# What to look for when picking a slab for a desk



## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

I'm thinking about building a desk with a flitch/slab top. We have a local outfit here in Oregon that specializes in slabs and flitches (not sure if I understand the difference between those words). I'm curious if there are things I should be sure to look for aside from the aesthetics of the piece to avoid a bad outcome.

While I'm talking about slabs and desks, I noticed that when I google images of what other people have done I mainly see desks that are pretty minimal, ie. a slab with simple metal legs attached. I sorta had a more traditional desk in mind, but replacing a traditional top with a slab top. By traditional desk I mean a bank of drawers either on one side or on both. Something like this:










I think that might look cool with a slab top. Is there a reason structurally why I wouldn't want to do that?


----------



## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Not at all. The only problem I see with it is the natural curves of the slab might clash with the symmetrical parts and create an odd shape. I have a desk and a coffee table on my projects that incorporate a natural edge you might get some ideas from.


----------



## richardwootton (Jan 17, 2013)

If the live edge isn't too drastic it might look pretty darn cool. Check out jcsterling on this site. His projects have always been inspirational for me.


----------



## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

So any tips for picking the flitch itself? I have an appointment next monday to look over the inventory.


----------



## brtech (May 26, 2010)

A "slab" is a wide, thick piece of wood. Usually, it's big enough so one piece forms the top of the item you are building. Sometimes slabs have "live edges" meaning one side or two is left natural, and not cut straight.

A "flitch" a block of wood that veneer slices are cut from. The idea of a flitch is that you get sequential cuts from the same flitch to do grain matching. While a flitch may be wide and thick, what you typically buy is the thin veneer pieces. Of course, someone had to get the flitch, so you can sometimes buy wood that is good enough to be a flitch.

A conventional top is made with multiple pieces of wood glued edge to edge.

What you need most of all is to know what the moisture content of the slab is. If it's not dry, it takes a looooong time to get it ready to use, unless you have your own kiln. We usually accept defects in slabs we wouldn't otherwise, and we use epoxy or bow-tie shaped inlays ("Dutchman") to fix loose knots cracks and splits.


----------



## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

Excellent vocabulary lession. Slab is the word I'm looking for then.

What moisture content would you find acceptable to start working with immediately? 12%? Higher? Lower?

I've let the supplier know I'm not looking for a gigantic piece. 3'x7' would probably be ideal, but I'm guessing that, as far as slabs go, that might be "small" and nobody is going to cut to size. I also get that it's the thickness that matters for the drying.


----------



## richardwootton (Jan 17, 2013)

Depending on where you live 12% might be acceptable, but a bit on the high side. You probably won't be able to get much lower than ten percent with air dried lumber. 6-10% I believe is typically desired for furniture.


----------



## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

And since it's going to be one piece on top, I'm not necessarily worried as much about some movement along the horizontal axis of the wood, but rather would be concerned about twisting, bowing, or cupping?


----------



## Nomad62 (Apr 20, 2010)

You will want to ensure that the piece will be kiln dried to the center down to at least 10%, 8 would be better. This is because moisture loss or gain will cause a figured piece to change shape, and it will gain or lose moisture until it has been in an inside environment until it stabilizes. Some kiln operators put wood in the kiln and bake it for a few days until the outside reads their target moisture content on the outer edge of the piece, not considering the fact that the core is still relatively wet; the resulting drying/stabilizing will allow wood movement, ruining your project if you haven't allowed for it. Understanding it is hard to be patient, this is important. I just got done drying some tiger striped and burled maple in the sizes around your target, it is definitely a science more than a task. Best of luck with your project, take your time and you will be grateful for the outcome.


----------



## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

If one used a single slab top, would you need to account, even more than usual, for wood movement in the way it was attached to the desk? Not sure why I think this, just seems intiutive.


----------



## brtech (May 26, 2010)

Nah, it's the same whether it's one piece or 20

Of course, if the MC of the pieces are different, you might get different movement, but usually we start with everything at the same MC. Same if you are mixing species. But a slab that is 3' wide is gonna change about as much as a 6 board edge glued piece, assuming same species, thickness, MC, etc.

Remember that for flatsawn pieces, it's width that changes and not length (much, it does change a little). Usually, you have a stringer or other support piece that is underneath the top and it's long grain, and the top is cross grain, so the length of the stringer doesn't change but the width of the top changes. So, you need something that allows the top to grow when the stringer doesn't (much).


----------



## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Ok. For some reason a big slab just seems more unruly to me than a table top with 3 inch strips where the joinery (even if just glue) "locks" it in a bit. but it wouldn't be the first time my intuition was incorrect.


----------



## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Charles, yes they still move but one thing I am still questioning myself is how can a piece of wood move once it is totally sealed with something like lacquer or poly. I would assume the initial movement would occur when the sealer is applied (expansion) and then it will be stable. Richard, AR here too.


----------



## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

Well, I'm hoping I hear that the slabs are all dry and they have been watching the moisture content.  I thought about attaching the slab to the desk structure with those "figure 8" pieces that you use to attach an apron to a tabletop that allows for wood movement. That might be an effective way to allow for lateral movement at least.


----------



## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I was assuming counterbored screws. I like that the counterboring allows for 360 movement.


----------



## brtech (May 26, 2010)

That's usually not what you want. Wood movement direction is predictable, length is not quite as predictable.

You want an elongated hole, not a circular hole, with the elongation in the direction of the wood movement.

You really don't want the top to move relative to the base other than what change in moisture does to it. You pin one end down and let the other end expand. For the length, you can pretty much hold it down on both ends, but allowing for some movement is sometimes wise, especially if the length stringers are a different species than the top.


----------



## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

Wait. Do I usually not want the figure 8 doodads or the counterbore screws?


----------



## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I know that wood movement is primarily in one direction and not 360, but since there is some possibility for movement in any direction, counterbores make sense to me-plus they're easy and they hold well.


----------



## Nomad62 (Apr 20, 2010)

The figure 8's are best ( in my opinion); wood moves x amount in thickness, x times 2 in width, and almost not at all in length.


----------



## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

Well, the slabs are kiln dried and at 6-8% moisture. Any thoughts on a price for this walnut piece? 6'6" tall. You can see the widths barely. It is 12/4 thick.


----------



## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

For what its worth walnut slabs like that in my area go for around 150 bucks.


----------



## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

For real? The quoted price is probably about 5-6x as much. I suspect your price is as low as this price is high? Why are slabs so inexpensive where you are at?


----------



## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

honestly I dont even know. I do keep a few real gems on hand, but I also mark the price up. I am storing it, and they are one of a kind. I have never had a client have a problem with the prices. ALso, worth noting, that this is for walnut. THe prices can go way up if you want birds eye maple…


----------



## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

Wait. LOL. You misunderstand. Your price is 5-6x LESS expensive. The ballpark price quoted to me for that slab was $1000….


----------



## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

oh ok LOL. Well I guess I have no shame in admitting I have more then tripled the price on slabs when clients want to pick one out for custom work. They always walk away happy. Depending on what wood is used and the size etc 1k will get a finished table from me. I also do a lot with small slabs. I got a little piece of live edge maple for 10 bucks. Had a leftover little piece of walnut. Made a set of tables from scraps and on hand matierials. Sold for 225 bucks.


----------



## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

Does anybody else think $1000 is a crazy asking price for a slab like this?


----------



## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

Hmm, well now I'm a bit confused. I found a website for a company selling walnut slabs in Portland and a similar slab (at least by dimensions) is being offered for $800 which is not too far from the ballpark $1000 for the slab above. (link).

Nobody wants to feel like they are being taken advantage of, but I'm not unwilling to pay a reasonable price even if it is "up there".

Is Box Whisperers experience of buying slabs like this for $150 unusual? Are others willing to weigh in with their experience?


----------



## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Varies by where you are, but I would have guessed $500-not close to $150 around here.


----------



## Ingjr (Feb 21, 2010)

I've been shopping around for a table top sized slab myself, looking at many online sites that specialize in burls and large slabs. To me and from what I've seen $1K isn't out of line for a top that size. I'd buy them all day for $150 ea.


----------



## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

I have to be honest, Ive built up a nice stash. Like Ive mentioned, the walnut is cheap, I payed a fair bit more for maple and birch, but got lucky and got some spalted ones. Ill post pics when the work is done. Also for what its worth, I pick these up in person. No shipping.


----------



## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

That would be cool, but it will be a bit like pouring salt in the wound.


----------



## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

I re read your post, and at 12/4ths it would be closer to 200. Still a great deal. When my gf bought a house, we went out and got a ton of slabs, she literally wants slab furniture for everything. I can dig it!


----------



## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

I hope I dont regret posting this, dude, youre going to hate me.

The 143 year old fir slab for the stool was…..15 bucks.

The walnut holding up the 50 inch TV was 56 bucks.


----------



## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

I have to be honest, this is who the stool was for. Shes getting up in years and jumping up and down form the queen bed is hard on her, or will be eventually. Its also a super high bed because I have back problems. I sit on the stool every day to put on my socks, but lets face it, its her stool.


----------

