# Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan



## dewoodwork

*Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*

Construct these beautiful end grain
Cutting boards

Hello fellow woodworkers,
In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.


For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.


White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.


Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut


Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.

What you will need
Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=

Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult. 
Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.



Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.

Before getting started
Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.

Milling and cutting your stock
Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.



Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.



Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)



Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.



Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.



I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.

Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.



Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.



Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.



Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.



Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.



Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.

Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.



Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.



To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.



Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.



Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.

Seal the boards
Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.

A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards

Why end grain?

There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.

Use and care of your end grain
Cutting board

Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking. 
Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.

I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


----------



## DanYo

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


well done blog, easy to follow and beautiful work !


----------



## Max

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Very well done. I am making this one of my favorites so I can get a couple of these made. This is a nice and easy to follow blog. Thanks


----------



## cajunpen

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Thanks Dewayne for the excellent tutorial - almost makes it sound easy. You did a great job of explaining the process.


----------



## mot

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Fantastic! Very generous of you to provide the instruction. Thank you!


----------



## Radish

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Wonderful end product and blog, DeWayne. That predominately oak one is very stunning. Thanks.


----------



## MsDebbieP

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


excellent plans. Thank you.


----------



## mrtrim

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


awsome project and great tutorial however i see one step not covered ! how do you get up the nerve to draw a knife across it when its finished ? well done !


----------



## rjack

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Nice project and excellent instructions! You should write articles for woodworking magazines.


----------



## pmf2000

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


You've done a fantastic job of describing your processes! I can't wait to see what you write about next.


----------



## oscorner

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Excellent job! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and techniques.


----------



## Karson

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Dewayne: Thanks for the tutorial. You might say take a digital picture of the stack. so that when you start assembling it you have a reference to go by if it tumbles down.

Thanks for the instructions.


----------



## SPalm

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Thanks. You do nice work, and to document it so well is just superb.

Steve


----------



## LeeJ

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Dewayne;

Sorry I missed this before. I guess the e-mag is a good idea, because without it I would have never seen it.

These are beautiful cutting boards, and you tutorial is very well done. I think even I could make one of these now.

Lee


----------



## bbrooks

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Glad this one came around again. Beautiful cutting boards and great tutorial. Well done.


----------



## moshel

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Thanks for the useful tutorial and the patterns! I use tung oil (which is also food safe) for finish. it dries up completely (unlike mineral oil) and gives the wood more depth and strength.


----------



## nyc

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


hi dewayne, your boards are beautiful. I am interested in buying ( not making) 2 boards 9 X 24 7/8 X 1 3/8. where can I buy them and how much would they be?


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Nice way to make cutting boards, Dewayne.


----------



## Brad_Nailor

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


i cant see any of the pictures


----------



## a1Jim

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Very compete and detailed end grain board blog, beautiful boards.


----------



## Brad_Nailor

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Ahhh thats better…nice boards…cool how too..


----------



## matt1970

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


that is a great demo…thank you…going in my favorites…


----------



## degoose

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Fantastic tute, so succinct.


----------



## Griffindork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Holy Cow, I think I can do this. GREAT TUTORIAL.


----------



## Rautenbach

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Your boards are truly a work of art very well made


----------



## aflixa

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Nice job, well done.


----------



## aussiechippie

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Just about to start and the pictures are gone!


----------



## cooperjk55

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


hmm I am in the same position as Aussie Chippie. I have found some other people who have the same style board but no own with these insturctions. Does anyone have this downloaded perhaps?


----------



## joew

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


I save it before and went back to look at it and no pictures now.


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Hurray!!! the photos are back! Gentlemen start your table saws. Sorry about the photos disappearing. Seems village photos was having a problem. I will be happy to email the photos if they are not available in the future.


----------



## cooperjk55

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Thank you so much!!!


----------



## Ken90712

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Very helpful, Thx for sharing. Looking fwd to making them.


----------



## aflixa

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Great job, Thanks for sharing


----------



## Timbo

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" .  I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Dewoodwork,
I'm going to give this a try, but a little confused on the color of Lyptus. Is Lyptus the green colored wood? I stopped off at lumber supplier today and they said Lyptus has a pink color. Please shed some light on the Green wood you used and where did you found it?


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Hi Timbo, The green wood is actually walnut. The finish, lighting and photography plays tricks with the true color. The lyptus does have a pink or peach color and has interesting end grain that is tight and well suited for cutting boards. The wood species are named at the top of each photo. Good luck with the project and if you have any other questions feel free to message me.


----------



## sras

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Excellent tutorial! Did you ever guess that two years later there would still be people learning from what you wrote? I hope to make one of these (or many) someday. Thanks for your help.


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


What truly amazes me is that the project plan now has almost 20,000 reads. I plan to leave it here for as long as possible.


----------



## TimGW

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Thanks for the tutorial I have saved this blog for my use


----------



## stefang

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


A really good blog. Thanks for sharing your know-how.


----------



## russ777

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Outstanding instructions and photos! Thanks dewoodwork!

After having completed my own, here are some (hopefully helpful) comments:

I used Excel to design my layout. I did several designs then did several variations of some of them.

Woods I used were hard maple, Peruvian black walnut, purpleheart, and bloodwood.

My selected layout included bloodwood adjacent to Peruvian black walnut. Both are dark and similar enough that they are not distinct from each other as I expected from the layout. In other words the pattern scheme was not as prominent as planned.

I used two boards for the hard maple pieces. Mistake! They look a bit different in the final piece.

My planer is an expensive portable and consequently I could not mill the strips to the "exact same thickness" that dewoodwork describes. The final glueup suffered and resulted in the lines in the pattern not matching up perfectly.

When cutting and after cutting the 1 3/8" strips off the first glueup, handle the strips very carefully since they are fragile and can separate at the glue joints.

Upon completion of the final glueup, I then glued a ½ inch thick oak temporary strip to two sides. These strips are the leading and trailing edges for running through the planer to prevent tearout of the endgrain on those edges.

After planning the endgrain, these ½ inch strips are cut off on the table saw using a cross cut table.

Dewoodwork mentioned adjusting the planer depth 1/8 turn after each cut. I did about 1/32 turn (0.002 inch/0.05 mm) and made multiple passes before making the next depth adjustment. (Maybe this was because of my cheap planer.)

Then I rounded all edges with a ¼ inch round over router bit. (This results in a bit more final flat cutting surface than using the ¾ inch round over bit in dewoodwork's instructions.)

My final feature was a handmade wood handle doweled into one side for hanging and handling.

This was my first attempt at working endgrain and very close tolerances on a planer. I learned a lot! Afterwards I admire dewoodwork's instructions and craftsmanship even more!

Hope this helps you accomplish a successful prefect project. Let me know if it helps and if you have comments.


----------



## PetVet

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


I've made several of these, and I still got useful information from your blog. Well done, and thanks!


----------



## deon

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Gratefull for the tutorial. Very usefull.


----------



## RvK

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Awesome!


----------



## michiganmark

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


I just did the math for making the boards as you described….almost 30 board feet of lumber! Good job with the description, I just need to get more wood


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


I am very pleased to see so many have made use of my tutorial. I enjoy reading you comments and any tips you have to offer makes the plan that much better. I'd love to see everyone's version of the boards, feel free to post your version of the boards here or send me a pm


----------



## ElmoSr

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


all i can say is DITTO to the other guys ,,,these boards are beautiful and the tutorial is very welcome,,,i am just now getting into cutting boards and all i have done so far is the regular kind, although i have branched out into three different woods. but these pages inspire me.

Thank you


----------



## lennyv

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


I tried using bees wax on my cutting board but I'm not sure if I'm doing it properly. When I pour it on it hardens almost immediately and I end up scraping it off. Is there a different way of doing this or is this the way it is done.

lennyv


----------



## LoneTreeCreations

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Beautiful work. I'm asking Santa for a planer for Christmas for sure.


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Lennyv, What you want is a bees wax food safe salad bowl finish. There are several to choose from. Here is One I would recommend. Claphams-Beeswax-870-3008-Finish


----------



## JoeWoodnut

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Lenny,
I also had the same problem when I first started. I melted beeswax and poured it on the board only to have it harden immediately. I thought maybe it was because the board was too cool, so I preheated it in the oven to make it slightly warm and then waxed it. That did not go well. It did allow the wax to soak in but I noticed all the glue joints were slightly proud of the surface of the wood. Turns out, the wood dried and shrank while the glue did not. It was easy enough to scrape the raised glue lines down but I did not like the whole idea and process. So here is what I came up with and it works great.
I get a jelly jar and gently heat up some mineral oil in it. Then I add chunks of beeswax to it. The ratio of oil to beeswax is about 3 to 1. The hot oil melts the beeswax as you stir it. Once it cools, it becomes cloudy and is about the consistency of peanut butter or vaseline. I DO NOT USE THIS AS MY PRIMARY COATING.
Primary coating- I "season" new boards with generous coats of plain mineral oil, pouring it on and working it in with my hands over a few days. I elevate the boards while the oil soaks in on little plastic triangles I got at the home center so that both sides can soak up the oil evenly. After the absorbtion rate slows and the wood seems mostly saturated, I switch to the oil/beeswax mixture.
When I give away or sell one of these boards, I include a small jar of the oil/beeswax mixture and a sheet of printed instructions on "care and feeding" of the board. Folks appreciate the little extra freebee and it smells good too.
Joe
Mineral Oil can be purchased at any pharmacy or WalMart type store.
I get my beeswax at Ace Hardware. It is a lot cheaper there than at Woodcraft and it comes in hockey puck-sized disks.


----------



## BarbS

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


DeWayne- thanks so much for the tutorial. I like seeing instructions for making multiples of the project, too.


----------



## BigTiny

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Hi DeWayne.

I'd love to do some of these as both the wife aznd I are nuts about celtic work.
Problem is, no jointer and no planer. Any suggestions?


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Hi Big Tiny,

Without a jointer and plainer you would be quite disappointed with the resulting boards. To achieve a decent looking pattern, precise and consistent thickness is key. You may be able to get close using pre-surfaced stock and precise cuts at the table saw. But then there's the dilemma of flattening the first set of glueups in preparation for he final glueup.


----------



## BigTiny

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


I'm thinking of laminating the pieces ro a plywood substrate to solve the flat on the bottom issue, with a solid border to conceal the ply.
Also, SketchUp is an excellent design tool for these things, and any other woodwork project. It's FREE and is available from Google.
How would a router work for flattening the sets of glue ups? Use a router sled and a pair of parallel guides?


----------



## YNC

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


I can't see the pictures. What's the trick? Thanks in advance for your help. Rex


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Rex, it seems that if I don't log in to my photo share acct. once in a while they will not appear. I took care of it. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Dewayne


----------



## lanwater

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Thank you for sharing your knowlegde. Great blog.


----------



## LittleAl

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


The boards look great. One question though, I thought I've heard that running end grain boards through a planer can cause some serious problems (breaking apart and eating huge chunks of board). Is this true or just one of those myths that hang around?

Thanks again.


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


LittleAl, Great care needs to be taken when running end grain boards threw the plainer. As stated in the tutorial I round over the edges of the boards before plaining and take very lite passes with new or newly sharpened knives. I don't even want to think about what would happen if any of these steps are neglected.


----------



## Dusty56

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Thank you very much !!


----------



## rrdesigns

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


This blog entry is still alive and well and much appreciated. Can't wait to get started…if only my table saw hadn't quit on me. I better hurry up and choose its replacement!


----------



## nancyn

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Can I see the pictures? 
Nancy
[email protected]


----------



## lank

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


I just finished a couple of cutting boards based on the "Wood Whisperer" instructions and I've decided to try my hand at one of these beautiful designs. Firstly I'll echo the others who have thanked Dewayne for a great instructional blog.

I'm a little concerned about the amount of gluing steps involved in making these boards. I only have one set of good Bessey K Body parallel clamps (similar to what I see in the instructional pictures) and unless I'm missing something it looks like it will take many days to complete the glue-ups. I'm used to putting the pieces in the clamp and letting it sit overnight to completely cure. Obviously this can't be how you guys are doing it or you would need 30-40 days to complete the project.

Would appreciate comments from folks who have built these as to how they went about the glue-up process.

Thanks,

Phil-Lake Conroe, Texas


----------



## nancyn

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Can someone send me the instructions with the pics. I can not see them. I don't know why.


----------



## lank

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Nancy-

I just sent you a file with the instructions.

Phil


----------



## ClayandNancy

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Same here Phil can't see the pics. [email protected]


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Photos are back up folks, Sorry for the inconvenience.

Phil, about 40 minutes in the clamps will do as long as the joints are not stressed within 24 hours. I glue up a few rows at a time to reduce slippage and keep the pattern lines straight.

Dewayne


----------



## Holy_Bolt

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Thank you for sharing this info…it is awesome. I have to admit, I'm having some problems duplicating your results. I'm not a novice woodworker, but the precision needed to make these beautiful boards is not something I've dealt with before. I find it very difficult to get each row exactly the same width…I get slight offsets. I have the same planner as you have, I also have a very nice Jet drum sander, but I found the planner to be more repeatable. I still can't get perfect rows after my first glue up. Do you have any additional tips on how to manage the variability in thickness and the glue-up process? I tend to be a perfectioness, but if you pics are a representative of what can be done….I'm not there yet.


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Holy_Bolt,
I feel your frustration. Truth be known my boards aren't quite perfect either, but they they must be very close or they just wont be as pleasing to the eye. I had the same problems with my first boards. As I said thickness is key. Mill all your stock at the same time and setting. Check your work with dial calipers. Make extras so unsatisfactory pieces can be eliminated. Watch your clamping pressure, try to be consistent. Check pattern alignment before final glue up. Don't worry about uneven edges of the final board as they will be trimmed off. If the alignment is off be lust a few millimeters then you're being too critical of your work and you are likely the only one who will notice.

We can talk over the phone if you like, send me a pm with you # and a good time to call. I'll need to know what state you are in as well. Hope this helped.


----------



## Holy_Bolt

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Hey dewoodwork,

I really appreciate your feedback. I'm not more than 1 millimeter off, but it is too many times per board…three or four times. I would like to talk with you, but I can't send you a PM until I post more often…If I understand the forum correctly, I must post five times before I can send a message. I live in Oregon, and I would be gald to pick up the cost of a call, so maybe we should reverse this…if you are willing to talk about this project give me a PM with your numbers…you are doing me the favor, I should bear the cost. I'm also interested in you expertise around another cutting board I have seen for sale on the internet.

I'm new to this forum, so I may be totally clueless to the rules.


----------



## pinrestore

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Hi Dewoodwork,
I'm right in the middle of building 6 boards from your design and the pictures have gone offline. If you can get them back up I'll greatly appreciate it.

I'm building mine with black walnut from my Father-in-law's tree. It had to be taken down during some county drainage work so I got them to cut it to log length. They were just about to make firewood out of it! I then had it rough sawn and it's been drying in my barn for 2 summers. Pa has passed away since then and I'm making a set of these boards to give to family members as a remembrance. I can't tell you how much I value these plans and your comments as I probably wouldn't have done this without them.


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Sorry, If I don't visit my photo share often enough the photos go off line. They should be back up now.


----------



## atchison32

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Great work! Thanks for posting the photos/


----------



## pinrestore

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Perfect, Thanks!


----------



## gr8hrnowl

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Hi,
I love this cutting board design and am hoping to get brave enough to try it. I am a total beginner, so even though your directions are very well written, I really need the pictures which seem to have disappeared again. If you could repost them or email them to me, I would greatly appreciate it. Also, do you have a recommendation for a good place to buy the nice quality wood that you used for this? Thank you so much.


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


More problems with my photo share site….AARRRRGH! The photos can be seen here. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bakersdzn/sets/72157627948882748/detail/

They are not in proper order but I have descriptions for each pic to help piece things together. I will change the image tags in the plan when I find the time. Sorry for the inconvenience.


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


"do you have a recommendation for a good place to buy the nice quality wood that you used for this?"

You will need to find a hardwood supplier near you. Check the yellow pages for "hardwoods retailers."

I travel about 50 miles for mine and well worth the trip.


----------



## sawedoff

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


I am so glad I found this! I had no idea how to make these awesome cutting boards. Thanks so much for taking the time to post.

Tyson


----------



## Dusty56

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


I came back for another peek at these beauties, Maybe I'll get brave enough to give it a go this year : )
Thanks for all of the great info and photos and especially for sharing your knowledge and time with us.!!


----------



## Vii

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


I'm a noob wood worker and I'm looking forward to making some of these, I have a plainer but not a jointer some posted something about a plainer sled and something else and I was wondering if they would elaborate on that as that's what's holding me back from undertaking this project please let me know thanx. And last these are amazing and a true work of art congrats


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Vii, Have you tried a GOOGLE search for "plainer sled" ? I'm sure there is much to be read. I have not researched the matter but it can work if exicuted correctly. I would consider a plainer for your next woodworking investment as it one of the key woodworking tools for quality work.


----------



## woodmuse

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


I am joining the numbers of those who say thank you and saying how much I greatly appreciate your work, and your putting together and posting of this tutorial.

This has to be the best thing since sliced bread (or whatever else you care to use your board for)..!! 

I am a much better woodturner than I am a 'flat worker', but I believe even I can follow your well put together instructions.

I have been a member of LJ for a while now, but not a frequent visitor. Just seems that everytime I go looking for 'how-to' something, the best instructions I find are here are LumberJocks. I am thinking I need to hang around more, and maybe find a way to pay back for the excellent information I have gained from LJ's..!

Thanks again.


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Woodmouse, You are quite welcome and thank you for your gratious comment. It makes me feel good to have inspired so many. This is my motovation for writing and posting the tutorial.


----------



## JonH

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


I must say you are very brave to run an end grain cutting board through a planer. I would never do that with my students, or by myself for that matter. We use a radial arm saw raised up to flatten rough sides and then a drum sander we made to flatten them the rest of the way. We then vibrate sand them, then mineral oil them up.


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


JohnH,

I have a drum sander and tried that first and found it very time intensive and left burn marks on much of the surface. Pre flattening the boards with hand tools, rounding the edges, new sharp knives and very light passes is the key.


----------



## TooTallTommyT

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


These are absolutely gorgeous!! I want to do something similar and have found all the wood I need EXCEPT the green colored wood. You list the wood as Lyptus, but nothing I find even come comes close. Are you using sap wood or what? Keep up the good work and I look forward to any response.

Thanks,

Thomas.


----------



## Dusty56

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


*TTTT* , Time for a new monitor…there's no green wood in the cutting boards : ) 
Lyptus resembles Cherry in color : )


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Thomas,
Thanks for he complement and sorry for the delayed reply, As Dusty56 states, there is no green wood, The wood is actually walnut. The florescent lights in my shop and the oil finish play tricks on the eye and camera. The walnut wood is the ritch brown cloror you would expect in person.


----------



## grenger

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Is this a good idea?
you pass the board ENDGRAIN side on the planer. I keep seeing on other sites that this is very dangerous. That you can damage the planer or hut youself.

VERY NICE BOARDS


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Gerry, I won't admit plaining end grain is a "good idea" but it saves a lot of time and produces a nice flat even surface. I tried belt sanding as well as my performax drum sander. Belt sanding is very labor intensive and can produce a uneven surface. The drum sander took many, many passes and left burn marks that took even more time to remove. I made 12 boards all in one batch and had excellent results using my plainer. Following the steps I outlined in this tutorial is a must or the results will be disastrous.


----------



## designeratheart

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Amazingly beautiful!! I am just getting started in woodworking, so please forgive me if I ask what should be known. I would love to make a simpler version of these as christmas gifts. Is there a way to do this without a joiner and a planer? I am hoping to have the table saw at the end of the month, but the other two items are not in my forseeable future. I would love some advise, if you have some time, of course. Thank Yuri ou in advance for anything you can offer.

Sandi


----------



## dewoodwork

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Sandi,

First of all thank you for the complement. I can't imagine attempting this project without a jointer and plainer. Since precise thickness is key to getting great results in creating the pattern. I think you will be disappointed with the finished project. I would recommend setting this project plan aside until you have the necessary tools.


----------



## ElmoSr

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


you can run end grain with no problems if you round the edges so you git no blow outs and take small passes,,,designeratheart--if you have a router you can make a jig for the router and plane with that, i will look for a pic and try to remember where i need to post--LOL


----------



## JC_WW

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Man, I wish I had found this before I made my cutting board. Very informative.


----------



## stmunster

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Fantastic work and very well written out to us.


----------



## littleladywoodshop

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Very nice. A lot of glueing but worth the time


----------



## Birdhouse

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Beautiful boards and thanks for the knowledge.


----------



## dumbo

dewoodwork said:


> *Beautiful end grain cutting boards free project plan*
> 
> Construct these beautiful end grain
> Cutting boards
> 
> Hello fellow woodworkers,
> In the spirit of sharing woodworking knowledge I am writing this tutorial for anyone interested in constructing these beautiful end grain cutting boards. Take a look at the photos of the four styles I have made, or create your own pattern's and follow the steps I have outlined in this tutorial. Questions and comments are welcome, enjoy.
> 
> 
> For this board I used maple, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> White oak, walnut, lyptus and purpleheart.
> 
> 
> Maple, blood wood, purpleheart and walnut
> 
> 
> Maple, walnut, purpleheart and blood wood.
> 
> What you will need
> Tools I used are table saw with cross cut sled, 6" jointer, 13" plainer, chop saw, band saw, router table with ¾" round over bit # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander, disc sander random orbit sander and clamps.
> Supplies used are 4/4 hardwood stock of multiple species, Tightbond 3 glue, Mineral oil, paper towels or painters rags and bees wax finish for a optional protective top coat. Available here. http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=215808&Category_Code=
> 
> Creating your own pattern is as easy as laying out a grid of equal size squares that is 17×17 squares. Each square is ¾" x ¾'. The finished boards will measure 12 ¾" x 12 ¾" x 1 ¼" thick. I designed my patterns using "paint" program on my computer. Or use a cad program that allows color fill. Grid paper with color pencils will work too but making changes is difficult.
> Here's a sample of one of my "paint" patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you have decided on a pattern count the squares of each color representing the desired wood species in ½ of the pattern plus the center row . Figure on one board foot of stock for each 10 squares. This plan will yield three identical boards. The individual pieces of stock are cut to 10" long primarily for the purpose of milling the stock as you cant run small 1 ½" or 3" pieces of stock threw the plainer. Look closer at the pattern and you'll see that the top half is a mirror image of the bottom half that has been flipped left to right. There fore you only need to create pieces for half of the pattern. The center row does not repeat but the work pieces are the same length and there will be some waste from the un used glued up strips. Or create pieces for the entire pattern to make 6 identical boards.
> 
> Before getting started
> Before getting started check the condition of your jointer and plainer knives. You will be working with dense woods and tear out can cause small voids in the cutting board surface. Changing plainer knives mid project can cause problems. If there is just a slight variance in stock thickness the patterns will not align correctly.
> 
> Milling and cutting your stock
> Begin by rough cutting your stock to lengths of 10" Mill the pieces by flattening one face at the jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> Now run the pieces threw the plainer milling them to ¾" . I recommend checking each piece with a dial caliper to confirm they are the exact same thickness. This is important for proper pattern alignment in the final glue up stage. Detecting a thickness problem now will save you much aggravation and disappointment later.
> 
> 
> 
> Next joint one edge on the work pieces and rip strips 7/8" wide at the table saw. ( TIP: laying the pieces on a piece of plywood makes transporting them to your work bench a snap.)
> 
> 
> 
> Once all the pieces required to create your pattern are ripped you're ready to lay them out in the order they will be glued up in. Using your pattern as a guide lay the pieces out row by row one on top of the other with the ¾" milled faces vertical and facing each other as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> Try to orient the grain direction of each piece the same for the purpose of tear out free plaining after they are glued up.
> Remember you only have to complete half of the pattern plus the center row to make three boards. Each glued up row will be milled to ¾" later.
> When your sure the rows of stock are in the correct order glue them up one row at a time keeping them in the same order. I lay the pieces on their sides except for the first one and spread a generous amount of glue with a roller on one side only. Rotate and assemble the pieces applying good even clamping pressure. Consistent clamping pressure is important or the pattern may not align correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend wiping off the squeeze out now with a damp rag to save scraping labor later.
> 
> Once the glue up's have cured remove them from the clamps and scrape and plain one side reasonably flat in preparation for milling.
> 
> 
> 
> Now mill the glued up sections to ¾". Be sure to pay attention to grain direction and alternate sides to ensure both faces are flattened.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a cross cut sled at the table saw trim one end of each glue up. Then set the fence to 1 3/8" and cross cut each glue up into 6 pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the moment of truth. Lay out the pieces in order using your pattern as a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> Carefully align the lines of the pattern and make sure things look good. If there are any alignment problems this is the time to correct it. This means creating a new glue up for the problem row or rows. If the proper steps where taken to check the thickness of the milled stock there shouldn't be a problem.
> Now you're ready to glue up your boards. The glue up procedure is the same as before. Glue up only 5 or 6 rows at a time to prevent slippage and alignment problems. Press each glue covered piece firmly in place paying strict attention to pattern alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Gradually add clamping pressure checking for slippage as you go. Wipe the squeeze out for better pattern visibility. Allow the glue to set up before repeating the glue up process until the board is complete.
> 
> Remove the board from the clamps and flatten one or both faces with a # 80 cabinet scraper or belt sander. The edges are very prone to tear out so stop short of the opposite edge when scraping. You want to get one side of the board reasonable flat so it doesn't rock on a level surface in preparation for plaining.
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sled at the table saw trim the edges of the board flush Removing only what is necessary to flush the edges. Try to keep all four edges even in appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> To flatten the boards I ran them through my plainer. Before doing this the edges must be rounded over or sever tear out will occur at the end of the cut. I rounded the edges at the router table with a ¾" round over bit. Chase the work piece with a wood push block to prevent tear out at the end of the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Plaining end grain can be murder on your knives and could even damage your plainer if great care isn't taken to make very light passes. I rotate my depth adjustment wheel 1/8 of a turn or less for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the board is plained flat and smooth round the corners. I used a half dolor to get the desired radius. Make a template of the radius and use it to draw the curve on each corner. Remove the bulk of the waste at the band saw then sand to the line using a disc sander. Now round over the edges again with a ¾" round over bit at the router table. Sand the boards with a random orbit sander to 220 grit. If desired mist the boards with water to raise the grain then sand with 220 again when dry.
> 
> Seal the boards
> Clean the dust off and apply a generous coat of mineral oil to all surfaces. Allow to soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe the boards dry with paper towels or rags. Place narrow stickers under the boards and let them sit for a couple days. Some oil may wick out from the wood so wipe them dry again as needed. To add a final luxury to the finish wax the boards with a edible bees wax finish.
> 
> A few facts about End Grain Cutting Boards
> 
> Why end grain?
> 
> There are several distinct advantages to a end grain cutting surface as opposed to a long grain surface. Not only do they look beautiful but they are the supreme cutting surface used in butcher shops for centuries. The surface is much harder and more durable than regular cutting boards and resists knife marks as well as keeping your knives sharp longer. A regular cutting board with the grain running the length of the board will soon show signs of wear due to the knife edge severing and crushing the wood fibers. Some of the wood grain may even break loose and splinter creating a rough porous surface serving as a hiding place for bacteria. With a end grain board the wood fibers are standing on end allowing the knife edge to pass between the wood fibers there for extending the life of the board.
> 
> Use and care of your end grain
> Cutting board
> 
> Use your end grain cutting board for all of your slicing, dicing and chopping needs in the kitchen. To sanitize the board after use wash it with mild soapy water. Never submerge in water or place it in the dishwasher. If you're concerned about bacteria especially after cutting meats use a mister to spray the surface of the board with white vinegar and wipe dry with a paper towel. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth. Cutting boards should be finished regularly (once a moth is optimal) with a mineral oil to maintain their beauty and keep the wood from warping and cracking.
> Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish the cutting board, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Wipe the mineral oil on with a clean cloth, let stand for 10 minutes or so and thoroughly wipe dry with a fresh clean dry cloth or paper towels. To further protect and beautify the finish apply a bees wax top coat. Apply the beeswax in much the same manner as the mineral oil. Rub the wax on with a clean soft cloth, allow to dry. Then buff to a lustrous shine using a fresh dry clean cloth.
> 
> I hope you found this useful and will enjoy building your own version of these end grain boards. Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks for reading.


Beware of mineral oil on cutting boards. I used four darker woods plus maple. When I applied the oil all the darker woods took on the same color kind of ugly brown. It was as though they were made of the same wood.


----------

