# Need some advice about Spar



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Ok you pro finishers. I have two cans of Spar. I plan to only spar this chair, no stain. It's Western Red Cedar. Which would be the better choice and why?


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I've always had good luck with Cabot products.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

They both have UV protection. I have been using the smaller can. I just might try the cabot, I bough it to coat some plywood that I plan to use as a shed floor, that is when I have time to put the shed together, lol.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Just do a test piece with both and see what you think.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Jim. I have a sprayer that I got at HF. I am thinking about using it to finish this chair. This is my cedar demonstrator that will go in a Flea Market here in town for folks to look at if they wish before they buy. Keeps strangers away from my home.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

They both look good, I'm mainly concerned about durability and longevity.


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## MichaelR (Oct 1, 2011)

I rebuilt two oak benches, one last year and one about a month ago. My thoughts on the Cabot are:
1. If it's 80 degrees and 60% humidity, wait AT LEAST 24 hours before recoat. It stays tacky that long.
2. If you plan to make the piece for outdoors full time, put on AT LEAST six coats.
3. Don't sand between coats without waiting 24 hours and only after three coats are already on.

I've got to strip and recoat last year's bench (four coats). 50% of the finish has peeled. I don't plan to use it again.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Russ 
If you have not sprayed before I would practice on some card board first and experiment with the adjustments to see how they work. When you do spray the chair go with very light coats and make sure all of the sawdust is off the chair(using a tack rag) and the area around it. As far as when to sand between coats read the instructions on the can and spray a test piece to test when your ready to sand. Be careful where you leave it when it's drying so dust does not land on it. I have a couple HF guns and they do a good job. I have used a lot of Cabot products and have found them to hold up very well.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

I posted a while back about using untinted oil-based clear base coat vs. spar varnish. In weather spar varnish will start to peel and flake in a year. The untinted base is supposed to have more uv inhibitors and people have had better luck with it. I applied it to a customers door and it looks stunning. If longevity is your concern, go to a real paint store (not HD or Lowes) and ask for a quart of oil-based deep base tint with nothing in it.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

You could always just use Minwax Helmsman Spar Polyurethane. Either Flat or satin. I'm partial to the satin finish myself.


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

Note: Neither of the products you displayed are true Spar Varnish.
Don't be confused by the name "Spar". It's a part of a boat, not the name of a product.

For a real Spar Varnish, made from Tung Oil, Phenolic Resins and UV Inhibitors that is reasonably priced, consider

Ace Spar Varnish.

Avoid the so-called "Spar Polyurethane" products. They tend to peel and are hard to reapply without first stripping off the old finish. Real Spar Varnishes will powder with time and exposure to the sun and weather. They can generally be reapplied by simply scuff sanding the old finish and applying a fresh coat.

Blessings,
Bro. Tenzin


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## Dusty123 (May 16, 2012)

Ether one will work. Check to make sure they UV protection. The most important thing to do is to put as many coats on the bottom of the chair as you do the top. You want to encase the wood in finish. If you don't as most people do not know to do, the unfinished wood will wick the moisture to the bottom of the finish and make it peal off. The easy way to take care of that is to completely finish all sides of the project. Make sure that the finish is completely dry before putting another coat on. A light sanding between coats especially on the last two will help in the adhesion of the finish.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

I don't think you are going to be happy with either one on red cedar outdoors. Red cedar is an oily wood which is why it has such high rot resistance. However for the same reason it doesn't like paints and varnishes much. I've had good results pre-sealing with a penetrating epoxy sealer but for my money I'd just skip the pain and use Cetol the first time.

Just sayin…


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