# Drill press table and much more!



## mafe

*Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig (my tour de table) Blog*

*Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig!*
This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…

Ok some of you allready have seen my drillpress table, but since I like to shoot photo, and some more has come, I have finally finished my material for the blog (Some will say finally!!! This guy has writing fever, the truth are that I have been down with a throad infection, so I could not be in my shop). To my buddys, thank you for your patience on all my posts recently (you can put me in the spam filter if it's too much)!









So here are all the bits and pieces I started out with.









First I routet two spurs in the plywood app. 30mm from edge to edge, in this way I had a spur to run my fence. With the festools rail, it was a dream, just set the two end stops, and the dept, and then ran two passes.









Here are the result.









I wanted a replaceable center, so I could change it when it was worn, and also so I could use tools that have to go a little under the surface. I choose a round, since it was quick and easy, and I would like to try something different from what I have seen.
So time to drill out the center, I drilled first the outer circle app. 4mm deep, and then the inner, all the way through.









Then it was time to clean up the little edge between the holes, so I had something to rest my changeable plate on. I used a routerplane. The hole you see in the front are made so I fittet it arround the colum of the drillpress.









Time to make some changeable plates. I used 4mm masonite, it's hard and cheap.
I drilled out a handfull so I have them ready. I drilled them a little oversized.









So now I wanted a tight fit, and had to make a jig to sand them circular press here to see how... (loved to!).









Sanded in size and ready for use, here you see the concept.









I countersink two bolts into the wood, and fastened the table to the drillpress.
And mounted my fence, that bacicly could also have been just a piece of hardwood.









On the side of the table I mounted a little piece of plywood for side clamping long or big items.









And now ready for action. You can see the two little stop blocks I made from hardwood with a bolt, and a wingnut for quick use.









Accesory time… 
First stop are a center drill block, all you need are to cut two 45 degree cuts in a block, and you are there.
What you do is you then lover the drill until the bottom of the v, and fasten the block, the lift the drill, and put in the round object - drill, and you will be dead center! (My block are long since it can be used as a fence also).









I then routet a rabbet in the block, and added a piece of aluminium shelf pin rail from the local hardware store. (Acually I brought this all the way from Paris to Copenhagen since I could not find it here, and also wanted to make a pin hole jig for my Festool).
You can see the knurled bolts under, this allows me to clamp it through the spurs under.









The way you use this pin hole jig, is that you make a little hole in the front of your shelf side.









- cut of nail that fits the track.









- put in the hole.









- then you adjust your fence to the right distance from the shelf side, and start drilling the first hole, when this is done, you simply move on pin down all the time.









Here we are!









Mark your jigs, so you know when you gets altzheimer.









Here we are with the bits and pieces for this part.

I used it now for a while, and I can say all works welll, and I can highly recomend to make one, since it makes it so much easier, and more delicate to use the drillpress for wood.

Next thing will be a bigger drillpress, since it's a little short, but it will work for now, and I can adapt this table to the new when it happens.

You can see, my original drillpress table post here.

Hope it can be to some inspiration,

*Best of thoughts,*
MaFe2010


----------



## PurpLev

mafe said:


> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig (my tour de table) Blog*
> 
> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> Ok some of you allready have seen my drillpress table, but since I like to shoot photo, and some more has come, I have finally finished my material for the blog (Some will say finally!!! This guy has writing fever, the truth are that I have been down with a throad infection, so I could not be in my shop). To my buddys, thank you for your patience on all my posts recently (you can put me in the spam filter if it's too much)!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all the bits and pieces I started out with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I routet two spurs in the plywood app. 30mm from edge to edge, in this way I had a spur to run my fence. With the festools rail, it was a dream, just set the two end stops, and the dept, and then ran two passes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a replaceable center, so I could change it when it was worn, and also so I could use tools that have to go a little under the surface. I choose a round, since it was quick and easy, and I would like to try something different from what I have seen.
> So time to drill out the center, I drilled first the outer circle app. 4mm deep, and then the inner, all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to clean up the little edge between the holes, so I had something to rest my changeable plate on. I used a routerplane. The hole you see in the front are made so I fittet it arround the colum of the drillpress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make some changeable plates. I used 4mm masonite, it's hard and cheap.
> I drilled out a handfull so I have them ready. I drilled them a little oversized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I wanted a tight fit, and had to make a jig to sand them circular press here to see how... (loved to!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded in size and ready for use, here you see the concept.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I countersink two bolts into the wood, and fastened the table to the drillpress.
> And mounted my fence, that bacicly could also have been just a piece of hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the side of the table I mounted a little piece of plywood for side clamping long or big items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready for action. You can see the two little stop blocks I made from hardwood with a bolt, and a wingnut for quick use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Accesory time…
> First stop are a center drill block, all you need are to cut two 45 degree cuts in a block, and you are there.
> What you do is you then lover the drill until the bottom of the v, and fasten the block, the lift the drill, and put in the round object - drill, and you will be dead center! (My block are long since it can be used as a fence also).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then routet a rabbet in the block, and added a piece of aluminium shelf pin rail from the local hardware store. (Acually I brought this all the way from Paris to Copenhagen since I could not find it here, and also wanted to make a pin hole jig for my Festool).
> You can see the knurled bolts under, this allows me to clamp it through the spurs under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you use this pin hole jig, is that you make a little hole in the front of your shelf side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - cut of nail that fits the track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - put in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - then you adjust your fence to the right distance from the shelf side, and start drilling the first hole, when this is done, you simply move on pin down all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark your jigs, so you know when you gets altzheimer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are with the bits and pieces for this part.
> 
> I used it now for a while, and I can say all works welll, and I can highly recomend to make one, since it makes it so much easier, and more delicate to use the drillpress for wood.
> 
> Next thing will be a bigger drillpress, since it's a little short, but it will work for now, and I can adapt this table to the new when it happens.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


the shelfpin jig is ingenious!

looking at your replaceable inserts which is similar to mine, it brings a good point to view. from my experience the masonite - although cheap, and easy to make inserts with, is a bit too flexible to be used as a backer board, and what I noticed is that the insert would bend down a bit before the drill cuts into it, rendering it useless as a backer board as it does not prevent the tear out it is supposed to. perhaps you are not experiencing this - but I do, which brings me to my point - maybe my inserts are too big allowing them to flex down, or since they are rectangular, the physical forces pushing on them down are not backed up by the support a round insert would have… (just thinking out loud). So, I think I need to redo my DP table at some point. I do have several concepts that I wanted to incorporate as built ins that would eliminate some of my accessories for it.

Thanks for reminding me!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig (my tour de table) Blog*
> 
> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> Ok some of you allready have seen my drillpress table, but since I like to shoot photo, and some more has come, I have finally finished my material for the blog (Some will say finally!!! This guy has writing fever, the truth are that I have been down with a throad infection, so I could not be in my shop). To my buddys, thank you for your patience on all my posts recently (you can put me in the spam filter if it's too much)!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all the bits and pieces I started out with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I routet two spurs in the plywood app. 30mm from edge to edge, in this way I had a spur to run my fence. With the festools rail, it was a dream, just set the two end stops, and the dept, and then ran two passes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a replaceable center, so I could change it when it was worn, and also so I could use tools that have to go a little under the surface. I choose a round, since it was quick and easy, and I would like to try something different from what I have seen.
> So time to drill out the center, I drilled first the outer circle app. 4mm deep, and then the inner, all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to clean up the little edge between the holes, so I had something to rest my changeable plate on. I used a routerplane. The hole you see in the front are made so I fittet it arround the colum of the drillpress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make some changeable plates. I used 4mm masonite, it's hard and cheap.
> I drilled out a handfull so I have them ready. I drilled them a little oversized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I wanted a tight fit, and had to make a jig to sand them circular press here to see how... (loved to!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded in size and ready for use, here you see the concept.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I countersink two bolts into the wood, and fastened the table to the drillpress.
> And mounted my fence, that bacicly could also have been just a piece of hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the side of the table I mounted a little piece of plywood for side clamping long or big items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready for action. You can see the two little stop blocks I made from hardwood with a bolt, and a wingnut for quick use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Accesory time…
> First stop are a center drill block, all you need are to cut two 45 degree cuts in a block, and you are there.
> What you do is you then lover the drill until the bottom of the v, and fasten the block, the lift the drill, and put in the round object - drill, and you will be dead center! (My block are long since it can be used as a fence also).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then routet a rabbet in the block, and added a piece of aluminium shelf pin rail from the local hardware store. (Acually I brought this all the way from Paris to Copenhagen since I could not find it here, and also wanted to make a pin hole jig for my Festool).
> You can see the knurled bolts under, this allows me to clamp it through the spurs under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you use this pin hole jig, is that you make a little hole in the front of your shelf side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - cut of nail that fits the track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - put in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - then you adjust your fence to the right distance from the shelf side, and start drilling the first hole, when this is done, you simply move on pin down all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark your jigs, so you know when you gets altzheimer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are with the bits and pieces for this part.
> 
> I used it now for a while, and I can say all works welll, and I can highly recomend to make one, since it makes it so much easier, and more delicate to use the drillpress for wood.
> 
> Next thing will be a bigger drillpress, since it's a little short, but it will work for now, and I can adapt this table to the new when it happens.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Hi PurpLev,
I have been trying to push it really hard, but it seems to be solid, perhaps due to the limited size.
Usually I put always a piece of plywood under when I drill, so I have not really testet.
My concern are that that it will run arround when it gets stuck… But then I will give it a little nail.
And today you could see that a old computer rack can give you the T-tracks! Cool.
Best thoughts my friend,
Mads


----------



## patron

mafe said:


> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig (my tour de table) Blog*
> 
> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> Ok some of you allready have seen my drillpress table, but since I like to shoot photo, and some more has come, I have finally finished my material for the blog (Some will say finally!!! This guy has writing fever, the truth are that I have been down with a throad infection, so I could not be in my shop). To my buddys, thank you for your patience on all my posts recently (you can put me in the spam filter if it's too much)!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all the bits and pieces I started out with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I routet two spurs in the plywood app. 30mm from edge to edge, in this way I had a spur to run my fence. With the festools rail, it was a dream, just set the two end stops, and the dept, and then ran two passes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a replaceable center, so I could change it when it was worn, and also so I could use tools that have to go a little under the surface. I choose a round, since it was quick and easy, and I would like to try something different from what I have seen.
> So time to drill out the center, I drilled first the outer circle app. 4mm deep, and then the inner, all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to clean up the little edge between the holes, so I had something to rest my changeable plate on. I used a routerplane. The hole you see in the front are made so I fittet it arround the colum of the drillpress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make some changeable plates. I used 4mm masonite, it's hard and cheap.
> I drilled out a handfull so I have them ready. I drilled them a little oversized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I wanted a tight fit, and had to make a jig to sand them circular press here to see how... (loved to!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded in size and ready for use, here you see the concept.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I countersink two bolts into the wood, and fastened the table to the drillpress.
> And mounted my fence, that bacicly could also have been just a piece of hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the side of the table I mounted a little piece of plywood for side clamping long or big items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready for action. You can see the two little stop blocks I made from hardwood with a bolt, and a wingnut for quick use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Accesory time…
> First stop are a center drill block, all you need are to cut two 45 degree cuts in a block, and you are there.
> What you do is you then lover the drill until the bottom of the v, and fasten the block, the lift the drill, and put in the round object - drill, and you will be dead center! (My block are long since it can be used as a fence also).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then routet a rabbet in the block, and added a piece of aluminium shelf pin rail from the local hardware store. (Acually I brought this all the way from Paris to Copenhagen since I could not find it here, and also wanted to make a pin hole jig for my Festool).
> You can see the knurled bolts under, this allows me to clamp it through the spurs under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you use this pin hole jig, is that you make a little hole in the front of your shelf side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - cut of nail that fits the track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - put in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - then you adjust your fence to the right distance from the shelf side, and start drilling the first hole, when this is done, you simply move on pin down all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark your jigs, so you know when you gets altzheimer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are with the bits and pieces for this part.
> 
> I used it now for a while, and I can say all works welll, and I can highly recomend to make one, since it makes it so much easier, and more delicate to use the drillpress for wood.
> 
> Next thing will be a bigger drillpress, since it's a little short, but it will work for now, and I can adapt this table to the new when it happens.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


busy boy 
looks good mads

i am of to work the weekend
see you all later

have a great weekend !


----------



## Schwieb

mafe said:


> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig (my tour de table) Blog*
> 
> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> Ok some of you allready have seen my drillpress table, but since I like to shoot photo, and some more has come, I have finally finished my material for the blog (Some will say finally!!! This guy has writing fever, the truth are that I have been down with a throad infection, so I could not be in my shop). To my buddys, thank you for your patience on all my posts recently (you can put me in the spam filter if it's too much)!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all the bits and pieces I started out with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I routet two spurs in the plywood app. 30mm from edge to edge, in this way I had a spur to run my fence. With the festools rail, it was a dream, just set the two end stops, and the dept, and then ran two passes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a replaceable center, so I could change it when it was worn, and also so I could use tools that have to go a little under the surface. I choose a round, since it was quick and easy, and I would like to try something different from what I have seen.
> So time to drill out the center, I drilled first the outer circle app. 4mm deep, and then the inner, all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to clean up the little edge between the holes, so I had something to rest my changeable plate on. I used a routerplane. The hole you see in the front are made so I fittet it arround the colum of the drillpress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make some changeable plates. I used 4mm masonite, it's hard and cheap.
> I drilled out a handfull so I have them ready. I drilled them a little oversized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I wanted a tight fit, and had to make a jig to sand them circular press here to see how... (loved to!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded in size and ready for use, here you see the concept.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I countersink two bolts into the wood, and fastened the table to the drillpress.
> And mounted my fence, that bacicly could also have been just a piece of hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the side of the table I mounted a little piece of plywood for side clamping long or big items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready for action. You can see the two little stop blocks I made from hardwood with a bolt, and a wingnut for quick use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Accesory time…
> First stop are a center drill block, all you need are to cut two 45 degree cuts in a block, and you are there.
> What you do is you then lover the drill until the bottom of the v, and fasten the block, the lift the drill, and put in the round object - drill, and you will be dead center! (My block are long since it can be used as a fence also).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then routet a rabbet in the block, and added a piece of aluminium shelf pin rail from the local hardware store. (Acually I brought this all the way from Paris to Copenhagen since I could not find it here, and also wanted to make a pin hole jig for my Festool).
> You can see the knurled bolts under, this allows me to clamp it through the spurs under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you use this pin hole jig, is that you make a little hole in the front of your shelf side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - cut of nail that fits the track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - put in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - then you adjust your fence to the right distance from the shelf side, and start drilling the first hole, when this is done, you simply move on pin down all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark your jigs, so you know when you gets altzheimer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are with the bits and pieces for this part.
> 
> I used it now for a while, and I can say all works welll, and I can highly recomend to make one, since it makes it so much easier, and more delicate to use the drillpress for wood.
> 
> Next thing will be a bigger drillpress, since it's a little short, but it will work for now, and I can adapt this table to the new when it happens.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Using the shelf support track for a spacer guide is a real clever idea. Why didn't I think of that? Good work Mads!!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig (my tour de table) Blog*
> 
> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> Ok some of you allready have seen my drillpress table, but since I like to shoot photo, and some more has come, I have finally finished my material for the blog (Some will say finally!!! This guy has writing fever, the truth are that I have been down with a throad infection, so I could not be in my shop). To my buddys, thank you for your patience on all my posts recently (you can put me in the spam filter if it's too much)!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all the bits and pieces I started out with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I routet two spurs in the plywood app. 30mm from edge to edge, in this way I had a spur to run my fence. With the festools rail, it was a dream, just set the two end stops, and the dept, and then ran two passes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a replaceable center, so I could change it when it was worn, and also so I could use tools that have to go a little under the surface. I choose a round, since it was quick and easy, and I would like to try something different from what I have seen.
> So time to drill out the center, I drilled first the outer circle app. 4mm deep, and then the inner, all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to clean up the little edge between the holes, so I had something to rest my changeable plate on. I used a routerplane. The hole you see in the front are made so I fittet it arround the colum of the drillpress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make some changeable plates. I used 4mm masonite, it's hard and cheap.
> I drilled out a handfull so I have them ready. I drilled them a little oversized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I wanted a tight fit, and had to make a jig to sand them circular press here to see how... (loved to!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded in size and ready for use, here you see the concept.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I countersink two bolts into the wood, and fastened the table to the drillpress.
> And mounted my fence, that bacicly could also have been just a piece of hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the side of the table I mounted a little piece of plywood for side clamping long or big items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready for action. You can see the two little stop blocks I made from hardwood with a bolt, and a wingnut for quick use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Accesory time…
> First stop are a center drill block, all you need are to cut two 45 degree cuts in a block, and you are there.
> What you do is you then lover the drill until the bottom of the v, and fasten the block, the lift the drill, and put in the round object - drill, and you will be dead center! (My block are long since it can be used as a fence also).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then routet a rabbet in the block, and added a piece of aluminium shelf pin rail from the local hardware store. (Acually I brought this all the way from Paris to Copenhagen since I could not find it here, and also wanted to make a pin hole jig for my Festool).
> You can see the knurled bolts under, this allows me to clamp it through the spurs under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you use this pin hole jig, is that you make a little hole in the front of your shelf side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - cut of nail that fits the track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - put in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - then you adjust your fence to the right distance from the shelf side, and start drilling the first hole, when this is done, you simply move on pin down all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark your jigs, so you know when you gets altzheimer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are with the bits and pieces for this part.
> 
> I used it now for a while, and I can say all works welll, and I can highly recomend to make one, since it makes it so much easier, and more delicate to use the drillpress for wood.
> 
> Next thing will be a bigger drillpress, since it's a little short, but it will work for now, and I can adapt this table to the new when it happens.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Yes it's really clever and easy, not my own idea, saw it on the internet from a woodworking magazine.
But I'm vorking on a version for my Festool router rail, and then it will be really easy.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## moshel

mafe said:


> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig (my tour de table) Blog*
> 
> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> Ok some of you allready have seen my drillpress table, but since I like to shoot photo, and some more has come, I have finally finished my material for the blog (Some will say finally!!! This guy has writing fever, the truth are that I have been down with a throad infection, so I could not be in my shop). To my buddys, thank you for your patience on all my posts recently (you can put me in the spam filter if it's too much)!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all the bits and pieces I started out with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I routet two spurs in the plywood app. 30mm from edge to edge, in this way I had a spur to run my fence. With the festools rail, it was a dream, just set the two end stops, and the dept, and then ran two passes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a replaceable center, so I could change it when it was worn, and also so I could use tools that have to go a little under the surface. I choose a round, since it was quick and easy, and I would like to try something different from what I have seen.
> So time to drill out the center, I drilled first the outer circle app. 4mm deep, and then the inner, all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to clean up the little edge between the holes, so I had something to rest my changeable plate on. I used a routerplane. The hole you see in the front are made so I fittet it arround the colum of the drillpress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make some changeable plates. I used 4mm masonite, it's hard and cheap.
> I drilled out a handfull so I have them ready. I drilled them a little oversized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I wanted a tight fit, and had to make a jig to sand them circular press here to see how... (loved to!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded in size and ready for use, here you see the concept.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I countersink two bolts into the wood, and fastened the table to the drillpress.
> And mounted my fence, that bacicly could also have been just a piece of hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the side of the table I mounted a little piece of plywood for side clamping long or big items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready for action. You can see the two little stop blocks I made from hardwood with a bolt, and a wingnut for quick use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Accesory time…
> First stop are a center drill block, all you need are to cut two 45 degree cuts in a block, and you are there.
> What you do is you then lover the drill until the bottom of the v, and fasten the block, the lift the drill, and put in the round object - drill, and you will be dead center! (My block are long since it can be used as a fence also).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then routet a rabbet in the block, and added a piece of aluminium shelf pin rail from the local hardware store. (Acually I brought this all the way from Paris to Copenhagen since I could not find it here, and also wanted to make a pin hole jig for my Festool).
> You can see the knurled bolts under, this allows me to clamp it through the spurs under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you use this pin hole jig, is that you make a little hole in the front of your shelf side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - cut of nail that fits the track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - put in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - then you adjust your fence to the right distance from the shelf side, and start drilling the first hole, when this is done, you simply move on pin down all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark your jigs, so you know when you gets altzheimer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are with the bits and pieces for this part.
> 
> I used it now for a while, and I can say all works welll, and I can highly recomend to make one, since it makes it so much easier, and more delicate to use the drillpress for wood.
> 
> Next thing will be a bigger drillpress, since it's a little short, but it will work for now, and I can adapt this table to the new when it happens.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


for a slightly better insert, drill the hole off center. this has a nice advantage that you can just rotate it to get zero clearance backer again!!! very useful when drilling two sizes of holes.


----------



## lanwater

mafe said:


> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig (my tour de table) Blog*
> 
> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> Ok some of you allready have seen my drillpress table, but since I like to shoot photo, and some more has come, I have finally finished my material for the blog (Some will say finally!!! This guy has writing fever, the truth are that I have been down with a throad infection, so I could not be in my shop). To my buddys, thank you for your patience on all my posts recently (you can put me in the spam filter if it's too much)!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all the bits and pieces I started out with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I routet two spurs in the plywood app. 30mm from edge to edge, in this way I had a spur to run my fence. With the festools rail, it was a dream, just set the two end stops, and the dept, and then ran two passes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a replaceable center, so I could change it when it was worn, and also so I could use tools that have to go a little under the surface. I choose a round, since it was quick and easy, and I would like to try something different from what I have seen.
> So time to drill out the center, I drilled first the outer circle app. 4mm deep, and then the inner, all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to clean up the little edge between the holes, so I had something to rest my changeable plate on. I used a routerplane. The hole you see in the front are made so I fittet it arround the colum of the drillpress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make some changeable plates. I used 4mm masonite, it's hard and cheap.
> I drilled out a handfull so I have them ready. I drilled them a little oversized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I wanted a tight fit, and had to make a jig to sand them circular press here to see how... (loved to!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded in size and ready for use, here you see the concept.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I countersink two bolts into the wood, and fastened the table to the drillpress.
> And mounted my fence, that bacicly could also have been just a piece of hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the side of the table I mounted a little piece of plywood for side clamping long or big items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready for action. You can see the two little stop blocks I made from hardwood with a bolt, and a wingnut for quick use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Accesory time…
> First stop are a center drill block, all you need are to cut two 45 degree cuts in a block, and you are there.
> What you do is you then lover the drill until the bottom of the v, and fasten the block, the lift the drill, and put in the round object - drill, and you will be dead center! (My block are long since it can be used as a fence also).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then routet a rabbet in the block, and added a piece of aluminium shelf pin rail from the local hardware store. (Acually I brought this all the way from Paris to Copenhagen since I could not find it here, and also wanted to make a pin hole jig for my Festool).
> You can see the knurled bolts under, this allows me to clamp it through the spurs under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you use this pin hole jig, is that you make a little hole in the front of your shelf side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - cut of nail that fits the track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - put in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - then you adjust your fence to the right distance from the shelf side, and start drilling the first hole, when this is done, you simply move on pin down all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark your jigs, so you know when you gets altzheimer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are with the bits and pieces for this part.
> 
> I used it now for a while, and I can say all works welll, and I can highly recomend to make one, since it makes it so much easier, and more delicate to use the drillpress for wood.
> 
> Next thing will be a bigger drillpress, since it's a little short, but it will work for now, and I can adapt this table to the new when it happens.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Nice work Mafe,

your drill press table is nice. I like the shelf pin part the most .

Is that a Chinese green tea can in the back (the red one)?

What resolution did you take those picture at (camera setting)? They are well focused and clean.

Thanks for posting.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig (my tour de table) Blog*
> 
> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> Ok some of you allready have seen my drillpress table, but since I like to shoot photo, and some more has come, I have finally finished my material for the blog (Some will say finally!!! This guy has writing fever, the truth are that I have been down with a throad infection, so I could not be in my shop). To my buddys, thank you for your patience on all my posts recently (you can put me in the spam filter if it's too much)!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all the bits and pieces I started out with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I routet two spurs in the plywood app. 30mm from edge to edge, in this way I had a spur to run my fence. With the festools rail, it was a dream, just set the two end stops, and the dept, and then ran two passes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a replaceable center, so I could change it when it was worn, and also so I could use tools that have to go a little under the surface. I choose a round, since it was quick and easy, and I would like to try something different from what I have seen.
> So time to drill out the center, I drilled first the outer circle app. 4mm deep, and then the inner, all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to clean up the little edge between the holes, so I had something to rest my changeable plate on. I used a routerplane. The hole you see in the front are made so I fittet it arround the colum of the drillpress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make some changeable plates. I used 4mm masonite, it's hard and cheap.
> I drilled out a handfull so I have them ready. I drilled them a little oversized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I wanted a tight fit, and had to make a jig to sand them circular press here to see how... (loved to!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded in size and ready for use, here you see the concept.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I countersink two bolts into the wood, and fastened the table to the drillpress.
> And mounted my fence, that bacicly could also have been just a piece of hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the side of the table I mounted a little piece of plywood for side clamping long or big items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready for action. You can see the two little stop blocks I made from hardwood with a bolt, and a wingnut for quick use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Accesory time…
> First stop are a center drill block, all you need are to cut two 45 degree cuts in a block, and you are there.
> What you do is you then lover the drill until the bottom of the v, and fasten the block, the lift the drill, and put in the round object - drill, and you will be dead center! (My block are long since it can be used as a fence also).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then routet a rabbet in the block, and added a piece of aluminium shelf pin rail from the local hardware store. (Acually I brought this all the way from Paris to Copenhagen since I could not find it here, and also wanted to make a pin hole jig for my Festool).
> You can see the knurled bolts under, this allows me to clamp it through the spurs under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you use this pin hole jig, is that you make a little hole in the front of your shelf side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - cut of nail that fits the track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - put in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - then you adjust your fence to the right distance from the shelf side, and start drilling the first hole, when this is done, you simply move on pin down all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark your jigs, so you know when you gets altzheimer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are with the bits and pieces for this part.
> 
> I used it now for a while, and I can say all works welll, and I can highly recomend to make one, since it makes it so much easier, and more delicate to use the drillpress for wood.
> 
> Next thing will be a bigger drillpress, since it's a little short, but it will work for now, and I can adapt this table to the new when it happens.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Hi Ian,
I usually set the camera in P mode, then use my 580ex speedlite flash, a iso 400-800 and the wb on auto, or tungsten light, otherwise I do nothing but point the flash away from the object normally into the ceeling since it's low in my workshop. My camera are a Canon eos 400d, but the secret to sharpness are the lens a 28-135 UMS with image stabilizer since I got that lens photographing has become a pleasure of a new dimension - the images becomes so wonderful sharp.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Antoine35

mafe said:


> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig (my tour de table) Blog*
> 
> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> Ok some of you allready have seen my drillpress table, but since I like to shoot photo, and some more has come, I have finally finished my material for the blog (Some will say finally!!! This guy has writing fever, the truth are that I have been down with a throad infection, so I could not be in my shop). To my buddys, thank you for your patience on all my posts recently (you can put me in the spam filter if it's too much)!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all the bits and pieces I started out with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I routet two spurs in the plywood app. 30mm from edge to edge, in this way I had a spur to run my fence. With the festools rail, it was a dream, just set the two end stops, and the dept, and then ran two passes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a replaceable center, so I could change it when it was worn, and also so I could use tools that have to go a little under the surface. I choose a round, since it was quick and easy, and I would like to try something different from what I have seen.
> So time to drill out the center, I drilled first the outer circle app. 4mm deep, and then the inner, all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to clean up the little edge between the holes, so I had something to rest my changeable plate on. I used a routerplane. The hole you see in the front are made so I fittet it arround the colum of the drillpress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make some changeable plates. I used 4mm masonite, it's hard and cheap.
> I drilled out a handfull so I have them ready. I drilled them a little oversized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I wanted a tight fit, and had to make a jig to sand them circular press here to see how... (loved to!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded in size and ready for use, here you see the concept.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I countersink two bolts into the wood, and fastened the table to the drillpress.
> And mounted my fence, that bacicly could also have been just a piece of hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the side of the table I mounted a little piece of plywood for side clamping long or big items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready for action. You can see the two little stop blocks I made from hardwood with a bolt, and a wingnut for quick use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Accesory time…
> First stop are a center drill block, all you need are to cut two 45 degree cuts in a block, and you are there.
> What you do is you then lover the drill until the bottom of the v, and fasten the block, the lift the drill, and put in the round object - drill, and you will be dead center! (My block are long since it can be used as a fence also).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then routet a rabbet in the block, and added a piece of aluminium shelf pin rail from the local hardware store. (Acually I brought this all the way from Paris to Copenhagen since I could not find it here, and also wanted to make a pin hole jig for my Festool).
> You can see the knurled bolts under, this allows me to clamp it through the spurs under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you use this pin hole jig, is that you make a little hole in the front of your shelf side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - cut of nail that fits the track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - put in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - then you adjust your fence to the right distance from the shelf side, and start drilling the first hole, when this is done, you simply move on pin down all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark your jigs, so you know when you gets altzheimer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are with the bits and pieces for this part.
> 
> I used it now for a while, and I can say all works welll, and I can highly recomend to make one, since it makes it so much easier, and more delicate to use the drillpress for wood.
> 
> Next thing will be a bigger drillpress, since it's a little short, but it will work for now, and I can adapt this table to the new when it happens.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Love the placard " Bureau du chef " !

Great (old) job, as always. I think do the same soon.
Mafe,Lumberjocks would not be Lumberjocks without you !


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig (my tour de table) Blog*
> 
> *Making the table, fence, and shelf pin jig!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> Ok some of you allready have seen my drillpress table, but since I like to shoot photo, and some more has come, I have finally finished my material for the blog (Some will say finally!!! This guy has writing fever, the truth are that I have been down with a throad infection, so I could not be in my shop). To my buddys, thank you for your patience on all my posts recently (you can put me in the spam filter if it's too much)!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all the bits and pieces I started out with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I routet two spurs in the plywood app. 30mm from edge to edge, in this way I had a spur to run my fence. With the festools rail, it was a dream, just set the two end stops, and the dept, and then ran two passes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a replaceable center, so I could change it when it was worn, and also so I could use tools that have to go a little under the surface. I choose a round, since it was quick and easy, and I would like to try something different from what I have seen.
> So time to drill out the center, I drilled first the outer circle app. 4mm deep, and then the inner, all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to clean up the little edge between the holes, so I had something to rest my changeable plate on. I used a routerplane. The hole you see in the front are made so I fittet it arround the colum of the drillpress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to make some changeable plates. I used 4mm masonite, it's hard and cheap.
> I drilled out a handfull so I have them ready. I drilled them a little oversized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I wanted a tight fit, and had to make a jig to sand them circular press here to see how... (loved to!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded in size and ready for use, here you see the concept.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I countersink two bolts into the wood, and fastened the table to the drillpress.
> And mounted my fence, that bacicly could also have been just a piece of hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the side of the table I mounted a little piece of plywood for side clamping long or big items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready for action. You can see the two little stop blocks I made from hardwood with a bolt, and a wingnut for quick use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Accesory time…
> First stop are a center drill block, all you need are to cut two 45 degree cuts in a block, and you are there.
> What you do is you then lover the drill until the bottom of the v, and fasten the block, the lift the drill, and put in the round object - drill, and you will be dead center! (My block are long since it can be used as a fence also).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then routet a rabbet in the block, and added a piece of aluminium shelf pin rail from the local hardware store. (Acually I brought this all the way from Paris to Copenhagen since I could not find it here, and also wanted to make a pin hole jig for my Festool).
> You can see the knurled bolts under, this allows me to clamp it through the spurs under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way you use this pin hole jig, is that you make a little hole in the front of your shelf side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - cut of nail that fits the track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - put in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - then you adjust your fence to the right distance from the shelf side, and start drilling the first hole, when this is done, you simply move on pin down all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark your jigs, so you know when you gets altzheimer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are with the bits and pieces for this part.
> 
> I used it now for a while, and I can say all works welll, and I can highly recomend to make one, since it makes it so much easier, and more delicate to use the drillpress for wood.
> 
> Next thing will be a bigger drillpress, since it's a little short, but it will work for now, and I can adapt this table to the new when it happens.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Hi Antoine, thank you, I smile here.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Making the vacuum hose holder (diy) blog*

*Making the vacuumhose holder!*
This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…









So this is the result! Just to make it easier to understand where we are going.









First cut some scraps up in good sizes, and thickness… At least a little wider than your vacuumhose, you need two pieces.









Bore a hole that match the size of the hose in one, and a hole that match your drillpress colom in the other.









This is a hole!!!









This is some wonderful old tools to make holes… (got them on e-bay for 18$ with shipping).
Sorry this has nothing to do with the blog.









Make a cut in your plywood pieces, that goes from the side and all the way into the hole.









I found some rubber hose, to put on the edge, to make it hold better, but it was acually not needed…









And now a test set up!









Some rounding on the sander, and it looks fine.
The bit's and pieces for next stop are, a threaded rod, and some selfholding nuts, and some wingnuts.









Now drill a hole through the block for the drillpress table colom, that fits the threaded rod, here it will be fine to use your drillpress table…
(that is if you made first part first ofcourse).









Drill a matching hole in the vacuum hose holder.









Cut of a piece of rod, that can go through both the holder, the two bolts and the hose mount (not like me on the picture, to forget first the hose mount and end up with a wonderful useless short thing!!!).









Cut the rod (sounds like a rap song).









Mount the selftightening bolt in one end.









Run it through and ad a washer.









And Viola! Here we go again…









Some final adjustments.









Time for treatment, I give it a little beeswax.









Mount it on the drillpress.
(I took of the motor).









And the wauuuu effect are there.









And now holes without dust.

I used it now a few times, and it works perfectly well - but I'm quite lazy, since I don't have a fixed suction system in my shop, so I have to move the suction from machine to machine.
(this might be one of the next improvements).

You can see, my how to make the table blog drillpress table and much more! here.

Hope it can be to some inspiration,

*Best of thoughts,*
MaFe2010


----------



## docholladay

mafe said:


> *Making the vacuum hose holder (diy) blog*
> 
> *Making the vacuumhose holder!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is the result! Just to make it easier to understand where we are going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First cut some scraps up in good sizes, and thickness… At least a little wider than your vacuumhose, you need two pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole that match the size of the hose in one, and a hole that match your drillpress colom in the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hole!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is some wonderful old tools to make holes… (got them on e-bay for 18$ with shipping).
> Sorry this has nothing to do with the blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make a cut in your plywood pieces, that goes from the side and all the way into the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some rubber hose, to put on the edge, to make it hold better, but it was acually not needed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now a test set up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some rounding on the sander, and it looks fine.
> The bit's and pieces for next stop are, a threaded rod, and some selfholding nuts, and some wingnuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole through the block for the drillpress table colom, that fits the threaded rod, here it will be fine to use your drillpress table…
> (that is if you made first part first ofcourse).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill a matching hole in the vacuum hose holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of a piece of rod, that can go through both the holder, the two bolts and the hose mount (not like me on the picture, to forget first the hose mount and end up with a wonderful useless short thing!!!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the rod (sounds like a rap song).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the selftightening bolt in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run it through and ad a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Viola! Here we go again…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some final adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for treatment, I give it a little beeswax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it on the drillpress.
> (I took of the motor).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the wauuuu effect are there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now holes without dust.
> 
> I used it now a few times, and it works perfectly well - but I'm quite lazy, since I don't have a fixed suction system in my shop, so I have to move the suction from machine to machine.
> (this might be one of the next improvements).
> 
> You can see, my how to make the table blog drillpress table and much more! here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Nice design. One thing that would make it easier to build, when you make the clamp for the post of the drill press (to avoid having to completely remove the top of your drill press) drill for a bolt hole on both sides of the hole for the post, make 2 bolts, then simply cut the clamp in half. Install your bolts and as they say,"Bob's your uncle."


----------



## BritBoxmaker

mafe said:


> *Making the vacuum hose holder (diy) blog*
> 
> *Making the vacuumhose holder!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is the result! Just to make it easier to understand where we are going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First cut some scraps up in good sizes, and thickness… At least a little wider than your vacuumhose, you need two pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole that match the size of the hose in one, and a hole that match your drillpress colom in the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hole!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is some wonderful old tools to make holes… (got them on e-bay for 18$ with shipping).
> Sorry this has nothing to do with the blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make a cut in your plywood pieces, that goes from the side and all the way into the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some rubber hose, to put on the edge, to make it hold better, but it was acually not needed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now a test set up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some rounding on the sander, and it looks fine.
> The bit's and pieces for next stop are, a threaded rod, and some selfholding nuts, and some wingnuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole through the block for the drillpress table colom, that fits the threaded rod, here it will be fine to use your drillpress table…
> (that is if you made first part first ofcourse).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill a matching hole in the vacuum hose holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of a piece of rod, that can go through both the holder, the two bolts and the hose mount (not like me on the picture, to forget first the hose mount and end up with a wonderful useless short thing!!!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the rod (sounds like a rap song).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the selftightening bolt in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run it through and ad a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Viola! Here we go again…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some final adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for treatment, I give it a little beeswax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it on the drillpress.
> (I took of the motor).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the wauuuu effect are there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now holes without dust.
> 
> I used it now a few times, and it works perfectly well - but I'm quite lazy, since I don't have a fixed suction system in my shop, so I have to move the suction from machine to machine.
> (this might be one of the next improvements).
> 
> You can see, my how to make the table blog drillpress table and much more! here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Just brilliant!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the vacuum hose holder (diy) blog*
> 
> *Making the vacuumhose holder!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is the result! Just to make it easier to understand where we are going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First cut some scraps up in good sizes, and thickness… At least a little wider than your vacuumhose, you need two pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole that match the size of the hose in one, and a hole that match your drillpress colom in the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hole!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is some wonderful old tools to make holes… (got them on e-bay for 18$ with shipping).
> Sorry this has nothing to do with the blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make a cut in your plywood pieces, that goes from the side and all the way into the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some rubber hose, to put on the edge, to make it hold better, but it was acually not needed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now a test set up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some rounding on the sander, and it looks fine.
> The bit's and pieces for next stop are, a threaded rod, and some selfholding nuts, and some wingnuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole through the block for the drillpress table colom, that fits the threaded rod, here it will be fine to use your drillpress table…
> (that is if you made first part first ofcourse).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill a matching hole in the vacuum hose holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of a piece of rod, that can go through both the holder, the two bolts and the hose mount (not like me on the picture, to forget first the hose mount and end up with a wonderful useless short thing!!!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the rod (sounds like a rap song).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the selftightening bolt in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run it through and ad a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Viola! Here we go again…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some final adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for treatment, I give it a little beeswax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it on the drillpress.
> (I took of the motor).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the wauuuu effect are there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now holes without dust.
> 
> I used it now a few times, and it works perfectly well - but I'm quite lazy, since I don't have a fixed suction system in my shop, so I have to move the suction from machine to machine.
> (this might be one of the next improvements).
> 
> You can see, my how to make the table blog drillpress table and much more! here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Hi guys,
'Bob is your uncle'! I laugh. But imagine all the threads I have to cut in pieces then…
Simple.
Best thoughts and thank you,
Mads


----------



## woodspark

mafe said:


> *Making the vacuum hose holder (diy) blog*
> 
> *Making the vacuumhose holder!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is the result! Just to make it easier to understand where we are going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First cut some scraps up in good sizes, and thickness… At least a little wider than your vacuumhose, you need two pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole that match the size of the hose in one, and a hole that match your drillpress colom in the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hole!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is some wonderful old tools to make holes… (got them on e-bay for 18$ with shipping).
> Sorry this has nothing to do with the blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make a cut in your plywood pieces, that goes from the side and all the way into the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some rubber hose, to put on the edge, to make it hold better, but it was acually not needed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now a test set up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some rounding on the sander, and it looks fine.
> The bit's and pieces for next stop are, a threaded rod, and some selfholding nuts, and some wingnuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole through the block for the drillpress table colom, that fits the threaded rod, here it will be fine to use your drillpress table…
> (that is if you made first part first ofcourse).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill a matching hole in the vacuum hose holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of a piece of rod, that can go through both the holder, the two bolts and the hose mount (not like me on the picture, to forget first the hose mount and end up with a wonderful useless short thing!!!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the rod (sounds like a rap song).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the selftightening bolt in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run it through and ad a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Viola! Here we go again…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some final adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for treatment, I give it a little beeswax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it on the drillpress.
> (I took of the motor).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the wauuuu effect are there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now holes without dust.
> 
> I used it now a few times, and it works perfectly well - but I'm quite lazy, since I don't have a fixed suction system in my shop, so I have to move the suction from machine to machine.
> (this might be one of the next improvements).
> 
> You can see, my how to make the table blog drillpress table and much more! here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Do you ever sleep Mads? Seems to me you are busy improving that shop of yours ALL the time!! ;^)


----------



## TJ65

mafe said:


> *Making the vacuum hose holder (diy) blog*
> 
> *Making the vacuumhose holder!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is the result! Just to make it easier to understand where we are going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First cut some scraps up in good sizes, and thickness… At least a little wider than your vacuumhose, you need two pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole that match the size of the hose in one, and a hole that match your drillpress colom in the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hole!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is some wonderful old tools to make holes… (got them on e-bay for 18$ with shipping).
> Sorry this has nothing to do with the blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make a cut in your plywood pieces, that goes from the side and all the way into the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some rubber hose, to put on the edge, to make it hold better, but it was acually not needed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now a test set up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some rounding on the sander, and it looks fine.
> The bit's and pieces for next stop are, a threaded rod, and some selfholding nuts, and some wingnuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole through the block for the drillpress table colom, that fits the threaded rod, here it will be fine to use your drillpress table…
> (that is if you made first part first ofcourse).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill a matching hole in the vacuum hose holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of a piece of rod, that can go through both the holder, the two bolts and the hose mount (not like me on the picture, to forget first the hose mount and end up with a wonderful useless short thing!!!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the rod (sounds like a rap song).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the selftightening bolt in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run it through and ad a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Viola! Here we go again…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some final adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for treatment, I give it a little beeswax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it on the drillpress.
> (I took of the motor).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the wauuuu effect are there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now holes without dust.
> 
> I used it now a few times, and it works perfectly well - but I'm quite lazy, since I don't have a fixed suction system in my shop, so I have to move the suction from machine to machine.
> (this might be one of the next improvements).
> 
> You can see, my how to make the table blog drillpress table and much more! here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Hey that is a great idea, It was only today that i put off using the drill press to sand something because of all the dust it would have made.

I might just have to do this. 
thanx


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the vacuum hose holder (diy) blog*
> 
> *Making the vacuumhose holder!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is the result! Just to make it easier to understand where we are going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First cut some scraps up in good sizes, and thickness… At least a little wider than your vacuumhose, you need two pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole that match the size of the hose in one, and a hole that match your drillpress colom in the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hole!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is some wonderful old tools to make holes… (got them on e-bay for 18$ with shipping).
> Sorry this has nothing to do with the blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make a cut in your plywood pieces, that goes from the side and all the way into the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some rubber hose, to put on the edge, to make it hold better, but it was acually not needed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now a test set up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some rounding on the sander, and it looks fine.
> The bit's and pieces for next stop are, a threaded rod, and some selfholding nuts, and some wingnuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole through the block for the drillpress table colom, that fits the threaded rod, here it will be fine to use your drillpress table…
> (that is if you made first part first ofcourse).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill a matching hole in the vacuum hose holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of a piece of rod, that can go through both the holder, the two bolts and the hose mount (not like me on the picture, to forget first the hose mount and end up with a wonderful useless short thing!!!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the rod (sounds like a rap song).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the selftightening bolt in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run it through and ad a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Viola! Here we go again…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some final adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for treatment, I give it a little beeswax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it on the drillpress.
> (I took of the motor).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the wauuuu effect are there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now holes without dust.
> 
> I used it now a few times, and it works perfectly well - but I'm quite lazy, since I don't have a fixed suction system in my shop, so I have to move the suction from machine to machine.
> (this might be one of the next improvements).
> 
> You can see, my how to make the table blog drillpress table and much more! here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Hi Div and TJ,
Yes the never ending story… It's just wonderful.
I'm glad TJ if you can use this, it will make me happy.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Schwieb

mafe said:


> *Making the vacuum hose holder (diy) blog*
> 
> *Making the vacuumhose holder!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is the result! Just to make it easier to understand where we are going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First cut some scraps up in good sizes, and thickness… At least a little wider than your vacuumhose, you need two pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole that match the size of the hose in one, and a hole that match your drillpress colom in the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hole!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is some wonderful old tools to make holes… (got them on e-bay for 18$ with shipping).
> Sorry this has nothing to do with the blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make a cut in your plywood pieces, that goes from the side and all the way into the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some rubber hose, to put on the edge, to make it hold better, but it was acually not needed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now a test set up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some rounding on the sander, and it looks fine.
> The bit's and pieces for next stop are, a threaded rod, and some selfholding nuts, and some wingnuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole through the block for the drillpress table colom, that fits the threaded rod, here it will be fine to use your drillpress table…
> (that is if you made first part first ofcourse).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill a matching hole in the vacuum hose holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of a piece of rod, that can go through both the holder, the two bolts and the hose mount (not like me on the picture, to forget first the hose mount and end up with a wonderful useless short thing!!!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the rod (sounds like a rap song).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the selftightening bolt in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run it through and ad a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Viola! Here we go again…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some final adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for treatment, I give it a little beeswax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it on the drillpress.
> (I took of the motor).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the wauuuu effect are there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now holes without dust.
> 
> I used it now a few times, and it works perfectly well - but I'm quite lazy, since I don't have a fixed suction system in my shop, so I have to move the suction from machine to machine.
> (this might be one of the next improvements).
> 
> You can see, my how to make the table blog drillpress table and much more! here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


I can really appreciate a person who spends as much time making fixtures and items "for" the shop; to make it easier to work "in" the shop. Good work Mads. I, like Div wonder when you sleep. Seeing the roll of drills reminds me of a wonderful set of auger bits for a brace I bought awhile back. Still in original wooden storage box, all in excellent, (like new) condition. 1/4" to 1".

Keep up the great work, you do inspire many of us.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the vacuum hose holder (diy) blog*
> 
> *Making the vacuumhose holder!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is the result! Just to make it easier to understand where we are going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First cut some scraps up in good sizes, and thickness… At least a little wider than your vacuumhose, you need two pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole that match the size of the hose in one, and a hole that match your drillpress colom in the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hole!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is some wonderful old tools to make holes… (got them on e-bay for 18$ with shipping).
> Sorry this has nothing to do with the blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make a cut in your plywood pieces, that goes from the side and all the way into the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some rubber hose, to put on the edge, to make it hold better, but it was acually not needed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now a test set up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some rounding on the sander, and it looks fine.
> The bit's and pieces for next stop are, a threaded rod, and some selfholding nuts, and some wingnuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole through the block for the drillpress table colom, that fits the threaded rod, here it will be fine to use your drillpress table…
> (that is if you made first part first ofcourse).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill a matching hole in the vacuum hose holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of a piece of rod, that can go through both the holder, the two bolts and the hose mount (not like me on the picture, to forget first the hose mount and end up with a wonderful useless short thing!!!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the rod (sounds like a rap song).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the selftightening bolt in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run it through and ad a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Viola! Here we go again…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some final adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for treatment, I give it a little beeswax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it on the drillpress.
> (I took of the motor).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the wauuuu effect are there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now holes without dust.
> 
> I used it now a few times, and it works perfectly well - but I'm quite lazy, since I don't have a fixed suction system in my shop, so I have to move the suction from machine to machine.
> (this might be one of the next improvements).
> 
> You can see, my how to make the table blog drillpress table and much more! here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Hi Dr Ken,
Thank you, and yes I love it! I'm not sure I'll ever get down to woodworking…
Ahhh some one noticed those beautiful drills, for me this was really a bargain, and just the toolroll with this beautiful patina… Don't get me started.
Best thoughts from your almost little brother,
Mads


----------



## huntter2022

mafe said:


> *Making the vacuum hose holder (diy) blog*
> 
> *Making the vacuumhose holder!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is the result! Just to make it easier to understand where we are going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First cut some scraps up in good sizes, and thickness… At least a little wider than your vacuumhose, you need two pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole that match the size of the hose in one, and a hole that match your drillpress colom in the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hole!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is some wonderful old tools to make holes… (got them on e-bay for 18$ with shipping).
> Sorry this has nothing to do with the blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make a cut in your plywood pieces, that goes from the side and all the way into the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some rubber hose, to put on the edge, to make it hold better, but it was acually not needed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now a test set up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some rounding on the sander, and it looks fine.
> The bit's and pieces for next stop are, a threaded rod, and some selfholding nuts, and some wingnuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole through the block for the drillpress table colom, that fits the threaded rod, here it will be fine to use your drillpress table…
> (that is if you made first part first ofcourse).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill a matching hole in the vacuum hose holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of a piece of rod, that can go through both the holder, the two bolts and the hose mount (not like me on the picture, to forget first the hose mount and end up with a wonderful useless short thing!!!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the rod (sounds like a rap song).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the selftightening bolt in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run it through and ad a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Viola! Here we go again…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some final adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for treatment, I give it a little beeswax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it on the drillpress.
> (I took of the motor).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the wauuuu effect are there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now holes without dust.
> 
> I used it now a few times, and it works perfectly well - but I'm quite lazy, since I don't have a fixed suction system in my shop, so I have to move the suction from machine to machine.
> (this might be one of the next improvements).
> 
> You can see, my how to make the table blog drillpress table and much more! here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


That is a good addition to the drill press always trying to rig something up 
Thank you
David


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the vacuum hose holder (diy) blog*
> 
> *Making the vacuumhose holder!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is the result! Just to make it easier to understand where we are going.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First cut some scraps up in good sizes, and thickness… At least a little wider than your vacuumhose, you need two pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole that match the size of the hose in one, and a hole that match your drillpress colom in the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a hole!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is some wonderful old tools to make holes… (got them on e-bay for 18$ with shipping).
> Sorry this has nothing to do with the blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make a cut in your plywood pieces, that goes from the side and all the way into the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found some rubber hose, to put on the edge, to make it hold better, but it was acually not needed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now a test set up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some rounding on the sander, and it looks fine.
> The bit's and pieces for next stop are, a threaded rod, and some selfholding nuts, and some wingnuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drill a hole through the block for the drillpress table colom, that fits the threaded rod, here it will be fine to use your drillpress table…
> (that is if you made first part first ofcourse).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill a matching hole in the vacuum hose holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of a piece of rod, that can go through both the holder, the two bolts and the hose mount (not like me on the picture, to forget first the hose mount and end up with a wonderful useless short thing!!!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the rod (sounds like a rap song).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the selftightening bolt in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run it through and ad a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Viola! Here we go again…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some final adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for treatment, I give it a little beeswax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount it on the drillpress.
> (I took of the motor).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the wauuuu effect are there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now holes without dust.
> 
> I used it now a few times, and it works perfectly well - but I'm quite lazy, since I don't have a fixed suction system in my shop, so I have to move the suction from machine to machine.
> (this might be one of the next improvements).
> 
> You can see, my how to make the table blog drillpress table and much more! here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Thank you huntter2022.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Hold down clamps (cheap version) blog*

*Hold down clamps!*
This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…

So time for the last part for now, the hold down or hold fast clamps.
My solution are quick and dirty…
Two china clamps 2,5$, some work.









First file of the little metalpiece, that makes sure the clamp cant part in two.
(It's at the end of the long silver arm).









Then slide it of.









Bore a hole thrugh, that fits, a bolt for your fence.









Make the mounting, mine are for T-track.









And now ready to hold.









Version two, is simply to use the spurs for the fence, and then clamp through these, now you are able to put it apart.

It's probaly not the coolest clamps on the planet, but they work and they are really cheap.

You can see, my original drillpress table post here.

Hope it can be to some inspiration,

*Best of thoughts,*
MaFe2010


----------



## docholladay

mafe said:


> *Hold down clamps (cheap version) blog*
> 
> *Hold down clamps!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> So time for the last part for now, the hold down or hold fast clamps.
> My solution are quick and dirty…
> Two china clamps 2,5$, some work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First file of the little metalpiece, that makes sure the clamp cant part in two.
> (It's at the end of the long silver arm).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then slide it of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole thrugh, that fits, a bolt for your fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make the mounting, mine are for T-track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready to hold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Version two, is simply to use the spurs for the fence, and then clamp through these, now you are able to put it apart.
> 
> It's probaly not the coolest clamps on the planet, but they work and they are really cheap.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


That is a great idea.


----------



## BobG

mafe said:


> *Hold down clamps (cheap version) blog*
> 
> *Hold down clamps!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> So time for the last part for now, the hold down or hold fast clamps.
> My solution are quick and dirty…
> Two china clamps 2,5$, some work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First file of the little metalpiece, that makes sure the clamp cant part in two.
> (It's at the end of the long silver arm).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then slide it of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole thrugh, that fits, a bolt for your fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make the mounting, mine are for T-track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready to hold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Version two, is simply to use the spurs for the fence, and then clamp through these, now you are able to put it apart.
> 
> It's probaly not the coolest clamps on the planet, but they work and they are really cheap.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


AWESOME Mafe! Where did you get that hacksaw? I have never seen one with such heft to it.

Bob g.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Hold down clamps (cheap version) blog*
> 
> *Hold down clamps!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> So time for the last part for now, the hold down or hold fast clamps.
> My solution are quick and dirty…
> Two china clamps 2,5$, some work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First file of the little metalpiece, that makes sure the clamp cant part in two.
> (It's at the end of the long silver arm).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then slide it of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole thrugh, that fits, a bolt for your fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make the mounting, mine are for T-track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready to hold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Version two, is simply to use the spurs for the fence, and then clamp through these, now you are able to put it apart.
> 
> It's probaly not the coolest clamps on the planet, but they work and they are really cheap.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Hi,
docholladay: Thank you my friend.
BobG: I do not remember sorry…
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## woodspark

mafe said:


> *Hold down clamps (cheap version) blog*
> 
> *Hold down clamps!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> So time for the last part for now, the hold down or hold fast clamps.
> My solution are quick and dirty…
> Two china clamps 2,5$, some work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First file of the little metalpiece, that makes sure the clamp cant part in two.
> (It's at the end of the long silver arm).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then slide it of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole thrugh, that fits, a bolt for your fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make the mounting, mine are for T-track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready to hold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Version two, is simply to use the spurs for the fence, and then clamp through these, now you are able to put it apart.
> 
> It's probaly not the coolest clamps on the planet, but they work and they are really cheap.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


That is very neat my friend! Wish I had time for this too! Life is too short but great!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Hold down clamps (cheap version) blog*
> 
> *Hold down clamps!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> So time for the last part for now, the hold down or hold fast clamps.
> My solution are quick and dirty…
> Two china clamps 2,5$, some work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First file of the little metalpiece, that makes sure the clamp cant part in two.
> (It's at the end of the long silver arm).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then slide it of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole thrugh, that fits, a bolt for your fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make the mounting, mine are for T-track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready to hold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Version two, is simply to use the spurs for the fence, and then clamp through these, now you are able to put it apart.
> 
> It's probaly not the coolest clamps on the planet, but they work and they are really cheap.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Hi Div,
Yes life are way to short - but my God it's so beautiful.
Yes, I know I have plenty of time now, that I'm retired, and that's also why I have the chance to build up a dream workshop for my future life, and I love to go there, when my health allow me to, with no special purpose, except to build me a wonderful cave. I hope in the near future to make some furniture, but for now, it's the plkace it self, and also to learn all the skills, so I take it day by day, and learn, even I can be very impatient, especially when I', ill, and can't go there.
I don't remember if I ever told you, but it was my dream to be a woodworker as young, but my parents said I needed a high education, so I was not allowed, this I allways regreaded, but now I have the chance, and I take it, and love this.
Best thoughts, my friend, you have a mail from me,
Mads


----------



## manilaboy

mafe said:


> *Hold down clamps (cheap version) blog*
> 
> *Hold down clamps!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> So time for the last part for now, the hold down or hold fast clamps.
> My solution are quick and dirty…
> Two china clamps 2,5$, some work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First file of the little metalpiece, that makes sure the clamp cant part in two.
> (It's at the end of the long silver arm).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then slide it of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole thrugh, that fits, a bolt for your fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make the mounting, mine are for T-track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready to hold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Version two, is simply to use the spurs for the fence, and then clamp through these, now you are able to put it apart.
> 
> It's probaly not the coolest clamps on the planet, but they work and they are really cheap.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Hi. I used to work for a Danish consulting firm's project here in the Philippines. Carl Bro International. You might have heard of it. It was fun working with you guys.

Rico


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Hold down clamps (cheap version) blog*
> 
> *Hold down clamps!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> So time for the last part for now, the hold down or hold fast clamps.
> My solution are quick and dirty…
> Two china clamps 2,5$, some work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First file of the little metalpiece, that makes sure the clamp cant part in two.
> (It's at the end of the long silver arm).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then slide it of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole thrugh, that fits, a bolt for your fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make the mounting, mine are for T-track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready to hold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Version two, is simply to use the spurs for the fence, and then clamp through these, now you are able to put it apart.
> 
> It's probaly not the coolest clamps on the planet, but they work and they are really cheap.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Hi Manilla boy,
Yes I heard of Carl Bro, they are big players.
Best thoughts,
MaFe


----------



## swirt

mafe said:


> *Hold down clamps (cheap version) blog*
> 
> *Hold down clamps!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> So time for the last part for now, the hold down or hold fast clamps.
> My solution are quick and dirty…
> Two china clamps 2,5$, some work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First file of the little metalpiece, that makes sure the clamp cant part in two.
> (It's at the end of the long silver arm).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then slide it of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole thrugh, that fits, a bolt for your fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make the mounting, mine are for T-track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready to hold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Version two, is simply to use the spurs for the fence, and then clamp through these, now you are able to put it apart.
> 
> It's probaly not the coolest clamps on the planet, but they work and they are really cheap.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Once again, your cleverness is an inspiration to me. Thank you.


----------



## slimt

mafe said:


> *Hold down clamps (cheap version) blog*
> 
> *Hold down clamps!*
> This story are based on a real bench drillpress, all you see are reality, and all at your own risk…
> 
> So time for the last part for now, the hold down or hold fast clamps.
> My solution are quick and dirty…
> Two china clamps 2,5$, some work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First file of the little metalpiece, that makes sure the clamp cant part in two.
> (It's at the end of the long silver arm).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then slide it of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bore a hole thrugh, that fits, a bolt for your fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make the mounting, mine are for T-track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now ready to hold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Version two, is simply to use the spurs for the fence, and then clamp through these, now you are able to put it apart.
> 
> It's probaly not the coolest clamps on the planet, but they work and they are really cheap.
> 
> You can see, my original drillpress table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> MaFe2010


Great idea and the price is right I hope you are able to spend a lot of time in your shop Good health to you .


----------



## mafe

*Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*

*Drill press turning *
Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.

Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
- But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.









This was how it turned out.









A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.









Now drive a screw into the hole.
(In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).









Now cut the head of the screw.









Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.









Close up!









Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.









Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
(And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).









Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
(But I must admit I had great fun).









Now we are getting there!
I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
(On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).









Time for the files to get to a finer finish.









Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.









Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.









And here we are!









Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
(The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).









Compare or not compare - that's the question!









I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.









The coin!









And the result.
I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.

I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
So there is no excuse for not trying.
I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.









If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.









It will leave only a little mark.

I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,

best thoughts,

*MaFe*


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Geminiguy made a DIY chunk that can be used as well.


----------



## littlecope

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Nicely Done, my Friend!! 
I've used the drill press to make small knobs, for boxes, but never for something as large as that… Nice to see it can be done!! Very Clever!!


----------



## Schwieb

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Like my Dad always said, It's what you do with the tools that you have that counts. Very clever Mads!!


----------



## helluvawreck

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


This was very creative and interesting, Mads. As always, you're a very interesting guy and are always coming up with something new to try. I enjoyed the post. Thanks


----------



## docholladay

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


The hard part doing it this way is that you have to lie down on your side to do it. It makes it more challenging that way. Just kidding. LOL. It does make me glad I have a 4 jaw chuck though. As always, Mads, very clever solution to a unique problem. I seriously think you should be in the tool and jig design business. You should be patenting some of your creations.


----------



## Jason34

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Another excellent blog Mads. You come up with very clever solutions.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Doc we don´t lie down sidewayes …we tilt the drillpress horisontel…. erh voilá a lathe…..LOL
want a bigger lathe ….buy a floormaunted drillpress )

great toturial as usual Mads  
beside all the things we normely use a drillpress for this is just one of the 150 things
a drillpress can be used for and thats why I think its the most importen electric power tool to buy
when we talk stationaire , from this you can always upgrade if needed

take care
Dennis


----------



## swirt

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Nice tutorial Mafe. Clever as always and it makes me glad to know that I am not the only one who feels drawn sometimes to take the less easy road just to be more of a challenge. Somehow though you end up with better results than I do


----------



## chrisstef

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Just what i was looking for !! Not having a lathe led me to a few mismathced planes, totes and knobs not the same wood …. so happy to find the solution. Thanks Mafe very ingenious,


----------



## lanwater

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


very resourcefull!


----------



## Kindlingmaker

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Great blog!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Mike, there were no problems, as soon as I had made the rest.
Dr. Ken, I have so many tools, so I guess it will keep my busy for a while… Smile.
helluvawreck, I'm a child!
docholladay, no the hard part was not to fall asleep when lie there… You made me laugh.
Jason, merci.
Dennis, it still cant make me that espresso!
swirt, may the child in us never die. (I feel also we have a likenes there).
chrisstef, jubiiii, then go for it, it's why I made this blog, I'm always so happy when some one say they will do it.
Ian and Kindlingmaker, thank you.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Bluebear

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


very creative way to make such a beautiful knob!
you might seriously consider writing a book, you've almost got enough ideas for an encyclopaedia!!!
dont stop playing mads, the inner child is fantastic 
keep it coming, i enjoy reading your blogs!


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


so you want an expresso-lathe hmmmm nothing that can´t be solved mirakels just take a little longer…LOL

take care
Dennis


----------



## PaBull

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Thanks Mad, this makes me feel like running out of my office…. taking the rest of the day off… stopping for an espresso… let the business go to pots…. and working on my drill press to build a new tote or something like that.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Thank you PaBull, that's the best I can hear.
Flemming, I am a child!
Dennis, yes turninga espresso!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## bch

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Wonderful as always. Thanks for the time you put into your projects and blogs.


----------



## lilredweldingrod

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Mafe, I see one major thing missing on the drill press…..the espresso cup holder!!! C'mon, get with it. lol

I never though of making a lathe from my drill press. Thank you! I need a couple of handles and was saving for a lathe that I have no place to put. Always a great day when you learn something new.

Best wishes to you Professor.


----------



## DMIHOMECENTER

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Mafe, How is it you have already done all the things I want to do ? You are indeed a man ahead of my time ! ;=)


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Hi ho,
Yes I'm curious, so I like to try new ways even when I have another…
That is probably why David…
Ohh my Rand, you are right, no cup holder, I will have to work on that one.
Bch, thank you for telling me, it makes me full of smiles.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## falegniam

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


That's using your coconut. I like that. You've taught me a nice trick. I'm sure it has inspired others to. Nice job on the plane knob.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


falegniam, I laugh 'using my coconut', thank you.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## jimwoodie

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


I just did this today. When I first started, I thought you were truly mad, but it worked out great! Thank you!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press turning (making a plane knob) Blog*
> 
> *Drill press turning *
> Making a plane knob on the drill press challenge.
> 
> Last week I needed a knob for a fence I was making for my no. 3 and 4 planes, and was ready to go to the lathe.
> - But decided to challenge myself by making it on the drill press, with the simplest means I could find (yes I'm a child).
> I also took pictures as I went along so I could share it with those who don't have a lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A piece of wood, if you don't happen to have a piece of a old parasol foot that are already round as I did, then cut it at least to a octagon before using it.
> Find the center, and drill a hole in both ends or all the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drive a screw into the hole.
> (In the back you see the fence where I needed this and that at this stage it was a little rustic for the design…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut the head of the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make also a hole in a piece of wood (any kind, but long enough to be fastened), and put a short nail through the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the cut of screw in your drill press, and center the nail under, adjust the height, and fasten to the drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grab a rasp and turn on your drill press - this is where the fun begins!
> You need to move the rasp as you go, so it will not fill up.
> (And as you can see of course I forgot to turn on my vac mount…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I have these bad arms, so I fast discovered that it would be easier with a fence to hold the rasp against.
> Two pieces of wood and a clamp, that's it - we have a vertical lathe. So I even tried with the lathe chisels, but actually I found it more easy to use the rasp due to the position.
> (But I must admit I had great fun).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are getting there!
> I just eye balled the shape of a plane knob, but you can use a caliper or just a compass if you want to be precise.
> I choose to make a big base plate, since I was going to use it on a side fence and not a plane.
> (On this picture it's still fixed to the nail in the bottom).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for the files to get to a finer finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Different grids of sand paper, I choose to end a 360, and did not try to make it 'perfect'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remove the nail board so you can finish the top of the knob with the drill press spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut of the extra (if you have any…).
> (The little scrap piece of wood is to hold it horizontal while I cut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compare or not compare - that's the question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a little hole and mounted a vintage Swedish coin, just for the X-factor!
> Gave it some Danish oil and then bee wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the result.
> I'll post the making of the fence later or tomorrow as a blog also.
> 
> I will say the try was a success, it worked easy and smooth, and there are no costs for additional gadgets.
> So there is no excuse for not trying.
> I know there are many versions made, but I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't want a hole in the knob, you can use a countersink as 'hold' while turning; just give it a bang with a hammer.
> But then you need to be careful not to use too much pressure while turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will leave only a little mark.
> 
> I hope this can bring some old planes back to life or be used to make a fence for your plane,
> 
> best thoughts,
> 
> *MaFe*


Thanks Jim, always happy to know some of my madness makes sense.
Most of all to know that the things I post can be used.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*New deep stop for drill press.*

*Making a new deep stop*
Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.

This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.









This is what it is, a deep stop.









This is the old one in red plastic.
Why change it?
Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
(you get what you pay for…).









I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.









Clean up the inside.









Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.









Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
Also now I add a bolt.









The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
And then weld them together.









With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.









This is what I end up with.









After some sanding of my terrible welding…









And here with the bolt in place.









The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.









Now I thread the hole.









Sand of the end of a threaded rod.









The stop is put together.
Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.









This is how it looks when it comes down.

I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.

You can see, my original drill press table post here.

Hope it can be to some inspiration,

*Best of thoughts,* 
Mads


----------



## patron

mafe said:


> *New deep stop for drill press.*
> 
> *Making a new deep stop*
> Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.
> 
> This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it is, a deep stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old one in red plastic.
> Why change it?
> Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
> (you get what you pay for…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
> Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
> The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
> Also now I add a bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
> And then weld them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
> The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some sanding of my terrible welding…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the bolt in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I thread the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of the end of a threaded rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop is put together.
> Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it looks when it comes down.
> 
> I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.
> 
> You can see, my original drill press table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> Mads


well mads 
you got your moneys worth
this time

well done


----------



## Brit

mafe said:


> *New deep stop for drill press.*
> 
> *Making a new deep stop*
> Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.
> 
> This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it is, a deep stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old one in red plastic.
> Why change it?
> Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
> (you get what you pay for…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
> Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
> The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
> Also now I add a bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
> And then weld them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
> The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some sanding of my terrible welding…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the bolt in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I thread the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of the end of a threaded rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop is put together.
> Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it looks when it comes down.
> 
> I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.
> 
> You can see, my original drill press table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> Mads


You never cease to amaze me Mads. Is there nothing you won't take on? Oh wait, I already know the answer to that question. Great job my friend, it sure beats that horrible red plastic.


----------



## donwilwol

mafe said:


> *New deep stop for drill press.*
> 
> *Making a new deep stop*
> Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.
> 
> This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it is, a deep stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old one in red plastic.
> Why change it?
> Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
> (you get what you pay for…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
> Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
> The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
> Also now I add a bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
> And then weld them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
> The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some sanding of my terrible welding…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the bolt in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I thread the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of the end of a threaded rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop is put together.
> Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it looks when it comes down.
> 
> I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.
> 
> You can see, my original drill press table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> Mads


Are you sure you want to *stop* there? Nice improvement.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *New deep stop for drill press.*
> 
> *Making a new deep stop*
> Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.
> 
> This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it is, a deep stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old one in red plastic.
> Why change it?
> Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
> (you get what you pay for…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
> Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
> The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
> Also now I add a bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
> And then weld them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
> The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some sanding of my terrible welding…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the bolt in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I thread the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of the end of a threaded rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop is put together.
> Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it looks when it comes down.
> 
> I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.
> 
> You can see, my original drill press table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> Mads


Don, next stop is a new drill press…

Andy, laugh, yes I guess there are a few things. 
I love your new quote.
In the Danish elevators you can notice a sign saying I FART, in Danish this means IN MOVEMENT meaning the elevator is running, in English I guess you know better than me…

David, yes!!!

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Brit

mafe said:


> *New deep stop for drill press.*
> 
> *Making a new deep stop*
> Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.
> 
> This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it is, a deep stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old one in red plastic.
> Why change it?
> Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
> (you get what you pay for…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
> Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
> The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
> Also now I add a bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
> And then weld them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
> The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some sanding of my terrible welding…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the bolt in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I thread the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of the end of a threaded rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop is put together.
> Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it looks when it comes down.
> 
> I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.
> 
> You can see, my original drill press table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> Mads


Funny you should say that Mads, as my client in Humlebaek was telling me the same thing today.


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *New deep stop for drill press.*
> 
> *Making a new deep stop*
> Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.
> 
> This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it is, a deep stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old one in red plastic.
> Why change it?
> Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
> (you get what you pay for…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
> Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
> The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
> Also now I add a bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
> And then weld them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
> The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some sanding of my terrible welding…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the bolt in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I thread the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of the end of a threaded rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop is put together.
> Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it looks when it comes down.
> 
> I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.
> 
> You can see, my original drill press table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> Mads


Mads, that is a great improvement, I did almost the same thing to mine. Would you like a push button quick nut for your depth adjustment. I have an extra one if that is a 3/8-16 thread. If not, I can send you a threaded rod and some jamb nuts to make it fit?
Being the scale is on metric, I'll bet the thread is metric. If it is 8 mm I have and extra one of those too!
It looks like 10 mm, just a bit bigger than 3/8". Let me know. The quick nut makes depth adjustment one handed!

..........Jim


----------



## lanwater

mafe said:


> *New deep stop for drill press.*
> 
> *Making a new deep stop*
> Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.
> 
> This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it is, a deep stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old one in red plastic.
> Why change it?
> Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
> (you get what you pay for…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
> Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
> The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
> Also now I add a bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
> And then weld them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
> The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some sanding of my terrible welding…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the bolt in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I thread the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of the end of a threaded rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop is put together.
> Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it looks when it comes down.
> 
> I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.
> 
> You can see, my original drill press table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> Mads


Well done Mads.

I do not need one but it is nice to see how it is done.

Thanks!


----------



## nobuckle

mafe said:


> *New deep stop for drill press.*
> 
> *Making a new deep stop*
> Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.
> 
> This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it is, a deep stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old one in red plastic.
> Why change it?
> Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
> (you get what you pay for…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
> Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
> The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
> Also now I add a bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
> And then weld them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
> The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some sanding of my terrible welding…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the bolt in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I thread the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of the end of a threaded rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop is put together.
> Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it looks when it comes down.
> 
> I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.
> 
> You can see, my original drill press table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> Mads


Well done. It's always cool to see a fellow woodworker working with other materials. As a former toolmaker I can appreciate the time and effort you put into this upgrade. Way to go.


----------



## Bricofleur

mafe said:


> *New deep stop for drill press.*
> 
> *Making a new deep stop*
> Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.
> 
> This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it is, a deep stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old one in red plastic.
> Why change it?
> Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
> (you get what you pay for…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
> Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
> The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
> Also now I add a bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
> And then weld them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
> The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some sanding of my terrible welding…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the bolt in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I thread the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of the end of a threaded rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop is put together.
> Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it looks when it comes down.
> 
> I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.
> 
> You can see, my original drill press table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> Mads


Hey Mads, There's no end to imagination, particularly yours! Good job, and practical too.

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com


----------



## SPalm

mafe said:


> *New deep stop for drill press.*
> 
> *Making a new deep stop*
> Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.
> 
> This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it is, a deep stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old one in red plastic.
> Why change it?
> Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
> (you get what you pay for…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
> Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
> The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
> Also now I add a bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
> And then weld them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
> The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some sanding of my terrible welding…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the bolt in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I thread the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of the end of a threaded rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop is put together.
> Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it looks when it comes down.
> 
> I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.
> 
> You can see, my original drill press table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> Mads


Good job!
It is so cool to watch you work.
And watch your brain work too.
Thanks for the inspiration.

Steve


----------



## FreddyS

mafe said:


> *New deep stop for drill press.*
> 
> *Making a new deep stop*
> Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.
> 
> This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it is, a deep stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old one in red plastic.
> Why change it?
> Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
> (you get what you pay for…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
> Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
> The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
> Also now I add a bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
> And then weld them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
> The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some sanding of my terrible welding…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the bolt in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I thread the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of the end of a threaded rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop is put together.
> Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it looks when it comes down.
> 
> I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.
> 
> You can see, my original drill press table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> Mads


nice upgrade mafe!, I been thinking to get a small welding plant for stuff like this


----------



## fernandoindia

mafe said:


> *New deep stop for drill press.*
> 
> *Making a new deep stop*
> Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.
> 
> This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it is, a deep stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old one in red plastic.
> Why change it?
> Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
> (you get what you pay for…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
> Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
> The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
> Also now I add a bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
> And then weld them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
> The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some sanding of my terrible welding…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the bolt in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I thread the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of the end of a threaded rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop is put together.
> Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it looks when it comes down.
> 
> I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.
> 
> You can see, my original drill press table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> Mads


wow Mads . that´s a cute improvement.

I´ll review all my low quality made stuff

Don´t stop.
Well you don´t need such advice anyway--


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *New deep stop for drill press.*
> 
> *Making a new deep stop*
> Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.
> 
> This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it is, a deep stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old one in red plastic.
> Why change it?
> Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
> (you get what you pay for…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
> Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
> The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
> Also now I add a bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
> And then weld them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
> The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some sanding of my terrible welding…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the bolt in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I thread the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of the end of a threaded rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop is put together.
> Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it looks when it comes down.
> 
> I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.
> 
> You can see, my original drill press table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi guys,
I have been in the forest to breathe the wonderful fresh air, and then a little in the workshop to smell some wood, what more can a man ask for?

Fernando, laugh, yes it is almost a do not buy review, I can add that the power swich now is working by the help of a clamp…

Freddy, I love my little welder, so many things has become possible, so many new ways, it's a little co2 welder where there are no bottles but it is in the wire.

Steve, smile here, happy to hear it still works, sometimes I doubt it…

Serge, yes no rocket but a fine fix.

Doug, yes welding is not exactly my speciality, but I really enjoy it, I would prefere a bigger shop since I always burn something when I weld, and also some tools dedicated to that, but… we cant have it all, can we? Tool maker, that is cool.

Ian, I hope you will never need it - lol.

Jim, you are so kind. I will send you a mail with the specifications, I would love one of those bolts, to be able to do it one handed would be so cool. I never seen a bolt like that. Thank you my friend, I was looking at St. Jude today and sending a warm thought, he is on my workshop wall, and brings me smiles and hope.

Andy, yes that was funny. Hope you enjoy life, a beer this week?

Best thoughts and a wish for you to have a nice weekend,
Mads


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mafe said:


> *New deep stop for drill press.*
> 
> *Making a new deep stop*
> Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.
> 
> This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it is, a deep stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old one in red plastic.
> Why change it?
> Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
> (you get what you pay for…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
> Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
> The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
> Also now I add a bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
> And then weld them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
> The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some sanding of my terrible welding…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the bolt in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I thread the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of the end of a threaded rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop is put together.
> Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it looks when it comes down.
> 
> I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.
> 
> You can see, my original drill press table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> Mads


cool Mads 
thank´s for sharing….. I have never seen a holesaw used for metalcutting before …. LOL

take care
Dennis


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *New deep stop for drill press.*
> 
> *Making a new deep stop*
> Actually more metal than wood, and no rocket science.
> 
> This post is about an upgrade of a low quality drill press, and I post it since someone here on LJ asked me what it was he saw on my drill press, and I can remember who asked… so here is the answer out in the open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it is, a deep stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the old one in red plastic.
> Why change it?
> Because the plastic was so soft that it was really not stopping as it was supposed to.
> (you get what you pay for…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a metal plate from an old friend, 10 mm thick.
> Drilled two holes in it with a metal cutter and plenty of cutting oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ring will now fit the moving 'arm'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a slice in the big ring.
> The inside I cut out will be a part of the final stop.
> Also now I add a bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two rings are sanded flat where they meet, and I hold them in place with nails.
> And then weld them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some steel wire I hold the bolt and nut in place to be welded.
> The nut on the right is bored out so the bolt can run free inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some sanding of my terrible welding…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here with the bolt in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk goes of the drill press and the stop is test mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I thread the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand of the end of a threaded rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop is put together.
> Two nuts on the rod make a fixed stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it looks when it comes down.
> 
> I'm not sure this will be interesting to a lot, but now it's posted, and my answer is given.
> 
> You can see, my original drill press table post here.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration,
> 
> *Best of thoughts,*
> Mads


Dennis, thank you, it is a metal version, not the woody one it would die in a moment.
Take care buddy,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*

*Drill press drum sander table*
foot powered oscillating.

I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
Why?
Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts. 
But basically I made it for the joy of making it.









So material are MDF.
First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.









Walls and sides.









Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…









This is the layout.
Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.









The sides are open for clamping.
Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.









Tataaaaa.
Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.









So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…









Base are glued.









Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
Will explain why.
I hope.









Here you see the two layers.









The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.









Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
A few strips of MDF.









Glue.
Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
Again I nailed it with a air nailer.









So now time to play with the router.
I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).









Set the size.









Like this.









Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.









Bingo.
(except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).









But now I can test it.









It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.









Now I make that double top.
I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.









Here glued and nailed in place.









You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.









Now time to make some inserts.









This time I cut on the band saw.









Just rough and the a hole in center.









Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.









Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.









I do this for all my drum sizes.









Cut some holes.









Mount the drum.









And action!









Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.









Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.









Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
Low tech oscillating.
Use grid 60-80 for shaping.









You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.









So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).









Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.









Then ad a bolt and wing nut.









Quick and clean.









Basically that's it.









But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.









Like this, kind of cool I think.









So this is where we say goodbye.
Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.

Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.

*The best of my thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## SASmith

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


A nice addition to any shop.
Thanks for sharing, mads.


----------



## lew

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Now that's cool! I especially like the oscillating mechanism!

Maybe a variation on it might be a spring loaded pedal.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


If you don't have drums or need special sizes, these links might be interesting.








Another interesting link Inside Diameter Sanding Jig:





Another way of spindles:













This is what I bought and got me inspired, I will make a review at some point.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Scott, thanks for leaving a comment, I do appreciate it.
Lew, yes I think I need to upgrade that part if I will use it more than once in a while.
Could make a foot pedal like the once for a pole lathe, think all I need is two pieces of wood and hinge.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


More videos.
This one is fun:




This is so cool:





Lew, here are a solution: 



And just found this guy that was there before me: 




That should give plenty of options, laugh.

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## patron

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


well done mads

Happy boy you are and happy boy I am, to know you are so.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Thanks David, always happy, even when sad.


----------



## todd628

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice idea Mads,
That should make the sanding much better, and with the vac attached it should be low dust working.

Have a blessed evening, Todd


----------



## ronniebo

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Mafe,
Great job and inspiration to me because I have been messing around for a while looking for a not too expensive drill press.
I stumbled on a 1953 Shopsmith which I have just completed restoring with new bearings etc.
When the drill chuck is restored I will try your ideas.
I have done away with the full length bed for the SS to be used as a lathe and made a simple stand that simply houses the machine in vertical drill press mode. A lot less floor space needed.
When I get into action I will try again to add some fotos.
Cheers from sunny Hobart
Ron


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Good job Mads. Why didn't I think of that ? ;-))


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Shopsmith attachment: http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/sn_oscillatingdrumsander.htm


----------



## Tomoose

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Great project and informative post, as always. I did miss the usual picture of your pipe and tobacco at a break! Keep up the wonderful posts - you are an inspiration to many.

Best,
Tom


----------



## ronniebo

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads












Thanks for that info Mafe, but I prefer your idea and work.
Thsis is my old (don`t tell my wife), so you can see why I prefer to stick to your system.
Ron


----------



## ronniebo

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


As you can tell I styruggle with these BL%%%%%% computers and I am unable to get a foto from mine.
I will keep on trying in the dark.
TB


----------



## ronniebo

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads












Let`s see if this F***ing machine can find it now.


----------



## ronniebo

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


I don`t believe it.
RB


----------



## Dutchy

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


You will have a lot of benefit from this table.


----------



## JR45

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Really neat solution. The oscillator is perfect!
Jim


----------



## Diggerjacks

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Hello Mafe

Very nice blog with a very lot of explications with good pictures

I have a triton TSPS450 : I'm very very very happy with this machine

THanks for sharing


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice design and a good build.


----------



## Kentuk55

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice picture blog and a nice addition to your shop.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Todd, it's almost dust free, I'm really impressed.
ronniebo, that sounds like a perfect project, I really love those machines. (Big laugh of all your posts).
Topa, it's never to late…
Tomoose, I just had the influenza, so I don't smoke too much these days, smiles that you noticed. Thanks for the kind words.
Dutcy, yes I also think it will be a friend.
Jim Rowe, real groundbreaking rocket science….
Diggerjack, just saw you cool sanding fence again, so now I have to make one like it… The to do list never stops growing. 
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/31346
I am happy to hear your review, I'm sure it's the same machine, I look forward to get mine, guess the fence can be used on both.
Mike, smiles here.
Roger, thanks mate.
Thank you all for your comments, happy to see the interest on this simple upgrade, hope it will be used.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Diggerjacks

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Hello Mafe

The fence is a must and the result is very ncie

If you want more explications or pictures mail me


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander table - foot powered oscillating*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander table*
> foot powered oscillating.
> 
> I just bought a oscillating spindle sander and this was ironically the thing that inspired me to make this little project…
> Why?
> Just for fun, but also to be able to use my Supersander with a flat surface and a fence for thickness sanding small parts.
> But basically I made it for the joy of making it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So material are MDF.
> First I cut a base and top that fits my drill press table.
> Think now I would have made it a little bigger if I made it again, just to get some more table surface, but in my small machine room it's fine I'm not going to vanish in jigs and tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Walls and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange things that will give meaning in next picture…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the layout.
> Base with walls, sides and the inside airflow walls or what ever I shall call them.
> They are meant to prevent the dust from collecting in the corners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides are open for clamping.
> Where the pen points I will make a hole for the shop wac hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tataaaaa.
> Drilling a hole that will fit the hose you see in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So glue and nails, I use a air nailer.
> As always I shoot some of them in wrong directions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Base are glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cut a extra top in thin MDF.
> Will explain why.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the two layers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest drum I will use are the Supersander, so this determents the size of the hole in the top plate.
> I make it a few mm bigger in each side to get a good air flow from the wac.
> If the hole are to small it will not be able to suck and if it's too big, it will suck too much outside air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok now I am confused, but while the glue was drying or for what ever reason I can think of, I made a fence for it.
> A few strips of MDF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> Make sure you get it 90 degrees.
> Again I nailed it with a air nailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now time to play with the router.
> I hate the router, too much noise, but a lovely tool it is.
> I set up my circle cutting jig (can be found in my projects).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then power on and make a full turn around the clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo.
> (except I forgot to turn the wac on, so I made a terrible mess).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works really well, all dust are gone and it seems sturdy.
> A cool feature are that you can raise and lower the table, so you get to use the full with of the sandpaper.
> If you need a table for the Supersander only, you can stop now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I make that double top.
> I make the hole bigger than the table top hole, this so I can make inserts to fit all my drums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here glued and nailed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see a rebate for making inserts and a opening for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now time to make some inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I cut on the band saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just rough and the a hole in center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then use a circle sanding jig for making them fit, I want a loose fit so they are easy to get up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now draw in the size of drum and a little extra for air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do this for all my drum sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut some holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And action!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets not get too exited, just go on MaFe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supersander with the insert in place, this was why I made it and I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok to make it oscillating or kind of… I add a string to the drill press handle and then put a loop at the end I can put my foot inside, then I can move it up and down as I sand.
> Yes it sounds really stupid I know, but try, you will be surprised.
> The sanding are much more effective and the paper don't clung up as fast.
> Low tech oscillating.
> Use grid 60-80 for shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may laugh that I work with no shoes today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we have the kit, inserts, drums a sandpaper cleaning stick (you can also use a piece of Plexiglas).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to make a fast mount instead of the clamps, this because I have tracks in my drill press table.
> So I mark where the tracks are, when the drum are in perfect position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then ad a bolt and wing nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically that's it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fence can be added and so you have a little thickness sander.
> Remember to put the piece into the sander against the turning direction - otherwise you have a shooter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this, kind of cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is where we say goodbye.
> Another jig added to the shop, a few hours work and a really useful tool.
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Smiles, I am working on something now… Laughs.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*Drill press drum sander jointer / planer - I just had to...*

*Drill press drum sander jointer / planer*
I just had to…

Ok I admit it, I am infected by the woodworm, it has bitten me and infected my brain.
I am a woodoholic, a lost case, may the wood be with me.

After building the drill press drum sander table I could not get out of my mind that it would be fun to make a planer top for it.
No I did not need one, I have no idea if I will, but who cares!
By the end of this blog, you will see that I now got one.
Yes and it works.
Shut up MaFe and start the blog, who cares if you need one?









I was looking at the table and realized this could be fun…
What I did not realize was that it was not all that simple as two pieces of MDF.
So MDF, shape to fit drum.
Yes you make it spin, it's that easy.









So I cut them to length (actually too small, but…).









Ok lets make a base for the show.
Need to find the right placement for the sander, so the suction will work still.









Now I can cut out the hole for the Supersander.









Does it make sense now?
Honestly it was a bit messy in my head, just tried as I went, no plans.









Now I will make the one side of the bed adjustable, like on a real planner.
The infeed table can be lowered.
Two MDF pieces will be the lift and the base need to be cut of a little so that it can get lower then the outfeed table.
Marking up for the lift and the cut.
(The clever viewer will see what I do wrong, the rest like my self will see later).









Cutting a rabbet for the lift.









Like this.









Off go the top, so it can be lowered.









A top plate are made to stabilize it.









Now it can run up and down in the rabbets.









TAPAAAAUUUUUUUU…
Yes this was when I realized I had to mirror it.
Fools fall in love and make mistakes, guess I'm quite a fool.
Why it needed to be mirrored?
Due to the direction of the drum when spinning, we need to go against the spin, otherwise we are out of control.
Yes I know, I'm out of control in general…









Not a big deal, just have to cut a new rabbet.
Then some glue.









Outfeed table are fixed.









Square it up and add a backup piece for strength.









And a back side to the box.









I give it a few screws, just to make sure it's sturdy.









Then the lift are glued together.









Squared up.









Just to be sure it will run straight, it gets some sides too.









More glue.









More glue and a top with a rabbet.









Now I screw up and in.
Screw up, because I start drilling without a clamp so the MDF cracks…
Then screw in the top.









A really long screw.
Yes there are blood on the jig… Mine. Nothing serious.









We got a lift!









Sorry to be out of focus, but this should show the idea.









Now I can square it all up.









Fixating the lift by drilling and leaving the drill in the hole.
Then glue on the lift top.
(Here you can see the screwed up MDF).









Two screws and glue should do the job.









Get it?









I could not find my threaded inserts (found them after).
So I used one of these, really should have been in from the other side, but we will fix it.









All this for fixing…









Ok, we are getting close now.









A top are fitted, need a hole for the drill press to reach the drum.









Check!









Ohh yes and that terrible threaded thing…









Got it fixed, the lid will hold it in place.
I hope.









A toy wheel can make a handle for the bolt.









Two holes.









Epoxy.









Bang!









Ohh yes and I fixed it.









Now the top can be mounted, I do this with no glue, so it can be opened in case I need that.









Here from down under.









Just for pleasure I close the screw holes on the in- and outfeed tables.









Then fasten the drum to the drill press.









Clamping it in place.
And yes it really works and really well in fact.
So a happy monkey here, with a smile, isn't that what this is all about?

Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.

*The best of my thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer - I just had to...*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer*
> I just had to…
> 
> Ok I admit it, I am infected by the woodworm, it has bitten me and infected my brain.
> I am a woodoholic, a lost case, may the wood be with me.
> 
> After building the drill press drum sander table I could not get out of my mind that it would be fun to make a planer top for it.
> No I did not need one, I have no idea if I will, but who cares!
> By the end of this blog, you will see that I now got one.
> Yes and it works.
> Shut up MaFe and start the blog, who cares if you need one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the table and realized this could be fun…
> What I did not realize was that it was not all that simple as two pieces of MDF.
> So MDF, shape to fit drum.
> Yes you make it spin, it's that easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut them to length (actually too small, but…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets make a base for the show.
> Need to find the right placement for the sander, so the suction will work still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can cut out the hole for the Supersander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it make sense now?
> Honestly it was a bit messy in my head, just tried as I went, no plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will make the one side of the bed adjustable, like on a real planner.
> The infeed table can be lowered.
> Two MDF pieces will be the lift and the base need to be cut of a little so that it can get lower then the outfeed table.
> Marking up for the lift and the cut.
> (The clever viewer will see what I do wrong, the rest like my self will see later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a rabbet for the lift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off go the top, so it can be lowered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top plate are made to stabilize it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it can run up and down in the rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TAPAAAAUUUUUUUU…
> Yes this was when I realized I had to mirror it.
> Fools fall in love and make mistakes, guess I'm quite a fool.
> Why it needed to be mirrored?
> Due to the direction of the drum when spinning, we need to go against the spin, otherwise we are out of control.
> Yes I know, I'm out of control in general…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, just have to cut a new rabbet.
> Then some glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Outfeed table are fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square it up and add a backup piece for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a back side to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it a few screws, just to make sure it's sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the lift are glued together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be sure it will run straight, it gets some sides too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue and a top with a rabbet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I screw up and in.
> Screw up, because I start drilling without a clamp so the MDF cracks…
> Then screw in the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A really long screw.
> Yes there are blood on the jig… Mine. Nothing serious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a lift!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to be out of focus, but this should show the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can square it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixating the lift by drilling and leaving the drill in the hole.
> Then glue on the lift top.
> (Here you can see the screwed up MDF).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two screws and glue should do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could not find my threaded inserts (found them after).
> So I used one of these, really should have been in from the other side, but we will fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All this for fixing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, we are getting close now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top are fitted, need a hole for the drill press to reach the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and that terrible threaded thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it fixed, the lid will hold it in place.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A toy wheel can make a handle for the bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and I fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the top can be mounted, I do this with no glue, so it can be opened in case I need that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from down under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for pleasure I close the screw holes on the in- and outfeed tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then fasten the drum to the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping it in place.
> And yes it really works and really well in fact.
> So a happy monkey here, with a smile, isn't that what this is all about?
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


If I should start over, I would find the threaded inserts fist, spend too much time fixing and I would make the planner same width as the table, this would make it more easy to clamp in place.


----------



## Bricofleur

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer - I just had to...*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer*
> I just had to…
> 
> Ok I admit it, I am infected by the woodworm, it has bitten me and infected my brain.
> I am a woodoholic, a lost case, may the wood be with me.
> 
> After building the drill press drum sander table I could not get out of my mind that it would be fun to make a planer top for it.
> No I did not need one, I have no idea if I will, but who cares!
> By the end of this blog, you will see that I now got one.
> Yes and it works.
> Shut up MaFe and start the blog, who cares if you need one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the table and realized this could be fun…
> What I did not realize was that it was not all that simple as two pieces of MDF.
> So MDF, shape to fit drum.
> Yes you make it spin, it's that easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut them to length (actually too small, but…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets make a base for the show.
> Need to find the right placement for the sander, so the suction will work still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can cut out the hole for the Supersander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it make sense now?
> Honestly it was a bit messy in my head, just tried as I went, no plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will make the one side of the bed adjustable, like on a real planner.
> The infeed table can be lowered.
> Two MDF pieces will be the lift and the base need to be cut of a little so that it can get lower then the outfeed table.
> Marking up for the lift and the cut.
> (The clever viewer will see what I do wrong, the rest like my self will see later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a rabbet for the lift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off go the top, so it can be lowered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top plate are made to stabilize it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it can run up and down in the rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TAPAAAAUUUUUUUU…
> Yes this was when I realized I had to mirror it.
> Fools fall in love and make mistakes, guess I'm quite a fool.
> Why it needed to be mirrored?
> Due to the direction of the drum when spinning, we need to go against the spin, otherwise we are out of control.
> Yes I know, I'm out of control in general…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, just have to cut a new rabbet.
> Then some glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Outfeed table are fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square it up and add a backup piece for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a back side to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it a few screws, just to make sure it's sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the lift are glued together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be sure it will run straight, it gets some sides too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue and a top with a rabbet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I screw up and in.
> Screw up, because I start drilling without a clamp so the MDF cracks…
> Then screw in the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A really long screw.
> Yes there are blood on the jig… Mine. Nothing serious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a lift!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to be out of focus, but this should show the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can square it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixating the lift by drilling and leaving the drill in the hole.
> Then glue on the lift top.
> (Here you can see the screwed up MDF).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two screws and glue should do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could not find my threaded inserts (found them after).
> So I used one of these, really should have been in from the other side, but we will fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All this for fixing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, we are getting close now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top are fitted, need a hole for the drill press to reach the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and that terrible threaded thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it fixed, the lid will hold it in place.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A toy wheel can make a handle for the bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and I fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the top can be mounted, I do this with no glue, so it can be opened in case I need that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from down under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for pleasure I close the screw holes on the in- and outfeed tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then fasten the drum to the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping it in place.
> And yes it really works and really well in fact.
> So a happy monkey here, with a smile, isn't that what this is all about?
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Well thought, Mads. You went to the 'good' school ! LOL

Comment on photo #15: Be careful not to get any splinter in that particular finger !! LOL

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer - I just had to...*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer*
> I just had to…
> 
> Ok I admit it, I am infected by the woodworm, it has bitten me and infected my brain.
> I am a woodoholic, a lost case, may the wood be with me.
> 
> After building the drill press drum sander table I could not get out of my mind that it would be fun to make a planer top for it.
> No I did not need one, I have no idea if I will, but who cares!
> By the end of this blog, you will see that I now got one.
> Yes and it works.
> Shut up MaFe and start the blog, who cares if you need one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the table and realized this could be fun…
> What I did not realize was that it was not all that simple as two pieces of MDF.
> So MDF, shape to fit drum.
> Yes you make it spin, it's that easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut them to length (actually too small, but…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets make a base for the show.
> Need to find the right placement for the sander, so the suction will work still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can cut out the hole for the Supersander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it make sense now?
> Honestly it was a bit messy in my head, just tried as I went, no plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will make the one side of the bed adjustable, like on a real planner.
> The infeed table can be lowered.
> Two MDF pieces will be the lift and the base need to be cut of a little so that it can get lower then the outfeed table.
> Marking up for the lift and the cut.
> (The clever viewer will see what I do wrong, the rest like my self will see later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a rabbet for the lift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off go the top, so it can be lowered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top plate are made to stabilize it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it can run up and down in the rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TAPAAAAUUUUUUUU…
> Yes this was when I realized I had to mirror it.
> Fools fall in love and make mistakes, guess I'm quite a fool.
> Why it needed to be mirrored?
> Due to the direction of the drum when spinning, we need to go against the spin, otherwise we are out of control.
> Yes I know, I'm out of control in general…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, just have to cut a new rabbet.
> Then some glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Outfeed table are fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square it up and add a backup piece for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a back side to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it a few screws, just to make sure it's sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the lift are glued together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be sure it will run straight, it gets some sides too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue and a top with a rabbet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I screw up and in.
> Screw up, because I start drilling without a clamp so the MDF cracks…
> Then screw in the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A really long screw.
> Yes there are blood on the jig… Mine. Nothing serious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a lift!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to be out of focus, but this should show the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can square it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixating the lift by drilling and leaving the drill in the hole.
> Then glue on the lift top.
> (Here you can see the screwed up MDF).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two screws and glue should do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could not find my threaded inserts (found them after).
> So I used one of these, really should have been in from the other side, but we will fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All this for fixing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, we are getting close now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top are fitted, need a hole for the drill press to reach the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and that terrible threaded thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it fixed, the lid will hold it in place.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A toy wheel can make a handle for the bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and I fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the top can be mounted, I do this with no glue, so it can be opened in case I need that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from down under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for pleasure I close the screw holes on the in- and outfeed tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then fasten the drum to the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping it in place.
> And yes it really works and really well in fact.
> So a happy monkey here, with a smile, isn't that what this is all about?
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Serge, it is funny you are the first to comment, since I was thinking about you as I made the planner, it kind of reminded me of you in a good way. I was thinking to make one later for my drum sander, now I have the principals. Yes we took the same classes I think!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Bricofleur

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer - I just had to...*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer*
> I just had to…
> 
> Ok I admit it, I am infected by the woodworm, it has bitten me and infected my brain.
> I am a woodoholic, a lost case, may the wood be with me.
> 
> After building the drill press drum sander table I could not get out of my mind that it would be fun to make a planer top for it.
> No I did not need one, I have no idea if I will, but who cares!
> By the end of this blog, you will see that I now got one.
> Yes and it works.
> Shut up MaFe and start the blog, who cares if you need one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the table and realized this could be fun…
> What I did not realize was that it was not all that simple as two pieces of MDF.
> So MDF, shape to fit drum.
> Yes you make it spin, it's that easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut them to length (actually too small, but…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets make a base for the show.
> Need to find the right placement for the sander, so the suction will work still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can cut out the hole for the Supersander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it make sense now?
> Honestly it was a bit messy in my head, just tried as I went, no plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will make the one side of the bed adjustable, like on a real planner.
> The infeed table can be lowered.
> Two MDF pieces will be the lift and the base need to be cut of a little so that it can get lower then the outfeed table.
> Marking up for the lift and the cut.
> (The clever viewer will see what I do wrong, the rest like my self will see later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a rabbet for the lift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off go the top, so it can be lowered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top plate are made to stabilize it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it can run up and down in the rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TAPAAAAUUUUUUUU…
> Yes this was when I realized I had to mirror it.
> Fools fall in love and make mistakes, guess I'm quite a fool.
> Why it needed to be mirrored?
> Due to the direction of the drum when spinning, we need to go against the spin, otherwise we are out of control.
> Yes I know, I'm out of control in general…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, just have to cut a new rabbet.
> Then some glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Outfeed table are fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square it up and add a backup piece for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a back side to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it a few screws, just to make sure it's sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the lift are glued together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be sure it will run straight, it gets some sides too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue and a top with a rabbet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I screw up and in.
> Screw up, because I start drilling without a clamp so the MDF cracks…
> Then screw in the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A really long screw.
> Yes there are blood on the jig… Mine. Nothing serious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a lift!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to be out of focus, but this should show the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can square it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixating the lift by drilling and leaving the drill in the hole.
> Then glue on the lift top.
> (Here you can see the screwed up MDF).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two screws and glue should do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could not find my threaded inserts (found them after).
> So I used one of these, really should have been in from the other side, but we will fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All this for fixing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, we are getting close now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top are fitted, need a hole for the drill press to reach the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and that terrible threaded thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it fixed, the lid will hold it in place.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A toy wheel can make a handle for the bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and I fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the top can be mounted, I do this with no glue, so it can be opened in case I need that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from down under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for pleasure I close the screw holes on the in- and outfeed tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then fasten the drum to the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping it in place.
> And yes it really works and really well in fact.
> So a happy monkey here, with a smile, isn't that what this is all about?
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Mads, what about just using pins or dowels to register the assembly on drill press table ? They would be glued under the assembly and dropped in holes in your drill press table. They would prevent the assembly from shifting and I believe there is no need to clamp it down. Just a thought !

Serge


----------



## patron

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer - I just had to...*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer*
> I just had to…
> 
> Ok I admit it, I am infected by the woodworm, it has bitten me and infected my brain.
> I am a woodoholic, a lost case, may the wood be with me.
> 
> After building the drill press drum sander table I could not get out of my mind that it would be fun to make a planer top for it.
> No I did not need one, I have no idea if I will, but who cares!
> By the end of this blog, you will see that I now got one.
> Yes and it works.
> Shut up MaFe and start the blog, who cares if you need one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the table and realized this could be fun…
> What I did not realize was that it was not all that simple as two pieces of MDF.
> So MDF, shape to fit drum.
> Yes you make it spin, it's that easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut them to length (actually too small, but…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets make a base for the show.
> Need to find the right placement for the sander, so the suction will work still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can cut out the hole for the Supersander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it make sense now?
> Honestly it was a bit messy in my head, just tried as I went, no plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will make the one side of the bed adjustable, like on a real planner.
> The infeed table can be lowered.
> Two MDF pieces will be the lift and the base need to be cut of a little so that it can get lower then the outfeed table.
> Marking up for the lift and the cut.
> (The clever viewer will see what I do wrong, the rest like my self will see later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a rabbet for the lift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off go the top, so it can be lowered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top plate are made to stabilize it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it can run up and down in the rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TAPAAAAUUUUUUUU…
> Yes this was when I realized I had to mirror it.
> Fools fall in love and make mistakes, guess I'm quite a fool.
> Why it needed to be mirrored?
> Due to the direction of the drum when spinning, we need to go against the spin, otherwise we are out of control.
> Yes I know, I'm out of control in general…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, just have to cut a new rabbet.
> Then some glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Outfeed table are fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square it up and add a backup piece for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a back side to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it a few screws, just to make sure it's sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the lift are glued together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be sure it will run straight, it gets some sides too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue and a top with a rabbet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I screw up and in.
> Screw up, because I start drilling without a clamp so the MDF cracks…
> Then screw in the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A really long screw.
> Yes there are blood on the jig… Mine. Nothing serious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a lift!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to be out of focus, but this should show the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can square it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixating the lift by drilling and leaving the drill in the hole.
> Then glue on the lift top.
> (Here you can see the screwed up MDF).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two screws and glue should do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could not find my threaded inserts (found them after).
> So I used one of these, really should have been in from the other side, but we will fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All this for fixing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, we are getting close now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top are fitted, need a hole for the drill press to reach the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and that terrible threaded thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it fixed, the lid will hold it in place.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A toy wheel can make a handle for the bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and I fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the top can be mounted, I do this with no glue, so it can be opened in case I need that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from down under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for pleasure I close the screw holes on the in- and outfeed tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then fasten the drum to the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping it in place.
> And yes it really works and really well in fact.
> So a happy monkey here, with a smile, isn't that what this is all about?
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


you is run amuck

the beauty is maybe you don't need it
that way you can enjoy the journey
without straining to do it 'right'

lots to learn this way
without tripping over yourself
with crazy ideas

great work

proud of you once again mads


----------



## Brit

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer - I just had to...*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer*
> I just had to…
> 
> Ok I admit it, I am infected by the woodworm, it has bitten me and infected my brain.
> I am a woodoholic, a lost case, may the wood be with me.
> 
> After building the drill press drum sander table I could not get out of my mind that it would be fun to make a planer top for it.
> No I did not need one, I have no idea if I will, but who cares!
> By the end of this blog, you will see that I now got one.
> Yes and it works.
> Shut up MaFe and start the blog, who cares if you need one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the table and realized this could be fun…
> What I did not realize was that it was not all that simple as two pieces of MDF.
> So MDF, shape to fit drum.
> Yes you make it spin, it's that easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut them to length (actually too small, but…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets make a base for the show.
> Need to find the right placement for the sander, so the suction will work still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can cut out the hole for the Supersander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it make sense now?
> Honestly it was a bit messy in my head, just tried as I went, no plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will make the one side of the bed adjustable, like on a real planner.
> The infeed table can be lowered.
> Two MDF pieces will be the lift and the base need to be cut of a little so that it can get lower then the outfeed table.
> Marking up for the lift and the cut.
> (The clever viewer will see what I do wrong, the rest like my self will see later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a rabbet for the lift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off go the top, so it can be lowered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top plate are made to stabilize it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it can run up and down in the rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TAPAAAAUUUUUUUU…
> Yes this was when I realized I had to mirror it.
> Fools fall in love and make mistakes, guess I'm quite a fool.
> Why it needed to be mirrored?
> Due to the direction of the drum when spinning, we need to go against the spin, otherwise we are out of control.
> Yes I know, I'm out of control in general…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, just have to cut a new rabbet.
> Then some glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Outfeed table are fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square it up and add a backup piece for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a back side to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it a few screws, just to make sure it's sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the lift are glued together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be sure it will run straight, it gets some sides too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue and a top with a rabbet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I screw up and in.
> Screw up, because I start drilling without a clamp so the MDF cracks…
> Then screw in the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A really long screw.
> Yes there are blood on the jig… Mine. Nothing serious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a lift!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to be out of focus, but this should show the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can square it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixating the lift by drilling and leaving the drill in the hole.
> Then glue on the lift top.
> (Here you can see the screwed up MDF).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two screws and glue should do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could not find my threaded inserts (found them after).
> So I used one of these, really should have been in from the other side, but we will fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All this for fixing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, we are getting close now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top are fitted, need a hole for the drill press to reach the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and that terrible threaded thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it fixed, the lid will hold it in place.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A toy wheel can make a handle for the bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and I fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the top can be mounted, I do this with no glue, so it can be opened in case I need that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from down under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for pleasure I close the screw holes on the in- and outfeed tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then fasten the drum to the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping it in place.
> And yes it really works and really well in fact.
> So a happy monkey here, with a smile, isn't that what this is all about?
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


I'm lost Mads (LOL), but don't worry because I'm just mastering a penknife, so it will be a l-o-n-g while before I make one of these. ) Glad I'm not the only one messing around with MDF. I can't wait to work some real wood again though.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer - I just had to...*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer*
> I just had to…
> 
> Ok I admit it, I am infected by the woodworm, it has bitten me and infected my brain.
> I am a woodoholic, a lost case, may the wood be with me.
> 
> After building the drill press drum sander table I could not get out of my mind that it would be fun to make a planer top for it.
> No I did not need one, I have no idea if I will, but who cares!
> By the end of this blog, you will see that I now got one.
> Yes and it works.
> Shut up MaFe and start the blog, who cares if you need one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the table and realized this could be fun…
> What I did not realize was that it was not all that simple as two pieces of MDF.
> So MDF, shape to fit drum.
> Yes you make it spin, it's that easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut them to length (actually too small, but…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets make a base for the show.
> Need to find the right placement for the sander, so the suction will work still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can cut out the hole for the Supersander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it make sense now?
> Honestly it was a bit messy in my head, just tried as I went, no plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will make the one side of the bed adjustable, like on a real planner.
> The infeed table can be lowered.
> Two MDF pieces will be the lift and the base need to be cut of a little so that it can get lower then the outfeed table.
> Marking up for the lift and the cut.
> (The clever viewer will see what I do wrong, the rest like my self will see later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a rabbet for the lift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off go the top, so it can be lowered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top plate are made to stabilize it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it can run up and down in the rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TAPAAAAUUUUUUUU…
> Yes this was when I realized I had to mirror it.
> Fools fall in love and make mistakes, guess I'm quite a fool.
> Why it needed to be mirrored?
> Due to the direction of the drum when spinning, we need to go against the spin, otherwise we are out of control.
> Yes I know, I'm out of control in general…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, just have to cut a new rabbet.
> Then some glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Outfeed table are fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square it up and add a backup piece for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a back side to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it a few screws, just to make sure it's sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the lift are glued together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be sure it will run straight, it gets some sides too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue and a top with a rabbet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I screw up and in.
> Screw up, because I start drilling without a clamp so the MDF cracks…
> Then screw in the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A really long screw.
> Yes there are blood on the jig… Mine. Nothing serious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a lift!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to be out of focus, but this should show the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can square it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixating the lift by drilling and leaving the drill in the hole.
> Then glue on the lift top.
> (Here you can see the screwed up MDF).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two screws and glue should do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could not find my threaded inserts (found them after).
> So I used one of these, really should have been in from the other side, but we will fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All this for fixing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, we are getting close now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top are fitted, need a hole for the drill press to reach the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and that terrible threaded thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it fixed, the lid will hold it in place.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A toy wheel can make a handle for the bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and I fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the top can be mounted, I do this with no glue, so it can be opened in case I need that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from down under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for pleasure I close the screw holes on the in- and outfeed tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then fasten the drum to the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping it in place.
> And yes it really works and really well in fact.
> So a happy monkey here, with a smile, isn't that what this is all about?
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads











Like this only sandpaper on a drum instead of knifes.


----------



## SPalm

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer - I just had to...*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer*
> I just had to…
> 
> Ok I admit it, I am infected by the woodworm, it has bitten me and infected my brain.
> I am a woodoholic, a lost case, may the wood be with me.
> 
> After building the drill press drum sander table I could not get out of my mind that it would be fun to make a planer top for it.
> No I did not need one, I have no idea if I will, but who cares!
> By the end of this blog, you will see that I now got one.
> Yes and it works.
> Shut up MaFe and start the blog, who cares if you need one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the table and realized this could be fun…
> What I did not realize was that it was not all that simple as two pieces of MDF.
> So MDF, shape to fit drum.
> Yes you make it spin, it's that easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut them to length (actually too small, but…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets make a base for the show.
> Need to find the right placement for the sander, so the suction will work still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can cut out the hole for the Supersander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it make sense now?
> Honestly it was a bit messy in my head, just tried as I went, no plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will make the one side of the bed adjustable, like on a real planner.
> The infeed table can be lowered.
> Two MDF pieces will be the lift and the base need to be cut of a little so that it can get lower then the outfeed table.
> Marking up for the lift and the cut.
> (The clever viewer will see what I do wrong, the rest like my self will see later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a rabbet for the lift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off go the top, so it can be lowered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top plate are made to stabilize it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it can run up and down in the rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TAPAAAAUUUUUUUU…
> Yes this was when I realized I had to mirror it.
> Fools fall in love and make mistakes, guess I'm quite a fool.
> Why it needed to be mirrored?
> Due to the direction of the drum when spinning, we need to go against the spin, otherwise we are out of control.
> Yes I know, I'm out of control in general…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, just have to cut a new rabbet.
> Then some glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Outfeed table are fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square it up and add a backup piece for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a back side to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it a few screws, just to make sure it's sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the lift are glued together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be sure it will run straight, it gets some sides too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue and a top with a rabbet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I screw up and in.
> Screw up, because I start drilling without a clamp so the MDF cracks…
> Then screw in the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A really long screw.
> Yes there are blood on the jig… Mine. Nothing serious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a lift!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to be out of focus, but this should show the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can square it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixating the lift by drilling and leaving the drill in the hole.
> Then glue on the lift top.
> (Here you can see the screwed up MDF).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two screws and glue should do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could not find my threaded inserts (found them after).
> So I used one of these, really should have been in from the other side, but we will fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All this for fixing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, we are getting close now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top are fitted, need a hole for the drill press to reach the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and that terrible threaded thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it fixed, the lid will hold it in place.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A toy wheel can make a handle for the bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and I fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the top can be mounted, I do this with no glue, so it can be opened in case I need that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from down under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for pleasure I close the screw holes on the in- and outfeed tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then fasten the drum to the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping it in place.
> And yes it really works and really well in fact.
> So a happy monkey here, with a smile, isn't that what this is all about?
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


I love to watch people think. You are a good thinker.

Looks like a nice addition to the shop of Mads.

Steve


----------



## lew

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer - I just had to...*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer*
> I just had to…
> 
> Ok I admit it, I am infected by the woodworm, it has bitten me and infected my brain.
> I am a woodoholic, a lost case, may the wood be with me.
> 
> After building the drill press drum sander table I could not get out of my mind that it would be fun to make a planer top for it.
> No I did not need one, I have no idea if I will, but who cares!
> By the end of this blog, you will see that I now got one.
> Yes and it works.
> Shut up MaFe and start the blog, who cares if you need one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the table and realized this could be fun…
> What I did not realize was that it was not all that simple as two pieces of MDF.
> So MDF, shape to fit drum.
> Yes you make it spin, it's that easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut them to length (actually too small, but…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets make a base for the show.
> Need to find the right placement for the sander, so the suction will work still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can cut out the hole for the Supersander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it make sense now?
> Honestly it was a bit messy in my head, just tried as I went, no plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will make the one side of the bed adjustable, like on a real planner.
> The infeed table can be lowered.
> Two MDF pieces will be the lift and the base need to be cut of a little so that it can get lower then the outfeed table.
> Marking up for the lift and the cut.
> (The clever viewer will see what I do wrong, the rest like my self will see later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a rabbet for the lift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off go the top, so it can be lowered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top plate are made to stabilize it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it can run up and down in the rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TAPAAAAUUUUUUUU…
> Yes this was when I realized I had to mirror it.
> Fools fall in love and make mistakes, guess I'm quite a fool.
> Why it needed to be mirrored?
> Due to the direction of the drum when spinning, we need to go against the spin, otherwise we are out of control.
> Yes I know, I'm out of control in general…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, just have to cut a new rabbet.
> Then some glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Outfeed table are fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square it up and add a backup piece for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a back side to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it a few screws, just to make sure it's sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the lift are glued together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be sure it will run straight, it gets some sides too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue and a top with a rabbet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I screw up and in.
> Screw up, because I start drilling without a clamp so the MDF cracks…
> Then screw in the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A really long screw.
> Yes there are blood on the jig… Mine. Nothing serious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a lift!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to be out of focus, but this should show the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can square it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixating the lift by drilling and leaving the drill in the hole.
> Then glue on the lift top.
> (Here you can see the screwed up MDF).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two screws and glue should do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could not find my threaded inserts (found them after).
> So I used one of these, really should have been in from the other side, but we will fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All this for fixing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, we are getting close now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top are fitted, need a hole for the drill press to reach the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and that terrible threaded thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it fixed, the lid will hold it in place.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A toy wheel can make a handle for the bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and I fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the top can be mounted, I do this with no glue, so it can be opened in case I need that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from down under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for pleasure I close the screw holes on the in- and outfeed tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then fasten the drum to the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping it in place.
> And yes it really works and really well in fact.
> So a happy monkey here, with a smile, isn't that what this is all about?
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Cool build, Mads!

I used a similar idea on my oscillating spindle sander to thickness the inserts for my rolling pins. Later I built a standalone thickness sander.


----------



## Kentuk55

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer - I just had to...*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer*
> I just had to…
> 
> Ok I admit it, I am infected by the woodworm, it has bitten me and infected my brain.
> I am a woodoholic, a lost case, may the wood be with me.
> 
> After building the drill press drum sander table I could not get out of my mind that it would be fun to make a planer top for it.
> No I did not need one, I have no idea if I will, but who cares!
> By the end of this blog, you will see that I now got one.
> Yes and it works.
> Shut up MaFe and start the blog, who cares if you need one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the table and realized this could be fun…
> What I did not realize was that it was not all that simple as two pieces of MDF.
> So MDF, shape to fit drum.
> Yes you make it spin, it's that easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut them to length (actually too small, but…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets make a base for the show.
> Need to find the right placement for the sander, so the suction will work still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can cut out the hole for the Supersander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it make sense now?
> Honestly it was a bit messy in my head, just tried as I went, no plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will make the one side of the bed adjustable, like on a real planner.
> The infeed table can be lowered.
> Two MDF pieces will be the lift and the base need to be cut of a little so that it can get lower then the outfeed table.
> Marking up for the lift and the cut.
> (The clever viewer will see what I do wrong, the rest like my self will see later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a rabbet for the lift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off go the top, so it can be lowered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top plate are made to stabilize it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it can run up and down in the rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TAPAAAAUUUUUUUU…
> Yes this was when I realized I had to mirror it.
> Fools fall in love and make mistakes, guess I'm quite a fool.
> Why it needed to be mirrored?
> Due to the direction of the drum when spinning, we need to go against the spin, otherwise we are out of control.
> Yes I know, I'm out of control in general…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, just have to cut a new rabbet.
> Then some glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Outfeed table are fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square it up and add a backup piece for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a back side to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it a few screws, just to make sure it's sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the lift are glued together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be sure it will run straight, it gets some sides too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue and a top with a rabbet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I screw up and in.
> Screw up, because I start drilling without a clamp so the MDF cracks…
> Then screw in the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A really long screw.
> Yes there are blood on the jig… Mine. Nothing serious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a lift!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to be out of focus, but this should show the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can square it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixating the lift by drilling and leaving the drill in the hole.
> Then glue on the lift top.
> (Here you can see the screwed up MDF).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two screws and glue should do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could not find my threaded inserts (found them after).
> So I used one of these, really should have been in from the other side, but we will fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All this for fixing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, we are getting close now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top are fitted, need a hole for the drill press to reach the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and that terrible threaded thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it fixed, the lid will hold it in place.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A toy wheel can make a handle for the bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and I fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the top can be mounted, I do this with no glue, so it can be opened in case I need that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from down under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for pleasure I close the screw holes on the in- and outfeed tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then fasten the drum to the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping it in place.
> And yes it really works and really well in fact.
> So a happy monkey here, with a smile, isn't that what this is all about?
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Very hi-tech build there Mads. Very good.


----------



## icemanhank

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer - I just had to...*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer*
> I just had to…
> 
> Ok I admit it, I am infected by the woodworm, it has bitten me and infected my brain.
> I am a woodoholic, a lost case, may the wood be with me.
> 
> After building the drill press drum sander table I could not get out of my mind that it would be fun to make a planer top for it.
> No I did not need one, I have no idea if I will, but who cares!
> By the end of this blog, you will see that I now got one.
> Yes and it works.
> Shut up MaFe and start the blog, who cares if you need one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the table and realized this could be fun…
> What I did not realize was that it was not all that simple as two pieces of MDF.
> So MDF, shape to fit drum.
> Yes you make it spin, it's that easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut them to length (actually too small, but…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets make a base for the show.
> Need to find the right placement for the sander, so the suction will work still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can cut out the hole for the Supersander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it make sense now?
> Honestly it was a bit messy in my head, just tried as I went, no plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will make the one side of the bed adjustable, like on a real planner.
> The infeed table can be lowered.
> Two MDF pieces will be the lift and the base need to be cut of a little so that it can get lower then the outfeed table.
> Marking up for the lift and the cut.
> (The clever viewer will see what I do wrong, the rest like my self will see later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a rabbet for the lift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off go the top, so it can be lowered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top plate are made to stabilize it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it can run up and down in the rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TAPAAAAUUUUUUUU…
> Yes this was when I realized I had to mirror it.
> Fools fall in love and make mistakes, guess I'm quite a fool.
> Why it needed to be mirrored?
> Due to the direction of the drum when spinning, we need to go against the spin, otherwise we are out of control.
> Yes I know, I'm out of control in general…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, just have to cut a new rabbet.
> Then some glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Outfeed table are fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square it up and add a backup piece for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a back side to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it a few screws, just to make sure it's sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the lift are glued together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be sure it will run straight, it gets some sides too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue and a top with a rabbet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I screw up and in.
> Screw up, because I start drilling without a clamp so the MDF cracks…
> Then screw in the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A really long screw.
> Yes there are blood on the jig… Mine. Nothing serious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a lift!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to be out of focus, but this should show the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can square it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixating the lift by drilling and leaving the drill in the hole.
> Then glue on the lift top.
> (Here you can see the screwed up MDF).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two screws and glue should do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could not find my threaded inserts (found them after).
> So I used one of these, really should have been in from the other side, but we will fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All this for fixing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, we are getting close now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top are fitted, need a hole for the drill press to reach the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and that terrible threaded thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it fixed, the lid will hold it in place.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A toy wheel can make a handle for the bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and I fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the top can be mounted, I do this with no glue, so it can be opened in case I need that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from down under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for pleasure I close the screw holes on the in- and outfeed tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then fasten the drum to the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping it in place.
> And yes it really works and really well in fact.
> So a happy monkey here, with a smile, isn't that what this is all about?
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


Mads you are unbelievable, I would love to meet you one day!

I can't even keep up with your posts but I have to as I enjoy them and you creativity so much.

Love your work, David


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer - I just had to...*
> 
> *Drill press drum sander jointer / planer*
> I just had to…
> 
> Ok I admit it, I am infected by the woodworm, it has bitten me and infected my brain.
> I am a woodoholic, a lost case, may the wood be with me.
> 
> After building the drill press drum sander table I could not get out of my mind that it would be fun to make a planer top for it.
> No I did not need one, I have no idea if I will, but who cares!
> By the end of this blog, you will see that I now got one.
> Yes and it works.
> Shut up MaFe and start the blog, who cares if you need one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the table and realized this could be fun…
> What I did not realize was that it was not all that simple as two pieces of MDF.
> So MDF, shape to fit drum.
> Yes you make it spin, it's that easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut them to length (actually too small, but…).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok lets make a base for the show.
> Need to find the right placement for the sander, so the suction will work still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can cut out the hole for the Supersander.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it make sense now?
> Honestly it was a bit messy in my head, just tried as I went, no plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will make the one side of the bed adjustable, like on a real planner.
> The infeed table can be lowered.
> Two MDF pieces will be the lift and the base need to be cut of a little so that it can get lower then the outfeed table.
> Marking up for the lift and the cut.
> (The clever viewer will see what I do wrong, the rest like my self will see later).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting a rabbet for the lift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Off go the top, so it can be lowered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top plate are made to stabilize it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it can run up and down in the rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TAPAAAAUUUUUUUU…
> Yes this was when I realized I had to mirror it.
> Fools fall in love and make mistakes, guess I'm quite a fool.
> Why it needed to be mirrored?
> Due to the direction of the drum when spinning, we need to go against the spin, otherwise we are out of control.
> Yes I know, I'm out of control in general…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, just have to cut a new rabbet.
> Then some glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Outfeed table are fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square it up and add a backup piece for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a back side to the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I give it a few screws, just to make sure it's sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the lift are glued together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be sure it will run straight, it gets some sides too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More glue and a top with a rabbet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I screw up and in.
> Screw up, because I start drilling without a clamp so the MDF cracks…
> Then screw in the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A really long screw.
> Yes there are blood on the jig… Mine. Nothing serious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got a lift!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to be out of focus, but this should show the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can square it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixating the lift by drilling and leaving the drill in the hole.
> Then glue on the lift top.
> (Here you can see the screwed up MDF).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two screws and glue should do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could not find my threaded inserts (found them after).
> So I used one of these, really should have been in from the other side, but we will fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All this for fixing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, we are getting close now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A top are fitted, need a hole for the drill press to reach the drum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and that terrible threaded thing…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it fixed, the lid will hold it in place.
> I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A toy wheel can make a handle for the bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bang!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and I fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the top can be mounted, I do this with no glue, so it can be opened in case I need that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here from down under.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for pleasure I close the screw holes on the in- and outfeed tables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then fasten the drum to the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping it in place.
> And yes it really works and really well in fact.
> So a happy monkey here, with a smile, isn't that what this is all about?
> 
> Hope can inspire, perhaps even to get more use of your drill press.
> 
> *The best of my thoughts,*
> Mads


I am glad you changed the description to 'Jointer' Mads. I was having a difficult time getting my head around the 'planer' word. A very nice build and a very useful tool. I use my router with my adjustable half fences in the same way as your sanding jointer works. I cold however find use for a sanding 'planer' for the fine dimensioning of wood strips, so I hope you will build and blog one of those in the future. Why use my own brain when I might be able to enlist a bigger better one like yours?


----------



## mafe

*Center jig for drill press, recycled drill chuck*

*Center jig for drill press*
recycled drill chuck.

Here a small recycle project, giving new life to an old drill chuck, from a cordless drill I had trashed some time back.

The jig:
When drilling a hole in the centre of a dowel or other round objects, I always struggle to hit dead centre, so this is a try, to make it more possible.
The jig can also be used to hold a point, so the drill press can be used as primitive lathe, for small turning projects.
(I have a lathe, so I will not use it for that).









The jig mounted on the drill press table.
This is what we are making here.









The drill chuck I had laying around.
This is the type you can salvage from an old cordless drill.
This type has three pins, that I will use.









Some plywood for the base.
A piece that fits the width of the table.









And a couple of extra…









The chunk axel are placed at the middle of the base, tapped on top with a hammer, so the chuck axels pins are marked into the plywood.









Like this.









Drilling holes in the diameter of the pins.









Making a hole that fits the axel, with a Forstner bit..









The caliper is your best friend and yes we all need a big set of Forstners.









Axel are put in.
The plywood pieces to make the support got holes in the diameter of the axel.









Test fitting.









Glue.









Support pieces are mounted.









Finally also screwed in place.









Finally the chuck can come in place.









And the screw that holds it, put in.









Drilling a couple of holes, on each side of the width of the drill press tables mounting rabbets, to make an easy adjustment, when mounting it on the table.









Now we can bring it to the router table.









To make those rabbets.









Bolts for the mount.









Sides grinded off to make them easy removable on my drill press table.









Finally in place!









Ready to drill.









The base was made of an old trashed piece of ply, an other recycle.









When using it:
Lower the drill bit into the base chuck.
Tighten the chuck around it.
Fasten the base to the drill press table.
Loosen the base chuck.
Put the item that needs drilling in the base chuck.
Drill. 
You should be dead center.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, or at least a dead center hole or two, as well as a little recycle.

*Best thoughts,*

MaFe


----------



## DavePolaschek

mafe said:


> *Center jig for drill press, recycled drill chuck*
> 
> *Center jig for drill press*
> recycled drill chuck.
> 
> Here a small recycle project, giving new life to an old drill chuck, from a cordless drill I had trashed some time back.
> 
> The jig:
> When drilling a hole in the centre of a dowel or other round objects, I always struggle to hit dead centre, so this is a try, to make it more possible.
> The jig can also be used to hold a point, so the drill press can be used as primitive lathe, for small turning projects.
> (I have a lathe, so I will not use it for that).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig mounted on the drill press table.
> This is what we are making here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill chuck I had laying around.
> This is the type you can salvage from an old cordless drill.
> This type has three pins, that I will use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some plywood for the base.
> A piece that fits the width of the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a couple of extra…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk axel are placed at the middle of the base, tapped on top with a hammer, so the chuck axels pins are marked into the plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling holes in the diameter of the pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a hole that fits the axel, with a Forstner bit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The caliper is your best friend and yes we all need a big set of Forstners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Axel are put in.
> The plywood pieces to make the support got holes in the diameter of the axel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Support pieces are mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally also screwed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the chuck can come in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the screw that holds it, put in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a couple of holes, on each side of the width of the drill press tables mounting rabbets, to make an easy adjustment, when mounting it on the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can bring it to the router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make those rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bolts for the mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sides grinded off to make them easy removable on my drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base was made of an old trashed piece of ply, an other recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When using it:
> Lower the drill bit into the base chuck.
> Tighten the chuck around it.
> Fasten the base to the drill press table.
> Loosen the base chuck.
> Put the item that needs drilling in the base chuck.
> Drill.
> You should be dead center.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration, or at least a dead center hole or two, as well as a little recycle.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> MaFe


Very nice, Mads! I have both a normal machinist vise and a cross-slide vise I use on my post-drill (hand-powered drill press), but something more automatic for drilling centered holes… I now need to think about this more…


----------



## FrenchGoattoys

mafe said:


> *Center jig for drill press, recycled drill chuck*
> 
> *Center jig for drill press*
> recycled drill chuck.
> 
> Here a small recycle project, giving new life to an old drill chuck, from a cordless drill I had trashed some time back.
> 
> The jig:
> When drilling a hole in the centre of a dowel or other round objects, I always struggle to hit dead centre, so this is a try, to make it more possible.
> The jig can also be used to hold a point, so the drill press can be used as primitive lathe, for small turning projects.
> (I have a lathe, so I will not use it for that).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig mounted on the drill press table.
> This is what we are making here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill chuck I had laying around.
> This is the type you can salvage from an old cordless drill.
> This type has three pins, that I will use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some plywood for the base.
> A piece that fits the width of the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a couple of extra…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk axel are placed at the middle of the base, tapped on top with a hammer, so the chuck axels pins are marked into the plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling holes in the diameter of the pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a hole that fits the axel, with a Forstner bit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The caliper is your best friend and yes we all need a big set of Forstners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Axel are put in.
> The plywood pieces to make the support got holes in the diameter of the axel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Support pieces are mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally also screwed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the chuck can come in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the screw that holds it, put in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a couple of holes, on each side of the width of the drill press tables mounting rabbets, to make an easy adjustment, when mounting it on the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can bring it to the router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make those rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bolts for the mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sides grinded off to make them easy removable on my drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base was made of an old trashed piece of ply, an other recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When using it:
> Lower the drill bit into the base chuck.
> Tighten the chuck around it.
> Fasten the base to the drill press table.
> Loosen the base chuck.
> Put the item that needs drilling in the base chuck.
> Drill.
> You should be dead center.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration, or at least a dead center hole or two, as well as a little recycle.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> MaFe


Interesting. I too struggle with hitting the center of a dowel. Nice idea.


----------



## doubleDD

mafe said:


> *Center jig for drill press, recycled drill chuck*
> 
> *Center jig for drill press*
> recycled drill chuck.
> 
> Here a small recycle project, giving new life to an old drill chuck, from a cordless drill I had trashed some time back.
> 
> The jig:
> When drilling a hole in the centre of a dowel or other round objects, I always struggle to hit dead centre, so this is a try, to make it more possible.
> The jig can also be used to hold a point, so the drill press can be used as primitive lathe, for small turning projects.
> (I have a lathe, so I will not use it for that).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig mounted on the drill press table.
> This is what we are making here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill chuck I had laying around.
> This is the type you can salvage from an old cordless drill.
> This type has three pins, that I will use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some plywood for the base.
> A piece that fits the width of the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a couple of extra…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk axel are placed at the middle of the base, tapped on top with a hammer, so the chuck axels pins are marked into the plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling holes in the diameter of the pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a hole that fits the axel, with a Forstner bit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The caliper is your best friend and yes we all need a big set of Forstners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Axel are put in.
> The plywood pieces to make the support got holes in the diameter of the axel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Support pieces are mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally also screwed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the chuck can come in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the screw that holds it, put in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a couple of holes, on each side of the width of the drill press tables mounting rabbets, to make an easy adjustment, when mounting it on the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can bring it to the router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make those rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bolts for the mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sides grinded off to make them easy removable on my drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base was made of an old trashed piece of ply, an other recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When using it:
> Lower the drill bit into the base chuck.
> Tighten the chuck around it.
> Fasten the base to the drill press table.
> Loosen the base chuck.
> Put the item that needs drilling in the base chuck.
> Drill.
> You should be dead center.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration, or at least a dead center hole or two, as well as a little recycle.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> MaFe


Cool and unique set up Mads. That will get you dead center every time. About the same function and accuracy as a lathe set up.
I'll have to see if I still have a drill chuck laying around.


----------



## lew

mafe said:


> *Center jig for drill press, recycled drill chuck*
> 
> *Center jig for drill press*
> recycled drill chuck.
> 
> Here a small recycle project, giving new life to an old drill chuck, from a cordless drill I had trashed some time back.
> 
> The jig:
> When drilling a hole in the centre of a dowel or other round objects, I always struggle to hit dead centre, so this is a try, to make it more possible.
> The jig can also be used to hold a point, so the drill press can be used as primitive lathe, for small turning projects.
> (I have a lathe, so I will not use it for that).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig mounted on the drill press table.
> This is what we are making here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill chuck I had laying around.
> This is the type you can salvage from an old cordless drill.
> This type has three pins, that I will use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some plywood for the base.
> A piece that fits the width of the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a couple of extra…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk axel are placed at the middle of the base, tapped on top with a hammer, so the chuck axels pins are marked into the plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling holes in the diameter of the pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a hole that fits the axel, with a Forstner bit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The caliper is your best friend and yes we all need a big set of Forstners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Axel are put in.
> The plywood pieces to make the support got holes in the diameter of the axel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Support pieces are mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally also screwed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the chuck can come in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the screw that holds it, put in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a couple of holes, on each side of the width of the drill press tables mounting rabbets, to make an easy adjustment, when mounting it on the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can bring it to the router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make those rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bolts for the mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sides grinded off to make them easy removable on my drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base was made of an old trashed piece of ply, an other recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When using it:
> Lower the drill bit into the base chuck.
> Tighten the chuck around it.
> Fasten the base to the drill press table.
> Loosen the base chuck.
> Put the item that needs drilling in the base chuck.
> Drill.
> You should be dead center.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration, or at least a dead center hole or two, as well as a little recycle.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> MaFe


Thanks, Mads, for the detailed build. This is another one of your designs I need to make!!


----------



## pottz

mafe said:


> *Center jig for drill press, recycled drill chuck*
> 
> *Center jig for drill press*
> recycled drill chuck.
> 
> Here a small recycle project, giving new life to an old drill chuck, from a cordless drill I had trashed some time back.
> 
> The jig:
> When drilling a hole in the centre of a dowel or other round objects, I always struggle to hit dead centre, so this is a try, to make it more possible.
> The jig can also be used to hold a point, so the drill press can be used as primitive lathe, for small turning projects.
> (I have a lathe, so I will not use it for that).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig mounted on the drill press table.
> This is what we are making here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill chuck I had laying around.
> This is the type you can salvage from an old cordless drill.
> This type has three pins, that I will use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some plywood for the base.
> A piece that fits the width of the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a couple of extra…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk axel are placed at the middle of the base, tapped on top with a hammer, so the chuck axels pins are marked into the plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling holes in the diameter of the pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a hole that fits the axel, with a Forstner bit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The caliper is your best friend and yes we all need a big set of Forstners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Axel are put in.
> The plywood pieces to make the support got holes in the diameter of the axel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Support pieces are mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally also screwed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the chuck can come in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the screw that holds it, put in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a couple of holes, on each side of the width of the drill press tables mounting rabbets, to make an easy adjustment, when mounting it on the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can bring it to the router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make those rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bolts for the mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sides grinded off to make them easy removable on my drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base was made of an old trashed piece of ply, an other recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When using it:
> Lower the drill bit into the base chuck.
> Tighten the chuck around it.
> Fasten the base to the drill press table.
> Loosen the base chuck.
> Put the item that needs drilling in the base chuck.
> Drill.
> You should be dead center.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration, or at least a dead center hole or two, as well as a little recycle.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> MaFe


great idea my friend,your always creating the best ways to do things easier.


----------



## woodchucker1

mafe said:


> *Center jig for drill press, recycled drill chuck*
> 
> *Center jig for drill press*
> recycled drill chuck.
> 
> Here a small recycle project, giving new life to an old drill chuck, from a cordless drill I had trashed some time back.
> 
> The jig:
> When drilling a hole in the centre of a dowel or other round objects, I always struggle to hit dead centre, so this is a try, to make it more possible.
> The jig can also be used to hold a point, so the drill press can be used as primitive lathe, for small turning projects.
> (I have a lathe, so I will not use it for that).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig mounted on the drill press table.
> This is what we are making here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill chuck I had laying around.
> This is the type you can salvage from an old cordless drill.
> This type has three pins, that I will use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some plywood for the base.
> A piece that fits the width of the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a couple of extra…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk axel are placed at the middle of the base, tapped on top with a hammer, so the chuck axels pins are marked into the plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling holes in the diameter of the pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a hole that fits the axel, with a Forstner bit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The caliper is your best friend and yes we all need a big set of Forstners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Axel are put in.
> The plywood pieces to make the support got holes in the diameter of the axel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Support pieces are mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally also screwed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the chuck can come in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the screw that holds it, put in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a couple of holes, on each side of the width of the drill press tables mounting rabbets, to make an easy adjustment, when mounting it on the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can bring it to the router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make those rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bolts for the mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sides grinded off to make them easy removable on my drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base was made of an old trashed piece of ply, an other recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When using it:
> Lower the drill bit into the base chuck.
> Tighten the chuck around it.
> Fasten the base to the drill press table.
> Loosen the base chuck.
> Put the item that needs drilling in the base chuck.
> Drill.
> You should be dead center.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration, or at least a dead center hole or two, as well as a little recycle.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> MaFe


You still amaze me with your projects. Thanks. :}


----------



## Davevand

mafe said:


> *Center jig for drill press, recycled drill chuck*
> 
> *Center jig for drill press*
> recycled drill chuck.
> 
> Here a small recycle project, giving new life to an old drill chuck, from a cordless drill I had trashed some time back.
> 
> The jig:
> When drilling a hole in the centre of a dowel or other round objects, I always struggle to hit dead centre, so this is a try, to make it more possible.
> The jig can also be used to hold a point, so the drill press can be used as primitive lathe, for small turning projects.
> (I have a lathe, so I will not use it for that).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig mounted on the drill press table.
> This is what we are making here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill chuck I had laying around.
> This is the type you can salvage from an old cordless drill.
> This type has three pins, that I will use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some plywood for the base.
> A piece that fits the width of the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a couple of extra…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk axel are placed at the middle of the base, tapped on top with a hammer, so the chuck axels pins are marked into the plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling holes in the diameter of the pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a hole that fits the axel, with a Forstner bit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The caliper is your best friend and yes we all need a big set of Forstners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Axel are put in.
> The plywood pieces to make the support got holes in the diameter of the axel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Support pieces are mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally also screwed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the chuck can come in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the screw that holds it, put in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a couple of holes, on each side of the width of the drill press tables mounting rabbets, to make an easy adjustment, when mounting it on the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can bring it to the router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make those rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bolts for the mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sides grinded off to make them easy removable on my drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base was made of an old trashed piece of ply, an other recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When using it:
> Lower the drill bit into the base chuck.
> Tighten the chuck around it.
> Fasten the base to the drill press table.
> Loosen the base chuck.
> Put the item that needs drilling in the base chuck.
> Drill.
> You should be dead center.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration, or at least a dead center hole or two, as well as a little recycle.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> MaFe


When I am drilling holes in wheels, I use the same type of jig with my lathe chuck. It self centers all the wheels from 1"-4" without any changes


----------



## nobuckle

mafe said:


> *Center jig for drill press, recycled drill chuck*
> 
> *Center jig for drill press*
> recycled drill chuck.
> 
> Here a small recycle project, giving new life to an old drill chuck, from a cordless drill I had trashed some time back.
> 
> The jig:
> When drilling a hole in the centre of a dowel or other round objects, I always struggle to hit dead centre, so this is a try, to make it more possible.
> The jig can also be used to hold a point, so the drill press can be used as primitive lathe, for small turning projects.
> (I have a lathe, so I will not use it for that).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig mounted on the drill press table.
> This is what we are making here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill chuck I had laying around.
> This is the type you can salvage from an old cordless drill.
> This type has three pins, that I will use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some plywood for the base.
> A piece that fits the width of the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a couple of extra…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk axel are placed at the middle of the base, tapped on top with a hammer, so the chuck axels pins are marked into the plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling holes in the diameter of the pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a hole that fits the axel, with a Forstner bit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The caliper is your best friend and yes we all need a big set of Forstners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Axel are put in.
> The plywood pieces to make the support got holes in the diameter of the axel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Support pieces are mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally also screwed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the chuck can come in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the screw that holds it, put in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a couple of holes, on each side of the width of the drill press tables mounting rabbets, to make an easy adjustment, when mounting it on the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can bring it to the router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make those rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bolts for the mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sides grinded off to make them easy removable on my drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base was made of an old trashed piece of ply, an other recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When using it:
> Lower the drill bit into the base chuck.
> Tighten the chuck around it.
> Fasten the base to the drill press table.
> Loosen the base chuck.
> Put the item that needs drilling in the base chuck.
> Drill.
> You should be dead center.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration, or at least a dead center hole or two, as well as a little recycle.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> MaFe


Fantastic! Now I'll be looking for every old discarded drill I can find. Great idea Mads. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *Center jig for drill press, recycled drill chuck*
> 
> *Center jig for drill press*
> recycled drill chuck.
> 
> Here a small recycle project, giving new life to an old drill chuck, from a cordless drill I had trashed some time back.
> 
> The jig:
> When drilling a hole in the centre of a dowel or other round objects, I always struggle to hit dead centre, so this is a try, to make it more possible.
> The jig can also be used to hold a point, so the drill press can be used as primitive lathe, for small turning projects.
> (I have a lathe, so I will not use it for that).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig mounted on the drill press table.
> This is what we are making here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill chuck I had laying around.
> This is the type you can salvage from an old cordless drill.
> This type has three pins, that I will use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some plywood for the base.
> A piece that fits the width of the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a couple of extra…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk axel are placed at the middle of the base, tapped on top with a hammer, so the chuck axels pins are marked into the plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling holes in the diameter of the pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a hole that fits the axel, with a Forstner bit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The caliper is your best friend and yes we all need a big set of Forstners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Axel are put in.
> The plywood pieces to make the support got holes in the diameter of the axel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Support pieces are mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally also screwed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the chuck can come in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the screw that holds it, put in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a couple of holes, on each side of the width of the drill press tables mounting rabbets, to make an easy adjustment, when mounting it on the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can bring it to the router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make those rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bolts for the mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sides grinded off to make them easy removable on my drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base was made of an old trashed piece of ply, an other recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When using it:
> Lower the drill bit into the base chuck.
> Tighten the chuck around it.
> Fasten the base to the drill press table.
> Loosen the base chuck.
> Put the item that needs drilling in the base chuck.
> Drill.
> You should be dead center.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration, or at least a dead center hole or two, as well as a little recycle.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> MaFe


Pretty cool, my friend!!!!!!!!! You will be using that a lot…...............Cheers, Jim


----------



## icemanhank

mafe said:


> *Center jig for drill press, recycled drill chuck*
> 
> *Center jig for drill press*
> recycled drill chuck.
> 
> Here a small recycle project, giving new life to an old drill chuck, from a cordless drill I had trashed some time back.
> 
> The jig:
> When drilling a hole in the centre of a dowel or other round objects, I always struggle to hit dead centre, so this is a try, to make it more possible.
> The jig can also be used to hold a point, so the drill press can be used as primitive lathe, for small turning projects.
> (I have a lathe, so I will not use it for that).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig mounted on the drill press table.
> This is what we are making here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill chuck I had laying around.
> This is the type you can salvage from an old cordless drill.
> This type has three pins, that I will use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some plywood for the base.
> A piece that fits the width of the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a couple of extra…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk axel are placed at the middle of the base, tapped on top with a hammer, so the chuck axels pins are marked into the plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling holes in the diameter of the pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a hole that fits the axel, with a Forstner bit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The caliper is your best friend and yes we all need a big set of Forstners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Axel are put in.
> The plywood pieces to make the support got holes in the diameter of the axel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Support pieces are mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally also screwed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the chuck can come in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the screw that holds it, put in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a couple of holes, on each side of the width of the drill press tables mounting rabbets, to make an easy adjustment, when mounting it on the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can bring it to the router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make those rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bolts for the mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sides grinded off to make them easy removable on my drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base was made of an old trashed piece of ply, an other recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When using it:
> Lower the drill bit into the base chuck.
> Tighten the chuck around it.
> Fasten the base to the drill press table.
> Loosen the base chuck.
> Put the item that needs drilling in the base chuck.
> Drill.
> You should be dead center.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration, or at least a dead center hole or two, as well as a little recycle.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> MaFe


Mads; you are an ideas man!


----------



## icemanhank

mafe said:


> *Center jig for drill press, recycled drill chuck*
> 
> *Center jig for drill press*
> recycled drill chuck.
> 
> Here a small recycle project, giving new life to an old drill chuck, from a cordless drill I had trashed some time back.
> 
> The jig:
> When drilling a hole in the centre of a dowel or other round objects, I always struggle to hit dead centre, so this is a try, to make it more possible.
> The jig can also be used to hold a point, so the drill press can be used as primitive lathe, for small turning projects.
> (I have a lathe, so I will not use it for that).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig mounted on the drill press table.
> This is what we are making here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill chuck I had laying around.
> This is the type you can salvage from an old cordless drill.
> This type has three pins, that I will use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some plywood for the base.
> A piece that fits the width of the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a couple of extra…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk axel are placed at the middle of the base, tapped on top with a hammer, so the chuck axels pins are marked into the plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling holes in the diameter of the pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a hole that fits the axel, with a Forstner bit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The caliper is your best friend and yes we all need a big set of Forstners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Axel are put in.
> The plywood pieces to make the support got holes in the diameter of the axel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Support pieces are mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally also screwed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the chuck can come in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the screw that holds it, put in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a couple of holes, on each side of the width of the drill press tables mounting rabbets, to make an easy adjustment, when mounting it on the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can bring it to the router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make those rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bolts for the mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sides grinded off to make them easy removable on my drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base was made of an old trashed piece of ply, an other recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When using it:
> Lower the drill bit into the base chuck.
> Tighten the chuck around it.
> Fasten the base to the drill press table.
> Loosen the base chuck.
> Put the item that needs drilling in the base chuck.
> Drill.
> You should be dead center.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration, or at least a dead center hole or two, as well as a little recycle.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> MaFe


Oops posted twice


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Center jig for drill press, recycled drill chuck*
> 
> *Center jig for drill press*
> recycled drill chuck.
> 
> Here a small recycle project, giving new life to an old drill chuck, from a cordless drill I had trashed some time back.
> 
> The jig:
> When drilling a hole in the centre of a dowel or other round objects, I always struggle to hit dead centre, so this is a try, to make it more possible.
> The jig can also be used to hold a point, so the drill press can be used as primitive lathe, for small turning projects.
> (I have a lathe, so I will not use it for that).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig mounted on the drill press table.
> This is what we are making here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drill chuck I had laying around.
> This is the type you can salvage from an old cordless drill.
> This type has three pins, that I will use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some plywood for the base.
> A piece that fits the width of the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a couple of extra…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chunk axel are placed at the middle of the base, tapped on top with a hammer, so the chuck axels pins are marked into the plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling holes in the diameter of the pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making a hole that fits the axel, with a Forstner bit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The caliper is your best friend and yes we all need a big set of Forstners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Axel are put in.
> The plywood pieces to make the support got holes in the diameter of the axel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Support pieces are mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally also screwed in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the chuck can come in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the screw that holds it, put in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling a couple of holes, on each side of the width of the drill press tables mounting rabbets, to make an easy adjustment, when mounting it on the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can bring it to the router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make those rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bolts for the mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sides grinded off to make them easy removable on my drill press table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally in place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The base was made of an old trashed piece of ply, an other recycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When using it:
> Lower the drill bit into the base chuck.
> Tighten the chuck around it.
> Fasten the base to the drill press table.
> Loosen the base chuck.
> Put the item that needs drilling in the base chuck.
> Drill.
> You should be dead center.
> 
> Hope it can be to some inspiration, or at least a dead center hole or two, as well as a little recycle.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> 
> MaFe


Hi guys,
Good to see you all, thanks.

Dave Polaschek, smiles, I also have both types, this one was just a joyful experiment on doing some recycle and making a useful tool out of it as well. I do love these little projects, where we are playing as we go.

FrenchGoattoys, that is exactly for that purpose I build it, and sometimes I have also needed to drill a hole in the center of a threaded rod and struggled, now it's easy. Thank you.

doubleDD, Thanks buddy. Yes the same can be done on the lathe, but my lathe is not permanently up, so it takes too long to set it up, that was why I made this.

Lew, big smile der Lew, our always growing to do list. Smiles.

Pottz, I'm a playful child in an adult body, that's why. Big smile, thanks.

woodchucker1, A smile with red cheeks thanks.

Davevand, clever, I still have a lathe chunk on my wish list.

Doug, laughs, everyone around you will have to hold on to their drills. Thanks Doug.

Jim J, It's already been in use a few time, even for some simple lathe work the other day. Thanks Jim.

icemanhank - icemanhank, I better go twice then, laughs. Thanks buddy.

A good thought to you all,
Mads


----------

