# please have a look at my electrical panel



## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Hey everyone,

My shop is set up in an unfinished basement corner. I am not knowledgable with this type of thing and am the type that likes things "safe".

I have a 200 amp panel. The main breaker switch has a 200 on it. There are two outlets in the entire basement and it has some basic lighting.

One outlet has an upright freezer and the other has a water heater and water softener plugged into it.

I have not yet determined 100% if they are on separate breakers. It looks like there are two 15a breakers for the basement.

I currently run a thick extension cord from each outlet and have used it without any trouble so far.

However, since adding a table saw and a dust collector I am starting to wonder.

Table saw is a ridgid R4512 (12 amp motor, 120v)

Dust collector is a shop fox 1.5 hp (volt 120/240 amp 12/6 ph 1)

I also run an extra set of lights (similar to a shop halogen light)

I am also considering an overhead air filter (will most likely run when the tools are off in this situation). I am considering having a licensed electrician take care of all this.

Anyway, please have a look and any input is appreciated.

Thanks


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## Stephenw (Nov 14, 2011)

The pictures you posted of your panel are not clear enough to read. With that said, there are plenty of blanks where extra circuits can be added.

Get an electrician to add 20 amp outlets for your shop area. You can also add a 240 volt circuit if you need it.


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Thanks Stephen and sorry about the picture quality. It is terrible on my old ipad! This is a little clearer.


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## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

Wow, lots of blanks….congrats ) Wish I had that many blanks on mine.

What Stephen said. If you're no comfy running new lines yourself hire an electrician. Looks like a piece'o cake.


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Thanks Bill!

I wired up some lights in the past but I have never worked in the panel.

I have a "friend of a friend" who does this type of work so I may ask him to oversee it if I tackle it myself.

So basically buy some 12 ga. wire and a couple 20 amp breakers and then run the wires to the designated area? Nice that the basement is unfinished…never thought I would say that. haha!


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## GregInMaryland (Mar 11, 2010)

Bill is right, you have about 1/2 a panel available. Congratulations!

A couple thoughts:

1) Installing new breaker and wiring isn't difficult, but is you have the least bit of doubt, get a professional. That's what they do.

2) I have a plethora of double wall outlets and overhead outlets, but I find that I could use more. If you think that you will need10 outlets, plan for 20. You won't be sorry.

3) Though you don't have the tools at the moment, reserve some space for a 240 outlet.

4) Also save some space in your panel for upstairs-your wife will appreciate that new whirlpool tub much more if she can turn it on.

5) You will want to have dedicated outlets for the machinery you concurrently run. The table saw, jounter and planner can be on the same circuit, but the dust collector should be on a separate circuit. I think it is highly unlikely that you will have the table saw, jointer or planner on at the same time; however you will have the dust collector on concurrently with these tools.

Good luck and have fun!

Greg


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Hi Greg,

Wow, I feel like something is finally working in my favour for once. 

If I doubt myself or am operating out of pure ignorance/arrogance at any stage I will not proceed. I have a family and that comes first. I appreciate the warning.

Good point on having plenty of outlets. I have ton in my kitchen and know the feeling of not "enough".. I will probably try to run a couple first and then add more later. The reason being is the wire cost will add up a little beyond my current budget. However, I will know how to do it the next time around.

Also, good point about not hogging the panel… 

I will certainly get this all sorted soon. Do you foresee any trouble with using my current wiring? I just put a bit of money into my workshop and if I have to approach my wife about another "immediate" expense she might not be the most enthusiastic about it.

Thanks everyone


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

Nice, half empty panel! I'm in an unfinished basement as well. I'm not as fortunate as you though. I've only got two spots left. General rule I use is one circuit for my DC and one for my other tools. I use mostly 220v. Put in 20A circuits or you will pop breakers with a sander. Wiring is not complicated. I've worked around it for ever though. If you are not sure of something or are in doubt hire a PRO, it ain't worth burning down the house.

KEY is to do it by code and find out the rules in your municipality. I've lived in different areas, and most don't require a pro to do the work, but require permits and inspections. A word of warning. Failure to do it to code, can pose a risk to insurance should something happen. Just be careful.


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Wow, the empty panel is going to start going to my head…hahaha

I can actually follow the existing lines and can mimic what they are doing. Everything is really open so I don't foresee anything out of the ordinary. Not exactly the same, but when I put fluorescent lights in I wired them up to an existing light and had the electrician who did the house double check. His response was "he would hire me". I still don't want to commit to more than I am comfortable with.

I think I may run the wire to the area and outlets as a start. (It is about a 60 ' path) and then get someone I know to do the final steps on the panel.

Thanks so much everyone, it is very much appreciated.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

You appear to be in good shape with this panel. If you don't feel very confident then hire the pro. He should know the code. I run the risk of being chewed up here by saying that but there are people in all walks of life that should know what they are doing but it seems you always find one that doesn't. Give the rest a bad name. I would not use the current receptacles for my shop tools. They are wired this way for a reason. Freezers that have a tripped breaker are bad news. Just add new circuits for the shop. Make them large enough. 20 amp for the 120V tools and personally I would probably use 10 ga. wire for all the 220V tools unless you know you will need a larger breaker. The 10 ga. will allow a 30 amp breaker or a 20 amp breaker. It will cost more but you don't know what you will have next year after the wife gets that whirlpool tub operating. I believe after you check everything you will need GFCI receptacles in an unfinished basement. You can daisy chain those and save some money. You freezer or sump pump does not have to be GFCI protected.


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Hi Grandpa,

I don't see why you would get chewed up for expressing caution so no worries here.

Thank you for the added info on wire gauge. It looks as if 10 ga is about 2-3x more money than 12 ga. If that is what it takes then I am not opposed.

I am not sure what the code is for an unfinished basement but I think GFCI is only required in bedrooms here. I can confirm. I have had trouble in the past with GFCI since they seem quite sensitive. But I will stick to code.

Thanks!


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## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

You said that your water heater and softener were plugged into the same outlet. That seems a bit fishy, a water heater should have it's own Circuit in most cases, as well all appliances should be a separate circuit. 
I would take a look at that and make sure it correct.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

GFCI is required on all kitchen counter receptacles, all bathroom receptacles, all garage receptacles all outdoor receptacles and within 15 feet of a pool or spa so your wife's whirlpool will have to be GFCI. The bedrooms require ARC Fault breakers. Those are available only as a breaker where GFCI can be a breaker or a receptacle. I used them in my shop and I have no problems with them. Some people say they won't start a motor but I do it daily. I didn't use them for my shop lights just the receptacles for the tools. I shopped around and found some wire that wasn't much different in cost between the 10 and 12 ga. I ran the larger wire in case I wanted to change it to a larger breaker for a larger tool later. Just the way I did it. One of those things you wish for later so do it earlier….. Either way would be okay as long as you meet the minimum code requirements. The GFCI is required by the NEC. Municipalities have their own requirements. Chicago is like a group of Nazi's….no offense to you men that have to live there. I am not sure about Canada.


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## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

*I wired up some lights in the past but I have never worked in the panel.

I have a "friend of a friend" who does this type of work so I may ask him to oversee it if I tackle it myself.

So basically buy some 12 ga. wire and a couple 20 amp breakers and then run the wires to the designated area? Nice that the basement is unfinished…never thought I would say that. haha!*

Working in the panel, as you put it, really isn't all that complicated. About 25-30 years ago I bought the ol' How To book and was able to run underground cable (thru conduit of course) to my then detached garage, put in a sub panel, and got lights, receptacles, switches, etc. working just fine. Had an electrician friend check things out and all was good, including a 3 way switch I installed. And recently I wired my new shop with subpanel, and 110 and 220. That said however, if you have any doubts about tackling the electric install yourself, it would be best to contact an electrician. Also, wire everything to code…better safe than sorry. Best of luck, and learn something new )


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Hi Bill,

There is an outlet in the furnace area and the water heater is plugged into it. The softener was installed later and was plugged in there as well. Unless I am missing something here? I will confirm.

Thanks for that further info Grandpa, very helpful, I will look into it.


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Bill, your response just showed up… weird. Thanks for that info. I like to learn new stuff so am excited to "try". Thanks for the added confidence.


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## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

Looks like the site is on the mend, probably a bit delayed.

Electrical wiring is fun but can be a pain if the last guy screwed it up.

Have fun on your new adventure,


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Thanks Bill


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## TheGermanJoiner (Dec 1, 2013)

Hey buddy. Just saw your post. I've run a bunch of panels and it's actually pretty simple if you know what gauge wire for what amperage breaker. PM me if you want. I can walk you through it whenever you want to tackle it


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Awesome Greg, I will for sure 

Thanks


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

Most water heaters are 220 volt and most water softeners are only 110 Volt, so having both of them pugged
into the same outlet sounds weird. They do have 110 volt water heaters, but they are not as efficient as a
220 volt. You said that the outlet was in the furnace area, do you have hot water heat?


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Thanks for the reply, the water heater is 110v 2.5 amps and the furnace is natural gas. I am not sure what the water softener is yet but the plug has a transformer on the end and the cord is rather narrow so it makes me think it isnt using much power. I checked a very similar water softener model online (kenmore same as mine) and it requires 120v 60hz.

I am not sure what all this means. Does it still sound unusual? I live in a 4 year old home.


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## WibblyPig (Jun 8, 2009)

I'm going to go against the grain here and suggest you run a 60 or 100 amp sub-panel to the workshop area and then work from there. You'll want a couple of 20 amp breakers for outlets, a 15 amp for lights, a 20 armp 240 for big machines, a 20 amp for dust collection, etc.

Down the road you might finish the basement and then further down the road you'll decide to add a spray booth or something else that needs a separate circuit and it will be a lot easier to pull it off a panel in the workshop than through a finished basement.

I also think it's a lot easier to run one big wire to the workshop than 10 smaller wires.


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## WibblyPig (Jun 8, 2009)

The water heater is most likely gas and the plug is a booster fan to get rid of fumes.


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Hi Steve, I was looking into the sub panel idea a bit tonight actually and it sounds great. However, it looks like bigger expense and beyond my comfort level. I have not ruled it out since there are added benefits.

That sounds about right concerning the water heater. There is a smallish motor on top.

Thanks


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## skipj (Mar 6, 2012)

+1 on steves idea, I did this in my shop. One of the benefits of this is I can turn off power to a machine by throwing the breaker rather then pulling plugs,pretty much mandatory on a hard wired machine.


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## Farrout (Oct 6, 2009)

Can you pull the face off the panel and take another picture?
It would be nice to see how the wire is laid out inside.
A couple more thoughts.
1. It appears your main disconnect is a pair of 200 amp breakers. That seems unusually high for that type of installation I would limit the total load out of the box 200 amps. Get a clamp on amp meter and run a test. on the input lines with various things turned on.
2. You need what ever kind of clamp is required for the feed through on the box for the type of cable you are using. It looks like the existing is done with romax.


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Thanks for the replies, I can take a picture in a couple of hours.

Talk soon


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## wiwildcat (Jan 10, 2013)

Step 1, what is the connected and demand load on the panel now. Just because there is space for additional breakers doesn't automatically equal additional capacity (amps) available.

Step 2, dont attempt to do electrical if you have no training or education on the system. Houses burn down because people porrly install or modify the electrical. Know the code before attempting any electrical work. And have the work inspected. When in doubt, hire an electrician.

What looks odd is that the electrician that installed this panel, decided to only use one side of the panel for branch breakers.


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Thanks Wisconsin for the info.

How come that looks odd? is there a safety issue here? This is a new home and we have had a few issues so when I hear this I get a little concerned.

Thanks again


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## wiwildcat (Jan 10, 2013)

Nothing wrong with it. Most electricians would put breakers on both sides to lessen the amount of conductors on a side. Sometimes can get messy in the panels wiring space with all those double 15 in a single breaker space. not against code though.


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## jimmyb (Mar 21, 2013)

Are you USA? 
Most panels would have breakers on each side to balance the phase load of 110v and 220 volt.


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## Farrout (Oct 6, 2009)

The load is balanced the way they are installed. Alternate vertical slots are on opposite phases.


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## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

Farrout post 26…..... good eyes!! Not an electrician here, but I've never seen a main like that. I'd like to see a pic of the panel + wiring as well.


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Wisconsin, thanks for getting back to me, that puts my mind at ease.

Jimmy, I am in Canada

Farrout, Thanks

Here are some pics, let me know if you need any different views.

I really appreciate all the help everyone


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

In my area we would say that panel was wired by an amateur. The Romex should go inside the panel about 1 inch them the outer sheath could be cut there. The wires should be run neatly along the sides of the panel until you get to the breaker then they would be bent 90 deg. and attached to the breaker. The breakers shown are mainly half the width of standard breakers. These are okay but you can easily overload a panel with them. They take half the space so you can install twice as many of them. This overloads the panel. In the U.S. the bus strip that the breakers attach to are installed in the panel then the mains knife over the ends of them. Just different but I don't see that they are not safe. I can't tell if there is a fastener on the bonding strip that goes from the right to the left side of the panel. This is 3 photos up. If there is no screw then the wires on the bottom bus strip are not connected to the common feed. It is difficult to tell what we are looking at in photos. Not the same as being there. Our Romex wires are required to be connected to the walls of the panel with some type of strain relief. Doesn't look like your are that way but that is our code. I think Canada might be even tighter on their regulations. This panel actually looks like it could have a double main. I don't see mains that look like this but then it is a different country. I need to go to town with my wife now. Maybe other can comment on this.


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Thanks Grandpa, The house was wired by a fairly big company in the area. However, I do know that there was an apprentice and basically a co-op student working on the wiring as well. This was something that was not entirely known at the time. One thing I can't stand in the house is that the light switches are always on the wrong side of the wall. It confuses everyone and even the builder when we came for the final inspection.

If there is amateurish work in the panel it makes me wonder what is happening behind the walls. I am mainly feeling this way because of the other issues we have had with the house.

Have fun out with your wife. Thanks again.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Those parallel or double mains have been used by GE, ITE and Siemens. Maybe others.


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## GregInMaryland (Mar 11, 2010)

Interesting observations Grandpa. Based on the fuzzy pictures it looks like he has 16 half width 15 amp breakers. If he were to replace them all with full size breakers he would lose 8 slots. Still, he would have a fair number of slots left, though not an entire half panel.

Is there any number of half width breakers that are acceptable? Just curious, I am running out of space and an electrician I had in to do some work suggested them as a possibility.

Greg


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

About the half sized breakers. I am assuming this is because it cuts cost for the electrician. I am wondering if this is to code? or simply just not as robust?

Should I consider switching or contacting the builder? Probably just have to accept it.

Sorry for all the questions.


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

Man, 1/2 a panel empty, the possibilities are endless. I am sooooo jealous.


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## Farrout (Oct 6, 2009)

Yes, half an empty panel, but what is the load?
I do see one set of GFI breakers, maybe for a water heater or the bathrooms?


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## skipj (Mar 6, 2012)

First off I am not a electrician but I agree what grandpa is saying. I have installed a lot of panels in the past and had them inspected. First off most kitchens have 20 amp breakers and I only see 2 in your panel. That 30 amp breaker at the bottom is that 10 gauge wire and those 2-20 amp breakers 12gauge and the 15 amp breakers 14 gauge. I cant tell by the photos but something doesn't look right to me.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I am back finally. I think there is a limit on the half width breakers. These can also be purchased with to inline toggles instead of the side by side design. The data sheet in the panel usually defines the limit. If not this is probably on the internet. Topomax up above is an electrician. He might know more about this although I think he does mostly commercial buildings. They still have to learn this at least once. I think those breakers with the blue push buttons on them might be ARC fault breakers. In the states they are required in bedrooms beginning in 1999 I think and about 2 years ago they are required in all living areas that don't have GFCI. I don't know how they state this in the code book but is in all the living areas. I am not an electrician but as a home inspector I look inside at least one panel in each home I inspect. When I think I have seen it all, a new panel pops up with some more creative wiring. I guess we have never seen it all. Just because a panel has 32 slots or whatever doesn't mean we should fill it with 20 or 30 amp breakers. What is the wire size coming into the panel. Will it support the 200 amp mains? Like Farrout says, what is the load. Things have to be balanced. I think I would hire an electrician. If he finds much wrong with this panel I would be talking to the builder or have your lawyer do the talking. If the new electrician finds things okay then it is probably okay. keep us posted.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

I don't like those half pint double breakers. They concentrate too much heat in a small area; just an invitation to trouble, especially in the cheaper brands. The panel construction will limit where the half pints can be placed and how many. Maximum circuits in a panel board by National Electrical Code is 42. Some small single phase panels will be 20-40; it allows 20 full sized circuit breakers or 40 half size. Other common ones will be 30-40 which allows up to 30 full size or 20 full size and 20 half sized to get a total of 40. 8-16 will be be 8 full or 16 half pints or any combination that will fit.

For what it is worth, the only bands I will install are Cutler Hammer and Square D. Their breakers trip before anything melts!


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I have a Sq D panel and someone put 2 of those breakers in my panel before I bought the house. I have never changed them. Might someday. I say you need to be cautious with those thing. If you need that many breakers you need a larger panel. I realize this leaves half the panel with nothing in it but …well be careful. I wouldn't overload that panel and it would be easy. Call that electrician to look in the panel. See what he says. Get some references and get a reputable man to look at it for you and discuss what you want to try to do. See what he says or recommends. He should be familiar with the local codes as well as your national code. A little money spent here might be a good investment.


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## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

*Edit: Just noticed you are in Canada and gave a closer look at the additional photos. First, take my comments about the NEC (US Code) with a grain of salt. I'm not even a licensed US electrician, much less a Canadian one. Second, I agree with the poster that said that panel looks sloppy. I'm not familiar with the smaller breakers or the 4-pole main feed, but you may seriously want to consider getting a "second opinion" from another electrical contractor based purely on the lack of "craftsmanship" shown in there.*

As others have said, basic wiring is pretty simple. However, the consequences can be severe if you mess it up. Before I wired my shop, I set up a few basic rules for myself:

1. NEVER work on a live circuit. Buy one of those little testers and USE IT.
2. NEVER work in a live panel. Throw the main breaker before you open it up and stay away from the incoming power terminals.
3. ALWAYS get a permit and work to code. Codes are tricky, and change often. The best way to make sure you are up to code is to have a licensed electrician look things over. If one of those isn't readily available, an inspector is a suitable alternative and should be able to notice any problems during the inspections.

Also, I think you may be confusing GFCI with AFCI (Arc Fault). 2008 and newer versions of the NEC require AFCI in the entire house. GFCI in wet or unfinished areas. Your local jurisdiction may have different requirements. Visit your county's building safety website for more info. Most have a downloadable document that outlines basic requirements for DIY homeowners.


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## Blurrytree (Jan 13, 2014)

Sorry about the delay, I didn't get a chance to go over everything the last couple of days.

Woodbutcher, sorry to make you jealous..lol

Farrout, I do not know the load actually. I am sorry for the dumb question but how would I know it for sure? I am not yet sure what the GFI ones are for. I can't read all of the electricians printing! I will check shortly.

Skip, Not what I want to hear and this has me thinking I am going to hire an electrician to come have a look.

From what I can tell the 20 amps are for the kitchen and microwave

30 amp for AC and dryer

40 amp is for the stove

As far as the wire that is connected, that will require a closer look and I will do that and report back.

Grandpa, Thanks for returning,

Yes the blue push buttons are AFCI and are for the bedrooms.

The thickest wire I can see going to the panel is 8/3 300 v

Thanks for the advice, I am going to look into hiring an electrician to inspect. Like you said I need to find a credible one.

Topamax,

These half pint double breakers are concerning me now. I told my wife I want to look into changing them, but it is an expense we can do right away. I know you can't put a price on safety and at the same time I don't want to panic prematurely. Funny thing is that this is the upgraded panel option from our builder. Do I need to stick with siemens breakers if I don't change the entire panel? Thanks so much for the help.

Dylan,

Thanks for the disclaimer. You guys don't know how helpful you have all been. I do have one of those testers but after reading all of your comments I do not want to proceed until this issue is sorted first.

I may be confusing GFCI and AFCI. I wouldn't be surprised… that alone may be what validates me not doing this myself.

Thanks so much everyone


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

jk78, I am not saying the half pint breakers are a hazard. In the last 45 years, I have seen a lot of problems with them that probably would not have developed with a full size beaker. Sometimes there is no choice but to use them or change out the panel. If the customer doesn't want to spend the money, that is his choice. If there is space for full size, why use them?

I have not seen breaker connections burning up in Sq D and CH like I have in others.

A couple of weeks ago I was demoing some illegal wiring in a commercial building. I cut into a hot cable. It did not damage my dikes because the panel was Sq D. Any other brand except CH would have burned 2 big holes in the cutting edges. The old Zinsco or FPE which have been declared a fire hazard may not have even tripped the breaker on a short circuit such as that.

Siemens breakers are the only ones UL listed to be in the panel. Interesting that is an "upgrade." I would be curious to see what was the lower level option. Home Depot shows the price difference bertween a 30 space 40 circuit panel and a 40 space panel to be only $30. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-Homeline-200-Amp-30-Space-40-Circuit-Indoor-Main-Breaker-Load-Center-with-Cover-Value-Pack-HOM3040M200VP/202522993 vs
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-Homeline-200-Amp-40-Space-40-Circuit-Indoor-Main-Breaker-Load-Center-with-Cover-Value-Pack-HOM40M200VP/202523036 . A 20-40 would still cost about $90. The labor to install them is equal. There is no savings of time installing one that is 12 or 6 inches shorter.

The pictures look like your panel is is installed on its side, but it could be the orientation of the picture.


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## todd1962 (Oct 23, 2013)

I have GCFi on every circuit in my shop. I have no problems with my tools tripping them.


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## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

*Todd* - Curious here… if you put a GFCI as the 1st receptacle on a circuit, does that provide GFCI protection to the following receptacles on that circuit ?


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## TheGermanJoiner (Dec 1, 2013)

Bill there are two sides to a GFCI. Line and load. Power goes into the line side and the load side feeds all other outlets. You never run two GFCIs in one line.


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## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

Thanks Vertigo. Friend of mine told me if the 1st receptacle in line was a GFI then the recepts behind it would also have GFI protection. I just wanted to double check on that.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

bbc557ci, your friend told you correctly on the GFCI protection downstream. I do find them wired with the line attached to the load end and then they don't function as designed. Buy a little plug in tester. They plug into the receptacle. Get the one with the test button on it. The test button should trip your GFCI when it is properly installed. Move to the next receptacle downstream and you should be able to trip the GFCI receptacle from that standard but protected receptacle using your tester. If it won't trip then you have something not properly wired. I have found a few of those but most of them are correct. I find more receptacles with the hot and common crossed. I blame this on the electrician allowing his helper install receptacles and not following up to check him occasionally. I have found a GFCI protecting a GFCI receptacle. Then next to it was a standard receptacle that is not protected and should be. That is careless wiring. I used GFCI in all my shop receptacles (120 V) and have not had any problems with motors tripping them. I used 20A receptacles in my shop also. Most are 15A for residential use but we are using demanding tools so feed them. They cost slightly more but if you shop around you might find a deal. 
I still agree that you should get a good electrician to check the wiring in the house. Buy a tester like I said and you can go from receptacle to receptacle and check those. They just cost about $10 or $12.


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## TheGermanJoiner (Dec 1, 2013)

No prob brother


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## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

Thanks Grandpa, I have a plug in tester similar to the one you speak of, and use it every time I install new receptacles. But I don't know if it will trip an improperly wired GFI, but I'll check.

Thanks again


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## Quanter50 (Feb 11, 2012)

I wish I had room in my panel for more breakers. I wired my entire house 22 years ago, with an electrician buddy stopping by periodically to check my work. Here is a shot of my 200 amp service.


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