# Board width for table top glue up



## DerekW (Jul 23, 2018)

I have about 6 walnut boards of various widths that I need to glue together for a 24" wide table top. Based on the widths of the boards, I can use 5 of them for the table top, assuming that I cut about 1/8 - 1/4" from each side for jointing (I don't have a jointer so I typically give myself about extra room on each side to ensure a true and flat surface).

My primary question - does it matter that the boards will be various widths when I glue them together? For example, I may end up with two 6" wide boards, one 5" wide board, one 3" board, and one 4" board. I'm assuming that structurally it will be fine but will look odd aesthetically unless I can match the grain really well (which I doubt I'll be able to).

My secondary question is - how does one deal with boards that are bowed and/or kinked when gluing a table top? I don't have a jointer, and the boards are already at 13/16" thick so I don't have a lot of wiggle room to plane them down to my target of 3/4". I'm hoping that during the glue up, the straighter boards will help the flatten out the bowed boards.


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

The width on those boards is fine. From a looks standpoint is really up to you. Personally I would consider what type of finish and if it would hide any small/large pairings. I once used a 1" strip to get to final width. The grain/finish hid it so much you couldn't even tell.

You have a little wiggle room with cupping and bowed boards depending on length of top. Starting with straight lumber is always best.

Caulls, dowels, biscuits may help.


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## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

Don't expect to use straight boards to correct bowing or twists in other boards in the glue-up. You will be simply adding tensions that will show up later.


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## gdaveg (Aug 1, 2020)

You say that the top can be built with 5 boards but have 6. Why not use all 6? Then you can cut one to match the width of one of the 5, 4 or 3" wide boards. If it truly can't be laid out symmetrically do the layout random. You could also add strips of another lighter or different colored wood and maybe with some cutting can develop a symmetric pattern.

Is there a lumber store that can thickness plane the glued up combination? There is one in Portland and Tucson.
Added a picture to show a possibility.










The middle of the table panel ended up 11/16" thick started at 13/16". Used cauls to keep as flat as I could.

There is a Guild of Washington, DC/Maryland that you may be able to contact that would thickness plane the glue up for you for some $. The portland guild has a jobs wanted section that goes out weekly to members. link here:

https://washingtonwoodworkersguild.org


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> Don t expect to use straight boards to correct bowing or twists in other boards in the glue-up. You will be simply adding tensions that will show up later.
> 
> - Phil32


I agree with this assessment, you are asking for trouble later down the road, if not right from the start. The closest to flat, square, and true your stock is, the better will be the success of the build. If you don't have the requisite tools to square your stock, perhaps see if your wood source can't do this for a sum.

There are members here who also don't own power equipment for prepping stock, but do use hand tools to do so. If cost or space keep you from owning the equipment, this may be a path you want to investigate.

In regard to the first part of your question I would grade how the boards look lying next to each other for color, and grain, more than I would for width. Your last statement makes me wonder if you shouldn't be sourcing more wood for your project, both for match, as well as for greater thickness. The largest flaw woodworkers make is trying to get XYZ thickness from a board that rough is barely larger than that to begin with.

Use what you already have for aprons, or another project completely. Something that could do well at 5/8" or so. That would give you plenty to work with.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

+1 to what has been said.

1. No issue with the width of the boards. Arrange them for the best look and symmetry.

2. Absolutely get the stock *flat and square* before the glue-up. Otherwise, you're "trying to get a clear picture from a fuzzy negative" and just asking for trouble.

JMHO


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

I think aesthetically, either all the same widths. For this I will take the least common denominator and rip them all to that width. However if this would leave me with too much waste or unusable scraps, then i may make it so that the outer 2 boards are thick or thinner than all of the middle boards, where all the middle boards are the same. Another consideration is that I make sure that no rips are on a knot or wonky grain area.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

I think tables top look the best with odd numbers of boards. 1,3,5 etc.
I also like the look of straight grain on the long edges. 
Walnut tables are as good as it gets. Even if the top is warped and twisted from wonky lumber it's still pretty nice. 
Thick creepy glue lines are the worst and should be avoided. 
Good luck


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## CaptainKlutz (Apr 23, 2014)

+1 pictures if truly want help.

IMHO - Number of boards in table top is poor way to look at making large panels.
Number of boards is irrelevant, compared to other considerations!

#1 Requires flat boards to make a flat panel.

If your boards are not flat, and can not be flattened at full width and maintain proper thickness; then rip widths and make boards perfectly flat before even considering how many boards make a table top. 
Then once you have flat boards, can arrange the grain pattern to produce a good looking panel.
YMMV


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## dbw (Dec 2, 2013)

> +1 to what has been said.
> 
> 1. No issue with the width of the boards. Arrange them for the best look and symmetry.
> 
> ...


+1 on this +1. I guess this makes it +2?


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## DerekW (Jul 23, 2018)

Thanks everyone for your input. The consensus is what I've feared. Unfortunately, these are the only boards I have and will have so I'll just have to try and make it work as best as I can. Your input has encouraged me to try different ideas rather than "glue it up and hope for the best".

For those interested, here is a pic of the boards in no particular order, best face showing.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

I would put the board on the right out side in the middle. With two boards on each side 5 board top.
Also consider taking out the one with the dark figured area . It looks like trouble to me.
Good Luck


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