# Latex Primer through Earlex HV5500



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

OK, I'm painting some wainscoting I installed. I recently purchased the Earlex 5500 hvlp system. I've read plenty about spraying latex paints but haven't seen anything about latex primers. My understanding is that primer tends to be thicker and harder to shoot. I'm using Sherwin Williams wood and wall primer. Any suggestions about conditioning/thinning the paint and needle size?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## JesseTutt (Aug 15, 2012)

I've had no problems spraying latex primer through my Earlex 5000 using the 1.5 needle. I usually thin whatever finish to the thin side of the viscosity range. You can thin latex with water or the special thinner they sell. I use the thinner.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

For Latex it's best to thin it 5- 10% and use a 1.8 or 2.0 needle.


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

OK, so treat it like normal paint. Got it. Unfortunately my sprayer only came with a 2 mm needle. Anyone know of a store that carries the 1.5 mm?


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

Ok, did I just purchase an end of life unit? No one seems to have this in stock!!!


----------



## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Be patient, Earlextech will be here to help with both your questions…...in the meantime do a little testing with the needle set you have, it may work fine. That said, I'm not a proponent of latex through an HVLP.


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

The only stores that stock the needles are Woodcraft. Otherwise call the customer service number and we'll send it to you. 888-944-4857

The only thinner for latex is water, flow agents are not thinners, Jesse we've been over this. Fill the viscosity cup with water, dump that into the gun cup. Then add 1/2 viscosity cup full of flow agent. Then fill with paint. Stir using a mixer on a drill for 2 minutes. Using the 1.5mm needle will give you the right atomization for woodwork. Spray from about 6" away.


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

I just checked their website and they don't carry it. I found it at sears for a reasonable price, so problem solved… thank s Earlextech for getting back to me. I will follow your instructions. What does adding a water based poly do for the paint if I go that route? Is it just gonna help with the sheen or will it provide a more durable finish?


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

Ok, got everything thinned out per Earlextech's reccomendations. Nothing but orange peel…I turned the flow down as far as possible and the droplets never fully atomized. I even added another cup (viscosity cup) of water and another half cup of floetrol and no dice. I'll play around more with some of the mixtures but I'm pretty discouraged at this point. For anyone who's curious I'm using SW wall and wood latex primer. I've read on other forums about some folks using windshield washer fluid as a thinner having good results. I really don't want to deal with oil paint as I am using white and can't deal with the yellowing over time.

Thanks for any advice!


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Hawk Guy - I just read the MSDS for that primer. You have two problems. The first is that you are required to spray a 4 mil thickness in order for it to flow out properly. The second is that you can't possibly spray 4 mils on a vertical surface, this is why I always suggest laying the project down to spray. That way you can get a thicker coat which then gives it time to flow out and not dry in orange peel.

It's always important to know and understand the finish you are using. Just spraying out some material is not going to make it a perfect finish. The MSDS sheet has a tremendous amount of information. It probably even says on the can itself that you must spray a 4 mil wet thickness in order to get a 1.89 mil dry film. 4 mils will feel like a puddle, which is why you can't spray that amount vertically, because you are afraid it will run, which of course, it will.

To figure out the mil thickness you have sprayed you can get a business card size measuring device from SW.

Personally, I would be priming with Zinsser Seal Coat shellac. Sprays great, more filling!


----------



## Hawk_Guy (Nov 21, 2013)

Ok, so the 4 mils applies to the amount of paint required on the substrate in order for the paint to level properly? I ended up spraying the mixture and hand sanding everything. Sanding wasn't terrible due to the very thin nature of the coating. I whipped up a new batch last night and went with about 6/10 of a quart, 1 cup floetrol, 1 cup water and it had a viscosity of about 119 seconds. This atomized very well but required a few coats. In the end I was hoping to avoid sanding the primer all together but I'm not sure that's possible if you care about the finish of the topcoat. It was great practicing with the primer and getting a good feel for the gun and the various patterns and flow control. I just hope the pro classic enamel goes on really nice. The plan is to go slow and thin. Wish me luck! Thanks for the great advice Earlextech…


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Yes, SW suggests that by spraying 4 mils of wet thickness it should dry to 1.8 mils.

Sanding is always required after the first seal coat.


----------



## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Earlex is right on,.,.That stuff is like spraying sheet rock mud, its too thick for anything less that an airless .

I use the BIN shellac based primer by Zinnzer,,,, best I have ever found,,, also their water base primer is pretty decent as well .


----------

