# What is Safest Way? --- 1/2in Roundover Bits on Totes



## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

I have started making my own hand plane totes and knobs and am wondering about what other LJs feel is the safest method for routing a 1/2in round-over on a new tote? I am not talking about rounding completely by hand. Even Lee Valley references using a router to do this task of rounding over these complex curves on a tote.

Please feel free include pictures showing your particular method and feel free to explain why and how, etc. to best do this. You know the old adage, 'A picture is worth a thousand words'... *;-)*

Instructions from http://www.leevalley.com/us/html/16j4010k.pdf
"...Final shaping can be done with a combination of
round-over router bits, rasps, carving tools, sandpaper,
etc. Proceed carefully, testing the grip often to ensure
a comfortable handle. Sand the final shape smooth and
finish as desired…"

How can the below image/method be improved upon?


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## Jeff28078 (Aug 27, 2009)

In the past when I had to rout small items and I felt my fingers were too close to the bit I'd make a jig to hold the piece. Gives you a lot more control too. From your picture I'd say that was too close for my comfort.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Thanks Jeff. That is exactly why I ask the question above about safety. I am looking to see what kinds of jigs others may have made for this particular task in making HP totes safer to round over.


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## LukieB (Jan 8, 2012)

Mike, I use a 12" wooden hand screw clamp. I have to loosen it/tighten it 4 times on each one, but it keeps my fingers the hell away from that spinning finger eater….


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

Use a clamp. The best are wooden clamps, as they've got some mass and sit square to the bit.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

you can do what Jeff said of just use a wooden screw clamps to hold the tote or buy a small adjustable small part clamp.


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## Kroden (Apr 23, 2012)

Interesting, I cut out a tote the other day, but haven't rounded it yet. I considered doing it by hand, but the router method seems quicker and more accurate. I think I might try with just a push paddle.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Bam! There goes my first *"Gee, I coulda' had a V8"* moment! Great idea, and simple too! Thanks.

BRAINSTORMING: Anyone using a bolted rod through the tote, in any way? Maybe to hold a wedge to square up the top of the tote for the clamp?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Mike, I could have sworn I had a picture like a1Jim shows on my blog, but its not there. But to be honest though, I free hand it like you show, and sneak up on the cut.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Kinda slow typing on my first response. You could also just attach a couple sticks with hot glue ,route then remove the sticks, not sure about using a bolt through the tote.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Scott, I am thinking that the 'push stick' would not be enough. I did a couple totes as posted in the OP and it scared the dickens out of me, and chipped the tote's toe on the right every time. It sent the tote flying and I was left with my fingers way too close for comfort. This clamp thing is sounding better all the time! That FIRM grip on the tote is the only thing keeping it from flying when it contacts that cutter.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Jim,
Hot-gluing the cut-offs back on also sounds like a great idea, as that should help me keep from cutting my right toe off (see above). **


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

James101, that also sounds doable, but I don't currently have a trim router to play with. Maybe this would be motivation to save for one. Hmm…


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

That sound like a winner Mike
I have also used my old PC router and a router mat to do it by hand ,these mats are nothing more than a piece of carpet pad. It has always seemed weird that they hold pieces why you hand route but they work and for the most part they do.
If you can find one of these old routers grab it it's perfect for round over operations ,the two or three I own cost me less than $20 each.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Well, I just ran out to the shop and tried the wooden clamp idea on the Zebrawood tote as seen above. I had to finagle with a couple of the cutoff pieces to wedge it properly and even used the end of the tote rod sticking out, to keep it in place while clamping. Cool! Think I may have had the router turned up a bit high as things wanted to burn rather easily, but other than that I feel A LOT SAFER routing these totes with a clamp.

Jim,
I have rubber mats in my metal-working tool drawers that will probably grab as you indicate. My thoughts are that I probably need to build an equal thickness frame a couple of inches larger than the tote, and that would help me keep the router operating as flat as possible. I think I will practice with some left over Ash, as that Zebrawood and Rosewood is expensive.

I sure appreciate the ideas folks! They helped clear my mind and shake out the cobwebs… *;-)* Sometimes the best ideas are the simplest, but you just have to know they exist in order to take advantage of them. Thanks!

Here is how my clamping turned out this morning:


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

*HMike*....I found this tip in my vast collection of tips that might work for you. In reference to your comment below. In the tip, instead of double stick tape as suggested, you could use those mats from your drawer.

Jim,
I have rubber mats in my metal-working tool drawers that will probably grab as you indicate. My thoughts are that I probably need to build an equal thickness frame a couple of inches larger than the tote, and that would help me keep the router operating as flat as possible. I think I will practice with some left over Ash, as that Zebrawood and Rosewood is expensive.


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## lwllms (Jun 1, 2009)

Mike,
Put a clear acrylic base on your router for visibility and rigidly lock the totes in place. My old partner used to make totes as in your original photo. He never got his hand into the router bit but it was because he was lucky. He did often lose totes when the grain caught and usually ended up with a sore hand or two when the tote kicked back at him. I kept telling him to make a fixture but he never did. After he left, this is what I made for the two of us who do this now. You do need to standardize the shape and thickness of your totes for this to work. One side does the left side of either style tote and the other side does the right side of either style tote. We make a number of these each month and it works well. The back is as hollow as I could make it to give a place for saw dust to go.


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## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

Hello 
First:
Use a european style router bit (anti kick back design) with a very small chip "room". And also it is important that the tooth of the routerbit is a liitle (as small as possible) bigger in diameter than the body. Use an old (very often resharpend) bit. 
Second,
Start with a smaller radius.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

lwllms,
Now THAT is slick! Wow! Great idea.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

You probably could have gotten that angle without the wedge, as that type of clamp is designed to adjust to some pretty extreme angles. Your placing the bolt in there seems like a good idea, keep it from popping out like a squeezed melon seed.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

runswithscissors's,
I tried, but it kept slipping, plus I did not like the way it was compressing the upper tail end of the tote (seen too many broken totes in that very spot!). Close call,... and I liked the added gripping with the wedge in place. Good question though… Thanks.


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## fussy (Jan 18, 2010)

Mike,

It looks as if you're sneeking up on a solution, but one thing that disturbs me is the grain direction of you4r piece. I believe the graqin should run the other way. You escaped this time, but is that orientation not just asking for a catch to split the bloank and turn it into shrapnel? Of course there's the problem of screwing into end grain my way. Maybe that's a good reason for plastic totes. Be careful.

Steve


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

HMike - How did the tote turn out using the routing jig?


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Steve,
You're probably correct. This is my first time working with Zebrawood and for the record, I see no advantage over, say White Ash, in either looks or grain pattern. I will make the remaining totes and knobs (4 and 3) from my 2×8x8 piece but will probably not return to this wood for the very reason you state. Very expensive (~$33.00), however, probably worth the effort in learning to work with it. My Honduras Rosewood seems to be much better suited for this type of duty, FWIW. Still have to experiment with a piece of Black Walnut as well… Stay tuned.


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## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

lwllms,

Now THAT is what is called "good old Yankee ingenuity"! Or as I usually say, a "Brainiac moment". I'll keep that in mind before I put my pickers that close to a router or table saw again.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

kdc68, the image above shows that it worked well. Still need the obligatory hand-filing and sanding, but things look real good. Thanks for asking.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Thanks Jack. Still have to manually round the right side of the toe, but it sure beats chipping it out when catching it on the router bit.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

Good idea, I'd think the heft of the clamp would also add some stability and give you more control too. I'll have to remember this.


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

its always good to leave a tailing edge to handle, to remove the possibility of those acute changes of direction in grain where tear out is a distinct possibility, can be avoided by adding a …."tail"….. which when cut off, leaves a crisp joint to tool.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Mike, take a clamp like you show above, or even just a U shaped jig, cut one side shorter and have the center bolt go through the clamp (both arms). If you made a jig, make it 1" and you'd just need to flip the whole thing for the second route. With the wider clamp you'd need to move the tote.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Nice result with the wooden clamps freehand would of scared the ….lol


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Another way: make the tote blank extra long. Do the roundovers. Do the straight cuts-top and bottom-last.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

That is cool!
I could almost feel my fingers cut open at the first picture.
Thanks for sharing.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Beautiful tote!


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## joeyinsouthaustin (Sep 22, 2012)

There are some good ideas here. I prefer clamping small items to a sled, The down ward pressure holds steady, and the sled gives to plenty of room to get the hands away, and a stable base that can be used to attatch handles and fences and such. Here is one I made from 1/2" baltic birch ply and maple I use to make ogee cabinet feet. (you can see it is set up as a pattern sled, but easy to modify for what you are doing. I added fences in stratigic places to back up the end grain.(this would serve your needs well) You can add t-track etc. and even spots so you can start your pass off the work peice, lowering the chances of burn marks as you start off the pin. This idea would be easy for you to modify for your totes, and quick enough modify to not have to make a standard jig. I notice you are running a shaper with starter pin, and this works great for that, and with exotics you can also attach that hose to the sled for better dust collection that follows your piece through.








figure I would include the plane, for reference.. nothing fancy as far as I know, but some of ya'll are into that.


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## Woodbridge (Oct 12, 2011)

Thanks for the great tips. I need to make a tote for one of me refurbished planes. Your suggestion certainly make rounding over the edges much safer.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Don: "...Mike, take a clamp like you show above, or even just a U shaped jig, cut one side shorter and have the center bolt go through the clamp (both arms). If you made a jig, make it 1" and you'd just need to flip the whole thing for the second route. With the wider clamp you'd need to move the tote…."

Hey Don, this actually turned out to be easy with the standard 2" wide Jorgensen clamp. You just flip it and slightly loosen one turn-screw and let the tote/wedge drop to the bottom and re-tighten. I was surprised how easy that step ended up being. Then for the 'other' side of the tote, you do the same 'two-step' flip over method.

Boy I am sure glad I asked this question! I never knew that so many safer alternatives existed for routing round-overs on totes!

Thanks guys! **


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Yep, and you can still count to 10 

Well 20 if you take your shoes off.


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## jumbojack (Mar 20, 2011)

Geez Mike wihen I saw that first pic my butt could be heard slamming shut. I tried rounding over some two inch circles and had one snatched from my fingers. Nearly soiled myself.


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## lwllms (Jun 1, 2009)

Mike,
You had the correct grain orientation for a tote in your first photo. There you have the most dimensionally stable grain running with the length of a long metal fastener. For wooden planes and no long metal fastener you want the tote to have the same grain orientation as the body of the plane so there's minimal differential in seasonal movement. Both of these require quarter sawn wood with the annular rings running parallel to the sole. I find it to also be the most aesthetically pleasing as well.


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## exelectrician (Oct 3, 2011)

Mike when I did my last batch of totes I left a chunk of wood on the bottom and the top of the un-rounded edges. This gave me some but not as much safety as you got with the clamp above (which I really like) Also I have the plastic ring on my router 1/8th of an inch larger than my bit. I cut the top curve and the flat bottom edges off with the Bandsaw after rounding over.


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## 489tad (Feb 26, 2010)

Nice job Mike. Tote looks good.


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