# Arts and Crafts 6 Drawer Dresser



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Legs and Side Panel Glueups*

I started the dresser like I start most of my projects, by laminating up some legs. I am making two dressers, so 8 legs were in order. 









I cut strips of 3/4" quartersawn red oak, and resawed a few of them. I could then glue 3 pieces together to get my leg width. Finally, I glued on 1/4" thick stock to cover my jointlines. After the glue dries, I plane the thickness of these veneers to about 3/32". That way, I get quartersawn grain on all 4 sides. 









I then milled stopped grooves in the legs. This will accept the frame and panels that make up the side of the dresser.

The grooves are 1/4" x 3/4" deep, and stop 2" from the bottom of the leg. 









Then I started gluing up some panels for the sides of the dresser. 









I milled up some rails with a dado blade. 









Dry fitting the rails helps me see that I like the overall look of the side panels.









A 1/2" thick panel is resting behind the frame as a mock-up. 









The front lower rail features a gentle arch. I like the overall look of the classic Harvey Ellis 9 drawer dresser, but the details were not right for me. So I designed this version with a lower stance, and more subtle arch.









The lower front rail attaches to the legs with through tenons. I am always impressed how much strength a few through tenons add to a project. 









Next up will be smoothing the 1/2" side panels, rabbeting the legs for a rear panel, and cutting peg mortises.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Legs and Side Panel Glueups*
> 
> I started the dresser like I start most of my projects, by laminating up some legs. I am making two dressers, so 8 legs were in order.
> 
> ...


Very good blog Willie


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## jumbojack (Mar 20, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Legs and Side Panel Glueups*
> 
> I started the dresser like I start most of my projects, by laminating up some legs. I am making two dressers, so 8 legs were in order.
> 
> ...


Love it Willie. Please, Please, Please continue the blog on this dresser. I live for blogs like this.


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## Kyle82 (Mar 1, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Legs and Side Panel Glueups*
> 
> I started the dresser like I start most of my projects, by laminating up some legs. I am making two dressers, so 8 legs were in order.
> 
> ...


Lookin good, Willie. I'll be following this one for sure. I bet you'll be done with yours before I'm done with mine.


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## Philfranklin (Oct 20, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Legs and Side Panel Glueups*
> 
> I started the dresser like I start most of my projects, by laminating up some legs. I am making two dressers, so 8 legs were in order.
> 
> ...


This is pretty amazing…. that's the next piece I want to build!

Having built all my stickley spindle chairs, and now the keyhole strestle table is half done….. got my eye on the bedroom. Thanks for blazing the trail for us!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Rabbets and Mortises*

Here is the plan for the 6 drawer dresser.








Rabbeting the back legs for the rear plywood panels. I chose plywood over solid wood for some dimensional stability. 








The rabbets are stopped 1-1/2" from the bottom of the legs to match the location of the side rails.








Mortising for pegs at the side rail locations.








Mortising for pegs at the front rail location.








Legs complete.








Panels were glued up in two stages - first two pairs of 3/4" boards were joined. Then those 10" wide panels were planed to 1/2" while they would still fit in the planner. Finally, the two 10" panels were joined with a single joint down the middle.
















Planing some stock for the webbing / drawer supports. 








Still a lot of lumber to go through! I figure I will get a whole bedroom set from this stock. 








Next up is cutting the arches on the bottom side rails, sanding parts for the side assemblies, staining the side panels, and side assembly glueup.


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## dub560 (Jun 4, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Rabbets and Mortises*
> 
> Here is the plan for the 6 drawer dresser.
> 
> ...


so much work brethen..looking good though


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Rabbets and Mortises*
> 
> Here is the plan for the 6 drawer dresser.
> 
> ...


Casegoods are a lot of work, especially when making solid wood panels. It can be a rewarding process though.


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## Kyle82 (Mar 1, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Rabbets and Mortises*
> 
> Here is the plan for the 6 drawer dresser.
> 
> ...


It's coming along. Keep taking those pictures. It's lookin good.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Scraping, Sanding, and Staining Panels*

I spent some time card scraping and sanding the 1/2" thick panels for the dresser sides. 








I sharpened a fresh burr on the card scraper so it was cutting quickly. I use it on trouble spots, like tearout from the planer. 








I setup the tablesaw with a dado set and a sacrificial fence to cut the rabbets on the panels. They are rabbeted on the inside edge, which will produce a flat panel look on the outside of the dresser. I could have used plywood, but it can be tough to find quartersawn red oak plywood locally. 








I stained the side panels before assembly. That way, any seasonal movement won't expose an unstained area of the panel. 








All four side panels are stained up.
















I use Rodda #19 oil based stain. It is really amazing stuff. The color is a medium warm brown that is fitting for A&C style furniture. Better still - it hides sapwood very well, and really helps to blend several boards into one panel. I have tried nearly every stain out there - Old Masters, Varathane, Minwax - you name it, and by far I like Rodda the best. It's really easy to work with. I thin it 4oz mineral spirits per 20 oz stain.

Next up should be sanding legs and side rails. Then I can glueup the side panel assemblies.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Scraping, Sanding, and Staining Panels*
> 
> I spent some time card scraping and sanding the 1/2" thick panels for the dresser sides.
> 
> ...


Looking good Willie.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Scraping, Sanding, and Staining Panels*
> 
> I spent some time card scraping and sanding the 1/2" thick panels for the dresser sides.
> 
> ...


Thanks Jim. Sometimes you can work in the shop for a day, and not show much progress. It is fun work though.


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## sb194 (Feb 19, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Scraping, Sanding, and Staining Panels*
> 
> I spent some time card scraping and sanding the 1/2" thick panels for the dresser sides.
> 
> ...


Looks great. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Sean


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Template Routing and Frame & Panel Glueup*



















If I have more that 2 parts to shape, I will make a template out of mdf. I prefer a nice solid jig made from 3/4" mdf with toggle clamps, however since I only had 4 lower side rails to make I kept it simple. After rough cutting the curve at the bandsaw, I used a 1/4" thick template carpet-taped to my workpiece. A pattern bit mounted in the router table makes quick work of cutting the gentle curves. I try to rout "downhill" on curved pieces. In other words, I start at the center of the workpiece and move towards the end. This means one pass is a climb cut, however I am only removing 1/16" of material so it works fine.










Arches complete.









I set up my sanding station, and sanded all the parts for the side panel assemblies. My planer leaves a smooth finish, so I start with 120 grit, and finish with 150 grit. I have found that sanding with finer than 150 grit does not improve the finished product. 









Test fitting the frame and panel side assemblies.

















I labeled the solid wood panels as I cut them to size for the upper and lower sections. This way the grain pattern continues through the middle rail. 

















At this point I need to decide whether or not to pre-finish the components before assembly. I rarely pre-finish individual wood pieces, but it is often helpful to pre-finish certain sub-assemblies. Getting the spray gun between the drawer dividers can be a real challenge, so I am leaning toward pre-finishing on this project. 
Next up will be sizing the back panels from 1/2" plywood, and dry assembling the front lower rail. Then work can begin on the internal webbing.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Template Routing and Frame & Panel Glueup*
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Well done


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## RonInOhio (Jul 23, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Template Routing and Frame & Panel Glueup*
> 
> 
> 
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That wood is really nice. Love the contrast. The joinery looks excellent also.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Template Routing and Frame & Panel Glueup*
> 
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> 
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The contrast is not intentional. I just pre-stained the panels, and will stain the rest soon.


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## jeffbranch (Feb 20, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Template Routing and Frame & Panel Glueup*
> 
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> 
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Your project is coming along nicely. I am about to build a router table and was interested in your fence design. Do you use the track on the fence often?


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## sb194 (Feb 19, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Template Routing and Frame & Panel Glueup*
> 
> 
> 
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Looking great. As always, I can't wait to see the finished product.

Sean


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Template Routing and Frame & Panel Glueup*
> 
> 
> 
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Jeff,
The track in the fence is useful to mount safety bit covers, or featherboards. The funny thing is, they get in your way while pushing a workpiece across the bit. 
I usually feel safest using a jointer paddle in my leading hand, and a pushstick in my trailing hand. 
So no, I don't use the track very often. 
The split fence design on the other hand, I use all the time.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Glueup in the Front, Dados in the Back*

I cut the plywood backs to size, and checked the fit. Shiplap backs are nice when they are visible, however the strength of plywood is undeniable. 









The plywood back fits into a rabbet in the rear leg. 









The side panels feature floating panels. They are glued only at the center to allow some wood movement.









While gluing the side panels, I centered the wood panel for an even reveal on all sides. 









I cut 1/4" deep dados into the 1/2" plywood back. These dados will locate the webbing frames between drawers. All of the dado locations are referenced off the top edge for consistency. 









Test fitting the back panels. There is a rabbet at the top, and the rest are dados. 









With the dry fit looking good, I went ahead and glued up the lower front arch on both dressers. I dry clamped the rear panel in place to keep the carcase square. 









Progress was interupted while I made a frame for my wife, but that was a nice distraction…










Next up will be building the webbing supports. 
Cheers!


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## sb194 (Feb 19, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Glueup in the Front, Dados in the Back*
> 
> I cut the plywood backs to size, and checked the fit. Shiplap backs are nice when they are visible, however the strength of plywood is undeniable.
> 
> ...


Looking great Willie.

Sean


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Glueup in the Front, Dados in the Back*
> 
> I cut the plywood backs to size, and checked the fit. Shiplap backs are nice when they are visible, however the strength of plywood is undeniable.
> 
> ...


Very sweet, Willie!


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## Kyle82 (Mar 1, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Glueup in the Front, Dados in the Back*
> 
> I cut the plywood backs to size, and checked the fit. Shiplap backs are nice when they are visible, however the strength of plywood is undeniable.
> 
> ...


These are looking really awesome.


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## hickeymad (Feb 27, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Glueup in the Front, Dados in the Back*
> 
> I cut the plywood backs to size, and checked the fit. Shiplap backs are nice when they are visible, however the strength of plywood is undeniable.
> 
> ...


I'm interested to see how you put in your web frames. I notice your sides are not flush to the leg faces on the interior. Now that you've glued up the assembly, and there are no dados on the sides? What are you planning? I assume the web frames will be notched around the legs?

By the way- we are in Portland and are planning a move. I want out of the city but my wife works at Providence here. I've been trying to sell her on Camus- dreams of 5 acres, a horse for my girls, good schools, a big garden and. Of course a dream shop float around my head- how do you like Camus?


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Glueup in the Front, Dados in the Back*
> 
> I cut the plywood backs to size, and checked the fit. Shiplap backs are nice when they are visible, however the strength of plywood is undeniable.
> 
> ...


Hickeymad,
The web frames will be notched around the legs. I am using a dado blade for nice crisp corners on the notches. An alternative to notching is filler strips glued between the web frame and the side rail. 
Instead of attaching the web frames with traditional sliding dovetails, mine are attached with pocket screws from the underside. All web frames are supported in the back by the dados. In addition, the three web frames that intersect the side rails will have pocket screws on the sides as well. 
The components of the web frame are assembled with biscuits.

Camas is a great town. It offers excellent schools, lots of small town festivals and events, and the people are friendly. Still close to Portland / Vancouver, Mt. Hood, and the Coast while offering a little more elbow room than most Portland neighborhoods.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Web Frames*

It is now time to build the web frames that function as drawer dividers. 









The web frames are notched around the legs, and I decided to cut the notches with a dado blade. Here is my setup at the tablesaw with sacrificial fences on both the tablesaw and miter gauge. 









The result was nice crisp corners on the notches. This will be a visible joint at the front of the dresser. A bandsaw could also accomplish the task, but not quite as easily as a dado blade. 









After cutting pieces to final length, web frames were assembled with biscuits. I really like biscuits for alignment and extra strength. I have found that the Dewalt brand biscuits fit the slot more precisely than other brands (like Porter Cable). I had to remove one biscuit with pliers during assembly. Once glue hits the biscuit, it really tightens things up.









Web frame glueup requires only two clamps. That's a good thing considering I have 12 web frames to make. 









I am careful to check each assembly with a straightedge. 









Frames and more frames.


















Test fitting a web frame.









The frames fit around the front leg like this…









The frames fit around the back legs like this…









Now it is time to assemble the frames in the carcase. I start with the bottom frame, because it is attached to the lower front arched rail with biscuits, and as such is a little trickier to install. An 8" wide plywood spacer helps me set the frame locations accurately. 


















The back of the frames are captured in dados. 









Frames installed.


















The front of the frames are attached to the legs with pocket screws from the underside. 









The dividers are set back from the legs by 3/16". This is where carefully cutting the notches pays off. 









Next up will be a solid wood top.


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## Kyle82 (Mar 1, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Web Frames*
> 
> It is now time to build the web frames that function as drawer dividers.
> 
> ...


Solid. You're going to be done in no time.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Clamshell Biscuits, And Building a Flat Top Panel*

Here is the plan from my design. It incorporates some Stickley design elements. 








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The dresser carcases are assembled, including the small divider that separates the top two drawers.








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The small dividers are attached with biscuits. To cut the slots, I opened the top two web frames like a clamshell. The web frames were aligned, and clamped together. Then I added an Emerson straightedge clamp, positioned to center the small divider on the web frame. 








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The ruler on the Emerson clamp helps center the biscuit slot on the web frame members. Dust collection is excellent with a shop vacuum. 








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#20 biscuit slots cut, and ready for assembly. This is a great way to register the position of the divider, and makes assembly a snap. 








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Small dividers installed.








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Through tenons on the lower front rail.








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Now I turn my attention to the tops. I label my workpieces with I's and O's. The "I" surfaces face inward toward the jointer fence. The "O" surfaces face outward, away from the jointer fence. This way any milling errors will be compensated for. It is worth the extra time to achieve a flat panel. 








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Here the edges are freshly jointed. 








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I need to glue 4 boards together to create the top panels. I like to break the glueup into two distinct phases. First I glue two pairs of boards together. I pay particular attention to the grain direction on the two pairs of boards. I want the grain oriented in the same direction so I don't have any tearout once the sub-assemblies are run through the planer. Notice the two beads of glue. The middle joint is dry at this point. After checking the panel for flatness, I let the panel dry for a couple hours. 








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I ran the two planks from the first glueup through the planer for uniform thickness. Next I glue the two planks together. Notice the single bead of glue.








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The stock has some pretty good figure for being red oak. I usually prefer white oak, however glueups with QSRO are great because the jointline seems to dissapear. 








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Here is a mock-up of the top, which still needs to be trimmed to size. 









Next up will be trimming tops to size, building angled backsplash detail, and installing filler strips for drawer slides.


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Clamshell Biscuits, And Building a Flat Top Panel*
> 
> Here is the plan from my design. It incorporates some Stickley design elements.
> 
> ...


What stain and finish do you use to make the rays stand out. I have been trying different things and 
just have not found what I am looking for.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Clamshell Biscuits, And Building a Flat Top Panel*
> 
> Here is the plan from my design. It incorporates some Stickley design elements.
> 
> ...


I don't actually try to accentuate the ray flecks. I like it when the light hits a piece of furniture just right, and all the figure starts to show. 
My finish is Rodda oil based stain, with two coats of satin pre-cat lacquer.
Some folks that really want to exagerate the look of the figure use dye, shellac, then lacquer or similar topcoat.
If you really like the figured look, the key is to start with white oak. The ray flecks in white oak tend to show through the finish more clearly.


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Clamshell Biscuits, And Building a Flat Top Panel*
> 
> Here is the plan from my design. It incorporates some Stickley design elements.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Backsplash Inlay and Trimming Top*

With the top built, it was time to turn my attention to the backsplash inlay and wedge detail. 








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I cut a double sided taper on the backsplash piece using a tapering jig at the tablesaw. 








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I saved my offcuts to make wedge shapes. The wedges were glued back onto the backsplash. I was careful to place the wedge in its original position so the grain would align. 








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The backsplash is carpet taped to a strip of MDF. This creates a straight reference point to cut shallow dados for my inlay. Alternately, I could have cut the dados before tapering the top. However, this would have required several freehand cuts at the bandsaw to notch out around the wedge. I decided it would be much easier and more accurate to just glue the wedge back on after cutting the tapers. 








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With the dados cut, I mill up some walnut for the inlay. The inlay stands proud of the backsplash by 1/8". The pieces are individually mitered to fit at the miter saw. 








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Inlay dry-fitting. The design looks like wedges are driven in, tightening leather straps to affix the backsplash. 








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Inlay glueup.








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Inlay complete, with tops trimmed to final size and sanded. 








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Next up will be the drawers.


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## sb194 (Feb 19, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Backsplash Inlay and Trimming Top*
> 
> With the top built, it was time to turn my attention to the backsplash inlay and wedge detail.
> 
> ...


Looks great. I really like the wedge and strap design.

Sean


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## Dovetail_Tendonitise (Jan 1, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Backsplash Inlay and Trimming Top*
> 
> With the top built, it was time to turn my attention to the backsplash inlay and wedge detail.
> 
> ...


Wow!! i think we studied the same classes or the books, lol. 
I never had a drawing, just started with a story stick and went from there. Your build and details are a great talent indeed !! I promise to not copy your builds here, but it is very close to my thoughts for the dresser and even the hardware! even my TV cabinet has a similar crest from the top cut off. 
Really a great job !!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Dovetail Drawers , Spraying Shellac*

Here is my setup for cutting half blind dovetails. I use a larger-than-stock 14 degree dovetail bit. I think it makes nicer looking dovetail joints, and they feel much stronger. Here is a link to my blog about the special bit… http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40073








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This is the bit I use, which is a Rockler item. You can still cut these dovetails in one pass with the PC jig. 








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I trimmed some aromatic cedar plywood to size and test fit the drawers.








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Grooves were cut for the drawer bottoms in two passes at the table saw.








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Test fitting the drawers, minus the applied fronts. 








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I pre-stained the front of the drawer box before assembly.








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A bead of glue in the sockets only, and spread with an acid brush. Drawer parts must be on one inch intervals plus 1/4" for proper spacing with this jig ( ie: 3-1/4", 4-1/4", 5-1/4" etc.)








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Clamping drawers with cauls at the corners.








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Here is my setup for spraying shellac to finish the drawer boxes. I prefer shellac over lacquer for the boxes because of the odor. The drawer bottoms are unfinished aromatic cedar.








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Here I am installing blocking to receive the drawer slides. I am careful to glue the blocking only to the front legs. I avoid any glue on the floating side panels. 









Next up will be prepping the drawer fronts, which I already have planed and cut to size. Then applying a finish and drawer installation.


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## Kyle82 (Mar 1, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Dovetail Drawers , Spraying Shellac*
> 
> Here is my setup for cutting half blind dovetails. I use a larger-than-stock 14 degree dovetail bit. I think it makes nicer looking dovetail joints, and they feel much stronger. Here is a link to my blog about the special bit… http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40073
> 
> ...


Wow, that looks way better than the bit that comes with the pc jig. I just now saw your blog about using that bit instead. These are looking awesome, Willie.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Dovetail Drawers , Spraying Shellac*
> 
> Here is my setup for cutting half blind dovetails. I use a larger-than-stock 14 degree dovetail bit. I think it makes nicer looking dovetail joints, and they feel much stronger. Here is a link to my blog about the special bit… http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40073
> 
> ...


Thanks Kyle.
If you ever want a different look for dovetails, that 14 degree bit is worth a try.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Stain, Lacquer, and Fitting Inset Drawers*

With a stack of drawers ready to go, I turn my attention to applying the finish to the carcase.








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Oil based stain was applied to the carcases and drawer fronts. I sprayed the carcases, and wiped stain on the drawer fronts. 

















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Then I sprayed two coats of lacquer, scuff sanding between coats. 








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Next I install the Centerline full extension drawer slides. Having web frames is convienent, and I simply set the slides down on the web frames. 








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I use a jig to align the slides. The jig is made from scraps of the drawer fronts, and is notched to allow the slide to open. There are a few layers of tape on the jig to set the slide back just a bit. Once the jig is aligned with the front of drawer divider, I know the drawer will fit correctly. The jig works for both sides of the dresser. To screw the slides to the carcase I use the horizontal slots. 








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Once the slides are attached to the carcase, I lay two strips of 1/2" plywood down to help align the drawers. 








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With the drawer resting on the plywood strips, I drive a screw at the front of the slide. These screws go in the vertical slots.








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I slide the drawer out, and press down on the back of the drawer to register it against the plywood spacers. Then I can drive another screw, again in the vertical slot. This will allow me to adjust the drawer in its opening later. 








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I use another little jig to layout the holes to attach the drawer fronts. The jig is nothing more than a scrap with a pair of holes in it. The small drawer fronts are attached with 4 screws, while the large drawers get 6 screws. 








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I use 3/32" spacers to hold the drawer in position as it is screwed in. This is one reason to avoid plywood dust covers between drawers, as that limits access to the adjacent drawers. I plan on using a dust cover under the bottom drawer only. 








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Drawer front installed. 








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Checking the reveal around the drawer front. I can make adjustments to the position of the slide to correct any asymmetry. 








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Once the drawer fronts are installed and the reveal looks good, I go back and drive some screws in the non-slotted holes to fix their position permanantly.








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Next I mortise the top of the carcase for some figure 8 fasteners to attach the top. In this shot you can see the blocking that was required to receive the slides. I was careful to attach the blocking to the rear legs only - and not to the floating panel. This way I won't restrict seasonal movement of the side panel. 








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Top attached…


















Next up… attaching the bail pulls, waxing the finish, and installing a non-woven dust cover under the bottom drawer.


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, and Fitting Inset Drawers*
> 
> With a stack of drawers ready to go, I turn my attention to applying the finish to the carcase.
> 
> ...


Willie,

Great Tips on a very Handsome Chest.

Nice Fit and Finish. - Grandpa Len.

Work Safely and have Fun.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, and Fitting Inset Drawers*
> 
> With a stack of drawers ready to go, I turn my attention to applying the finish to the carcase.
> 
> ...


Quite a big project Willie, and all extremely well done. The design is very nice.


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## Tomoose (Mar 1, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, and Fitting Inset Drawers*
> 
> With a stack of drawers ready to go, I turn my attention to applying the finish to the carcase.
> 
> ...


This is a great series you have put together. I have a dresser project in my future and this series is going to help me with my project a lot. I have never built anything this big or complex, and your blog has shed light on many questions I have had in my mind. I look forward the the rest…

Thanks,
Tom


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, and Fitting Inset Drawers*
> 
> With a stack of drawers ready to go, I turn my attention to applying the finish to the carcase.
> 
> ...


Really cool build, Willie. Very impressive!


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## DLCW (Feb 18, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, and Fitting Inset Drawers*
> 
> With a stack of drawers ready to go, I turn my attention to applying the finish to the carcase.
> 
> ...


Beautiful dressers. I love classic A&C furniture.

I think the only thing I would have done different in this beauty would have been to use concealed drawer slides instead of side mount. My preference would have been to make sure no hardware was seen to detract from the beauty of the piece. Just my $.02.

Great job!!!!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, and Fitting Inset Drawers*
> 
> With a stack of drawers ready to go, I turn my attention to applying the finish to the carcase.
> 
> ...


I could have used Accuride 1029 centermounts, however that would have sacrificed the full extension function. BluMotions require you to lose 1-1/2" of drawer depth, which was unacceptable to me. Plus this is part of a 6 piece bedroom set, and the Blumotion slides would have cost $1,250 (just the slides, not including pulls).

I guess any hardware choice is a compromise. For these dressers I wanted dovetails, and full extension slides, and the Centerlines fit the bill. Besides, the black slides will match the drawer pull hardware.

Thanks


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## Jero (Mar 23, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, and Fitting Inset Drawers*
> 
> With a stack of drawers ready to go, I turn my attention to applying the finish to the carcase.
> 
> ...


They look amazing so far. The level or precision is outstanding! After looking at your drawers, I'm realizing further that I need to get a dovetail jig. They really look great.


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## BBrown626 (Jan 11, 2013)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, and Fitting Inset Drawers*
> 
> With a stack of drawers ready to go, I turn my attention to applying the finish to the carcase.
> 
> ...


Looks very nice. 
I am curious why you used any slides at all. The piece looks great and with the webs I was expecting you to throw in some wood kickers and keep it all wood. I like the feel of the wood, with maybe a pad on the blade to help it glide a bit. 
Great work.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, and Fitting Inset Drawers*
> 
> With a stack of drawers ready to go, I turn my attention to applying the finish to the carcase.
> 
> ...


I have built projects in the past with wooden slides. I also own furniture with wood-on-wood drawer boxes, and neither works very well. The expansion and contraction of solid wood invariably creates friction when opening the drawer. I don't want to wax slides or drawer parts every season. Ball bearing slides open and close smoothly and predictably, and are a pleasure to use. They are reasonably priced and widely available. In the black finish they are not too obtrusive. 
I know there are purists among us that love the old fashioned style, but I think if Stickley was making furniture today he would use slides.


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## BBrown626 (Jan 11, 2013)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, and Fitting Inset Drawers*
> 
> With a stack of drawers ready to go, I turn my attention to applying the finish to the carcase.
> 
> ...


I normally make cabinets and very few furniture items. I am not such a purist, but I guess I haven't found a slide with the feel I like.

thanks for sharing your project.


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, and Fitting Inset Drawers*
> 
> With a stack of drawers ready to go, I turn my attention to applying the finish to the carcase.
> 
> ...


I look at everything with $$$ signs in my eyes

sad but true

somebody won


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, and Fitting Inset Drawers*
> 
> With a stack of drawers ready to go, I turn my attention to applying the finish to the carcase.
> 
> ...


Wow - nice write up and beautiful craftsmanship.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Waxing Dressers and adding Drawer Pulls*

I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool - and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag. 








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For drawer pull layout I used Scott Collins no-math layout method. My drawer pulls have 2 bolts, 3" on center. 








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I made a full-height jig to drill the holes for the machine bolts. It features 2" strips of plywood on two adjacent corners. This way I can quickly reference the outside edge of the drawer. 








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The jig is reversible, allowing me to drill both sides of the drawers. 
I also made a full-height jig for the 6" top drawers. 








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Since both jigs reference off the outside edge of the drawer, the pulls align vertically. 








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Hammered bail pulls feature a subtle arch at the top.








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Project complete!


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## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Waxing Dressers and adding Drawer Pulls*
> 
> I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool - and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag.
> 
> ...


The drilling jig is a great idea.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Waxing Dressers and adding Drawer Pulls*
> 
> I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool - and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag.
> 
> ...


Thanks Brian,
It worked very well, and made installing 20 pulls a snap.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Waxing Dressers and adding Drawer Pulls*
> 
> I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool - and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag.
> 
> ...


That is a very good looking dresser!

Beautiful job.

Lee


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## Kyle82 (Mar 1, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Waxing Dressers and adding Drawer Pulls*
> 
> I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool - and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag.
> 
> ...


Oh man, Willie… That looks awesome. Great job. I bet it smells nice.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Waxing Dressers and adding Drawer Pulls*
> 
> I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool - and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys.
Kyle,
It smells of both aromatic cedar, with a hint of citrus from the Howards wax. I really like both. 
Makes me hungry for salmon.


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## sb194 (Feb 19, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Waxing Dressers and adding Drawer Pulls*
> 
> I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool - and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag.
> 
> ...


They look fantastic. I would love to have the matching pair in our house.

Sean


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Waxing Dressers and adding Drawer Pulls*
> 
> I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool - and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag.
> 
> ...


Great little jig! Nice work!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Waxing Dressers and adding Drawer Pulls*
> 
> I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool - and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag.
> 
> ...


Here is a link to the posted project page…
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79208


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