# What should i put on some Teak deck furniture i made so it keeps it's color?



## mudbone (Aug 18, 2009)

woodworkers please listen up; please, i just made some Teak outdoor deck furniture. What are some of the ways i can keep them looking new, not silver gray? Please give any help that U have.Thanks Rich


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

This will be a constant battle. Exposure to the elements will naturally weather wood to a grey color. Trying to keep the natural color of the wood will mean continually refinishing the furniture. I have used spar varnish/urethane with success on exterior projects- doors, tables- but these generally have had some protection from uv rays and do not get a lot of rain exposure.

Like wooden decks, outdoor furniture will need to be re-treated once or twice a year to maintain the "new" wood look.


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## jackass (Mar 26, 2008)

*I had the same problem, I used an outdoor urethane, in high gloss, should have used flat or low gloss, more in keeping with teak. My deck is covered, with little sun, it has lasted well. The factory finish put on last year was no good, almost came off on your clothes. Urethane for me is the best option. I didn't build these chairs, as you have by now gathered.
Jack*


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Teak oil


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## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

After it eventually turns gray you will need to strip it and then wash it with a solution of oxalic acid. This will remove most of the gray. Then you can put fresh coats of oil. It is common in the boat world.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

Sikkens Cetol 1, but it will impart its own color too.


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## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

I use TWP500 for teak in the Southwest. You might want to use TWP100 for your area. It is the best product I have used for outdoor Furniture/Decking.


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## Pete_Jud (Feb 15, 2008)

I agree with Jim. I have been boating, and dealing with teak on sailboats here in the PNW for over 40 years. I have over a ton of teak in the interior of my boat, and teak decks, cabin top, as well as the cap rails, and the cockpit. I have tried a lot of stuff over the years. Avoid Cetol, it makes it way to orange in color. I have used several brands of high end varnish, and they last only a couple of years. Oxalic acid is used only for removing the black spots caused by mold that will form on bare teak, or under the finish if water is allowed to get through.

The best I have found that holds up here is Daly Seafin Teak oil. It used to be cheap, but has gone up to a little over 45 bucks a gallon. http://www.dalyspaint.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=16 It has worked well for me since I started using it in the 1980's. And I use it in the shop on maple and alder as well. It is a wipe on, wipe off tung oil and poly finish, and 6-7 coats are best. With very little sanding between the last couple of coats. A gallon goes a heck of a long ways, and for a couple of chairs I might start with a qt. It will require a little touch up every couple of years, and if you start seeing black spots, just sand that area, then hit the rest with 320 and recoat the whole thing.

Good luck, And since I run a fair amount of teak in the shop, hope you have a good place to take your knifes, blades, and bits, to be made sharp again.


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## Pete_Jud (Feb 15, 2008)

Sorry got the wrong link, http://www.dalyspaint.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=16 is the right one.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

I've been using Penofin Hardwood Exterior Formula on my outdoor ipé furniture for over 10 years. I think it is great. I am sure it will work equally well on teak.

http://www.penofin.com/products_exotichardwood.shtml


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## jackass (Mar 26, 2008)

*Hi a1Jim,
Teak oil didn't work for me. More than 1 application and it still came off, when it felt like it.
Jack*


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

Note: The term "teak oil" is generic. No two brands are alike, nor are there any regulations on its ingredients.
Consumer-grade teak oil products that you find in big box stores can be very insipid and are mostly solvent. High quality teak oil formulations, like Daly's are in a completely different class. It's like comparing Twinkies to fine French pastries.


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## mudbone (Aug 18, 2009)

*Thanks to all for the help on my outdoor teak projects. I think i will give SeaFin Teak Oil a shot. thanks again to all. 
KEEP MAKIN WOOD CHIPS !!! *


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## DanLyke (Feb 8, 2007)

Another advocate of regular re-oiling here. I use Penofin after getting turned on to it by a wooden boat fanatic, it's doing great for my outdoor woodworking stuff. Just keep applying it, I'm told that in a few years you can stop, but it makes things look so great I don't know why I'd want to skip the annual ritual.


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

Teak oil. I have a teak table that sits 8 outdoors. Another 4 chairs and 2 small tables, I oil twice a year and they stay outside all year under a covered patio and they look as god as new.


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## Viking (Aug 26, 2009)

Rick;

We use Wattco Teak Oil on all of our outdoor teak furniture with a light coat every spring. It stands up to the Texas sun well.

Good luck!


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## reggiek (Jun 12, 2009)

As another boater enthusiast…I also use a marine grade teak oil. Do not use an exterior poly or such as teak is naturally oily and will shed the poly quickly…thus discoloring and drying the surface. Exterior poly is ok on woods like redwood and white oak…but does not proctect teak, mahogony and various other hardwoods…the Poly just doesn't bind well whereas the oil gets down in the pores of the wood and gives it much better and longer lasting protection.


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## mmh (Mar 17, 2008)

I've tried a marine formula UV protection poly and it didn't keep either purpleheart or pink ivory from oxidizng. It gave a heavy plastic coating and has a very high VOC which makes applying it very unpleasant and hazardous.

Years ago I was hired to work on a yacht and I was told they had the teak railings redone every 6 months with new poly. They were beautiful but high maintenance.


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## GaryCN (Aug 18, 2007)

I have also used Sikkens Cetol 1 with good relsults. Features
Superior UV Protection, Highly Transparent, Water Repellent, Weather Resistant, Flexible, Breathable.
The Flexible property is probably the most important in a marine application.


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