# Mini-Review



## craftsman on the lake

I've got the 70's version of this saw. I also had a HF one for awhile. I used the HF one to rough cut stuff. It worked. The craftsman one though is much more accurate and true. I eventually sold off the HF one to save space and even though having a large rough cut blade was nice it wasn't all that useful all the time. The saw you have will do the job with the correct blade. Very cost effective actually.


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## dustyal

I have this saw and agree with your assessment. I did get the Rikon fence for it, but haven't gphad a chance to use it.

It was a very good value for me.


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## RogerBean

Good review. I have the 12" version of this Craftsman saw and it's my go-to saw for boxes and small work. After two years it has given no trouble at all and performs very well, as long as it's not challenged beyond it's capacity. I'm really happy with it. I think these Craftsman saws are highly underrated. And really great value. My 20" Delta bandsaw is now dedicated to re-sawing (bigger than 3 or 4 inches thick) and other larger stuff. My 12" saw even came with a fully adjustable fence.

Roger


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## Puffball

I couldn't find any 12" new. There were a bunch on Craig's list, but the ones I could find were a bit abused and not all that cheap for something used.

Deciphering all the bandsaw reviews can make ones head spin.

The other thing that swayed me to buy it from Sears was for a $40 I could get a 3-year extended warranty. Which gave me piece of mind in knowing that if the performance started to deteriorate (i.e. vibrate, motor burn out) that I could get it fixed or replaced.


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## stefon

Is this the saw with two speeds for aluminum/wood?


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## Puffball

Yes - Its the two speed. A low speed for metal and high speed for wood.


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## NormG

I have the 12" version and have so since it was first released. Great saw no issues, after the table was leveled. I just recently had to replace the drive belt, but nothing else. It was very very tight removing the bottom wheel and re-installing it. I had to use a putty knife to allow it to slide past the frame, so as to not damage the wheel rubber


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## RHolcomb

I have had this saw for about 2 years. Overall, it's a good saw for the money. I bought it because it was a Rikon 10-320 knockoff and Rikon is a pretty good name in band saws. After 2 years I have had one issue. I had a lower wheel bearing go bad and had to replace it.

Here's what I like about the saw

1. It's pretty quiet
2. It has a full 8" of resaw capability
3. Dust collection is pretty good
4. Rikon rail fence 13-900 fits although it has to be shimmed about 1/8" as the Craftsman table is a little thinner than the Rikon table.
5. It's a 2 speed saw. I don't cut metal so it's not that big of a deal to me but would be for others that cut both wood and metal.

Here's what I don't like about the saw

1. Changing blades can be a struggle. When trying to remove/install a blade, they tend to get hung up on the narrow opening on both sides of the housing as well as the interior bolts that are present in the housing. I've seen some saws that have a magnetic door to make the install/removal much easier.
2. It has a large cast iron table.
3. Slot in table is in line with the blade. This is not a problem if you don't have a railed fence (the blade doesn't need to be turned to install/remove it) but if you do, the rail needs to be removed when you change a blade.
4. The blade guides need 2 tools to adjust. A Hex key and a half inch socket or wrench.
5. The upper guide has some play in it even after it's tightened down so it's hard to get a real good bearing placement.
6. It doesn't have a quick tension release, just a knob to turn that could be a little larger for my liking.

Keep in mind, this is a $399 saw so most of my complaints aren't a big deal because a more expensive saw doesn't have these issues. Sometimes you have to trade what you really would like for what you are willing to spend.


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## crawdaddy

I have had this same saw for about a year and have the same assessment as Rob does. I don't have an aftermarket fence for it because of the slit the blade is removed through, I don't want to remove and install the rails. I also wish the table was easier to reposition. The blade tensioner knob needs a suicide knob so we can turn it with out letting go of it. What sucks about any band saw is blade size, 99 and 3/4 inch who else makes it? The local woodcraft store is good about having blades for it but haven't found a metal blade yet.


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## Puffball

I recently bought the Rikon fence for it. It was easy to install and seems to work well enough. It can be easily removed in about 30 seconds. So I don't think it will make blade changing any harder.

For the 99 3/4" blade, I found I could easily order them online. So for me that isn't a big deal. But I would agree, it would be better if Woodcraft stocked them for the day when a blade breaks and I can't wait a few days for one to come via UPS.


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## RHolcomb

As an add on to my previous post, I have decided to sell my Craftsman Band Saw and upgrade to one with better features. The Craftsman saw is a fine saw for the hobbyist that doesn't really use a band saw a lot. Even though it has 8" of resaw capacity, you can't really cut heavy stock or logs with it. It's just too light weight and not beefy enough. I also fight and curse every time I change blades and although I thought the same thing as Matt about it not being a big deal to remove the fence when changing blades, it has become a pain in the neck after these two years. As for the 99 3/4" blades, I bought mine from Carter. They sell good blades as do many other manufacturers. Everyone has their favorite place to buy blades but I didn't have any problems finding them. One thing I do know, whichever band saw I end up buying I will make sure it has many positive reviews and all the features I want because I want it to be my last band saw!


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## Mike3ID

From what I know this
Craftsman BAS 350.
General international #90-120
Rikon 10-320/321
As well as several others all have their pedigree in the Minimax 14" that they tried to come out with, but they are all released with different levels of trim.

MiniMax abandoned the project for whatever reasons.

Odds are they couldn't get enough money per unit versus volume at their price point.
Still a great saw though from what I know especially at the price point.
And you can either get parts from Rikon or Sears parts online.
But the Taiwanese factory was still geared up to make them.
So now we've got clones that are nearly as good at way less money.

I'm considering the General 90-120 or their 12" 90-040 as I can use my shop vac for extraction.
My grizzly has kind of taken a nose dive it'd be nice to be able to run both off the shop vac.
The 90-120 will take one inch blades having to remove rails won't bother me as I plan on just building a high fence as well as a regular fence indexed to split dimensional lumber in half.
That I can index off of that blade slot no one seems to like.

Anyway have fun with your saw if you still have it.


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## BanjoBen

> Even though it has 8" of resaw capacity, you can t really cut heavy stock or logs with it. It s just too light weight and not beefy enough.


Could you clarify what you mean by this? I've been looking at this saw, specifically for its resaw capacity. I have no interest (at least for now) in cutting logs, but I would want it to be able to handle the occasional job of resawing hardwoods such as maple, rosewood, purple heart, and so forth. I'm just wondering if this saw will do a good job with that, or if I should look elsewhere.


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## Mike3ID

The wheels are aluminum, it only has so much horse power and blade speed.
It won't accept really wide blades.
I went with a half length fence on my grizzly, 
Tuned the guides and what not and it's performing much better but in essence it's still not really meant for resawing wood.

As far as the Craftsman BAS350 it's probably the best you'll get at that price point I wouldn't even attempt to Resaw 8" ebony or whatnot on it but it'll probably do 8" of dimensional no problem.


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## Puffball

As Mikde3ID noted, the resaw capabilities are really limited by the motor's horsepower and not the resaw height. It can easily do 8" dimensional, but is challenged with anything much more than 6" for good resawing. I have tried re-sawing >6" cherry and maple with limited success. I usually wind up less than happy with results due to the blade deflecting and causing the cut to come out tapered. And this is with a 1/2" Timberwolf re-saw blade.


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## BanjoBen

Thanks for the feedback, guys. It sounds like I should save up a bit more and get something with a bit more power.


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## Mike3ID

Buy once; cry once.
Try and avoid iron saws if you can get a steel one.
Yeah you can throw a 6" riser in one but you'll be struggling other places like power blade speed and accuracy.
Admittedly I looked at this saw but more for keeping a 6TPI 3/8 blade on and doing serious stuff on a bigger saw.

Happy Christmas & Joyful Mess making.


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## BanjoBen

Yeah, I don't mind paying more for a tool, if I can see a good reason for it. For that matter, I feel that way about a lot of things. Usually buying the best you can afford and using it for a long time is your best bet.

The biggest issue for me has been trying to find tools that are small/mobile enough to work in a very small shop, while still being big/powerful enough to do what I want.

One other question though: what do you mean by iron versus steel saws? Are you talking about the frame itself?


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## RHolcomb

BandjoBen, As I said in an earlier post, I was going to sell my BAS350 for a better saw. I ended up buying a Grizzly G0513X2BF. Sure it was a lot more money than the Craftsman saw but it has done everything I've asked of it and I haven't had to swear one time LOL. It's a beast of a saw in not only what it can do but the weight of it alone gives me comfort that I can throw a log on it and the thing isn't going to budge. If I tried that with the Craftsman, I would have worried the thing would move all over the place. Maybe even tip over depending on the weight of the log. This will be my last band saw!


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## Mike3ID

Yes the frame itself.
3/4 hp bandsaw isn't going to do 12" of resaw riser block or not it's better to get a steel saw of 1.5 hp that can do ten cause power and whatnot.
Big thing is get one with common blades.
My grizzly is based off of a metal saw great selection of bi metal blades available online only but they're also expensive.
Anyway the steel saws are much more accurate for a cheaper production cost which means adding things like roller guides and iron wheels still at a competitive price is easier for manufactures to pull off.


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## crzy4wood

Matt Tooley, do you still have the Craftsman 14 inch band saw? How's it working for you up to now?


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## Puffball

@Jose - I still have and it continues to work just like the day I got it. I did have to replace the lower bearing guides, but replacements are cheap and readily available on Amazon.

I use it a lot, as I don't own a tablesaw. So i use this and my sliding miter saw to do all my cuts.

There are a bunch of little designs changes that would make it better:
- change the slot in the table to be to the side and not to the front. this would make it easier to change the blades without having to remove the fence.
- better bearing adjustments. This saw requires holding the bearing in one hand and tightening the allen nut with the other. 
- a better fence

I bought the Rikon fence, in hindsight i would have been better off spending a little more and getting the Kreg fence.


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## Gus01

@ Jose
I have the Rikon 10-321 recently and was looking at the Rikon fence 13-900 to go with it since the saw is already pre-drilled for it. Can you or anyone else give me some details on the 13-900 fence or in your case what's better about the Kreg fence vs the Rikon.


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## Puffball

The Rikon fence works fine except for resewing. It isn't tall enough to be good by itself for resawing. You are also suppose to be able to adjust the fence for blade drift. I haven't tried that yet as it requires loosening some allen nuts on the fence and doesn't seem worth the time for a few cuts. Instead i usually just try to get the bladed centered properly on the wheels to minimize any drift.

I bought the Rikon because I didn't want to deal with drilling holes for the Kreg fence and I was feeling poor so I didn't want to spend the extra money for the Kreg fence.


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## Gus01

Thank @Jose
That's the type of information I am looking for. im currently using a homemade fence that as a guide it works well but setting it up to a new position is a real pain and the clamps holding it to the table sometimes get in the way.


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## Gus01

Matt thanks for the information, I really appreciate it.


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## atmil

Hey guys, I had one of these bandsaws for a year or so. Unfortunately I ended up having an unfixable factory-defective machine, but I have a massive pile of parts for it. If anyone is in need of anything, I'd be happy to ship out whatever it is that you need for cheaper than anywhere else!

PS: I also happen to have one brand new set of rubber tires, and two new sets of urethane tires: one set orange from eBay, and one set of blue Carter tires. Just let me know!


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## Mike3ID

> Hey guys, I had one of these bandsaws for a year or so. Unfortunately I ended up having an unfixable factory-defective machine, but I have a massive pile of parts for it. If anyone is in need of anything, I d be happy to ship out whatever it is that you need for cheaper than anywhere else!
> 
> PS: I also happen to have one brand new set of rubber tires, and two new sets of urethane tires: one set orange from eBay, and one set of blue Carter tires. Just let me know!
> 
> - atmil


Are you anywhere near Charleston SC


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