# Shopmade Luthier Tools



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Series Intro*










I'm starting to gather together and make a few tools that will be dedicated to lutherie, that is, the building and repair of stringed instruments which are usually made of wood. Having a dedicated lutherie kit will just make my life easier than walking back and forth in the shop grabbing the needed tool. Many of these will likely end up in a stand, box, or drawer for easy access while doing repairs.

From the sound of things, learning to re-hair violin bows and the like is a good, lucrative goal, so these first tools will be generally for that purpose. Some will have a wood component, but a few might not.

Watch this page. As I go, I'll link to each tool in a list here:

- *Blunt pusher*
- *Bow vise*
- *Bridge fitting jig * (cello)
- *Bridge fitting jig for violin*
- *F-hole Cleat clamps*
- *Flat file*
- *Hair gauge* 
- *Hair gauge* (new and improved model)
- *Hook*
- *Knife*
- *Neck clamps for Violin, cello, etc.*
- *Pick*
- *Rotary File/Chamfer tool*
- *Scraper knife*
- *Small sound post setting tool*
- *Sound hole clamps*
- *Sound post plier*
- *String jack for cello*
- *String jack for violin*
- *Tiny chisel*
- *Tiny rat tail file*
- *Violin Crack Clamp*
- *Violin opening tool*

- Etc.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Dave10 said:


> *Series Intro*
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Look forward to it.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Series Intro*
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> Look forward to it.
> 
> - Rick M


I think you'll like the bow vise when I get to it.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Series Intro*
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I've alphabetized the list to neaten it up.


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## iamcliff (Jul 4, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Series Intro*
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Mojose! Mi jam vidis vian zimbalonon, sed ĉu vi iam faris gitaron aŭ violonon? Se ne, ĉu vi intencas fari ilin aŭ nur ripari ilin?


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Series Intro*
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> Mojose! Mi jam vidis vian zimbalonon, sed ĉu vi iam faris gitaron aŭ violonon? Se ne, ĉu vi intencas fari ilin aŭ nur ripari ilin?
> 
> - Chris McDowell


Ne zimbalon, sed dolcimeron. Zimbalon oni frapas per marteletoj. Dolcimeron oni plektras. Mi havas en mia listo intencon fari rondsuban violonon, skatol-gitaron, kaj eĉ biskvitujan banĝon.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Series Intro*
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I've added an improved hair gauge and a bridge fitting jig to the list above.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Series Intro*
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Just added sound hole clamps to the list.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Series Intro*
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Added the string jack to the list.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Series Intro*
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Added the string jack and bridge fitting jig for violin


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Series Intro*
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Just added a link to my brass sound post setting tool.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Series Intro*
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I've added a link to my Violin/cello neck clamps to the list. [link]


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Series Intro*
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I've added the Rotary File/Chamfer tool to the list [link]


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Series Intro*
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I've added the Violin Crack Clamp to the list. See it here: [link]


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Series Intro*
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Just added a sound post plier to the list [link]


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Series Intro*
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Just added F-hole cleat clamps to the list. [link]


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*I can handle this file!*










One of the tools I'm going to need for my (hopefully) career in instrument repair is a common file. Judging by the photos of appropriate tools I've found on the internet, this one should work well. It was a spare I had, possibly one I got from my dad's estate. I cleaned it up and decided to put a handle on it.

I grabbed a scrap of walnut and cut it to appropriate length. Then I drilled a hole in one end to accept the tang of the file. Then I drove the file into the hole and cracked the wood. No worries! I took the file out, rounded off the hole end of the handle and found a piece of plumbing to use as a ferrule. I put the file back into the hole. It stuck and feels solid.

Then I rounded and shaped the handle with a small block plane, rasp, and my random orbit sander. The cracks stayed, but that's okay. The handle is solid and everything looks like a pre-antiqued old-timey tool. I gave the handle a good wipe down with boiled linseed oil for the finish.

Lesson I learned: install the ferrule BEFORE driving in the file!

(I should really make handles for the remaining collection of my files AND make a convenient place to put them that is NOT in a pile in my cabinet.)

Check out the other luthier tools I've made here:[link]


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

Dave10 said:


> *I can handle this file!*
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A problem I have with pre-made file handles is that in some cases, the hole drilled is too big for the file. Guess I'll be following your lead and making some of my own handles in the future. Thanks for the inspiration.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Tiny chisel/scraper*










Even though this is technically a chisel, it is used principally as a scraper to get hardened glue out of the small wells in a violin bow where the ends of the hair hank are anchored. I fashioned the blade of this chisel from the Phillips screw driver 'blade' of an old, low quality pocket knife. It was not a genuine Swiss Army knife, but a bad, cheap knockoff. The blades loosened up after a few years and the knife lived in my tool box for 'just in case'. I generally always carry a pocket knife, so I didn't need it.

After mounting the blade in the rough handle I ground it to shape with my belt grinder. The ease of which it ground concerns me, but if it proves unsatisfactory, I'll just make a better one out of an old drill bit like I saw on a Stumpy Nubbs/Mustache Mike video not long ago. I have a few old paddle bits that I could use for that.

The handle is a scrap of walnut and the ferrule is a plumbing compression ring. I finished it with the usual boiled linseed oil.

One more down.

Check out the other luthier tools I've made here:[link]


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## Planeman41 (Dec 19, 2016)

Dave10 said:


> *Tiny chisel/scraper*
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Nice! Ain't it satisfying to work with tools you have made! : )

Planeman


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Tiny chisel/scraper*
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> Nice! Ain t it satisfying to work with tools you have made! : )
> 
> Planeman
> 
> - Planeman41


Yeah. Shopmade tools are a win/win. I enjoy making them and I enjoy using them. If you saw the price of this stuff in luthier catalogs… Actually it's a win/win/win since I haven't spent a cent to make these!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Knife*










The luthier's knife looks very much to me like a common carpenter's striking or marking knife. Be that as it may, I don't have either, so I made one.

I started with an old, dull 3/4 inch spade bit. I marked a 45 degree angle on it and grouned it down with my bench grinder, keeping it cool with frequent water dippings. I then used my belt grinder to put a bevel on one side of the blade. I honed it to sharpness on a whetstone. It's not scary sharp, but it's sharp.

For the handle I took a scrap piece of walnut and cut it to rough size. I drilled a hole in one end to fit the shank of the bit into. fitted a copper ferrule around the hole and forced the bit shank into the hole. Some sanding and shaping followed. I finished it with boiled linseed oil. I think it looks pretty cool too.

Check out the other luthier tools I've made here:[link]


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

Dave10 said:


> *Knife*
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Great idea, I bet we all have a couple broken bits laying around to do this.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


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> Great idea, I bet we all have a couple broken bits laying around to do this.
> 
> - Tim Dahn


I know that mine was sitting in a can waiting for me to 'someday' try sharpening it.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Tiny knife/scraper*










While we're on the subject of knives, this one, while it is a knife, will principally be used as a scraper in tight spaces. The blade began life as the awl in the cheap pocket knife that I mentioned a few posts ago. The handle is a scrap of white oak from the hardwood scrap drawer. (I have a hardwood scrap box as well.) The knife was finished with boiled linseed oil.

Check out the other luthier tools I've made here:[link]

Enjoy a few more pictures:


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Brass hair gauge*










*What's a hair gauge you ask?*










When a luthier re-hairs a violin bow, or a bow of any of the other bowed instruments, they don't just cram a bunch of horse hair into the little anchor holes. There is a certain yet indefinite amount of hair required for each type of bow. Greatly experienced professionals can pretty much gauge it by their hands, but some like to do it scientifically.

Hair gauges are available for purchase and there are several types. There's even one available in brass! However they can be pricey and I'm on a perpetual shoestring budget. The most inexpensive one I found was $10.00 and consisted of a piece of wood with a kerf sawn into it with handwritten markings for the requirements of each type of bow.

I made mine from a piece of thick brass about 3 inches long by 1/2 inch. I sawed a kerf with a hacksaw as straight as I could. (I just now thought of a possible way to saw it straiiter, go figure.) Then I sanded the kerf to smooth it and attempt to straighten it as I made it a bit wider. I finally got it to the point where I could use my belt grinder. I put semi-accurate marks on it, centimeters on one side, quarter inches on the other.

Is it pretty? I can improve that. Will it work? I'm confident of it. Is it brass? YES!

I just need to calibrate it with a violin bow that doesn't yet need re-hairing. My wife the musician says she can help borrow one for me.

Check out the other luthier tools I've made here:[link]


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Pick*










Call this a pick or a bodkin. It is chiefly used to nudge out the maple 'wedges' that hold the horse hair in at either end of a bow. I made mine from half of one of those nut picks that come with nut cracker sets. After cutting the nut pick in two, I chucked it in my electric drill (corded) and sharpened it on my belt grinder till it gained a nice long point. Then I mounted it in a scrap piece of white oak with a copper ferrule. The handle was finished with boiled linseed oil.

I used the other end of the nut pick to make the hook tool [link].

Check out the other luthier tools I've made here:[link]


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Hook*










This tool is made from the business end of one of those nut picks that come with nut cracking sets. In a video about bow re-hairing I saw the technician using a tool like this to push the abalone slide back over the hair on the frog end of the bow. I sad to myself 'I can make one of those!'










After cutting the nut pick in two, I mounted it in a scrap piece of white oak and strengthened it witrh a ferrule. Even so, I learned that the hole you drill to accept the tool needs to be the proper depth (see below). I sanded the wood and finished it with boiled linseed oil. I used the other end of the nut pick to make the pick tool [link].

Check out the other luthier tools I've made here:[link]

[*Below*] I discovered that if the hole is not deep enough, it's not effective to just drive the tool in with a hammer. I ended up remaking the wooden handle.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Tiny file with Cheap-A handle*










In one of the videos I watched on bow re-hairing, it was sugested that a tiny rat tail file would come in handy. I happen to have a double set of tiny files, so I thought I'd put a handle on the one I apparently need. I took one of the easily discarded wooden handles from a used foam brush and drilled out the plastic tang that remained in the handle.

Then I fit a copper ferrule on it and glued in the file. (The hole was just a bit loose for the file tang.) I did a bit of sanding on it and finished with… boiled linseed oil.

Check out the other luthier tools I've made here:[link]


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## Northwest29 (Aug 1, 2011)

Dave10 said:


> *Tiny file with Cheap-A handle*
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I love it when people re-purpose stuff to make it usable again. Good job and I have a couple of small files that could use a handle as well. TNX for tip.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Blunt push stick*










If this looks like a screwdriver with the business end cut off, you're not far off. One of the luthiers I watched used just that to push the little maple plugs/wedges in to secure the hair in the bow.

I decided to make mine from scratch anyway. The handle is a scrap piece of mahogany this time with a ferrule attached. The push stick is a piece of rod from an old pendaflex folder frame. I just made sure I slightly rounded the business end and smoothed it so that it wouldn't damage anything through scratching.

The finish was the standard boiled linseed oil.

Check out the other luthier tools I've made here:[link]


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Get a grip on your bow!*










See more photos on my project page [link]

A bow vise is used to hold a violin bow while replacing the horse hair that vibrates the strings. I started by looking up such a thing and finding photos of (mostly) the commercially available models. Then I printed out a few screen shots for the details. I didn't absolutely duplicate the commercial model, but I got something that will work.

The wood is oak throughout. A few bibs and bobs of the hardware will be replaced with brass once I get to a hardware store. The frog clamp is mounted to the base with a single screw. I did this thinking that if I mounted it a little bit out of alignment that in might end up bending the bow stick. To cushion the grip on the bow and thus prevent scratching the finish, I lined the tip cradle and the frog clamp with pieces from my old leather jacket. Finally a used for that!

The finish is boiled linseed oil.

Check out the other luthier tools I've made here:[link]


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Etc.*










I haven't learned to make these items yet. A pair of pliers, mine are parallel pliers that I got from a friend, a good pair of hair cutting scissors, and a fine tooth comb.


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## DRSWoody (Aug 16, 2014)

Dave10 said:


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I have some parallel pliers like those. Very handy for many uses where regular pliers won't work.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Violin opening knife*










A violin opening knife is a very thin, semi-flexible wide-bladed tool used to separate the parts of a violin. The glue used to hold such instruments together is brittle and will let go under stress. Apparently that is a feature, not a flaw.










For mine, I was too cheap and impatient to find a thin cheese knife, so I took a dollar store spackle knife and after removing the blade from the plastic handle and trimming it down, I sandwiched it between two pieces of mahogany with epoxy. When that was set up, I shaped the handle and further thinned down the blade on my belt grinder. N.B. he blade is not sharp, but just very thin to get between the joints of the instrument. The finish was boiled linseed oil.

Check out the other luthier tools I've made here:[link]










[*Below*] mandatory glue up photo!


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## makeBrooklyn (Aug 20, 2016)

Dave10 said:


> *Violin opening knife*
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Excellent, there is great satisfaction in making things and even more when you use tools you made to do it.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Violin opening knife*
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> Excellent, there is great satisfaction in making things and even more when you use tools you made to do it.
> 
> - makeBrooklyn


Agreed. What like the most about it is that no one else will have one exactly like it. My design, my style!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*2 chisels rehandled*










I had two chisels without handles. The flatter one is from of old. It was from my dad's stuff. It's purpose when I was growing up was to pry open the old 'extra' refrigerator we had in the basement. The handle of the fridge had broken somewhere in my pre-history. The handle on the chisel was clear yellow plastic. The plastic broke some years ago when I was using the chisel to do chisel stuff. Surprise! It lived for some time in one of my tool boxes, handleless. On the blade I can make out the brand 'Pioneer' but a Google search does not reveal a similar chisel anywhere.



















The larger one is from a set of Durex brand that I got soon after getting married. It's handle snapped off in use one day. The others from the set are still intact. I wonder if I have the right to replace the plastic handles so that they all match?










The handles that I put on these were some sort of square spindle with a tenon on each end. I cut the piece in half make two nice sized handles. The tenon is just a tiny bit oversize for the copper ferrules, but that gives then a good tight fit. Easy peasy job as they say. I did lightly sand the new handles and then treated them with the standard boiled linseed oil. They look a bit antiquey, but 'll sharpen them up. One is a 1 inch chisel, the other 1/2 inch. It has a nick in it.

These aren't meant to be hammered on and I'm likely only to be paring with them in lutherie.


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## makeBrooklyn (Aug 20, 2016)

Dave10 said:


> *2 chisels rehandled*
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Nice, I love giving old beat up tools a new life!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *2 chisels rehandled*
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> Nice, I love giving old beat up tools a new life!
> 
> - makeBrooklyn


Sometimes I really miss having an antique store near me that had tools. The nearest one around is a bit out of my way. I put off making handles for these for quite some time because I thought it would be hard to do.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Improved bow hair gauge out of brass*










My first hair gauge [link] wasn't quite what I wanted it to be so I kept an upgrade in the back of my head. The other night I spotted this string gauge [Below] and it inspired me to make something extremely similar to measure bow hair.










I made this new hair gauge using brass strip 1/2 inch wide and about 2 inches long. I used a wood coffee stirer to space them apart about 1/16 of an inch and soldered a brass cleat along one edge on both sides. Then I cleaned it up with my bench grinder, random orbit sander and a polishing block. I drilled a hole in the joined end to allow a lanyard for hanging. Theoretically I will hang this near the hank of hair, which, from what I've seen, is usually stored in the hanging position.

I used my re-haired 4/4 bow and my new Cheap-A 1/4 size bow to mark the volume of hair for each. The marks are not very far apart, so I doubt that I'll need marks for a 1/2 size or 3/4 size. We'll see what happens when I get into viola, cello, and base bows. Effectively I have 4 surfaces to make marks, one for each type of instrument so I should be okay.

Check out the other luthier tools I've made here:[link]


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *Improved bow hair gauge out of brass*
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Nicely upgraded, Dave!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*A few hole clamps*










I made these in anticipation of someday being tasked to repair cracks in violins. I made them from a, (or a few) Pend-A-flex hanger frames (one is shown above framing the three clamps.) The U-shaped part is threaded on both ends, while the straight bar has a threadable through hole in each end. I simply bent the frames into a C shape as small as possible on my machinists vise and fit either a 1/4 inch bolt or a #10 bolt in an appropriate hole. The smallest of the three I had to flatted then end to drill and tap it. This is a start, but 'll be building a collection of these in various sizes. You can't have too many clamps!

Check out the other luthier tools I've made here:[link]

[*Below*] This is one thing he clamps are used for:










[*Below*] This is the commercial style that I was aiming for:










[*Below*]: The sort of oval shaped one with the two screws is more of a guitar bridge clamp, but it could come in handy regardless:


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *A few hole clamps*
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Dave, you are really inspirational in your manufacture of these lutherie tools. I applaud you, sir!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *A few hole clamps*
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> Dave, you are really inspirational in your manufacture of these lutherie tools. I applaud you, sir!
> 
> - CFrye


Thanks Candy! Sometimes I think a shoestring budget is what gives me what little cleverness I have. I'm hoping this series will be a resource for others who may follow my path. I'm told there aren't an overabundance of people who can do what I'm learning.

Unfortunately there's at least one tool I'll need to buy as it's precision engineered. It's also (to me) a bit pricey. When I get it, I'll be making a case to keep it in for safety.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*String jack or lifter for cello*










This is a device that lifts the strings off of the bridge of a musical instrument so that the bridge can be removed during the fitting/adjustment process. I think i first saw one of these in a video on YouTube. After looking it up, I decided it was definitely something I could make. It's basically a thick bridge, this one is for a 3/4 cello, which has a top piece which lifts with the assistance of a screw. The top piece runs on guides. The commercial products run in slides on the sides while homemade ones I've seen use a pair of dowels in the body of the tool.










Judging by the color of the grain, mine is made of poplar. I chose it because it was a convenient piece of 1/2 inch thick material. I added splines to the edges for strength because the grain runs short. I used brass pins and a #10 screw for the hardware. I threaded the wood directly instead of adding a nut somewhere. I stained it with Golden oak stain to cover up the green grain color.

Check out the other luthier tools I've made here:[link]

[Below] Mandatory glue up photo. I made two blanks in case of mishap. I may also have a use for the second one










[Below] Someone else's collection of string lifters.










[Below] These pics should give an idea of how this is used.


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *String jack or lifter for cello*
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Aha! I didn't notice the notches on top until the last two images. Now, I see! This is fun to learn, Dave.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Violin bridge jigs*










It stands to reason that if I need bridge jigs for a cello, [link 1] [link 2] I'll need bridge jigs for a violin as well. I made these out of some scrap wood. The bridge fitting jig (on the right above) was made from oak. The string jack/lifter is from poplar. I made the blank for it at the time I made the blank for the cello string lifter.

Brass hardware gives a tiny touch of class to jigs which are very utilitarian.

I finished the string lifter with golden oak stain and the bridge fitting jig with danish oil.

Check out the other luthier tools I've made here:[link]

[Below] I had to cut the tail off the bridge fitter because I made it too long. I refitted the wheel to the shorter tail.










[Below] Here's what a commercial bridge fitter looks.










A few more pics:



















Family photo of the cello and violin jigs:










Here's a picture of the bridge jig in use on a 3/4 violin.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Violin bridge jigs*
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I'm convinced that string jacks are just ugly ducklings.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Violin bridge jigs*
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I added a picture of the bridge jig in use.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Violin bridge jigs*
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I added a picture of the bridge jig in use.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Small size sound post setter*










I already own two violin size sound post setting tools which I purchased online. The other day I was setting a sound post in a less than full size instrument and I got the feeling I was stretching the limits of the tool. I got the post set successfully, but it entered my mind that a smaller tool might be handy for if I should have to work on a 1/4 size violin or smaller someday.

So today I went down into my woodshop, took a piece of 1/4 iinch flat brass and went to work with the grinder shaping the profile of the pick end and the hook end. I soldered on a cross piece for the hook because it needs to be able to push, pull, and tap the post into position. The semi-circle indents were formed with a rattail file. The pick end was formed by giving the bar a 1/4 twist and shaping the point like the one I already own.

This tool is about 3/4 size of the standard sound post setting tool and should serve me well when the need arises. For anyone who has no idea what the heck I'm talking about, here is a short Youtube video showing a sound post being inserted into a cello. The principle is the same as a violin, although the tools and instrument are larger.






A few pictures of my tool in progress:



















See the other Luthier tools I've made. [link]


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *Small size sound post setter*
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Nice work Dave. I've been following your luthier blogs, the enthusiasm is infectious. Well done!

This Chinese double bass post setter was $25 when the time comes.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Small size sound post setter*
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> Nice work Dave. I ve been following your luthier blogs, the enthusiasm is infectious. Well done!
> 
> This Chinese double bass post setter was $25 when the time comes.
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Thanks. I'm glad I'm not just posting to myself. Thankfully I have not had to work on a Bass yet, though there are some in the shop. I have an extensive Watch list on eBay and as money comes in from book sales I make decisins as to what I need to buy next. The post setting tools for these instruments actually come in a set of 3:










From top to bottom you see the sound post setter, a sound post gauge (measures the length needed within the instrument), and a post retriever for when they are rattling around inside the instrument. I think my cello tools would work on a bass that isn't full size, but eventually I'll need to take the plunge on these.

I have a violin peg shaver and reamer headed my way currently as well.


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Small size sound post setter*
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I am enjoying your luthier blog also. I also followed your dulcimer build and I hold you completely responsible for me building a four string mountain dulcimer and I am about halfway thru with a second one. I have ideas for a third also.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/305514


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Small size sound post setter*
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> 
> ...





> I am enjoying your luthier blog also. I also followed your dulcimer build and I hold you completely responsible for me building a four string mountain dulcimer and I am about halfway thru with a second one. I have ideas for a third also.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/305514
> 
> - johnstoneb


I'll accept the blame for inspiring you. You do beautiful work.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Neck Clamps for Violin, Cello, etc...*










There are at least two instruments in the shop that need necks reattached. I was shown how to do this when the entire neck is detached, but two cellos are broken at the joint and the method shown me might not work so well. Google to the rescue! I found photos of commercially available models, selling for multiple tens of dollars, and decided I could make my own.










I used some of the mahogany at my disposal, some 3/8 in. threaded rod, and some sheet cork I was given a few years ago. Failng that, I would have used some leather I have around the shop. I had to purchase 4 wing nuts for the rod, but I had plenty of nuts for the opposite ends. Some clear tubing was also purchased to slip on the rod to protect the instrument from the saw-like edges of the thread.

Mandatory Glue-up photo. I attached a small disk to the 'bottom' pieces to better focus the pressure of the clamp on the 'button' of the neck. This is also a feature of the plain, faceless commercial models.










Cork shown on the concave upper jaw and on the disk of the bottom jaw.










Violin clamp shown as it woukld be used, though it would be best to remove the strings before making any repair.










See the other Luthier tools I've made. [link]


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Neck Clamps for Violin, Cello, etc...*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Tools are looking good. I am enjoying following this blog.


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Neck Clamps for Violin, Cello, etc...*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Tools are looking good. I am enjoying following this blog.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Neck Clamps for Violin, Cello, etc...*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Tools are looking good. I am enjoying following this blog.
> 
> - johnstoneb


Perhaps as much as I enjoy making custom made tools for my new trade. Starting in May, I should have time to start some woodworking again.


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *Neck Clamps for Violin, Cello, etc...*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


More useful tools, Dave. Good thinking on the plastic tubing protectors!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Neck Clamps for Violin, Cello, etc...*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> More useful tools, Dave. Good thinking on the plastic tubing protectors!
> 
> - CFrye


Thanks, Candy. Unfortunately I can;t take credit for the tubing. I saw it on a video.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Copper Pencil extender*










I know this is reaching a little bit. I made this pencil extender to use in the music shop because I keep a pencil in a pocket of my apron and as it gets shorter and shorter, There comes a point where I can't easily reach it. this way it is kept at pretty much the length of a pencil.

I made it from a piece of copper pipe just over the inner diameter of a random pencil I grabbed. The end is capped and the open end has half of an extension sleeve on it. I drilled and tapped a 6-32 hole in that collar to hold the pencil from retracting and getting lost.


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Copper Pencil extender*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I like that. I have a bunch of too short pencils


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Copper Pencil extender*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> I like that. I have a bunch of too short pencils
> 
> - johnstoneb


I'm apparently fixated with pencils. Here's another solution I came up with.

http://lumberjocks.com/Dave10/blog/62442


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Rotary File/Hole Chamfer tool*










In looking around for the best buys on the tools I actually have to buy versus make to repair bowed string insytruments, I encountered a tool that I haven't missed having-yet. Seeing that it's looks like a counter sink bit on a handle, I made one.



















The handle is a turned spindle that I saved from a piece of furniture for just such a use. I just had to shorten it and drill a hole in one end to accept the counter sink bit on one end. I glued it in with epoxy and gave the wood a good coat of boiled linseed oil. I do plan on making stringed instruments, so this will get some use. It's purpose is to very slightly chamfer the outer edge of tuning peg holes so that there's no flash to interfere with the peg.

Below you can see a commercial model demonstrating its use.


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *Rotary File/Hole Chamfer tool*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Handy little tool, Dave!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Rotary File/Hole Chamfer tool*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Handy little tool, Dave!
> 
> - CFrye


Thanks. I figure I'll get some use out of it eventually.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Violin Crack Clamp*










Last week I found a violin in the bone pile that looks like it's trying to crack in half lengthwise. Not having any appropriate clamp to hold such a thing together for gluing, I put my mind to it and came up with this clamp.










I made it out of 3/4 inch mahogany, using two pieces on each side. I did that so that I could easily create the groove on the inside of the curved parts to engage the lip on the edge of the violin. The groove is shallow so the clamp body won't press on the rib/sides of the instrument. I lined the inside with leather to prevent marring of the finish. A 1/4 inch bolt runs through the one end of the clamp to provide pressure. The shape of the clamp, causes it to 'hug' the instrument. If needed I can always put a bar clamp on the other end, but I don't see that as being necessary.

The only down side of this kind of clamp is that I will have to make one for each size instrument. This one in particular is for a 1/2 size violin. Most of the instruments in the shop are 3/4 or 4/4, so I'll need to make at least two more of these sooner or later.

More Pics:



















Mandatory Glue up pic:










Check out the other tools I've made for this craft! [link]


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Violin Crack Clamp*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well done, great thinking.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Violin Crack Clamp*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Violin Crack Clamp*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Very GoodDave,

It could also double as a head rest when you are having a snooze in the workshop!

No on a nore serious note, (thats a pun)

What brand are the orange clamps I see they look like very good quality .

A possible hint: Make the clamp for the bigest instrument and then use EPE or similar as a size filler when working on smaller instruments.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Violin Crack Clamp*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Very GoodDave,
> 
> It could also double as a head rest when you are having a snooze in the workshop!
> 
> ...


The orange clamps are Jorgensen (light duty) bar clamps (6 in.). I bought then from Sears for about $6 ea. They haven't disappointed me yet and I keep them handy right on the work bench.

[reminds me that I should do an article about my workbench. It's not perfect yet, but I generally like it.]

I'm not sure your suggestion would work, but I may try it. I'll be making a similar clamp for my 4/4 size fiddle and I'll try your idea with that if I should need to clamp a violin smaller than that. It's likely to happen. 3/4 violins are very common in school rentals.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Violin Crack Clamp*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Very GoodDave,
> 
> What brand are the orange clamps I see they look like very good quality .
> 
> - robscastle


I might mention that I call those clamps 'Fred' clamps because they are F-style clamps.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Brass sound post plier*










This is a tool that is used to adjust the position of a sound post in a violin. A sound post is like a length of dowel that is wedged between the top and back of a string instrument to help transmit the sound from the strings to the back (little more complicated actually, but that explanation will suffice.)

I bought one of these that is about 8 inches, but discovered during use on the smaller violins that a more petite model would be handy. I used two 6 inch brass rulers, $1 each on eBay. I printed out a photo of a comercial model and used it as a template. I love my hand made tools.










[*Above*] The one at top is my store bought plier. The lower one is my hand made one.










[*Above and below*] Showing about what this is used for. A different too is used to get the sound post in and retrieve it (when necessary.
)









[*Below*] I made my own rivet from a brass screw. I ground off the slotin the head, cut it to length, and crowned over the other side.










See the other tools I've made for my new craft! [link]


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass sound post plier*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Your luthier's tool box is quickly filling, Dave! Your version looks a tiny bit thinner than the store bought one. Is it still sturdy enough to do its job? Do you have a link for the eBay source?


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass sound post plier*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Your luthier s tool box is quickly filling, Dave! Your version looks a tiny bit thinner than the store bought one. Is it still sturdy enough to do its job? Do you have a link for the eBay source?
> 
> - CFrye


It is thinner, and I'll admit that I have yet to use it, but I think it will work since it's basically used to grab and pull little dowels. I guess we'll see.

This eBay item seems to be pretty persistant: [link] If all else fails, just search for 'brass ruler' and sort by lowest price.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass sound post plier*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Your luthier s tool box is quickly filling, Dave! Your version looks a tiny bit thinner than the store bought one. Is it still sturdy enough to do its job? Do you have a link for the eBay source?
> 
> - CFrye


Also, Candy,

I can foresee that sometime soon I will be making a 'clamp chest' for work. The old tool box that I'm currently using is about to bust.


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass sound post plier*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, I'm still a novice when it come to traversing eBay!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass sound post plier*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Thanks, I m still a novice when it come to traversing eBay!
> 
> - CFrye


It doesn't help much that every 6 months they change the look of the interface either.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass sound post plier*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Your luthier s tool box is quickly filling, Dave! Your version looks a tiny bit thinner than the store bought one. Is it still sturdy enough to do its job? Do you have a link for the eBay source?
> 
> - CFrye


I'm very happy to say that I had to use the plier on a 1/2 size violin today and it worked perfectly.


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass sound post plier*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> I m very happy to say that I had to use the plier on a 1/2 size violin today and it worked perfectly.
> 
> - Dave Rutan


YAY!!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*More spool clamps*










I continue my acquisition of toolls for repairing cellos and contra basses. These add to the orignal dozen that I need for bssses and get me closrr to the two dozen I want to have for cellos.

FYI the dowel pieces for these were salvaged from an old snow shovel handle. Never throw a wooden handle out. It's just a big dowel after all. They cost $$ if you have to buy them!

[Below] Witness that my daughter's animals tend to cause trouble if left to themselves.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

Dave10 said:


> *More spool clamps*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice clamps, and I agree: never throw away an old handle. There's always something useful to be done with it.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*A few deep reach clamps*










I made one of these as an experiment and I ened up using it in the orchestral repair shop to hold two edges of a violin face crack. I figured it couldn't hurt to make a few more. Sometimes I have to repair multiple instruments in a day.










I made two sizes, 5 in. And 7 in deep with a capacity of 2-1/4 inches. Turns out this is a little small for a full size fiddle, but then most of our violins are 3/4 size and smaller. I'll make a few larger ones eventually for full size violins and violas.










The little black 'bandage' is a piece of inner tube to help the clamp grip the instrument and cushion it a bit. These clamps are always used with cauls and are too big to go inside the instrument through the F-hole.


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *A few deep reach clamps*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice. This is one of the many fun things about woodworking, if you need a specialized tool, you can make it.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Small brass soundpost setter*










I was looking around for pictures of violin soundpost setters when I found one on eBay with a ram's horn hook on one end (my term).

Its uniqueness attracted me, so I went down to my workshop, grabbed a length of 1/4 inch brass strip. I split one end with a hack saw and cold chisel and shaped the ram's horns with taps of a ball peen hammer. After I got that end to look satisfactory, I used files, my belt and disc sander, and a brass wire wheel to shape and polish the instrument. I actually had to use it today on a 1/2 size violin and it worked like a champ.




























[Below] Comparison of my ram's horn and a standard violin soundpost setter.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

Dave10 said:


> *Small brass soundpost setter*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sharp lookin' tool you made, Sir.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Small brass soundpost setter*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Sharp lookin tool you made, Sir.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Thanks, Dave!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Violin and Cello Stick Clamps*










I have a project coming up, so I'm gearing up beforehand. I have a cello to repair in a fairly major way. The larger clamps are for the cello, though they may be long enough for a double bass, or at least not a full size one. The smaller clamps are meant for violins, though they may even fit on a viola.

The sticks are 1/4" dowels and the heads are mahagony. There is a slight chance the heads might come off even though they are glued, so I may pin them before use.

The clamping pressure is applied manually. I figure the stick will be pulled through the head with the wingnut and pressure supplied by the thumb pressing on it. A great deal of pressure should not be required, just enough to hold things together for a while. The cushions you see are slices of a wine cork. The overhanging edge of the instrument should fit in the depression against the cork and thus not recieve damage.

These are finished with spray lacquer to help give the clamp heads something to bite into.




























Intended use:










Prototype:


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *Violin and Cello Stick Clamps*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Interesting, I've this sort of clamp.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Brass bridge templates and bevel gauge*



















To badly mis-paraphrase a character from Babylon 5, "Zathras wants to have something nice."

A while ago I made a set of templates out of plastic for creating the arc that is on the top of violin and cello bridges. I was determined that eventually I would replace them with brass ones once I found a source for the brass. Well, eBay sells this 5-inch brass ruler that is an inch wide for less than $2 each…

So I decided to start with a template for a full size violin and cello. I'll work down from there as I get material and will conquer the double bass bridge template last.

It's simple enough to trace the template onto the brass, cut them apart with a hack saw and sand them to final shape and they look cool with the remains of the ruler on the back. I also filed notches onto the bottom to denote the size. In this case, 4 notches means 4/4 (or full size.) 3 notches will mean 3/4, and when I get down to the 7/8 size bridge, I'll put 7 notches, 3 pairs with a single for easy ID-ing.










I also made a small, simple, bevel gauge because I've heard I'll need one in the craft eventually for transferring the angle on sound posts. I made it out of some brass flats that I had in my 'brass drawer.'





































Plastic may be a space age material, but I like old school for some things.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass bridge templates and bevel gauge*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Very nice. The bevel gauge looks useful in general.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass bridge templates and bevel gauge*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Very nice. The bevel gauge looks useful in general.
> 
> - WayneC


I was fortunate to have two thicknesses of the flat stock for the bevel gauge, 1/8 in. and 1/16 inch I think.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass bridge templates and bevel gauge*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks like Zathras can make nice things for himself.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass bridge templates and bevel gauge*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Looks like Zathras can make nice things for himself.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


I like the way they have the ruler on the back. Much better than ones stamped out in a factory somewhere. I'm not sure these are even available commercially.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Scraper, well sort of*










I wanted a set of small scrapers on the cheap, so I made a set out of a dollar store saw blade. The quality probably isn't like the ones made from real tool steel, but they do work. I've adjusted the shape of these since making them to reach certain areas of instruments.


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Scraper, well sort of*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Smart, making tools needed for a specific task is what the masters do, or did many years ago. But, they didn't have dollar stores, and as luck woukd have it, we do.


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## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

Dave10 said:


> *Scraper, well sort of*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Now that's thinking outside the box! Transform one tool into another! Nicely done Dave!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Scraper, well sort of*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Smart, making tools needed for a specific task is what the masters do, or did many years ago. But, they didn t have dollar stores, and as luck woukd have it, we do.
> 
> - Oldtool


Actually, from what I see on Instagram, luthiers seem to make a lot of their own knives. They buy the blades and handle them. That's one thing I'll do when I replace my planer blades.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

Dave10 said:


> *Scraper, well sort of*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Putting handles on blades is fun. I save scraps of pretty wood just for that.

And good work with your shop-made scrapers. As long as you can turn a burr on them, the steel is "good enough."


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Brass F-hole cleat clamps*










Who doesn't love clamps? I made these 5 light duty clamps so that I wouldn't have to buy them. You can get the comercial variety for $16-$20 each plus shipping. Mine came in at about $5 each.

I made them from 5/32" brass rod, 10-24 threaded rod, nuts, a 6mm t coupling for air lines, and some JB Weld to put it all together.



















The cleats involved are very very small, designed to simply bridge a crack which has already been glued together in order to add some strength to the mend. The top picture below is mine, showing two of my clamps posing on a repaired violin.










The rest of these photos are not mine. I borrowed them from the internet for educational purposes. They show cleats on the underside of an opened violin and cleats on the end of two clamps.



















The cleat is glued to the end of the clamp with a dot of glue. It will easily break off after application to the wood of the violin. Again, these are lightweight clamps, they only need to hold the cleat to the wood while the glue dries, not muscle anything together.

These are sold in throat sets of 1, 2, 3, and 4 inches. I went a step further and made one of 5 inches. Not available in stores!


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass F-hole cleat clamps*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Definitely a specialty clamp, thank you for showing their usage, since most of us would never have been able to
figure it out. Thank you for sharing.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass F-hole cleat clamps*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


So *that's* how you fix a cracked violin. Thanks for the explanation.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass F-hole cleat clamps*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> So *that s* how you fix a cracked violin. Thanks for the explanation.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


More correctly, that's how a crack is cleated. For extreme cases the top gets removed. Glad I haven't had one of those yet.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Brass violin crack clamps*










This is my violin posing with a set of violin crack clamps that I made with brass rod and plastic cut from a 1/2 inch thick cutting board. These function like flexible, light-duty bar clamps. I'll meed to make another, smaller set since many of the instruments I repair are fractional sizes. Oh, no! Not more clamps!


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass violin crack clamps*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Cool!!! Always love a clamp idea, never know when you'll need something just that little bit different to get the job done!


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass violin crack clamps*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, MORE clamps!! AND another box, bag, *SOMETHING* in which to store them!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Brass violin crack clamps*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Yes, MORE clamps!! AND another box, bag, *SOMETHING* in which to store them!
> 
> - CFrye


I'll add that to the list ;-) Seriously, right now I keep my clamp collections at work in shoe boxes. I'd love to make small crates to keep them in, preferably stackable.


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