# Scrap Iron Wood |Lathe



## bushmaster (Feb 25, 2012)

*How I grew my Scrap Iron Wood Lathe No 1*

I would like to share with how I grew my 1000 lb. SCRAP IRON WOOD LATHE.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/242698










I like to grow things BIG. Its a passion



















So what does it take to grow something, well first you need some viable seed You can just find it laying around. so this is what \i started with.










Section of a Logging truck reach, pipe from a sawmill burner, piece a sawmill carraige, a piece of heavy angle iron, end of a camper trailer frame. Then add a key ingrediate










Railroad track steel. First step is to scarf the seed with an angle grinder, brushes, sanders to break through the tough outer coat.
Then all one needs is 20.20.20 imagination and some 20.20 vision, add alittle cutting heat and it will begin to sprout. Hand work and daily care is needed to keep the project growing

I hope you enjoyed this introduction, Next time I will show the growth stage of the Headstock. I will try to post new installments as the data on my cell phone allows, I usually run out before the end of the month. Will use wifi when I am in town as I am now.

This is the first time I have tried a blog and hope I got things right. I know some of you kind folk where interested in this project, not wood but used for wood, and is a dream to use, welcome to visit and make chips fly.
Comments appreciated.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

bushmaster said:


> *How I grew my Scrap Iron Wood Lathe No 1*
> 
> I would like to share with how I grew my 1000 lb. SCRAP IRON WOOD LATHE.
> 
> ...


Great job. Beautiful view. Watch out for those insects. .


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

bushmaster said:


> *How I grew my Scrap Iron Wood Lathe No 1*
> 
> I would like to share with how I grew my 1000 lb. SCRAP IRON WOOD LATHE.
> 
> ...


The blog worked fine, Brian. That is like what a lot of do when we make wood projects out of scrap. It give the material a whole new life.

Cheers, Jim


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## ralbuck (Mar 12, 2012)

bushmaster said:


> *How I grew my Scrap Iron Wood Lathe No 1*
> 
> I would like to share with how I grew my 1000 lb. SCRAP IRON WOOD LATHE.
> 
> ...


Scrap iron can be GOLD-just waiting to happen!

AWESOME!


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## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

bushmaster said:


> *How I grew my Scrap Iron Wood Lathe No 1*
> 
> I would like to share with how I grew my 1000 lb. SCRAP IRON WOOD LATHE.
> 
> ...


Very good, Brian. You nailed it.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

bushmaster said:


> *How I grew my Scrap Iron Wood Lathe No 1*
> 
> I would like to share with how I grew my 1000 lb. SCRAP IRON WOOD LATHE.
> 
> ...


Wow. Them's some mighty fine lookin' maters you got there !


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

bushmaster said:


> *How I grew my Scrap Iron Wood Lathe No 1*
> 
> I would like to share with how I grew my 1000 lb. SCRAP IRON WOOD LATHE.
> 
> ...


We need to change your name to* mater maker* me thinks. LOL


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## ronniebo (Feb 7, 2011)

bushmaster said:


> *How I grew my Scrap Iron Wood Lathe No 1*
> 
> I would like to share with how I grew my 1000 lb. SCRAP IRON WOOD LATHE.
> 
> ...


Brian,
We hope like hell that the fires are mowhere near you.
from Tassie


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

bushmaster said:


> *How I grew my Scrap Iron Wood Lathe No 1*
> 
> I would like to share with how I grew my 1000 lb. SCRAP IRON WOOD LATHE.
> 
> ...


WOW Brian, A jack & master of so many talented ventures from metal work, to woodwork, to mechanic, to lumberjack, to landscaper, to gardener; is their nothing you can't turn your hand to sir….


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## bushmaster (Feb 25, 2012)

*How Grew the Headstock for the Scrap Iron Lathe |Part 2*

Today I will show the growth stage of the basic headstock, It will bloom in a later post with pulleys and indexing plate. I obtained a piece of hollow seamless heavy wall pipe in a short ends bin, would have liked a different size with a smaller hole but beggars can't be choosers. 20$ I could afford, to cut a better piece it would have been about 60$. I wanted a hollow shaft so I would have the opportunity to use a vacuum chuck, homemade of course. First step was to lathe a threaded insert for the shaft end to attach the accesories from a scrap bar of solid steel. First step was to cut the thread with the lathe so it is perfectly aligned, one can't make a mistake on this operation, as one has to make multiple cuts in a row.










Then lathe the metal to just fit inside the spindle.










And then cut it off the bar stock. finished. that was easy..










The next step I worked on was to prepare the section of logging truck reach, The length of the scrap pice I had was only so long so that determined the height of the lathe. I had allot of grinding and sanding to get it presentable, atleast all the loose rust off. 
Clamp the flange bearing in place and use a felt pen to lay out the position on one side then use a square to locate the other one directly across from it.










A drill the size of the holes was used to mark the the position of the center of each hole, then I could use smaller drill stages to start the process, working my way up to 5/8 inches. I did use the drill press, had to prop the one end up of course, don't seem to have a picture of that.
Next step was to cut a heavy piece of channel iron and weld it to the bottom, with a half moon cut out to be welded to a 5 inch pipe in the base.
Snow is great for cooling the metal after you cut it.



















Wheel barrel makes a handy table, transporting this project as the parts are heavy.










And that all there is to it. I think I will show you how I built the base next time. 
Thanks for looking and comments appreciated and thanks to Safeway Store for the free WiFi.


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## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

bushmaster said:


> *How Grew the Headstock for the Scrap Iron Lathe |Part 2*
> 
> Today I will show the growth stage of the basic headstock, It will bloom in a later post with pulleys and indexing plate. I obtained a piece of hollow seamless heavy wall pipe in a short ends bin, would have liked a different size with a smaller hole but beggars can't be choosers. 20$ I could afford, to cut a better piece it would have been about 60$. I wanted a hollow shaft so I would have the opportunity to use a vacuum chuck, homemade of course. First step was to lathe a threaded insert for the shaft end to attach the accesories from a scrap bar of solid steel. First step was to cut the thread with the lathe so it is perfectly aligned, one can't make a mistake on this operation, as one has to make multiple cuts in a row.
> 
> ...


I'm glad you documented this, Brian. I'm getting to know more about you.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

bushmaster said:


> *How Grew the Headstock for the Scrap Iron Lathe |Part 2*
> 
> Today I will show the growth stage of the basic headstock, It will bloom in a later post with pulleys and indexing plate. I obtained a piece of hollow seamless heavy wall pipe in a short ends bin, would have liked a different size with a smaller hole but beggars can't be choosers. 20$ I could afford, to cut a better piece it would have been about 60$. I wanted a hollow shaft so I would have the opportunity to use a vacuum chuck, homemade of course. First step was to lathe a threaded insert for the shaft end to attach the accesories from a scrap bar of solid steel. First step was to cut the thread with the lathe so it is perfectly aligned, one can't make a mistake on this operation, as one has to make multiple cuts in a row.
> 
> ...


Great photos of the process. I like hand made tools!!

Jim


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

bushmaster said:


> *How Grew the Headstock for the Scrap Iron Lathe |Part 2*
> 
> Today I will show the growth stage of the basic headstock, It will bloom in a later post with pulleys and indexing plate. I obtained a piece of hollow seamless heavy wall pipe in a short ends bin, would have liked a different size with a smaller hole but beggars can't be choosers. 20$ I could afford, to cut a better piece it would have been about 60$. I wanted a hollow shaft so I would have the opportunity to use a vacuum chuck, homemade of course. First step was to lathe a threaded insert for the shaft end to attach the accesories from a scrap bar of solid steel. First step was to cut the thread with the lathe so it is perfectly aligned, one can't make a mistake on this operation, as one has to make multiple cuts in a row.
> 
> ...


Nightmares…thread cutting on a metal lathe with HSS hand made cutter…..BUT WOW….you certainly are a multi-talented craftsman Brian…..thank you for all the extra photos & notes on the wood lathe build…


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## fatman51 (May 16, 2013)

bushmaster said:


> *How Grew the Headstock for the Scrap Iron Lathe |Part 2*
> 
> Today I will show the growth stage of the basic headstock, It will bloom in a later post with pulleys and indexing plate. I obtained a piece of hollow seamless heavy wall pipe in a short ends bin, would have liked a different size with a smaller hole but beggars can't be choosers. 20$ I could afford, to cut a better piece it would have been about 60$. I wanted a hollow shaft so I would have the opportunity to use a vacuum chuck, homemade of course. First step was to lathe a threaded insert for the shaft end to attach the accesories from a scrap bar of solid steel. First step was to cut the thread with the lathe so it is perfectly aligned, one can't make a mistake on this operation, as one has to make multiple cuts in a row.
> 
> ...


What an awesome project!


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

bushmaster said:


> *How Grew the Headstock for the Scrap Iron Lathe |Part 2*
> 
> Today I will show the growth stage of the basic headstock, It will bloom in a later post with pulleys and indexing plate. I obtained a piece of hollow seamless heavy wall pipe in a short ends bin, would have liked a different size with a smaller hole but beggars can't be choosers. 20$ I could afford, to cut a better piece it would have been about 60$. I wanted a hollow shaft so I would have the opportunity to use a vacuum chuck, homemade of course. First step was to lathe a threaded insert for the shaft end to attach the accesories from a scrap bar of solid steel. First step was to cut the thread with the lathe so it is perfectly aligned, one can't make a mistake on this operation, as one has to make multiple cuts in a row.
> 
> ...


Props to you Sir, you have excellent welding skills ! 
.
.


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## bushmaster (Feb 25, 2012)

*Setting down a well rooted base and bed of the Scrap Iron lathe*

As with any plant it is only as good as the root system, fertalize liberally with 20.20.20 imagination. I had some scrap 5 inch pipe that had held up the system to deliver scrap to the burner. Braces etc had to be cut off and then cut to length.










I could get 2 pieces full length but one had to be made up in 3 pieces. Only had a couple inches left over. I then dragged a sheet of steel into the carport and built the base right on top of the steel sheet. That way you do not have to measure twice and still get it wrong and off square. The channel iron ends came from a camper trailer and was the right length and width. that doesn't happen very often.










The center pipe is set off side to give a larger floor area for standing. the base metal was 4 ft. by 6 ft.. Just hat the doctor ordered. The came the job of welding the pipes to the end channel iron, to make the job easier I found a sky hook usefull.










Next step would be to weld the head stock in place and fit the deck and weld it. This picture shows how it looks even though I welded it later, just a fit up.










While I am using free WiFi I will show you how I pre assembled the bet section. I wanted to be able to unbolt it if necessary so I cut double angle iron for each end and made shims in case It was not quite right after welding, Match drilled 3-3/4 inch holes for bolts, Heavy angle iron matched the size of the lathe, found it under a tree, don't know where I got it.










Since the railroad steel was badly pitted by rust I chose to overlay it with 1/2 by 3 inch steel, clamped and welded in place, top and bottom.










Last step is to position both rail road pieces side by side with one of the angle iron pieces on each end. Lots of clamps and plates on the top to get it so called perfectly flat, parallel, and straight, as possible. One chance to do this right, then weld. Once tacked I tried to tip it up to get a better angle to weld it, but couldn't budge it, quess I am getting weak in my old age Had to use a jack.










So that all there is to it, Next time I will show you how I assembled the bed to the headstock. easier said than done, to heavy to hold in place, but as they say when there is a will there is a way..

Thanks for your interest, quite a few have read this blog, mabe you are thinking it will not happen again, I think you would be right, built to las a life time.

Comments are interesting and appreciated.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

bushmaster said:


> *Setting down a well rooted base and bed of the Scrap Iron lathe*
> 
> As with any plant it is only as good as the root system, fertalize liberally with 20.20.20 imagination. I had some scrap 5 inch pipe that had held up the system to deliver scrap to the burner. Braces etc had to be cut off and then cut to length.
> 
> ...


I have no doubt that this thing will last a lifetime .. yours, AND YOUR CHILDREN'S !


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## Shuja (Feb 10, 2014)

bushmaster said:


> *Setting down a well rooted base and bed of the Scrap Iron lathe*
> 
> As with any plant it is only as good as the root system, fertalize liberally with 20.20.20 imagination. I had some scrap 5 inch pipe that had held up the system to deliver scrap to the burner. Braces etc had to be cut off and then cut to length.
> 
> ...


And grand children!


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

bushmaster said:


> *Setting down a well rooted base and bed of the Scrap Iron lathe*
> 
> As with any plant it is only as good as the root system, fertalize liberally with 20.20.20 imagination. I had some scrap 5 inch pipe that had held up the system to deliver scrap to the burner. Braces etc had to be cut off and then cut to length.
> 
> ...


The more I know and see of this lathe you made brian, the more in awe I am sir of your "where-with-all"...


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

bushmaster said:


> *Setting down a well rooted base and bed of the Scrap Iron lathe*
> 
> As with any plant it is only as good as the root system, fertalize liberally with 20.20.20 imagination. I had some scrap 5 inch pipe that had held up the system to deliver scrap to the burner. Braces etc had to be cut off and then cut to length.
> 
> ...


Interesting build, I like that reciprocating hacksaw. Popular Mechanics had a plan to make one using old 
connecting rods and a few other parts. You have a very well equipped shop and the knowledge and skill
to use the tools. I notice you still have the chains on your tractor in the third picture. Winter had still not
decided to make for spring yet looking at the mountains. Both you and Bondogaposis have wonderful
scenery for your shops.


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## bushmaster (Feb 25, 2012)

*Finally getting it together, Bed to Headstock*

The first thing was to level the base using blocks and wedges, checking with a carpenters level in both directions, Then weld the headstock securely to the base frame work. That the easy part as the bed assembly is too heavy for to lift by anyone I know. But a chainblock secured to the rafters does the job with one hand.
Fancy jig showing how I got the spindle pointing in the right direction, high tech










Using the tailstock to determine the correct height, no mistakes that way, and using wood blocks to hold the bed at correct height'










That ok for the end nearest the spindle but what about the other end, I then mounted a piece of pipe between the spindle and tailsock, used a level and some high tech jigs for alignment. As I am doing this I am using some thin wood wedges for fine adjustment, Also checking to see if it is level across the bed also. A tap here and a tap there, just tap tap tap till it is right.



















final check.










Bolt heavy angle to bed plates, clamp to headstock and weld in place.










I was wondering how to support the other end, had planned on pipes at an angle, but I discovered that the piece of steel left over was just the right length, just weld a flat plate to it and match drill holes to the channel iron at end of base, Bolt to base and weld to angle iron that was bolted to the bed.










Then knock out the wood and call it a day. Sand back and admire what now looks like a lathe, It will really bloom next time










Thanks for looking and comments appreciated.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

bushmaster said:


> *Finally getting it together, Bed to Headstock*
> 
> The first thing was to level the base using blocks and wedges, checking with a carpenters level in both directions, Then weld the headstock securely to the base frame work. That the easy part as the bed assembly is too heavy for to lift by anyone I know. But a chainblock secured to the rafters does the job with one hand.
> Fancy jig showing how I got the spindle pointing in the right direction, high tech
> ...


Nice going ,Brian. Don't just love it when you can make your own tools?

Jim


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

bushmaster said:


> *Finally getting it together, Bed to Headstock*
> 
> The first thing was to level the base using blocks and wedges, checking with a carpenters level in both directions, Then weld the headstock securely to the base frame work. That the easy part as the bed assembly is too heavy for to lift by anyone I know. But a chainblock secured to the rafters does the job with one hand.
> Fancy jig showing how I got the spindle pointing in the right direction, high tech
> ...


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## bushmaster (Feb 25, 2012)

*Adding pulleys and indexing plate to the spindle.*

So far the lathe was built without any need use a tape measure etc. just a stick would have been enough, Today we need to use fine measurements down to .001 inch. micrometer needed, but one could just machine to fit. The first thing is to make two collars with a 1 5/8 inch inside diameter. I think I used 2 inch stock from making the spindle insert. Drill and bore.










I almost forgot to drill a hole to make a key way, since I do not have a broach. The center of the hole you drill is the outside diameter of the hole. This picture is poor but is the only one I have.










After it is bored to the size needed, only 1/2 the hole is now seen, one can square it up abit with a file. This is the only way I have figured out how to make a key slot inside a hole.

Now one just has to mill key slots in the spindle in the appropriate place.










The next thing to do is make the index plate. I had a larger one so I need to cut it down to fit inside the headstock.










I neeeded a series of closely spaced hole in the plate, Just made a jig out of wood with the 10 degree angle. Each time a hole was drilled the plate was rotated and the pin put back in.










The plate was then drilled and bored out to fit a shoulder I lathed on one end of the collar, then welded together, I then drilled and tapped two holes for set screws, If I had remember it would been easier to do befor it was welded together.










The same operation was done on the collar for the pulleys, I made a longer collar and machined a shoulder on both ends. Set screws in the center of the collar. The weld on pulleys I was able to buy had an inside diameter of 1 1/2. They had to be bored out to fit on the shoulder and then welded on.










Thought I was about done but then figured out I need some thing to stop the spindle from being pushed out when pressure was applied by the tailstock. I thought a snap ring would work, but they did not have the size I needed in a local store. So I came up with this idea. Machine a ring, cut it in half, machine a collar with on end machined out to the outside diameter of the ring and in at least its thickness. I installed it ahead of the outside bearing. Works excellant.










Assembled and in place.










The next thing I did to complete this section was to drill a hole in the center of two bars. using a pin to line them oup with the indexing plate they where welded place. The main thing this is used for is to lock the spindle to remove the spur and chucks.










complete with pulleys also










The last thing to do was to make a lid and pulley guard, Little blocks of metal where welded on for hinges.










That was allot of fiddle work to complete this section. I did all this work while I was building the basic lathe, early in the morning when it was still dark and cold miserable days. That way parts where read when needed.
About blossumed out now, just have to make some accessories now and attach the motor, will do that in the next post.
Thanks for looking, hope you where entertained by this blog. Comments appreciated


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

bushmaster said:


> *Adding pulleys and indexing plate to the spindle.*
> 
> So far the lathe was built without any need use a tape measure etc. just a stick would have been enough, Today we need to use fine measurements down to .001 inch. micrometer needed, but one could just machine to fit. The first thing is to make two collars with a 1 5/8 inch inside diameter. I think I used 2 inch stock from making the spindle insert. Drill and bore.
> 
> ...


My goodness Brian, Is there anything you can't do sir….plus you patience to do it all by hand is excellent…


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

bushmaster said:


> *Adding pulleys and indexing plate to the spindle.*
> 
> So far the lathe was built without any need use a tape measure etc. just a stick would have been enough, Today we need to use fine measurements down to .001 inch. micrometer needed, but one could just machine to fit. The first thing is to make two collars with a 1 5/8 inch inside diameter. I think I used 2 inch stock from making the spindle insert. Drill and bore.
> 
> ...


Brian, you are a man after my own heart. How big of a metal lathe do you have?

Cheers, Jim


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## bushmaster (Feb 25, 2012)

*Attaching the motor and making accessories.*

The first time I attached the motor, a 1 hp industrial dust proof motor that I bought for 20$ and then Replace a 20$ bearing, would have liked more but thought this one was a good deal, I made steel blocks and hinged it on that. I rattled and made too much noise so had to come up with another plan and mount it on rubber bushings. What I came up with is rubber bushings in the end of a scrap shock absorber.










Then weld it to a steel plate using a dowel to line up the bushings, made tabs to weld on to headstock, also cut slots so the motor can be moved sideways for better pulley alinement.










Used blocks of wood under the plate with the motor and belts on to get the right position.










Motor attached, ready to roll but need it properly wired with a switch. But what good is a running lathe with out a tool rest. Was looking at a piece of grader blade cutting edge steel, nicely tapered in the backside T4 besides, what more would you want.










Cut out, ground nice and smooth, just need to weld a 1 inch post to the back and fill the bolt holes with body filler to make it look nice.










All finished










Then one needs a spur center for spindle turning. I welded a 1 inch nut to a disc of heavy steel, lathed it up nice and drilledl holes for sharpened concrete nails. This one should not slip.










Thats great but I really like to make bowls so would be nice to have some face plates. Again I cut a 3/8 disc and then welded a 1 inch nut to it.










Then just machine it up real nice, I used the The insert that I made in the second post for the hollow spindle with the faceplate screwed on so it would run true in the end use. The insert was later locked into the spindle with Permatex thread locking glue.










One is great but more is always better, saves time in the long run looking for the only one, drill a number of holes so one can use 4 or 3 screws or even 6. and a larger one with possible 12










That about does it, I think I will post a group of finished pictures to top off this blog.

Thanks for your interest in how I made this lathe. 
Comments appreciated, and always welcome to come and try it out.


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## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

bushmaster said:


> *Attaching the motor and making accessories.*
> 
> The first time I attached the motor, a 1 hp industrial dust proof motor that I bought for 20$ and then Replace a 20$ bearing, would have liked more but thought this one was a good deal, I made steel blocks and hinged it on that. I rattled and made too much noise so had to come up with another plan and mount it on rubber bushings. What I came up with is rubber bushings in the end of a scrap shock absorber.
> 
> ...


More talent than anyone ought to have.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

bushmaster said:


> *Attaching the motor and making accessories.*
> 
> The first time I attached the motor, a 1 hp industrial dust proof motor that I bought for 20$ and then Replace a 20$ bearing, would have liked more but thought this one was a good deal, I made steel blocks and hinged it on that. I rattled and made too much noise so had to come up with another plan and mount it on rubber bushings. What I came up with is rubber bushings in the end of a scrap shock absorber.
> 
> ...


Brian, this is looking great. Nice work.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

bushmaster said:


> *Attaching the motor and making accessories.*
> 
> The first time I attached the motor, a 1 hp industrial dust proof motor that I bought for 20$ and then Replace a 20$ bearing, would have liked more but thought this one was a good deal, I made steel blocks and hinged it on that. I rattled and made too much noise so had to come up with another plan and mount it on rubber bushings. What I came up with is rubber bushings in the end of a scrap shock absorber.
> 
> ...





> More talent than anyone ought to have.
> 
> - Mark Wilson


Yup, what he said !


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

bushmaster said:


> *Attaching the motor and making accessories.*
> 
> The first time I attached the motor, a 1 hp industrial dust proof motor that I bought for 20$ and then Replace a 20$ bearing, would have liked more but thought this one was a good deal, I made steel blocks and hinged it on that. I rattled and made too much noise so had to come up with another plan and mount it on rubber bushings. What I came up with is rubber bushings in the end of a scrap shock absorber.
> 
> ...


Brian, the more you show us, the more one is in awe of your abilities…..TOP JOB!!!


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## MustacheMike (Sep 6, 2012)

bushmaster said:


> *Attaching the motor and making accessories.*
> 
> The first time I attached the motor, a 1 hp industrial dust proof motor that I bought for 20$ and then Replace a 20$ bearing, would have liked more but thought this one was a good deal, I made steel blocks and hinged it on that. I rattled and made too much noise so had to come up with another plan and mount it on rubber bushings. What I came up with is rubber bushings in the end of a scrap shock absorber.
> 
> ...


Nice!!


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## JulianLech (Jan 13, 2011)

bushmaster said:


> *Attaching the motor and making accessories.*
> 
> The first time I attached the motor, a 1 hp industrial dust proof motor that I bought for 20$ and then Replace a 20$ bearing, would have liked more but thought this one was a good deal, I made steel blocks and hinged it on that. I rattled and made too much noise so had to come up with another plan and mount it on rubber bushings. What I came up with is rubber bushings in the end of a scrap shock absorber.
> 
> ...


That's fantastic. Nothing more satisfying than making your own machinery and tools.


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

bushmaster said:


> *Attaching the motor and making accessories.*
> 
> The first time I attached the motor, a 1 hp industrial dust proof motor that I bought for 20$ and then Replace a 20$ bearing, would have liked more but thought this one was a good deal, I made steel blocks and hinged it on that. I rattled and made too much noise so had to come up with another plan and mount it on rubber bushings. What I came up with is rubber bushings in the end of a scrap shock absorber.
> 
> ...


I like your shock absorber ends being used as vibration insulators, I will have to remember that one. Like
your method of making trued surface face plates, I used the same idea and made some large sanding discs 
for my lathe. The use of a grader blade for a tool rest looks good, it should not wear and get rought spots 
like the stock Delta tool rests do. Thank you for sharing the lathe build and giving us ideas we can use.


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## bushmaster (Feb 25, 2012)

*Pictures of the completed project.*

Just a few pictures of the completed project.

!https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/o7k8m34.jpg

!













































In this blog I never mentioned how I made the tailsock as I had used it from the first lathe I made. Is is made from a section of rectangular steel tube, 1/4 wall, A Vee was cut out of opposite sides and then welled back together. The top tube was a piece of seamless drill pipe from the oil field. The internal parts was machined from solid stock. The number 3 morris taper was a sleeve that shrunk fit in.



















For those that haven't seen the first video I made after the lathe was finished can be viewed by this link.






Anyway I enjoyed the challenge to make this lathe, so far it was worked very well, Not as fancy as a commercial one but with practise I can eventually do some projects like the outstanding one I have seen many of you do.

Comments are appreciated, Keep on turning Brian


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## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

bushmaster said:


> *Pictures of the completed project.*
> 
> Just a few pictures of the completed project.
> 
> ...


That is quite animpressive lathe you got there!
Just qurious: How did you get the spindle and tailstock aligned properly?


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

bushmaster said:


> *Pictures of the completed project.*
> 
> Just a few pictures of the completed project.
> 
> ...


Basically for the cost of your time and effort…that's a top result..


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

bushmaster said:


> *Pictures of the completed project.*
> 
> Just a few pictures of the completed project.
> 
> ...


Real nice lathe, Brian!!


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

bushmaster said:


> *Pictures of the completed project.*
> 
> Just a few pictures of the completed project.
> 
> ...


The more I look at this, the more it looks like it belongs on a *BATTLESHIP *! 
.
.
I found this picture on the 'Web a few years back and have been wondering where it would apply. When I think of "Turning" I think of a wood lathe. I dont think they mean the same thing in this picture! LOL
.
.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

bushmaster said:


> *Pictures of the completed project.*
> 
> Just a few pictures of the completed project.
> 
> ...


I'm thinking lathe on steroids! That is one beefy looking lathe.


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## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

bushmaster said:


> *Pictures of the completed project.*
> 
> Just a few pictures of the completed project.
> 
> ...


There's Joe, wandering around in my head, again, stepping in stuff, tracking it around.


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

bushmaster said:


> *Pictures of the completed project.*
> 
> Just a few pictures of the completed project.
> 
> ...


Darn, all I need to do is start learning and collecting stuff 25 years ago and I could do that. Wonderful build
and if you read between the lines you can understand all the careful measuring, cutting and machining that
went into making this bunch of scrap iron into a woodworkers toy. The reason I call it a toy is because
Brian is having too darn much fun with it to call what he is doing now that it is finished work. Hope you 
enjoy lots of hours with that lathe.


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