# Reliant Jointer Question



## fredf (Mar 29, 2008)

I am going to go look at a reliant jointer tomorrow, asside from making sure the beds and fence are flat, what should I look for?? or should I just run the other way? I figure for $100 I can't to too far wrong . . .


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## juniorjock (Feb 3, 2008)

You're right, for $100. I think I'd just check to see if all the adjustments work smooth. Check the knives. A new set may cost you more that what the jointer is worth. Good luck
-JJ


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## brianinpa (Mar 16, 2008)

I run towards these types of bargins! Check the cutting head bearings and don't forget the motor. If the motor is filled with wood chips, it may be an indication of how well the previous owner cared for it.


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## cmaeda (Sep 1, 2008)

Most of my large tools are used from Craigslist. Keep in mind that most tools being sold are in bad shape so plan on spending a lot of time restoring the jointer. 
A lot of stuff is pretty inexpensive to repair but there are a few deal breakers.
Look at all the cast iron surfaces and check for cracks. If I see cracks, I won't buy.
Make sure the bed and fence are flat.
Make sure the motor works. Motors are pretty easy to repair but some repairs take a really long time so unless its' a really good deal, stay away from broken motors.
Most bearings are pretty inexpensive to replace but make sure the problem is with the bearing and not the arbor or the knife holder.
Before looking at the jointer, its' also helpful if you can get an exact model number to see if you can still get replacement parts and see how much common stuff like the belt and the knives cost. 
I think that's about it.


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## carlosponti (Sep 9, 2008)

I bought a used jointer from a co-worker it ran fine. like already mentioned make sure the cast iron isnt cracked or warped on the fence and not cracked on the bed. make sure you can get it adjusted etc. dont be fooled by rust on the top that can be cleaned up. mine was rusted took some care and its smooth again.


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## fredf (Mar 29, 2008)

I picked it up last night, not bad condition at all. the Power switch was so full of sawDUST that you couldnt push it so it ran all the time, It needed a new power plug (ground pin was missing) those issues are now fixed, and the top has been cleaned well enough to use. The worst problem is that the knives were MISSING (considering the DUST in the switch they must have been really dull,) the guy did had the wedges with the gib screws so for $18 or so for new blades we will be in business. At some point I will probably want to replace the belt with a link belt, but that can wait till I am gainfully employed again. built in 1992, its sweet 16


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## cmaeda (Sep 1, 2008)

If you're buying new blades consider an upgrade to carbide blades. You can joint ten times the amount of wood between sharpenings. Just don't use it when you're jointing rough lumber, as sometimes, you'll get nails or other random metals bits in there.


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