# Is it practical to add mitered splines to a 1/4" frame ?



## OldBull (Apr 30, 2020)

Good Morning,

I have a 1/4"T x 1-1/2"W frame of padauk around a center piece of birdseye on a jewelry box, unassembled. I would like to strengthen the frame for longevity. Part of the centerpiece is free floating for expansion, short ends will be glued. If I try to use a mitered spline I leave just 1/16th on either side. That is ok if it works but I am a little afraid of breaking during the cut, and padauk has not been user friendly during this project. It especially does not like being thin. A glue line blade is .091" in width and that is appx 73% of a standard blade, not sure if that leaves enough wood for the cut either.

Any other methods or tips anyone would care to share on what they wood do ?

P.S. I will no longer make thin lids…..........

Thanks
Old Bull


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## gwilki (May 14, 2014)

I would use a circular saw blade in the table saw. They are something less than 1/16" thick. As long as you have the frame held firmly upright while cutting, you should be OK. Once the splines are glued in, of course, you're golden.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Not sure how much it will help but if I were going to try, I would use a thin kerf saw (Japanese style or dovetail saw for example) to cut the slot for the spline and then use at least 3 layers of thin veneer to make the spine from. Layer the veneer with the grain oriented in different directions like they do with plywood so that it doesn't just break along the grain. If you have not already cut miters, I would use half lap instead and it would be plenty strong.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Personally I think cutting a kerf with a circular saw blade is too risky and not entirely safe.

My thinking is cut kerfs with a hand saw and insert a piece of veneer or very thin stock. Line up the pieces back to back (edge to edge) and clamp to assure the kerfs line up.

Also a technique I've seen is to counterbore a shallow hole with a Forstner bit that spans the miter and glue in a disc. Yes, it will be noticeable, but with the same species maybe not too much.


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## OldBull (Apr 30, 2020)

Thanks for the replies,
Would a 1/8th dowel of some sort have a bad look? The dowels I see are light in color. One of my problems with a spline is getting stock down to a size smaller than 1/8th but consistent enough to be uniform for glue up.


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## OldBull (Apr 30, 2020)

*"" If you have not already cut miters, I would use half lap instead and it would be plenty strong.""*

That is interesting but I would have to wrap my brain around how to do it. The laps would not be mitered but straight ???


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

I use a 7-1/4" circular saw blade in my TS for these kind of cuts. 1/16" and thinner are common.
The tips about just using a hand saw and shims of veneer are also a great way to spline thin corners.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

> *"" If you have not already cut miters, I would use half lap instead and it would be plenty strong.""*
> 
> That is interesting but I would have to wrap my brain around how to do it. The laps would not be mitered but straight ???
> 
> - OldBull


Correct. This will give you a much stronger joint than a miter joint. It can be done laying flat on either on the router table with a straight bit (if you have a miter gauge) or the table saw with a dado blade, making multiple passes until the entire area is cut. You may need to do some clean up with a chisel and/or hand plane or maybe just a little sanding to remove any ridges caused by multiple passes. It could also be done with 2 cuts (one for shoulder and one from the end) on a table, band saw or hand saw with a again with a little clean up with chisel, hand plane or sandpaper. On thin stock you don't have much room for error and clean up but won't require anything but glue and sort of naturally squares itself if the shoulders are cut squarely.










BTW, I've used a 7-1/4 circular saw blade as splintergroup recommends when I need to make a very thin kerf cut as well. Freud makes some very thin blades designed for battery operated saws. Look for a relatively high number of carbide teeth for a clean cut. Also, while using stacks of veneer is an easy way to make thin splines, I frequently cut my own thin stock as thin as 1/32" with a good and sharp combo blade on my table saw too.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> *"" If you have not already cut miters, I would use half lap instead and it would be plenty strong.""*
> 
> That is interesting but I would have to wrap my brain around how to do it. The laps would not be mitered but straight ???
> 
> - OldBull


No, it's possible to do a mitered half-lap.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

Hey friend, everyone is going to give you wonderful advice. I can see where complimentary colored splines make your project really pop. I'm fixing to make a picture frame that can be sat on a shelf or hung on the wall. It's a photo of our beloved yellow lab Duc. My Daughter took the photo the morning we had all agreed to have Duc put down. My daughter got the sun light perfect and Duc looked wonderful. I'm certain that my daughter will cry when she gets this very special surprise Christmas gift.

Good dogs live forever in our lives and memories.

My Best,
Bob


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Bob, it hurts to lose a family member like that and the pic will be truly treasured. To the OP, any of the 1/2 laps might be tricky to do in 1/4" thick wood, but they might be your best bet.


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## OldBull (Apr 30, 2020)

Thanks again everyone, Thin is definetely the problem and this padauk has been easy to crack on the router making the groove for the bottom panel. And I can't stress this enough, there is RED everywhere. I will from now on stop being so aggressive with cuts, something I am learning the hard way.

@BurlyBob sorry to hear about your pup Duc.

2 main things I have learned the hard way

1. Shallow cuts are cleaner and less damaging.
2. Don't skimp on wood to save money or it will cost you.


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