# Calling all frigid woodworkers!



## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

After seeing increasing threads about the decreasing temperatures in our shops, I thought I'd start a thread about dealing with the cold temperatures in some of our shops. Many people have the luxury of a heated, climate controlled shop. Other people rely on wood-burning stoves, kerosene heaters, or something similar. And yet others (myself included) rely on layered clothing.

Please, don't get me wrong. The point of this is not to complain about my shop (a.k.a. my garage) being 40-45 degrees in the winter. I'm positive there are others here who deal with colder shops. And If I'm in my shop, I'm not complaining, because hey, I'm in my shop!

Besides just being cold, it presents other issues, mostly regarding glues and finishes. I keep my glues inside during the winter months, and if I have pieces to glue, they come inside for 24 hours before I glue them up. Having an oak panel fail miserably with TBIII in the 45 degree shop taught me that lesson. I've also learned to stick more to small projects, like jigs and such, that don't require much glue or finish.

Let's call a "cold" shop anything below 55 degrees.

So, for everyone else out there who works in a cold shop, what lessons have you learned, and what tips can you share to help the rest of us succeed during the winter months?


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I work in a detached garage, so inside it is whatever the outside temp is. 
1) if I am not doing assembly/finishing, I usually run an electric radiator heater a couple of hours before I go out and then just work in the cold. It will trip my breaker if I have the heater running with machines and DC.
2) if I am doing assembly, finishing, I run the electric heater overnight to get the temp up in the mid-50's or low 60's so the glue will adhere and the finish apply more easily.

If it is really cold, mid-day temps below 20, I don't work in the shop.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

My shop is not heated although we have all the walls and most of the ceiling insulated. The pitch of the ceiling is about 15' from the floor and if I was going to heat this 18×30 shop I'd go broke. I also have another shop, 14×14 but no insulation so, heating it is useless and it also has a 15' ceiling. I normally spend the winter months cleaning, re-organizing the shop, sharpening my tools and try to use as many hand tools for my projects to keep warm. I am very cautious while working around power tools and plan on buying some 6" wide Velcro to tie around my sleeves so loose clothing would not present a hazard. One think that I am contemplating on is to also setup an area in the house to do carving when the ice and snow comes or when it gets below 10 or 15 degrees.


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## dozer57 (Apr 18, 2014)

My shop is heated but I turn it off when not in shop, wish I could afford to keep heat on. If I warm it up to be comfortable it will stay nice over night unless its really cold outside. Anything that will freeze goes in a cabinet with a light inside to keep warm. cold wood if small pieces can be microwaved for a few seconds to warm them for glue ups. I have a smaller room that I am going to put a few tools in, like my lathe and workbench and keep it heated always. I hate the cold too.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

The cold doesn't bother me but the damn squirrels that crap everywhere do.


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## sawdustjunkie (Sep 12, 2013)

Last November I built a rocking horse for my grand daughter and had to glue the head to the body.
the next day I was working on it and it fell on the floor and the head broke right off the body where the glue joint was. The joint failed because I glued it up and it was just too cold.
I now do the same thing, take the glue and project in the house, let it warm up, glue it up and let it sit for a few hours till the glue sets. Then I just bring it back out into the garage.
I use a heater like many others do and when I am in the shop, I can usually get the temp up to about 55-60 while I am in there.
I actually gave up trying to do any finishing when it's that cold, because it just turns out like crap when it's that cold.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

> Last November I built a rocking horse for my grand daughter and had to glue the head to the body.
> the next day I was working on it and it fell on the floor and the head broke right off the body where the glue joint was. The joint failed because I glued it up and it was just too cold.- sawdustjunkie


Same kinda thing happened to me. I made a top for a toy box, glued it up, went out the next day and took the clamps off. I held it with both hands and tried to break it in half. I barely had to apply any pressure and it popped in half, clean down the joint line. I cleaned off the old glue and reglued inside, and it's been solid as can be since.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I heat my shop whenever I am out there. It is a challenge though when the outdoor temps are in the zero vicinity, like yesterday. It takes a while for my shop to get to 60°, which is what I consider a good working temp. I do all of my glue ups at the end of a shop session, when the shop will be at its warmest. For finishing I do that in my "second shop" which is a door on a couple of sawhorses in my unfinished basement. I bring my glues inside every time I use them all winter. This system works pretty well except during extreme cold snaps, when getting the shop up to working temperature is just not worth the fuel cost.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

a 60k btu kerosene torpedo heater saved me from 1 winter in a non-insulated garage. picked one up at an auction for $50.
actually, wasn't TOO shabby as compared to something electric or oil burning. I had no problems that winter. granted, the first walk in was overpowering of the smell, but i did not expect the smell of unicorns and glitter either.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Question about the torpedo heater-I looked at some gas fired heaters, and everything I read was that they could be dangerous in a fully closed setting, that torpedo heaters were made to use in spaces like construction sites with partially finished enclosures.

The reason I'm asking is that I'd like a solution that wasn't electric.

In addition, how much space needs to be cleared in front of a torpedo heater.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Charles, I have one of those and they are electric powered and yes, very dangerous in enclosed area. Don't need too much space of you tilt it up.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

MrJinx, I am talking about a kerosene or propane heater that just has an electric fan. They only draw like 1/2 an amp. Is that what you're talking about?


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## TravisH (Feb 6, 2013)

I have slowly been moving to using heat in my shop over the years. I first decided to go ahead and insulate the shop as best as I could and that helped retain heat for a day or two during fall temperature drops. I then used a small propane heater (Mr. Heater Portable buddy) to knock the chill off but depending on how cold it was outside we were looking at warming the shop into the 30's and 40's. Last year I bought a kerosene heater and had no issues heating up into the 70's. I do have to position a fan blowing down from the ceiling and that helps distribute the heat and warms up quickly. I still usually will do glue ups inside.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

This is probably a much better bet.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Charles, this is what I have.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Thanks so much.


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

I have a propane powered little torpedo heater. I forget the name, but it's 55k BTU on high and 30k BTU on low. I run it in my shop to hurry up and get it warmed up when I have to work out there. My shop is 16×24 and once it's warmed up, even on the LOW setting that little heater is too much. So I shut it off and enjoy the quiet and just use a 1500watt electric to maintain temp.

Like most others, all my "freezables" go in the house for the winter. Glue jobs and finishing jobs get down down in the basement. I don't find the torpedo to be at all dangerous, but that assumes using common sense. I keep a window open a bit when it's running. I don't put stuff too close in front of it. How close? How fa away do I have to stand in front of it and not have my pants start smoldering…. then leave a few more feet.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

I have a stand alone insulated shop which I keep heated using a small electric Stanley heater

I don't power it with any of the shop circuits, I instead run an extension cord from an outlet off of the house, keeping it separate from the shop.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I'm pretty intrigued by the Mr. Buddy portable. On sale at Amazon for $89.


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## rantingrich (Sep 19, 2014)

I will not use a Kerosene heater to dangerous. I do not have a 220v circuit in my shop. I bought a cheap oil filled radiator type ate walmart that does little to nothing… Then I got this










DeLonghi TRD0715T Safeheat 1500W Portable Oil-Filled Radiator with Vertical Thermal Tunnels

There are other models but was thinking i might need two got one set it up in my shop the other day. Waited like 45 minutes went out and had to open the garage door to let out some of the heat.

These are by far the best, quietest no GAS heaters I have every used!

They can draw some amps so dont plug them into a circuit that is being used by any other heater or big machine.

I can get by on setting it way low and still toasty warm


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## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

How big of a space are you heating with that Rich? I use a torpedoe right now, but I only run it when I'm out there.


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## rantingrich (Sep 19, 2014)

Just thought I would share how I insulated my shop.

First it was a completely unfinished rough 2 car garage. Studs and sheathing. I put fiberglass in the walls and drywall. I had a hard time how to figure out HOW to effectively insulate the ceiling????

See the first pic









After looking at many solutions. it came to me… 2 inch thick Styrofoam 4×8 sheets from Menardes at only $10 each

I also glued 3/4 inch foam on the bare aluminum garage door THAT made a world of difference.

I was also thinking of how to INSTALL these board on the ceiling, then by change I cut one just a hair bigger than the 24 inch on center ceiling rafters and I just press fit them up between the rafters. Great thing is the CENTER sections are exactly 8 feet long and the side ones are exacty 6 feet long so I took the extra 2 feet off the side ones, glued them end to end and used them again.

In this last pic all I have to do is the end gable and one more section of the rafters









I didnt have to paint them or glue them. PLUS I can pull them out if I need to get to wiring or replace damaged one.

It worked out great. and the cheapest way I could go. It's also very quiet now and cozzy warm.

I know what your thinking.. What if it catches fire???/ It has a flame retardant chemical manufactured in the Styrofoam. I have experimented and tryed many times to burn the stuff. IT CAN'T BE DONE. I melts very fast and moves away quickly form a flame

OPPS GOT MY PICS FLIPPED AROUND but you get the idea


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## rantingrich (Sep 19, 2014)

> How big of a space are you heating with that Rich? I use a torpedoe right now, but I only run it when I m out there.
> 
> - hoosier0311


my place is about 20×20


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## rantingrich (Sep 19, 2014)

One might also notice the new 2×10x 16 foot header above garge door. the Genuine that made this garage literally made the top plate out of pieces of 2×4s nailed together. The center of the opening was 4 inches lower than the outside corners. So Got out my hydralic car jack and jacked it up 4 1/2 inches and bolted the header on


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

Hummm…..What is this cold of which you speak. I've not heard of it .

Pretty much shorts and t-shirts year around in my shop, love the desert.


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## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

> My shop is heated but I turn it off when not in shop, wish I could afford to keep heat on. If I warm it up to be comfortable it will stay nice over night unless its really cold outside. Anything that will freeze goes in a cabinet with a light inside to keep warm. cold wood if small pieces can be microwaved for a few seconds to warm them for glue ups. I have a smaller room that I am going to put a few tools in, like my lathe and workbench and keep it heated always. I hate the cold too.
> 
> - dozer57


How big of a light do you use in the cabinet? this seems like a great idea!


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## JHAstrello (Sep 3, 2014)

My shop (1st floor is 925 sq ft), has a heat pump - but when it's below about 45 - simply takes too long. This will be my first winter with it, so definitely looking for some alternative solutions. Been in the 20's - 30's the past few days, and hard to get it over about 50 inside.

Definitely thinking about a wood stove at some point, possibly a propane solution (I have a propane tank that I can tap into). I have a freestanding nice propane unit in the house (supplemental unit to the electric - $$$). Turned it on yesterday, and really warmed up my house, in the main living area.

I won't do anything till next year, but may do some experimenting this winter.


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

For heating a cabinet, you can also look at a pet store and pick up a kitten warming pad. Yeah… there is such a thing. Or a cat heating pad. Yup…. they're made to maintain the same temp as a normal cat body temp. It's like 104 or something goofy….

anyways…. they're small.. like 10×10 inch maybe…. maybe 8×8 and they only use 4 watts. So roughly the equivalent of a night light. They're FLAT… so you can put them in a cabinet OR you can use duct tape to tape them to the bottom OUTSIDE of the cabinet (depending on what your cabs are made of)

I have 2 of them from raising an abandoned kitten this year and I'm gonna sacrifice one to the shop gods and make a warm cabinet


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## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

I am thinking of making a cabinet, it would be plywood most likely. I'm just a little nervous about overdoing the heat source. stains, paint, glue are all a bit volatile. The heat pad thing makes good sense to me.

BTW Charlie are those cat pads costly?


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I have a heater like the Stanley that Blackie referenced. Right now it is in my shop set on the lowest setting. It's still chilly in there but I don't know the exact temp. This is my plan.
http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416022726&sr=8-1&keywords=plug+in+thermostat
I'll plug my heater into the thermostat and set it on 45 when I'm not there and then turn it up when I go out there.


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## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

Hey Bill, have you ever had to put out a shop fire caused by someone trying to heat a cabinet?


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## NoThanks (Mar 19, 2014)

200,000 BTU Torpedo space heater
3,200 sq ft with 24' ceilings. (approx. 25×130)
$$$ to run, Being long and narrow helps localize the heat. I can go through about 10 gallons of kerosene a week.
I pretty much just aim where I'm working and only run it for a couple hours at a time. Usually takes the chill off and keeps it OK. Then I fire it up for a few minutes every so often when it starts getting too cold. 
If I'm finishing anything I run it longer to make sure it's warmed up good. It helps force dry the pre-cat lacquer.


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

So what do you call cold? It is -20 degrees Celsius at the moment so that works out to about -4 Fahrenheit and it will get colder.
Built my shop 24' by 24' with 10' ceilings., went with in floor heating with a small electric boiler. Figure it cost the same as a hot tub, about $40 to $60 a month when it gets cold. Heat on from mid Oct. to some time in March.
Nice and warm but forgot about a bathroom, oh well next shop maybe or maybe some bush's close to the door!


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

if you let your tools hit "dew point" + frost temps, bounce the freeze thaw cycle around a bit
it never ends well
like all mechanized tools and toys
they dont take well to frost unless u grease them, no different then everything you love : )


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## exelectrician (Oct 3, 2011)

Layer up and put pocket warmers in - "What cold??"


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

sparkies
lol


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

dad used a torpedo on a thermostat set for 40 when he wasn't there and then boosted to 50 when he was. for glue ups he would turn the heater up and prep materials and bring the glue from the house. he would glue up when the temp was above 50 but leave the heater set for 60 over night. it took about 5 gallons a day on cold days he just ran straight number 2 diesel. he used the same heater for about 15 years and then bought another of the same make. Other brands would stink and burn your eyes. the variable output ones are not optimized for any output and will not work the best. For these heaters the high temp of the impingement plate makes them efficient. keep the filter on the back of the burner assembly clean for the primary air too. It takes a pretty specific blend of air and dust to create an explosion. The unit has to be pretty close to something to get it hot enough to set it on fire. we did sweep the floor in front of the heater for about 10 feet before leaving the shop, but never had any trouble. The shop was an old barn, definitely not "tight". It was 32×48 and the ceiling was insulated but not sheet rocked. I posted this in turning. this is how we worked when it was "cool" In Minnesota lol.


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

> BTW Charlie are those cat pads costly?
> 
> - hoosier0311


About $15.
I had it in a cardboard box, covered with a light towel and a microfiber cloth. Kitten in box overnight, next to my bed with a towel over the box to keep the warmth in. But the towel was left so one end of the box was uncovered a couple inches for air. When you pulled the towel back to get the kitten out for a feeding, inside the box was nice and warm.

Someone mentioned something about fire from a heating pad. #1 this is a low temp heating pad, but it *is* a heating pad. But, honestly, if you have a heat source of ANY kind in your shop, you have a potential for fire. Inspect, clean, and use ANY heat source responsibly.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

When I bought my house there was no heat at all directed to the upstairs, so I bought a couple of kerosene heaters (the wick type). I would wake up dizzy and nauseous and was told to leave the window open. Kind of defeats the purpose so I got rid of them. They also pump out a lot of moisture which could rust any metal tools you have. If I were to heat my garage work area I would probably go pellet stove. Quicker than a woodstove and safer too.


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## TravisH (Feb 6, 2013)

> When I bought my house there was no heat at all directed to the upstairs, so I bought a couple of kerosene heaters (the wick type). I would wake up dizzy and nauseous and was told to leave the window open. Kind of defeats the purpose so I got rid of them. They also pump out a lot of moisture which could rust any metal tools you have. If I were to heat my garage work area I would probably go pellet stove. Quicker than a woodstove and safer too.
> 
> - dhazelton


I held off of the kerosene for ever because of the odor I recalled from when my parents used one. It was horrible. I was very surprised with the new heater as this was not an issue. The strongest odor is when turning it off and that is brief. I was concerned about this due to my asthma and almost everything bothering me. The moisture was another concern but so far hasn't been any issue that I can tell but likely has a lot to do with it not exactly being "buttoned" up. I brought a RH pen from work and only had a few % RH fluctuation over the course I used it (8hrs the longest). I also use a carbon monoxide monitor just in case.

Next shop will be climate controlled however.


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## knotheadswoodshed (Jun 14, 2012)

This title is mis-leading…I mistakenly yelled for my wife…....Joking of course, she is actually very sweet and a great scrollsaw artist


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

ouch . . .


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

I have tried Kerosene wick type heaters,kerosene radiant heaters ,in my opinion they smell which is the biggest deterrent for me.
I think those propane torpedo/salamander heaters are a better choice,propane cost seems to be the same as kerosene,but they don't create that nauseating diesel smell .

I now mainly heat up my small shop with two electric radiant heaters and only use a propane heater for 20 minutes in the morning to quickly heat up the garage to a comfortable level then shut it off for the rest of the day.


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## ChrisTheWheeler (Oct 27, 2014)

My shop is a small detached garage. Way too small for my car of the wife's truck. The previous owners used it as a chicken coop! I used a propane heater to keep me toasty warm. Right now, it's 38 degrees outside. The shop is toasty and comfy. I'm working in short sleeves. I usually start it out on full and run it that way for about 25 minutes. Once the space is warmed up, I turn it down to medium and it stays pretty comfy. I leave the tank outside and run the hose under the bay door. I do vent the place. I open the window upper sash a few inches.










A tank will usually last the weekend.

Sadly, about January to early March, the temps even out match the heater. So, I am out of the shop for a few months a year. But not to worry, I have a model airplane hobby and a den in the house to keep me out of trouble.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Denny, not that I can recall in particular. Lots of garage fires from heaters though. I think the safest way to heat a cabinet is a 60 watt incandescent bulb with about 8" clearance. This is how I give my chickens and goats a bit of heat when it gets really cold. Sometimes stuff just happens and things catch on fire. It can happen in my home with electric furnace or in my shop with my space heater. Things don't work right and get hot, too hot.


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## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

I have an experiment going right now. I put a 40 watt bulb in the cabinet I intend to use, I'll see how warm it is inside when I get home at midnight.


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## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

28 degrees on my way home, the cabinet was ice cold. being the rocket scientist that I am I shut the lights off in the shop when I left, not giving any thought to where I plugged the cabinet light in. DoooH. so it is on now and I will get a a reading when I get home Tonight at midnight.


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## KevinL (Sep 14, 2014)

My shop is 12×24, and have tried the kerosene and propane heat the last couple years. Tired of bringing everything into the house for the winter so this year I have installed a 220 electric heater. I have 2×6 insulated walls with 10" in the ceiling and 2" of rigid foam under the cement.

So far it's working great but will know more when I get the first electric bill. I turn it down and hold it around 50 while I'm away, and it only takes about 10 minutes get it up to 62 ish. The older I get, the warmer I like it.

One thing I do know is my snow blower started on the first pull this morning without using the electric start.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

> 28 degrees on my way home, the cabinet was ice cold. being the rocket scientist that I am I shut the lights off in the shop when I left, not giving any thought to where I plugged the cabinet light in.
> 
> - hoosier0311


Haha. I did the same thing a few weeks ago, when we bought a freezer for our garage. I plugged it in, fired it up, and my wife came home the next day and said it didn't feel cold, but that she could hear it running. I got home and realized that the outlet I put it on was controlled by the wall switch that turns the lights on. So, when you went out to check on it and turned on the lights, it was running. Luckily I didn't put any food in it until I knew it was functioning properly. Ran a new outlet and laughed it off.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

My shop is 12×24 and I don't have 220 out there. Wish I did and I will some day. Until then I just use a 110 space heater. It does pretty good except on the coldest days, when I use two. This year I am gonna try keeping my little heater going all the time set to the lowest setting. When I go out there I will turn it up. If I can keep working out there all winter I can easily pay for the increase in electricity Bill.


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## jshroyer (Nov 10, 2013)

i work out of my basement for small items which is heated. The garage is used for cutting sheet goods and long boards down so i can get them to the basement. The finishing i usually just use paint or something that is low odor in the winter time. Otherwise i wait until its above freezing and then apply a finish. I just finished a kitchen table in my garage before it went to freezing. Because it was so cold i would apply a coat then give it 2 days before i went in to sand and apply another coat. It make my project take a lot longer to finish because it would dip below freezing every couple days so i would have to plan for it. Took 2.5weeks to complete.


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## kweinert (Nov 20, 2009)

I have a 300,000 BTU propane heater like this one: https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0478074

I picked it up at Lowes as a custom order return (unopened) for less than 1/4 of the best price that's listed on that site.

I don't, of course, keep it going all the time, but it doesn't take long to warm the place up. I have about 1/2 of a 3 car garage that's currently uninsulated and open to the roof (no ceiling.) Both of those things are in line to be changed, it's just coming up with the disposable income to do so.

The thing I like best about this is that it has a thermostat so it doesn't run continuously. I also have a calibrated 2×4 to prop open the rear garage door to ensure sufficient fresh air makes it in to the shop.

I do look forward to the day when I can manage an insulated space that I can keep heated. Those tools really soak in the cold and it's not all air temperature that makes for a comfortable working space.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

> I also have a calibrated 2×4
> - kweinert


Well now that just sounds downright fancy. None of my 2×4's come calibrated!


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## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

So I get home last night and go out to the shop. The temp was 39 degrees at midnight. The temp in the cabinet was 71. The 60 watt bulb produces plenty of heat when it's in the 40s. I'll see how it goes when it gets really cold. I do plan to add some insulation and seal the cabinet up better. I'll get some pictures and post them tonight.


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## Woodbum (Jan 3, 2010)

Charles: Yes, a propane fueled, fan driven heater (torpedo) can be dangerous in a tightly sealed enclosed area. But my garage does not qualify as a TIGHTLY SEALED ENCLOSED AREA. My OH door has air leaks around it like almost every door that I have seen. That being said, I use one in the winter in my shop with RULES. I never leave the heater unattended- I only run it until the interior temp hits 60-and I keep the gas shut off at the cylinder when not in use. I have been using one for 5-6 years with no ill effects, or even the hint of a fire danger. I usually only have to crank it up 2-3 times per shop session for 8-10 min at a stretch. I will get some flack over this, but so what? This setup works for me, but each of us has to make our own decisions. The best thing that I did however, was to replace the cheap assed contractor grade OH door with a good Clopay insulated door. Now I can stand to work in there when it is< 20, or when it is >100 here in OK


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## joeyinsouthaustin (Sep 22, 2012)

> I also have a calibrated 2×4
> - kweinert
> 
> Well now that just sounds downright fancy. None of my 2×4 s come calibrated!
> ...


Yes you have to calibrate them yourself.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I bought this propane infrared heater today for $70. We'll see how it works.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

CharlesA,
Those ceramic propane heaters are awesome. Just don't get any dust on or near it and it should be AOK. I have a five panel one in the house when electricity fails.


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## daddywoofdawg (Feb 1, 2014)

I storage glues and spray paint in coolers,keeps it from freezing.
I use tarps hung to have smaller areas to heat.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

My shop, which is a production wood working shop is in my two car garage under the bedrooms. The doors leak, I just added some weather striping and it's helping, plus there is a 5" round heat duct pointing at the back wall. What I use is the Delonghi radiator space heater. If you have some large piece of metal that is light, fix it on top of the heater and it gets even more efficient. I put a box fan on low at the other end of the room to keep the air moving. I build furniture for a living and fire is my greatest fear, so this is all I use. I also keep all my electric up high, ceiling mounted, so in the event of an over load the smell will alert me before it smolders into sawdust behind some bench. I do hang myself sometimes on a powercord, but it's worth it.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

My shop has some heat from the house but not too much. So, I use one of the radiator type heaters (1500 KWH) to take the chill off. I also bought one of the electrical gadgets that tell you how much electricity that you use and the costs. It plugs into the outlet and then plug the heater into it.

My electrical costs are around $0.12 per KWH. If I run the heater all of the time in cold weather, the costs can run $60-80 per month. With this type of heater, it does not have a fan so it takes awhile to warm things up. I decided that I would buy a suitable electrical time so that it only runs about 12 hours a day and that cuts the cost to a little more than half of what running it all the time.

It may be interesting to you to determine the costs of running electrical heaters….it can be a bit shocking.


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