# Hope Chest for Daughter #2



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Design approved and construction details planned out....*










Daughter #2 has "approved" the design of her hope chest. Here's my rendered solid model….

I started from the same NYWS that I used for her sisters, but with the following skill builder changes:

1. outside edges will be joined with Lock Miter instead of tongue tenon and groove.
2. rails and styles will be profiled and joined with a cope cut instead of mortise and tenon .
3. panels will be raised and back cut instead of flat.
4. feet will be cut with a taper, instead of curve.
5. name will be CNC routed on top rail as b4
6. wood will be Mahogany (a stack of 44" cut offs left over from a 15 year old deck project and given to a buddy who later painted the house and in turn gave them to me). They are weathered gray from sitting under the deck all those years. but most are straight and all are sound.

The finnish is TBD, but I'd like to try spraying it. The wood has a nice "milk chocolate" color and I'd like to use a finish that highlights the grain and does not darken it.


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## lightcs1776 (Nov 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Design approved and construction details planned out....*
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It's going to be a nice build, Matt. I like the plan.


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## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Design approved and construction details planned out....*
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Matt, I have a chest out in the shop now that I started out of eastern cedar. It is a panel design like that. That looks pretty good, I may have to finish it some day…..


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Design approved and construction details planned out....*
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For the sake of comparison, here's the rendered model of the first one I did, which is built and done…


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *Design approved and construction details planned out....*
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Well, when do we start? I'm ready to see the progress….. Maybe a video blog??? 
Good lookin design, Matt


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Design approved and construction details planned out....*
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I stuck with the NYWS plan, but I wanted my daughter to have a high sense of ownership, so we looked at a lot of images on line and this was the aesthetic style that she chose (and I must say she has good taste).










Again, encouraging her "ownership", I gave her some options for the raised panel profile….










She chose the Ogee profile and by adapting that to the NYWS geometry (which she wanted to keep) we'll be making our own "style statement" :^)


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## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Design approved and construction details planned out....*
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Great idea getting the Daughter involved. Looks like a great design.


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Design approved and construction details planned out....*
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Looks like a great design Matt and really great to involve your daughters in the process…....it's all good.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *Design approved and construction details planned out....*
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Sounds like a fun project, Matt. Will the daughter assist?
Have a project coming up using lock miters. My first. Let me know how you do.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Design approved and construction details planned out....*
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I agree with all above. Looks like a some good memories about to happen in the shop. Look forward to seeing it.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Design approved and construction details planned out....*
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That will be a great chest….
Filled with hope & memories!!!

Looking forward to, seeing the build progress.
I will follow the travails!!!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Design approved and construction details planned out....*
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I cant wait for this one.
Keep us tuned in on the progress.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Drafted shop drawings*

I cleaned up my solid model and created a 5 page set of shop drawings….


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Drafted shop drawings*
> 
> I cleaned up my solid model and created a 5 page set of shop drawings….


That's-a gonna look-a nice


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Drafted shop drawings*
> 
> I cleaned up my solid model and created a 5 page set of shop drawings….


Well, you've got the plan….
Now let's see it put into action!!! ;^)

I gave SketchUp a try, but with a limited effort….
& an inadequate laptop….
I never was able to "get it"!!!
Guess I'll have do "old school" drawings for my plans….


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Drafted shop drawings*
> 
> I cleaned up my solid model and created a 5 page set of shop drawings….


Matt looks like a nice set of plans.
Keep us posted.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Hauled in wood from the barn to acclimate *

This pile of lumber was given to my good friend after painting a house. They apparently are the cutoffs from a deck build some years earlier and sat piled under the deck. He in turn gifted them to me.

38 boards of 4/4×3-1/2×50" S4S

My wood expert friends at work say it's Honduran Mahogany.

I've had it up in the barn loft for ~5 years since and today my A1 helper and I lugged it into the basement to get acclimated. We're hoping to get started on the chest while she's on Spring brake. Assuming spring ever comes.


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Hauled in wood from the barn to acclimate *
> 
> This pile of lumber was given to my good friend after painting a house. They apparently are the cutoffs from a deck build some years earlier and sat piled under the deck. He in turn gifted them to me.
> 
> ...


Very nice…...this will be a real beauty…..


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## lightcs1776 (Nov 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Hauled in wood from the barn to acclimate *
> 
> This pile of lumber was given to my good friend after painting a house. They apparently are the cutoffs from a deck build some years earlier and sat piled under the deck. He in turn gifted them to me.
> 
> ...


It may be renamed "late winter break" the way the weather keeps going.

Boards look nice. You'll make a great hope chest.


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *Hauled in wood from the barn to acclimate *
> 
> This pile of lumber was given to my good friend after painting a house. They apparently are the cutoffs from a deck build some years earlier and sat piled under the deck. He in turn gifted them to me.
> 
> ...


Good lookin' stash of mahogany you've got there!


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Hauled in wood from the barn to acclimate *
> 
> This pile of lumber was given to my good friend after painting a house. They apparently are the cutoffs from a deck build some years earlier and sat piled under the deck. He in turn gifted them to me.
> 
> ...


Great stash! You've been holding out on us.


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## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Hauled in wood from the barn to acclimate *
> 
> This pile of lumber was given to my good friend after painting a house. They apparently are the cutoffs from a deck build some years earlier and sat piled under the deck. He in turn gifted them to me.
> 
> ...


Your friend's really paying it forward to a craftsman that will give that wood a wonderful ending to its long life.


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## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Hauled in wood from the barn to acclimate *
> 
> This pile of lumber was given to my good friend after painting a house. They apparently are the cutoffs from a deck build some years earlier and sat piled under the deck. He in turn gifted them to me.
> 
> ...


Matt, Honduran Mahogany is not a very good wood for hope chests. As a friend, I'll help ya out by swapping you a pile of cheap douglas fir for that stack…..


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Hauled in wood from the barn to acclimate *
> 
> This pile of lumber was given to my good friend after painting a house. They apparently are the cutoffs from a deck build some years earlier and sat piled under the deck. He in turn gifted them to me.
> 
> ...


Nice little stash of wood.
You didn't have to bring it into the shop to acclimate….
You could have brought the shop to the barn!!!

Looking forward to watching as you progress through your build.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Hauled in wood from the barn to acclimate *
> 
> This pile of lumber was given to my good friend after painting a house. They apparently are the cutoffs from a deck build some years earlier and sat piled under the deck. He in turn gifted them to me.
> 
> ...


OHhhhhh, it's gonna be purdeee!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Hauled in wood from the barn to acclimate *
> 
> This pile of lumber was given to my good friend after painting a house. They apparently are the cutoffs from a deck build some years earlier and sat piled under the deck. He in turn gifted them to me.
> 
> ...


Loving the wood!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Stock prep day*

Sorted boards to get the straightest ones, then hit them with a wire brush to get the dirt off of them.

Jointer-jointer-planer-table saw

Flat face - square and flat edge - parallel and flat opposite face - parallel square and flat opposite edge

When ripping I was only taking a skim cut to minimize loss of width. This can be really messy with most of the sawdust blowing back on me, so I set up the shop vac with a funnel to catch most of it….










I stickered the boards under weight to let any residual internal stresses relax…










The dark is all from today…










It will be interesting to see if these get any curvy twisty mischief.

Finish dims are 7/8" thick by 3-7/16" wide.

If all goes well I may glue up the top on Monday.

Thanks for looking


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Stock prep day*
> 
> Sorted boards to get the straightest ones, then hit them with a wire brush to get the dirt off of them.
> 
> ...


Lookin good, that's some nice mahogany. I did a similar thing with so e poplar the other day and the first piece I planed twisted so I stopped to let it acclimate some more. Hoping later this week to face joint again and then plane to 3/4.

Gonna use mortise and tenon on this thing?


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Stock prep day*
> 
> Sorted boards to get the straightest ones, then hit them with a wire brush to get the dirt off of them.
> 
> ...


Hi Bill,

I'm going to take my first ever try at raised panels, so the rails and styles will be held together with the coped profile.










Then I'm going to try to join the sides and end with the lock-miter profile.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *Stock prep day*
> 
> Sorted boards to get the straightest ones, then hit them with a wire brush to get the dirt off of them.
> 
> ...


I Look forward to see more progress Matt


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Stock prep day*
> 
> Sorted boards to get the straightest ones, then hit them with a wire brush to get the dirt off of them.
> 
> ...


Nice Matt. I've been doing rail and stile with my Freud set for a while. I really enjoy doing that. It's really slick how they go together. I did my first actual raised panel a few months ago. I bought a separate cutter without the back cutter. Make sure that you cut the ends first so that any tear out is fixed when you cut the cope. I have a miter lock bit and have used it one time. It worked well once I got it all aligned. You either need a fancy jig to line it up or do some test cuts so that the corners come together. You probably knew all of this though. Have fun.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Stock prep day*
> 
> Sorted boards to get the straightest ones, then hit them with a wire brush to get the dirt off of them.
> 
> ...


Off course, now that I do my mental inventory, I realize that I need to prep 4 more boards.


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## lightcs1776 (Nov 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Stock prep day*
> 
> Sorted boards to get the straightest ones, then hit them with a wire brush to get the dirt off of them.
> 
> ...


Great looking boards, Matt. A lot of progress in the shop. Well done.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Stock prep day*
> 
> Sorted boards to get the straightest ones, then hit them with a wire brush to get the dirt off of them.
> 
> ...


Here's hopin those boards all stay straight and flat!


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Stock prep day*
> 
> Sorted boards to get the straightest ones, then hit them with a wire brush to get the dirt off of them.
> 
> ...


Just think, if the boards do move….
You get to have more fun in the shop, milling them all over again!!!

Here's hoping you get not to have that much fun!!!

Hope your knee heals up and you can get back to this in short order!!!


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## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Stock prep day*
> 
> Sorted boards to get the straightest ones, then hit them with a wire brush to get the dirt off of them.
> 
> ...


Matt its coming together ,looking foward to seeing the chest. going to one happy girl


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## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Stock prep day*
> 
> Sorted boards to get the straightest ones, then hit them with a wire brush to get the dirt off of them.
> 
> ...


Go for it Matt…..


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Stock prep day*
> 
> Sorted boards to get the straightest ones, then hit them with a wire brush to get the dirt off of them.
> 
> ...


Looks like a gr8 project coming to life. Looking forward to it all.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Top is glued up*

I am very happy with the quality of cut I am getting with the Fussion blade, and have no reservations about gluing up the panels right off of the TS. Smoother and straighter than my jointer produces (granted, it's a really old jointer).

My daughter came down and cut the biscuit joints and assisted with the glue up. I'm so glad she did, as we needed to move fast. We were much better organized and prepared than my first build, yet were still challenged to get it clamped up quickly.

After cutting all the biscuits in the first board she says to me "shouldn't I have safety glasses on"

Doh!!!! I'm glad somebody was on the ball…. as it sure wasn't me.

Here she is scraping the squeezed out glue off when we were all done.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Top is glued up*
> 
> I am very happy with the quality of cut I am getting with the Fussion blade, and have no reservations about gluing up the panels right off of the TS. Smoother and straighter than my jointer produces (granted, it's a really old jointer).
> 
> ...


Good to see the that the family that glues together….
STICKS together!!!

A really good thing….
Your daughter has a brain on her shoulders.
You on the other hand should be protecting what brain cells you have left!!! ;^)


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## lightcs1776 (Nov 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Top is glued up*
> 
> I am very happy with the quality of cut I am getting with the Fussion blade, and have no reservations about gluing up the panels right off of the TS. Smoother and straighter than my jointer produces (granted, it's a really old jointer).
> 
> ...


Great to see your able to do a build with your daughter. She is doing a great job cleaning up the glue.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Top is glued up*
> 
> I am very happy with the quality of cut I am getting with the Fussion blade, and have no reservations about gluing up the panels right off of the TS. Smoother and straighter than my jointer produces (granted, it's a really old jointer).
> 
> ...


Yeah, I hate the sound and flakes that fly off my biscuit cutter. I always wear protection with that thing, though nothing could protect my finger when it got in the way of that thing about 8 years ago. If she's using that, she's well on her way to being a woodworker. Is that a Freud blade? Nice clamps. I used the one I just got today. I would like to have more.


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Top is glued up*
> 
> I am very happy with the quality of cut I am getting with the Fussion blade, and have no reservations about gluing up the panels right off of the TS. Smoother and straighter than my jointer produces (granted, it's a really old jointer).
> 
> ...


Great team work, Matt!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Top is glued up*
> 
> I am very happy with the quality of cut I am getting with the Fussion blade, and have no reservations about gluing up the panels right off of the TS. Smoother and straighter than my jointer produces (granted, it's a really old jointer).
> 
> ...


Bill…. I'm using a Freud Fusion blade, which is their latest combo blade. I've had it on for a while now and am very happy with it. I did a review on it a long time ago, with dozens of pics of test cuts.


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Top is glued up*
> 
> I am very happy with the quality of cut I am getting with the Fussion blade, and have no reservations about gluing up the panels right off of the TS. Smoother and straighter than my jointer produces (granted, it's a really old jointer).
> 
> ...


Nice progress Matt…...glad to hear your daughter is taking care of the safety issues!


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Top is glued up*
> 
> I am very happy with the quality of cut I am getting with the Fussion blade, and have no reservations about gluing up the panels right off of the TS. Smoother and straighter than my jointer produces (granted, it's a really old jointer).
> 
> ...


Ive got a few freud blades but i dont know if either is a fusion


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Top is glued up*
> 
> I am very happy with the quality of cut I am getting with the Fussion blade, and have no reservations about gluing up the panels right off of the TS. Smoother and straighter than my jointer produces (granted, it's a really old jointer).
> 
> ...


It's great that you can work together and that she is being exposed to woodworking early.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Top is glued up*
> 
> I am very happy with the quality of cut I am getting with the Fussion blade, and have no reservations about gluing up the panels right off of the TS. Smoother and straighter than my jointer produces (granted, it's a really old jointer).
> 
> ...


The Fusion is one of their "industrial" line blades and I don't think you'll see it in home centers.

It runs ~$90-100, but that's a LOT less than a Forrest WWII


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Top is glued up*
> 
> I am very happy with the quality of cut I am getting with the Fussion blade, and have no reservations about gluing up the panels right off of the TS. Smoother and straighter than my jointer produces (granted, it's a really old jointer).
> 
> ...


Just checked. Mine are diablos.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Top is glued up*
> 
> I am very happy with the quality of cut I am getting with the Fussion blade, and have no reservations about gluing up the panels right off of the TS. Smoother and straighter than my jointer produces (granted, it's a really old jointer).
> 
> ...


Here it is with the clamps off. Nice and flat and ready for sanding.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Top is glued up*
> 
> I am very happy with the quality of cut I am getting with the Fussion blade, and have no reservations about gluing up the panels right off of the TS. Smoother and straighter than my jointer produces (granted, it's a really old jointer).
> 
> ...


Looks good.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Top is glued up*
> 
> I am very happy with the quality of cut I am getting with the Fussion blade, and have no reservations about gluing up the panels right off of the TS. Smoother and straighter than my jointer produces (granted, it's a really old jointer).
> 
> ...


Precious moments for sure. Savor them all.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Cleaned up the top and sanded.... almost blew it.*

So this is the one tool in my shop that has time and time again brought me to the brink of catastrophe….










Within the first 60 seconds of sanding with 100 grit, I had put several depressions in the top. And of course, I started on the better of the two sides. :^(

I had no problems using the belt sander on my first daughters hope chest in Red Oak, but lesson learned today…. Mahogany is not nearly as hard of a hard wood and Oak.

Here's what we used for the save….










We went over the entire panel with the scraper, and were able to get the depressions out. Then on the other side, we abandoned the belt sander and used the large 2" timber framing chisel for paring the glue lines off and then scraped the glue lines. Here's my girl using the scraper…. I told her not to think about it, but rather to feel it, and adjust the angle and bow until she could tell she was getting a good scrape.



















Then we hit it with the random orbital sander, starting with 150 and finishing with 220. And this is what we wound up with when we were done.










Next job is bread boards.

Adios


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## lightcs1776 (Nov 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Cleaned up the top and sanded.... almost blew it.*
> 
> So this is the one tool in my shop that has time and time again brought me to the brink of catastrophe….
> 
> ...


Great pictures, Matt. Father - daughter days make for sweet memories.


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## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Cleaned up the top and sanded.... almost blew it.*
> 
> So this is the one tool in my shop that has time and time again brought me to the brink of catastrophe….
> 
> ...


Good times. Looking forward to when my little girl can help me more in the shop rather than getting in the way. Not that I don't love having her around, but still.


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## Bigrock (Apr 16, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Cleaned up the top and sanded.... almost blew it.*
> 
> So this is the one tool in my shop that has time and time again brought me to the brink of catastrophe….
> 
> ...


hi

Hi:
No, you are correct, you cannot use a belt sander on Mahogany. I also learned that the hard way. But, you saved the day and your daughter learn how to use a new tool. You are having fun with your daughter and she learning new things. What more could you ask for. For me, working with my children has always been a great joy. They always have fun.


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *Cleaned up the top and sanded.... almost blew it.*
> 
> So this is the one tool in my shop that has time and time again brought me to the brink of catastrophe….
> 
> ...


I think child labor laws should prevent you putting that poor child to such hard labor. I'm disappointed. I thought you were a nice, upstanding guy. hmm
Gonna be a nice hope chest, tho


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Cleaned up the top and sanded.... almost blew it.*
> 
> So this is the one tool in my shop that has time and time again brought me to the brink of catastrophe….
> 
> ...


Nice save! It's very cool that she's helping. Mahogany looks great.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Cleaned up the top and sanded.... almost blew it.*
> 
> So this is the one tool in my shop that has time and time again brought me to the brink of catastrophe….
> 
> ...


I have found belt sanders to be great for rough carpentry….
Not so good for fine woodworking.

What that means is that a belt sander is perfect for all my projects!!! ;^)

Oh, BTW: Great save, the chest will be a keeper….
For generations to come!!!

Carry on….


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *Cleaned up the top and sanded.... almost blew it.*
> 
> So this is the one tool in my shop that has time and time again brought me to the brink of catastrophe….
> 
> ...


Hey Matt, Dan your almost neighbor here. It's great working with your daughter. I've had the opportunity to have mine around for a couple of projects before. Mine are much older of course but it is satisfying. I've got to get going on a chest this summer for one of my daughters that's getting married in September. I'll be making this one with cherry and curly maple panels. I love working with cherry. It's a very 'good behaving' wood. Mahogany is the other but man it makes a lot of dust! But it finishes up beautifully with some oils.
Can't wait to see the finished product. Your helper certainly seems to be getting into it.

I have a great local supplier for some common woods near us. Best prices around too. pm me if you want the particulars.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Cleaned up the top and sanded.... almost blew it.*
> 
> So this is the one tool in my shop that has time and time again brought me to the brink of catastrophe….
> 
> ...


Every time I pick up my belt sander, I wind up regretting it! But you got it fixed and lookin great.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Cleaned up the top and sanded.... almost blew it.*
> 
> So this is the one tool in my shop that has time and time again brought me to the brink of catastrophe….
> 
> ...


Hi Dan, Yes, please let me know your wood source. I've never worked with Cherry, but I've hot one more daughter to build a chest for after this one, so that might be a good option.

Did ya ever take a crackpot at re-sawing that maple?

Yes Andy, I think I might be ready to hang up the belt sander for a while.


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## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Cleaned up the top and sanded.... almost blew it.*
> 
> So this is the one tool in my shop that has time and time again brought me to the brink of catastrophe….
> 
> ...


Matt looking good ,and i really try not to use a belt sander it always leads me to more repair , creating some great memories with this build ,


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Cleaned up the top and sanded.... almost blew it.*
> 
> So this is the one tool in my shop that has time and time again brought me to the brink of catastrophe….
> 
> ...


Quality time with your Daughter, and a quality build coming along nicely.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Cleaned up the top and sanded.... almost blew it.*
> 
> So this is the one tool in my shop that has time and time again brought me to the brink of catastrophe….
> 
> ...


I have a belt sander, its smaller than yours and its still lethal along with the fact its possibly the oldest tool I have and for obvious reasons its reached that age is due to not being used much.

There is a joke somewhere about tools and their wiley ways and the belt sander is included, ony thing is its very true in the case of a belt sander, I think is closest friend is the chainsaw!

The most amusing use for them that I know of was belt sander races …and didnt that cause a scatter!

Nice save!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Aftèr a long delay, we have bread boards*

It's been a 2 year delay, so I guess I better get going on this project again…

The bread boards were previously planed at the same time as the top boards.

I cut the dados with a slot cutting router bit on the router table. Then I cut the top to length on the TS with a panel sled. I cut the tennons on the ends with a hand router and a rabbiting bit with a guide bearing.










I cut the slots short on the front side of the bread boards to hide the joint…










One of these ruptured when mounted, so I had to chisel out the blow out square and plug it.










I ripped both sides to get the final width and the ripped the ends in the panel sled to get the final length.

Sanded 80-150-220 and have a silly smooth surface.


----------



## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Aftèr a long delay, we have bread boards*
> 
> It's been a 2 year delay, so I guess I better get going on this project again…
> 
> ...


Beautiful job Matt, really fetching. Great work. Fine craftsmanship.


----------



## lightcs1776 (Nov 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Aftèr a long delay, we have bread boards*
> 
> It's been a 2 year delay, so I guess I better get going on this project again…
> 
> ...


Looking good, Matt. Nice to see you back at it. Funny how busy life can get. Great choice of wood too.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Aftèr a long delay, we have bread boards*
> 
> It's been a 2 year delay, so I guess I better get going on this project again…
> 
> ...


Progress, Yay!


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Aftèr a long delay, we have bread boards*
> 
> It's been a 2 year delay, so I guess I better get going on this project again…
> 
> ...


oh yes


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Back at it...*

I've finally wrapped up my last interfering project and have cleared the decks for action to get back into this project…

My intention is to work it until completion…

Broke out the raised panel set and reviewed my plans…









Then I sorted my stock, selected boards for the long rails, cut off the checked ends, cut them to 3/4" over sized, and set up the style bit on my router table….









I used 13,000 rpm on the router (Porter Cable 3HP VS) and it cut effortlessly, leaving a very nice finish…

Unfortunately, I discovered a hidden defect in one of the boards, but this one was already designated for the back side and I'm going to see if I can get away with filling the little blow outs.

Next up, short rails, then styles, then glue up panels.

I'm tight on stock, so I have to plan this out carefully.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Back at it...*
> 
> I've finally wrapped up my last interfering project and have cleared the decks for action to get back into this project…
> 
> ...


Good to see you back at this.

BTW: The contest is for a chair build…. ya better hurry!!!


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Back at it...*
> 
> I've finally wrapped up my last interfering project and have cleared the decks for action to get back into this project…
> 
> ...


Randy… I'm doing my best to keep up (or back) with you… :^p


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Back at it...*
> 
> I've finally wrapped up my last interfering project and have cleared the decks for action to get back into this project…
> 
> ...


Good to see you making progress, Matt!


----------



## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Back at it...*
> 
> I've finally wrapped up my last interfering project and have cleared the decks for action to get back into this project…
> 
> ...


Ah, the smell of sawdust in the air . . .

Good on ya for staying with it, Matt. Your daughter will love the finished project.


----------



## MadJester (Sep 30, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Back at it...*
> 
> I've finally wrapped up my last interfering project and have cleared the decks for action to get back into this project…
> 
> ...


Nice…


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Back at it...*
> 
> I've finally wrapped up my last interfering project and have cleared the decks for action to get back into this project…
> 
> ...


Good deal Matt. Get after it.


----------



## lightcs1776 (Nov 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Back at it...*
> 
> I've finally wrapped up my last interfering project and have cleared the decks for action to get back into this project…
> 
> ...


Nice to see you are back to making progress. That is beautiful wood. I will be watching for the next step in your journey.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Back at it...*
> 
> I've finally wrapped up my last interfering project and have cleared the decks for action to get back into this project…
> 
> ...


Looking good Matt. Carry on


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*gluing up panels with the new clamping cauls*

Got a couple hours in the shop tonight. Sorting boards to match grain, color and shade, and then put together the first of several panel glue ups.

It's been >1 year since I joined and planed these, so I gave each board a quick rip on the TS to straighten the edges. The Fusion blade gave me a very clean cut that was ready for glue.

First time using the new cauls (posted as a project some time ago if anyone wants to see more info) and they worked very well. I can hardly feel a seem between the boards.










Of course, I'm a glutton for punishment, so I put in #20 biscuits anyways…. primarily so I can say to myself "I didn't waste money on the biscuit jointer after all"

Fun, fun, fun :^)


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Panels Cleaned Up*

I finished the 5 panel glue ups and put the clamping cauls and clamps away, and cleared the bench for the next step, cleaning up the panels.

I wiped off as much of the glue that squeezed out off right away with wet paper towels, so the tops were in pretty good shape.










The bottoms were a different story.

















I like to take the big boogers off by paring with a large 2" timber framing chisel, using it like a slick.









Then I hit the joints with a card scraper.









And I'm ready to sand.









I use a down draft table that doubles as my TS outfeed table, with a shop vac connected to the sanders, and a Jet AFS air filter mounted above, and I ware a dust mask.









I started with the belt sander, 80 grit, then 100 grit.









I should have started with 60 grit, as I got impatient with the 80 and applied too much force, which generated too much heat and made the seam fail (twice).









Then 150 grit on the RO sander.









Here's one all done. Something funny is going on with the light here… the color is actually uniform across the surface.









And here's all 5 finished up.









Looks like the filter is doing its job.









And that's all she wrote. Time to put a dry shirt on and sit down to enjoy a cold one.

Thanks for stopping by to take a look.


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Panels Cleaned Up*
> 
> I finished the 5 panel glue ups and put the clamping cauls and clamps away, and cleared the bench for the next step, cleaning up the panels.
> 
> ...


Good progress Matt.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Panels Cleaned Up*
> 
> I finished the 5 panel glue ups and put the clamping cauls and clamps away, and cleared the bench for the next step, cleaning up the panels.
> 
> ...


Moving right along. Looking really good


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*How I prep card scrapers.*

I make no claim to be a "real" galoot with the card scraper, but this process to renew the burr has worked for me.

After a lot of use, the burr will get mangled and need to be created afresh. I start by setting up the scraper in a make shift jig using the bench vise and a couple scrap blocks of identical thickness. I set the scraper just above the blocks using a feeler gauge to get uniform height exposed.









Then I file the old burr off with a mill file, using the jig to keep the file square.









Then I go to the granite surface plate and stone out the rough filed surface, using the side face to keep the stone square (note: I keep the granite plate set up for scary sharp sharpening).









Next, I remove any small burrs residual from the filing.









And inspect the edge to see if it's smoothe and square.









I made a burnishing tool by putting the shank of a broken solid carbide router bit into an old screw driver handle.









Burnishing the new burr is just swiping the tool across the edge at ~ 20 deg. angle

When your all done, you want the scraper to make shavings and not saw dust.

















After some use, I use the burnisher to renew the burr. This can be done several times, until you have to start all over.

Not a first class setup, but it gets the job done pretty well.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *How I prep card scrapers.*
> 
> I make no claim to be a "real" galoot with the card scraper, but this process to renew the burr has worked for me.
> 
> ...


Interesting post, I am not sure what your inteperation of "galoot" is, but what is your opinion as to the finish produced by a scraper is when compared to the grit system?

Its obviously in the 1000 Grit or higher?


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *How I prep card scrapers.*
> 
> I make no claim to be a "real" galoot with the card scraper, but this process to renew the burr has worked for me.
> 
> ...


Rob, as I understand it, the term galoot refers to someone who prefers to use hand tools and shuns power tools.

I certainly think that you can get, in the right hands, an excellent finish with a scraper. But my hands are not the right hands. So I don't use the scraper for final finish. I only use it to clean up the dried glue in prep for sanding.

One problem I have is that the slope of the grain is not the same from board to board in my glue ups, so regardless which direction I scrape, I'm always going "up hill" on some boards.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *How I prep card scrapers.*
> 
> I make no claim to be a "real" galoot with the card scraper, but this process to renew the burr has worked for me.
> 
> ...


OK I found it to be:

Simple Definition of galoot : a man or boy; especially : one who is foolish or awkward
Which I thought was very strange thing to say, hence the question
Glad to hear a different and more related meaning
The humble scraper is a tool I could not work without, or if I had to results would be less professional.

Also how do you prevent your tools floating away?


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

ssnvet said:


> *How I prep card scrapers.*
> 
> I make no claim to be a "real" galoot with the card scraper, but this process to renew the burr has worked for me.
> 
> ...


I struggle to get a clean, straight edge on my scraper. Your method looks like just what I need. I think I'll also work on a similar 45º setup for my #80 blades.

Thanks!


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *How I prep card scrapers.*
> 
> I make no claim to be a "real" galoot with the card scraper, but this process to renew the burr has worked for me.
> 
> ...


Thank you for sharing this method, I really need to practice my skills in this area


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*panels cut to size and styles prepped*

My first big mistake happened earlier this week when I set up the TS sled to cut my panels to size.
One of these things is not like the other… 3/4" short to be precise… and of course it was the panel with the nicest wood figure.









So after sulking for a few days, I went back into my design and made it 1.5" shorter, and cut the other side panels to match. I should have set up with a stop block like this the first time around…









Then I moved on to prepping the stock for the corner post/styles, doing my best to cut around the splits and checks…









Here they are all ready to rout. Just one piece that still has a split. I'll have to try to stabilize that one with CA glue…









Decided to pre-sand before routing…









So far I'm pretty happy with the Amana AGE line raised panel set as I'm getting a clean, effortless cut… 









A couple sticks had hidden defects that appeared after routing, but nothing a little Timber Mate filler can't take care of…









I thought I'd give a shout out for the DC on the Rockler router table tops, as it is catching 99% of the waste…









Here's the stack so far. This is my first time attempting raised panels and things go pretty fast once you have the router table set up…









The Inspector General stopped in to check up on my progress. Though she's not so interested in helping out, she is still very interested in receiving the finished product…









That's all for now. Thanks for stopping in.


----------



## lightcs1776 (Nov 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *panels cut to size and styles prepped*
> 
> My first big mistake happened earlier this week when I set up the TS sled to cut my panels to size.
> One of these things is not like the other… 3/4" short to be precise… and of course it was the panel with the nicest wood figure.
> ...


Great progress. Looks like a great inspector too. She looks happy with your work.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *panels cut to size and styles prepped*
> 
> My first big mistake happened earlier this week when I set up the TS sled to cut my panels to size.
> One of these things is not like the other… 3/4" short to be precise… and of course it was the panel with the nicest wood figure.
> ...


You get back in the saddle a whole lot fast than I after an oops, Matt. Your IG looks very appreciative!


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *panels cut to size and styles prepped*
> 
> My first big mistake happened earlier this week when I set up the TS sled to cut my panels to size.
> One of these things is not like the other… 3/4" short to be precise… and of course it was the panel with the nicest wood figure.
> ...


Yep, she looks happy for the outlook


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*one step back*

When I glued up my panels one of the end panels had some week spots that looked as if they might crack, but the grain was very interesting on these sticks and I wanted to use them if I could.

Everything looked good after the initial glue up, but after a couple weeks sitting dormant while I was distracted, the panel cracked almost right down the middle.










Fortunately, the crack was very close to parallel with the edge of the panel, so I decided to cut a kerf and see if I could rip it out. Panel was a little short (and slightly bowed) so I broke out the sled to keep things stable and safe.










This worked very well, and I only had to make one add'l pass. This one was done as a normal rip cut, trimming off ~1/16", which took out the rest of the crack and because this was a less wide piece, it laid more flat on the table and changed the angle of the cut just slightly, which took out most of the bow.

Glued up and will trim the other end panel to match the total width of this one when done.










So I'm "almost" back to where I started from :^o


----------



## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *one step back*
> 
> When I glued up my panels one of the end panels had some week spots that looked as if they might crack, but the grain was very interesting on these sticks and I wanted to use them if I could.
> 
> ...


So sorry Matt, wood, what're ya gonna do, can't live with it, can't shoot it.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *one step back*
> 
> When I glued up my panels one of the end panels had some week spots that looked as if they might crack, but the grain was very interesting on these sticks and I wanted to use them if I could.
> 
> ...


Here's the repaired panel….

I can barely see the glue line, can you?


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *one step back*
> 
> When I glued up my panels one of the end panels had some week spots that looked as if they might crack, but the grain was very interesting on these sticks and I wanted to use them if I could.
> 
> ...


What glue line…


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*A little metal working*

This entry illustrates metal working in support of woodworking. I snapped the pics and added it to the blog thinking that some of you might find this work interesting.

The panel raising bit from my new set is too big for the hole in my router table plate…










So I broke down the table to have at modifying the aluminum plate. On a side note, you can see here that this beastly 3 HP PC VS router has been modified to put an incremental depth dial on the plunge mechanism, which is handy for use on the router table.










Fortunately, one of my other hobbies is metal working, so I figured I could mount the plate in the four jaw chuck and bore out the hole…. No joy! The plate is too big for the lathes ~10" swing










So that left using the boring bar on the mill…










But the plate is too big for my 5" machinist vise…










Fortunately, you can flip the jaws outboard on these vises…










Now it fits…










Next step is to indicate in the existing hole, so it's on center with the mill's spindle axis…










Then mount the boring head and go to town. The boring bar has a dovetailed mechanism that allows you to precisely move the cutter position with a lead screw and a dial graduated to .001" increments. You have to remember that your diameter changes by double the dialed amount however. I was cutting ~0.030" with each pass. Note: I had to add a spacer in the vise so the boring head was clear of the movable vise block.










The actual machining didn't take very long, and the aluminum cut so easily that I over shot and bored the hole a little too big. Fortunately, I avoided fouling the threaded holes for the plate insert.

Now the raised panel bit fits…










I'm quite the novice when it comes to metal working. I understand the processes, but lack experience and it takes me a long time to muddle through. This little modification took most of the afternoon, and the clean up took another hour after dinner. But it's done now, and I did it myself. :^)


----------



## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *A little metal working*
> 
> This entry illustrates metal working in support of woodworking. I snapped the pics and added it to the blog thinking that some of you might find this work interesting.
> 
> ...


Good on ya, Matt. I just knew you'd get it done somehow, some way.


----------



## Festus56 (Jan 14, 2015)

ssnvet said:


> *A little metal working*
> 
> This entry illustrates metal working in support of woodworking. I snapped the pics and added it to the blog thinking that some of you might find this work interesting.
> 
> ...


That turned out nice Matt. I would love to be able to do modifications like that !!


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *A little metal working*
> 
> This entry illustrates metal working in support of woodworking. I snapped the pics and added it to the blog thinking that some of you might find this work interesting.
> 
> ...


It's nice to have toys to fix the tools….
or is that tools to fix the toys….

Either way…. well done!!!


----------



## Mike_D_S (May 3, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *A little metal working*
> 
> This entry illustrates metal working in support of woodworking. I snapped the pics and added it to the blog thinking that some of you might find this work interesting.
> 
> ...


First off, nice clean work.

However, I'll follow up with one word of caution as it looks like the clearance between the raising bit and the router plate hole is still very tight. I'd just take my cutting carefully as you are essentially relying on the rigidity of the entire system to maintain that clearance.

Mike


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*First raised panels (ever)*

Well this was a little nerve racking, but it seems to have turned out OK. After cutting a couple test pieces and adjusting the set up, I produced my first ever raised panel. I cut these in one pass and got just a little burn on one of the long edges…










Here's the router table set up…










I used 1/4" scrap Masonite for a zero clearance sacrificial fence…










The panel had already been sanded and the thickness was no longer perfectly uniform, and I think that's why I got this wiggle…










And of course, I had another crack open up on the end grain. This one's going to get stabilized with CA glue…










All went well accept for the shop vac dust collection on the router table….










One down, five more to go. Thanks for looking in.


----------



## lightcs1776 (Nov 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *First raised panels (ever)*
> 
> Well this was a little nerve racking, but it seems to have turned out OK. After cutting a couple test pieces and adjusting the set up, I produced my first ever raised panel. I cut these in one pass and got just a little burn on one of the long edges…
> 
> ...


Looks great. Love the way it is coming out.


----------



## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *First raised panels (ever)*
> 
> Well this was a little nerve racking, but it seems to have turned out OK. After cutting a couple test pieces and adjusting the set up, I produced my first ever raised panel. I cut these in one pass and got just a little burn on one of the long edges…
> 
> ...


Go get'em Matt !


----------



## Mike_D_S (May 3, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *First raised panels (ever)*
> 
> Well this was a little nerve racking, but it seems to have turned out OK. After cutting a couple test pieces and adjusting the set up, I produced my first ever raised panel. I cut these in one pass and got just a little burn on one of the long edges…
> 
> ...


A big thumbs up, you're my kind of woodworker. No matter what the quality of that first raised panel, you've already made the big leap to just try and and see what happens. I think a lot of guys would look at that and just take another path, but there is a lot to be said for just going for it.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *First raised panels (ever)*
> 
> Well this was a little nerve racking, but it seems to have turned out OK. After cutting a couple test pieces and adjusting the set up, I produced my first ever raised panel. I cut these in one pass and got just a little burn on one of the long edges…
> 
> ...


Thanks for the encouraging words guys.

I wish I could say I dove right in without any fear, but truth be told, I've been hemming and hawing about this for several months. But now that I've cut one, with fairly good results, I wish I hadn't delayed so much.


----------



## makeBrooklyn (Aug 20, 2016)

ssnvet said:


> *First raised panels (ever)*
> 
> Well this was a little nerve racking, but it seems to have turned out OK. After cutting a couple test pieces and adjusting the set up, I produced my first ever raised panel. I cut these in one pass and got just a little burn on one of the long edges…
> 
> ...


Well done! Good luck with the rest of the project!


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *First raised panels (ever)*
> 
> Well this was a little nerve racking, but it seems to have turned out OK. After cutting a couple test pieces and adjusting the set up, I produced my first ever raised panel. I cut these in one pass and got just a little burn on one of the long edges…
> 
> ...


Carry on. Looking very good


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Finished raising the rest of the panels*

All six are done. All were routed in one shot. Follow on passes made here and there to even up the cuts.



















This one is my favorite and will go on the front face for sure…


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Finished raising the rest of the panels*
> 
> All six are done. All were routed in one shot. Follow on passes made here and there to even up the cuts.
> 
> ...


My router table is a Rockler top mounted to a folding stand salvaged from the dump. I used to pull the router and collapse the stand and hang it on the wall long ago. But I have room to leave it set up all the time in my new shop.

The shop vac dust collection off the fence usually catches about 90%, but with the large hole exposed by this bit, I'd say half of the mess wound up on the floor. I ran the air filter on high the entire time and the pre-filter is pretty well caked over with Mahogany dust.

I think its long past time for me to build a proper router table with DC hook ups to the back of an enclosed router box.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Profile sanding the raised panel end grain.*

Santa gave me a multi-tool for Christmas and I used a Home Depot gift card to buy some accessories for it. I picked up a Dremel profile sanding kit. Turns out the radius of one of the profiles matches the concave section of my raised panel Ogee, so I set up and sanded the end grain. Started with 120 grit and then stepped up to 180.

Here's the kit….









Here's the profile I used…









and here's my setup on my downdraft TS outfeed table…









This really tamed the rough end grain with just a half dozen passes of each grit.

The long grain came off the router very smooth, so I'm not sure if I want to hit it with the 180 or not.

This was my first time using the DeWalt multi tool and I really like the trigger, as it makes it easy to slowly ramp up the variable speed.

Thanks for looking in & Happy Trails :^)


----------



## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Profile sanding the raised panel end grain.*
> 
> Santa gave me a multi-tool for Christmas and I used a Home Depot gift card to buy some accessories for it. I picked up a Dremel profile sanding kit. Turns out the radius of one of the profiles matches the concave section of my raised panel Ogee, so I set up and sanded the end grain. Started with 120 grit and then stepped up to 180.
> 
> ...


Daughter should love it sir


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Profile sanding the raised panel end grain.*
> 
> Santa gave me a multi-tool for Christmas and I used a Home Depot gift card to buy some accessories for it. I picked up a Dremel profile sanding kit. Turns out the radius of one of the profiles matches the concave section of my raised panel Ogee, so I set up and sanded the end grain. Started with 120 grit and then stepped up to 180.
> 
> ...


Fantastic! Santa knows.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Hand sanding & sealing the panels*

Went to Home Depot today and bought sanding sponges, sand paper and a nice little sanding block…

All hand sanding tonight, working through the grits 150 - 180 - 220










Then I vacuumed the panels, blew them off with air, wiped them down with a tack clothe (mistake?), buffed the out with a cotton rag, and hit them with a rattle can of Shellac as a seal coat.










My daughter doesn't want a gloss finish, so I'm thinking satin laquer, and she wants to be able to feel the grain.

Some of the grain is a little open and porous.










I'm not sure if I should fill it or not.

Any recommendations?


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Hand sanding & sealing the panels*
> 
> Went to Home Depot today and bought sanding sponges, sand paper and a nice little sanding block…
> 
> ...


OBTW… did I mention that these sanding blocks and sand paper are stinkin' expensive?

Ouch!


----------



## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *Hand sanding & sealing the panels*
> 
> Went to Home Depot today and bought sanding sponges, sand paper and a nice little sanding block…
> 
> ...


Looks like you've got your finishing routine down pretty well. Although I just vacuum the parts before applying finish, and not blow them off with compressed air. The reason for this is, that blowing them off blows all the dust into the air, and it settles back down onto the parts. Vacuuming alone removes the dust without dispersing it into the air.

As for tack cloths-don't like 'em. They're gummy, stick to the parts, and can leave behind residue that can affect the finish.

Looking forward to seeing the finished project!


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Hand sanding & sealing the panels*
> 
> Went to Home Depot today and bought sanding sponges, sand paper and a nice little sanding block…
> 
> ...


Hey Dean,

I agree that blowing the parts with air does foul up the air, but I'm always amazed how much more dust comes out of the pores and crevices when I do so. It was warm enough the last couple days that I could spray in the other side of the basement. But now it's getting cold again.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*I screwed up big time :^(*

The Amana AGM raised panel set I'm using has a back cutter and came set up with a large bearing.










Everything turned out great, but I did think that the depth of the Ogee wasn't quite what I thought it should be and the panels don't drop into the styles very far.










The instructions that came with the set seemed great, but did not include any illustrations or reference to the back cutter feature. So I used the bits as they came set up from the factory…...... WRONG!!!!

So I go to Amana's web site tonight and find a brochure for the raised panel set with the back cutter and it turns out that there's a smaller bearing that came with the set, which I should have used.


















Bad news… I've finish sanded and sealed three of the six panels already…

Good news… The router table is still set up at exactly the correct height, so I can swap the bearings and cut the deeper Ogee.

Bad news… In order to prevent tearing out the trailing edge when routing the end grain, I backed up the panel with a piece of scrap and I cut both end grain ends first before cutting the long grain….

BUT HOW CAN I BACK UP THE END GRAIN CUTS AND PREVENT TEAR OUT NOW THAT I'VE ALREADY ROUTED ALL FOUR SIDES?

Needless to say, I'm pretty frustrated and do not want to lose these panels or have ugly tear out on each one.


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## Mikesawdust (Jan 29, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *I screwed up big time :^(*
> 
> The Amana AGM raised panel set I'm using has a back cutter and came set up with a large bearing.
> 
> ...


I've recut panels before and not had issues with tear out. The panel already being relieved in the long edges makes it work, just go slow at the last part of each end, and back the very edge. Any small chipping in the face should be cleared when you do the long grain.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *I screwed up big time :^(*
> 
> The Amana AGM raised panel set I'm using has a back cutter and came set up with a large bearing.
> 
> ...


The only tip that I can add is always cut the end grain first, then do the long grain sides.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *I screwed up big time :^(*
> 
> The Amana AGM raised panel set I'm using has a back cutter and came set up with a large bearing.
> 
> ...


You may try some sacrificial sides, (cut to the incorrect profile with its matching cutter) attach them and then re route both.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Re-routed and sanded the raised panels*

Here you can see the difference in the profile when I used the correct guide bearing…










Lots of sanding…


















I had a small blowout from scraping the glue off of one of the panels and there was some pretty deep grain , so I decided to try out filling the grain using Timber Mate on this one.










Here they are all done with one coat of spray shellac.


























Now I just need to figure out how to match the color of the wood filler.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Re-routed and sanded the raised panels*
> 
> Here you can see the difference in the profile when I used the correct guide bearing…
> 
> ...


Hand sanding isn't fun. Great job though.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Re-routed and sanded the raised panels*
> 
> Here you can see the difference in the profile when I used the correct guide bearing…
> 
> ...


They came out beautifully


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Cope cuts, Cross cuts and Bevel cuts*

I banged out a quick cross cut sled as my sliding miter is a little fickle maintaining a square cur…









Then I cut all of the rails and styles to their final length

I had to sneak in a side project to make a coping sled (see my latest project post)...









So I was then able to make all of my cope cut on the rail ends…









I'm going to use 45 deg. bevel rip cuts on the to join the outer styles in each corner. This is only the second time I've ever tilted the blade on the TS and I had to make a new ZCI for the TS so I could do 45 deg bevel rip cuts…









This was my set up with the fence moved to the right of the blade. The Gripper made this very stable and safe…









I thought about picking up a Wixley digital angle readout, but decided to borrow the digital angle readout we use at work….

















Here you can see. Test fit…

















Getting ready to assemble the panel frames….

Thanks for looking in.


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Cope cuts, Cross cuts and Bevel cuts*
> 
> I banged out a quick cross cut sled as my sliding miter is a little fickle maintaining a square cur…
> 
> ...


Nice work, Matt! Hubby got me one of those digital bevel gauges for Christmas. Haven't had a chance to use it yet. You are gonna get this thing built!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Cope cuts, Cross cuts and Bevel cuts*
> 
> I banged out a quick cross cut sled as my sliding miter is a little fickle maintaining a square cur…
> 
> ...


Very well done Matt. X-cut sleds really are a gr8 addition to any tablesaw


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Corners glued up and first frame glued up.*

I glued up one corner with biscuits and clamp blocks and a second with no biscuits and painters tape….










Painter tape option was much easier and actually came out nicer. So I did the remaining two with tape.

Glued up the first frame tonight…


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Corners glued up and first frame glued up.*
> 
> I glued up one corner with biscuits and clamp blocks and a second with no biscuits and painters tape….
> 
> ...


This is coming along so nicely. It looks like it's gong to be an outstanding piece with a lot of fine craftsmanship.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Corners glued up and first frame glued up.*
> 
> I glued up one corner with biscuits and clamp blocks and a second with no biscuits and painters tape….
> 
> ...


Hey Matt,

Really looking good…..like your attention to detail!

Also - I'm a believer in the tape method for the mitered corners…..


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Corners glued up and first frame glued up.*
> 
> I glued up one corner with biscuits and clamp blocks and a second with no biscuits and painters tape….
> 
> ...


Looking like some good eye candy. Clamps clamps clamps….........never have enough


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Interior done finish started*

Pine cleats glued and screwed. Plywood bottom installed, and cedar liner glued in…










Finish sanded one side and padded three coats of shellac.



















It took me a while to find the lid stays I purchased long ago… The package says this is antique brass… But it looks dull black. I'm not crazy about it


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Interior done finish started*
> 
> Pine cleats glued and screwed. Plywood bottom installed, and cedar liner glued in…
> 
> ...


Great job on the chest. I have used the same lid lifts before. Not a big fan of them.


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Interior done finish started*
> 
> Pine cleats glued and screwed. Plywood bottom installed, and cedar liner glued in…
> 
> ...


Making good progress, Matt! Um, looks like black to me too.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Interior done finish started*
> 
> Pine cleats glued and screwed. Plywood bottom installed, and cedar liner glued in…
> 
> ...


Definitely did a lot of thought into this piece


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *Interior done finish started*
> 
> Pine cleats glued and screwed.  Plywood bottom installed, and cedar liner glued in…
> 
> ...


Definitely on the home stretch, Matt!

I like the idea of cedar boards to keep things smelling nice, but am curious how you accommodated wood movement. Wouldn't want her to hear a loud bang in the middle of the night!

I'm intrigued by padding of shellac, would you mind sharing what it's all about?

And those hinges don't look like brass to me, either-corroded?


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Interior done finish started*
> 
> Pine cleats glued and screwed. Plywood bottom installed, and cedar liner glued in…
> 
> ...


Hey Dean,

The plywood bottom is probably the biggest concern for resisting wood movement, as it is glued and screwed yo the pine 1×1 perimeter cleats. But it does have 1/16" gap all around it. There's also 1/32" all around the cedar, though it doesn't show in the pics. All the Mahogany and The Cedar is bone dry, so summer expansion is the greatest concern. The raised panels are all floating with 1/8" gap all around, and the gap has little foam blocks to keep the panel centered,,, though when I glued up the frames, some of the glue squeezed out around the panels making them somewhat fixed in those spots. I'm finishing all the surfaces inside and out with Shellac, so hopefully that will slow any moisture issues.

But in all honesty, the first hope chest I made for daughter #1 did develope a couple small cracks :^(


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *Interior done finish started*
> 
> Pine cleats glued and screwed. Plywood bottom installed, and cedar liner glued in…
> 
> ...





> ...
> 
> But in all honesty, the first hope chest I made for daughter #1 did develope a couple small cracks :^(
> 
> - Mainiac Matt


Yeah, you've definitely go to account for wood movement.

Even in the most unexpected places…....

A few years ago, on one of This Old House's home projects, they had previously helped build a timber frame home, and during this newer project, Kevin O'Connor went to visit the previous project. The homeowners told him, that as the timbers dried out-and cracked-it sounded like gunshots going off in the house….....!

I always worry when I see woodworkers use solid wood panels, since it makes me wonder if they accounted for wood movement. I'd hate to see a beautiful project ruined because of it.

Anyway, keep up the good work on this project, and I'll stop in from time to time to see how it's going!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Interior done finish started*
> 
> Pine cleats glued and screwed. Plywood bottom installed, and cedar liner glued in…
> 
> ...


Very nice looking chest


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Padding Shellac*

Some people have expressed interest in the shellac finish I'm using…. Here's a write up on how I do it, which I learned from Peter Gedrys. You can see some of his amazing work here

Here's the finished front (in really bad light)









Here's the top with just one coat on it.









Go to minute 25 in Peter's finishing seminar video to learn this from the master.

Here's the routine, as I'm doing it.

I sand through the grits on the RO jitterbug… 120-150-180-220. Then I vacuum, then I blow off with air (amazing how much dust is still left in grain and pours). The I wipe down with a clean white cotton rag wetted liberally with lacquer thinner (even more dust comes up).

First off, you definitely want to wear Nitrile gloves, as they shellac gets sticky. I wipe my fingers with an old cotton diaper damp with alcohol when needed.

Make a shellac pad by cutting ~18" x18" of cheese clothe and fold into a palm size, smooth thick pad. The cut a ~8" x 8" square of clean, tight weave, cotton clothe (or linen). Wet the cheese clothe pad with denatured alcohol and wrap cloth around it like a rag doll head. Then squeeze out the alcohol. Now your ready to roll. open up the clothe and dip the pad into the shellac. I'm dipping right into the can of 2# cut blonde shellac (Zinser) and then wrap the outer clothe around the inner ball (note… you unwrap and dip the inner ball, don't just dip the whole thing, as that won't soak it up and fully charge the pad).

Start wiping it on with a circular or figure 8 motion, maintaining constant contact between the pad and the surface. Start with zero pressure and as the shellac in the pad is consumed, start to apply pressure to squeeze out more. There's a feel to this…. not to wet, not too dry…. but just experiment and you'll quickly pick it up.

The best part is that it's very forgiving, as the next coat can re-dissolve the previous coat and flatten out any wiping marks. Put on a thin coat and after ~30 min, your ready for the next one. I'm putting on 4 thin coats (the photo of the top above is only one coat). When your done, put your pad in a plastic zip lock bag, or a small plastic container, and you can re-use it again and again. Just recharge it with alcohol and it's ready to roll.

I used a #12 sable artist brush for the detail work around the raised panels and it worked very well.

I let the third coat dry over night and then wipe any residual dust with the same damp rag (wetted with lacquer thinner, which appears to have no affect on the shellac finish at all). And then put the 4th coat on. I don't get the uniform gloss until the 4th coat.

I intend to put on a coat of satin spray… probably rattle can lacquer… when I'm done, as my daughter doesn't want a gloss finish (she thinks gloss looks fake, like melamine covered particle board).

The shellac will build a glossy sheen. They say you can rub this out with an abrasive pad to dull it back down to satin, but that sounded a little intimidating to me. I like easy.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Padding Shellac*
> 
> Some people have expressed interest in the shellac finish I'm using…. Here's a write up on how I do it, which I learned from Peter Gedrys. You can see some of his amazing work here
> 
> ...


Looking very good. Thnx for the link also


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## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Padding Shellac*
> 
> Some people have expressed interest in the shellac finish I'm using…. Here's a write up on how I do it, which I learned from Peter Gedrys. You can see some of his amazing work here
> 
> ...


Matt-Good write up on the padding shellac process/technique. I haven't used shellac before but this technique looks like something I can use when I need a nice finish. Nice work on the hope chest.


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *Padding Shellac*
> 
> Some people have expressed interest in the shellac finish I'm using…. Here's a write up on how I do it, which I learned from Peter Gedrys. You can see some of his amazing work here
> 
> ...


Thanks for showing how you're padding out the shellac-sounds a little like French Polishing.

You're right that shellac is pretty forgiving-you can just sand out any mistakes, and then the next coat blends in with the previous one, thus completely removing the mistake.

Knocking the sheen down can be a challenge, though. I've had decent luck with #0000 steel wool, though you've got to really watch how it's going, so that you can get a consistent look. So it can be some tedious work.

Good luck, and keep up the good work!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Mission lacquer count down...*

4 thin coats of a shellac padded on and dry










Touch sanded with 400 grit and soapy water…










Wiped down with water, dry cotton rag, and then a quick wipe with lacquer thinner

Space ace reporting for duty…










10, 9,8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1…......


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Mission lacquer count down...*
> 
> 4 thin coats of a shellac padded on and dry
> 
> ...


Amazing! Plus, you're standing on your head doin it.. Wow!!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Mission lacquer count down...*
> 
> 4 thin coats of a shellac padded on and dry
> 
> ...


Drumroll….............. two coats of Minwax rattle can satin lacquer










Sorry for blinding you with the light off the top of my head…. but I"m pretty pleased with it


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Mission lacquer count down...*
> 
> 4 thin coats of a shellac padded on and dry
> 
> ...


Looking great sir.


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *Mission lacquer count down...*
> 
> 4 thin coats of a shellac padded on and dry
> 
> ...


You're really gaining on it now, Matt!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*All done*

I finally wrapped up the finish with three coats of padded blonde shellac (4 on the lid) and then three coats of satin sheen rattle can lacquer (4 on the lid).

Hardware installation…. full mortise lock, recessed strike plate, hinge and lid stays was all tricky and took much longer than it should have.



















the cat seems to approve….










Wrote up a project post here

Thanks for following along this 3 year odyssey and for all the encouraging comments and helpful hints.


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## mirock (Mar 13, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *All done*
> 
> I finally wrapped up the finish with three coats of padded blonde shellac (4 on the lid) and then three coats of satin sheen rattle can lacquer (4 on the lid).
> 
> ...


Very accurate. Congratulations!


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *All done*
> 
> I finally wrapped up the finish with three coats of padded blonde shellac (4 on the lid) and then three coats of satin sheen rattle can lacquer (4 on the lid).
> 
> ...


Looks like it turned out very well indeed-I'm sure your daughter will love it!


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