# Saw Making



## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

*A Borg Backsaw*

I thought it would be interesting to try another inexpensive build and decided to re-purpose one of the Home Depot Husky 14" backsaws that sell for a little less than $9 USD. Here it is in its natural environment.










On first inspection, you see that its made in the USA (from global components), but is made from high carbon spring steel, is .032" thick and the plate is not etched. The folded steel back of this is my least favorite part, and I debated slotting a piece of brass, but decided to keep it in the end.










I took the steel back off, used Acetone to remove the husky logo and cut the saw plate to fit my Tyzack backsaw pattern.










I didnt want to invest a lot of money in this already inexpensive saw, so I used the tail end of a piece of curly maple that had very little figure in it. In the picture, this almost looks like a piece of rough cut pine, lol.










After gluing the template the board, I take it to the drill press to help cut the tight radii, and then to the bandsaw to cut the rough shape.




























After this I might have become fairly lax in my documentary methods. Oopsie…I do cover some more of the methods I use in my other hand saw projects.

I bought some medium sized brass split nuts from Alamo Saws on eBay and am pleased with the quality for the price. I got a discount for buying 8 sets. The two brass split nuts became the most expensive part of the build. I did a lot of shaping with rasps and sand paper and then used some Transtint dye in alcohol to bring some of the curl out. I dyed it dark, sanded off the majority of the dye, added oil, and then tinted the shellac seal coats to make it a little warmer (started with red mahogany, than antique maple). I was aiming for more of an antique apple handle, but am happy enough with the coloration. Used Minwax Antique Oil for the final coats which gives it a nice smooth and shiny surface.



















Without calculating the cost of finishing supplies, I spent $9 on the saw and $10 on the split nuts. I will hold on to the steel split nuts that came with the saw for a future build.

This was a fun little saw project!


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## cutmantom (Feb 2, 2010)

AgentTwitch said:


> *A Borg Backsaw*
> 
> I thought it would be interesting to try another inexpensive build and decided to re-purpose one of the Home Depot Husky 14" backsaws that sell for a little less than $9 USD. Here it is in its natural environment.
> 
> ...


Looks great, a brass back would be a nice addition to the handle, did you sharpen it or leave it as it was


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## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

AgentTwitch said:


> *A Borg Backsaw*
> 
> I thought it would be interesting to try another inexpensive build and decided to re-purpose one of the Home Depot Husky 14" backsaws that sell for a little less than $9 USD. Here it is in its natural environment.
> 
> ...


I left the saw geometry as is for now…but I will file them to be more aggressive later. I will save my brass for better saws in the near future, as this was just a quick saw making fix during a few nights.


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

AgentTwitch said:


> *A Borg Backsaw*
> 
> I thought it would be interesting to try another inexpensive build and decided to re-purpose one of the Home Depot Husky 14" backsaws that sell for a little less than $9 USD. Here it is in its natural environment.
> 
> ...


Nice looking you really jazzed it up with that handle.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

AgentTwitch said:


> *A Borg Backsaw*
> 
> I thought it would be interesting to try another inexpensive build and decided to re-purpose one of the Home Depot Husky 14" backsaws that sell for a little less than $9 USD. Here it is in its natural environment.
> 
> ...


You really turned that into a beauty!


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## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

AgentTwitch said:


> *A Borg Backsaw*
> 
> I thought it would be interesting to try another inexpensive build and decided to re-purpose one of the Home Depot Husky 14" backsaws that sell for a little less than $9 USD. Here it is in its natural environment.
> 
> ...


Thanks!


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

AgentTwitch said:


> *A Borg Backsaw*
> 
> I thought it would be interesting to try another inexpensive build and decided to re-purpose one of the Home Depot Husky 14" backsaws that sell for a little less than $9 USD. Here it is in its natural environment.
> 
> ...


So I'm guessing these don't have induction hardened teeth, that's good to know. Sure made a silk purse from a sow's ear.


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## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

AgentTwitch said:


> *A Borg Backsaw*
> 
> I thought it would be interesting to try another inexpensive build and decided to re-purpose one of the Home Depot Husky 14" backsaws that sell for a little less than $9 USD. Here it is in its natural environment.
> 
> ...


Rick, you are correct - no induction/electro hardened teeth on the plate. Another benefit to this cheap saw is that there isnt any additional holes punched into the saw plate for hanging (a HUGE pet peave of mine).


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## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

*Gents Saw Conversion Part 1*

There has been a lot of interest in building tools from scratch, rehabbing tools that needed some love, or repurposing a tool so that it might have more potential or beauty. I have decided to chronicle a few saw builds in these categories in the hope that it might inspire someone to give it a try that was otherwise too nervous to begin the journey on their own.

For this series, I am going to do a write up on re-purposing an inexpensive gents saw into a western style dovetail saw. This idea is not new, nor is it my own. This is just my take on an idea that I found worthwhile and oh-so-satisfying! The gents saw provides the saw back and the saw plate for less than buying the raw material.

You can chose to follow along verbatim, modify every single aspect of the build, or just read it for the fun of it. You won't hear any complaints from me either way!

*My Materials List*











1 inch thick, straight grained hardwood lumber , I used some curly maple lumber. 
(2) 7/16 inch brass split nuts. I get mine from TGIAG.com, Blackburntools.com, or Alamo Saws.
(1) 10 inch gents saw. Make sure whatever new or old saw you use doesn't have induction hardened teeth and has a solid folded back (don't get a reversible gents saw). I opted for the steel back version from Crown. It was $15 USD. The brass back can be had for around $25 USD on Amazon.com
A full-size printout of your favorite saw handle template, or a design of your own making.

*Lets Get Started*

This is what we are starting with: a perfectly good, well balanced, good value gents saw.










Clamp the saw plate and spine into your vise and pull off the handle. I have had one come off easily this way, and then another that required me to use a hammer to strike a ¾ x ¾ x 5 inch block to strike near the ferule to pop the spine out of the socket. This is what we want, a saw plate and saw spine. I will hold on to the discarded handle for a file holder or something. At this point, use some acentone to scrub the laquer off the saw plate and spine.










I have a folder on my computer with saw handle templates that I like. For this project, I will use the Gramercy dovetail saw pattern for its classic lines. It also includes excellent instructions on how to prepare the saw handle blank every step of the way!










Once you have located the template you wish to print, make sure that your printer isn't going to shrink the document to fit any margin settings. On my particular printer dialogue box, the default option was "Fit", which would have shrunk this template to 94% of its actual size. Make sure you select "Actual Size" for this reason. If you are unsure if your template printed out at 1:1, most of them include a reference scale near the pattern. Just measure the scale on your print out with your handy dandy rule to verify.










I take the handle template with me to the workshop and locate a piece of straight grained wood. For many of us LumberJocks, this is a chance to use up some fancy scraps of exotics or other species we couldn't bear the thought of throwing away. This lumber selection is really a personal preference. Just make sure its durable and that the wood is large enough to accommodate the template with the correct grain orientation.










You will notice in the saw template below, that the grain must run straight through the narrowest part of the saw handle, which likely means that the template will be at an angle to the edge of the board you use.










Make sure you clean up the lumber so you can admire the grain, *cough* I mean ensure that the grain is running the right way, avoid knots or other imperfections, maximize the grain to your advantage and have a clean surface to glue the saw handle template to.










This is where we will stop for this iteration. In the next episode we will be using the drill press. A lot. We will drill out some holes to help shape the handle, drill out some holes for the saw nuts, cut a kerf for the saw plate (using the drill press with an arbor saw), drill out the mortise to receive the saw back, and finally-drill out the holes in the saw plate to attach the handle to the plate.


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## jstegall (Oct 9, 2008)

AgentTwitch said:


> *Gents Saw Conversion Part 1*
> 
> There has been a lot of interest in building tools from scratch, rehabbing tools that needed some love, or repurposing a tool so that it might have more potential or beauty. I have decided to chronicle a few saw builds in these categories in the hope that it might inspire someone to give it a try that was otherwise too nervous to begin the journey on their own.
> 
> ...


Thank you for inserting that "cough" it reminded me to stop holding my breath…the figure was not going away


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## woodcox (Nov 21, 2012)

AgentTwitch said:


> *Gents Saw Conversion Part 1*
> 
> There has been a lot of interest in building tools from scratch, rehabbing tools that needed some love, or repurposing a tool so that it might have more potential or beauty. I have decided to chronicle a few saw builds in these categories in the hope that it might inspire someone to give it a try that was otherwise too nervous to begin the journey on their own.
> 
> ...


I bought a lynx gent candidate for this purpose but i have been just using it as is. It cuts really well and I think I should try this for a nice little saw. Great example, thanks for sharing your work. I think I have a few nice potential handles now too.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

AgentTwitch said:


> *Gents Saw Conversion Part 1*
> 
> There has been a lot of interest in building tools from scratch, rehabbing tools that needed some love, or repurposing a tool so that it might have more potential or beauty. I have decided to chronicle a few saw builds in these categories in the hope that it might inspire someone to give it a try that was otherwise too nervous to begin the journey on their own.
> 
> ...


Nice work … I did the same with a Stanley gent … we may have used the same handle template. How do you like it? I seem to have much more control using the saw with this new handle.


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## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

AgentTwitch said:


> *Gents Saw Conversion Part 1*
> 
> There has been a lot of interest in building tools from scratch, rehabbing tools that needed some love, or repurposing a tool so that it might have more potential or beauty. I have decided to chronicle a few saw builds in these categories in the hope that it might inspire someone to give it a try that was otherwise too nervous to begin the journey on their own.
> 
> ...


I do like gents saws, but find the grip and control of a western dovetail saw to be my reference.


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## CLA (Jan 16, 2019)

AgentTwitch said:


> *Gents Saw Conversion Part 1*
> 
> There has been a lot of interest in building tools from scratch, rehabbing tools that needed some love, or repurposing a tool so that it might have more potential or beauty. I have decided to chronicle a few saw builds in these categories in the hope that it might inspire someone to give it a try that was otherwise too nervous to begin the journey on their own.
> 
> ...


I just made the decision to convert my Stanley gent saw and have been searching for info and methodology of how to go about it, and found your blog… great info!! Thanks for taking the time to post the tutorial, and especially the link to the Gramercy Tools instruction and handle template, this has given me the confidence to proceed with the conversion.


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## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

*Gents Saw Conversion Part 2*

Part two of the Gents Saw Conversion series. This may be a bit verbose, so I apologize ahead of time. After all, we are just drilling holes…

The next step in the conversion process is drilling holes. A lot of holes. You will need a variety of forstner and twist drill bits to complete these steps.










With your template affixed to your stock, use an awl to create reference points on all of the indicated locations, or use the spur on the forstner to create a divot. Apply moderate pressure so there is a positive location for the bit to enter when the drill press is in operation.



















The Gramercy pattern that I am using indicates the center point and diameter of the hole for the tote and split nuts. We will focus on hogging out the holes that give the tote its shape first. These holes will be used to create the stunning curves that are found in traditional western back saws.

Before you drill your first hole, you will want to back up your stock with a fresh piece of plywood on the drill press to make sure you minimize any tear out.










Make sure you drill out all of the holes with the appropriate bit. This particular pattern uses three different forstner bits and one twist bit for the shape of the body alone. It can be easy to be complacent and drill the wrong diameter hole.





































Next up, we need to drill for the split nuts. The saw template by Gramercy suggests using a 1/8th inch drill bit to act as a thru / pilot hole for the two split nuts and then drill out the large recess for the heads of the nut, following up with the appropriate bit for the shaft. The smaller diameter through-hole serves to perfectly align your bits on both sides of the saw tote.

We are left with something that sort of resembles Swiss cheese.










At this point you can take the stock to the band saw to rough out the handle shape. Alternatively, you can also use a coping saw or scroll saw or any other method that suits your fancy / tool collection.



















You may be tempted to start shaping the tote right off the band saw, but don't do it until you have completed all of the steps below. Drilling out the tote to receive the hardware requires some precision to ensure you have a tight fitting saw that is perfectly square and parallel when finished. If you make a big error, you may end up throwing the tote away and having the start from scratch.

Mark a center line where the tote will receive the mortise of the folded back and where the saw plate fits inside the body. You could use a pencil, but a marking knife gets better results.










A marking knife line provides a positive stop for an awl or drill bits. Take a sharp marking awl and make 4-5 dimples for your drill bits along the center line you created, leaving just enough space between each dimple that your drill bit will overlap about halfway into the next hole.

If you don't add these divots, your bits may wander, causing a misshapen mortise. Don't ask me how I know this…Pay no attention to the kingwood inlay.

Select a drill bit that is the same width as the folded back, or ever-so-slightly larger. You could also drill it slightly narrower, and clean up with chisels if you prefer. Your goal is to get a clean, slip fit. Depending on your finishing process, a piston tight fit in the rough state might make assembly much much much harder in the end. I go for 1/64th over in most of my hardware drilling operations.



















Set your depth stop on the drill press so that you are making the same depth hole each time. I set mine so that the folded back will stick up above the tote by about 3/16". This is personal preference.

Take your time to hog out the waist, clearing the chips and checking your progress. You want to drill every other hole you marked with the awl, and then come back and drill out the remaining waste. Clean it up with a sharp chisel, or small file. This yields better results. Check to make sure your saw back fits.










Next up, we need to drill for the split nuts. The split nuts you have on hand dictates the drill bits you will use. I am using 7/16" brass split nuts from Alamo Saw Works. The template I am using calls for 1/2" split nuts, but I am a rebel. I live on the edge and through caution to the breeze. Its what I had on had, folks.

The 7/16" split nuts are advertised as "small split nuts". They are probably the least expensive brass split nuts you can buy, especially if you buy more than 6 at a time from Alamo. The quality to price ratio is quite good. 
I opt for a very slightly larger hole, so I use the 29/64" bit so I have wiggle room that you cant really see with your eye. I lower the bit on my work piece so the cutting section is fully engaged while the drill is off, and set the depth stop to the width of the split nut + a hair (like you would with a plunge router). The paper width difference helps you to sand the handle flush with the saw nuts later. I find it easier to remove a very thin layer of wood than removing the brass. Plus, brass dust can embed itself in your tote and stain lighter colored woods.



















Once the larger mortises are drilled out on both sides of the tote, you may have to drill a secondary mortise just below the head of the split nut. Some manufacturers like TGIAG and Winsor saw have square shoulders in this area. You can pre-drill and use a chisel to cut out the square shoulder. This design is traditional and keeps the bolt from spinning as you tighten the nut on the other side of the tote.










Alamo Saws uses round shoulders, and I keep them this way. I haven't had issues with them spinning during tightening.










If I wanted, I could add a star washer between the bolt and the tote…










Or file the shoulders square before drilling out the tote. Just make sure that if you take either of these approaches with a round shouldered split nut, you need to account for either the height difference on the split nut, or the change in diameter of the shoulder.

Next, drill out the through hole for the bolt to pass through. Check to make sure your split nuts fit and that the head of the bolt and the nut can be fully seated in the mortise. Be careful not to mar the brass nuts with your driver. Split nuts are very fragile and will ding easily. Having an ever-so-slightly larger hole for the nut will allow you to use your finger to tighten and loosen the split nuts to check the fit.










These split nuts are sitting just below the surface of the wood. Perfect!

Finally, it's time to cut the slot into the handle for the saw plate. There are so many ways to do this, it comes down to tools and preference. I have chucked up a .020 slitting saw into the drill press, aligning the center line mark on the tote with the center of the slitting saw. NOTE: Before you turn on the drill press, check the feed direction of the saw blade. You will also want to turn the speed way down and take shallow passes. I mount my tote to a piece of plywood to assist with handling and to keep my fingers away from a spinning blade. Essentially, I am using this tool to cut a perfectly fitting and square starting slot for the saw plate that is about 3/8" deep. I do not attempt to get the full depth of cut from the slitting saw because it can be awkward to maneuver the tote. So you can see this is purely an optional tool.










Once you score the tote for the saw plate, you can use a dovetail saw to finish cutting the slot to full depth.










Here I am using a dovetail saw with a .020 thick plate that has almost no set to the teeth. Set the saw in the marking gauge line you made earlier, or follow the pencil line. If you don't have a spare saw hanging around, use the same gents saw you are creating a new handle for. You can put it back together if you want to hold onto the saw to cut it while the tote is in the vice.

Alternatively, you can also take the saw plate and clamp the blade on a board that is half the thickness of the tote and slide the tote back and forth to achieve a parallel / square cut.










If there is any set to the saw teeth you are using, you will end up with a slightly wider kerf for the saw plate to fit into. Something to keep in mind. The name of the game here is to get a perfectly parallel / square cut that lines up with the mortise for the saw back and provides support to the plate when the tool is fully assembled. Any deviation/twist in your slot will be reflected in your saw plate when you assemble it. A little twist is okay as the saw plate will follow through on the push stroke, but if its significant, it will bind in the cut or make cutting straight lines difficult at best.

The next blog entry will focus on cutting the folded saw back and saw plate, drilling out the split nut holes into the saw plate. We will be using marking tools, a hack saw, tin snips, and a router bit in the drill press.


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## putty (Jan 1, 2014)

AgentTwitch said:


> *Gents Saw Conversion Part 2*
> 
> Part two of the Gents Saw Conversion series. This may be a bit verbose, so I apologize ahead of time. After all, we are just drilling holes…
> 
> ...


Nice detailed Blog Twitchy thanks for posting it…I missed part 1. 
I cant wait to see the finished saw!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

AgentTwitch said:


> *Gents Saw Conversion Part 2*
> 
> Part two of the Gents Saw Conversion series. This may be a bit verbose, so I apologize ahead of time. After all, we are just drilling holes…
> 
> ...


Excellent blog!


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## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

AgentTwitch said:


> *Gents Saw Conversion Part 2*
> 
> Part two of the Gents Saw Conversion series. This may be a bit verbose, so I apologize ahead of time. After all, we are just drilling holes…
> 
> ...


Thanks fellas, I am having fun chronicling the steps. When I sit back and read these words, I do make the process sound more complicated than it really is…I will have to work on that.


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## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

*Gents Saw Conversion Part 3*

As we move onto Part 3 of The Gents saw conversion tutorial, we focus on cutting the saw plate and drilling the holes for the split nuts.










To help us with this endeavor, we will use Dykem Steel Blue, which is used to help make for easy and accurate layout.










While the saw plate is away from the saw back, put some layout fluid on top of the plate where you plan to make cuts and drill holes. Make sure you have the teeth facing the correct direction, or you may end up with a Western style pull saw.










Now line up your template to see where you need to cut away the plate so it will fit tightly in your saw handle. I find it easier to lay the saw plate on top of the template and make a tick mark at the point where the template needs to be cut at top, and a tick mark on the side where the cut ends.










Connect these lines using a straightedge such as the saw back you have removed from the plate, or your choice of a straight edge. The tool of choice for marking on steel with layout fluid is a carbide scratch awl.










Once you have connected your lines, you need to determine if you want a tapered saw or a straight saw. If you want to make your decision based only on the aesthetics of it, you can just move the saw back on top of the plate to see which you prefer.



















Some people say that having a tapered saw makes starting your cut easier because the saw plate is at an angle when starting your cut. A similar argument is made for not blowing past your layout line on the back of your work peace since the saw toe is not cutting at the same depth as the heel.

Personally, I use both and enjoy using both. For this particular saw I am going to make a tapered saw. The amount of taper is entirely up to you, but you want to make sure that you don't have too much of a slope or it could look kind of silly. I will make the slope about a quarter of an inch for this wood cutter. I mark what looks about right on toe of the plate, and do not get too hung up on the exact measurement here, just eyeball it.

Next, use a straight edge to connect the tick mark you just made to the back of the saw plate where it was cut away to fit into the tote.










Since we have our layout lines complete we know what size the saw plate will be and we can make the appropriate cuts.










Let's use a pair of tin snips and carefully cut just to the outside of our line. Be careful because the edges are very sharp.










Its a good idea to clean up those sharp edges with a file. (Hey look, a use for your excess Gents Saw handle). You can also sneak up on your layout lines using the file if you had a little bit of extra steel left to remove after you cut the plate.










Let's cut the saw back so that it will fit the tote and plate. I place the saw back on top of the plate (no need to assemble it for this step) and place the tote where it will fit with the plate. I find a pencil works for making the mark to cut. I like the saw back to stick past the plate in the front a little bit.










To cut the saw back, use a metal cut off saw…










Or a hacksaw…The hacksaw makes quick work of this.










File the freshly cut edges and put the saw plate back into the saw spine. I find it easier to put the saw plate into a vice and get the front point started first. Then gently tape the rest of the saw back on using a mallet.










If your saw back is to far forward or too far back, you can use a wooden dowel and mallet to tap the saw back to make any needed adjustments.










Put the saw plate assembly into the saw tote and mark for the split nut locations using your carbide scratch awl.










Remove the saw plate and add use use a scratch awl to make a small dimple in the center of each layout hole. This will help keep the drill bit from wandering.










I like to use a carbide tipped "V" router bit to make the holes. I wouldn't use an expensive bit for this as carbide is brittle, but if you have a spare, it works very well.










I drill on both side of the plate, sneaking up on a good fit. The added benefit of drilling both sides with a "V" bit is that it deburrs the hole and places a very shallow countersink to guide in the split nut during assembly.

This is the fit we are looking for. The split nut should slide through without catching the fragile threads on the saw plate and isnt so large that that the plate would wiggle when assembled.


__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content










Lets assemble the saw and see how everything is fitting. If you cant get the split nut through the tote with some light hand pressure and wiggling, you need to make sure that your holes line up with the tote, or widen a hole slightly to get the saw nut through. If you need to whack the split nut with a mallet to get it through the tote and saw plate, you are risking damage to the fine brass threads. This will make assembly much harder in the future. Likewise, getting the split nut out should not require a steel punch and a hammer. The added force can damage the nut.










Now that we know everything fits the way it should, we can take the saw apart and remove the layout fluid using a cloth and solvent. I am using Acetone to remove the layout fluid here.










Thanks for checking in!

*Next up, shaping the saw tote. *


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## Dwain (Nov 1, 2007)

AgentTwitch said:


> *Gents Saw Conversion Part 3*
> 
> As we move onto Part 3 of The Gents saw conversion tutorial, we focus on cutting the saw plate and drilling the holes for the split nuts.
> 
> ...


Really beautiful work. Are you concerned about the height of the saw blade and how close it is to the handle? Again, I can't wait to see how this is finished. Thanks for recording this for all of us.


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## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

AgentTwitch said:


> *Gents Saw Conversion Part 3*
> 
> As we move onto Part 3 of The Gents saw conversion tutorial, we focus on cutting the saw plate and drilling the holes for the split nuts.
> 
> ...


Thank you, Dwain, its been fun to record this adventure. But it makes this simple process take a lot longer than just doing it!

I will agree that the plate height is not ideal, but it should be sufficient for most dovetailing applications. There will be about 7/8" near the cheek of the tote when the shaping is complete. Right now there is some extra material on the tote that will be removed during the shaping process.

Since this impacts the last inch or so of the 10" saw plate, there is still plenty of saw left for thicker cuts. Many western dovetail saws are sized at 9".


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## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

*Gents Saw Conversion Part 4*

*Finishing the Saw Tote*

We are nearing the home stretch! Thanks for following along. To recap, we decided to convert a 10" gents saw into a western dovetail saw and selected the pattern and materials in part 1. In part 2 of the series, we bored out lots of holes to shape the tote, cut the tote out on the bandsaw, hogged out the mortise for the saw back and drilled stepped holes for the brass split nut hardware on the drill press. In part 3, we cut the saw spine down, notched the saw plate to fit the saw tote pattern, and drilled out holes for the split nuts using a carbide tipped router bit.

In this installment, we are going to shape the tote using rasps, scrapers, files, and sandpaper. 









There was a section of wood left over on the tote to help us align the tote on the drill press. I didn't feel like bandsawing this off, or using a coping saw. I just grabbed the rasp and it made quick work of the curly maple. A good set of rasps are worth every penny!









Now that we are on our layout line, I like to mark a center line around the saw tote to make sure we have a nice even gentle curve. 


















You can see below how the cheek of the saw tote tapers to the line.









And on the other side.









Sometimes it helps to scrape away the rough rasp marks before hitting it with sandpaper. I like my standard sized card scraper, but an old razor blade with a burr works very well in small spaces.









For the cheeks, I first rasp the chamfer close to the hook. These lines are purely aesthetic, but it does add elegance. 
I follow up with a few strokes of a chisel. 









The nib located between the top horn and the hook can be difficult to smooth. I find it best to use a small triangle file to clean that up. It works well on the bottom of the tote between the horn and the "clip".









Shaping the tote is just a matter of rasping a round curve to the center line on the tote. 
Another useful tool to acquire is the sawmakers rasp. It has a gentle curve and cuts on one face so you can maneuver it around the handle. 









Next up I mark the round overs on the horn to make sure they are symmetrical. I like to match the shape of the saw tote.









Then we use to rasp to bring them to the line.









Next up we add a "chamfer stop". Its not really a lambs tongue, but they are sometimes referred to as one.









If you still have the paper template glued on to the tote, a card scraper and a sanding block are great tools to remove it. I used yellow glue, so I had a bit of clean up afterwards.









I then sanded the tote with 100P followed with 150P sandpaper. This is as high as I am going to sand since I am using figured wood. Charles Neil says its best to sand the wood no higher than 180P so the oil will penetrate deep into the curly figure. At this point, we are left with a block of wood that looks like a saw tote. 









For the finish, I am using Boiled Linseed Oil. I used one part BLO and 2 parts mineral spirits and simply wiped it on.









The wood obsorbed every drop of the BLO, so I added a second cote. I wiped off the excess after letting it set for 5 minutes, but 99% of this coat also soaked into the tote, really bringing out the figure of the curly maple and adding some nice warmth to the white color. 









Now we wait. We will build up the finish with oil, then wax and buff. Next up, assembly!


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## bobasaurus (Sep 6, 2009)

AgentTwitch said:


> *Gents Saw Conversion Part 4*
> 
> *Finishing the Saw Tote*
> 
> ...


Looks like a ton of work, well done. I too have the auriou rasps (and gramercy handle rasp), an love them so much. It's hard to explain to other people though… "You paid how much? For a rasp???". Yes, and I would do it again dammit.


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## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

AgentTwitch said:


> *Gents Saw Conversion Part 4*
> 
> *Finishing the Saw Tote*
> 
> ...


Thanks, Allen. I agree completely with you about the rasps!


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## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

*Gents Saw Conversion Part 5*

So this blog entry will be pretty short. In truth, creating a saw tote doesn't take more than half a day in the shop to cut out the wood, shape it and get the first coat of finish on it. This blog *seems* long, but I did try to cover a lot of the details for those that care about such things.

In this final installment of the little gents saw conversion, we install the saw back, line up the saw plate, install the split nuts, give it some test cuts, make a final adjustment or two, oil it and admire our work.










So without further ado, here we go…

I insert the saw plate into the spine and put it back together.










I insert the split nuts and check to make sure they are flush.










Then its as simple as putting on each split nut using a split nut driver. Be careful not to mar the nut or the side of the saw tote.










Might as well clock the split nuts…










I put a light coat of jojoba oil on the plate to act as a rust inhibitor and lubricant.










Lets give it a few test cuts.










It cuts straight, but I bet we can make it cut smoother and perhaps faster. I install my saw vice and locate my saw files.










A couple of light strokes on each tooth…










And now we have a saw worthy to hang next to the other real saws.










Taking a photograph of the handle's figure has proven impossible. The grain really pops and every angle brings some really stunning chatoyance. The layers of the penetrating oil finish were worth it.

So, would I build another saw like this? Maybe with a few friends if they had a desire to give this a try. It was more to document the process. A gents saw and two split nuts will set you back $20-30 on average. A nice slotted brass back, custom saw plate and machined saw nuts are not that much more money and will give you a much better final product. I would suggest anyone who has never made a saw before, give this a try. If you enjoyed the process and learned some valuable lessons, buy a kit or do the whole thing from scratch.

Thanks for following along!


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## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

*Panel Saw from a Great Neck 26" Saw*

*This installment is taking an inexpensive handsaw and turning it into a panel saw. *

I have wanted a Lie-Nielsen panel saw for some time (actually a pair of them in rip and cross cut configurations) to live in my non-existent tool chest that I hope to someday build. They are beautiful, and like all of Lie-Nielsen's products, they are very well made and reasonable for the precision and warranty they offer. I have no reservations buying a quality tool like LN, I just dont have the money to do it right now.

Why not build one? You can buy the beautiful brass domed saw bolts from Lie-Nielsen for $5 each ($7.50 if you want the medallion, you just have to ask for them as its not on their website), and purchase a saw plate from TGIAG.com for $47. My goal was to try to find a cheaper way.

*The inspiration:*









*The donor:*









Great Neck offers a 26" hand saw that is made in the good old USA for less than those parts. I got mine delivered to the door for $28. The pros: Made in the USA, includes saw bolts (1 more than needed), made of high carbon steel and you can resharpen it. The cons: The bolts are chrome plated steel instead of the nice solid brass. While the teeth are not traditional geometry, while they are over-set, and while the saw plate has a hanging hole (WHY DO THEY DO THAT?!), its not an issue as I will re-file the teeth, fix the set and cut the saw plate to a panel saw size.

Lets take it apart.









Here is what we are left with, a plate and saw bolts for the rebuild.









I head on over to http://tgiag.com/saw-handle-scans.html and grab the Disston D-7 panel saw template and print it off.

Next up, I locate a piece of curly maple that is approximately 1" thick, at least 7" wide and long enough for my handle template. I use a hand plane to dimension to 7/8" thick.









I use a child's glue stick to put the template on the handle billet.









I use a bandsaw to cut it close to the line and then drill my through-holes for the bolts and slit for the saw plate. After that it's a matter of rasp/file/sand to get it to the layout lines. There is no photo of that process, but I have it covered in my other blog entries.



























My finish for this handle is a wiping varnish made of 3 parts mineral spirits, 2 parts boiled linseed oil and 1 part polyurethane. You can see my highly precise measurement lines on the mason jar. 









I put 2 coats on, wipe most of it off, and then wet sand the third coat, allowing it to dry over night after each coat. I did this until there seemed to be a sufficient coverage. 









Now that the handle is good to go, I position the handle on the plate and make a pencil lines were the plate ends at the top of the handle, where it exits out the bottom and where the curve.









I ended up using the mouth of a drinking glass to draw in the curve of the heel. The red sharpie makes it a little easier to see.

















I used a cutoff wheel to cut through this steel (hard stuff!) shy of my layout line. I used a belt sander to sneak up on the lines.

I test fit of the handle to the newly cut saw plate. Once satisifed with the results, I bring it to the drill press.









Next, I use a solid carbide spade bit to drill the holes for the saw bolts while the handle is dry fit on the saw plate (thanks for the pro tip, Isaac from Blackburn Tools!). This ensures a perfect fit. Just make sure the filings are carefully removed to so they don't scratch the finish or the saw plate.









You can see how the light from my drill press table is shining through the holes. I used to struggle with aligning the saw plate holes to the handle perfectly. Its worth the small investment for a carbide spade bit. You don't want oversized holes, or the plate can wiggle around when cutting. 









Now that the holes are drilled in the saw plate, I need to drill the correct diameter hole for the nut. I think it was 5/16" diameter and 1/2" deep. Don't go all the way through, or you will have wiggly saw bolts.

I forgot to cut the plate down to the final length and remove the nail hole from the toe of the saw plate. Traditional panel saws are 24" long with a saw plate closer to 20". I had plenty of room to cut it down to size.










Here is what we have, a panel saw with a curly maple handle for about $28 and shop materials. 









I didnt record removing the lacquer covering the plate removed with acetone, the traditional rip geometry filed into the teeth, the set was reduced using Paul Sellers method and then sharpened.

Overall this project was very satisfying! I hope I can find cheaper brass domed saw bolts in the future. They really do make a load of difference in appearance in my opinion, but I don't want to spend $15 per saw either. Thanks for looking! If you haven't attempted making a handsaw, these repurpose projects are not that expensive. Why not give it a try?


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## summerfi (Oct 12, 2013)

AgentTwitch said:


> *Panel Saw from a Great Neck 26" Saw*
> 
> *This installment is taking an inexpensive handsaw and turning it into a panel saw. *
> 
> ...


That turned out great, Norm. Very innovative, and it looks sharp too. Two questions: Did the Great Neck logo come off with acetone, and is the saw plate tapered?


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## Ted78 (Dec 3, 2012)

AgentTwitch said:


> *Panel Saw from a Great Neck 26" Saw*
> 
> *This installment is taking an inexpensive handsaw and turning it into a panel saw. *
> 
> ...


That's really cool, I like the idea of creating something awesome from something that started off so mundane. On a side note do you have any suggestions about where I can learn about refilling teeth? Specifically turning an old crosscut panel saw, that are literally $2 or $3 around here and making them a ripcut saw? The latter seem to be a lot harder to come by.

I flagged zunaid81's scammy post.


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## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

AgentTwitch said:


> *Panel Saw from a Great Neck 26" Saw*
> 
> *This installment is taking an inexpensive handsaw and turning it into a panel saw. *
> 
> ...


Bob, thanks for encouragement, the saw plate is not tapered. The logo came right off with acetone.

Ted, if you prefer to read instructions on filing saw teeth, try: http://www.blackburntools.com/articles/saw-tooth-geometry/index.html

If videos are more your thing, fellow lumberjock Brit (Andy) put out this great video:


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