# Pocket Hole Joinery for Screen Door



## jimc (Mar 6, 2008)

I need to replace our front patio screen door this summer so thought I would make it out of white oak. I was planning on doing traditional mortise & tenon joinery then began to wonder how it would hold up if I used pocket hole joinery with polyurethane glue. It's going to be painted anyway, so I could fill the pocket holes, sand, prime, and paint over the plugs. Certainly would be quicker and easier with pocket hole joinery!

Anyone have any experience with this or any thoughts pro or con?

Jim


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

Good pocket hole joinery in white oak will be very solid - almost as solid as a well done mortise and tenon and better than a poorly done mortise and tenon.

I would not bother with mortise and tenon on something that I was going to paint over.

I assume you will be using the Kreg pocket hole system. It is very good. I'm pretty good at joinery (including mortise and tenon) but I still use pocket holes on any joint that will not be visible. It is so quick and easy and, in general, trouble free.


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

Yeah, the screws act as a clamp while the glue dries in the joint. If you fill the hole with a plug of similar wood, fill and sand before painting, it should act as a single piece of wood. I'm assuming you're using oak for strength and hardness, but have you thought about staining it instead of paint? It could make a plain screen door something rather special.


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## lumberdustjohn (Sep 24, 2009)

Pocket hole joinery would work great.
Be sure to post the project.
Thanks


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## Viking (Aug 26, 2009)

Another vote for Pocket Hole. As Rich points out, the Kreg system is easy and results in a very srong joint.

Good luck!


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## Porosky (Mar 10, 2009)

I Like the look of putting the pocket hole on the outside and using a contrasting plug (Walnut plug against W.O.) Hmm….Interesting. Also no paint use some Spar varnish.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

Kreg Pocket Hole joinery advise - - Drill the hole just a smidgen (1/16") deeper than what Kreg recommends. Otherwise, on occasion you will have a screw head that is just tiny bit higher than the surface of the wood and you will have visible metal.


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