# Latex enamel vs oil and is poly needed?



## LearningAsIGo (Mar 8, 2011)

When you are ready to enter the finishing stages of a project what are the pros and cons of oil paint vs latex enamel? Typically I use Zinsser Cover Stain oil primer and then a latex enamel paint. I have used both BM Waterborne Satin Impervo & SW ProClassic Acrylic Latex Enamel. My question is, should I do a couple of polycrylic coats over the latex enamel paint or is that not necessary? And would there be a benefit to using an oil based paint instead of a latex enamel?


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

You might not get a lot of responses because LJs don't use a lot of paint on their projects…and when they do, it's milk paint.

What type of projects are you talking about? What materials? Location? Interior or exterior?


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

BTW I can't think of a single reason why I'd ever want clear poly over paint.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

That sounds to me like you would be topcoating an acrylic finish (enamel) with another acrylic finish (polyacrylic). Can't think of a single reason to do that unless you wanted the appearance of the clear top coat for some reason. There certainly wouldn't be any more protection than the enamel would provide. In general, oil finishes are regarded as more durable than the latex enamels….though it may be an urban myth. I don't recall seeing any tests that compared to two in terms of durability. I don't do many painted projects, but for those I've done I used oil based enamel. The longer drying time, the cleaning headaches (I spray), and general mess is a real deterrent to using it…I intend to move to a latex enamel next time. Just be sure to not confuse "latex enamel" with "latex wall paint".


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## LearningAsIGo (Mar 8, 2011)

I'm talking about furniture for example a bookcase or desk or tv stand. For the most part I prefer painting things vs staining. I'm just wondering if a coat of poly gives it any added protection or if it's unnecessary.

I believe the two paints I mentioned: BM Waterborne Satin Impervo (acrylic enamel) & SW ProClassic Acrylic Latex Enamel are not for walls.


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## rossboyle52 (Dec 31, 2012)

One coat of primer and 2 coats of quality Acrylic paint is sufficient. Clear coating over the paint (like when painting a car) doesn't add any protection. It is common for folks who tole paint to clear coat after completing a project. However the type of acrylic paint they use is different than the high quality paint that you are using. 
I did a kitchen for some folks a few years ago and at their request all the base cabinets and top cabinets were painted midnight black. The doors and drawer fronts were natural knotty pine finish. At first I thought, EEEKK!
However, once the kitchen was finished it looked great. 
Some of the finest cabinetry shops paint a lot of their products. Although my personal taste is natural finish, A well painted piece can have a lot of character. Just my 2 cents


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

I've done a number of painted finishes (see my projects), and the approach has been to do the color work in flat latex/acrylic wall paint, topped with either clear gloss waterborne poly or clear solvent lacquer. It's worked well.


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## LearningAsIGo (Mar 8, 2011)

I usually get a the paint in satin so it has a slight sheen


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

My comment about the wall paint was not meant to be condescending and if it came across that way, I apologize. A lot of folks will ratchet the word "latex" to whatever the big can is in front of them. That said, the acrylic enamels are plenty robust enough for book shelves, desk tops, etc. The poly will not add durability, though there is a possibility it might be more scratch resistant….that is it's calling in life.


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

In my experience, water borne enamels, namely gloss and semi-gloss latex/acrylic, can get "sticky" on bookshelves under warm humid conditions. I have found that a top coat of waterborne poly floor finish over flat latex/acrylic eliminates any such possibility, plus it offers more visual depth, IMO

As to durability, of course it adds durability, which includes greater scratch resistance. How can it not?


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## LearningAsIGo (Mar 8, 2011)

Fred: I didn't find your comment condescending I was just clarifying the types of paint that I have been using.

Clint: I'm pretty sure the impervo only comes in satin and the lowest finish I could get in the ProClassic was also satin. What brand and/or line of paint have you been able to find a flat finish in? When painting furniture should I use an enamel or would an acrylic latex be fine?


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

I used (or will use) the SW product for all the cabinets, windows, trim, and baseboard heaters in my house. It was what the guys as SW recommended to us and I hope it works well since we've spent so much time using it.


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## LearningAsIGo (Mar 8, 2011)

SW ProClassic Latex Enamel or something else?


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## Maggiepic (Aug 26, 2010)

SW Pro Classic will dry to a harder surface than most latex paints. Before I switched to lacquers that is what I used for built-ins and shelving. A waterborne poly top coat will add more protection to the surface do to the harder characteristics to it. You still need a quality "basecoat". You don't want to have your topcoat failing because of of poor color coat. Sand the basecoat before appying the clear and you'll get a quality finish.


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## BuildCentury (Mar 11, 2013)

I have done a lot of painted built-ins over the years in new homes. They have been painted by myself and other painting contractors and in high end homes it's always with oil based. I personally believe that you get a higher quality and more durable finish with oil. Also, the higher the sheen the more durable the finish. It would also eliminate the need for an additional top coat of clear.

The oils in alkyd paints evaporate slower and the finish levels out better then with latex or acrylic. Oil paints sand easier between coats too. The other advantage of oil is that they don't "block" like latex paints were things tend to stick to tops and shelves for months after they are painted.

One of the keys to working with oil paints is thinning and conditioning the paint before you apply it. Oil paint is way to thick to brush or spray on out of the can. I use a product called Penetrol to condition the paint and it helps it flow out and spread easier. If I need more thinning after adding Penetral per the directions on the can, I use paint thinner.

The other thing that can make a big difference is the brush. An ox hair brush is much softer then a china bristle brush and that's what I would recommend. They can be difficult to find, but you can buy them online or speciality woodworking stores. Purdy Ox-o-Thins are nice and the Elder Jenks Ox hair are pretty good too.

I had a buyer walk through a house tapping on the woodwork because he didn't believe it was wood. 
The clean-up and dry time is a pain, but the end result is worth it. Smooooooth as glass…


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

Benjamin Moore has recently introduced a waterborne alkyd, called Advance, in a gloss, that replaces their old Gloss Impervo oil enamel. But it's only available at stores which have the new mixing setup. I've been looking to give it a try.

I have used either Behr or Valspar flat latex/acrylic under waterborne poly, but I'm sure SW or other good brands would work as well.


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## LearningAsIGo (Mar 8, 2011)

GaryL: So after you paint you actually sand the paint before applying a poly coat? Can you do that with latex or only oil?

I have used floetrol and penetrol. I shy away from using oil as much as possible because it stinks something awful and I have to wear a respirator, the cleanup is a pain and if I'm using white paint I don't want it to yellow.


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## Maggiepic (Aug 26, 2010)

It's just a light sanding to remove any garbage that may inadvertently be in the first/basecoat. I sand between coats even when painting a wall. 
You're correct about white oils yellowing over time. I have not used oils in some time but I doubt that they have tweeked the formulas enough to stop that from happening.


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