# Powr-Kraft Radial Arm Saw



## DustyNewt (Oct 29, 2007)

I recently inherited a Monkey Ward's Powr-Kraft model TPC-2610A radial arm saw from 1966. I have the manual and parts list and the machine looks like it was hardly ever used. Trouble is, I can't turn the darn thing on because it's missing the key in the top of the trigger handle that has to be depressed to run. I would hate to rig something and mess up the "originality" of the saw's condition, but if I can't find the part soon, I will. I would also like to find the adapters for the auxiliary 3450rpm and 20,000rpm shaper/router spindles. If anyone has any ideas about this, please let me know.


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## pofarm (Jan 23, 2008)

You can make a key for it. When I bought mine it had a home made key in it. It's not exactly right, but it works. Maybe someone has an original they can measure and let you know how to make. If not, let me know and I'll get measurements from mine for you. My email addy is pofarm @ mchsi.com (remove the spaces. I put them in to keep bots from finding my addy.)


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## DustyNewt (Oct 29, 2007)

Pofarm,
Thanks for the input. I did just figure out how to make one and it works fine. The saw is in such good condition that I would like to eventually find the replacement part. Have you ever used the auxilary spindles for routing or shaping? I would like to know if it is worth the trouble of finding the parts.


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## rikkor (Oct 17, 2007)

I had one of these from a similar vintage. Unfortunately it froze up while in storage for a couple of years.


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## pofarm (Jan 23, 2008)

I just got mine a little over a week ago. Haven't even had a chance to use it yet. I would think it would do great with the router attachment on that 20,000 rpm spindle. The guy who I bought it from made a new table for it, but I'm going to have to redo it. He made a one piece top and screwed the fence to it instead of clamping the fence between two pieces. 
I am also looking for the anti-kickback pawl for mine, if anyone has one to get rid of.


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## Buckyhoppy (Feb 24, 2008)

Rikkor,
Interested in selling any parts?


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## KarlS (Feb 15, 2008)

I have the same saw in a slightly newer model. It was my dad's and we lost the kay as well. I took the handle apart that housed the trigger and found I could disable the need for the key. If that doesn't work, you can search for Powr-Kraft and Parts on the web and order a new trigger that does not use the key. I did that before taking the handle apart and finding I didn't need to.


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## kurtspir (Mar 25, 2008)

Hi, I work in a museum boatshop and found this model in our milling room. Apparently it was only used a few times before being donated to our shop. I'm wondering if anyone knows how to get the manual for it, i wasn't able to find the company on the internet. If you know of any way to get the manual, it would be greatly appreciated. thanks!

kurt


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## Tesk (Mar 25, 2008)

This is my first post, so I do not know the culture of this forum to know if is rude to ask this question or not. If it it, I apologize and will repost as a new question:

I bought a PowerKraft 10" radial arm saw from a guy recently and I thought it was fine when we ran it at his place but now there seems to be a problem that I didn't know about and am wondering if it is repairable and if so, how I might go about it.

The problem is that the blade stops turning when it hits the wood i am working on unless I go really slowly. A 10" blade should be able to go through a 2×4 much faster than this is. But when the blade stops, something inside still appears to be turning. I might have to go back and repeat this so I can describe it better.

Any help would be appreciated.


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## neil (Apr 17, 2008)

kurt

OLD WOOD-WORKING MACHINES at owwm.com has manuals for this in PDF you can download.

neil


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## neil (Apr 17, 2008)

Tesk

There is a clutch in the motor housing that can be adjusted. The manual shows exploded views and tells how to adjust. You can go to OLD WOOD-WORKING TOOLS at owwm.com to view/download the manual in PDF.


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## bobdurnell (Sep 24, 2007)

Boy you guys can bring back memories. Dustynewt, I checked the owwm.com site before making this post. That RAS was the one I used to demonstrate in the plastic cage at a Montgomery Wards store in Norwalk Ca. back in 1972. Taught a class in its use there too. Had to use a real good carbide blade then and I added an auxillary switch on the top of the over arm to make it easier to turn on and off when using the router shaft. I'm glad to hear that they are still around.


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## earlh (Aug 16, 2008)

dustynewt

I have the little red plastic key that goes in the trigger handle if you or anyone else wants it. I will probably just throw it away otherwise. You can email me directly at [email protected]


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## DustyNewt (Oct 29, 2007)

Thanks Earl, but I have already made a key that works fine. Maybe someone else can use it.


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

You could set up a separate power switch in an easy to reach place. Would help a lot with safety.


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## DustyNewt (Oct 29, 2007)

I just scanned the manual for this saw (plus some extra bits my dad had saved) and I think I succeeded in creating the pdf files. Large files though. I am new at this stuff.

If anyone is interested send me a message.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

I have been told that a company called Toolkraft made your saw. It is no longer in business but the following website indicates that some parts are still available.

My first saw was a well used Toolkraft and it was a heavy sucker but did a good job as such. When I started making furniture and stuff that required more accuracy I bought a TS but kept the RAS around for cross cutting narrow boards. Another reason I bought a TS was that ripping using a RAS just looked like a disaster ready to happen.

http://www.toolkraft.com

Good luck


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## KAA (Nov 10, 2008)

I inherited from my father a Wards Power-Kraft 10" radial arm saw without a manual or parts list. Could someone please copy theirs and sell the copy to me?

KAA


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## Mullet (Dec 27, 2008)

I am in need of a process to grease the gears on the Power-Kraft TPC-2610A Radial Arm Saw. My manual has no instructions for this process.

If you have the instructions please send or can get me a link as to how I can accomplish this task. I would really appreciate this.

Thank You,

Mullet


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## Mullet (Dec 27, 2008)

I noticed that some of the bloggers were looking for a trigger switch. I have a second switch I purchased years ago. It looks to be in excellent condition. If someone is in need of the switch please let me know.

Mullet


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## bovinescatoligist (Jan 8, 2009)

Hey Mullet, your a godsend!The switch on my tpc2610c just died on me. If you still have one ,please let me know. Thanks.


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## lotsawops (Jan 11, 2009)

Anyone looking for parts for old Powr Kraft equipment should check with Deco Enterprises. They bought a lot of the Wards inventory when the company failed. I have an old TPC 2296 that I inherited and found some of what I needed from them. I haven't checked to see if they are still around for the last 5 years or so but it's worth a try. 
Deco Ent
8122 Gravois
St. Louis MO.63123
314-353-4900


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## Mullet (Dec 27, 2008)

Thanks for the additional info lotsawops; you can also get parts for the Power-Kraft equipment from TooKraft. I have called them and they have the power switch, manuals, and other parts for the 2610 Series RAS.

Toolkraft Parts
P.O. Box 80777
Springfield, MA 01138-0777
Tel: 413-737-7331
[email protected]

http://www.toolkraft.com/index.htm

The Mullet


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## astonman (Feb 1, 2009)

Brother-in-law recently gave me a Montgomery Ward Powr-Kraft model TPC-2610B radial arm saw. The motor ran and sounded good so I set about cleaning it up. I downloaded the owners manual from www.owwm.com. It was straightforward to take apart except the column was frozen to the base through corrosion. The column tube plug was hard to get out, but when I removed the plug I could not extract the column tube key with pliers. So I drilled into the key and tapped it to fit a small bolt. After soaking with WD-40 I extracted it with a crow bar. After removing the rust, putting it back together, lubricating where needed, all the motions work well. Now to fit a new wooden table.

What I like about the machine is that it will crosscut a 2 by 14 inch board in one motion, whereas my miter saws will only cut an 8" wide 2 x.


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## ashton (Sep 19, 2009)

Hello Everyone, New to LJ and I am a novice to wood working via the need to make wooden frames for my oil paintings but I am slowly building up tools. Recently I picked up a Wards Powr-Kraft TPC-2610A 10" radial arm saw and thanks to neil's reply to kurt I downloaded a Powr-Kraft TPC-2610B 10"radial arm saw manual. Does anyone know the difference between the A and B models?


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## starvnarvn (Nov 1, 2009)

I have a Wards Powr-Kraft TPC-2610B RAS. I need the trigger switch and it sounds like you guys have that solved for me. I will be checking out your suggestions. Someone said there is a clutch adjustment. I can't seem to find that in my manual. Any help there? I also have the adapters for the spindles which I do not use since I have a shaper and router table. These adapters and additional spindle work great since I have used them in the past. Anyone interested?


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## astonman (Feb 1, 2009)

I am interested in your adapters and spindles. E-mail me your price, etc. to [email protected]


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## wick (Nov 6, 2009)

hi I'm new here--i have an old wards power kraft table saw model #YWL 4668, 1 hp, 3450rpm capacitor ball bearing motor-still works needs belts i was gonna unload it at a yard sale…is this thing worth salvaging if i can get new belts..that could be a big if…


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## jpaul (Nov 6, 2009)

I have a Wards 2610 RAS and would like to know if anyone has any info on adjusting the slip clutch or lubing the gears. Great product, I purchased the 1st on in 1970 and built presentresidence with it, and lots of work since. I have the owners manual and it does not address either of these topics.


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## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Go to owwm.com and list a wanted ad in the BOYD section for the parts you are looking for. They will most likely be available from one of the other members there. I have found and sold many older parts there for saws and equipment no longer available.


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## Laurie (Nov 22, 2009)

manual for Wards Power Kraft TCP2610 http://www.owwm.com/pubs/657/2117.pdf
Parts for it: http://www.toolkraft.com/index.htm
I just bought mine on craigslist for $100. I thought I stole it but the guy admitted after he would have taken less.
I am super excited. New radial arm saws start at $3500.


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## Laurie (Nov 22, 2009)

I just bought one on Craig's lit. I also had the trigger switch issue. for now I just attached a power strip to the side of it and I turn the power strip off and on to start it. This was much safer than trying to unplug it all the time.


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## Laurie (Nov 22, 2009)

OK now I have a different problem. I cannot raise and lower it. I therefore cannot make dados or use the bevel feature.
With your help, I have the owner's manual online http://www.owwm.com/pubs/657/2117.pdf 
• Page 3, Figure 7 will not rotate to raise or lower more than 1/32" 
• Page 7, Part AK - I think is broken?
Is it functioning properly and am I supposed to put a smaller blade?? That does not make sense to me.
Does anyone else have this problem? Am I doing something wrong? If I you can help me figure this out. I will be very happy! Thanks,


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## Laurie (Nov 22, 2009)

Wards Power Kraft TCP2610A model owner's manual http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/PowrKraft/1966-TPC2610A.pdf ( I have this one)

Wards Power Kraft TCP2610B model Owner's manual http://www.owwm.com/pubs/657/2117.pdf

As far as my last post. It sounds like exactly what "astonman" went through. I got the plug out of the back. I just ordered a "Grab-it" screw extractor (http://www.asseenontv.com/prod-pages/progrbit_ontv.html?gid=TOOL_OUTDOOR_PET) I think this will work to get the key out. I hope. I don't have a tapping kit.


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## kahuna (Jan 16, 2010)

I'm new here and just bought my 2610 for $15. It does need a sw, but I found a link here to cover that. I read 3 different models (A,B, & E) directions and there doesn't seem to be a clutch. If you have a power loss, they advise to check the brushes. If they are excessively worn, you'll lose power.


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## kahuna (Jan 16, 2010)

If anyone needs directions for TPC2610E, I can email them


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## Laurie (Nov 22, 2009)

Got the key out. I tapped it, which broke it a little but I was then able to grab the key with needle nose pliers. I took the whole thing apart. Cleaned 42 years worth of compacted sawdust. Good as new. I love it!


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## johnnybj (Jan 19, 2010)

Went through a tool room that I thought was empty in a house I bought 13 years ago and found a TCP 2610B on an old delapidated wooden stand. Figured I would plug it in and see if it would run. It seemed to run great. Just built a new frame stand for it and moved it into my workshop.

Read all the posts on the site and was able to download the manual. Information on the site was extreamly helpfull in geting information on the unit. Will allign the blade in the next few days and see how it cuts. Seems to be a little light on power, but it might be the blade allignment.

Thanks to all on the site for the usefull information.

Johnnybj


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## FurryNewYorker (Sep 13, 2010)

I just saw this thread. I hope someone is still monitoring. Looks like it's been dormant for about a year. 

I inherited a TCP2610 from my uncle who, I'm guessing, bought it new in the 1960s. The tool works well and I've used it extensively. I have a couple of questions though and maybe one of you can help me:

1. With the yoke indexed for either cross-cutting or ripping, there is a very small amount of play in the yoke before I apply the lock. That is, I can rotate the yoke a fraction of a degree once the index is in position. Is this to be expected? If not, is there a known way to fix it? Again, the yoke lock does work, it's just that I can lock the yoke in one of two very slightly different angles.

2. I have the rubber sanding drum and a sanding belt (???) to go on it. However, I don't see how the belt is supposed to be secured to the drum. It just slides over the drum but does not adhere. Is there another piece, perhaps another layer to go between the belt and the drum, that I'm missing?


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## Laurie (Nov 22, 2009)

Hi Furry, thanks for your question #1. I have the same issue. Seems to be a lot of play when it is in locked position for ripping. I took apart the entire arm. From what I can see it was intended to have some adjustment. From what I have seen, the small adjustment dial at the head of the arm, simply does not work as it was intended. When I took mine apart, it looked like the previous owner tried to make a fix for this…. it did not work. I think it is poor design. simple as that. I hope I am wrong. Looking forward to more feedback on this issue.


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## FurryNewYorker (Sep 13, 2010)

Hi Laurie,

Thanks for your reply. I guess someone is still paying attention. 

The problem I'm having doesn't appear to be with the arm but with the yoke itself, unless I'm getting the terminology mixed up. That is, if I release the yoke lock but keep the index in place, the yoke can rotate *very* slightly relative to the carriage.

I'm glad to know that others are using this saw. I love it quite honestly!

FNY


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## Laurie (Nov 22, 2009)

I see, their is a key in the back of the yolk. If you can remove this, then you will be able to take the yolk apart. You can find the schematics for this saw as noted on my previous posts. They are excellently detailed. I took my yolk apart, i had to use a tapping screw to get at it. You might try a strong magnet to pull it out. When I tapped it, I broke it. - That did allow me to pull it our with needle nose pliers. Your issue may be with your key, or in the yolk.
I'm very happy with my saw too. I have enjoyed it as a project. I have been glad to find this forum.
Best to you….


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## iowaboy (Sep 30, 2010)

Hi to Laurie & Fuzzy NY: I too just found this forum and glad to see it still has some life in it. I own a 2610C RAS, probably from the late 60's or very early 70". So far, knock on wood, it works great. I have the manual if anyone needs a copy, let me know. The only thing I don't have, and really, really want, is the spindle adapter for the top (20,000 rpm) spindle. I want to do some routing and no collet attachment. Anybody out there got a spare??? The thread is a common 20 threads per inch, but the shaft diameter is 15/32", which is strange to say the least. I would sure appreciate any leads this forum can give me. Waiting with fingers crossed. tom in Vt.


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## johnnybj (Jan 19, 2010)

Past posts on my TCP2610B have been helpful as well as the past posts on similar models. Have an issue with what appears to be a slipping cluch while under power. If I cut slowly I can cut, but when power is required there is slippage within the unit housing. I assume it's a cluch of some sort with in the unit. Any suggestions on how to make adjustments to get all the power to the blade assembly?

johnnybj


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## Mullet (Dec 27, 2008)

Hello Johnnybj,

I have some of the same issues with my 2610, but have found that when I leveled my table top (within very small tolereances) and made sure I was using the proper blades for the cut then I wasn't having hardly any problems with the blade sticking or the clutch giving way. I am sure you have checked these things but thought I would respond anyway.

Good Luck with the Saw, I love it and find it to be very convienent for most projects.

The Mullet


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## johnnybj (Jan 19, 2010)

Hello the mullet,

I leveled the table some years ago and probably should level it again. It's been some time and it is due for a reallignment. Will let you know if it helps.

Thanks gain,

johnnybj


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## optimusprime (Oct 31, 2010)

just got the 2610A off of craigslist and was wondering if anyone knew how to get the spindle adapters. just like iowaboy i am interested in using the router features. let me know.


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## drsongs (Feb 20, 2011)

Just got a Wards Powr Kraft TCP2610 and I need to build a new table top for it but right now my problem is I can't get the arm to go up or down. I checked the lock and even pulled it out so I know it's not that. The part of the handle that sticks out to crank it up or down is broke but I should be able to grab it and turn it enough to move it shouldn't I ? I can actually get a 1/4 to 1/2 turn so the rod turns and the gears are engaged but then it just locks up and it won't go up or down. It just feels like it's frozen. I'm afraid like astonman I'm going to have to take it apart or is there something I'm missing? Thanks for any help!!


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## Laurie (Nov 22, 2009)

drsongs…. you're most likely going to have to take it apart. Mine was fused together with 40 yrs worth of compacted sawdust.


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## drsongs (Feb 20, 2011)

So I took it apart. I took the key out - took all the stuff off the top of the shaft - used oil of wintergreen (my dad swears by this stuff for loosening rusty parts - he learned about it from a guy in his tractor club) I tried using my rubber hammer on the casing hitting down and hitting sideways in a twisting motion to try and break it loose, nothing, except I don't have a rubber hammer anymore - turned it upside down with the shaft on a block of wood, put another block on the casing and hit it with a sledge hammer several times until the wood said no more and the thing didn't move even the tiniest bit! 
So now I've sprayed it with WD40 and let it sit overnight I just don't think the WD will be able to work its way down in to make any difference. My next thought is… I work at a car dealership and maybe they have a hydraulic press or puller of some kind that we can use to free this thing. I'm just afraid if it's that stuck am I going to break the casing instead. The other thing I heard was the best for loosening parts (also from the tractor club) was acetone & transmission fluid 50/50. Maybe I'll have to soak it in a bucket of that - I don't know.


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

I'm not familiar with the saw but I do know the Craftsman RAS. Is your column binding? Craftsman has a series of bolts on the column housing to secure the movable tube. I would try loosening those (not removing) until I could free the column. While WD40 is fine for a lot of things, I would opt for Liquid Wrench or something similar.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

I'm a BIG fan of "PB Blaster" for penetrating oil.

Was a godsend, when I recently took apart my 1956 RAS motor !


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## drsongs (Feb 20, 2011)

Thank you all for the replies. So I took it to work removed the arm put it in the hydraulic press and BAM pushed it right out. I'm pretty sure that was the only way it was coming out. Now the chore of cleaning it up and putting all back together. Then of coarse a new table top, leveling, squaring the blade, etc. etc. 
I'll let you know the results when I'm done.


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

the fact that you needed the hydraulic press to free it certainly explains why the crank was broken!

still think a bit of penetrating oil would have worked (maybe with a bit of heat from a torch and a little time). that stuff is amazing.


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## drsongs (Feb 20, 2011)

LOL teejk - ya that's what I was thinking! I'm hoping I can find a crank somewhere that will work. The locking handle on the end of the arm is broken on one side as well - not sure how I'm going to fix that one. I can still make it work but it would be nice to fix it somehow. Don't know if JB weld will do it or not.


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

dr…again I'm not familiar with the PwrKraft but would be willing to bet that Craftsman parts will work (MW and Sears were pretty much the same outfits when your saw was made). the crank handle seems simple enough (you probably have a flat spot on the shaft that accomodates the allen screw in the handle). locking handle I can't say since I've never had to tear down that far to see how it works.


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## drsongs (Feb 20, 2011)

teejk - actually there is a flat spot and the allen screw is on the opposite side I'm just going to have to be on the lookout to see if I can find something. I'm hoping maybe I can find something at the local restore.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

For the future … for what it's worth … I sprayed PB Blaster on ANY fastener that I was even thinking about turning, or removing, and let it sit for a few minutes before I touched it.

40-50 yrs-in some cases, without being moved-is a sure recipe for snapping the smaller, and impossible to replace, fasteners, set screws, keys, etc.

When I DID finally set about to turn the fasteners, before I TURNED, I put the driver in place, and gave it a sharp RAP with a dead blow hammer.

NOTHING stuck on me. The most difficult customer was the king bolt, but only because I didn't have the (proper) "drag link socket."

In other words … I'd recommend using the penetrating oil … first … whether you think you have to or not 

My $0.02. YMMV =)


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

drsongs:

interestingly, many of the *generic* type parts for RASs DO seem to be available through Sears parts.

This was the page I found. Again: few to no TRULY RAS-specific parts, but … some of the more common things. Easy to look through their site-they include parts diagrams, well referenced to part #s, as they list them:

LINK

So … you may want to check their site for parts for YOUR saw, too. Might get lucky


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## delo (Feb 24, 2011)

I just recieved an old power hacksaw Montgomery Wards Wards Power Kraft Model 84Z407RA if anyone has info, manuel, or ad on this I would Very much appreciate this, the motor was made by Jack & Heintz Precision Industries Inc, From 1940 to 1961 when they merged with Siegler corp.


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## drsongs (Feb 20, 2011)

Where I'm at with my RAS posted here:
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/24731#reply-259590


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## kahuna (Jan 16, 2010)

If anyone need directions and parts list for all series of TPC-2610 RAS I have them along with an outlet for a few of the common problem parts. e-mail is [email protected]


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## drsongs (Feb 20, 2011)

You can see the progress of my first project here: http://lumberjocks.com/drsongs/blog/21648


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## drsongs (Feb 20, 2011)

See my Column Crank fix here: http://lumberjocks.com/drsongs/blog/21740


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## drsongs (Feb 20, 2011)

Ward's Powr-Kraft model TPC-2610:
So I had the arm lock handle welded and it didn't hold. So I'm asking if anyone has one or knows where I can get one.


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## ezekiel (Jul 25, 2011)

I have the exact mongomery ward power kraft radial arm saw model t.p.c. 2610c.excellent working condition but no attachments. im lookiong to sell but im in toledo,ohio let me know if your close or interested.
thanks for your time;greg my email is [email protected]


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## TomGet (Aug 22, 2011)

Ezekiel, I'm not near Ohio, so I probably wouldn't be interested in the entire RAS. But, if you can't find a buyer and are interested in selling parts, I'm looking for some. Based on some rather old posts, I tried toolkraft, but they say they no longer have parts for these saws. I've also seen mention of Deco Enterprises and will try them as well. But, if no luck there, I'm left with finding someone willing to sell parts, or I'll have to find another solution.

What I'm looking for (and perhaps others have ideas here) are the Column Tube plug, spring, and key. Someone removed these in a move before I picked this up, and now they've missing. And, without these, the column swings freely. And if you have any of the parts for the auxiliary spindles, I'd be interested in those, as well.


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## Laramie (Sep 12, 2011)

Subject: Wards TCP 2610B Radial Arm Saw..

Any advice on the clutch for this saw?? I have two of them (yeah!) and had to swap out motor unit to get the best clutch action. Still….clutch slips under minor load. Can I adjust?? Clean?


> Get new clutch discs


Pat


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## melly (Mar 13, 2012)

We also have this TPC-2610A. We are wondering how to rotate the blade to cut different angles. Can anyone help a girl out.  Thanks Melissa


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## drsongs (Feb 20, 2011)

Hi Melissa,

When you say rotate the blade what exactly do you mean? Do you actually mean the blade or do you mean the arm? See the attached pictures for reference. When rotating the blade you'll need to raise the arm to make room for the blade to swivel without running into the table top. Once you get your angle you will drop it down again. You need to make sure the locking bolt at the back is loose before you can raise and lower the arm. Tighten it back up when you have the height you want. To rotate the arm the pic will explain.

Hope this helps.


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## Cobijones (Mar 22, 2012)

I removed the chuck from a porter cable router and it fits perfectly on the 20,000 rpm arbor. I will try it out tonight and let you all know how it works but this gives me the option of 1/4 or 1/2 in router bits as well as 1/2 in arbors for shaper cutters. As for the 3500rpm arbor any drill chuck will fit.


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## BIK (Mar 31, 2012)

I have a Power-Kraft TRT-2313 RAS. Does anyone know where I can find a manual? www.owwm.com doesn't have it. The casing for the bevel latch pin is broken, if that's the right name for the part. Without the manual I can't identify it with the correct terminology or part number.


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## chucklane (Jul 25, 2013)

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2981


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

> I recently inherited a Monkey Ward s Powr-Kraft model TPC-2610A radial arm saw from 1966. I have the manual and parts list and the machine looks like it was hardly ever used. Trouble is, I can t turn the darn thing on because it s missing the key in the top of the trigger handle that has to be depressed to run. I would hate to rig something and mess up the "originality" of the saw s condition, but if I can t find the part soon, I will. I would also like to find the adapters for the auxiliary 3450rpm and 20,000rpm shaper/router spindles. If anyone has any ideas about this, please let me know.
> 
> - DustyNewt


Your saw can be found here: http://www.vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=35779


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