# Repairing warped barn door



## GuntherBespoke (Aug 23, 2017)

Hi all,

I built a 60" x 98" barn door for a customer and have been notified that it has warped. From the photo she sent me it looks as though one corner is about an 3/4" to 1" out of whack.. the bottom left corner bending away from the wall.

It was constructed out of 2×8 doug fir, decorative diagonal brace from one corner to another, with pine t&g in dadoes around the frame.










I know that some type of turnbuckle is what I'm looking for, but you can see that I don't have much clearance. Can anyone make a suggestion of something low profile and yet strong enough to pull the corner in on this 1 1/2" door?

Edit-

This seems like a decent solution, with large enough screws for the force, but the cable isn't long enough.

Do you think just buying a long enough cable would suffice? Should I go up in diameter?


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I'd say 3/4" is within acceptable tolerances
considering the size of the door and quality 
of material.

That said, since you didn't manage customer
expectations from the beginning…

I'm aware of turnbuckle kits to remove sag
from gates but I can't think of a way to 
remove "potato chip" from a door with one.


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## GuntherBespoke (Aug 23, 2017)

Would the tension not pull it back in, if installed on the back?


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

wondering: how long has it been in the customers home ?
how long was the wood actually "in" your shop.
what were the climatic conditions of your shop when you assembled it.

I am thinking along the lines of temperature and humidity changes between 
your shop and the clients home.
a quick fix now may cause more problems later when the wood finally
comes to its acclimated resting place.
if it were me - I would ask the client for patience until you can be assured
that the wood is fully acclimated - then explore your options of correction.

also wondering: what kind of finish did you put on the wood and how many coats ?
and the back side? equal treatment as the front ??

jus my Dos Centavos


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## GuntherBespoke (Aug 23, 2017)

It has been in the client's home about 2 months. My shop was temp/humidity unregulated, but it was in the fall, so it should have been outside of any extremes. Time the lumber spent in my shop, probably about 3 weeks.

Client's is a home builder and the house was incomplete, so again unregulated air/temps. Probably drier conditions now than to begin with.

Equal treatment on both sides, 5 coats of GF High Performance.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I think these are designed to do it.

I'm not sure about the diagonal approach. Perhaps
you are correct.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I got curious. Perhaps going corner-to-corner
is the wrong approach.

Video shows a way to pull in one corner with
a threaded rod.


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

I think that when all the votes are in, you will have to bring it back to your shop for corrective action. 
I did a quick google search on why doug fir warps, cups, splits, etc. and the general consensus is that
Acclimatization is essential. also alternating the grain pattern. (as with all large wood panels). 
a real bummer as I am sure that bad boy is HEAVY !!!
I am just assuming that the door is strictly cosmetic and not an actual working door to another room?
if you can install any of the above mentioned hardware in the back for corrective action, I would do whatever
it took to make it as quick as possible between the clients home and in your shop and back again to prevent
or at least minimize any further issues with acclimation after you take it back. Unless you can do it "on site".
there are more aggressive measures that can be taken such as making deep saw kerfs in the back. 
but that is to the extreme end of the spectrum.
heartbreaking I'm sure.


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## GuntherBespoke (Aug 23, 2017)

Sadly, "on site" is 3 hours away. I'm going to order the hardware so she can have one of her contractors do the install, and hope that does it.

I built that one and another at the same time, the other is doing just fine. They both are functional and slide in front of a laundry room. At least it'll never be closed with someone on the inside, so fitting something on the rear face will never actually be seen.


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

all in all - GREAT JOB in your craftsmanship !!!!!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

It's possible your joinery is not allowing wood movement creating the warp,or you built this with construction grade material that wasn't dry enough to get a stable product. I think in using turnbuckles and cable or a threaded rod the customers might get their hands or clothes snagged on it.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

It might be hard to do given the size of the door but Charles Neil has a trick where you cut a very deep kerf(70% of it's width) on the edge of the stiles of the door and glue with Urea-formaldehyde and clamp flat until dry. This has worked great for cabinet size doors for me.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Now it's winter and she has the heat cranked. I'd ask if she can live with it until the spring and see what the door does. You may correct something that will correct itself. I also believe that anything you put on the back may damage the drywall when the door is opened.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/4" Angle iron down both sides.
or a C-Channel, (if you could find the correct size)
you could put it on all 4 sides to maintain the look like it was planned.


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## JBrow (Nov 18, 2015)

GuntherBespoke,

I see a number of problems with your (OP) proposed solution. It is difficult to understand how the sliding door would function with a cable and turnbuckle attached on the wall side of the door. It would seem the hardware could scrap the wall as the door is opened and closed. I am also doubtful that enough force can be applied to overcome the bow in the stile and/or rail. Additionally, even if the turnbuckle and cable work, the hardware would be applying a fair amount of force to the entire door and could result in a failure elsewhere. As a customer, I would be unhappy to see an ugly add-on afterthought applied to my custom door. And then to have to install corrective hardware myself would be a put-off plus, if installed incorrectly, it could make matters worse.

Without seeing the door, this suggestion is a guess. From the photo it appears the left stile may have bowed, although the bottom rail may be the problem. If the bottom rail and left stile are replaced, the door may return to true. It would require some time and the finish on the new rail and stile would have to be matched, but in the end I would think that this approach to the repair would enhance your reputation with a customer who is a builder and thus could be the source of additional business.


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## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

Another vote that apparently using construction grade wood, that hadn't dried to indoor levels before being built, is the source of the problem.

I like this idea from Loren. Looks to be similar to the tension rod in a guitar neck. But I think jbay's idea of wrapping with steel channel may be your best bet, but a heavy door would get a lot heavier doing that.

No matter what, that wood wants to move, and anything you do to force it straight runs the risk of creating forces that will cause splits and cracks later. Might be better to suck it up and remake with properly dried wood.



> I think these are designed to do it.
> 
> I m not sure about the diagonal approach. Perhaps
> you are correct.
> ...


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## GuntherBespoke (Aug 23, 2017)

Thanks all. You're all correct - poor lumber selection caused this.. It wouldn't be such a headache if it weren't for the fact that these doors are THREE HOURS AWAY. The client is happy to try out the cable, but if that won't work due to door frame clearance, or it doesn't work, I will rebuild the doors and do right by her.

Thanks for the input, everyone.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Good luck with the fix or remake, we all learn from issues like this.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

> Thanks all. You re all correct - poor lumber selection caused this.. It wouldn t be such a headache if it weren t for the fact that these doors are THREE HOURS AWAY. The client is happy to try out the cable, but if that won t work due to door frame clearance, or it doesn t work, I will rebuild the doors and do right by her.
> 
> Thanks for the input, everyone.
> 
> - GuntherBespoke


3 hours away isn't a big deal. You should chalk it up as a school lesson.  
Bite the bullet, take the day and whatever it takes to do the repair.

I think you can fix it. 
It will be much more to make a new door than to drive the 3 hours, 
fix the problem 
and make your customer happy at the same time.

Even though the client is willing to do as you instruct them it won't do much for your reputation as fixing it yourself.
It's the professional thing to do.


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## GuntherBespoke (Aug 23, 2017)

I'm just not sure what it would even take to fix it. If the single board has twisted I won't be able to straighten it. So it's possible I'd drive all that way and still be out of luck.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

If it were me I would go there, possibly with whatever fix in mind. 
(for me the angle iron, but you made the door so you would know more than me)

Look at the door, make a decision if the fix you decided on will work or not. 
If so, do the fix and be done, if not, don't do anything and bring the door back to your shop and figure out a fix from there.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

You can probably find somebody on Craigslist
or some Ap to bring it down to you for $50
or something.

I think a pair of the Hafele rods inset into the
stiles from the back will do it. They are double
acting so they can bend a stile in either direction.
I am not sure, but I suspect it may be best
to let the glue holding the filler strip in dry 
thoroughly before adjusting, making a one-day
site repair a gamble.


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## sawdustdad (Dec 23, 2015)

3/4 inch is not bad considering the size.

It might not be wood choice, it could be that the warp is caused by excess humidity in the laundry room. I'd ask the owner to wait until spring to see if it equalizes. Ask her if she's keeping the door closed when laundry is being done. That would create high humidity on the laundry room side.

The only solution in a humid on one side/dry on the other is a sheet of MDO covered with thin strips of wood to simulate your current door appearance.

Oh, btw, no turnbuckle/reinforcement of any kind will prevent the warping. The forces are far more than some simple arrangement can manage. If it doesn't warp one way, it will warp another.

If she can't live with it as is, or it gets worse, after a few months, just build a new one out of MDO and take it there and hang it. One trip and done.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

I say remake them trying to force the wood into a shape it doesn't want to be is the same thinking that got you here.
It's always good to pick the best straight grain dry boards for doors.


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## GuntherBespoke (Aug 23, 2017)

Apologies to dredge then thread, but I thought you may all like to know that I replaced both doors, delivered and installed for the client.

One stile on each door had twisted and pulled the whole thing out of whack. I ended up going with regular board and batten as opposed to floating the t&g panel in dados. Took less than half the time and also weighed less.

Client was very happy with both the doors and my willingness to fix the error so thoroughly.

Thanks for all of the assistance.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

You did not use those 2 by … fIrom Home Depot did you?
If so 3/4" is extremely accurate, it could warp several inches. And still can with more time. I have had extremely bad luck with that lumber, I am just looking at a piece of 4×4 8' long. It twisted unbelievable 45 degrees from one end to another. It is framing material and should be used for that.
Doors are very tricky to make even from good lumber just because of the issues you see. The most reliable way to "fix" it is to replace it with a piece of plywood. You still can cut very thin strips from the same material you used and glue it on to preserve the look.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

If the cable doesn't work try screwing 1×1 angle iron into a rabbet. Obviously keep one side on the back side of door. If the metal is unsightly you can rip off a 1/4" strip first, then reapply. You can do it onsite.

I've fixed warped barn doors this way and it worked pretty well. Does add some weight if that's a consideration.

Might save you a whole bunch of time and expense. Personally I think the cable is a little tacky.


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## BFamous (Jan 26, 2018)

I think you made the right call by replacing them. You can always reclaim the wood from the old doors for a future project.


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## GuntherBespoke (Aug 23, 2017)

*Caps use here simply for visibility:

PROBLEM IS SOLVED. DOORS REPLACED. APOLOGIES FOR DREDGING THE THREAD. *


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## gargey (Apr 11, 2016)

Nice of you to fix it good job.

But why are people doing this in the first place? What a ridiculous trend.

"Hey guys, lets pretend the inside is the outside, and super old! And not matching anything else!" What?


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## vgV (Dec 4, 2018)

Hey Mark, How did you fix the issue on the end? I have very similar problem. Did you use turnbuckles?


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## GuntherBespoke (Aug 23, 2017)

The turnbuckles didn't work so I replaced both doors. Client was very happy, and has placed more orders since back then. I'm very glad I dealt with it the way I did!

I should add - when I replaced the doors I did not build them like the first, which was having the tongue and groove boards held in a dado. I simply laid out the boards, and used 3/4" material screwed over it as the frame. Less fancy or authentic, but also less prone to failure and it appears the same from the front. Saved myself loads of time also..


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## Wmecks (Jun 20, 2019)

I know this is an old thread but the first one I saw. I was just wondering if you had a matching diagonal on the back side? Without it, the door will always warp due to the uneven contraction of the diagonal on the one side.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

My shed doors, 80+ years old and counting, are scratching their heads at the statement below.



> I was just wondering if you had a matching diagonal on the back side? Without it, the door will always warp due to the uneven contraction of the diagonal on the one side.
> 
> - Wmecks


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