# RADIAL ARM SAW OR TABLE SAW? PLEASE HELP!



## nightowlll (Feb 22, 2012)

OK, I am not a professional carpenter but I have made some things for myself and my family over the last 20 years such as dog houses, entertainment centers, tables, etc.

However, about 7 years ago I sold a Delta Table saw I had bought for a couple of hundred dollars. It wasn't a very expensive model and I wasn't too happy with the wobbly stamped steel base it came with. Also, the rip capacity was only like 18inches I didn't buy an extension or anything.

Now, I haven't really done a project for a while but plan on doing some a lot more now that I have the time.

Money is still quite limited and I have seen some used table saws as well as used radial arm saws on Craigslist and other places. I have never used a radial arm saw before but they look like they can be much easier to use than a table saw. Can anyone tell me what they recommend if I only could afford to buy one? And why?

What is usually the maximum rip capacity for a radial saw?

I'm planning on working with a lot of 4'x8' plywood, etc.

Also, my garage/my shop is kind of limited on space and I heard from someone that table saws need much more room than a radial saw.

Thanks for your help in advance!

Nightowlll


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

The 4×8 limits you to pretty much using a table saw. I think you will find the TS more versatile.Where I live(Tampa Fl) there are a number of RAS's a week on CL. I thought about one ,once but most on LJ's did not recommend it.


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## dufus7441 (Jul 15, 2010)

I have both and favor the table saw over the radial arm saw. Mostly use the radial arm saw for cross cut, use the table saw for ripping, and joint work. Also use the table saw for mitre joints.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

I worked with both. When I needed accuracy I always went to my table saw. I had a very good table built for my radial arm and for my table saw. I tried dado's but was never happy with the results. It seemed I needed to constantly tune the arm for up and down as well as sideways accuracy. My radial arm was capable of RIPPINg a 4×8 sheet in half the long way.(Making 2 24" x 96" panels). When I needed to cut material for making rafters or wall studs - the Radial Arm saw was the one I used. 
IF I had to choose ONE…. TABLE SAW hands down….(But that is Me, I live on my table saw)


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

If it's all about what one saw can do over the other then a table saw wins hands down. If it's about being very limited on funds then a radial arm saw can be had for as low as $25 because folks are replacing them with sliding compound saws.
If you can handle around $500 you can get a fairly good used cabinet table saw or a new Ridgid table saw in that price range.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

One might consider a track saw. I understand money is limited, but a track saw is way versatile, like Festool.

Nightowlll you might be content with a Bosch 4100 fold up table saw, and if I were you I would get a table saw, no doubt.


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## ShipWreck (Feb 16, 2008)

Please consider going to a straight edge cutting system instead of using a table saw on 4X8 sheets. Table saws are not safe for this type of cut….....(although people keep doing it). There are quite a few cheap and accurate systems out there now for cutting sheets. A good straight edge, and the proper blade on a circular saw is much safer. I have a younger guy working for me now that always ripped sheets on the table saw, until he saw that I could make just as straight a cut as he could on the table saw…....and doing it much safer!

Here is the straight edge that I use.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=25384&Max=999


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

I used to own a RAS. I got rid of it. IMO, it offers very little additional capability over what you can do with a table saw and it was taking up too much space.

If I was choosing between a TS and a RAS, there is absolutely no question that I would choose a TS.

waho6o9's comment about a track saw (a.k.a. plunge saw) is noteworthy. I have one of those also. It is particularly good for working with sheet material and it can perform some (but not all) of the functions of a table saw. When considering typical table saw functions, I consider the plunge saw to be very weak at: (1) working with small items, (2) blade tilts and (3) dado cuts.


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## ShipWreck (Feb 16, 2008)

TABLE SAW: If you are going to buy a smaller table saw, there are 2 really nice choices out there right now.

The Bosch 4100 series
The Ridgid 4510 series

I have owned the Ridgid for quite a while now and it gets beat up pretty bad on the job sites. It keeps on chugging no matter what my hooligans on the job site do to it. The Bosch is very nice as well but it costs quite a bit more. Bosch makes great tools period.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

I to do a lot of sheet cutting and the table saw is not my first choice.
Because I don't want to dedicate the open space needed for sheet work on my TS, I usually break sheets down with my circular saw first. Then use the table saw for smaller pieces.
I have, up to now, done this in the garage floor, on top of a sheet of styrofoam, using a clamped straight edge to keep the cuts straight.
I am in the process of building me a sheet goods storage cart with a rack on the side which will work like a panel saw. This is a combination of several designs I have seen in magazines over the past few years. If it works as well as I hope it does I will post a project on here. I would like to have a real panel saw but they are way too expensive for my budget.

If a table saw has plenty of room and auxillary tables around it to support the sheets it will, of course cut big sheets, but I'd rather handle a 12 lb saw on a good guide than try to keep a 50lb sheet of plywood straight and tight against the fence.

A RAS can be used for ripping but it's difficult at best and normally limited to about 24 to 30 inches width; depends on the arm.


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

RAS was my "primary" for years ($$$ issue)...very versatile but also somewhat dangerous unless kept properly tuned (the versatility increases the "tuning" points)...and then you have the issue of much of the blade on the RAS being visible. So anyway, TS is now primary with 12" miter saw for cross cuts (not a fan of the TS for cross-cutting without a sled.). RAS is in storage at a friend's house but quite often I really wish it was here.

panels…I wish I had a vertical panel cutter but hard to justify. So I drag them to my table and knock them down with a circ saw (dimensions left proud), then finish cut on the table saw.

as long as we're on panels, encountered one of my gripes last week…I always mark 4 spots and draw the line using all 4. now with a 4' reach, a lot is "eyeball". Take to the TS to finish…short on one end…turns out there was a staple on one edge that caught the tape measure. not bad enough to set the intended piece aside and clip a new one from the other end but the uncut piece is also goofed up. great…so make sure to check for those staples (for what I pay the local yard they should do that).


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

A radial arm saw that is tuned up will do as good a job as many table saws. The thing about this is we spend hours tuning our table saws and we usually throw the radial arm on a rough riding trailer and haul it to a job and then complain about how it is not accurate. A good radial arm that is tuned like we tune our table saws will do almost everything the table saw can do. Some things it will do better. I like the idea of cutting dadoes where I can see the cut being made. A radial arm saw will do this. It will rip a sheet of plywood in half. It will not make a 47 inch cut like some tables saws. If you want accuracy from a table saw you need to tune it then make sleds and jigs. We expect the radial arm saw to do this out of the box and complain because it won't. A big sliding miter saw will do a lot of things but it won't cut a dado….at least mine doesn't. What can you buy cheapest. Usually a table saw because they are plentiful. People that have radial arm saws usually keep them because they like them. Radial arm saws in my part of the country retain their value better than table saws. My son bought a Sears Craftsman radial arm saw for $50 about a month ago. It was the cheapest he had seen for a circa 1978 model. When he went to pick it up the man said take this Circa 1955 Sears table saw too. I don't want it. He ended up with both for $50. Usually they ask $250 for the radial arm saw here. He bought the saw because it was cheap. He didn't need it. I have % table saws sitting in my shop right now Plus the one he just bought. They range from not so good to pretty good plus a ShopSmith. I cut everything on them. Sheets to small stock. You can do it if you build the jigs. If you want to rip on a radial arm saw you need to use caution. The head will turn both directions in many or most cases. Set up backwards it will pull the stock out of your hand if you are lucky and it will launch like a rocket. If you are not so lucky it will pull you into the saw. That and a bad arm is what makes the radial arm saw weak. I don't personally own a radial arm saw. I do know people that have them and use then for everything they do. I know a man that built a grandfather clock on with his radial arm saw. top to bottom - start to stop It all comes down to preference.


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## PaulMiller (Dec 11, 2008)

Ripping on a Radial Arm can be very dangerous; especially on short pieces. The blade is turning such that it tends to lift the material up off the table, where a Table Saw is pushing the material down on the table. I have both and only use the RAS for crosscutting long stock that would be clumsy on the Table Saw. If I had to choose between the two, it would be a Table Saw, and use a circular saw with a shop made squaring jig for crosscutting long boards. I usually break down sheet goods to rough dimension with a Circular Saw then true them up on the Table saw.

Paul


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## drfixit (Oct 16, 2009)

I have both, and the table saw is the work horse of my shop. The RAS gets used more as a bench than a saw.


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## ohtimberwolf (Dec 17, 2011)

All I had for years to remodel with was a RAS. Craftsman 10 inch I bought in 1988 (with the accessories that I don't think I have ever used). I still have it. I use my RAS very seldom now but as some have said if tuned up you can cut 4×8 sheets with a good table set up. I am fortunate as I have 8 feet on each end and I also can rip just a little off if I need to but short cuts such as 1 inch should be done with a guide and the circular saw unless you have help for that cut.

If I had to have just one of course it would be the table saw but it is really nice to have both and as stated above they can be bought very cheap. I receintly sold a nice Craftsman 12 inch with a stand and good blade for $125.00 Just MHO larry


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## nightowlll (Feb 22, 2012)

OMG!! You guys are the best!!! Thanks for all of the info. I guess it's a hand down TABLE SAW is the WINNER!!

So, now, the question is, what is the best table saw for around $500 to $600 that I might be able to find out there or used. I saw a Makita on CL the other day a guy was selling with one of those fold down stands but it looks like he sold it. It was model 2704. Has anyone heard of this one?

Also, I would prefer to have one that is more stable as I don't really work on a job site (other than my own garage) but storage is probably really easy with those fold down stands it's just that I am worried about the stability of the saw with one of those stands and I have never used one like that…..

Anyone have any final recommendations on specific models that are KNOWN to be GREAT SAWS that I might be able to find used, etc. ?

Thanks again to everyone for your comments and advice…..It is MUCH APPRECIATED!!


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## nightowlll (Feb 22, 2012)

ON A FINAL NOTE…..

I did want to say that,....besides the obvious, like wear marks, rust, cosmetic damage or any real gross signs of abuse,....I really don't know what to look for in a used table saw to see if it is a good condition saw or not…

Can anyone give me some advice on shopping for a used table saw. I feel like I would be prey just like a used car buyer might be prey to a new car buyer on a used car lot….so I'm really not sure what t look for to say whether a saw is in good condition. AGain, any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Take a look at the Ridgid contractor saw ,it has good reveiws and has a lot to offer for the money ,I think the sell for $549. I would stay away from the portable saws used on job sites their table top is to small and their fences are not that great.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=202500206&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=202500206&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googlebase-_-D25X-_-202500206


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## drfixit (Oct 16, 2009)

I agree with Jim.. go with a Ridgid. I bought mine back in 2000… still has the orginal belt! I have recently added an outfeed table to mine. My dad is not a wood worker and has saw how well mine is standing up to the years, he bought his self one. You can check mine out here http://lumberjocks.com/topics/34777


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## Martyroc (Feb 1, 2012)

Heres my 2 cents, I started woodworking with a radial arm saw and produced many fine projects. I used the RAM for maybe 5 or 6 years, then as I progressed I thought it was time for me to buy a new saw. I was torn since I spoke to several people all of which gave me equally good arguments for either type. Then one day while talking with the person who got me interested in woodworking who owned the RAM I had been using for years said, " I wish I had a good table saw", I asked what's the difference? He said for accuracy and ease of use the table saw was hands down the better machine. After a few months I convinced him to buy a table saw, he had wanted it for so many years and my argument was, are you going to wait until your too old to hold a piece of wood, before you get a TS? I used that argument with him for months until he broke down. I know had the best of both worlds, I didn't have to buy anything and he now had both. Fast forward a little less than a year later, I had been using both and started to gravitate more and more to the TS. When it was time for me to buy a saw I looked around his shop and saw in the last few months the RAM was now a storage bench loaded with [email protected], we both used it to put things out of the way, and I realized in 2 months neither of us had even touched it. My decision was madeTS all the way. I bought my Craftsman TS 25+ years ago and I am still using it 6 out of 7 days a week. Would I like a RAM? Yes but I know that's just a want it will never get the use my TS gets.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Get the table saw, RAS are lousy at ripping. I have both but just use the RAS for crosscuts. Ripping is way inconvenient on the RAS.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Unless you're seriously starved for space, or need to take the saw with you to different jobsites, I'd strongly suggest going with a full size stationary saw vs a portable. There's a pretty significant difference in operating space (especially in front of the blade), build quality, materials of construction (metal vs plastic), mass and stability, accessories and upgrades that can be added, reliability, cost and ease of repairs, noise, smoothness of operation, torque, resale, pleasure of use, etc…..all in favor of a full size cast iron (or granite) stationary saw with a belt drive induction motor. There's a lot more metal and mass in a full size saw vs a jobsite saw.

The front runners for new stationary saws < $600 are the Ridgid R4512, nearly identical Craftsman 21833, Porter Cable PCB270TS, and possibly the Steel City 35990CS on sale. The PCB270 has a plastic elevation gear that's pretty much a show stopper for me…the fact that the fence is unimpressive seals it's fate IMO. The R4512 and 21833 are decent basic saws with ok fences, steel wings, riving knives, belt drive motors, standard miter slots, etc…Ridgid offers a lifetime service agreement (not a lifetime warranty…read up on the fine print). The Steel City has cabinet mounted trunnions that make it easier to align. Any of them will cut well if setup properly and fitted with a good blade.

A good used saw is always a viable option if the right deal comes along.


















The pic below shows a typical bench top saw in use that's only slightly larger than just the wing portion of a full size saw…note the lack of space to work in front of the blade:









Here's a full size saw that's roughly 27" deep and 40" wide including the wings:


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

I agree with what has been said. A table saw is the workhorse of a shop. I have both the RAS and a table saw. Like some have said I use the RAS for cut offs…it works great for that. The TS does the rest of the work including rip cuts, panel cuts, dados, angle cuts, etc. Its much more versatile.

Check out Craig's List and Ebay for a good used TS. There are lots of options there and half the price of a new one.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

As usual Scott a very good explanation of the best available options out there.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

This looks like a pretty decent saw for the money. Click here=

Steveinmarin just reviewed it on LJ the video is here


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## kendunn (Jan 12, 2012)

Table saws are the heart of your woodworking shop plain and simple. A skilled woodworker can make a table saw do amazing things. I think if I were wanting to get by cheap and was doing 4×8 sheets I would go to a metal shop and have them brake me a straight edge out of thick aluminum about 9 feet long (and if its cheap enough have them cut you a 5' piece) and a couple of inches wide, get a couple of "C" clamps, make some nice sawhorses and put a really nice Freud blade in a good circular saw and take care of business. A poor mans panel saw. A table saw is the best for ripping planks for sure, and also for crosscutting shorter and medium length pieces, dado cuts, and a million other things. I had a decent RAS and gave it to my uncle and he never uses it either.


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## harry1 (Feb 22, 2012)

I managed without a table saw for around 30 years, using my DeWalt 740 10" RAS for everything including of course ripping and the only gripe I had when ripping was the mess that it made because in this mode it uses a climb cut. I've now had both for 12 years and if I had to choose one or the other, the RAS would be my choice. 8' x 4' panels are difficult for one person to handle on either saw, I personally cut a sheet into the required sizes with it supported on two saw horses and, using a self clamping straight edge and a hand held circular saw, cut the sheet into manageable pieces then, still using a straight edge, rout a perfect edge.


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## surfin2 (Oct 24, 2009)

A TS is more versatile than a RAS ????.

A TS blade is stationary & move in one direction not like a RAS…

To keep up with a RAS you have to build all kinds of {more space taken up} *JIGS …*

To replace a RAS with a Mter saw, you didn't have a need for it the first place…

Dangerous, what power tool isn't, if not used properly…

I've used a RAS for yrs. still have all my fingers plus never One problem…

Is the Radial Arm Saw on its Last Legs?>

Do you buy a cheap (quality) TS why buy a cheap RAS…


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

I grew up thinking that my grandpa's radial arm saw was the ultimate in woodworking. So when I got a shop, I bought a RAS before I even bought a table saw. But now that I have been at it a while, I find that I use the table saw VASTLY more than the RAS. A good, well tuned radial arm saw will do loads of things. The problem usually is in keeping the tuned. And they have never been great at ripping wide stock.

I say you should invest in as nice a table saw as you can afford, even if it's a used Rockwell or Delta that you restore and add a good aftermarket fence. The, watch craigslist for an older (pre-1970's) Dewalt RAS. Those are the good ones, and they can be had for very cheap. That way you can have the best of both worlds like I do!

-Jim; aka "Stumpy Nubs" 
Host of Blue Collar Woodworking with Stumpy Nubs


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## Quanter50 (Feb 11, 2012)

Back in the late sixties I watched Dad rip across his thumb and forefinger with the 1959 Craftsman Radial Arm Saw. Ever since then I have been afraid to use it. I helped Dad rip thousands of board feet of pine to make silk screen frames for his buddy. Now I rip long oak boards with a straight edge and dad's old PC 146a, and do everything else on my table saw. I still have that old Craftsman RAS and am debating whether to get rid of it or not.


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## Danpaddles (Jan 26, 2012)

Quanter, sounds like that old saw might have some value to keep around as a reminder!

Harry1- is your kickback pawl backwards, or am I missing something? I have not yet tried to rip on my (new to me) Dewalt RAS. So I am not sure!


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## surfin2 (Oct 24, 2009)

Is the Radial Saw on its Last Legs?
*POST 7*


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## surfin2 (Oct 24, 2009)

I have no idea why this isn't working right (POST 27)

I did the same thing the second time & it's working alright, not for post 27…


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## dnick (Nov 17, 2011)

I have a radial arm, & a table saw, but if you're only going to have one saw, it has to be a table saw.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

Dan, I was wondering about those pawls myself, but since no one else mentioned them I thought I must not be seeing what I thought I was.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I also have both, and my first stationary tool was an RAS. I love the RAS. Even so, I see the TS as being the better tool between them. Both can do some things better than the other but for most woodworking, the TS is just a little easier to use.


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## nightowlll (Feb 22, 2012)

You guys are awesome!! I don't think I have received so much good information from a forum before.

I have made up my mind and I have decided to stick with the TS as most have recommended.

Now, here's another question. I came across a guy selling a JET table saw model number JWTS10CW2LFR

He said he paid $1299 or something like that for it and is asking $650 for it.

I am thinking about buying it buy I don't know anything about this "JET" brand.

Can someone please tell me if they are familiar with this saw and if this is a good deal?

He said it is new in the box and that he has extentension rails and an "exacta fence" that was optional that will come with it.

Please let me know ASAP. He says he might sell it to someone else tomorrow and I only have one day to decide on this saw. I'd hate to let a great deal pass me by especially when I AM in the market for a Table Saw.


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## nightowlll (Feb 22, 2012)

Also, what is a HYBRID TS?


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

The choices and the names keep changing, but right now you have:
1. Bench top saws. Usually plastic housings, aluminum or stamped steel tables, direct drive motor.
2. Job site/portable saws. Better quality fence, aluminum table with portable stand and/or wheels.
3. Contractor's saw. Cast iron table, rear mounted belt drive, removable wings and motor, to reduce weight. 
4. Hybrid saw. Cross of contractor and cabinet saw. Cast iron table, belt drive internal mounted <2hp motor. Usually has table mounted trunion which is difficult to align, and is lighter than 400lbs, often on wheels.
5. Cabinet saw. Full cast iron table, cabinet to floor, 3 hp and up, 240volt motor, professional fence. Usually has cabinet mounted trunion, and is usually over 500 lbs. Not normally on wheels.

Of course there are some saws that crossover these definitions and even other designs like sliders and saws wth granite tops.


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## nightowlll (Feb 22, 2012)

OK YOU GUYS!!! HERE'S WHAT I DID….!!!

I was really leaning toward the JET table saw but I have been wanting a Planer and another guy had a BRAND SPANKING NEW RIGID 13" PLANER in the box with the stationary stand and an extra set of knife blades! So, I picked up the Planer for $275. ITS A MONSTER!! And everything was still sealed in the box. Come to find out, RIGID offers a LIFETIME WARRANTY on their stuff so I am happy about that…..

THEN,...I found another guy who just happened to have a SEARS CRAFTSMAN 10" RAS,..and guess what?? AGAIN!! BRAND SPANKING NEW!!! It has some rust on the bolts from just sitting in the garage but it still had the original saw blade that came with it when he bought it like 10 years ago!!! I paid $125 for the RAS!!! So, I know I might not have gotten the best deal but considering the RIGID PLANER NEW with the extras would be $500+ Tax and the RAS I saw on the Craftsman website was $799.00 that's $1300 worth of stuff I picked up for $400!!!!

I'm really happy with what I have so far but am strapped and out of cash right now so it looks like no TS at this time but at least I have gotten what I really wanted and hopefully will find a good deal on a good quality TS in the future!!

I'll be posting pictures of my recent additions to my shop as soon as I get a chance but right now I'm headed to the local LOWE'S to pick up some material and I'm gonna get busy!!!

THANKS FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP AND ADVICE!! I WILL BE BACK WITH MORE QUESTIONS FOR SURE!!

THIS IS THE BEST WOODWORKING FORUM I HAVE BEEN TO EVER!!!'

YOU GUYS ROCK!!!!


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## kenthemadcarpenter (Jun 24, 2015)

I have both, and they both get used equally, each has their own applications. if you can get the accessories for the ras
the ras can do a lot, how ever most ras being sold on craiglist are just the bare knuckle and won't these. although you can rip with ras. when it come to it. I would rather rip on my table saw. I would recommend finding a belt driven table saw, later on you can build a cross cut sled for it.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

The warranty for most stuff typically only apply to the original purchaser. There are a few exceptions (mechanics tools, for example) and you may be good to go if you got the original receipt with that planer. But you may want to check the conditions of the warranty.


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## bobbg (May 24, 2017)

4×8' sheets hands limited space, hands down home made track saw.
I've got 2 ras's and 3 table saws. buy a skill type saw and make a home made track saw system for it.
Nothing fancy just some 1/4" luan 1 narrow prt and one wider then your saw. put the narrow on in the center
glue it on then cut both sides of the center with both sides of your saw, you'll use the cent to guid the saw and keep your offset. this will not take up much space at all. then you can lay out sawhorses and cut away.

You can go to most lumber yards with a panel saw and have them cut you a 2" wide and 5" wide pec off a sheet.
But after your first cut to trim off the extra stock its only good on the saw you made it for .
Plenty of posts on youtube how to make one.

By the way the Jet is a nice saw I've got one, only I do not have the long rails on mine. 650 was a great price
but the saw drops a ton of sawdust on the floor.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Of the 2 a TS is the winner simply based on it can do a lot more work accurately.

That said if you plan to cut a lot of plywood, and have an area to work around a 4×8' sheet, then the lowest cost to get in, and make dead accurate cuts is with a circular saw, and a well made cutting jig. Fact is lifting up full sheets to cut down on a TS is part skill, part hard work, all PIA.

The video below will show you a very good way to solve your problem in the $100 to $150.00 range.

Right here, free to watch.


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## Gentile (Jun 3, 2013)

I'd get the table saw first. Later a RAS. I see RAS on the craigslist for $100 a lot. Get a RAS later


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## ohtimberwolf (Dec 17, 2011)

Wow, this iis an old post. 02/22/2012


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