# Sewing Center



## SouthpawCA (Jul 19, 2009)

*The Sewing Center in Progress*

I decided to try and take on bigger and more intricate projects. My wife wanted a sewing cabinet for all her sewing supplies, including the sewing machine, which are now kept in a bin in the garage. Each time she wanted to sew something, I had to get the bin in from the garage and she would have to dig through all the stuff and eventually she'd start her project.

I decided to make it out of poplar for a couple of reasons. First - she wanted to try painting it with some decorative design. Second - if it was a total failure on my part I wouldn't have spent a whole bunch of money on more firewood.

Then came the "this is nice but …" moment. I found some plans on the Wood Magazine website that looked good. However, she had a few changes - she wanted/needed the depth of the cabinet to fit her machine. She also wanted the cabinet to be multifunctional which eliminated the sewing machine lift. She also wanted the cabinet to look good from all sides and she wanted it to be an arts and crafts look. I was OK with her not wanting the fancy lift, especially, if I did screw it up I wouldn't be stuck with that thing staring at me for the rest of my life. But just adding a few inches to the depth totally made the plans just a guide. I had never really made anything "on the fly" like that.

So, here's where I am so far:









This is the front. It pretty much looks like the plans except for the locking casters which was another change. This cabinet needs to roll around. The drawers were a challenge because they are all different sizes.









This is a side. The plans called for just plain plywood sides. As you can see they are now mission style. The inserts are 1/4" MDF.









This is the back. I had a piece of 3/8" oak ply that I used on the back. To get that mission look I just planed down a few pieces for the muntins and glued them to be flush with the plywood. It would have looked dumb from the front, inside the kneehole, to see off center muntins.









Another change. She wanted full extension drawers. The plans called for wood guides and then matching dados on the drawers. It took a bit of measuring, but all worked out fine. I purchased a joinery system from Woodline USA a few years back and never used it. It's called the Router-R-Joint and it worked very nice. I'll be using it again.









This is a look inside of the drawer. My wife is a watercolor artist. We have a lot of these panels from the back of frames that she can't use with her art. They are 1/8" thick hardboard. I knew I'd find a use for them.









The sewing machine will sit on the slide out tray.









I just finished the doors today. I think they look pretty cool. The best part-- they are square and flat!!!


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

SouthpawCA said:


> *The Sewing Center in Progress*
> 
> I decided to try and take on bigger and more intricate projects. My wife wanted a sewing cabinet for all her sewing supplies, including the sewing machine, which are now kept in a bin in the garage. Each time she wanted to sew something, I had to get the bin in from the garage and she would have to dig through all the stuff and eventually she'd start her project.
> 
> ...


Thats going to be a nice sewing cabinet.


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## same23 (Jul 27, 2009)

SouthpawCA said:


> *The Sewing Center in Progress*
> 
> I decided to try and take on bigger and more intricate projects. My wife wanted a sewing cabinet for all her sewing supplies, including the sewing machine, which are now kept in a bin in the garage. Each time she wanted to sew something, I had to get the bin in from the garage and she would have to dig through all the stuff and eventually she'd start her project.
> 
> ...


Was this a weekend Home Improvement project done in your spare time? This truly is going to be great looking cabinet.


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## Bureaucrat (May 26, 2008)

SouthpawCA said:


> *The Sewing Center in Progress*
> 
> I decided to try and take on bigger and more intricate projects. My wife wanted a sewing cabinet for all her sewing supplies, including the sewing machine, which are now kept in a bin in the garage. Each time she wanted to sew something, I had to get the bin in from the garage and she would have to dig through all the stuff and eventually she'd start her project.
> 
> ...


Nice looking. My wife is still trying to decide on the specs for this project at our house.


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

SouthpawCA said:


> *The Sewing Center in Progress*
> 
> I decided to try and take on bigger and more intricate projects. My wife wanted a sewing cabinet for all her sewing supplies, including the sewing machine, which are now kept in a bin in the garage. Each time she wanted to sew something, I had to get the bin in from the garage and she would have to dig through all the stuff and eventually she'd start her project.
> 
> ...


I'm impressed. Your blog started out sounding like you weren't quite certain of what you were doing, but the pictures tell a different story. Can't wait to see the completed project!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

SouthpawCA said:


> *The Sewing Center in Progress*
> 
> I decided to try and take on bigger and more intricate projects. My wife wanted a sewing cabinet for all her sewing supplies, including the sewing machine, which are now kept in a bin in the garage. Each time she wanted to sew something, I had to get the bin in from the garage and she would have to dig through all the stuff and eventually she'd start her project.
> 
> ...


great job looks super


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## japanesewoodworker (Jan 16, 2010)

SouthpawCA said:


> *The Sewing Center in Progress*
> 
> I decided to try and take on bigger and more intricate projects. My wife wanted a sewing cabinet for all her sewing supplies, including the sewing machine, which are now kept in a bin in the garage. Each time she wanted to sew something, I had to get the bin in from the garage and she would have to dig through all the stuff and eventually she'd start her project.
> 
> ...


This nice and simple.

You must "really" love your wife.


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## SouthpawCA (Jul 19, 2009)

*Stained Poplar using MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (yellow can)*

I didn't really listen and I should be spanked!!! I am now going to stain the sewing center. I knew I had to actually condition the wood because it is poplar. But instead of doing the 50/50 mix of shellac and denatured alcohol or as I read on a can of Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat (which is shellac) a 3 parts denatured alcohol to 2 parts SealCoat mix, I thought I save myself some time and just condition the poplar with MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (the yellow can - they also have a blue can for under water based stains).

NEVER EVER AGAIN WILL I USE MINWAX PRODUCTS!!!



You can see the streaking and blotching on the rail pieces. But, I thought it was strange when applying the wood conditioner, the rails seem to absorb more of the product then the stiles and muntin. I figured OK, I'll add more and waited a bit longer to allow it to soak in, but not longer than the 15 minutes suggested on the can. Well, you can see the result.







I do find it strange that MinWax states in step #3 "the stain should be applied within 2 hours of application of Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner." What happens after 2 hours???

To make matters worse (and where I need a good kick in the pants) - I tried it again on the other side!!! Again, I followed the directions TO THE LETTER and even added more coats of the product. But ended with the same result.

I have since removed all MinWax products from my shop.

Well, at least I get to now try out my new belt sander. Then re-do the conditioning and staining as suggested here on LJs and by woodworking instructors.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

SouthpawCA said:


> *Stained Poplar using MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (yellow can)*
> 
> I didn't really listen and I should be spanked!!! I am now going to stain the sewing center. I knew I had to actually condition the wood because it is poplar. But instead of doing the 50/50 mix of shellac and denatured alcohol or as I read on a can of Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat (which is shellac) a 3 parts denatured alcohol to 2 parts SealCoat mix, I thought I save myself some time and just condition the poplar with MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (the yellow can - they also have a blue can for under water based stains).
> 
> ...


1lb cut Shellac works fine instead of wood conditioner


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## Julian (Sep 30, 2008)

SouthpawCA said:


> *Stained Poplar using MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (yellow can)*
> 
> I didn't really listen and I should be spanked!!! I am now going to stain the sewing center. I knew I had to actually condition the wood because it is poplar. But instead of doing the 50/50 mix of shellac and denatured alcohol or as I read on a can of Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat (which is shellac) a 3 parts denatured alcohol to 2 parts SealCoat mix, I thought I save myself some time and just condition the poplar with MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (the yellow can - they also have a blue can for under water based stains).
> 
> ...


Minwax is crap, plain and simple. Sorry to hear about you learning it the hard way.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

SouthpawCA said:


> *Stained Poplar using MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (yellow can)*
> 
> I didn't really listen and I should be spanked!!! I am now going to stain the sewing center. I knew I had to actually condition the wood because it is poplar. But instead of doing the 50/50 mix of shellac and denatured alcohol or as I read on a can of Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat (which is shellac) a 3 parts denatured alcohol to 2 parts SealCoat mix, I thought I save myself some time and just condition the poplar with MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (the yellow can - they also have a blue can for under water based stains).
> 
> ...


I support Julian's sentiment. I use pro stains from Sherwin Williams or MLCampbells.

They handle better than Minwax when it comes to avoiding blotching.

What most people do not realize is that anybody can buy the same stains that I do.

Check with Sherwin Williams about their pro grade products or find and MLCampbell dealer in your area.

These stains dry in about 45 minutes or 2 hours depending on which product you buy.

If you are willing to go darker, you can use these stains over your project without sanding it down.

I use poplar as a remodeling contractor all the time and I can use stains to make it look like a more expensive wood. I do it all the time and recommend poplar as a great alternative to more expensive wood.


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## jlsmith5963 (Mar 26, 2009)

SouthpawCA said:


> *Stained Poplar using MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (yellow can)*
> 
> I didn't really listen and I should be spanked!!! I am now going to stain the sewing center. I knew I had to actually condition the wood because it is poplar. But instead of doing the 50/50 mix of shellac and denatured alcohol or as I read on a can of Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat (which is shellac) a 3 parts denatured alcohol to 2 parts SealCoat mix, I thought I save myself some time and just condition the poplar with MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (the yellow can - they also have a blue can for under water based stains).
> 
> ...


I don't remember where I saw it but one of the magazines did a test which included MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. As I recall the product preformed well when they *didn't* follow the can instructions and allowed the product to completely dry before applying the stain. Of course this makes sense and one can only wonder why MinWax has the instructions that it does.


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## jstegall (Oct 9, 2008)

SouthpawCA said:


> *Stained Poplar using MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (yellow can)*
> 
> I didn't really listen and I should be spanked!!! I am now going to stain the sewing center. I knew I had to actually condition the wood because it is poplar. But instead of doing the 50/50 mix of shellac and denatured alcohol or as I read on a can of Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat (which is shellac) a 3 parts denatured alcohol to 2 parts SealCoat mix, I thought I save myself some time and just condition the poplar with MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (the yellow can - they also have a blue can for under water based stains).
> 
> ...


If you have a piece of the same wood (that you made your rails from) try duplicating the problem and then play around with it. I do not know if you can bleach it after it has been treated (someone?), but try it. If you can get it to look like what you have, then maybe you can find a solution.


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## PineInTheAsh (Jun 14, 2009)

SouthpawCA said:


> *Stained Poplar using MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (yellow can)*
> 
> I didn't really listen and I should be spanked!!! I am now going to stain the sewing center. I knew I had to actually condition the wood because it is poplar. But instead of doing the 50/50 mix of shellac and denatured alcohol or as I read on a can of Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat (which is shellac) a 3 parts denatured alcohol to 2 parts SealCoat mix, I thought I save myself some time and just condition the poplar with MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (the yellow can - they also have a blue can for under water based stains).
> 
> ...


Finishing is a whole 'nother world.

You have to learn it and respect it.

How far do you really want to go?

For us here, Minwax is a proven product. I have used it for thirty years.

No one knows certain what a tree will actually yield. That's the beauty of woodworking.

Actually, just one of the beautiful secrets of nature, wood and woodworking.


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## Julian (Sep 30, 2008)

SouthpawCA said:


> *Stained Poplar using MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (yellow can)*
> 
> I didn't really listen and I should be spanked!!! I am now going to stain the sewing center. I knew I had to actually condition the wood because it is poplar. But instead of doing the 50/50 mix of shellac and denatured alcohol or as I read on a can of Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat (which is shellac) a 3 parts denatured alcohol to 2 parts SealCoat mix, I thought I save myself some time and just condition the poplar with MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (the yellow can - they also have a blue can for under water based stains).
> 
> ...


I don't know where your from, but all it took for me was to mess up one project with minwax brand stain to realize that there had to be a better way. Thankfully I had a Sherwin Williams store down the street. The salesmen were more than helpful in getting me on track with what products I should be using.


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## huff (May 28, 2009)

SouthpawCA said:


> *Stained Poplar using MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (yellow can)*
> 
> I didn't really listen and I should be spanked!!! I am now going to stain the sewing center. I knew I had to actually condition the wood because it is poplar. But instead of doing the 50/50 mix of shellac and denatured alcohol or as I read on a can of Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat (which is shellac) a 3 parts denatured alcohol to 2 parts SealCoat mix, I thought I save myself some time and just condition the poplar with MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (the yellow can - they also have a blue can for under water based stains).
> 
> ...


About the only time I use Minwax is when I have to try to match a stain a customer has used (usually Minwax) from one of the box stores. M.L. Campbell is owned by Sherwin Williams, so one or the other is usually available locally. I use M.L. Campbell products (stains, sealers, pre-catalyzed lacquers and white). 
I know it's frustrating, but don't feel too bad…....finishing is always a learning experience(just like woodworking), every time you thing you have it down pat, something will prove you wrong. Good luck and let us know how you make out.


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

SouthpawCA said:


> *Stained Poplar using MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (yellow can)*
> 
> I didn't really listen and I should be spanked!!! I am now going to stain the sewing center. I knew I had to actually condition the wood because it is poplar. But instead of doing the 50/50 mix of shellac and denatured alcohol or as I read on a can of Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat (which is shellac) a 3 parts denatured alcohol to 2 parts SealCoat mix, I thought I save myself some time and just condition the poplar with MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (the yellow can - they also have a blue can for under water based stains).
> 
> ...


FWIW: Sherwin-Williams owns Minwax.


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

SouthpawCA said:


> *Stained Poplar using MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (yellow can)*
> 
> I didn't really listen and I should be spanked!!! I am now going to stain the sewing center. I knew I had to actually condition the wood because it is poplar. But instead of doing the 50/50 mix of shellac and denatured alcohol or as I read on a can of Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat (which is shellac) a 3 parts denatured alcohol to 2 parts SealCoat mix, I thought I save myself some time and just condition the poplar with MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (the yellow can - they also have a blue can for under water based stains).
> 
> ...


Good point Randy. Also, I've had no problems with minwax in the past, as long as I use a few test pieces first and make sure I know what I'm about to be doing.


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## japanesewoodworker (Jan 16, 2010)

SouthpawCA said:


> *Stained Poplar using MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (yellow can)*
> 
> I didn't really listen and I should be spanked!!! I am now going to stain the sewing center. I knew I had to actually condition the wood because it is poplar. But instead of doing the 50/50 mix of shellac and denatured alcohol or as I read on a can of Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat (which is shellac) a 3 parts denatured alcohol to 2 parts SealCoat mix, I thought I save myself some time and just condition the poplar with MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (the yellow can - they also have a blue can for under water based stains).
> 
> ...


Did you know that Warren Buffett owns Sherwin Williams.

(aka… the Oracle of Omaha…. based on this I have another name for him that begins with "O"...)

What is wrong with the United States, Mister President ? ....where shall I start….


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## SouthpawCA (Jul 19, 2009)

*"Stained" Poplar*

I tried a number of different applications that would enable me to stain the poplar on the sewing cabinet. None really worked all that well. I sanded the doors down to bare wood and was ready to call it quits and paint it like I had intended in the first place. That's when I stumbled upon the bottle of TransTint Reddish Brown #6003 that I had left over from a project a few months ago. I figured I might give that a try. I mixed the TransTint into a quart of Varathane WATERBASED poly. The TransTint will not mix into oil based products. I also added an oz. of Floetrol to help diminish any brush marks. Once I got the mixture to the color that I liked I brushed it on a large piece of scrap poplar that included everything from the green to the almost white of poplar. There was absolutely no blotching! The color was a bit pale so I added more Transtint. Total Transtint ended up to be about 1/2 oz.


This was the piece that looked so terrible before.


A closer view.


Another view of a different rail.


Last view. NOTE: the panels are going to be painted some artistic paint application, but not by me.

With the addition of multiple coats of the now tinted poly the color did get slightly darker with each coat. It doesn't show very well here, but after 4 coats the color turned out to be a light cherry which is what I was aiming for initially.

The Floetrol indicated that the sheen may be reduced, however, I started out with a semi-gloss poly and it pretty much stayed semi-gloss. I was thinking if it did loose the gloss I would have added one final coat of plain poly.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

SouthpawCA said:


> *"Stained" Poplar*
> 
> I tried a number of different applications that would enable me to stain the poplar on the sewing cabinet. None really worked all that well. I sanded the doors down to bare wood and was ready to call it quits and paint it like I had intended in the first place. That's when I stumbled upon the bottle of TransTint Reddish Brown #6003 that I had left over from a project a few months ago. I figured I might give that a try. I mixed the TransTint into a quart of Varathane WATERBASED poly. The TransTint will not mix into oil based products. I also added an oz. of Floetrol to help diminish any brush marks. Once I got the mixture to the color that I liked I brushed it on a large piece of scrap poplar that included everything from the green to the almost white of poplar. There was absolutely no blotching! The color was a bit pale so I added more Transtint. Total Transtint ended up to be about 1/2 oz.
> 
> ...


Don, that looks pretty good. Poplar can be a challenge to stain. And good idea on the poly as well. The finish will take on the sheen of the final application so if you want a gloss appearance then the final topcoat with a gloss poly should do the trick.


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## jockmike2 (Oct 10, 2006)

SouthpawCA said:


> *"Stained" Poplar*
> 
> I tried a number of different applications that would enable me to stain the poplar on the sewing cabinet. None really worked all that well. I sanded the doors down to bare wood and was ready to call it quits and paint it like I had intended in the first place. That's when I stumbled upon the bottle of TransTint Reddish Brown #6003 that I had left over from a project a few months ago. I figured I might give that a try. I mixed the TransTint into a quart of Varathane WATERBASED poly. The TransTint will not mix into oil based products. I also added an oz. of Floetrol to help diminish any brush marks. Once I got the mixture to the color that I liked I brushed it on a large piece of scrap poplar that included everything from the green to the almost white of poplar. There was absolutely no blotching! The color was a bit pale so I added more Transtint. Total Transtint ended up to be about 1/2 oz.
> 
> ...


Nice color lucky, very nice.


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## SouthpawCA (Jul 19, 2009)

*Finished Just in Time*

OK … so all the trials I had with the finish have been overcome. However, next time I do anything with poplar I'm going to use milk paint.

All in all it turned out pretty nice and it is being used already. Here is a pic of the finished project. More will be added to the Projects page.


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