# DIY Cyclone Dust Collector



## SimonSKL

*DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*

Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.










At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.

The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.

To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.










I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.










This is the final look of the sheet metal










I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.









Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.









I soldered the seam with a propane torch.









With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.









I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.









The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.









A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.

















To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter. 









To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.

















PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


----------



## Ottis

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Great directions…very good and easy to follow. Thanks for posting it.


----------



## Splinterman

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Hey Simon,
Good instructions and cheap functional job….......well done.


----------



## darryl

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


This could come in really handy. thanks for sharing.


----------



## Praki

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Wow! This is very nice! I think now I can start building my version of this dust collector


----------



## Sandy

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


When you mention the 4" adapter, to what type of adapter are you referring? I had been thinking about making a separator based on Phil Thien's design, http://www.cgallery.com/jpthien/cy.htm but this one seems to be no more difficult, so I'm now rethinking my direction. I currently a large Delta Dust Collector, and a few shop vacs, which I attach to my radial arm saw, or use to clean up around the lathe. They are constantly clogging, so a reasonable separator sounds like a worthwhile project.


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## SimonSKL

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Sandy,
May be I should say coupler instead of adapter. I hope this is a better picture of what the coupler (adapter) looks like.


----------



## cpd011

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Just finish making my version of this cyclone. Thank you so much for the step by step photos. I'll post a picture as soon as I figure out how to use one of the photo servers. I actually didn't even use a coupler at the bottom. The fit was tight enough to the two pieces of plywood I used and epoxy did the rest. I also added a brace that runs from the bucket lid/ plywood cover to the plywood at the top of the separator. Tried it out briefly today and it worked like a charm.


----------



## jcoulam

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


SimonSKL, I really like the way you setup the vac with the PVC connection, that's a great improvement. I'm going to do the same to mine!


----------



## SimonSKL

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Jeff, Thanks for the comment. My PVC connections are all friction connected meaning no cement was used so I can easily remove them if needed. The fit is tight enough no cement is necessary.


----------



## Korey99

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Hi Simon - thanks for your excellent write-up. I made one based on your design and it's AMAZING how well it works. Thanks for sharing!

The only real things I did differently were using a PVC flange for the bottom mounting and routing a groove into the top cap instead of fitting it inside the cone like yours.

http://www.atterberry.net/funstuff/cyclone-dust-separator-for-shop-vac/


----------



## Conehead

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Simon, thank you very much!!! I know it's been a while but great ideas never die. I also spent some time searching for tools to help layout the cone on flat stock. After combining the results of several, I put together this dimensioned layout (hope it's clear) that anyone can follow to make a cone 8" dia. at the top, 3" at the bottom, & 24" high.


----------



## Conehead

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Again, thanks Simon & Jeff. I got my version completed & tested today & it works like a charm. I haven't done much woodworking in a few years but I have a fence, a lot of ogees and a wall of garage shelving to install, so finding this site was very timely for me. I'll save a fortune in shop vac filters & a lot of sweeping.


----------



## AlmostHandy

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Just awesome. I built mine a few weeks ago, and it works wonderfully! Thank you so much for the simple design. I pretty much followed along with a few minor exceptions. I went with a large fiber drum for collecting the chips, and have it connected to my industrial wet-dry vac. Before, I would have to clean out the vac after every use, or I would lose a lot of suction, but since I built it, I haven't had to clean the vac out once!

Thanks SimonSKL!


----------



## SimonSKL

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Is that a commercial in my blog? If yes, will the mod please remove it. Thanks!


----------



## JerryBerry

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


I'm gonna be on this one like ugly on a ape!


----------



## jbert

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Finally got mine built. The most difficult part for me anyway was making the inlet tube on the side really strong. The sealants I used may not have been the right ones as they let it wiggle too much. Neighbor across the alley brought over his fiberglassing kit and that did the job. It will never move anymore. Whole setup looks kinda ugly due to my abilities, but works like a charm and that is all that is important.

THANKS

Jim


----------



## cuyeda

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


So… I spent all afternoon making one of these. A bit of difficulty getting the cone shape worked out. After I finished putting it all together, then came the test. Worked like a champ! After sucking up a pail full of saw dust, the vacuum was nearly empty, almost clean!

Now the bad news, while doing the test I hit the bottom of the bucket by accident, and it the 4" vacuum hose stuck to the bottom of the pail. It was just a split second when I was able to reach with the other hand and pull it loose. Well to late! It crushed the sides of the cone, and since I didn't have the bucket secure from falling, it fell and broke my inlet tube from the epoxy job that I did.

I used HVAC duct material for the cone. I wonder if a thicker gauge would be more crush proof. Any further comments?


----------



## cuyeda

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


After building this unit, and working so well, I am considering purchasing the Oneida Dust Deputy. The cone looks shorter than this DIY version. Are there performance differences regarding the length/diameter of the cone?

I wonder if I built another one with a shorter cone, it would provide a bit more rigidity on the walls of the cone. It may prevent the cone from being imploded. Has anyone experimented with different sized cones?


----------



## Essarairsystems

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Well Presentation about the Dust collector.Thanks for sharing….http://www.essarairsystems.com


----------



## LegendInMyOwnMind

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Cone in sketchup,,,


----------



## Joo

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Hi Simon,

I am going to try to make the dust collector based on your design. I am wondering what is the thickness of the tin you are using for the cone.

Thanks and Regards,
Joo


----------



## SimonSKL

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Joo, I don't know the exact dimension but that's standard thickness for metal duct works that you find in any home improvement center.


----------



## Pie

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Wow very nice dust collector.

This weekend I moved my shop from an outside shed to the basement. With winter approaching and not looking forward to handling cold steel, I moved to our unused basement. That means better dust collection. A couple years ago I made jptheins system and have to tell you it works great. After a year of dust collection the trash can was filled about 3" from the top and the vac bag was barely full. So if anyone is thinking about doing it, I would recommend it. I am now using a fine filter and bag due to the move. That said the system here is very nice and looks similar to the big systems out there. Either way not having any type of dust collector is not good at all. Thanks for posting this SimonSKL cuz I may want to build one like this.

Keep up the good work!


----------



## Vii

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Wow great job on this I have to make me one just because it looks so easy great job !


----------



## DancingWood

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


@cuyeda - I made mine smaller and it works great. My cone is only 20" high, 6 1/2" diameter at the top and 3" at the base. Thanks for the inspiration Simon!


----------



## cuyeda

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


I still use my diy cyclone, and recently added fittings and adapters to my tools. I am looking creative ways of attaching both to a dedicated roll around like Steve's photo above, and or a way of dedicating a distribution system.

This is way over the top, but gives some ideas. I don't have this much room to do a double, but considering some kind of single line.
http://www.gallery2.clearvuecyclones.com/v/Mini+CV06/Tom+Blomstrom/

Someone made a nice cyclone from wood strips, and did a great job. I can't find the instructions to share here at the moment, but I am looking for ideas on creating a simple base unit to roll around.


----------



## drfisherman

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Awesome - is there a lot of pressure on the cyclone applied by the shop vac to the unit?


----------



## SimonSKL

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Drfisherman, the metal cyclone handles the pressure from the shop vac very well it was the plastic bucket that collapsed under the pressure. I ended up using a plastic bucket with heavier material and I have been running it for several years without any problem. Still my all around most favorite dust collection system in the shop.


----------



## Bojac

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


This is impressive work but to me it appears very time consuming and frankly I am not up to the challenge especially the metal portion. I looked all around to find something less daunting and something I could build from on hand supplies. I found instruction somewhere for a Thein (top hat) type and after lots of head scratching managed to build one. It seemed to work and immediately I saw less saw dust and actually the air seemed cleaner even though I used a small shop vac and exhaust into the shop air. I made another one after I saw such improvement and put it in the rear of the shop. I got confused and made the air swirl the wrong way but it still collects dust from the planer, second table saw for dado work and the band saw. For those like me who are too timid to try metal work the top hat seems a valid choice and it is smaller so portability is easier. Using mostly scrap materials people gave me I have eliminated tons of saw dust and use it for compost where applicable. Now my next project is to find a 110 volt AC blower and use it to vent fines outside. If I can locate two I intend to make an air cleaner even though I read they actually do little in a shop as filthy as mine. Y'all keep that saw dust flying into receptacles if you can but keep it flying!


----------



## jay_in_cgohio

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


As I am building the shop back up I think I may need to try this. I already have a shop vac and could spend the money for a dust collector on something else. Working with metal is something I would like to try and avoid so I would like to run a alternative past all of you for your thoughts/input.

What about using a sheet of poster board? Once you have it taped and cut into the perfect funnel shape I could coat it with some fiberglass resin at first then slowly build up some layers of cloth and resin. It should be rigid enough once you get enough layers on it.


----------



## Grandpa

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Fiberglass would work. No doubt about that. The cyclone needs to be smooth inside. The smoother the better and the poster board would wear out leaving a rougher surface. I think metal would be easier to work with than fiberglass and I also think it would cost less. There are cyclones out there that are commercially available. Those might be as cheap as buying the fiberglass to make the one your talking about. You would need to check those prices because I am just guessing. I bought some automotive grade fiberglass in a kit about 25 years ago. For me it was far more difficult to work with than metal. I would buy a piece of heavy flashing. It comes in rolls and my local lumber yard sells it by the foot. If you can't get it there try an air conditioning place that fabricates their own duct work.


----------



## jay_in_cgohio

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


The cost was my one thought. Looks like I will be stopping by Menards tomorrow after work to see what I can come up with.


----------



## cuyeda

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


If I were to do it over again, I would just buy one commercially made rather than running all over the big box store figuring out parts. IMHO. In my case, an issue of implosion of the metal cone occurred, especially if you have a decent HP vacuum. Just don't get it stuck to a flat surface to create significant suction draw! haha! If a heavier gauge metal were to be used, would be better. The drawback is forming the cone into such a tight angle, IMHO.

Being a new woodworker, saving money is one thing, and the satisfaction of making my own was good. You can find the Cyclone Dust Deputy for as low as $39.00+shipping. Find a any bucket to attach to.


----------



## jay_in_cgohio

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


I hear what you are saying cuyeda. I keep going back to the dust deputy. I have no issue paying the 39.99, it is the shipping cost that gets me…. I know you cant be a super tight wad when it comes to hobbies, shipping has just always been a sore spot with me.


----------



## crank49

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


To start with, the metal in home center ducts is very thin. Like 26ga. or 28ga.
If you could get some 20ga sheet metal it would not collapse.

If your only choice is the thin stuff you could stiffen it up with a flange cut to fit the cone at its mid point.

The length of the cone improves its efficiency at collecting very fine dust. A shorter cone will still work and be more rigid, but it won't capture as much fine dust. That is why Dyson vacuums have a bunch of small cyclones to capture the dust. If they only had one cyclone and the ratio of the inlet pipe diameter to the cyclone height was kept the same, the vacuum would have to be 6 feet tall.


----------



## jay_in_cgohio

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


I just pulled the trigger on the craftsman 21833 table saw since it is on sale right now for 479. With that done I will need to get busy on this. Will go with the original at the top here with a couple small mods as it happens.

Thanks for the input guys


----------



## crank49

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


I have that same saw. 
Be very sure to check the blade to miter slot alignment at several different heights.
This is the same saw as the Ridgid 4512 and all brands under which this saw is sold have had some units with a defect in the lift mechanism.

Mine has the defect.
When I raise the blade the arbor shifts to one side.
When I lower the blade the arbor shifts back, but not necessarily to the same place. It is not repeatable.

Bottom line, I didn't realize it was a defect and kept re-aligning the machine. I thought my alignment problems were me not getting the alignment correct in the first place.
By the time I figured out it was a bad machine it was too late to get it replaced under warranty.

Trust me, this is a nice saw, especially for the price, but if you get one of the defective ones you will hate it.

Also, be aware that neither Ridgid nor Sears will admit these saws are defective and fix the manufacturing problem. They just seem to have the attitude that most folks will not know they are defective or will not fool with the hassle of returning the saw after they have spent hours assembling it.

My saw is 4 years old and just a couple months ago there were people still getting lemons.
One LJ returned his saw three times for a replacement and finally bought something else out of frustration.


----------



## jay_in_cgohio

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


I knew when I bought it about all the reviews on the alignment problems. Most of the bad reviews I read are very old and the newer ones don't really mention it. In either case I will be sure to check it over with a close eye and purchased the 2 year in home service with it. I have had really good luck with this service in the past and for 49 bucks I feel it is worth it.


----------



## Grandpa

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


I have looked at a couple of cyclones and some have a spiral that is added metal inside the cone to make the dust flow downward so we think. This should greatly stiffen the walls of the cone.


----------



## jay_in_cgohio

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Looking at the bottom of the cone I am confused about the adapter used.


----------



## jay_in_cgohio

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


In the end I went with the dust deputy. I did make one but think I had it too long. I was getting more dust in the shop vac then what I was catching in the bucket.


----------



## Mimeda

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Hello everybody, I made and been using a similar home made cyclone for several months after seeing this post and works wonderfully. I have recently acquired a proper dust collector with 2 HP motor and rather than buying a commercial cyclon (x example Super dust Deputy, etc) I was wondering if anybody has tried building a similar cyclone but with 4 or 5 inch ports and if so what kind of materials would work best?


----------



## anth

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


I have difficulty imagining how a cyclone works, perhaps someone can explain, why doesn't the sawdust entering the cyclone from the side just get sucked into the vacuum pipe?


----------



## Landscpr

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Hi,

I've recently come across this post and am in the process of building my own and have a question about the lid on the pail: The lids I can get at the local HD come in two varieties: hard to get off and impossible to get off. Just wondering what the secret to emptying these pails is? If i try to pull the lid off with the cyclone on top it will just crumple under the force needed to peel off the lid. Perhaps I'm missing something in the instructions or you guys have access to easy lifting tops. Just wondering how you've solved this part of the puzzle.

Thanks,

Jason


----------



## SimonSKL

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Jason, I have been using the same bucket since the beginning. The bucket was for holding salt for saltwater aquarium. The lid is not hard to remove and has a good seal. After popping the lid off the bucket, I use a 2×4 (cut to the same height as the bucket) to pop the lid up as I remove the bucket for emptying. Hope this helps.


----------



## Grandpa

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


There are openers made for opening these buckets. They sell for about $5 at all beekeeping supply places


----------



## Landscpr

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Simon, thanks, that gives me an idea for easy opening of my pail, perhaps a 2×4 just a touch taller than my pail to push down onto and ease the lid off. Now I also see the need to hold up the whole contraption while emptying the pail.

Grandpa, that's a good idea. it seems that I am not the only one who finds these lids tight!

I'm excited to get this thing going, I'll post pics if I find a slightly different solution to anything.

Thanks,

Jason


----------



## Landscpr

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


oh, another thing I thought to mention, since these original posts I guess inflation has taken off. I paid about 35.00 for my supplies (not including bucket bottom and duct work which I had on hand) However the Dust Deputy has also gone up too, or it because I'm in Canada and everything is more expensive than the U.S.

J


----------



## Fhawe

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


http://craig-russell.co.uk/demos/cone_calculator/ This should be helpful.


----------



## JMorton

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


Could you repost the pictures of this? All I'm seeing is that the Photobucket account needs to be updated to allow 3rd party hosting. Thanks!


----------



## WoodworkingDIY

SimonSKL said:


> *DIY Cyclone Dust Collector*
> 
> Inspired by Jeff's (Jcoulam) homemade cyclone dust collector, I decided to make one just like his. This blog is written to show how I built it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At a local home center, I purchased one 8"x24 metal duct, a 5-ft 2" PVC pipe, a 2" PVC elbow, and two 2" couplers for about $18.
> 
> The first step is to make the cone. I tried to twist the metal sheet into a cone but just couldn't make it look right and managed to get a small cut in my hand in the process. Ouch! In trying to think of a better way to make the cone, it dawn on me why not make a paper pattern of the cone first. This is how my wife makes all her clothes, from paper patterns.
> 
> To draw the paper pattern, I used a rectangular sheet of paper about 26"x24", the same size as the metal duct. I drew a center line on the paper. I measured the circumference of a 8" dia circle and transfered the measurement to the top of the paper. Keeping it symmetrical from the center line on the paper. I then measured the circumference of the adapter and transferred that to the bottom of the paper. I drew a line connecting the top measuring mark to the bottom on each side. After cutting out the unwanted parts, the shape of the pattern should look like a fan. After some trial and error, I finally got the curvatures of the top and the bottom right so the cone would be flat on top and bottom. The final paper pattern gave me a cone with about 7 3/4" circle at the top and 3 3/4" at the bottom. I want a larger hole at the bottom to make sure all the chips would fall into the bucket. The bottom of the cone will be inserted into a 4" adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then traced the pattern onto the sheet metal and cut it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the final look of the sheet metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a lip of about 1/4" at each edge so they could hook together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping a metal pipe into a vice bench, I used a hammer to flatten the hooked seam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered the seam with a propane torch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the cone shape and dimension finalized I made and fitted the circular top out of 3/4" plywood. I made two of these circles, the other one to anchor the cone to the bucket. I then used the bandsaw and rough cut the inlet tube following the contour of the cone at the top. Taping a piece of sandpaper to the top of the cone, I sanded the inlet tube to its final contour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I traced the contour of the inlet tube onto the cone and cut out an opening. the top of the opening was about an inch below the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlet tube was inserted into the opening and protruded about 1/8" into the cone. This gave some extra surface area for the epoxy glue to grab on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 2 3/8" hole was made in the top for the outlet tube. The outlet tube extended about 6 1/2" into the cone and 1 1/2" outside the cone for the 90 degree elbow. 2-part 5 min epoxy was used to attached the outlet tube to the top. 4 screws were used to secure the top to the cone. The fit was so good so I decided not to use any sealant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To anchor the bottom of the cone to the bucket, I cut a hole in the plywood circle at the same radius as the adapter. A same size hole was also cut into the lid of the bucket. 4 screws were used to attach the wood circle to the lid of the bucket. I then used metallic duct tape to seal the cone to the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To test my cyclone dust collector, I vacuumed a small amount of saw dust off the floor and they were all collected in the bucket. Suction was very strong and the bucket did not collapse … a successful outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: In order to make this whole system truly mobile, this is my upgrade of the mobile dust collection system.


DIY 16 000 project plans.


----------

