# Table Saw Workstation Build ???



## jaidee (Oct 16, 2010)

Hello,

Been a while since I've posted…..I'm looking for opinions on a project I'm designing.

Want to build a workstation/cart for my Rigid TS-3650 table saw that will include better support for the Router Table Extension I built for it years ago and lots of storage and outfeed table. Metal stand is getting wobbly and showing fatigue so will be tossing it. I don't typically break down sheet goods on the table saw, I have a panel saw I built in my garage for that purpose. Cart will be about 6 foot long by 4 feet deep and ride on (6) 4" swivel casters mounted to torsion box base with uppers constructed with 3/4" plywood (dado/glue/screw).

Here is my question…...is it better to have the saw body sitting on a supported platform and shim the base to flush the table with cart top? Or is it better to hang the saw on a frame supporting it under the cast iron table wings, shimming under the wings to flush it up?

It obviously makes a big difference in the overall design and layout. I can sketch up both ways to see which makes more sense from an efficient use of space perspective but am more interested in making sure the saw is stable and well supported. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and insights!

JD


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## bndawgs (Oct 21, 2016)

I chose to sit my Craftsman TS on a supported platform in the mobile table saw cabinet I built.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> Here is my question…...is it better to have the saw body sitting on a supported platform and shim the base to flush the table with cart top? Or is it better to hang the saw on a frame supporting it under the cast iron table wings, shimming under the wings to flush it up?
> 
> JD
> - jaidee


For support of the tool, and safe operation I would suggest to set the base of the tool firmly onto whatever you end up doing when you replace the legs. Essentially this is what you are doing, is replacing the legs, with a wider, better storage option. No shims, just flat on the deck you make to set the saw on directly. Set it flat on something, and measure from the something, up to the exact edge of the table. Make it precisely that size.

Lifting, moving or holding a Table saw up by it's extension wings, often ends poorly.


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## jaidee (Oct 16, 2010)

Hello again,

One more question as I begin the build…...I can assemble as illustrated in the picture here, using glued dados screwing thru the dado for additional strength. Or I can forego the dados and assemble using butt joints and pocket screw joinery. Any thoughts on which would be stronger and more durable? Or would it simply be a matter of personal preference?

Also, the bottom will be a torsion box around 5" casters (6 of them not shown yet). Thanks in advance…...

JD


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

If you plan on using pocket screws, I'd add or glue in wood furring strips next to or under the pocket joints for extra support. Personally I'd make the framing with 2×4's, then add plywood, MDF board or laminate boards for shelving or top work surface. Would be strong enough to add casters if you wish.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Using glue, and either a Dado, or a Pocket screw if the parts are all well fitted, and approximate each other fully once the glue dries it will be stronger than the wood, so the fix you use to help keep them approximated until the glue dries is a wash.

Norm was a life achievement winner at approximation of just a butt join, with glue, that was simply pinned until the glue dried. His stuff is still sound. The real magic is accurately cut parts so you aren't trying to join a bunch of gaps, and off angles.

This doesn't need to support thousands of pounds of roof, just a smallish TS, and some jigs. I think you are overthinking it.


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