# Dust collection for older (~10-20 years old) delta unisaw?!?



## etc6849 (May 29, 2012)

I bought a used Delta Unisaw on craigslist for $450. It had some slight rust, but looks pretty good for the price. It's a right tilt, model 36-812 with a 3HP motor.

I'm not sure of it's origin, so I've taken it all apart. I found the pulleys were 1/4" misaligned (when using a straight edge). I was able to fix this, and now I need new belts and dust collection. I was thinking about getting cogged or vx belts instead of the Delta matched set. Any thoughts?

Attached are pictures of the existing gravity fed chute. The door is off, but the chute empties just below the door that covers the motor. The opening is a narrow rectangle.

I was thinking I would use the existing chute and seal up some of the holes on the chute with silicone. For the slot, I was thinking I would have a sheet metal piece fabricated (kind of the shape of a HVAC register) that would adapt to 4" hose and screw into the chute's opening. Should I go with 4" or make the register bigger? Is there a better way to do the dust collection?

I don't have a dust collector yet, but was thinking about the Harbor Freight model. I believe it uses 4" hose.

Thanks in advance.


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## enurdat1 (Apr 1, 2012)

I just tore my 1994 uni down and replaced the belts, cleaned, waxed, etc. I bought a set of belts at Grainger for about $16 total. For dust collection (I have the same chute) I used a Mini Gulp Dust Hood (Rockler #42254), some foil HVAC tape, and ran a hose (dryer hose) to the underside of the table extension. My dust collector is beside the saw and I can easily and quickly hook it up if I am sawing a fair bit of material. Otherwise I just clean it out every couple of weeks.


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## MSD (Aug 16, 2010)

Hey etc,
Congratulations on the unisaw, sounds like a great deal! I picked up a used one a few years ago (left tilt and nowhere as good of deal as you got. I went with the delta belts after reading all the posts I could about different belts. While many had gone with others, I figured the delta matched set seemed like the best way to go.
For the dust cover I just used a piece of plywood and a 4" flange to hook up my dust collector. It seems to capture most of the dust quite well. I'm using the HF collector on mine and it does a good job. I did do a few of the mods you can easily find on the net. Replaced the 5" hose with metal duct pipe, added a Winn filter, and a Thien baffle. All very cheap upgrades (except the Winn filter) but well worth it. I also added the Vega pro 40 fence and an Osborne miter gauge. Now I can make precision saw dust for the HF collector in good fashion. You'll enjoy that saw!

Later, Mike


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

enurdat1…...i just picked up a late 70s, early 80 vintage delta unisaw for $40 in gas money and know that the old belts need to be replaced. have you applied the belts you got at grainger to your saw and if yes, how did they work? on the assumption they worked out well, what were the part numbers so i can get a set from my local grainger. thanks.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

I hope you get it figgered out, and let me know what to do. This is a 1989 model, and the dc is not good. I get a lot up on the table.

I bought it this way. I have not yet tried to improve the dc.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

Check your serial number. The first 2 numbers are the year of manufacture. The first letter, after the first 2 numbers, is the month. A is Jan, B is Feb, etc.


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## etc6849 (May 29, 2012)

Thanks guys. My chute's opening is very similar what hairy is showing. It's only 1.75" tall, but it's 15.25" long. I'm going to look at Lowe's tomorrow for a HVAC register. The top bar is spot welded, so there's not too many options to go taller without removing the existing chute and using making a new one that sits lower.

Turns out my saw was made in 1994! I cleaned it a bunch today and it's starting to look nice. I couldn't find many options locally for belts and grainger was 50 miles away, so I ended up just buying a delta set locally for $42!


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## EH2653 (Aug 19, 2020)

I also have a early model delta uni-saw and just recently starting cutting HDPE plastic panels for outdoor cabinetry. The problem I am having is that the saw plastic saw dust falls into the collection shoot but is heavier than wood saw dust and thus the vacuum system on my Jet dust collector will not suck them out of the shoot causing the shoot to clog up. Any suggestions? I have even remove the baffel in the saw and opened up the 15" x 2" opening and still keeps on clogging. I can push the shavings down to the mouth of the opening (4") and it will suck the shavings into the collector but that gets to be old real quick with the amount of cutting I am doing. Need some old school advise.
Thank you
EH2653


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## HeartFixr (Dec 30, 2020)

I also have a Delta 36-812 table saw that I purchased new in the late 1980's. Dust collection has always been an issue as the dust collects in the bottom of the base cabinet and is a pain to open the side door to remove. I tried a Shark Guard but the system was frustrating to use and I replaced it by going back to the Uniguard Deluxe system and modified it. I can honestly say that the dust removal has been pretty good for *********************************** engineering.

I'm too stupid to attach a photo but it is now integrated with my dust collection system.


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## CaptainKlutz (Apr 23, 2014)

Antique thread with common problem to solve, lol

Can buy a center end boot HVAC duct from most HVAC sheet metal shops with 2-1/4×14 opening with 4-6" duct connection. Make a double thick plywood plate that fills the space below motor, cut opening for boot, screw the metal to plywood edge of opening, seal with RTV, and screw the plywood plate to saw frame.

Like others was not happy with amount of residue dust in cabinet, so:
Added a 1/4" plywood plate, tilted about 30° across the entire bottom to slide the dust towards opening. I scored the panel and created an additional 3" wide ramp on front/back side to push dust towards center opening. The height inside cabinet and ramp shape was made to clear the motor as it tilted inside cabinet. Used aluminum HVAC tape to seal edges. Not pretty, which is reason I don't have pics to share. When I open the cabinet all I find is small pile of dust in corners near DC opening?
Make a template from cardboard first, and real panel is easy to cut and form. 
Mine was copy from a sheet metal version I found surfing WWW.

Next time I have to get inside for maintenance, will try to remember to take a picture.

Cheers!


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## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

While you have it open, consider getting some silicone for any joints. My unisaw leaks dust any place the metal panels are connected. There is also a gap between the table top and the cabinet across the back that is the biggest dust culprit. I wedged a piece of wood in there to minimize the opening. I also bought some magnetic vent covers from the local Menards to put across the tilt opening in front.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

+1

I used some HVAC "foil" tape to seal the gaps around the slalnted bottom panel on my Uni. If you don't, the dust will settle through the gaps and pack up under the saw. The tape is also good for sealing the other numerous unused holes before adding the DC.

For the adapter, I used a standard sheetmetal register vent from a big box store that fit the space. I did make a plywood adapter plate (Rectangle with a smaller rectangular hole cut in the center, sized to the register vent).

From this, I used a swiveling elbow to redirect to the saws rear (I'm using 6" hose to my DC.)


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