must be pretty dense to not have figured this out straight away. I ruined a new blade on my first attempt trying to hold the workpiece in the clamp. Lots of little things to learn. I haven't had time to get started on a marquetry piece yet, still just doing some practice cuts here and there.


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## tinnman65

I have a question concerning finishing a veneered project so I thought this would be the best place to get an answer. I am in the process of building another blanket chest and I found some red cedar veneer to use for the sides and top on the inside of the chest. I will be spraying the outside with lacquer and was wondering if I could leave the inside unfinished without potential future problems. If it makes a difference the veneered panels are made with a plywood substrate. I will also be using solid cedar on the inside bottom so it would be fine if I had to finish the veneered panels on the inside but if it is ok I would like to leave them unfinished. I have never applied finish to only one side of a project so I have no experience in what would happen if I don't. Any help would be appreciated.


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## stefang

Paul, your biggest worry would be moisture and your glue degrading causing de-lamination. Using a waterproof glue like Titebond 3 should guarantee stability (not that I'm 100% sure you need it in your climate).


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## tinnman65

Thanks Mike, I used unibond 800 so I don't think the glue will degrade from moisture.


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## RogerBean

After my great two weeks in June at the American School of French Marquetry, I'm firmly ensconced in the chevalet builder group. It's actually coming along quite well and most of the structural work is done. I have the saw arm and mechanism parts to complete, but getting there. I'm using Patrick's hardware kit and drawings. They are a real time saver. Perhaps another week or two.

Here it is in it's current state (July 7, '14)










I'm using cherry, just because that's what I have a lot of. The saw bow will be oak. Anyway, I'm looking forward to getting it finished so I can start cutting some pieces.

Roger


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## tinnman65

Its looking good Roger, I love the look of the cherry, it looks like figured cherry from the picture. The hardest part now is coming in your shop when you have other things to do and seeing it unfinished,when I got to this point I almost couldn't wait to get it done.


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## stefang

Great progress Roger, you sure didn't waste any time getting started. It's going to be beautiful in cherry. Who would have thought a few years ago that there would be a renaissance in Chevalets? Sharing is bringing new life to so many different aspects of woodworking, especially when craftsmen like yourself get involved.


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## WPatrick

I appreciate the comment about the "renaissance" in the appreciation of the "chevalet de marqueterie." However, for it to be a true renaissance, there must be a "rebirth." In this case, the existence of the tool was essentially unknown in North America, with the exception of a handful of European immigrants working in the back rooms of antique dealers in New York or other large cities. It was a secret tool for centuries.

I can take some measure of pride in having made a real effort to publish several articles about the history of the tool and its use, as well as public demonstrations and creating a school, all of which have set the groundwork for the acceptance of this method of cutting wood.

Credit also goes to Paul for starting this forum, which has reached a larger audience, and provided a method for others to contribute their ideas.

From time to time I like to check in and see what's happening. For example, I note the post about setting the blade tension. It is not obvious how to do this, and it is frustrating when the blade breaks. Most importantly, the blade needs to be put in the back jaw, tight, with the teeth on the bottom and cutting on the push stroke. Then the blade should be fed through the packet and the next step is critical. Carefully move the packet all the way down the blade until it contacts the back jaws completely. Rest the back jaw and the packet in the "V" of the foot clamp and hold it tight, using both feet. Put the right hand under the saw and pull on the back arm of the saw, using the biceps in the arm, so that the rear jaw cannot move. Hold the saw firmly, pressing the front knob against your shoulder, bending the saw frame to create tension. Now use your free left hand to tighten the blade in the front jaw and release. If done properly, this will create the proper, high pitch tone in the blade. You cannot make the blade tension too tight. At some point it will break the blade…that is too tight!

When you get used to this method, it becomes second nature, and you can set a new blade in a matter of seconds.

The other problem I see with blades is when it gets twisted. You cannot see the twist, but the blade no longer cuts directly down. You can twist the blade by rotating the packet without moving the blade to create a clearance hole. Remember the 2/0 blade is about 0.011" by 0.018" on cross section, so it can bind in the cut if you rotate the packet too quickly. Most people twist the blade when they get up from the tool, and the packet rotates freely, bending the blade. Make sure you create a clearance hole for the blade, and find the center of the mass of the packet, before stopping.

These are some of the first lessons we work on at the school, during the first week.

As to the chevalet, I sell the hardware kits and blueprints, and that makes it much easier to build. Let me know if you want to order one or have any questions about it.

Keep cutting!


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## stefang

Thanks for this info Patrick. I am probably the Chevalet owner who has the most need of your marquetry courses, but unfortunately that is not in the cards for me, so I do appreciate these tips. At this point the technical part is my biggest challenge. I have an awful lot to learn about every aspect of marquetry, but that of course is half the fun. I expect to make a lot of mistakes and I hope I will be smart enough to learn from them.


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## RogerBean

Still moving along here. I put in about 6 hours today and managed to do the saddle joint for the post that supports the saw support arm. And the Mortise and tenon joint to connect the two. I cut both ends, the horizontal and vertical adjuster tendons and shaped the saw slide supports on the ends.

I'm not used to making these joints, so I'm probably a good measure slower than someone who does them regularly. But so far, things are moving along satisfactorily. I probably have about thirty hours invested in the chevalet. More to go, of course.

As of tonight, this is the state of affairs:










Tomorrow, I hope to get the clamping post and parts fitted. That, and maybe a few other small chores. I'm taking Patrick's advice and building to the 61 cm size and adding about 1.2" to the seat in the form of a padded leather seat, which will bring things down to a 58 cm machine, which is what fits my size. This way, by adjusting the seat height, rather than sizing the whole machine, this particular chevalet could be adapted easily to just about anyone.

Best,
Roger


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## stefang

Looks real good Roger. I too found out how different it was working with heavy timber, a lot more physical labor involved. I'm very glad to be back to the small stuff.


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## jmartel

That is going to be looking real nice all shined up. I wish I was in an area of the country that had hardwoods cheap enough to do a nice Chevalet. In the PNW, it's all softwood.


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## stefang

Can I sand shade veneers that have paper glued onto their faces? The veneers have already been cut out for my marquetry project. I'm worried about burning up the paper which is supposed to be removed after gluing to the substrate. This was a Boulle stack method cutting. Maybe I shouldn't have reinforced the faces with paper? Thankful for any help with this.


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## RogerBean

Mike,
Just a curious question: How many hours (guess is fine) do you have in making your chevalet? It's a really nice looking machine, and as I come to the completion of my own chevalet project, I'm curious how much time others have in their units. My initial take is that these things are not a two day project. (Or perhaps, I'm just slow - even with power tools. LOL)

Perhaps Paul can also add something when he returns from sailing.

I'm getting to the end though. finished the saw bow today. I'll post some finished pictures in a few days as I'm in the stage where there fifty little details that need attending to (round this, sand that, attach this, glue that, check these, etc. ) even though it looks nearly finished. Not hard to see why these things will sell for $2500 or more.

Workin' away.

Roger


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## stefang

My build time might not be a good gauge Roger. I built it over a period of 6 months working periodically. I haven't a clue how many hours I spent on it. My impression from following some of the others is that they did theirs in couple of months, but not working full time on it. I think Paul said his first one took 20 hours or maybe 40 hrs. Remember besides being a highly competent woodworker Paul is used to working with heavy timbers as a shipbuilder.

The timing won't mean a thing to you. Once it is done you will have a lifetime quality tool and judging by the quality of your other work it will be a humdinger.

I did my first real chevy work yesterday cutting a boulle type packet for a project devised by Paul to teach me quite a few marquetry skills. The cutting went great and I now have four identical marquetry pictures. He's away somewhere right now and that's why my question about the sand shading here on the forum.


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## stefang

Just a note to say that I found out that I can sand shade with the paper backing on the veneer, so no advice required.


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## N6DSW

> ....I do have a question for you about the Chevy. I cut out the back clamp board today making it 3/8" thick between the top and bottom 3/4" ends like your Sketchup plan specifies. I thought it would bend some by hand, but it was totally stiff. Would that be normal or is my maple just not flexible enough? My thought was to screw it down first so It can be tested before gluing it in permanently. Alternatively I could make it thinner until it gets somewhat flexible. What do you think?
> 
> - stefang


Hi Everyone,

Stefang. Are you still happy with using maple for the (back clamp board) aka springboard on your Chevy?

I went through the whole blog and compiled the various woods folks had mentioned that they had used/suggested to be used for their springboards in reply from your original post. Maple, oak, birch, & ash were all mentioned. I spec'd my Chevy to be all hard sugar maple & have spent the last few weeks roughing out pieces and laminating up some bigger pieces such as the main post and the cross arms assemblies. (Thickest maple I can get was kiln dried 7/4 rough cut planks. No beams.)

I'm at the point I am about to make a second run to the hardwood dealer north of me to pick up a few odds & ends for other projects and I thought if maple isn't the best choice for this part this would be the time to get something else.

Suggestions?

-Dave


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## shipwright

I like Oak, probably because of my experience with bending ribs in boats. It is good and springy and very strong. 
That said, I don't glue the spring piece in. I fasten it with machine screws into insert nuts in the seat pieces. This way it can be replaced /modified if you don't like it after you become familiar with the chevy. You really can't be expected to make the decision of how springy or stiff works best for you until you have some hours under your belt.
Too flexible won't work but there is certainly a range of a flexibility that does, not just one perfect flex for every person.

............. IMHO


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## stefang

The maple worked perfectly Dave. I was unduly worried as the board felt so stiff before mounting it. I would think many different hardwoods would work ok, though I can't say that for sure.


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## shipwright

..... Not a specifically chevy topic but …........
I needed some dark dust today for mastic and remembered that the last time I was sanding on the lathe I had noted how the dust neatly deposited itself on the strip of sandpaper I was using. 
......... So I turned a little wedge spindle and sanded it with 180 grit paper and quickly accumulated all the fine dust I needed and more. I avoided contamination by vacuuming up the lathe before the sanding. It's sure a lot easier than making it by hand and much cleaner dust than you can get from a collector bag on any sander. It seems absolutely uniform and very fine and it did the job very well.
Just thought it might save someone else some trouble…........


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## stefang

Good idea Paul and for those who don't have a lathe the same could be done with a drillpress.


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## N6DSW

Thank you Stefang for your info on your spring board and to Paul for the suggestion of using oak and on the inserts. I can always count on this blog to get answers.

-Dave


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## RogerBean

Just completing the loop, here. A few days ago I posted some pics of the incomplete chevalet I was making. Now that it's done, I should probably include a completed pic here to top off the subject. (even though I posted the chevalet as a "project" on LJ)










Anyway, here it is. I'm quite happy with it and working away on the first project with marquetry.

Roger


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## stefang

Congratulations once again Roger. It's a beauty and I love the curved arty arm support which I'm pretty sure is of your own design. I'm looking forward to some great marquetry projects from you.


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## jmartel

Roger,

How long did it take you to make with Patrick's hardware/plans?


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## RogerBean

jmartel:
I built it over a period of three weeks working about four hours a day with only a few off. So, I estimate I have somewhere around 65-75 hours to complete. I was slowed somewhat in that I was beginning with 2" cherry slabs with the bark still on. So getting to planed boards ready for lamination took some additional time. I also had the benefit of a 20" planer, 12" turret head radial arm saw, 20" bandsaw, and a mortiser, all of which made building easier. Some credible folks report finishing theirs in about 40 hours. Believable, because I didn't rush, and I'm certainly not the fastest horse in the barn anyway.

No doubt the plans and kit from Patrick made the going both easier and faster. While I did not follow the plans exactly as to thickness of some parts, because my lumber size was a bit different, the plans still eliminated a lot of guessing and calculating and chin scratching. Hope this helps.

Roger


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## jmartel

Thanks for the information, Roger. I may have some money coming in later this year so I might just spring for the hardware/plans from Patrick instead of trying to do it on my own and fabricating some hardware. It would make it faster to build at least I would think.


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## MNedman

Roger, thanks for posting the completed pic of your chevalet, it is definitely a job well done and will give you a lifetime of service. Is the pic taken in its final home location? I really like the idea of a white floor underneath it, for those inevitable periods of prayer to the marquetry gods when you are on your knees searching for that little tiny piece that somehow just exploded from the packet…


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## RogerBean

Matt,
Thanks for the kind words. And, yes, that is the final location. My poor little garage shop is cheek by jowl even now, so it's located in my ex office space over the shop. The white board is the cheap ($10/sheet) 1/8" masonite shower board from Home Depot. (same stuff Patrick uses on the bench when wetting the kraft paper). And yes, it's there for exactly the purpose you describe. LOL
Roger


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## shipwright

I did a 2 hour marquetry / chevalet demo at the Sooke Fine Art Show yesterday. It was very well received and next year they want me to do a whole day. It's fun to see the looks on people's faces when they see a chevalet cutting for the first time. It is after all a pretty fascinating piece of equipment. I was fortunate enough to have one of my chart boxes accepted by the jury to be exhibited at the show.


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## stefang

That looks like great fun Paul. I'm sure many will be interested in seeing how ingenious and efficient a 200+ years old hand driven machine can be and the level of precision work which can be produced on it. Also congratulations on your exhibition entry. I hope you get some serious recognition for your efforts because I think you deserve it.


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## shipwright

I just posted a blog entry about my new "Chevalight". It may be of interest to those of you with old eyes like mine.


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## tinnman65

Nice Paul, but if you want to be historically accurate you really should hang a oil lamp from that set up


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## jmartel

Well, I think historical accuracy went out the window with a linear motion shaft and bearings.


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## stefang

Looks great Paul. I have a lamp with an adjustable arm mounted on the wall just in front of my chevy which works very well. I'm afraid that classic cutting on the chevy is a no go for me. I need magnification in addition to the extra lighting.

I will just have to do classic style on my scroll saw. That isn't really a bad option because background cuts can be done by cutting a large hole in the center of a cutout which leaves the blade free to make detail cuts from any direction. Cuts on the sharp corners of insert pieces can be made by backing out and turning in the waste area to cut the other side. An addition advantage is that a lager size blade can be used with this technique.


----------



## MNedman

Here's a 4 minute video of Patrick Edwards demonstrating the chevalet at Woodworking in America 2014. Great job Patrick!

Ooops see the link in the next post.


----------



## MNedman

Here's a 4 minute video of Patrick Edwards demonstrating the chevalet at Woodworking in America 2014. Great job Patrick!


----------



## stefang

Thanks for that video link Mathew, Patrick did a great job with it. I might be able to manage with the glasses if I can get double the actual size from them. I just have to start looking for them. I also got a bit more insight into the blade twisting problem. I was aware of the problem, but I can see that I will have to be more disciplined to make sure I don't twist it, especially when I'm finished cutting.


----------



## dbray45

Good video - thanks


----------



## RogerBean

Since completing my chevalet (#248, 253 and 266 above) I discovered that my saw bow had warped, leaving the rear chuck nearly 1/2" higher than the front.










Perhaps just a piece of tension wood, or whatever, but I was quite careful making it and I'm sure it was straight when I glued it up. Anyway, I doodled around with for a while trying to adjust it and ended up with the slides at about a 45 degree angle. (not really, but it looked terrible, and wanted to bind) Obviously not acceptable. Then I tried to clamp it in an overcorrected position, hoping that it would re-set back to straight. After a week in the clamp: No joy there either.

Yesterday, I began making a new one with carefully selected wood and paying great attention to getting the joinery as perfect as possible. Should get it finished up and glued today. Hopefully, this one will be OK.

Moral of the story: It was probably just my bad luck, but don't try messing around with a bow that's less than perfect. It's a waste of time. LOL
Roger


----------



## stefang

Good you have it under control now Roger.


----------



## shipwright

I've made five saw frames and been lucky I guess, but I have to say that I have one (arbutus) like yours Roger, on the scrap pile. I like to think of it as a sculpture. Perhaps one day I'll make a display base for it. 

Congrats on the show Patrick, and a fine chevy demo.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Hi Folks,

I attended the "Stage 1 Boulle" class last week and am going to be building a chevy. I've got a couple of questions:

1. I almost hesitate to ask, but does anyone have an opinion on what woods are (or aren't) appropriate?
In the class Patrick mentioned Beech, White Oak and Ash as good choices. My choice will be somewhat driven by what I can get for a reasonable price, my preference would be White Oak overall, but I may get backed into a Doug Fir frame with the saw bow itself in White Oak.

2. Anyone have an estimate of how many BF of lumber is required? I'll do a tally myself when I get some time in the shop with the plans, but I thought I'd ask.


----------



## JR45

I am using reclaimed English Oak for the majority of mine. I was given the oak by a neighbour who was planning to use it in his wood burner! It was originally part of a doorframe in an old building, possibly a large house or a substantial office building.I estimate that the wood was originally planted about 150 years ago based on the annual growth rings I counted.


















It is extremely hard to work with hand tools but looks wonderful after a few coats of BLO.









I am getting close to completing mine and will post some more pictures when it is finished and assembled.

Jim


----------



## stefang

Most stable hardwoods and even Douglas fir should work well Joel. I used kiln dried hard maple for mine and I haven't experienced any movement at all. I did let my maple sit for awhile after the initial milling, but I didn't detect any movement after that so I just cut the parts out after letting it sit in the shop for a couple of weeks. I do think it would be an advantage to make sure your wood is dry enough before you begin.


----------



## RogerBean

Joe,
I agree with Mike and Jim that the structure could successfully be made from just about anything. Oak or ash being the safest choice for the saw bow. However, if one is going to spend 40 to 70 hours making the chevalet, it's probably worth it to choose a wood you'll want to look at for a long time. LOL Mine is cherry with an oak saw and this choice has worked out well (despite my problems with a warping saw bow). The second saw bow from oak is working out fine. I don't have a number on the board feet required, but laminating from 5/4 stock makes things go easier, and Patrick's hardware kit saves time.
Roger


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I did get Patrick's kit for the Chevalet, in large part because I don't want to spend any more time making the tool than necessary. I want to get to cutting packets so I can get my skills up. It's a fair point that after spending the money for the hardware kit and investing the time to build it I shouldn't cheap out on the lumber.

I calculated the BF for Shipwright's design with CutList, and it came in at 31bf. Given the number of individual parts and the need to laminate to get the thickness it's probably in the 35 to 40 bf range. That gives me a reasonable starting point.


----------



## shipwright

Hi Joe, my first one is D. Fir and after almost four years, still cuts bang on with the adjusters still at the neutral position. My second is Garry Oak and at almost the same age, has only the horizontal adjuster moved about 1/8".
I think any stable wood will be fine.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I suspect I'm overthinking this, it wouldn't be the first time (much less the first time today).



> Hi Joe, my first one is D. Fir and after almost four years, still cuts bang on with the adjusters still at the neutral position. My second is Garry Oak and at almost the same age, has only the horizontal adjuster moved about 1/8".
> I think any stable wood will be fine.
> 
> - shipwright


----------



## MNedman

Joel, great to know there is another ASFM alumni following this thread. Keep us posted on your chevy build progress, we'd love to look in on you. I built mine primarily out of beech and oak that I salvaged from the Re-Store…if you have one of those in your area it may be worth going to take a look…I think I got 40 bd ft for $1/ft.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I went to the lumberyard today to get materials for the Chevy. I was thinking I'd get some of the kiln dried vertical grain doug fir they sell, but it was surprisingly expensive. But they had a special on 8/4 Sapele "narrows" - 5" to 6" wide that was cheaper than anything else I could find short of green construction lumber. Hopefully I got enough to build the Chevy, I certainly have enough to keep me busy this weekend.


----------



## shipwright

You're on your way now Joe. 
Keep us posted. We love pictures!


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I only got an hour or two in the shop today-it's "Open Studios" here and I went and visited a couple of local woodworkers today-but I got the glued up parts of the base and front upright squared and roughed in the double tenon and mortises for the front part. I'll need to do some cleanup on the mortise walls and pare out the waste between the tenons tomorrow.


----------



## shipwright

Looks good so far.
Are you using HHG on this?


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I hadn't heard "HHG" before-hot hide glue, right?

I have a glue pot I made and glue, but haven't put them together yet. I used Titebond 3 for the lamination, I'll probably switch to Old Brown for the joinery where I could have some on the surface and mess with the finish.

I'll need to try out my glue pot one of these days (and I certainly will do that for assembling marquetry), but I usually get an hour here and and hour there in the shop and don't have time to heat up a pot of glue. Or at least that's my story 












> Looks good so far.
> Are you using HHG on this?
> 
> - shipwright


----------



## Sylvain

Joe,
with a bit of luck, depending of the thermal capacity of the pot, puting boiling water in the external pot might end up after a few seconds with the correct temperature for the glue.
Even if you put the internal pot with the glue in the fridge, there might be a hot spot where you could keep the external pot warm.


----------



## shipwright

I just looked at your glue pot blog and your projects Joe.
I predict great things in marquetry when you get your chevy built.
That certainly is one industrial strength glue pot. What heat source will you use?


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

It's starting to look like something. The simple part is done, now on to the rest…


----------



## tinnman65

Looks great Joe. That wood is fantastic looking, this is going to be a sharp looking chevy!


----------



## shipwright

So much for the furniture part. 
Now tomes the tool part. 
Looks really nice so far.


----------



## stefang

Looks super Joe. You are going to love using this machine.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

How does everyone do the joint between the horizontal arm and the vertical riser on the saw frame support? In Paul's Sketchup model it's a bridal joint. The blueprints from ASFM don't call out a specific joint-so I'm inclined to go with a bridal joint there myself. Somewhere I thought I saw a more complex joint called out for that spot…

(am I overthinking it again?)


----------



## jmartel

I would go with the bridal joint. It, and the half-lap joint, is the strongest joint available. If you were really worried about it, you could pin the joint as well.


----------



## stefang

I used the bridle joint per Paul's design. It prevents carriage from end to end movementk and I didn't find it necessary to pin it, as it really can't move at all.


----------



## JR45

Here's a couple of shots of my approach. A version of the bridle joint at the bottom(not the prettiest joint I've made but it's all square) and a stub tenon at the top to connect with the saw rail holder. Lots of HHG and it seems to work ok so far.


















Jim


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I found the pictures I was thinking of, it's from Mike Lingenfelter's build (http://lumberjocks.com/Koonan/blog/39070)

Crud, I'd just talked myself into the simpler bridal joint…


----------



## RogerBean

Joe,
I used a simple bridal joint on mine and it's rock solid. I admire intricate and wonderfully crafted joinery as much as anyone, and for those who are so inclined, I'm all for it. However, my suspicion is that chevalets have been built using all manner of joinery over the years, and that so long as it's solid, that there is no arbitrary "standard". While we do tend to pay "homage" to traditional joinery for this wonderful 18th century tool, it's more a matter of tradition dating back to when there were fewer choices. While it needs to be stable, in actual use, the sawing action puts hardly any strain on the structure at all. After all, the ultimate purpose is to create marquetry, not masterpiece chevaliers.

Just my opinion.
Roger


----------



## tinnman65

I second what Roger said considering I didn't even put a finish on mine


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I realized after staring at that joint that I had to start building the saw support at the other end-where the horizontal / vertical adjusters are…since my lumber is different dimension than the blueprints I need to factor that into the build so that the saw ends up where it's supposed to be.

Anyway, the adjuster are done. On to finishing up the rest of this assembly and then the saw frame next.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Plugging away on my chevy, I've got the saw frame almost done (further along than this pic, just need to finish the rough shaping before gluing it up):










and modeled the seat assembly in CAD so I can figure out the joinery on the next set of pieces to make. I wish I could make parts as fast as I can model them in CAD…


----------



## stefang

Your Chevy looks great Joe. Nicely built and beautiful wood too. I suggest you drill for the saw clamps and square them up or use a mortiser if you have one before you glue up the saw frame. It should turn out more accurate and be easier to do that way.


----------



## jmartel

Joe, what do you use for your 3D? I use Rhino at work, but I can hold my own in Solidworks if needed as well.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I use Solidworks. Every time I try to use SketchUp or Rhino or any CAD tool without a feature tree like SW I'm very unhappy. The ability to go back and change a sketch or 3D operation is pretty valuable. I used to use Alibre (like 10 years ago), and that was OK, although it was pretty buggy at the time.



> Joe, what do you use for your 3D? I use Rhino at work, but I can hold my own in Solidworks if needed as well.
> 
> - jmartel


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Mike - I totally agree. I was just so happy to have the joinery cut and fitting properly, I was nervous about getting the finger joint done right.

I did the square mortises for the blade clamps, the tapering on the thickness and the decorative reliefs. It will need a bit of scraping and sanding after the glue is dry, it's in the clamps now. The last dry fit looked like this:












> Your Chevy looks great Joe. Nicely built and beautiful wood too. I suggest you drill for the saw clamps and square them up or use a mortiser if you have one before you glue up the saw frame. It should turn out more accurate and be easier to do that way.
> 
> - stefang


----------



## stefang

Looks great and fancy too. It is quite a thrill when you use it the first time and find out how good it is.


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## shipwright

Looks really good Joe.

I wish I could model them as fast as I can make them. ...... :-(



> I wish I could make parts as fast as I can model them in CAD…
> 
> - JoeMcGlynn


----------



## stefang

You can Paul, just use a pencil and piece of paper like I do. The projects I have modeled with Sketchup took longer than the build, but I guess the younger folks have the computer stuff in their DNA.


----------



## JR45

Now that my chevalet is finished I need to start thinking about an initial project. I have read hereon LJs that Inkscape is used by a number of members to process images for use on chevalet based projects. Are there any Mac users who have used this software and has it been any problem to download and get familiar with? Any comments or suggestions will appreciated.
Thanks
Jim


----------



## RogerBean

We're a full "Apple Shop" here at Rattlesnake Ranch, so I can add that iDraw, Pixelmator, and EazyDraw are all useful. Not pricy, and they all do sort of different things. But, it's possible to recreate the old patterns and scans in an an Apple ecosphere with little hassle, and move them to very fine line patterns. For the non Apple folks, Deneba Canvas also permits all the needed functions, they no longer support the Mac. Shame. I really loved that software.
Roger


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I've installed it and experimented with it on the Mac. It has a handy function that can "trace" images to give you a starting point on patterns, but I've only done a tiny bit of experimenting with it.

Have to finish the Chevy first…



> Now that my chevalet is finished I need to start thinking about an initial project. I have read hereon LJs that Inkscape is used by a number of members to process images for use on chevalet based projects. Are there any Mac users who have used this software and has it been any problem to download and get familiar with? Any comments or suggestions will appreciated.
> Thanks
> Jim
> 
> - Jim Rowe


----------



## stefang

I'll keep them in mind. Thanks for the heads up Roger.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Another source for patterns is http://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-patterns

Also, I saw somewhere that the Marquetry Society (http://www.marquetry.org) has patterns for members.

And the three volume set of marquetry books by Renard has some patterns in it (crazy, complex stuff).

I might use this one from craftsman space.com for a project, maybe a box:


----------



## shipwright

craftsmanspace.com …...... gotta love it.




























I also use Ramond's Masterpieces of Marquetry set (as Joe mentioned). There are lots of ideas in those books.

I also do tracings from pics from Google images, they are a great source of photos.


----------



## RogerBean

Both your choice of woods, and your craftsmanship are exemplary. I am envious. Maybe someday…
Roger


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

^--Paul, I want to say something but every time I look at your current marquetry project I'm just speechless.

Phenomenal.

Stunning.

By contrast I just spent four hours flattening the backs on my chisels (done!) and sharpening them (half done!).


----------



## shipwright

Thanks gents, but back to the topic ….. Inkscape I think it was ….
Here are a couple of screenshots of my tracings, The first from "Marquetry" (and it goes across the spine of the hardcover book) and the second (Pierre Gole) from Google Images. I am however using PC, not Apple so I can't answer that part. They don't blow up well because the screenshots are low res. but I print them out with .01" red lines and they work well. I haven't built up the courage to attempt either of these two as yet but I'm considering a form of the second for the ends of my current jewellery box project. (that's why it is stretched a little sideways)


----------



## JR45

Thanks for the input folks. I think I will give iDraw a trial. It's designed specifically for Mac and hopefully will be really intuitive to use like most of the other Mac applications. We'll see.
Here is a shot of something I am thinking of using as my first attempt. It's a shot of a humming bird taken by a friend on a recent trip to Palm Springs.









Jim


----------



## shipwright

Nice one Jim. That looks made for marquetry. It will look great.
Good luck and keep us posted.


----------



## stefang

Nice hummingbird photo. Have fun Jim, can't wait to see it.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I looked at iDraw-it looked interesting. Does anyone know if it has an "auto trace" function like inkscape?


----------



## shipwright

I just posted this little drill guide. It may be of interest as it is specifically for use with packet cutting styles.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Finally finished the Chevy.

I need to make some practice cuts to dial in the adjustments, but it seems to be pretty close. The wood is Sapele, which was the cheapest I could get short of buying green construction lumber at the home center. The local wood store sells 8/4 Sapele "narrows" (<6> wide) for a really reasonable price.


----------



## jmartel

Sapele Chevy. Nice. One of my favorite woods.

Now you need to work on your first piece to mount to the front of it.


----------



## shipwright

Very nice art piece Joe. It really makes mine look like "users". 

I mean that in the best possible way of course. It never hurts to make something that you use for long hours beautiful.
I look forward to your marquetry offerings.


----------



## JR45

Jo
The sapele looks great! It will darken further over time to look even more stunning. Great stuff.
Did you find a "trace" function in iDraw?
Jim


----------



## DanKrager

That is a beautiful piece of working furniture. Well done.
Let's see how fast it goes from 0 to 60! 
DanK


----------



## stefang

Great looking Chevy Joe. The sapele looks real good with the dark stain. You are going to love the control you will have cutting with it. I conducted a little contest this morning between my scroll saw and my chevy cutting some fancy lettering. The chevy did a great job on it while the scroll saw couldn't even begin to cut it so fine.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Thanks Mike.

No stain on it though, just oil+poly mix. Some of the wood had an amazing dark color/figure-the riser and toggle arm to operate the clamp for example. I picked the wood with the absolute straightest quarter sawn grain for the saw frame, and it's color is much lighter.

It will probably all blend to a darker color over the next 10 years. Time to do some marquetry I guess. I need a couple of warm up projects.

Jim, I haven't checked out iDraw yet. It's on the list, especially now that I'm ready to ruin some veneer.



> Great looking Chevy Joe. The sapele looks real good with the dark stain. You are going to love the control you will have cutting with it. I conducted a little contest this morning between my scroll saw and my chevy cutting some fancy lettering. The chevy did a great job on it while the scroll saw couldn t even begin to cut it so fine.
> 
> - stefang


----------



## jmartel

You also might want to check out Inkscape. You can import a photo and turn it into a line drawing with just a couple clicks. Works pretty well.

How many boardfeet of Sapele did you end up using?


----------



## MNedman

Great job on completing the chevalet Joe. That Sapele is awesome!


----------



## RogerBean

Gorgeous work. I presume you will post this chevy as a "project" so I can gush some more?
Roger


----------



## RogerBean

Gorgeous work. I presume you will post this chevy as a "project" so I can gush some more?
Roger


----------



## tinnman65

Great job Joe, It looks like a piece of fine furniture. I love seeing the pictures of the chevalet in with all those power tools in the background!


----------



## Woodenwizard

A very fine piece.


----------



## tinnman65

I thought I would mention that Patrick Edwards will be teaching again at Marc Adams School of Woodworking in Whiteland Indiana. For us folks that live on the other side of the country from were his school is this is a great opportunity. I am already signed up for his French Marquetry: Advancing Your Skills Piece by Piece Class (8-24 to 8-28) and I belive there are only 8 spots total in this class so if this is something you would be interested in check out MASW website for details before its all filled up. One last plug. If you have never been to Marcs school you will not be dissapointed, he runs a world class operation even if its in the middle of a corn feild.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I'm a little afraid of piece-by-piece. Maybe after I get more "seat time".



> I thought I would mention that Patrick Edwards will be teaching again at Marc Adams School of Woodworking in Whiteland Indiana. For us folks that live on the other side of the country from were his school is this is a great opportunity. I am already signed up for his French Marquetry: Advancing Your Skills Piece by Piece Class (8-24 to 8-28) and I belive there are only 8 spots total in this class so if this is something you would be interested in check out MASW website for details before its all filled up. One last plug. If you have never been to Marcs school you will not be dissapointed, he runs a world class operation even if its in the middle of a corn feild.
> 
> - tinnman65


----------



## tinnman65

They are also offering a Painting with Wood: French Marquetry class the week before but I don't know what the status of the class availability is. It is not in the class descriptions but if you look at the catalog class description also found at marcadams.com it says if you take the Piece by Piece class you can start at your skill level wherever that is and start with painting in wood. He is also teaching some weekend classes "veneering a turned vertical column" and "Geometrical Marquetry" between the week long classes. I should also add that the school is having a class on building a chevalt in September for anyone still sitting on the fence, take the class and go home with a Chevy!


----------



## rustynails

> . If you have never been to Marcs school you will not be dissapointed, he runs a world class operation even if its in the middle of a corn feild.
> 
> - tinnman65


Plus one on Marc's its a great school / along with the Patrick Edwards French Marquetry school… I have been to both you cant go wrong at either locations.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Thanks Paul. I need more practice and practical experience before I go to a more advanced class. Luckily I'm in Norcal so I can drive to Patrick's shop for an advanced class once I'm ready. I took his Boulle class in September, and it's taken me until now to get the tool built.


----------



## dbray45

Joe - That is a seriously nice Chevalet.


----------



## handsawgeek

Has anyone here made use of a spyrograph drawing toy for coming up with geometric patterns that could be used in marquetry?

I intend to present this in my LJs blog in the next couple of weeks.

I've used it for some of my pyrography work.


----------



## droogs

Hi guys,
This "club" is a fantastic idea, i am hoping to start building mine in the next month or so. Will let you all know how it goes. 
@Shipwright - Thank you for posting the blueprints on sketchup and for passing on what you have learned.


----------



## Schwieb

Not sure how I missed this earlier but you can count me in as a want to own. I guess since I once owned a real 57 Chevy, that I should start with wanting to build one of those. I love what you guys and gals are doing and want to devote some time in the future to taking some courses. I'm getting close to retiring so this will become more possible. Sign me up!


----------



## AddingtonFurniture

I spent the day with Paul Miller yesterday and got my first taste of Boulle Marquetry. I have been interested in marquetry for about 4 years now. I learned a ton from Paul and I got to see the progress he has made on his jewelry box. It is absolutely stunning in person. I would like to thank Paul for his hospitality, knowledge, willingness to teach, & patience. I had an incredible time and learned so much! Thank you!

This is my first ever exercise in marquetry - I have a few pictures from yesterday.














































The hardest part for me was sand shading. Top left photo was the first I shaded, then top right, then bottom right, and finally bottom left. I felt like I was starting to get the hang of it on the last panel. I found out I really like the spoon shading technique.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Looks great Luke! That's a good project to start with, it gives you a chance to try cutting and sand shading (which we didn't cover in the stage 1 boulle class).


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

This is a piece I recently did, it's larger and has more elements than previous practice pieces. I think this is the 3rd or 4th piece I've done since building the chevy (and after taking the stage 1 class). It's the first one I've done where I felt more or less in control from start to finish.


----------



## Druid

Luke - Sounds like you had a really good day with Paul. I can see where we will see the addition of marquetry to projects like your Cherry Jewelry Box. Nicely done.

Joe - Looks great. I also like the way that you framed the outside using the grain of the wood.


----------



## shipwright

Thanks Luke, my pleasure.
That's a nice piece Joe, you're on your way now.


----------



## stefang

Great work on Luke. This is a great project to get started with. I have done it too, thanks again to Paul. Also quite an impressive piece by Joe.


----------



## FilipTanghe

Hello,I was invited by Paul Miller to join ,so here i am;Luke addington has helped me to make my profile because i am not so good in englisch. I have 2 chevaletsne of those is with lineair ball bearings,wich Pierre Ramond and Gabriel Fuchs (his successor) have recommended when i followed stage 1 & 2 at the famous école boulle in 1998 and 2000










this is the one with lineair ball bearings










cloe up










This is the second










cloe up










here i am sitting on my favorite(the one with ball bearings)










Minou the marqueteur










no comment




























i hope this is good enough to become a member of the chevalet club.
thanks for the interest!


----------



## RogerBean

Filip,
I think your membership is assured.  Nice work indeed.
Roger


----------



## shipwright

Welcome aboard Filip.
I think you can go to the head of the class.


----------



## FilipTanghe

Thanks Paul,


----------



## jmartel

> i hope this is good enough to become a member of the chevalet club.
> thanks for the interest!
> 
> - Filip Tanghe


Is that a sheet of brass? Hard to tell. You do great work.


----------



## FilipTanghe

Yes jmartel,its brass and blackdyed pearwood. the marquetery is cut with a pebeco nr 2 sawblade ,so no easy

turning like a double 0 like the americans like to use. I did this because i learned this way at ecole boulle and also

to have the same wide joints like in the 17th century.










If You or other marqueteurs want to know more abot boullework ,please ask and i will respond as good as a can.


----------



## FilipTanghe

Jmartel

This is also made with pebeco nr 2 sawblade;You should make this easy on a chevalet i You want.

But its made with a jigsaw, its juste to show now what posible is with a chevalet as long if You practice.










circle of 48 cm


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Crazy good work Filip! I definitely need more practice.


----------



## tinnman65

Beautiful marquetry work Filip. Also I love the upholstered seat on that chevalet


----------



## MNedman

Welcome to the club Filip! Your work is amazing and your chevalets look like they are working really well for you. I would really love to see more of your work. Please post some projects and maybe write a blog for us to follow along on one of your project journeys. I'm intrigued by your comment that you were taught to use a No 2 blade at the school. Is that because in the 1700's they did not have the technology to make the finer 00 blades we like to use now?


----------



## dbray45

Beautiful work Filip,


----------



## stefang

Wonderful work Filip, and your two Chevalets are also very impressive. Welcome to the clubhouse. It would be a pleasure to see more of your fine work.


----------



## rustynails

Filip, Private message sent…Check your mail box.

Thanks Richard


----------



## AddingtonFurniture

Hi everyone, Filip wanted me to thank you all for the comments and let you know that he has been quite ill the last few days and will respond to all of the questions & messages as soon as he is able.


----------



## FilipTanghe

To answer Mathews question : it seems like in the 17th century they couldn't make a saw blade that works finer than a pebecco 2 , the toots of the saw were different,because they were handmade.If you visit the museums 
that show the furniture boulle, you will see it is like this.I want to point out that the chevalet de marquetterie is the best tool to learn marquetterie.In 2008 they had 12 chevalets and 4 jigsaws. Now they have 12 chevalets , 11 jigsaws. After learning the technics, the students mostly choose the jigsaw and that is why ecolle boulle bought more jigsaws ( on demand of the students) 
Instead of working with pebecco nr 2 , they use nr 0 now.So the attitude is changed;Pierre Ramond and Gabriel Fuchs didn't like that , Mr Fuchs sais the students didn't have the will or attitude anymore.

My opinion is that if you make a copy of a 17th century marquetterie, you should have the wide joints.


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## shipwright

Filip, to clarify, are you using 2/0 pebeco or #2 pebeco. I think most of us use 2/0 and I'm guessing that is what you are as well. Is that correct?


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## FilipTanghe

No ,i use #2 Paul.


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## FilipTanghe

Here is a photo.


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## shipwright

OK thanks. That clears it up.


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## FilipTanghe

> Yes jmartel,its brass and blackdyed pearwood. the marquetery is cut with a pebeco nr # 2 sawblade ,so no easy
> 
> turning like a double 0 like the americans like to use. I did this because i learned this way at ecole boulle and also
> 
> to have the same wide joints like in the 17th century.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If You or other marqueteurs want to know more abot boullework ,please ask and i will respond as good as a can.
> 
> - Filip Tanghe


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## FilipTanghe

> Yes jmartel,its brass and blackdyed pearwood. the marquetery is cut with a pebeco nr # 2 sawblade ,so no easy
> 
> turning like a double 0 like the americans like to use. I did this because i learned this way at ecole boulle and also
> 
> to have the same wide joints like in the 17th century.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If You or other marqueteurs want to know more abot boullework ,please ask and i will respond as good as a can.
> 
> - Filip Tanghe
> 
> - Filip Tanghe


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## TobiasZA

Hi. My name is Tobias and I am about to become a Chevaholic!

I have dabbled in marquetry over the years, and have now seen the light! Actually, I really should attach a large lamp to my Chevy. (note to self)

To date, the marquetry that I have done has been with a fret saw or scroll saw and has not been complicated. After seeing Patrick Edwards, Paul Miller and Aron Bigalow's remarkable work, I simply had to build myself a Chevy. Being quite short, (5'4") I used Paul's packing piece system and I think it will work out fine. Paul has been immensely kind in patiently leading me by the hand.

My primary woodworking interest lies in the reproduction of 18th & 19th century European and American fine furniture pieces. I am currently air drying Yellow Wood (SA's National Tree), **************************************** (gorgeous pink shades) Fiddle Wood and Black Locust. I have been sawing my own veneers for quite a while. I have a 17" bandsaw that I tore apart when it arrived, and duly tuned it to the hilt, it has absolutely no drift and I can now easily cut 1.5 or 2mm veneers that do not require any extra work. Hide gluing is common in my workshop, as is my little wood stove, which I started up today to celebrate the first snow of the winter on our beautiful mountain.

I have much to learn.


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## shipwright

Welcome to the club Tobias. Please post a photo of your chevy here for all to see.


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## droogs

Welcome Tobias.
Well guys i am as exicted as a kid on xmas eve, I go to collect my hard maple tomorrow, just over 1/3 m3 that will become my chevy and my bench. will get it all processed this week (by hand) and then into stick for a week to acclimatise, and then ….

woohoo

rgds
droogs


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## TobiasZA

Thanks for the welcome. 
I still have a couple of parts to build, but I'm almost there. It will be a while until my blades arrive, I expect the parcel from Niqua around the end of June sometime.

Pictures of my build can be seen on my blog.
http://lumberjocks.com/TobiasZA/blog/57682

I shall post the completed Chevy here as soon as it is finished.

Droogs, good luck on your build.


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## stefang

Glad to have a new member.


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## jmartel

As life has gotten in the way so far this year, I haven't been able to start one like I wanted to. Hopefully this winter after I do a couple more commissions and get the money I'll be able to build one.


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## AddingtonFurniture

Hi everyone! Two weeks ago I traveled to The American School of French Marquetry for Stage 1 in Boulle technique. I was originally going to post my photo album in this thread but thought it might be a bit annoying for people who don't want to scroll through 30+ photos. So *here's a link to my post about my week at ASFM*!

It was an incredible experience. It was hard to leave at the end of the week and go back to "real life". A huge thank you to Patrick and Patrice! I'm currently getting the marquetry portion of my shop set up so I can get back to cutting as soon as possible. I'm also going to be setting up a walk in closet as a veneer cave to keep all my veneers safe from Arizona's dry heat.

Here's one photo that didn't make it into the post, in Patrick's famous bench room!










-Luke


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## stefang

Looks like you had a great experience at the school. A great starting point for anyone wanting to do marquetry work.


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## tinnman65

Love the photo of the bench room. I think your face says it all! I enjoyed your blog, nice pics.


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## dbray45

Congratulations Luke - Sounds like you had a great time and learned a lot.


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## RogerBean

Luke, Welcome!
Your experience is, I think, one held by many former students of Patrick and Patrice. I not only came home and built a chevalet, but I now am working at a Roubo (Bcnchcrafted) bench, with many new hand tools, and using hide glue. Their enthusiasm for what they do is truly contagious. And their level of skill and knowledge is genuinely remarkable. I'm not selling my machines, but I"m a changed man. LOL
Roger


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## WPatrick

We here at ASFM only offer classes a few weeks each year. The primary mission of our school is to introduce all types of people to the chevalet and the French method for making marquetry. The real reason we offer classes is to force us to clean up the work shop from time to time, since it is a professional studio and, when there are no students, we occupy every horizontal surface with our work. So, it's a real benefit to us to have a clean shop before and after each class.

Patrice and I are passionate about our work and we always get energized by the enthusiasm of the students. It is they who bring the enthusiasm. We catch it from them.

The look on Luke's face when he is standing in my work space says it all. That's the feeling I like to bring into the shop every day.

Thank you, Luke, Roger, Freddy, Paul and all the hundreds of people who have "invaded" my shop over the years.

Patrick


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## FilipTanghe

According to what Luke Addington said about stain veneer with total penetration ,I want to say something about colors and how you can make them.In several posts I will explain how I do it and maybe it will be good information to others and everybody is free to add information also.I will talk about yellow weed (gaude in french),quercitron and auramine to make yellow and indigo carmen (carmin indigo in french),and methylene blue(bleu méthylène in french) to make blue.You can mix these yellows and blues to make green and with iron sulfate(sulfate de fer) you will make green and grey.I will only put on paper what I actualy made myself (so it's not taken from a book) Some time ago I started to write down(because Luke said so)my formules because my grandfather didn't feel the need to write down his formules or label his powders.After his dead I had a problem and because some almost ran out I had to replace them by comparing powders I ordered in france. My friend Gabriel and also Pierre Ramond helped me in the past to identify my grandfathers powders.
So today I will talk about AURAMINE and METHYLENE BLUE.
Methylene blue can be found at the apothecary but for auramine I am still looking for a dealer.
So take 1 liter water and put 2 grams auramine and 0,5 gram methylene in warm water and stirr it. You will have a dark green now wich I call the basiccolor. You can dilute with water to receive lighter green.Also prevent the water to evaporate
Plunge a sample of the wood you want to dye in the solution and check it.
Every time you dilute you will have to make a new sample.When you think you have the right color you can plunge your veneer in for 5 to 10 days ,or longer until its clored trough (you can check this by cutting in the veneer and look if the clor is trough).Rinse the veneer with water and let it dry on sheets of papertowel. when the veneer is complety dry you can flatten them if necessary by hotpress.

This is what I have posted on our group on facebook and maybe it will be intersting here to


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## Sodabowski

Fillip, yellow weed (gaude) is used to make the ancient blue pastel, even though the juice starts as yellow. For a really stable yellow pigment, berberin is a much better choice. I have made an extract of berberin this summer, which I have decanted and purified slowly until now, which I will use during the Christmas holidays to stain holly veneer (which is at my parents' place). Celandin (chélidoine in french) is a great source for berberin, readily available since it's a wild plant (check here for info and here for the actual distribution in the US ). It's a very common weed. I found that extracting the berberin from the leaves and stems is quite messy, since after mixing and extracting the juices you have to deal with the chlorophyl: the water extract must be boiled down and filtered several times for all the chlorophyl to recipitate out. Best is to dry the roots, grind them, and extract the berberin with alcohol or by boiling in water. I guess we might as well make a dedicated topic for that matter, right?


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## shipwright

I caught this on facebook Filip. Thanks a lot for adding it here. 
It is an important piece in our marquetry puzzle in these times of diminishing sources for quality materials. Soon we will be needing to make our own sawn veneers as well as our own dyed veneers. 
Thanks again to both you and your grandfather.


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## Sodabowski

I just opened this forum topic so we can keep the color recipes in one place. I guess it can only help not to dilute the information all over the place!


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## stefang

Great place to keep this info handy for future reference. Thanks much.


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## daddywoofdawg

chevalets: ok google say's it's a art easel,don't think that's what your talking about.so what is it,what's it for,and how do you make one?


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## shipwright

All will be answered if you go back to the first posts here. 
"Chevalet" in French does translate as "easel" in English. 
What this forum is about is the "chevalet de marqueterie" which translates as "marquetry easel" 
It is a tool for cutting marquetry.


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## stefang

Think of as horizontal frame saw with with a clamp to hold workpieces and a with an attached bench to sit on while you saw by push/pulling the frame back and forth. The frame runs on a steel rod to keep it perfectly hoizontal.


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## FilipTanghe

In post#396 I have talked about making a color with AURAMINE & BLUE METHYLENE to soak veneer.
It seems that the auramine is called AURAMINE O.
A friend of mine has pointend out that it might be not alcoholproof during french polishing ,so I rubbed with papertowel & alcohol on samples I made in the past and he is right. The papertowel was coloured!
So i am searching for the solution now and will post this asap.

Thanks for reading!


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## FilipTanghe

In post #396 & #404 I have talked about colouring:In my previous post I had discovered that the colours I've made were not alcoholproof ! So it seems I had forgotten how to fix the colours; I called my good friend Gabriel to ask his advice and he told me this!










I will try this out for myself now and will post also the results.
Thanks for reading.


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## shipwright

Thanks Filip. This is becoming important as sources dry up.


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## jmartel

Not a Chevalet, but I came across this listing on ebay today. Price obviously is super high, but they provide enough photos to piece together enough info to make your own it looks like. I especially like that it can be bench mounted. With a shaft and some VXB bearings it would probably be well worth having for larger work that wouldn't fit on a Chevalet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Unique-Fret-Saw-Attributed-to-the-Shakers-/262242961215?hash=item3d0ee6073f:g:kCIAAOSwaA5Wlv1G


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## madburg

I'm new to lumberjocks and would like to join your clubhouse. What a great forum this is, thanks for sharing your 'secrets' guys, and thanks to Shipwright for instigating it way back!! Having dabbled with marquetry over the years using the old fret saw and scalpel - see below. Oh and a friends laser!! Its now time to get serious and make myself a Chevalet. While I've seen them in books and occasionally on the web I always thought them too difficult …. But I want to try some boulle work for a change using the traditional brass and tortoise (faux), plus trying some engraving on the brass. Looking forward to reading more.


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## shipwright

Welcome, you do nice work. 
Chevalets are certainly not hard to build if you have basic woodworking skills. For someone who built these pieces ….. a piece of cake. You will find all the information that you need here and if you don't, just ask.


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## Hammerthumb

Filip - if you have time, and that recipe works, can you type it out? I am having a hard time reading it.

Thanks

Beautiful pieces Madburg!


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## madburg

Thanks for the reassurance about the building of a chevalet, and the offer of help. Think I've now read every thing - well almost! I like the self aligning bushes, and notice that on your early ones you had a round bar in self aligning bushes, were as in your second one you have a square bar. I may have missed it, if so sorry, but what's your reasoning behind this? Also what bushes have you used for the square bar? Is it worth making the blade clamps long enough to enable you to use different length blades?

Also just mulling over the idea of mounting a LV Featherlight 12" fretsaw frame instead of, or as well as the wooden frame. Alternately the aluminum fret/coping saw frame with its excellent looking clamps. Yes I know it reduces the size of packet. Wonder if there's bigger version of the LV aluminium frame?

Any how I've managed to track a chevalet down here in Western Australia, so will see how that goes.

Keep up the good work.


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## shipwright

I'll PM you about the bar and bearing details.
As far as substituting saw frames, I suppose you could experiment if you wish but the saw frame as it currently exists was designed by arguably the greatest marqueteurs in history and they had time to perfect the machine so I'm not sure there is a lot of room left for improvement.
Also the weight of the saw frame is what does much of the cutting. A lighter frame may be a disadvantage.

On blade clamp length, I made mine long enough to accommodate the standard 130mm (5") blades at first but since I have always used 160mm and have a good source for them I now make the clamps shorter.


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## madburg

Good point about the weight of the saw frame doing the cutting - as a new 'boy' I hadn't thought of that. But guess you could also add weights …...... or even a counter balance or spring to take the weight mmmmm. ..............more thinking required!

Thanks


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## madburg

I managed to borrow a chevalat this afternoon. Its built form sold west Australian Jarrah - so its heavy!! Now thinking about the Pauls comment that "the weight of the saw frame is what does much of the cutting" can any of you tell me what the weight of your frame is? I have a feeling that this one might be too heavy …......... what does anyone think?


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## shipwright

A Jarrah saw frame would.indeed be heavy unless it's parts were slimmed down. I have been to WA and I know how heavy that stuff is. I have made them from several hardwoods and all seem to work but I will take off the one I have at my disposal today and weigh it for you.
When I cut, I am always changing the weight on the blade depending on the type of cut. If the work is straight line I may use the weight of the saw frame but if it is intricate I usually take a little weight off by lifting slightly ….... so it is not strictly about saw frame weight alone.


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## WPatrick

I need to comment on jmartel's posting of the Ebay hand fret saw. First of all, it is a good design and Patrice and I are talking about making one, so that we can easily travel with it in a suitcase for demonstrations.

Second, it is my educated opinion that it is NOT Shaker in any way. It is a fretsaw, and the Shaker design philosophy forbids any extra decoration which is not a functional part of the furniture. There is no reason a Shaker worker would need a fretsaw.

I mention this because I am overly sensitive to the misuse of the term "Shaker". I have visited all the Shaker settlements, and even had lunch with the Shaker sisters who were still alive in the 1970's. Faith Andrews was a mentor of mine and I stayed with her whenever I visited Hancock.

Not every "plain" piece of furniture is "Shaker"!

In spite of the fact that the furniture I make is overly decorative in every aspect, I remain a Shaker at heart.

Also, I welcome madberg and his photos. Good work. Nice clock.


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## jmartel

Thanks for the correction, Patrick. I was just going off of what the ebay link said.

Also, since you're checking into this thread, I'd like to thank you for the youtube videos you've uploaded. They have been helpful for me working with hide glue.


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## shipwright

madburg, my saw frame here in Az. is made of Osage Orange and as it sits in the photo it weighs 2.85 lbs. if that helps.


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## madburg

Thanks Pual, interesting. The jarrah one I have borrowed, in the same state as your photograph weighs in at 2.9 lbs . With its knob and blade clamps it goes up to 3.5 lbs. So ........ comparatively its no where near as heavy as I thought it was going to be!! There's is scope to slim it down. Any one else got any weights for theirs?


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## madburg

My reason for getting into a chevalet is to cut some traditional boulle marquetry panels, with brass and pewter as well as wood veneer.

Research has suggested the need for metal sheet of 0 .8 mm or 1/32" thickness. Do any of you chevalat jockeys know where I might purchase some. Pieces 300mm x 300mm or 12' x 12' is what I'm after. Thanks


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## Druid

Hi Martin, One possibility for brass is your local automotive parts outlet. They usually carry brass shim stock in varying thicknesses. Here's a link to one on-line supplier . . . http://www.fastenal.com

One Pewter source in sheets would be . . . http://www.pewtersheet.co.uk


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## madburg

Wow thanks for the quick reply. All my internet searches failed to turn up your UK , so thanks. They look promising - I've emailed them and will see what they say. I'm trying to find what thickness others have used for boulle/metal work. Silas K suggests 0.8mm but others are looking at 1mm or even 1/16". Difficult to get anything definite. Then there's the problem of some write ups suggest 22g which is 0.7 mm on some conversion charts and .64 mm on others! Then we get SWG sizes which seem to be different again. I'll let you know how the UK link goes.


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## madburg

Thanks again John. Pewtersheet.co.uk is looking very good and can ship the small sizes I want rather than just a big sheet which will save on postage and cutting! Just order the tortoise shell off Amazon 465×167x1mm - good value!


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## shipwright

The metal does need to be annealed before cutting. 
The reason for using 1/16" (1.5 mm) is that that is the common thickness of traditional French sawn veneer. Sadly it is becoming harder to come by but it is just amazing material to work with.
That must be imitation tortoise shell, is it not? Could you supply a link?

Thanks


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## madburg

Pewtersheet.co.uk came up trumps with the pewter sheet, though shipping costs are more than the pewter. I got the faux tortoise shell off Amazon its Incudo Precision IN016 465×167x1mm they do quite a range of color permutations. There is also some on EBay - put in Tortoise shell for guitar pickguards There's some from China cheap as chips but relatively small, and also only .8 mm thick

I have some 1.5 ish mm saw cut veneer that I got from Constantines over your side of the ocean. I used it on the longcase clock, but thought I would try the 0.81 mm thinner metals, which should be easier to cut. Have you done some bouule with metal, and if so what size blades did you use - 0/2 or 0/5. I can sand the wood and hopefully the tortoise shell veneer down to the metals, but will have to see how it goes. Though 1 mm brass, pewter and tortoise shell would have been easier!

I got some rectangular aluminium tube today to make the arms for a new Chevalet saw frame - thought I would try a high tech solution to making a lighter frame. I was going to go for some carbon fibre rod for the arms and stick them in a wooden back piece - may still try that, its quite cheap off EBay! I doubt I'm ever going to be cutting packets of 12 sheets or will need at 18" throat so a lighter version of the whole chevalat should suite me.

I'm going to stick a pencil in the hole where the blade clamp goes today, and get it to draw on some paper so I can see how the blade travels with its double articulation. I'm interested to see if it can actually saw vertically or will always saw on an arc!


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## shipwright

The saw should cut only straight down, not an arc because you move the packet, not the sawing position.


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## madburg

The outcome of my pencil test was probably obvious, but was good for me to see for myself.

It showed that the best results with vertical sawing is with the saw blade horizontal to the centre of the bottom bar and with the bottom bar centered directly below the top bar. When the saw blade gets any more than 20 mm above or below the horizontal it starts to arc off. So starting about20 mm above the horizontal and finishing about 20 mm below the horizontal is longest vertical cut you can get before having to move the packet. So around 11/2" / 40mm is the longest vertical cut you can get.

For a right handed jockey, having the centre of the bottom bar to the right of the centre of the top bar gives a slightly longer vertical cut before you need to move the packet. I was surprised this vertical length was so long before needing to move the packet!

Guess you all knew this anyhow, but so do I now!


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## shipwright

In practice, you almost never hold the packet in one spot. It is constantly moving, adjusting so I think you will find that you won't be doing much of what you describe. The process isn't one of clamp, cut, move, reclamp, cut and move again ….
It is more of a firm pressure to prevent chatter but light enough to allow the packet to rotate and slide. Your heels should be almost motionless when you are cutting.
Also, the direction the cut is going relative to plumb (or anything else except the line) becomes irrelevant. When the blade starts to cut off plumb (usually to the right) it is however an indication that the blade is getting dull. (usually)

It's a lot easier to show than to describe in words.


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## madburg

Thanks Paul. I really need to get cutting rather than thinking.

You've said along the lines of if it isn't broke don't fix it. But have you, or any one else, tried fixing the two bars together with the top one in bushes, and then having the saw frame sliding on the bottom bar in self aligning bushes, rather than being fixed to it. Seems you wouldn't have a metal bar poking out to and fro and you wouldn't need those question mark cut outs in the up rights.


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## shipwright

Sorry no. I'm very pleased with the way it was designed originally. I can't really see any way to improve on the original except maybe make it a little easier to build by using a few modern parts that I think Gole would have used if they had been available to him.
It truly ain't broke.


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## madburg

OK inclined to agree. The traditional wooden Chevalat works well, does the job, and looks the part, and I'm about to start making one, or some thing like one! But here's a new adaptation of the concept found on a German website. The slider is along the lines I asked about, where the saw frame slides rather than the bar. It also has an aluminum saw frame, plus simple commercially available blade clamps. Not so sure about the clamping system though. What does any one else think?



















By the way the German web site is:
http://www.woodworking.de/cgi-bin/forum/webbbs_config.pl/md/read/id/64721/sbj/marqueterie-pferd/


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## shipwright

Hey, I'm a wooden boat guy, read traditionalist. I sure there are linear motion rails and bearings that would make a lot of sense but I really like using a tool that is (almost) like the ones they were using in Gole's day.


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## shipwright

Making that fine dust for mastic the easy way. (not so traditional, but I hate hand sanding)


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## shipwright

In case anyone has missed Patrick's latest blog entry, there is news on the chevalet front.
1) ...and this was the subject of a previous forum topic, our own David Clark is building chevalet wooden parts kits that work with Patrick's metal parts kits.

2) Thanks to David we now have a standardized set of terminology for chevalet parts …. in English!
I tried to post the pdf link that Patrick sent me but it doesn't work for me ....









Thanks David and Patrick.


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## madburg

Just returned form a holiday in New Zealand and came across some fine 19th century marquetry and parquetry covered furniture. They were made in the late 1800's by arguably NZ's most talented early craftsman - Anton Seuffert and his sons William, Albert & Carl. They use all New Zealand native timbers. Do a Google search for Anton Seuffert to see his work.


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## madburg

While I was away in New Zealand, all the hardware parts came for my bench top chevy. I got them all off EBay - cost about A$90 for every thing. They are all for 10mm stainless steel rod.










I've decided to us a modern approach to the hardware, with self aligning bearings, stainless steel rods and linear bearings for the saw frame. My set up will mean the saw frame *slides *along the bottom rod rather than being *attached *to it. This also means the two uprights - vertical and horizontal adjuster supports, do not need to be shaped which only weakens them. The bottom rod can therefore be cut to fit *between* the two uprights - vertical and horizontal adjuster supports, as it does not move. Thanks to David and Patrick for the terminology!

In the picture the bits are:

Top row - self aligning bearings which screw attach to the vertical and horizontal adjuster supports.

2nd row - pairs of aluminum brackets to clamp to the two stainless steel rods together - they need a couple of bolts to fix them together.

3rd row left - the ball raced linear bearings that attach to the saw frame. These are instead of the wooden pegs with holes in that stick out the back of the saw frame.

3rd row right - I got these male and female linear bearings (track rod ends) as an alternative to the linear bearings and similar to Pauls suggestion, OR to join the two rods together. In the end I decided on the linear bearings, which are so smooth and precise!

Bottom item - a bicycle seat post eccentric cam lock - its shortened and I've extended its threads. This will screws into the rear blade clamp and will be used to tighten the blade, a bit more elegant than the usual bolt.

I'll post pictures of the finished frame when its all put together


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## Sylvain

Madburg, on this German prototype,
I fail to see how to ajust the mecanism in such a way that the blade is perpendicular to the packet (pitch and yaw adjustment [if I may use those terms].)

But then everything is momentarily clamped on some machine, so a little tap here and a shim there…
Definitively not a long term solution.


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## shipwright

I'll bet the linear bearings work amazingly. I've toyed with the idea from time to time and Igus (company that makes the bearings I use) keeps sending me new bearing ideas weekly. Problem is ….... I am still a traditionalist at heart and I couldn't bring myself to change the look of the chevalet that much. The next step would be to use a linear bearing and track system….. but again (for me at least) that would destroy the look.


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## madburg

Sylvain - not sure about the horizontal/vertical adjustments for the saw frame on the 'German machine' , all I know is what's shown in the photographs. As you say shims might do the trick but as it looks like its clamped to the bench, there may be some way of adjusting the clamping system. The key thing I liked was the linear bearings, and the fact that you don't have that bottom bar pocking out from side to side as you saw, *And *the uprights are solid rather than the' question-mark' shape which must make then stronger. On mine I will have the horizontal and vertical adjustments following the 'traditional' chevy set up.

Paul - OK but you have used self aligning bearings and sort of partially 'disguised' them in a wooden holder - therefore you could do the same with the linear bearings, which would not alter the look of the chevy.

From the posts on this forum and Pauls blog, it does seem that the bearings / sliders are where some people have decided there is a different, and dare I say it, a 'better' solution - Filips ideas for instance. I suppose its what we call 'progress' and shows we area thinking about what we are doing rather than slavishly following an existing design because its easier to do so.

The overall chevy concept and how I can make it work for me is what's important. Not making one that looks the same as the one in Pierre's book, which after all is based on Pierre's collection of ideas going back over several centuries. Inputs from Patrick with the hardware, and the wooden kit from Dave have moved it on again.

Its the marquetry that comes of the chevy's, that's the real test.


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## FilipTanghe

No words ,only pictures.(it works perfect,believe me)


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## madburg

Filip - yes a picture tells a thousand words. Good to hear from you. Mine chevy is bench mounted. The usual packet clamp is bolted to the bench leg, and the saw frame structure is fixed in the vice. Self aligning bearings on the top rail, and linear bearings on the saw frame. My bits didn't require any welding though.



















The saw frame is carbon fibre tube, but I've still to make the blade clamps.


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## dclark1943

President Paul has been encouraging me to chime in to this fantastic group of artisans. I will start with my attendance at the "Woodworking in America" conference that was held in Kansas City last Sept. As the conference was looking for workbenches for the presenters, I volunteered my bench. When I delivered it, I found that it was to be used by some guy named W. Patrick Edwards - - ironic, as I had signed up for a couple sessions - one on the history of French Marquetry, and one on french polishing - both led by none other then W. Patrick Edwards the founder and director of the "American School of French Marquetry. So we met, got acquainted, and I even got his autograph!








While we were breaking down, after the conference, Patrick was talking about his activity in developing a chevy kit, working with "Plate 11" located in Ozark MO. Mainly a bench building company, they met Patrick at the previous years "woodworking in America" conference and agreed to develop a "kit" however their main line workload was so great, they were having difficulty getting it going. To shorten the story, we agreed that maybe we could work something out. 
Patrick sent me plans and hardware and I got going. My first build was two - a prototype for patrick and one for me.







I wanted to get the prototype out in timely fashion to develop some credibility with Patrick, so toward the end I pushed mine into the corner, finished the prototype kit, crated it up and shipped it.







It got there in great shape, and this is what it looked like when Patrick and Patrice opened the box:









Patrick said that it took him only two hours to assemble and be user ready. We discussed a couple of changes and ideas, which resulted in some tweaks, and of course as one builds one of these chevy's, one does learn : ) As soon as Patricks blog hit the wire, email's started coming in. I did set up a special email for convenience and tracking: [email protected] 
One person who I had talked to by email a few times was Paul Miller. Paul asked to share Patricks blog on his "Canadian School of French Marquetry" website, and encouraged me to post on the clubhouse site. 
So that's my story, I'm enthused by the first activity, as I have already sold what was to be mine, and received an order for my third build. I told Patrick I felt I needed two weeks lead time to do a normal build. And I feel that is a reasonable time window. So it should be two weeks if the order comes in with no work in progress, but will take longer if I'm in the middle of a prior order - or orders. I'm offering custom sizes, right or left handed and a variety of woods. The cost of different woods, is based off the cost of oak, which I'm using a a baseline. Located in the middle of the country, shipping should be minimal. 
For additional information, Log onto Patricks blog: http://www.wpatrickedwards.blogspot.com/2016/02/a-dream-realized-after-20-years.html
If you have questions or comments, please give me a holler @ [email protected]


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## shipwright

Best of luck with the venture Dave. The world needs more chevalets!
You couldn't have a better partner on this either. Patrick has a deep history with chevalets and of course with a French style marquetry.
Welcome to the clubhouse … don't be a stranger.


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## madburg

Echoed - the very best of luck with the enterprise, though with Paul and Patrick's enthusiastic support I doubt you'll need much luck!!


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## madburg

So my chevy is finished. Thanks to all the contributors to the Chevy club, and particularly Paul, I now have my version up an running. Well I've tested it for vertical and horizontal alignment, cut a few 'key holes', sorted out a wondering saw blade and all now seems to be OK.

My Chevy is bench mounted as I just didn't have space for a free standing traditional one. So the vice is typical design bolted to a bench leg so easily removed, and also has a a removable seat.










But I decided to use modern materials and ideas in the saw frame. So it has modern linear bearings which I must say glide really well. The arms are carbon fibre rods that fit into a block of jarrah. The front arm is fixed while the back arm can be removed and put in a different hole so it takes either 130mm or 160mm blades. Though I've found it difficult to track down 160m blades.










I also made some lighter weight blade clamps (Thanks Stan) to cut down on the overall weight of the frame. The blade has been slackened off in the picture below. I've used a lever cam from a mountain bike seat post to put the last bit of tension on the blade through the back clamp. I've still to make a knob for the front.










My 'light weight' thinking was that with a heavy traditional frame I would be lifting it slightly to take the weight off the blade to prevent it jamming. But I am still to cut some packets, so will have to see.

Thanks again to all contributors.


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## shipwright

Interesting innovations Martin. Keep us posted on how they work out.


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## jmartel

Madburg, what did you use for the blade clamps? Hard to tell from that photo.


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## madburg

The clamps are hand made from brass with a few holes drilled and tapped. I'll post a picture of them out of the frame.


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## madburg

A view of the home made clamps.



















Brass rod with a hole down one end to thread a blade down and a 4mm threaded hole down the other for some threaded rod. A further hole across the clamp to help in poking out broken bits of bladed, and another threaded hole for a thumb screw to clamp the blade. The cam lock and curved washer are cycle spares - a none slip washer helps to hold the clamps in the correct position. The carbon rods of the saw frame has aluminum inserts in the ends with a hole drilled, and then filed to take the clamps profile.


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## dclark1943

I recently (4-13-2016) posted information about the kits I am building. Unfortunately the photo of the kit laid out didn't come through on the post, so Lets try it again. I had posted a picture of the crate that was sent to Patrick Edwards, and the next photo was supposed to be this one, but for some reason, it didn't materialize like it should have. Anyway, here are the pieces laid out; 28 in all. They are well sanded, and the edges are all eased. As Andrew stated in his blog, two hours after opening the box, he was cutting. marquetry. Sorry that I didn't correct this sooner, but they say it's better late then never.


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## madburg

Well my chevy is up an running and after all the discussion and thinking, I've actually cut something on it! Yes a packet of 8 to be precise, and m first stab at boulle work. The packet had 3mm ply on the top, 2.5mm MDF on the bottom, sandwiching 3 wood veneers, a faux tortoise shell sheet, plus a brass and a pewter sheet and some suited paper.



















Loosely 'inlaid' while I try out the different combinations of the materials. Not sure yet if I will keep all six options - seems a shame to throw them away!

Certainly learnt a awful lot…....................!! The light weight frame seemed to work really well particularly the way it glides on those linear bearings. The blade adjustment became almost obsolete once I had used and broken a few 5/0 blades!! Squeezing the frame just the right amount before locking the blade ensured the tension was OK without doing up the lever cam etc. I drilled too many pilot holes at the start and actually only used two, as once bits of the pattern were cut and removed, there was one big hole into which the blade could be threaded. Clamping the work while the blade was being threaded was interesting at the start, until I started using a small clamp to lock the vice jaws together, and added a swivelling rest for the saw frame arm.

I probably cut the pattern into too many pieces which wasn't necessary as the engraving on the metals adds the detail once its laid. But this was a sort of test piece which will probably be used inside the set of boxes as part of the false floor.


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## shipwright

Good looking experiment Martin. I find I t easier to insert the blade first then clamp the packet and clamp the blade into the front clamp. .... but if you have a system that works, then that works too.
Keep us posted.


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## JR45

An impressive trial run. Seems a shame to hide them inside a box!
Jim


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## madburg

Yes Jim a shame to hide them, but here's the design glued onto the packet for the tops of the set of boxes. Its quite heavy I might add - think my left arm is going to ache some what!!










All four sides will have a design as well, so as a trial I wasn't going to start with the lid of the box which is seem most. I had thought of doing the back panel first, but I'm pleased I didn't as I've learnt so much with this trial, and any mistakes on these Boulle panels are hidden until the interior tray is removed. Well, when I get round to making the box and trays that is!!

An issue I was worried about was the different thicknesses of the materials. The tortoise shell is the thickest, then one of the wood veneers and then the brass and pewter. So to ensure the toothed side would be flat for gluing onto the substrate, I've just glued three of the panels down onto kraft paper with hide glue. Face side down on the glue, toothed side up, as the texts suggest. So this meant the face side was going to end up flat rather than the toothed side if I had pressed it - not good! So as soon as it was glued I lifted the assembled panel on its kraft paper and put the toothed side down on some polythene sheet in my glue press. I then put several layers of fine expanded polystyrene on top - so on the face side with the kraft paper on, and clamped it down. Hopefully the clamping pressure and the expanded polystyrene sheets will force the different thickness of material down onto the polythene covered base of the press so that the toothed side is flat!! We'll see!!

Oh Forgot to say yesterday after cutting the trial I've decided that I need to put a bit of padding on my chevy seat!


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## shipwright

If that doesn't work Martin, use a hot caul under the panel to soften the glue. That will give the foam a better chance.


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## madburg

Think I managed to catch the lay up and pressing of the panel onto the kraft paper before the glue had really had chance to set. It looked OK this morning, with the toothed side flat and all the humps and hollows on the face side. But I'm going to leave it in the press to make sure its set and stable.

I'm now wondering about filling the saw kerfs and cleaning the toothed side prior to gluing it onto the substrate. But I'm a little concerned about not being able to really cleaning the toothed side, with the risk of clogging the toothings with filler and so spoiling the chance of good adhesion.

The alternative, that I'm moving towards is to use pigmented epoxy (yes I know its not traditional, but it isn't affected by heat of moisture), and putting plenty on the toothed side to fill the kerfs as part of the normal gluing and pressing of the panel onto the substrate. Squeeze out should also help to fill the kerfs with out prior filling.

But that's a ways off yet. Any one got any other suggests?


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## shipwright

I would think that if you are using hide glue for your mastic and hide glue for pressing it shouldn't matter if the toothing gets filled. Also epoxys are picky about plastics. They stick very well to some and not at all to others. You would want to do some tests on the artificial shell.


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## madburg

Plodding on with the sawing - my arms get tired after a couple of hours though, and I have a light weight saw frame!! I've not started the 'masticing' yet. A couple of points I've discovered in sawing the packets.

I have emailed about pulling /pushing the saw frame. General consensus is that the chevy cuts on the push, so the teeth of the blade point away from you. Well I was always concerned about the pushing as the blade is then in some compression depending on how solid the frame is. I always have the blades in a coping saw and fret saw with the teeth pointing towards the handle so they cut on the pull, down stroke respectively.

When sawing my current packets I have the brass and pewter at the back of the packet with just the sacrificial MDF behind. So I have found that the blade tends to cut deeper at the front of the packet due to the materials being softer and also the bit of blade flex. This is not due to the frame being out of line. Any how I have found that instead of holding the front arm of the saw frame, (the one that's nearest to me) and which means I am pushing the saw, if I hold and work the rear arm to saw, which effectively means I am pulling the saw blade, I get a flatter cut, very little flex and its also easier to turn sharp corners. I do use the front of course, and most times one has to, but I'm finding the rear works probably better for precise cutting.

Now this may be because I have the brass and pewter at the back/bottom of the packet. So making a packet with these harder materials on the top might just be the way to go.

Has any one else found any other little wrinkles in use their chevy?


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## shipwright

The only time I have seen that tendency was when I was trying to go too fast and pushing it a little. It's not hard to unknowingly start to push down a little which is a no-no and will get the front a bit lower than the back. When I catch myself doing this I conciously lift a little on the saw frame and it goes away. My packets are different than yours and my saw frame is different than yours but I find that lifting a bit gives me the control I need for very intricate cuts.

... I'm surprised it is your sawing arm that's getting tired. I could saw almost all day but have to stop occasionally to rest my packet holding arm.


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## madburg

Good point about trying too hard Paul. Though I think I've got through that stage as I'm now changing blades as they start to feel blunt rather than because I've broken yet another one from trying too hard - I'm on my third dozen of 0/5 blades at the moment!!!

Guess my frame is so light that I do need to put more pressure on it, but as you said some time ago let the weight of the frame do the work. Which is why I went for a lighter frame to try and counter having to 'lift'. Oh well all good ideas etc!! But I do lift, or put less pressure on when I get to a tight corner so the cut is flat, and its then easier to turn on the sport, or go round tight corners before putting pressure on again. But the pull stroke on the rear arm does enable me to put more pressure on without the front of the cut being lower. It also has a better cutting sound and seems to give a slightly cleaner, narrower as the blade isn't flexing and certainly a flatter cut.

Any how just another element of using the chevy - there's always some thing to learn.

I've decide to go with West Systems G/flex epoxy glue, mixed with a bit of pigment and some ultra fine saw dust to 'mastic' the saw kerfs, and then g/flex to glue the panels to the substrate. Will let you know how it goes.


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## rustynails

Knew Concepts Power Saw for Marquetry?

I was just wondering if anyone has used one of these saws for marquetry. I know the Chevelet is the saw of choice on this thread (I have one as well) but due to the unique aspects of this saw I was wondering what every ones thoughts are on how it would work with wood veneer. They are pricey but about the same as a pre-built Chevelet. Here is the features of the saw per there web site. They also have an instruction sheet about the saw on the site as well:

http://www.knewconcepts.com/ncsinstructions.pdf
http://www.knewconcepts.com/index.php

1. PURE VERTICAL MOTION OF THE SAW BLADE. Easily makes cuts that scroll saws can't.
2. FAIL-SAFE. If the blade breaks, IT INSTANTLY STOPS! The cable-drive cannot function unless the blade is complete. (You cannot push a rope).
3. 2-1/2" STROKE. Uses standard jewelers blades 8/0 to 8 (5-1/8" long). Adjustable stroke for thicker material.
4. HOLD-DOWN FOOT. Adjustable for material thickness. Reduces blade breakage, as part cannot lift.
5. CARBIDE BUTTRESSES FOR BLADE. The blade is supported above and below the metal being cut. This prevents "bowing" of the blade, increasing blade life.
6. TOGGLE LINK TENSIONING OF BLADE. Finger adjustable knurled nut at upper rear of frame.
7. BLADE TILTS 45 degrees EACH WAY. TABLE STAYS STABLE.
8. VARIABLE SPEED. Uses a Foredoomª foot control (not supplied). Speeds: ZERO to 160 STROKES PER MINUTE. The slower speeds allow the blade to dissipate heat, increasing life.
9. CLAMPS TO BENCH WITH TWO HAND-KNOBS. Easily removable when finished.
10. 8" deep throat.


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## madburg

I've looked at these, and yes they are expensive plus shipping and import duties to Australia makes them even more expensive, so I didn't purchase one.

I have done a fair amount marquetry with a scroll saw, a hand held fret saw and now on my 'new' chevalat. The scroll saw vibrated too much, hence I went to the fret saw. The fret saw was OK for conical/angle cutting when making up a single pattern/design, but for multiples of the same design I decided to try a chevalat for its near perfect horizontal cut. Its working OK but holding the packet in the vertical position while sawing isn't as easy as when its horizontal and flat on a scroll saw table. It will be even harder when I come to 'clamping' bigger/heavier pieces. I'm also finding that the pushing action of the blade in the chevalat means you are compressing the blade which means it flexes and doesn't always provide a good clean cut, which also means the kerf can become a bit wider than the actual saw blade due to its flex. I'm over coming this to some extent by using/holding the back arm of the saw frame which essentially means I'm pulling the blade through - this does seem a whole lot better. BUT it could be the way I'm constructing my current packets which have brass and pewter at the back of the packets. Plus mine is a light weight saw frame even though its made from carbon fibre - see above, so it could be flexing more than the traditional wooden frame. BUT given all this the chevalet is working.

Now what I liked about the Knewconcepts is that its takes the smaller blades - I currently us 5/0. Its throat is deep enough for what I would be doing. The work packet is in the horizontal position, as with a fret sawing, so with a foot operated power/speed switch it means you have two hands available to hold and maneuver the packet. And yes to all things they list!! I'm also finding the dust sticking to the vertical packet in the chevalat needs almost as much constant blowing away, as a horizontal packet - though I could set up and aquarium air pump to do this as I had on my scroll saw. Could be the faux tortoise shell that is near the front of the packet I'm sawing which sticks to the paper pattern though!

I sort of wish I had convinced myself, justified the expense and bought one. Being traditional isn't important to me, its the end product that I'm interested in.


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## dclark1943

Good Morning Marquetarian's ! Interesting reading about the "Knewconcepts" saw, and also Madburgs Modern approach to the chevy. All good stuff, as idea's and progress are never ending. Kudo's to all who push the boundries of what can be done and how to do it. I guess we wouldn't be where we are today without progressive thinkers. Being relatively new to this field, I tend to watch and listen to try and fill in all the gaps in my knowledge of veneer, glue, saws, techniques, the history and the future of this "classic" field of marquetry. I like the quote on Patrick Edwards home page: "Ici nous sauvons le passe pour le futur" - - Here we save the past for the future. There is a certain feel about the historical beginnings of this art and its tools. and I find it interesting that this art, and its tools; like the Chevalet, with it's beginnings in the late 1600's early 1700's can still be in use today - - and with few changes ! If you would have asked me two years ago about marquetry and the chevalet you would have gotten a blank stare, however Meeting Patrick Edwards and the ensuing chain of events, and I now find myself pretty involved with the world of marquetry and the Chevalet. To date I've built a prototype of the Chevy for Patrick, another for myself that lasted less then a month before it was sold to an Ebenista in Kansas! Built and delivered one to Japan, and am halfway through another that goes to Texas. Whoda thunk I'd end up building traditional timber chevy's Certainly not me, but I'm finding that Many who appreciate marquetry also appreciate the traditional chevy. I guess the reason for my post this morning is to let all the folks who are interested in Marquetry know that I'm out here doing my thing, and if I can ever be of help, give me a holler. In the meantime, I guess I'll get back in the shop, where this little project is awaiting : ) Have a Great Day!


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## WPatrick

I have been following this thread off and on. I am well known as the person who introduced the "chevalet" to North America after my time in Paris with Dr. Ramond. I am pleased to see it has created a following.

I think that original thinking is fine, but I cannot see the reason for trying to "improve" the traditional tool, which has worked for centuries.

One of the problems I see with madburg's efforts (pulling from the back arm, blade cutting a wide kerf, etc) is the result of flexing in the arms of the saw. Using aluminum and carbon fibre arms doesn't work. It looks "high tech" but, trust me, simple beech, ash or oak is the way to go.

Wood frame saws are fairly light and stiff. They allow blade tension to be set by pulling the arms together. They do not flex up and down during cutting. They can be made easily in different sizes.

Also, there is a reason the saw is fixed to a sliding rod and not sliding on a fixed arm. Since the saw frame is a lever arm it needs a longer "arm" (the rod itself) to work smoothly. This would be much more obvious as the length of the saw frame approaches the maximum throat depth (28"). At that size, the saw would easily bind unless it was fixed to a long sliding rod.

It is not realistic to saw marquetry pulling the frame from the back arm. The reason the chevalet cuts so precisely is that the push stroke allows the worker to drive the blade to the line. Just like you use a hand saw to push the blade up to the line.

I met David Clark at WIA and cannot express how perfect his chevalet kits are. They are superior to any I have built or any I have purchased from France. He has faithfully stuck to the traditional design and the results are amazing.

Please, don't waste time trying to make your own. Buy a kit from him and get to work making marquetry.

PS: I sell the longer (16cm) blades in two types (escargot and pueblo) in the normal 2/0 size.

Patrick


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## stefang

Well said.


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## dbray45

Patrick -

Well said but I have to say that making your own chevalet from scratch (I have the parts and materials but no space), to me, is half the equation. Good or bad, it gives you an appreciation for the process and the result.


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## rustynails

I bought a saw frame from David Clark about 2 months ago and I can collaborate what Patrick states about his quality of build.

Patrick I know the Chevalet's are great for cutting marquetry but my question about the Knew Concepts Power Saw are just out of curiosity and was just wondering how well they would work being they state they cut a pure vertical motion of the saw blade. I believe something like a crossbow saw.


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## WPatrick

I have consulted with Brian Meek over the years about his tools and my application. It is clear that his market is for jewelers who sit and cut very small objects with great precision. In fact, I also cut small objects, but normally much larger packets, so the throat depth becomes critical.

There is a larger issue for me. Consider the mass of the packet and the mass of the blade. Do you get more control by pushing the blade against the packet or the packet against the blade? This goes back to the SAPFM essay I wrote a decade ago, "Form Follows Process."

I am a traditional wood worker. That means, by definition, I want to hold and control the tool and work it with skill against the material. I embrace the "workmanship of risk" and reap the rewards of mastering my tool.

Also, I think the Knew Concept is, by definition, "high tech" and I walked away from technology in 1973 when I retired from my position in high energy particle physics.

Finally, the chevalet is the only system I know of which uses a horizontal blade and vertical packet. Everything else I've seen is a vertical blade and horizontal packet. I prefer the advantages of the chevalet in this regard.


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## Longcase

When I started reading this latest discussion about the Knewconcept saw ,I thought you were talking about there titanium fret saw ,until I saw "rustynails" link. Quite a design.
But I am also a "partial" traditionalist ( I do own a table saw and jointer amonger other power tools) and I built a "chevy" to Pierre Ramonds design years ago after visiting Yannick Chastang in England ,Yannick was kind enough to give me an overview on how it worked.









I used the chevy for quite a few projects which turned out o.k., but I have to say it sits neglected in the corner of the workshop now.I now prefer to use a foot powered jig saw.



















It is interesting madburg has the some of the same concerns that I had.

So here are the reasons I prefer the foot saw , number one being that if I sit at the chevy for more than half an hour my back aches, whereas I can stand at the jig saw for hours at a time.
Other things I prefer are : I am not holding the weight of the package, the table is,
Control of the package is with two hand now.
I do not loose very small pieces as I have a very thight throat around the blade and they stay on the table.
When I built the saw a lot of time and effort went into making sure that the top and bottom blade holders/adjusters were in line with each other, therefore no further adjustment is needed to make sure that everything is cutting square.
I copied the design after watching this youtube video 
Just my preference
All the best
Keith in Vancouver


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## shipwright

Thanks for bringing your input to the discussion Patrick. No one knows better the advantages and virtues of the chevalet. I too, although I do use power tools, am a traditionalist at heart. (Look at the gaff rig on my sailboat) Whatever the discussion about saws and methods, I like the feel of doing things very much the way they were when the great artisans were seated on their chevalets.
I do think, however that there is much to be gained by building your own chevalet whether from a kit or from scratch.
That said there are many people to whom the availability of a ready made saw will be a boon. Not all aspiring marqueteurs are accomplished woodworkers. I certainly wish David much success with his venture. I know that anything he builds will be excellent.


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## madburg

Pleased to have helped to generate a bit more discussion on this fascinating topic, and good to see Patrick participating again. My chevalat with its part carbon fibre saw frame does actually work, be it pushing the front arm or back arm, flexing or not. I am learning to work within the limitations of my chevy, though I agree with Patrick that it could be frame flex causing me some issues.

But I guess we all learn to work within the limitations of the tools and skills we have, as we try to push their boundaries, and search for excellence in the outcomes we make. "If it is not broken, don't fix it", and "don't re-invent the wheel" comes to mind. I like Keith's "partial" traditionalist phrase. I think we are all that - its the level of partiality or impartiality that makes us different ….... total luddites or modernists!

Any how this is the outcome of cutting just me second ever packet on my 'high-tech' my chevy…........ 'trust me' it does work!










Keith's foot powered jig saw looks good and addressees the concerns we both had. Interesting that his Chevy "sits neglected in the corner". But I would still not have room for something so large. Moving a foot up and down to control a variable speed electric foot switch on a Knewconcepts saw, probably requires as much skill and finesse as the treadle on Keiths saw.


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## JoeLyddon

*Keith's treadle saw* looks pretty good to me… seems to give more Cutting Control with less fatigue… thus, being able to last for a longer session of cutting…

The blade alignment sounds real good too, removing an always present problem! Awesome!

I presume that the table can tilt with great accuracy too?

The operating position looks more comfortable… I think I'd like to be sitting on a comfortable Stool.  ...

I suppose the changing of the blade from hole, cutting, to hole, etc. etc. is also an EASY accurate process?
Special blades required?

I guess there are good plans / instructions to study & use? ...

It all looks so nice… BUT, when all is said & done, I don't think my eyes could stand working with so many SMALL pieces!


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## dbray45

I have tried a vertical (scroll) saw and I lost more pieces than I kept - Salvation Army loves me. I do have power tools and use I them. I also have many hand tools, a couple of old mitre boxes and lots of hand saws, most of them very sharp (they can compete with my skill saw). If someone were to offer me CNC machine, I would sell it to get some hand tools that are on my wish list.

Power tools have their place, if I were a production shop, I would do things differently (at least for the production stuff). For my entertainment, I love to finish with the hand tools.

Many people do not share my views and that is great. The idea that everyone can pick and choose what and how they built, carve, inlay, etc… is a marvelous thing - as long as they pass it to others so the crafts do not get lost. That would be very bad.

Do the best you can, strive for excellence and have fun.


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## stefang

I have a lot of sympathy for both those who maintain the integrity of the traditional methods like Patrick and also for the pioneers making variations of the chevalet like Madburg has done. I imagine that the master marquetry practitioners who originally used the donkey with only a foot powered clamp and a hand held fretsaw might have looked down on the 'new fangled' chevalet as a sort handwork skills downgrade when it came into use.

Some folks just get a lot of pleasure in trying out new ideas and after all we can only find out if the traditional chevalet design really is the ultimate marquetry tool by trying out other variations. Personally, I would be very happy to use my scroll saw if it worked anywhere near as well as my chevalet, since I would then have the benefit of a lighted magnifying glass for my old eyes and less tiring work for my bad back and arms.

Luckily it doesn't really matter which path we follow as long as we are enjoying ourselves and producing work that we are personally satisfied with. One important distinction for me is enjoying doing the work myself and not watching some computerized machine making a masterpiece. Contrary to my preference an artist might get his satisfaction just from seeing his original design being realized, as opposed to actually producing it himself.


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## madburg

Long may we continue to enjoy our craft, and have fun …............ 'what ever turns you on, baby…............'. We are all individuals and should be able to appreciate each others individuality, and unique approach to similar things.


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## madburg

Does any one have any insights on where to place the hand of the saw frame? I've already mentioned my bit about using the rear saw frame arm - which works for me, causing a pull stroke with the blade in tension, rather than push with it in compression. I'm finding it particularly good for long sweeping curves. I tend to revert to the holding the front when it gets more complex. BUT what about the more usual use of the front arm of the frame? I've seen pictures of people sawing holding it underneath, so palm up, and also over hand - palm down? Any thoughts, any one?


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## shipwright

This is the usual grip.


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## WPatrick

The "pistol grip" position that Paul posted is the traditional way of holding the saw, cutting on the push stroke, driving the blade to the line for accuracy. This position allows for the right hand to lift the weight of the saw frame, adjusting the "feed" and stroke for a smooth operation.

I cannot imagine how you would saw holding the back arm of the saw. That said, since the blade tension is established by the saw frame it is constant under use. I do not believe that holding the frame from the back and pulling the saw blade through the work is any different than holding the blade on the front arm and pushing the blade through the work, in respect to the tension of the blade. The tension of the blade, properly set at a high pitch, remains constant in both directions.

Most of my students have initial trouble with sawing simply by trying to saw forcefully, with a very heavy "feed" or downward pressure on the saw frame. Think of the blade and the size of its teeth. Very small. Start your sawing motion by lifting the frame, riding on the top of the blade, cutting nothing. Then think of dropping the saw frame only a slight amount until you hear the teeth starting to saw the wood. That is the proper "feed" for this system.

Of course, all my years (45+) of cutting with a chevalet has been done with a wood saw frame.

Another point about the photo Paul posted. The grip should be as close to the axis of the blade as possible.


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## shipwright

+1 Patrick.

With the new students in my spring class the one thing that seemed to help them "get it" was when I got them to lift about half of the weight of the saw frame. There is a real tendency to want to make the saw do the work rather than let the saw do the work.


----------



## madburg

Thanks Paul and Patrick. Your insights into sawing actions are really helpful and I'm thinking are probably a reflection of the differences in our saw frames. Mine is light weight so perhaps needs a bit more down force from me. It possibly has a bit more flex as well. But certainly on the most complex twists and turns, a lightness of touch is the way to go with it.

Are you both using the 2/0 x 160ish mm blades? I'm currently using 5/0 and the shorter 130ish mm blades, mainly because I couldn't source any 5/0 at a reasonable price in the longer length. I was hoping the finer kerf from the finer blade would reduce the need for as much 'mastic'. Though I guess there's a compromise with blades - strength, flex, width of kerf.

Perhaps the shorter length blades enable me to use the back arm of my frame easier - its nearer!! Think I said in earlier discussion that my current packets have 6 layers with the brass and pewter at the back of the packet, plus backer boards front and rear. So the hardest, most resistant materials, are at the back. So far I haven't sawn a packet with just wood veneers.

I'm starting to think that putting the brass/pewter at the front (top) of the packet would be a better arrangement. What's your experiences/views on the positioning of the brass/pewter sheets in a packet?


----------



## WPatrick

We buy blades in a large quantity from Germany, always in the 16cm length. There are two types: Pebeco and Escargot. Note that in cutting any material you must have at least 3 teeth at all times in the thickness of the material. With thicker material this is not a real problem, but we usually use Escargot blades for metal.

We use a 2/0 blade for 90% of our cutting. Finer blades just break too often and using the Classic Method (cutting piece by piece) there is never a saw kerf, no matter how big the blades are. Remember that Boulle and others at that time made their own blades and they were naturally quite thick.

we resell the blades either in dozens or gross, if interested. Postage is not a problem for these.

The Escargot is a much finer tooth pattern and cuts slower but allows for more delicate cutting. The Pebeco has what we call a "skip tooth" pattern and cuts more aggressively.

At one time in the past we used 8/0 blades for a specific project, but we were much younger then…..


----------



## WPatrick

I forgot to adress the question of pewter. Note that if the pewter is in front the pewter particles will penetrate the packet and get everywhere. Best to put them on the back layer.

Also important with large heavy packets: Always adjust the clamping jaws so that they only put pressure around the "V" slot. On either side of the "V" there should be a slight gap in the clamping closure so that the pressure is applied only at the center of the cutting area where the blade is working. This minimizes breakage since the packet pivots nicely around the blade. Use a piece of paper to check the clamping pressure. See my blog post.


----------



## madburg

Thanks Patrick for the tips and insights. I did get some 2/0 160 blades from you together with a set of blade jaws but haven't used either yet. I might get round to making a bigger saw frame to us them and your jaws. I can then try the finger/thumb grip shown in Pauls picture,which currently doesn't work for me. I think due to my lighter saw frame I do have to put some downward pressure on the blade, and so grip the frame on top with palm down.

Interesting point about the pewter, seems I got mine in the right place, but more by good luck than judgement

Off to France tomorrow with a few days in Paris at the end to check out some 'real' marquetry and Boulle work.


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## dbray45

From what I see in the pictures and what you all are saying, the sawing is much like a trombone slide smooth and gentle - let the blade do the work. Makes sense to me.


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## shipwright

*There's a new chevy* on the block. The CNC cut plywood chevalet kits are finally ready to go and just why not build a saw for cutting veneer …. from veneer?
The arm height is adjustable over a range of three inches and it will never warp.

Check out the full blog entry here.


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## madburg

Looks great!


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## shipwright

Just got a new page up on the CSFM website fully detailing the options and pricing for the new CNC kit.

http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/page13.html

This is the finished chevy in glorious plywood. (Courtesy David Brannam)










And of course there is the mahogany veneered beauty a couple of posts back.


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## Sylvain

Did you see this blog ?

I fail to see the advantages of this prototype (there is not much detail in the post either).
- the veneer packet is not pressed together (rattle?);
- the saw dust does not fall automatically because the packet is horizontal, you might have to puff to clear the drawing;
- instead of just moving the saw horizontally with just enough force to cut (maximum sensitivity), you have to lift the saw which would also be more tiring.
- what happens if you release the handle? does it come down with its own weight, continuing to cut?

At first sight, not much difference with the saw I used as a child with a wooden support with a V shaped cut in it.
What I can see on the picture:
- a vertically guided saw;
- a complicated system to rotate the blade instead of rotating the packet. (seems a gadget to me, which could provoke wrist problems when used for many hours).

Any opinion?


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## tinnman65

I could be wrong but this looks more like a tool used in the process for cutting inlay material like bone and shell. In that case it looks like a nice setup.


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## AddingtonFurniture

"I have long felt that the traditionalist approach of requiring a lawn tractor sized (and priced) sawing tool, the chevalet - exquisite and high-performance though it be - was an insurmountable hurdle for the broader popularizing of marquetry." Seems silly to me as almost every shop I walk into has large, and expensive, pieces of equipment everywhere. A chevalet takes up a few square feet in the corner of the shop, is it really that big of a deal?

If it's a similar price to their precision saw guide I could just order a full sized chevalet from Paul for the same price.

It seems that people can't help but muck with the design of a tool that already works great. If it gets more people interested in marquetry that's fantastic, but I don't really see the point when there are so many options for full sized chevalets out there.


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## rustynails

Paul the saw's look great.

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Luke I agree with your statements. Only been a fit I can see is portability like for someone that's a crafter that is on the road a lot or at shows.

Richard


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## Druid

Hi Sylvain,
I'll start off by saying that Paul's Chevalet is certainly the best approach to having a tool that will permit the production of high quality marquetry, and we can see that in Paul's work.
I have to agree with your comments and, based on my own experience with a similarly designed saw, I would like to add another comment to your observations on the saw in the blog that you gave us the link to. 
Re your question "does it come down with its own weight, continuing to cut?", the version that I used had a tension adjustment so that you could prevent the arm from dropping, but this meant that you had to work against that tension every time that you raised the blade. The unit that I am referring to can be easily built at a low cost, and uses a fret saw for the frame, and if someone wants to try *basic* marquetry before moving up to a Chevalet, the plans are available at no charge at . . .
http://www.marquetrysociety.ca/Gadgets.html
Scroll down the page to . . .
"SAW TABLE FOR 17" TUBULAR FRET SAW" 
It basically comes down to the question of what quality of marquetry someone wants to be able to create? Personally, I prefer to get the correct tool for the job. (Read that as Paul's Chevalet.)
Thanks for your comments.


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## shipwright

This is the second discussion about Knew Concepts saws here. The first dealt with their power driven model and had some interesting comments, particularly from Patrick. It started here.
This saw is a new Knew and is hand powered but many of the same points could be made regarding packet size and the like. It looks interesting to me and as the owner of one of their fret saws, I believe them to be clever and inventive people so I won't pass judgement on it without seeing it but I also won't be rushing out to get one.
In my ( aging back) opinion the chevalet has all the other saws on one important point and that is the horizontal blade that allows the operator to sit upright with a straight back and cut for hours in relative comfort.
I would make an analogy to motorcycles as well. There are some that you feel part of and some that you feel you are sitting on top of (the bikers will understand). Sitting on a chevalet, providing some of its stability with my own body weight, I feel part of it in a way I never could with a saw that was mounted to a bench that I sat in front of.

Just my opinions.


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## madburg

All interesting points. Having been off my chevy for around 7 weeks, it was interesting on my return last week to find how much my left arm ached while manipulating the packet around. It took around a week for it to get used to being help at shoulder height. Guess that wouldn't happen if the packet was horizontal but you can't have every thing, we compromise with most tools!


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## madburg

At last I have the 'boulle' panels cut out on my 'techno-chevy' completed and assembled. There are 30 panels in all which took me through a gross and a half of 2/0 blades! Thay are now ready to be glued onto my boxes. Here's the first set glued onto the sides and top.










They have a maple string and walnut boarder, and a balancing backing veneer of cherry which will be seen on the inside of the box.

So far so good. I ended up using epoxy with a black tint as the mastic to fill the saw kerfs, and then normal epoxy to glue the 'boulle' panels down onto marine ply. I then put the glued up panels through the drum sander/thicknesser to level the different materials - very fine cuts so little heat was generated - a lot quicker than scraping. The faux tortoise shell and metals sanded really well. I've now sealed the maple stringings so they don't go sludgy when I start on the fine sanding.

So ... I have some questions re the next processes.

1. Should I put the finish on the panels (I'll be using a satin polyurethane varnish), before I start to engrave the panels?
2. How fine a grit should I go down to, bearing in mind there is brass and pewter in most panels
3. I've not done engraving before and there is lots of it to do on the 5 or 6 boxes ….. any recommendations or links to engraving instructions, books, or YouTube videos?

I've had a go at engraving on the reverse sides of some panels, and found the hand held graver requires considerable skill, and its easy to slip into the adjacent piece - not good! So I've ordered some French curves and a scriber tool to try scratching the lines rather than do them free hand with a graver. Does any one have any tips with either technique, or even using an electric engraver.

I thought of filling the engraved lines with engravers wax, but it didn't seem to stay in very well on my test bits, so may try the tinted epoxy and sand it back. Again any tips or suggestions, other than hide glue and saw dust!

Thanks in anticipation …....


----------



## tinnman65

madburg that looks fantastic, I really don't know anything about engraving but I while back while I was looking into taking a I came across *GRS tools*. They have a bunch of dvd's and the one from Don Glaser is 4 hrs long for $46 US. seems like a pretty good deal for that much information. I wish you the best.


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## shipwright

Stunning work Martin.
I'm not much help on your questions as I haven't done metals yet but it would seem to me that you would need to finish last (isn't that why it's called "finish"?) and that sanding should go on until the scratches are no longer visible.
As for engraving, you are on your own I'm afraid. I've see the skill that hand engraving requires and I wouldn't go there myself.
All that said, this is going to be an amazing piece when finished. 
Thanks!


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## dbray45

You run a risk of tarnish darkening everything around the metals.

What I have done in the past - and test this for yourself on some samples and culls

Dilute the poly to 50% (oil based), you want this to soak into the work. Giving this plenty of time to dry, give it 3 more coats with the same. This should seal the wood parts so it won't discolor.

Using 1000 grit wet sand paper and mineral spirits, wet sand lightly until you get everything including the metal smooth.
Then give it another coat of poly let dry and then sand with 2000 grit wet paper and wet sand with mineral spirits.

I finish with rottenstone with mineral spirits after sanding for a serious polished finish.

The idea is to not sand into the wood but polish the metal.

I might be incligned to use laquer instead of poly, seals the metal better

Good luck


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## madburg

Thanks for your help guys. Its a bit Star Ship Enterprise - boldly going where I haven't been before.  I'd decided things needed sealing before final sanding. The sanding thicknesser was really good at sucking up the dust and didn't muddy the maple stringing, but its using 120 grit, so there's a long way to go. So yes sealing it is key before progressing further. What do you think about finishing it and applying the finish, THEN engraving it, filling the cuts, and then re-finish over the finished engraved work? Yes a lot of finishes in there!!! I'm thinking that applying filler to the engraving and sanding it back is again is going to muddy the surround unless its really well sealed and properly 'finished'.


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## Longcase

Madburg.
Check out this video by Yannick Chastang made for the V&A. This may give you some idea of how to engrave and fill afterwards.
Keith


----------



## Longcase

Forgot to put in the link
Keith


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## madburg

OK so I've now done some engraving of one of the boulle panels, another steep learning curve. Having looked at all the engraving options; hand pushed, hand hammering, and pneumatic hand engraving, I went down the pneumatic route. Its really similar to hand pushing a graver, except that you get pneumatic assistance, which almost turns it into hammer engraving, but with far more control. I found with just a hand pushed graver it was very difficult to keep to the limits of my lines, which would have resulted in a mess on the real panels, after all that work on them. Lots of research on equipment, and despite some advice against it on a couple of Engravers web sites, I went for a cheap and cheerful Chinese pneumatic Graver mate which cost me around US$200 from AliExpress, compared to US$2000 for a Lindsay or GRS setup. Fitting a $2 motor/fan speed controller gave me a bit more speed variation, over and above that obtained by the usual way of altering the air pressure. I made some graver sharpening templates, as the profile of the graver is quite critical to success, and a turntable for the box panels using a 'Party Susan' bearing.

So this is the first panel. It now needs the engraving to be filled with black, which I will do with a matt black lacquer paint, and then a final sand down and varnishing.










Further to my last post I did finish the panels down to 1200 grit, though the bandings around the boulle did muddy somewhat due to the extremely fine pewter and brass dust. But I can selectively sand this back to get the colour. I now need to trying engraving faux tortoise shell and possibly the wood, which I can fill with gold colour, so I can enhance the other four colour combinations of panels.


----------



## apprentice

> OK so I ve now done some engraving of one of the boulle panels, another steep learning curve. Having looked at all the engraving options; hand pushed, hand hammering, and pneumatic hand engraving, I went down the pneumatic route. Its really similar to hand pushing a graver, except that you get pneumatic assistance, which almost turns it into hammer engraving, but with far more control. I found with just a hand pushed graver it was very difficult to keep to the limits of my lines, which would have resulted in a mess on the real panels, after all that work on them. Lots of research on equipment, and despite some advice against it on a couple of Engravers web sites, I went for a cheap and cheerful Chinese pneumatic Graver mate which cost me around US$200 from AliExpress, compared to US$2000 for a Lindsay or GRS setup. Fitting a $2 motor/fan speed controller gave me a bit more speed variation, over and above that obtained by the usual way of altering the air pressure. I made some graver sharpening templates, as the profile of the graver is quite critical to success, and a turntable for the box panels using a Party Susan bearing.
> 
> So this is the first panel. It now needs the engraving to be filled with black, which I will do with a matt black lacquer paint, and then a final sand down and varnishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Further to my last post I did finish the panels down to 1200 grit, though the bandings around the boulle did muddy somewhat due to the extremely fine pewter and brass dust. But I can selectively sand this back to get the colour. I now need to trying engraving faux tortoise shell and possibly the wood, which I can fill with gold colour, so I can enhance the other four colour combinations of panels.
> 
> - madburg


Really nice work.

Please could you show the engraver you purchased with a link.

Thanks in advance.


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## madburg

This is the machine










Aliexpress website is *www.aliexpress.com*

You then need some 3mm HSS, tungsten or cobolt, square engraver bar to sharpen into your graver. Use a sharpening template which you can copy from here, (or I can send you a full size drawing).

*www.engravingschool.com/private/Lindsay%20Sharpener.htm*

This guy also sells a US$2000 version of what I've got - fine if you are going into it big time. Though I've said it before you learn to use what you have - e.g. me and my 'high tech' Chevy. You also need a 'party Susan' platter/vice to fix your work to, so you can rotate it. That's because you rotate the panel to the graver tip, rather than pushing and rotating your hand.

I can really recommend these two sites *www.engravingschool.com * and *www.igraver.com* You need a load of time to read, watch the tutorial videos, learn, and do some practice plates. You'll see from the earlier post in early December that its taken me a couple of months to get this far!!!

Before engraving I finished my panels and sealed the wood with several coast of polyurethane which I then sanded back down up to 1200 grit, removing all traces from the metals.

You get the hang of it quite quickly. The picture showed my first panel and I'm already much better, in terms of fine lines and varying the thickness of the lines. It's interesting switching between the pewter and brass as the graver is like a hot knife through butter on the pewter, and then you have to slow down and let the graver do the work on the brass!

Its so much easier than I imagined, my original thought of hand-push engrave the 5 boxes, was something I wasn't looking forward to. The pneumatic assistance is a piece of cake!!

Just ask Paul if you need more.


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## shipwright

Great work and perseverance Martin. Engraving is a long way off for me if I ever even get around to it but if and when I do i will be looking up your posts. I like your attitude and your creative approach to problem solving.


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## madburg

Paul - with your skills and experiences I think you are a lot nearer to doing some engraving than I was at the start of December last year when I started to seriously look into it.

Here's a picture of the panel I did yesterday. Much better than the one above and lightly sanded so the engraving is partly filled with dust, rather than the more definitive black lacquer that I will eventually use. Its on the party Susan platter with the graver handpiece at the top.










Another one with the GraverMate machine on the bench. You can see the extra knob on the front of the machine which is the US$2 speed controller for its air pulsing motor. There's the magnifying loupe partly visible on top of the GraverMate, and the foot control on the floor, which is the on/off as well as yet another speed controller. Though super sensitive in terms of speed control so needs a very light foot!


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## shipwright

Too many plans and ideas, too little time. .....


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## apprentice

> This is the machine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aliexpress website is *www.aliexpress.com*
> 
> You then need some 3mm HSS, tungsten or cobolt, square engraver bar to sharpen into your graver. Use a sharpening template which you can copy from here, (or I can send you a full size drawing).
> 
> *www.engravingschool.com/private/Lindsay%20Sharpener.htm*
> 
> This guy also sells a US$2000 version of what I ve got - fine if you are going into it big time. Though I ve said it before you learn to use what you have - e.g. me and my high tech Chevy. You also need a party Susan platter/vice to fix your work to, so you can rotate it. That s because you rotate the panel to the graver tip, rather than pushing and rotating your hand.
> 
> I can really recommend these two sites *www.engravingschool.com * and *www.igraver.com* You need a load of time to read, watch the tutorial videos, learn, and do some practice plates. You ll see from the earlier post in early December that its taken me a couple of months to get this far!!!
> 
> Before engraving I finished my panels and sealed the wood with several coast of polyurethane which I then sanded back down up to 1200 grit, removing all traces from the metals.
> 
> You get the hang of it quite quickly. The picture showed my first panel and I m already much better, in terms of fine lines and varying the thickness of the lines. It s interesting switching between the pewter and brass as the graver is like a hot knife through butter on the pewter, and then you have to slow down and let the graver do the work on the brass!
> 
> Its so much easier than I imagined, my original thought of hand-push engrave the 5 boxes, was something I wasn t looking forward to. The pneumatic assistance is a piece of cake!!
> 
> - madburg


You really have an eye for quality and the patience to go with it. I have the GRS ball vice already but simply could not get near the rest of their gear, but this Chinese version looks the biz and is affordable in every way.

I have cut brass and other metals on my version of the plywood chevvy with some success, but mainly for instrument parts and a little wood veneer and now I can move up to the next stage with the gravermate.

You can see some of them here

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?263523-Instrumental-Insemination-Equipment&p=1511124#post1511124

I really like the duality of brass and pewter in your work, it reminds me of William Morris and his attention to detail in the early craft genre.

Thanks very much for the links and tips and I will go get one of those machines soon.


----------



## madburg

Hi apprentice, or is it Joe? There are some videos on YouTube by Shaun Hughes (I think) on some other modifications to the GraverMate - though I think its an earlier version than mine. There's also videos of making a machine from scratch. An interesting bit of brass wear you have made by the way!!!!


----------



## apprentice

> Hi apprentice, or is it Joe? There are some videos on YouTube by Shaun Hughes (I think) on some other modifications to the GraverMate - though I think its an earlier version than mine. There s also videos of making a machine from scratch. An interesting bit of brass wear you have made by the way!!!!
> 
> - madburg


Hi MB

Did you cut out the pewter and brass on your chevvy, with the metals in with the wood pack?

I like the idea of making my own graver, please could you point me towards the video of how to make the machine, I'm an engineer and have most of the tools to make one.

Many name is David Daniel some call me By the middle name but either would be fine.

Those brass items are for my own bee keeping hobby, I truly saved myself about 3 grand in the process.

Thanks.


----------



## madburg

Hi David,

Yes my panels were cut on my Chevy with the metals at the back of the packet, separated by suet paper. My packet starting at the back was - MDF, brass, suet paper, pewter, suet paper, faux tortoise shell, jarrah veneer, black veneer, jarrah burl veneer, 3mm plywood. See my earlier posts on this forum for more, or just ask.

RE the engraving machine - here's a few YouTube Engraver machine links, there are loads on there - just put in engraving. There's quite a few Russian posts as well, but I don't read Cyrillic script!! You do of course need the thing connected up to a compressor. I did try a little portable pneumatic car tyre pump, which worked OK and gave enough pressure, but I couldn't do with it running non-stop, so I borrowed a compressor.

I thought about making one, but the price for a GraverMate off Aliexpress - I see the cheapest at the moment is only GBP143 including postage, so probably less than buying all the bits!

The Youtube links













Madburg


----------



## apprentice

> Hi David,
> 
> Yes my panels were cut on my Chevy with the metals at the back of the packet, separated by suet paper. My packet starting at the back was - MDF, brass, suet paper, pewter, suet paper, faux tortoise shell, jarrah veneer, black veneer, jarrah burl veneer, 3mm plywood. See my earlier posts on this forum for more, or just ask.
> 
> RE the engraving machine - here s a few YouTube Engraver machine links, there are loads on there - just put in engraving. There s quite a few Russian posts as well, but I don t read Cyrillic script!! You do of course need the thing connected up to a compressor. I did try a little portable pneumatic car tyre pump, which worked OK and gave enough pressure, but I couldn t do with it running non-stop, so I borrowed a compressor.
> 
> I thought about making one, but the price for a GraverMate off Aliexpress - I see the cheapest at the moment is only GBP143 including postage, so probably less than buying all the bits!
> 
> The Youtube links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Madburg
> 
> - madburg


Yes the graver are cheap, I have found one for 129.00 and that would be difficult to match right enough, at that price you can buy two machines for the price of a single GRS palm. I have a small compressor that I used only once sitting in the store so now to buy one of those Chinese knock offs and see how it goes.

The metals at the back, got you.

Had a quick look on the tube and you need a lifetime to watch all those top guys at work, some of their work is outstanding, credit to them.

Thanks again.

David.


----------



## shipwright

Staying off your hands and knees:
A trick for tiny parts.


----------



## Sylvain

On 6-10-2016, Longcase showed his foot powered saw.

In an old video, you will see such a saw where they added a bellows to automatically blow the sawdust.
Something which is not needed with the chevalet, where the packet is vertical.

see second video here starting at about 1'19"

You will notice that the apprentice is wasting energy in making rapid short strokes in contrast to what does the man showing him how to do.


----------



## shipwright

You are right Sylvain but even the first cutter is only using the middle maybe 2" of the blade. It is all the saw will do I guess. On my chevalet I use ~6 1/4" blades and when I'm in the zone I'm using almost all the teeth, probably 4 1/2" or better. The longer the stroke, the smoother the cut. Another reason I love the chevy.


----------



## apprentice

> Hi David,
> 
> Yes my panels were cut on my Chevy with the metals at the back of the packet, separated by suet paper. My packet starting at the back was - MDF, brass, suet paper, pewter, suet paper, faux tortoise shell, jarrah veneer, black veneer, jarrah burl veneer, 3mm plywood. See my earlier posts on this forum for more, or just ask.
> 
> RE the engraving machine - here s a few YouTube Engraver machine links, there are loads on there - just put in engraving. There s quite a few Russian posts as well, but I don t read Cyrillic script!! You do of course need the thing connected up to a compressor. I did try a little portable pneumatic car tyre pump, which worked OK and gave enough pressure, but I couldn t do with it running non-stop, so I borrowed a compressor.
> 
> I thought about making one, but the price for a GraverMate off Aliexpress - I see the cheapest at the moment is only GBP143 including postage, so probably less than buying all the bits!
> 
> The Youtube links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Madburg
> 
> - madburg


Hi David

Its been a while since we talked about engraving and chevy's, I now have two fully working versions for cutting veneer and my own homemade engraving unit which works pretty well.

https://www.bitchute.com/video/8NDrMhQbPd7k/

I have been kept busy doing other projects since I posted last, but will be doing some marquetry cutting during the remain of the winter months, here is my version of what is known as a Nodding Donkey in action which I prefer to the other trad chevy I made, as it enables the user to have two hands free, especially when doing silver/brass sheetwork.

https://www.bitchute.com/video/M9mCPJUfIcLs/


----------



## madburg

Good to see another post on the Clubhouse pages. Well done with your 'machines' I look forward to seeing the results from them. From my experience with chevy's and engravers, making or buying the 'machines' is one thing, but using them to produce something worth while is a whole different ball game. I hope you succeed.

Martin 
WA


----------



## apprentice

> Good to see another post on the Clubhouse pages. Well done with your machines I look forward to seeing the results from them. From my experience with chevy s and engravers, making or buying the machines is one thing, but using them to produce something worth while is a whole different ball game. I hope you succeed.
> 
> Martin
> WA
> 
> - madburg


I will show what comes of my endevours as they happen, I have studdied hard and long but your right, the proofe is in the end product, this will compliment the making of the machines all the more.

Thanks for the encouragement.


----------



## apprentice

> You are right Sylvain but even the first cutter is only using the middle maybe 2" of the blade. It is all the saw will do I guess. On my chevalet I use ~6 1/4" blades and when I'm in the zone I'm using almost all the teeth, probably 4 1/2" or better. The longer the stroke, the smoother the cut. Another reason I love the chevy.
> 
> - shipwright


Hi Paul

I hope you are well and recovering from your recent problems,

On my Noding Donkey and or Chevy, I can quickly change the stroke in motion by depressing the foot pedal at a different angle and make use of the blade nearer to the end posts, this sometimes helps to prevent the blade from bowing in the middle section, do you ever do this on the trad type of chevy too?

Doing this keeps the blade more taught when going around tight corners, especially when piercing silver and brass sheet and uses all of the blade more effectively, do you do this kind of action yourself?


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## shipwright

> On my Noding Donkey and or Chevy, I can quickly change the stroke in motion by depressing the foot pedal at a different angle and make use of the blade nearer to the end posts, this sometimes helps to prevent the blade from bowing in the middle section, do you ever do this on the trad type of chevy too?
> 
> Doing this keeps the blade more taught when going around tight corners, especially when piercing silver and brass sheet and uses all of the blade more effectively, do you do this kind of action yourself?
> 
> - apprentice


I always try to use the whole blade so that all the teeth dull at the same rate and so that my cuts will be smoother. I sometimes notice the blade deflecting a little but it is because I'm pushing too hard. I try not to do that. The best cutting happens when the pressure is very light and the saw gets to do the work.

I believe the usual name for the type of saw you are using is a frame saw. (One of several types that share the name).


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## apprentice

> On my Noding Donkey and or Chevy, I can quickly change the stroke in motion by depressing the foot pedal at a different angle and make use of the blade nearer to the end posts, this sometimes helps to prevent the blade from bowing in the middle section, do you ever do this on the trad type of chevy too?
> 
> Doing this keeps the blade more taught when going around tight corners, especially when piercing silver and brass sheet and uses all of the blade more effectively, do you do this kind of action yourself?
> 
> - apprentice
> 
> I always try to use the whole blade so that all the teeth dull at the same rate and so that my cuts will be smoother. I sometimes notice the blade deflecting a little but it is because I'm pushing too hard. I try not to do that. The best cutting happens when the pressure is very light and the saw gets to do the work.
> 
> I believe the usual name for the type of saw you are using is a frame saw. (One of several types that share the name).
> 
> - shipwright





> On my Noding Donkey and or Chevy, I can quickly change the stroke in motion by depressing the foot pedal at a different angle and make use of the blade nearer to the end posts, this sometimes helps to prevent the blade from bowing in the middle section, do you ever do this on the trad type of chevy too?
> 
> Doing this keeps the blade more taught when going around tight corners, especially when piercing silver and brass sheet and uses all of the blade more effectively, do you do this kind of action yourself?
> 
> - apprentice
> 
> I always try to use the whole blade so that all the teeth dull at the same rate and so that my cuts will be smoother. I sometimes notice the blade deflecting a little but it is because I'm pushing too hard. I try not to do that. The best cutting happens when the pressure is very light and the saw gets to do the work.
> 
> I believe the usual name for the type of saw you are using is a frame saw. (One of several types that share the name).
> 
> - shipwright





> On my Noding Donkey and or Chevy, I can quickly change the stroke in motion by depressing the foot pedal at a different angle and make use of the blade nearer to the end posts, this sometimes helps to prevent the blade from bowing in the middle section, do you ever do this on the trad type of chevy too?
> 
> Doing this keeps the blade more taught when going around tight corners, especially when piercing silver and brass sheet and uses all of the blade more effectively, do you do this kind of action yourself?
> 
> - apprentice
> 
> I always try to use the whole blade so that all the teeth dull at the same rate and so that my cuts will be smoother. I sometimes notice the blade deflecting a little but it is because I'm pushing too hard. I try not to do that. The best cutting happens when the pressure is very light and the saw gets to do the work.
> 
> I believe the usual name for the type of saw you are using is a frame saw. (One of several types that share the name).
> 
> - shipwright


Yes a frame saw, the Nodding Donkey is a local name I came across in my research.

I will make another frame type later this year to another pattrn I came across, this version uses a much smaller pedal and is powered by depressing your heel instead of the whole pedal as seen on my first model, here one uses much less energy and depressing the heel is a more natural motion as to the whole of the ankle.

I have also designed this table top model which is driven by a small foot pedal and light chain, this will be ideal for smaller delicate sections I think,

https://www.bitchute.com/video/9LeHfOE1DIy0/


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## madburg

Your table top saw is very similar to the New Concepts idea, which I liked when I was investigating options.

"https://www.knewconcepts.com/Precision-power-saw.php" but expensive to import into Australia at the time.

I also liked this old one that you may have comer across …......


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## apprentice

> Your table top saw is very similar to the New Concepts idea, which I liked when I was investigating options.
> 
> "https://www.knewconcepts.com/Precision-power-saw.php" but expensive to import into Australia at the time.
> 
> I also liked this old one that you may have comer across …......
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> - madburg


I have looked at the New Concept table saw and my version is very similar to what I drew up in Solidworks before their product was on the market, some time before actually, the older pictures you shared here are also similar to some of Da Vinci's drawings, so the old saying rings true about ideas under the sun.










I have also maade several of these Victorian based long arm fretsaws which work pretty well.

I am currently working on a hand driven 4 - 1 pantograph veneer cutter.

Thanks for those old pictures.


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