# splayed legs on kitchen table: which joint to use?



## zovirl (Nov 14, 2012)

I want to build a kitchen table with splayed legs, but I don't know what joint to use for joining the legs & aprons.

Here's my design:









The aprons are about 4", the splay angle is about 5°.

If it were straight-legged, mortise & tenon would work, but I'm worried that the splay will tend to pull M&T apart. 
The two things I can think of to keep the tenons from pulling out are to peg them or dovetail them (so they would slide down into the mortise from the top of the leg). Pegging seems easier, but would it be strong enough?

Thoughts? Is there another approach I should be using? Are splayed legs on a kitchen table just a bad idea? Or is the splay angle so small that I don't need to worry about it, and regular M&T will be fine?


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Corner Bracket?


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Are they splayed in two directions or just one? I can't tell from the drawing. My feeling is that a M&T joint will be plenty adequate. If you're worried about it, then draw bore the tenons. It will be critical to cut the angle the shoulders of the tenons accurately.


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## Fishfreak911 (Jul 14, 2010)

One old table trick is to just taper the legs on the two INSIDE edges below the apron. This gives it a look of tapered and splayed legs w/o making the joint process difficult. I have used this on some end table and a hall table I built. I always opt for Mortise & Tenon. If I am going to do it, I am going to do it RIGHT, so it lasts!


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

Offset the tenon lengths and use 3/8 stub tenons as well. Thru tenons just to illustrate the offset.


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## zovirl (Nov 14, 2012)

Charles, do they make brackets with splay? I'm not sure I could bend a normal vertical-leg bracket correctly to attach to a splayed leg.

Bondo, they are splayed in 2 directions. The bottom of the leg is directly below the corner of the top, while the top of the leg is inset 2.5" from each edge of the top. Top is 29" above the floor, so the leg/apron angle is 5°, while the leg itself is 7° off vertical.

Texcaster, that's a good idea. So those tenons are haunched right? It doesn't weaken the top of the leg too much?


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I'm no expert, but I think you can use the above bracket or one like this from Rockler. You would just need to trim the leg and aprons to the appropriate angle. The rockler would be easier since you wouldn't have to make those small grooves at an angle.


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

One way to keep the geometry simple… make the taper after the joint area.


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## zovirl (Nov 14, 2012)

I made a couple test joints last night. One through-tenon, and one pegged tenon. Both turned out strong. The through-tenon one I could stand on and it didn't break. I think that'll be the way to go.

I'll be sure to taper the legs on the inside to accentuate the visual splay effect.

Does anyone have suggestions on what wood to use for this project? I want a light wood, like maple, but as I'll be cutting the joints with hand tools I'd rather not work in something has hard as maple. Is alder strong enough for a kitchen table?


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test

Alder's

```
590<br />maple's
```
 1450

give or take.

Silver maple's @700.

HTH


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## zovirl (Nov 14, 2012)

is 590 too soft for a table, which might have to support a lot of weight?


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## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

You problem with alder is that it may scratch easier because it is soft not that it will fail structurally. I would say that M&T would hold up but if your worried go with deeper tenons or through tenons like suggested earlier

You have to consider if it is Cabinet grade, Frame grade, Knotty Alder. It doesn't look like a large table how much weight are you talking about.

I have used Alder in bookshelves and tables and have not had a problem. I've seen it used for all kinds of projects, including entertainment centers.


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