# Foolish mistake (screws through the benchtop)



## Murdock (Aug 7, 2011)

I attempted to attached the top of my new workbench tonight and now have screws sticking up through it, the pointy end.

I used pocket holes from the bottom with 2.5" screws, the rails are fir 2x and the top is 2 layers of 3/4 plywood.

I did several test pieces before I began and should have had the screws ending 1/4" before coming through but it turns out that the rail material was softer than I expected and I ended up driving the screws all the way through the top and now they stick out by 1/8 and 1/4 inches. Of course I had the whole unit upside down while doing this so I didn't notice it until I turned it over and cut myself on one of the screws.

If I back out each of the screws and put a shorter one in the same hole can I expect it to hold, or will the hole be large from the original screw?


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

I'd certainly try replacing them with shorter screws. If the holes can't be HEALED, then you may be adding a new 'feature' on the other side. Oh, and for that softer material, soak the material with CA glue to harden it up a bit after removing the long screw & healing the holes, but before installing the shorter screws.

Hey, little butterfly inlays might look right nice on that top.


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## tomd (Jan 29, 2008)

Slip a sliver of softwood into the holes after you remove the long screws to take up any slack.


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## ocwoodworker (Mar 5, 2010)

The tapered tip is only a short portion of the screw. You should be able to shorten the screw and not have a problem.
If you find that it is too loose you could always ream the hole and insert a glued dowel and then re-drill the hole. Hope it all works out.

Cheers


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## Murdock (Aug 7, 2011)

Thanks for the help guys, I am going to pick up the shorter screws tomorrow and give it a go.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Bolt cutters are useful for shortening screws. In cabinet work, screws are
needed in such fine increments for so many specific applications, it is hard
to keep all sizes on hand and some very useful screws aren't available at 
normal hardware stores. Thus the art of screw-cutting. As long as you've
got a pilot hole, the screw doesn't need a pointy end.


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## saddletramp (Mar 6, 2011)

Can you go with a shorter, one size larger screw?


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## Murdock (Aug 7, 2011)

Loren - good idea but no bolt cutters

Saddletramp - Also a good idea, I'll see what they have for diameters at the local hardware.

Thanks


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Hardened screws can usually be broken off pretty easily as well, in
a pinch. This comes up on installations and other jobsite work often
enough.


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

Sounds like you over-drove your screws. Did you lower the setting of the drill clutch? I usually set mine to 12 - 14 depending on the hardness of the wood. You want the screws to seat firmly, and then stop.

Were you using the right pocket screws? The Kreg system uses truss head screws (the screw heads look like they have a washer). I once tried to use a different type of pocket screw and had a problem similar to yours.

You can probably save your work by backing out the screws, gluing a filler like a matchstick into the threaded part of the hole, and carefully re-driving your screws.


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## Murdock (Aug 7, 2011)

Sawkerf
I no doubt over-drove the screws. The clutch on my drill is stiff so I had it set to 8, but it never triggered, I stopped when it "snugged up"

I was using the Kreg brand screws, they happen to be the "weather resistant" kind since I had some left over from making window flower boxes last year.

The matchstick or larger screw size is what I am going to try, headed to the store now to get the shorter screws


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## jusfine (May 22, 2010)

You can also use a belt sander to shorten them.


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## Murdock (Aug 7, 2011)

The shorter screws seem to be working great, top is showing no signs of being loose and the holes are hardly noticeable as the closed up on themselves as the screws were removed.

Thanks again for all your suggestions


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Just plane them smooth with a good hand plane…


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

... or nearly smooth with a bad hand plane.


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## AlbertaJim (Oct 1, 2011)

If the old holes do bother you you could always make new pocket holes from the bottom side and then cut some plugs from a contrasting wood and make the old holes a design feature.


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## maljr1980 (Sep 4, 2011)

just put another layer of 3/4" on top, you cant go wrong with a thicker sturdier top


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