# Evapo Rust - Still Impressive



## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

Love this stuff! I get mine at Autozone….


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## TechRedneck (Jul 30, 2010)

Tractor supply has it as well. It cleaned up an old rusty Stanley 110 plane. Buffed lightly with wire brush chucked in the drill press and it is good to go. Good stuff !!


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Hmm, Auto Zone and Tractor Suppy. Good to know.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

*Tractor Supply is $10 cheaper per gallon than HF.*


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

I got mine at Tractor Supply. They only had the gallon size in the store I was at.


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## ChrisCrafts (Apr 28, 2011)

Yep great product. Bought my Grizzly Cabinet Saw covered in a half inch of rust. Tried Vinegar, Oil, Even my beloved Boeshield, only thing that would touch it was good old EvapoRust. Took some elbow grease but it looks beautiful now! Since then I have used it to refurbish 4 Bandsaws and 3 Jointers.


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Chris do you have any before and after photos of your saw? If you've not seen, check out my previos posting about this product. (see above) I have inherited my Dad's tools and his Grizzly was loaded with rust to, as was the bandsaw. The results of this product were amazing and the before and after photos I took really show Evapo Rust's power.


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## poppi (Oct 1, 2009)

I need it and I will be sure to try it, I live in the Seattle area, need I say more.


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## mvflaim (Dec 8, 2009)

I used Evaporust for several years and bought it in the five gallon bucket. I loved it and never had a complaint other than the price. Then recently I tried Citric Acid. I found that it works just as well but it's a tenth of the price. I use one ounce per one gallon of water and I can buy 10 ounces for $20.00


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## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

if you guys like this i wonder id need close to 5 gallons to dip planes in would it be better or faster than electrolysis or taking my planes to the radiator shop and dunking them in the tank this removes all the japanning too how is this stuff on paint and japanning


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

It doesn't bother japanning.


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## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

so it would be good for planes i want to keep japanning on and for bad ones ill still strip them at the radiator shop
what is the price of 5 gallons


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Hey "dude", what's japanning??


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

Wow. I'll have to look into that stuff. I have been using naval jelly and it seems to etch the surface. does Evapo rust remover do that?.................Jim


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Jim - I've not noticed any etching in the least.


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## woodzy (Jan 24, 2011)

This is the greatest chemical i have in my shop. 
It's easy to work with, doesn't give me headaches and is EXTREAMLY effective. I Buy it at Canadian Tire. $9.99 + Taxes. Lee Valley sells it too, a little priceier for a little less. (The Lee Valley Way)

I actually have a bucket of it in the garage right now cleaning an adjustable cresant wrench, some plane parts, an old square and a few ods and ends to raise just for fun.
I have been looking for a Larger container … ... but have been unsuccessful.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

hjt, Japanning is the paint on the body of the plane…


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## Tootles (Jul 21, 2011)

I managed to get my hands on some today. Looking on the bottle it says that it will not affect rubber, plastic, PVC, copper, brass, aluminium or vinyl. But it says nothing about wood and one of the things that I want to clean is a fret saw with a wooden handle that I do not think I can remove. What is the general experience in cases such as this? Any suggestions of how to proceed?


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## Albert (Jul 28, 2008)

Amazon.com also has it, I ordered a quart to try it out. Thanks for the tip.


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Tootles - I have no idea about wood. Of course I'm sure you've already thought of getting a piece of old wood (bound to have some laying around) and try it.

I just looked up fret saw - had never heard of it before. Looks like a coping saw to me.

BAck to your question. While the instructions say to soak the parts, its obvious that some parts are simply to big to sit in a pail of the product. And besides, I don't need 100 gal drum to dip parts in. I find brushing works for big items (like table saw) or small items like what you have where you wish to avoid certain areas.

In your case, you could get a baking sheet and pour the product on, but you are still left with the handle issue. So pour a little ER in a container. Pour just what you think you might use - you don't want to pour used product back into the bottle. Now use a brush to brush it on. Brush more on every few minutes so it doesn't dry on the saw.

If you are still concerned that you might splash some ER on the handle, use a little Vaseline to protect the wood handle.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

*@Tootles *, I soaked a hammer with a rusted head in the ER and the once loose handle is now a nice tight , secure fit in the head again. The hammerhead is rust free as well. I did not submerge the whole handle , just the working end of it , and it seems fine : )


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

just a note, if you don't completely submerge a piece, evapo-rust will etch right at the water line. Make sure its completely covered with evapo-rust.

Dude, I do planes all the time with 1 gallon. Just make a sheet metal tray. I made mine for rifle barrels, but works well for planes too.









Its just bent flashing material.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

Ditto the etching as described by DonW. !!


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## Tootles (Jul 21, 2011)

*Dusty*, your benefit is exactly the consequence that I'm concerned about - the wood absorbed the evaporust and swelled up! That's great for a hammer but may not be the effect that I want for a saw handle.

Vaseline is an interesting idea though. I might be able to do something with that. I do think I will need to soak the that saw though - it's really bad. I have others that that are not so bad that I could possibly just brush it on.

Thanks for the replies


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

I was thinking of using Dusty's approach for a hatchet handle with some BLO. Does BLO react with metal at all? The hatchet head is in great shape.

What is the key issue with removing the handle? Have a photo?


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## Tootles (Jul 21, 2011)

A photo below of both the fret saw (on the left) and a coping saw to provide a comparison for *hjt*










As you can see, it is possible to unscrew the coping saw handle, so no problem there. The fret saw handle, however, is fixed. It niether comes off nor provides a means for the blade to be rotated as is possible with the coping saw. And the thing is that the fret saw frame is an awkward shape for finding a container in which to suspend the saw with just the handle hanging out.

And *Wayne*, being an oil, I would think that BLO would have no effect on the hatchet head. You may just want to wipe it down with turpentine or mineral spirits when you remove it.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

*WayneC* , I've only seen BLO in metal cans to date….I've had no ill effects on my wheel barrow handles where the straps and other metal contacts them…also used on hoes and shovel handles .


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Thanks. I'll give it a try and report back.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

*Tootles* , how about a 1 gallon zip-lock baggie ?


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## Tootles (Jul 21, 2011)

I've been thinking along the lines of a zip-lock bag. The point at which I got stuck is that I either have to seal the handle inside the bag (hence my original question) or I have to keep the bag open and upright, in which case the bag will sag open and take a large volume which will thereafter no longer be "clean" evaporust.

On the other hand, if I were to clamp the saw (inside the bag) bewteen two peices of hardboard that I have, I might be able to limit the volume a bit. Hmmm, that might work. I'll keep you updated - probably do a blog or something.

Thanks for the help.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

If you cut the top off of a 2 Liter bottle , will the saw body fit into it ?


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## Tootles (Jul 21, 2011)

No, too big for either a 2 or 3 litre bottle. But this is what I have come up with so far …










I haven't poured the ER in yet. I'm sharing this bottle with my father so I've washed a bottle to decant into but it's not dry yet (does that matter?). But I have some confidence that this will work. And if it doesn't, I have the green box lid at the bottom to catch the spillage.


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## Radu (Jan 25, 2010)

You could soak up some rags or paper towel in ER and then wrap the saw frame with them. Then put them in a plastic bag or wrap with plastic to keep it moist.


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## danzaland (Jul 7, 2009)

FYI I purchased a 1 gallon jug at Harbor Freight for $19.99. I printed out the Tractor Supply ad for it at that price and went up and said you price match right? They did/do, but I wasn't allowed to use the 20% off coupon.. oh well Got what I needed at a reasonable price.


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

NOw this is whatLJ is all about and why it is so successful. Look at all these folks coming together, sharing thoughts and offering idesa! LOVE THIS SITE!!!

Tootles - Ill be looking forward to see your results.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Radu, id suggest against soaking paper towel in ER to remove rust. I tried it with some Disston saws and the paper towels stuck to the saw blade once the ER evaporated. Kind of a pain in the a the get off. Besides thative had great luck with the stuff. You can reuse the stuff too, taking a tips from someone around here i filter it through coffee filters back into the jug until its black. Then i toss it.


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## Tootles (Jul 21, 2011)

Just a bit of feedback. I tried the setup shown in the photo above and it looked as though it was going to be successful except that the plastic bag in the photo is a lightweight freezer bag that sprung a slow but steady leak. So off I went to buy something more heavy duty - zip-locks as it turned out - and I tried again.

I left it overnight and most of the rust came off, but I think that perhaps it could be even better so it is back in soaking for a bit longer. I'll post photos when I'm happy with it.

The one thing that I have found interesting is that I have needed to top up the liquid periodically - it seems that the ER evaporates, not just the rust.


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## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

ill try it but what does it cost and a gallon in a pan wont cover a no8 i don't think a no 4 maybe how about a plastic tupperware pan

Japanning describes the European imitation of Asian lacquerwork, originally used on furniture. The word originated in the 17th century.
Contents
[hide]

1 Japanned
2 Development in Europe
2.1 Wolverhampton and Bilston
3 Japanned metal
4 Applications
5 See also
6 References
7 Further reading
8 External links

[edit] Japanned

Japanned is most often a heavy black lacquer, almost like enamel paint. The European technique uses varnishes that have a resin base, similar to shellac, applied in heat-dried layers which are then polished, to give a smooth glossy finish. It can also come in reds, greens and blues.

Originating in India, China and Japan as a decorative coating for pottery, it made its way into Europe by the 17th century. In the late 17th century, high European demand and rumours that higher quality pieces were not exported led to production starting in Italy. Its traditional form can be found using gold designs and pictorials, contrasting with the black base color.
[edit] Development in Europe

As the demand for all things japanned grew, the Italian technique for imitating Asian lacquerwork also spread.

The Art of Japanning developed in 18th century England at the court of King George III, and Queen Charlotte. The art of applying paper cut outs to other items (decoupage) became very popular, especially the botanically inspired works of Mary Delaney.
[edit] Wolverhampton and Bilston
Victorian letter holder, c1850

Wolverhampton and Bilston were important centres for the manufacture of japanned ware. Trade directories for 1818 list 20 firms of japanners in Wolverhampton and 15 in Bilston.[1] Many men, women and children made their living from the trades: according to Samuel Timmins' book Birmingham and the Midland Hardware District, published in 1866, there were 2000 people employed in the japanning and tin-plate industries in Wolverhampton and Bilston at the time. Japanning firms ranged in size from small family workshops, which often adjoined the proprietor's home, to a few large factories employing over 250 people. In the larger workshops, the production of tin plate and papier-mâché articles and the japanning process all took place under one roof, while small workshops tended to carry out only one or two of the trades, usually tin-plate working and japanning.
Victorian japanned ware blotter cover, Loveridge & Co

At the height of its popularity, richly decorated japanned ware was to be seen in every middle class home, but from the mid-19th century this began to change. By the 1880s, the japanning and tin-plate industries were in decline. This was due partly to changes in fashion and taste and partly due to the development of electroplating. In response, makers of japanned ware began to focus on more utilitarian items, including japanned cash boxes. Many turned to other trades, including enamelling, electroplating and the manufacture of copper and brass coal scuttles, fire screens and kettles. By the 1920s, the West Midlands' decorative japanned ware industry had largely died out. Many firms began to supply japanned metal to the newly established bicycle and motor vehicle industries, and some even made their own bicycles. The most successful of these was John Marston, whose japanning factory began making bicycles in 1887. The bicycle manufacturing part of the business quickly became more successful than the production of decorative japanned ware, and Marston's factory was renamed the Sunbeam Cycle Works.
[edit] Japanned metal
Further information: Pontypool japan

Ironware was japanned black, for decorative reasons. It was also used to render it rustproof, suitable for carrying water. A signifiant industry developed at Pontypool and Usk, shortly before tinplate began to be made in the area. Japanned ware was being also made at Bilston by 1719 and later elsewhere in the area.[2]
[edit] Applications

In the 19th and 20th centuries, this lacquering technique evolved into the handicraft of decoupage. Decoupage focuses less on furniture and more on temporary boxes and toiletry containers.

The technique was also developed to protect wood and later industrial metal objects such as hand planes and builders' hardware. Later, it was as an insulating film on transformer laminations. It was also used as the substrate for the tintype photographic process.
[edit] See also

Japan black

[edit] References

^ The history of Wolverhampton, the city and its people http://www.wolverhamptonhistory.org.uk/work/industry/japanning
^ M. B. Rowlands, Masters and Men in the West Midlands metalware trades before the industrial revolution (Manchester University Press 1975), 134-136 etc.

[edit] Further reading

Eerdmans, Emily (2006). "The International Court Style: William & Mary and Queen Anne: 1689-1714, The Call of the Orient". Classic English Design and Antiques: Period Styles and Furniture; The Hyde Park Antiques Collection. New York: Rizzoli International Publications. pp. 22-25. ISBN 978-0-8478-2863-0.

[edit] External links

Japanning

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## Tootles (Jul 21, 2011)

Okay, here are some photos of the results:



















As you can see, still some speckling of the steel, but there doesn't seem to be any rust in there. I did originally try to soak it longer to see if I could get a better result, but I think that is as good as it gets - it's good enough anyway. Actually, it wasn't even quite as good as that when it first came out of the ER, I rubbed it down with a bit of steel wool, dipped in ER, to clean it that little bit more.

And look what appeared from behind the rust:










Anybody know about Hobbies fretsaws?

Now, the handle is next …


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

WOW! Tootles - that came out great! Real happy for you. I'm sure you are happy too. As for Hobbies Fretsaws, I can tell you that they were/are made in England. But you probably already knew that. Glad this blog helped you.


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## thiel (May 21, 2009)

For large items, I generally use a heavy-mil garbage bag, trimmed to fit around "impromptu" supports in order to make pools of various shapes and sizes. The recess in my bench makes for a perfect place for long flat items.

At Tractor Supply, where do you guys find this? I went today and all I could find was oxaloacetic acid or whatever….

-Dvd


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

I believe it was in aisle 9 , David. (in the Southwick store) 
Be sure to Call ahead , it was a surprise for three of their employees to actually find out that they do stock it after all !! LOL 
I was able to check their inventory SKU # online before calling.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/automotive-additives/evapo-rust-trade-super-safe-rust-remover-1-gal--1340932


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## thiel (May 21, 2009)

Thanks… that's helpful!


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## pierce85 (May 21, 2011)

David, Foster Farrar in Northampton carries Evapo-Rust - less of a drive for ya. They don't always have it on the floor…might have to ask to get it from the back.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

Tractor Supply is also located in Greenfield , pierce85…. : )
How much is FF charging for a gallon ?


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## laxbograt (Oct 4, 2011)

This stuff is spot on, the first time I used it I had mixed results due to the fact that the item had more pitting on the iron then i thought. But the second time I used it, it was like one of those infomercials you see at 4am, I let half of my rust covered antique brace sit in it overnight when I woke up pulled it out wiped it down and looked like a brand new tool.

Awesome Harbor Freight product. Could not believe it worked so well!!!

*
Carlos
Rookie Woodworker*


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