# Garage heating for safety and economy



## kevinw (Feb 29, 2008)

Any opinions on how to heat my garage with the least trouble and cost? I want to do more in the winter, but it is just too cold most of the time. It is an attached garage, but has no furnace vents.


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## spaids (Apr 15, 2008)

Me too. Winter shuts me down.


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## Fireguy (Jul 17, 2009)

Are you looking to heat it 24/7 or just while you work?


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Kevin, I am not sure how large your garage is but I have about 350 sq ft in my shop and run 2 1500 watt space heaters. They keep it comfortable enough for me to work in short sleeves and be able to put a finish on my projects but the temperature rarely dips below 10 degrees F here in Kentucky. One of the heaters is a radiant type and I just leave it on. I turn the other one on high about an hour before I go into the shop.


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## NewPickeringWdWrkr (Feb 24, 2010)

I have a similar problem. I've seen some posts where others have put up 220V heating etc., but I couldn't afford to do that myself. I have yet to wire my garage to the level I want. I also have a project that I have a deadline on, so this is what I did. It's not great, but I can get to the point where I can apply some finishes.

I first replaced the 4 door seals around the garage door. HD sells them and for a single car garage, I spent about 150 bucks. I got the good seals (double walled stripping). I also got an oscilating parabolic heater (900 watts on high). That alone will if placed close will warm your immediate area, but if you have higher ceilings, it will still feel cold because there's no air circulation to bring the warmer air back down. I put an old oscilating fan up high to bring the warmer air back down (but set to not oscilate).

It's not perfect, and I can't run the heater on high at the same time as my DC + 1 power tool (the breaker gets tripped), but it keeps me going until I can afford to upgrade.

I'd be interested in hearing other innovative ideas that have been thought of as well.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

I or we here in the UK use mostly a wet sealed radiator system where the water is circulated round the house from room to room and back to the boiler .Adding a few extra radiators in each shop was my answer. I currently have this system extended from my house in the wood shop and am imminently about to add a few rad's to my engineers shop which is the size of a single car garage(although I have it stacked with machines .I have mine on 24/7 and find no rust whatsoever Good luck whatever you eventually decide upon let us know if it worked out good. Kindest regards Alistair


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## barryvabeach (Jan 25, 2010)

Options that I have used include the portable ventless gas heater supplied by propane tanks ( no so good on the safety side since you have an open flame, but it will generate tons of heat) I have used one when it is pretty cold, though it can introduce a lot of moisture in the air. second 120 volt quartz radiant heater - obviously much less heat output, and will tie up one circuit ( I have used one - it keeps you somewhat warm so long as you are within a few feet of it - but if you have any other tool on the same circuit, it may trip the breaker, and it warms you, not the surrounding air) , third the oil filled radiator - it doesn't generate much heat at all and takes lots of time. fourth, the portable 120 volt fan based space heater - even less heat than number 2, and takes a long time to raise the air temp a little, fifth, which I just got a few weeks ago - 220 volt heater. I bought the Farenheat http://www.amazon.com/Fahrenheat-Ceiling-Mount-Automatic-Electric-Heater/dp/B0000AXEZV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1267642260&sr=1-1 , though it is also sold under the Dayton name, It gets most of my 2 car garage warm very quickly. Downside is cost, and running a 30 amp 240 volt line, though you have the option to set it up to run on a 20 amp line by changing some pins in the heater. Options I looked at by didn't pursue include a direct vent, totally enclosed flame propane heater - much safer than the cheap portable one I had, though more expensive to install, and the 120 volt 20 amp hard wired baseboard units - again much safer than the portables, but does require a dedicated circuit or 2. I also put in a cheap laminate floor that I got from Sam's, the cold concrete really makes me feel much colder, and the laminate floor helped a lot.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I solved my problem with a Fahrenheat Unit Heater (see: http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/1161). I turn it on about 15 minutes before I start work in the shop, and it cycles on/off to maintain temp of about 62 degrees. Seems to have only added about $12 to the monthly electric bill.


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

kevin,
are all your walls insulated? what about the door? Just making sure that is done should help to keep the temperatures more moderate year round. Telling us that will also help people answer how much heater you will likely need.


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## kevinw (Feb 29, 2008)

To answer a couple of questions:

Walls are insulated and closed in with drywall as is ceiling. Split level home so space between ceiling and upstairs floors are also insulated. I just want to heat it when I am working out there. Moderate winter days it is 50-55 out there, which isn't too bad and is OK for gluing. Bitter days it gets below 50 which isn't good for gluing or comfort at all.


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## mikethetermite (Jun 16, 2009)

I have a 750 sf shop. I use an electric heater sold by Grainger. I keep it turned down, then back up just before I'm going to work in the shop. Here is a link to Grainger. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3UG73?Pid=search
This one should work just fine, and not add much to your electric bill.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

Procom ventless gas heater .If you use propane instead of LP gas the moisture problem is nonexistent. I heat a 25×25 shop (insulated) atop my garage and it's cost effective and works well. After a half hour I work in my shirtsleeves. I live in Maine, winters usually 0-30 degrees F. during the winter. Third winter now and no issues. The heater costs me about $160, more to hook up of course from the gas man. The flame or moister are non issues. It does a great job. Try northerntools.com and search for procom.


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## Bret (Oct 31, 2008)

I just got one of these heaters from Lee Valley and hooked it up last weekend. It's fantastic. Won't heat the whole space (I use one bay of a 3-bay garage as my shop) but it easily heats the immediate work area and keeps me in shirt sleeves and comfortable. I haven't used it in the heart of winter, but it seems like it'll keep up on all but the coldest days-maybe not appropriate for gluing or finishing, but for construction, sure.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,43456,43465&p=44590


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## Padre (Nov 5, 2008)

I use a Hot Dawg, and I absolutely love it. Small hole in the side of the garage, and zippo, you're done.


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

I use a Hot Dawg too. Its been great. Mine vents out the side of the shop. I ran a cold air intake to it also. Keeps the temp a cozy what ever you need.


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## alexsutula (Jan 14, 2010)

I just insulated and heated my 400 sq foot shop. I had to build and addition to house my 50,000 BTU forced air furnace. I my main concern was fumes and saw dust getting into the unit and causing a fire. I spent about $2,000 for the whole job, which includes; insulation, door, building materials, furnace, ducts work, components, plastic, and labor. It wasn't cheap, but I couldn't afford 4-6 months of down time.


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## alexsutula (Jan 14, 2010)

I recommend forced air over infrared heat.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

well i guess im the only one here who heats with wood….ive got a nice wood stove and it keeps my uninsulated shop warm enough to be in short sleeve shirts…....and wod isnt to bad to get…i have mine brought in..but if i was healthier i would get my own…it heats the shop well…and with you having insulation…yours would be toasty warm and quick…


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## FJPetruso (Mar 29, 2008)

I have had a "direct vent" wall mounted gas furnace in my garage for 20+ years & love it. But when picking out a heating system for my woodshop I got too CHEAP & purchased a "ventless" heater. BIG MISTAKE!!! Those heaters still require vents… Not on the heater but in the room. One vent each at the ceiling & at the floor. (It's in the instructions.) THIS IS NEEDED TO PREVENT OXYGEN STARVATION. Plus that super 99%+ efficiency adds loads & loads of moisture into the room. If I turn the heat back to save on my gas bill the metal on the tools chills & sweats like the windows when I turn the heat back up. When the opportunity presents itself, I'm going to buy a gas fired, direct vent wall furnace. The price of a good direct vent wall furnace starts at about $1200. Don't make the mistake that I did!


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## kevinw (Feb 29, 2008)

Thanks guys for all the great feedback. Much to think about.


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## Dorff (Jun 12, 2007)

I used to use two electric heaters in my garage, but depending on the amount of time that I was out there, I could notice the change on my hydro bill in the cold months. I opted instead to run a 6 inch duct from my furnace trunk line through the wall into the garage. I run my furnace fan 24/7 so warm air from the house supplies the garage with enough heat to keep me warm. I could not tell the difference on my gas bill and there is still plenty of heat for the rest of the house.

As an added bonus, using the same air as my house allows my wood to acclimate itself before I even use it. When I bring it inside, I don't have to worry about humidity or temperature changes.


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

I'd like to show you my furnace. I paid $25 for it. It's about 25,00 BTU. In mild weather the pilot light keeps the shop warm.

They were demolishing an old apartment house, & each apartment had its own furnace.

You can see what my outdoor air intake setup looks like. The trap is to prevent cold air from entering when the furnace isn't running.

You can also see the electrostatic filter at the bottom.

I run the fan constantly, & it helps clean the air in the shop.

You also get an even heat that way, no ups & downs in temperature.

I ran a gas line right from my house gas meter. It doesn't seem to affect my total gas bill much.


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## Gofor (Jan 12, 2008)

If you are looking for inexpensive and a way to get it above 50 (which is about where I start working, wearing coveralls when necessary):

Best two ways I have found:

1. Shop Vac. The air coming out of it gets warm after a few minutes use. After 15 minutes, it will raise the garage temp about 5 degrees. Better on the ears if you have one of the low-noise type.

2. An inexpensive set of the two 500w halogen work site lamps. Turn them on and it will raise the temp better than a quartz-type space heater or a coil heater with fan. I used them this past winter, where we had record lengths of high temps below 50, and I was able to make a baby's cradle, plus a few other projects.

Caveat: it worked fine for gluing, etc, but I had to cherry-pick the warmer days for the finishing.

My garage is 21×21, no room above and ceiling uninsulated, and door is metal and not insulated.

Go


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## RetiredCoastie (Sep 7, 2009)

I installed a cadet "Hot One" 5000 watt 30 amp 220 volt heater in my 2 car garage. Its well insulated except for the large garage door that's insulated but it could be better. I can keep the garage heated to a comfortable 70 deg F with outside temp at 45 deg F. I'm really pleased with the performance. Check it out: http://www.cadetco.com/show_product.php?prodid=1012


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

Gofor, Where do you live? "record lengths of high temperatures below 50". You're in a warm climate. The halogen lights should work well where you are. Here in Maine though 50 is a nice short sleeve day in the spring. During the winter we get months of 0-30 degree days with single numbers and below zero nights. Just brining the temperature up to speed in the morning to get it to 50 takes at least 25,000 btu's. 30,000-40,000 is better. And at the prices for those high btu's Full insulation is a must. at least 3 1/2" on the walls nd 6-9" on the ceilings.


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

*If your shop vacuum can be made to recirculate with the hose.

Just recirculate it for a couple of minutes.

Then take the hose off, & you'll have a heater.

I used mine like that once in awhile

I had an old Sears vacuum that said you could do that.

For your climate it may be all you need. *


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