# Should I brother oiling the underside of my butcher block countertop?



## AM420 (May 8, 2017)

I'm putting a cherry edge grain butcher block countertop in my kitchen and finishing the top right now. The pieces are3/4" wide and the countertop I 1 1/2" thick.

I may do a sealer finish eventually but for now it's just going to be oil and wax due to time and other limitations. Do I need to worry about oiling or otherwisefinishing the underside or can I just leave it bare?

I just can't to any sealing finish now because I don't have time and the smell and fumes would not be good for my 7 months pregnant wife

Thanks.


----------



## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

I'm a huge supporter of whatever you do to one side of a piece of wood, you do similar to the other side. The bottom of a table top need not get 3 coats, with meticulous sanding between, just a simple splash on works for me, but I'm a both sides guy, and I have never had an issue I felt was due to both sides being covered. I have however seen damage done where only one side was covered, and most who looked at it, felt that was the probable cause.

On cutting boards I'm seeing complete immersion much more often that ever before. Allows the wood to drink until full, as it were. I do know when putting oils on wood, some areas absorb it like a sponge, while others stay wet for a long time. Submersion allows the wood to decide I suppose. I've not heard, Ohhhh that's too much oil before.


----------



## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

I'm with Steve. Do both sides.


----------



## AM420 (May 8, 2017)

Thanks. I was thinking along the same lines, and since mineral oil isn't too expensive, why not! The cherry is drinking up a lot of oil too! I agree with letting it soak until it can't take any more. Too bad a submersion of a 12' countertop isn't practical. I'll just keep pouring on instead.



> I m a huge supporter of whatever you do to one side of a piece of wood, you do similar to the other side. The bottom of a table top need not get 3 coats, with meticulous sanding between, just a simple splash on works for me, but I m a both sides guy, and I have never had an issue I felt was due to both sides being covered. I have however seen damage done where only one side was covered, and most who looked at it, felt that was the probable cause.
> 
> On cutting boards I m seeing complete immersion much more often that ever before. Allows the wood to drink until full, as it were. I do know when putting oils on wood, some areas absorb it like a sponge, while others stay wet for a long time. Submersion allows the wood to decide I suppose. I ve not heard, Ohhhh that s too much oil before.
> 
> - therealSteveN


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

If you can, yes.

Wood loves oil. The more oil you can get deep into it, the less it's going to shrink, which causes joint separations and cracking/splitting.

The oil does not evaporate, it keeps wicking to the adjacent, dry cells. Get enough oil in it and, even if it was a shingle roof, it'd outlast you.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

the two cutting counter tops ive done in the past i never oiled the bottoms and had no problems,but if you can why not,it sure wont hurt.


----------



## nkawtg (Dec 22, 2014)

I say both.
Moisture can enter from the bottom and push the finish off the top. Checking, flaking, etc.


----------



## Adhoc (Jan 3, 2021)

How is it working for you?

Ever look into painting the underside with Redgard? I'm considering this on Ikea Pinnarp butcher block.


----------



## AM420 (May 8, 2017)

> How is it working for you?
> 
> Ever look into painting the underside with Redgard? I m considering this on Ikea Pinnarp butcher block.
> 
> - Adhoc


After a year of trying to keep up with oiling my countertop and still getting water stains and sanding, I discovered Rubio monocoat, which has turned out to be an excellent choice for finishing my butcher block countertop. It applies super easy, isn't smelly, doesn't take weeks/months to cure, and leaves the countertop with the natural wood feel rather than the shiny plastic feel of a film finish.

I have gotten a couple of water marks but only after about 6 months. And I only think that may be because I had to try to sand away as much oiled surface from my counter before applying the Rubio monocoast because it's supposed to be applied to raw wood and I could get rid of all the oiled surface. But the good news is that it's super easy to spot sand and refinish bad spots. With film finishes you have to redo the whole counter.

If you're getting butcher block counters and want a nice natural finish that doesn't take forever to cure and drink, go with Rubio monocoat or similar hard wax oil. The Wood Whisperer has a great video on it explaining why it's so good and how to apply it.

Regarding the ikea counters, be sure it's all wood and not just a veneer over a non wood core (unless that's what you want) I think ikea only has one pure wood option, and it was too thin for my liking. Check out Floor & Decor of lumber liquidators. I got my counters from floor & decor. Very inexpensive and I'm very happy with what I got.


----------



## Adhoc (Jan 3, 2021)

Thanks, I had heard about Rubio but don't know if I can get it here and things like that can't ship to me. I'll look around.

Ikea pinnarp is a veneer product 1.5" thick.


----------



## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

"I just can't to any sealing finish now because I don't have time and the smell and fumes would not be good for my 7 months pregnant wife"

Yes, oil both sides.

If you put wax on the finish you will not be able to put a finish coat on later because it will not stick well. Also don't use mineral oil as it never truly dries or cures. Stick witl BLO, processed Tung oil or my choice, Walnut oil (Mahoney's is a good one. They all cure and can be top coated.


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> the two cutting counter tops ive done in the past i never oiled the bottoms and had no problems,but if you can why not,it sure wont hurt.
> 
> - pottz


+1 Can't hurt but I think a butcher block is too thick to really make a difference, but then again, what do I know. :0) 
It could probably be done in the time it took to write this reply. You're not gonna sand and finish the bottom so a quick coat wiped on with a rag for your peace of mind is a no brainer.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Sorry, but I would stay away from BLO. It's one of the least protective finishes you could use, and it, like any so called sealing finish, will prohibit you from adding anything but more sealer.

It is true mineral oil never dries, but that is one of its characteristics that makes it one of the ideal treatments to stop wood from drying, which results in cracking and splitting. The oil, rather than evaporate, wicks to the next driest area, replacing lost moisture and keeping the wood dimensions more stable.

Another big advantage of that "old technology" is, it requires no real work to add future coats.

Generally, sealing finishes will not fully seal the surfaces, though with enough attention it can go far. However, it requires attending all six surfaces, and using thinned coats for penetration, before the final coat.

Another post about "butcher blocks" (jointed but not end grain counters) talks of a product I've never heard of or played with, but which may be worth looking into.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

As I mentioned elsewhere, I was working a 5" slab for a table top using highly thinned poly. I kept adding as it soaked in, until it slowed down taking it a great deal. Then I would slather it on and go do something else. I only let it set long enough to soak in some more, then I'd touch it up, so it wouldn't start the hardening process and block me from adding more.

Well into the project and my second gallon, I dropped the brush. When I bent over to pick it up, I looked up and large spots were damp where the thinned poly had soaked through.



> +1 Can t hurt but I think a butcher block is too thick to really make a difference, but then again, what do I know. :0)
> It could probably be done in the time it took to write this reply. You re not gonna sand and finish the bottom so a quick coat wiped on with a rag for your peace of mind is a no brainer.
> 
> - Andybb


----------



## seakuv (May 7, 2019)

Interesting reading. I used a couple of 2.5" thick maple countertops (edge grained) as built in bench seating for a 
dining table. I finished the top, sides and ends with poly but left the bottoms unfinished. It was in a house, so generally climate controlled - i.e heated 9 months of the year - open windows the other three. Pretty high humidity environment, the rainforest of SE Alaska. Never had a single problem with the finish in eight years. Maybe I just got lucky.


----------



## Adhoc (Jan 3, 2021)

> Pretty high humidity environment, the rainforest of SE Alaska. Never had a single problem with the finish in eight years. Maybe I just got lucky.


Good to hear. I'm also in SE AK.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

What kind of heat?

The tables I did from stumps and slabs sat in front of a well used fire place for forty plus years.


----------



## ceabrm (Dec 29, 2016)

i'm a waterlox fan myself. used it to seal my countertops and haven't had a water spot yet. really like that the counter still feels and looks like wood. a big plus for me is that i don't have to sand the counter to recoat (i prob will give it a very light going over anyway). the counter has been down for nearly 6 years without needing a second application yet.
ditto on applying finish to both sides.


----------

