# Ok I've done it again- bent the bandsaw blade!



## TJ65 (Jan 19, 2010)

Yea I have again bent the bandsaw blade and it's a new one too. I know what I did with this one but how to prevent it happening agin. I was just cutting 5 mm slices off a birch tree branch approx 6cm thick. Some of the side was a bit corky and it just caught and twisted the blade. My question is how do you know what is suitable to cut on the bandsaw with out it buggering up and also any hints on straightening the thing. This blade is 1/4 inch the other 1/2 inch and a longer blade (dont know off hand what size). Not a small machine anyway!
Please dont tell me I have to buy another I just recently bought two, and if I keep doing this sort of thing they are certainly not great value!!! :-(


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## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

Sounds like it might have rolled on you. Cutting rounds is tricky because they will roll into the blade. Try some method of securing the round while you are cutting it to keep it from rolling like a wooden hand screw clamp etc.


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## mosaicwes (Sep 14, 2010)

I've never bent a band saw blade altho I've worn out quite a few.
Are you sure you had enough tension on it?


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## TJ65 (Jan 19, 2010)

Yea the tensioning was fine, as Dez said it might have rolled. I know thats how I did the first one, this one I wasn't all that sure if thats what it did.


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## woodjewelry (Jun 9, 2010)

I make a lot of wooden jewelry from branches. Branches are realy great for bending bandsaw blades.

To stop this you need a flat surface on the wood your are cutting with the bandsaw to hold securely without twisting on to the table top.

If the branch is thick enough you could plane a flat surface, or if not I always attach a larger peice of scrap 2"x4" to the branch with tightly wound blue tape, wrapping from end to end ( make sure the scrap piece rests flat on the table top. You can use screws to attach the scrap but you have to be real careful not to hit them with the blade.

Also cut the branch first and not the scrap first.

When you cut a branch initialy the widest part is in front of the blade supporting the cut, once you go past half way there is no support for the wood being cut, if the blade binds, the unsuported wood will be dragged down to the table top, this is very dangerous as it can pull fingers in to the blade or bend and even snap the blade.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Theresa, I have done this too not so long ago, it rolled when I tryed to freestyle…
Control, control - loose control…
Smiles,
Mads


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## TJ65 (Jan 19, 2010)

Hey Thanks mark, I think you hit the nail on the head there, as I was cutting up the branch to make some jewelry. I had a great looking piece of spalted birch branch. Actually I had cut the majority of it, so at least I have the wood, maybe if I can sell these pieces they will pay for the blades!!!!!


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

we bought the" "little ripper  a wood show. (larger pieces of wood)

Other LumberJocks have made their own version … I can't remember who posted them, though, or what they called them .. so can't do a search for you.


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## Bob Collins (Apr 25, 2008)

Looks like you have you answers Theresa, I gave up using the band saw and cut most my stuff with the table saw. Short fingers Bob they call me.


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## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

When I resaw a branch on the band saw I put the branch in the vice and use a hand plane to flatten one side to prevent it from rolling. Just been to lazy to make a jig due to I don't do a lot of resawing. Hope this helps.


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## lashing (Sep 4, 2010)

The timberwolf type blades bend pretty easy sometimes.

If anyone has every roughed out curve cuts like a propeller blade or chair seat … then the potential to bend a blade is big. You're not supposed to cut like this on a bandsaw but many do, including some very respected craftsman like Maloof.


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## mtnwild (Sep 28, 2008)

This has happened to me so many times. Each time I tell myself, Remember the last time, I thought you knew better! LOL.
Keep a sharp blade and the wood must remain totally firm with no way to move. That's hard sometimes when you are cutting odd shapes. You have to be totally involved with what you are doing and work smart. Chalk it up to experience, learn from it, move on. 
I've straightened out a few kinks from bent blades, but I only keep them for cutting firewood and such. Would not use them on an important cut. Might grab again. 
Good luck…..................


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

I haven't seen anyone ask yet, so I will: How many teeth per inch are the blades that are getting bent? Seems to me that a blade with a higher TPI might help solve your problem, with less of a chance of the branch snagging a fine-tooth blade than a coarser blade as you feed your stock through.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

Yep, been there…. bent a relatively new blade cutting some round stock. Learned my lesson, I always put round stock into a handscrew as Dez suggested. Sorry I wish I knew of a way to straighten a bent bandsaw blade.


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## TJ65 (Jan 19, 2010)

Thanks Mtnwild -" Each time I tell myself, Remember the last time, I thought you knew better! " 
I will have to remember that in future for myself. And I will certainly take your advice -
"You have to be totally involved with what you are doing and work smart. Chalk it up to experience, learn from it, move on. "

As for the TPI the 1/2inch was 6tpi, The 1/4 inch I think is more but not high.

It looks as tho from all these responses that I am not alone (thankfully) and well I will just have to be more vigilant and either flatten out the base or clamp it. 
So it looks as tho I will have to get some more 'new' blades then!!! :-(


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## rivergirl (Aug 18, 2010)

I have done the same thing on my teeny tiny bandsaw (4" clearance) cutting branches to make wooden buttons. I did it twice and each time it was because of rolling. Glad I don't have a big expensive blade to buy- but then again- that would mean I have a nice big expensive band saw…. hmmmmmmmmmmmmm


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## Gofor (Jan 12, 2008)

Theresa:

I will take two hard pieces of wood, (i.e white oak, purple heart, hard maple, pecan, etc) and squeeze the bent area between them (with the teeth above the wood edge so as not to ruin the set) in a vise to get it as straight as possible. On a large area, this would be at the start and end of the bend, so makes two operations. I then work it flat the remainder of the way by flattening any high areas with a hard wood "punch (actually a 1/2" or larger square piece) against a hardwood surface. Use a hammer or hardwood mallet, your choice. Again, put the punch behind the teeth. The narrower the punch, the less force you need striking it.

If it is really kinked, this may not work, and it will be weaker in that spot, but it has let me to continue using a few blades that were otherwise unusable. Sometimes I have had to do this on a "new" blade from the store, that has been mishandled (85 miles each way to return it costs more in gas than the blade is worth). You may get a bit of front-to-back movement on the blade after this, because the bend stretched the metal, and when you flatten it, it does not always fully compress back. However, most times it is minimal. (less than some stock blades with a slightly off weld).

Brass for the punch will also work. I do not use steel to steel, as if you strike it too hard, the blade will "squish out" and become a lot thinner at that point, which will weaken and distort it too much to safely use.

I have done this on 1/2" and 3/8" blades. I don't use 1/4" much so have not tried it on one that narrow.

Hope this helps

Go


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

Have you given any thought to a vee block? Just make a little 90 degree trough that the branch will fit in and mount it in a couple of vee notched bits of plywood and you can bandsaw rounds off branches all day long. if there's any kink at all in the branch and you hold it down it won't be able to move at all. No clamps required and you won't have to deal with a "flat spot" on each of your pieces.


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## RalphBarker (Oct 26, 2010)

FWIW, the rule of thumb, as I recall, regarding blade TPI is to have 3 teeth in the stock. So, for small stock, a fairly fine-toothed blade may be required to achieve that. Then, it's a matter of balance between rate of feed and the blade being able to clear the gullets.

I agree with the other suggestions of devising a method to keep the stock being cut stable. I like the hand-screw clamps, too, and V-block jaws can be added temporarily with masking tape.


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## rivergirl (Aug 18, 2010)

That's a good idea shipwright.. I use a v-block for my big logs- so why not a wee one for the little branches? Thanks for the tip!


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## DanCo (Jun 19, 2010)

I don't know if it is available to you, but I take my blades to a guy that sharpens knives and saw blades. I brought my kinked bandsaw blade and he straitened it up like it was new. I also recommend using a sled, it does help save the blade. Good luck.


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## TJ65 (Jan 19, 2010)

Gofor- Thanks for all the info about staightening the thing, will def give it a try at the very least.
What a great idea shipwright, a v- groove. I like that idea as I could then use it for other smaller branches as well.
Daniel- I think they charge just as much for a new blade as they do to get one sharpened dont know about straightened tho. *Whats a sled?*


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## meme (May 27, 2010)

UGH! I finally bought a good band saw blade and bent it shortly after!!!! I could scream because I love that blade. It cut the wood like butter on my band saw box drawers.

Do i have to throw it away or can i keep using it? It seems to work but makes a funny clicky sound.


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## RalphBarker (Oct 26, 2010)

Kathy - the clicky sound is probably the kink/bend passing through the guide bearings. Thus, it means the blade is putting extra wear/tear on the bearings. It would be better to either get the blade repaired or replace it.


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## TJ65 (Jan 19, 2010)

Kathy I am Soooooooo glad to hear that I'm not the only one doing these (stupid) things!!!!!
listen to Ralph, If it is a decent machine which usually means $$$ then it is way cheaper to replace the blade now then the bits or worse the machine later!


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

Theresa, over the years I;ve done it many times. I just change my shorts and go back to where I was.
V cradle when I remember and then it dont happen.
Then I get slack, forget and do it again without.

Jamie


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## meme (May 27, 2010)

Bummer. How does one explain this sort of thing to the spouse??? Maybe I will try to just sort of "sneak" another blade in. Think that will work?


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## TJ65 (Jan 19, 2010)

Hey Kathy just say you need to take this one to get staightened and come back with a new one. He would be none the wiser! ;-)
It's not like you are spending it on shoes or something- this is far more useful!!!!!


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

if you were to use a good pair of high heels for the punch then you could get the blade fixed, and then have the need to get new heels…taking care of two things at once…seems practical to me…lol…good idea or not…grizz


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## TJ65 (Jan 19, 2010)

There goes the safety in the workshop idea grizz!!! 
Dont you know anything, we dont wear high heels in the shop, just our Aussie workboots! (degoose posted this a while ago!) :-0


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## meme (May 27, 2010)

OOOO I likes those shoes! I can't imagine I am going to find someone to fix my blade. Dang it all anyway, I don't even know what happened to the darn thing.


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## jackass (Mar 26, 2008)

*I did the same thing yesterday, I was fortunate to not have ruined the blade. When I thought about it, and considered the many cuts I was doing, I got complacent with the repetative action of cutting 10 1" pieces by 3" inches in diameter and began pushing the stick with my right hand at a quicker rate than the saw could handle. Obviously the wood then twists and catches and binds the blade. I guess you have to let it cut and not get ahead of it.
Jack*


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## www2b (9 mo ago)

Well this is an old thread but at least I know why I just ruined my new blade. Nobody had a good fix. Guess I will have to order another one. Anyway, that was really scary. I had a small block of wood about 6" wide I was going to use to practice turning a bowl. Well the worm screw fell out so I was going to cut off about an inch off the block and try again. With a smaller drill bit. I don't know what happened. The wood got flung at my belly and several fingertips and my thumb are sore. Little blue spot on my thumb. I knew I did something stupid, I wasn't using a fence. Just free handing the piece of oak thru the 3/8" blade. I guess it must have turned like everyone is saying. But now there is a spot on my blade that is bent. I'm disgusted. I quit and came in the house.


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

A catch while cutting a round piece on a band saw can also pull your fingers towards the blade. If you do that sort of cutting often you might work out how to make a jig that holds and cradles the "round" pieces your are cutting.

I have a couple of blades like that. I keep them around for rough cutting work. A saw shop might be able to repair it but that is probably as much as a new blade.


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