# Steel Wool a No-No??



## Jenine (Sep 6, 2013)

I was at our local Kenyon Noble to buy some liquid wood filler to use on walnut before finishing (love that place). The paint manager, Richard, is a bit of a genius. Degrees in physics and chemistry…attends all the wood finishing conferences/conventions and knows his stuff.

He told me to never EVER use steel wool to rub out a finish. According to him, it is no longer recommended because you can never remove the little bits left behind and it will eventually rust.

Question: has anyone ever had this happen? 10 years later and seen rust streaks in their finish?

I switched to scotch brite pads for my current project and it just isn't the same. So, what do you think? Someone at the conference giving a presentation just needed to give out some fresh advice and was reaching? Or is this legit info?

Thanks!


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Never have seen the so-called "Rust Streaks"...been using 0000 Steel Wool for a few decades. But….when I use the steel wool ( just did on my last table) I use the tack cloth to wipe the surface down. Last time through the finish process, I had a wash cloth under a palm sander block to rub things out after the steel wool.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

I've also used steel wool for years and never seen any rust. Like bandit I wipe it down and I also use my air compressor to blow away dust & debris from my work


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

I like using bronze wool and your paint manager is correct.


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## Jenine (Sep 6, 2013)

> Never have seen the so-called "Rust Streaks"...been using 0000 Steel Wool for a few decades. But….when I use the steel wool ( just did on my last table) I use the tack cloth to wipe the surface down. Last time through the finish process, I had a wash cloth under a palm sander block to rub things out after the steel wool.
> 
> - bandit571


This is crazy because he also said NO tac-cloth anymore! Gah! What!? Something about the wax most tac-cloths have can flex and contract under the poly, leading the problems in the future (cracked or warped poly). He kind of shattered my mental finishing steps. He did sell me the best damn microfiber cloth on the planet for $1.00. It is so tacky that it feels uncomfortable to touch (kind of pulls on little dry bits of skin, gives me a nails on the chalkboard feeling). But, it leaves no lint behind. So, that is nice…and it is cheap and reusable many times. But the steel wool is bugging me. Glad to hear others are not having rust streaks 10 years later.


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## Jenine (Sep 6, 2013)

> I like using bronze wool and your paint manager is correct.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


BRONZE WOOL??? I had no idea that existed! I'll have to give that a try!


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

I'm no finishing expert, but I have never had a problem with residue from steel wool being left on the project and rusting. I have had some issues in the past with some Big Box steel wool that seems to come with some sort of ******************** on it. Either something left over from the manufacturing process or something added to keep the material from oxidizing. I was always concerned that the gunk would create a problem with the next coat of finish. Now I use Luberon steel wool Pricey, but very good quality.


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

What is the grade on the bronze wool? A quick Google search only turned up "coarse" and "fine" One site suggested that the fine was equivalent to "0" steel wool. We are looking to replace "0000" steel wool for rubbing out finishes. . Is there a comparable grade bronze wool out there?

I can see how any steel residue on bare wood could lead to stains from reacting with tannins. I have never used steel wool on bare wood. Can't see how it would migrate through a cured finish or why you couldn't manage to get all of the fibers off a cured finish after rubbing it out.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Homax-Fine-Bronze-Wool-Pads-3-Pack-123100/100185012

Home Depot has Fine Medium and Coarse and I'm not sure if 0000 is fine or extra fine.

I've had good results using Fine bronze wool though.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I've had rust "specks", not streaks…in a few cases. I long ago switched to fibral wool, or none at all (brown paper bags, wet sanding, that kind of thing is what I use). I've never used tack cloths, never really saw a need for them.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Home Depot's "fine" is 000 .. I have some in my shop.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Jenine, first of all, steel wool will rust IF it is used with water based finishes due to steel particles left behind. It will not rust if used with solvent products. There are different quality levels of steel wool with Liberon being the best IMO. Your guy may be a genius, but he might also be trying to make a sale. HTH


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

I only use steel wool after the finish is built up and before wax. Never had a problem.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

The guy is correct for waterborne finishes, use scotchbrite with them, but for solvent finishes, never had an issue with cheap box store steel wool.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

While your guy Kenyon Noble (yes, very cool store) may be technically correct, I have never had a long-term problem with steel wool and solvent or oil finishes, but I would not use in the process of doing waterborne finishes.

The problem really comes into play if you use the steel wool in between coats of waterborne finish and some particles are lodged or not completely removed. When you add another coat of waterborne finish on top of the steel wool particles they rust.

If you use steel wool for buffing out at the end of the finish, and some fine particles become embedded in the surface, that can certainly rust over time as it is exposed to ambient humidity or moisture from a sweaty glass or a table top being wiped clean with a damp rag.

For me, I rarely ever use steel wool anymore. The packages of steel wool that I purchased are probably 15 years old. That may sound crazy, but I settled on a finishing system, mostly using pre-cat lacquer and it requires much less work. I found that even oil based finishes do not need to be worked with steel wool.

I realized that if I am rubbing my finish out my finish with steel wool to get it to look good, then I am not applying my finish properly. And I never use wax on top of my finishes. If the surface becomes contaminated with wax, I can't repair it.


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## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

When I had trouble with a poly finish that was way too shiny, there were about half-a-dozen different things suggested here for toning it down to a more matte finish. It was recommended that I rub the well-dried finish with everything from paper bags to the face of a forum troll.

In the end, nothing worked…except #1 real steel wool. Worked great.

(note that I tried 2 different "grits" of synthetic steel wool - no good)


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

People have been saying that about steel wool for more decades than I've been alive and today is the first time I've ever heard someone say it actually happened to them. I believe it could happen but is unlikely if you wipe down afterward.


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

Refinished for 12 years professionally, and used steel wool before applying finish, and after when I needed a buffed, waxed finish. Never, never had any rusting problems.

I also never used waterborne finishes, so I cannot say anything on those.

I still use steel wool to this day, 0000, and never have a problem.

And I don't use tack cloths either, I use microfiber. I don't think the tack cloths leave much behind on the wood, but I just don't like the fact they seem to pick up everything in your shop you don't want them to, stroage is a headache, and they are difficult to reuse, cannot put them in the washer, etc. Microfiber is a better choice.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

+1 on the microfiber for a tack cloth. No chance of leaving residue, actually cleans better because it isn't tacky and trying to grab the surface, and reusable.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Never had an issue with it. However I prefer to wet sand a finish with a 1500 grit soft sponge.


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## Fettler (Dec 6, 2012)

As mentioned above, cheap #0000 can have an oil in it and should be avoid. It does make sense that steel wool won't remove nibs. Last time I rubbed out a varnish finish I bought a sandpaper based kit from woodcraft. Seemed to work well.

I'm a bit confused about the whole rusty bits in the finish part. How does anything get into a dried finish? Maybe with lacquer or shellac I could see this. Or maybe in between coats, but final rub out should be final. Also, how would steel oxidize inside a finish?

All that said, I'm not a finishing veteran and it sounds like that guy knows what he's talking about.


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## Cajunrotor (Jan 11, 2012)

I've used 0000 steel wool also for years indoors on furniture projects with never a rusting problem. HOWEVER, when doing bright work (varnished rails, etc.) on my boat, I avoid steel wool like the plague because it will rust due to that particular environment. It's really tough working outdoors to obtain a totally moisture-free environment creating all sorts of challenges, so eliminating all those little rust specs is a no-brainer for me.


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