# Create bevel with a planer



## JCantin (Jan 21, 2009)

I want to make a version of the beefy mirror frame shown in the current Woodsmith #192. I'm starting with 6/4 oak about 5" wide for the rails and stiles. These are supposed to be partially beveled 10 degrees by attaching a 10 degree cleat to the workpiece with double side tape and then running it through the planer. Has anyone done this before? I tried a test piece and it looked like once the high edge hit the roller it just tipped the whole workpiece until the top face was in plane. I didn't make too many passes because it was not feeding normally and I had to use a push stick to move it through. The rollers left tire marks on the surface. I have the DeWalt 735 which runs fine on square stock.

I was thinking maybe if I kept running it the blades would take more off the high side the more passes I made and it would tip less on each pass. The feed problem caused me to stop trying though and I'm very hesitant to try it with the pricey oak.

-Jeff


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

I think I would do this bevel with a hand plane, just like the old craftsmen did.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

Some of the big planers do have the option of putting in different profile knives. (Outta my league price range)
I use my jointer. Set the fence to right degree of angle, you are good to go.


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## cabmaker (Sep 16, 2010)

As noted handplane is ideal but a jointer really shines on such an operation. Btw, it can be done with a thickness planer but by the time it takes to set up, well, Im just saying. Good luck JB


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## live4ever (Feb 27, 2010)

A bandsaw won't give you a very clean finish, but that could also work if you don't have a jointer handy.


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## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

I agree with using the jointer or a hand plane as well.
Another alternative might be to use compound miter cuts instead.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

The method does work fine, I am not sure what your cleat looks like but it shouldn't tip.

I usually do most of the "Grunt" work of this with the tablesaw set at 10 degrees. You cannot get the full width for your 5 inch wide rails, however most saws will cut 3 inches - this gives you a good flat surface that your planer can finish chewing through rather than having it try to cut the 90 degree edge sticking up.


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## DonH (Sep 8, 2010)

I recently built two tables with beveled edges and hand planed them. It sounds discouraging at first but in fact it went very well and I don't think it was more time consuming than setting up a machine etc. That said, the plane should be very sharp and you will likely get some tear out issues if the grain is complex. If so, just stop short of the final bevel and sand away (not fun but quick in this application, use a block and 80 grit to almost finalize the bevel and run through the grits from there). Using this methodology I did two oval tables in about two hours including pout time when I realized I could only do this (in my shop) safely and predictably by hand.


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## Gofor (Jan 12, 2008)

Another method is to use the table saw. Set blade bevel at 10 degrees with blade up about 2 1/2". Run through. move fence to opposite side of the blade, flip board over clockwise or counter clockwise (not end to end)and finish cut from other side. Smooth any mismatch with a card scraper, hand plane or flat sanding block.

As always, test set-up with scrap first.

Go


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