# Tips and Jigs for the Shop



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

*Introduction - Purpose and Plan*

This last week I realized that although I have not been a woodworking hobbyist per se, I have been working some in the shop since the 70's. Over the years I have encountered a few things that are simple and inexpensive that might be useful to others.

I am enjoying the help, suggestions, and comments of Lumberjocks with vast experience and skills that I will never be able to attain. This is one way of trying help others in a systematic fashion. I would like to do even more, but since I am still working, and have a shop to rehabilitate, this will probably be about right for my time and energy. If I get this started now, as I come upon items of general usefulness, it will be easy to document them in a preorganized place.

I will add the first entry later today, that I have documented in my blog. I will try to be very explict, use pictures and drawings where appropriate, and assume that the reader has little or no experience….you know…like me.


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## pommy (Apr 17, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Introduction - Purpose and Plan*
> 
> This last week I realized that although I have not been a woodworking hobbyist per se, I have been working some in the shop since the 70's. Over the years I have encountered a few things that are simple and inexpensive that might be useful to others.
> 
> ...


Jim i think its wonderful that you want to share your experience with us young woodworker thank you…


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Introduction - Purpose and Plan*
> 
> This last week I realized that although I have not been a woodworking hobbyist per se, I have been working some in the shop since the 70's. Over the years I have encountered a few things that are simple and inexpensive that might be useful to others.
> 
> ...


Are you posting here or in a blog, and do you want others to add information and technics?


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Introduction - Purpose and Plan*
> 
> This last week I realized that although I have not been a woodworking hobbyist per se, I have been working some in the shop since the 70's. Over the years I have encountered a few things that are simple and inexpensive that might be useful to others.
> 
> ...


Hey Jim
I still work but have been fortunate enough to aid at the local high school (when I have a free day) wood shop since oddly enough the shop teacher is new to woodworking and I teach adult woodworking for our local community collage once a week. It's a lot of fun and the students seem to get a lot out of it. So like every one just do what you can with neighbours or friends and you'll get 10 times more out of it than you put in. Just the desire wanting to help is great.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Introduction - Purpose and Plan*
> 
> This last week I realized that although I have not been a woodworking hobbyist per se, I have been working some in the shop since the 70's. Over the years I have encountered a few things that are simple and inexpensive that might be useful to others.
> 
> ...


Dan,

Dan and Pommy and Jim:

I am in a blog, but I'm not blogging in the usually sense. Critiques and additions would be appropriate in a blog, but let's face it, a more useful format for the user would be a section where everyone could put in tips, jigs, plans, and one could browse it or search it. I figure my abilities are in the bottom few percent of this forum, and there have got to be huge storehouse of information locked in the minds of some of the members

I couldn't find the right forum section, so I decided to start it in my blog. Actually, there might be some credibility in having a Tips and Jigs section in the Forums, but since I am so new, I did not feel it was appropriate to make such a suggestion. Maybe there is some place that would work that I missed. So I just thought I would start my own series in a blog.

I made the first entry at work when I had a few spare moments, now I am at home. I was going to edit my first entry, to discuss this some, but you beat me to it.

Oh, and by the way, there is a parallel course of thinking going on about making an annual CD of Lumberjock's projects, but that is a totally different type of project. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/10707#reply-110113

This blog series was brought to mind as I was making a pattern for a push block, that I copied from a picture I liked. But the pattern is line art, something you can cut out, done real life size, and trace around it and cut it out with your band/scroll saw. I couldn't find one I liked on the net, so I made my own. Thought, wouldn't it be nice if someone had already done this and put it in a pdf or some such? So, I wanted to make it available for others. That's where this started in my brain. That, and the method of keeping my RAS fence registered accurately so that I can measure off the ruler on the fence for crosscuts. Simple stuff, but time saving and useful for others. And I just wanted a space I could drop things I encountered that I couldn't find elsewhere.

So what do you think? Should we talk to Martin about another forum. Should we put stuff in one the the current forums. Or should I just do my stuff in my blog? Or should others join me?


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Introduction - Purpose and Plan*
> 
> This last week I realized that although I have not been a woodworking hobbyist per se, I have been working some in the shop since the 70's. Over the years I have encountered a few things that are simple and inexpensive that might be useful to others.
> 
> ...


Hey Jim
I'm a little confused if your suggesting that there should be a forum just for tips and Jigs or one for patterns.
I'm sorry I don't get your concept. I guess if others want a forum just for tips and jigs and Martin wants to do it it would be fine. We can get to the same info by going to shortcuts then projects and then jigs on the LJs toolbar.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Introduction - Purpose and Plan*
> 
> This last week I realized that although I have not been a woodworking hobbyist per se, I have been working some in the shop since the 70's. Over the years I have encountered a few things that are simple and inexpensive that might be useful to others.
> 
> ...


Well, I was just wondering what people wanted to do. I think I will just proceed to do what I started out to do, which was to write my own separate blog series of my own hints, tips, jigs, patterns, etc, rather than calling them projects, which they really won't be.

So, I guess my answer to Dan will be, he should put his own jigs, hints, etc in his own blog, projects, forums, etc. That is what my orignal concept was. And let search find them, as you suggested.

Thanks for the input


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

*Fence ruler with stop block and position indicator.*

For many years I have used a ruler on my radial arm saw (RAS) fence, and instead of measuring for crosscuts, I just place a stop block at the proper point on the ruler. This is a second generation solution, to remedy minor issues with effective fence height with my first one. I find that my placement of block is accurate to less than 1/64 of an inch, a few thousands of an inch measured with a digital caliper, in routine use.

First I will show you the fence in place on my saw, because then everything else I say will be more understandable.

View 1 - The fence, and the stop block with a Vise-grip clamp (simple, inexpensive, works great)










View 2 - The stop block up close. To position it, you sight along the acrylic piece that is colored with a Sharpie on the edge, creating a very fine line. Because the stop is exactly 10" long, to set it for 0.5 inch, you can read 10.5" on the back side which is easier.










View 3 - The label that has been placed after the fence position has been tested for accuracy. See below. Note the vise grip clap that is used to clamp the stop block sitting on the shelf.










There are three considerations:

1. Indicator for fence position so that you know the fence position is right for the current blade, and has not moved.
2. Placement of the ruler and cursor so that it does not decrease effective fence height and is readable.
3. Setting of the block for short distances where visualizing the ruler is compromised by the saw motor and such.

Solutions:

1.An adhesive label with vertical lines, that is thin enough to not influence the position of the workpiece. If the fence is out of alignment, it is obvious at a glance. I always give a quick look before cutting a piece.

First verify the the fence is properly placed. I adjust the fence and then cut a piece of scrap placed against the stop block and measure it with a caliper. I use a digital one made by Wixey. Then adjust and cut until it is perfect.

Then place the label against the fence so that half of the label will be on the table. Knock it into position with a block of wood. Then cut it with a box cutter or other, right at the junction between the fence and the table. Mark it, if you wish, with the blade model in use. You can use other labels for different blades.

2. I used a ruler that was placed in an indent on the face of the fence originally. This reduced its effective height. This time I placed it on top of the fence, and used a piece of acrylic for the cursor. Much better.

3. Make your stop block exactly 10 inches long. Then you can sight off the back of the block, i.e. 10.5 inches = 0.5 inches on the front of the block.

I made the label myself with a Brother label maker. But, any label with lines you can orient vertically will do. Even a piece of lined paper glued in place.

Comment:

This is one of the best time saving things I have done in the shop. It also improve my measurement accuracy.
It may be applicable to any tool that uses a movable fence.

If anyone is interested and has questions about how to cut the block and acrylic, etc., let me know.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Fence ruler with stop block and position indicator.*
> 
> For many years I have used a ruler on my radial arm saw (RAS) fence, and instead of measuring for crosscuts, I just place a stop block at the proper point on the ruler. This is a second generation solution, to remedy minor issues with effective fence height with my first one. I find that my placement of block is accurate to less than 1/64 of an inch, a few thousands of an inch measured with a digital caliper, in routine use.
> 
> ...


Very practical for quick, easy and precise cutting. I'll have to think about something like that for my miter saw. Thanks Jim for sharing this well thought out idea with us.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Fence ruler with stop block and position indicator.*
> 
> For many years I have used a ruler on my radial arm saw (RAS) fence, and instead of measuring for crosscuts, I just place a stop block at the proper point on the ruler. This is a second generation solution, to remedy minor issues with effective fence height with my first one. I find that my placement of block is accurate to less than 1/64 of an inch, a few thousands of an inch measured with a digital caliper, in routine use.
> 
> ...


Stop blocks and fences are always our friend… Okay almost always.

I will need to set something like that up for my CMS.


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## MarktheWoodButcher (May 14, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Fence ruler with stop block and position indicator.*
> 
> For many years I have used a ruler on my radial arm saw (RAS) fence, and instead of measuring for crosscuts, I just place a stop block at the proper point on the ruler. This is a second generation solution, to remedy minor issues with effective fence height with my first one. I find that my placement of block is accurate to less than 1/64 of an inch, a few thousands of an inch measured with a digital caliper, in routine use.
> 
> ...


Some of my saw blades have a different tooth offset. Probably less than a 64th. But I still try to get the cut dead nuts centered. I just feel "wrong" if I haven't pulled out a ruler and measured from the edge of a tooth. I probably need psycho therapy.

Mark


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Fence ruler with stop block and position indicator.*
> 
> For many years I have used a ruler on my radial arm saw (RAS) fence, and instead of measuring for crosscuts, I just place a stop block at the proper point on the ruler. This is a second generation solution, to remedy minor issues with effective fence height with my first one. I find that my placement of block is accurate to less than 1/64 of an inch, a few thousands of an inch measured with a digital caliper, in routine use.
> 
> ...


good idea


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Fence ruler with stop block and position indicator.*
> 
> For many years I have used a ruler on my radial arm saw (RAS) fence, and instead of measuring for crosscuts, I just place a stop block at the proper point on the ruler. This is a second generation solution, to remedy minor issues with effective fence height with my first one. I find that my placement of block is accurate to less than 1/64 of an inch, a few thousands of an inch measured with a digital caliper, in routine use.
> 
> ...


MarktheWoodButcher:

It is easy to set the fence for different saw blades by using a different label for each one, and marking the blade name on the label. The labels could certainly be smaller than I used, just a few lines. Then there is plenty of room for a few blades. I find that I keep one blade on there most of the time for crosscuts, so it isn't much of a deal to me.


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## Gary777 (Apr 15, 2011)

jbertelson said:


> *Fence ruler with stop block and position indicator.*
> 
> For many years I have used a ruler on my radial arm saw (RAS) fence, and instead of measuring for crosscuts, I just place a stop block at the proper point on the ruler. This is a second generation solution, to remedy minor issues with effective fence height with my first one. I find that my placement of block is accurate to less than 1/64 of an inch, a few thousands of an inch measured with a digital caliper, in routine use.
> 
> ...


Hi Jim,

I agree, this is a great set up, I hope you don't mind if I copy your design in my own shop!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Gary


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Fence ruler with stop block and position indicator.*
> 
> For many years I have used a ruler on my radial arm saw (RAS) fence, and instead of measuring for crosscuts, I just place a stop block at the proper point on the ruler. This is a second generation solution, to remedy minor issues with effective fence height with my first one. I find that my placement of block is accurate to less than 1/64 of an inch, a few thousands of an inch measured with a digital caliper, in routine use.
> 
> ...


Go for it Gary. This is one of the most useful things I ever made for the shop. For anything under 25 inches, I don't measure, I just set the stop block and cut.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Fence ruler with stop block and position indicator.*
> 
> For many years I have used a ruler on my radial arm saw (RAS) fence, and instead of measuring for crosscuts, I just place a stop block at the proper point on the ruler. This is a second generation solution, to remedy minor issues with effective fence height with my first one. I find that my placement of block is accurate to less than 1/64 of an inch, a few thousands of an inch measured with a digital caliper, in routine use.
> 
> ...


Oh, and Gary, be sure to check out Joe Lyddons Happy Thanksgiving message…....

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/32095


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

*Reclaiming old stuff.........guess what this was.......*

Well, after finishing my downdraft table (see my blog, Revamping and Updating My Old Shop), and making my dutiful post about it here, I started to clean up the shop. So moving stuff back where it belonged, the two-bit (pun intended) router table went up high on a shelf, moved off a generic rolling stand that I use for all kinds of stuff, and then I looked about for a place to put the downdraft table. (This shop desparately needs wall space and, it will take cabinets and big time organization to accomplish that).

I looked at the stand the router just came off of….......and plunked the downdraft table on it…....and laughed. It fit perfectly. But the funny part of it is, I suddenly remembered where this stand came from. It has a handle on the left for rolling. It normally sits on all four legs, but if you lift up on that handle, then the casters, that are normally just barely off the ground become the lowest point, and off you roll. I had built a plywood top, and a shelf for what was a barebones iron stand. It is heavy sturdy, portable, was given to me, and except for the casters, was built from scrap. The stand that I started with is just the iron part.

I built this about 17 years ago….....

Here it is, this is an easy one…....the stand was given to me, I used it briefly, and I was going to throw it out before I had the inspiration and turned it into a utility cart….......

What is it. Easy.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Reclaiming old stuff.........guess what this was.......*
> 
> Well, after finishing my downdraft table (see my blog, Revamping and Updating My Old Shop), and making my dutiful post about it here, I started to clean up the shop. So moving stuff back where it belonged, the two-bit (pun intended) router table went up high on a shelf, moved off a generic rolling stand that I use for all kinds of stuff, and then I looked about for a place to put the downdraft table. (This shop desparately needs wall space and, it will take cabinets and big time organization to accomplish that).
> 
> ...


Got er done good job.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Reclaiming old stuff.........guess what this was.......*
> 
> Well, after finishing my downdraft table (see my blog, Revamping and Updating My Old Shop), and making my dutiful post about it here, I started to clean up the shop. So moving stuff back where it belonged, the two-bit (pun intended) router table went up high on a shelf, moved off a generic rolling stand that I use for all kinds of stuff, and then I looked about for a place to put the downdraft table. (This shop desparately needs wall space and, it will take cabinets and big time organization to accomplish that).
> 
> ...


Nice downdraft table and cart. I like your wheel solution.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Reclaiming old stuff.........guess what this was.......*
> 
> Well, after finishing my downdraft table (see my blog, Revamping and Updating My Old Shop), and making my dutiful post about it here, I started to clean up the shop. So moving stuff back where it belonged, the two-bit (pun intended) router table went up high on a shelf, moved off a generic rolling stand that I use for all kinds of stuff, and then I looked about for a place to put the downdraft table. (This shop desparately needs wall space and, it will take cabinets and big time organization to accomplish that).
> 
> ...


Oh, and by the way, the original cast iron stand was an *aquarium stand*. I got it when I lived in Fairbanks, a quirky hand me down from a brother-in-law, and I was cleaning up space, about to throw it out, and dreamed up this rolling shop stand instead. Alaskans don't throw out much, use duct tape to fix what looks unfixable, and make junk do the job. It is in the culture. This stand is extremely heavy for its size due to the iron work and heavy wood work. It makes a great router stand, small project table, and probably now a downdraft table stand. The caster system works perfectly….....

Thanks for the comments and reads.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

*Replacing the belt and pulleys on a Delta Contractors Saw*

I am documenting the following only because I noted posts on the net requesting info on how to get the arbor nut off the Delta Contractors Saw. I am sure there are other ways to do this, but this was simple and worked.

I am slowly upgrading my old Delta Contractors Saw. So I bought the In-Line machined pulleys and the Power Twist Plus 1/2" V-belt 4 foot package. In-Line could not supply the belt, so I bought it separately. It takes 3 & 1/2 feet (42") of belt.

I wondered if there was anything special I needed to know to replace the pulleys. So I googled around and found some people who didn't know how to get the pulley off the arbor end, but no answers. The problem with the arbor end pulley, that comes in two halves held in by a nut, is that the nut it is a right hand thread, and the saw blade end, of course, is a left hand thread. There are no flats on the shaft as on my RAS to get a hold of the shaft. So you can't hold the saw nut to get the pulley nut off, because the motion loosens it.

I put WD-40 on each pulley and let it soak in before trying removal.

The motor pulley has a hex screw that you have to loosen, then you can knock the pulley loose, and remove or keep knocking it until it is off. That pulley had a shaft key that the hex set screw bit into. I saved the key.

The arbor end presented two problems. 1) getting the nut off 2) knocking off the split pulley.

My solution for holding the shaft was to put an old blade, ready for the dump, on the saw. Then I grabbed the blade with a vise grip and let the saw table keep the vise grip from turning. Then tightened the nut down good. The vise-grip gave me a better puchase than the wood to loosen up that old nut. Then using the arbor wrench provided with the saw, I could easily remove the right threaded nut. I tilted the saw to get a better view of the arbor pulley and knocked it off using a hammer and piece of wood.

The halves had a built in key, but the new pulley did not come with one. Fortunately, about 30 years ago I had bought a miscellanous hardware collection, cheapo like, and it came with some shaft keys. And fortunately I had one that fit. So I put on the new machined arbor pulley, and used a key, since the pulley had a hex set screw. I did not put the nut back on, since I could not see not any use for it since the pulley was now firmly held with the hex set screw and key, just like the motor pulley. The nut was superfluous and just a pain to take off,

Similarly I put on the new pulley for the motor end.

I cleaned up any excess WD-40, and the shipping grease on the pulleys with acetone. Then I put the link belt together, and put it on saw. There were good instructions on the inside of the packaging for the belt, including how long to make it for my kind of saw, so I won't repeat that here. I checked the alignment of the pulleys with each other, and made sure the belt cleared the guard.

I rechecked the front to back alignment of the blade with the miter slot….......of course….....using my handy-dandy Wixey Digital Caliper mount….......got another use out of that wretched thing….. (-: There was no change in alignment from my hammering and messing around with the pulleys.

The saw is very free of significant vibration. A nickel stayed standing. Couldn't find a new dime, and the old I had wouldn't stand…......so I leaned it up against a nickel, and they both stayed standing from startup through shut down (does that pass the purist's dime test?). The saw sounds different, no rumble, just some whine…......that's all I need…... my saw has become a whiner. Next I need a zero clearance insert and a large sled. Then off to my computer cart utilitarian project.

I still have lodged in my brain an innovative saw guard and splitter solution, as well as an innovative dust collecting solution…......bet you can hardly wait…........................(-:


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## oldwoodman (Feb 4, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Replacing the belt and pulleys on a Delta Contractors Saw*
> 
> I am documenting the following only because I noted posts on the net requesting info on how to get the arbor nut off the Delta Contractors Saw. I am sure there are other ways to do this, but this was simple and worked.
> 
> ...


Jim,

Thanks for the very thorough post of how you worked on your saw. As I read the post, it seemed as if I was standing right there in your shop watching you upgrade your saw. I am glad to hear that your saw sounds as if it is in better shape for woodworking projects.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Replacing the belt and pulleys on a Delta Contractors Saw*
> 
> I am documenting the following only because I noted posts on the net requesting info on how to get the arbor nut off the Delta Contractors Saw. I am sure there are other ways to do this, but this was simple and worked.
> 
> ...


oldwoodman,

Thanks for your reply.

I try to write a narrative so that if I was the reader, it would say exactly what what I need to understand the subject. I try to give a blow-by-blow description of anything that is a little finicky, with detail to make it graphic, and interesting. Discoveries die when they stay with the observer, only after passing it on in usable way, and that requires considerable effort, does it become knowledge. Teaching is not easy…....never has been…...never will be…...............

Perhaps that is more dignity than justified for my ramblings, just trying to help…................

best regards to you and your wife…..........Jim

PS….. and perhaps the saw will do an even better job now…..........


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Replacing the belt and pulleys on a Delta Contractors Saw*
> 
> I am documenting the following only because I noted posts on the net requesting info on how to get the arbor nut off the Delta Contractors Saw. I am sure there are other ways to do this, but this was simple and worked.
> 
> ...


Great and thorough work description Jim. I'm sure it will be useful for many. As they say "the devil is in the details".


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

*Large Sled - Sketchup*

This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


looks good jim ,
put some removable swing protractor arms on it ,
and some stops ,
and you can do other cutting tasks as well .


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


Nice Jim,
I agree with patron, incorporate a t-slot on the main rail to mount a movable stop for repeat cuts, I did this and use it all the time.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


Thanks David and Tim. Guess I better find some T-slot. Is the only recourse to order that stuff? What are the outside dimensions of t-slot, or do they vary with the manufacturer? I haven't looked hard, but I assume Lowes and HD don't sell it. Alternatively, I could cut a groove and then cover the face with hard board with a smaller slot in it, saw that in my jigs and fixtures book.

With the size of this baby, I guess I might as well make it as versatile as possible. Have to do a little research on the protractor arms, but I have seen a few designs. I'm a digital freak, and just got my Wixey digital protractor from Rockler, along with some other measurement stuff. It would help set angles precisely.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


Looks good Jim
The t nuts and track are sold by Rockler and a number of other on line sites. I've never seen any in a box store.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


*Jim:*
Thanks for the info, I kinda suspected that. Guess I'll order it up with some spare track and nuts. Its the kind of thing I like to keep around.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


get some of those knobs while you are at it ,
that ride in the track ,
they are good for some other stuff too .


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


Jim, You can also buy a router bit to make your own T-slot; http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1572&filter=26099&ne_ppc_id=776&ne_key_id=3421663&gclid=CMTH35OOwJ4CFUlo5Qod_DyCog


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


Jim, this is the same size as the sled that I posted a little while ago. It is a handy tool to use in the shop but finding storage for it can be a challenge. If you haven't seen it yet you might want to take a look at John Nixon's video that shows the construction of his version of a miter and crosscut sled. In the video he also demonstrates how to make a t-track out of hardboard.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


... and mine!

But the miter piece is a great idea!

The SketchUp plan looks really good, *Jim*. The only mistake I made was in using Home Depot's 0.093" plex. I've since bought something (?) much thicker and will soon switch it out.

Mine hides behind a few other things, against the wall, but gets even more use than I expected.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


Looks good Jim. Luckily I don't need one, but if I did I would build Nixon's design with the mitering capability. I have this feature on my sliding table and I use it a lot.


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


Jim couple pics of the t-slot I made, toilet bolts from your local hardware store work great.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


Whew. Guys, that is a lot of advice. Had to run some errands, lunch with Sherie, and had been looking at the Nixon's site before I saw your post, Scott. But I remember now seeing your sled post back awhile when I was searching for something. 
Then I was working through a search result here on LJ's before lunch. With the links, thats more info than a guy can absorb. And then I get back here and you guys shipped me an encyclopedia. Now you got me, OCD has taken over, I have to do some variation on the super sled like Scott. Another week at least, just to wait for the parts. So more planning, more procrastination. I like procrastination, it is the mother of indulgence and laziness, and it creates mental exercise to find excuses. OK, so a few questions.

*Tim:* How well does your wooden T-slot hold up. I assume it has to be in a solid piece of hardwood? I noticed Nixon was using some routed slot stuff. I have a 3/8" T-slot bit, but would have to get the 3/4" one. I have had good luck with Rockler.

*Scott:* How is the sled working out for you, would you have done anything differently?

*Neil:* Your sled is the inspiration for this sled….....you are lucky though…....you don't suffer from OCD to the degree that I do….......do you?

*David:* You are right, rats, I was gonna forget the knobs…....have to make up a parts list. Thanks.

Okay, I'll wait for answers, chew my nails, and try to figure out how big a project this is gonna be….....

...............I can see and hear you guys, don't think I can't, you want a big project for the kibitz value…....huh (-:


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


*Mike:*
And of course Mike, you have to goad me on to the big project, too…......but somehow, I think there is less of the vulture in you, the other guys are just perched there looking for a meal (-:


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


*All:*
And believe it or not, I have a place to hang it. Over a frosted out window, one of three, one won't be missed….... ................. mmmmmmmm… will it honey?


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


*David:*,
You are to blame for this…...."put some removable swing protractor arms on it, and some stops".......right, kick it up a notch, you got me hooked….....but your advice is sound, if I am going to make this monstrosity and find a place to hang it, bargain with the wife for the window, I might as well make it really work. [email protected]#%%^........(-:


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## dustbunny (May 18, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


Jim,
Looks great !!
Only one question….
What about sawdust removal in the plexi area ?

Lisa


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


Hey Jim, the slots have held up fine for a year now, really haven't noticed any wear and the fence rail is 2 3/4" pieces of oak glued up.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


*dustbunny:*
I haven't got to sawdust collection on my saw yet, I do have a connection to the DC, but the design of the saw causes issues. I have some plans to close up the holes in my Delta contractor's saw. Then I have some thoughts re dust collection. But I am surprised how the dust ends up below, not on the surface as one might think, especially with high air flow I get from my DC. I also have some thoughts about cutting holes in the zero clearance inserts, and in any sled…...so more about this later…..a lot later. But great question. I'll be looking at it. Ask MickeyD how her sled is doing in that respect, I copied her design for the guard. Thanks for the review, and the question.

*Timbo:*
Thanks, I am going to order the router bit, and use that solution here and there. You seem to have the same approach to things that I naturally take. Of course, if you look at my saw switch (see my blog), perhaps I am too wierd to compare to anybody else…......(-:


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


That looks pretty good. The plexi guard is a heck of a good idea. Most of these sleds I have seen are wide open on top.

You can always add a 2.5" port for a shop vac later if dust collection is important to you…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


*dbHost:*
I have some ideas about dust collection in a contractors saw, but it has been pushed off a bit….......address it later. Thanks for the comments. That guard is from MickeyD. Think I am going to doll up this sled a bit but the guard will be the same.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Large Sled - Sketchup*
> 
> This is the *Sketchup view of my Large Sled*, hopefully will start it this weekend. I do most crosscut on the radial arm saw up to about 14", so I need a large sled for sizes beyond that. It will take a panel up to 24" wide. MDF base, high impact acrylic guard (thanks MickeyD), the rest is 3/4" birch ply. Runners will be aluminum bar backed with MDF.


Ok, now I have to start all over again. Its the fault of patron, Timbo, and Scott. I looked at yours pretty close, Scott, and at Nixon's also. I had seen his site, and super sled before, but just in passing. So I thought that using a little more t-track and a little less work on those protractor arms was a good idea, so I ordered a bunch of stuff from Rockler today. Use 5/16" hardware like you also. Picked up a T slot router bit too, but mostly for other stuff. Wanted 1/4" shank, since I haven't selected my table router yet, which will probably be a Triton or some such. So I ordered the bit from MCLS, since Rockler only had 1/2" shank. I have a very old Skil 1/4" router in perfect shape in a small table now. The router stuff is a ways off still. So will have to redo the Sketchup drawing, and make it Large Sled Version 2. Later, at work now…....................


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

*Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*

Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-: 
....probably more than you asked for.

My tool tote was born out of frustration and need. I had a plastic one that started falling apart, and was totally inadequate in any case. So I built mine, lets call him Tommy, and his sidekick Betty Bit Box. This is a utilitarian as it gets. Built about 22 years ago, it has traveled all over the state in the bowels of my motor home, suffered through rain storms (motor home fixing), snow storms, trips to the attic, out to fix the gate and the fence, onto the roof to install antennas and fix the flashing and shingles, etc. It has primarily an electrical bent, but is used for plumbing, woodworking, any shop project, etc. I suspect I will build a totally woodworking one and put different and new tools in it. So here is my thoughts on tool totes:

*PURPOSE:*
Whatever you are interested in. Really, if you are going to build one, build two or more at the same time. The concept is simple. Carry your tools to the job in a tote that has dedicated tools, that are never removed from the tote, because then you always know what is there.

I think there may be two main types:
Portable Fixitup Tote: That would be similar to Tommy
Workshop Tote: Mostly for moving commonly used tools to the point of action. Some people make large ones and put them on wheels. That is something different than Tommy, but has the same philosophy.

*PHILOSOPHY:*
Totes should fit you, and your tools. They should be extremly tough and durable. They should be mutable, meaning tool racks should come off with a few screws and be replaceable. They should be portable. You never have enough totes, I need more.

*DESIGN and CONSTRUCTION:*
There should be as many different designs as there are totes, meaning, this should be about as custom and unique as things get. Build it to fit your tools.

Considerations include:
*Size:* too big and you can't move it.
*Weight:* this is a big issue, Tommy is heavy, so construction materials and size should take weight into consideration
*Durability:* Metal would be fine, but it is not too mutable. Wood is mutable, but heavy. Plastic is probably just not workable. I chose wood, because I can build in wood easily, you can make it as tough as you want, refinish it with ease, and it is mutable.
*Construction: *I used nails and glue for much of the main construction, and then screwed add-ons to the main frame. Trust me, nails and glue with butt joints, even with ¼ plywood is amazingly strong. Tommy is 22 years old, and nothing on him has broken.
*Finish:* Danish oil works great, refinishing is easy, nicks, scratches etc don't destroy the integrity of the finish.
*Parts:* Totes are a great use for scrap, salvage drawers ( Tommy's are from my old broken purchased plastic tote), and Rube Goldberg designs.
*Handle: *It should be a rod so that you can pick it up at the point of balance. You will pile things on it and in it, and the center of gravity will change drastically. So use a rod over the top to carry it. I used a dowel.

*My tool tote, Tommy, and his sidekick, Betty the bit box*
.
Betty contains screwdriver bits, extensions, countersinks, etc.

Tommy got his 3rd, or is it 4th coat of Watco today, just so that I could show you the construction, and give you a better idea of how it is used.

Tommy with his tool racks off
.








.
Tommy's tool racks
.








.
Tommy's drawer fittings, the plastic drawers have to be lifted slightly to pull out, so they don't open on their own
.








.
Tommy's contents
.








.
Tommy's drawers
.








.
Betty bit box open, note the piece of a rubber baby buggy bumper that stops the sliding top.
I took this picture after turning Betty upside down and shaking her. Betty is designed to keep
everything in place when the top is closed.
.








.
Betty nearly closed, you can see the latch mechanism, it is very firm and it never opens unintentionally
.








.
Tommy filled from the left
.








.
Tommy filled from the right
.


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## pommy (Apr 17, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


Wow Jim that puts mine to shame maybe i need to look at making a new one LOL….......


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


*Pommy:*
Tommy is about 22 years old and still kicking. Gets changed here and there periodically.


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


wow, thats a real nice tool box everything at reach no clutter organized sweet.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


*bigike:*
I have used it so long that I took it for granted. Until Timbo spotted it and got interested in the concept. Thanks for the perusal.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


Fascinating how you blended the idea of an old wooden tool tote, with the fairly new advent of plastic drawers. Good inclusion.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


*dbhost:*
I took a good look at those drawers before using them. I remember contemplating making them, and realized they would be much heavier, and hold less in the same space. They were the one thing on that old plastic tote that had no damage and they looked well made. Well, 22 years later, I guess they were well made. Still none of them have any damage, and they look like they are ready for another 20 years. Some sort of vinyl, flexes some, not at all brittle. The screw drawer in particular has gotten heavy use, and it and the other seven look basically like new, except for surface blemishes. The plastic tote was obviously not made of the same stuff as its drawers. Something made of crappy plastic, usually has all its parts made of the same stuff. Hmmm. The tote was a different color. Bet they outsourced the drawers. Oh well, got a set of 8 good drawers, and the impetus to make a good wooden tote body.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


*dbhost:*
Few more thoughts. I suspect one of the reasons this tote has worked out well is because of the folding project tables I have, not that they are folded up often, but that they are light weight get moved all over the place, so they are always available. I usually have the tote on one of them instead of the tool bench. I actually do most of my work on the project tables. Occasionally I place it on the mobile aquarium stand remake that I now use mostly for my router table stand, but it will be a good place for the downdraft table as well.

Those light weight project tables have had a profound influence on how the shop functions and how I work. You really ought to make a few of those. They are cheap, quick to build, and are extraordinarily useful. And they are strong and stable. Use them instead of sawhorses. You know the tops of those are low density particle board. You really don't need to spend any money on them. You can clamp things to them. They are also my outfeed table for the TS.

I never thought I would get that much use out of those tables…......


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## DocK16 (Mar 18, 2007)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


My brain just got put in design mode.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


*DocK16*
Watch out, the project might be bigger than you think! (-:

Thanks for the comment….....have fun, 'tis the season to be jolly…..........


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


Thanks Jim! Great pics, I think I'm going to make a tote for the shop to keep all of my most used hand tools.There are several good ideas I will use from this blog.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


*Timbo:*
Hope it is useful. These things are so very personal and unique that there is no plan that would have widespread application. I am going to make a new tote or two, not soon, but that will contain the woodworking tools I will use most frequently. I am getting a feeling for where I am going in this hobby, but not certain yet. Remember, more than one tote may be useful. Or….......you may be the one to have a wheel mounted large one…......

Later…........


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## zlatanv (Jul 18, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


Allot better then my bucket. I need one like this, where everything is in sight and reach, I hate looking thru that bucket!


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


*zlatanv*
Hmmmmmmm…....bucket list…......hmmm…...don't think that's what you mean. I know what you mean about buckets, that's why I built my tote, a long time ago, but then, I am not young…....(-:


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


I will surely be making one of these in the near future. Then I will need someone to carry it around for me. Just have to get my Christmas stuff done first. Thanks for this thorough blog Jim. There's a lot of good ideas detailed here.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


*Mike:*
Weight is definitely an issue. Maybe a rolling tool station might be your item.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


I have always thought that this portable tooltote from ( dieter schmid - fine tools ) was reely a good way to make it but too expencive

(I don´t now if it is done correct but tryet to ad the adr. page were the tote is)

but your´s is defently a light year or two infront off this one

Dennis

ps. the adr is "("http://www.fine-tools.com/werks.htm) look after portable toolbox (homepage → clamps → portable toolbox)


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


*Dennis:*
And I made it 22 years ago…...older is better? (-: Thanks for the compliment and the review.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


Good Job Jim well done


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


*Dennis:*
I looked at those totes from dieter schmid. Its the same problem always. They don't fit your tools or the way you work. Build your own for your tools, because that is what you are doing in the hobby. This should always be a unique item. I just put out some ideas. I think plastic drawers is the way to go if you want drawers, I am sure you can find some that will work. Make sure the tool racks are removable so they can be modified or replaced. I think I could build a lighter bit box now, but not a better one. I can open it with one hand. The bits are always where they should be, and they come out easily. Just think a little about the design. This tote was built from scrap, some of it stuff I tore out during a remodel. Cheap.

My grandfather emigrated from Copenhagen in 1886, at the age of 14, along with his family, and settled in western Minnesota, Ortonville. Berthelsen is the correct spelling of my name. I am 3/4 Danish, 100% on my mother's side, and half on my fathers. I visited Denmark a number of years ago, and had a wonderful time. None of my family speaks Danish, unfortunately.

During the great depression, my grandfather made a living remodelling houses while he lived in them, and then selling them. He also owned a small coal mine, and then a small saw mill. But he was not a wealthy man. He gave me a number of his hand tools, some of which I still have. When I was four, visiting him, noted that he was shaking a little, I said in all my childish wisdom "Grandpa, I think you will die soon". He laughed, and said, "I will live to see you graduate from high school".

My father drove some distance and brought him for my graduation. I was valedictorian and gave a speech. Grandpa was 87 years old. He died 4 months later….............great memories of my Danish grandfather, I loved him dearly.

Best of wishes for the holidays, there in Denmark…....

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


*a1Jim:*
Funny, how you work with something every time you are in the shop and there is nothing special about it. But someone else sees it differently…........another neat thing about LJ's….....

Thanks Jim, as always….........


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


thank you Hr. Berthelsen for charing a little of your fammely history with us great story - if there is anything I can help with abaut the languege (verdamte word´s can´t even spell them right my dictonery has gone redlightet every time I am on LumberJock) just say so then I will do my best ( maybee a new forum - just kidden) 
abaut the tooltote I think I did´t wrote what my brain had on it´s mind what I ment abaut the tote at Dieter schmid was that to have an open tote with the tools on the autside in there own place´s whas a great inspiration idé

Your´s is fare much better ( read light year´s ahead)

Dennis


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


Hey Jim - Took a look at your totes. They not only look extremely useful aroung the shop - but they should also help build a pretty good set of arms and shoulders.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


*Dave*
This is the oldest tote, Tommy, electrical bent, and definitely the heaviest. It must be 20 pounds or more.

My measurement tote is the lightest, just a couple of pounds. I now have mounted the 18" set of Incra precision rules on top of it. Think I'll rename it Molly, for measurement tote. It is constantly in use on every project. It perches on the edge of my project tables, work bench, RAS, Table Saw tray, etc. With its pegs it can't tip. Designed free form, light weight, small foot print.

My two newest totes are one for some T wrenches, which is just a place to put them, won't get that much use, and then a bench tote, which I am starting to carry around and use frequently, in place of Tommy. It has some duplicate tools including some electrical, and some precision tools. Since that photo was taken, I have added a bunch of pin and center punches to it.

On the bench tote, I will probably duplicate a few more small items that are on Tommy, and then Tommy will be just the traveling tote for out of the shop stuff, especially electrical. However, when I want to do something electrical Tommy is mister do all with soldering iron and the whole works.

Thanks for looking and commenting. My shop is slowly emerging from a DIYer shop 25 years old, with some stuff much older, and starting to become a woodworkers shop. Slow process due to still working, and my age.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


Wait.

What's the story, here ?

How did I not comment on this ???

Was this in the ante-Bertelson (a/k/a PJ, or "Pre-Jim") days ??

Were we having some sort of a marital spat, at the time ???

This thing is (and be-LIEVE me, when I tell you that this is considered the apotheosis of praise) a certified beast !!!

A place for everything. Everything in its place. The fact that there are fittings to organize within the organization. The drawers, shelves, bins, represent an amazing assortment of organizational approaches-particularly for a relatively limited space !!

You've got my all-time favorite style of wire strippers,-virtually a well-kept secret, it seems !

The unpacked picture is reminiscent of either a Barnum & Bailey clown car, or … one of those famous "Here's what I took on my round-the-world motorcycle camping trip" pictures. I'm guessing a trash compactor played some sort of role, in that part !

Bravo, Sir ! Well played !!!

And now the bad. I'm sorry, *Jim*. I … just must.

1) Wire nuts are not Scotchlok connectors, no matter how badly they might want to be.

They just aren't.

2) The "soldering" bin looks relatively empty.

Obviously, it's in flux.

Ooooh. Sorry ;-)

Really nice, *Jim*. Really quite nice !!


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


*Neil*
As you will see, you must remember, I am older than dirt…..........(-:

....didn't you say once that you liked crow…............?

Glad you like Tommy. Tommy, and Betty, started this whole thing about totes…..when Mike from Norway, and Timbo noticed the tote on my blog about my old push-drill. Tommy is heavy, but he had multiple purposes over the years, including riding in the belly of my motorhome. I always took Tommy with me, and he saved the day, many a time.

Re the organization. My favorite item here is Betty bit-box. I am currently slowly replacing some of my older style screwdriver bits with the newer quick set and release bits. Some of the bits are hard to find replacements for, but the majority are now the new style.

Of course the drawers are a great feature. The *Soldering drawer* used to have more solder in it, but I bought new spool of high quality stuff, and it won't fit in the draw. It sits on the ledge. Re old solder. I remember being told that solder gets old and does not work well after a while. On my bench, at the soldering station, there is a 32 year old spool of solder, that is almost gone. It performs exactly as it did when new. High tin content, and pricey. So it appears that all solder does not age. The soldering paste is useful for quickly cleaning the soldering gun tip, and occasionally a stubborn material.

Re the *wire strippers*, those are over 20 years old. I just bought an exact duplicate of it, and I mean exact except for the handle color, at Lowe's to sit on my new bench tote a few weeks ago. The old one works just like the new one. Now that is a quality tool.

*Crow might roast well skewered on the spit where the embarrassment will mostly vaporize, or perhaps you could stuff it with remorse and bake it in the oven…...............(-: (-: *










...have a nice day…..............


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


WOW.

NOW I HAVE to know: How OLD are those Scotchloks ????

For as long as I have been among the Age of Majority, and … installing farkles on cars and motorcycles … THIS










was a Scotchlok-a rather crude way to tap into an existing circuit.

I was wrong, though, and I DO stand corrected 

Incidentally, these days, I find the Posi-tap to be a MUCH better way to do what I was describing:










But … Cheers … and thanks for the correction!

Incidentally, as one who formerly lived in his 1982 Airstream Excella Classic, Class A motorhome … I'll just BET Tommy had a place on EVERY MH journey.

As I found out … the answer to the ubiquitous question, "So … what do you DO at all these campgrounds??" is … "We fix stuff on our motorhomes!"


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


*Neil*
I don't think 3M invented the wire nut, but they might have I suppose. It's just that when I bought those, that was the only brand in the area. So I called them all Scotchloks, and so did a lot of other people.

I had my Southwind, which Sherie and I always thought would be just a starter motor home, for 20 years, then we gave it to my daughter in Fairbanks. Over the years, things would go wrong in the electrical system on occasion. Plus the fact that I had extra batteries in a frame I made out of angle iron and steel rod. I monitored the voltage with a home made panel from within the motorhome.

I also operated an amateur radio transceiver from the motorhome, so I was always goofing around with antennas and such. But I remember trouble shooting the heating system, the generator, etc when on the road.

We used the motorhome to go fishing, (I had an inflatable with a small motor stored in the motorhome) excursions to Fairbanks, where we would use it as a motel room when visiting my daughter, as a hotel room on ocean salmon fishing trips, taking relatives and friends to see the sights, etc. We also used it as an extra bedroom when we had a lot of visitors. Or just drive 45 minutes down to Portage Glacier campground where we hiked, and just relaxed. You can see 7 different glaciers from that campground, and go walking on glaciers besides. Here is a picture of me and my brother on a glacier at Portage….........










But the only thing worse than a motorhome for needing repairs, is an inboard fishing boat/yacht. So I carried a whole pile of tools everywhere.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


......oh, and the age of those Scotchloks….....I am guessing at least 20 years, but I am not sure. I believe I bought them here in Anchorage. I also own, what I think are the original Wire Nuts, made by Ideal, blue and orange, that I bought a year or two ago. Those are for smaller wires. Of course, I have a bunch of the yellow ones as well.

Like I have said before, I have done a lot of electrical work over the years. That Posi-Tap would have been useful for motorhome work. I made my own kinda of junction box under the hood, out of PVC and copper pipe. That way everything wasn't attached directly to the battery, which was a nightmare to troubleshoot and maintain.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


Be-au-ti-ful !!!!!

I grew up with utter contempt, disdain, and loathing for RV's. I was a backpack/tent guy.

Until I bought my Airstream 

I remember one particular night-driving back from … Lake Tahoe, or somewhere, and making a right turn into some weird and remote part of Cleveland National Forest.

I pumped the air suspension (flicked a toggle switch) on the intrepid Airstream, and bounded my way over MILES of OHV (Off-HighwayVehicle) trails wide enough_ for BoBo to navigate, but … too arduous for any sane person to attempt.

Heh-heh.

At about 9pm, I finally parked-secure in the knowledge that I was in the middle of nowhere, and nobody would bother me. I drew all the curtains, made dinner, popped in a DVD, threw a bag of Reddenbacher in the Micro (a truly Spartan existence; YOU understand), and settled in for the night.

When I awoke, the next morning, I saw where I was-it was like being on another planet-spectacular, no signs of humanity (like our world, today!), and/but … a BIG family (I'm presuming they were Catholic) of foxes … just mesmerized by the big, aluminum … thing … that had so insolently plopped itself smack, dab in the middle of THEIR turf.

I was going to post pictures of my Airstream, but … having years ago DONATED it to charity … I figured there'd be no chance.

But … I googled the generic, and … *FOUND MY AIRSTREAM* !!!!! *THIS IS BoBo. I CAN'T BELIEVE IT. THAT'S MY GRATEFUL DEAD STICKER ON THE SPARE TIRE COVER, AND THOSE ARE MY ALUMINUM A/C SHROUDS UP TOP.

BoBo !!!!!!! Oh My God!!! I have to get in touch with this person. I still have records, literature, manuals !!!

BoBo lives !!!!!




































































































I miss you, BoBo!

I HAVE to contact the owner. HOW COOL IS THIS!!!!!!


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


The fridge on BoBo is the same as the one in my SouthWind. Of course, the SouthWind is a lower quality line, and that's why we thought it would be a starter motorhome. But we just found that we didn't need anything more. The driver seat, curtains, etc look to be the same stuff also. We bought ours on Labor Day weekend at a rock bottom price. Because otherwise that motorhome would be sitting on their lot until spring, and then be last year's model. I had it rigged to be running full plumbing at below zero temperature, for early spring and late fall use.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


Ahhhhhhh, winterized.

Heated basement … so the tanks wouldn't freeze. You probably had a FULL basement, too, with pass-throughs.

Lucky dog 

These days, you buy a full-sized motorhome, they give you a free 3,500sf home in Las Vegas with it :-(

Diesel pusher or gas?

Mine was a brand new ("crate motor") 454cid motor, from Chevy. I upgraded it with Accel HEI ignition and Accel Fat Stuff wires. Also used these GM high performance, 4-electrode plugs AND synthetic oil filters, from the GM High Performance Catalog.

BoBo was good for nearly 10mpg, and … with that … came bragging rights ! The smog test facility called it "the lowest emission gas-engined vehicle they had EVER tested."

That was prior to the Prius, though ;-)

SouthWind is nice. It's like a Bounder, only put together MUCH better, and with finer accouterments.

If BoBo ran on a hydrogen fuel cell … and I weren't visually impaired (!) ... I'd have kept him, forever.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


Full basement pass through. That was handy. I insulated portions of it, and I installed a fan that would pull air from the coach through the area with plumbing. I could antifreeze the water system while I was refilling the gas tank, you know, one of those switchable reservoirs. I could bypass the water heater from the bathroom underneath the sink. It had a lot of comfort features, levelers, awning, etc. I still have dump sites at the side of the house where we have a big concrete pad.
Engine was stock gas, about like yours I believe. I was not into engines. I doubt we got 8 mpg. But it was a lot of fun. We walk through them now and then, but I suspect we will never buy another one. Too much money for the much more limited use now that we are older. Oh well, different era.

Going to go on a road trip vacation somewhere out of Chicago for two weeks starting April 30. Visit daughter in Evanston, son in Peoria, then meander aimlessly…........end up back at Chicago. Stay at high end small Inns and B&B's. We usually rent an SUV, that's what my wife likes to drive.

Don't have too many motorhome animal stories, just the usual moose, eagles, etc. I do remember driving from Valdez heading north, and my wife says, are those 2 people on bicycles up there. I peered, squinted, and when we got closer realized it was two grizzly bears running right down the middle of the road away from us. Must have been a couple of teenage bears seeing if they could bite tires, or outrun cars. In any case we slowed down and as we got closer, they ran off the road into the woods. Weird.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


........and I am glad I was in the motorhome. Don't like to meet those critters on a trail. It must average at least one death per year on the trails around Anchorage, technically in the city limits. Usually runners, not so common for hikers. They are more likely to be caring a gun. Up near my old cabin I carried a rifle when we went blueberry picking.

..and we have had our first proven killing of a person in Alaska by wolves in Chignik Bay, small village out on the Aleutian Peninsula, about 500 miles from here. Young female teacher out running.

This is the real wild wild west….............


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


What a wonderful tote, I really like the fact you let the use be in focus more than design, since this created a new speaces.
Thank you for sharing this,
Mads


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Purpose, Philosophy, Design, Construction, and Usage*
> 
> Note: I was asked to describe my tool tote after it was noted in my push drill blog. So here is my command performance (-:
> ....probably more than you asked for.
> ...


Hey Mads, thanks for stopping by.

Tommy and Betty are always in the thick of things including today. Got some new tools, minor items, a disc sander and a spindle-belt sander, and I am finding places to put things. I am just beginning to rip up the shop and make most things mobile and revamp project tables, cabinets, and counters. This will be a off and on again project. Right now, I am doing a bunch of reorg, putting the drill press on a mobile stand, and removing the the old small disc/belt sander (will give it to my son-in-law). I am way behind on my blogging, but I have to get some things done so the shop is back in usable order.

Have a good one, cool here in Anchorage today, 16deg F, -9.4 C….....foggy…....stange maritime climate, you know.

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

*Revised sled.......Soooper Sled Design*

After patron, Timbo, stefang, Scott, and NBeener goaded me on, and dbHost had more ideas, I decided I had to do the SoooperSled. So I ordered the stuff from Rockler, and now it is here. So I made a design. Still not sure whether to use plywood or MDF for the base, the plywood up here is kinda marginal. Can use it for the fences, glue up a couple of layers and make sure it is straight, but don't know for the base yet. Got a message into Timbo re that.

So assuming I use plywood I have a design. Not much new, I had Nixon's stuff and Scott's stuff up on my side computers (I frequently use three computers, one is my last main computer, the other is a cheap thing I built, and my aging main computer, all running on old, but good, 21" monitors).

I digress…..do you ever think how much heat these things give off, infrared, I am always toastie, browning in front of these monitors…......(-:

So anyway, I made a design and I am looking for comments….....cause I will be working on it soon.

Here it is from the front:










...from the back:










Tomorrow morning I will post a link to the Sketchup File and the textures I am using….......


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Revised sled.......Soooper Sled Design*
> 
> After patron, Timbo, stefang, Scott, and NBeener goaded me on, and dbHost had more ideas, I decided I had to do the SoooperSled. So I ordered the stuff from Rockler, and now it is here. So I made a design. Still not sure whether to use plywood or MDF for the base, the plywood up here is kinda marginal. Can use it for the fences, glue up a couple of layers and make sure it is straight, but don't know for the base yet. Got a message into Timbo re that.
> 
> ...


Looks like a great sled Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Revised sled.......Soooper Sled Design*
> 
> After patron, Timbo, stefang, Scott, and NBeener goaded me on, and dbHost had more ideas, I decided I had to do the SoooperSled. So I ordered the stuff from Rockler, and now it is here. So I made a design. Still not sure whether to use plywood or MDF for the base, the plywood up here is kinda marginal. Can use it for the fences, glue up a couple of layers and make sure it is straight, but don't know for the base yet. Got a message into Timbo re that.
> 
> ...


*Jim*
Thanks…......the parts are in, sooooooooo… now I have to make it…....(-:


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Revised sled.......Soooper Sled Design*
> 
> After patron, Timbo, stefang, Scott, and NBeener goaded me on, and dbHost had more ideas, I decided I had to do the SoooperSled. So I ordered the stuff from Rockler, and now it is here. So I made a design. Still not sure whether to use plywood or MDF for the base, the plywood up here is kinda marginal. Can use it for the fences, glue up a couple of layers and make sure it is straight, but don't know for the base yet. Got a message into Timbo re that.
> 
> ...


Looking good Jim, you might consider making the rear fence longer, once you make your first cut, the front and rear fence are what hold the two base pieces together.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Revised sled.......Soooper Sled Design*
> 
> After patron, Timbo, stefang, Scott, and NBeener goaded me on, and dbHost had more ideas, I decided I had to do the SoooperSled. So I ordered the stuff from Rockler, and now it is here. So I made a design. Still not sure whether to use plywood or MDF for the base, the plywood up here is kinda marginal. Can use it for the fences, glue up a couple of layers and make sure it is straight, but don't know for the base yet. Got a message into Timbo re that.
> 
> ...


I had an idea? No clue where that came from!

Seriously though. That design is looking really good… Can't wait to see it done…

Looks like something that should be featured in one of the magazines…..


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

jbertelson said:


> *Revised sled.......Soooper Sled Design*
> 
> After patron, Timbo, stefang, Scott, and NBeener goaded me on, and dbHost had more ideas, I decided I had to do the SoooperSled. So I ordered the stuff from Rockler, and now it is here. So I made a design. Still not sure whether to use plywood or MDF for the base, the plywood up here is kinda marginal. Can use it for the fences, glue up a couple of layers and make sure it is straight, but don't know for the base yet. Got a message into Timbo re that.
> 
> ...


Jim, this is a nice looking sled (I should say that it looks a lot like the one I built LOL). It should be a pretty good addition to your shop. The only comment I would make is that, since it is similar to mine, I find that the star knob that holds the stop block on the T-track will hit the blade guard when cutting small pieces. I am going to replace mine with something smaller… someday. This is not a big issue but it is a minor annoyance.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Revised sled.......Soooper Sled Design*
> 
> After patron, Timbo, stefang, Scott, and NBeener goaded me on, and dbHost had more ideas, I decided I had to do the SoooperSled. So I ordered the stuff from Rockler, and now it is here. So I made a design. Still not sure whether to use plywood or MDF for the base, the plywood up here is kinda marginal. Can use it for the fences, glue up a couple of layers and make sure it is straight, but don't know for the base yet. Got a message into Timbo re that.
> 
> ...


Your plan looks great and you've done a very good drawing of it. To be honest Jim, I don't know much about these sleds as I don't need one with my sliding miter table. I will make a few observations, but I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't help you much (or at all).

1. I agree with Timbo that you should have a board all across the back similar to your front board to stiffen up the
sled which will be mostly sliced in two after your first cut.

2. The push handle, if that's what it is, seems to be located in a dangerous place if the saw blade will be coming all
the way or part way into the box on the front of the sled.

3. I'm not sure what the purpose of the box over the blade is. I think it will limit visibility and not add any safey.
However, I know you are a smart guy and probably have a good reason for having it that I haven't thought of.
If you keep it, then you might consider putting a small vacuum hose mount on it for dust removal.

4. I can see no reason why you couldn't use MDF on the base. It will be fully supported by your saw table and 
presumably your outfeed table, so strength isn't as issue. If you use screws to mount your fences this could be
an issue, but I think those terrace board or plasterboard screws or whatever you call them might work ok.

My comments here are probably way over the top or just plain dumb, but I hope you find them useful anyway.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Revised sled.......Soooper Sled Design*
> 
> After patron, Timbo, stefang, Scott, and NBeener goaded me on, and dbHost had more ideas, I decided I had to do the SoooperSled. So I ordered the stuff from Rockler, and now it is here. So I made a design. Still not sure whether to use plywood or MDF for the base, the plywood up here is kinda marginal. Can use it for the fences, glue up a couple of layers and make sure it is straight, but don't know for the base yet. Got a message into Timbo re that.
> 
> ...


If you use the right density of hardwood for the transom, you should be able to get at least a two or three horsepower trolling motor on the back of that thing ;-)

Looks great! I actually agree with the stiffening concept. My first sled had inadequate bracing (that the back board/fence provides). After the first cut, the cut-the thickness of the blade's kerf-wanted to close up about half-way. Luckily, I noticed it, but … nothing I cut would have been square if I hadn't.

Nice, nice Sketchup drawing, incidentally!

I also found that I needed the plexiglass to be about three times thicker than I thought it would require. It has a fairly large clear span, from front to back. My first plex (0.093", IIRC) seemed pretty flimsy.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Revised sled.......Soooper Sled Design*
> 
> After patron, Timbo, stefang, Scott, and NBeener goaded me on, and dbHost had more ideas, I decided I had to do the SoooperSled. So I ordered the stuff from Rockler, and now it is here. So I made a design. Still not sure whether to use plywood or MDF for the base, the plywood up here is kinda marginal. Can use it for the fences, glue up a couple of layers and make sure it is straight, but don't know for the base yet. Got a message into Timbo re that.
> 
> ...


*Scott*
Had your sled blog up on my left hand computer (I run three) while I did the Sketchup, Nixon's pdf of his sled on the right one.

*Timbo, Mike, Neil*
If I shorten the protractor arms to 24" instead of 28" I should be able to run a complete board across the back without it interfering with the arms. I'll model the postioning in Sketchup to verify that. I am trying to watch the weight.

*Nottoman*
I have some 1/4" high impact plexi that should work nicely for the guard.

*Neil*
The fighting chair is on order…................(-: . Re the chair, it has dual bottle holders, an ice bucket, and piped in sound…..............................

*Mike*
The blade is much lower than the sled handle, and will not come through the bottom of the box, it has a 3/4" ply hollow block underneath it that is higher than the maximum height of the blade. I am thinking of trolling (like that Neil?) a hook like thing behind it that will stop the sled when the saw is through the material, but still 
in the safety block. The little box on top of the block is for stops, holddowns, etc.

I like the idea of a cover for the blade if at all possible. I have seen some of the craziest things happen, and have heard of worse, such as dropped objects, etc. My RAS does not have the best guard in the world, but
since I don't rip with it, there is no issue because your hands are not moving. I think I will put in the guard, and the dust control will be an add on as needed. On my drill press, I split the DC feed in a wooden box so that it sucks from underneath the table as well as through a flexible hose on the top. The combo works very well, although the flexible part is a work in progress. I might have a similiar split arrangement on the TS eventually. DC on the TS is a ways away yet.

I really can hardy believe the quality of the cuts of that TS since I tricked it out, what an improvement.

*So the upshot is: 
I can make the base out of 1/2" MDF, even with the slots for the for the protractor arms, if I stiffen the back with a full length board. Do all you kibitzers agree with that?*

Thanks guys, this is a great way to design something.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Revised sled.......Soooper Sled Design*
> 
> After patron, Timbo, stefang, Scott, and NBeener goaded me on, and dbHost had more ideas, I decided I had to do the SoooperSled. So I ordered the stuff from Rockler, and now it is here. So I made a design. Still not sure whether to use plywood or MDF for the base, the plywood up here is kinda marginal. Can use it for the fences, glue up a couple of layers and make sure it is straight, but don't know for the base yet. Got a message into Timbo re that.
> 
> ...


*All*

Timbo and I have been messaging back and forth, and it occurred to me that the miter slides will be a structural element since I will make them out of MDF and aluminum bar.

So full length front and back fences, and strong miter slides should make MDF the best choice is seems to me. Especially with the crappy plywood I have access to here. I'll screw the miter slides all the way into the fences after I get the slides and fences perfectly aligned….........

How does that sound?


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Revised sled.......Soooper Sled Design*
> 
> After patron, Timbo, stefang, Scott, and NBeener goaded me on, and dbHost had more ideas, I decided I had to do the SoooperSled. So I ordered the stuff from Rockler, and now it is here. So I made a design. Still not sure whether to use plywood or MDF for the base, the plywood up here is kinda marginal. Can use it for the fences, glue up a couple of layers and make sure it is straight, but don't know for the base yet. Got a message into Timbo re that.
> 
> ...


Off to do some errands and get on the hated elliptical trainer, weights, etc, back in an hour or so…........


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Revised sled.......Soooper Sled Design*
> 
> After patron, Timbo, stefang, Scott, and NBeener goaded me on, and dbHost had more ideas, I decided I had to do the SoooperSled. So I ordered the stuff from Rockler, and now it is here. So I made a design. Still not sure whether to use plywood or MDF for the base, the plywood up here is kinda marginal. Can use it for the fences, glue up a couple of layers and make sure it is straight, but don't know for the base yet. Got a message into Timbo re that.
> 
> ...


nice sled i made one of these and the only thing i want to add is to put some rubber bumpers on all the corners or even the plastic table edgeing. the one where u have to rout a groove and glue in the plastic toung, cuz i store mine on the floor and my shop floor is not smooth at all so the corner of my sled got a little ruffed up.but all in all the sled works great. the additions u made are nice and look to have made the sled safer to use.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Revised sled.......Soooper Sled Design*
> 
> After patron, Timbo, stefang, Scott, and NBeener goaded me on, and dbHost had more ideas, I decided I had to do the SoooperSled. So I ordered the stuff from Rockler, and now it is here. So I made a design. Still not sure whether to use plywood or MDF for the base, the plywood up here is kinda marginal. Can use it for the fences, glue up a couple of layers and make sure it is straight, but don't know for the base yet. Got a message into Timbo re that.
> 
> ...


*bigike*
Good suggestion about the corners, especially since it looks like I will use MDF for the main board. I will store mine on then wall, but the corners are going to get hit. I will probably put something strong on the corners, will have to look at Lowe's and see what they have.


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## dlmckirdy (Oct 27, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Revised sled.......Soooper Sled Design*
> 
> After patron, Timbo, stefang, Scott, and NBeener goaded me on, and dbHost had more ideas, I decided I had to do the SoooperSled. So I ordered the stuff from Rockler, and now it is here. So I made a design. Still not sure whether to use plywood or MDF for the base, the plywood up here is kinda marginal. Can use it for the fences, glue up a couple of layers and make sure it is straight, but don't know for the base yet. Got a message into Timbo re that.
> 
> ...


I wanted to use som t-molding on a project last year. I searched the web, and found the best price to be at T-molding.com. You can get a very reasonably priced edge banding trimmer at Lowes.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Revised sled.......Soooper Sled Design*
> 
> After patron, Timbo, stefang, Scott, and NBeener goaded me on, and dbHost had more ideas, I decided I had to do the SoooperSled. So I ordered the stuff from Rockler, and now it is here. So I made a design. Still not sure whether to use plywood or MDF for the base, the plywood up here is kinda marginal. Can use it for the fences, glue up a couple of layers and make sure it is straight, but don't know for the base yet. Got a message into Timbo re that.
> 
> ...


*dlmckierdy*
Thanks for the comments. I will save the sources for future orders. Might actually get a little work done on this thing later in the week, we'll see. Busy week.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

*Second Revision.......Super Sled Sketchup Design*

After much knashing of teeth and pulling of hair, I decided on a compromise.

1) I am going to use 3/4" plywood, which I have and can obtain that is flat, i.e. not warped. The weight is not significantly different than the 1/2" MDF. The loss in blade height of 1/4" is inconsequential, because very thick pieces would undoubtedly be narrower, and I would cut them with the RAS. 
2) I am going back to the original back design of Scott and Nixon, i.e. 11.5". I don't need to worry about the plywood breaking off of it like the MDF. If it works for Scott and Nixon, it should work for me, and my plywood is thicker. Note that the wood the handle is attached to as well as the blade safety block will hold the pieces together until I make final adjustments of the main fence.
3) The rails (miter slides) will be 3/4"x1/8" aluminum bar backed up with 1/4" ply, hardboard, or MDF, I don't think it is too important.
4) I went back to 28" protractor arms, since this size board can handle them.

So I am ready for the critique, throw your best punches…...................

Front view:










Back view:


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Second Revision.......Super Sled Sketchup Design*
> 
> After much knashing of teeth and pulling of hair, I decided on a compromise.
> 
> ...


Here is the Sketchup File for the Soooper Sled

Soooper Sled Sketchup File

The only object I downloaded was some thread for the bolts, which I then modified in a number of ways. The Rockler star knobs are original, I couldn't find the exact item in the warehouse. Feel free to use anything in the file anyway you want. I turned off the shadows, since they take a lot of processing. Choose edge or profile in the edge style under the view menu item.

I have opened another blog item for the textures,

Sketchup Texture Blog

which I used in this drawing, as well as many others designed for woodworking. This will be a work in progress and I will update it and notify people in that blog item when updates occur.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Second Revision.......Super Sled Sketchup Design*
> 
> After much knashing of teeth and pulling of hair, I decided on a compromise.
> 
> ...


And by the way, you can move the top bolt thread or the bottom into the knob. This is 5/16" stuff. You can downscale the thread for 1/4". If someone is interested, I can make a series of Rockler Star knobs with various thread and ends, as well as the hold downs, which I just got, so I can measure and recreate them in Sketchup.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Second Revision.......Super Sled Sketchup Design*
> 
> After much knashing of teeth and pulling of hair, I decided on a compromise.
> 
> ...


Hey Jim. It will be interesting to see the finished sled and to see how you like it. It looks really flexible, and so should make it easy for you to make quite a variety of really accurate cuts without too much fuss. Good luck with the build.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Second Revision.......Super Sled Sketchup Design*
> 
> After much knashing of teeth and pulling of hair, I decided on a compromise.
> 
> ...


*Mike*
Thanks for the view, now I am doing a starter project today, a type of tote, or organizer for measurement tools and other small stuff. Hopefully I will get it done today and get some pictures. Then on to the sled. I need that for my next project for the office, although I could do it without it, but it provides impetus to get the sled done.

*Dave*
Thanks so much for the critique. On my computer and with my file the arms and the fences are on the face of the base. But those two structures underwent so many changes and permutations, that I wouldn't be surprised to see anything occur. The back fence in particular got changed a lot. I did this in more detail than I might of needed, but it was a training project for me, and now I feel much more proficient. Always feel free to publicly critique my stuff, its how we learn, and I am sure I will never reach your level of proficiency. We all appreciate that you take the time to help and teach us…..you are to be commended.

I wasn't aware that Sketchup would save the unused textures and components in the file. The last 3D modeler I used didn't do that, although in earlier versions it did. I will delete those and resave the file.

As for the construction, we'll see. I approach the squaring of the main fence with some trepidation, but I usually get that stuff right just because I am so compulsive about those things. I am worried about the weight, not that I won't be able to handle it, but if it is clumsy then it won't get much use. It is big, but there was no sense in making a small one, because I do that stuff on the RAS. It is faster and safer, and it is at least as accurate, and has a clean cut.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Second Revision.......Super Sled Sketchup Design*
> 
> After much knashing of teeth and pulling of hair, I decided on a compromise.
> 
> ...


*Dave*
Is it sufficient to just click "Purge Unused" in the Model Info - Statistics to get rid of the unused materials and components? That brought the file from 3.3 mb to 1.9 mb. Is that what you got?

Oh, and thanks for the suggestion on the slots, I was just slavishly copying John Nixon's PDF on his super sled. I'll have to evaluate that but it makes sense to me. You know, now that I am using 3/4" ply, I could imbed T track there instead of relying on the routing. I am thinking I will do that.

By making the drawing I am trying to avoid a lot of pitfalls, as well as learning SU. It has made me rethink some some of the sled, especially comparing it to my first rendition. It is cheaper and easier than finding out your mistakes or design deficiencies in the shop.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Second Revision.......Super Sled Sketchup Design*
> 
> After much knashing of teeth and pulling of hair, I decided on a compromise.
> 
> ...


*Dave*
Beat it up Dave, because it is a lot faster than having to ferret out all this stuff myself. I have very thick skin, and am used to constructive criticism as a part of my job. We are always critiquing and exchanging information there, and nobody knows everything, or is a master of everthing in my profession.

Ah, I didn't know there was a difference between painting the component as a whole and each face individually. Didn't realize that the component had a "wrapper" that was an entity, I thought it was purely a collection of the parts. The thread I imported from someone else, I will reverse the faces. I suspect the T- track faces got reversed when I cut them with a boolean operation. Some of this stuff happened because I was making rapid changes, and those arms changed out about three times, going from 24 to 28 to 24 and then finally back to 28".

I moved the global axes on purpose, to help with some positioning, and forgot to move them back. Which fence are you talking about?


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Second Revision.......Super Sled Sketchup Design*
> 
> After much knashing of teeth and pulling of hair, I decided on a compromise.
> 
> ...


*Dave*
Thanks for the monochrome tip. Wasn't aware of that.

I changed my back face color to green also, good tip, never looked at that dialog, looked briefly for some other settings a while back, but didn't have time to pursue it. Now I know where to look

I 'defloated' the components. Since the T bolts are part of those components, the wood face isn't the first thing the component trys to locate on an adjacent face. I am sure the back fence got corrupted when I inadvisably used some booleans as a matter of convenience, when I should have just been pushing faces. I have learned to use the boolean stuff sparingly.

This is my big learning project for Sketchup, so thanks for the help. I tend to move rapidly to complex stuff with graphics programs because of my other graphics experience, so I end up with some crazy results until I learn the quirks of each program. I don't think I will ever get into it as deep as you, but I need to know enough to make some complex drawings rapidly, so I burned a lot of hours getting used to SU.

If you think of anything else let me know, this has been a great help.

Thanks again, Dave.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

*Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*

*INTRODUCTION*
This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.

So here is the new tote, Tammy the shop tote, loaded with the intended tools, which I am sure will change over time:










*HISTORY*
Tammy, who has a very different appearance, is designed to stay in the shop, but is more flexible as to content. Tammy was built last Sunday in a couple of hours, and although inherently flexible, has a distinct purpose in my shop. She is designed to carry mostly measurement tools and instruments, and a few other frequently used items. She is a little similar to another tote, that sits on the back of my radial arm saw table. He is named Toby, and was built 10 years ago or so. He wasn't designed to move anywhere, and Tammy is so much better, the result of discovering Toby's deficiencies, that Toby will be replaced soon by a tote similar to Tammy, and Toby will become a shelf on the wall or on some other bench.

Here is venerable old Toby, useful, but not as useful as he needs to be…....










Toby brings one characteristic to Tammy intact, his method of fixation to the table top. He has 2 iron studs, made from 16d nails, that fit in drilled holes on the table. They are so effective, that, not remembering after 10 years of stitting there, I thought he was screwed to the table. So when I had to remove him and put him on the new RAS table I looked for the nonexistent screws, and then found that he was easily removeable, and lifted him off. Tammy, the new shop tote has the same system.

*PHILOSOPHY*
As noted in my previous tote blog, I think there are a few essential requirements for totes:

1. Totes should fit you, and your tools
2. They should be extremly tough and durable
3. They should be mutable
4. They should be portable

......and an observation….....
5. You never have enough totes

I noted there were two purposes for totes, the portable fix-em-up type and the shop tote. Tommy is a fix-em-up type but is always at my side during projects, because he carries a lot of stuff that is useful. And Tammy is a shop tote, designed to be in the shop, and not go elsewhere.

*DESIGN*
Tammy was designed with a smaller opening in between the bottom two shelves because I knew my big digital instruments would go there, and actually one more will be there, my Wixey digital angle gauge. I don't really need to see that shelf well. Tammy is symmetrical front to back, and she is open at the front and back, (Toby the RAS tote is open only at the front, a problem). The curved cut outs on the sides are to facilitate reaching in at an angle. You should be able to reach tools from nearly all angles. Seeing is not quite as important, because you remember what is where after awhile.

Perhaps two new Tote principles here:
6. All tools should be readily visible
7. Tool accessibility should be maximized

Tammy has the same studs as Toby. I made holes in all my project tables at all corners (they are very mobile and can get turned around), and on my workbench as well. I can pick up Tammy and in a few seconds have her securely situated at another work site.

Tools fall to the floor, with more or less disastrous results in my experience, because you push them off with something else. You cannot easily push Tammy off the work areas, in fact it is nearly impossible with a random movement. The tools on Tammy are held by low edges front and back, so random movements will not dislodge them. The front and back lips of the shelves can easily be made as high as you need for security for a given tool set. Mine are about 3/8". A secure system of mounting is important, because you want the tote away from the center of the workspace, near the edge.

*CONSTRUCTION*
Unlike Tommy, there are no customized tool racks, so nothing has to be removable and replaceable. Hence, Tammy fits the mutability requirement. Finished with Black Walnut WATCO danish oil. You can't compromise it with scratches or dents. Danish oil is a good shop jig finish.

Tammy's construction is plywood with dados, nails, and glue. I have said this before, and I will say it again, this type of construction is highly underrated, and I have never had it fail in up to 25 years of hard use. The sides are 1/2 birch ply, the shelves and edging are 1/4 inch birch ply. The studs are 16d nails, protruding 3/4" and cut and rounded on the end. The shelves are dadoed into the sides. Tammy is very light weight.

I made a jig for the right dimensions for Tammy's studs, and drilled 9/64 holes, then inserted the nails. Cut them off 3/4" above the surface, removed them, rounded the surface with a file, and replaced them. I used super glue to keep the studs in Tammy. Then used the same jig (just a piece of wood with two screws driven in and protruding) to place all the holes in my work surfaces. Works perfectly. You may want to enlarge the holes in the work surfaces with a little in and out of the drill.

Outside dimensions: approximately 8 1/4" high, 7" deep, 11 3/4" wide. These dimensions are about what I wanted, influenced by scrap material on hand.

*MORE PICTURES*

Here's the stuff I put in Tammy, minus the angle gauge….....










Here's a picture that lets you see Tammy's stud's, I cut the curves in her side with my bandsaw. I used a template I quickly made with Corel Draw's superb bezier function capability, printed up patterns to scale, and cut them out, and drew them on the board.










And here is Tammy, with her feminine curves, and Tommy with his robust muscle compared….....










..........aren't they a cute couple? (-:


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


Fantastic, Jim!!

Not only does form follow function, but totally entertaining literature ensues 

Have a great holiday !!


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


*Neil*

Your comments always eclipse my prose…......(-:

Thank you sir, have a good holiday yourself…..............


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


Hr. Berthelsen
In the short time I have been here on L J (and learned so much) I still would say how had we done the thing´s before with aut your tote´s and idea´s I Don´t now but they are qiet clever and your discription on how to make the thing´s and thought´s behind is great

keep them comming

merry chrismas to you and yours

Dennis


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


Thank you Jim. I just love stuff like this. Your totes are four things: simple, practical, useful, and ingenious. The stories that accompany them are also entertaining (is that five things then?). No matter. I'm sure I will be building Tammy. I like her figure and her skills. I probably will ad a handle though because I move around a lot between my two benches and various table tops that I also sit at and do work. I also thought that a little different version of Tammy would be good for holding my carving chisels which I would like to make more accessible and portable. Thanks for posting this and helping us improve our working conditions! (I need all the help I can get).


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


Nice Jim, this is a style of tote I have note considered and the studs on the bottom are something that may work with dog holes on my bench. Thanks for posting gives me more to ponder when I make one for my bench.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


*Dennis*
Thanks for your kind comments. Hope all is well in Denmark for the holiday season. This type of thing is fast and fun to build, much of it can be from scrap.

*All*
It's fun to have someone use the Danish spelling of my name (it got changed on Ellis Island). As Dennis knows, that is actually how my great-grandfather spelled it when he lived in Denmark prior to emigrating.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


*Mike,Tim, and Dennis*
I like the openness of this design. I didn't put a handle on her, because I found I would make a deliberate move from one set of holes to another, and Tammy doesn't sit well outside of holes, because of the studs. I find two hands makes it is easier to place her in the next set of holes. I grasp her with the first two fingers in the back curved top opening, and the other two fingers in the front curved opening and my thumb along the top. The other hand does the same thing on the other side. That might not be easy if you have small hands, if your tote is a lot bigger than Tammy, or if it is quite heavy. Then I think the handle would be a lot more convenient. Handles on each side near the top might work well too, kind of like a large serving dish or Dutch Oven, in fact, I think that would be the best handle design for a number of reasons especially because you will tend to use two hands, because you will be more accurate in placing it into the holes.

Studs might not be necessary with a heavier tote, one that perhaps was deeper relative to the height. But be sure that it won't tip, or move easily, because it is logical to place the tote at the edge or corner of the table to maximize the working space. And in my case, I am constantly moving those project tables, because they are light weight, and I move them to fit the project and tools in use. I don't place Tammy at the absolute corner, because I tend to butt my project tables into power tools, and under ledges, etc.

To be honest, I said to myself, "Mike is gonna love this thing, that scroll saw is a natural for making the sides with their curved edges." Actually, using this basic concept, I can think of a myriad of modifications and uses, many of which would involve making tool racks on the scroll saw, or with a small band saw like mine. The top could easily be made to have racks attached by screws (think that is important because the tools may change or be replaced). Side handles could also be scrolled, I see a compound cut in a solid piece of wood, one to make the rounded profile from the top, and another to provide a finger hold with a profile from the front to back. Additional strips could be used to partition a shelf or effectively make a small parts bin, especially if the tote is designed to hold interchangeable parts and bits for a cutting tool or other.

One thing to remember, you will be reaching through those curved cutouts to directly access a tool from an angle, that is their purpose. Hence those curves should be sanded, and the edges of those curves beveled, I used a small drum sander on the drill press for that. Same can be said for the pieces that form the lips on the shelves. Those lips also form part of the structural integrity of the piece, and my pieces are 5/8" high, and butting on the 1/4" shelves, gives a 3/8" lip. They are glued and nailed into place. Actually, the dadoes for the shelves were press fit tight enough that it stood up and could be moved around even before I glued them into place.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


*Tim*
Off topic, but I have my grandfather's old brace, meaning for a bit and brace. I don't use it much lately because our power drills generate enough torque. But the brace might still have an advantage in certain situations such as with a long heavy bit. The brace is by Merit Tools, probably bought about 1930, and I bet he bought it from the Sears Catalog, since they sold this item. It is still a functional, ratcheting, brace, and might be fun to fix up. Do you have any comments?


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## BarbS (Mar 20, 2007)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


Wow Jim, thanks! Your Tammy shelf looks like just what I need to move essentials from one side of the shop to another, and give them all a 'place'. Thanks for the idea!


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


*barbs*
Thanks for the viewing and the comments. This thing was fun to build. I designed it staring at a very rough Sketchup model, and thinking about its intended usage. I also considered the limitations of Toby, my RAS table tote.

Best to you and yours for the holidays…........


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


Looks neat, Jim.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


*Charles*
Thanks again for viewing and commenting. I gather you are coming along with your woodworking, looking at your web site. I always figured that half the fun for me in this hobby would be diddling around with shop stuff, since the projects are frequently small and utilitarian, and lend themselves to design innovation, which I also enjoy.

Have a good holidays Charles, best to you and yours…...................


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


Wow Jim. That grip description reminded me of some golf lessons I took once. I was so bad at golf that I had to take up woodworking, so the grip talk made me shudder a bit. I get your point though. Another heresy I intend to commit is to drop the the nails on the bottom. Don't think I will need to secure the tote in my situation. I might make the bottom stick out a bit all the way around so I could quickly fix it to a work surface with a one-handed clamp. As you said I might be using the scroll saw on this project, but it will give me some well needed cutting practice and some fancy work that I can actually keep for a change. Also I have to admit that I was wondering why the side cut-out configuration, and I was glad to hear that this had to do with function. Some people actually use their brains to reason things out. I wondered what it was good for. Now I know.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


*Jim*:

How come you haven't graced us with any pictures of the other latest addition-the one that probably weighs in at something around eight pounds, and is … coincidentally … also called "Jim."

???


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


*NBeener*

One thing at a time I´m sure Mr. Bethelsen will show us in the furture but for now let him share all the good thought´s with us I´m sure there is a lot other LJ´s aut there like me who presiat all the right thing´s that people share and we allso would like to see some mistake´s but at a much later time just before we make them 

Dennis


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


*Neal*
I am working on the pictures….....this is their third child, so the pictures are an afterthought. I'll get on it right away now, though…............I inquired today…........

I'd like to know what he looks like too…...........hopefully, not like me…........


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


Jim, on the brace, check out http://www.georgesbasement.com/ there is a ton of info on old tools.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Tool Totes - Shop Tote for Small Tools and Instuments*
> 
> *INTRODUCTION*
> This is a description of Tammy Tote, a much different tote than Tommy, who was described per request, and is very utilitarian, meant to leave the shop when necessary, and had a distinctly electrical bent. Tommy is described here Tommy Tote, and the tote philosophy.
> ...


*Timbo*
Thanks for the link, that is quite a site. My old Merit brace was a common place, apparently Sears catalog listed, item. Nothing special about mine, it was obviously well used, and much of the nickel plating is off. Not really worth fixing up, other than cleaning it because the rachet mechanism is stiff. I'll degunk it, grease and oil it and keep it around, because it was my grandfather's.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

*Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*

This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.

*I made a panel sled…....a 3×3 foot monster.*

One sided, blade to the left, fence at the front. The sled is not finished off, meaning, I am going to put a little oak on the front, the rabbeted pieces are already cut and sized, and give it the ubiquitous coat of WATCO. In my shop, WATCO is the rule for jigs and fixtures.

*Here is the underside.*










It only has one working slide. The slide on the edge is to make it level for the outfeed table….......
Large but light, 1/2 inch MDF and my aluminum and hardboard sandwich slides.
The sled is just to the right of the blade, hence only one slide.

*Fence Detail:* (see pictures down the page)
The aluminum angle fence is attached with screws and bolts at the ends. The bolt near the blade is actually run through a threaded hole in the aluminum angle. The end bolt goes through the edge slider for strength and has an oversized hole in the angle for adjustment. The other screws in the angle are through oversized holes in the angle aluminum. All screws and bolts are fixed with lock washers.

*Notice the front projection for the slide. When I start a cut the slide is fully engaged on the TS top, front to back.*

My runners are made from 3/4 inch by 1/8 inch stock aluminum, glued to 1/8 inch hardboard, about 1/16 inch narrower than the aluminum with CA glue. The slide is also screwed, the edge slide is not. Aluminum because it is easy to work, including countersinking the screws, steel would be nicer….....a compromise, the slide is glued to the MDF or plywood with Titebond III

*This looks like a great way to build a sled for panels, quick, relatively light, and accurate, it is simple, quick, and cheap.*

Note the support, a piece of aluminum tubing in some already dadoed oak, that was waste. The tubing is not attached, it rolls and slides with the wood.










*Why did I make this unwieldy beast? Well it is a long story. It is about sleds.*

*Once upon a time…... there was this novice LJ*, who decided to make a crosscut sled…......simple….......and when the LJ buddies, gurus, and experts got through with it…........it became a super sled. Almost done. Except for the miter arms. So routing the oak the for the arms…....

*no matter how I clamped it, the oak jumped around and I got lousy slots.*

The problems was layers, I needed room underneath, because it was a through slot, and that meant layers of clamped guides. Bad.

*So not knowing there was a slick method to make slots on the router table, I decided to make a project table, reversible, one side for through cuts, the other side absolutely flat with reference angle corners to do glueups, setups, whatever.*

Now, once finding the way to make the slots, already well on my way with the project table, I said to myself:

*'This project table is a great idea, I am going to go on and finish it'.*

It is a convoluted strange variant on Bricofleur's Rout through Jig, http://lumberjocks.com/projects/23200,

*Thanks Serge!!!*

(I didn't realize this until I was half way through it, and it was obvious that the general idea came from him, I had favorited his jig).

Now the project table top is reversible in my standard 2×4 foot project table base, so it already has prebuilt legs. So I finished it off. Lot of glueups. Needs a little metal to make it robust, meaning nails and screws, but heavy and absolutely flat…...........and but…......

*.........the sides were not straight and the corners therefore were not reference angles….... I wanted that.*

So, to the rescue, the Quick and Dirty Panel sled.

So today, I finished the sled….......

*This is basically using the TS as a Jointer.*

I had to use a run off fence to guide it because the table top was longer than the sled. Check out the Rockler fence clamps….....

So I ran my project table top through the saw, using the sled, all four sides….......

But….....checked it out…..........

*PERFECT STRAIGHT SIDES AND ABSOLUTELY RIGHT ANGLES FOR REFERENCE AT EACH CORNER…......ALL RIGHT!!*

.......an overview of the sled with the project table on it….........










Notice the project table way in back. It is used for an infeed table, just supporting the corner as I get started.

Another view of the sled in action, note the clamped stop block. When I turned the project table top crosswise that was not possible, but it still worked well….......










I am really excited….....this Q&D sled worked out great…......

........next blog is the project table top, essentially complete. A real oddity.

*Hope you enjoyed sledding, on the 4th of July…...........(-:*

Bammmmm…......

*Alaska Jim*


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


Now that's a sled!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just one question- where will you store it ;^)

BTW, I have the same table saw fence.

Great blog and project, Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


*Lew*
Thanks for the view. The sled is big, but with the run off fence, using it as a jointer, it will go to 4 feet, 3 feet without.

I noted your VEGA fence in some of your pictures. Great fence, accurate, easy to install, and flexible. I was torn between the more expensive fences and this one, but this turned out to be perfect. I also use the 'Finger Saver' they sell, I used it today.

Right now the sled is propped along with the crosscut sled against some shelves. They will end up in different places. Fortunately I have the garage, and it has a little wall space.

I was amazed that I actually got that project table totally squared away. I built this sled for the job, but I was still pessimistic. In any case it is a cheap and simple sled, probably for large panels only. My super sled should do the rest.

Jim


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


My fence slides on a round "tube" at the operators end. It has a micro adjustment knob built in but the micro lock often slips and is difficult to lock- a sharp wrap with a push stick usually does the trick. Have you experienced this?

Lew


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


Haven't had any problems, but I don't use the micro adjustment lock much. Only easy fix I can think of is cleaning it. In some reviews, from years ago, I noted various issues, but nothing recent.

Jim


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to more Jim ,super looking job


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## ArcticTroy (Jan 5, 2010)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


Wow, it's like "Stone Soup", only with wood. A hundred ingredients later and this is the result; well done. I hope to see it in person soon.
I am convinced that over time, the real appreciation for this advanced divice will increase over time and use.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


Great result Jim. It's great to have dependable accuracy and I'm certain you will use it a lot for that reason. It looks robust and should serve you well. Excellent blog. Fun to see what you are doing over there. Thanks for sharing this.


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## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


Awesome sled Jim. I am glad you finally consider your Magnum Opus complete. Upon first viewing, my first thought was that you approached this with the question "What would Paul Bunyan use?"

This sled does it all and I can definitely understand your glee.

David


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


now I can finely set my bottle with nervetablets away
I have set here in my chair waiting to see the reveal of this
superslede
and it looks great Jim 
I´m sure it will serve you well the next many years
every great things take time and is worth waiting for
it has been a pleasure to follow the blog with all your thoughts about it
thank´s Jim for sharing them

best thoughts
Dennis


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


*All, for clarification. *

This Panel Sled was built to work on the project tabletop to basically joint it and square it. Although large, it is not particularly heavy because it does not have wooden fences, and is only 1/2 inch thick.

The project tabletop, should be done this week, although I will make some fences and jigs for it.

My Super Sled, is a whole 'nother animal. It is in use, but the miter arms aren't complete. I will finish those arms as soon as the project table is done. My SuperSled is made of plywood and has the front and back fences and slots for the miter arms and/or holddowns. It has two slides in the normal fashion.

So finally I will finish 3 shop projects in the next week or so. I have two days of call this week, so may be a little busy. But I am well rested and hopefully will get a bunch done this weekend.

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


*a1Jim*
Thanks for The comments. These projects have come on real slow due to a busy June at work, especially with weekend call. I really didn't recover until yesterday. Boy, getting old is the pits.

*Troy*
The project tabletop should be very useful, and will never be put away, because it just replaces an already existing project table top. Those old project tables have lift off tops. The new tabletop will function the same way with the flat side, but has the added function of multiple miter slots, and reference straight sides and corners. The new top is 1 inch thick, two layers of 1/2 inch MDF. I have to cut a few more miter slots, I was waiting to get the edges trued up. The other side with the elevated sections, is for through cuts and routing, and will accept all kinds of jigs and fences. I still need to make some long fences for it, although a piece of wood with a couple of holddowns would work in a pinch.

*Mike*
Fortunately I like shop projects, because that is all that I have accomplished for awhile, except for those planter stands. Like I said to a1Jim, getting old gets in the way of getting things done, especially when work competes for time and energy. Already have someone in labor this morning, and a couple of other people to see in the hospital as well.

*David Craig*
As noted above, this Panel Sled was build to true up the project tabletop, which was originally started to do the through routing of the miter arms for my Super Sled. I could have rigged up a jointer fence for the TS as an alternative, but this Panel Saw method is extremely accurate up to 4 feet. I have the stuff purchased to make a jointer fence for the TS, as well, but probably won't do that for a while.

*Dennis*
Thanks for following this rather complex scenario. One shop project keeps leading to others, but now all three of them should be finished up over the next week or two. I have the coming weekend to work in the shop, but the following weekend my daughter and family from Fairbanks will be down for a visit.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


great news for you , now you stay out of the shop that weekend 
and enjoy them full time ,you deserve it

Dennis


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


Thanks Dennis, we always have fun with the grandchildren, and my daughter and her husband as well. It should be a good weekend.

Take care.

Jim


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## jockmike2 (Oct 10, 2006)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


Job well done Jim.


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


Now that is quite the sled Jim. If I understand correctly, you can joint your large sheet goods on your table saw? Sounds like a good jig to have around!


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


*Mike*
Thanks, to be honest, I thought there would be a lot of problems with this panel sled solution, but it seem logical and doable. That project table top is 2×4 feet, and heavy. I built the panel sled for this purpose, but it is also usable for other things. To my surprise, the sled is robust, relatively light weight because of the aluminum runners and fence, and just 1/2 inch MDF. Somedays I think I should have been an engineer…....that's what my aptitude tests said back in high school. Oh well, so it becomes part of my hobby pursuits, that works too.

I just kept on thinking, most of the time we need a low fence. What can I buy that is dimensionally correct including angles and planar surfaces. Angle iron, or angle aluminum. I chose the latter because it is easier to work.

So, with a one sided sled, you don't need thick heavy material, and the aluminum and the MDF worked fine together. No miter arms, so no slots, etc. I have to do something right after every 4 or 5 blunders in a row, otherwise I would lose interest…....(-:

Thanks, gotta meet you guys on one of my trips to Chicago…....

Jim


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


*Timbo*
You have a long memory, I know that because you call things to my attention that were in my blog a couple months or more earlier.

I have a long memory. Somewhere in my memory, I remember you tearing down your crosscut sled, and planning to make a one sided sled, like this one, but I don't remember whether the fence was front or back.

To be honest, because of your comment, I kept this in the back of my mind, and thought about it as a solution to my jointing issue with the table. Thank you Tim, you were the inspiration for this one.

Let me tell you, for crosscut this should work well, not as well perhaps as a full double runner sled, but close enough. But with this selection of materials you can joint fairly large objects, with no problem. A smaller plywood model could have slots and miter arms. I was really impressed that it worked that well. I haven't seen the aluminum angle fence before, or the projecting front slide to get full engagement in the miter track before the cut. But otherwise, it is a compilation of various things I have read.

So thanks again buddy, you put this one in my brain…......

Jim


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


............and *Timbo*, there are jointing fences described for TS's in many places. But the sled design gives you two constraints instead of one. Meaning, with a standard jointer, the fence is the constraint with the cutter at the right angle to it. With the sled design, the surface of the sled is a constraint at right angles to the cutter(saw blade), and the fence is another constraint at right angles to the cutter(saw blade). This makes for a three dimensional jointer, not a two dimensional. Jointers are only for getting one surface perpendicular to another. The sled design gives you all three dimensions for our usual three dimensional objects. There are limits, all right angles, blade height, fence height limitations for complex objects, but for 90 percent of our project angles, this works.

The final limitation of the sled is the length of the slide. You can't joint a 6 foot object well with a sled, but you can with a jointer.

But, there are a lot of good things about sleds….............

Jim


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


Wow, wow, wow. What a sled! Sorry, been kind of busy to keep up. Saw this post a few days ago, finally got around to reading it…

I gotta know about your aluminum / hardboard sandwich slides. How about blessing us with some details on that arrangement?


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


I heard there was an earthquake up your way and the first thing I though of was; Jim dropped this behemoth….. 

Seriously I trust everything is ok, the news said no damage.

Any chance you can make a video?....of the sled in action.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


*dbHost*
I used these same slides on my SuperSled. Here is a closeup of the slide on my SuperSled.










*Recipe for Aluminum and Hardboard Sandwich*

*Rationale:*

This slide is made from readily purchased ingredients, cheaply. That's why I like it. The hardboard just adds thickness to the aluminum to place the slide deeper into the miter slot.

*Ingredients:* (All items purchased at Lowe's)

Aluminum bar, 3/4 inch x 1/8 inch x 4 feet (may need some clean up with mineral spirits and fine steel wool)

Hardboard (one side smooth, other rough) cut a strip 11/16 inch x 1/8 inch x 4 feet (1/16 inch narrower, and when centered, recessed 1/32 inch from the aluminum on each side)

Flathead screws or flathead bolts and nuts.

Cyanoacrylic glue
Titebond III glue

*Preparation:*

Lay hardboard rough side up on bench. Run a bead of Cyanoacrylic glue the whole length starting 1/4 inch before one end and ending 1/4 inch from the other. Do not not put too much glue on or you will find yourself glued to the slide while centering it.

Place the aluminum bar on the strip of hardboard centered accurately end for end, and approximately side to side. Flip the sandwich over immediately and adjust the position of the hardboard to be centered over the aluminum side to side by feel between fingers and thumb along its length.

Then apply pressure for a few minutes to the hardboard with a rigid piece of lumber and clamps, bunch of clamps,or some weight.(I use a fence reject from my SuperSled that is thick and rigid, and a couple of clamps)

Then drill holes, probably about every 6 to 8 inches and countersink the holes so that the screws don't protrude.

Then glue the strip with Titebond III or other, to your jig, and place screws, which will work to clamp it.

*Adjustment:*

Because drilling the holes and countersinking them will distort the aluminum, you will probably have to use a fine file with no handle on it to file the aluminum a bit to fit your miter slot, but it will then be a close fit.

Jim
Master Sandwich Chef


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


*Timbo*
First, earthquakes of that magnitude are a game in this house, with my wife usually the winner. We try to guess the magnitude. I guessed 4.7, Sherie guessed 5.3, it was 5.0, so we tied. The implication is that earthquakes are common here, and they are. When the first little tremor came, Sherie and I were drinking coffee I think, she said, 'that was just the preshock', and of course in a couple of seconds the main quake came. We have gotten pretty good at guessing…........(-: A magnitude 5 earthquake here is of no account.

Re the video…......do you know what you are really asking? I don't even have a video camera. It would be my first video. It would be terrible…........(-:

If I get some time this weekend I'll look into it, but don't hold your breath….......(-:

Jim


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


Jim,

That detail on the runners was really GOOD! Those runners will probably NEVER wear out or get sticky! 

COOL… I gotta try that!!


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


*Joe*
Thanks. This does work pretty good.

*Attaching Slides to a Two Runner Sled*
If you are making a two runner sled, then prop the slides in the miter slots with some washers or other to just clear the top of the miter slot. Then put some cyanoacrylic glue instead of slow drying glue on the slides and carefully place your sled on top of the slides oriented so that the slides, which you would have precut to proper dimension, are in the right place on the sled, and put some weight on the sled for a few minutes. Then place your screws for a more permanent hold. That is a trick from LJ Niki, who is deceased.

Again, you may find that you have to do a little filing. If the slides get a little loose, you can punch the sides with a nail punch or prick punch and that will raise metal enough to tighten it up.

Have a good one, JOE….......

Alaska Jim


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


Thank you Jim.

Yes, Niki did that… I remember… He was SO good…

BTW, we had a lil 5.4 yesterday… I didn't even feel it!!
I was in the shop & listening to the radio found out we had one!
... went into the house… the chandelier was swinging just a little bit.
Wife didn't feel it either…
That is GOOD!


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


We get a lot of earthquakes here. But I lived in Taiwan for 2 years, and they had even more. Chandeliers were always swinging it seemed.

Keep 'em down around 5, Joe, don't need any big ones.

Jim


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

jbertelson said:


> *Sledding on the 4th of July........is this a Jig, or an Antic?*
> 
> This is a long convoluted story from the project side, but pretty straight forward as a blog.
> 
> ...


*Hi Jim,*
I'm sorry I missed this one earlier, but going back and forth to the cabin it slipped by I guess.

We haven't been bringing Barb's laptop up there this year, because the connection is so slow. We're lucky to get 26kb, mostly 12kb, so it gets frustrating. It's much more enjoyable without it.

*Your sled looks pretty nice. It must have had some use by now.*


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

*I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*

*I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*

I have come to a point where I am finishing off a number of shop fixtures. I was thinking I was like Tolkien with his Lord of the Rings Trilogy…....I have read them all…...and then realized I had a quad…......

What a disappointment…...all the famous hip and iconic people, (maybe that's the problem, I am not hip or iconic), do…..... *TRIOLGIES*............... Rats.

I even tried to find the word…*quadigy*. People use the word for things, but it isn't a real word, I think. But folks seem to think it ought to be a word, because it crops up on searches.

Therefore…....I have a *QUADIGY*

This is a part of a long saga of *intertwined*, *off beat* shop projects that I am about to complete. The only one left of this quadigy is a super sled, which is more mainstream and just waiting for its miter arms. Completed are the panel sled with its oak trimming (Oak Trimming?......for you neophytes to LJ's, thats what LJ's do), the dust collector gizmo, and the project table top. All of them are kinda unique and have been used some in an unfinished state (you are thinking that there is nothing really unique anymore, but you have forgotten how nerdy, and off the wall, this old senile Alaskan really is).

But this blog is about….......the gizmo. It is done done done. I know what it does, but I really don't know what it is!

So here it is:










Kinda like hydra with multiple inputs…...errr…....exputs…......well really…...hmmmm.

........it sucks a lot…......that's its job….......if it were my job…...yup…..thankfully it is not my job.

So come on, we need a name. It is fed….or drained…..again, this is difficult…by a…..

*4 inch dust collector branch tube at the back. A blast gate is installed there.*

Why the blast gate? So I can close it off without going all the way to where ever it is hooked up. That way I can quickly turn to another tool that has a nearby blast gate, open it up and use it briefly, close it, then come back to where I was and open the blast gate on the gizmo again, and start sanding, drilling, whatever again.

There are four bullet catches on this thing. They can be pushed back down with some pressure from the acrylic covers, and they pop into an appropriately located hole, so as to firmly hold the cover. With enuf pressure from the cover, they will move out of the way and the cover can be closed again. There are finger holes in each of the covers.

*You open and close these covers with a quick forceful snapping action.* I like bullet catches, and I have used them in many objects over the years.

This thing slurps a lot of sawdust. The top, front, and both sides have….(no, LJ's, not orifices).......ports…..that sounds good. Each of the ports has an acrylic cover that covers the port when not in use. The acrylic cover has a hole for a bullet catch so that in the case of sides, the cover will be held by the catch while you are attaching a hose. The top one actually has the bullet catch situated to keep it closed, because gravity is not a factor. *At the front there is a slot…..(no…..not a trough)....also with a cover that can be pushed up and is held by the bullet catch.*










*It is feasible to use two of the ports at a time with the flow from my DC.*

Here is a detail of the inside illustrating a port. You can see a 3/4" piece of plywood, with an offset circle cut in it so that one side, in this case the bottom, is open. Meaning you can cut this with a band saw like I did. Then, only the closed side opposite the open side is nailed and glued in place. The circle is cut exactly the same size as the narrowest portion of the tapering hose connector. The the connector can cause the unglued part of the plywood to spred slightly, giving a very tight spring action fit.










This is a very quick and easy way to make ports that exactly fit tapering hose connectors with a tight spring action. You can use a piece of scrap 3/4 inch plywood, and cut it with whatever works for you….scroll saw, jig saw, or band saw.

Now, just for novelty, *this gizmo will take an aluminum and MDF slide*, inserted in the bottom of the gizmo…....
*.......so that it can be moved smoothly along, to follow what you are doing.* Here it is on my new project table top ready to slide along, as you create sawdust, with some tool or another, on the board clamped in front of it.










The slide is clamped to the table. the gizmo runs over the slide without touching the table, so it is smooth. And the gizmo has flanges which grasp the slide so that it will not tip or come off.

Anyway, I know what you are all thinking….*over engineered….is that a compliment or not?* Time to lay down the glove and tell me where you stand.

OK, OK, OK. Back to the business of explaining why in h… I made this abomination, that looks like it has been transplanted from some Greek mythologic horror story…..with the gizmo being one of the monsters.

I was making this project table top…....one of the *quadigy*.....also now completed, and I was having MDF dust flying everywhere as I routed slots, all the way through the MDF, meaning sawdust could exit out the top and the bottom, and hence was making a real mess. I found I was hooking up hoses, and trying to clamp them in place, usually in an unsatisfactory fashion, partly because the router and the drill were on the move and quickly got out of range of the dust port. Hence, I invented this gizmo, with options for one or more smaller hoses, or just a slot opened in front to place near the workpiece.

So there you have it. A device to facilitate dust collection from drills, sanders, routers, circular saws, etc. This gizmo can be clamped near to the action, or if the action keeps moving, moved along a slide without having to reclamp it in a new position.

*We need both a descriptive name….....and of course….....Neil will demand that it have a pet name*.....you know, a name like Norton, the shop mascot, the fancy sanding block has.

So what would be a good descriptive name, that lets you know what we are talking about? And then to individualize it, give it personality, something I can talk to when I have a lonely day, what would be a good pet name?

Thanks for viewing

Alaska Jim


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


Cool very well done 
Jims deduster


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*a1Jim*
Thanks Jim

*DeDuster*........hmmmm, that is a good one….......


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


hello Jim 
first : realy great to see you posting again and in the best performens ever 
that vacation has been realy good to you

second : all I can come up with is from my days in the trucks trugh europe
and its a part in the compressor/breaking system that destribuate the compress air
out to the diffrent parts that needed the air the name of that part is (direcly translated from Danish)
four way valve and I realy think thats what you have made here just with a decompression/suction system….LOL

third: a name Hmmmm…........there you got me sorry

have a great day Jim

take care
Dennis


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


I think we should call him *Gort* because there is no limit to what he can do.

Reference the 1951 movie "The Day The Earth Stood Still"-

Klaatu: I'm worried about Gort. I'm afraid of what he might do if anything should happen to me.
Helen: Gort? But he's a robot. Without you, what could he do?
Klaatu: There's no limit to what he could do. He could destroy the Earth.

Nice dust collector, Jim!

Lew


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*Dennis*
.
.

*Decompression/Suction System*

I think that is tooooooooooo…......descriptive. We could name him DECOM, or some such thing…..(-:

You are in the running, but a1Jim is in the lead with DeDuster.

Thanks for coming by Dennis…....(-:

Be sure to check out my next blog in a row today….......

Jim


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*Hi Jim!*
It looks like some sort of manifold to me, so the only name I could think of is a little lengthy.

*The HANDY DANDY DUST MANIFOLD.*

It took me all of about two minutes to dream up that name.

If I wasn't so busy, <O}$ maybe I could think of something better.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


I will do that Jim 
and Gess you are right since decom is a little too close to DEFCOM…..LOL

Dennis


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


I think it should be called Alaska Jim's Super Duper Dust Collection Manifold Thingamajig…


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


I am speechless Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*Lew*
That is funny, because I have already used that name to describe my new computer, the case is brushed aluminum, and it is quite capable, to say the least. I saw the original when young in the theater, and I have seen the new version as well.

My project table top blog, just done, is of more import to the functioning of the shop, a real winner. Be sure to take a look….....

http://lumberjocks.com/jbertelson/blog/18854

Thanks for viewing Lew…........

Jim


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## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


Well I believe dustbuster is already in use. We could call it the "Soil Foil" but soil gives more the impression of earth. The "Grain Drain" might be more suiting since we are talking about small particles or granules. If this was used in more murky situations, the "Muck Suck" would be a good one. Since it is a four way device, we could call it the "Quad Pod." Brief and to the point you are looking for I know. After all, we do not call a Coke "a fizzing beverage that can make you belch a lot"

Nice contraption Jim. I hope the devices are as much fun to create as they are to admire.

David


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


Jim..!

"SNORK"

??


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*Dick*

Glad to hear you are just loafing Dick, watching Barb look for and dust off the next project blog in the closet…...(-:

I have really been having fun in the shop, that vacation was something I really needed. My first real project will possibly involve some carving…..I will be knocking at your door buddy, so keep alert…..(-:

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*dbhost David*

OK, you have been spending way too much time with the dictionary, and I have been spending too much time with MDF and plywood. I am waiting to see a panorama shot of the garage sometime this winter….......nah…....you guys don't have winter (Sherie will be down in Houston next week for a quilting thing…...leaving me at home….sigh). Anyway, was looking very close at stuff to build a Thein separator yesterday, so I will be leaning on you for real info soon.

Have a good Halloween, you and LOYL…....did I abbreviate that properly?

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*Roger*
Thanks for the speechless, Roger…............(-:


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*David Craig*

I am definitely having a lot of fun building these things, but not as much fun as you are having with the planes. But I gotta do something there, just you wait…......(-:

a1Jim still has it with DeDuster….....that has a ring….......

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*Glen*
Snork is definitely in the running…........a1Jim has a slight lead with DeDuster, but I will be thinking about Snork…..good name…......

Got a father and a brother named Glen, so you have an inside path…..........)-:

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*tom1*

It is definitely a vacuum manifold, that is the best descriptive term so far. Like it. But for the pet name a1Jim is barely leading, for the moment, with DeDuster, just ahead of SNORK….........(-:


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


Dusty Porter?


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## donbee (Feb 7, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


I like *UNDUSTER *for the pet name.

I concur with *vac manifold*

Personal name? HHHMMMMmmmmmmmmmm

How about *Jim, jr?*

ddwwb


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


Jim your' DUSTSUCKER' looks like a winner. I just wish I had the energy to make something like that.


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## jockmike2 (Oct 10, 2006)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


HOW ABOUT WHATCHAMACALLIT!!


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*JJohnston, David Craig, Don, Mike*
Dusty Porter is definitely original, but I still give the nod to a1Jim's DeDuster, with SNORK still in contention. David Craig, you had a bunch, but only Muck Suck rolls off my tongue right. But it is a contender along with SNORK. Mike's DustSucker is also pretty good. Don's UnDuster is appropriate, by DeDuster has a better ring to it.

So now I have bunch of possibilities. I thought of DustBunny, but we have an LJ by that name, and I decided it didn't want any confusion. DustBuggar or DustBuddy seemed OK to me, but I think I like DeDuster better. I will wait till tomorrow to make a choice.

Vacuum Manifold still seems like a good descriptive name….......

Jim


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


How about 'DustDefender' Jim? Is there a prize for the winning name?


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*Mike*
DustDefender sounds like a marketing name….......(-: 
But it is the purpose of the machine.

10 Attaboys for the best name…........(-:


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*All*
OK, seems like all the entries are in. I will call it a vacuum manifold, sounds like the old steam engine days, or older auto mechanic stuff, and TADAH…...

I will name it DeDuster. It is personal, a nice play on words, short, and kinda rolls off the tongue.

*TEN ATTABOYS FOR A1JIM FOR DEDUSTER*, the name for my new vacuum manifold.

Thanks everyone….........

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*All*
Tom1 gets credit for the best short description of my dustcollector thigamabob….......

Vacuum Manifold

*TEN ATTABOYS FOR TOM1 FOR VACUUM MANIFOLD*

Thanks everyone,

Jim


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


I'm so honored


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


a1Jim, thanks again for helping name the crazy beast…..........(-:


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


Heck, I never win anything, but I'm glad we got a worthy winner in J!m A1. Congrats Jim, and try not to spend all of your attaboys in one place.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


)
great Jim one step closer to real projects being posted…LOL
even thow you know what I mean about your shopprojects

have a great day
Dennis


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


You are going to have to explain just HOW that thing works… I just can't seem to picture it…


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


1) I can't believe this one passed me by;

2) I'm with David. I'm awed by the creativity, impressed with the engineering, and simply baffled by its raison d'etre.

It's a WHAT, now ???

Never mind that. I want one.

That much, I DO know


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*Neil and David*
The only purpose of this device is to conveniently direct the airflow, from a 4 inch hose connected to the DC system, through the front slot, or one of the smaller holes that fit a 2.25 inch OD hose (I use some shorter pieces of high quality hose from Sears)

First lets forget the slide mechanism, because it only allows you to move DeDuster in a straight line manually without multiple clamping and unclamping sequences to move it along the scene of action. The runner boards on DeDuster itself allow easy clamping anywhere…....I find that 4 inch hose has a mind of its own and will not allow you to place it accurately without some kind of fixation.

DeDuster:
1) is usually used without the slide

2) is a closed box with all ports closed, and of no use in this configuration of course

3) can be easily clamped in place with the two runner boards on the bottom, when not using the slide

4) has a blast gate at the back to allow convenient DC turn off when alternating between it, and one of the big saws, for instance

5) has 3 hose ports, and a front slot, all of which are opened or closed with acrylic covers which have finger holes in them, and are held in place by gravity in one position, and a bullet catch in the other.

6) The front slot is the most useful, situated close to the surface on which it is clamped, and allowing the air to pass through about 7.5 square inches of space, whereas the incoming hose with its 3.5 inside diameter has 9.6 square inches of space…..in other words, close to the same. This gives a fairly wide fast flow across the surface of a workpiece where you are creating sawdust with a tool, such as drills, routers, planes, sanders, etc.

7) You can have more than one port in use, perhaps with two hoses for instance, when doing through routing on a piece.

Another way to look at it…....it is just a easily clamped end piece tp attach to a 4 inch DC hose. It is heavy enough to not always have to be clamped in place.

The mechnical points of interest:

The ports have spring action connections inside, made from plywood with the bandsaw. Note the picture above. The key is to fix only the side opposite the open part, using glue and nails or screws. Cheap and extremely effective. I think this is an original construction idea.

The acrylic covers are snapped back and forth with fingers in the finger holes, and bullet catches creating the friction. Work very well, with a firm action.

Hope the rehash helps explain this crazy creation from the old senile Alaskan….......(-:


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


Oh, CRAP !

[light bulb]

So … "getting it" hasn't changed the fact that I want one !

Could(n't) you mount the cube on some sort of raised circle ? In other words, couldn't the cube be made to rotate, furthering the flexibility of where the hose comes in, and which port gets used ?

A threaded hole in one (or more) side(s) and a thumbscrew would be all it took to lock it down.

To try to clarify …. if you used a (say) 3/4" ply base, and routered OUT a groove that defined a 1/4" HIGH raised circle ….

"Manifold" IS the perfect word. Somebody hit THAT one out of the park !

In shorthand, I might refer to it as M3 (manifold, cubed).

I'm actually curious what-if anything (not presuming)-effect this thing has on static pressures/airflow. But … if your actual uses for it don't necessitate HIGH CFM, then … who cares ?

Like the bullet catch things, too. A rather unique approach, and-doubtless-very effective in this application.

Do me a favor, huh ? Buy a couple of smoke sticks, and take some video of the actual airflow of this thing (LOL !).

Since you're a flight-sim guy, and all-around genius … I'm wondering … whether-by judicious application of the estimable power of that 50-760, and deft manipulation of the respective gates-you think you can have ANY non-trivial impact on the seasonal changes in the axial declination of the Earth.

Don't answer hastily. It may BE all up to you-if not now, then … at some point ;-)

Nice !


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


It seems to me Jim that your ingenious dust cube could be made out of plastic and sold world wide. Wouldn't that be a hoot?


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*Neil*
I'll leave the planet dynamics to Atlas!

Yes, a turnstile could be placed under it, but gees…....I mean…...this thing is overkill already….....wouldn't want anyone to die in a laughing spasm…...............(-:

Re pressures, flow etc. Seems to me, without looking it up, that the larger the space that air flows in, the less friction. That box is markedly larger in cross section than the 3.5 inch outfeed to the DC. I suspect that the friction from the box is negligible compared to ductwork, partly because the air will slow down in the box somewhat, although I am sure there are regional speed zones from, say, the slot to the outfeed. I use a "manifold" box on my drill press to split the suction into two feeds, one above table, one below. Better hold onto your watch while your drilling with that setup, I have had it try to suck up workpieces…...........I swear…......it's the truth…...........(-:

.............even have to put a tether on the Fortsners in case I forget to turn off the DC while changing bits….......

.................................I have a bridge to sell you if you believe the last item….......but it actually has picked up workpieces….......

Ain't woodworking fun?

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


*Mike*

Maybe could name it the iDust or something similarly silly….........(-:

Actually the only unique thing is that plywood spring mechanism for attaching hoses. It works great, and uses scap 3/4 inch plywood. Crank one out in a hurry with the scroll saw or toy bandsaw….............

I had good intentions about your bucket project, but between vacation, and an overdose of work…......no way. Just trying to battle through the current couple of shop projects. Then gotta get a new bandsaw….......

You know we could decorate the DeDuster with Norwegian designs and call it the DustTroll….........(-:

Jim


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *I designed, built it, use it..........but WHAT IS IT?*
> 
> *I designed, built it, use it, like it….......but what is it??*
> 
> ...


I like that name Jim. I am still struggling with splitting the willow banding for the bucket. I will feel like Nelson at the Nile when I have finally triumphed over this 'glitch'. I've learned how to make the locking joint, but too late as I have now run out of willow branches and we've got about 5" of snow. It doesn't really worry me much though, as unlike yourself, I am pretty lazy, so it can wait.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

*Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*

Now tell me why did I build this thing?

*It should be made of rosewood, and inlayed with ivory and ebony, considering the amount of time I have spent, and the grief it has caused, and sawdust it has generated.*

I have been at this thing off and on for months. I originally naively started this thing so I could better control routing slots in the oak miter arms I was trying to make for my super sled.

After getting well on my way, I of course found a neat article on how to do the slots on the router table, in a twinkle, yet.

*........IN A TWINKLE!*

Dahhhhhhh.

(pardon me while I gnash my teeth, and self-flagellate for the umpteenth time)

Moral of the story, a little research of the literature can save you about 7000 curse words…......

(I have outstripped my vocabulary of unprintable, politically uncorrect, and blasphemous exclamations, and let me tell you, we physicians have large vocabularies, and a proportionately oversized group of epithets to add emphasis to our erudite, and sometimes not so erudite, commentary)

A little research can also save you about a hundred hours of work, with the most dastardly manufactured construction material ever invented, surely by the devil himself…........MDF. Another name for this thing would be the MDF MONOLITH…..here it is sitting on one of the project tables, for an overview…........










*MDF….....damned MDF*.

I swear even my toothbrush and dental floss, let alone my comb, and my Jockey briefs, have been clogged and corrupted by the odious silt generated from this stuff, rising with the slightest touch, in noxious clouds, to cover everything in the shop.

*I will forever remember routing that stuff…......*

..... with earprotectors, a face shield, and a mouth mask…..sweat running down my face, *making little rivelets in the MDF mud coating me*.....peering through the corrosive plumes of desert sand-like stuff, trying to get a glimpse of my lines, to see if I had yet another time, gone astray.

I saved these masochistic episodes for times when I felt particularly guilty about some moral deviation, having found this to be the supreme self-punishment [no, I am not going to confess about my deviant behaviour…......(-: ]

I also made my dust collecting gizmo along the way, as a result of being…..

*.........covered with (it must be made of finely ground camel dung) the effluent that it vengefully spit at me as I tried to coax it into something of value.*

You would think the stuff would at least be light weight, but oh no. I am sure the EPA will some day tell us we can no longer use MDF because it is primarily composed of lead, or depleted uranium.

*And then when you try to finish it, you would swear the finish when applied to the top…....falls straight through it and ends up on the floor. They should make sponges of this stuff.*

All right. Thanks LJ's, for allowing me to vent a little, I needed that.

*OK, to tell the truth, this project table top is a very useful item.*

I was using it constantly while I made my dust collecting gizmo. With appropriate holddowns, I used it for glueups of the box, glueups of assorted plywood appendages, and a way to firmly hold the acrylic while I filed the proper profile in the hole for the bullet catches, etc.

It is reversible, one side being smooth, and interlaced with 3/8 inch slots for holddowns and jigs. The other side has pedestals to facilitate through routing and cutting, and of course the mirror image of the slots.

The pedestal side:










It is one inch thick, composed of two layers of one half inch MDF. The top is one piece, the pedestal side is made of many pieces to reduce the amount of routing, and allow the vertical face of the pedestals to actually be glued to the top piece and entrapped by other pieces, all for strength. The pedestals also bridge some of the long slots for strength. The pedestals themselves have a long slot running the whole length.

It has been finished with the ubiquitous Dark Walnut (can't get Black Walnut anymore) *WATCO. Never looks dirty….....because it looks like it is made of dirt.* The finish has no dimensions, so it doesn't screw up mechanical constructions, and it can be recoated easily at any time.










This reversible top fits in one of my old project tables, whose tops are just dropped in, held by cleats, but not fastened on. But I will make a whole new base for this thing, partly because it is fairly heavy, but also it will be made to store most of my clamps.










So you see it in a temporary home, with a few examples of simple holding situations, but it will soon have a new much more robust base.

*Needless to say, I can dream up a myriad of attachments and gizmos for this item.*

Most of them won't be useful, but they will be fun to make…............(-:

Here is the other side in mockup use, ideal for through routing and cutting:










I have also been wondering if this might be used with a plunge saw, I really need a better setup to cut large sheets of MDF and plywood into manageable pieces. Of course I have a large panel sled, and will blog on it since it is now finished, as well. Thanks for absorbing my, at times, vindictive prose, and my amateurish photos. Have a good one…......(-:

Alaska Jim


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


Jim, I know you built this to assist with the construction of another more useful jig! Actually this does seem to be very useful for holding a workpiece. Does it have a name?


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## twokidsnosleep (Apr 5, 2010)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


Your profuse and preposterous verbiage is astutely appropriate…..owww my brain hurts, I must not be a real doctor.
Your clamping table looks great.
I almost hate to ask this, but why MDF? The stuff is weak, leaches out formaldehyde and the dust is dangerous to inhale. Plywood might have been a bit safer? 
Funny you made your "Dusty" with ply and I made my "Sandy" with MDF ….the first and last time I will buy it.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


DOOH !!!

very niice Jiiiiigii thing Jim
congrat´s with the finished piece….....ups this is one of those that will never get finish
only develope and bee a mature gizmo when you learn to knew it …but that will take 20 years
just like your children it has to come thrugh the teen years…LOL

Dennis


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


*Timbo*

It does not have a name. I realized after I designed it and started building it, that some of the ideas came from Bricofleur's rout through jig:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/23200

But of course, this thing really has little resemblance to it, especially since the reverse side is smooth, and is likely to be used more. I can't even dream what to call it at this time. It is a project table (top) with a lot of slots, and some pedestals. I am at a loss.

You know, bench dogs, and vises, have some of the same functions, so it is really a small work bench. I have ordered a set of MCLS angle vises to sit on top of it, and I plan to make a bunch of accessories, long and short fences, high fences for working on the edge of things, etc. It needs a very stable base, which I will make in the near term. Then I will make it hold all my clamps, loading it down with those should make it very heavy and stable. I have a new and novel wheel system designed in my mind for it, so it can be mobile. Not talking more about that until I try it.

I'll keep you informed as a move along. I am not recommending anybody else build this, it will work for me, but there has got to be easier ways to get the same function.

Jim


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


*Nice jig Jim!*

That is some awful dust making stuff.

If you don't like finishing the MDF, You should try the 2-Sided White Melamine coated MDF, then you'll only have to finish the edges. It may remind you too much of the clinic though.

It only costs a few dollars more.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


WOW!!

This has got to be the epitome (pronounce ep-i-tome) for clamping jigs!!

The only question I have is- What kind of bolts are you using with your hold downs? I tried to make a tapering jig, using MDF, and made sort of a "T" slot for carriage bolts. The head were recessed into a wide dado and the square collar rode in a tight fitting, through slot centered in the dado- if that makes sense. Anyway, after a few months of tightening/loosening the hold downs, the through slot was chewed up so much the bolts just spun when I tried tightening them. Had to replace the MDF with plywood. So far so good.

BTW, does Sherie have to help you move this around ;^)

Lew


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


*Scott*

Well put and I agree with everything you said. I have yet to find a good plywood source here in Anchorage…....the Chinese stuff in Lowes and HD does not deserve the name. Hence the MDF. But that is the last time. I will find a good source locally and mortgage my soul for an account. Does "finely ground camel dung" agree with your assessment of MDF?

Now I remember you from the "Dusty" conversations.

.......re the verbiage….....how have I put this before….....it is the psuedo 19th century novelists and poets style, I like to emulate some of those old writers at times. I recently read Jules Vernes, 20,000 Leagues under the Sea. Of course in the translation, you get the drift. I used to carry some leather bound copies of Edgar Allen Poe's works, in India Manila paper to grade school with me. We were quite poor, but somehow my Dad got these as a gift from his first wife who died a tragic early death from meningitis. Her Dad was a doctor, now I remember…..(-:..........true though. My parents lost everything in the depression.

Trust me, the verbiage is strictly in humor, and not my normal conversational tone, but you have to admit, it does set me apart…............(-:

Oh well, thanks for stopping by. No more MDF.

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


*Dick*
Thanks for the advice. I will tuck it in my brain to be used wisely in the future…..just got to remember to untuck it…...(-:

Like I said to Scott, I think this is the last time. I have read of LJ's that have banned MDF from their shop. Maybe that's a good idea.

Did you get one last look at Mt McKinley over the ore dump before the sun got too low?...........(-:

33 deg here at 1500 hrs. No snow yet, fairly common, with the maritime climate.

Hope you and Barb are having a good fall. Seems to me, snow will not be there until November. I remember a Halloween snow when I was a kid, but it was an oddity and melted away, you would have been beyond trick and treating, so the memory would not be as strong. Strange the memories from over 50 years ago….........

Jim


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## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


Nice table Jim. Seems even nicer than the Kreg tables for their pocket hole jigs. Some nice stops and it would make a good planing table.

By the way, be careful with the self flagellation, that can make you go blind.

David


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


*Lew*
Hey Lew, hows things goin'. Like those trays, and I bet the recipients will too.

No T-slots, only through routes in one inch of MDF. I think that will hold. I have been reluctant to put T-slots even in plywood, for just that issue. I have the router bits, just have never used them. I would put them in oak or some such without hesitation, though. So far I haven't seen any marks in the MDF from the T-bolts, but with one inch of stuff, it shouldn't make too much difference, except for problems with overused areas. With the construction of this thing and its purpose, which should be quite random locations along the slots, I don't think it will be an issue.

In my years of DIY woodworking I learned that plywood was OK, but oak was better for mechanical stuff. MDF didn't exist back then. I will keep everyone informed how it goes. So far, so good, and it has gotten some use even in an unfinished condition.

Of course, you go into production mode with those gifts, that is a different deal. Don't think I am up to that, for obvious reasons.

Have a good Halloween, Lew, best to you and yours….......

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


*David*

Actually this thing has been in use and works well. With some fences and attachments it should do even better. All of the slots are one inch deep, so hopefully the MDF will hold….I did think of that. But I don't think I will use MDF again.

Yes, stops, fences, attachments, vises….....the whole enchilada….........

I am having dreams about frogs…shavings…smooth surfaces…screws….....

Your plane blog has me…....entranced….....(-: It was really interesting to look at the innards of that Stanley Bailey No.4 after your comments, especially about the frog. A real eye opener. Good stuff, David.

For a fun time, I will start tuning that 40 year old beast up (for the uninitiated, I bought it new)........I will blog the whole thing.

Flagellation was a term introduced to me in high school biology…......where did you learn about it…...?..........(-:

Thanks for your great comments again, David, thanks for stopping by…....

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


*Dennis*
Lost you in the shuffle there, yup, I will learn new ways to use it over time. But my kids…....well…..can't say they are particulary useful…...mostly money sinks…....(-:

But they are amusing. Spent over an hour yesterday with my oldest daughter and her family on Skype, she lives in Chicago. 3 year old twins and a five year old. Talked to the kids awhile, then with Gianfranco at length, that's her husband, and of course Bonnie, my daughter, for a very long time….........lots of fun. One year from now we, meaning Sherie and I, Sherie's mother, Mychelle, my stepdaughter, and all my four children and grandkids, twenty people in all, will be going on a Disney ship cruise, celebrating my 70th birthday. That will be a riot.

Fortunately I have good kids, so it will truly be nice, and I know not everyone is that fortunate. You really don't have control over who your kids really end up being.

So have a good one, hope the business goes well, and the house holds up….......

Take care,

Jim


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## twokidsnosleep (Apr 5, 2010)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


No disrespect meant Jim, I was just fooling around
I was trying to talk like the Mayor from the cartoon Night Before Christmas.
Look at 1:17 into this clip…he's the verbose man





I didn't realize the plywood issue was that bad, probably as I recycle more than buy new and live in BC who still produces lots of ply, I think. 
If we keep destroying industries locally and let them go to the Far East we will be toast.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


I just love your description of MDF.. I loathe the stuff myself, and use it very rarely… You again remind me of why…


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


Hi Jim, I think you will never regret having made this table. It looks extremely useful and nicely done. Your approach in getting set-up in your shop before doing real wood projects is smart ( if you don't go too far with it) as you will now have the basis to do some well controlled and very accurate work. Every material has it advantages and disadvantages. from experience, I try not to rout MDF except on my router table where I have reasonable dust control. I know that wouldn't have been possible with your project table.

You might be able to find quality birch plywood at a cabinet maker's shop. These people are after all woodworkers and tend to be friendly and helpful. I suggest you ask around. They usually have other things they might be willing to get for you. It's usually no problem for them to also include stuff for you when they order or often they have enough in stock. They also usually have nice big drum sander which most will let you use for a small fee. I have a shop like this near me, and they are really nice and helpful.


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## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


Jim,

Actually, flagellation I read about when I was in the neighborhood of 8 years of age. I think my "man clock" was wound backwards. I believe I had my mid life crisis during my teen years and am now going through my adolescence. But, since I know you are the forgiving sort, I knew my bad taste of humor would be taken in perspective.

Glad the blogs on the planes have interested you. I am by no means an expert, but I thought some of the small discoveries learned through reading and experience might be helpful. I am one that always believes it is the little things that cause the most problems. Whoever wrote Don't Sweat the Small Stuff should be required to spend a thousand years in purgatory…

David


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


*tom1 and mike and dbhost*
I am planning a scouting mission here soon for sources. I suspect I will find one. I have a couple of contractors that have done either general remodeling or cabinet work for us. I may start with asking them for recommendations.

There are a few places, mdf seems to work for me. I have used it for my radial arm saw table top, and that is over a year old and shows no signs of wear or distress. I would definitely do that again. It worked for a couple of totes, and again that seems to be OK, if they are of simple design. I definitely would use it for zero clearance inserts as well.

This project table would be difficult no matter what I used. It will get much more abuse than the radial arm saw table. I do not plan to finish projects on it, that will be reserved for my old project table tops.I will report back after I have had it a while and have a chance to watch how it holds up.

I put some plasti-dip on Dusty, my benchtop portable downdraft table. I would no recommend doing that, because it does wear some, although only in areas that had poor adhesion. I am still watching that.

I suspect that this table will do OK. It would be possible to replace the pedestals with plywood, and that is the part of the table that is the most vulnerable.

Thanks for viewing, it is nice to have it done, and I look forward to making some fences, bridges (see Bricofleur's rout through jig: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/23200) and other jigs for it. He also made his jig out of MDF, using 3/4 inch. Since I couldn't find that, I used 1/2 inch but doubled up to make one inch for all bearing services. That also saved me some routing. Of course, Bricofleur's jig is quite different than mine, but then again, I think his was easier to build. My project table is kind of a cross between project tables available for purchase, and a rout through jig. My table top should be more versatile, but at a price in terms of construction difficulty.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


*David Craig*
It was a great comment, David, and you were right, I appreciated it…......(-:

I am going to follow your plane blog closely, a may fiddle around with that old plane as kind of a treat for odd moments of time, especially when getting home on a workday, etc. It is not currently usable except for rough work, so I will have to buy another one, or fix it up. I will try to fix it before I need to use a plane.

I have some questions already, but I will wait until I read a little more, and have more time. Had to get these two shop projects documented on up on LJ's.


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


*Hi Jim!*

I just happened to see this ad in the latest Menards flyer.

I see were they make this type of panel in different colors now.

I just thought you may be interested.

*Otherwise, just a conversation piece.*

*FYI:* now 46 degrees with a high of 51, cloudy, can't see your mountain today.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


*Dick*
I will keep my eyes open for that type of thing, they might have them here at HD, Lowe's, or others. That might be useful for a few things.

It is 35 deg at 0723 here in Anchorage. I think the mountain is down for the winter…......(-:

.......off to work….....

Jim


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## Bricofleur (Aug 28, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


Hi Jim,

And you're absolutely right, one's ideas are the seeds for new ones, if nurtured as you did, of course. Since yours is quite interesting, I saved pictures of it, for future reference or needs. I like it very much. It gives more options and opportunities. Great job and well thoughts.

Best,

Serge


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


*Serge*
Thanks for stopping by, and thanks for the inspiration. I didn't even realize it until I had it part way built and said to myself…...where did I get that pedestal idea from, then I remembered. Of course it is a quite different design, and has a more general purpose, but still the idea came from your rout through jig.

It is nice to have done, and it will be even nicer when the odor of WATCO leaves the shop….....(-:
Now I have to make the attachments, jigs, etc. But those should be easy.

Jim


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## ShopTinker (Oct 27, 2010)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


I really appreciate a clever jig. I've thoroughly enjoyed your description of your joy in building this project. I've been there! I've come up to the kitchen for a break and said to my wife. Tell me again why I am doing this. She says "because you enjoy it". I say "Right, I enjoy this. I enjoy this. I enjoy this." I'll really enjoy the part where it is over.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


*ShopTinker*
Nice to have you aboard, I think you will enjoy the action here….........which doesn't always involve tools and wood…..(-:

And right about finally getting it done. Now I am making some attachments for it, including fences, bridges for the pedestals, etc. This part is mostly fun, using scrap plywood for the most part. Hopefully will finish my supersled miter arms over the weekend, although I am on call, and that is totally unpredictable. My supersled is in action, sans miter arms, and because it has T-track in it, it can hold pieces safely, including angled pieces and small pieces. That makes it useful for jig construction. I will post the super-sled again once it is finished. Also have a large panel sled that is done.

So have a good one…....I am home alone for the next 10 days, so chores are calling…......

Jim


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


Be careful not to leave any wood chips in any call out patients you might get Jim! Have a good weekend.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


You know how there are movies and books that-the more you watch them, the more detail you pick up ?

Every time I look at this … this … this THING of yours, Dr. Bertelson, I find new ways to use it, and-accordingly-new ways to like it.

Right off the bat, it would be a few inexpensive pieces of hardware away from what I so desperately needed to avoid going astray, on my plunge-router-attempted dados !

But the thing has sort of unlimited applications, now doesn't it ??

Incidentally, after the Trend or Triton air systems … you just move right to SCUBA gear-what I'D do before I attempted to breech the exterior of Emm Dee Eff ;-)


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


I was always told that cursing was a weak mind trying to forcefully express itself. Boy was I taught wrong! All that cursing and not one bad word. I am amazed. Way to go Jim. lol The next time you mess with mdf, may I record the conversation? Rand

opps I had a senior moment….Nice clamping thing-a -mu-jigy. Thanks for suffering through all that sand/dust for us.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


*Rand*
Thanks for commenting on my "clamping thing-a-mu-jigy", it is constantly in use…........and I did suffer….......weep for me…..........(-:


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## JerryBerry (Jan 11, 2011)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


That thing is a beast! BUT, it looks like it would work like a charm! Great Job!


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Project Table Top........misconceived, but it is a gem.........no birth defects....(-:*
> 
> Now tell me why did I build this thing?
> 
> ...


*Jerry*
Thanks, it is in use as we speak, making a new table base for it. Should be posting it in 1 to 2 weeks…..

Jim


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

*Making the job of being safe, very easy. Contractors Saw Original Guard Mod.*

I realized after I did this, that Martin has reduced the size of the width of photo you can use, so the photo isn't centered, but you can see everything.

Yesterday I made a very quick modification to my original equipment Delta Contractor Saw guard. All the parts were in the shop, serendipitously, so *it took me less than 30 minutes.*

I had placed a wing nut on the back bolt for the splitter nearly a year ago. But this time, I actually modified the mount so that there are *no nuts or bolts that are loose when I take the mount off.*

Here are the parts I used, with a ruler for perspective:









*Now I can put the guard on or off in 20 seconds.*

I put a slot in the back part of the splitter so the back bolt stays in place, on or off, and you can slide it on and then tighten what used to be a nut, now it is a plastic and brass 5/16 jig knob.

Here is a picture of the slot I cut with a hack saw. The side you put the slot on may or may not be important. But if you put the slot on the other side, if somehow, the whole thing got loose, I can visualize the wood and the guard going forward together because of kickback pressure through the pawls. The upward position of the slot makes it even less likely to move.










The front one always was a slider, but it had a bolt fitting into a purposefully sloppy nut mechanism. I put a 5/16 inch T bolt through the wrong way and tightened it, and now have a plastic and brass 5/16 jig knob there also. Any kind of bolt would work, however.


















It used to take me just under a minute to put the guard on or off, and I had a bolt and nut to replace when I put it back on, and it took a wrench to tighten the front bolt.

*Now I have it down to 20 seconds, and there are no loose parts and no tools needed. Just making sure the job of being safe is very easy.* I use both hands and tighten or loosen both knobs simultaneously.










Of course I plan to replace the whole guard system, and I have already purchased some items, although the shark guard sure is tempting. The saw dust collection needs to be addressed in the next 3 months.

*But in the meantime, I use the guard because it is easy, and it helps keep me safe.*


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Making the job of being safe, very easy. Contractors Saw Original Guard Mod.*
> 
> I realized after I did this, that Martin has reduced the size of the width of photo you can use, so the photo isn't centered, but you can see everything.
> 
> ...


Nice idea, Jim.

I like the idea of not needing a wrench to tighten down the bolt. I'll have to see if this will work on my saw. Mine's a real pain to remove/reinstall the splitter.

Lew


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Making the job of being safe, very easy. Contractors Saw Original Guard Mod.*
> 
> I realized after I did this, that Martin has reduced the size of the width of photo you can use, so the photo isn't centered, but you can see everything.
> 
> ...


That looks like it is pretty secure, nice upgrade Jim. Glad to see you found some shop time today


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Making the job of being safe, very easy. Contractors Saw Original Guard Mod.*
> 
> I realized after I did this, that Martin has reduced the size of the width of photo you can use, so the photo isn't centered, but you can see everything.
> 
> ...


*Timbo and Lew*
Actually I overdid it yesterday, about 7 hours, and I was tired at the end and had done a bunch of other physical things. Today I put in about 5 hours, and my wrists are complaining. I have surgery tomorrow. So, like I have said before, I will never be a big hand tool man. Hoping I get an update on my two sleds out today also. I have a lot of fun shop projects going on. I was thinking about making a real project for Christmas. But….....hold on to your hat, I need a real band saw for that. Don't think that will happen before Christmas.

I am going to buy one that will be my last bandsaw, so it has to be a good one. I am looking at the two Grizzly's reviewed in FWW Tools and Shops Annual Issue. I will never have great access to wood, so I suspect my choices will be limited, and I will buy in bulk, resaw, make my veneers, etc. But I am old, and my shop size is limited. So the 17 inch is tempting, but I just don't know. It will have to be mobile, and that means big stable wheels with locks. The larger, essentially 19 inch beast is just too much, I suspect. One of the things I have noted, though, if you have a monster bandsaw, you start doing ripping and all sorts of things on it. That means I wouldn't ever have to upgrade the TS, which would be a big savings. Actually, all along, I thought I could get along with this TS. Just need to fix the guard and the dust collection.

Nothing more fun than talking about planes, and bandsaws…........(-:


----------



## ShopTinker (Oct 27, 2010)

jbertelson said:


> *Making the job of being safe, very easy. Contractors Saw Original Guard Mod.*
> 
> I realized after I did this, that Martin has reduced the size of the width of photo you can use, so the photo isn't centered, but you can see everything.
> 
> ...


Great idea! I'm checking my setup to see if I can do this to my saw.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Making the job of being safe, very easy. Contractors Saw Original Guard Mod.*
> 
> I realized after I did this, that Martin has reduced the size of the width of photo you can use, so the photo isn't centered, but you can see everything.
> 
> ...


*Lew*
I know you have the Vega fence (which I love, and you have said good things also), and I kinda assumed you had the Delta Contractor Saw. If so, this mod should work, and it is super easy. Need some knobs, I used 5/16 and that fits the front bolt, and the back slot as well. I had everything in the shop, so it was a no brainer. I had the inspiration in a flash, primed by Rand's (lilredweldingrod) safety blog item. I couldn't believe it when I put that bolt in backwards on the front and put on the knob, two minutes, why didn't I do that before? I think will be OK with different blade angles etc. Now it is super easy.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Making the job of being safe, very easy. Contractors Saw Original Guard Mod.*
> 
> I realized after I did this, that Martin has reduced the size of the width of photo you can use, so the photo isn't centered, but you can see everything.
> 
> ...


*Hey Dan, nice to hear from you again*
I noticed in your buddies list you had John Nixon, and I am about to blog an update to my super sled, which is really his design….........at least I will blog it if I ever get off of this post…............(-:


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Making the job of being safe, very easy. Contractors Saw Original Guard Mod.*
> 
> I realized after I did this, that Martin has reduced the size of the width of photo you can use, so the photo isn't centered, but you can see everything.
> 
> ...


I wish my old Ridgid would allow that upgrade. Way to go Jim. Rand


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Making the job of being safe, very easy. Contractors Saw Original Guard Mod.*
> 
> I realized after I did this, that Martin has reduced the size of the width of photo you can use, so the photo isn't centered, but you can see everything.
> 
> ...


*Rand*
Rats, oh well, use you imaginative noggin and figure out your own way to make it easy….....bet there is a way. I would not have done it except for the nudging from your post…........

Thanks buddy….........

You have made me a little safer, and my day a little brighter…........

Jim


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Making the job of being safe, very easy. Contractors Saw Original Guard Mod.*
> 
> I realized after I did this, that Martin has reduced the size of the width of photo you can use, so the photo isn't centered, but you can see everything.
> 
> ...


A really good improvement Jim. All those little conveniences add up when you are working on a project. They also encourage the use of safety devices because of the ease in remounting. Well done.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Making the job of being safe, very easy. Contractors Saw Original Guard Mod.*
> 
> I realized after I did this, that Martin has reduced the size of the width of photo you can use, so the photo isn't centered, but you can see everything.
> 
> ...


*Mike*
This was so simple, I am amazed I didn't try it earlier. Rand made a safety post, and that just triggered my brain to look again. 20 minutes later I had the new setup. This truly was quick and easy.

Jim


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

*Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*

Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.

*The new system outperforms the old one about 20 to 1, meaning there was at least 20 times the number of chips or more, with the old system. On many cuts, there are no chips left on the table, especially common with solid wood.*

This is my old system….....
.
.










.
.
Notice how far back it is. I made that about 15 years ago I think. Initially it was powered by the central household vacuum system, for the last two years it was connected to a Delta 50-760 with hose running throughout the shop to many blast gates. The problem is that chips fly all over the table, especially with thin veneered Chinese plywood. Note the white plumbing piece to redirect any flow through the guard's dust port. Very little comes through that port in crosscut. This saw is used a crosscut specialist. Also for dadoes. I may make a miter jig for it, but the TS with its Super Sled does most miters easily.
.
.

*.......so I make a new dust hood, modify the fence, change the guard, and add a "remote control" to the blast gate.*
.
.









.
.
Note it comes right up to the fence. *The holes in the fence help lower the stream of air to catch chips on the surface. They also function extremely well as a table sweep*...kind like a floor sweep….so that the few chips that are still scattered can be swept over to it with a brush or even a piece of wood. This works surprisingly well.
.
.
Here is the blade pushed back to its resting position…..*I removed the essentially useless lower guard, and blocked the dust orifice on the guard…...*
.
.








.
.
*Note the piece of dowel working as a "remote control" for the blast gate, which is now open.*
.
.

Here is the saw part way out…
.
.








.
.

The blast gate is attached with my usual *plywood spring ring*.......same as pictured here as used on my multifunction table….
.
.









.
.

...and the fence has a *ruler and stop block system as blogged here*........

Fence and Stop Block System
.
.
.

*Now I don't have to stop and clean up after every cut…......, and I just push the occasion few stray chips up to the holes in the fence.*
.
.
*Slick.*


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Sweet!!

Wish my day was going as well!


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*Lew*
Thanks for looking. This really works well.

Hope whatever is going wrong with your day improves soon. I assume it has something to do with a girl named Irene.

I am on call, so will be here sporadically.


----------



## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Looks really good. Looks like a jump saw.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Very innovative…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*David*

OK, so I looked up Jump Saw. Interesting looking beast.

The hardest part was squeezing the thing between the motor guard and blade, that took a little planning. But this thing changes the performance of the saw greatly, because a lot of time was spent managing chips…not any more. Those holes in the fence are a winner. I put them there initially just to provide more air flow near the surface, but they sure help with any minimal cleanup as well.

Today is quiet (on call). Might get another blog…my project platform, done. Or a little shop time. I hate doing shop stuff and then getting interrupted by the phone and forgetting exactly what you were doing.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*Larry*
If it ain't different, I don't want to do it….........(-:

...'cause you can never tell where I made the mistakes….........(-:


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Hey Jim. I will echo degoose's choice of words and say very innovative. I have to add that I am convinced that there is at least SOME balance in the world. While you indicate you removed the "essentially useless lower guard", I spent a few hours today revamping my 1977 Craftsman RAS with the recall retro kit, including the new blade guard that "essentially covers the entire blade" during operation. I have not yet used it so I do not know if it will remain on the saw.


----------



## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


This is the best solution to RAS dust collection I have seen.
Thanks for sharing


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*Lenny*
I am not sure why I left that guard there all of those years. It was constantly catching the fence and causing trouble without any safety benefit.

Now I am using a holding stick that seems to be working fine for many things. I made it in about 5 minutes from scrap. If it works well, I will expand on the idea and blog on it. Just a long piece of plywood a few inches wide that I cut a large rabbet in with the RAS. It has a rough bottom which holds things well.

Unfortunately, there is no retro kit for my 1970 Craftsman.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*SAS*
Thanks for viewing. Before my first dust hood, I would get sprayed all over with sawdust with every cut. After the first hood, only the table got it.

Now with this new design there is a few chips on the table occasionally, and frequently none at tall. This thing does really work. The holes in the fence undoughtedly do help as well…......


----------



## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Glad to see you got this figured out. I have my sliding miter saw still vomiting dust and chips even though I have a vac hooked up to the stock port. I have played with a few ideas, nothing seems to work well with this rig aside from a funnel type hood immedately behind it. I am planning on a dedicated rolling cart for the SCMS with fold up wings and a Big Gulp hood on a stand that I can position behind it… If that doesn't work, I am going to have to build a sled…


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


jim

this is probably the best dust hood i have seen

i will borrow it when i get more vacuum going soon

you may be the best doctor since marcus welby

he always got it right


----------



## DamnYankee (May 21, 2011)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Very innovative indeed. I will have to give it a shot.


----------



## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Really smart idea Jim. And I love your new remote control!


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*dbhost*
Managing flying chips and sawdust is important not only for health and cleanup, but the stuff gets under and between things and makes for inaccurate cuts and stuff.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*patron*

The devil is in the details, so we look for him there….but we never seem to catch him and get rid of him for forever. I am working on that….....(-:

I may modify one thing on this hood, exchange the mounting screws for some studs and perhaps wing nuts. Then I can get the hood out of the way for long dadoes. I have cut shorter ones with it there, and you can elevate the work pretty easily above the hood, so it may not be necessary. I will revisit this if I decide I have to do it. Not yet, however, I am not sure it is necessary. Because I do nearly all crosscuts on that saw, and crosscut is the vast majority of cuts made, at least by me…the RAS is the most used saw in the shop by far. So the value of the dust hood cannot be overstated….....

This hood really saves time and effort…..


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*Rob*
Note the comment to patron. Like I said there, not sure it is necessary…but I am watching as I use the saw. This has been on there about 6 weeks or so…I worked with it a lot before the report.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*Woodwrecker*
...and I have another remote control on the blast gate above it that controls the hose I use for just general vacuuming around the two big saws. The TS is still an issue, but it is in the crosshairs and partly done.

The "remote controls" are a winner, so I may have to put some Watco on them, and perhaps add one more. They are pretty handy when the blast gate is inaccessible. Around the big saws it is an issue to reach them.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


very nice, and gr8 choice of blade


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


good idea Jim even a handtool freak can see the idea of rolling out the train from its garage 

if anyone could make it for a sliding mitresaw it wuold be you ….. no I don´t chanlange you at all .. LOL

I gess this one is attashed to your fourgateblastcontrolport device too 

have a great day Jim

Dennis


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*Roger*

Biggest problem was getting air to the right of the blade. It is shoehorned into the space between the motor and the blade. Not much room there, but by keeping the plywood thin and careful measuring it fit.

For those of you that don't recognize the blade, it is a Freud Diablo DX1080. I have had that blade for a couple of years now, I think, and it makes smooth cuts with a minimum of chip that are ready to glue.

I bought that blade prior to my joining LJ's, so I didn't have the advantage LJ's gives us all.

But, with my topflight organization abilities, and my well informed and smoothly honed scientific purchasing skills, I followed strict procedure in buying the blade:

1) Go down to the local speciality industrial hardware store, about 4 minutes away.
2) Find the blades with a whole pile of teeth.
3) Buy the most expensive one.

Worked, of course…........(-:


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*Dennis, you old scoundrel you*
I don't own a sliding miter saw, thank goodness, or that would somehow be garaged as well. I thought of making a multistall garage, but the TS and RAS do not play well together, different heights and wide in the hips.

I can imagine making even fancier Carpenter's Delight remote control gizmos, so don't challenge me Dennis….I spend enough silly time in the shop as it is. Images of wooden worm drives, and spring loaded automatic openers dance in my head….........(-:

You dried out yet?


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Jim:

That is really *FANTASTIC! * What a Dust Collection HOOD!

*COOL system!*

Roub-Goldberg would be proud of you! LOL

*GOOD JOB!*


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*Joe*

First, may I hire you as a permanent addition to my marketing and cheerleading staff?.....(-:

Thanks, the big deal is how it works, and it works great!

Have a good one…..it has been a little cool the last two days, but bright blue sky with no clouds….....


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


nearly but fortunaly I had a few beers in the basement so I´m still on my feet

OOH .. do you meen the basement ….....it takes it time do to regular clouds with alot of water
just want to take the tourist guided tour over the island and of course my hourse is on that tour
and with a wife continueing moving the sandbags from the front of the basement stairs over to where 
the trenhes is made for the water to escape around the house …... I´ll think I will use bigger bags she 
can´t move 
I´ll make a blog later this evening so you can see I have made the shelfs fiting the fulding ruler 
later

have to jump down to the basement ….......to turn the mess upsite down once more

Dennis


----------



## ScottKaye (Jan 19, 2013)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Jim,
First off, I realize that you posted this 3+ years ago but it is still relevant today. I plan on building something very similar to your build, but have a question as to how you attached it to your table? I don't see any mechanical connections between the guard and the table though, you don't really show a photo of the right side of the dust hood so perhaps there is some means of attachment there? I suppose you could use a couple of small C-Clamps on each side of the hood on the cleat if there is enough room to get the c-clamp on the underside of the table. So how'd you do it? enquiring minds want to know!! Namely me!

Thanks

Scott


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## ScottKaye (Jan 19, 2013)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Jim,

As I build my dust collection system, I find myself frequently coming back to your pictures for answers. I am able to get 1 1/4" spacing between the right side of the blade and the motor housing on my RAS. It looks like you have about the same on yours. What is the width of your collection system at the fence? If I create the same spacing on the left side of the blade as I have on the right I would have a total opening width of about 2 5/8" (1 1/4" x 2 + 1/8" blade width) I'm thinking that wouldn't be wide enough to collect the spray of dust coming off the blade, though it should increase air flow speed since it will be a smaller orifice. As far as my dust collector goes, right now I move my DC (harbor fright 2hp) to each individual machine and attach a 10' foot length of 4" hose to the machine I'm working on. Maybe one day in the distant future, I'll plumb in a dedicated DC line for all my machines, but that is a low priority atm in my shop since I'm in need of too many other machines/tools. If I make the opening to small, I gain air flow, but lose "basket" size while if I make the opening to large, I lose air flow but gain "basket size" Maybe I'm just overthinking this. It looks to me like the spacing on the left side of your blade is about double the spacing on the right. I may go with this and I definitely will add the holes in my fence like you did on yours!


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*Hi Scott*

This setup provides so much flow at the point of sawdust production that it will pick up anything in the vicinity, meaning, you don't have to worry about precise placement. Therefore, the asymmetrical configuration does not affect dust collection. As I understand it, you want to have approximately the same cross section area, as the 4" feed hose for maximum effect. The 3.5×3.25 opening is about one square inch less area than a 4" circle.

I am guessing your direct connect system will generate about the same flow as mine, or more. My Delta 50-760 DC was a serendipitous buy on my part….......just bought what the local industrial hardware store had. But in the reviews, it blew away the competition, maybe I should have said sucked away…..........(-:

The holes in the fence add to the dust collection ability considerably. But small cut offs will get sucked off and end up in your dust collector. I have a very coarse screen like grid made from wood installed at the point where the smaller slotted box joins the adapter box for the hose. I can just barely fit my hand in there to go retrieve pieces that get sucked up.

The problem is not too much suction, it is almost too much.

So in summary, make the opening roughly the same area as a 4 inch hose, about 12 square inches. You want the flow velocity because it will capture sawdust from a considerably larger area anyway. Yes, you are over thinking it. But I think I had the advantage of making different collection point devices for different tools, such as my drill press, and had a good feel of how much flow I was going to get.

Try it, you'll like it…............


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## ScottKaye (Jan 19, 2013)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Jim,

Thanks for the advice. I ended up making the throat 3" x 4".

By the way,

How did you secure the dust collection tunnel/box to the table?

Scott


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Scott

There is room behind the MDF table on the Craftsman to attach it to the underlying metal table. It should be designed to be removable and replaceable, because there will be some wear on the tunnel in particular. I attached the tunnel to the box, and the box sits on wood base that is attached to the metal table. It is open topped with the Craftsman, but in three separate compartments. So I just made a cleat that fits under the inward facing lips on the left compartment, and screwed another board to it that lifts the box even with the MDF table top.

Since you have a different machine, you will have to figure out something different. My thought is that you will never sell it, so put some holes in it for metal screws or bolts and nuts. If the metal is thick enough you could even tap the holes to fit a bolt. Even if you sell it, the dust collector will be a good add-on for the buyer.


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## ScottKaye (Jan 19, 2013)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


eww… I really don't want to drill into the 1962 Rockwell Super 990! Having said that, I may just end up doing that but only if I cant get the C-clamp idea to work.


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## ScottKaye (Jan 19, 2013)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Jim,

Last question I promise. 

Is the larger box behind the tunnel necessary? I was thinking (dangerous, I know) I could attach the 4" hose coupler directly to a 1/2 piece of plywood plate. I would then cut out an opening in that plate that fits the tunnel to allow the air flow through. Is it necessary to have the box like you have to help maintain a smooth airstream or would my plate idea be sufficient enough?

Scott


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


No problem with the questions, always happy to give something back to LJ's, since I have asked my share of questions over the years as well.

For me, the box is used to attach the gizmo to the saw, and is also the adapter between the tunnel and the hose. But I don't think it serves any other critical function. It was easy for me to build out of scrap, and I had done it a few other times for other tools. It is probably just a question of preference. I use a box like that on my drill press, but it actually serves as a splitter, allowing air flow under the table and above it. If a plate would work for you, I would think that would be just as functional. The air flow change will just occur in the hose rather than in the box.

Just brain storming, you might be able to attach to the saw using magnets in some way.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Well Jim, I recently upgraded my dust collection system and I saw your design for the RAS and incorporated a design similar to what you had built. I also made it wider and more low profile to fit under the motor.

Thanks for posting your work. It really helped me get started.

You can find more photos here.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*timebertailor*
Hey, looks great. It is amazing how little sawdust remains when you put the dust collection in the right place. I got my solution from reading other posts as well. I really get a lot of use out of my RAS, and I bet you do to.

Thanks for the comment and the pics, if I ever change mine, I might copy yours!

Have a good one…......


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...





> *timebertailor*
> Hey, looks great. It is amazing how little sawdust remains when you put the dust collection in the right place. I got my solution from reading other posts as well. I really get a lot of use out of my RAS, and I bet you do to.
> 
> Thanks for the comment and the pics, if I ever change mine, I might copy yours!
> ...


Thanks Jim for the feedback. I noticed we also have similar tools\blades.

I also made it removable for daddos or miter cuts. I do not even have to disconnect the hose. Just tip it on its end, and it is out of the way and still able to collect dust as a catch bucket.

I was curious, did the holes in the fence help? Should I add more or just the two near the blade path?


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


I think the two near the blade path are enough. I think my fence is higher than yours, so the effects, and the solution might be different.

The holes seem to really help. It was just a guess on my part, but it definitely had a large impact on the dust control.

The only problem I have is small cutoffs getting sucked through. I put a very coarse grate part way in. It stops the items that might get stuck in the ducting. Your setup is different, so it is kind of a trial and error thing. But the holes in the fence were critical for me.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...





> I think the two near the blade path are enough. I think my fence is higher than yours, so the effects, and the solution might be different.
> 
> The holes seem to really help. It was just a guess on my part, but it definitely had a large impact on the dust control.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the feedback. I thought about the smaller items getting sucked up and was pondering using my mortiser to make several more, but smaller square holes along the bottom of the fence.

I may experiment with a scrap piece of wood before making mods to my primary fence, just to see if it would be as effective as the larger holes.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


You might consider making a horizontal slot instead of a bunch of holes. I find having the holes at the level of the table makes it easy to just push stray bits of sawdust to it…...........by hand, brush, or a piece of wood. Fortunately, for the average cut, not much sawdust escapes.


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## pbriggs8 (Jun 20, 2015)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Jim - I'm getting error messages where the photos are supposed to be at the beginning of this thread. It says "Oops. Your image was linked incorrectly. Please visit your account for the correct link. Photobucket."

Do you see the same thing?

By the way, I made a dust shroud for my radial arm saw (inspired by your dust shroud) - and it works great! I have mine connected to a Shop Vac, though, so it doesn't capture all of the dust (but it does get a lot of it).

Thanks for your post!


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*Paul*
Yes, I am getting the same problem. I will look into it tomorrow.

The same dust shroud is in use today and doing its usual good job.

Thanks for the view.

I'll try to see what is going on. There is no permanence on the web, unfortunately.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*Paul*

They had a maintenance disclaimer when I went up there, see what happens tomorrow…............


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*Paul*

Yes, it was a maintenance problem on PB, so the pictures are back up.

I purchased that RAS about 1970 brand new from the local Sears. Most of my crosscut is done with the RAS. I use a large super sled on my TS for more difficult setups.

I am in La Conner, WA at our vacation home, currently. I have another smaller shop here. I have a good miter saw here, but still do a lot of crosscut using a sled I purchased at Rockler. The Rockler sled saved me the time it would take to build a super sled. It also stores easier in this small shop.


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## pbriggs8 (Jun 20, 2015)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Jim,

I wanted to let you know that I referenced your post in my Instructable that shows a similar dust shroud that I made for my radial arm saw. I think we may have the same model radial arm saw. I've used PVC electrical conduit to make the connections, including a 3' extension underneath my workbench to connect the dust shroud to my shop vac. The shop vac doesn't have the air flow of a dedicated dust collector, but it catches a lot of the dust and is much better than nothing. Thanks again for your post!


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## Marsher52 (Dec 11, 2014)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


What about when you have to cut angle cuts?


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*Marsher32*
I use it as a cross cut specialist. If I need to make an angle cut, I use a jig, but it does limit the usefulness. Mostly, I just use it for 90 cross cuts. My TS, with a super sled is well equipped for angle cuts of all sorts…

Thanks for looking…


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## LATOUR98 (Jan 13, 2020)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


Hey Jim where did you get the 90 deg boot for the blade guard? I have the same saw and can not find one anywhere.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...


*LATOUR98*
The 90 deg boot for the blade guard came with the saw. You might try plumbing pieces, but I don't think they are the right size. Many people just block it off anyway, since not much dust comes through there…


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## LATOUR98 (Jan 13, 2020)

jbertelson said:


> *Radial Arm Saw Dust Collection...Precision Control of the Dust......*
> 
> Over a year ago, I was participating in a discussion about dust collection, including Radial Arm Saws (RAS). Jim Hamilton noted that moving the dust collection port, let's call it the dust hood, up to the fence improves performance considerably. So over a year later, I finally got around to it.
> 
> ...





> *LATOUR98*
> The 90 deg boot for the blade guard came with the saw. You might try plumbing pieces, but I don t think they are the right size. Many people just block it off anyway, since not much dust comes through there…
> 
> - Jim Bertelson


Thanks!


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