# Keep the split maple in the cutting board, fill it, or cut it off?



## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

I just finished the final glue-up on my first end grain cutting board this morning from walnut and hard maple. The problem is, a small section of the hard maple has a split/crack in it that I didn't discover until after the initial glue-up. The split is not all that large, around 3/4-inch in length. It goes entirely through one piece of the maple from front to back, then into the adjoining section part way.

I figured I could turn that one over and keep that split on the bottom. However, I'm not sure about the split that goes all the way through? I intentionally glued this piece on the end in case it would be better to cut it off. I like the dimensions of the current board though, and if I take an inch of one side, I need to take an inch off the other side to even it out.

Should I not worry about it, or use something to fill it, or cut it off? What would be the best thing to fill it with? I suppose I could wetsand some Danish Oil in, although that's not how I wanted to finish the board. I was going to use either mineral oil and wax, or maybe Salad Bowl finish.

Thanks for your input on this.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I would fill it with epoxy, sand and then do whatever finish you had intended to use.


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## Porosky (Mar 10, 2009)

Fill with Maple Framo-wood


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

poroskywood, I'm assuming you meant Famowood Wood Filler? I was on the Rockler site looking at that and Wunderfil.

TheDane, Hadn't thought of using epoxy. I know it's a fine split, so I'm not sure it would matter if there was a little part that the finish didn't take to, such as would happen if I went the epoxy route.

Since the split is close to the edge of the board, rather than in the center, it should rather, if ever, encounter a knife blade.

Thanks for the feedback. Anyone else second one of the above choices, or maybe suggest an alternative?


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## Porosky (Mar 10, 2009)

sorry end of day. Yes *Famowood* hands down.


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## tyskkvinna (Mar 23, 2010)

I just used Famowood wood filler! it's awesome. also my suggestion.


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## Porosky (Mar 10, 2009)

I really don't think a little famowood on the edge of a cutting board is going to kill or poison anyone. David is correct in saying that the split could open up more. I'd take the chance especially is the board is for you. Is it a large noticeable split, you could have some fun and inlay a butterfly joint to hold it together


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I prefer to replace it. if not the best repair for wood is wood. The best fillers (other than bondo) will not hold up to repeated water contact. If you choose not to replace it I would cut a a small wedge and put some waterproof glue like Titebond III put a little on the bottom of the wedge and pound it in enough to make good contact let it dry and cut the top off and sand smooth. If done right it will be almost invisible.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

OK, finally got a moment to take a couple of pictures of the problem areas.

this is a cutting board for our house, so if it does, over time have issues, I could fix it then, or just trim it down into a smaller board and then build a new one.

This is my first cutting board anyway and I'm not sure I got enough squeeze-out with the Titebond III? I got some, but certainly not at every joint. And it took me a long time to eventually get all the clamps in place after using the cauls.

Here are links to the pics.:
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac173/jjgelaude/End%20Grain%20Cutting%20Board/FirstEndGrainCuttingBoard013.jpg
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac173/jjgelaude/End%20Grain%20Cutting%20Board/FirstEndGrainCuttingBoard010.jpg

The crack around .6-.8-inches from the edge of the board. I'd rather not cut it if I can avoid it. I realize there are no guarantees at fixing it.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Another alternative is to cut a inlay pattern over it an repeat the pattern as if you meant to have the patterm in it in the first place


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## Porosky (Mar 10, 2009)

After seeing the pics still going with the Famowood suggestion. Or cut each edge off. Good Luck. I await your finished project post.


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## Broglea (Dec 9, 2009)

I'm with Jim on this one. You should be able to cut it out and replace the piece with a new one. Or just live with it as is and when it become too much of a problem attempt to repair it then. Good luck.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

You are fortunate. Most my mistakes have to be burned. Often, this is not my idea, it's at the request of family members and others. This is actually a simple solution, after all, it is a maple butcher block. Go out to your shed, get your ax and go at it. Give it that "it's been in a butcher's meat market for years look." I'm pretty sure they charge extra for that.

If that isn't a viable solution and cutting the offending piece out doesn't work, try applying mineral oil, as originally planned. Focus on that area. I've had old butcher blocks that had cracked and separated from neglect. I flooded the surface with mineral oil and walked away. When I cam back, it has soaked in, so I added more. I continued to do that until I was bored with the process and the oil had ceased to soak in in a reasonable amount of time. Two weeks later, I noted the oil had swelled the wood cells and every crack had swollen shut. Maybe, just maybe, you could be so lucky too.


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## Eagle1 (Jan 4, 2010)

If you are giving it away, I would cut it down. If you are keeping it,and are worried about bacteria getting it. The woodwhisper has a podcast about he seals a endgrain cutting board that seals all the way through the board.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

I go with Jim's solution. A wedge of the same wood type and a waterproof glue. I hate putty type fillers, they look bad and will likely not work over time. No offense to the others.. It's just my personal opinion.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

Just when I thought I had decided what to do with this board, the checking becomes more apparent. I was going to cut the board down by about 1.5-inches total (width-wise), then cut out the partial split and wedge and glue in a new piece of maple. That was when I thought there were the 2-problem areas.

That's what I had planned on doing.

Then a few minutes ago, I got out the ROS and went at the board for about 45-minutes with 60-grit paper. I had to get out a few burn marks (what an amateur I am!,) as well as level everything out. Next time I will be more prepared when I go to do the final glue up with cauls all set, etc.! I also want to get a belt sander now as that will make it much faster during this step next time. Now I know why people use drum sanders for boards, or glue on a sacrificial strip at each end and then runner it through a planer. The end grain definitely does not like being sanded.

At any rate, after sanding, I discovered that there are multiple pieces that have the split in them (probably a wind check, as David suggested to me). Unfortunately I think it pretty much ran through most of the board, so there are 5-wind checks that I can now easily see. I'm wondering if there are others that are fine enough right now that I'm not seeing?

I definitely don't want to count this board as a loss and would much rather use it as an experiment of sorts. If you look at the one side of the board, you can see that the check is the worst at the outer edge, and seems to become less and less of an issue as you go towards the center of the board. This makes sense because of the way the maple was laid out and flipped consecutively. At least the worst of it is at the edge.

Now I'm wondering if I shouldn't just use all of the techniques suggested above? I might still cut it down to size, removing the one check at the edge that pretty much goes from top to bottom. But the other 4 areas I'm thinking of doing epoxy on one, a glued-in wedge on another, and various fillers on the others.

If I do it this way, it will be a good way to do sort of a longer-term experiment where I report back after time to let people know how the board is holding-up.

OK, I just reread what I just typed. That seems like a lot trouble, especially since I don't have any of the filler or epoxy products on-hand.

It was suggested that the fillers won't last and may look bad. Hmm. Guess I'd like to see the products on actual wood samples. Does anyone have a picture of the couple of wood fillers listed above on maple?

I should probably just trim the board down to size and then fill in the other checks. Or I suppose I could just live with the board until it gives up the ghost.

Since all of the checks but one are in the middle of the board and securely locked-in place, I'm wondering if I stop agonizing over this, cut the outer one off, and live with the other four? After all, I do have other projects to worry about right now, namely the bookcases and mantel.

I do have a set of 4-chisels, but believe me, they're more "industrial" in nature than meant for fine woodworking, so I'm not sure they're cut-out for this exacting of a task.

OK, now I'm just typing in circles. I'm going to step away from this project for now and go work on the bookcases some more before heading in to work today.

I'm glad this board is living at my house. I would never give or sell a board like this! I'm sort of curious though, from an educational standpoint to see what happens with this board.

New thoughts, reiterations of past suggestions, etc.?


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Jonathan, if you have a scrap piece with a check or tow, try flooding the end with oil (non-hardening) to see if swelling the wood would affect the problem at all. As I mentioned, I restored a butcher block, which had hundreds of cracks and separations. It took a week or two for the individual cells to absorb the oil, but the results were remarkable.

The oil may continue to wick to other areas of the wood, so will have to be added in the future. You can also put a hardening oil on after you're done, to retard moisture gain and loss further.


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## jockmike2 (Oct 10, 2006)

Johnathan, here's what I'd do. I have a friend with some old grenade simulators that pack quite a punch. Just kidding, did you see the shipwrecks I've made. I agree with A1Jim, for bacterias sake I would and will with my own board, chisel out the bad pieces and cut to fit pieces on the band saw, re-glue old wood with new. Plane it smooth and you'll be a happy camper, if it's one or six, do it right. because,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

I made the mistake of showing it to my wife and now she's anxious to use it.

If I'm going to try to chisel these out and replace them, I suppose I'll start on the outer one first, as it is the most offensive, plus if I mess it up, I'll just lop that section off as I had intended to do originally. It'll be the practice section.

If the board is 1.5-inches thick, how much would you suggest chiseling out anyway? It was not mentioned before. Would 1/2-inch or so be fine? Maybe it doesn't really matter as long as I get a secure fit, sealing the surface, so to speak so that bacteria doesn't have a cranny to crawl into.

Thanks for all the suggestions, as well as patience for not saying, "hey new guy, just stop worrying about it and do it this way!"

I'll consider this a learning lesson and pay closer attention to the chosen stock for the next board I produce, especially since that one will likely be a gift for someone.

I'll post back once I do some more work on it, after the chisel flies.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Ok Jonathon
It's going to be a big job chiseling end grain. how about this? Make a pattern of a square the same size as the ones you want to replace ( this pattern is a square hole cut in some 1/4 Ply) and clamp it over the squares one at a time and use a router an a rub collar aka guide and router out say a 1/4" deep at a time. after going all the way through use a chisel to clean it up whats left.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

You can also use the same technique just to replace the top 1/4" or so.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

Jim, You mean a bigger hammer won't work? 

Well shoot, I better practice on a scrap piece of end grain maple then. I don't have a router guide/rub collar, although I suppose it would probably be a good thing to have.

I will see what I can do. My dad let me borrow his smaller 1/4-inch shank bits and I think there's something in there that might suffice? I will play around on some scrap end grain maple and see what I can do before tackling the board itself.


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## reggiek (Jun 12, 2009)

I would bandsaw the pieces out and replace. I have seen repairs to cutting boards that just don't make it. The main reason is that a cutting board (if used) is constantly getting wet then dry - so it is experiencing temendous expansion and contraction stress. A crack, even though repaired is like a magnet for the stress…and even though you epoxy it…you will typically find that the wood will crack on either side of the repair. If this board is meant for decoration - you do not need to replace….just repair.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Cracks will harbor bacteria if left unrepaired and would render the cutting board unsanitary if used around raw food. Most everywhere you go the local Board of Health requires a restaurant to have a separate cutting board each for fish, for beef, for chicken and for pork. Cross-contamination is always a potential problem.


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## Nomad62 (Apr 20, 2010)

My first thought was to rout out a groove, then inlay a stripe in. You may even use a different wood for cosmetic variation and run the inlay across the whole board if the cracks line up?


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

Nomad62, your idea is another viable option. I will have to consider this, as a band of end grain cherry running vertically from top to bottom might look acceptable, although it won't be one band, but multiple bands.

I have also been thinking about just ripping through each checked area on the table saw and then gluing the board back together. I think I only need to rip 3-4 columns worth of the board, but for congruity's sake, I would probably rip every column so they are proportionately identical. That will only shorten the width of the board by about 1-1.5-inches, depending on if one saw kerf width is sufficient per column of blocks. This would allow for probably the quickest and most foolproof outcome, as the lines will be clean-cut and the glue joints should be consistent. I'm thinking this approach would work well, as the checks are fairly vertical in nature and one saw kerf width/column would likely be sufficient to completely eliminate the checked area of the maple throughout the entirety of the board.

The only issue I can see with this approach is creating more full-length glue joints, and decreasing the width of the board. However, it will also give me an opportunity to flip a few pieces and see if I like the design better that way. I might just give this idea a shot.

Whatever I do, I'd like to get it done this weekend so I can hand the board over to my beautiful and virtuously patient wife… after I finish it, of course.


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## barryvabeach (Jan 25, 2010)

Jon, definitely go with the rip cuts. The glue length joints should be fine. I have an old cutting board someone gave us years ago and it probably a half inch narrower than when we got it . Every few years it develops a split, I do a rip cut, and then glue it back together, and it is fine for quite some time. I am sure you won't have to repeat this, but I can tell you that it works fine to spit it and reglue.


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## Porosky (Mar 10, 2009)

Rip all the rows and flip em for even more checkerboard sounds like a good idea.


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## NedB (Aug 21, 2008)

Those cracks are 'trapped', and since it is for your own use, as your First board (congrats on that by the way) just use it and go. At most I would fire up the ROS, build up a fair amount of sawdust near the crack, then put a little TB III in the crack and put the sawdust in there for filler.

It's a User for your family. It should be fine.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

OK, just measured the most offending checks and they appear to go across the grain 7/64-inch or less, so one perfectly aligned pass through the TS should eliminate the check on each of 7-columns, although I think only 4-columns have visible check marks. That means I'll be shaving about 1-inch off the width of the board as I've decided I'm just going to re-rip every column so they're consistently sized. Then I'll play around with the flipping of pieces, glue it back together, resand, router the edges, put some feet on it, finish it, and call it good.

My frustration has turned back into excitement again to complete this board. I'll update you all once things are back under way, either later today, or definitely tomorrow. I'll also try to post some more pictures along the way, including the original design layout vs. the possibility of flipping the freshly cut pieces.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

This could well become an expensive butcher block, as determined by man-hours invested in design, construction, after the fact worry, posts and so forth. Cool. Perhaps your most expensive piece so far. I have a few hundred of those floating around (everywhere from Washington to Texas, with a few in someones' backyard bonfire).

One more possibility is to run rip cuts down an inch or so and then fill them with splines. Obviously, these are "planned decorative touches."

If anymore cracks or separations appear, you really should consider addressing the matter of wood shrinkage (back to my oil ramblings).


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

Before I rip the checks out, I'll take some blue tape and put them over the check marks and then take a picture so that everyone can see where they are at within the board. Again, they're only on the left side of the board, but I want to keep things congruent, so I'll rip everything down accordingly.

This board will only take another couple of hours to finish, so I'm not worried about the expense, be it time, materials, whatever you want to gauge it on. I definitely invested way more time in the picture frame for my friend… a lot more time.

Everything takes longer when first starting out, but I've already noticed a change in my learning curve, especially once I've used the tool or technique a few times.

In addition, learning from my mistakes should help save time in the future, as well as allow me to think about and solve problems in multiple ways.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

Just a quick update… I cut all of the checks out and totally changed the pattern of the board. I also reglued it and will begin reworking it in the morning. I need to clean up the top and bottom edge on the tablesaw, plus put my new Porter Cable 371K belt sander to work in leveling the front and back sides out.

I actually like the new pattern better than the old one, even though the board has shrunk in size. It's now a little less than 16-inches wide. I ended up leaving one little end column off (about 1/2-inch), as it was incongruous with the rest of the new design.

I have changed my mind on the way I'm going to finish it. I am going to use the General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish. I will also be putting feet on the bottom after the finish is applied.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

Wow, maybe I should just burn this board! No, I have to cut something, besides my teeth, on it!

Pulled it out of the clamps this morning and noticed several small, but nonetheless, present, gaps between a couple of the columns. Guess I didn't get enough glue to fill them in. I'm not going to speculate as to the issue, but I think I know what it is. Doesn't matter now. I just need to fix it.

I'm wondering if the best way is going to be to mix some Titebond III with some of the sawdust I saved from sanding it just now for 2+hours in the alley to try and even everything out, or if I should use some of the sawdust and wetsand it in with the Salad Bowl Finish for the first coat? Never having used that finish before, I'm not sure how that would work?

The only saving grace here is that I learned a LOT from this board and that it is staying in my kitchen. If it falls apart on me, oh well. And it will probably only be used to cut vegetables. I am definitely using the Salad Bowl Finish now to seal it as best I can.

Sorry to vent, and if you've made it this far, thanks for reading!


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

OK, after calming down a bit and now having a clearer head, I have decided to cut this thing and reglue it… again! The good news is, I only need to make a couple of cuts and then maybe one or two others, just for the sake of keeping all of the columns at the same widths.

The good news is, nothing is getting flipped and I am making sure to load the thing up on glue, plus make sure all of my joints are totally clean and flush this time.

This is the never-ending and maybe (never-completed!,) end-grain cutting board.

I just can't stand turning out a sub-par project, so I will continue on with this until there is either nothing left of the board, or nothing left of me.

I am just not divulging what "nothing left of the board" means right now!


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## Nomad62 (Apr 20, 2010)

Sounds like you are having a time of it…with all due respect, I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one with issues like this, lol. Anyway, way to stick with it. If it isn't right when you get done with it you will never respect all of the time and effort you put into it. I'm looking forward to a photo.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

Nomad62, yes, definitely a learning experience (or something along those lines)! It is taking far more time than I imagined. I'm sure the next one will go more quickly and with less snags. That's assuming I get done with this one before it's the size of a coaster!

I'd have to agree… do it right the first time, or it's not worth doing! (Maybe I should put that in my signature line?)


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

OK, this board is almost finished! I will be relieved when it is completed.

I recut the board down a little bit, removing all but 1-wind check. I actually made a couple more strategic cuts to remove an 1/8" (kerf thickness) to keep everything balanced out and all of the blocks the same corresponding sizes. The one little wind check that remains is in an area that is away from where most food will but cut and/or sit, so it should be OK. In addition, I am using the General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish to try and seal the board a bit more thoroughly than the mineral oil/wax combination (which I think I'll use on the next board I make).

This has not detered me from making cutting boards. I simply know what to do and not do next time!

Before heading in to work yesterday morning, I got it all leveled back out and sanded down.

After work last night, I touched up a few places and sanded to 220-grit, then used a 1/4" roundover bit for the first time and freehanded the top edge this way. I then very lightly rounded over the bottom edge and the corners, just so they are not sharp.

Then it was time to begin applying the finish. I am following the WW salad bowl recommendation and thinned the finish with not quite 50% mineral spirits. I kept applying it, but never got it to come all the way through the bottom. I wonder if I thin it a bit more next time if that will help? I then wiped off the residual finish that seemed to want to sit on top and let it dry overnight.

This morning, I thinned the remaining finish out with more mineral spirits, so it was probably more like 40%-finish/60%-mineral spirits and then soaked the bottom thoroughly, but not before burning my signature and 2010 into the bottom on a block of maple. I also hit the sides again and did a smooth coat on the top, then wiped it all down so as not to form a film.

I will probably wait until tomorrow to sand to 400, then apply the final coat.

I am also going to be putting the rubber feet on the bottom so that it doesn't move around on the countertop and so that the underside can easily dry without having to set it up on-end.

Almost done!

When I am finished, I will post it up as a project with plenty of pictures, dimensions, etc. I don't believe I have seen a board with this (accidental) pattern on it, so it should be a bit unique.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

Just a quick update here: Late last night, I lightly sanded the board down on all sides with 400-grit paper and then dusted it off with a Swiffer cloth. I had made the mistake of dusting another project off with a Swiffer because the surface of that project ended up snagging lots of little fibers from the cloth. I decided to try it again last night though after I ran my hand over the entire board. It felt much smoother than the project I had problems with before (the Kentucky Derby drink tray from earlier this month)http://lumberjocks.com/projects/31450. I sat there for quite a while with the try, picking little tiny cloth fibers out of the oak bottom.

I didn't have any issues with the Swiffer sticking and leaving fibers behind at all, not one. It did a great job of getting the dust off the cutting board.

I then added the final coat of Salad Bowl finish/mineral spirits blend. I let it sit for a couple of minutes and then wiped down the top with a clean cloth so as not to have a film left behind on the top.

Now it just needs to sit and fully cure, which should be done by Wednesday. The only other thing I need to do is attach the 4-little rubbery-plastic feet to the bottom of the board.

For all of you that have helped out on this project, I thank you! Here are a couple of pictures of the bottom of the board as it looks right now:
(No flash
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac173/jjgelaude/End%20Grain%20Cutting%20Board/cuttingboard028.jpg

(With flash
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac173/jjgelaude/End%20Grain%20Cutting%20Board/cuttingboard031.jpg

I will be posting the finished project in a few days with more pictures, but thought it would be nice to give you a sneak peak for hanging in there with me throughout this ordeal.


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