# Craftsman built-ins



## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Window seat - stereo cabinet #1*

Four years after major home renovation work, I've decided to tackle the living room space in our 1943 ranch. The house has an interesting feature…the interior walls were not studded/plastered; instead, the exterior brick was simply stuccoed on the interior…which makes for awkward built-in attachment. My larger goal is to work my way around the room installing built-ins in a craftsman like style. The individual projects I'll address in this blog will include:

1. 9' Window seat/stereo cabinet
2. Half wall with columns near front door
3. Half wall across first wall with storage/doors/columns
4. Two bookcases w/glass panel doors
5. Electric fireplace enclosure
6. Coat rack/bench

So…here we go. I initially removed the baseboard/trim which was interesting because it was nailed directly into concrete. I took measurements for the window seat and wall and marked them with tape.










Next step was to hit Home Depot for supplies. I purchased a sheet of hardwood plywood and 8 2×4x8 pine. I also picked up an 8×1 pine board for trim. I planned to paint these projects, so was not worried about the type of wood I used. Paint can cover a variety of sins!

I spent a day in prep with my construction grade 2×4s. I sized them, joined them and ran them through a planer. Next notched the boards. My idea was to make the carcass frame out of the 2×4s and top it with the 3/4" plywood. In addition to being a window seat, I wanted to place my old stereo equipment in the unit, so it would serve two functions. This is going to be a challenge as I don't want the bench to be over 21" in height and the speakers are about 14" laid on their sides.



















Next step was to begin putting the pieces together. I decided to use half-lap joints. This is a very strong, simple joint. And since I'll be painting, the seams/joints won't show. Dry fit went well. Tomorrow, I plan to start the glue up.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Window seat - stereo cabinet #2*

Back in the shop this morning to start glue-ups. This was pretty simple as I had dry fit the day prior. I realized that the old saw is true…you can never have enough clamps-and I don't. It was also somewhat difficult to put it all together by myself due to the size of the unit and the small space available in my shop. Used standard white wood glue and a few finish nails as insurance. Finally, I used wood putty to close up any small gaps and nail holes. Overall, I'm pleased with progress.


















I'll let this dry overnight. Seems fairly square considering the size and all the pieces. Next step was to fabricate three doors. I decided to use inset panel doors; two outside doors are 19" and the center door 17". Again, I kept it simple using pine and lap joints. The panels are 1/4" plywood. I used my table saw to make the grooves for the panels as it was quick and acurate. I know I can use wood putty to close up any gaps. These doors turned out strong and square.









Earlier this month I bought some hardware…hand forged iron hinges and cabinet latches. They are simple and really look good. Downside is they cost as much as all the rest of the supplies…about $150!









When everything dries, I'll be back to attach the plywood top and trim and sand.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Window seat - stereo cabinet #3*

After giving the glue a chance to set up overnight, I used today to accomplish final assembly and sanding. The top of the bench is 3/4" hardwood plywood. Of course, since the bench is longer than 8', I had to piece the top from several sections. This was not a problem since I'm painting. The doors look great and, to my surprise, fit the bench door openings almost perfectly. I trimmed the front plywood edge with 1 3/4" pine…two pieces spliced together with a miter joint. Spent several hours sanding everything smooth, stopping with 150 grit. Installing the surface mount hinges was a snap. Here's the final product of today's efforts:





































I want to mention at this point that most cuts were made on my radial arm saws…ripping was accomplished on my table saw. I have two RAS, side by side, which allows me to set up one for cutting (both 90 & 45 degree) and one for dadoes. Worked like a charm and cuts were straight and true.

I'm pleased with the results. Tomorrow I plan to give the bench a coat of primer.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Window seat - stereo cabinet #4*

As construction is complete, the bench is ready for painting. I used Zinssler BIN primer, the one with shelac, since I need to ensure the pine, especially knots, don't bleed through. It's pretty expensive, but I've heard quite a few good reviews. I found that this product was easy to use and dries quickly…in about 15 minutes. I used disposable 4" & 6" rollers to apply the paint. The downside is that the fumes are very strong. Fortunately, it was a nice day and I was able to open windows and doors for ventilation. Even then, it gave me quite a headache.

Before painting, I decided to move an electrical box that will be covered up to the top back corner of the bench. My wife wanted the ability to plug in holday lighting, etc., around the nearby window. A new box and some romex did the trick. I also placed stops in back of where the speakers will sit; this will ensure proper alignment and prevent accidental movement. Here's where I stand as of yesterday. I'll put another coat of paint on today and it should be ready to move to the house for installation.


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## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *Window seat - stereo cabinet #4*
> 
> As construction is complete, the bench is ready for painting. I used Zinssler BIN primer, the one with shelac, since I need to ensure the pine, especially knots, don't bleed through. It's pretty expensive, but I've heard quite a few good reviews. I found that this product was easy to use and dries quickly…in about 15 minutes. I used disposable 4" & 6" rollers to apply the paint. The downside is that the fumes are very strong. Fortunately, it was a nice day and I was able to open windows and doors for ventilation. Even then, it gave me quite a headache.
> 
> Before painting, I decided to move an electrical box that will be covered up to the top back corner of the bench. My wife wanted the ability to plug in holday lighting, etc., around the nearby window. A new box and some romex did the trick. I also placed stops in back of where the speakers will sit; this will ensure proper alignment and prevent accidental movement. Here's where I stand as of yesterday. I'll put another coat of paint on today and it should be ready to move to the house for installation.


Is that whole thing one solid structure? I hope it can fit around the corners and doors to get where it needs to go.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *Window seat - stereo cabinet #4*
> 
> As construction is complete, the bench is ready for painting. I used Zinssler BIN primer, the one with shelac, since I need to ensure the pine, especially knots, don't bleed through. It's pretty expensive, but I've heard quite a few good reviews. I found that this product was easy to use and dries quickly…in about 15 minutes. I used disposable 4" & 6" rollers to apply the paint. The downside is that the fumes are very strong. Fortunately, it was a nice day and I was able to open windows and doors for ventilation. Even then, it gave me quite a headache.
> 
> Before painting, I decided to move an electrical box that will be covered up to the top back corner of the bench. My wife wanted the ability to plug in holday lighting, etc., around the nearby window. A new box and some romex did the trick. I also placed stops in back of where the speakers will sit; this will ensure proper alignment and prevent accidental movement. Here's where I stand as of yesterday. I'll put another coat of paint on today and it should be ready to move to the house for installation.


It's one piece…sort of like the monolith in the movie 2001! It will be placed by the front door and can easily fit the width of that opening…and there are no other rooms to maneuver around. It is very heavy, so I've enlisted my neighbor's two teenage boys (who play varsity football) to help me move the beast this evening.


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## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *Window seat - stereo cabinet #4*
> 
> As construction is complete, the bench is ready for painting. I used Zinssler BIN primer, the one with shelac, since I need to ensure the pine, especially knots, don't bleed through. It's pretty expensive, but I've heard quite a few good reviews. I found that this product was easy to use and dries quickly…in about 15 minutes. I used disposable 4" & 6" rollers to apply the paint. The downside is that the fumes are very strong. Fortunately, it was a nice day and I was able to open windows and doors for ventilation. Even then, it gave me quite a headache.
> 
> Before painting, I decided to move an electrical box that will be covered up to the top back corner of the bench. My wife wanted the ability to plug in holday lighting, etc., around the nearby window. A new box and some romex did the trick. I also placed stops in back of where the speakers will sit; this will ensure proper alignment and prevent accidental movement. Here's where I stand as of yesterday. I'll put another coat of paint on today and it should be ready to move to the house for installation.


Good to know! I'm especially cautious about that aspect because of what happened with my uncle when he started out in woodworking. He finished this big piece, and it turned out that *he couldn't fit it through the door of his own workshop*. He had to knock down the door and part of the wall to get it out!


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Window seat - stereo cabinet #5*

Second coat of primer dried quickly, so I was ready to move the bench into the house. This required more muscle that I could muster myself, so I borrowed my neighbor's two teenage sons to move the beast. At over 8' it is not only ungainly, but very heavy. The boys were able to get the job done in less than 5 minutes without problem. The unit fit in the space under the window like a glove. It was even fairly level…which surprised me. A few small shims was all it took. I attached the unit to the brick wall with masonry screws and it's extremely solid. This is what it looks like as of tonight.




































I couldn't resist filling it up right away. The Advent Big Speakers fit perfectly and I had enough space for my old Carver stereo equipment and CD player (which I hate to say, I bought in the '80s). Sounds better than I remembered. Anyway, I'm very pleased. I'll trim it up tomorrow.


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

mountainaxe said:


> *Window seat - stereo cabinet #5*
> 
> Second coat of primer dried quickly, so I was ready to move the bench into the house. This required more muscle that I could muster myself, so I borrowed my neighbor's two teenage sons to move the beast. At over 8' it is not only ungainly, but very heavy. The boys were able to get the job done in less than 5 minutes without problem. The unit fit in the space under the window like a glove. It was even fairly level…which surprised me. A few small shims was all it took. I attached the unit to the brick wall with masonry screws and it's extremely solid. This is what it looks like as of tonight.
> 
> ...


Jeff,

Terrific seating and audio unit.

Very nicely executed.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Grandpa Len.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Knee wall*

I've been back in the shop the last several days working on the next phase of this project. My goal was to build a knee wall to cap off the stereo cabinet/window seat near the front door. This half wall will be 44" high, 42" long and 19" deep. I saved the baseboard I pulled earlier and will reuse it. This will be the configuration:









I spent two days constructing the wall out of 3/4" hardwood plywood and 1 by pine. It was fairly simple to put together. My wife wanted cubbys to hold baskets for gloves, scarves, etc….it has six. I daddo'd the shelves using my RAS and framed the front plywood edges with pine. Beadboard was used for backing. I used the RAS also for crosscuts and mitering…the table saw for ripping. This is what it looked like on the final glue-up:









Gave it a couple coats of primer using Zinsser BIN:









I was able to transport the wall from shop to house myself using a dolly, although it does weigh a ton. Installation was farily quick. I used masonary screws to attach it to the brick wall and wood screws to anchor it to the window seat. I'll trim it up, but here's close to the final look:


















I'm happy with the end product and have been inspired to proceed on to the next knee wall directly across from this one.


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## hobby1 (Feb 10, 2012)

mountainaxe said:


> *Knee wall*
> 
> I've been back in the shop the last several days working on the next phase of this project. My goal was to build a knee wall to cap off the stereo cabinet/window seat near the front door. This half wall will be 44" high, 42" long and 19" deep. I saved the baseboard I pulled earlier and will reuse it. This will be the configuration:
> 
> ...


Its nice to find another RAS. user on this forum, they still have there place in the shop as well.

Your projects came out really nice, you were going for the craftsman style, your work shows good craftsmanship all together.

I enjoyed your build blog.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Knee wall #2*

The last several days were spent in the shop working on the second knee wall which will stand opposite the first. This project is somewhat different and more complex than the first. My wife wanted this to serve as an enclosed storage unit. The challenge was to build a solid structure that has doors and access to the shelves the length of unit. This meant a different construction method was needed although the look had to be similar.

I decided to use 3/4" hardwood plywood for the top and sides, bead-board for the back and pine for the trim. To give the unit strength, I used construction grade 2×4s that I cleaned up using my joiner, planer, and table saw. Doors are similar in construction to those on the previously constructed window seat. This is what the initial glue up looked like:

















I wanted the shelving to be secure and also add stability, so decided to dado the 2×4s on three sides and notch the shelves; also, the plywood is dado'd on the sides. This method resulted in an extremely solid unit. The two doors were made of pine, simple lap joints, and 1/4" plywood panels. I again used hand forged iron hardware, which while expensive, looks pretty nice. Later, I will be building book shelves that join this unit at a 90 degree angle against the wall so that portion is unfinished. This was the final glue up:


















I put on a few coats of Zinsser BIN and it looks good. Although heavy, I was able to move this wall from shop to house using a dolly. Here are a few photos of what it looks like in place:



























My next project is to build a surround for an electric fireplace insert. I'll take the baseboard off and secure the unit to the wall, and trim when the insert enclosure is ready. Things are coming together well!


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## hobby1 (Feb 10, 2012)

mountainaxe said:


> *Knee wall #2*
> 
> The last several days were spent in the shop working on the second knee wall which will stand opposite the first. This project is somewhat different and more complex than the first. My wife wanted this to serve as an enclosed storage unit. The challenge was to build a solid structure that has doors and access to the shelves the length of unit. This meant a different construction method was needed although the look had to be similar.
> 
> ...


Your projects look very nice painted.

Your workmanship on the cabinets, with the prep work on the lumber, (2×4's) included, makes the woodwork look very nice even without paint.

Your prep work on the lumber, make the cabinet look good enough to stain, and still look as good as a furniture piece.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Fireplace surround*

Back in to the breach! As we approach ever nearer to Christmas day, my wife has been insisting that I return to the shop posthaste and build a fireplace surround for an electric unit we purchased last month so she can hang the stockings, etc. I figured that this project shouldn't be that difficult. The fireplace itself contained instructions as to the opening size required. I already knew that I wanted to build a comprehensive unit based on a 1907 Stickley built-in design that includes flanking bookcases. I'll downsize a little: About 48" tall and 42" wide. This is the idea:









The enclosure is made with 3/4" hardwood plywood secured to a 2 by 4 pine frame. I half lap jointed the 2×4s for extra stability. The mantel top was also constructed with 3/4" harwood plywood, but took a little more attention to detail. Since it overhangs the enclosure by 5" I had to cut 45 degree miters on 6 sides to complete the box. I used both my table saw and RAS and it came together better than expected. I primed it with a couple coats of Zinsser BIN and this is the result:



























I also purchased a pair of corbels on line as I knew this was something beyond my present band saw skill set. Pricey at $75, but well worth it, I think. I secured them to the unit via bolts:


















I painted the corbels a little later. Next step was to prepare the house for installation. I removed a portion of the baseboard trim using a new tool my wife let me purchase…a Bosch corded oscillating saw. This tool works like a dream; it's easy to use and incredibly precise in tight corners. See the results:


















I once again enlisted the help of my neighbors teenage sons to carry the enclosure/matel from shop to house. It was very awkward and heavy due to the overhanging mantel top. I secured the unit to the wall studs and the insert fit like a glove. My wife spent no time decorating. Here's the final result:









I'll likely start on the bookcases after the holidays, but I really like the way this project is turning out!


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## Kindlingmaker (Sep 29, 2008)

mountainaxe said:


> *Fireplace surround*
> 
> Back in to the breach! As we approach ever nearer to Christmas day, my wife has been insisting that I return to the shop posthaste and build a fireplace surround for an electric unit we purchased last month so she can hang the stockings, etc. I figured that this project shouldn't be that difficult. The fireplace itself contained instructions as to the opening size required. I already knew that I wanted to build a comprehensive unit based on a 1907 Stickley built-in design that includes flanking bookcases. I'll downsize a little: About 48" tall and 42" wide. This is the idea:
> 
> ...


It did turn out well and a good write up also!


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *Fireplace surround*
> 
> Back in to the breach! As we approach ever nearer to Christmas day, my wife has been insisting that I return to the shop posthaste and build a fireplace surround for an electric unit we purchased last month so she can hang the stockings, etc. I figured that this project shouldn't be that difficult. The fireplace itself contained instructions as to the opening size required. I already knew that I wanted to build a comprehensive unit based on a 1907 Stickley built-in design that includes flanking bookcases. I'll downsize a little: About 48" tall and 42" wide. This is the idea:
> 
> ...


Thanks, Kindlingmaker…these built-ins have been a great confidence builder. They let me tackle large, integrated pieces quickly and are forgiving in that mistakes can be easily fixed. And since I'm painting, I don't have to go crazy about wood types, matching grain, and finishing issues. Best part is that I've probably saved around $15K already in what it would have cost to have a finish carpenter/contractor built this set. That sure adds to my satisfaction level!


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*bookcases*

Yesterday, I finished installation of the two matching bookcases that flank the fireplace insert I constructed in December. This was a difficult build as I knew I had to perfectly fit these two cases against a wall, two knee walls, and the fireplace insert…all while keeping everything parallel, level, and in-line while taking into consideration an old house with sloping floors and wavy walls.

The construction of the basic book cases was fairly straight forward; they're just big boxes. In line with the other projects, I used 3/4" plywood for the carcass and shelves; 3/4" pine for the facing and trim; beadboard for the backing. After looking hard at our living room space, my wife decided that the cases should not include doors, as it would make the room feel smaller. I can always add them later, if she wants them. Since there is no front piece, I doubled the thickness of the top. I constructed both cases at the same time to ensure they were exactly the same dimensions. Here's what the original glue up looked like:


































I next painted the carcasses with Zinsser BIN (as on previous projects) and hauled them into the house. As I feared, nothing was holding a straight line. I spent a day trying to get everything aligned using shims, etc. It finally came together, although I had some significant gaps at the back and sides. I attached the cases with screws to the knee walls and the back wall. The next couple of days, I cut facing pieces that addressed some of the more glaring gaps. Then I made smaller patches to fill in the rest of the gaps, filled in the nail holes, etc. with putty and painted the trim. This is the final result:


















I put books (of which I own many!) into the cases right away…no sagging shelves to my relief. Frankly, it turned out better than I expected and my wife is pleased. What more can you ask for? The next phase in this effort is to build a couple of pilasters on the two knee walls. Should be interesting…


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## hobby1 (Feb 10, 2012)

mountainaxe said:


> *bookcases*
> 
> Yesterday, I finished installation of the two matching bookcases that flank the fireplace insert I constructed in December. This was a difficult build as I knew I had to perfectly fit these two cases against a wall, two knee walls, and the fireplace insert…all while keeping everything parallel, level, and in-line while taking into consideration an old house with sloping floors and wavy walls.
> 
> ...


very very nice.

I'm late to this blog, but I decided today to check on some blogs to look at to enjoy seeing other peoples talents, and yours was on the top of the forum list.

I'm glad I checked in, this is a very interesting build blog to read up on, very nice pictures too.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Pilasters*

Back in the shop this past week to continue with the craftsman built-ins. This phase of the project encompassed constructing pilasters to be placed on the two knee walls previously constructed. A pilaster is a rectangular support that resembles a flat column. The pilaster projects only slightly from the wall, and has a base, a shaft, and a capital. Mine are simple to mimic the columns on the adjoining half wall. I thought about running a beam across the ceiling, but, on second thought, decided that it would cut up the room and make it feel smaller.

There's nothing really fancy in the construction of these columns. I used 1/2" plywood for the flat surfaces and corner round for the trim (which hides the sins of imperfect angles!). The top and bottom caps are 1" stock. The beam stubs are small boxes made of 1/2" plywood and 3/4" stock. Angles were matched with existing columns.

Attachment was a little tricky. The bottom plate was glued/nailed to the knee wall first. I added cleats so the pilaster could attach to something…I glued/nailed it to the base. The top required that I cut the ceiling molding. Used my new oscillating saw…which made short and neat work of this cut. I toe-nailed the top of the pilaster to the ceiling molding. Of course, the walls were not square and necessitated patience in scribing the pieces. The gaps were filled with caulk. I painted with Zinsser BIN primer. I did have a challenge of moving an electric box into one of the pilasters. I'm no electrician, but this was a fairly straightforward effort.

This is the final product. Turned out nicely and really anchors the room. It also deceives the eye to think the room is taller than it is. Next project is the built-in bench/coat rack.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

mountainaxe said:


> *Pilasters*
> 
> Back in the shop this past week to continue with the craftsman built-ins. This phase of the project encompassed constructing pilasters to be placed on the two knee walls previously constructed. A pilaster is a rectangular support that resembles a flat column. The pilaster projects only slightly from the wall, and has a base, a shaft, and a capital. Mine are simple to mimic the columns on the adjoining half wall. I thought about running a beam across the ceiling, but, on second thought, decided that it would cut up the room and make it feel smaller.
> 
> ...


Wow, great build. Thanks for sharing, will have to remember this one


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Hall Bench and completion!*

I completed my final built-in Craftsman style project…a tall hall bench. I found plans in an old Woodsmith magazine and modified it to suit my overall idea. The plan itself was easy enough to follow, but since I was building it in, I avoiding the fussy mechanism for attaching the top. I was also able to use pine and 3/4" plywood as I was painting. The hall bench turned out nice and helps define the entry way by our front door. It also provides quite a lot of storage.



























The final step was to put a finish oil base paint on everything. I have been procrastinating because I'm not a great painter. Finally, I got some help from a friend of mine who had a sprayer and knew what he was doing. We spent a day prepping…caulking, masking, etc. The final product turned out great. I'm going to let the paint harden for a few days and then put everything back on the shelves. Overall the set of projects took me about 9 months to complete and cost under $1K. My wife is pleased…and therefore, so am I! Now she wants some built-ins made for the master bath. Oh well…back the the shop…


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## hobby1 (Feb 10, 2012)

mountainaxe said:


> *Hall Bench and completion!*
> 
> I completed my final built-in Craftsman style project…a tall hall bench. I found plans in an old Woodsmith magazine and modified it to suit my overall idea. The plan itself was easy enough to follow, but since I was building it in, I avoiding the fussy mechanism for attaching the top. I was also able to use pine and 3/4" plywood as I was painting. The hall bench turned out nice and helps define the entry way by our front door. It also provides quite a lot of storage.
> 
> ...


Excellent workmanship, (craftsmanship), you turned that room into a masterpiece.


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## camps764 (Dec 9, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *Hall Bench and completion!*
> 
> I completed my final built-in Craftsman style project…a tall hall bench. I found plans in an old Woodsmith magazine and modified it to suit my overall idea. The plan itself was easy enough to follow, but since I was building it in, I avoiding the fussy mechanism for attaching the top. I was also able to use pine and 3/4" plywood as I was painting. The hall bench turned out nice and helps define the entry way by our front door. It also provides quite a lot of storage.
> 
> ...


painted finish on it looks awesome!

Question - what did you use to seal the knots? Shellac? Caulk?


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *Hall Bench and completion!*
> 
> I completed my final built-in Craftsman style project…a tall hall bench. I found plans in an old Woodsmith magazine and modified it to suit my overall idea. The plan itself was easy enough to follow, but since I was building it in, I avoiding the fussy mechanism for attaching the top. I was also able to use pine and 3/4" plywood as I was painting. The hall bench turned out nice and helps define the entry way by our front door. It also provides quite a lot of storage.
> 
> ...


I primed with two coats of ZinsserBin. It's got a shellac base that seals the knots and stops any movement due to moisture change (which is problematic with pine). It's expensive, but worth it. I found it also helps to harden the surface of the pine and definitely provides a good foundation for final paint.


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## camps764 (Dec 9, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *Hall Bench and completion!*
> 
> I completed my final built-in Craftsman style project…a tall hall bench. I found plans in an old Woodsmith magazine and modified it to suit my overall idea. The plan itself was easy enough to follow, but since I was building it in, I avoiding the fussy mechanism for attaching the top. I was also able to use pine and 3/4" plywood as I was painting. The hall bench turned out nice and helps define the entry way by our front door. It also provides quite a lot of storage.
> 
> ...


awesome, thanks!


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## Buckethead (Apr 14, 2013)

mountainaxe said:


> *Hall Bench and completion!*
> 
> I completed my final built-in Craftsman style project…a tall hall bench. I found plans in an old Woodsmith magazine and modified it to suit my overall idea. The plan itself was easy enough to follow, but since I was building it in, I avoiding the fussy mechanism for attaching the top. I was also able to use pine and 3/4" plywood as I was painting. The hall bench turned out nice and helps define the entry way by our front door. It also provides quite a lot of storage.
> 
> ...


Fantastic!


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

*Bathroom Chest of Drawers*

Continuing the Craftsman theme in our home, I've moved to the master bath. My wife has always complained about needing more storage space. I found inspiration for "his and hers" built-in chest of drawers in the plan-book by Robert W. Lang, Shop Drawing for Craftsman Interiors, Cabinet Moldings & Built-Ins for Every Room in the Home. Plans were straight forward.

Because the chests will be so close to the sink and submitted to high doses of humidity/water, I chose to use HD hardwood plywood throughout. Carcass material is 3/4" plywood with 1/4" backing. Drawers are fronted with 3/4" plywood, 1/2" plywood sides/back, and 1/4" plywood bottoms. I trimmed with poplar to hide the plywood edges and banded the top with strips of oak to minimize denting. My plan was to maximize drawer space by doing away with runners. I felt the drawers were small enough that I wouldn't have problems with binding. As an exercise in trade craft, I also decided to dovetail all the drawers. This turned out to be a mixed blessing. Frankly, producing dovetails on plywood with a router table was incredibly frustrating as I suffered through countless tear outs, burnt bits, etc. On the plus side, I did learn how to make a lot of dovetails efficiently.


















The project went together smoothly, but I took my time in getting it done. The plan called for the drawers to increase in size from top to bottom, so each cutting was unique. Although I liked the plywood pattern the drawers left when complete, my wife thought otherwise. 









Final verdict was to paint the chests in colors similar to the bathroom: White exterior & blue interior; non-exposed parts were simply clear sealed. The result is pleasing to the eye, although I lost the ability to see the dovetails I put so much effort in to! Hardware came from Restoration Hardware & has a period feel.


























Installing the cabinets was a little time consuming. Because of all the plumbing, I decided to cut away drywall in order to put eyeballs on the studs and piping. This actually made the fitting easier as I could inset the chests aiding my ability to level them…and I avoided any plumbing disasters. After the chests were installed, I coated the interior spaces and drawer bottoms with ordinary canning wax. Worked like a charm; no problems with binding. I'm pleased with the result and so's the wife.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

mountainaxe said:


> *Bathroom Chest of Drawers*
> 
> Continuing the Craftsman theme in our home, I've moved to the master bath. My wife has always complained about needing more storage space. I found inspiration for "his and hers" built-in chest of drawers in the plan-book by Robert W. Lang, Shop Drawing for Craftsman Interiors, Cabinet Moldings & Built-Ins for Every Room in the Home. Plans were straight forward.
> 
> ...


The paint is a nice choice - it goes with the room.


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## BobLang (Feb 2, 2009)

mountainaxe said:


> *Bathroom Chest of Drawers*
> 
> Continuing the Craftsman theme in our home, I've moved to the master bath. My wife has always complained about needing more storage space. I found inspiration for "his and hers" built-in chest of drawers in the plan-book by Robert W. Lang, Shop Drawing for Craftsman Interiors, Cabinet Moldings & Built-Ins for Every Room in the Home. Plans were straight forward.
> 
> ...


Nice work. My book, "Shop Drawings for Craftsman Interiors" is available directly from me, as are my other books and videos.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

mountainaxe said:


> *Bathroom Chest of Drawers*
> 
> Continuing the Craftsman theme in our home, I've moved to the master bath. My wife has always complained about needing more storage space. I found inspiration for "his and hers" built-in chest of drawers in the plan-book by Robert W. Lang, Shop Drawing for Craftsman Interiors, Cabinet Moldings & Built-Ins for Every Room in the Home. Plans were straight forward.
> 
> ...


Bob: Love your book; plans are easy to follow and your drawings are very helpful. And measurements are spot on. As you can see from my previous entries, I've used your ideas to outfit my living room, too, with the fireplace/bookcase design. Wish you'd come out with another one covering built-ins!


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