# HELP! I'M CROOKED!



## pastorsteve70x7 (Dec 8, 2013)

I'm having a serious problem and I can't figure it out, but I bet one of you can. I'm using a router for shelf slots on a bookcase. I'm using the jig I made as a guide. I need a dado 3/4" + a smidge. (that's a Texas word that means, well it means a smidge)

Here's the problem: I make my first pass and it's perfect from start to finish. Using 1/2" bit.
I move the jig back 1/4" + a smidge, clamp jig and make second pass. oops!
The dado starts out at exactly 3/4" but blows out about half way through. It's still flush to the guide, guide, work piece are all still 90* dead on.

First pass 1/2", second starts at 3/4" ends at about 15/16th"

HELP!


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## Woodendeavor (Apr 7, 2011)

The first thing that comes to mind is the climb cut is sliding your jig as you are cuttingIf you slide the jig 1/4" to the other side of the first slot do you still have the same problem?


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## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

*First pass Second pass
__[*

I've always been terrible at deciphering ascii art. Is that someone playing hangman? If so - is there an E? How about an N?

It sounds like this might be the start of the problem
*I move the jig back 1/4" + a smidge*
Perhaps when you shift the jig and reclamp it is not clamping straight. You think it is, it looks like it is, but in reality the far end is shifted 1/4 + 2 smidges instead of one smidge.

And a pic of the jig in action might provide some hints.


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## pastorsteve70x7 (Dec 8, 2013)

JustJoe, YOU WERE TOO FAST I CORRECTED IT.


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## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

I think your jig is either not being clamped straight when you move it, or like woodendeavor said - it's being pushed out of whack when you rout.


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## 111 (Sep 2, 2013)

Router base round or square? Square….you may not be keeping it flat against the fence the whole way.
Or you jig is moving, can't be much else…


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## MarcoDivetta (Dec 12, 2013)

Is the same part of your router base touching the jig on the second pass or turning it as you move ??

Some router bases aren't exactly centered so if you register a different part the router base on the fence or roll the router as you move it would give you a different cut .

Hope this helps


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

Have you considered biscuit joinery for that sort of joint? It's just as strong and much faster.


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## pastorsteve70x7 (Dec 8, 2013)

*YOUR ALL CORRECT*
not being* clamped straigh*t, Square….you may *not be keeping it flat* against the fence the whole way, *roll the router* as you move it, Have you considered* biscuit joinery* for that sort of joint.* I'm a real newbie and haven't learned any joints yet. This my first REAL project.*

Here's what I figured out:
*My clamps were throwing the alignment off.* Hard to see at the time.
The leg of the jig I'm pointing at needs to be much longer so it stays parallel to the edge of my work piece.









I also figured out that my direction was correct on the first pass, but* need to be in the opposite direction on the second because I was on the opposite side of the dado.*

*Thanks for the tips and feedback. You guys are a blessing to me*. Someday maybe I can build or buy a router table or get a dado set for my table saw.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Steve, I "trap" my router between 2 straight edges when I need to route dados. ShopNotes had a write up on this jig/technique years ago so I can't find a link for ya. I use the stock that needs to fit in the dado to set the 2 straight edges.

I can send you a pic of mine if you need more help.


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## pastorsteve70x7 (Dec 8, 2013)

gfadvm, great idea! Thanks I'll try it during half time.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Send me a pm if you need more info.


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## grumpy749 (Nov 22, 2011)

Steve what you really need to do is cut the dado in one pass. that means buying the correct bit namely a plywood bit for cutting a dado the same size as your plywood. which by the way is not 3/4 inch its 23/32 or .720 Unless you have some sort of oddball size plywood down there in Texas. I'm talking hardwood ply such as oak or maple.


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## 111 (Sep 2, 2013)

"Steve what you really need to do is cut the dado in one pass."

*Why?* I don't see the difference.

Steve,
I think gfadvm is talking about something like this. I'm sure his is different but this is the concept.


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## pastorsteve70x7 (Dec 8, 2013)

Now I'm confused, but that's nothing new. 
Actually, *in Texas our usual tool of choice for everything is a chainsaw.* I'm still trying to figure out how to do a dovetail with one.


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## rg33 (Dec 1, 2012)

Steve, in the future you can try one of these:

www.woodsmithshop.com/download/204/adjustabledadojig.pdf‎

it's adjustable and should always give you a tight fit. Plywood is never the same thickness even within the same sheet (I learned this from personal experience) so I stay away from those odd sized bits that claim to match the thickness of the ply. Stick to a half inch bit and run it with two passes using the jig I added a link to above.

best of luck

RG


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Here's a jig that can help. As others have said you need to route in the correct direction left to right.

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/204/adjustabledadojig.pdf


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Steve, The jig that a1Jim and RG posted links to is basically what I was trying to describe. I don't have the cleats (with knobs) on mine. I just use clamps.

RG/Jim, Thanks for posting those!


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