# LumberJocks Woodworking Tip of the Day!



## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

What tips have you learned in your woodworking experience that you wish you knew earlier?

Let's learn from each other and share our tips!

To keep this thread going come back each day to share a tip and read the latest posts.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Cut grooves in two passes, flipping the workpiece between passes to center the groove. Such a simple idea, but it greatly improves accuracy on this common milling operation.


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## Thewoodman2000 (Jan 2, 2013)

Tip 1 for me would have been to learn to ask for "help" along time ago. How to do something without having the best or most correct tools for the process.

So my tip would be for us to just ask when we are not sure. I have seen many LJ's doing this on here and its great!


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

New tools aren't sharp (saw blades are excepted).
Learn to sharpen. Makes your work much more pleasant.
Bill


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

To set depth on the cut of your table saw or router, use a piece of scrap wood and make a mark on it at the desired height. Then set that piece on the table and raise the blade or bit up to that mark.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

Do not use varnish or lacquer or paint over cedar. Use clear, semi transparent or opaque stain.

The oils in cedar will shed varnish and many paint coatings- they will peel right off in time.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

I don't care how many tape measure you have in the shop, or even how "good" they may be. When you start a project, use ONE, and only one. Tape measure are usually close to each other…..NOT! Half the time: it is that wee hook out on the end of the tape that gets beat up. Bends a bit, and measurements change with it. Then, if you would change to another tape…...measurements will be different. What MIGHT be a 15-3/4" long piece with one tape, might be off by 1/16" on another tape.

Pick one tape measure for a project, use it through out the project. After that, use it again if you like it, if not..throw it out.

Note: If you also use the markings on that combo square, at least check to see if they match the tape measure you are using.


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

Nothing happens until something moves.
- Albert Einstein


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

When planing rough lumber, switch sides repeatedly to get the straightest flattest boards.


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## BigJerryWayne (Aug 23, 2012)

Measure twice, cut once. You can cut a little more off, but just can't add it back on.


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## Standingwoodpecker (Aug 5, 2014)

I've learned to always cut long. I can always cut again if it's too long but it's harder to glue the pieces together if I cut the wood short. I always measure twice, in two different spots, then will connects the dots with a square ( if permissible). I prefer to CYA, it might a little bit too much but I don't have thousands of board feet sitting around so I cherish what I have.


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

When using machinery, think about what you're doing….. not about what you're going to do.


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

Safety does not take extra time it takes extra focus!

Listen to the voice in the back of your head… unless it says hold my beer & watch this!

Seriously, don't leave any fingers in the shop!


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## cdaniels (Apr 16, 2014)

where the best place to mount my vise is. I have moved it at least 6 times allready and I only use a 3' workbench


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

*NO* operation is too small to use a push stick with power tools!


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## diverlloyd (Apr 25, 2013)

Keep you fingers out of anything with a blade. Don't skimp on things that spin at 8000 rpms your fingers nether regions and body will thank you.


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## kiyoshigawa (Aug 30, 2013)

If you're getting frustrated with an operation-be it planing a surface, squaring an edge, cutting a miter-take a break. Better to give up for a while and cool down than continue getting frustrated and make more mistakes.


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## mudflap4869 (May 28, 2014)

1) Stop and sure that there is absolutely nothing on your mind but what you are doing at the moment.
2) NEVER interupt someone who is opperating a machine. It can always wait a few seconds. 
3) ALWAYS shout "NOISE" before starting a machine. That way you don't startle others and cause accidents. ALWAYS respond to the NOISE announcement by repeating "NOISE" in a loud voice.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

once you see blood, its to late.

a board cut to short, will require re-engineering.

if you're the type that likes to daydream, read this over.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Cheese sticks and push sticks are not the same thing.


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## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

great tips ,

always unplug the table saw when changing blades

when using it always give it your undivided attention its very unforgiving .


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Keep your pencils sharp. Put a sharpener in your shop somewhere handy and use it frequently. Your joints will fit better.


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## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

Glue does not stick to packing tape.
Line your cauls with it and anything else you don't want glue to stick to.


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## HamS (Nov 10, 2011)

Always mark your pattern piece. 
Clean squeeze out before it gets hard but don't use a we etc cloth and smear it into oak pores


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

Always, always wear eye protection. This may be an oldie, but its hard to do anything when you can't see.


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## freddy1962 (Feb 27, 2014)

Watch the loose clothing and jewelry. Roll the sleeves up and tuck in the shirts. Only wear gloves when you're safely away from moving parts. Keep the safety glasses clean and un-fogged. Use hearing protection when needed. Turn your tunes on and relax.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

No project is 100% perfect in the eyes of the builder!


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

End the day in the shop early. Don't work when you start to wear down. Attention to safety and detail suffer
when you lose your edge. Another thing lighting in the shop-more is better.


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## InstantSiv (Jan 12, 2014)

Dust collection… I hate sweeping.


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

Measuring correctly when needing something super accurate has nothing to do with the woodworker's ability to read a rule. 
Always use the same tape measure throughout a project. 
On the super accurate measurements, use a hard rule or start your measuring with the "1" in the tape. Never trust that metal piece on the end of a tape.


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

If a recently installed table saw blade is not cutting, make sure it is not installed backwards. 
No, seriously, I've done that.

Also, if you buy a bandsaw blade that has the teeth pointing in the wrong direction, flip it inside out before getting half way to the store to return it. 
Don't EVEN ask how I know that one.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

William that's a good one, starting your measurement at the #1. Just don't forget to subtract one from the measure that you read, because I've done that much more than once.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

My tip is to have a separate tip forum. This could turn into a long thread, and I avoid threads with thousands of replies.

A tip forum would be able to group like tips together into topics for easier use.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

> I ve learned to always cut long. I can always cut again if it s too long but it s harder to glue the pieces together if I cut the wood short. I always measure twice, in two different spots, then will connects the dots with a square ( if permissible). I prefer to CYA, it might a little bit too much but I don t have thousands of board feet sitting around so I cherish what I have.
> 
> - Standingwoodpecker


As a note, I do have thousands of board feet around. But mistakes are time consuming and expensive. Take the time to do it right.


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

Y'all are amazing! Keep them coming!


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

Silicone spatulas make great glue spreaders. 
And the other tip is to hide them if you took them from your wife's kitchen.


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

> Silicone spatulas make great glue spreaders.
> And the other tip is to hide them if you took them from your wife s kitchen.
> 
> - William


I bet your wife has figured out where they go! LOLOL


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## MikeThrockmorton (Nov 4, 2013)

Look at the wood you are going to use.

Look closely.

Look for "features" and problems.

Look for things you may need to do to accommodate issues.

Do this before you start milling.


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## NoThanks (Mar 19, 2014)

You can find more tips here.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/60247


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## lateralus819 (Mar 24, 2013)

Need to route a dado precisely on a line?

Mark the center of the dado/groove. Put a V groove bit in the router, adjust the guide to put the tip of the bit on the line. Set the guide, and install the bit of choice.


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## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

First rule of power tool safety - Never put your fingers anywhere that you wouldn't put your dick.

Crude, yes. But memorable.


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## OldWrangler (Jan 13, 2014)

I have found for increased accuracy and safety, make and use some kind of jig. One of the best is a cross cut sled for your table saw. I also have one for getting a straight edge on a board with crooked live edge, one for cutting perfect 45 degree angles, one for slicing very thin strips and several for finger joints of different sizes.

They are quick to make, plans and videos are available here and on Youtube.

And you can never use too many clamps on a glue-up.


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## cdaniels (Apr 16, 2014)

anytime you think about the timeframe to give a client on the piece they ordered, add a couple days just in case to keep your reputation of completing projects on time intact!


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## spclPatrolGroup (Jun 23, 2010)

Always lay down some butcher paper wax side up on your bench during glue ups, glue doesn't stick to the wax.
Also don't apply finish with a flashlight during a power outage.


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## PLK (Feb 11, 2014)

My real contribution to this thread.

My marking tool, a millwaulkee fastback knife. It's precise and keeps an edge.

Paul


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Always mill enough extra for test pieces.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

Before you build a project sit down and think through exactly how you are going to build it every step of the way. Make some notes. You will see some problems. Solve those. Then design and build it. You will invariably save time and material doing it this way. Don't get in a hurry.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

> Always mill enough extra for test pieces.
> 
> - Roger


Boy you said a mouthful! Great tip.


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## Vincent (Mar 10, 2009)

On large projects, do a thorough walk through of where the piece will be located. You may need to change your design and make the project in modules/sections or use knock down hardware. Nothing is more frustrating than having a great piece of furniture that is too large to maneuver into position or get around corners, etc. Plan out the moving route so you don't hit archways, can't get through a door or hit hanging light fixtures.


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## Vincent (Mar 10, 2009)

If you are tired, frustrated, angry, distracted….don't start up a power tool or you may add injured to your list of problems.


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## Vincent (Mar 10, 2009)

When you break down lumber to rough size, be patient and give it a day or two to equilibrate. You may have parts that warp and twist once they are cut to size.


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## gardentiger (Apr 7, 2010)

The workshop is not a place to go when you are tired.


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## don1960 (Jan 16, 2011)

When you read the instructions on a can of finish and it says to apply in LIGHT coats, take that to heart.

This falls under 'do as i say, not as I do' too many times. sigh.


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

We shared this tip over on our Facebook page that might be helpful to those new to woodworking.

*The Simple, (Not So) Secret Trick to Evenly Stained Woodworking Projects*
http://www.curbly.com/users/chrisjob/posts/14263-the-simple-not-so-secret-trick-to-evenly-stained-woodworking-projects



> Sandpaper doesn't actually make things smoother, it makes them uniformly rough. So, the idea is to make the uniform roughness of the end grain a little smaller than that of the side grain, to compensate for the open structure of the fibers.
> 
> So, if you sand your side grain to 150, sand the end grain to 220. If you sand the side grain to 220, sand the end to 320, and so forth.


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## smokie (Dec 29, 2012)

Slow down. It's not a race. Haste usually makes waste.


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

> Slow down. It s not a race. Haste usually makes waste.
> 
> - Mark


That seems true with most things in life.


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## DavidWhite (Jun 2, 2009)

Just because its called a square, doesn't mean that it is.


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

I found this tip on Family Handyman!
http://www.familyhandyman.com/woodworking/furniture-repair/furniture-repair-and-finishing-tips



> *Low-cost custom mallet*
> 
> Dave's mallet for tapping furniture parts together-and apart-is pretty simple. "My rubber mallet was too big to get into small spaces, so I slipped a 1-in. rubber foot from the hardware store onto a ball peen hammer. It fits in tight spots and focuses the hammer blow more accurately during disassembly and glue-ups."
> 
> The rubber feet are inexpensive and come in various diameters (3/4 in. to 1-1/2 in.). Take your hammer to the store to be sure you get one that fits.


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## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

I use ¾" rubber feet on my bench dogs to cushion held parts. When the dogs are not in use, the chair tips prevent the dogs from falling through the workbench.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Oh wow there is so many, here's a couple, heat makes dried wood glue into putty and is also great for undoing bad glue joints, second instead of buying wood putty, make your own, a scrap piece of wax paper a puddle of tite bond, mix the sawdust from the wood you are working with making it into a past and for the small cracks just pour a dab of wood glue into the crack and sand over it allowing the sawdust to fall in and the crack is vanished.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Make your measuring task easier with a story stick. Easy to repeat the same measurement over and over.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/104428


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

In addition to checking out the projects here on LJ, you may find inspiration by browsing woodworking on Pinterest! http://www.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=woodworking


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## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

OK

Here is one.

When you run out of patience hit your thumb with a hammer before breaking your project or hitting someone else.


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

YouTube is an amazing resource for woodworkers!


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

After building a machine shop mainly to be able to make metal jigs etc to help me stay safe in the woodshop with my problems. I very soon realised that my machine skills were next to zero.I attended over the next five years each friday a retired engineers club where I learned all about various aspects of machining the whole nine yards.This has made me adopt a completely different way of woodworking or combinations of both.I learned a lot of useful engineering tips which became most advantageous when coming up against some woodworking challenges. Alistair


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

BLO is only good for starting fires.


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Tip #3- End messy paint can rims!


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## SamB (Aug 13, 2014)

Don't drink and saw. Save it to celebrate when you are done.


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

> Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Tip #3- End messy paint can rims!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The only problem with drilling or punching holes in the troughs of paint cans is the paint is prone to dry out quicker from the air holes.


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## newwoodbutcher (Aug 6, 2010)

ALLWAYS test coloring and finish on scrap pieces of the same material all the way from surface prep through the final coat


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## PLK (Feb 11, 2014)

> Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Tip #3- End messy paint can rims!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This will cause a film to develope over the top layer of paint. It's even more so pronounced in poly or any sealing liquid. I would highly not recommend this method if you are storing containers for more than 12 hours.

Paul


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

Very cool!


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## michaelsgarage (Feb 15, 2013)

when building furniture with plywood, don't cheap out on the plywood. a lesson i learnt this past week


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

Is My Tape Measure Accurate?


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

Woodworking Tip: Finishing - How to Repair Wood Cracks


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## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

cricket very good thread ,thanks


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Make one of these for inside measurements. Goes from the work directly to the saw.









Avoid using a measuring tape or ruler as much as you can. Several sizes of key way stock and a pair of 123 blocks will serve you well.

Mix up equal parts corn meal and powdered laundry soap for a great hand cleaner. A teaspoon in your palm and hot water will clean your hands of nearly anything. Cheaper than other soaps and just as effective.

Keep a box of toilet wax ring stuff close to the bench. When you have a job requiring screws, stick them in the wax to keep them handy and lubricated.

409 is a pretty good blade cleaner.


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## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

Gene got one of those and they are handy ,always try to avoid tape measurements too


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

eddie, almost as handy as that dandy little red Woodpecker square.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

Date all your chemicals and perishables. Make note of shelf life when reusing opened containers.
Material Safety Data Sheets are your friend. Do not treat chemical inhalation lightly and make sure you read through them. Take the time to download them from the mfg website.


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## rustfever (May 3, 2009)

Use a story pole when building most anything.

Build a jig first if you are building two or more of the same item.


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## OldWrangler (Jan 13, 2014)

I find staining the parts before assembly will avoid places like glue squeeze outs that later will not take the stain. Also it is much easier to stain the inside of the box before it is assembled.


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

Some of you may enjoy this one…

Have you done this?

Cutting a Log on a Bandsaw


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

Keep the tips coming!


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

Never start an argument with your wife, you will never win it and somehow, somewhere you will pay for.

I would add: never work with power tools is you are not 100% OK, anger,hurry, tiredness and any strong emotions are a call for accidents


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

Cricket, I used to have my own sawmill and I have cut logs on my band saw.


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

After scraping down some cabinets and trying different brands of polyacrylics and methods of application, I found the easiest was General Finishes water based polyacrylic applied with a staining pad.


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## Pono (Mar 10, 2012)

When a company says they are a 400 million a year business but take a month to pay bills charge them triple.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Not really woodworking, but related. When you are remodeling your kitchen, keep your small appliances' mounting bracket with your appliance, or at the very least, post a note on the appliance where you have temporarily stored the bracket!

We still haven't found the bracket to the toaster oven! I did find the bracket to the microwave so that was a small victory.


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## emiliof (Dec 10, 2012)

Follow safety advise with blind faith. You don't want to learn the reason behind a weird safety rule from an accident!


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## wfedwardsjr (Sep 14, 2012)

Always remember which direction your power tools are spinning (especially router!)


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

I recently made a project with some quality plywood. There was a knot filled with wood filler on the side I wanted to use. The filler was smooth and looked totally unnatural. I solved this by coloring the unnatural part with a black sharpie (permanent marker). with a very light sanding just before finishing the knot will look very natural or at least be less noticeable.

The two photos below show the uncolored knot and the colored knot.


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## kiyoshigawa (Aug 30, 2013)

If you're using a hand saw and you find it binding, rub an oily rag along the saw. This just made my dado cutting about 5x easier. Slid smooth and easily, instead of binding every few strokes.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

> When a company says they are a 400 million a year business but take a month to pay bills charge them triple.
> 
> - Joseph Jossem


That is good. Be forewarned, when they do billions a year, they take 9 to 10 months to pay.


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## Chemie555 (Aug 14, 2014)

> Do not use varnish or lacquer or paint over cedar. Use clear, semi transparent or opaque stain.
> 
> The oils in cedar will shed varnish and many paint coatings- they will peel right off in time.
> 
> - Jim Jakosh


Thanks for this tip. I'm building a outside chair and was thinking varnish. What about epoxy based?


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## Chemie555 (Aug 14, 2014)

Always model or draw out my idea to catch potential areas of trouble. I use sketch up from google. Took a while to figure it out but there are free help videos online. Once I've modeled it I copy the project and explode the pieces. This allows me to easily figure what wood I need. Wish I had a printer that could print actual size templates.


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

> Wish I had a printer that could print actual size templates.
> 
> - chemie555


Full-sized templates are indispensible in my shop. With limited printer capabilities, templates can be pieced together using registration techniques.


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## FancyShoes (Aug 31, 2014)

I like some of these tips, and the nothing happens until something moves is a procrastinators problem… I became more productive to become less procrastinating.


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

Using Cauls and Playing Cards for Even Clamp Pressure…


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Great tip Cricket. Thanks.


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## Vincent (Mar 10, 2009)

Put your biscuits or loose tenon stock in the microwave for about 45 second at full power before using them. They shrink a bit and fit the slots/mortises better. Once they come in contact with glue, they swell up again for a nice tight joint.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

> Using Cauls and Playing Cards for Even Clamp Pressure…
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good tip, but why did he use a 3 degree gauge instead of a perfect 90/ perpendicular?


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

*bob*

he is making a tapered shelf tower
not parallel sides


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Ok, that makes sense ;-) Thanks


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

Wood Tips: Router - Zero Clearance Router Table Fence


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ZCRTF….
Looks like Don will have to add to his list of acronyms!!!

Great tip Cricket, thanks!!!


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

Cricket, please understand that giving a platform to the "Woodworkers' Guild of America" is enabling predatory business practices. This person and organization sends out unsolicited videos to unsuspecting people whose addresses he harvests from otherwise upstanding woodworking entities such as this one. He then asks for payment or for the unrequested videos to be returned at the receiver's expense.

Are you sure this site really wants to be connected with this type of activity and organization ? Please think seriously about this. I certainly hope he is not paying this site for this exposure.


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

Yonak, I am just looking at the information, nothing more, nothing less. They are not an advertiser with us.

No one is advising you to share you address with them.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

It is my understanding that anything you receive in the mail, unsolicited, is a gift. You don't have to pay for it or send it back.


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

You will find great tips for disassembling pallets in this article. 
http://oldworldgardenfarms.com/2012/09/18/building-with-pallets-how-to-disassemble-a-pallet-with-ease-for-great-wood/


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Don't assume desiccant packs will keep your cast iron tools moisture free.


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## difalkner (Mar 11, 2013)

Always dry fit pieces in your project before gluing, make sure everything fits, and make certain all of your clamps are handy and ready to be applied where you want them.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

Tip of the Day:

Take some time at the computer to print out a conversion table for inches to mm and also a table for fractions to decimal numbers. Use a range you know you will use. Up to a half inch is usually good.

Put it on a clipboard or tape a copy to a place where it is readily accessible. Makes your life a little easier when you need to drill that hole and your calipers are already taking point.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

> Don t assume desiccant packs will keep your cast iron tools moisture free.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


Depending on the humidity where they are stored, desiccant may only be good for a day in some states!


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

Have you ever tried to drill a larger hole over a hole you have already drilled?

If you have, you know that it can be tricky to get the bit to stay where you lined it up since it does not have anything to dig into. LIke when you are using a forstner bit to recess a nut on a bolt you just drilled a hole for.

Take a scrap piece of 2×4 wood and drill a hole the size you want to drill. Then, just screw, clamp, or nail the scrap directly over your hole for guidance. This is great for times when the work piece is too large for the drill press.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

An old beer funnel works provides an easy bathroom in your shop. Just drill a hole big enough for the tubing, put a screw through the funnel to hold it up and voila! You just gave yourself a couple extra minutes of shop time instead of using the bathroom inside!

(Do not # 2 in it. It will not end well. Believe me)


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## brtech (May 26, 2010)

> Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Tip #3- End messy paint can rims!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I wanna get back to this one (sorry for the delay). MM drilled that hole at the bottom of the rim. When you put the lid on, it seals from the sides of the rim. When you put the lid on, the hole is underneath the seal, and it won't cause the finish to dry out.


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

> MM drilled that hole at the bottom of the rim. When you put the lid on, it seals from the sides of the rim. When you put the lid on, the hole is underneath the seal, and it won t cause the finish to dry out.
> 
> - brtech


Compromising the effectiveness of one of the sealing rims doubles the opportuniity for the paint to dry out. Paint cans are designed with a double seal for a reason. If making the can with only one sealing rim would work just as well they would be made that way as it does have advantages .. easier opening and elimination of pooling paint interfering with the closure of the can, making brushing out the paint before closing unnecessary, being two.

Incidentally, Mike failed to account for the fact that the metal filings are now down in the paint.


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## brtech (May 26, 2010)

Don't follow that. The seal is from the sides of the rim, not the bottom. The rim could be bottomless and get a good seal if you could make it, and still get rigidity in the sides (neither of which you can do with a simple die).

but you are right about hole drilling debris in the can.


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

The holes are between the two seals rendering the inside one ineffective.


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## BLarge (Aug 29, 2011)

Learn to sharpen to razor sharp… Woodworking is nothing but frustrating until you have sharp tools…

Learn to sketch out and perfect technical drawings… It's saves on materials, mistakes, bad design flaws and leads to more satisfaction

Be gutsy and saw to the lines… You know what I mean…..


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Matthias Wandel sells a bigprint software:
http://woodgears.ca/bigprint/


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## rustfever (May 3, 2009)

Baggies and a felt tip pen. 
When disassembling an item, put all of the pieces in a baggie upon which you have written necessary information, including the date.
Great also for the 'extra' nuts, bolts, and hardware pieces that come with new tools and shop equipment. Also great way to store owners/parts manuals.
Great way to store the small parts for an uncompleted project.


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

> Baggies and a felt tip pen.
> When disassembling an item, put all of the pieces in a baggie upon which you have written necessary information, including the date.
> Great also for the extra nuts, bolts, and hardware pieces that come with new tools and shop equipment. Also great way to store owners/parts manuals.
> Great way to store the small parts for an uncompleted project.
> ...


I'm with you so far, Rustfever. My question is : then what do I do with it ? How do I find it when I need it ?

Also, that stray nut I find on the floor that I don't know what it came off of .. where do I put it so, when, say, the table saw extension begins to sag, I can put the nut back on ?


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## Chemie555 (Aug 14, 2014)

I learned what not to do- Don't use Microfiber towels/rags in the workshop. LOL.


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## MadJester (Sep 30, 2011)

I was always taught that the customer is always right…this is a lie.

The customer has an idea in their head that often is not only unrealistic, but complete fantasy.

Customers are color blind.

Customers don't have to do the work.

Lesson learned: Stop doing furniture pieces for customers…it's not worth the headache…make what you want to make…refinish what you want to refinish…if it sells, it sells…if it doesn't, make sure you pick out something that you like, because you may be owning it for a while. Make what pleases you…life is too short…make the most of it…


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

> I learned what not to do- Don t use Microfiber towels/rags in the workshop. LOL.
> 
> - Chemie555


Microfiber is a demon material sent by the God of Frustration. When we use paper napkins at the dinner table, instead of throwing them away I put them in bins in the woodshop and garage and, when that spill inevitably occurs I throw a bunch of paper napkins on it to soak it up.


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## Scottlj (Sep 11, 2013)

Use 'relative' construction. I might have gotten that from the WoodWhisperer guy. That is, yes… measure your major components to fit as you need them, but a lot of the time, it doesn't make sense to use a tape measure. Just a story stick or some other means to check the actual, real dimensions of a space. Since I don't own and likely won't be getting a planer, sometimes stock thickness may be off by 1/32" or whatever. Just subtracting the 3/4" for the supposed width of plywood may not be good enough. Especially if you're trying to get the right spacing for drawers with unforgiving gap distances for the sliders, (or similar issues).


Don't take shortcuts with the table saw. If you screw something up and need another cut, but you've already changed the setup, too bad. Go back and do what's necessary to re-set, rather than try to make it happen.


Clean and wax the table saw parts. Smooth makes for safer and better cuts.


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## Straightlines (Mar 20, 2013)

Hey Cricket, great idea! Thanks for starting it.

-Bradley


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## Straightlines (Mar 20, 2013)

> MM drilled that hole at the bottom of the rim. When you put the lid on, it seals from the sides of the rim. When you put the lid on, the hole is underneath the seal, and it won t cause the finish to dry out.
> 
> - brtech
> 
> ...


All good, accurate points, to which I'll add that while I normally really like to follow a DIY path, for reasons of my own personal satisfaction, a distaste for heaps of things to store and keep track of, and to avoid spending money on things that can be done DIY instead, there are some gadgets that are worth buying simply because they provide a simpler and more effective solution to a problem.

To whit, I recently saw a very cool item at HD that directly solves this very problem and is easily the best solution to this problem that I've ever seen-it might actually permanently solve it. The gadget is an HDPE (basic cheap plastic to which paint will not stick) ring that completely snaps inside the can's rim; the ring is about 2" tall and flares gently outward and acts not only to keep the rim clean but also helps strike the excess paint from the brush after the dip. The flare should also facilitate pouring from the can. This gadget is <$3. A no-brainer for me.

-Bradley


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

> I was always taught that the customer is always right…this is a lie.
> 
> The customer has an idea in their head that often is not only unrealistic, but complete fantasy.
> 
> ...


My boss says Customers are always right, but we have Clients. Clients pay us for our knowledge and experience.

I would put woodworking in that category as well.


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## Straightlines (Mar 20, 2013)

> I don t care how many tape measure you have in the shop, or even how "good" they may be. When you start a project, use ONE, and only one. Tape measure are usually close to each other…..NOT! Half the time: it is that wee hook out on the end of the tape that gets beat up. Bends a bit, and measurements change with it. Then, if you would change to another tape…...measurements will be different. What MIGHT be a 15-3/4" long piece with one tape, might be off by 1/16" on another tape.
> 
> Pick one tape measure for a project, use it through out the project. After that, use it again if you like it, if not..throw it out.
> 
> ...


I don't use a tape measure for the reasons you mention, instead I use a folding carpenter's rule that has the slide-out brass measuring tip. That measuring tip is key because it allows the rule to be used like a story stick and is fantastic for no-calculation cutting tool settings.

-Bradley


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## difalkner (Mar 11, 2013)

> I was always taught that the customer is always right…this is a lie.


Right there with you on that! I had a furniture business for about 5 or 6 years and we did restorations, refinishing, repairs, designed and built custom furniture, etc., and my philosophy was (is) that the customer is always the customer but they aren't always right.


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## intelligen (Dec 28, 2009)

I swear there was already a similar thread where I posted these two tips:

Keep at least two drills on hand-one for drilling and one for driving.

Don't waste your money on NiCd batteries (or tools that come with them, unless you're getting a great deal and plan on throwing out the batteries), because they're never ready to go when you are. Buy [tools with] Lithium-Ion/Lithium-Polymer batteries instead. If NiMH batteries are available in your region, those are fine, as well.


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## Straightlines (Mar 20, 2013)

> Wish I had a printer that could print actual size templates.
> 
> - chemie555
> 
> ...


Sylvain's tip beat me to the punch, but there is one MAJOR caveat Mathias' app: It is NOT Mac compatible!!!! Grrrr sez me, the Mac user….

-Bradley

-Bradley


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## Straightlines (Mar 20, 2013)

> Baggies and a felt tip pen.
> When disassembling an item, put all of the pieces in a baggie upon which you have written necessary information, including the date.
> Great also for the extra nuts, bolts, and hardware pieces that come with new tools and shop equipment. Also great way to store owners/parts manuals.
> Great way to store the small parts for an uncompleted project.
> ...


Rust's tip is a fave trick of mine-I am a nutty conservationist who washes and reuses his costly Ziplock Freezer Bags until they are no good for food storage. But wait! That's when I move the less than perfect bags to the shop (cleaned 1 last time of course). Those bags have that snazzy white paint stripe that is perfect for labeling the small parts.

Yonak, here's my tip: Unfortunately, I'm one of those guys who has an old house and a To-do list that looks almost like a phone book, so as Yonak noted, there is an abundance of Ziplock baggies w/ parts and misc that quickly become their own source of disorganization. I have tamed this by buying a bunch of those $0.99 clear "shoebox" storage boxes that I found at HD, and I use these as labeled "general topic" or project driven holding bins that stack and fit nicely on shelves and in cupboards. It helps to drop my notes, sketches, manuals, photos and any other paper items in the bin as well because it makes it very easy to see exactly where I was on any given project and quickly get back to work on it.

-Bradley


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

Looking for an inexpensive non skid pad for routing, sanding, or just keeping a piece of wood from sliding across the bench?

Drop by the Dollar Store and pick up some inexpensive shelf lining material. For $5, you have more material than you will ever need to get the job done.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

Trying to keep this thread alive.

5 gallon buckets make great scrap holders in a pinch. Especially for taller, thinner pieces that you just hate to get rid of.

But, when it is time to dispose of it, it is easy to carry off and dump.


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## dozer57 (Apr 18, 2014)

I learned a good lesson over the weekend. When you are at a auction sale never let your wife bid for you, she may not have the same passion for old hand tools. Here it is finally an estate sale with tons of old tools and two rings selling at same time, wife at one and me at the other. On her side was a carpenters chest full of hand tools…..hand saws, brace bits levels, chisels and squares. Best of all every size hand plane a man could want, 13 of them including a rabbiting plane. Every thing was in great shape so I told her to buy it. After it sold I asked her what it cost me for the chest, she said she went to $65 and it sold for $70. F#&@? I told her to buy it. Lesson learned do a proxy bid!!









Oh well I bought several others a my price.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Take a basic course in metalworking or at least read a book on metalworking. Knowledge of metal working will greatly improve your woodworking accuracy; especially in taking measurements and laying out for cuts.

When edge jointing a piece of wood, make pencil marks on the edge so you can see where the knives have cut.

Don't cheap-out on measuring tools. A quality combination square should be in everyone's tool box.

A utility knife will mark just as well as a $25 marking knife.


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## Straightlines (Mar 20, 2013)

> Don t assume desiccant packs will keep your cast iron tools moisture free.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


Really??! :-0 Please tell us more about this.

-Bradley


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

Three Great Shop Tricks And Tips


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I keep the plastic lids from the top of the 1 pound containers for holding wet sponges, glue brushes, dripping glue bottles, and paint brushes keeping glue and/or paint off of the workbench.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I received a brand new Veritas smoothing plane for Christmas a couple years back and I had some unused and still sealed desicant packs I used to use when I winterized my boat. I put the plane in a plastic drawer in a roll around card months later (~ July) and in an unconditioned shop. I wanted to eliminate the possibility of rust so I threw one of the packs in with it, but not touching it. Using it on and off for a few months, it sat idle for a couple months and when I reached for it again, it had surface rust over most of the exposed machined body and some on the iron as well. I was mortified, it did clean up well but served as a lesson learned. Not sure why it happed, the desicant pack should have still been good, but clearly wasn't doing it's job.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

I totally agree, Scott.
Below are some of the tools I keep at the ready for "relative construction". Key way stock from 1/8 thru 3/4 in 16th increments, a pair of 123 blocks, a marking knife and a story stick for finding inside dimensions. The latter is simply a glued block, dadoed before gluing, a thumb screw in an insert and 1/8X1/4 aluminum bar stock.












> Use relative construction. I might have gotten that from the WoodWhisperer guy. That is, yes… measure your major components to fit as you need them, but a lot of the time, it doesn t make sense to use a tape measure. Just a story stick or some other means to check the actual, real dimensions of a space. Since I don t own and likely won t be getting a planer, sometimes stock thickness may be off by 1/32" or whatever. Just subtracting the 3/4" for the supposed width of plywood may not be good enough. Especially if you re trying to get the right spacing for drawers with unforgiving gap distances for the sliders, (or similar issues).
> 
> 
> Don t take shortcuts with the table saw. If you screw something up and need another cut, but you ve already changed the setup, too bad. Go back and do what s necessary to re-set, rather than try to make it happen.
> ...


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

We eat a LOT of ice cream. I use the plastic lids from the 5 qt. ice cream containers. Great for mixing epoxy on and can be cut for shims, as well.


> I keep the plastic lids from the top of the 1 pound containers for holding wet sponges, glue brushes, dripping glue bottles, and paint brushes keeping glue and/or paint off of the workbench.
> 
> - oldnovice


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

Tired of the hassle of cutting or routing a circle with your hand held router and getting all wrapped up in the power cord and vacuum line?

Get a lazy susan (I used one off a broken pneumatic swivel chair) and then you can spin the work, and not the router.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

> We eat a LOT of ice cream. I use the plastic lids from the 5 qt. ice cream containers. Great for mixing epoxy on and can be cut for shims, as well.
> 
> I keep the plastic lids from the top of the 1 pound containers for holding wet sponges, glue brushes, dripping glue bottles, and paint brushes keeping glue and/or paint off of the workbench.
> 
> ...


Can you use the quart size lids?

Me and the wife are trying to watch our weight.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Regarding dessicant packs: I would assume that they work by absorbing moisture, and that they have a finite capacity to do so, unless there is a way to drive the moisture back out, such as by heating in the oven. Once at capacity, they would no longer offer protection, I would think.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

> Regarding dessicant packs: I would assume that they work by absorbing moisture, and that they have a finite capacity to do so, unless there is a way to drive the moisture back out, such as by heating in the oven. Once at capacity, they would no longer offer protection, I would think.
> 
> - runswithscissors


You are correct.

I do not think most people can appreciate the amount of water that is contained in air.

Just watch an AC system condensate drain for a while, when it is running, to get some sense of just how much water there is.

Desiccants are great in very small, sealed, containers for short periods of time.

Desiccants are all but worthless when exposed to ambient air in a very short time.

Here in Texas, no amount of dessicant will work for more than 24 hours. In drier climates like Arizona, you may get a week. But for all intent and purposes, desiccant is not designed for ambient exposure.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Brad,
It's so dry here in AZ, that used desiccant is sent here to rejuvenate. 
I haven't had a tool rust in 45 years.

Quart sized plastic lids would work but not nearly as enjoyable getting them.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

If you're getting tired or frustrated… it's time to quit. You'll just keep making more and bigger mistakes if you obstinately press on.


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## Straightlines (Mar 20, 2013)

> Can you use the quart size lids?
> 
> Me and the wife are trying to watch our weight.
> 
> - timbertailor


Oh yeah, for sure … but you'll have to cut back on your project size too :-0 !!

-Bradley


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

I know most of us are pretty good about keeping our table saw waxed to prevent rust and help wood move more smoothly over the top.

But, when was the last time you pulled out a can of aluminium polish to clean the fence rail?

Sawdust collects and the resins can quickly accumulate to the point that the fence does not operate very well.

Neglect this chore, and you will be breaking out the die grinder to get it all off!


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

> If you re getting tired or frustrated… it s time to quit. You ll just keep making more and bigger mistakes if you obstinately press on.
> 
> - Mainiac Matt


Good advice.

Sometimes I will take a break, cool off, rehydrate, and then go back to start a more critical part of assembly or cutting. And that is not even being frustrated. If you get your nose out of joint, stay away from the power tools for a while.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Remember that some mistakes can be called design features!


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## cynic73 (Jul 15, 2014)

Slow down and think about what your doing. Get a zero clearance insert immediately right after you get a table saw. It should be next purchase or build, then use push stick you purchased or made every time all the time.


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## comboprof (Aug 26, 2013)

> I know most of us are pretty good about keeping our table saw waxed to prevent rust and help wood move more smoothly over the top.
> 
> But, when was the last time you pulled out a can of aluminium polish to clean the fence rail?
> 
> ...


Aluminum polish??? Its made of steel …. oh maybe my saw is a little older than yours.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

> I know most of us are pretty good about keeping our table saw waxed to prevent rust and help wood move more smoothly over the top.
> 
> But, when was the last time you pulled out a can of aluminium polish to clean the fence rail?
> 
> ...


Maybe. My Delta is about 35 years old.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Always do your high class finishing under good lighting. I just found this out the hard way. At least it's fixable.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Learn to trust the Mystical Conveyor Belt, when you've set something down and can't find it again. Eventually, when you're poking around in the most unlikely place, the lost item will suddenly show up, and you'll be able to complete that stalled project.


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## Cricket (Jan 15, 2014)

My tip of the day…

Check out Pinterest now and then for some inspiration!

I found this great article there for these amazing ideas for pallet projects!
http://martysmusings.net/2013/05/20-amazing-uses-for-old-pallets.html


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

When removing old staples or nails I put them in a plastic Nesquick can so that they don't get put in the trash loose and end up in the road. The can when full can be either sealed and thrown out, or used as a doorstop. Old razor blades can also go in there as well as any small, sharp metal objects.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

Have you even wanted to glue something up and for one reason or another, and you just could not get a clamp on it?

And, you did not want to use nails or screws?

If you can, use a pin nailer and a scrap piece of wood. Make sure the nails you are using are the correct length, and nail through the scrap temporarily until the glue dries. Pull the nail with the scrap piece of wood when done.


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

> Have you even wanted to glue something up and for one reason or another, and you just could not get a clamp on it?
> 
> And, you did not want to use nails or screws?
> 
> ...


Brad, the only problem is pulling the pin from the good piece of wood. I often have the problem of them breaking off when pulling from the flat side.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I have a quart plastic spackling paste container that sits on top of an old, very large speaker magnet and that is where I toss all my old/used nails, screws, and whatever else may cause problems in my shop or on the road.

Similar to what *Dave Rutan* does and mentioned above!


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## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

> Have you even wanted to glue something up and for one reason or another, and you just could not get a clamp on it?
> 
> And, you did not want to use nails or screws?
> 
> ...


Nail length is the key to this problem, as I alluded to. Too long a nail into your work, and it can occur.


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## Picklehead (Feb 12, 2013)

> .
> 
> - ksSlim


I can't believe I didn't think of this myself!


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

> .
> 
> - ksSlim
> 
> ...


Picklehead,
If you decide to try '.', be careful not to confuse it with ','. I speak from experience.


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## ChrisK (Dec 18, 2009)

You can never have too many sharp pencils in the shop.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

> You can never have too many sharp pencils in the shop.
> 
> - ChrisK


That's a fact, Jack!


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

My pencils are sharp….
Can't say the same…. for me!!!


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## Picklehead (Feb 12, 2013)

> .
> 
> - ksSlim
> 
> ...


Yes, Chuck, that is a "comman" mistake.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

I gave up on #2 pencils. I now go to the dollar store and by packs of five Bic, or the like, mechanical pencils.


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## Doe (Aug 26, 2010)

Use the small plastic components bags from pen kits as finger puppets to apply CA glue.


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## Doe (Aug 26, 2010)

> No project is 100% perfect in the eyes of the builder!
> 
> - oldnovice


Corollary: the builder may not like a project, but if the customer does then the builder should suck it up.


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## Doe (Aug 26, 2010)

> Always lay down some butcher paper wax side up on your bench during glue ups, glue doesn t stick to the wax.
> Also don t apply finish with a flashlight during a power outage.
> 
> - spclPatrolGroup


I use a roll of regular wax paper for gluing and when doing anything with epoxy.


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## Doe (Aug 26, 2010)

Use mechanical pencils. I bought a dozen for $10.


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## Doe (Aug 26, 2010)

> Regarding dessicant packs: I would assume that they work by absorbing moisture, and that they have a finite capacity to do so, unless there is a way to drive the moisture back out, such as by heating in the oven. Once at capacity, they would no longer offer protection, I would think.
> 
> - runswithscissors


Here's a silica gel dehumidifier


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## Doe (Aug 26, 2010)

Have a bin labelled "If you can't find it, it's here" and put mystery parts in it. This is especially handy when moving.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

was reading that charcoal was used in the old days
some charcoal briquets in the drawers
kept the moisture down (desiccant)

take them out from time to time
and lay them in the sun for a bit
maybe keep a tuna can in the drawer
to keep them from crumpling into the tools

found on google

A natural alternative to desiccants, charcoal briquettes can also be effective in absorbing moisture and eliminating musty odors. You can place them inside pouches like the silica gel, place them inside a basket or bucket lined with plastic or foil, or set them on a metal tray. Be careful not to set them against anything that you wouldn't want stained or marked-charcoal stains can be extremely difficult to remove. Also, make sure you do not use the briquettes that are pre-soaked in lighter fluid.

Every 30 to 60 days, replace the briquettes to keep the air in your storage unit fresh.


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## muleskinner (Sep 24, 2011)

When you tell your wife you can build that end table or cabinet cheaper than she can buy it DO NOT include the cost of the tools you're going to have an excuse to buy.

The ratchet straps you use on your pickup make perfectly serviceable band straps and a pack of four is cheaper than one from any woodworking supplier.

Mistakes are simply an opportunity to refine your design.

No matter how large your shop is, you need a larger one.


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## Grumpy4300 (Nov 4, 2010)

Don't use sharp tools when it's late and you're tired! Only accident I've had in 50 years of woodworking was late at night two days before Christmas. Sure miss that finger tip!


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## Doe (Aug 26, 2010)

After trying to blow the dust off a turning while wearing a face shield, I got something that you squeeze to blow dust off camera lenses. It didn't make much sense to have something filter the air and then lift it so that I could blow off dust (and into me). Thinking about it now, any squeeze bottle should do just as well.


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## Doe (Aug 26, 2010)

After trying to blow the dust off a turning while wearing a face shield, I got something that you squeeze to blow dust off camera lenses. It didn't make much sense to have something filter the air and then lift it so that I could blow off dust (and into me). Thinking about it now, any squeeze bottle should do just as well.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

Poor mans Z-Clips..
I sometimes use metal carpet transition molding for z-clips to hang things. May not be as heavy duty as regular clips but it's much cheaper. Buy 8' lengths at any big box store and cut to whatever size you need.


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## iminmyshop (Dec 9, 2012)

Buy the best tools and machines you can afford. Good carpenters don't blame their tools because they don't have to. Good carpenters buy good tools.


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## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

this thread is way too long and last one was posted in 2014 cept for this one and the one above..


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

I'm glad it meets with your approval


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Presumably if a thread were too old to revive, it would be locked. Post away, all!


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

It's a double sided sword. 
Start a new thread and you would just get blasted with "there's already a thread on that".


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## eflanders (May 2, 2013)

I have pencils and a sharpener at most of my machines. Mechanical pencils never seem to work right for me. There's always one when and where needed. My DC remote switch has a shower hook on it to hook onto myself when I'm working. That way I can turn it on as needed, when needed. A clean shop helps with accuracy.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Watch the grain before you cut the panels. Good way to screw up a project is to have the grain go the wrong way.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Time to bring this thread back


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## xeddog (Mar 2, 2010)

I have not read through the entire thread so I apologize if this has already been said.

BEFORE you measure twice cut once, make sure you are measuring the right thing at the right place.

Wayne


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## PPK (Mar 8, 2016)

Decide what approach you are going to take toward selling/pricing/giving away your projects. If you don't have a clear idea of this BEFORE you start building a project for someone, it can cause frustration or misunderstanding or ruined friendships. There are lots of articles on here as to how to price your work if you should choose to sell it.


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## PPK (Mar 8, 2016)

This one may sound silly, but I think many of us run into this problem:

Spend more time building than you do buying. If you don't actually build projects, and spend lots of time dreaming up the perfect tool(s), you'll end up buying tools you don't need, wasting money, and never becoming truly proficient at woodworking. The best way to find out what tool you "need" is to start a project and build it. I sometimes cringe when I see the impeccable shops full of the highest end tools that don't look like they've ever been used. Do buy good tools, but only buy them if you need them.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Study grain orientation when using the plane and turning. It'll save you some agony.
Bill


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## fivecodys (Dec 2, 2013)

> When using machinery, think about what you re doing….. not about what you re going to do.
> 
> - Gary


Very very good advice!


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## viseone (Apr 16, 2017)

> What tips have you learned in your woodworking experience that you wish you knew earlier?
> 
> Let s learn from each other and share our tips!
> 
> ...


One tip I would like to share, but it is difficult to follow:
Never spend a fortune on a tool you will use only once or twice.


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## pontic (Sep 25, 2016)

Unplug your table saw before touching the blade with your fingers for any reason.


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## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

Perhaps the most valuable time saving tip(s) I have learned over the years is that all measuring is relative. By definition, measuring is comparing something to a "standard". Most beginners use a "number stick" (ruler of some sort) to determine sizes. But if you are concerned about accuracy, comparing to a number stick with a pencil, no matter how sharp, is fraught with almost unavoidable error. A marking knife used correctly helps, but the most accurate measuring is done by "transfer". A simple linear measure transfer tool is a pair of dividers. When applied cleverly, they are also useful for transferring angles. (think grade school geometry). And for checking squareness. Trammel points are a good tool for larger transfers. There are many other useful tools for transfer.
Expanding on this concept, the notion of a story stick (or in marine work a tick stick) will save your bacon by very efficiently becoming the standard against which all measuring, including joint details, can be done. An entire kitchen can be laid out and cabinets made and fitted from a couple well done story sticks…no rulers required. Story sticks are used to lay out accurate curves of any dimension and can be used to re-create an existing curve that is almost impossible to measure any other way.
Proportions and ratios are applied using the three main reference planes as a starting point for all layout and cutting comparisons. The reference planes are necessary for all project accuracy and eliminate creep or cumulative errors. Usually the 3 main reference planes are left, bottom, and front. Sub-planes, like for drawer or door cutting can be established.
All of the above implies that drawn up plans display the appropriate dimensions from the appropriate starting reference. Most of the time, dimensions are numeric and number sticks are used to quickly approximate the transfer. If dimensions are given as ratios instead, then number sticks become irrelevant. It's a good practice, I've learned, to lay out a story stick from the plans BEFORE any other work on the project. The stick becomes the standard with ALL the details of the project on its various sides. It can be thought of as a "custom ruler" that eliminates most of the transfer issues of number sticks. (think bad memory…)
It's a whole different mind set to do work without number sticks and at first it seems impossible. Eventually, as one continues to apply the principle in simple ways at first, one becomes a hybrid, using transfers as well as number sticks. Sometime, probably just when one is too old to really take advantage of it, number sticks become irrelevant.
We may be coming full circle, because as CNC machines become popular in small woodshops and the craftsman learns to program, he will realize that all CNC moves are calculated from a single reference point. And it's interesting to note, that rulers as we know them, are a relatively recent development.
DanK


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## Just_Iain (Apr 5, 2017)

To paraphrase: "There's a jig for that". If you don't know why and when it's time to build a jig, ask!


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

The dedicated, journey woodworker negotiates his craft because he loves woodworking, not necessarily because he wants a thing at the end.


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## tmsbmx (Jul 3, 2014)

Keep your tools sharp


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## gargey (Apr 11, 2016)

When finishing, don't "go back over" that spot that's not perfect.


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## ceabrm (Dec 29, 2016)

always, no wait, NEVER let my husband play with tools!

my father gave me a hammer that belonged to HIS father. it was old, old steel, the head had been reattached (more than once), the wooden handle badly beaten and gouged yet smooth from decades of handling. the hammer was easily over 75 years old.

husband was in the garage banging away with the hammer, using the cheek to hit something and before i could yell "STOP!!!", the neck of the handle snapped and the steel head flew through the garage.

i was heartbroken.

he saw my shocked face and said, gently, "it's ok babe, it's a craftsman - we can just go get a new one!"


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

Carol, I know a woodworking lawyer that gives discount divorices to fellow woodworkers, I'll PM his info to you! 


> always, no wait, NEVER let my husband play with tools!
> 
> my father gave me a hammer that belonged to HIS father. it was old, old steel, the head had been reattached (more than once), the wooden handle badly beaten and gouged yet smooth from decades of handling. the hammer was easily over 75 years old.
> 
> ...


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Don't trim your nose hairs, they form natural filter media helping to keep your lungs free of dust.


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## ceabrm (Dec 29, 2016)

when using your table saw, always stand to the side of the blade. that way the piece of wood the blade kicks out at the speed of sound goes through the garage door-not your abdomen…ask me how i know this ;-)

and while you're at it-there's no such thing as too many clamps. before cranking up the biscuit cutter, clamp down that piece tight…ask me how i know THIS one lol


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## JCamp (Nov 22, 2016)

If you need a cheap version of CADD instead of paying a couple grand for that program you can use Microsoft Excel as a crude version. You can adjust the cells to be the same height and width then just use the cells to layout your project… Ive used it mostly for designing cabins or shop layout but have used it for a few smaller projects too


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## alittleoff (Nov 27, 2014)

Cut Square, keep it Square. Never try to work it out. Your project will suffer an so will you.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

Be aware of "cumulative error"!

Always use the same piece to make markings for multiple pieces. Like when cutting to length, never use the piece you just cut to make the next piece. Cumulative error creeps in and the last piece will be too long!


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

When painting, take the time to carefully wipe the paint from the lid and can rim or jar top and jar rim before closing up. You won't have to take a welding torch to them the next time you open up! (It took me years to realize this)

After cleaning a paintbrush with thinner, wash the brush with *hot water* and kitchen soap. The hot water relaxes the bristles and the soap washes out the thinner. Then carefully "point" (shape) the brush with your hands before storing it away. Good brushes are expensive. Doing this will make a brush last forever and always paint as well as when it was new.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

Tip to rule them all. No tip of the day will help you till you realize you cut a board too short so you understand better what "measure twice cut once mean"


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

> Tip to rule them all. No tip of the day will help you till you realize you cut a board too short so you understand better what "measure twice cut once mean"
> 
> - Carloz


I cut it twice and it was still too short!


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Punch holes around the half the perimeter of a paint can and pour from that side, it mitigates the need

for a welding torch. Wiping both parts with a rag is a great idea as well!


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

Punching holes is fine to drain the paint can rim, but the coating of paint left will still "glue" the can lid closed. As to using rags, I use paper towels and throw them away. Some say the punched holes a.low air to get into the closed can over time in storage and the paint in the can will thicken and eventually harden. I have my doubts, but who knows.


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## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

I keep a little block of violin bow resin to apply by vigorous rubbing to surfaces that I don't want to be slippery. I see so many videos of saw blades cutting through sandpaper applied to a miter gauge and I cringe like hearing fingernails on chalkboard. A few vigorous strokes applies enough resin to hold very well, IMHO better than sand paper and there is no risk of damage to anything.

If it's supposed to be slippery, Carnuba wax it. If it's supposed to grip, resin it.

DanK


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

I enjoy building smaller more complex things in which I spend a lot of time sitting down at a workbench. A holdover from my model building days. I finally discovered something called a *"watchmaker's apron"* that catches small parts in your lap before hitting the floor and rolling away. It is simply a piece of cloth with one end attached under the front edge of the workbench and the other end pulled up over your lap and even up to your chest. This makes a nice pocket over the lap area that catches anything falling out of your fingers or rolling off the bench. It also keep your pants clean of paint drips and spills. I use an old towel for this, but any heavy cloth should work. It is always hanging in place and is easy to pull over you when sitting down.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

Important!
When cleaning your spray pressure pot, 
NEVER take the nozzle off of the spray gun and point into old bucket of paint.
.
.
.
.
.

Just sayin, splash back is a beyotch…
(ever have to clean your face with lacquer thinner?) LOL


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## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

Yup. Best aftershave there is. Don't have to shave for awhile. There's another tip.

DanK


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Been doing the hole punching in cans thing [using a five-way] for decades. It helps and I haven't lost a can to air with that technique.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

On the recommendations for paint brush care, add that you NEVER throw the cover away and, if you lose it, you make a new one.

I have brushes that are twenty years old and can still be used to cut in all the trim on a French door. The cover shapes the brush, as it dries.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I use zip lock bags to keep my cordless tool chargers in. That keeps the charger free from dust and keeps the cord untangled and neatly stored.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

You are absolutely correct *Kelly*!
I had a brush I bought at Sherwin Williams in Illinois when we moved into our second house in about 1972 and I threw it away in 2007; roughly 35 years!


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