# best filler for knots in black walnut?



## romeege (Mar 1, 2010)

I am wondering how to deal with these two big holes in two knots….here are a couple pics… thanks for any ideas guys!


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

I've dealt with similar knots 2 ways. One is to mix Walnut sawdust with yellow wood glue and use it like putty to fill it. The second, and my preference for your situation, is to mix some black dye in epoxy and use that to fill.


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

Epoxy and or with a little charcoal?


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

Depends what sort of look you want. I've used epoxy many times to fill knots; eg. West Systems. You can leave it clear, tint it etc.


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## ScottM (Jul 10, 2012)

Just plain epoxy. No sawdust or fillers.


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## Zonker (Oct 22, 2018)

I have used Fiberglass resin in SYP with good results. It is very watery so you'd want to tape the back side so it all doesn't just run out. It dries fairly clear and pretty hard, will sand nicely, but it won't take stain. I've never tried adding any dyes to it, but I googled that and it seems possible. Hope this helps.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Maybe knock it out and glue in a walnut dowel.


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## Woodchuckswife (Oct 24, 2014)

Walnut saw dust and glue mixed like a paste fill and let dry, then sand with a lite coat of glue and let dry. then finish sand. I have don cracks that way and then later could not find them even knowing they were there.Good luck.
Chuck


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## romeege (Mar 1, 2010)

thanks guys…it looks like epoxy is the winner, but I guess the trick will be how to squeegie it off of surface flush… the piece is already finished


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## Snowbeast (Sep 26, 2014)

I usually pack it full of walnut sanding dust and then drizzle with thin CA glue. Actually, a slight overfill works best. Then just sand flush.

Can't help you much with the already finished part. But next time…..


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## GaryCN (Aug 18, 2007)

I've done that, fast fix as you can sand it in almost immediately.



> I usually pack it full of walnut sanding dust and then drizzle with thin CA glue. Actually, a slight overfill works best. Then just sand flush.
> 
> Can t help you much with the already finished part. But next time…..
> 
> - Snowbeast


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

That is not a bad looking knot. Not every knot needs filling so I would not worry about it. 
See what I did :<)


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

> I ve dealt with similar knots 2 ways. One is to mix Walnut sawdust with yellow wood glue and use it like putty to fill it. The second, and my preference for your situation, is to mix some black dye in epoxy and use that to fill.
> 
> - HokieKen


ditto but already finished is tough.you could try and fill as close as you can then take a razor blade and cut it flush before the epoxy gets totally hard,but i dont know how good its gonna look.maybe just live with it.


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

I'm a fan of the CA glue technique. Much easier to use than epoxy. There are three thicknesses of CA glue. I find medium works for most cracks, knots (still in place), and voids. For larger openings I fill then with fine sawdust then apply a shot of thin super glue followed immediately with the thick glue. The thin glue acts as a wicking agent to draw the thick glue into the sawdust. Keep adding the thick glue until it stops soaking in. It can take 15 minutes or so for the glue to set up in a deep opening or use the accelerator spray.

I collected the sawdust from a orbital or belt sander with a dust collector bag attached. I have a collection of various sawdust wood types saved in small jars and use this technique all the time on lathe work.


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## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

> thanks guys…it looks like epoxy is the winner, but I guess the trick will be how to squeegie it off of surface flush… the piece is already finished
> 
> - romeege


Since you all ready have finish on it, your options are more limited. Aj2 suggested leaving it alone which is a good suggestion if your taste will tolerate it. Otherwise, if you are very careful, you might be able to fill with epoxy just til it reaches the rim of each hole. Let surface tension mound it up a bit, but don't let it run out onto the adjoining surface. Once cured you might then be able to carefully shave, scrape, and/or sand level without much damage to the finish. You will need lots of care and a bit of luck.

The thought occurs to me that you might be able to apply a coat of wax around the area before applying the epoxy. Just don't get any in the holes, of course. Another idea: if the knot holes go all the way through, maybe you can apply some wide clear packing tape over the holes on the finished side and then apply the epoxy from the back and let it cure. Once cured, the epoxy surface should be close to flush and require very little work, if any. It might not be perfect, but maybe close enough, as they say.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Even if you can level the epoxy, you will still need to give it another topcoat, otherwise the sheens won't match.

Unless the area will see significant wear, I'd go with ebony colored Timbermate. It'll be the easiest to level using a putty knife, and a quick touch up with 320 or 400 grit paper will smooth it completely. Then give it one more coat of finish to seal it.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

> Even if you can level the epoxy, you will still need to give it another topcoat, otherwise the sheens won t match.
> 
> Unless the area will see significant wear, I d go with ebony colored Timbermate. It ll be the easiest to level using a putty knife, and a quick touch up with 320 or 400 grit paper will smooth it completely. Then give it one more coat of finish to seal it.
> 
> - Rich


yeah i agree either fill it and refinish or leave it be.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

plain clear epoxy - - NOT the amber T88, and definitely *don't get* the Devcon 5 minute 'blue' epoxy in the double barrel syringe for that.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> plain clear epoxy - - NOT the amber T88, and definitely *don t get* the Devcon 5 minute blue epoxy in the double barrel syringe for that.
> 
> - DrDirt


How is he going to level that and blend it into an existing finish? You did read that the surface is already finished, right? (post #8)


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## Serhij (Oct 24, 2018)

An old time method is to use a shellac stick. I found it in Tage Frid's book and have used it on walnut, very successfully. You melt the shellac into/onto the fault, then sand when done. You can buy the sticks, I made mine.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

> How is he going to level that and blend it into an existing finish? You did read that the surface is already finished, right? (post #8)
> 
> - Rich


Epoxy comes off the finished surface…. that is why you have to rough up surfaces before using epoxy, and why you can just "Pop" the unused epoxy out of the plastic mixing cup.
Level it with a plane, and use tape to help prevent marring of the surround surface., and some sanding will be needed.

Filling a knot and expecting no touch-up/recoating is not even a realistic goal…even when using a shellac burn in stick, you have to pad on more finish afterwards

But I responded to the question in the title… "Best Filler for knots in Black Walnut"

(I see your solution, requires sanding and an additional coat of finish as well… so not clear what point you are trying to make in your response to me)


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## tomsteve (Jan 23, 2015)

> thanks guys…it looks like epoxy is the winner, but I guess the trick will be how to squeegie it off of surface flush… the piece is already finished
> 
> - romeege


if youre going to go this route, use one that has a longer open time-something like bob smith 45 minute epoxy. that will allow you to fill the know, let the epoxy settle, then top off if needed. warm up the epoxy a bit to make ot flow in and level faster


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## romeege (Mar 1, 2010)

thanks again everyone,...you guys are amazing!!


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