# Delta 36-725 Contractor Table Saw



## JKMDETAIL

Wow, what a right up. I am playing it by ear and may be in the need for a new saw soon. Had been looking at this one and the orange one.


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## CharlesA

Great review.


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## paxorion

Out of curiosity did you have to adjust the blade to miter slot parallelism? Any comments on how that process was?


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## thetinman

Hi paxorion - regarding adjusting the blade to the miter slot, my saw was dead on so no adjustment was needed. Delta rep says it was not designed to be adjusted. Yup, that's not a good respose. But remember most of these reps that answer call-ins are just looking up stuff on a computer screen. I never felt I get good answers unless I talk to a real tech. I suspect that Delta will update the owner's manual someday and will descrie how to do this.

I helped a friend adjust his blade. His was only about 0.004" out and we were able to get it to just under 0.002". We cracked the trunnion bolts (just crack them-don't loosten them) then tapped them with a piece of wood and hammer. It is really tight in there but that is what the side of a hammer is for. It wasn't that difficult until we retightened the bolts only to find that tightening the bolts moved the blade again. After trial and error we got it.

Frankly, I don't know of another way. Remember, Delta says it was not designed for this. We found there was enough play to do it. I offer our amateur experience for what it is worth.


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## Tomoose

Great write-up - very entertaining and informative. I wasn't even aware of this saw.

Tom


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## wormil

Crazy thorough write up and entertaining to boot.


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## ssnvet

Could you please answer a couple questions?

Is this a direct drive saw? (doesn't look like there's room for belts)

Does the saw have an induction or universal motor?

What's the motor's name-plate amperage at 120 v.


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## Rocketman69

Great write up! I actually wish you'd have posted this last week, as I had to learn all of this the hard way while assembling mine. I was one of the lucky "lottery winners" who was able to get Lowe's to honor a 25% off coupon from Harbor Freight, so the $150 discount was the nail in the coffin for me…...although I must admit, after fiddling with the poorly assembled examples in the stores, I knew this was the saw for me….regardless of price.

As far as the coupon goes…..it took me 4 tries, at four stores…..each time, the person working the pro counter said they'd accept the coupon without any hesitation….but once they called their manager for the necessary override code….the managers at the first three informed them that the new corporate policy forbid allowing competitor's coupons…..I'm pretty sure I just got lucky at the fourth store…..your mileage may vary, but I think it's worth trying.

I kept hearing everyone complain about the two piece rail as well. As you stated in your write-up, if you take your time to line up the angle iron rails properly, the fence guide is a cinch. I might also add, that when installing the square tube fence guide on the front rail, I used my 36" framing square to assure the two halves were properly aligned, then just snugged the bolts. I installed the fence on the guide, and slid it over so that the left guide block (nylon thing on the fence that rides the rail) was to the right of the split and then tapped the outside of the right guide tube until I was perfectly aligned with the right miter slot and tightened all of the bolts on the right guide tube. Then, I moved the fence over until the split was between the two guide blocks, and adjusted the left guide tube until I was again aligned with the miter slot and tightened the bolt closest to the rail split for the left guide tube. I then moved the fence to the other side of the saw, and aligned it to the left edge of the cast iron table (where it meets the sheet metal wing), and tapped it ever-so-slightly until it was perfectly aligned (it didn't need much at all) and tightened down the remaining bolts on the left guide tube. I then checked the fence alignment in several locations to both miter slots, both table edges and the blade using both sides of the fence. Everything was perfect…..even inside the mythical 4" window that everyone seems to claim is where the fence won't align properly. Hogwash. It is smooth as silk.

I didn't see anything in my crappy instructions about squaring the fence to the table using the nylon jack screws on top of the fence, but using a large flathead screw driver this was easy to do….it also ensures that the metal of the fence wont scrape the top of your guide tube.

So far, I'm extremely happy with the purchase. This thing is quiet, and it cuts like a dream.

Thanks for taking the time to do the write up. Hopefully, it will help some others out when they're trying to decide whether or not to purchase this saw (I definitely recommend it), as well as those who might have some issues during assembly.


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## thetinman

Hey paxorion - TropicalWW just posted a better easier way to adjust the blade to the miter slot. I wish my friend and I (and the blasted Delta rep) would have known this 5-weeks ago. We did it the harder old fashoned way.

Now the Delta reps have up-to-date info that shows the simplicity of doing this. Check out TropicalWW's post at http://lumberjocks.com/topics/54669.

I checked his write-up against my saw - so much easier than what we did.


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## thetinman

Hi Mainiac Matt,

The blade arbor is belt driven by a 1.5 hp 13A induction motor. The motor is listed as 110V but the new saws being sold include a sheet of paper stating that it can be rewired to 220V and includes a phone number to call for instructions. I do not know if the motor has been changed since the first ones sold or Delta is just being swamped with this question and finally providing info.


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## thetinman

Hi Gib,
Thanks for the kind words. Page 29 shows how to square the fence to the miter slots (screws on the back side of the fence head below the nylon ones) and how to square the fence head to the table (the nylon screws on top of the fence).

Thanks again for your comments. Nice to see that someone else fussed with the rails and got them right. The "mythical 4" window" is where the fence drops out of square because the shorter rail/ fence guide is not straight to the longer one. The left and right sides of the fence head are no longer on the same plane. This also shows up when the fence is moved to the left of the blade resting on the shorter fence guide which is not straight to the longer one on which the fence was squared.


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## NormG

Well done review and hope it continues to meet your expectations


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## carver1942

Great review *thetinman*
I have a Ridgid 4512 which I will be listing on Craigslist soon, because of blade alignment issues. I was on the fence as to if I would go with the Delta 36-725. Your review has helped me to decide to get the Delta. I'm willing to spend more than the cost of the Delta but I'm locked into only having 120V to the saw. It appears to me that saws that have alignment issues use a trunnion system with a worm screw and worm wheel that move in an arc. The accuracy of the blade position is very dependent on the machining accuracy and fit of the worm wheel to the main trunnion. The saws that use a system like this Delta where the blade and motor assembly ride straight up and down on large steel pins, or in a dovetail, don't generally suffer with blade alignment issues. Those using a worm wheel it is hit or miss. If you get a good one, you're fine, if you get a bad one you'll never get a good blade alignment. My Ridgid is one of the bad ones. The trunnion system on the Delta is what sold me on this saw. Now I just have to see if any of Lowes stores in my area stock them. Thank you *thetinman * for your excellent and well thought out review.
regards
Ed


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## TheBoxWhisperer

One of the best reviews I have ever read. It has helped me to confirm that this is not the saw for me and I thank you for that. This review was 100 times more helpful then any I have seen in any magazine. You're the man!


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## ward63

EXCELLENT REVIEW!!!
Thanks for sharing.


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## keninblaine

Box Whisperer: I'm curious why Tinman's review made you decide that this saw is NOT the saw for you.


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## wormil

Box Whisperer has a $4k saw budget, I doubt this Delta was ever a contender.


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## AccidentalNinja

Thanks for the review, I've seen this saw in the local lowes and really couldn't find any feedback. I'm looking to make my first saw purchase and I was thinking I'd have to get something used to get something with decent performance (and not going over my budget)

I'm sure the rest of us here would like to hear some follow up after you use it a bit more to see if your opinion changes or not.

Thanks again for your time on this write up!


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## Ttier315

Excellent review. Bought this saw on a Sunday afternoon a few days ago and its still in the box. Waiting for Saturday so I can make a weekend out of it. I figure you've saved me about 4 hours of anxiety, frustration and profanity. Even though I researched tablesaws in this price range (what I can afford), I was still apprehensive about pulling the trigger. I always have the feeling that a better deal will manifest itself AFTER I make a purchase but after reading about your experience and recommendation, I feel much better about it. Thanks


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## TheBoxWhisperer

Hey Rick, did you hack my bank? If so can you drop about 4k in there, so that youre telling the truth? Actually better make it 8, I still dont have a bandsaw or drum sander. I was going to build the sander so as to save a couple grand but if youre going to put your nose into my budget, heck why not buy it instead!

The saw I plan on getting is 4k. Right now my budget is about 13 bucks.

Kenin, this review has helped me to make the decision, to skip the contractor level saw and go right to a cabinet saw. I am currently using a tweaked out but outgrown Ridgid r4510. A far cry from Rick M's Delta. Im not convinced that a contractor saw will handle the 2-3 inch maple slabs I use for furniture and give me the type of cut I want. My ridgid will go through it, but I want a really clean cut.

Cant say enough good things about this review though, I will read any future reviews from you my friend!


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## wormil

In another thread I thought you had discussed buying, or planning to buy, a $4k saw; I must have confused you with someone else.


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## TheBoxWhisperer

No that was me. You didnt confuse me for someone else. I took post #17 as rude but maybe its just me and you didnt mean it that way.


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## carver1942

Is it possible *thetinman* that you could give us an indication as to where the adjustment screws are located that *TropicalWW* said that he adjusted. Is he speaking about the set holding the trunnion to the table that we normally think of for adjusting blade alignment? Or is there screws meant just for the purpose of adjustment. Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
regards
Ed


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## thetinman

Hi Ed,

Sure, I'd be happy to help clarify what TropicalWW was referring to for his method of blade alignment. As we discussed in our off-board messages, this saw does not pivot/swing the motor/blade in an arc for raising and lowering. It moves the entire motor assembly straight up and down on guide tubes. Doing so eliminates its dependency on machining tolerance at the swing point. That's why some of the other saws can get the blade alignment correct at one height but not keep it as the blade is raised or lowered. Such systems are superb but difficult to accomplish consistently well in this price saw. Being a tool and diemaker you know that tolerances add up and sometimes all in the wrong direction. As you indicated about your saw, you either get a good one or you don't.

What TropicalWW is referring to is the clamp at the top of the guide tube the motor rides on. These guide tube clamps are part of the trunnion assembly attacked to the table. I believe he meant the back one he used. What I think he did was to just crack the screws open and tap the motor. The easiest way to say it is the guide tube(s) shift/spin in the mounts very slightly but significantly to the blade alignment.

I bit into this pie so now I have to eat it. I went out and looked my saw over. I noted that there is a set screw in the front tube in addition to the two clamping screws. The set screw is in the center of the tube. I loosened the set screw (which I do not think he did) and cracked the clamping screws on both tubes. (Don't loosen them or you'll hate yourself when you drop the motor assembly). Then I tapped the motor and sure enough screwed my blade alignment. (Holy crap I'm a glutton for punishment - but like I said, I bit into this pie.) The good news is that it was a breeze to bring back in by tapping.

Then I noted that the rear guide clamp had a threaded hole for a set screw but no set screw in it. I found a small bolt of the same thread - not a recessed hex but it worked. I tapped my motor and knocked out the blade alignment. (Holy crap I did it again!) But, I had an idea that I just had to try. Now, by alternately tightening/loosening the front/back set screws I was able to truly "dial" in the blade alignment watching the dial gauge on the saw. No I don't have high-end accuracy gauges like you Ed, but my Harbor Freight gauge says the blade is spot on. I tightened the clamping screws taking care to snug a bit on one - move to another - and so on until they were tight. The set screws being tight, the blade did not move while I was tightening the clamping screws.

I believe pictures tell a better story but I just couldn't get a good shot. If you open the back of the saw the guide tubes are right there and make sense. Sorry no pics.

I hope this helps you and the others Ed. I sure don't want to eat this piece of the pie again. Actually, it was educational for me too and kind of fun to discover an easy way to adjust my saw. My thanks to TropicalWW for starting the journey.


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## thetinman

Box Whisperer,

I thank you for your kindness. They tore down a 139-year old school house about 30 miles from my home a few years ago. They opened it up for scroungers like me for a weekend and I tore out some old oak flooring, baseboards, etc. The school had a wood shop (remember when schools taught you something useful) and, knowing the builder, I got a free couple hours Friday night before the scrounge day started the next morning. I picked up some small lengths of mahogany, oak, walnut and maple.

Given your comment about cutting maple, I ran a 2-1/4-inch piece through my saw. (Odd dimension) Yea I made small cuts - cuz I am not wasting this stuff. You've been kind but come on this is over 100-year old hard stock and only small lengths. I'll help you satisfy your feelings about your decision but there is a limit my friend. (That's my warped humor - certainly no insult intended) The best I can say about the cuts is ugly, ugly, and did I say ugly. This stock is well aged and 2-1/4" is a hefty bite for a saw this size in this type of wood. The saw labored noticeably and the feed rate had to be slow. Ugly saw marks everywhere. Lots of sanding needed. A different/better saw blade would have improved it but, even then, this saw just isn't the ticket if this type/thickness of wood is to be the steady diet.

Hope your budget improves over the $13 in the bank, Joe.

Terry


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## TheBoxWhisperer

Thanks Terry! I sold a couple cutting boards today, so the budget went up a little. A little more each day and Ill get there someday. I also have some bigger ticket items in the works that should bring bigger money.

I really appreciate you running that test piece for me. I think youve pretty much confirmed IM gonna need 3 horses. Your review and follow up is so meticulous, your attention to detail is amazing. If you were in my neck of the woods youd be welcome in my shop anytime.


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## wormil

The blade makes a huge difference. The OEM Freud blade that came on my Delta is loud and not particularity good. The Freud combo I bought to replace it is quieter, cuts easier and leaves a nicer finish. But the Freud glue line rip blade is the real treat. It eats up boards that bog down my combo blades. I consider it a necessity on a 2hp or below saw.


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## TheBoxWhisperer

Im using a Forrest WWII but the Freud glue line rip is next on my list. For pine and softer hardwoods like walnut, the forrest leaves as clean a cut as I could ever want. The harder woods give it some trouble. Its not the blade, its the saw. Rick you are absolutely correct on OEM blades. When I went from the ridgid to the forrest it blew my mind.


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## thetinman

This follow up post is the result of an email I received on my home account. To summarize a 2-page, dissertation: the author, and he claims several others, feel that I am bashing other peoples table saw choices and making contradicting claims about my choice; the Delta. The author also states that I am wasting people's time by continuing to respond to the comments to the review.

For the contradicting claim he refers to the review follow up comment #25: I state in the review that I cut 3" red oak but said in the comment that the saw would not cut 2-1/4" maple. For clarity, I do cut 3" oak at times for such things as tapering table legs. I have a blade for that and little sanding is needed. When I tested the 2-1/4" maple I did it as a test for someone else. Yes, the saw did cut the 100+ year old maple. I stated that. I also stated that the saw labored and the cut was ugly. I also stated a better blade than I have may have been better, but I gave my honest opinion that I did not think that this saw was suited for this type of work on a steady basis. The saw cuts 3" oak much better but I would not use this saw for a steady diet of that either. That is my opinion and I do not feel that the comparison of the two cuts (red oak vs. 100+ year old maple) is contradictory.

Regarding bashing other peoples saw choices, I wrote a review, my review, of the Delta saw. I tried to give a complete review of the saw and help with the assembly confusion. The only reference I make to other saws is identifying the other two in this price range. However, I do not make any head-to-head comparisons other than stating: "Given the past 5-weeks, I can now say I've used all three of them quite a bit and bought, what I believe, is the better choice for the money." For my needs I do believe that or I would have bought another saw or stuck with my Craftsman. The only direct functional comparison I make is to my old Craftsman.

Regarding the follow up comments to the review being a waste of everyone's time, I try to answer/address questions/issues raised by others. Before I retired from engineering, it was an expected practice to respond those who took the time to review your work and ask questions. Even if someone raises an alternative method, such as the blade alignment (comments #23 and #24), I feel it is important to respond and to give credit to the person responsible - TropicalWW. This practice was good for the company and I feel good for the site members. I cannot accept that it is a waste of time to respond to those who spent their valuable time to read my review, take the time to digest/evaluate the information and post a question.

I have not and would not bash anyone's tools. I made a choice for me and describe, to the best of my ability, the choice I made. I know I am new here and it is possible that I have inadvertently made some mistake in the way I review and respond. I can adjust my actions for the future but I cannot offer an apology.


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## CharlesA

Shake it off, Tinman. You done good.


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## carver1942

Your review is one of the best, if not the best I've ever seen. I found your review very subjective and fair. The purpose of a review is to evaluate a product and pass on your opinion to others so they can make a better buying decision. Your review met that criteria. The purpose of a forum is the open exchange of ideas and opinions among those with the same interests. To bash someone for responding to someone wanting more information about a post is absurd and goes against the whole concept of a forum. If a person feels further posts in a thread are a waste of time, then move on. I have seen other forums die because members became afraid to give their opinions out of fear of getting bashed by the self appointed think they know it all bullies. Members should be able to give a review without the worry of getting bashed because it puts the product someone else owns in bad light. I wish that I had seen an objective review like thetinman's before I bought my Rigdig R4512. Many people love the R4512, and I'm happy for them. But I'm one of the many buyers that got a bad one with blade shift. If I were to do a review on this saw should I not mention it because I might offend a lover of it? Should I receive angry PM's because I answered members wanting more information. If we are going to do reviews with only sugar and honey then we may as well not have a review section on the forum. I have not been a member of LJ's for long, but one of the first things I said to my wife was "what a great review section they have". I would not like to see that change. 
thetinman, thank you and all the others that take the time to review a product. It helps us all.
JMHO
Ed


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## wormil

If the emailer had any sack, he would have posted his concerns here.


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## WorksInTheory

Just to echo - TinMan - I appreciate the time and effort put nto writing this review so that others may find use in it. ESPECIALLY since this is a new saw and there are no reviews around as informative and detailed as this one. It is extremely helpful.


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## Tomoose

There is often someone who can find something to complain around here. Like CharlesA said, shake it off. You did a great review, thanks again for taking the time to follow the responses and answer people's questions. Keep up the good work.

Tom


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## thetinman

Thanks for your kind comments and support. But let's end this. I did not post that guy's email nonsense to start any kind of firestorm. I posted it only because he said there were others who felt the same way. I posted my response to them. Otherwise I would have simply kept it between the two of us in private emails. My simple solution is to ignore his posts and strongly encourage him, or anyone else who chooses, to ignore mine.

Let's get it back on topic. Thanks to all again.


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## TheBoxWhisperer

I want to stay quiet on this but Tinman I know you did that test cut for me, and I thank you for it again.

I am sorry for the unfortunate people that could not see the benefit of Tinmans review. Perhaps if lumberjocks had an auto translate feature it wouldn't have happened, because the only reason I can think of not not appreciate the review is a language barrier. I would challenge anyone, anytime, to find a more thorough and unbiased review of any tool, anywhere on the internet.

As per the inconsistencies in test cuts, again, perhaps a language barrier prevented the offended parties form actually reading the post, where he clearly, with a high level of detail explains how the cut went. That it went through the wood, it was just "ugly"

ug·ly (ŭg′lē)
adj. ug·li·er, ug·li·est
1. Displeasing to the eye; unsightly.
2. Repulsive or offensive; objectionable.

There that might help.

Thanks again Tinman.


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## Woodmaster1

Tin man I remember when schools use to have shop classes. I was a shop teacher for 25 years before they slowly processed them out. I now teach engineering classes but still would like to be back in the shop. Your review was great!!!


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## Charlie53

I have been considering both this and the "orange" saw. As a beginning woodworker with limited experience, your review has definitely swayed my decision. Thank you for the detailed review.


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## keninblaine

I just noticed that Lowes has lowered the price of the 36-725 from $599 to $569. A "new lower price".


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## Rayne

This was a great review. I wish I saw this before I put mine together, but I just went with the flow and used whatever bolts I could find that wasn't used in the rest of the instructions. I haven't tuned or aligned my saw yet; will try tomorrow, but hoping everything is aligned, minus the riving knife, which I know is already out of alignment. I do have one question though…the instructions were specific about the paste wax going ONLY on the unprotected CAST IRON. You mentioned to put it on Everything; does this mean the steel extensions as well? I've never done that part before (which would explain the "stickiness" of my old $80 Ryobi saw) and want to make sure I put that on right. And do you put the paste in the miter slots and the miter gauge as well? Can't wait to get my Garage shop organized to begin using this saw regularly and make some much needed jigs.


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## thetinman

Rayne,

Thanks for your comments. Yes, I mean wax everything and not just the cast iron. The instructions on page 29 are under "Lubrication and Rust Prevention" and say to wax the "table". I personally recommend that wax be applied to the cast iron table, the painted table wings, the miter gauge bar and even the aluminum fence. Waxing the table includes the miter slot. Just a thin buffed out coat is all that is needed periodically. It is what I was taught when I was young and have always done it. This keeps pinesap, etc. from sticking to anything and allows a quick wipe down to keep everything slick. I have never seen this written anywhere but, as I said, I've always waxed it all and it has worked for me.

I will be writing a follow up review in about 2-weeks now that I have built a desk and some jigs/fixtures, etc. I have continued the review process while I have been using the saw.


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## Ttier315

Tinman, 
I have the same Delta and I'm determining how to add table extensions. I'm curious if you have thought about it or if you may have already built one. Thinking of using some aluminum angle iron for support with some MDF and hardboard as my surface. Probably build a router base into the left side extension as well. What do you think?


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## Ttier315

Sorry, I meant right side


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## JoeinGa

When I get my new shop built I've been thinking of adding a tablesaw (because I've NEVE owned one). Much as I'd love to find and buy an older cabinet saw, this Delta could very well be within my budget after getting the building up. I'm gonna favorite this and it will surely help when the time comes…. Thanks for the thorough write-up.


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## thetinman

Ttier315,

Yes I've thought about adding a table extension/router station. In fact, that is my next project with this saw. I am planning it out now. I am retired so I work when money arrives. On the surface that is a hardship. The reality of my new "retarded" life is that it allows me to REALLY plan something out. It gives me time to think out and to combine projects.

My table extension will be on the right side. It will not be just a table with a hole in it for the router. It will be a top for the router (table extension), a cabinet with shelves to hold my saw fixtures, and a "muffler" box for my shop vac. I saw an article a while ago and I think I can get my loud shop vac down to conversation volume. Being on retirement income, money puts me less than "Harry Homeowner" in immediate capability. Being a retired engineer puts me as "desperately creative". I have it in my head and think I can pull it off with 2 sheets of plywood, a few scraps and a bit of hardware - like you said, some aluminum angle iron, some basic wiring, etc. Basically, about $100 to do the basics. I can always build onto it as money and time permit. If you can wait a couple of weeks I'll post what I have done.

Ttier135, Joein10asee, and all you "Harry Homeowners",

I have made my tenon jig and my taper jig. Both I consider essentials. I built them like I build all shop things - functional, built to last and affordable. No fancy gimmicks. I built my desk: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/98639

I'll finish my table out in about 2-weeks. At that time I will post my shop jigs and a follow up to this review. I have continued my review of this saw as I have used it and have more to add to the review. Every saw, every tool, has it's own personality. This saw is no different. What I will say is that I kept my old Craftsman table saw for over 20-years for the same reason I still have my old golf clubs - I could never "out play" them. After using the Delta now for various types of work/cuts, this saw is a dream compared to my old Craftsman. I know the word "dream" doesn't make sense to the Sawstop/Jet/Grizzly "big guys". But you budget guys/gals know what I mean. If you're cranking out thick maple all the time go with the "big guys". If you want to build some tables, boxes, shelves, or new woodwork, this puppy will do the job. In short, no buyer's remorse here. I'm more than pleased. This saw as out performed my expectations.

Terry


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## keninblaine

Terry: Thanks for your observations and comments here. Being another "retarded" engineer, I have found myself being drawn more to this saw for my fairly simple needs. It is easy for me to rationalize getting a "big guy" saw like the Grizzly 1023RL, but have to remind myself that my applications won't likely justify it. It isn't like I'm into high productivity volume work. The last 2 lines of your comments above suit my situation well.


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## Ttier315

Tinman, thanks for the update. I too am just a few short months from retirement and my goal is to at least collect all the "parts, supplies" I'm going to need to keep me busy for a time once I become a "house husband". I'm in no particular hurry to adapt my saw but I am anxious for your take since you have a particular aptitude that I don't possess. I'm sure I would kick myself if I built mine first. I'm sure you will have some adaptations that don't exist in my feeble brain. Thanks again


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## AntarcticTraveler

Hey fellas, just joined that group of retired old grey heads 3 weeks ago. Tom, welcome to becoming a house husband. Terry what a great review, thanks. Have been getting our home ready to sell, moving to Kent Island, MD. Really looking forward to setting up shop and making some saw dust. For about a year now I have, like a bunch of us, been reading many a review of the 'orange TS'. Not been too happy with what others have had to say about the blade alignment. Hopefully this Delta will be a better saw. You all have been a great deal of help. Looking forward to being a part of such a great group.

Gerry


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## Rayne

Thanks for the info Tinman. I've had to take care of other home related projects that demanded my attention, so now I can do the alignments and use the paste wax this weekend.


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## thetinman

Ken, Tom, Gerry and Rayne,
Thanks all your nice comments.

Tom - I just "acquired" some nice oak ¾ plywood from an Army friend. It's real plywood - like we remember plywood used to be. 1/8 inch oak on each face. I don't ask how he got it and he doesn't tell. It is from Denmark. I'll be making the router table/right side table extension from it. I've only got one sheet so I will be using a lot of scrap materials also to save this stuff. I don't know how you feel, but to me there is something wrong with using good wood for shop fixtures. But I won't look a gift horse under the tail.

Rayne - I wax everything now, even the side/front/back panels. I'll include this in my follow-up. The powder paint on the side panels is a static sponge for sawdust. Waxing them with Johnson's past floor wax makes the dust just fall off. Basically, wax everything except where you want grip not slip - like the miter gauge face. Sorry you were distracted by home/family issues but glad they were dealt with without taps. Uni, my wife, and I seem to be at that age where we have already said goodbye to everyone who raised us and now have started the cycle of saying goodbye to brothers, sisters and friends. Glad you did not have to endure that. Cycle of life I guess.

Ken - welcome to the "retarded zone". I think I know the feeling. I too have always wanted the "Big Guy' tools. Having 4 girls I found that raising them was an end to disposable income. With every hug from my little girls I could feel the money being squeezed out of me. I wouldn't change a thing. I cut mostly standard ¾ stock. I do cut 3-inch stock for table legs, etc. but it is not the constant diet for the saw - just a project necessity. I run a 50 tooth Irwin Marple blade as my norm. This saw has handled all my work better than my old Craftsman. If you don't plan on thick stock or high volume as your usage, I think this saw will work just fine.

Gerry - thank you. I'm flattered. Moving to Kent Island! Oh I just hate you. (Joke) I was a cop in PG county back in the early 70's and kept my sailboat in Annapolis right off the town circle farmer's market beside the Academy. I know the Academy is still there but do they still have the farmer's market on the circle? I know (or knew) the island well back then. There is (used to be) a cut on the west side of the island about a mile and a half south of the bridge -great striper fishing or just overnight anchorage. Nice people then - don't contaminate the place (kidding).

I'll post my fixtures, extension tables and review follow up in a week - week and a half.

Again, thanks for all the kind words.

Terry


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## AntarcticTraveler

Good morning Terry,
Too new to know much about a farmer's market next to the Academy. Haven't spent any time over that way yet. Know of that cut you mentioned, near Bay City I believe. Looking forward to doing some fishing as well. We have one grand daughter on Kent Island, I am sure she will 'encourage' us with each hug as your daughter's did with you. My shop toys list is long and resources shorter. Kno wut I mean Vern? Will need to wait to find out just how large (small) my future workshop will be. Just a few months now before the move. Looking forward to your TS update.
Gerry


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## ccerav

Tinman, Thanks very much for your great review! I just bought my saw today, and your review really helped me finally pull the trigger. The assembly info you provided was invaluable for getting me through the set up quickly. I did the whole thing by myself (thank God for clamps and a long straight edge!) A few hours, a couple of bad words during the alignment of the rails, and a couple of beers later…sawdust!

Since I am waiting for a replacement dial gauge, all of the alignment I did was using a 1/64th scale ruler and a digital caliper. The blade and riving knife were in alignment out of the box. After a few tweaks to the fence to square it up, I did a quick test cut using a 30" scrap piece, and it was within about .0025" so I'm a very happy camper!

I've been reading the info on this forum for quite a while, but only joined a short while ago. This is my first post. I'll be doing mostly reading and learning here as I am pretty new to woodworking. It'll probably be a while until I have anything of substance to contribute. So for now, I'll be on the sidelines absorbing the great info that this forum has to offer. Anyway, I just wanted to say thanks again for your review. Definitely one of the best I've read on any topic in quite some time.

Chris.


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## thetinman

Chris,

Thanks for your comments. The more comments - the more info for all readers. I'm glad the information was helpful to you and made the assembly and alignments easier. Using a rule rather than a dial gauge for aligning/checking alignment is a fine method. Been done that way long before dial gauges came along. Based on responses thus far to this post and elsewhere your comments about the blade being aligned out of the box is the norm. Only one buyer had to adjust it. But, you were lucky on the riving knife. Everyone else had to align it; not difficult at all.

If you're getting 0.0025 over 30-inches I'd call that dead on. Wood is not stable. That's a reading that will change if you breathe on it, stare at it too long or just part your hair differently.

Being new to woodworking keep watching this post. I'll be posting my follow-up review shortly after having used the saw for a few projects. The follow-up includes some maintenance and user tips. Since many of my old jigs/fixtures went with my old Craftsman saw I have had to build new ones. Given the responses from new woodworkers and weekend warriors, I've redesigned and built the jig/fixtures based on limited skills, tools and money. I'll post all of them at the same time in the hope of helping them get off to a run. Practice on the fixtures then use them to make better projects. To get you started, this is the link to a zero clearance plug. I posted it early due to the high number of questions.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/99601

Congratulations on your new saw. Stay safe and have fun.

Terry


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## ccerav

Terry,

Excellent post on the ZC plug. Made one last night. Works great. One thing I discovered, the stop collar slipped on the countersink bit, and I wound up going deeper than I planned. As a result the 3/4" machine screw I was using contacted the blade shroud bracket in the front of the blade, and I had to use a 1/2" screw to clear it so the throat plate would sit flush.

I'm looking forward to seeing your follow up and other jigs/fixtures. I'm putting together a cross cut sled tonight.

Also, I switched out the stock blade to a thin kerf Irwin Marples, and wound up having to adjust the riving knife. Other than cracking one of the set screws, it went smooth as silk. They must have put it in with an air impact wrench at the factory!

Thanks again for all the great info.

Chris.


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## thetinman

Chris,

Thanks for the info. I did say to use whatever screws/nuts you had laying around the shop and I confess I said to go for 3/4" because I knew they would work. That is my bad. They don't have to be that long. I should have said no longer than 3/4" but shorter is OK. As you pointed out, if you make a mistake and go too deep with the counter sink you could encounter a problem. I should have but did not anticipate that situation.

I've not been a fan of Irwin blades for a long time but I read a couple of reviews on the new Marples series and tried one myself. I'm now running an Irwin Marple 50 tooth combo as my standard. I love it. It beats the crap out of the Diablo blades I have been using. Less chips in the face. Maybe not for a purist, but for me the rip cuts are glue ready. The cross cuts are a little ruff but still better than the Diablo gave me. And it cuts plywood better than any of my 60 or 80 tooth blades. Which Marples are you running? What is your experience with it - if you've used it enough to tell yet?

Terry


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## thetinman

Chris,

I updated the plug posting to reflect your experience with going too deep on the counter sink and using shorted bolts. Thanks for your info. It's helpfull to everyone.

Terry


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## ccerav

Terry,

If someone else learns from my mistake that would be awesome! If I had been doing any anticipating myself, I would have set the depth on the drill press, which would have avoided the whole collar slippage thing. I have been using the countersink bit mostly with the cordless drill, and being a creature of habit, it didn't even occur to me until after I blundered. 20/20 hindsight! Oh well…live and learn.

I am running the Marples 80T Ultra-Smooth Crosscut blade. I've been cutting 3/4 oak and birch plywood, 4/4" oak and maple, and 3/4 melamine. I was running this blade for a bit on my Makita 2703 before I upgraded to the Delta. I have been very happy with it so far. Very smooth cuts. It was a huge improvement on the melamine, very little chip out for a clean edge (top and bottom). It does really well on the hardwood. Oak and maple look almost sanded, no swirl. Nice clean crosscuts on the plywood too. The rips aren't fast, but they are very clean. This was all before I did the zero clearance plug too. I don't know how it will hold up over the long run, but I am very satisfied with the results so far.

I'll soon be doing a cherry ottoman for my wife. The legs will be done with 8/4. So I'll see how it handles thicker stock shortly. It will be my first real attempt at a furniture project. I don't have a band saw or planer, so I'll be doing all the milling using a bench top jointer (a used Delta 37-070 in almost new condition that I just picked up for $100 off Craigslist) and the new Delta table saw.

Chris.


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## thetinman

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the info on the Irwin Marples blade. You're running an 80 tooth and I'm running a 50 combination both with good results. I don't think you'll have any trouble with the 2" cherry (8/4). The thickest/hardest I've cut was 2-inch "new" maple. I did run a test cut on some 2+ inch maple that was over a 100 years old. That stuff was like a rock and the saw labored noticeably. It looks like Irwin is coming back to woodworkers and not just contractors. (At least with the Marples series)

Just a tip on cutting Melamine. Chip out comes when the saw blade exits the wood on the bottom. I've had good luck by cutting a very shallow pre-cut, no more than 1/8-inch deep. This avoids the blade loading with chips/sawdust and allows it to cut rather than tear. Then I raise the blade and make the actual cut. Very little if any tear/chip out. I do the same thing with hardwood plywood. Another way is to use a razor knife to score the line before cutting. I haven't had much luck with this because it gives a fine cut on one side of the blade where I scored but leaves the other side ragged. I'm sure you could measure the final kerf of the blade to score both sides but I find a shallow cut is just easier.

Terry


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## wormil

If ripping thick stock, a rip blade will do so much easier than a combo blade. My Freud rip zips through woods that bog my Freud combo.


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## thetinman

Hi Rick,

Good point. Thanks. I was not clear when talking about using the 50 combo as my standard blade and also talking about ripping thicker stock. I shifted gears from talking about blades and then talking about the saw in the next sentence. Chris and I had communicated in a PM and I fell into the trap of talking in shorthand. That was not clear at all for other readers. Thanks for pointing it out.

I use a 24 ripper for thick hard stock.

Thanks again for clearing things up and keeping me on my toes.

Terry


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## Rayne

I just finished aligning my TS. I tried using a dial indicator and it kept telling me the front was closer than the back of the blade, but I eventually gave up trying to get it right (new to using it, so I may be doing it wrong). I ended up using a ruler and a dowel cut; I think it's close enough for my needs. I have to agree that this baby is super quiet. I didn't have to use hearing protection, which is amazing to me considering I came from an old Ryobi, cheap, vibrating, TS. 
One question though, the back of my fence is not flush with the table; either the padding on the fence is causing it or the back rail is too high. What's the easier fix?


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## thetinman

Rayne,

I'm not clear whether you are aligning the fence (to the blade) or aligning the blade to the miter slot. I think by the way you describe things that you are aligning the blade.

If you are aligning the blade a dial indicator is not necessary. Rulers, dowels, pieces of wood were used for centuries before dial indicators came along. The traditional way to align the blade is to just crack the trunnion bolts loose (don't do more than crack them loose). Tap the trunnions until the blade is in alignment. Retighten the bolts remembering to just snug each and move to the next repeatedly until they are all tight. A gentleman posted a comment about another method but has either since removed it or I simply can't find it. The following is an overview of alignments in general.

OK, I have read debates about aligning the fence to the blade so my methods may raise contention with some. So everyone, if I misuse a word or two please bare with me. I am describing how I do my saw alignments regardless of the brand. They have always worked for me. This is described in my saw review follow-up coming soon to a theater near you.

Assuming that the saw was assembled correctly:

1st: I check the tabletop. Using a straight edge, is the top flat? I've found sag in some of the aluminum ones but never in the cast iron. For the purpose of this writing, don't bother to check that the miter slots are square to the table. I have not found the cast iron tables to be out - but if they are so what? For these alignment purposes it is an irrelevant check and can lead to confusion later. For alignment purposes just assume they are square and that the left and right slots are parallel. This will become clearer as the alignment process continues.

2nd: Check that the blade is parallel to the left miter slot. Either slot works but the left is closer and it just makes sense to use it. Adjust if needed. Now we know that all 3 key elements are parallel to each other - left miter slot, right miter slot and the blade. This is the focus for alignment, parallel.

Once the blade has been blessed to be dead on or close enough for your work, never align the fence to it. Aligning the fence to the blade is a compensation measure for a blade that cannot be aligned properly. I find this to be improbable for this saw. All but one buyer of this saw has found the blade to be in alignment within 0.002 out of the box. Generally, this is considered dead on for most people who use this type of saw. It can be aligned to be dead on to meet the needs of a more precise user. Adjust/align only the miter gauge to be 90-degrees to the blade.

3rd: Adjust the fence to be parallel to the right miter slot all the way across the table. Either slot, but I work 99% of the time on the right so it's just easier to use the right slot. The fence will be parallel to the left miter slot and the blade if it is parallel to the right miter slot. DO NOT align the fence to be square to the front of the table. The saw works on the 3 key elements to be parallel (left/right slots and the blade). I have seen much confusion due to an owner squaring the fence to the front of the table and insisting the fence was square then asking for help when problems were encountered. No mater how much others try to help the owner insists the fence is square because it lines up to the front of the table using a big box store adjustable square. Think parallel. Do not think square.

Now Rayne, let's cover the fence not being flush with the table all the way across. To begin, fences do not sit flat on the table. Because of this users add "flush" temporary fences when working with thin stock such as veneers or Formica.

The back of the fence rides on a slick Nylon pad. The height is fixed by the height of the back fence rail. Besides adjusting the fence to be parallel to the miter slot (called squaring the fence), there is another adjustment called squaring the fence head. A bit confusing since you are not really squaring the head (the front part of the fence with the locking handle). These are the 2 nylon screws on top of the head. They are used to make the face of the fence square to the tabletop. Crank down (clockwise) on the right screw and the fence tilts to the left. Crank down (clockwise) on the left screw and the fence tilts to the right. You can use these two screws to raise/lower the front of the fence to have the same gap all the way across. Here you are compensating for any height discrepancy between the front and back fence rails. Just make sure you bring the left side fence face back to square to the tabletop when you're done.

I hope this info helps. Good luck.

Terry


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## btarb24

Thank you for the amazing review and the extremely detailed assembly writeup. The instructions do not match the supplied hardware very well. I got to the point of attaching the table extensions and gave up since i surely didn't have the 3x screws per side that they were saying to use. My cast iron top had 3 holes, but the center one was much smaller so i even questioned if it was drilled correctly. Your review saved me from calling in and requesting a 'missing' hardware pack. They really should start shipping an updated set of assembly instructions to avoid this confusion.

EDIT: I found that they supply an updated manual on their website. You can download it here: http://www.deltamachinery.com/downloads/manuals/table_saws/36-725/DELTA_36-725_Contractor_Table_Saw_Manual_Eng.pdf


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## thetinman

Hi BTARB,

I'm happy to hear that the info in the review was helpful to you. I'm aware of the new manual. It is a great improvement over the original but it is still in error on the riving knife adjustment and still no mention of blade alignment. I'll cover both off those in my follow up. The riving knife is not difficult to figure out. But if you've never had a tablesaw before aligning the blade can be a mystery.

Thanks again,

Terry


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## Rayne

Terry, 
Thank you for the detailed follow-up. I'm pretty sure my blade is within my tolerance for alignment to the left miter slot. I'll do a test later on to see just how far off I really am, but the ruler and my combination square seems to agree, so we'll see. As for the fence, it is parallel to the miter slots. I initially just used my fingers to adjust and then followed-up with a ruler for fine tuning and it's parallel to the right miter slot now. And you are right that the fence shouldn't be flush against the table; I'm not sure why I was trying to figure out a way to lower it, but it's not bad. I'll just raise up the front a little to even it out because I don't like the fence not being level. Now, for the fence being perpendicular, I have not checked that so thank you for mentioning that. I'll take a look at that tomorrow. I just started building my workbench, so we'll see just how good this saw cuts. I'll follow up with photos later on. Thank you again for all the responses.


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## LJackson

I can't believe I actually read this whole novel. I wonder how this compares to my Craftsman 21829. I like the top on this saw, with the miter gauge grooves. But, I like my sliding miter table, except that I still need to adjust it's height to the saw's table. Just a hair too low. I think I would prefer the iron table to my coated aluminum table. The coating is coming off. On the other hand, I think the iron would rust in my basement.

I wouldn't completely discount the Craftsman 21829 as a competitor to this saw in this price range. Being a color modification of the BT3100, which has a decent following, I think you can add "red" to the rainbow of table saws in comparison.

Now to go finish my beer.


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## thetinman

Ljackson,

At the beginning of this novel I state that no comparison will be made between this saw and the smaller, lighter portable job-site saws. I still don't make such comparisons. For that reason "red" is no comparison except for the price charged.

FYI, the novel is not over. The requested follow-up review has been posted.

Enjoy your beer.


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## david2014

Hello everyone,

I am woodworking and power tools newbie.

thanks thetinman and others for detailed information about this table saw. This is one of the models that I have been looking at.

My local HD and Lowe's do not take Harbor Freight's one day sale coupon


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## WoodPop

Considering this saw. I saw something about not working with a dado blade online. Has anyone found the plate and tried this?


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## thetinman

Woodpop,

A lot of nonsense has been said about this saw from plastic panels to not being able to use a dado blade and everything in between. In every case when the originator of the misinformation could be found I or other owners have been told "well that's what I heard" or "well I didn't really look at it - I just saw it from the isle and that's what I thought".

Of course you can use a dado blade. I use mine all the time, usually for 1/2 or 3/4-inches. The only issue is that, as a new design, accessories are hard to find. According to Delta a dado throat plate is in production but orders are on backlog. Making a throat plate is a simple task for any woodworker and this is certainly not a decision maker/breaker when deciding on a purchase.

You can read more about this saw.

There is also a follow up review at: http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3881

Also how I have dressed the saw so far: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/101376


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## birdb

What a great review of this saw. My wife says I can't have the SawStop cause my fingers aren't worth it, hmmm? Anyways I have to tone down the costs and I saw the Delta next to the Bosch 4100-09 in Lowes. I saw lots of good reviews for the Bosch and was leading towards getting it, but that Delta looked great. After searching the net I found your review. Nice. So whats the thoughts of the Delta compared to the Bosch 4100-09, they both are at the same price?


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## wormil

Unless you need to throw your saw in the back of a pickup and haul it from jobsite to jobsite, I would look past benchtop saws. They keep getting better but are designed for rough cutting 2×4s not woodworking.


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## thetinman

BirdB,

The Bosch is a great saw but, as I stated in the review, the Delta and the Bosch really can't be directly compared. The Bosch is a jobsite saw. As such it has a much smaller working table, slide out extensions (although you can now buy inserts), and a different type of direct drive motor.

You asked for MY thoughts so here they are. If I am going to be carting a saw around I'd pick the Bosch and know I was compromising in the name of portability. If I wanted a shop saw that was easy to move around (but not transport) I'd go for the larger, quieter more refined Delta. Larger capacity. Better miter gauge. Much better fence.

There is more written about the Delta on this site. Check out the links in the post just before yours.


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## birdb

Awesome. That's what I was wondering. Another consideration is the 5 year warranty for the Delta as opposed to a 1 year on the Bosch. Thanks for your thots! Can't wait to get it and follow your advice on assembly. Woo hoo!


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## WoodPop

Thanks for all the information on this saw. After posting my last request I did what I should have in the first place and read the manual (online) to answer my questions pre-purchase. I will make the throat plate easy enough. Either a wood one or get a spare and cut it out.
I don't know how many of you out there are veterans, but you can get another 10% off the best price if you have a veterans ID with your photo on it. That's a pretty nice discount at the blue store and the orange store across the board on all purchases.
I enjoy making furniture for family and friends in my shop from other peoples cast offs. I use hardwood flooring to make some really nice stuff and mostly get the materials for free. Just ask around the lumber stores for a few boxes left off from discontinued unfinished stuff and you will be surprised what you find for little or nothing. I also like Habitat restore.
Thanks again!


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## MikeThrockmorton

Hi Terry,

A farmer's market in Annapolis? Based on Google there is and I believe it, but that means I am truly am oblivious, like my daughters claim.

My wife and I found ourselves visiting there rather regularly for 4 years and I don't remember one at all, but I bet my wife does. We stayed occasionally at the Waterfront Marriott, which is right there, though I guess we stopped after it kept getting flooded (think canoes in the hallways).

Beautiful town, though it can be a real madhouse.


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## thetinman

Hi Mike,

I'm not sure there still is a market. I was a Prince George's County cop after I got out of the Army. I left MD and came to FL in '76. That was - well let's say more than a couple of days ago. There was a market right on the water at what used to be called the town circle next to the Naval Academy. Fresh veggies, fish and those wonderful blue crabs. If you find it's still there send me some blue crabs!

Terry


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## MikeThrockmorton

Hi Terry,

We don't get back there any more, alas.

Wife says that during our time there (2001-2005) the market was there and we walked through it on several occasions. There you have it: a) it was there at least up til 2005; and b) I am oblivious.

Miss the fresh crab. (here was good)

Mike


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## thetinman

Hey Mike,

Welcome to my world where the wife and daughters say you are oblivious. With a wife and 4 daqughters I have accepted that I am dumber than a sack of wet hair.

Terry


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## thetinman

OMG Mike - Chantlier's is still there????? Going south on the bay, hand a right (NW) at the low bridge at possum point and head about a mile up Mill creek just past - can't remember the name of the cove on the south side. Drink and eat till closing at 2-AM then either sleep in your boat or fight till the cops come. It's a good place now? Families go there? Strictly a fisherman's/bikers bar N grill back then. Know your way around and know the players or go to the hospital. That's the way it was back then. What a great place (I was not the same person back then). Bill must a gots edumacated. What is Bill now - 60 - 65? I wonder if he and his lady (can't remember her name) still own it?

You ordered a bucket 'O' shells (1 ½ doz crabs) and 2 smashers (crab cakes) back then. Of course you had beer - any kind you wanted as long as it was Bud. Total cost then was about $15 with 3 beers and the meal.

Terry


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## Ttier315

Wow Terry, you've got a skeleton or two too. Sometimes I cringe when people ask what I was doing 35 years ago. I just say I can't remember (which is pretty close to the truth) or, "it was a long time ago." Thankfully life can last long enough for us to grow up at our own pace


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## MikeThrockmorton

That's the place, though I've only come by land, which is NOT the way to get there. Very twisty at night.

Just past Martin's Cove I'd guess from the map.

It was there as of May, 2005. I assume it's still there.

We always went in a largish groups of military and family so, yeah, it was a family place at those times 

At the time, it had sturdily resisted gentrification (too hard to get to for the gentry I imagine) and still had your basic shack decor.

Mike


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## thetinman

No skeletons Tom. You hide skeletons. I was in and freshly out of the Army in those days and rode a 53 Indian with a 3-speed suicide shifter. When I wasn't on the bike I was living on my boat. What could they do to me - send me back to Vietnam? While I can't say who I was had any value I can say I needed to live it at the time. I've been a nerd for many years now and sometimes enjoy the memories of a different me.


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## GarySawWood

Tinman - awesome review…thank you! Question for you (or anyone else familiar with the 36-725). I have a Jet 3HP 50" cabinet saw that I have to sell because moving, and the shop will be smaller. So, I was looking at this as a replacement. The Jet really was overkill for me, but I loved it. I had the Bench Dog Promax cast iron router table extension http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-Tools-40-102-Extension/dp/B001TDLSUS/ref=sr_sp-btf_image_1_22?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1400945020&sr=1-22&keywords=bench+dog+router and the accompanying Prolift insert. Love the combo, and that is coming with me. I'm trying to decide if I would mount that on the left or right side. First thought was the right side, so it wouldn't create an overhang (as it would on the left side, I think), but the fence rail cross bar, and the rails in general seem like they would be in the way if it were on the right. This would replace one of the steel wings, and it looks like the depth of my Promax table is 16" (standard 27" width). What do you think?


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## GarySawWood

Also - separate question. With space a definite issue in my new shop, I originally was considering the Bosch portable saw because it would fold up. I don't need the full cutting capacity width the 36-725 offers. Would it be a bad idea, based on the design of the saw, and 2 piece rails, to cut them down to make the overall width of the saw shorter??


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## thetinman

Gary,

1st, the fence spreader bar on the right side is not an issue. It is there only because the table extensions are 10-inches. Adding anything (like another table) that keeps the fence rails from compressing when you clamp down the fence eliminates the need for the spreader bar. Both the left and right table extensions on the Delta are 10-inches by approx 27-inches.

2nd, you can cut the rails of course or simply not use the left (shorter) one and move the right one over. The hole spacing on the table does not care. Mounting whatever you choose after the modification is for you to address. The Promax you're talking about can pretty much drop in on the right side replacing the right table extension plus some. Cut off all you want on the right rail. In my experience (just that) the spreader bar is not needed if the "free space" is kept at about 10-inches or less.

3rd, (and not being snippy just realistic) what are you really saving? The Bosch (or any of them) does not fold up - it (they) folds down. You're only saving about 3-inches depth. What are you really saving in length with the cart handle and all on the Bosch? Compare that to what you are giving up. I have a friend with a Bosch. In the end he says 2 things. (1) he does not fold it up - he just moves it to the wall of the garage (so will this saw). (2) he's been sorry everyday he's owned it because it does less and not as well, and other than with a measuring tape, is not a REAL space saver against a wall. The Bosch is (IMO) the best jobsite saw because of weight and the EZ fold cart- not space saving.


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## GarySawWood

Great info, thanks Tinman! You're absolutely right on the Bosch. And the farthest I would move it, would be in my driveway. I'm sold on the 36-725! Going to try and get the Lowe's moving coupon and apply that towards the purchase as soon as I sell my Jet. Great idea on the rails!


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## birdb

I was able to use the HF 20% coupon this past Memorial Day weekend at Lowe's. I'm as happy as a lark, still pinching myself on the $120 savings. The saw is being held at the store until I can get my son to help me unload it and put it together. Love all the advice from tinmans reviews!


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## thetinman

Glad to hear about your good fortune. Keep us up to date on your experiences.


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## GarySawWood

birdb - they didn't give you a hard time that HF doesn't carry this saw? I asked the guy in the tool section at my Lowes here in FL and he was telling me that they will match discounts for the same item, but not general discounts at other stores or for different products. Wondering how you pulled it off. Thanks!


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## keninblaine

birdb: What was the list price of the Delta when you bought it. I just found today that Lowes has increased the price back to $599 from $549.


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## Deela40

thetinman
Your series of posts on this saw has been very helpful. I was leaning towards this saw and after I read your review, it solidified my decision. Thank you.

I am trying to get the rails set up, but am having an issue. When using the rail alignment gauge, it sits flat on the table and touches the outside of the rail, but there is a slight gap going back towards the saw as shown in the image below:










Is this ok? I have tried numerous times to eliminate this small gap, but have been successful. Is it possible that the angle iron isn't square or am I doing something wrong? If this is an issue, do you have any pointers on avoiding this gap?


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## thetinman

Deela,

You're not doing anything wrong with the gauge. Everything has tolerances so don't worry about that. Are they straight as though they are one piece? That's the critical thing.

Not to delve into something that may not be there. Maybe it's only the pic. But it appears that I can see the top of the hole above the first bolt head in the pic. If that is so then the bolt is not seated correctly and/or is not tight. You should not be able - in all saws I've seen - to see the bolt-hole around the bolt head. Like I said maybe it is just the pic. I know my camera sucks and shows things incorrectly. As far as the gauge goes, don't be concerned as long as the rails are straight.

Terry


----------



## Rayne

To those that are trying to use the HF coupons at Lowes in FL. Just try a different Lowe's, but call ahead, get the name of the person you spoke to that agreed to it, hold the Saw for you and you should be good to go. That's what I had to do after the first Lowe's told me the same thing. It's kind of good that I was forced to go to another one as the tax was lower there and at this price range, it made a small difference. I ended up using a 25% coupon HF had, so that really brought the price down to a level I wasn't expecting. I'm loving my saw and am glad I was able to find this review from Terry as stated in my previous replies. 
Here's actually my first real project on my TS. I would have never tried this on my old, vibrating, cheap, Ryobi table saw considering that some of these hardwood lumber were like stone…lol.


----------



## thetinman

Wow! Very nice Rayne. Post it as your first woodworking project. More will get to see your fine work that way.

Congratulations. Nicely done.

Terry


----------



## birdb

How has everyone used the 12 5/16-18 screws for the rails? Seems like there should be 16 where the instructions say to use four each. I called Delta, and the guy said just use 3 instead of 4. When I asked which holes he wasn't sure. Also, had a sharp metal from the cast table up at the 90 degree stop, guess I'll have to file that done so it doesn't scratch my wood. So far it seems like an excellent quality saw.


----------



## birdb

@GarySawWood - I was taken up to the service desk, I asked if I can use this coupon and the assistant manager looked it over and entered his key to override the price, no questions. Lucky?
@KeninBlaine - $599, yeah I just missed the $549 by a day, darn it.


----------



## MattMu

Great review! This pushed me over the edge to choose this saw over the Ridgid. No luck with HF coupon though… So far its been great! Dust collection is currently non-existent at the moment, but I think I might have bumped the shroud…. haven't been underneath it to investigate further.

I really didn't have to make many adjustments out of the box, everything was pretty square. This is my first table saw, and so far I have no complaints. Maybe as I play more I will come up with some…


----------



## ChipByrd

Just picked one up. Probably won't get it assembled before Monday.


----------



## ChipByrd

I have a question for anyone who has assembled this saw. I can't get the small union bar attached. The rails are on and nearly perfect, but I think the union bar (or fence rails) are milled incorrectly since it won't fit. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Chip


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## DaveTheDude

This review was fantastic and got me to buy the Delta 36-725. Had been impressed with it in person, and the review put me over the top. Quick question(s) for tinman:

How did you get your fence rails flush to each other? Mine have a gap no matter what I do. Looks like your rails are sitting flush right up to each other with no gap. Were you ever able to get the wings flush with the main table? And did you use bolts for all of the rail holes? It looks like they don't include enough of the shoulder bolts to do that.

I spent 4 hours last night trying to get just the front rail setup properly. Perhaps I'm being too picky, after all I am looking at my square and trying to get surfaces flush with no gap at all. I've been using the fence alignment gauge with a magnetic square, which helps a lot. However, like you said in your review, it's really a huge pain in the rear to get the bolts and nuts on with only two hands (while keeping the alignment gauge set so I can tell if it's moved out of alignment).

Going to pickup a six pack of Pike Place Kilt Lifter (excellent ruby ale) on my way home and try again tonight. I'm thinking perhaps it's best to leave all the bolts a little loose, get everything on, THEN do the alignments. Otherwise, I'm seriously considering picking up some 2"x2" angle iron and cutting/drilling some one-piece rails, because the split rails SUCK big time (as far as assembly goes).


----------



## thetinman

Dave,

Sorry for the delayed response. I'm out of town on a family medical emergency that is dragging out longer than hoped.

You are correct that my rails do fit together flush. If I may suggest some things I think it might help. 1st: IGNORE THE TWO SIDE TABLES FOR NOW. 2nd: attach both front rails to the cast iron table ONLY. Attach them snugly but loose enough to move. 3rd: attach the union strap to join the 2 rails together, It attaches on the bottom. Now use the alignment gauge to set the rails to the cast iron table. Do not over think it. Don't worry about the side tables. Use the gauge and set the rails to the cast iron table. This is the strength of the rails. The side tables just add more surface area for cutting.

Do the side tables AFTER the rails are set and tight to the cast iron. Align the side tables to be level to the cast iron table surface and tighten the bolts. Your rails have been set straight and the correct distance from the cast iron table surface for your fence system to be properly installed. Aligning the side tables to this surface automatically makes them correct. Remember you are working to arrive at a consistent distance (the gauge) from a consistent horizontal plane (the cast iron table). Achieve that and you are golden. Just don't over think it.

Enjoy your beer and good luck.

Terry


----------



## jacquesr

Hi,
New here. In fact I registered to thank you, tin man for all your hard work. GOOD job.
Was about to buy a Dewalt 4791 RS…. then decided to go with the Bosh because accessories are available (in/out feed tabled, dado/zero inserts and they are not for the 4791…. Even order them already… 
Decided after reading this thread to buy this one. I live in Montréal. Going to pick up one in Burlington, VT tomorrow.
Hope I am not disappointed when I see it in person (I met my wife over the phone 18 years ago… was not disappointed….) LOL

Noise level, lockable blade height, brake, fence, are the main reasons I choose this saw.

1) Has anyone replace the rail for one compatible with the Very Super Cool fence? For my, the fence is the most important item. I make small things and want the best possible accuracy (south of 2K)
2) Has anyone tried using the Incra Express sled?

I hope to make some contribution soon.


----------



## jacquesr

Inserts - Leecraft
Hello guys, I have a talk with Janet who handles sales of Leecraft inserts.
Good news - inserts for the 36-725 are next in line…
The more people email her to indicate their interest the sooner they might be available!
I have agreed to test them once they are ready.
Janet's email address is: [email protected]

P.S. I hope my post is not against the rules.


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## ChipByrd

I had called, too. I think you are right. Piling on might help .


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## ChipByrd

Actually, jacquesr, you might want to start a new thread.


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## Ttier315

Just sent my own e-mail to Janet Haungs and she replied that she will keep me updated as to the progress of the inserts. I think it's a good idea to pile on, just like ChipByrd mentioned


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## GarySawWood

Agreed. I did the same, and got the same reply.


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## DaveTheDude

Just wanted to follow-up and say that it was impossible to get my fence rails flush to each other. They were just simply not machined exactly square. How do I know this? Lasers! 

I'm also an engineer. Tend to be a little too picky at times. I was able to get my fence rails squared by using a 60" magnetic level and some clamps. As described by tinman, I first tightened the bolts closest to the center. Once I had snugged the first bolts finger-tight, I clamped the magnetic level to the underside of both rails. The strong magnet on my level instantly pulled the rails into a perfectly-straight alignment. However, it also causes the rails to droop slightly forward and away from the saw. This was resolved by simply pushing the rail flush against the face of the table while tightening the bolts.

I ended up using a the clamps and level for the side tables as well. Simply lay the magnetic side of the level against the cast iron saw table with the sides hanging over the side extensions. I then clamped the ends of each side table to the level, which straightened them out flush with the cast iron table. I then tightened the bolts for these as well.

It still is not perfect. It never will be. If you are overly anal about EXACT tolerances, as I am, STOP IT. It's a $700 saw, not a $2,000 set of custom heads for a drag-race motor. I got really darn close to perfect, with about a 1/16" droop on the outer left rear side of the cut-off side table. Not a big deal, and will have no effect on cut accuracy.

Once I fired this sucker up, and ran some 3/4" BB ply through it, OH BABY!!! Huge smile! High-fived my girlfriend who was just happy to have her parking space back (and not filled with scattered pieces of saw). Built a feed table in one afternoon, a rolling cart that I'm quite proud of. Cutting plywood is a cinch.

I've read some people criticizing the stability of this saw or whether it's heavy enough. Well, I was running 4'x8' sheets of 3/4" Baltic Birch ply through it. It never rocked, or shifted, and cut like a laser through butter (lasers! for the win!). All cuts are square. It rips plywood and maple lumber like Peter Paul Rubens painted fat chicks. Which is to say, it is verrrry nice. I keep coming up with excuses to use it.

The only remaining issue I've found is how to use my dado stack. I've got a 6" Freud dado stack, and got it all on the arbor, only to realize… what do I do with the riving knife? The manual says to remove it, with no instructions on how to do so. I've read elsewhere to put it in the non-throughcut position as shown on the riving knife. Tried this, but the top of the riving knife still sticks up enough to prevent me from getting a 3/8" depth on my dado. Darnit! Anyone got ideas on that?


----------



## Ttier315

You should be able to grip the riving knife and push it to the right which disengages it from the pins that hold it in place. When disengaged, pull it up and out. On mine, the only thing holding it in place is a bit of tension from the lever to the right. It can be put back basically the same way
I had the same problem when I was making a crosscut sled. The manual doesn't help much other than to tell you how to adjust it if it becomes out of line with the blade. There may be another way and it's entirely possible that I'm not doing it right either but that's what works for me.


----------



## bob303

I purchased the 36-725 about a month ago and have had a very good experience so far. I am not a professional but a part time garage woodworker trying to improve my tools and skills. I looked at several saws in the same cost class. I am impressed with the power as I have easily power through four quarter maple. Although I did get a much better blade. The mitre gage and fence work very good with a little adjustments. I am disappointed in that there an no zero clearance and dado throat plates. I have been told by Delta that they will be available by the end of September 2014. DaveTheDude where did you get a dado throat plate? Make your own?


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## jacquesr

I noticed that Tinman has not posted in a while.
IS everything OK with you?


----------



## jacquesr

Almost ready to pull the trigger, but…

I finally cleared up the space at home to set-up a small hobby shop.
After much research, the Delta is my choice…
Problem is… I can get enough Home Depot gift cards to get a Steel City 35990C with full cast iron wings…. for free.
I like the blade brake, and the smaller weight (small space in my basement). I saw the Delta at Lowes and I like how easy it is to move it around. I heard the SC on your tube… I seemed much louder than the Delta….
The fence is probably better on the SC, which is important for me.

Or… swing for a 36-5000? Overall I like the Delta, seems a more up-to-date product.

I also like very much that there are a lot of users of the Delta here.

Is there anything important I should know to help me decide?

Thanks all


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## wormil

My guess would be the fences are equal or Delta would have the edge, they make damn fine fences. Don't know much about the Steel City but free is a pretty strong motivator.


----------



## bluephi1914

thetinman

Great review…. I recently purchased my first table saw. The Kobalt KT1015 10 inch table saw and it was a good saw but didn't fit my needs. the entire extension table would move… or slip outwards if I ripped anything with weight (half sheet of plywood, 4×4, etc.) or put any type of pressure on the fence system that was attached to the extension table.

I am currently looking at this saw along with the* Bosch 4100-09 *and the* Dewalt 7490X*.... they all seemed to be the top saws offered at Lowes. I'm limited to Lowes because I have a gift card for a couple hundred dollars.

I know I might be comparing apples to oranges because those are portable saw versus, but I'm curious to know your thoughts or would love any input that you or anyone could provide on my upcoming purchase.
thank in advance.

My projects primarily consist of beds, tables, book cases, toy chest and cabinets. Pine, Maple, Cedar, oak


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## jacquesr

bluphie,
Not sure the tin man will reply - I havent seen him for a while (I am even getting a bit worried).

I spent all summer doing these comparisons with the exact same saws, enough to get sick.
The Delta is the absolute best option of the three IF you dont need to store the same all the time. Period.

Here is how you can save 10-20% on your saw, 100% guaranteed.

A) Buy a 10% coupon on ebay like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Lowes-10-Off-Coupons-Save-up-to-1-000-per-coupon-/181517534379?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a4349c4ab

They work, I bought one yesterday.

B) Buy discounted gift cards here:
https://www.raise.com/buy-lowe-s-in-store-only-gift-cards

There are many sites. Make sure to pick the "ecode" so you can place your order online with Lowes.com

If you ever buy at Home Depot, it is even easier to buy discounted gift cards - 10% off.

PM me if you need help.


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## bluephi1914

I appreciate the response jacquesr

researching these saws can be nerve wrecking to say the least…. especially when your a beginner like I am. I am going to purchase a coupon… that will be another $50-$60 off

I hope tinman is doing ok, I see that its been a while since he has posted.



> bluphie,
> Not sure the tin man will reply - I havent seen him for a while (I am even getting a bit worried).
> 
> I spent all summer doing these comparisons with the exact same saws, enough to get sick.
> The Delta is the absolute best option of the three IF you dont need to store the same all the time. Period.
> 
> Here is how you can save 10-20% on your saw, 100% guaranteed.
> 
> A) Buy a 10% coupon on ebay like this one:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Lowes-10-Off-Coupons-Save-up-to-1-000-per-coupon-/181517534379?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a4349c4ab
> 
> They work, I bought one yesterday.
> 
> B) Buy discounted gift cards here:
> https://www.raise.com/buy-lowe-s-in-store-only-gift-cards
> 
> There are many sites. Make sure to pick the "ecode" so you can place your order online with Lowes.com
> 
> If you ever buy at Home Depot, it is even easier to buy discounted gift cards - 10% off.
> 
> PM me if you need help.
> 
> - jacquesr


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## GarySawWood

Finally got one! Used my 10% moving coupon, and picked it up today. The guy actually offered me the assembled floor model (same price)....I gave it some consideration, and was kind of liking the idea of having it ready to go when I brought it home! As I looked it over more though, the rail alignment was visibly off, who knows what kind of care was put into assembly, then I was thinking that it would be a better exercise in getting familiar with it if I did the assembly myself, and I know I'll do it right….so I created an extra 4-6hr project for myself!


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## gabe878

Great review. Couple of things. My short rear rail has a 3/16" bow in it. This is making things difficult to align. The long rear rail is smooth and straight. Being a perfectionist I want to take the saw back. Does anyone know if it's possible to get Delta to send me a new rail? 
Also, when I tighten the fence down close to the splice in the square tubing one side flexes slightly which is throwing my fence off in relation to the blade. Is this just the way it goes, or can I fix this somehow? 
Frustrated,
Gabe


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## jacquesr

Gabe - call Delta, as for Steve, the tech guy.
They will help. The bow might require a new part
For the fence, it is all adjustable.


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## bluephi1914

This saw is now $569 at lowes. I got mine this morning!


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## bluephi1914

$569 new lower price


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## jacquesr

Still $599 online….

I also checked with Lowes in Plattsburgh… 599


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## bluephi1914

> Still $599 online….
> 
> I also checked with Lowes in Plattsburgh… 599
> 
> - jacquesr


That's why I posted pics… This Lowes was in Atlanta Georgia… I went to a Lowes near my house (Douglasville) and they had it for regular price. I showed them the pics from my cell phone and they kindly matched the price. with the price match of $569 and the 10% Military Discount and raise 10% discount on my gift card I think I paid around 456.00 for this saw. Very Good day today

thanks to this forum I got a pretty nice deal.

thanks " jacquesr"


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## KellyShowLow

Very nice. Was at Lowes looking at the portable table saws. Not good. Saw this Delta. Have a 20 year old Delta. Want this new Delta. This review confirms the desire.

Love your writing style. No reason for this stuff to be dry is there?

I plan on keeping my old saw in one of my garage shops and this new one in the other. My great fear, now, is that I will either have to move this new saw back and forth or buy two. Thanks a bunch!

Thanks for the help.

Kelly


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## thetinman

My thanks to all for the comments both good and bad, and special thanks to all of you who have offered their knowledge and experiences to help others. I have been away for a family emergency in which we lost a granddaughter and for medical situations of my own.

I don't know how well I can keep up right now but I will be trying to get back in the groove as best I can. In the mean time, I am happy for your experiences and enjoy reading the comments and seeing the friendliness shown here even if I can't participate as I would like to right now.

Thanks to all

The Tinman


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## jacquesr

Good to hear from you Tinman.
I was getting worried.
Sorry to hear about these sad events.
Welcome back.


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## bob303

Has anyone found a zero clearance throat plate for this saw yet? Either by Delta or off brand. Thanks in advance for any direction.


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## jacquesr

Hi,
Not yet i think…. Try this in the meantime…

http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=51659&idcategory=3


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## btarb24

Have you considered making your own zero clearance plate? It only took about 30 minutes to make mine and i'm far from an expert.

1. trace the outside of the existing plate onto a piece of plywood
2. cut the shape out on the bandsaw or jigsaw
3. roughly mark the plywood oval where the 5 screw platforms are on the saw.
4. use a router to route all but the last 1/8" of material from those 5 areas.
5. My cast iron top had rough edge around the throat plate area so i also had to route away most of the material on the perimeter of my insert. This effectively gave it a 1/8" lip going all the way around the insert.
6. Take off your splitter
7. Raise the blade into the insert to cut the zero clearance slot
8. If you want to keep using your splitter then use a jigsaw to cut the slit longer to accommodate it.

Here's a quick image to demonstrate what i mean about routing the lip and routing away the 5 areas. It was super easy to do freehand with the router. This definitely doesn't need to be perfect since you'll use the adjustment screws to level everything out anyway.


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## thetinman

Hi Bob,

Here is a link to a ZC insert I made for the factory plate. I like it because it stiffens /straightens the factory plate. I assume that any factory ZC plate I buy will still be the thin stamped sheet steel just like the original. I made the one-off as described in the post for a 90-degree ZC insert first. Then I cranked out a half dozen on a sheet of ply as I describe at the end of the post. Super simply. Super easy. Super fast. Now I have a ZC plate for 90, 45 and 30-degrees and a few spares for the odd things that come up.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/99601

I made a wooden ZC plate first, just like Btarb did. BTW, very nice job Btarb. And, very nice description. Thanks for sharing. My oak ZC plate, made just as Btarb describes, is seen in the pics as I'm making the ZC plugs for the factory plate. I now use that wooden plate and another that I made for ZC 3/4 and 1/2-inch Daido work.

Making ZC plates and ZC plugs are not daunting tasks. Making a rabbit around the perimeter and routing out for the flange nut and motor may seem like technical challenges at first glance, especially if you're fairly new and have never attempted such things before. Just know they are not and go for it. Stick the factory plate to a piece of wood using carpet tap. Use a bearing bit in your router and get the outline for the plate. You know that will fit. Or simply use a bandsaw or jigsaw as Btarb describes. The rest is primarily eyeball. Place the cutout in and just mark everything with a pencil. Now just freehand the stuff you need gone. Btarb did a wonderful job. But remember, you NEED functional not pretty. Just don't post a pic of the bottom of your ZC plate. That can come later when you get used to doing things more routinely and make another.

The point is to have fun and be safe while doing it. What do you have to loose except a piece of scrap wood? If you screw it up just cut a push stick out of the screw up and don't tell anyone. Post the push stick and brag about your genius.

Terry


----------



## bluephi1914

finally assembled my saw this evening.i must say that it has the absolute worst assembly instructions that i have ever seen. No pictures of screws to reference, the pictures of the saw aren't depicted accurately. you spend allot of time trying to match up screw names with the screws in the box.

that being said, after i finally got it assembled, i am pleased and all is forgiven. the motor purs, much quieter than i expected and much quieter than any saw i have previously used.plenty of power. the craftsmanship is excellent in my opinion. no misaligned screw holes, no meal burs stopping screws from lining up properly.


----------



## jacquesr

Guys - check out this video before stating assembling.





It can help a lot figure out general guidelines.
Thanks


----------



## birdb

Has anyone had problems with the antikickback pawls? I have to remember to check the left pawl that it hasn't slipped into the throat slot. It does that often and if I miss pulling it out of the slot the wood piece will stop cause it won't align with the splitter. Argg, drives me nuts. Anyone have a fix? Thanks.


----------



## thetinman

Birdb,

I've never heard of such a thing if everything is straight and adjusted correctly. The only exception I've seen was a guy who thought he should use extra blade stiffeners/washers on the arbor shaft -both sides. This moved the blade out (right) and forced him to move out the riving knife so much the left pawl would fall into the slot.

Check that the riving knife is not bent (easy to do unknowingly) and that it is aligned properly and tight. Take out the knife and lay it flat on the saw table. Slight inadvertent bending occurs typically right above the holes. That moves the top out by a square factor - one of those hypotenuse things. But, I must say that a bend like that would have made adjusting the knife very difficult unless you are using a wide blade. Also, check that the knife is correctly adjusted and tight. I'm zeroing in on the riving knife because that's where the pawls mount. And the spacers/washers holding the pawls makes them quite stable.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Terry


----------



## bluephi1914

Just out of curiosity what is everyone using to test blade alignment, etc. Something like this?










Unfortunately none of the big box stores have anything like this


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## bluephi1914

Rockler wood is the only place locally that has something like this


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## birdb

Terry, Thanks for the reply. I have not had any trouble with the riving knife and it is straight. On another note, are the pawls offset? Meaning, my left pawl is shorter than my right pawl. I know that sounds like a personal issue, ha. But that seems to be a large part of the left pawl falling into the slot.

I'll have to order me one of those alignment devices, I just used a ruler. Thanks, Brad


----------



## thetinman

birdb,

The right pawl is longer than the left - about 1/2 inch or so. No I don't know why. Guessing, maybe a bit more sticking/grabbing for thin stock and narrow cuts since most cutting is done right of the blade? Possibly the slot in your plate is miss-located or wider. I suggest you get on the phone with Delta and discuss the situation. They've got a pretty helpful team there.

Regarding the dial gauge vs a ruler for blade alignment, The ruler/tape is just fine. One 128th of an in (1/2 of a 64th of an inch is .0008" or 8- thoussands of an inch. Can you measure that accurately let alone mark and cut? Wood being inherently unstable will not stay that size anyway. Now consider the alignment methods. Do you want to fuss with such tolerances? BTW, Delta now has a simpler method of aligning the blade. (I have no clue who gave them the idea/method) Call and they will e-mail it to you. In the future they'll probably put it in the manual - if they ever write a good one.

Sticks, rules and feeler gauges were around a long, long time before dial indicators. A dollar bill is about 0.004" thick. Try to slide a bill into the gap if you have a front/back gap on the blade. If it don't go then you're good to go. In my opinion anyway. We're looking for accuracy and safety in our woodworking. How much accuracy are we really capable of measuring, marking and cutting? How much precision does it take to get that? Not trying to start a firestorm here - it's just my opinion.


----------



## Ttier315

As usual, the Tinman has a way of putting everything in perspective.


----------



## wormil

> Just out of curiosity what is everyone using to test blade alignment, etc. Something like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately none of the big box stores have anything like this
> - bluephi1914


Make one, very easy and handy.


----------



## jacquesr

@ thetinman& Als
Here is the doc I received from Keith at Delta (Blade Alignment)

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/29106827/Delta%20Contractors%20Saw%2036-725%20Blade%20Alignment.pptx


----------



## thetinman

Thanks jacquesr,

I'm glad Delta has finally blessed and published this method. Note that Delta recommends alignment if the blade is more than 0.01 or one one-hundreds of an inch out (about 1/64) - not in the thousands of an inch. For those of you who do not have the latest versions of Microsoft Power Point, here is a link to a free download for a Power Point Viewer:

http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=6

For those of you who have been following the blade alignment journey to this point: This method uses the 2 rear riser tube screws only - not the front 2 and not the safety set screw. It also calls for moving the motor by hand and not a hammer. It may be a bit snug but it will move and it is safe for both you and your saw.

I was taught to use a dollar bill since I was knee high to a Bridgeport. Do what you feel comfortable with and capable of accomplishing.

Rick,

I saw your post on your dial gauge. Nicely done and properly used. Thanks, a friend and I used your design on a home made hand-cranked lathe we made from an old bench sander. We use it for break disks. Slow little cuts but it works great and retired labor time is cheap. As in many projects the inventing/building is more fun than the use.

For those of you who have never used a dial indicator/gage, keep in mind that the spring tension in some can be pretty stiff. I have one inherited from my dad (machinist). Breath on it hard and it registers. I have one from HF that actually deflects a TK blade. If you feel you need dial indicator precision then use it properly.


----------



## wormil

I bought my dial indicator for $12.95 plus a bunch of other stuff from https://littlemachineshop.com/ Small business, reasonable pricing and very fast shipping. I can't recommend them enough. It's the only DI I've used but it seems to work just fine. They sell more expensive (better) models but I figure this is good enough for woodworking.


----------



## thetinman

Gotcha Rick. They don't have to be expensive to be good. Several of my buddies have HF and they work just fine. No where near as stiff as mine. (Did I just say that?). Excellent point about woodworking precision as apposed to a machinist.

BTW I like the new happy pic.


----------



## ilyac

First, thanks for this excellent review. I am currently deciding between this one and the orange one and this is great information.

I have one question…does this have a soft-start?

I started with the Ridgid R4513, a 15A. Lucky for me I have a apt with an attached garage, but that also means I cannot do anything about only having one 20A breaker in there (see: extension cords for my shop var from my living room). The R4513 does not have a soft start and with the garage light on (my only source of overhead lighting) it trips the breaker, Once It's running it's fine, but I don't like starting my saws in the dark :/

The 'orange one' does, and that may be a make or break for my decision between the two 13A saws out there.


----------



## thetinman

ilyac,

No, the Delta saw does not have a true soft start. The caps on the motor do reduce the line load at starting but Delta does not "advertise" it as a true soft start. Here are the measurements I have found on my saw. I hope they are helpful.

Starting current: 13.2A (almost momentary). 
Running current (no load) 11.7A. 
Running current (3 1/2" stock): 12.8A

These are the current measurements I have found on my saw. All machines will have variances. I recommend a 20A circuit dedicated to the saw. However, the number of people running this saw on 15A lines is phenomenal. It may be the vast majority. Note that I hit 12.8A running 3 1/2" stock. The feed was slow and steady with a good sharp 22TPI blade. You can exceed this by forcing thick/hard stock but that would not be good for the saw, the blade or the quality of cut. If you hold a high current for long you'll pop the breaker in the motor. I forced mine to pop and measured 14.3A when it went.

I agree with you about starting the saw in the dark. Even if the saw is run on a 15A circuit, I recommend it be a dedicated circuit. Popping a breaker on a shared line while cutting leaves you in the dark with a still spinning blade.

I hope this info is helpful to you.

Terry


----------



## ilyac

Thanks for the very detailed info. Unfortunately a separate circuit it basically impossible, but I do work with my garage door open (both for additional light, but also for dust), typically only working during the day because of noise reasons, so even if I trip a breaker I would still have light.

Based on my what I can tell with the R4513 I am right on the edge, so the 2A buffer would be enough to let me safely use the saw for all but the most demanding cuts (as someone still getting started I don't see a lot of this, but you never know, and as you said it would be at the cost of my blade and cut quality). If it continues to be an issue when I get this (or the R4512, still on the fence) I will have to figure out a way to set up lighting run from inside the, maybe somehow mounting a bunch of portable work lights…

I got this apartment specifically so I could set up shop in the garage, so come hell or high water I intend to stick with that plan.


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## GarySawWood

I finally got around to assembling it, and really anxious to use it. Clearly I need to go back and read the comments and help here. Hit a snag at the end of the assembly, and hoping for some feedback. I shot a quick video…basically I can't get the fence guide (I think I called them guide rails, but you get it) to align properly for the mounting screws to the rail - starting to make me questions the rest of the alignment. Let me know what you guys think! Gary

Assembly issues on 36-725


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## jacquesr

Hi,
Just assembled mine yesterday.
My suggestion is simple…. loosenup everything. Your problem will probably go away once parts can move just a bit to get where they should be.

Keep us posted


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## GarySawWood

Thanks Jacquesr - yep, that did it. I didn't have to loosen the split rails, but rather was just more careful on the fence guides, and getting the screws started before snugging them up. There is still a slight gap between the guide pieces…but its MUCH better, and I think I'm just being anal at this point. Very happy…after an initial test cut (and coming from a cabinet saw), I definitely need to get another blade, and read up on making a ZCTP…but this thing is SOLID!


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## jacquesr

Hello Gary,
Check this out…
http://www.lowes.com/pd_645951-34340-36-502_0__?productId=50273911&Ntt=
http://www.lowes.com/pd_645955-34340-36-501_0__?productId=50273917&Ntt=


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## John_Jason

I have read this thread all the way through and I think I am going to buy the 36-725. I liked it from the first time I played with the display model at my local Lowes. Its only competitors for me are the Craftsman 21829 and the Ridgid 4512.

I went to a Sears store and looked at the 21829. Not impressed. The miter gauge was sloppy and no way to adjust it, and the fence wasn't at all as good as the Delta. And the overall fit and finish reminded me of 1970s Detroit iron - nothing fits. The only plus I can give it is that the base seemed sturdier.

The Ridgid is still in the running for me, but mostly because I can't get my hands on one to look at it. There are half a dozen HD stores within driving distance and all of them have it in stock, but not one of them has it on display for me to check out in person. I'm not paying $5-600 for a saw without seeing it first. Yeah, I know, HD will take it back, but that's a pain for both of us.

While playing with the Delta at Lowes I notices that they had a Porter Cable PCB222TS on display, and its blade guard, riving knife and pawls are identical to the Delta. Are these the same company now?


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## wormil

The Ridgid has known alignment problems going back to the previous generation, just something to consider.


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## John_Jason

I found a history page about Delta and sure enough, Porter Cable is Delta. But at the bottom of the page was the news that in 2005 Black and Decker bought the whole operation. This is worrisome. Hopefully they won't milk Delta by making cheaper and cheaper junk that they can still sell for high prices because of Delta's reputation.

Meantime I have crossed the Ridgid off the list because there are no HD stores that have one on display, plus looking at the specs I think the Delta is what I want.

My only question is whether I should dig deeper into the bank account and go for the Delta 5000 ($1065 at Lowes). The only difference I can see from the specs is that the 5000 has a 15 amp motor. That's not worth $465, but maybe there are other goodies that I am unaware of.


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## John_Jason

I did it. There is a 36-725 in the back of my pickup, backed up to the garage door.

I had been waiting and waiting for Lowes to e-mail me the 10% off coupon that I requested nearly a week ago. It's supposed to take 2-3 days, so today I went to my local Lowes to see if there was anything they could do. An employee got me the manager who was unable to do anything about the coupon, but she offered me 10% off right then and there if I would open a Lowes credit card. I resisted because my wallet is already overflowing with cards that I don't need, but when she told me that the card would always automatically give 5% off I gave in. There is no tax here, so the total came to $539.10.

Now all I have to do is figure out how a single guy living alone like me is going to get it out of the truck.


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## keninblaine

Just put some 8' 2×12 planks from your truck bed down to the garage floor and slide the box carefully down. Be sure to fix the planks so they don't shift. I always like to let gravity do the lifting and I do the maneuvering. Over the years I have handled a lot of big heavy awkward items single handedly by applying some ingenuity.


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## wormil

> I found a history page about Delta and sure enough, Porter Cable is Delta. But at the bottom of the page was the news that in 2005 Black and Decker bought the whole operation. This is worrisome.
> - John_Jason


Whatever page you were reading is way out of date. Delta is owned by one of the largest machine manufacturers in the world, Chang Type, out of Taiwan. Delta HQ is in the US. Porter Cable is still owned by Stanely/B&D.


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## John_Jason

> I found a history page about Delta and sure enough, Porter Cable is Delta. But at the bottom of the page was the news that in 2005 Black and Decker bought the whole operation. This is worrisome. - John_Jason
> 
> Whatever page you were reading is way out of date. Delta is owned by one of the largest machine manufacturers in the world, Chang Type, out of Taiwan. Delta HQ is in the US. Porter Cable is still owned by Stanely/B&D. - Rick M.


Indeed, you are correct. The page I was reading was on Porter Cable's web site. They also referred to Porter Cable and Delta as "sister companies." That Delta has been owned since 2011 by Chang Type makes it even more interesting that the blade guard and knife on the Delta 36-725 and the Porter-Cable PCB222TS are identical. They must have cross-licensed the patents previously.

While shopping I called a local woodworking machinery dealer. The salesperson I was talking to said that they did not sell Delta and told me that they did not do so because Delta is in financial difficulty and if I bought one I might find myself without parts in the future. I discounted this as sales talk. But it made me search a little more for parts. It seems that Delta uses ereplacementparts.com for parts sales. And indeed, ereplacementparts.com does list quite a few parts for the 36-725. But if you go there be prepared for a shock. Here are some examples:
Guard assembly $289
Riving knife assembly $183
Motor assembly $1258
If you need anything serious it might be cheaper to give the saw to the metal scrappers and go buy a new one.


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## thetinman

John_Jason,

Bad reputations, or even rumors, are almost impossible to get rid of. Good reputations can be can be killed by one bad experience - especially in today's Internet world. Once posted means always there.

Instead of being led by others, go search Delta's financials. They are doing fine now. What company has not had financial problems in the last 10 years? Combine that with Delta's costs of fighting off the likes of Black and Decker. As Rick pointed out, they made a strategic merger a couple of years ago and are coming back strong. Take a look at all their new product listing and the great reviews by owners.

Now add Delta's customer service to the picture. I've contacted them countless times since I first posted the review. I've always gotten the best of service and advice. Read some of the threads about problems. Even missing/damaged parts were responded to very quickly with rush free delivery to their doorsteps.

You were considering the Rigid saw. Look at their customer service. Rick pointed out their long history of blade alignment problems. They had two responses. The first was to do absolutely nothing because they had no competition. When Delta came out with this saw they finally offered a fix. That fix was to send the owners the parts and tell them to press them on with 10K presses themselves.

Lastly, look around the Internet. Just type in the Delta part you want and search. Parts are available from many places for a lot less than the site you were directed to.

Terry


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## jacquesr

Well said Terrry.
I concur fully.
Chang Type Industries has invested some serious money in that new product line.
It is not a rehashed tool like 90% of the the other saws.
I knew nothing about the world of tools 18 months ago.
I quickly realized that in most cases all that we buy is a badge…
This saw is a new, modern, design. I am very please with it.
It is a real table saw.

And Delta's service has been stellar. Every time.

They have my vote - not for all products mind you though.

Thanks


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## wormil

> ... they did not do so because Delta is in financial difficulty and if I bought one I might find myself without parts in the future.
> - John_Jason


Not to beat a dead horse but those rumors are rampant a year or two ago and the source was always 'a woodworking store' that also happened to be a Powermatic/Jet dealer. 'Coincidentally' PM/Jet did almost go bankrupt shortly after those rumors started and were bought by a group that historically dismantles bankrupt companies. Though I do not believe their intention is to dismantle Powermantic. In my opinion it was a case of projecting your own weakness on your competition, a strategy that works well in politics.


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## thetinman

Rick,

Thanks for all of your insight. Reading over many of the things we have written makes me wonder if people might label us as Delta reps. Awe what the heck. For someone who bought a wobbler dado blade years ago I get to brag when I do something right.


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## John_Jason

I'm making progress, but not quite there yet with my new 36-725. By 10 am I had the saw out of the truck and was beginning assembly. I used Terry's assembly instructions exclusively; I never even looked at the assembly instructions in the manual.

Like others found, the holes in one of the side panels were 1/16" off or so, and one of the holes was smaller than the other three. Not sure how they managed that in the manufacturing process, but a quick application of a slightly larger drill bit and the panel went on fine.

Every thing I have read says you will need another person to help set the saw upright. I have always considered myself a wimp in the muscle department, but I just lifted it up without even straining. It was nothing compared to getting the box out of my pickup, which took me nearly half an hour and a fair amount of cursing.

An extra tip: Have a magnetic picker-upper and a flashlight handy for when you knock a bolt into the blade opening. Better idea: Install the throat plate first thing after setting it upright.

A small update to Terry's instructions: The side extensions on mine have three holes and there were three bolts for each side. While attaching them it occurred to me that it would have been easier if I had attached them, at least loosely, while the saw was still on its side. However, having three holes and three bolts may not be an improvement. Terry says "Just keep fine-tuning and everything will come out right in the end. It sounds worse to describe than to do. Just take your time here." I spent nearly an hour trying to level the side extensions before concluding that the holes simply don't line up. It's impossible to level the side extensions to the table, even without the rails on. I think I'm going to have to grind or drill the holes a bit larger, but that will have to wait until tomorrow morning. I've had enough frustration for one day. More later.


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## thetinman

John_Jason,

I encourage you the use the owner's manual for overall instructions and my write-up for helpful tips Along the way. My suggestions are tips based on my experience assembling and adjusting my saw. They are not intended to be a full set of assembly instructions. Using my assembly tips as instructions can cause you to prematurely tighten bolts. For example, tightening the leg assembly before you attach the side panels can result in the holes not lining up.

The original saw had 3-holes in the cast iron table for the side tables. However, the middle hole was much smaller and only the 2 end holes were used. Designs change.

No you should not attach the side tables until the saw is upright. The sheet steel tables will just flop around and bend the heck out of 90-degree mounting flange.

Again, using the owner's manual, you see that the side tables are first attached to the cast iron table. I recommend that you install/align the front/back rails before you attempt to adjust the side tables. You may even not bother to attach the side tables until the rails are on. Once the rails are installed and adjusted correctly, loosely (finger tight) attach the side tables to them before you try to adjust the side tables. This will help support them.

Here is the critical point: the rails are the key to the saw. Get them right before you align the side tables. If the rails are correctly mounted and adjusted to the cast iron table then the ends of the rails (sticking out in space) are correct. Now adjust your side tables to the cast iron table only. Ignore the alignment gauge for the side tables. The key is to have the side tables flush with the cast iron table and, using a straight edge, flat/flush to the cast iron all the way out to make a continuously flat surface. If the rails are correctly mounted and correctly adjusted to the cast iron table then the side tables will automatically be correct to the rails when adjusted to the cast iron table.

My comments about taking your time and continually fine-tuning was the result of my experience working alone, like you are. You have bolts to the cast iron table, bolts to the rear rails and bolts to the front rails. You can't hold a side table flat/flush to the cast iron and tighten nuts and bolts at the same time. It becomes a routine of snug a bolt and bump the table. It can be done with patience.

You have nothing written in your profile so I do not know your age or your level of experience. I will simply say to you what I say to others (no insults intended) - don't take short cuts and don't do something different that you may think is the equivalent/same thing. It invariably leads to problems, like holes not lining up or worse. It seems to always lead to at least unnecessary frustration and unnecessary complaints. Use the owner's manual as instructions. Use my tips as just that - tips based on my experience. Use your experience and common sense when you run into trouble. Most of all use patience and ask yourself: "is this is a flaw or have I missed something".

Terry


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## John_Jason

It's finished. 

One of the side extension tables has a bolt at each end, but none in the middle. The middle hole was off 3/32" or so and I was tired and didn't want to bother taking it all apart again to ream it out so the bolt would fit. It's perfectly level and two bolts seems like enough to me. As I mentioned before, it is impossible to level this extension to the cast iron table using all three bolts as shipped because of the center hole. Also, the spreader has only three bolts at the moment because I am short one bolt. Although I always use parts trays when assembling something like this it's still probably my fault. It'll probably show up when cleaning the area.

I didn't have a nickel in my pocket, but I had a penny, and it passed the test. It's nice and quiet too; something that I appreciate.

The saw and a shop vac are both plugged into the same 20A circuit. No problem, but the shop vac slows way down while the saw is starting up. This is a temporary situation in my garage. I have a 14×20 foot shop behind the house and once I move it there they can be on different 20A circuits.

I do wish it had a 15A motor. The 13A works fine but if I am making a big cut I have to be really patient, e.g., ripping a 2×4 on a 45 degree bevel. The cuts are accurate and so smooth I won't need to sand them, so taking a bit more time is a trade-off that I am happy to make.

And speaking of accuracy, the fence is perfectly parallel to the miter slots and the blade. I don't have a caliper gauge like I see others here have used, but it's plenty accurate enough for me. Also, the blade is perfectly square to the table, whether raised all the way up or partially. When I looked at the bevel gauge on the front of the saw at first I thought the gauge was off; that is the blade was perfectly square to the table but the gauge read about 1 degree instead of zero. Then I moved my head down to look closer and when my eyes were straight in front of the hairline it was right over zero. There is a gap between the hairline piece and the 0-45 scale so you have to be sure you're looking at it square on to read it accurately.

The only adjustment I needed to make was the miter gauge, which was out about half a degree. This took some time to puzzle out because evidently there has been another design change. The picture in the manual shows the detents in three separate sections with two screws in each for adjustments. On mine all the detents are in one continuous half-circle piece with three screws holding it. I loosened all three screws and then adjusted the 90 degree detent to the miter gauge slot with a square, then tightened the three screws. This automatically adjusts the 15, 30, and 45 degree detents as well.










Many thanks to all for your help and patience.


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## jacquesr

@John_Jason
Are you using a thin kerf blade?
Are you using the stock blade?


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## John_Jason

> @John_Jason
> Are you using a thin kerf blade?
> Are you using the stock blade?


I am using just the blade it came with. I am planning on buying the Dewalt combo pack for $40 that others here have mentioned will not cause binding on the riving knife. In fact I would have bought them at the same time I was buying the saw but Lowes was out of stock.

Unlike others here I rarely make furniture, but I do a lot of finish carpentry with custom moldings, hence my need for a saw with decent accuracy. Here is an example of a molding design:










The angled piece at the top is 1 1/2" by 1 1/2" on a 45 degree angle, ripped from a 2×4. The top and bottom filler pieces are 1/4" by 1" and 2 1/2" respectively, also ripped from 2×4s. I have a small but highly accurate miter saw that I keep in the room where I am putting up the moldings on the job site, so I just make the pieces I need at home with the Delta and bring them with me.


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## Bezoar

Hi, wanted to thank tinman for his review. I have been following for about a month and bought my first table saw -a delta 36-725 today. Got most of it together tonight fairly easily thanks to all the info. Have one issue I have not seen any comments on. When I raise and lower the blade, there is a ratchety/cogwheely bumpy feel on the wheel. The angle wheel is very smooth. I looked under the saw and the wheel has a 45 deg angle gear at the end which moves another 45 degree gear attached to the screw that raises and lowers the blade. The only thing I can figure is that the two gears do not join cleanly causing the bumpy action. I am not sure how to adjust this. It seems to work OK, just not smooth.

Thanks again for all of the info tinman and everybody else has input, it has been very helpful and is much appreciated!


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## jacquesr

@Bezoar

I suggest you contact Delta customer service. they are usually quick to answer.


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## Bezoar

I called them, they had never heard of this issue…..I guess I have to take it back


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## wormil

Try calling again. Phone reps are a lazy sort and will often pretend ignorance.


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## NikkNN

Bezoar,I just got this saw and had the same issue. The front panel just above the miter Guage was caught on the wheel shaft/handle. Just had to give a little push right on the miter Guage and it popped free. Hopefully that's all it is on your too.


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## NikkNN

Big thanks to thetinman for this excellent review and advice, and to everyone else for the helpful comments. Again, I just got this saw, and I had to assemble it by myself. Being blessed with only two hands, I opted to call on all the clamps, scraps, and straight edges for help, as usual. I just made a very simple little jig to hold the supplied gauge upright. Then I wanted a way to get the wings flush and level on their own, so I used plywood scraps to give them support from underneath. Once they got close to level with the table, I slid sheets of thick paper under the scraps one by one as a kind of micro-adjustment until they were perfect. Before tightening down the rails, I sandwiched the wings and the table together by clamping a straight aluminum channel on top to the underside of the wings. I used small wood blocks underneath because my small clamps wouldnt reach. I just made sure to leave some clear room on the end of the wings for the gauge. This all made attaching and aligning the rails very quick and easy, and Im very pleased with the accuracy I ended up with. Some of you may find the extra steps unnecessary, but they may help if you're doing it on your own.


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## Ttier315

ingenious. I never thought of those solutions when I put mine together. You must have some mechanical engineering blood in you. Good luck with the Delta, I love mine.


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## jacquesr

(cross-posted)

Well,
I got to set-up my dust collection idea over the weekend.

I used this:
http://www.rockler.com/tabletop-dust-fitting

That I attached inside the cabinet using simple wire.
Then I used some 90deg PVC pipe, and a 4 to 2 1/2 adapter as you can see in the picture.
All hooked up to my 1HP DC.

Well, almost no more dust on the floor.
I will see with more usage if I want to work on making the cabinet more airtight.


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## ilyac

So I finally pulled the trigger on this and bough the 36-725. Thank you all for all the detailed info on these forums helping me get my saw set up. I set it up and lined up all the faces and guides to the best of my ability and am now working on aligning the blade and fence. The good news is that I can turn it on and take a test cut without tripping the breaker, so already off to a good start.

I am looking at getting a new blade for the saw, but am having trouble finding something that meets the requirement of body no thicker than 0.073" and kerf greater than 0.100". Any blade recommendations out there? I'd prefer not to have to spend 100+ on a Forrest if I can avoid it


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## thetinman

ilyac,

I'm running the Irwin Marples blades with very good results. I use a 50T combo for general use and a 22T for rips. They're in the $30 range at Lowes.


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## GarySawWood

Tinman - is this the one?: http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-1807368-50-Tooth-Alternate/dp/B008OJJXZC/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1417630894&sr=1-1&keywords=marples+50#productDetails

Any experience with the Freud ATB Industrial combo 50T vs Marples? The Freud is what I had on my old Jet cabinet saw, but wondering if this is a better way to go as far as a thin kerf design vs the Freud (which may be too thick anyways)? Thanks


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## bob303

Hi Delta 36-725 Users,
I have noticed that Lowes now sell a dado insert for this saw. The adv. states its for use on an 8 inch dado blade. I have a 6 inch dado blade. Have any of you used the dado insert with a 6 inch blade and if how did it work? Thanks


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## jacquesr

Used it again last night with my Freud S206 Works fine.


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## ilyac

Irwin lists that blade as being 0.098. Close enough I guess to 0.1" to not be an issue I suppose. Thought it best to make sure before going out and swapping blades.

Thanks!


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## Magnum

Tinman:

Fantastic review! Nice to see you Posting again.

Best Regards: Rick


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## thetinman

GarySaw Wood….I don't use the Freud but I know of those who do and they love the blades.

Hi rick…....Thanks for your kind words as always. I'm keeping up as best I can right now. Things are very busy and hectic. I hope to do more shortly.

Jacquesr, EricLew and others…...I've noticed that you have been very active and helpful. Thanks for knowing your saw and sharing with others. Wish I could do more but thanks for helping so much.

Terry


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## david2014

Hello everyone,

I am new to woodworking and have used some power tools, except for table saw. I have been looking to buy a table saw and like the DELTA 36-725. I read some reviews. There are some good and bad. Is this saw good for beginners?
_
thanks


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## wormil

David, beginners need the same things from a saw as experienced people. There isn't such a thing as a "beginner saw"; just bad, good, and great. Generally in table saws you get what you pay for.


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## EricLew

David
Everything Rick said is correct. I know being new to wordworking, the vast choices of table saws can be overwhelming, and you worry about making the wrong choice. Fortunately the internet gives you an endless source of others experiences, reviews, and recommendations.

The categories of table saws are.

Bench top, aka portable, aka Job Site
Contractor, which are open stand and "semi-portable" 
Cabinet, which are the high end and stationary
Hybrid, which are between Contractor and Cabinet

The prices can range from a little over $100 for the least expensive bench top to $3,000 - $4,000 for the top of the line cabinet saw. I don't think the decision should be based on your experience, but on how much you can spend, and what you will be using it for.

Personally, I don't recommend the Bench Top models because the table surface is so small its very difficult to cut anything of decent size. Being light weight they are subject to vibration which will impact accuracy. They are mainly made for tossing in the back of a pickup and traveling to job sites and doing rough cut work, where precision isn't that important. Although there are some models that are several hundred dollars.

Cabinet saws are the Rolls Royces of table saws. I have never had the pleasure of using one, but they are very powerful, 3 - 5 HP, very heavy for stability, and very large. No job is too big for them. They run at 220 Volts and cost thousands of dollars. These are for the professional wordworkers who have the space and need to run the saw all day long.

Contractor saws are very popular with woodworkers who do this as a hobby, in the evenings and weekends. The saws have decent power, around 1.5 HP, and are nice size, big enough to cut sheets of plywood with the proper accessories, and can be very precise.

There are many models to choose from in the same price range, you will find people who Love and Hate every model. Of course I would recommend the 36-725, I bought mine based on the reviews on this, and other sites, and I couldn't be happier with it.

I recommend you do as much research as possible because this isn't the type of purchase you do very often. A good saw can last you 20 years or more, so you want to make the best choice possible. Whichever model you chose, having a good support group for ideas and help is a great asset.


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## thetinman

Wow Eric…...........Nicely said


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## david2014

Thanks everyone for your feedback. I have only been worry if I will be able to align the blade, rails and fence or not. All the setup sound complicated for me  If I buy this saw, I will definitely to read everything in here over again.

David


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## jacquesr

David, have no fear. I am an absolute beginner…
All went well. Plus we are here to help…


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## contractornot

I bought a Delta "contractors" 10" table saw at Lowes. It wouldn't cut through 3/4" particle board!!!! Vastly under powered. I took it back to Lowes after trying to use it once. My $25 skill saw it much more powerful than this saw. What a disappointment.


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## wormil

> I bought a Delta "contractors" 10" table saw at Lowes. It wouldn t cut through 3/4" particle board!!!!


Turn the blade around.


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## rlewisjr

Entertaining and enlightening post! Thank you. I have been circling this saw every time I go into Lowes.


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## thetinman

""""I bought a Delta "contractors" 10" table saw at Lowes. It wouldn't cut through 3/4" particle board!""""

What Rick said. Also, the power switch is located on the left.


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## jacquesr

@thetinman - I am sure we can be more helpful…
I will use my skills at troubleshooting software and hardware for 25 years…

At first it looks like a "code 18" - i.e. the problem is located within 18 inches from the front of the saw

But maybe the gentlemen received a defective unit…

Let's go step by step:

- Was the saw out of the box when you tried to cut particle board? You returned it so fast I am wondering if it was ever taken out of the box.
- Did you install the blade?
- Was the blade raised?
- Was the motor running? This saw is quite silent, but it still makes some noise…

Let's troubleshoot a little more:

- Try crosscutting a weiner. If the blade stops, the saw was not turned on in the first place. You did not buy a SawStop at Lowes for sure. 
- If that works, try ripping a slice of white bread (less fibres than whole wheat) - easier on the blade
- With the blade fully deployed, try ripping your left cheek. That will bring you ear closer to the motor to give you a chance to hear if the saw is really turned on
- If that works, try ripping a hand, then proceed with the other hand to ripping thin veneer, than 1/4 ply, and so on.

Yes, pushing the workpiece with one hand will be tough, but the good thing is that the alignment of the fence vs the blade won't matter as much.

Was setting up the saw a bear? Try a Grizzly next time….

Sorry guys I could not resist…..


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## Ttier315

Bahahahahahahahahah, that's hysterical.


----------



## thetinman

Jacquesr,

Quite detailed and informative. I hope it helps Mr. Contractor(not) understand that this saw is not his top-of-the-line $25 Skill saw and he may have some effort to put into it before he attempts to cut any more exotic particle board. Hopefully he can find his way back since he signed up only to make his one ridiculous statement.


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## wormil

Probably a sock puppet for one of the regulars who bash anything not a cabinet saw.


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## jacquesr

Hi guys,
I stumbled onto something tonight…
I bought a "masterplate' to ensure perfect alignment of the blade/fence.
when I started the back was -5 thousands versus the front…
I can bring it to perfect alignment… except when I tighten the screws back…
Then I loose that same 5 thousands….. should I try to shim the motor compartment so it stays in place?
(and no, if I set it at +5 I dont end up at 0 after tightening the screws…
Thanks

Update: when I tighten the bottom screw, I stay at 0, It's tightening the top screw that kills it


----------



## defsquad

So, guys, I've been struggling with getting my 36-725 into decent alignment. I ended up using the "secret" method, that has been posted on one of @thetinman's 36-725 threads, but just could not get it to get into alignment. I used a trusted starrett combo square in the left miter slot to rotate the blade front to back, and every time, i'm visibly about 1/32" out from front to back. I really, REALLY wish someone would make a youtube vid of the alignment adjustment process for the "secret" trunnion method.

I've sort of just "lived" with it and made adjustments as necessary to my measurements as best I can.

Anyone know of such videos per chance? (a part of me just wants to put this saw up on craigslist and get a cabinet saw, but craigslist in my area is pathetic for good tools, tons of old ryobi cheapy table saws for sale on there).

*sigh* just sort of bummed at my inability to get this saw to perform as well as it has for @thetinman and many of you here on this forum.

/rant and pity party over


----------



## jacquesr

Hi,
If nub like me can do it, you sure can.
Is this the method you are using?
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/29106827/Delta%20Contractors%20Saw%2036-725%20Blade%20Alignment.pptx

Can you trust your blade 100% as a reference?
I juts bought a master plate - i am now within 2 thou.

This is a good saw. Keep at it.


----------



## defsquad

@jacquesr, thanks tons for the encouragement. that's the one I was looking at. i could not ever seem to get it "shimmied/shifted/moved" enough to "fix" what i was seeing as the error. is this the master plate you refer to?

to answer your question about the blade, i *thought* i could trust it, but that could be part of the problem. it's one of the thin kerf 80$ freuds. i stopped using the riving knife too because it seemed like it was slightly bent and was causing tons of friction when pushing stock through, visions of kick-back damage danced in my head due to the added pressure from the riving knife.

i'm *this close* to pulling the trigger on a Forrester WWII (hopefully santa finds me good enough and has one under the tree for me).



> Hi,
> If nub like me can do it, you sure can.
> Is this the method you are using?
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/29106827/Delta%20Contractors%20Saw%2036-725%20Blade%20Alignment.pptx
> 
> Can you trust your blade 100% as a reference?
> I juts bought a master plate - i am now within 2 thou.
> 
> This is a good saw. Keep at it.
> 
> - jacquesr


----------



## thetinman

Defsquad and jacqueer AND ALL OTHERS,

Jacquesr, you have been so helpful to so many people sharing your knowledge and experience. Because of this I'm going to add to the Delta alignment. I understand why Delta does not publish the ENTIRE adjustment process because some people do not follow instructions and then want to blame the tool or the company when something goes wrong. I have helped over a dozen people put their saws back together after they dropped the motor. No serious injuries so far. It is with these people in mind that I have not given my alignment process out to any but a few trusted people. To heck with it here goes - my alignment process. This process WILL allow total control of the alignment and zero variance when done.

Notice to anyone using my process - you are on your own. If you break your saw you own all the pieces. If you drop the motor, or anything else happens, and you break you, you own all the pieces. You own it. I make no claims other than it is what I do and what works for me. If you don't know the difference between just CRACKING a screw/bolt loose vs. turning it 3 or r4 turns then just don't attempt anything. If you can't follow directions then don't attempt anything. If you screw things up and just can't find the blame in the mirror then don't attempt anything. Sorry for sounding very blunt but some types of people screw things up for everyone.

This process is so absolutely simple that it is amazing people screw it up. Anyone who wants to align the blade has seen Delta's PowerPoint slides. This is only a part - the rear part - of the whole alignment process and it can be used successfully for most alignment issues. Stop here if the process yielded an acceptable blade alignment.

For those without the PowerPoint slides and those who want to go further:

1) Remove the back panel, look inside and identify the rear motor riser tube. That's the shiny metal tube the motor rides up and down on.
2) Follow the tube up towards the table and see the two screws/hex bolts that lock the tube in the collar on the trunnion assembly. It is easier to see and loosen/tighten the screws if you lower the saw motor. Note that lowering and raising the motor will have no effect on your adjustments.
3) Crack these two screws loose and bump the motor in the direction you need it to go. Keep raising the motor and checking blade alignment until it's at zero or an acceptable variation for you. 
4) Lower the motor back down and retighten the two screws. DON'T tighten one down and then the other. Snug each one back-and-forth until they are both tight. Completely tightening one then the other can throw off the alignment a bit.

If you've done this and the blade just will not dial in then there is the next part of the process I use.

1) Same as before - lower the motor and crack the two screws loose.
2) Now look at the front riser tube and follow it up to the locking collar. You will see two identical screws clamping the tube in the collar. NOTE THERE IS A THIRD SCREW. This screw is centered between the other two. This is the safety set screw. This screw tightens into a groove in the riser tube and prevents the motor assemble from dropping. This is the danger screw for those who don't know the difference between just cracking a screw loose and turning it. The groove is shallow. DO NOT loosen this screw too much.
3) Crack the two locking collar screws loose and JUST BARELY crack the safety set screw loose. Now the entire motor assembly is free to move and get that final tweak for perfect alignment.
4) Again, raise the motor, check blade alignment, bump/twist the motor until you achieve correct alignment. A little trial and error yes - but very simple to accomplish with a free floating motor assembly.
5) Lower the motor and retighten each collar clamping screw - again snug one then the other moving back and forth between the front and rear riser tube. It's tight in there and a bit of a reach. Be careful you don't push the motor out of alignment reaching to the front. Tighten the safety set screw after all the collar screws are tight.

Note that raising/lowering the motor has no effect on the alignment PROVIDED you cracked the screws loose. All bets are off with a freely swinging motor assembly.

I hope this helps Jacquesr.

Merry Christmas

Terry


----------



## Ttier315

Merry Christmas Terry, thanks for your insight


----------



## coolhandl

A follow up after having this saw for 6 months. This is my third table saw in my journey so far, I had outgrown both of the previous saws. What a difference this saw makes, previously I hated using the table saw. The fence was never accurate, I always had to re-adjust the blade, the thing was so light it would tip over. I have used this saw more in 6 months than my previous two saws combined in 10 years.

Hardwoods - I am by no means an expert at dealing with hardwoods, but I have ran a few hundred board feet of 4/4 walnut, hickory and alder through this. Does it occasionally bog down? Yes, and usually when I am doing something stupid otherwise it hasn't been an issue.

Dust chute - I haven't had as good of luck with this as everyone else. 1) It doesn't seem to collect that much dust, it all comes flying out the top of the blade guard 2) I had a bunch of trouble with small pieces falling in the chute and clogging it up, it wasn't until the board slowed down on a piece of pine that I realized I had a big problem. Dust had packed into the chute and nothing was coming out, it was so thick that it actually slowed down the blade. I had to take the screws out with an easy out, they had been put in too tight at the factory, and I used a screw driver to get the very packed dust out. I have since taken it off and enclosed the bottom, it works far better now.

Accuracy - It's the most accurate tool in my shop right now and I find myself ignoring my miter saw. I have re-checked all the original setup and its all the same.

Drop Wheel - I noticed someone else had this problem… Essentially if your garage floor isn't level enough you cant get the lift lever to lift up off your pads. I had just about returned this saw until I noticed the one spot I had put the saw had a little dip in the floor, I moved the saw 4 feet and wha-la it worked like a champ. Until then I swore up an down at Delta engineers, then I had this aha that's how it works moment, marveled in the simplicity of it, and called my former university to get my engineering degree revoked.


----------



## thetinman

Coolhandl,

I'm happy to know the saw is working well for you. Regarding the dust chute, my personal opinion is that none of them work well on any saw. They only work if you use a powerful shop vac or DC on them at all times. We must remember that Washington forced them to be added to reduce the amount of fine dust in the air we breathe. I do think they do that. I don't think they do anything else well. I get less fine dust in the air but more chips on my saw table than without the dust collector working. In most cases you can simply loosen the wing nut and drop the bottom of the dust chute. Let the dust fall on the floor under the saw and sweep it up later. One trick to make life easier is to cut a piece of ply just big enough to fit under the saw. Tack a back on it with a hole the size of your vac hose in the middle. When you're ready to clean up just turn on the shop vac and sweep towards the hole. You can angle the back, put on sides, etc. There are fancy designs out there but you get the basic idea.

Stay happy and work safely.

Terry


----------



## Matt1982

Anyone have a problem with mounting the back rail?










Mine does not align to the holes of the table saw at all.


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## jacquesr

did you switch the parts?


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## Matt1982

@jacquesr, no, its the last piece of railing. Everything is perfect (square, level etc) and mounted but this final back piece (left of the blade). Ive contacted Delta, and sent the same picture but have not gotten a response. Without this back piece mounted, I cannot use the fence on the left side of the blade ( Not that I use that side often, but paying 600 bucks for this machine, it would be nice to have everything working properly. /


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## jacquesr

I am not sure what happened here - but one thing is sure is that they will take great care of you.
I suggest you call them and ask for Keith. Keep us posted, will you?
I will try pushing some buttons if you can't get quick resolution.


----------



## thetinman

Matt,

I've never seen this either. Normally, there is a small gap left between the two rear rail pieces when installed. Clearly you did not swap the left and right rails because the 2 closely spaced spreader bar holes are missing here. They are only on the left (from the back) rail at the end away from the table.

Are the holes for the extension table off the same amount/distance? That would show the CNC machine worked correctly spacing/drilling the holes but the operator did not register the part in the machine correctly. It is always possibly that a manufacturing/operator error occurred. It is also possible that a rail for a different saw was packaged with your saw by mistake.

Whatever happened - this is not correct. Jacquesr advice is worthy. Delta will take care of you promptly. If for some reason you just can't wait you can cut off the left end (in the pic) just enough to leave a small gap and mount the rail. This of course is providing the extension table hole spacing is off by the same amount as mentioned.

Good luck. Please keep us posted.

Terry


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## coolhandl

This is probably a stupid suggestion, its been a while since I assembled mine, do you swap one or both of the front rails with the back rails?


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## EricLew

Matt
I think Tinman is spot on, either that rail was manufactured wrong, or its the wrong part. If you have the other three rails mounted, then you couldn't have switched them around, because each one is unique. If it's an extra front rail, it would have a hole on top (in this orientation) that would be used to mount the steel plate that connects the two front rails. 
Like the guys said, call Delta, they have shown great customer service on this product. Trust me, I had a lot of parts issues when I got mine, they took care of everything.
Please DO keep us posted.

Best wishes, Eric


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## Hamish44

Thanks to Tinman and Gib for your posts.

Based primarily on the reviews I read on Lumberjocks, I bought this saw on sale for $499 ($570 with HST in Ontario) at Lowe's in Niagara Falls Canada. If you live near the US/CAN border it could be worth your while - with the US Dollar it would cost you around $450 depending on the rate you get (+Duty at the border). I had a $400 dollar gift card thanks to my big sister, and I am going to try and sell my old saw for the difference - so the upgrade I made could end up being free!!

*Set up* was relatively easy thanks to Tinman and Gib's advice. The guide rails were the trickiest part, but I was able get mine perfect with no swearing. Just take your time and don't lock everything down right away. My blade was square to my miter slot so no issue there. It was out by only .001".

The only *fix *I had to do make was add two washers under the white plastic slider at the back of the fence to raise it slightly. My fence was just catching on the end of the side table.

*Overall *I am very pleased with the performance of the saw. It is much better than my old Sears CRAFTSMAN®/MD Limited Edition 10'' Table Saw. Much bigger too. Not to knock my old saw - it is what it is. I could get the old saw to cut straight, but the fence was much shorter. The Delta 36-725 Fence is way way better. I also like the ability to lock the depth and angle levers into position. My old saw would jump down about 3/16 when I started it up - the Delta does not move at all. The raising and lowering mechanisms are super smooth compared to my old saw. The table is perfectly flat. The motor is quiet. Great saw - worth full price IMO.

Hamish


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## jacquesr

Hello Amish,
Welcome aboard!
It is new to me that the saw is available in Canada.
I live in Montréal and bought mine in Plattsburgh when the exchange was near "at par".

Info for US lumberjocks: there are no duties on import tools.
I bought most of my tools (whole shop) from US vendors. Only had to pay sales tax.


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## BrettUK

Excellent review.


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## Bobthebuilder2

so i just bought one of these, as i was pulling it out of the box, 2 of the metal plates that you attach to the sides had slide around in the box and were scratched a little, not a big deal.

But then i pulled the legs out, and the tube that connects the legs together down the middle, one of them at the end of the tube was bent inword, so that the other leg wouldn't slide into it……..should i attempt to bend that out, or just call delta for a new one? Im a 'tiny' bit worried that if i don't bent it right it might become a tiny pivot point and cause my table to vibrate/tilt ect.

i also noticed spots of rust on the bottom of my table, anyone else notice this when they put theirs together? wasn't just one spot, im seeing like 3 or 4 area's. kind of makes me wonder if this is a really old one thats been sitting in the store a while, anyway to check? Looked like my box had been retaped as well……...had to have this thing delivered an hour away


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## wormil

Take it back to the store and exchange it. Sometimes boxes get banged around by forklifts.


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## thetinman

Bob,

Ditto for Rick M's vote. This appears to be a returned saw or a repackaged floor model. I think the things you've found and noted can be worked around. But, it would be a shame to find more damage and misfits during assembly. I'd scream and holler and tell them to deliver another one and take this one back at the same time. You paid for delivery - make them live up to their end of the deal.

Just my 2 cents.

Terry


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## EricLew

I agree with the guys, Return it. You deserve to have an undamaged saw. Exchanging it may be a hassle but this is a long term purchase, and when the hassle is over, you will be much happier and confident with your purchase. I also don't like letting retailers get away with giving consumers damaged products, it's their problem, not yours.


----------



## ChipByrd

Hi guys,

Have any of you made a ZCI for the saw. Lowes sells one over $50 and I prefer not to pay that. Leecraft still doesn't sell one so it looks like we are on our own.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Chip


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## Rayne

> Hi guys,
> 
> Have any of you made a ZCI for the saw. Lowes sells one over $50 and I prefer not to pay that. Leecraft still doesn t sell one so it looks like we are on our own.
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated.
> 
> Chip
> 
> - ChipByrd


I did. I created a template first using 1/2" MDF by cutting the general shape first and then using a router table to trim the rest using a template bit. Because the metal plate is sooo thin, I shimmed between the plate and the template so you can actually use the bearing to ride the plate. With the template done, making others were quite easy. You'll also need something to catch the end of the ZCI to the table. I just used a piece of aluminum I had and bent it to the general shape of the original insert. It's been working great for nearly a year. Hope that helps.


----------



## Ttier315

Hey Chip, I made a few out of 1/4 laminate flooring. Tried a few other materials but this seemed to work the best. Not very strong but they do the trick. I made one for each blade I use and one for my dado. The real trick was routing the edge so they would rest flush with the table and provide accurate holes to access the leveling screws. Good luck.
Tom T


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## ChipByrd

Thanks so much guys. I had been putting this off, but on Monday a small piece catapulted just past me and I knew that I needed to make work of it. Thanks, I definitely see what you guys did.

Appreciate the help.

Chip


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## EricLew

I have made some also, after a little practice they are pretty easy to make.

Delta 36-725 ZCI


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## ChipByrd

Here's one more question: Do you think 1/8" Baltic Birch ply would work?


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## EricLew

I don't know, I thought about that too in the beginning, but never tried it because I was worried it was too thin, light, and flexible to be safe.


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## thetinman

Chip,

1/8 birch will work but only on longer/wider pieces. As Eric points out, it will flex - especially on shorter pieces where you will be pushing down and forward on the piece. Makes for pretty bad cuts and the chance of binding /defeating the anti kickback features.

Terry


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## tcot

Tinman;

I didn't read all of the 200+ posts, but your review helped me decide which TS would be my first. I finished assembling it this past weekend, and it is worlds better than those I remember from years past!

It did take a bit of time to adjust, but it wasn't terrible.

Thanks for your detailed review and awesome assembly and set-up notes!


----------



## bluephi1914

After using this saw for an extended period of time I have to say that the dust collection leaves something to be desired. This is my only complaint… there is a lot of dust on the ground not to mention the dust above around the blade. The power is adequate and after getting the blade an everything aligned the saw cuts nice.

Has anyone experienced the dust collection issue


----------



## Rayne

I went from a rickety Ryobi table saw which had none to this, so for me, massive improvement. When it is hooked up to my dust collector (actually, it's permanently piped in now), I barely get anything on the ground but above the table tends to be a mess as I use my ZCI all the time. I am in the process of finishing up my Overarm Dust collection, so hopefully that'll take care of most of the remaining issue. Love this saw.


----------



## thetinman

Blue,

Everyone has a dust collection issue with every saw. Every DC system leaves something to be desired. A DC system or a good shop vac MUST be used every time you use the saw. Lacking a dedicated expensive DC system, use a shop vac with as much power as you can find. In my experience the little bucket sized ones just don't have the umph to do the job as well. They are better than no shop vac but do leave some to eventually plug up the chute. I don't have the funds for a quiet DC system so I use an old 16 Gal. Chraftsman shop vac. It'll suck the chrome off a bumper hitch but it is loud as hell. I confess that I sometimes avoid the noise and leave it off. I drop the chute and let the dust fall. I have a piece of ply on the floor under the saw. I put a back on the ply and cut a hole for my shop vac. I simply turn on the shop vac and push the dust to the back and let the vac suck it up quickly.

Regarding the dust on the table, it is inevitable. At 3K RPM some dust will stay in the teeth of the blade and go on the table. The more TPI the blade has will result in a finer dust. Less TPI throws larger pieces. A ZC insert it great for cutting but blocks the air intake around the blade the dust chute needs. It must pull it from the side under the saw rather than from around the blade. You can try drilling some small air intake holes in the ZC insert to pull air past the blade and do a better job but you simply will never get it all.

Hope this info is useful to you.

Terry


----------



## webe1959

I too had am a former Ryobi/Craftsman owner but I can say that after a year I am very happy with this Delta saw. It dos everything except cut the full sheets with ease. I never knew how hard was working before to get everything setup and aligned for each cut. Measure twice and cut once really works on this saw. On the Ryobi, I was always having to cut bigger and than whittle down until it was finished. Now I just cut and have yet to recut, if I measured correctly to begin with. I've read that parts may be an issue with Delta overall. Hopefully I will not have to find that out any time soon.


----------



## LGLDSR73

Greetings,

I've just been to hell and back assembling a Delta 36-725 table saw. The manual is useless in terms I cannot begin to express. That said, the problem I am having now is:

Adjusting those fence rails was a NIGHTMARE. What a lousy design but after several hours of adjust those rails I now find that when moving the fence from one end of the saw to the other the fence is hitting the bolts that affix the union plate (which joins the two fence rails).

Has anyone run into this problem? Also, since Delta does not reference it in their 'manual' (and I use the term loosely) what are the white plastic screws for on either side of the fence?

Many thanks!


----------



## TWDuke

I have finished assembling my newly purchased 36-725 and have some concerns about a few of the parts. Maybe somebody can tell me if these are nothing to worry about or things that will cause me ongoing heartache.

First, the rear rails seem to be slightly different in size. The top of the right rail (viewing from the front) projects about 1/32 farther out than the left rail, right where they meet. Both are snugged up tight to the table top.

Second, the fence seems to have a slight inward bow in the middle, and it also seems to tilt in towards the inner part of the fence. Both of these issues are seen on both sides of the fence.

Third, there is no tension on the fence locking handle and if you let go of it, it drops enough to lightly lock the fence. I have to hold it in a tilted up position to move the fence. I *think* the 2 saws I looked at on the floor of different stores had enough tension that it would stay unlocked while you changed the fence's position.

What do you think?


----------



## Rayne

> I have finished assembling my newly purchased 36-725 and have some concerns about a few of the parts. Maybe somebody can tell me if these are nothing to worry about or things that will cause me ongoing heartache.
> 
> First, the rear rails seem to be slightly different in size. The top of the right rail (viewing from the front) projects about 1/32 farther out than the left rail, right where they meet. Both are snugged up tight to the table top.
> 
> Second, the fence seems to have a slight inward bow in the middle, and it also seems to tilt in towards the inner part of the fence. Both of these issues are seen on both sides of the fence.
> 
> Third, there is no tension on the fence locking handle and if you let go of it, it drops enough to lightly lock the fence. I have to hold it in a tilted up position to move the fence. I *think* the 2 saws I looked at on the floor of different stores had enough tension that it would stay unlocked while you changed the fence s position.
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> - TWDuke


Just the fence alone would make me request an exchange, but only for the part instead of a whole saw exchange. As for the other 2, any photos?


----------



## TWDuke

That's a close up of where the 2 rear rails meet. It's hard to see the difference in that photo, but it measures out to just a hair under 1/32.


----------



## TWDuke

UPDATE: I think things are OK

Regarding the fence lock - I went to Lowe's and checked the floor model. The locking handle is just as floppy or loose as mine. So..as designed?

Regarding the rear rail - I was worried about it because the fence was quite a bit off square when to the right of the blade and guessed the rear rail may have been the main culprit. While checking different things I found the left front fence rail was about 1/32 closer to the table than the right fence rail. I loosened the screws holding the left side rail and used a piece of wood to lever the rail farther from the table while retightening the screws. Now the left and right front rails are VERY CLOSE to a uniform distance from the table and the fence was much, much closer to square.


----------



## Rayne

> UPDATE: I think things are OK
> 
> Regarding the fence lock - I went to Lowe s and checked the floor model. The locking handle is just as floppy or loose as mine. So..as designed?
> 
> Regarding the rear rail - I was worried about it because the fence was quite a bit off square when to the right of the blade and guessed the rear rail may have been the main culprit. While checking different things I found the left front fence rail was about 1/32 closer to the table than the right fence rail. I loosened the screws holding the left side rail and used a piece of wood to lever the rail farther from the table while retightening the screws. Now the left and right front rails are VERY CLOSE to a uniform distance from the table and the fence was much, much closer to square.
> 
> - TWDuke


Glad you worked out the fence rails issue. The locking handle…that's a curious one. Maybe the fence is adjusted too closely to the rail? That's the only thing I can think of that would cause gravity to be strong enough for a light lock. Mine doesn't do that, but mine is also not completely tight against the rails (it should be more than what I have at the moment, to be honest).


----------



## j2dawson

I'm having trouble with the fence on my new 36-725 also. The locking handle is floppy and i have to hold it up to slide the fence or it locks. I also have to align both ends of the fence as iwhen locking it, it doesn't draw it square, just leaves it wider at the rear. It also moves to the left when locking it down. Otherwise, I love the saw.


----------



## TWDuke

@bluephi1914 - now that I've used the saw for several months, I would echo your comments about poor dust collection. Mine is hooked up to a pretty good Ridgid vac with a small ClearVue cyclone collector in-between, and quite a lot of dust ends up in the cyclone's bucket. There is always plenty more to be swept up from under and around the saw, however.

On a different subject, I couldn't keep the fence square to the blade if the front portion straddled the joint in the front rail's square tubes, or if it was to the left of the blade. After calling Delta and chatting with customer support, they sent me out a one-piece tube. With that installed the fence is really pretty good, even when close to the blade. Anybody in the market for a two-piece front rail tube? That may or not be very good?


----------



## TWDuke

> I m having trouble with the fence on my new 36-725 also. The locking handle is floppy and i have to hold it up to slide the fence or it locks. I also have to align both ends of the fence as iwhen locking it, it doesn t draw it square, just leaves it wider at the rear. It also moves to the left when locking it down. Otherwise, I love the saw.
> 
> - j2dawson


Mine behaves much as you describe, except it always (I hope it's always) draws itself square once tightened. My experience with Delta's customer support was really positive, so if you are still having the problems you described, do yourself a favor and call them.


----------



## j2dawson

I finally got the fence where it is acceptable. As far as the floppy locking handle, I just tightened the nut on the through bolt enough to provide a bit of drag and it works fine now. The fence now squares when tightened but still moves a slight bit when tightened. Overall, I'm extremely happy with the saw.


----------



## TWDuke

> As far as the floppy locking handle, I just tightened the nut on the through bolt enough to provide a bit of drag and it works fine now.
> 
> - j2dawson


That's a good piece of advice. Worked for me, too. Thanks


----------



## Tideline77

I recently assembled my new 36-5100 , this is the model with cast wings and one piece rails.
Thought I would share it here, since this thread and review are the best tutorial I found anywhere on these Delta saws

It was my first time assembling and tuning a table saw and I worked on it about 8 hours.
Mostly because I could not get the table dead flat. Both wings are slightly higher on the outer edges.
Then to make matters even more time consuming. They assembly instructions include the process of using the little rail jig included with the saw.

With one piece rails….......and a table that I could not get dead flat…........I fought the process for about as long as I could …........and finally just bolted the rail to the cast iron table , snugged up the bolts and the proceeded to bolt up the to the two cast wings and one stamped wing.

So, you fellas struggling with the two piece rails….....don't feel bad
I struggled with one piece rails and cast wings, I snugged and cracked every bolt on the wings and the rails about 15 times….....cussing and more cussing

Only other area I struggled a little with was setting the 90 and 45 stops
They were way off.

Never could get the table dead flat

Only thing left to do is adjust the riving knife…......the blade was parallel to the miter slot right out of the box and squaring the fence to the table surface and setting it parallel to the miter slot was easy

I put two coats of ultimate paint guard on the entire saw.
I been using this on my boat and cars for about five years, and you can wax over the top of it with paste wax

It is a product designed for aircraft and show cars etc


----------



## wormil

> Mostly because I could not get the table dead flat. Both wings are slightly higher on the outer edges.
> - Tideline77


My 90's Delta has the same problem but reversed, lower on the outer edges. I fixed it with shims. The cast iron mating surfaces are poorly machined is what causes the problem. If you don't have any metal shim, you can use aluminum foil, pop can sides, or even paper.


----------



## Tideline77

This saw does have two set screws on each cast wing, you crack the wing attachment bolts and the adjust the set screws to shim any sag. But you cannot use them in reverse !! 
Even if you could it would open a gap in the top of the wing to table joint? Maybe just a hairline gap.
So I guess the correct way to correct the cast would be to locate the high spot in the casting and grind it off .
This might allow the wing joint to fit together tight without the wings outside edge being higher than the main table

At this point, I will live with the table not being perfectly flat

And see how my skills progress

it did require too much frustration to come to the conclusion…........I was not the culprit

Thanks to Everyone for the expert information on this saw


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## KennyS

Great Review! I have been considering this saw, as I neither have the money for a Cabinet Saw nor the space. My workshop is in my garage and there space is at a premium. Others I have considered are the Bosch 41009 and the Porter Cable PCB222TS Both would work with my existing Workstation. Obviously this Delta wouldn't. I do like the fact that it is a more powerful saw, as well as it has a 30" right rip capacity. I am currently using a fifteen year old Craftsman, that has just about had it. I would like a more powerful and possibly less noisy saw. I use it mostly for woodworking projects for my house. The old saw has served me well. I'm currently planning on building some new kitchen cabinets, and a better saw would sure help.

I have one question. How large and heavy is the box this comes in? Could one person manage to get it into and out the back of a SUV? I have nobody to help me. ( I'm 68 ) So if I can't manage it on my own, I will have to try and see if they will deliver it.


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## Rayne

> Great Review! I have been considering this saw, as I neither have the money for a Cabinet Saw nor the space. My workshop is in my garage and there space is at a premium. Others I have considered are the Bosch 41009 and the Porter Cable PCB222TS Both would work with my existing Workstation. Obviously this Delta wouldn t. I do like the fact that it is a more powerful saw, as well as it has a 30" right rip capacity. I am currently using a fifteen year old Craftsman, that has just about had it. I would like a more powerful and possibly less noisy saw. I use it mostly for woodworking projects for my house. The old saw has served me well. I m currently planning on building some new kitchen cabinets, and a better saw would sure help.
> 
> I have one question. How large and heavy is the box this comes in? Could one person manage to get it into and out the back of a SUV? I have nobody to help me. ( I m 68 ) So if I can t manage it on my own, I will have to try and see if they will deliver it.
> 
> - KennyS


I had Lowes load the truck up and I had no issues taking it out to be set up. It is heavy, but manageable by one person if you're careful.


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## j2dawson

> I have one question. How large and heavy is the box this comes in? Could one person manage to get it into and out the back of a SUV? I have nobody to help me. ( I m 68 ) So if I can t manage it on my own, I will have to try and see if they will deliver it.
> 
> - KennyS


Lowe's loaded it into the back of my SUV then I unloaded it and set it up by myself. I'm 70 BTW so I'm sure a youngster like you could do it. 

Jim


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## KennyS

Rayne, Thanks for the info.

Jim Dawson, thanks too, and hey your'e still a youngster too! I was just a bit worried. I remember buying a butcher block counter for my old house, only to find out I couldn't lift it off the truck once I got it home. I sure do miss that truck!


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## Wildvortex

I just had a chance to assemble mine Oct 2016. The hardware bags are now labeled and quick assembly guide is easy to understand.

Those upset about it being a split rail design, take the 2×2 angle iron to a machine shop. Tell them that you need the rail welded together and everything needs to be totally square. This shouldn't be a problem for them and it probably won't take long for them to do it. I will probably do that if it keeps moving but for now all is aligned and well.


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## OUCHDAMMIT

It was great to read your review. I worked with a great old Delta for several years about 15 years back and loved it. Moved on in life and finally bought what turned out to be a piece of junk. Now, by Christmas I will have a new table saw - a Delta again. It will be like home coming, a birthday and Christmas.


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## AAANDRRREW

tinman - I've had this saw for almost 2 years and have been relatively happy with it and it usually cuts straight with the occasional fence or blade adjustment. After reading this again, I noticed my rails are not straight edge straight. The front rail you don't even need a straightedge to tell its off - off the top of my head I believe my left hand one (looking at the saw) is at least a 1/16" of an inch lower… The rear rails are even worse. Odd thing is the fence squares up to the miter slot nicely. But I'm guessing if I'd go and put the fence on the left hand side of the blade (I rarely do this) it'd be off.

Any recommendations on fixing this? I'm thinking taking the fence guides off, loosening up the rail bolts and just doing the process you outlined (and the manual) again. I don't remember it being this far off after initial assembly, but maybe over the 2 years of moving it around the garage things shifted?

I guess the hardest part might just be finding that darn gauge…I don't think I tossed it, but placing it in that "special place that'll you'll always remember, then forget about it 10 min later" is likely.


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## 71vette

Can anyone tell me how to make an adjustment on the blade of a delta 36-725 mine is off somewhat. You can see the wobble at start and stop. Can't find anything online or in my manual.


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## 71vette

Can anyone tell me how to make an adjustment on the blade of a delta 36-725 mine is off somewhat. You can see the wobble at start and stop. Can't find anything online or in my manual.


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## bluephi1914

> Can anyone tell me how to make an adjustment on the blade of a delta 36-725 mine is off somewhat. You can see the wobble at start and stop. Can t find anything online or in my manual.
> 
> - 71vette


pm me your email and i will send u a file that shows you how to do it


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## bluephi1914

> Can anyone tell me how to make an adjustment on the blade of a delta 36-725 mine is off somewhat. You can see the wobble at start and stop. Can t find anything online or in my manual.
> 
> - 71vette


https://www.dropbox.com/s/bb431qoumfps4ip/36-725%20Blade%20to%20Miter%20Slot%20Parallel%20Adjustment.pptx?dl=0


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## TWDuke

> Can anyone tell me how to make an adjustment on the blade of a delta 36-725 mine is off somewhat. You can see the wobble at start and stop. Can t find anything online or in my manual.
> 
> - 71vette


I had quite a bit of wobble/runout on my blade when I first got this saw - about 17/1000. I called the Delta support number and they sent me a new arbor at no charge. Actually, they first told me I had to take the saw to a repair/service center. When I objected, the guy agreed to send the new arbor but almost scared me by describing how difficult it was to replace. In truth, it's not hard, just takes a while and some patience to get the drive belt on the new arbor at the same time you're moving it into its proper position. With the new arbor the blade has a little less than 4/1000 runout.

So…my advice is to call Delta and see what they can do for you


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## psummersjr

thetinman…Thank you so much for your post, I know this is now 3 years after your post, but thanks to your post I went ahead and bought this saw yesterday. Putting it together tonight. Great, unbiased review!!


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## Tideline77

rather than start a new post of the forum and create forum clutter

I wanted to ask this question on this thread

what dust fitting is everyone using to attach this to your dust collection ?

I bought a 2 1/2 " to 4" but the 2 1/2 inch side does not mate up to the saws dust port

I was hoping someone would be able to point me to the correct fitting

the 2 1/2 to 4 inch fittings I purchased fit my grizzly router table and also fit the exhaust port on the dewalt 735 planer

I hate to cobble this thing together with duct tape…...

dang dust collection is a big challenge


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## Rayne

> rather than start a new post of the forum and create forum clutter
> 
> I wanted to ask this question on this thread
> 
> what dust fitting is everyone using to attach this to your dust collection ?
> 
> I bought a 2 1/2 " to 4" but the 2 1/2 inch side does not mate up to the saws dust port
> 
> I was hoping someone would be able to point me to the correct fitting
> 
> the 2 1/2 to 4 inch fittings I purchased fit my grizzly router table and also fit the exhaust port on the dewalt 735 planer
> 
> I hate to cobble this thing together with duct tape…...
> 
> dang dust collection is a big challenge
> 
> - Tideline77


This is what I use. Works very well for me. " 
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/4-to-2-1-4-reducer-fitting":https://www.woodcraft.com/products/4-to-2-1-4-reducer-fitting


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## Tideline77

thanks a bunch

I appreciate your help


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## Coacher

Delta and Lowes should send lots of holiday gifts your way. I do not believe I've ever been more influenced by a single review.

I was laughing As I was reading the comments, I also waited thirty minutes for a fork lift certified employee to be available to block off half the store and get the saw down.

"Do you need help loading this?"
"You needed a forklift, I guess I can lift that puppy no problem Sherlock!"


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## dklock

I know this post is old but I just read it while researching the Delta 36 725 and found it very informative and entertaining. 
I am recently retired and have long promised to treat myself with a new table saw in retirement but have hesitated because like thetinman my old craftsman is an old friend and I have hesitated fulfilling my promise to myself because my old saw has and does serve me well. My only complaint is that it's very fussy getting the t-square fence lined up correctly for every cut. 
But after reading reviews and esp this article, I am convinced that I don't know what I am missing and will be heading out soon for my new saw. Anybody interested in a 35 year old craftsman 9" table saw, yes 9", that still works great? 
Thanks for this great post!


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## Prizm

So close to pulling the trigger on this saw. Just need to make sure I can fit it in my garage. Before I head to Lowe's with a tape measure, is there anyone out there that have one of these that can tell me the dimensions (width, length) of this thing including the rails?


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## EricLew

The widest part is the front rail 62". Front to back is 32"


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## Prizm

Okay, bought the saw and currently assembling it. I feel I must be missing something, but does anyone else have trouble with the foot pedal? I would expect this type of system to have some type of lock position, but it's just idle unless weight on it? When the caster swivels around it rubs on the frame making it worthless. Someone please make me feel stupid and tell me this is not how it works.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qSuYe6MFBcy84Ond5lwRreptc-CFcZGj

https://drive.google.com/open?id=18kuqtG05CVHXiGjhgmJ1gGWOyGO7Paox


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## dklock

I know that there is so little clearance to the floor that the leveling pads must be retracted for the lift to work but I don't know about the caster running on the lower cross tube. I would check on mine but I now have runout and wing tables so I do t want to lift it. The castor in your pic does not look right. I will look at mine when I get back to it. Sorry not much help.


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## EricLew

I juts looked at mine, which works fine, and it looks just like yours. The only thing I can think of is maybe your leveling pads are extended too far preventing the caster from lifting the saw ?


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## TGO1216

> I know that there is so little clearance to the floor that the leveling pads must be retracted for the lift to work but I don't know about the caster running on the lower cross tube. I would check on mine but I now have runout and wing tables so I do t want to lift it. The castor in your pic does not look right. I will look at mine when I get back to it. Sorry not much help.
> 
> - dklock


Did you ever figure this out? Getting ready to pull the trigger and was just checking.


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## liamtoh1

> Did you ever figure this out? Getting ready to pull the trigger and was just checking.
> - TGO1216


It is a fine saw. I have had mine for nearly 1 year and no manufacturing issues. Unless you want to pay more (more than double) and go for a Grizzly or Laguna, the Delta is good saw for its price.

You can get it for much cheaper than it's listed price from Lowes by buying discounted Lowes gift card and coupons from the famous auction site. You can also try to use a Harbor Freight 15% or 20% Coupon (YMMV) in the store.


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## j2dawson

If you're a vet, you can get 10% off at Lowe's.


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## hughdn

I know this is an old post, but I got my saw second hand a few years ago and while I'm happy with it it never came with the rail alignment guide.

Would it be possible to get some measurements on that bad boy? Was thinking of trying to make one based on the drawing in the manual, but would need some measurements!


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## redchaser

I know, old thread, but it's relevant. I've read this review a few times over the last couple of years, and while I didn't base my buying decision purely on your review, it did influence it. I bought a 36-725 today. I am in dire need of an upgrade, my old tablesaw is a Craftsman branded model of the old Ryobi BT 3000 and it has so much slop and play in it that getting accurate cuts is very difficult and repeatability impossible. I need a saw that's easy to move because my shop is strictly storage and I have to moe the saw outside to work, including up/down a small ramp. The 36-725 fits that bill and I'm impressed with the fence.

I did a search for "Lowes Credit Card Deals" and found this offer for $100 off a $600 or more purchase when you signed up for a Lowes card.

" https://www.lowes.com/l/Credit/new-customer-credit-offer.html?int_cmp=ConsumerCreditCenter:A:Credit:Corp:Up_To_100_In_Store":https://www.lowes.com/l/Credit/new-customer-credit-offer.html?int_cmp=ConsumerCreditCenter:A:Credit:Corp:Up_To_100_In_Store

I didn't have one previously so I applied in store (required by the offer) and got the card to get the discount, the folks at the store didn't know anything about the discount nor did they have the requisite "coupons' for it, but eventually just it by taking $100 off (I picked up a can of stain also to get the purchase total over $600 for the $100 discount). I'm going to have to assemble the saw outside my shop/storage so I hope the weather is clear and dry tomorrow so I can do so, today wasn't. Your assembly, set up and tuning tips will come in handy. Thanks thetinman, it's all been helpful, informative and entertaining.


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## Ron9577

Just finished putting together my newest Delta 36-725. The first one had a bad motor but this one runs like a top. I finished up with zero parts left over, the rails level with the table top, and even got the power cord screwed to the inside of the table after only 248 tries. Everything about this saw is big and beefy except for that tiny little screw! I have a small shop, most of a two car garage, and every large tool is on wheels. This replaces at 20+ craftsman that died and forced me to find a replacement that fit the budget and the shop. After several dozen reviews about three or four saws that met my needs, I selected the Delta and am happy with my choice.


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## bean_o

I know this is an old thread but I just spent 3 months reviewing table saws and decided to buy the 36-725 only to find it was discontinued.

Almost bought a Grizzly but after further checking found out Lowes now has the 36-725 T2. I live in GA and couldnt find one if these in GA or the five surrounding states! Finally found one in VA and drove up to get it. I am glad I did. I love it.

After reading many reviews and concerns about the motor I put in a dedicated 20 amp circuit.

Also replaced the 10 inch stamped steel wings with some 12" cast iron craftsman wings I found on ebay..

Installed a diablo combo blade and zero clearance insert.

To finish I mounted my Kobalt router table and couldnt be happier with the end result.

This saw is smooth, powerful, accurate and stable. I am so glad I didnt buy a more expensive hybrid or cabinet saw! Everything was aligned out of the box and I can't get over the qaulity of this $600 saw. Would recommend to anyone.

Here is an some pictures of the final.product.


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## EricLew

Welcome to the club Bean_o
It's a wonderful saw for $600
Enjoy


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## EricOly

Thanks for all the time and effort you put into this. Validates my choice that's sitting in a box in my truck right now.

For what they are worth there are several reviews on the Lowes website saying the motor burned out or quit within minutes or days of first use. Somewhere on the www I read there was a reason for that and it could be avoided by doing something fairly simple. Anybody know or remember? Was it trying to use the saw on a 15 amp circuit? (I have a dedicated 20 amp circuit.)

Eric


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