# What made you choose you're bench vs others?



## Murdoch (Jan 8, 2022)

I'm new to hand tool work and recently moved to a home with a smaller shop in it - 16'x10'.

So now I'm fighting which bench design do I think I'll want and after reading and reviewing countless articles, blogs, and videos I've realized many people don't say why they chose one form over another. My big projects will be jewelry boxes, picture frames, coasters/cutting boards, maybe some ring boxes.

I think I'll like the Nicholson / Moravian designs and maybe add a moxon vise for detailed work.

Out of curiosity though what made you choose your design?


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

For the projects you mentioned, you can get by with a 2'×4' work bench. I don't do a lot of traditional hand tool work. My main work bench is 4'×4' with three cabinet vises. Which doubles as a extension table to the table saw. I like the extra room on the 4'×4' work bench to stretch out the work pieces. Or spread out pieces for multiple projects. I currently have three different small projects, spread out on this work bench.

You may need to consider the space needed for the bar clamps, while doing glue-ups for the cutting boards. My assembly and glue-up bench is 2'x8'. The bench I use for staining and finishing is 3'x5'. A small HomeRight Spray Shelter sits nicely on it, when I use the shelter. Both these two benches are in a different room than my main workshop.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

I have a first generation Lie Neilson bench top. I made a beefier base then they offered.
I chose their bench after saw one at a woodworking show. At the time i didn't want to make a top and their design was good.
Still glad to have it.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

I have made for myself a (solid wood) Paul Sellers workbench:
https://paulsellers.com/paul-sellers-workbench-plans/

- It is not difficult to make;
- it can be knocked down if necessary (I made it in my backyard before bringing it in my attic workspace and assembling it again);
- it is easily scalable (height, length, width);
- it can be enhanced with drawer, shelf, second deeper tool-well,...
- it is very stable and as it relies on wedges, it will remain stable even if the legs shrink a bit (I am not sure how the Nicholson of Chris Schwarz would do if the legs shrink);
- I made it with recycled pine.
- I used the height recommended by Paul Sellers. I am happy. If needed, the legs could be shortened.
Then as I follow the projects of Paul Sellers (see https://paulsellers.com/other-websites/), it is easy to work the same way has he demonstrates. (He is working most of the time in a quick release vise).
I am perfectly happy with this workbench.

I have also used it to make a Moravian workbench (https://eclecticmechanicals.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/themoravianworkbenchbywillmyers.pdf )for the son because:
- I was not sure he had space for a permanent workbench. The Moravian can be assembled/knocked down in less than 1 minute. See 



- it takes a minimum amount of floor space when knocked down (2' X 3' max?);
- it is very stable; the components are nevertheless easily portable by one men;
- the son could work outside, weather permitting;
- the son could move it easily in any room for house work;
- the son could use it as a "buffet" table when doing a garden party;
- I had boards from an old picnic bench available for upcycling.
- I have adapted the dimensions to the material available.
- I used the height recommended by Paul Sellers. If needed, the legs could be shortened.
Finally it is not more difficult to do than the Paul Sellers one even if, at first, the angled mortises look intimidating .
Although, to keep the portability, one should use the leg vise and not install a quick release vise on it (too much weight). I have not worked with it but the son is very happy to have it.
Many LJ have build one.

some reflection about mass:
https://dblaney.wordpress.com/tag/moravian-bench/
Don't miss the two last sentences ;-)

About height: there is a study which shows that the height which minimise pain in various parts of the body (back, neck, shoulder, elbow, wrist, ...) is about 15 cm below elbow height (with your shoes on). For me it correspond to Paul Sellers recommendation. 
If one find it too high for some tasks, one could always put a duck board on the floor.
Look for: The ergonomics and design of an inclusive best-fit solution to workbenches
by William F. Gaughran
Brunel university 2004
The second part is about able bodied persons.

My only regret: having procrastinated too long.


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## KelleyCrafts (May 17, 2016)

Sylvain pretty much hit it on the head.

I have a roubo, solid hard wood, amazing bench etc. you can see it in my projects. However, I didn't start with this bench. I started with the Paul sellers bench and used it for many years. And I think you should start there. It's not insane expensive to make and you will learn what you need/don't need, want/don't want and what works for you.

The height of my last bench sucked. I have some lower back issues so I need a bench that's a little higher. I didn't know that until I worked on my Paul sellers bench. Vises, what do I wish I had that I didn't already have…incorporate those in the final shot. You find you hate hand tool work, change the design all together.

Loads of questions there's no way you have the answers to right now. Paul sellers workbench is a serious perfect starter bench. Moravian might work too for you just think it through.

Just my .02.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

I am a Moravian bench fan here. Built it out of mostly Southern Yellow Pine with some red oak for the small side stretchers. White Oak for the leg vise and maple screw from lake Erie tool works. I also bought the wagon vise form Will Myers and highly recommend it. I like that I can break it down by myself if I ever need to move it. It is very stable and solid for hand tool work. I ended up making it just shy of my table saw height (SawStop jobsite) to double as outfeed table and not obstruct table saw work. It feels like a good height to me. I have the exact same size shop as you and often need to slide it a bit to make the most of my small space. Any bigger or heavier and it would be a problem. It was my first big non-plywood project and was a really fun build. Tip, get 2×10 or 2×12 to make the laminated top by ripping out the center portion of each. You are never going to get all the boards dead even in the to so don't stress over it. Get a good edge on a hand plane and go at it to flatten it. I also had the "I need a bench to build a bench" issue so I made the top first and placed if on saw horses to work off of. Good luck and have fun.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

In the early 90's I purchased a video on "Make a Dovetail Drawer" by Frank Klausz. It was the first time I ever saw a Scandinavian cabinetmakers bench, and I knew eventually I would make my own.

That didn't happen until nearly 25 years later. After using the bench for 6 years, I'll give you my thoughts. Overall, I am very happy with the size and utility of the bench.

The tail vise has become a little loose, mainly b/c I believe the build rails have shrunk a bit. Easy fix, just not enough of an issue to bother with it. Had to do over, I would bite the bullet and go with the quick release hardware.

Shoulder vise. This is the one aspect of the bench I'm a little hesitant to recommend, only b/c it does take up some room, and for some people, the vise jutting out might be an issue. Again, had to do over, I would use a twin screw or a built in Moxon.

The Scand bench has served me well for both hand and power too work.


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## Kudzupatch (Feb 3, 2015)

I simply looked at what I do and what I wanted to do. Then I decided how I wanted the bench to hold the wood.

For me that was end vice with dog holes for planing the face of the board. 
A vice for holding board so I could work on the end. 
A sliding dead man to go with the vice so I could hold the board edge up and work the edges.
Dog holes for clamping to the table.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

> I also had the "I need a bench to build a bench" issue so I made the top first and placed if on saw horses to work off of. Good luck and have fun.
> 
> - controlfreak


I used a workmate to make my first workbench-top, then pinched it on the workmate to make the other components.
It is a good recommendation to start with the bench-top.

Trestles without using a workbench to start:


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I decided on a Roubo, after many years working on a flimsy bench that would walk across the shop when hand planing. I wanted a beefy and stable bench. I don't regret my decision. I was a little bit apprehensive about the wagon vise instead of an end vise. That turned out well also, I don't miss the end vise.


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## Tony1212 (Aug 26, 2013)

My bench isn't a traditional bench. I did a lot of research and came up with a mish-mash of requirements that I wanted in *my* bench.

- As inexpensive as possible
- No fancy dovetail joinery, because I didn't think I was capable of doing it very well that at the time
- Drawbored mortise and tenon joints for the base (I was using old 4×4s for the legs, so they probably wouldn't shrink too much, but the drawbore made the joints tight and kept them tight for 7 or 8 years by now)
- The legs had to be co-planar with the front of the bench so I could use the legs and other cross members for clamping large boards
- The top was 4 layers of a 3/4" plywood with a sacrificial 1/4" plywood top. Thick enough to use traditional holdfasts
- A front vice with dog holes in the chop
- An end vice with dog holes in the chop
- A grid of dog holes that span the length and width of the bench to allow the vices to be used for clamping
- It had to be at a height that was comfortable to me to use both hand tools and power tools (It's slightly too high to do a lot of hand plane work, but I can throw a 2×10 on the ground and stand on that if I have a lot of hand plane work to do)
- No tool wells, because I know me, and it would just get filled up with junk (in fact, my bench top is usually full of stuff but I have to clean it off to use it)
- Two shelves to hold jigs and sharpening equipment
- Approximately 2ft wide because I just cut the plywood in half then added hardwood to cover the plies. 
- 6 feet long, and I've never wished for anything longer.

After 7 or 8 years, I'm still very happy with it and have no desire to build a new one. It's sturdy as hell

The end vice is pretty much unused nowadays, due to shop overcrowding. In fact, I'm most frustrated by my lack of space to use the bench in all the ways that I had envisioned using it.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I am in almost done building my adaptation of Chris Schwartz's Anarchist Workbench which is his adaptation of a Roubo. I went back and forth between it and the Moravian design but ultimately settled on the Anarchist approach because of the Hovarter quick release vise hardware that I chose. I didn't think that it would work well with the Moravian design.

BTW, If you go to Chris Schwartz's web page for the Anarchist Workbench, he offers his ebook "The Anarchist Workbench" for free. In it he reviews most of the common workbench designs which might help you make up your mind.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Bench? My "bench" is my saw top. Flat, stable, solid as a rock.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

Lots of good stuff here, makes me want to go out to the shop and start customizing my bench. Right now I am using the stretchers as my clamp rack.


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## Bearcontrare (Oct 6, 2020)

First, You will probably build more than one workbench in your lifetime, for various reasons, moving being among them.
Second, You will not know which workbench features you do and do not like, until you have used a workbench for awhile. When you've got the features you like down, you can build your next bench.
For these reasons, I suggest building your first workbench from whatever material is handy adapted from a design you think you will like. I say adapted, because you can make variations based on your own meeds and wants. And, yes, building the top on sawhorses, and working from there is an excellent method to follow. You can use the top to work on while building the other components.
Whatever you do, make your workbench AT LEAST 36 inches high. 36-38 inches is a good height for most woodworkers. Trust me, your back will THANK you for it. Forger the Knuckle Nonsense. Your kitchen counters are made at 36 inches because that height was determined to be the best ergonomically for the average height person.
You can watch Paul Sellers pull a plane across a board with a string and produce shavings, if you don't believe it. You just need to keep your tools sharp, which you should do, anyway….


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> I am in almost done building my adaptation of Chris Schwartz s Anarchist Workbench which is his adaptation of a Roubo. I went back and forth between it and the Moravian design but ultimately settled on the Anarchist approach because of the Hovarter quick release vise hardware that I chose. I didn t think that it would work well with the Moravian design.
> 
> BTW, If you go to Chris Schwartz s web page for the Anarchist Workbench, he offers his ebook "The Anarchist Workbench" for free. In it he reviews most of the common workbench designs which might help you make up your mind.
> 
> - Lazyman


Good recommendation here. I overanalyzed the same thing for a couple of years and eventually went with Richard Maguire's english joiner bench. This was before Schwarz finished the Anarchist bench book. chris Schwarz has made several of every bench imaginable, even ones you've never heard of. So he has taken the good arts of each style and combined them into one. Kind of doing all the work for you.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

> because of the Hovarter quick release vise hardware that I chose. I didn't think that it would work well with the Moravian design.
> - Lazyman


I wander why it would not work well? as the Hovarter mechanism is a replacement for a leg-vise screw.
For quick leg vise action, there is also a double entry thread screw:
https://eclecticmechanicals.com/2018/11/11/its-a-big-one-part-2/
It can also accept a criss-cross:
https://eclecticmechanicals.com/2019/06/25/moravian-workbench-crisscross-install/


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## Murdoch (Jan 8, 2022)

> Whatever you do, make your workbench AT LEAST 36 inches high. 36-38 inches is a good height for most woodworkers. Trust me, your back will THANK you for it. Forger the Knuckle Nonsense. Your kitchen counters are made at 36 inches because that height was determined to be the best ergonomically for the average height person.
> 
> - Bearcontrare


This is great to here because I was thinking that was insane information, at 6'3" my back aches even after washing a few loads of dishes after a family dinner. I was thinking 38" was going to be a minimum for myself and it's good to hear it reinforced.


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## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

Mine was pretty much the first thing I'd ever built, so was made as simply as possible to fit in the available space.

It's 3 foot long by 20" wide and made out of big box store construction lumber joined with through tenons.

It won't win any awards and I'd definitely do some things a bit different if I built it now , but it still works well enough that I haven't started planning the next one 

Started off building the frame on a workmate, then the top on the frame.


















It's had a few bits added to it over the years, but it's still solid.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> Bench? My "bench" is my saw top. Flat, stable, solid as a rock.
> 
> - Madmark2


Thats about the worst hand tool bench you can find.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

> because of the Hovarter quick release vise hardware that I chose. I didn t think that it would work well with the Moravian design.
> - Lazyman
> 
> I wander why it would not work well? as the Hovarter mechanism is a replacement for a leg-vise screw.
> ...


Thanks for the post Sylvain, I may look into this. I am not a big fan of moving the pin each time the thickness changes.


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## YouthfullMind (Dec 26, 2017)

I settled on a split top roubo. It has a leg vise, end vise, and bench dogs. I honestly wouldn't change a thing about it. I wasn't sure if I should do a solid top or a split top, but I'm glad I decided on the split. The split top makes clamping a whole lot easier in many situations.

I do a combo of power tool and hand tool work. If you plan on doing any amount of hand tool work a heavy bench makes life much easier.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*SMP:* Hand tools? If it ain't got a cord or a battery I ain't using it! I have a 6" block plane I use to chamfer doors and a set of chisels I use to mortise the occasional hinge (and hardly then 'cause of Blum euro hinges.)

I'm too old to have the time to do ww'ing by hand! LOL


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> *SMP:*
> I m too old to have the time to do ww ing by hand! LOL
> 
> - Madmark2


Sometimes it can be faster. Especially a one man shop making one of something.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

I was composing a reply in my head as I was reading through responses, then hit Bearcontrare's and he said pretty much what I was going to.

Decide what you think you'll like and build the first bench-it may or may not be your last. Use inexpensive and easy to source lumber. As long as it is solid, it'll be a workbench you can use. That's what I did on my first bench. 
It was based on a Holtzapffel because it's easy to build, rock solid and I don't like leg vises which are a feature of most Roubos.



After you use the bench for a while, you will find things you do and don't like. At that point, you can either modify your bench or build a new one. I opted for a new one because I always wanted a slab top.



There's really no wrong answer as long as it works for you. One point others have made that I will stress again-build the bench taller than you think-if it's too tall, you can always cut down the legs a bit. I'm 5'10" and a 38in height is just right. My first was just under 36 and too short, I have no idea how people use a 34in tall bench.


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## Bearcontrare (Oct 6, 2020)

At 6' 3", a height of 38-40 inches would certainly be appropriate.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

> because of the Hovarter quick release vise hardware that I chose. I didn t think that it would work well with the Moravian design.
> - Lazyman
> 
> *I wander why it would not work well? *as the Hovarter mechanism is a replacement for a leg-vise screw.
> ...


It was mostly the wagon vise and the Hovarter x-link that I was worried about. I would have needed the Benchcrafted short crisscross to make that work well or tried to make an angled leg vise. Not sure how well the x-link would work if angled? The Hovarter wagon vise needs 16-18" beyond the leg. When I drew this up in Sketchup it started looking pretty awkward and I worried that much sticking out beyond the leg might cause it to pivot if I set something heavy on it. Screwing it to the base instead of just using the alignment pins might prevent that but it just didn't look right. Plus I wanted to also be able to use the wagon vise chop to clamp pieces vertically and the angled leg there would severely limit using it like that. Maybe my second bench will be a Moravian.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

COST! I can't see spending hundreds of dollars for a Scandanavian style bench that will get beat up over time. My bench (one of several I have built) was made from lumber yard construction lumber, cheap and sturdy with a hardboard top surface. They last for many years. My current bench is 72" x 30" and is in its 20th year. All I need to do is replace the hardboard top. I can bang on it, drill holes in it and not have to worry about damaging a several hundred-dollar bench.
One thing that is important is weight. When you are planning wood, you don't need the bench to be moving. Another factor is: height. I am 87, so I sit a lot at my bench. I need to be at a comfortable height to work at and still be able to stand when necessary. Naturally the type of projects you will be working on will dictate bench characteristics. Every bench has to be tailor made for its user. The first bench you make won't be you last.


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## Chenier (Mar 15, 2019)

My workbench came with the house when I bought it. Didn't put any thought into bench design at the time. 20 years on I'm still using it. The bench is about 2 feet x 6 feet, with a 2" thick top. It has some kind of quick-release vise on the left end of the front face. The left end itself has a 6" long piece of steel screwed in that sticks up about 1/4-inch above the bench top. Works like a champ as a planing stop.

Drawers are right underneath the top, set back about 3 inches. Storage - yay! But their position means no dog holes. However there's no apron under the top so I can use clamps (bar, C, F or quick) to hold workpieces near front edge.

Ideal? Probably not. But useful enough that I haven't been motivated to make a different one.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

If one thinks a fancy bench is necessary to be productive, look at the numerous projects of Bandit571:
https://www.lumberjocks.com/bandit571/projects

his one-afternoon-workbench:
https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/89659
look at his blogs to see it in use.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

> At 6 3", a height of 38-40 inches would certainly be appropriate.
> - Bearcontrare


38" is a good height for somebody around 5'10".
As said before, about 15 cm (~6") under the elbow height (with shoes on) seems to minimise pain in various parts of the body.
A lower bench would not suit the intended use:


> My big projects will be jewelry boxes, picture frames, coasters/cutting boards, maybe some ring boxes.
> - Thomas C.


With the recommended height, I don't need a Moxon vise.
Choose a design where one can shorten the legs if not sure.
Or use a duck board when needed.

Although it is suitable for bigger projects.
Paul Sellers is doing furniture for a whole house.


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## BlueRidgeDog (Jan 2, 2019)

Get the book:

https://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Revised-Design-Theory-Construction/dp/1440343128

A bench is a work holding device and little more. It is heavy so it will not move when struck. It has features to hold work and there are various styles of those features. None are perfect and most have cultural roots. Some dog holes and a vise and you can make anything. Paul makes great stuff on a simple bench. Some makers have fancy benches that they paid a lot for.

For me, having a simple bench is ideal vs an amazing bench that is only on paper or in my head.

The only real choice I think is traditional vs modern. Traditional uses about 3/4" dog holds for holdfasts. Modern uses 20mm spaced holes for the Parf or Festool "system". If you are into the modern ecosystem of tools, then you want a bench designed for them. I have a traditional bench, but will make my next assembly table along the modern line for work holding during assembly.

Good luck and make a bench.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> Whatever you do, make your workbench AT LEAST 36 inches high. 36-38 inches is a good height for most woodworkers. Trust me, your back will THANK you for it. Forger the Knuckle Nonsense. Your kitchen counters are made at 36 inches because that height was determined to be the best ergonomically for the average height person.
> 
> - Bearcontrare
> 
> ...


One good rule of thumb is stand with your hand flexed to the palm is parallel to the floor. This is the approximate ideal height, give or take an inch.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> COST! I can t see spending hundreds of dollars for a Scandanavian style bench that will get beat up over time. My bench (one of several I have built) was made from lumber yard construction lumber, cheap and sturdy with a hardboard top surface. They last for many years. My current bench is 72" x 30" and is in its 20th year. All I need to do is replace the hardboard top. I can bang on it, drill holes in it and not have to worry about damaging a several hundred-dollar bench.
> - MrRon


For some of us, its a personal choice to work on a bench with a high degree of craftsmanship. Kind of sets the tone mentally for the work.

And, some of us have a mindset that is different in our approach to shop furniture. Yes, my bench is now well seasoned and somewhat "beat up" - that's character.

It doesn't have to be construction lumber. You can build a nice bench economically if you can mill your own lumber and have access to a sawmill.

I have less than $400 in my bench. I bought a 5" thick x 20" x 20 foot maple slab off of a guy at a sawmill for $200 and that included him ripping it into 5" wide strips.


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## BlasterStumps (Mar 13, 2017)

"what made you choose your design?"

Trial and error.

First one was made too tall, was rickety and much too heavy. Used it for a while but soon moved on to another style.

Second bench was a big mistake. I tried to build a copy of a bench that can be seen on page 104 of The Workbench Book by Scott Landis. Huge mistake for me to tackle that bench. When it was finished, it was worse than the first bench I built. Too heavy, poor stability. Simply learned to hate it. Ripped it apart.

My current bench has a 17" deep top with a tool well on the back. It has splayed legs in back and front legs flush with the edge of the top. Not too bad for stability, heavy for sure but I can still move it around. Works much better than my previous mess up benches.

If I make another bench, it will be an improved version of the one I am using now with the splayed legs.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

It was affordable.

I had the plans.

It fit the bill.

It had reasonable work holding capability.

Did I mention it was affordable?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

I had a slab and wanted to make something out of it.

Realized I needed a workbench (thank you, Chris Schwarz).

A Roubo was the result.


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## BlasterStumps (Mar 13, 2017)

Just love that picture Smitty! Very cool.


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## Foghorn (Jan 30, 2020)

LeeValley used to carry 3" thick by 24" x 60" maple slabs. I got the last one from my closest store as they were being discontinued. It had a tiny ding on one corner so it was discounted to $150. Added legs and vises. I had planned to build my own but this made sense at the time. The multiple dog holes work well combined with the Veritas bench pups when working with the odd shapes I'm usually working with.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

why a low workbench is not needed:





as long as your iron is sharp.


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## Bearcontrare (Oct 6, 2020)

The last workbench that I built (#4) is an adaptation of the Roy Underhill folding bench, which Roy adapted from Bernard Jones' plans. I built it in "temporary" housing (where we wound up living for 2 1/2 years….) knowing that we would be moving to our "forever" home (i.e, until we die) and it would need to be moved. I wasn't gonna build bench #5 or 6. So, it was built with hinged legs which fold flat and are held by a pair of cross braces forming the "might triangle" on each end for strength. There is a detachable leg vise on the front left leg and an end vise on the right end, which jaw can be removed. It was one of the easiest pieces in the house to move. I can handle it reasonably well alone at age 61. There are holdfasts and bench dogs for the top. It was built primarily for hand woodworking.
Turned out to be damned good thing that I do so much work be hand. The power company here in Hagerstown, Maryland absolutely RAPES it's customers, especially in the Winter. For the record, I have NOT used any power tools since we've been here, and the bill was still SKY high. Looks like I'll become even MORE of a tool galoot, because it's almost coming to choice of either having food on the table OR paying Potomac Edison.


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## ManySplinters (Sep 28, 2021)

Built mine out of laminating 2×6's to give me a Roubo style bench but with angled legs like a Nicholson bench has. Added a angled homemade leg vise using a Yost screw off Amazon. Legs are roughly bigger than 5×5", top is roughly 5×22x72".

Why? I'm a big guy and didn't want a wiggly bench. This bench doesn't wiggle…

Believe I spent more in glue and clamps than I did in lumber. Learned much, won't be doing it again for a long time though.


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## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

This is my workbench for working with hand tools, which in my case is wood carving. It has no name. Yes, it is our dining room table - 55" square, solid hardwood. My wife prefers that I do my woodcarving in the house, and she even asks that I leave the shavings on the table & floor to show our guests that she's proud of my carvings.


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## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

I have been reading through the Work Bench Smackdown. About half way through now, but there was a some good information in there.

My current bench is only a solid base with a piece of 3/4" plywood and a 1/4" hardboard. At some point I am going to Mill up a top to hold the vise's. Currently looking at building a small bench top bench with a Moxon vise.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> This is my workbench for working with hand tools, which in my case is wood carving. It has no name. Yes, it is our dining room table - 55" square, solid hardwood. My wife prefers that I do my woodcarving in the house, and she even asks that I leave the shavings on the table & floor to show our guests that she s proud of my carvings.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I take back what I said madmark about a table saw being the worst hand tool bench. This dining table is probably worse than a table saw for hand tool work.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

> This is my workbench for working with hand tools, which in my case is wood carving. It has no name. Yes, it is our dining room table - 55" square, solid hardwood. My wife prefers that I do my woodcarving in the house, and she even asks that I leave the shavings on the table & floor to show our guests that she is proud of my carvings.
> 
> - Phil32


Good wife.
And at least you probably didn't procrastinate a few years before deciding what would be the best workbench.

Isn't it a bit low? But, maybe you sit on a stool while carving.

Something like this would allow you to change the board orientation more easily.

Now, if your wife needs an idea for your anniversary…


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

> This is my workbench for working with hand tools, which in my case is wood carving. It has no name. Yes, it is our dining room table - 55" square, solid hardwood. My wife prefers that I do my woodcarving in the house, and she even asks that I leave the shavings on the table & floor to show our guests that she s proud of my carvings.
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> ...


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## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

The clamp secures the work to the table rails and allows the table to be used for entertaining.


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