# Misc. Shop Stuff



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*

EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty

Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…










Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.

Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.



















So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.










With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'

Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.




























It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.










Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


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## Dal300

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


Wow, I wonder why I've been using my pocket knife for so many years when there was this doo-dad!

Cool Tool!


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## racerglen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


Smitty, impertinant question..
Is it a Stanley ?

;-)


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


It doesn't fit in the pocket, so that is a drawback.  I typically use a drywall knive to sharpen when out I'm out and about, but I'm not very good at that either although I get by.

You clearly need this, Dallas, and if you ever run across one, it's likely the seller won't know what it is. Which is fun!


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## Bertha

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


I want one bad.


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## Dal300

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


Yup Smitty, I'm a sucker for tools. It's getting so bad I let my wife sell off about 30 old sawsets that were in a box I hadn't looked at in years.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


Dallas - Holy crap, 30 sawsets?? I hope I don't accumulte that number of saws! You ' da Man! 

Al, it makes me want to use more pencils! <grin>


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## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


Now that is a cool tool! The character it has is wonderful. Another great save and refurbish. Thanks for sharing Smitty.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


i've heard of them, but never really seen one. Cool find.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


Thanks, Super! The only thing refurb'd, to the casual observer, is the edge of the iron. The backside and frog work is invisible. That said, I hesitated before flattening the frog, but then decided 'heck, it's mine, I'll do what I want because it ain't for sale…' Not like it's a museum piece, right? And I want full contact of iron to frog.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


Don, maybe there's one waiting for you to find in Ohio… You can do it!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


Glen - if I can find a Stanley iron to fit, it will be!


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


cool do-da-dingy-thing or as we say dinge-not (long o) 
thanks for sharing how it supose to work … 
never seen them before but wuold be great to have one in the toolbox 
on a worksite out of shop instead of using the stanley knife all the time as everyone ells does 

Dennis


----------



## a1Jim

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


Sharpe


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


Dennis - I bet you could make one… ;-)


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


Love it!
It makes me smile.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


ha ha not a chance without my old old garageshop for iron work and car repair 
but thanks for the confidence 

Smitty did you ever made the second blog about the motorriced workcenter 
or are we still on holding the breath

Dennis


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


Smitty, if I had seen that I would have bought it too. Have you considered the possibility that it isn't a pencil sharpener? Patrick Leach might have made it up? Maybe he was sitting there one day, picked up a funny shaped object and thought, "How the hell am I going to shift this? I know, I'll tell the tool junkies its a pencil sharpener" You never know. I mean, it just seems total overkill, when you can use a pocket knife and get better results. 

I love old tools like this though because they come from a time when people were patenting the most ridiculous inventions and they're just so damn cool even if they don't work particularly well. So many inventions were not really thought through properly were they. 

Thanks for sharing it though. V. cool.


----------



## bent

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


i'd be afraid of catching an arm on it when it's mounted to a workbench.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


A second data point... My exact sharpener is on the site, down a ways….

If it were a ribbon cutter, it could feed between the cuttin iron and base. Bet the ribbbon would have to br re-inserted for each cut. Bean cutter just seems silly. . But way cool!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


Bent- this one is clamped to a shelf in back of the bench so I wont do just that.


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


What a great site that is Smitty. I would love to own the first two. Well done for finding that.

When I saw it at first, I asked myself what else it could be if it wasn't a pencil sharpener and I wondered whether it was a device used by florists, to pull ribbon across to make it curl.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


Cool sharpener Smitty, I like all the ornamentation on it.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


until i find one like yours.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


^


----------



## roboturn

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


That's incredible, and probably over 100 years old! In the vein of…."What's old is new again", please search for the video by Adam Savage, reviewing a circle marking jig called the Iris. The company that makes it also sends him a novel little actual PENCIL PLANE called the Hovel…...and I want one BAD! Perhaps I will search the rest of my natural life for an example of the antique one that I did not know existed before seeing your entry…..thanks….lol!


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## roboturn

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


this is an attempt to post the link to the Youtube video by Adam Savage re: the Iris and the Hovel:

Nope, could not do it, but search for the video entitled:

Adam Savage's Favorite Tools: Awesome Circle Drawing Tools!

Hope it works…enjoy!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This, My Friends, Is a Pencil Sharpener!*
> 
> EDIT: Resurrected from Photo(scum)Bucket Hell, Feb 2018. Smitty
> 
> Picked this up at an estate sale, and only knew what it was because P. Leach had one in a Tool List some months ago. Yeah, I wanted the one he had, but just couldn't pull the trigger. This one was more affordable…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider this style of sharpening an evolutionary dead end. At the time this was available, the other prevalent style of sharpeners were thimble-like devices with wings, that were turned. This is mounted to the edge of a table and the pencil is drawn across the iron. Not this one, though, 'cause the iron is jagged and quite dull. So out came the DMTs.
> 
> Old habits die hard; I wanted a flat back to the iron and that wasn't as easy done as said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I moved the stone to the edge of my bench hook to get better alignment of thumb and fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the back honed and flat all the way in, up to about 1/4" from the edge, all was right with the world. I'm confident the iron will not get more use than that in several lifetimes… I held the iron very low to the DMT to get a primary bevel on the face of the iron, the did just a bit of polishing with strop as final cleanup. There was lots of back and forth at this point, and I didn't take pictures. I did stop before getting it to my best level of sharpening… too small to hold, and it's only sharpening pencils, for goodness sake. That, and I'm certain someone will run their thumb across the blade to 'see if it's sharp…'
> 
> Anyway, another old habit. I simply had to flatten the 'frog' before setting the iron in place and giving it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll take some practice, like all good toolwork, but not bad for a shop pencil! Okay, it's pretty bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the new toy! Thanks for looking.


I'll check it out! In the meantime, it's still here!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*

This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).























































It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.

Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.

Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


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## alba

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
> 
> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


What a treasure.

jamie


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## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
> 
> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


Beautiful.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## toeachhisown (Eddie)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
> 
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> 
> 
> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
> 
> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


Smitty_Cabinetshop
if only that table could talk ,what tell it would have


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
> 
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> 
> 
> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
> 
> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


What is the diameter of that screw Smitty? Sweet bench, I love antiqe benches. Interesting that it has a seperate nut, not a taped end cap.


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## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
> 
> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


Awesome pics Smitty. That's a beauty.


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## Dennisgrosen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
> 
> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


that bench look just like my old bench though alot better build than mine 
compared with your fathers mine look like its falling apart even after the restoring 
yes those vices can real make a good squize 
its amazing how much the wooden tread can hold up to without being destroyd

wuold like to see a picture of the hole bench 
has it the shouldervice too

Dennis


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
> 
> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


The screw D is at least (likely?) an inch and a half… And know y'all have seen this bench before. It was in my shop before I moved it. Lots of wood vise discussions here on LJs so I've added these pictures to help the cause! 

Here it is in the shop last year or so.


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## Bertha

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
> 
> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


Smitty, you're a Godsend. My worries are now over. I'll just simply copy this one, the best I can. It'll have the two effects I'm looking for: 1) to build a traditional bench and 2) to honor a well worn bench. Both pursuits of the highest order, in my opinion. I am forever grateful.


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## Bertha

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
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> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.












There's so much awesomeness in Smitty's shop picture above, I don't know where to start.


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## MShort

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
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> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


Thanks for posting the pics. They are great.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
> 
> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


Al, let me know if you need details, and I'll get what I can. I could do somwe tracings and aend to you as well. Glad to help!


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## Dennisgrosen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
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> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


thanks for the update Smitty 
I can see mine is different from yous since mine is a nordic/german benchtype 
with shoulderwice too

Dennis


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
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> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


Al, at this point you have the materials for two benches. he he. You could use the grizzly tops for this style bench, maybe use the Fir for the legs, you got the screws on order, sounds like your set.


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## alba

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
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> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


*Smitty*

I hope the drums are still in the shop? 

Jamie


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## Bertha

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
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> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


I like the way you think, Mauricio. If I had the shop space, I'd build the whole thing out of fir and use the grizzly maple for assembly tables. I don't have that kind of room. They're not kitchen worthy but they might be like…guest bathroom worthy(?). I mean, no offense Grizzly, they're sold as workbench tops (end-to-end fingers, etc.). But they're thick and they're pretty for shop fodder. If I build the whole thing out of fir, there's a lot worse things in the world than having those slabs. They don't take up too much room against the wall and they haven't moved a muscle since they've been acclimating. I'm at a crossroads, as are all bench builders. At least I've got a reference for a wood-screw tail (thank you, Smit). That seriously saves me. I've got enough wood to build a bench and the screws on the way. The rest is up to me if I can get my $t straight.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
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> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


Jamie, an emphatic Yes to your question. I still play them, too.


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## SamuelP

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
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> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


That vise, the TWO mitre boxes, the drum set set up next to the saw,the work bench itself, and finaly the empty bottle of rolling rock? Next to the chiropractic sign all add up to AWESOMENESS!!!!!
Thank you for sharing SMITTY…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


Man, it's like a Where's Waldo in that pic


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## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
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> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


Smitty I love this. This is right down my alley. Thanks for the closeups.


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## alba

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
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> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


*Al*

I'm stuck with my slab ready and a kitchen & shower

room to fit

I need that bench

*Smitty*

I could use the one at your Dads 

jamie


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## Bertha

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
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> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


I've been lurking in your thread, Jamie. We BOTH need to get our benches on four feet.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
> 
> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


^ Lysdexic needs legs, too. All these benchtops need closure…


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## alba

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
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> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


I've got my legs ready

Not sure whether to do a double tenon

or the dovetail & tenon

As it will be covered in leather I wonder about

the benefits of the dovetail if any?


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## Bertha

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Traditional Cabinetmaker's Tail Vise*
> 
> This bench is at my dad's shop in a nearby town, decided it would get more use there than next to mine. He's not the kinda guy to use it, though, oh well. In the meantime, if you're looking at adding a tail to your bench build, thought it'd be worthwhile to post a few pictures showing the detail of the build way back when (bench is about a hundred years old, would have to guess).
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It actually isn't as weird when you see the nits and grits.
> 
> Can't show you inside the actual tail; I glued that up as part of the repairs I had to make when I got the bench a couple years ago. That's also why a board underneath looks new: The orig was split, so I fashioned a replacement then waxed everything up before putting it all together.
> 
> Hope someone finds this useful in some way. And I'm willing to get additional pics if it'll help, just let me know.


I think the dovetail looks cool, but it's kind of everywhere. I thought about doing a tenon and round tenon just to be weird. Or even one gigantic dovetail. My legs are going to be so big though (to accommodate the thick wooden legvise screw), that I'll have to choose carefully.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Shop Fan Club!*

Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.










Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


Nice Smitty. I thought it was Stanley orange. Is that frayed electrical wiring that I see?

Just don't stick your finger in there. I bought a fan by SawStop for that very reason ;^)


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


Seriously, I am strongly considering a ceiling fan right above the work bench.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


The pictures are very frightening, indeed. The fan isn't as scary in real life. It will be re-wired now that I know it works. And mounted high on the wall, out of reach. But it's definitely from a different era.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


This color scheme would be cool. Wish I could restore machines like those I've seen do up big iron woodworking machines…


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## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


Now thats cool. You are one retro guy. Thanks Smitty.


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## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


"Wish I could restore machines"

Give it a try. The fan seems like a great place to start.


----------



## Dal300

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


Gee, thanks….. now I feel old, again. <sigh>

We had those fans in the house and in the barn when I was a kid.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


I love how thinkg were made with such style back in the days. Pretty cool fan.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


Maybe I'll do up Don's Ford Engine Black paint on the base and backshell, shine up the cooling 'fins' and the aluminum blades, and give the thing a vintage handplane look, all black and metallic. That'd be something I could do that would look good. Don't know why the grill is rusted. Different metal, or was it chromed, or ? Hard to say anymore; could have been they draped a damp rag on it back in the day, too.

When I saw that grid on the backside, all art-deco'y, had to have it.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


i'll be a groupy in this fan club!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


Sweet!

RE: Scott's mention of a ceiling fan… I too thought about that, but often enough I've spun a long piece of stock and been thankful there were no light figures to hit. It's a 10' ceiling in the shop and cutting into that space isn't ideal. Hopefully this fan, plus a big squirrel fan on the floor when July heat comes, will do the trick and A/C costs will be avoided.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


I installed a ceiling fan. Its I'm the back corner opposite the overhead door. It helps when I'm sweeping and creates a draft out the door in warm weather and should help keep the heat off the ceiling in the cold months.

Its close enough to my RAS that I do need to be careful with spinning a long piece.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


Smitty, I like the idea of using the colors from the Stanly Decal. That blue would be sweet.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


Maur, I'm thinking the decal'd logo would be cool in the center circle of the fan blade - big, to fit the circle. Doing the whole fan in the decal colors is biting off too much for this rattle can user. 

I wish I had more windows in my workshop space for cross ventilation. Best I could do is a louvred vent fan out the back wall, to draw air from the screened front window. 'twould be nice.


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


Nice Smitty. Post a picture once you have all the pin striping & chrome work done, please.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


'Pimp my Fan'

Nice!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


EDIT: The hyperlink in this post takes you a video of the fan actually working. Yeah, I know, like watching paint dry. Wanted to try video though!

Experiment: Video via Photobucket.










Hmmmm…. Recorded on iphone… Need to research.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


Can't see it on the iPad. It may be flash or something.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


Hah! Got it via hyperlink! See it now? (Refresh, see post above for link)


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


The link worked fine. Show off.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


It is alive!!!! 

Stumpy has nothing to worry about, right? lol


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


Nice fan!


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


Ive had my eye on the old fans too but damn theyre expensive around here. Cheapest one i seen was $50 and need a full rehab and wiring. I never thought about putting it in my shop though … i dig the restore ideas Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


^ I hear ya on the prices. It's nuts. It seems they were throw-aways 7 - 10 years ago, now they're gold.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


My latest restore. Inside is clean and shiny. I'm thinking diesel for the kabota.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


I'll have to take a picture of the Marvel Mystery Oil gal. can that holds my weedeater fuel. "Advanced Custom Made" must have been some special friggin' oil!


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


Man, you guys are just like me, i cant walk by anything thats rusty and not take a peek. "I aint scared a no rust". I scored a big ole milk jug the other day at the town wide tag sale for $10. I think a little naval jelly and a scotch pad will bring it right back to life.


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Fan Club!*
> 
> Of all things vintage, needed an electric fan for the shop now that summer is here. Shopping for tools in the antique malls upstate from my small shop, I discovered electric fans are an expensive pursuit. Especially if it has brass fan blades. When I spotted this Westinghouse model for $5.50, knew there'd be a catch… As is. Rats. Took a chance though, and glad I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Straightened the bent the cage and added some machine oil before spinning it by hand for about ten minutes. At that point it started turning on it's own. Let it run for hours, it's good! Oh, and it is a 'variable oscillating' kind. Very handy! Now, paint it in vintage Stanley blue? Hmmm…


Way too cool.!
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*A Vintage Tool Chest*

Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.










There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.

No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.

Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Very nice Smitty! Glad it found a home in your capable hands. If you find time would you please post a picture of the hinges/nails?

Thanks for sharing and congrats on the score.


----------



## helluvawreck

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


That would really good in somebody's mountain cabin. Nice find.

helluvawreck
https://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## SamuelP

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Go for it!

The nails will take it. After all they were not bought at HD LUWES.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


nice project 
time to hi-jack a barn

Dennis


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


LOL!

Thanks, Dennis, you are wonderful!!!!

The grin is certainly appreciated, I needed that!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


my wife would be using that as a coffee table. Great find!!


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


I love those old chests. So much to learn from them. Have fun!


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Smitty what a find. I am in love. See if you can date it by the nails. The shape of the nail will help you date it.









Common eight penny nails used in house and furniture construction. The one on the left was hand wrought and hand headed either by a professional nailer or by a blacksmith in the 1700s. Most antique dealers and collectors can easily recognize this style nail (the Rose Head). The nail in the middle was made between 1790 and 1835. The shank of this nail has opposite side cutting burrs because the stock this nail was cut from was rotated 180∞ between each cut. The nail is severely side pinched under the head. This deformation was caused by the heading machine clamp pinching the shaft at this point to hold it securely so that the head could be formed. The nail on the right was made between 1835 and 1885. The cutting burrs are on the same side of the nail shaft. Same side burrs are evidence of an improvement in nail technology implemented in 1835. The entire nail was cut in one operation. It was no longer necessary to rotate the stock between each cut. The heading machine grabbed this style nail by the face to hold it so that the head could be formed. Notice there is no side pinching underneath the head.


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Great find Smitty. I would probably build onto the existing board in situ. My worry if I extracted the nails would be whether they would grip properly when I tried to put them back in the same place. Can't wait to see what you do with it. Thanks for sharing it.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Dave, first glance the heads (visible in the picks) are beat up enough to be rose heads, but this can't that old. Body od the nails doesn't hit any example just right, and I've both pulled and (re-)used the newer types. I'm guessing it dates no earlier than some of the marked tools i also bought at the sale- the ce jennings saw and a rosewood and brass morticing gauge- from 1890-ish though 1920 or so, but the earlier half. A guess.

Brit, that's what I'm thinking, too. What style lid is the question.

Thanks, Don, Maur and all for input!


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Beautiful!
I love a old box with plenty of patina, this one can become really something.
Perhaps a old pallet can bring wood for the lid…
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Well, Carters Whittling is building a chest and documenting it here on LJs, and reading that gave me the detail I needed to set my approach to this chest refurb. The lone board that was the top will be removed, but the plan is to keep the hinges mounted where and as they are. I'll make a top that is skirted, then skirt the bottom as well, because those are what this chest simply must have.

I like the look, and the fact that lid skirts keep out dust and the like.

This chest likely had a simple two-board top and a metal strap to hook over the still-in-place loop. But it will be a bit more than that when I'm done with it. Is that bad? Don't know. But the plan right now is not to restore but to rehab and make useful in a respectful way.

Now to see if I can find old, blue boards.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


I'm looking forward to see this build out Smitty.


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Dido here Smitty.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Me too…


----------



## HerbC

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Superdav721,

In response to your signature quote…

"It's hard to be two places at once when you're really nowhere at all…"

Smile!

Herb


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Found one blue pine board that will work as a material source!


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Smitty,

Somehow I missed this. Regardless, I have some great ideas for you. Especially since you have already picked a blue color. I am thinking spray paint it. Then stencil! It will be awesome. Maybe some sea shells like this…...


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Or maybe this…....


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Seriously, while I was looking for the most ridiculous tool chests I could find - I came across this…..


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Ummm, you're not helping…


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Really?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Yes, really. Where am I supposed to find stencils for shells and starfish??


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Expand your skillset Smitty and cut them out of breakfast cereal boxes. I think Scott is onto something.

That last chest is amazing. Suitable for holding one of everything LN make. What tools do you think left that kind of surface on the wood?


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


You lack of appreciation cuts deep.

OK, I'll give it another try. You can NOT tell me that you don't love this…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Looks like a lunchbox. But maybe it's poor lighting…


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


It is not the form Smitty! It is the suffocating hydrocarbon veneer. It is the toxic marblesque film that blankets the innate beauty, covering the subtle form and achieving the grotesque.

You obviously don't have an eye for aesthetics.

Alright -I will quit badgering you. I just arose a little too early this AM :^)


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Scott, if I may make a recommendation…....decaf!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


My aesthetic eye needs coffee.

But I can see now what the real issue is: you're a Paintophobe!


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


LOL, you guys gave me a chuckle this morning.

Smitty, when you said you were looking for blue wood I thought your were kidding. You actually found some!

Scott seriously, I love that chest in the black and white picture with all the jack plane tracks all over it. I love tool marks….


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Brit, the only thing I prefer to make of cereal boxes is breakfast. I like that heavily 'chopped' chest, too. Made to hold something pretty valuable indeed. Maybe drawings for an outdoor, collapsible English workbench?

I think, Maur, that a light steel wool job on the chest may brighten it up a bit to come closer to the board I found. It's not enough material to make the whole lid, unfortunately. So it's skirts for this board. The search goes on.

Oh, and can you tell I never met an old board I didn't like?


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Andy … it seems to be made with either a carpenters axe or a adze 
my gess its the adze with long shaft

Dennis


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


I agree Dennis. The marks look very similar to a hand hewed beam.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


 those marks just looked simular of those 
the blacksmith made in the vidio about the Viking toolchest 
in a Roy Underhill vidio
and the chest it self was the hint 

Dennis


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Vintage Tool Chest*
> 
> Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I've ever seen - clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I'll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would require surgery to remove. The whole chest needs to be disassembled and re-glued / clamped to make it right, and that's what I'm inclined to do… I'd like to complete this interior, build a top and make it a tool chest again.
> 
> No timeline, most important aspect is to be respectful of the history of this thing. For example, I'd love to keep the hinges installed as is and build onto the one board that still remains from the top (also evident in the pic), but what a pain in the arse to work that way when I think of what it'd entail. If I could be certain that the forged nails would live through the trauma, I'd pull them, straighten then re-use. I just don't know yet.
> 
> Feel free to comment / opine below, felt like sharing this with my LJ friends and collect some other perspectives. Thanks for looking!


Thanks Dennis.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Get a Handle On It!*

Amazing to find that what's old is new again!

Japanned? Made in New Britain?










Four pairs with slotted screws, wrapped in wax paper.










One pair certainly destined for the sides of the wall-hung tool cabinet! 










Where to go with the other three pair? Meh, no hurry to decide. Thanks for looking!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Get a Handle On It!*
> 
> Amazing to find that what's old is new again!
> 
> Japanned? Made in New Britain?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four pairs with slotted screws, wrapped in wax paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One pair certainly destined for the sides of the wall-hung tool cabinet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where to go with the other three pair? Meh, no hurry to decide. Thanks for looking!


I could handle that!

japanned, slotted screws and in wax paper. Like stepping out of a time machine.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Get a Handle On It!*
> 
> Amazing to find that what's old is new again!
> 
> Japanned? Made in New Britain?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four pairs with slotted screws, wrapped in wax paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One pair certainly destined for the sides of the wall-hung tool cabinet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where to go with the other three pair? Meh, no hurry to decide. Thanks for looking!


No hard plastic 'card' shrunk tight around the goods, either. Love it.


----------



## SamuelP

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Get a Handle On It!*
> 
> Amazing to find that what's old is new again!
> 
> Japanned? Made in New Britain?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four pairs with slotted screws, wrapped in wax paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One pair certainly destined for the sides of the wall-hung tool cabinet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where to go with the other three pair? Meh, no hurry to decide. Thanks for looking!


Use some on that vintage tool chest you are redoing?

Where did you dig them up?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Get a Handle On It!*
> 
> Amazing to find that what's old is new again!
> 
> Japanned? Made in New Britain?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four pairs with slotted screws, wrapped in wax paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One pair certainly destined for the sides of the wall-hung tool cabinet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where to go with the other three pair? Meh, no hurry to decide. Thanks for looking!


The chest actually has handles, and those are the best part of the chest at this point. 

Found these on the 'bay!~ I've been following a bunch of listings for the past couple months for pairs, and when these came up I went with the minimum and ended up getting them. Love that they're japanned, especially, and not nickled or chromed.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Get a Handle On It!*
> 
> Amazing to find that what's old is new again!
> 
> Japanned? Made in New Britain?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four pairs with slotted screws, wrapped in wax paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One pair certainly destined for the sides of the wall-hung tool cabinet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where to go with the other three pair? Meh, no hurry to decide. Thanks for looking!


Great find Smitty. Those are slick!


----------



## SamuelP

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Get a Handle On It!*
> 
> Amazing to find that what's old is new again!
> 
> Japanned? Made in New Britain?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four pairs with slotted screws, wrapped in wax paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One pair certainly destined for the sides of the wall-hung tool cabinet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where to go with the other three pair? Meh, no hurry to decide. Thanks for looking!


Smitty - You might like these too.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Get a Handle On It!*
> 
> Amazing to find that what's old is new again!
> 
> Japanned? Made in New Britain?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four pairs with slotted screws, wrapped in wax paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One pair certainly destined for the sides of the wall-hung tool cabinet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where to go with the other three pair? Meh, no hurry to decide. Thanks for looking!


Now Sam, that would just be silly. 

But they're cool. Bakelite. Awesome stuff.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Get a Handle On It!*
> 
> Amazing to find that what's old is new again!
> 
> Japanned? Made in New Britain?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four pairs with slotted screws, wrapped in wax paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One pair certainly destined for the sides of the wall-hung tool cabinet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where to go with the other three pair? Meh, no hurry to decide. Thanks for looking!


And in a plastic tray!!


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Get a Handle On It!*
> 
> Amazing to find that what's old is new again!
> 
> Japanned? Made in New Britain?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four pairs with slotted screws, wrapped in wax paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One pair certainly destined for the sides of the wall-hung tool cabinet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where to go with the other three pair? Meh, no hurry to decide. Thanks for looking!


I dont know how you guys find this stuff on the bay. Nice Smitty.


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## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Get a Handle On It!*
> 
> Amazing to find that what's old is new again!
> 
> Japanned? Made in New Britain?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four pairs with slotted screws, wrapped in wax paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One pair certainly destined for the sides of the wall-hung tool cabinet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where to go with the other three pair? Meh, no hurry to decide. Thanks for looking!


What a find. I love it Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Get a Handle On It!*
> 
> Amazing to find that what's old is new again!
> 
> Japanned? Made in New Britain?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four pairs with slotted screws, wrapped in wax paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One pair certainly destined for the sides of the wall-hung tool cabinet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where to go with the other three pair? Meh, no hurry to decide. Thanks for looking!


Lysdexic and Dave - Thanks! I'm looking forward to installing a pair of these when the cabinet is done. It's becoming quite the challenge, but I'll get there. Jury is out on my decision to try cherry on this build… Very unforging material.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*

Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!

I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.

Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?










!









!









Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Send me a PM if you can help!


----------



## BrandonW

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Good luck finding some casters, Smitty! Those would be a fine touch.


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Smitty I will keep my eyes peeled.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?












No?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Tempting, indeed, but no…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Bump!


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


?


----------



## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Smitty,

I have worked on a few Victorian home restoration projects and have great success locating items from glass door knob to decorative iron fence and gates, from victorian furniture to original amusement park rides & items. This place has 3 floors above ground and 2 below and they are wall to wall salvaged items from pre 1900 and forward from there. They are located in Louisville, Ky., about 25 miles south of my home and if I am looking to replace anything antique, they are my go to source. 
It would not suprise me if they have what you need and they are real nice folks to deal with.
Here's their contact info, give 'em a call.

Joe Ley Antiques
joeley.com
Copyright© 1999-2001 Joe Ley Antiques Louisville Kentucky Phone: 502.583.4014 All Rights Reserved

My first visit took an entire day (not a working day) just to walk through, It's an amazing trip down memory lane or a look back into the past for you Youngsters.

I made a quick trip down there one day, hoping to find surface mount iron door locks and glass door knobs, they had 5 or 6, foot lockers full, of each.

Good luck.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Len- Outstanding, thanks!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Bump!


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Did you call Joe Ley? Any luck?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Calling them tomorrow, hope they have sat hours. Then an offer of a reproducton house is second. No matches out there in lj land of a 2" surface mount caster…


----------



## oluf

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Try this site. I find them very good and great prices. www.thecasteguy.com


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Very nice site, can't find steel w/ 2" total height…


----------



## SamuelP

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Last item listed here.

Too much moo-la if you ask me.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Holy Cr*p! I agree, too much $...

Watching a couple sets on the 'bay that will work very well…


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


bump

It is Tuesday evening and I am back on call. Tonight I get to finish a finger amputation on a guy who got his finger between a trailer hitch ball and receiver. Just waiting around and looking for cool tool chest designs.

Bored.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Ouch… Note to self: keep finger away from space between hitch and ball…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Followed these on the 'bay, too much $....


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Help!! Looking for Old Iron Caster Wheels*
> 
> Fellow LJs, I hope one of you can help me with a challenge!
> 
> I'm trying to (re-) build a tool chest and want to put steel wheels on it. Old ones. I have a pair, but need four.
> 
> Do you have two cast wheels / casters that look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height and material and style important; having an exact match not so much. Have you held onto anything like these? Or if you have four wheels that are alike, would you be willing to make a deal with a fellow LJ?


Proceeding with two wheels, details in next installment of Chest Blog…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*(SW) Dumb Luck*

Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.










Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.










Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


----------



## BrandonW

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *(SW) Dumb Luck*
> 
> Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


Sweet! Literally. Those are some nice sw hinges. Good luck finding the right project for them.


----------



## SamuelP

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *(SW) Dumb Luck*
> 
> Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


Nice find.


----------



## SamuelP

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *(SW) Dumb Luck*
> 
> Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


Here is a transitional for you.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/partial-decal-STANLEY-28-WOOD-PLANE-TOOL-sweetheart-transitional-/200781162341


----------



## alba

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *(SW) Dumb Luck*
> 
> Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


Nice find


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *(SW) Dumb Luck*
> 
> Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


Sam, that is a nice #28!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *(SW) Dumb Luck*
> 
> Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


did they make SW transitionals?

Sweet find on those hinges. They will fit into your shop fine.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *(SW) Dumb Luck*
> 
> Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


I've not seen the logo stamped in wood, but the iron, sure. The decal is a dead giveaway for the era, too.

I was shocked to see the hinges had the logo, only spotted that kind of stuff on the 'bay before.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *(SW) Dumb Luck*
> 
> Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


i guess this is the first time I've paid attention to the dates on gores site. Some of the transitionals were made until pretty recently. I wonder why there is such a difference in the stop production dates? I would assume it was demand.

You've got me thinking I need to pay attention when looking at hardware at flea markets.


----------



## Bertha

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *(SW) Dumb Luck*
> 
> Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


Crap! I had no idea! You know you have to use them.


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *(SW) Dumb Luck*
> 
> Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


Smitty is that logo over your bed. If not it needs to be. Nice find.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *(SW) Dumb Luck*
> 
> Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


The only Stanley in the bedroom is the No. 34 tool catalog that sits on the nightstand. Sorry to disappoint. 

All the SW talk I do probably sounds like an obsession to the casual observer, but I just like finding examples of all the odd things the old Stanley slapped the logo on so long ago. Hinges, a knife set (which I did NOT buy, BTW), tool chests, tools, etc. Like there are Millers Falls, Diamond Edge, Keen Kutter, etc. folks out there too. I have a couple / three old train sets; they're pre-war American Flyer O guage, and when I got those years ago it was AF only, no Lionel for me. Brand loyalty, I guess. Or just that there's so much out there to go after, by limiting myself to niche products there's less temptation overall.

That's enough truth telling for a Saturday, I think.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *(SW) Dumb Luck*
> 
> Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


speaking of MF and screwdrivers. I'm sure I heard screw drivers. Anyhow, when I pulled these screwdrivers out of the box I thought of Smitty.










The hack saw is a MF's #10, the large screwdriver is a champion. Then, isn't this is a Stanley? I couldn't find a brand.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *(SW) Dumb Luck*
> 
> Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


The pair have the style of Hurwoods; does the steel go all the way through, and end in a visible (large) button at the butt end? It's either Hurwood or a hurwood copy. They're excellent drivers and take all kinds of abuse. The perfect handle is also a nice bench tool. I've got all kinds of sizes of them, don't use them though…


----------



## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *(SW) Dumb Luck*
> 
> Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


Nice find Smitty, who would have thunk it? Look forward to see it showing up on a project some day.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *(SW) Dumb Luck*
> 
> Went to my Dad's shop to see if he had casters I was looking for (no), when in a drawer caught my attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked like something I scanned on ebay, so I flipped it over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Have to find a most worthy cause for the pair! Thanks for looking.


Congrats! They couldn't have found a more appropriate home.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Common Chest Handles*

Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.










I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.



















Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Did the other Chest have any similarities either structural or cosmetic to make you think they are related?


----------



## pdegreyt

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Here is a helpful hint to remove the rust on those handles of the top picture try using vinegar, let it soak in vinegar for a day clean of the rust with a steel brush and gone is the rust. It's a trick learned when I made amour. looks like a fun project


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Sound a bit like London buses Smitty. You wait an hour, then two come along at once.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Hand cut dovetails was it, re: similarities. It was a barrel-top trunk, about three times larger than my piece, no skirting, and a simple strip under the the front and back edge made rummers that touched the ground.










Second generation morticed hinges, not like mine at all. I did like the barrel - style lid.










Handles simply do not come off without destryoying them, so the surface rust stays for now. I can dress them up with a green pad or steel wool, though.

Has to be like that, Andy. Especially so because I've not attention to such things before now…


----------



## alba

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Smitty

If they could talk.

The stories they could tell.

jamie


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Andy has got it. Curious how that happens though.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Jamie, those would be stories. The good part about the one I have is, it'll have a useful life in a shop now vs. the static display mode it otherwise may have been facing. Whatever tweeks and mods I have to do to get it there, ultimately it's a good thing to me that is once again has real purpose.

Tony - it's all in what we're on the lookout for!  Like editing text, watching traffic go by, or scrutinizing the fit of a joint, or sawing a line. There's the act of seeing something, then there's actually looking at it…


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


...and so say all of us Smitty!


----------



## alba

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…












Smitty

Sorry it took so long it was buried under a pile

of wood. 

It is in worse shape than I remembered, the skirting

is missing . The graffiti was me at 17, heading out to

Africa. Also I made a mistake it was my Great Grandfaithers

my Faither told me.

Jamie


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Oh, Wow! Excellent!

Looks like the lower skirt has been missing awhile (since before your stencil job!  )

That lid looks incredible from the side. It is an inset panel that's flush on top, w/ an inset underneath by chance? You know I'm still coming up with the style of my lid, and will gladly steal ideas…


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


If I was coming up with a new lid de novo - this is what I would do.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


You're just full of… ideas…


----------



## alba

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


I never noticed the skirting missing before

The iron bar on the top was broken when

it fell off a railway wagon.


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Smitty when you start looking strange things appear. Thats why I hold on the tools missing parts. You never know.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Dave, you know that might just be the most valuable aspect of this site. Interacting with fine people like yourself and discussing vintage tools has opened my eyes the a universe / subculture that I never knew existed. I am enamored by the beauty of it all. I have learned so much here.

I see beauty in unassuming, humble hand tools that I did not see. That was before I learned what to look for. Now I see.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Oh, Jamie, that is an awesome sight! Love that open lid shot, with sliders! Thanks for posting, it's certainly an inspiring set of details to emulate…

Super, so true!


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Scott, I have gained many friends here. I have learned so much. I have seen these guys help each other from around the world. You and you wanting to learn is what will keep the old traditions alive. Smitty looking so close at hardware, looking under every stone for casters. Here is just one example. I was in need for a cap screw. Smitty went out to his shop and found other plane models with the same screw to give me a different avenue to look. When that failed another LJ had his brother make me one. The only way you would be able to get that kind of help on such a 100 year old tool is the internet. Thank you Scott for being there.
Lets continue to have the good friendships.
And just think I never would have learned Busy Boy Tools were made from soft plastic


----------



## alba

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


*And just think I never would have learned Busy Boy Tools were made from soft plastic*

Yeesh! That might be why I cant get an edge. 

Smitty
Funny how the old Tool Chest has become a storage place or less used tools. You

have opened my eyes. Thank You

Scott
LJ's has been an eye opener for myself as well.

jamie


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Dave - I had to laugh over something you wrote in post #14 above. Of course what you meant by it was,

"Smitty when you start looking, strange things appear."

...but I read it as,

"Smitty when you start looking strange, things appear."

I had visions of Smitty standing there pulling faces to try and magic up some antique casters. )


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Line from an 80s movie is appropriate here:

'I'd piss on a spark plug if I thought it'd do any good!''


----------



## alba

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


You have me thinking that I should follow

your example and get my tool chest up to

a better standard

I also like the way my Great Grandfaither did

the double drawer slide.

jamie


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Andy I am bad at proper English and punctuation is out. My mother hated this because she worked for our Library Commission for nearly 20 years.
Its all in the comma


----------



## SamuelP

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Smitty - Nice "War Games" reference.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Star for Sam!!!


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


And another point goes to Scott! Love it!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Updated to replace pics, because of PhotoSCUMbucket.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Common Chest Handles*
> 
> Working on a chest refurb, and pretty much the fanciest thing remaining on the old thing were the side handles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd not seen anything like them before, but now a second pair appeared on a trunk in a nearby antique shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd. No, I didn't buy the chest. Nice, but not $465-nice…


Hmm. I've been thinking I need to build a small tool box for "haul around tools" to take to where something needs fixing around the house (and neighbors houses as they discover I fix things). I'm pretty sure I'll need to label it "Busy Boy Tool Chest" !


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Pulling an Iron Into Shape*

Vintage iron on a 'new' tool for the shop, decided to take a few pictures as I walked through the 'sharpening' of the iron. first step is flattening the back, and that showed me a flaw: A convex back, meaning the sides aren't flat to the back overall.










After a few hundred strokes on the corse DMT, better but not wonderful. At a point, I moved on and will monitor performance of the tool over time…










Moving to the primary bevel, know that a sharp edge doesn't reflect light. This one sure did.










Worked it through the grits and raised a burr each time. It's the ragged edge visible below.










Strop on the iron…









And the chipbreaker…









And the #604C is working just fine!


----------



## bluekingfisher

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pulling an Iron Into Shape*
> 
> Vintage iron on a 'new' tool for the shop, decided to take a few pictures as I walked through the 'sharpening' of the iron. first step is flattening the back, and that showed me a flaw: A convex back, meaning the sides aren't flat to the back overall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a few hundred strokes on the corse DMT, better but not wonderful. At a point, I moved on and will monitor performance of the tool over time…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moving to the primary bevel, know that a sharp edge doesn't reflect light. This one sure did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked it through the grits and raised a burr each time. It's the ragged edge visible below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strop on the iron…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the chipbreaker…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the #604C is working just fine!


Thanks for the tutorial Smitty, great end performance from that old iron, just goes to show what a little hard work and of course knowledge can produce.

Cheers


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pulling an Iron Into Shape*
> 
> Vintage iron on a 'new' tool for the shop, decided to take a few pictures as I walked through the 'sharpening' of the iron. first step is flattening the back, and that showed me a flaw: A convex back, meaning the sides aren't flat to the back overall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a few hundred strokes on the corse DMT, better but not wonderful. At a point, I moved on and will monitor performance of the tool over time…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moving to the primary bevel, know that a sharp edge doesn't reflect light. This one sure did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked it through the grits and raised a burr each time. It's the ragged edge visible below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strop on the iron…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the chipbreaker…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the #604C is working just fine!


its not just old irons that gives swett on the forhead 
I bought a new plane years ago and cuoldn´t understand why it wuoldn´t work as I wanted it
realy didn´t new anything about how a plane worked and why it was build as it was … 
now I know …. lol
it took me twenty hours to handsharpen and hone it …..now I can use it as a mirror …yeaaa 
I had to take 2-3 mm of the back before it was deadflat 
I´m glad its only a hobby and don´t have to live of it ….. LOL

Dennis


----------



## bhog

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pulling an Iron Into Shape*
> 
> Vintage iron on a 'new' tool for the shop, decided to take a few pictures as I walked through the 'sharpening' of the iron. first step is flattening the back, and that showed me a flaw: A convex back, meaning the sides aren't flat to the back overall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a few hundred strokes on the corse DMT, better but not wonderful. At a point, I moved on and will monitor performance of the tool over time…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moving to the primary bevel, know that a sharp edge doesn't reflect light. This one sure did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked it through the grits and raised a burr each time. It's the ragged edge visible below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strop on the iron…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the chipbreaker…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the #604C is working just fine!


Sweet.I bet it was exciting taking those first shavings with it.What was your first impression of the bedrock design?

Also do you plan to buy any natural beans? ^ WTF


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pulling an Iron Into Shape*
> 
> Vintage iron on a 'new' tool for the shop, decided to take a few pictures as I walked through the 'sharpening' of the iron. first step is flattening the back, and that showed me a flaw: A convex back, meaning the sides aren't flat to the back overall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a few hundred strokes on the corse DMT, better but not wonderful. At a point, I moved on and will monitor performance of the tool over time…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moving to the primary bevel, know that a sharp edge doesn't reflect light. This one sure did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked it through the grits and raised a burr each time. It's the ragged edge visible below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strop on the iron…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the chipbreaker…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the #604C is working just fine!


Natural beans ROCK!!!

Thanks, Dennis! You're right about hobby status. Alot of time goes into these tools that isn't rewarded by $. 

It's always cool to get a first cut from a new tool. No exception here, of course.

What to make of the BR / first impressions…

- how to remove the frog, as the frog bolts have no slots (i'm a noob)
- I removed the lever cap and iron to adjust the frog, so I could see it was parallel to the mouth
- what's the hubub about?

At this point it's the last Bedrock I'll buy, but it's way early. We'll see!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pulling an Iron Into Shape*
> 
> Vintage iron on a 'new' tool for the shop, decided to take a few pictures as I walked through the 'sharpening' of the iron. first step is flattening the back, and that showed me a flaw: A convex back, meaning the sides aren't flat to the back overall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a few hundred strokes on the corse DMT, better but not wonderful. At a point, I moved on and will monitor performance of the tool over time…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moving to the primary bevel, know that a sharp edge doesn't reflect light. This one sure did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked it through the grits and raised a burr each time. It's the ragged edge visible below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strop on the iron…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the chipbreaker…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the #604C is working just fine!


Smitty, remove the 2 outside screws behind the frog base.

You can tell if the frog is even with the iron still attached.

Once you see how the frog works, its pretty cool.

You don't need to completely remove the screws, you'll see why.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pulling an Iron Into Shape*
> 
> Vintage iron on a 'new' tool for the shop, decided to take a few pictures as I walked through the 'sharpening' of the iron. first step is flattening the back, and that showed me a flaw: A convex back, meaning the sides aren't flat to the back overall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a few hundred strokes on the corse DMT, better but not wonderful. At a point, I moved on and will monitor performance of the tool over time…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moving to the primary bevel, know that a sharp edge doesn't reflect light. This one sure did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked it through the grits and raised a burr each time. It's the ragged edge visible below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strop on the iron…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the chipbreaker…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the #604C is working just fine!


"At a point, I moved on…" - I am not sure where it's obtained but i need to find some of that ability. I can get a little obstinate once set to task which can cause frustration.

Thanks for the post Smitty.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pulling an Iron Into Shape*
> 
> Vintage iron on a 'new' tool for the shop, decided to take a few pictures as I walked through the 'sharpening' of the iron. first step is flattening the back, and that showed me a flaw: A convex back, meaning the sides aren't flat to the back overall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a few hundred strokes on the corse DMT, better but not wonderful. At a point, I moved on and will monitor performance of the tool over time…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moving to the primary bevel, know that a sharp edge doesn't reflect light. This one sure did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked it through the grits and raised a burr each time. It's the ragged edge visible below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strop on the iron…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the chipbreaker…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the #604C is working just fine!


I've been thinking about that section of the entry, even added and re-wrote it a bit after hitting 'submit' last night. There's a bit more to the story that I should cover.

"The point" at which I moved on centers on the fact that I apply a slight camber to pretty much all of my bench plane irons. Big for the jack, little for the jointer and smoothing planes. But camber nonetheless. So with this iron having some 'withdrawal' near the cutting edge, I had a decision to make: keep lapping until it's all gone, or stop? Because I'm only lapping about an inch from the edge, it's clear I'm applying some amount of bevel to the back, low slope though it is. I don't wish to apply a back bevel at all, so when 90+% of the iron's edge was 'engaged,' another reality was considered: the chipbreaker.

As long as the chipbreaker is able to make contact across the whole of the iron (no light visible when the screw is in place), no debris is inserted and planing goes well at tight tolerances. So at 'the point' I stopped lapping on the iron, the breaker's inside face got a touch-up on the DMTs to ensure flat and straight. When I mated the two, there was light. Figures the iron was not exactly flat; it had some wind to it. A few taps with the plannishing hammer against the bench, and that was resolved too.

So 'the point' was only allowed because the convexity reality has zero impact going forward: camber means light outside edges of the iron aren't in full contact with stuff being worked as much as the middle of the iron, and chipbreaker fitting to ensure no gaps.

I'm not an expert by any means, but like others I'd rather work wood than fettle tools. So when these factors pointed to an 'all clear,' I went with it!

Thanks for the comments, Tony!


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pulling an Iron Into Shape*
> 
> Vintage iron on a 'new' tool for the shop, decided to take a few pictures as I walked through the 'sharpening' of the iron. first step is flattening the back, and that showed me a flaw: A convex back, meaning the sides aren't flat to the back overall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a few hundred strokes on the corse DMT, better but not wonderful. At a point, I moved on and will monitor performance of the tool over time…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moving to the primary bevel, know that a sharp edge doesn't reflect light. This one sure did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked it through the grits and raised a burr each time. It's the ragged edge visible below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strop on the iron…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the chipbreaker…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the #604C is working just fine!


I hate when that happens, the convex iron back. When I get that, I'll flatten it as much as I can and then knock off the corners so that the imperfection is made irrelevant.

I expected the DMT to make short work of that, which sucks. I was looking forward to buying one someday for that reason.

Do you pay any attention to the angle ground on the front of the chip breaker? I don't know what angle I put on it but I make it a little steeper after reading that Schwarz blog. At least on smoothers.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pulling an Iron Into Shape*
> 
> Vintage iron on a 'new' tool for the shop, decided to take a few pictures as I walked through the 'sharpening' of the iron. first step is flattening the back, and that showed me a flaw: A convex back, meaning the sides aren't flat to the back overall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a few hundred strokes on the corse DMT, better but not wonderful. At a point, I moved on and will monitor performance of the tool over time…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moving to the primary bevel, know that a sharp edge doesn't reflect light. This one sure did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked it through the grits and raised a burr each time. It's the ragged edge visible below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strop on the iron…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the chipbreaker…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the #604C is working just fine!


I've smacked the back of more than one iron to. It seems to happen more on the later vintage. After the original SW. I'm not sure if it's because they are thinner, softer or they just came that way.

I try not to just move on, but only because I may be selling the plane. I agree the very edges shouldn't matter. The #6 I just did took forever. I'd get frustrated, set it down and leave it for a while.


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pulling an Iron Into Shape*
> 
> Vintage iron on a 'new' tool for the shop, decided to take a few pictures as I walked through the 'sharpening' of the iron. first step is flattening the back, and that showed me a flaw: A convex back, meaning the sides aren't flat to the back overall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a few hundred strokes on the corse DMT, better but not wonderful. At a point, I moved on and will monitor performance of the tool over time…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moving to the primary bevel, know that a sharp edge doesn't reflect light. This one sure did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked it through the grits and raised a burr each time. It's the ragged edge visible below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strop on the iron…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the chipbreaker…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the #604C is working just fine!


Smitty a great step by step. The photography is great.


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pulling an Iron Into Shape*
> 
> Vintage iron on a 'new' tool for the shop, decided to take a few pictures as I walked through the 'sharpening' of the iron. first step is flattening the back, and that showed me a flaw: A convex back, meaning the sides aren't flat to the back overall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a few hundred strokes on the corse DMT, better but not wonderful. At a point, I moved on and will monitor performance of the tool over time…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moving to the primary bevel, know that a sharp edge doesn't reflect light. This one sure did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked it through the grits and raised a burr each time. It's the ragged edge visible below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strop on the iron…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the chipbreaker…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the #604C is working just fine!


Nothing like a reshaped plane iron!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*A Stanley #50 in the House!*

Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.










(And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)










A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!




























So it's in the box and complete!










Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!



















So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


----------



## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Smitty, you are on some kind of acquisition roll. Looks like fun.


----------



## waho6o9

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Good job Smitty.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Looks great! Cant wait to see some grooves.


----------



## Mosquito

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


nice! The machine shop really came through. Looks great!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Money shots added!


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


What I'd they say at the machine shop when you told them what you are looking for? Did they have a clue or did they figure you were some eccentric millionaire with a quirky hobby?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


The machinist looked to be boring cylinders when I walked into the back machine room. I held up the rod and asked if he could duplicate it. He measured the threads with some kind of gauge, and said 'that's not a common threading.' He checked the rod diameter and repeated his comment before adding, 'Where's this from?' A pre-war Stanley #50 beading plane, I said. 'Never heard of that before, but this is a nice rod. I can have you another in about three weeks if you're not in a hurry, that way I can combine your rod stock with something else and save shipping.' And the deal was done. They know my wife and me, and it was nice to support a local, small business. $20 was the price.

Oh, and it does have nickers!


----------



## racerglen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Love nickers !
That's a fine looking piece you've saved Smitty and gotta love the 
machinists help (and price!)
Carry on…..


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Glen - I was very surprised at the amount of nickel plate on the tool, and that it cleaned up so well. Wish I had taken a 'before' pic so it could go on Don's before and after thread…


----------



## AKSteve

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


that is a beautiful piece of work. thanks for sharing. it did clean up nice!


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Nice money shot! And thanks for the story, I never even thought of going to a machine shop to have something made, I'll have to try that one day.


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Nice story and awesome shots, Smitty! Congrats on the new family member…looks like a hard worker.

I noticed a local machine shop recently…gotta stop in to say hi.


----------



## carlosponti

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


I have one what a fun tool. still working on getting mine back in user shape. mine didnt have cutters and depth stops.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


"Not a collector though" 

You made that really shiny …. times are a changin' in Smitty's shop?

Congrats on the new worker.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


RE: shiny, sometimes Lysdexic sneaks into my shop and imposes his shiny self on selected tools. I can't help it…

Joe - I got lucky with this one for sure, having a full set of cutters (pre-1936) as well as the depth gauge and beading gauge. It's an older model; no chip deflector or cutter adjustment lever, but that just makes the overall condition of this one all the more amazing. I'm thinking it didn't get much use at all, but that ends now, as I'll use it plenty. Why? Because I'm not a collector. lol


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Smitty, you got one fine collection of tools. I love to see follow your blogs. You've got a great way of presenting.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Hello Don, and Thanks for the input. I like Lysdexic's word for my tools: arsenal. 

Have you had a chance to dig into the T11 #5C yet? It needed attention, but looked to me to have very solid lines and was fully functional. Just curious. I worked with the 3506 a bit, trying to reclaim the natural curve of the lever cap. I love that block; lat and length adjusters are wonderful things. lol


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


I did dig into the 5c. It had a solid foundation, but was a bit rough around the edges. I had to leave it soaking in evapo-rust and haven't been back to the shop. Everything else cleaned up great. The tote was epoxied and is still in the clamp. The iron was a disaster, but I think I got it fixed. I hope by Sunday I can have the finished shots. As you can tell, I've haven't been on LJ much, work has been insane!!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


I'm looking forward to it's resurrection!!


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Smitty a amazing finish on the refurb. Now that is one you had to make parts for. You did well. I am impressed.
Grats on a job well done.


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## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Congrat.
Lovely plane and life you have given it back.
Yes it is a wonderful little plane.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Mafe and Super- brought the complete plane to the machine shop when I paid the bill. They figured it would be 'alot of work' making anything with such a tool. Ah, well… Of course they'd say that.


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## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


;-)


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## walden

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


I think you'll like the #50. I have one of the last ones from 1940. It's nice and light, and I use it all the time. It does a pretty good job for through dados too.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Walden, I do like it. Alot. My #45 is having withdrawls….


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## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Did you see my blogs on these:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/15882
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/15855
Perhaps of intrest.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Went to use this No. 50 today and had a problem setting the cutter to depth. It seems the second "skate" of the tool extended lower than the main body of the plane. Meaning, when the cutter was extended just below that 'second skate,' it snagged the workpiece and behaved as if the cutter was being way too aggressive.

Hard to picture, but I tried. This next picture is upside down, but you can see the depth stop, then the main body of the plane, then the second skate that's just visible.










It was less than 1/16th of an inch (as small as my woodworking mind goes in these situations), but made for a huge barrier to progress.

I went to the diamond plates with the skate and got it more in line with about five minutes of back-and-forth on the edge. All is good.










I'm guessing the 'problem' wasn't noticed 9+ years ago when I got the plane, but it might be that this is the first time I've used the narrowest of the cutters.


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## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Strange… I can see it. Hmmmm.


----------



## Ocelot

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


Mafe must have on his special glasses.

I have an English 50 (bright shiny in a crumpled old original box), and I prefer it for making grooves from *my *arsenal (like that word) of grooving things.

It's much lighter and less fuss than the 45. Only lacks the fine adjust on the fence. By the way, with the narrowest cutter, you don't use the 2nd skate. There is a thingy for that. Can't remember.

From PB&G

There is one slight problem with this design of sandwiching the cutter between two castings to hold the cutter in place, and that is that the narrowest two ploughing cutters (1/8" and 3/16") aren't wide enough to be secured in this manner. A holding screw was added when these two cutters were provided starting ca. 1936. The holding screw has a head that measures 3/4" in diameter, and it's this wide head that holds the cutter in place; the sliding section is removed, and the holding screw is substituted. The same wing nut that pulls the sliding section up against the left edge of the cutter also pulls the holding screw's head against the left edge of the cutter. The holding screw is normally MIA.

-Paul


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


How's this? Did a little drawing on the pic, to point to the problem.


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## Ocelot

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


I edited above comment. Maybe that's not the problem you are having. I don't have Mafe's glasses.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


I've added a more specific (edited) pic too; we're crossing in cyberspace! 

Ah, the holding screw… I knew about that thing. But of course, don't have one with my tool (it's a bit older, I guess). The second skate doesn't make it and the main body extend outside the width of the cutter, though. At least not on the cutter I was using.


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## Ocelot

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


You've been around here awhile Smitty. I didn't realize at first that you were updating a 2012 thread about this same tool.

I read that you bought it the other day and then that it was 11 years ago.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!




Sorry to mislead. I do go back and update blogs when the tool discussed has issues, or there's new info to share… Today's challenge was real though!


----------



## Ocelot

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Stanley #50 in the House!*
> 
> Won a Stanley #50 on the 'bay a few weeks ago. It had irons and a user-made box, but alas, a single rod. I sat the body of the plane in Evaporust and began a local search for a #50 rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And it looked pretty good after cleanup, right?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A machine shop in my small town took the challenge, and tonight delivered (to my door, no less!) old and new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's in the box and complete!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it work? Cuts with an iron 'out of the box' show promise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So an agile plough plane is in the house! Very cool when a plan (and plane) comes together!


No need to appologize. Followup is always nice.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*New Connections with the Past*

EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~

Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.



















The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."

And he did.  How cool is that? 

The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.



















So if anybody has a loose one lying around… 

The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.

The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.



















It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.

The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.



















And the teeth seriously need jointing.



















And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…

My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.

I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


----------



## Mosquito

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


Nice! I can certainly relate to getting tools from grandfather/great grandfather… I've got a few of them as well. It's so cool to get them back to work again. Sounds like a good weekend to me


----------



## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


Nice, your collection of cool and interesting stuff grows. Hopefully the missing part for the drill shows up.


----------



## alba

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


Smitty a nice reunion

Just set and sharpen the teeth

I know my Grandfather had some saws and

chisels that were kept for rougher work, those jobs

that could damage a good tool that was used at the

bench. I keep chisels that are ground not honed for

jobs that could cause hours of work on my regular

chisels. Enjoy.

jamie


----------



## bluekingfisher

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


Nice to have some tools which were once put to use earning a livings for an artisan from the past, even more so when the tradesman was your granpa.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


nice find Smitty. That MF looks in really nice shape. To bad its missing the jaw.


----------



## bhog

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


I really like that saying.


----------



## harshest

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


Tools that have a family lineage are a real jem. I have a bunch of old tools (Stanley #6, #71, lufkin 2' rule, try squares, saws, hammers, Montgomery Wards miter box and saw) that belonged to my great grandfather, who was more of a general carpenter than cabinet maker. A few of the tools I have I will never use, like a Stanley 95 butt gauge, but will take to my grave since it is stamped with his initials.

I tend to agree with what you said about having tools perfectly set up or a perfect micro bevel on a chisel (which I don't subscribe to). One of the things I tell myself when working with old tools is "Good enough for HC is good enough for me." *H*enry *C*yrus was the name of my great grandfather.

Here is a pic of his stanley number 6 type 11 I used to flatten my work bench. It is hard to see but the marks are HCM, his initials that he stamped on everything.


----------



## SamuelP

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


Thank you once again Smitty.


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


A lucky score for the weekend visit, I'd say!

Vintage tools from your family are worth so much more than vintage tools bought off kneeBay!

just sayin'


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


Nice Scores Smitty! They are all jems, good luck finding the missing part for the drill.


----------



## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


...tis the Season to be Jolly.

It seems as though you have been visited by the ghost of Christmas' past, [in a good way]. 
Your decision on what to do with their tools is a personal one and will generate the history of your family's past. Your legacy will be rich with memories of you and your 'quieter' tools shaping and building their rememberences of your past accomplishments.

I have a 32"x48" Pegboard dedicated to several hand tools which were my Grand and Great-Grandfathers' 'Users'.
I've not been able to bring myself to remove the patina of sweat, sawdust and finishes of my mentors. So they are proudly displayed prominently above the bench for inspiration, where plans are drawn and morning coffee is enjoyed. They will likely remain there to be dispatched by my sons and grandsons, hopefully to remain fond shop memories. 
My Grandfather's, Grandfather Clock, proudly displayed in my Familyroom, crafted with hand tools, many of which hang on that pegboard.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Grandpa Len.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


Outstanding Smitty. Congratulations on your opportunity to continue the chain.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


Good for Smitty. Good for you.

A pic of the mark per chance? I love those things.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


there is nothing that can beat using old tools that is enherit from family 
though selfmade/restored comes close 
the sandbags is great when working on od peices you can´t clamp down

thanks for sharing

Dennis


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


Thank you to all for your comments, very much appreciated. I've asked my dad to take a look at the saw and give me his thoughts on what the right way forward might be re: cleanup, restore, etc. Len, I know exactly where you're coming from. Jamie's thought might be where this goes, too. There's just not much left of the sawblade at it's end, though. So, we'll see what 'pop-o' has to say and go from there. 

Harsh - Awesome story, awesome picture!


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


Smitty that was a wonderful story and I am sure you will treasure those items for years to come. Stuff like that is irreplaceable.
The condition of the saw shows you they did what they had to.
My grand father built the house my Aunt now lives in. I do not believe he owned a level. There is not a straight line anywhere in it. But it sheds water and looks fine if you dont look to close.
He would re-purpose everything. When an item was done in its lifetime at the job it was meant for he would put it to another use.
We waste and toss to much out these days.
Good luck on the parts find.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


It's a rubber stamp, which my dad now has. Here's the mark inside the drawer of my second bench grandad made, from the old cabinetshop.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


Thanks Smitty. I still contemplate a mark of my own. Again, I fantasize that one day my kids will have an experience just like the one you have just had. Immortality through woodworking.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


I am seeing a message that the image of the stamp was moved or deleted, is that intended?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


Yeah, I decided to pull it. TMI… Sorry.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


I completely understand Smitty, thanks. I snoozed and loss.


----------



## twokidsnosleep

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


It is funny how strongly old tools can link us back to our pasts.
I have some of my dad's tools(and even some artist tools of my mom's) and some quiet times I just sit and look at them, just remembering my parents and my childhood…..


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


Lovely, just lovely!
I have tears of joy in my eyes.
Wonderful tools with wonderful history.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Connections with the Past*
> 
> EDIT: UPDATED to correct PhotoSucket shenanigans, Jan 2018. Smitty~
> 
> Went to see my Aunt and Uncle over the weekend, and came home with a very small, but important, set of items.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white 'blob' at the base of the picture is a sandbag. Doesn't seem like much, but way back when, my grandad had a real cabinetshop, and the sandbag in the picture is a third of three that I now have in my shop, stamped with my grandad's mark. My dad gave me two, and while I was talking with my uncle, I happened to mention LJs and a project post I made some time ago that had sandbags from the cabinetshop. He said, "I've got one of those, I think."
> 
> And he did.  How cool is that?
> 
> The eggbeater is a Millers Falls 2A, with bits in the handle. Uncle said it was his dad's (my grandad). One problem: it's missing one of the three 'jaws' within the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if anybody has a loose one lying around…
> 
> The 4-fold ruler is an excellent Stanley two-footer, and it'll go straight into the tool cabinet. Also grandad's.
> 
> The handsaw is really something. My uncle had it hanging above a workbench (yes, it's got grandad's stamp on it, too), and when I asked about it, Uncle said, "Oh, that was Grandpa's saw." Meaning my great grandpa's saw. First a shot of the tote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's painted brown, and has a missing medallion. The space where the medallion belongs has been carefully filled with water putty. I have a spare 'badge' and will match the parts up soon. Another couple pics to show the condition of the business end of this saw.
> 
> The teeth are very unevenly sharpened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the teeth seriously need jointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the picture doesn't capture how bad it really is. Which brings me to some opine time…
> 
> My grandpa and g-grandpa depended on tools like that saw that now sits in my shop for their livelihood. And one or both of them had to sharpen it. Without the benefit of the web, or DVDs, or weekend training courses. And they didn't do it right. But even with the rusty blade, it cut wood just fine. I'm not saying it doesn't matter, but to me having tools perfectly set up in my shop matters just a little bit less. I'll halt progress in the name of perfection to some degree, but as my dad and I say, I'll settle for excellent more often.
> 
> I don't know what I'll do to remedy this tool's condition… It may get shortened to maybe 20", just to make it more useable. And that'll address alot of the 'curve' that's present. Will I remove the brown paint? That I don't know either. But it'll sit on my workbench for the next several weeks while I get in touch with my family's past, and I'll love it for it's imperfections.


Bought a $5 parts donor 2-A eggbeater off the 'bay, and the chuck was not the same 'model' as what I had. Good news is, the chuck was complete and fit the shaft of the drill. So I'm in business with a working drill.

Pictures later today.

I'll keep looking for the 3rd jaw, of course, but now it's not imperative.

BTW, I contacted Victor Kruc as part of my parts quest; he's the one that does incredible work restoring these beaters to new condition for sale. He was not in business of selling parts, and but for the quick response didn't seem to like that I asked. Oh, well.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*

Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!










EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…

Here's the repaired handle.










EDIT #2:

Donor blade ID'd:










Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):










EDIT: Done, see below.


----------



## BrandonW

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Wow, what a beautiful handle, Smitty. Are you hoping to salvage that one, or use it as a model for a new one? Sorry, I don't have anything constructive to offer by way of identification.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


I intend to repair! I like it alot, the unusual caught my eye. Thanks!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


May have found it on etsy…










Search for 'floral' handsaw found this description:

"saw was made by the E. C. Atkins Co. of Indianapolis, Indiana, in the late 1800's. The rosewood or applewood handle has beautiful floral carvings. The blade measures just over 18"


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Good handle picture from ebay listing…


----------



## bandit571

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Hmmm, close. Yours MIGHT be a later edition. Note the heel of the plate, these two have a cure to them, while yours is dead-ass straight down. I'd say first ebay pix would the "Type #1" second pix would be a "Type #2" and yours MIGHT be a "Type #3". Note the carvings, as well. One seems to be carved in, the other two seem raised up. (shadows, maybe?) I do know that some companies pressed a pattern onto the tote. Stanley ones went into the wood, ala the Keystone brand. Yours being a WS, might have been "pressed" into service.

Otherwise, looks like a match to me…


----------



## bandit571

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.












A WS saw, full size at 26" long, on the left. Tote look close. Cleaned up into an Atkins saw









My "other" Atkins saw ( the one I kept for the shop) plate went right down to a sharp point. Was sharpened so many times, by several people, that there wasn't much left. Wound up cutting about 3-4" off the toe, now its a good "toolbox saw".









Now, IF you should see this guy about and about ( WS &M 28" long) let me know, I sold this little guy for about $30 last summer, after buying it for a buck….


----------



## bluekingfisher

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


I hope you repair it, I would be very interested to see how you could make good with so many cracks and much of the original handle missing.

Good luck with it Smitty


----------



## Boatman53

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Hi Smitty,
How does this compare? I got this over the summer. Still need to clean it up.




























If you want somle measurements let me know. I'm still trying to decide if the handle carving is a carving or stamped in. It looks stamped to me.
Jim


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Jim, that is a BEAUTY! Thanks for the pic, it'll help me shape the upper horn on my refurb (such that it is).

FWIW, I think it's stamped, too.

Mine's missing an original medallion, unfortunately. I have a 26" blade to retrofit to the finished handle, and that's what text I've seen says the saw shipped with.

Thanks again!


----------



## Boatman53

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Smitty…. Would you like me to trace the handle for you, or photograph with a rule so you can scale it?
Jim


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.












I'm close…. (!)


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


I can't believe how much better it looks already. I wasn't sure it was salvageable, but you've made me a believer.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Tools of the trade…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Progress. Time for breakfast…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Need to fix the piece missing at the medallion, but the horn is looking good at this point.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Horn pretty much done, now working on missing piece alongside the medallion.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


its looking better and better.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Thanks, Don! It's about to get the 'finish in a bag' treatment…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.






























Ready for finish.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Bag it !


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Double post.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Stain and oil complete, something to put a sheen on it still to come. And I need to find a blade from stock…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Update in OP above.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Blade in Evaporust!


----------



## Boatman53

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Smitty, if you did all that today you've been busy.
Jim


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


It's been the also-ran weekend project… I'll clean up the blade tomorrow night and hopefully assemble?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


The slit needs another glue up… Adding the medallion opened the split again… But, assy is solid so the glue-up will be later.



















That's all, c'ya later!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


what a difference.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Thanks, Don. A bit darker than I'd have preferred, but a nice saw. Very faint etch on the 'new' blade says it's a Disston, so I have a great user! Actual cuts very well, as-is.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


What is the plan for the slit?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Heavier grit sanding to clean residue, the glue again. If that fails, I don't know…


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Try some epoxy. It'll fill the crack if its not tight, and shouldn't fail after. If you want you can even color it to match the wood.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


I'll have to take a pic of my epoxy choices next time I'm in the local Tru-Valu and get your reco.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


yea, I'm not sure I'd be much help, but I am starting to research myself. This is what I use.

I'd like to find something I can get local as well. But if you want true holding power, I can vouch for the above.


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Smitty the before and after are amazing. Well done refurb. Grats


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Thanks, Super!


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Atkins 'Floral' Handsaw Refurb*
> 
> Ornate carving, not seen it before. Medallion is Warranted Superior, not sure it's original. Repairs will be done, but I'm hoping for a pic of an original. Suggestions? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The saw's ID is clear, refurb steps captured below. This saw will be resurrected one way or another…
> 
> Here's the repaired handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT #2:
> 
> Donor blade ID'd:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, drilled and fit (broken orig. alongside):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Done, see below.


Great restore Smitty. Reminds me that I also have an old saw in need of some tlc.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*A Wedge for a Round*

A very quick installment to confess my sin: I destroyed a wooden, skewed rabbet plane today. Yes, I know, that's bad. Can it be justified, however, by the fact that it was already modified, not complete AND could be used to resurrect two more useful planes? The skewed rabbet has been around for a couple of years, unused. And crooked. Then I picked up four wooden planes last weekend that included a H&R pair. Owners mark and maker stamps matched on three of them, too. But neither the round nor the square rabbet had a wedge, and the profile needed an iron. Something had to give, so I decided to use the body of the old $5 rabbet to make a new wedge to match the one on the round plane.

!







!










I cut the donor on the bandsaw and thinned it with jack planes (#5 and #62).



















With some rasp and just bit of sandpaper work, the wedge and finial were done and I could move to the tip of the wedge for final shaping. Because the wedge of a wooden plane is shaped to eject shavings, it's an important detail. I patterned my 'new' one after the one on the hollow.



















I used my Diamond Edge butt chisels to remove that material, using them as carvers almost. It was fun working with the beech. Neat stuff!

With all the shaping of the wedge complete, there's one question to ask: Does the plane work? Yes!










And the 'family' is together and complete.



















Is it perfect? Well, no. But it's right, and makes the tool useable. My first attempt, too. So I'm happy. $20 into wooden moulders, and two complete H&R users so far. Next is to use the iron from the donor rabbet in the profile moulder shown on the left, above. It came without an iron, but I hope to reshape the donor into the right profile to get to three planes. More on that later…

As always, thanks for looking!


----------



## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wedge for a Round*
> 
> A very quick installment to confess my sin: I destroyed a wooden, skewed rabbet plane today. Yes, I know, that's bad. Can it be justified, however, by the fact that it was already modified, not complete AND could be used to resurrect two more useful planes? The skewed rabbet has been around for a couple of years, unused. And crooked. Then I picked up four wooden planes last weekend that included a H&R pair. Owners mark and maker stamps matched on three of them, too. But neither the round nor the square rabbet had a wedge, and the profile needed an iron. Something had to give, so I decided to use the body of the old $5 rabbet to make a new wedge to match the one on the round plane.
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the donor on the bandsaw and thinned it with jack planes (#5 and #62).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some rasp and just bit of sandpaper work, the wedge and finial were done and I could move to the tip of the wedge for final shaping. Because the wedge of a wooden plane is shaped to eject shavings, it's an important detail. I patterned my 'new' one after the one on the hollow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my Diamond Edge butt chisels to remove that material, using them as carvers almost. It was fun working with the beech. Neat stuff!
> 
> With all the shaping of the wedge complete, there's one question to ask: Does the plane work? Yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the 'family' is together and complete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it perfect? Well, no. But it's right, and makes the tool useable. My first attempt, too. So I'm happy. $20 into wooden moulders, and two complete H&R users so far. Next is to use the iron from the donor rabbet in the profile moulder shown on the left, above. It came without an iron, but I hope to reshape the donor into the right profile to get to three planes. More on that later…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Smitty,

Nice refurb on the 'round', albeit cannibalistic, being a family member and all.

...but hey if you're gonna' make an omelette, you gotta break some eggs…


----------



## Mosquito

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wedge for a Round*
> 
> A very quick installment to confess my sin: I destroyed a wooden, skewed rabbet plane today. Yes, I know, that's bad. Can it be justified, however, by the fact that it was already modified, not complete AND could be used to resurrect two more useful planes? The skewed rabbet has been around for a couple of years, unused. And crooked. Then I picked up four wooden planes last weekend that included a H&R pair. Owners mark and maker stamps matched on three of them, too. But neither the round nor the square rabbet had a wedge, and the profile needed an iron. Something had to give, so I decided to use the body of the old $5 rabbet to make a new wedge to match the one on the round plane.
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the donor on the bandsaw and thinned it with jack planes (#5 and #62).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some rasp and just bit of sandpaper work, the wedge and finial were done and I could move to the tip of the wedge for final shaping. Because the wedge of a wooden plane is shaped to eject shavings, it's an important detail. I patterned my 'new' one after the one on the hollow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my Diamond Edge butt chisels to remove that material, using them as carvers almost. It was fun working with the beech. Neat stuff!
> 
> With all the shaping of the wedge complete, there's one question to ask: Does the plane work? Yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the 'family' is together and complete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it perfect? Well, no. But it's right, and makes the tool useable. My first attempt, too. So I'm happy. $20 into wooden moulders, and two complete H&R users so far. Next is to use the iron from the donor rabbet in the profile moulder shown on the left, above. It came without an iron, but I hope to reshape the donor into the right profile to get to three planes. More on that later…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


You and that #62…

You going to try to age the wedge? It looks great, but new…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wedge for a Round*
> 
> A very quick installment to confess my sin: I destroyed a wooden, skewed rabbet plane today. Yes, I know, that's bad. Can it be justified, however, by the fact that it was already modified, not complete AND could be used to resurrect two more useful planes? The skewed rabbet has been around for a couple of years, unused. And crooked. Then I picked up four wooden planes last weekend that included a H&R pair. Owners mark and maker stamps matched on three of them, too. But neither the round nor the square rabbet had a wedge, and the profile needed an iron. Something had to give, so I decided to use the body of the old $5 rabbet to make a new wedge to match the one on the round plane.
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the donor on the bandsaw and thinned it with jack planes (#5 and #62).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some rasp and just bit of sandpaper work, the wedge and finial were done and I could move to the tip of the wedge for final shaping. Because the wedge of a wooden plane is shaped to eject shavings, it's an important detail. I patterned my 'new' one after the one on the hollow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my Diamond Edge butt chisels to remove that material, using them as carvers almost. It was fun working with the beech. Neat stuff!
> 
> With all the shaping of the wedge complete, there's one question to ask: Does the plane work? Yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the 'family' is together and complete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it perfect? Well, no. But it's right, and makes the tool useable. My first attempt, too. So I'm happy. $20 into wooden moulders, and two complete H&R users so far. Next is to use the iron from the donor rabbet in the profile moulder shown on the left, above. It came without an iron, but I hope to reshape the donor into the right profile to get to three planes. More on that later…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


And I need another wedge out of the 'new' material, too. A good reddish stain would age it, I suppose. Time to experiment when both fabs are done.


----------



## bhog

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wedge for a Round*
> 
> A very quick installment to confess my sin: I destroyed a wooden, skewed rabbet plane today. Yes, I know, that's bad. Can it be justified, however, by the fact that it was already modified, not complete AND could be used to resurrect two more useful planes? The skewed rabbet has been around for a couple of years, unused. And crooked. Then I picked up four wooden planes last weekend that included a H&R pair. Owners mark and maker stamps matched on three of them, too. But neither the round nor the square rabbet had a wedge, and the profile needed an iron. Something had to give, so I decided to use the body of the old $5 rabbet to make a new wedge to match the one on the round plane.
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the donor on the bandsaw and thinned it with jack planes (#5 and #62).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some rasp and just bit of sandpaper work, the wedge and finial were done and I could move to the tip of the wedge for final shaping. Because the wedge of a wooden plane is shaped to eject shavings, it's an important detail. I patterned my 'new' one after the one on the hollow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my Diamond Edge butt chisels to remove that material, using them as carvers almost. It was fun working with the beech. Neat stuff!
> 
> With all the shaping of the wedge complete, there's one question to ask: Does the plane work? Yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the 'family' is together and complete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it perfect? Well, no. But it's right, and makes the tool useable. My first attempt, too. So I'm happy. $20 into wooden moulders, and two complete H&R users so far. Next is to use the iron from the donor rabbet in the profile moulder shown on the left, above. It came without an iron, but I hope to reshape the donor into the right profile to get to three planes. More on that later…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Nice Smitt.I dont know if I would have been able to cut into the rabbet plane, I can sometimes be "chicken".


----------



## Arminius

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wedge for a Round*
> 
> A very quick installment to confess my sin: I destroyed a wooden, skewed rabbet plane today. Yes, I know, that's bad. Can it be justified, however, by the fact that it was already modified, not complete AND could be used to resurrect two more useful planes? The skewed rabbet has been around for a couple of years, unused. And crooked. Then I picked up four wooden planes last weekend that included a H&R pair. Owners mark and maker stamps matched on three of them, too. But neither the round nor the square rabbet had a wedge, and the profile needed an iron. Something had to give, so I decided to use the body of the old $5 rabbet to make a new wedge to match the one on the round plane.
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the donor on the bandsaw and thinned it with jack planes (#5 and #62).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some rasp and just bit of sandpaper work, the wedge and finial were done and I could move to the tip of the wedge for final shaping. Because the wedge of a wooden plane is shaped to eject shavings, it's an important detail. I patterned my 'new' one after the one on the hollow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my Diamond Edge butt chisels to remove that material, using them as carvers almost. It was fun working with the beech. Neat stuff!
> 
> With all the shaping of the wedge complete, there's one question to ask: Does the plane work? Yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the 'family' is together and complete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it perfect? Well, no. But it's right, and makes the tool useable. My first attempt, too. So I'm happy. $20 into wooden moulders, and two complete H&R users so far. Next is to use the iron from the donor rabbet in the profile moulder shown on the left, above. It came without an iron, but I hope to reshape the donor into the right profile to get to three planes. More on that later…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Dang, neanderthals got snuff blogs.

Seriously, nice work - I probably would have looked around for some other stock, but if the plane had already been modified beyond restoration, why not?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wedge for a Round*
> 
> A very quick installment to confess my sin: I destroyed a wooden, skewed rabbet plane today. Yes, I know, that's bad. Can it be justified, however, by the fact that it was already modified, not complete AND could be used to resurrect two more useful planes? The skewed rabbet has been around for a couple of years, unused. And crooked. Then I picked up four wooden planes last weekend that included a H&R pair. Owners mark and maker stamps matched on three of them, too. But neither the round nor the square rabbet had a wedge, and the profile needed an iron. Something had to give, so I decided to use the body of the old $5 rabbet to make a new wedge to match the one on the round plane.
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the donor on the bandsaw and thinned it with jack planes (#5 and #62).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some rasp and just bit of sandpaper work, the wedge and finial were done and I could move to the tip of the wedge for final shaping. Because the wedge of a wooden plane is shaped to eject shavings, it's an important detail. I patterned my 'new' one after the one on the hollow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my Diamond Edge butt chisels to remove that material, using them as carvers almost. It was fun working with the beech. Neat stuff!
> 
> With all the shaping of the wedge complete, there's one question to ask: Does the plane work? Yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the 'family' is together and complete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it perfect? Well, no. But it's right, and makes the tool useable. My first attempt, too. So I'm happy. $20 into wooden moulders, and two complete H&R users so far. Next is to use the iron from the donor rabbet in the profile moulder shown on the left, above. It came without an iron, but I hope to reshape the donor into the right profile to get to three planes. More on that later…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Arm, yes, I would not have used the donor (and actually didn't). At least this way I have good users. H&R tools are much higher on the food chain than a rabbet, in that I have very functional shoulder planes and a #278, for example. I know what you mean, though.

B, I thought about it for days but decided a tool never used in any way is a waste. It was crooked and cracked, and I jointed the sides some time ago in an attempt to make it usuable. Didn't have the desired effect.


----------



## Dal300

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wedge for a Round*
> 
> A very quick installment to confess my sin: I destroyed a wooden, skewed rabbet plane today. Yes, I know, that's bad. Can it be justified, however, by the fact that it was already modified, not complete AND could be used to resurrect two more useful planes? The skewed rabbet has been around for a couple of years, unused. And crooked. Then I picked up four wooden planes last weekend that included a H&R pair. Owners mark and maker stamps matched on three of them, too. But neither the round nor the square rabbet had a wedge, and the profile needed an iron. Something had to give, so I decided to use the body of the old $5 rabbet to make a new wedge to match the one on the round plane.
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the donor on the bandsaw and thinned it with jack planes (#5 and #62).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some rasp and just bit of sandpaper work, the wedge and finial were done and I could move to the tip of the wedge for final shaping. Because the wedge of a wooden plane is shaped to eject shavings, it's an important detail. I patterned my 'new' one after the one on the hollow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my Diamond Edge butt chisels to remove that material, using them as carvers almost. It was fun working with the beech. Neat stuff!
> 
> With all the shaping of the wedge complete, there's one question to ask: Does the plane work? Yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the 'family' is together and complete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it perfect? Well, no. But it's right, and makes the tool useable. My first attempt, too. So I'm happy. $20 into wooden moulders, and two complete H&R users so far. Next is to use the iron from the donor rabbet in the profile moulder shown on the left, above. It came without an iron, but I hope to reshape the donor into the right profile to get to three planes. More on that later…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Smitty, this is just a question on orientation, but I need to ask!

Most of the wooden moulding planes I've seen have a wedge with the grain sloping down to the pinnacle of the wedge.

I was taught that if the grain went the other direction ie: against the pinnacle, it could cause chatter and make use a lot rougher.

How did this work out for you? I have a couple of wooden moulders that I want to rehab when I get time, but it will be awhile before I get to them.

Oh, Yeah, I have some antique oak chunks that would make great wedges, and a little research on the movie set boards can show you how to age the wood like the original!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wedge for a Round*
> 
> A very quick installment to confess my sin: I destroyed a wooden, skewed rabbet plane today. Yes, I know, that's bad. Can it be justified, however, by the fact that it was already modified, not complete AND could be used to resurrect two more useful planes? The skewed rabbet has been around for a couple of years, unused. And crooked. Then I picked up four wooden planes last weekend that included a H&R pair. Owners mark and maker stamps matched on three of them, too. But neither the round nor the square rabbet had a wedge, and the profile needed an iron. Something had to give, so I decided to use the body of the old $5 rabbet to make a new wedge to match the one on the round plane.
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the donor on the bandsaw and thinned it with jack planes (#5 and #62).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some rasp and just bit of sandpaper work, the wedge and finial were done and I could move to the tip of the wedge for final shaping. Because the wedge of a wooden plane is shaped to eject shavings, it's an important detail. I patterned my 'new' one after the one on the hollow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my Diamond Edge butt chisels to remove that material, using them as carvers almost. It was fun working with the beech. Neat stuff!
> 
> With all the shaping of the wedge complete, there's one question to ask: Does the plane work? Yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the 'family' is together and complete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it perfect? Well, no. But it's right, and makes the tool useable. My first attempt, too. So I'm happy. $20 into wooden moulders, and two complete H&R users so far. Next is to use the iron from the donor rabbet in the profile moulder shown on the left, above. It came without an iron, but I hope to reshape the donor into the right profile to get to three planes. More on that later…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Dallas, I consider myself schooled… What you say makes total sense, of course. I'm looking at the pic if the pattern piece, though, and it looks like that grain orientation is less than optimal, too.

Your lesson is learned here, thanks for speaking up!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Flea Mkt Finds*










26" DE (Diamond Edge) handsaw, 7/8" Round Moulder, Pair 'o Clamps, 
Folding Rules (inside), Bits and Brace, Hammer

New toys for $30 total… Merry Christmas, Early!


----------



## BrandonW

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Flea Mkt Finds*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 26" DE (Diamond Edge) handsaw, 7/8" Round Moulder, Pair 'o Clamps,
> Folding Rules (inside), Bits and Brace, Hammer
> 
> New toys for $30 total… Merry Christmas, Early!


Merry Christmas indeed. Congrats to you and your new toys.


----------



## 33706

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Flea Mkt Finds*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 26" DE (Diamond Edge) handsaw, 7/8" Round Moulder, Pair 'o Clamps,
> Folding Rules (inside), Bits and Brace, Hammer
> 
> New toys for $30 total… Merry Christmas, Early!


Nice Score! Nothing like bringing home an armload of treasures, and adding them to your shop. It's the right thing to do.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Flea Mkt Finds*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 26" DE (Diamond Edge) handsaw, 7/8" Round Moulder, Pair 'o Clamps,
> Folding Rules (inside), Bits and Brace, Hammer
> 
> New toys for $30 total… Merry Christmas, Early!


Congratulations. That looks like a pretty nice, older hammer too.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Flea Mkt Finds*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 26" DE (Diamond Edge) handsaw, 7/8" Round Moulder, Pair 'o Clamps,
> Folding Rules (inside), Bits and Brace, Hammer
> 
> New toys for $30 total… Merry Christmas, Early!


sweet!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Flea Mkt Finds*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 26" DE (Diamond Edge) handsaw, 7/8" Round Moulder, Pair 'o Clamps,
> Folding Rules (inside), Bits and Brace, Hammer
> 
> New toys for $30 total… Merry Christmas, Early!


Sweet finds. I picked up an atkin saw handle today in excellent shape we may need to talk about.


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Flea Mkt Finds*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 26" DE (Diamond Edge) handsaw, 7/8" Round Moulder, Pair 'o Clamps,
> Folding Rules (inside), Bits and Brace, Hammer
> 
> New toys for $30 total… Merry Christmas, Early!


Thats a nice haul for 30 beans. Im all ready looking forward to the spring for some early season rust hunting.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Flea Mkt Finds*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 26" DE (Diamond Edge) handsaw, 7/8" Round Moulder, Pair 'o Clamps,
> Folding Rules (inside), Bits and Brace, Hammer
> 
> New toys for $30 total… Merry Christmas, Early!


Brace a POS, from Japan. Didn't make it to the shop. 7/8" Round is one from the 'wants' list. Hammer so cute, and at .50 couldn't turn it down.

Thanks, Fellas!


----------



## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Flea Mkt Finds*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 26" DE (Diamond Edge) handsaw, 7/8" Round Moulder, Pair 'o Clamps,
> Folding Rules (inside), Bits and Brace, Hammer
> 
> New toys for $30 total… Merry Christmas, Early!


Well done Smitty. Merry Christmas, a little early.


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Flea Mkt Finds*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 26" DE (Diamond Edge) handsaw, 7/8" Round Moulder, Pair 'o Clamps,
> Folding Rules (inside), Bits and Brace, Hammer
> 
> New toys for $30 total… Merry Christmas, Early!


Whenever I go to a car boot sale where I live, all they seem to have is a box of old spanners. Good haul there Smitty.


----------



## racerglen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Flea Mkt Finds*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 26" DE (Diamond Edge) handsaw, 7/8" Round Moulder, Pair 'o Clamps,
> Folding Rules (inside), Bits and Brace, Hammer
> 
> New toys for $30 total… Merry Christmas, Early!


Nice score Smitty !


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Flea Mkt Finds*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 26" DE (Diamond Edge) handsaw, 7/8" Round Moulder, Pair 'o Clamps,
> Folding Rules (inside), Bits and Brace, Hammer
> 
> New toys for $30 total… Merry Christmas, Early!


Spammers, love it!

Thanks, everyone…


----------



## Mosquito

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Flea Mkt Finds*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 26" DE (Diamond Edge) handsaw, 7/8" Round Moulder, Pair 'o Clamps,
> Folding Rules (inside), Bits and Brace, Hammer
> 
> New toys for $30 total… Merry Christmas, Early!


Very nice


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Flea Mkt Finds*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 26" DE (Diamond Edge) handsaw, 7/8" Round Moulder, Pair 'o Clamps,
> Folding Rules (inside), Bits and Brace, Hammer
> 
> New toys for $30 total… Merry Christmas, Early!


I can never find deals like that. Nice catch Smitty. I like it.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*A Review of Folding 'Zig Zag' Rulers*

Double post from another blog topic, but wanted to put it somewhere I could readily add to later. Here goes!

A very incomplete review of folding rules, and there are a number of variations. The first picture shows a vintage stainless steel Lufkin Rule Co. No. 1174 EM. It's an outside measure rule for English, and inside measure for metrics. Don't know how old it is.



















Another rule in the picture is the Lufkin Two Way, Model 966. It's an inside rule through and through, and reads from left to right and right to left as you may need it. Never read numbers upside down again! Really cool, and really hard to find.



















The next pic shows the problem of the 066F model Lufkin; it's an inside rule too, but reads upside down if you're measuring from the right end of a project.










Last up is a real outside measure ruler. The Stanley #426. Aluminum, cool looking, but very impractical.










Finally, a trick that my grandad used that has survived to this day: filing a small notch in the brass ends of stick rulers provides for a very handy nitche for the pencil tip to ride in when striking a line (like using a panel gauge).










That's all I wanted to add to this topic. Thanks for looking!


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Review of Folding 'Zig Zag' Rulers*
> 
> Double post from another blog topic, but wanted to put it somewhere I could readily add to later. Here goes!
> 
> A very incomplete review of folding rules, and there are a number of variations. The first picture shows a vintage stainless steel Lufkin Rule Co. No. 1174 EM. It's an outside measure rule for English, and inside measure for metrics. Don't know how old it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another rule in the picture is the Lufkin Two Way, Model 966. It's an inside rule through and through, and reads from left to right and right to left as you may need it. Never read numbers upside down again! Really cool, and really hard to find.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next pic shows the problem of the 066F model Lufkin; it's an inside rule too, but reads upside down if you're measuring from the right end of a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last up is a real outside measure ruler. The Stanley #426. Aluminum, cool looking, but very impractical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a trick that my grandad used that has survived to this day: filing a small notch in the brass ends of stick rulers provides for a very handy nitche for the pencil tip to ride in when striking a line (like using a panel gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all I wanted to add to this topic. Thanks for looking!


Smitty some fine examples. That old Stanley is different. I have never seen one. You have a great collection .
I will have to remember the notch, thats a nice tip.
I have about ten or so folding rulz and find myself going to that "one" ruler. I still use my 2 foot most of the time.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Review of Folding 'Zig Zag' Rulers*
> 
> Double post from another blog topic, but wanted to put it somewhere I could readily add to later. Here goes!
> 
> A very incomplete review of folding rules, and there are a number of variations. The first picture shows a vintage stainless steel Lufkin Rule Co. No. 1174 EM. It's an outside measure rule for English, and inside measure for metrics. Don't know how old it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another rule in the picture is the Lufkin Two Way, Model 966. It's an inside rule through and through, and reads from left to right and right to left as you may need it. Never read numbers upside down again! Really cool, and really hard to find.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next pic shows the problem of the 066F model Lufkin; it's an inside rule too, but reads upside down if you're measuring from the right end of a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last up is a real outside measure ruler. The Stanley #426. Aluminum, cool looking, but very impractical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a trick that my grandad used that has survived to this day: filing a small notch in the brass ends of stick rulers provides for a very handy nitche for the pencil tip to ride in when striking a line (like using a panel gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all I wanted to add to this topic. Thanks for looking!


Smitty, I'll take a few shots of what I have. I don't reach for them much. I'm more of a tape measure guy.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Review of Folding 'Zig Zag' Rulers*
> 
> Double post from another blog topic, but wanted to put it somewhere I could readily add to later. Here goes!
> 
> A very incomplete review of folding rules, and there are a number of variations. The first picture shows a vintage stainless steel Lufkin Rule Co. No. 1174 EM. It's an outside measure rule for English, and inside measure for metrics. Don't know how old it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another rule in the picture is the Lufkin Two Way, Model 966. It's an inside rule through and through, and reads from left to right and right to left as you may need it. Never read numbers upside down again! Really cool, and really hard to find.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next pic shows the problem of the 066F model Lufkin; it's an inside rule too, but reads upside down if you're measuring from the right end of a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last up is a real outside measure ruler. The Stanley #426. Aluminum, cool looking, but very impractical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a trick that my grandad used that has survived to this day: filing a small notch in the brass ends of stick rulers provides for a very handy nitche for the pencil tip to ride in when striking a line (like using a panel gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all I wanted to add to this topic. Thanks for looking!


Thanks Smitty.

Little tips like the notch are pure gold and are too often overlooked.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Review of Folding 'Zig Zag' Rulers*
> 
> Double post from another blog topic, but wanted to put it somewhere I could readily add to later. Here goes!
> 
> A very incomplete review of folding rules, and there are a number of variations. The first picture shows a vintage stainless steel Lufkin Rule Co. No. 1174 EM. It's an outside measure rule for English, and inside measure for metrics. Don't know how old it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another rule in the picture is the Lufkin Two Way, Model 966. It's an inside rule through and through, and reads from left to right and right to left as you may need it. Never read numbers upside down again! Really cool, and really hard to find.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next pic shows the problem of the 066F model Lufkin; it's an inside rule too, but reads upside down if you're measuring from the right end of a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last up is a real outside measure ruler. The Stanley #426. Aluminum, cool looking, but very impractical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a trick that my grandad used that has survived to this day: filing a small notch in the brass ends of stick rulers provides for a very handy nitche for the pencil tip to ride in when striking a line (like using a panel gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all I wanted to add to this topic. Thanks for looking!


Nice, and nice tip. I picked up an old folding rule the other day at an antique shop and have been using it a lot. It is white and just says made in USA on it. I'll have to show it to you.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Review of Folding 'Zig Zag' Rulers*
> 
> Double post from another blog topic, but wanted to put it somewhere I could readily add to later. Here goes!
> 
> A very incomplete review of folding rules, and there are a number of variations. The first picture shows a vintage stainless steel Lufkin Rule Co. No. 1174 EM. It's an outside measure rule for English, and inside measure for metrics. Don't know how old it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another rule in the picture is the Lufkin Two Way, Model 966. It's an inside rule through and through, and reads from left to right and right to left as you may need it. Never read numbers upside down again! Really cool, and really hard to find.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next pic shows the problem of the 066F model Lufkin; it's an inside rule too, but reads upside down if you're measuring from the right end of a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last up is a real outside measure ruler. The Stanley #426. Aluminum, cool looking, but very impractical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a trick that my grandad used that has survived to this day: filing a small notch in the brass ends of stick rulers provides for a very handy nitche for the pencil tip to ride in when striking a line (like using a panel gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all I wanted to add to this topic. Thanks for looking!


Maur, welcome to the world of stick rules! Doing diagonal measures during glue up, from inside corners? Stick rule. Don't have a panel gauge? Stick rule. Need a measuring tool that lays flat and collapses easily? Stick rule.

Love these bad boys.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Review of Folding 'Zig Zag' Rulers*
> 
> Double post from another blog topic, but wanted to put it somewhere I could readily add to later. Here goes!
> 
> A very incomplete review of folding rules, and there are a number of variations. The first picture shows a vintage stainless steel Lufkin Rule Co. No. 1174 EM. It's an outside measure rule for English, and inside measure for metrics. Don't know how old it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another rule in the picture is the Lufkin Two Way, Model 966. It's an inside rule through and through, and reads from left to right and right to left as you may need it. Never read numbers upside down again! Really cool, and really hard to find.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next pic shows the problem of the 066F model Lufkin; it's an inside rule too, but reads upside down if you're measuring from the right end of a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last up is a real outside measure ruler. The Stanley #426. Aluminum, cool looking, but very impractical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a trick that my grandad used that has survived to this day: filing a small notch in the brass ends of stick rulers provides for a very handy nitche for the pencil tip to ride in when striking a line (like using a panel gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all I wanted to add to this topic. Thanks for looking!


Oh, and yes! Need pictures, Don and Maur!

Thanks, Super!


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Review of Folding 'Zig Zag' Rulers*
> 
> Double post from another blog topic, but wanted to put it somewhere I could readily add to later. Here goes!
> 
> A very incomplete review of folding rules, and there are a number of variations. The first picture shows a vintage stainless steel Lufkin Rule Co. No. 1174 EM. It's an outside measure rule for English, and inside measure for metrics. Don't know how old it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another rule in the picture is the Lufkin Two Way, Model 966. It's an inside rule through and through, and reads from left to right and right to left as you may need it. Never read numbers upside down again! Really cool, and really hard to find.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next pic shows the problem of the 066F model Lufkin; it's an inside rule too, but reads upside down if you're measuring from the right end of a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last up is a real outside measure ruler. The Stanley #426. Aluminum, cool looking, but very impractical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a trick that my grandad used that has survived to this day: filing a small notch in the brass ends of stick rulers provides for a very handy nitche for the pencil tip to ride in when striking a line (like using a panel gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all I wanted to add to this topic. Thanks for looking!


The notch will be added shortly! Amazing how well it has held up. The joints are all tight and work great.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Review of Folding 'Zig Zag' Rulers*
> 
> Double post from another blog topic, but wanted to put it somewhere I could readily add to later. Here goes!
> 
> A very incomplete review of folding rules, and there are a number of variations. The first picture shows a vintage stainless steel Lufkin Rule Co. No. 1174 EM. It's an outside measure rule for English, and inside measure for metrics. Don't know how old it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another rule in the picture is the Lufkin Two Way, Model 966. It's an inside rule through and through, and reads from left to right and right to left as you may need it. Never read numbers upside down again! Really cool, and really hard to find.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next pic shows the problem of the 066F model Lufkin; it's an inside rule too, but reads upside down if you're measuring from the right end of a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last up is a real outside measure ruler. The Stanley #426. Aluminum, cool looking, but very impractical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a trick that my grandad used that has survived to this day: filing a small notch in the brass ends of stick rulers provides for a very handy nitche for the pencil tip to ride in when striking a line (like using a panel gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all I wanted to add to this topic. Thanks for looking!


Markings on one side only. That's an economy model I've not seen before! Thanks for the pic! Clamp the opened rule in the vice with only an inch or two sticking up when filing. Helps draw a single spot vs. skirting across the entire brass edge.

EDIT: And I didn't mean to imply it's not a good tool by saying economy. Sorry, Maur!


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Review of Folding 'Zig Zag' Rulers*
> 
> Double post from another blog topic, but wanted to put it somewhere I could readily add to later. Here goes!
> 
> A very incomplete review of folding rules, and there are a number of variations. The first picture shows a vintage stainless steel Lufkin Rule Co. No. 1174 EM. It's an outside measure rule for English, and inside measure for metrics. Don't know how old it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another rule in the picture is the Lufkin Two Way, Model 966. It's an inside rule through and through, and reads from left to right and right to left as you may need it. Never read numbers upside down again! Really cool, and really hard to find.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next pic shows the problem of the 066F model Lufkin; it's an inside rule too, but reads upside down if you're measuring from the right end of a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last up is a real outside measure ruler. The Stanley #426. Aluminum, cool looking, but very impractical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a trick that my grandad used that has survived to this day: filing a small notch in the brass ends of stick rulers provides for a very handy nitche for the pencil tip to ride in when striking a line (like using a panel gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all I wanted to add to this topic. Thanks for looking!


No offense taken. Nah, this one is double sided, not sure if that means anything.

I'm thinking I'll use a triangle file.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Review of Folding 'Zig Zag' Rulers*
> 
> Double post from another blog topic, but wanted to put it somewhere I could readily add to later. Here goes!
> 
> A very incomplete review of folding rules, and there are a number of variations. The first picture shows a vintage stainless steel Lufkin Rule Co. No. 1174 EM. It's an outside measure rule for English, and inside measure for metrics. Don't know how old it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another rule in the picture is the Lufkin Two Way, Model 966. It's an inside rule through and through, and reads from left to right and right to left as you may need it. Never read numbers upside down again! Really cool, and really hard to find.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next pic shows the problem of the 066F model Lufkin; it's an inside rule too, but reads upside down if you're measuring from the right end of a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last up is a real outside measure ruler. The Stanley #426. Aluminum, cool looking, but very impractical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a trick that my grandad used that has survived to this day: filing a small notch in the brass ends of stick rulers provides for a very handy nitche for the pencil tip to ride in when striking a line (like using a panel gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all I wanted to add to this topic. Thanks for looking!


Yep, triangle works!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Review of Folding 'Zig Zag' Rulers*
> 
> Double post from another blog topic, but wanted to put it somewhere I could readily add to later. Here goes!
> 
> A very incomplete review of folding rules, and there are a number of variations. The first picture shows a vintage stainless steel Lufkin Rule Co. No. 1174 EM. It's an outside measure rule for English, and inside measure for metrics. Don't know how old it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another rule in the picture is the Lufkin Two Way, Model 966. It's an inside rule through and through, and reads from left to right and right to left as you may need it. Never read numbers upside down again! Really cool, and really hard to find.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next pic shows the problem of the 066F model Lufkin; it's an inside rule too, but reads upside down if you're measuring from the right end of a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last up is a real outside measure ruler. The Stanley #426. Aluminum, cool looking, but very impractical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a trick that my grandad used that has survived to this day: filing a small notch in the brass ends of stick rulers provides for a very handy nitche for the pencil tip to ride in when striking a line (like using a panel gauge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all I wanted to add to this topic. Thanks for looking!


this is what I could find. One basswood Stanley with some brass trim, a lufkin 32" and two no names.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Review of Folding 'Zig Zag' Rulers*
> 
> Double post from another blog topic, but wanted to put it somewhere I could readily add to later. Here goes!
> 
> A very incomplete review of folding rules, and there are a number of variations. The first picture shows a vintage stainless steel Lufkin Rule Co. No. 1174 EM. It's an outside measure rule for English, and inside measure for metrics. Don't know how old it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another rule in the picture is the Lufkin Two Way, Model 966. It's an inside rule through and through, and reads from left to right and right to left as you may need it. Never read numbers upside down again! Really cool, and really hard to find.
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> Last up is a real outside measure ruler. The Stanley #426. Aluminum, cool looking, but very impractical.
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> Finally, a trick that my grandad used that has survived to this day: filing a small notch in the brass ends of stick rulers provides for a very handy nitche for the pencil tip to ride in when striking a line (like using a panel gauge).
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> That's all I wanted to add to this topic. Thanks for looking!


Another Lufkin Two Way, Model 966 rescued from the antique mall today. $3 and it called my name. Like clamps, one can never have too may Two Way rules.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*How Do I Find These Things?*

My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:














































The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times! 

EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


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## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


That looks like a walk in the park vs the last one. You are swimming in chests, boxes and cabinets. Plans?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Oh, and a Shapleigh No. 457 lumber pencil!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


No plan for this one. It may actually be a 'sell' piece, but I don't know yet. Still enjoying it. Have to brush off the cobwebs and search my inventory for a key that works.

The inside walls of the chest have gentle undulations made only by a lightly cambered smoothing plane. Hardly noticeable, but definite. Very cool, I love it.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


How Do I Find These Things?

You can't ask the question without the answer!!


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## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Smitty, Ya gotta go for it. It's got good bones and proportions and will restore well.

Dumpster!! idiots!
kevin


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## iceman50

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


U have nose for unique finds. Anyone else sees only junk. U see and make treasures. Congrats on a great find should probably go to ur son. Ha


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## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


How cool is that? Good for you Smit.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Lock missing an inside component, does not work. Walls of chest tapped up tighter than a drum, easy-peasy. This chest needs next to nothing in work, beyond cleaning.

I may put a clear-coat of some kind on it and call it done.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Inside the lid.


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## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Is that fir? Do you know what it is made of?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


SPF - Spruce, pine, fir. Something that is 'white wood,' and I'd guess white pine. But I don't know for sure.


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## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Are those planing marks inside the lid or grain? It is hard to tell.


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## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Well they say good things happen to good people Smitty, so I guess it's true. What a great find and hardly any work to do to make it good. Remind me how much you paid for it again? Oh that's right, you got it for nothing. I hate you! )

It would probably be worth replacing the lock if you're thinking of selling it, assuming you can find a suitable replacement.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Scotty - yes, that what I tried to capture. Scallops aren't along the grain lines, and are even in a non-pattern, too. Not how we're told to do it…

There was a second one that was termite infested and I've busted it up for materials. Solid brass hinges with a "615" cast into each wing, one lock of two remains (also broken inside), and some of wood I'll keep. Very white wood, very dense. Almost maple in quality. Definitely not poplar but the grain, when it's slit reminds me of that. No distinct smell. But 7/8" thick, the back panel is. I did like the detail of matching the spine of hinges to the bead detail.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Oh, this chest was nailed together with cut nails. And I've salvaged the cast-iron handles, too.


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## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


*"How Do I Find These Things?"*

I beleive there are 'forces' in nature which seek to match opportunities to capabilities.

You sir, in the true spirit of the LumberJocks credo, share your abilities in order to promote woodworking and craftsmanship thru your Blogs and that has placed you in the path of this 'force'.

Many, have and will, benefit from the opportunities which present themselves to you.

Thanks for caring, thanks for sharing thru the extra efforts of your informative presentations.

"May the Force be with you".

Best Regards. - Grandpa Len.


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## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


+1 on what GrandpaLen said so well. I'm always inspired by a Smitty blog.


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## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


WARNING: Bad language. This comment is not at all as wholesome as GrandpaLen's but still (in)appropriate.

Smitty - I think that you could make a woodworking parody of this Macklemore vid. At least you should have a cameo appearance.


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## Mosquito

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Nice Smitty. When Richard and I were at the MW-TCA tool meet last month there was a really cool tool chest there for $150. It was quite large, though…


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## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Killer find there Smitty. If youre interested ive got some antique locksets and keys that i pulled from my grandfathers hardware stash years ago. Just let a brotha know. As always ill be following along.

I also want the long story of how your son came upon this beauty. Stop teasin.


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## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


*Scott* - That would be so funny if Smitty did a parody of that video, especially if he did it wearing a onesie.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


I'll put that parody on the compilation album feat. your ukelele number, Brit.


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## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


You hum it Smitty - I'll play it brother.


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## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Smitty you find all the cool stuff.
Keep us posted.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


This also is part of the salvage: another walnut table.

This one much simpler that most. Top is 7/8" thick, legs aren't walnut and one is missing it's end to termites. To get it to stand up, I used a 1/2" forstner bit, some dowel rod, and a donor chunck of oak leg for a fix. This, until I think of something better.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


This, from Van *************************, might be the answer to get four legs that match. But at $17 ea, doesn't make economic sense.


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## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


You wouldn't pay $68 dollars for a solid walnut table on brass castors?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


I'd have to sell it for that OR I could take it apart and get a bunch of free walnut for projects…

Because I don't wish to decide right away (and maybe choose wrong!), and because I've got more projects than I need open before opening another, I've patched it and will move on for now.

Good point, though. I think it could bring $125, if I'd refinish it right…


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## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


You have a good point as well. Now that I think about it, I wouldn't pay 68$ for a walnut table because I do not need nor want one right now. I would, however, like to have some walnut lumber.


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## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


I vote for lumber, but then again I would have voted for lumber on the 1st chest refurb too. So my vote has diminished value. You could re-turn the legs for a future project. Plus the cost is zero right now.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Shane, I guarantee you would not have chosen the first chest as a lumber donor, as that stuff was pretty much crap.

Your vote has full value.

Just took the table out of the leg clamp, and it sits real nice, no wobble. Because I'm not hurting for walnut by any stretch, and because I have the space, I'll leave it 'in situ,' as Andy would say, and decide later. If I would re-do it, though, it'd be with the wheels above in antique brass.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Smitty, around here your $125 number is low. I think after you fix it its $250-$300.

if your not in a hurry, I'm sure I can dig up a set over the summer pickins.


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## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Don said it … Summer pickins … Theyre not too far off, i heard birds yesterday morning. Come on spring, i need some rust huntin.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Don, you're on. Find 4 and I'll repair and sell! In the meantime, it sits…


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


I probably should go check and make sure I don't already have some


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


1 1/4" ID at the center…


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


+1 to what Len said.

Pretty cool Smitty, I think I'm going to go put some more camber on my smoother now.

Smitty ask at the antique malls they should have a box of those old keys somewhere. Finding one that fits might be tricky though.


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## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Smitty said the lock is missing a part inside Mauricio, so it isn't going to work even with the right key.


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Len, in his ever present eloquence, brings up a good point; it is uncanny how these unassuming treasures find their way into your capable hands. Perhaps your discerning eye (which is obviously genetic) assists the force in its duties.

So, your son found all three items in the same place? That is amazing and it is wonderful that the tragedy of these items ending up in a landfill was averted.

Most likely Don will find a baker's dozen of those casters for a $1.50.

As always thank you for sharing Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


The 'salvage' trunk features a pair of mortise locks; one remained. It fits the 'keeper' box, and seems to be intact mechanically. The search for a key is on.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


I got nothing to match those caster Smitty, but I'll keep looking.


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Ah see that Andy, my key finding tip stands, I saw a box of old keys the other day at an antique mall.

Is it really possible to just happen upon the right key?


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## Dennisgrosen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


nice chest Smitty looks like it could take the fuld overdone makeover 
and be this century´s best toolbox ))

Dennis


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


Updated OP pics to get around Photo(scum)bucket's limitations. Oh, and this is what the chest has held since August '17.


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


A fine complement of molding planes!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


From Don Yoda to me last year, all the same maker. Pretty fortunate to have them, and the certainly get used! Thanks Tony.


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## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


ta da!
...and just like that, you've transformed a plain chest into a *'Plane Chest'. * ;-)

Best Regards
Still young enough to Lurk. - Grandpa Len

Work Safely and have Fun.

-Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len …just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How Do I Find These Things?*
> 
> My son came to meet me tonight when I got home to tell me he of a 'scavenge' opportunity he lined up. Long story short, here's one of the things we rescued from the dumpster:
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> The lock is in place, as is the keyplate. Now to find a key that works, tighten this thing up, and enjoy! No work to do with this one compared to the last one. Good times!
> 
> EDIT: Updated to replace Photo (CHUM) Bucket pics on 08 Aug 2018. Smitty


I'm so glad they found a good home!!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*A Wooden 'What is this?'*

I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.




























Note the little 'shelf' pieces are on one side then the other. Like a 'Z' or zig-zag thing.

Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


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## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Note the little 'shelf' pieces are on one side then the other. Like a 'Z' or zig-zag thing.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


Looks like a top to a tilting/drafting type desk. Who knows?


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## ghost5

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Note the little 'shelf' pieces are on one side then the other. Like a 'Z' or zig-zag thing.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


It sure looks like a drafting table top to me, too.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Note the little 'shelf' pieces are on one side then the other. Like a 'Z' or zig-zag thing.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


could be a slide out bread board kind of thing. Some of the old kitchen hutches had them that were wide like that.

I've also seen very similar pieces in an old mens clothing shop I remodeled. The shelf slid out to set the folded cloths on as you were searching through the pile for your size etc.


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## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Note the little 'shelf' pieces are on one side then the other. Like a 'Z' or zig-zag thing.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


Smitty,

Many decades ago my Grandmother had a 'bread board' very similar to the picture you've posted. It was roughly 2' x 3' in size and had room for the formed products as well as those being formed.

Not a cutting board but a temporary surface to be used atop of her kitchen table to knead, roll and form bread, rolls, biscuits and pie crust on. The 'hook cleat held it stable through the kneading and rolling force and the board was easier to clean up at the sink than cleaning the table top afterwards.

...just a thought and a fond memory of the aroma of fresh baked bread.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len

Edit; Spritz the surface with a little water and apply some heat, your nose may be able to help you determine it's previous use.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Note the little 'shelf' pieces are on one side then the other. Like a 'Z' or zig-zag thing.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


The breadboard, non-cutting, makes alot of sense!


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## JoeinGa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Note the little 'shelf' pieces are on one side then the other. Like a 'Z' or zig-zag thing.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


If it was some sort of "slide-out" you should be able to se the wear marks in the wood where it slid in and out. Could it have been the top to an old school desk that had book storage under it? Any sign of hinges at one time?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Note the little 'shelf' pieces are on one side then the other. Like a 'Z' or zig-zag thing.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


No hinge traces or slide makings. The 1/4" hole at the far end of Pic 1 had a rope 'handle' attached… Very 'pristine' looking assy…


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## Dennisgrosen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Note the little 'shelf' pieces are on one side then the other. Like a 'Z' or zig-zag thing.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


its a big benchhook for a table in the living room 
its just missing the sidewalls 
realy great to have if you have a hobby and want to be able clean the table every day 
but stillwant to be able to continue the work in seconds …... 

well that was my gess )))

Dennis


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## needshave

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Note the little 'shelf' pieces are on one side then the other. Like a 'Z' or zig-zag thing.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


When I first started teaching Industrial Arts, back in the back room where all the abandon equipment was kept was about 10 items very similar to what you have shown. They were drafting boards. The cleat was used to provide a slight incline while drafting or if you wanted a steeper incline you provided a support of your own and the cleat became an edge to keep pencils and tools from rolling off. A T-square was used relative to the side or from the top. Then a triangle was used off the t-square to keep everything square/perpendicular to an edge. I never used them in my class as full desks were there and cad was just starting up.


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## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Note the little 'shelf' pieces are on one side then the other. Like a 'Z' or zig-zag thing.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


I would say for drafting as well. No wear marks. Breadboard edges. The bottom is thick enough for squares and triangles. Plus the heavy 45 degree relief on the bottom edge. IMHO


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Note the little 'shelf' pieces are on one side then the other. Like a 'Z' or zig-zag thing.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


+1 to what Len said. I was kneading some dough last night and my cutting board kept slipping so I had to kneed with one hand and hold the board with the other. Once of these would have been handy.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


Sold, Maur!


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## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


Maur - it sounds like youre quite the cook. Your AV shows some delicious meats on the grill and now kneading dough … i think we need a recipe thread. Smitty's gotta be the head chef, hes always cookin up somethin marvelous in the shop to get your mouth watering.


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


Making some Empanadas Stef. I had a powerful craving for them so I had to Google the recipe and wipe up a batch. I've made them before but this was my best attempt yet.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


Oh, man those look good… What's inside?


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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Meat and potatoes! You mix it up with some sautéed tomatos, green onions, cilantro, and garlic. A little cumin, salt and pepper…. fry em up. MMMMM. Now I'm hungry. I need to make some more.


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## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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Thats it … im starting a recipe thread tonight. Im with Smitty, i could put a beat down on at least a half doz of those fried treaties and wash em down with a few adult beverages.


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


These go perfect with beer. mmmmm


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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> Any ideas as to the purpose of this thing? Thanks!


But this was my crowning achievment:









Can you tell I'm hungry?


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Wooden 'What is this?'*
> 
> I picked this up yesterday for the material, but now I wonder what it is. Has some characteristics of an old drafting board, or easle, but it would have been very out of place to be where it was found. Clear and straight grained, no pin holes or ink marks. Jointed, but not bread-boarded ends.
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But talking about woodworking and cooking together. I need to make me one of these.



Cubans do their pig in one of these but they call it a Caja China. It's called a Cajun Microwave in Louisiana. 
The meat is falling off the bone when its done. No knife needed to pull it apart. Freaking amazing.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Natural Light is On The Way*

Here's what I've had.










I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.




























This window will be installed tomorrow!










Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted. 

I'll update when it's in!


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## Mosquito

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Nice. That new window looks like it will fit better. Windows that are that much wider than they are tall (large picture windows exempt) always make me think of basement windows…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
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> I'll update when it's in!


Yep, very cheap, commercial-grade sliders in the shop now; looked crappy, little lite, didn't slide,, and leaked. Tomorrow the first of two gets replaced!


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
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> I'll update when it's in!


Sweet!!


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## Airframer

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
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> I'll update when it's in!


That's going to be a nice change. Just in time for summer too!


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
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> Here's what I've had.
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> 
> This window will be installed tomorrow!
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Nice! but all I can think about is why you blacked out that sticker on the window? I wonder what it said?


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## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> 
> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Let there be light. Unfortunately for me, some things just look better in the dark. : (


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> 
> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Rot underneath the window… Vinyl siding, anyone? (No, I didn't build this place OR install this window…)










Installed, after 'refurb' of wall and opening. Yeah, crappy pic, but you get the point.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!





















Done.


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## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


NICE!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
> 
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> 
> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> 
> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


I moved the light fixture closer to being over the center of the bench, and raised it up about 6" for better benchtop lighting. Less clutter in front of the window, too. A definite improvement all the way around, and I got to work with Pop all day. A win-win.


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## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> 
> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Looks good Smitty. Kind of place you want to look around and mess with stuff.


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## Mosquito

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> 
> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Looks great


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> 
> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Great improvement. Even the bench looks happier


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## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> 
> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Its the only way to go.


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## iceman50

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> 
> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


It was a great day and project was a success


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
> 
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> 
> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> 
> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Came out great man! The natural wood trip around it is nice to.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
> 
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> 
> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> 
> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Decluttered and re-painted the wall tonight.










The rest of the shop space, however, is a friggin' disaster.


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## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> 
> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Ahh I love to remodel I just dont like what it does to my shop. But when it is in your shop. WOW


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
> 
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> 
> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


I'm drowning in cut-offs and other 'keeper' boards. Urgh.


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## bluekingfisher

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> 
> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Looks like a great improvement, no more clutter means an enjoyable place to work.


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## JayT

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Window looks good, Smitty.

I have to ask, however, what is with the drum set in the shop? Most people just use a radio, we can't afford live music.


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Looking good Smitty!

Its tough not to get cluttered with cut offs. I'm trying to get better about burning stuff I really don't need to be saving, especially if its a common domestic wood. But you know how it goes, as soon as you burn it you will be looking for that one scrap that was the perfect size for some small project.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


ditto on that Mauricio


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## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> 
> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Lookin saaawweeetttt Smitty. I wish i could get some more natural light into m shop without breaking out the concrete chainsaw, stupid foundation walls lol.

Now youre gonna have to rock the ray bans in the shop when youre at the bench.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Maur, I hear you brother. Consider this: The window trim was completed Saturday afternoon with wood on-hand. Seven pieces of pine were needed for the inside trim, the sill, the apron and face trim. Five of those boards came to me as furring strips from a drop ceiling tear-out three years ago. Two more were from a queen bed box spring I tore apart more than five years ago (I think). The walnut header was new material (bought three years ago) and includes sapwood to give it a different look.

All those boards, individually, aren't worth a pig in a poke. But together they make a nice trim job. It's stuff like this that makes it hard to throw stuff away, you know?

Blue- you are correct. I'm in pitch mode right now, so hopefully I'll get a more enjoyable workplace as a result.

JayT- I fancy myself a drummer at times, so the shop shares duty as a practice space.


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Wow, huge improvement Smitty! I particularly like the interior treatment; great header. Would that be considered colonial? 
It is always good to see your shop in any case. It is a great space.


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## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


That looks like a 200% shop improvement!
Now you will stand there and enjoy the light while working.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


An idea in the head today tells me where I need to go with walls around the new window space. I'm on a mission now…


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## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


;-) good light hunting…


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


True Smitty, and nobody works the scraps like you so you need to keep them around.

There should be some rule though, based on some ancient wisdom, if the scrap is X" long, made of domestic wood, blah blah blah, then it gets burnt. If not it goes in the rack.

I don't have a lot of natural light in my shop but I did just install 8' tube lights. I went with the natural daylight ones. So if it no longer looks like I work in a cave when you see my pics, you know why.

Smitty I bet you are discovering what I just discovered, the downside of all that light…. Now you can see all the dirt and disorder. I had to go out and clean up because the light made the shop look like crap. LOL.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


I was out there last night again, cleaning and straightening. And I re-hung the poster with shelf below for the moulders rather than pursue the Ah-Ha! inspiration referenced in Post #28 above… I need to get to work on backlog rather than pull to new things. Focus, man… 

New lights are definitely in my future as well. On a switch vs. a pull chain. Stupid 'system' put in by the original owner, the same one that chose crappy windows and installed them poorly.

But at least I have a shop, so who's complaining? Certainly not me. It's why I've lived with the lighting and windows for years already.

The most pressing shop arrangement task is building a wall of base cabinets that incorporate the RAS. I get that in place, and happiness will abound. It's been in my head as a plan for a long time, and I keep coming back to it as the solution needed in the face of clutter and congestion. When? Don't know…


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Natural Light is On The Way*
> 
> Here's what I've had.
> 
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> I've peeled the inside to prepare for a change.
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> This window will be installed tomorrow!
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> Looking forward to more light; about 35% more by my calculations, not that I've counted.
> 
> I'll update when it's in!


Shop made base cabinets have been in my plans for a while to. Got to get some inside the house furniture knocked out first .


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*A Good Deal on Pecan?*

Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:



















Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.

Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


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## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
> 
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
> 
> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


Sounds solid to me. About a $1 a bf, hard to go wrong there. Plus the cut offs and scraps are good in the smoker.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
> 
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
> 
> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


I don't believe I've ever even held a piece of pecan. I'm betting you'll find a wonderful project for it. At a buck a foot, you can't go wrong.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
> 
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
> 
> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


^ me either, Don. Looks kinda like apple, hard like hickory, pores like the sample of American chestnut Al sent out months ago. They had a piece planed smooth - wow. Had to have it, bought the first pile. Second one went for $90. I was happy, but raw wood is not something I buy often…


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## Timbo

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
> 
> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?

That is wood gloat territory. Nice haul!

Be sure to wire brush it before planing.


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## KelvinGrove

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
> 
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
> 
> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


Just looked on woodworker source. When you search for pecan it returns hickory. Are the closely related? Hickory going for nearly $8.00 a foot for 4/4 boards. Looks good to me!


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
> 
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
> 
> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


I've heard pecan and hickory are the same. Keep your tools nice and sharp. Its haaarrrdddd!


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## Beginningwoodworker

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
> 
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
> 
> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


Nice looking wood to me.


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## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
> 
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
> 
> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


I think pecan is a species in the hickory family. They will be hard and heavy, lots of color variation in heart wood and sapwood.


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## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
> 
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
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> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


Pretty sweet deal, Smitty!

You can always sell me 1/2 the lot for $70, and have some free wood, plus make the misses happy!


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## DanKrager

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
> 
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
> 
> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


The trees, pecan and hickory, may be related, but the nuts are wildly different. I have almost several hundred hickory trees on my property and the nuts they produce are called white walnuts around here. They look and act like black walnuts but they have a sweetish mild flavor and are especially delicious roasted. The pecans I buy in our stores are not at all like the hickory nuts here. The wood tends to be light colored, looks a lot like the sample above, burns hot almost like hedge, whether it's wet, green or cured. LOVE the smoke smell. 
DanK


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## gfadvm

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
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> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


Smitty- I think that was an excellent deal! Yer makin me feel kinda bad though as I've been burning pecan (a lot of it's spalted) in my woodstove all winter. You'll like it to work with. Worm holes and all! I've posted several pecan projects and thoroughly enjoy it.


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## Arthouse

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
> 
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
> 
> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


I love pecan for it's spalting which you have a lot of. I try and use it in a way the grain all matches because it is so textured with different colors when you glue several of the eight inches together you might not like it for the colors might not blend into each other . This table I made had pieces that were 14'' wide same tree and came out beautiful for it was the same flitch.te


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
> 
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
> 
> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


Art, that is beautiful!


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## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
> 
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
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> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


Nice catch Smitty. I think you did well.


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## gfadvm

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
> 
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
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> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


Art- That is gorgeous. Unfortunately, all my pecan was in 18" to 24" lengths when I got it.


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## twokidsnosleep

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
> 
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
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> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


terrible deal, better send it all to me…wink wink


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
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> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


I have seen what you're able to create from lesser stuff, this will be a treat.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Good Deal on Pecan?*
> 
> Bought this rough-sawn, aged and cured pecan at auction today for $70:
> 
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> Eighteen boards between 5 and 8 inches in width, all 8' long, all at least an inch thick.
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> Good? Bad? Just 'fine,' or ?


Thanks, All, for the feedback! A great place, the LJs site! Excellent tip to wire brush it first, makes a lot of sense and I wouldn't have thought of it.

There's a table in the shop that needs a new top; maybe pecan would be a cool choice. When? No idea. But now that I have some in stock, it can be anytime.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*

Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.










The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.










I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.










Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?

Thanks.


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## Handtooler

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
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> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
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> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
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> 
> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


Could it have been an early version of a slide/keeper to fit on the right side of a desk drawer top to keep file folders from floping down, if the drawer was not completely full of folders?


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## JoeinGa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
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> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
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> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
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> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


Dominos holder?


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## JoeinGa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
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> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
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> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
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> 
> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


Actually I think it looks like something they would have used to line up the old newsprint letters when they had to hand-set the newspapers. If so, your pictures show it upside down


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## shipwright

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
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> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
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> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
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> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


Joe's right.

My dad owned a one man weekly newspaper when I was a kid. I can't remember the name of the but I do recognize it. When you were assembling hand set type you would pick the individual letters out of the block type trays and set them up a line at a time on this thing before moving them to the larger setup frame which I'm pretty sure was called a chase.


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## DanKrager

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
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> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
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> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


Plus one on the printer's alignment tool. This was used to set up or lay out the letters and etched or carved picture blocks for a column of print. They were all backwards, of course, so it took some getting used to to accurately lay out the words. The one side was left open to transfer the layup to the bed of the printing platen. Pretty tedious and older than I am. No first hand experience, but remember what I've been exposed to briefly. 
DanK


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## JoeinGa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
> 
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> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
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> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
> 
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> 
> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


"Joe's right."

WOO HOOO! Score "one" for Joe!

See? I TOLD ya it's for holding dominos!


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## Sylvain

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
> 
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> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
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> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
> 
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> 
> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


look at 
06 January, 2012 Type held in the hand

on
http://typefoundry.blogspot.be/2012/01/type-held-in-hand.html


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## JayT

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
> 
> 
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> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
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> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
> 
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> 
> 
> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


Now that you know what it is, Smitty, what are you going to use it for?


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## JJohnston

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
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> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
> 
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> 
> 
> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


I actually used one of those in a printing class I took in high school, and not all that long ago. It was 1982 - and in retrospect, I realize now that printing-wise, it was an in-between era between old school stuff like this and the computers of today - but since it was a public school, we were using gear from 20+ years earlier. The ones we used didn't even have the clamp - if you relaxed your left thumb, your work could end up the floor in a heartbeat.

You're holding it right in the second picture, but rotate your forearm 90* clockwise so the long shelf is horizontal along the bottom, left thumb pointing right. You use your right hand to place the invidual letters, right to left and bottom line to top.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
> 
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> 
> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


The answers are awesome! But what I do with it is a good question. It'd be nice to find a collector of print stuff and get it a good home.


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## eccentrictinkerer

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
> 
> 
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> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
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> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
> 
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> 
> 
> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


For what it's worth my 8th grade (over 50 years ago!) print teacher called that a 'stick'. I Googled 'printer's stick' and came up with this - a composing stick.

More here

Mr. Hork also told us that the phrase "Mind your p's and q's" originated with composing because you insert the type into the stick upside down and reversed.

(Why I can remember this is weird, because I don't usually remember where I parked my car!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
> 
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> 
> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


Composing stick. Very cool! Thanks, everyone, that's certainly what it is!


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## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
> 
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> 
> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


Im glad you got the answer to the "what is it" question. I always love learning about that kinda stuff.

If its not too deep it looks like it would hold a sharpening stone really well. Clamp that puppy in there and clamp the tool to the table … viola, smittys got a sharpening station that dont dance around the bench.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
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> 
> 
> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


Hmmmmm….


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


And the wheels in smittys head go round and round ….

Sheesh, i need some adult time, all these baby songs are infiltrating my brain.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


wait 'till you've watched the ninja turtles (or similar) about a zillion times!!


----------



## Handtooler

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit Update: It's a Typesetter's Composing Stick!*
> 
> Found this at a flea mkt today, paid $2 for it. Well machined, smooth operation, obviously used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'arm' slides along the right wall of the main 'tray,' then is clamped into place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what operation would need a three sided clamp that's 1/2" deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it's a part someone needs for a machine, or maybe it's forever an "I dunno." Can you help with a guess?
> 
> Thanks.


Crisstef and DonW, Or Care Bears, Smurffs, and Strawberry Shortcakes; besides reading the kindergarden reader about a thousand times.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*The DW102 Powershop Bench*

Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?










The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.

Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.

Thanks for any insight you can provide!


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


So what your saying is that the baffle baffles you?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


In a word, yes.

BTW, the baffle in question is the board in the center bottom of the bench that angles downward from front to back in the pic above. The RAS chucks sawdust back from the cutting action; that stuff then falls into the baffle trap. Drawing seems clear that the baffle doesn't slide out, and there's no hole on either side cabinet or through the back.

One idea is, when the sawdust fills the cavity, buy a new saw.


----------



## Dcase

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


That is a really neat looking RAS station. My guess would be that maybe there was a way to attach a bag for the dust to fall into?


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Ive toyed with a similar idea for a while now Smitty. Ive got a dedicated miter station with an opening in the back that the dust falls to the floor from. My problem is that it also sprays from side to side which your design seems to capture with the "wings". Id say any funnel shaped device with a shop vac port at the bottom would grab around 80-90% of the dust.

Could the shown baffle fold out on hinges of some sort?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


The RAS sits on Boards marked A. Lots of space in the open architecture towards the back of the saw for dust to fall. I half expected the baffle board to be able to pull out, towards the operator, so dust could be scooped up. But nope.










Chris - the wings will contain it; one of the best parts of this cabinet is the backsplash. Dust is climbing my wall as it is, and that's just not cool.

The way this thing is build is so totally old school, as you can see from the plans…


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


I wonder if the component with the DeWalt label and the attached section of cabinet top slides out and foward, thus allowing access to the saw dust.

I wonder/doubt it was designed to have a dust collection port. How many hobbiest had shop vacs and dust collection systems during this era? Maybe they lifted out that section and scooped out the dust.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


That piece with the label is the steel base of the saw. The saw weighs 140 pounds or so.

Scott, I think the 'scoop it out' part is mostly true. The extent of which the user lifts the bloody saw is ridiculous by today's standard, but maybe it was expected then. I've seen one of these cabinets on ebay or CL, can't remember which, and was hoping a LJ had one or had seen one in person and could share some insight.

I'll do something with a baffle space, for sure, and the more suction the better.


----------



## DaveinCA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Looks to me like the waste should drop through the bottom. The cabinet is 24" deep front to back however the undershelf® that the baffle meets at the bottom is only 18" deep. I think the design implies there would be an open space behind the bottom of the baffle and a catch box might be located on the floor at the rear that could be pulled out and emptied as needed. Maybe they don't define it because it would not be connected and integral with the bench?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Dave - Eagle Eye Award for You!!!

You're correct!

The shelf below the 'baffle board' is indeed 18" deep, meaning the baffle is a chute and sawdust will collect on the floor, under said shelf.

Wow! Thanks!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


BTW, I'm honored you invested only your fifth comment in more than three years on my thread!


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Got ya. I dont have much experience with RAS's and looked at some images to see their structure.

Obviously, I agree with you. Lifting that monster out to get to the saw dust is not the answer.

Where did you get the measured drawings?

It's a moot point really isn't it? You will modify the plans to accomodate a shop vac. Unless historical reproduction is your goal. It does pique your curiousity though.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Measured drawings from OWWM. And with DaveinCA's insight, it just may lead me to be more 'historical repro' in my approach than I otherwise might have been. It does still mean 'scoop it out,' but that's what my TS does now, too.


----------



## Freakazoid

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


This blog caught my eye - I have an old MBF I bought off Craigslist a couple of years ago but have done nothing with it. I have always wanted to put it in a dedicated station but had not come up with the right design. Did a little google-ing and found this (it seems there is a dust bin at the bottom as mentioned above):


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Huzzah!!! That's the very one! . Thanks, Freakazoid!


----------



## Freakazoid

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


No, thank you! I found the future home for my saw!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Did you find the drawing? If not, I'll post the link!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Found it again.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2436


----------



## Freakazoid

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Found the drawing on OWWM, putting it into SketchUp now. Beware - there is an error in the drawing (at least I think there is) for the notch in part labelled "A". The drawing says 24 1/8" between notches, but I am thinking 24 1/4". The drawing is kind of hard to work with - fortunately I took some drafting courses years ago and that is (finally) helping. Otherwise, everything is looking OK at this point.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Man, you're going to town. Post the build, okay? This will be fun!


----------



## Freakazoid

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Well I am working nights this month and this is my one night off for the week, so it is hard to get any traction and get anything done today, so internet and computer time it is! (at least for tonight) It may be nine months before I get this one done, but I will definitely post it when I do. I have moved this one up to the head of the projects line - I would rather use the saw than move it out of the way all the time.


----------



## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Smitty,

IMHO, I beleive the original design incorporated the 1st attempt at a Thein Seperator to collect the bulk of the chips and sawdust at the source.

He had received his Harbor Freight catalog 20% Off Coupon and began lurking on the LumberJocks site trying to decide whether to use 6", 5" or 4" ducting to connect to his DC and finally the metal vs. PVC duct debate took it's toll on him and he just oppted to use a drawer until the proof of the best system had been posted.

...procrastination has crippled many Grand Ideas.

Well that's my thought on his design in progress, ...and I'm stickin' to it.

Best Wishes for your build and I am holding high hopes that you will complete his dreams to controll a little more of the air pollution he so detested in his shop.

Best Regards, we'll all be lurking your site for the progress. 
Work Safely and have Fun. - Grandpa Len. ;-)


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


This will be fun to watch!


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


To save yourself some time and effort you can install some pre-fab Gladiator cabinets in it.


----------



## JayT

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


To save yourself some time and effort you can install some pre-fab Gladiator cabinets in it.

And then paint it a pumpkin color.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


I'm told it's not pumpkin I want, but some other shade of orange. Like Doritos, maybe?










but don't quote me on that…

Now Gadiator inserts. Hmmmm….


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Len, thanks! Your comments are always welcomed and enjoyed. Spot on, too! 

Freak, the nominal 2×4 of today isn't 1 3/4×3 3/4 either, as shown in the drawing.  Q: Will you keep it at the 36" (+\-) benchtop height? I'm thinking a couple inches shorter…


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## Freakazoid

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Regarding the 2×4 size, I caught that too. Still working on the SketchUp - I didn't finish yesterday. Had some trouble understanding how some of the pieces fit together (which is pretty tough after a 12 hour night shift). It is looking like the back panel isn't dimensioned correctly either. Once I get the drawing all put in, then I will start tweaking it. The 36 inch height is good for me (I am 6' 5"), however I want to try and figure out how to get some casters on it without destroying the design.


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Do gladiator flavored Doritos come in diamond plate packaging?


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Doritos and Dr Pepper. My snack of choice as a young teenager. Then Doritos and Miller Ponies as I hit my 20s. That evolved into Doritos an Jack and Coke. Now its Doritos and just jack!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


Lays Potato Chips and Ski soda as a teenager here. Now Jack and Ski alongside some good deer sausage.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The DW102 Powershop Bench*
> 
> Anyone on LJs have first-hand experience with this cabinet? Seen one? Have one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The baffle appears to catch sawdust, but short of lifting the saw out of place, how do you extract the caught dust? Strangest design I've seen it awhile… I have the measured drawing, it offers no text as to how to 'use' this baffle feature.
> 
> Strongly considering building something close to this bench for my DeWalt RAS, and I'll include some type of dust collection that features a shop vac enclosed in one of the lower cabinets. But this baffle fascinates me.
> 
> Thanks for any insight you can provide!


that reminds me to grab a bag of venison jerky for my trip this week.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*

Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!




































































































Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.




























More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


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## widdle

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
> 
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> 
> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
> 
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> 
> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


Stylin…That's gonna be nice…


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## ScaleShipWright

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
> 
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> 
> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
> 
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> 
> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


Nice work!


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## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
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> 
> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
> 
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> 
> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


Brad nailer and biscuits, now you are just showing off the diversity. No doubt an upgrade to the existing cabinet.


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## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
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> 
> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
> 
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> 
> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


Can't wait to see how this turns out Smitty. My guess is very nice. Top already has some interesting curves to it.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
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> 
> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
> 
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> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


All materials are shop 'scraps' that finally found a home. The top, Mike, is from the same poplar pieces as the rest of the face frame; an old chest of drawers that was way, way, way past repair. That curve was there, I just shortened each end about 5/4" and "Bob's Your Uncle."

This was taken when I was working up the faces of the face frame material early last evening.










Frame for mirrored door is done (M&T), but rabbets needed for mirror to ride in. Pics later tonight, shop time for today has ended. :-(


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
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> 
> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
> 
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> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


Looking good!


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
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> 
> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
> 
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> 
> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


Excellent.


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## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
> 
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> 
> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
> 
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> 
> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


That's gonna last a lot longer than the old metal one Smitty. You made a fantastic job of that.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
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> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
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> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


Updated with progress above.


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
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> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
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> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


Poplar with Pine veneer? At first glance it looked like you were using some figured wood.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
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> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
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> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


Yeah, "figured I'll use it' wood.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
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> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
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> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


New pic in main post above.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
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> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
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> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


I hope to fit the door with hinges within the next couple evenings, and get a coat of primer on everything before permanently installing the glass.


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## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
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> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
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> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


I love to watch you work Smitty.


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
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> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
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> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


^ +1 Dave.

The door is m & t, correct? I see the tenons being cut (i think).

Is it a bump out (no idea of a proper term) in the stile that i am looking at? It confuses my little monkey mind.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
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> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
> 
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> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


Tony - The back of the door (yes, M&T) is rabbet'd to receive the mirror / panel. I ran the rails through the shaper for said rabbet, but stopped the cuts short on the stiles then chiseled the rest of the way (to make them stopped rabbets) by hand to get where I needed to be.

Just about to take the plunge on some pigstickers, but for now still love the hollow chisel mortiser for it's quick and dirty, get 'er done capability. The pic above does show tenons being cut; the second rail is on the bench, ready for cross cut. I did that with a 10" backsaw and a bench hook; all you have to do there is saw to a line, and if it's not good 'off the saw,' shoulder planes clean it up in short order. Cutting the doors for the wall hung tool cabinet in this way was a good confidence (and capability) boost, re: M&T/rail and stile door building…


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A 'New' Medicine Cabinet*
> 
> Need to replace an old steel medicine cabinet that's rusty on the outside chrome and otherwise in 'not so good' condition. It's recessed into the wall a bit, and surrounded w/ tile I don't wish to disturb. I'll make one of wood that's on hand, with a mirrored door. Many more pictures than words. Here we go!
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> 
> Kind of a 'hybrid' shop effort (handplaning of stock, drywall screws and glue for joinery, along w/ some framing biscuits, shaper and #278 for rabbets), Progress pics are since yesterday; not a fast build, but a good clip for me. Now to make the door for mirror. More later!
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> Door in work, will frame a mirror cut from the old cabinet. Frame from an old drawer front, also poplar with some veneer of pine on one side.
> 
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> More to come. Oh, and this will get a nice coat of white paint (no kidding) so it 'goes with' the interior of the bathroom.
> 
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> 
> An update of mirrored door progress: ready for fitting and hinge install.


Ah hah! Okay now i got it. Thank you Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Reworking a Cheap F-Style Clamp*

I bought a set of four F-style clamps a decade ago for probably $5 at one of those tool 'auctions' of new stuff, the precursor to Harbor Freight (perhaps). Anyway, over the years they've lost their 'grab' and I can't tighten them with any certainty, with any significant pressure. But I've held off throwing them away.

Anyway,

Today I wanted to clamp through a doghole in my benchtop and reached for one of these bad boys. Ground off the stud at the end so the turnscrew piece would come off, and tried the clamp. Rats, no hold.

I pulled the two flat pieces of sheet stock out of the 'head' and took a file to the holes in each, to put a square edge back on them. Well, it worked! With the clamp together, through the bench, it held like crazy.










Now to take apart the other three!


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reworking a Cheap F-Style Clamp*
> 
> I bought a set of four F-style clamps a decade ago for probably $5 at one of those tool 'auctions' of new stuff, the precursor to Harbor Freight (perhaps). Anyway, over the years they've lost their 'grab' and I can't tighten them with any certainty, with any significant pressure. But I've held off throwing them away.
> 
> Anyway,
> 
> Today I wanted to clamp through a doghole in my benchtop and reached for one of these bad boys. Ground off the stud at the end so the turnscrew piece would come off, and tried the clamp. Rats, no hold.
> 
> I pulled the two flat pieces of sheet stock out of the 'head' and took a file to the holes in each, to put a square edge back on them. Well, it worked! With the clamp together, through the bench, it held like crazy.
> 
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> 
> Now to take apart the other three!


New life!!! Almost like buying new.


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## FirehouseWoodworking

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reworking a Cheap F-Style Clamp*
> 
> I bought a set of four F-style clamps a decade ago for probably $5 at one of those tool 'auctions' of new stuff, the precursor to Harbor Freight (perhaps). Anyway, over the years they've lost their 'grab' and I can't tighten them with any certainty, with any significant pressure. But I've held off throwing them away.
> 
> Anyway,
> 
> Today I wanted to clamp through a doghole in my benchtop and reached for one of these bad boys. Ground off the stud at the end so the turnscrew piece would come off, and tried the clamp. Rats, no hold.
> 
> I pulled the two flat pieces of sheet stock out of the 'head' and took a file to the holes in each, to put a square edge back on them. Well, it worked! With the clamp together, through the bench, it held like crazy.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Now to take apart the other three!


Isn't that a great technique?! I've done the same, however I reversed the clamp. I put the fixed head under the bench and the adjustable head on top.

I found it much easier to adjust the head cams and then tighten the screw handle while stand up at my bench rather than squatting and reaching under (tired old knees and bad back - let alone my belly getting in the way! - but that's another story.)

I selected the longest clamp that I could slip into the dog holes from underneath the bench and went with them. That allows me to slip on the adjustable clamp head and slide it all the way down.

Well done, sir! And thanks for sharing!

Cheers!


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reworking a Cheap F-Style Clamp*
> 
> I bought a set of four F-style clamps a decade ago for probably $5 at one of those tool 'auctions' of new stuff, the precursor to Harbor Freight (perhaps). Anyway, over the years they've lost their 'grab' and I can't tighten them with any certainty, with any significant pressure. But I've held off throwing them away.
> 
> Anyway,
> 
> Today I wanted to clamp through a doghole in my benchtop and reached for one of these bad boys. Ground off the stud at the end so the turnscrew piece would come off, and tried the clamp. Rats, no hold.
> 
> I pulled the two flat pieces of sheet stock out of the 'head' and took a file to the holes in each, to put a square edge back on them. Well, it worked! With the clamp together, through the bench, it held like crazy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to take apart the other three!


I have one just like that which also slips. Like you I havent thrown it away yet. I'll have to try your filling trick.


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reworking a Cheap F-Style Clamp*
> 
> I bought a set of four F-style clamps a decade ago for probably $5 at one of those tool 'auctions' of new stuff, the precursor to Harbor Freight (perhaps). Anyway, over the years they've lost their 'grab' and I can't tighten them with any certainty, with any significant pressure. But I've held off throwing them away.
> 
> Anyway,
> 
> Today I wanted to clamp through a doghole in my benchtop and reached for one of these bad boys. Ground off the stud at the end so the turnscrew piece would come off, and tried the clamp. Rats, no hold.
> 
> I pulled the two flat pieces of sheet stock out of the 'head' and took a file to the holes in each, to put a square edge back on them. Well, it worked! With the clamp together, through the bench, it held like crazy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to take apart the other three!


Good one Smitty! I too have used some of my F-clamps by removing the top jaw and just dropping the bar into a hole that goes through my bench top. It works great, but I very seldom have need of it.


----------



## knothead

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reworking a Cheap F-Style Clamp*
> 
> I bought a set of four F-style clamps a decade ago for probably $5 at one of those tool 'auctions' of new stuff, the precursor to Harbor Freight (perhaps). Anyway, over the years they've lost their 'grab' and I can't tighten them with any certainty, with any significant pressure. But I've held off throwing them away.
> 
> Anyway,
> 
> Today I wanted to clamp through a doghole in my benchtop and reached for one of these bad boys. Ground off the stud at the end so the turnscrew piece would come off, and tried the clamp. Rats, no hold.
> 
> I pulled the two flat pieces of sheet stock out of the 'head' and took a file to the holes in each, to put a square edge back on them. Well, it worked! With the clamp together, through the bench, it held like crazy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to take apart the other three!


I have done exactly the same thing to three HF clamps for clamping items to the bench! Beats throwing them away


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reworking a Cheap F-Style Clamp*
> 
> I bought a set of four F-style clamps a decade ago for probably $5 at one of those tool 'auctions' of new stuff, the precursor to Harbor Freight (perhaps). Anyway, over the years they've lost their 'grab' and I can't tighten them with any certainty, with any significant pressure. But I've held off throwing them away.
> 
> Anyway,
> 
> Today I wanted to clamp through a doghole in my benchtop and reached for one of these bad boys. Ground off the stud at the end so the turnscrew piece would come off, and tried the clamp. Rats, no hold.
> 
> I pulled the two flat pieces of sheet stock out of the 'head' and took a file to the holes in each, to put a square edge back on them. Well, it worked! With the clamp together, through the bench, it held like crazy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to take apart the other three!


Nothing worse than a clamp that won't clamp. Nothing better than putting a tool back to work.


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reworking a Cheap F-Style Clamp*
> 
> I bought a set of four F-style clamps a decade ago for probably $5 at one of those tool 'auctions' of new stuff, the precursor to Harbor Freight (perhaps). Anyway, over the years they've lost their 'grab' and I can't tighten them with any certainty, with any significant pressure. But I've held off throwing them away.
> 
> Anyway,
> 
> Today I wanted to clamp through a doghole in my benchtop and reached for one of these bad boys. Ground off the stud at the end so the turnscrew piece would come off, and tried the clamp. Rats, no hold.
> 
> I pulled the two flat pieces of sheet stock out of the 'head' and took a file to the holes in each, to put a square edge back on them. Well, it worked! With the clamp together, through the bench, it held like crazy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to take apart the other three!


Nice clamp save!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reworking a Cheap F-Style Clamp*
> 
> I bought a set of four F-style clamps a decade ago for probably $5 at one of those tool 'auctions' of new stuff, the precursor to Harbor Freight (perhaps). Anyway, over the years they've lost their 'grab' and I can't tighten them with any certainty, with any significant pressure. But I've held off throwing them away.
> 
> Anyway,
> 
> Today I wanted to clamp through a doghole in my benchtop and reached for one of these bad boys. Ground off the stud at the end so the turnscrew piece would come off, and tried the clamp. Rats, no hold.
> 
> I pulled the two flat pieces of sheet stock out of the 'head' and took a file to the holes in each, to put a square edge back on them. Well, it worked! With the clamp together, through the bench, it held like crazy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to take apart the other three!


Your Don-esque ingenuity is is showing…. just a heads-up.


----------



## Sylvain

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reworking a Cheap F-Style Clamp*
> 
> I bought a set of four F-style clamps a decade ago for probably $5 at one of those tool 'auctions' of new stuff, the precursor to Harbor Freight (perhaps). Anyway, over the years they've lost their 'grab' and I can't tighten them with any certainty, with any significant pressure. But I've held off throwing them away.
> 
> Anyway,
> 
> Today I wanted to clamp through a doghole in my benchtop and reached for one of these bad boys. Ground off the stud at the end so the turnscrew piece would come off, and tried the clamp. Rats, no hold.
> 
> I pulled the two flat pieces of sheet stock out of the 'head' and took a file to the holes in each, to put a square edge back on them. Well, it worked! With the clamp together, through the bench, it held like crazy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to take apart the other three!


If filing the hole with a square edge is not enough, there is also the Matthias Wandel trick :

http://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/clamp-slip.html

It might help if the hole doesn't keep its edge.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reworking a Cheap F-Style Clamp*
> 
> I bought a set of four F-style clamps a decade ago for probably $5 at one of those tool 'auctions' of new stuff, the precursor to Harbor Freight (perhaps). Anyway, over the years they've lost their 'grab' and I can't tighten them with any certainty, with any significant pressure. But I've held off throwing them away.
> 
> Anyway,
> 
> Today I wanted to clamp through a doghole in my benchtop and reached for one of these bad boys. Ground off the stud at the end so the turnscrew piece would come off, and tried the clamp. Rats, no hold.
> 
> I pulled the two flat pieces of sheet stock out of the 'head' and took a file to the holes in each, to put a square edge back on them. Well, it worked! With the clamp together, through the bench, it held like crazy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to take apart the other three!


The clamp above actually had that done to it. It helped for a while, a bit, then went back to it's slipping ways. I'd guess both procedures done at the same time might be the way to go…

Thanks Sylvain.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Things that Arrive in the Shop*

A couple of purchases from the 'bay panned out last week and came in the mail today: A box of New Old Stock (NOS) Stanley pulls, a 9" No. 21 SW combination square (the 7" is alongside just because, well, because they're a set now!). From another source came a 10" Cincinnati Saw Company backsaw. This is a company name run by George Bishop in the later part of the 19th century, from what I've read. They all look good together, and it's nice to have them join the shop party!










Why edge pulls? I have no idea…


----------



## bluekingfisher

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Things that Arrive in the Shop*
> 
> A couple of purchases from the 'bay panned out last week and came in the mail today: A box of New Old Stock (NOS) Stanley pulls, a 9" No. 21 SW combination square (the 7" is alongside just because, well, because they're a set now!). From another source came a 10" Cincinnati Saw Company backsaw. This is a company name run by George Bishop in the later part of the 19th century, from what I've read. They all look good together, and it's nice to have them join the shop party!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why edge pulls? I have no idea…


Always nice to receive little goodies in the mail, I hope you put them to work and earn their place at the party


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Things that Arrive in the Shop*
> 
> A couple of purchases from the 'bay panned out last week and came in the mail today: A box of New Old Stock (NOS) Stanley pulls, a 9" No. 21 SW combination square (the 7" is alongside just because, well, because they're a set now!). From another source came a 10" Cincinnati Saw Company backsaw. This is a company name run by George Bishop in the later part of the 19th century, from what I've read. They all look good together, and it's nice to have them join the shop party!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why edge pulls? I have no idea…


Good haul Smitty.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Things that Arrive in the Shop*
> 
> A couple of purchases from the 'bay panned out last week and came in the mail today: A box of New Old Stock (NOS) Stanley pulls, a 9" No. 21 SW combination square (the 7" is alongside just because, well, because they're a set now!). From another source came a 10" Cincinnati Saw Company backsaw. This is a company name run by George Bishop in the later part of the 19th century, from what I've read. They all look good together, and it's nice to have them join the shop party!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why edge pulls? I have no idea…


Nice additions.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Things that Arrive in the Shop*
> 
> A couple of purchases from the 'bay panned out last week and came in the mail today: A box of New Old Stock (NOS) Stanley pulls, a 9" No. 21 SW combination square (the 7" is alongside just because, well, because they're a set now!). From another source came a 10" Cincinnati Saw Company backsaw. This is a company name run by George Bishop in the later part of the 19th century, from what I've read. They all look good together, and it's nice to have them join the shop party!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why edge pulls? I have no idea…


What are edge pulls I wonder


----------



## JayT

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Things that Arrive in the Shop*
> 
> A couple of purchases from the 'bay panned out last week and came in the mail today: A box of New Old Stock (NOS) Stanley pulls, a 9" No. 21 SW combination square (the 7" is alongside just because, well, because they're a set now!). From another source came a 10" Cincinnati Saw Company backsaw. This is a company name run by George Bishop in the later part of the 19th century, from what I've read. They all look good together, and it's nice to have them join the shop party!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why edge pulls? I have no idea…


Wait, do the edge pulls have a Sweetheart logo? It doesn't appear so. Smitty, have you progressed past the SW addiction into a full-fledged Stanley addiction?

I'm sure you will find places to put them all to good use, with stunning photos to prove it.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Things that Arrive in the Shop*
> 
> A couple of purchases from the 'bay panned out last week and came in the mail today: A box of New Old Stock (NOS) Stanley pulls, a 9" No. 21 SW combination square (the 7" is alongside just because, well, because they're a set now!). From another source came a 10" Cincinnati Saw Company backsaw. This is a company name run by George Bishop in the later part of the 19th century, from what I've read. They all look good together, and it's nice to have them join the shop party!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why edge pulls? I have no idea…


JayT, you caught me in a grab for not SW-marked Stanley, but NOS Stanley in general.

The pulls look useful, and commanded the grand sum of $3 on the 'bay. At some point, I know I'll build something with sliding doors or whatever where a pull like these. At least I think I will.


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Things that Arrive in the Shop*
> 
> A couple of purchases from the 'bay panned out last week and came in the mail today: A box of New Old Stock (NOS) Stanley pulls, a 9" No. 21 SW combination square (the 7" is alongside just because, well, because they're a set now!). From another source came a 10" Cincinnati Saw Company backsaw. This is a company name run by George Bishop in the later part of the 19th century, from what I've read. They all look good together, and it's nice to have them join the shop party!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why edge pulls? I have no idea…


Nice haul, Smitty! Those vintage tools look great on the bench!

A man can never have too many SW's in his shop…


----------



## planepassion

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Things that Arrive in the Shop*
> 
> A couple of purchases from the 'bay panned out last week and came in the mail today: A box of New Old Stock (NOS) Stanley pulls, a 9" No. 21 SW combination square (the 7" is alongside just because, well, because they're a set now!). From another source came a 10" Cincinnati Saw Company backsaw. This is a company name run by George Bishop in the later part of the 19th century, from what I've read. They all look good together, and it's nice to have them join the shop party!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why edge pulls? I have no idea…


Smitty, the handle on your 10" Cincinnati Saw Company backsaw looks similar to the one on my JH Nobel #1 backsaw. By chance is there any connection? Either way, that saw is one sweet addition to your saw nest and I look forward to seeing it in future project posts.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Things that Arrive in the Shop*
> 
> A couple of purchases from the 'bay panned out last week and came in the mail today: A box of New Old Stock (NOS) Stanley pulls, a 9" No. 21 SW combination square (the 7" is alongside just because, well, because they're a set now!). From another source came a 10" Cincinnati Saw Company backsaw. This is a company name run by George Bishop in the later part of the 19th century, from what I've read. They all look good together, and it's nice to have them join the shop party!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why edge pulls? I have no idea…


Brad, not that I've seen in any online resources (and they're very sparse for Geo. Bishop saws). He worked in Cincinnati from 1882 - 1899, and it most famous (infamous?) for the two-sided / reversible Bishop's Patent backsaw. I have one of those under a Simonds etch, for whatever reason.

Anyway, Geo. did Geo. Bishop saws as well as a couple other nameplates, plus the "Cincinnati Saw Company" line. Thick plates and rather heavy, but I liked the 16"er I have and am always on the lookout for more. The handles on either of them are pretty non-descript, I'd say. Downright plain, actually, when compared to just about any other sawline. But simple is good sometimes. Haven't run across the name JH Nobel, but I'll keep my eyes out now!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Things that Arrive in the Shop*
> 
> A couple of purchases from the 'bay panned out last week and came in the mail today: A box of New Old Stock (NOS) Stanley pulls, a 9" No. 21 SW combination square (the 7" is alongside just because, well, because they're a set now!). From another source came a 10" Cincinnati Saw Company backsaw. This is a company name run by George Bishop in the later part of the 19th century, from what I've read. They all look good together, and it's nice to have them join the shop party!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why edge pulls? I have no idea…


Found this on Nobel:

"J H Noble" was the secondary line of Richardson Bros of Newark, New Jersey who operated as a single company 1866-90, then formed an alliance with 3 other sawmakers (Wheeler, Madden &Clemson, Harvey Peace, and Woodrough & McParlin) to form "The National Saw Company" 1890-1906, which continued to market saws under the original names. Then taken over by Disston, although I don't think Disston continued to use the "Noble" label


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Things that Arrive in the Shop*
> 
> A couple of purchases from the 'bay panned out last week and came in the mail today: A box of New Old Stock (NOS) Stanley pulls, a 9" No. 21 SW combination square (the 7" is alongside just because, well, because they're a set now!). From another source came a 10" Cincinnati Saw Company backsaw. This is a company name run by George Bishop in the later part of the 19th century, from what I've read. They all look good together, and it's nice to have them join the shop party!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why edge pulls? I have no idea…


When are you going to start a Stanley museum?
Find em and save em Smitty.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Things that Arrive in the Shop*
> 
> A couple of purchases from the 'bay panned out last week and came in the mail today: A box of New Old Stock (NOS) Stanley pulls, a 9" No. 21 SW combination square (the 7" is alongside just because, well, because they're a set now!). From another source came a 10" Cincinnati Saw Company backsaw. This is a company name run by George Bishop in the later part of the 19th century, from what I've read. They all look good together, and it's nice to have them join the shop party!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why edge pulls? I have no idea…


Dave, you know as well as anyone that stuff in my shop is way less that 'Museum.' Everything must be used / usable, or it must go.  That said, I haven't checked the new square for 'square,' and the saw is duller than Watson. We'll see.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Things that Arrive in the Shop*
> 
> A couple of purchases from the 'bay panned out last week and came in the mail today: A box of New Old Stock (NOS) Stanley pulls, a 9" No. 21 SW combination square (the 7" is alongside just because, well, because they're a set now!). From another source came a 10" Cincinnati Saw Company backsaw. This is a company name run by George Bishop in the later part of the 19th century, from what I've read. They all look good together, and it's nice to have them join the shop party!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why edge pulls? I have no idea…


Congratulations on the new additions.

And as always thanks for providing fantastic photos for our viewing pleasure.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Saw Files*

There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.

Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.










Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


----------



## WayneC

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Saw Files*
> 
> There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.
> 
> Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


Excellent Find.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Saw Files*
> 
> There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.
> 
> Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


Thanks, Wayne. I can afford to be very selective from this point on saw files and for that I am grateful.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Saw Files*
> 
> There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.
> 
> Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


Smitty, great find! I tend to pass on boxes of files at flea markets around here. Guess I need to change my ways.


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Saw Files*
> 
> There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.
> 
> Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


You made a wise purchase Smitty. If I lived in an area of the US where I could lay my hands on NOS files, I'd buy the bleedin' lot.


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Saw Files*
> 
> There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.
> 
> Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


Lucky find! Or at least part luck since you went looking for them.


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Saw Files*
> 
> There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.
> 
> Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


Good deal Smitty. Its nice to have somethin else to hunt for as well. Ive got my eyes wide open for files now that im learned.


----------



## jjw5858

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Saw Files*
> 
> There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.
> 
> Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


Nice, nice, haul of saw files! Once you get into the groove with sharpening, you will love it! Follow Andy's great blog work, it will be a huge help! Enjoy!


----------



## 33706

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Saw Files*
> 
> There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.
> 
> Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


Great find, glad you bought 'em all!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Saw Files*
> 
> There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.
> 
> Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


Nice find Smitty. They will come in handy.


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Saw Files*
> 
> There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.
> 
> Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


Nice haul there, Smitty! They don't make 'em like they used to!


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Saw Files*
> 
> There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.
> 
> Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


...and the handles too? The metal one looks pretty cool.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Saw Files*
> 
> There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.
> 
> Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


Scotty, the wood handle came with one of the files but the cast iron handle I got from my dad's shop.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Saw Files*
> 
> There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.
> 
> Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


Sweet!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Saw Files*
> 
> There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.
> 
> Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


"The metal one looks pretty cool." +1 Scott.

Great stuff Smitty.


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Saw Files*
> 
> There has been a great deal of chatter across the interweb on saw files, or the lack thereof, and if nothing else it's heightened my awareness as I look through rust piles at fleas, auctions, etc. Yesterday I stopped at what otherwise is a regular haunt to find an irregular site: Bins containing saw files marked $1, $2, $3 etc based on length.
> 
> Well, I bunched up all the Keen Kutter files in whatever bin had them, then rounded out the search will files marked Nicholson USA and even a Simmonds or two. 25 files, $25. They look to be NOS / unused, especially the KKs. With this assortment nothing stands in the way of me and sharp handsaws but learning how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between Andy and Stef, I'll get there. And I'm looking forward to it!


Smitty what a find.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*

Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.










Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.




























It fit!










Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.




























Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.



















And the hinged door fit too!










Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.



















Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


Did you use one of your new turn screws?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


No sir, I did not. Went with the Hurwood…


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


Looking forward to the painted product. All I have is a 71 router, how do you like the small one? Also the drill, MF 2A?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


I love the #271 for mortising small hinges (like above). One side open throat, other side closed. It's one of the simplest of tools, and it works. The eggbeater is a MF-made, economy line drill: Mohawk-Shelburne. Value priced tools all started coming out around the time of the Depression (see also Stanley 4-Square line) that didn't have any bells or whistles.


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


Coming along nicely Smitty. I enjoy seeing those old tools and especially when they are actually being used.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


Its looking really nice Smitty!

Sweet 62 action! I love the patina the mallet handle is taking on there to.

Is that some kind of center finder for the hinges I see there?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


Maur, that mallet gets good 'southern exposure' as it's placed next to the window normally. Big enough to be quite persuasive if I need it to be (with a set of someday mortise chisels), yet with enough balance to run the SW bevel edgers. I still reach for my thor-shaped mallet when it's Everlasting time.

That punch is exactly that; put the edge in and press down; a retracted tip comes down to create a 1/16" starter mark in the center of each hinge fastener hole. I'll have to get a name off it and a better pic tonight.

The more I use the #62, the more I understand the talking heads that have offered the 'low angle planes replace all the rest!' mantra. Even though it's too long to be a real smoother, it's an effective smoother. It kills end grain. The A2 iron holds an edge forever… And it looks hoss.

Thanks, Mike! Are you suggesting some folks have old tools like these but choose not to use them? Crazy Talk!

;-)


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


Nice work Smitty. Old school style with fashion and flair (nice slippers).


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


Thank you Smitty; ever a pleasure watching you work.

The #62 used to get the door to size, did you work from the outsides of the stiles toward the rail center or one continuous pass along the entire door's top? I see chip-out and am wondering if that is the cause.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


Tony - outside working in. That blow-out was due to me not paying attention and going too far. The chip fell on the floor, and the floor refused to give it up. So it's a feature for now…


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


Got it. Thank ya Sir.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


I looked for that stinkin' scrap for awhile, then gave up. Because it'll be a painted piece, I may square up a notch and do a filler. Haven't decided yet, still kinda aggravated that it happened, wouldn't be hard to fix.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


the floor refused to give it up. So it's a feature for now…

Signature worthy right there.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


Kilz is great stuff. So is seeing this come together….


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


Progress being made today…


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


i'm not sure how I feel about the paint.


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## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


I like the area rug.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


It's scrap wood, just a form, and now it's a medicine cabinet. No problem painting it with a nice, gloss spray paint.  saving myself at least $100 by making this, and it's better quality.

The rug, Scotty, can be yours when I'm through using it for a grass cover.


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## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


Nice work Smitty. I cant help but stare at your lamp.I am going to find me one.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


Don't get any ideas Dave. I got dibs if Smitty ever wants rid of it.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


I'm not ready to part with it just yet…


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


I have been looking at every antique shop I coma across for its brother. I will find one.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Cabinet, Pt 2*
> 
> Last go-round, I insisted the project was moving along quickly. Hah. Today it was still like this (foot in the picture and all), on the floor of my shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planing of the inside face got the post-glueup faces cleaned up, then the #62 was called on to get the mirror doorframe to size for the cabinet's overall frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now onto some hinges. Old hinges, found screws in the wood screw drawer (which was tough, eight of them rqd), got to do some chislin' and malletin' work, which was nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled the holes with a Mohawk-Shelburne eggbeater.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the hinged door fit too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuff the mirror inside the back rebate (with a bit of silicone caulk applied for a bedding), then clamped all into place so the caulk has time to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to hit the cabinet with primer and get ready for finishing overall! Thanks for looking (and it was nice to get back into the shop!!)


Me too, and when I find another I'm selling for big $s to Scotty. That is how i'll finance my LN #51. bwah-ha-haaaa


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*

Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.










Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,










And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.










I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.










Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.



















And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…

==== ==== ==== ====

More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


I like the color Smitty. Will you wear the paint in different spots to replicate an aged piece?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


I might do that, Tony. Disappointed I didn't get it covered tonight, but it is what it is…


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Looking forward to seeing it completed.

Thanks for sharing Smitty.


----------



## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Smitty,

Great 'Father~Son' collaboration piece, the Milk Paint will set it off nicely.

@ Tony, ...when I paint, it seems I always wear the paint in different spots, the more I age the more I wear. * *

Best Regards. - Grandpa Len


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Looking good Smitty!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Thanks, Maur and Len, for taking a look. Certainly the largest piece to work it's way through the shop, but do-able. The project came out of a woodworking book I found at a book fair; I likes the proportions and it was milk painted as well, although that one was yellow. Just couldn't do that on this one.

I said above all parts were reclaimed, but that's not true. The panel doors were made at HS Shop with new poplar and, ahem, machines that include a router table.  Still a ways to go with this, unfortunately, but the cabinet has not complained thusfar about it's non-complete status. Really, the only thing pushing it forward is my desire to move it out of the shop, even though it has no place to go one completed. But I'll come up with something.


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Great looking project Smitty and I love the milk paint. I even found a recipe online for making it, but I haven't gotten to that yet.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Man, that T&G panel really pops in contrast to the blue color. What type of shelving?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Mike ~ I've been fascinated by those recipes too, and wanted to make my own milk paint, but convenience is just too much. Not the cheapest to buy, though… One bag is $12 and makes only a pint of paint, so it's $100/gal. Ouch. Now that I've typed that, maybe I should search out that recipe. 

Shelf boards are in Pics 4 and 5 above. Pine, of the same stuff as the sides.

Those will be primed and painted like the carcase.

More paint ordered this AM.

This piece is looking dangeroulsy 'Country' to my eye in the pics above. I'd rather it not, we'll see. Any way to pull it back from that precipice at this late juncture?


----------



## jjw5858

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


This looks awesome! Really nice job on this!


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


You could paint it black? That would decountryfy it.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Glitter and gold leaf should do it!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Boy, you two are loads of help… Now, where did I put that glitter?


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Sorry Smitty. I overlooked the shelves.

$100 / gal?! I had no idea that milk paint was that expensive. I wonder why.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Sparkly, Shiney, OOOOOO


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


It's Designer Paint, Scotty. How can you tell? Because I capitalized Designer Paint.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


:^)


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


it looks great Smitty. Nice job on the cabinet.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Hey I was serious about painting it black! But I just like dark colored furniture in general. 
I cant put my finger on what is making it look country. Maybe its the natural t&g back panel?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


You were? Sorry, but I'm not thinking there'd be a kitchen out there that'd want a black cabinet. That'd be wrong thinking, of course, so you caught me completely off guard…

Yesterday I looked into pigments that mix with wax that in turn gets applied to milk paint projects like this one to 'age' the look. Maybe I need that Liberon tudor oak stuff (ie: throw $ at the problem). Or I should just finish it and see where it goes.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


I cant put my finger on what is making it look country.

Its pine, its painted with milk paint, its got a T&G back, its tall and thin, traditional crown molding, traditional door knobs, and basic flat shelving. If that doesn't scream country, I'm not sure what does. All you need is Loretta Lynn posing next to it.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Yodaness.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Oh, man, you're killing me. It's supposed to be 'Federal,' or Colonial. Not Country.

The book said it was early Federal Period.

Stupid book.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


I think Maur might have something with the nat. wood back…


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Sorry Smitty, what do I know. I had to search Federal Style. It seems the federal style has a lot more detail. It was a spin off of Greek architecture. Don't get me wrong, this is a nice piece, and I really like it, but that's because its closer to shaker than greek.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


You know much, Yoda…

I'll find the Stupid Book and compare that completed project pic with this one as go from there.

The piece is nice, I like it too. I'll hold final Damnation Declarations until the paint is done, shelves are in and (tinted?) wax is applied.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Hey so maybe my comments were not totally useless. But how would it look with the back panel painted? Not sure if that would fix it.

I was in a pretty nice kitchen once that had simple black shaker style cabinets… for what its worth.

I'm no furniture style expert but I would have thought the crown molding and raised panel would set it apart from simple country furniture. I thinking of country furniture as being nailed together "boarded furniture" without all those details.

But what do I know, I'm just here for support!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


All comments are appreciated!

This is an in-work project I tossed open for input, and it took me a day for your suggestion to sink in. I won't rush into painting / changing the backing until it's more complete.

Federal as opposed to early federal, almost pennsylvannia folk.

And I'm no expert either. Far, far from it. Really, though, country does 'sell,' so maybe I shouldn't sweat it either way.


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


For what its worth Smitty, my house is loaded with "modern country" as my wife calls it and that piece would fit in well. The blue will be hard to match color scheme wise but that's what sets it apart IMO. It can be a real show piece kinda thing. That focal point if you will. Carry on with the blue paint …. you can always go over the top of it with another color of milk paint and wear away layers. General finishes makes a milk paint that I believe is slightly cheaper too. Martha Stefert signing off.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Thanks, Martha!


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


The stained T&G back panel is the best part. It provides contrast and interest.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


^ Documented authority on contrasting interests.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Always enjoy to see your work, it makes me feel that this is how it was supposed to be done.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Thank you, Mads! Hoping to get the rest of the painting done and posted over the weekend, more pics to come.


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Smitty normally I dont like paint. But I do like this and you picked a great color.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Hang around me, and it's a given you'll see paint, I guess.  Not all woods needs to be revealed. Didn't always feel that way, but now…

I am glad you like it, I appreciate the input.

And this piece wouldn't have been 'right' at all with any dyes or clear coat finishes. Not the whole thing, anyway…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Update in the OP above, second coat on and looking good. Should be 'stressing' this afternoon!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


looking good Smitty. I'm gonna need some Smitty expertise here shortly. Look for a "how do I do this" blog when I have a free moment.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Whatever I can do, Yoda, no problem.

~See update at the end of the OP…


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


It's looking great Smitty! Much better with the second coat.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Very handsome Smitty.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Thanks, Buds!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Man, you are good Smitty.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Tony, thanks!

~ Thought of you on Saturday, actually. I have an old push broom, you see, that features a dual-purpose handle; it pushes the broom and pushes paint rollers as the need arises in that it's the right thread for such duty. Anyway, the handle on this broom has been repaired using black tape. Not my job, someone else's handiwork, but the end of the tape had unraveled.

I brought the broom to my bench, clamped it in the end vise and trimmed said tape with a scissors. Not before thinking of your blog and toying with the idea of doing a complete restore job.

Maybe next time.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


Boom restorations are not befitting men of your talents. Don't squander your time, you've got stuff to do. ;-)


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


I call horse$hit on said squandering. A broom is a mighty force whitin the shop walls. Without it a rolled ankle or slippery croc is inevitable. Both can lead to down time … safety first. A happy broom is a measure of safety.

Big Blue is damn good lookin Smitty. Again from the salvage pile to the parlor. You's good mang.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Pewter Cupboard in Milkpaint*
> 
> Can't find where I introduced this, but it's a cabinet my son made in HS shop class last year but didn't finish. A 'threshold' was missing below the door that needed to be added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used the #66 to create add a detail to the main shelf,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with crown moulding it was ready for finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied 3:2:1 mix to the T&G back (all material is reclaimed), taped that off and primed the rest for milk paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight was the night to experiment with the stuff, a first for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ran out of said paint. Must order another bag to finish, but I like what I see so far / should complete very well…
> 
> ==== ==== ==== ====
> 
> More milk paint today, doors and carcase done, piece was 'stressed,' and 'antique oil' has been applied. With the blue tape pulled, here it is (just need to finish shelves)!


^ +1 on that call, right on Stef.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*

A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:



















No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…










And crown…










With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.

I went for milkpaint.










With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!










That's it, thanks for looking!


----------



## Airframer

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


That came out really nice! So are you keeping it or giving it to your son?


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Looks real good so far Smitty. I like the milk paint.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Son has no place for it, so it's in limbo awhile. Anyone living nearby can make us an offer, though.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


It came out great Smitty.

How was the base under the doors attached?

Thanks for taking the time to share with us.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


I can see some planes sitting on those shelves.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Shop furniture? Man, that would bring it to a whole new level!

Base under the doors… Hmmm… How to explain? I took no pictures of that fix, but what I did first was cut a 1x the width of the piece and screwed/glued it from underneath and behind the front face 'legs' to get a substrate in place. Then I cut and glued into place the finish piece you see in the pics to that substrate.

Of course, the last pic above shows the cabinet still being on a quick-and-dirty riser frame that I stuck under it for painting purposes, to get it off the floor. And the piece is certainly growing on me, the more I look at it. I'll do a project page once I get pictures of this tall thing that LJs doesn't insist on rotating when I insert them as project pics.


----------



## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


It looks nice Smitty. Well done.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Thank you for the explanation Smitty.

As for the pictures, is it too much of a pain for you to save them temporarily to your pc, manipulate/orient the photo as you like, upload them to LJ's and then delete them from your pc? No need to link the photo with that method. Maybe that will not work with iProducts though, I don't know.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Photobucket does the size-to-scale thing very well because I have that set by default. It's in the projects page of LJs that I get hung up, because it's pulling pics straight from the iPad's camera roll and LJ does not lett me rotate or scale or crop. Just Choose or Remove. Not had the issue before, don't know why now, but a little more playing is needed.

EDIT: Thanks, Shane!


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Great show Smitty! It turned out looking pretty sharp.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


My PB limit has been exceeded, so all my dynamically linked content here on LJs that resides in my PB account has been 'turned off' until the end of the month. I'm not paying a monthly fee to freely share content on LJs… Must change the way I compose posts here.

This one's been 'corrected' and displays well. Now, do I go through 113 other blog posts and do the same? I think not. Something has to give, though.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Wow, that will decimate a ton of learning material. That sucks, sorry to hear it Smitty.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


I actually wonder if LJs does 'calls' to systems like Photobucket (PB) when the database is backed up, for example. No way folks are digging through the stuff I've posted on a regular basis. It's either google queries that pull bandwidth or the LJ architecture that I'm up against.

It'll all return the end of the month, but this is likely a recurring thing now until I do something to push content straight to LJ vs. link to it via PB.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Smitty it came out great.


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## jjw5858

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Great job, looks terrific!


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## kizerpea

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cupboard in Milkpaint - Complete!*
> 
> A couple years ago now, my son and I worked through some reclaimed 1x stock for him to take to school for a shop project: a Pewter Cupboard. He and I jointed the edges with ole' Heft and Hubris (the #8, course!) and had fun with that, but it was his project to work over the course of the year at shop class. Well, he got close to completing it, but some final pieces were left undone and the carcase came home to roost. Here's what it looked like at that stopping point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No crown, no base under the doors. So it sat for about 14 months while I worked around it in the shop. Finally I had a number of items cleared and could dedicate some time to this cabinet. A shelf detail…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And crown…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With those parts added, it was ready for finishing.
> 
> I went for milkpaint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a couple coats and some 'stressing,' it looked pretty good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


I would like to learn more about the milk paint.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*New Medicine Chest, Done!*


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## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Chest, Done!*


What, no pics of man in shower? Nice work, the door fit is perfect. Any concerns with expansion?


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## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Chest, Done!*


Good result Smitty. Looks very nice.


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Chest, Done!*


Looks great Smitty.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Chest, Done!*


That looks excellent!!


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## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Chest, Done!*


Just the job Smitty. Very useful addition to your home.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Chest, Done!*


Thanks, Gents. I like the way it came out, given the addition of an adapted $8 ligbt kit from Menards. Push button switch top right cubby. Not my bathroom, but a friend's place. Very worthwhile.


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Chest, Done!*


Another great project down! Well done sir!


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## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Chest, Done!*


Smitty that does look very nice.
To me it has an art deco look.


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## iceman50

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Medicine Chest, Done!*


I like it a lot. Well done


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Labor Day Labours - Pine Tree to Future Stock*

Cut down a 50' ponderosa pine in the spring, today was the day my #2 son helped me load up the 9' trunk for a short trip to a nearby buddy with a Wood-Mizer.



















1" boards for the whole thing.



















90bf, cost me a thirty pack of beer…










Oh, and he had this pile of cherry… 330bf… headed for Houston TX. Beautiful!










===== ===== ====== ===== ===== ===== ===== ====

I brought my modest pile of pine back to the shop, where it's now stacked and stickered here at home, ready for a project (maybe) in 2016!

Under weight and a cedar plank:










 Thanks for looking.


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## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Labor Day Labours - Pine Tree to Future Stock*
> 
> Cut down a 50' ponderosa pine in the spring, today was the day my #2 son helped me load up the 9' trunk for a short trip to a nearby buddy with a Wood-Mizer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1" boards for the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90bf, cost me a thirty pack of beer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and he had this pile of cherry… 330bf… headed for Houston TX. Beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ===== ===== ====== ===== ===== ===== ===== ====
> 
> I brought my modest pile of pine back to the shop, where it's now stacked and stickered here at home, ready for a project (maybe) in 2016!
> 
> Under weight and a cedar plank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


The waiting begins. Nice haul worth waiting for.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Labor Day Labours - Pine Tree to Future Stock*
> 
> Cut down a 50' ponderosa pine in the spring, today was the day my #2 son helped me load up the 9' trunk for a short trip to a nearby buddy with a Wood-Mizer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1" boards for the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90bf, cost me a thirty pack of beer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and he had this pile of cherry… 330bf… headed for Houston TX. Beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ===== ===== ====== ===== ===== ===== ===== ====
> 
> I brought my modest pile of pine back to the shop, where it's now stacked and stickered here at home, ready for a project (maybe) in 2016!
> 
> Under weight and a cedar plank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


A 30 pack huh? Not bad.


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## Airframer

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Labor Day Labours - Pine Tree to Future Stock*
> 
> Cut down a 50' ponderosa pine in the spring, today was the day my #2 son helped me load up the 9' trunk for a short trip to a nearby buddy with a Wood-Mizer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1" boards for the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90bf, cost me a thirty pack of beer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and he had this pile of cherry… 330bf… headed for Houston TX. Beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ===== ===== ====== ===== ===== ===== ===== ====
> 
> I brought my modest pile of pine back to the shop, where it's now stacked and stickered here at home, ready for a project (maybe) in 2016!
> 
> Under weight and a cedar plank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


I have GOT to find me a friend with one of those lol.

Is that your son in the pics or a glimpse at the ever elusive Smitty?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Labor Day Labours - Pine Tree to Future Stock*
> 
> Cut down a 50' ponderosa pine in the spring, today was the day my #2 son helped me load up the 9' trunk for a short trip to a nearby buddy with a Wood-Mizer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1" boards for the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90bf, cost me a thirty pack of beer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and he had this pile of cherry… 330bf… headed for Houston TX. Beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ===== ===== ====== ===== ===== ===== ===== ====
> 
> I brought my modest pile of pine back to the shop, where it's now stacked and stickered here at home, ready for a project (maybe) in 2016!
> 
> Under weight and a cedar plank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


That's my buddy in the pic…


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Labor Day Labours - Pine Tree to Future Stock*
> 
> Cut down a 50' ponderosa pine in the spring, today was the day my #2 son helped me load up the 9' trunk for a short trip to a nearby buddy with a Wood-Mizer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1" boards for the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90bf, cost me a thirty pack of beer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and he had this pile of cherry… 330bf… headed for Houston TX. Beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ===== ===== ====== ===== ===== ===== ===== ====
> 
> I brought my modest pile of pine back to the shop, where it's now stacked and stickered here at home, ready for a project (maybe) in 2016!
> 
> Under weight and a cedar plank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


You've got a friend with one of those. You just need to move closer!


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## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Labor Day Labours - Pine Tree to Future Stock*
> 
> Cut down a 50' ponderosa pine in the spring, today was the day my #2 son helped me load up the 9' trunk for a short trip to a nearby buddy with a Wood-Mizer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1" boards for the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90bf, cost me a thirty pack of beer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and he had this pile of cherry… 330bf… headed for Houston TX. Beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ===== ===== ====== ===== ===== ===== ===== ====
> 
> I brought my modest pile of pine back to the shop, where it's now stacked and stickered here at home, ready for a project (maybe) in 2016!
> 
> Under weight and a cedar plank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Awesome trade, Smitty. I do love stickered wood!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Labor Day Labours - Pine Tree to Future Stock*
> 
> Cut down a 50' ponderosa pine in the spring, today was the day my #2 son helped me load up the 9' trunk for a short trip to a nearby buddy with a Wood-Mizer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1" boards for the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90bf, cost me a thirty pack of beer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and he had this pile of cherry… 330bf… headed for Houston TX. Beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ===== ===== ====== ===== ===== ===== ===== ====
> 
> I brought my modest pile of pine back to the shop, where it's now stacked and stickered here at home, ready for a project (maybe) in 2016!
> 
> Under weight and a cedar plank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


He's now on the lookout for a piece of oak 24"x4"x8'. Get that, and I'd build another bench.


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## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Labor Day Labours - Pine Tree to Future Stock*
> 
> Cut down a 50' ponderosa pine in the spring, today was the day my #2 son helped me load up the 9' trunk for a short trip to a nearby buddy with a Wood-Mizer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1" boards for the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90bf, cost me a thirty pack of beer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and he had this pile of cherry… 330bf… headed for Houston TX. Beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ===== ===== ====== ===== ===== ===== ===== ====
> 
> I brought my modest pile of pine back to the shop, where it's now stacked and stickered here at home, ready for a project (maybe) in 2016!
> 
> Under weight and a cedar plank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Being that I know next to nothing about pine, will it stay that color through the drying process? It looks to have some nice grain, color to it now. Guess the hard part will be the wait.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Labor Day Labours - Pine Tree to Future Stock*
> 
> Cut down a 50' ponderosa pine in the spring, today was the day my #2 son helped me load up the 9' trunk for a short trip to a nearby buddy with a Wood-Mizer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1" boards for the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90bf, cost me a thirty pack of beer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and he had this pile of cherry… 330bf… headed for Houston TX. Beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ===== ===== ====== ===== ===== ===== ===== ====
> 
> I brought my modest pile of pine back to the shop, where it's now stacked and stickered here at home, ready for a project (maybe) in 2016!
> 
> Under weight and a cedar plank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.












Some grayish streaks as the tree was dead for months before It was downed. 'Pine stains fast,' Andy said. So yeah, I 'spect it'll stay that way through drying.


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## BigRedKnothead

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Labor Day Labours - Pine Tree to Future Stock*
> 
> Cut down a 50' ponderosa pine in the spring, today was the day my #2 son helped me load up the 9' trunk for a short trip to a nearby buddy with a Wood-Mizer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1" boards for the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90bf, cost me a thirty pack of beer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and he had this pile of cherry… 330bf… headed for Houston TX. Beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ===== ===== ====== ===== ===== ===== ===== ====
> 
> I brought my modest pile of pine back to the shop, where it's now stacked and stickered here at home, ready for a project (maybe) in 2016!
> 
> Under weight and a cedar plank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Nice smitty. We were all doin the lumber thing this weekend. I cut down an ash tree with my brother. It didn't have much of a trunk on it, but I hate not to use some of it. We'll see. Don't really have a way to haul the trunk to my lumber guy. I'll have to get a pic of his setup someday. He still runs a giant circular blade powered by the pto of a old tractor


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Labor Day Labours - Pine Tree to Future Stock*
> 
> Cut down a 50' ponderosa pine in the spring, today was the day my #2 son helped me load up the 9' trunk for a short trip to a nearby buddy with a Wood-Mizer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1" boards for the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90bf, cost me a thirty pack of beer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and he had this pile of cherry… 330bf… headed for Houston TX. Beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ===== ===== ====== ===== ===== ===== ===== ====
> 
> I brought my modest pile of pine back to the shop, where it's now stacked and stickered here at home, ready for a project (maybe) in 2016!
> 
> Under weight and a cedar plank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


~Holy Cr*p, that is Old School!


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## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Labor Day Labours - Pine Tree to Future Stock*
> 
> Cut down a 50' ponderosa pine in the spring, today was the day my #2 son helped me load up the 9' trunk for a short trip to a nearby buddy with a Wood-Mizer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1" boards for the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90bf, cost me a thirty pack of beer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and he had this pile of cherry… 330bf… headed for Houston TX. Beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ===== ===== ====== ===== ===== ===== ===== ====
> 
> I brought my modest pile of pine back to the shop, where it's now stacked and stickered here at home, ready for a project (maybe) in 2016!
> 
> Under weight and a cedar plank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Good for you Smitty.

A 'Wink and a Nod' from Mother Nature for saving that tree from becoming worm food.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len.


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Labor Day Labours - Pine Tree to Future Stock*
> 
> Cut down a 50' ponderosa pine in the spring, today was the day my #2 son helped me load up the 9' trunk for a short trip to a nearby buddy with a Wood-Mizer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1" boards for the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90bf, cost me a thirty pack of beer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and he had this pile of cherry… 330bf… headed for Houston TX. Beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ===== ===== ====== ===== ===== ===== ===== ====
> 
> I brought my modest pile of pine back to the shop, where it's now stacked and stickered here at home, ready for a project (maybe) in 2016!
> 
> Under weight and a cedar plank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Great stuff Smitty, thank you.


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Labor Day Labours - Pine Tree to Future Stock*
> 
> Cut down a 50' ponderosa pine in the spring, today was the day my #2 son helped me load up the 9' trunk for a short trip to a nearby buddy with a Wood-Mizer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1" boards for the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 90bf, cost me a thirty pack of beer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and he had this pile of cherry… 330bf… headed for Houston TX. Beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ===== ===== ====== ===== ===== ===== ===== ====
> 
> I brought my modest pile of pine back to the shop, where it's now stacked and stickered here at home, ready for a project (maybe) in 2016!
> 
> Under weight and a cedar plank:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Smitty I cant wait to see what you do with this.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Grandpa's Bench*

My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.

Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.










Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.

The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.

That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


----------



## BensBeerStShop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


He would be proud to know you have and use them I'm sure. I still have a few of my Pop's tools myself.


----------



## yuridichesky

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


Thank you for sharing, good story.


----------



## CFrye

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


All old tools have a history. It's nice when you are fortunate enough to know it and even better when it is part of your own history. Thanks for sharing Smitty.


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## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


I sure your grandfather would be more than pleased that you treasure his tools and his workbench Smitty. I think most woodworkers become pretty fond of many of their tools, especially the ones that work well for them.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


Candy wrote my thoughts exactly.


----------



## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


Good for you Smitty,

I'm certain your Grandpa is smiling down on you.

...btw, I'll bet he knew a couple of tricks he'd like to share with you which probably include the use of potatoes and tea bags for aging the look of repairs. ...just sayin' ;-)

Best Regards. - Len

Work Safely and have Fun.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


Smitty, I only haver a few tools from my family. I do have some from friends and neighbors families so collectively I have "Family history" on many of my tools. I like it that way. On many of the others, I live near where they were made, and have been in the buildings of their manufacture. Either way I know theses tools. and intend to preserve them for the next generation.


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## waho6o9

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


That's a great story and bench Smitty, thanks for sharing.


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## 33706

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


wow… do you know how lucky you are, Smitty?


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## TerryDowning

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


nice score from way back. Best $5 bench I've ever seen.

Most of my tools are hand me downs and inheritance. It makes a lot of difference to me when using them to know a fellow family member has used these exact tools.


----------



## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


So is it going to undergo a face lift? Will it find a place in shop where it will be put back into service?


----------



## BarbS

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


That is just wonderful. You're so lucky to have his tools and bench!


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## helluvawreck

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


I love old workbenches. I can't imagine how special it would be to have the workbench that my grandfather used. I'm sure it is a wonderful heirloom to you, Smitty.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## RGtools

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


I love old workhorses like that. Thanks for sharing. I am sure you have plans to replace the drawer?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


Shane - So is it going to undergo a face lift? Will it find a place in shop where it will be put back into service?
Ryan - I am sure you have plans to replace the drawer?

First, thanks for all the comments. The bench was a very lucky find, with it's only downside being the fact the bench has been underutilized in my shop. It's held the desktop mortiser and drill press, but otherwise has been a collection point for all kinds of crap.

A1: The two-piece top got some attention when the bench moved into the workspace initially and is in good shape. The base needs some attention, and the nails of the base no longer hold much so overall the bench racks quite a bit. It will serve wonderfully as a top under which my tool chest can slide out of the way, so I have a plan. I'll blog on that when it comes to pass, though.

A2: It has a drawer, I just had it removed when the picture was taken. Nice hand-cut pull on it, too. Very cool.

I want to install some kind of vise on the bench, for sure, but haven't found anything suitable. Yet. That will up it's utility index considerably…


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench*
> 
> My grandad at various times of his life was a union carpenter as well as cabinetmaker. Ran his own shop and had, I'm sure, a number of workbenches in his cabinet shop. Well, many years ago at my great aunt's estate auction this bench came up for bid. I had noticed only minutes before it had been stamped with Grandpa's cabinet shop mark. Bought it for $5 and had it bouncing from garage to shed to wherever until my shop hit the scene. It's been there ever since, and got 'freed' tonight as I prepare to put down a wood floor.
> 
> Thought I'd take a decent picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow pine, or heart pine, or whatever tough grained, easily splintered, resinous, smells-good wood was commonly available in So. Ill. in the late 40s is what this is. Extra time has dried the 2x stock hard as a rock. Drawer is on my bench, visible at the top right of the pic.
> 
> The Stanley 400 and hand crank grinder are my add-ons but may not stay attached if the bench finds a new (better) location post-floor.
> 
> That's it, nothing necessarily spectacular, just wanted to post the picture. Wonder what Grandpa would think if he knew a number of his hand tools and even an old bench was here, together again?


Wonderful stuff Smitty.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Cut-offs Bin*

A very early build for my shop was this cut-offs bin. It was my first attempt at frame and panel joinery and is all salvage material. I joined the side boards via half-lap, used no screws until it was glued up and set (just added some runners on the bottom and inside slats to the sides). So far it's held up well.










It's outta there now to clear the shop room as it goes cleaned top-to-bottom. Not much of a blog entry, I know, but wanted to capture it as it's not been mentioned before. Thanks!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cut-offs Bin*
> 
> A very early build for my shop was this cut-offs bin. It was my first attempt at frame and panel joinery and is all salvage material. I joined the side boards via half-lap, used no screws until it was glued up and set (just added some runners on the bottom and inside slats to the sides). So far it's held up well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's outta there now to clear the shop room as it goes cleaned top-to-bottom. Not much of a blog entry, I know, but wanted to capture it as it's not been mentioned before. Thanks!


Smitty, not very big!! :0)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cut-offs Bin*
> 
> A very early build for my shop was this cut-offs bin. It was my first attempt at frame and panel joinery and is all salvage material. I joined the side boards via half-lap, used no screws until it was glued up and set (just added some runners on the bottom and inside slats to the sides). So far it's held up well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's outta there now to clear the shop room as it goes cleaned top-to-bottom. Not much of a blog entry, I know, but wanted to capture it as it's not been mentioned before. Thanks!


Not big enough, is it?


----------



## mojapitt

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cut-offs Bin*
> 
> A very early build for my shop was this cut-offs bin. It was my first attempt at frame and panel joinery and is all salvage material. I joined the side boards via half-lap, used no screws until it was glued up and set (just added some runners on the bottom and inside slats to the sides). So far it's held up well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's outta there now to clear the shop room as it goes cleaned top-to-bottom. Not much of a blog entry, I know, but wanted to capture it as it's not been mentioned before. Thanks!


Looks good, just gotta keep it full.


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cut-offs Bin*
> 
> A very early build for my shop was this cut-offs bin. It was my first attempt at frame and panel joinery and is all salvage material. I joined the side boards via half-lap, used no screws until it was glued up and set (just added some runners on the bottom and inside slats to the sides). So far it's held up well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's outta there now to clear the shop room as it goes cleaned top-to-bottom. Not much of a blog entry, I know, but wanted to capture it as it's not been mentioned before. Thanks!


Looks like a great use of re purposed wood.
It will do fine for the job it has ahead of it.
Nice work Smitty.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cut-offs Bin*
> 
> A very early build for my shop was this cut-offs bin. It was my first attempt at frame and panel joinery and is all salvage material. I joined the side boards via half-lap, used no screws until it was glued up and set (just added some runners on the bottom and inside slats to the sides). So far it's held up well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's outta there now to clear the shop room as it goes cleaned top-to-bottom. Not much of a blog entry, I know, but wanted to capture it as it's not been mentioned before. Thanks!


Looks better than the mess I got going on!!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cut-offs Bin*
> 
> A very early build for my shop was this cut-offs bin. It was my first attempt at frame and panel joinery and is all salvage material. I joined the side boards via half-lap, used no screws until it was glued up and set (just added some runners on the bottom and inside slats to the sides). So far it's held up well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's outta there now to clear the shop room as it goes cleaned top-to-bottom. Not much of a blog entry, I know, but wanted to capture it as it's not been mentioned before. Thanks!


More salvaged material. You rock Smitty.


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cut-offs Bin*
> 
> A very early build for my shop was this cut-offs bin. It was my first attempt at frame and panel joinery and is all salvage material. I joined the side boards via half-lap, used no screws until it was glued up and set (just added some runners on the bottom and inside slats to the sides). So far it's held up well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's outta there now to clear the shop room as it goes cleaned top-to-bottom. Not much of a blog entry, I know, but wanted to capture it as it's not been mentioned before. Thanks!


Great work Smitty. A cut-off bin can never be too big.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Grandpa's Bench, Redux*

Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.










The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.










But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.










I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.



















Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.



















A few more cuts for the drawer…










Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.










Here's the ones that were used.










Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.










This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Awesome.

If I my share some OCD. May I suggest an extension cord from the outlet that runs along the floor, up the corner behind Grandad's bench to a concealed power strip.

I hate electrical cords. They kill the look. Maybe it's just me.

Edit: hey! Wait a minute. I see ( or I don't see) that cord has been moved in the very last pic.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Second pic has such a cord.  Need to push it all the way into the corner though.

Thanks for the OCD, I have a dose of it too, sometimes…


----------



## waho6o9

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Good call on the cut down Smitty, looks good and proportional.


----------



## Tugboater78

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Lookin good! cant wait till the bench gets moved in and finishes the look!


----------



## quicksilver

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


I have a grinder like that.
Can't pat my head and rub my stomach at the same time.
So…not used.
Your shop is cozy.


----------



## alba

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Smitty that is coming along very nicely.

Jamie


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Nice work Smitty. You managed to make the bench narrower without ruining it's basic appearance, and it does look better with your tool cabinet now. I love the wood floor you put in. It really makes you shop look perfect and the absence of machine tools gives it a great atmosphere too. What's up next?


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


It looks right at home Smitty. I'm sure Grandad would be proud. Love the floor by the way.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


another "well done" portion.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Yep, the mortiser and drill press need to find new homes now. No power tools ay the front of the shop anymore.

Next is the tall hardware cabinet, the the extremely heavy table saw, then the assy bench. With those in, the workbench and RAS come back. That'll get me close to complete…


----------



## jjw5858

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Looks terrific Smitty! I love the old time look of your shop and fixing up your Grandfathers bench makes it as about as good as it gets! Enjoy it, it looks great!


----------



## helluvawreck

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


You sure are fortunate to have all of those heirlooms to work with. It's going to be very impressive.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Looks awesome , Smitty. Modded, but not ruined.

Love the wood floor!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Perfect.


----------



## ToddJB

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Smitty, great job. It was very considerate of your Grand dad building that bench in such a way to make your modifications so easy, and able to keep the same aged aesthetics. That took some serious foresight on his part


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Todd, you are so right. Probably something he would have said, too. heh


----------



## TerryDowning

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


I admit I had reservations about this undertaking. As a fellow tool inheritor, the idea of modifying something of grand dad's is an emotional one and a lot of though has to go into it. You done good though and I think grand dad would be proud of the re-purposing as well as the craftsmanship.

Awesome job Smitty!!


----------



## SamuelP

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


I like your conclusion on the piece being something your feel "obligated" to keep in your shop or something you love in your shop.

That helps put things in perspective, for me at least. I am lucky enough to have a good amount of hand-me-downs from my family and I like your mind set on the issue.

It looks great by the way.

Thank you.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Terry, I appreciate the candor. There are certainly folks out there that have read this blog entry and thought, 'No way I would have done that, and he shouldn't have done it either. Ruined a good bench, he did.' etc. etc. The way I see it, there's a track record in my posts of respecting the pieces I work on that don't have ties to family, and this action set a higher bar in that regard.

I've been considering this mod for weeks. Seriously.

Last night I went into the shop and thought, let's give the thing a look. If it comes apart without too much issue, I'll keep going. If not, well, time to reconsider. At this point I won't come out and say it was a throw-together bench, because it wasn't. The way the stretchers were notch-fitted into the legs tells me it took some time. On the other hand, simple 8d nails and no glue. Plywood drawer. And it was easy to pull apart. Too easy.

Five years ago, the bench was rotting in my great aunt's basement. I had it in a shed for a couple years, holding dog food cans and other detritus. It moved into my shop to serve as a table for a couple power tools up until October of this year. So it's not been a glorious existence for this piece of late. But now, the future is set. The bench, like grandad's skill base, is what I've set my tools and tool cabinet upon from this point and the two pieces will stay together for decades to come. Best I can do.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Sam, thank you for the comments. I was writing while you were posting…


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Smitty I love your taste and simple fact you re-purpose to get something to work for you.
Well done and the shop is looking top notch.


----------



## palaswood

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Smitty, What is the one piece of furniture in your shop you just could not live without? If you had to pick one besides the workbench.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grandpa's Bench, Redux*
> 
> Last installment of Shop Stuff showed Grandad's bench as it moved out the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood floor is done now, and it's time to move stuff back in. The bench was no exception, and it found new life as the base cabinet-like piece for my not-a-Wall Hung tool cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, long story short, I just didn't like that it was so much deeper than the tool cabinet. The aesthetic was wrong, and I need the depth when the workbench comes back into the space. So I debated a mod to Grandad's bench, to make it a long-term fixture in the shop that I love vs. one I feel obligated to keep as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to mod the piece, in the Depression-era mantra of Make Do or Do Without. Nine inches was the number. I'll re-use the nails, keep all the material, etc. The bench is nailed together, not glued, so the knock-down was quite easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut the top. One pass, then a second pass with additional depth, and it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few more cuts for the drawer…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hammered a few nails through the piece to get them ready for a new pounding; these drive through the back stretcher and into the drawer runners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the ones that were used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the backsplash, shortened the drawer and set it in place. Love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This part of the shop move / setup is done, thanks for looking.


Joseph, that is a tough question. Real tough.

The pictures above are really the only pieces of 'furniture' in the shop right now, so it's easy to limit choices to those items (bench, bench cabinet, not-so wall hung, wall hung inspiration piece, tool chest and saw till). At this point it would be the cabinet under the bench top that's critical. Chisels (two sets), rules, marking gauges, files, eggbeaters, #45, block planes, etc. are all in there and reached for every time I'm at the bench. More stuff in there than the chest will ever hold.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*

Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.










With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.

Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.










It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.










The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.










I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Smitty, library card files?


----------



## Airframer

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Love the card file idea. Have considered something similar for my tool cabinet.

What? You aren't keeping the paint? Feeling OK?


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


small parts bin. got to get me some!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Small parts bins, exactly.

Keeping paint, just different colors.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Just to keep it real. I think that is actually sea foam green.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.












Mostly gone is what it actually is now.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Smitty, is that your small drawer cabinet in the last picture? If so, that is an awesome piece. I'd love to acquire old draftsman's cabinet. Like so…


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


^ alrighty then.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Naw, just an image from the interweb for inspiration. I'm a sucker for old cabinets, but I don't have one like that. :-(


----------



## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Smitty,

Your credible organizational skills are penultimate.

...so if you are going in this direction and are planning to build this many compartmentalized storage drawers, you may as well familiarize yourself with this handy inventory cross index system.










Best Regards and Good Luck with that.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len ;-)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Oh my. It will not get that bad Len, I promise. It's more of an 'improve the functionality of this open shelving unit' thing, and the cubbies are the answer. Not convinced the result will be worth the effort required for the build, but it's a hobby, right?

Nice graphic, haven't thought of ole' Dewey in a long, long time!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


New set. New season. Right. On.


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Awesome small parts bin…much classier than the plastic trays!

If only the drawer pulls had SW on them…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


I'll have to search for NOS pulls, I guess.


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Should be really nice with the library card holders Smitty.


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Smitty is up to his ole tricks. Dewy decimal filing your chisels?


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Nice idea Smitty, but making all those tinny drawers doesn't sound fun.


----------



## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Smitty,

Go for it!!

Hand cut Box Joints or Dove Tails, which will it be?? ...times 60 drawers = ...uh, er, hmm, oh well, it's a hobby, Right??!!!

You'll be done in plenty of time to plant your vegetable garden. ;-)

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Fifteen brass pulls for $17 shipped…










That decides the width of these drawers…

Len, it's a single row of drawers so not 60. I'm thinking fifteen, broken by a couple verticals that keep the shelf from sagging. Won't hand-cut box joints, I'm thinking half blinds for the fronts with dados for the backs.

Design still very notional at this point (which means "I've not decided for sure.")


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Congratulations on your purchase, they look great. You'll need 60 brass slot screws now.

Notional, as you say. Though your comments allude to symmetry of drawer size however.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Yeah, symmetry is definite. And I have a source for brass slotted screws. Those and these handles will be stripped of any clear coat so they don't stay shiny forever, too.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


How will you tackle the stripping?


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


In clear heels with a stainless steel pole ^


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Even before I hit enter, I saw that one coming….


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Stef called that one, knows me too well he does.

(low tech. soak in a coffee can filled with gasoline, scrub 'em clean, let nature do the rest is the plan)


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Sorry, I was at the right place at the right time for the fish in a barrel shoot.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


There be pulls, Captain.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


15 drawers equals lots of dovetailing.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


But I like to aggravate myself…


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Are they still in a shiny state?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Yes. Soaked three days and they're shiny. Hit them with a propane torch, still shiny. I think they will be sprayed with a rattle can at this point…


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Interesting article on aging brass. http://www.steampunklab.com/howToAgeBrass.php

I bet ya didn't know you could pee on it and it would help to tarnish. Probably wouldn't be my method of choice but hey, its an option


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Oh, good stuff Stef!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


You get what you pay for.

The pulls aren't brass, but aluminum with some kind of brass-colored coating that didn't soak off with gasoline… So they'll get spray painted when the time comes. Oh, well.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Dang. I guess its hard for aluminum to get an attractive patina :^)

On second thought: if you are going to paint them you could employ the same technique as with tool chests. Paint two colors and epose the deep color as they are chipped and worn.

.....or maybe not.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Bummer. 
Looking forward to seeing your solution.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


I now have the red oak inside cove moulding needed to address the lack of a 'crown' on this cabinet, just need the time over the holiday to do the install. More to come (pictures or it doesn't happen, I know).


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


"pictures or it doesn't happen, I know" - As long as we are clear…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Materials in the front, patient in the back.










A little de-mod of the bad idea that was the patient's crown.



















The cutting of the oak.





































Time to glue up an end pair…




























Doing it this way guarantees the pieces are square and makes for an easy nail up to the cabinet.

So with this in glue set-up, the rest waits 'till later!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Friggin' awesome Smitty. Great shots capturing it as always. Thank ya Sir.

Man that floor is nice.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Thanks, Tony, for the comments.

One other thing done tonight. A shelf created for the Patient is plywood; the edge was ugly.










Leftover oak was ripped thin and made ready for a basic 'edge banding' operation.










So here goes.










Finish will be applied later.


----------



## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


'Smitty_*Cabinet*shop'

...living up to the monikor, with passion and pride.

Enjoyable, informative and thought prevoking blogs, done well.

Best Regards for a Merry Christmas and a Happy and productive New Year.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Am I done?





































Done!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Oh yea, you da man! I do like it.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


BTW you DID use a 45 to make that moulding, right?


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


But its not painted yet. ;-)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Not hand made moulding, not going to be painted. It will have to darken over time, I'm sure it will.

Thanks, fellas!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Scotty needs to sign off on it…...

Looks great Smitty.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes, Cont'd*
> 
> Long time ago, I lamented about underutilized space in this cabinet and did some rework to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the shop being re-assembled post-floor, some more work needs to be done on this cabinet that was originally in a hardware store. it does come apart, top unit and bottom unit. And the top unit includes a curved back to it (visible above the coffee cans and gray parts bin), apparently when there were curved 'seed bins' that pulled out.
> 
> Time to go, it's cramping my style / wasting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's very thin (1/8") masonite, easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dream is to put a row of small parts bins in top portion of the space cleared of this curve (note the upper unit is upside down in the last two pics). Here's what I have in mind - a row of these, oak faced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the oak, and plan to dado the cabinet sides to accept a new 'shelf' that defines the cubby shelf to be. Oh, and all the day-glo green has to go. More to come.


Done and well done


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*

Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.

But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.

To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…



















With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.



















Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.










Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.














































A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)










A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…










Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.










Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun… 

As always, thanks for looking!


----------



## Handtooler

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Yuo are a staunch friend of inginuity! In the southern venacular "Ya done Good." That's quite an achievment.


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Well done Smitty, and you got some good exercise at the same time.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Nice work Smit. I am curious as to the fate of the crochet hook. Time will tell.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


The oak edger concept is already on the cabinet piece, just with oak that's not as wide as this will be and with poplar vs. pine.










Getting this new piece nice and flat will be critical, as drawers will slide directly on it when it's matched to the cabinet.

Stay tuned for the Fate of the Crochet…


----------



## racerglen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Hush Steph, he said "crochet" not, well we know how your mind works..

;-)


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


I do like me a good game of croquet.

Keep up the good work Smitty.


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Thanks for sharing the great knowledge as usual, Smitty!

All your projects would progress faster if you didn't spend so much time with the mood lighting, and excellent photography! But, you are teaching blokes like me with every post. I say it a lot, but I wish you had a TV series! 

Now, I see why I would really want an edge trimming plane…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Just realized with 375+ readings of this blog post, no one has commented on the pine board having wallpaper and bird droppings all over. I guess most don't get past the intro sentences before moving on to more interesting reading. heh

Ripping red oak with the #40 was indeed exercise, Mike! Made realize I'm no longer in "plane condition," it's been too long!

Terry, thanks. But you gotta know mine is a hacker's tale, just putting out there how I do things based on gosh-knows-what-kinda influences I've picked up along the way. I certainly appreciate the positive comments, very kind. Oh, and I don't adjust lighting; working slowly comes natural to me.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


I noticed it was a mess but you said it was salvaged and that can mean anything. My first thought was that it originated from your master bath but I didn't want to question your domestic hygiene in "public."


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Just a newbie observation. I use a joiner fence on my #'s 7&8, is the #95 better? Since it's short I don't see how it could ensure a flat and square edge. Just. My 2 krona.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Kevin, fair enough. Here's where I am on that.

The jointer (#8) gives me a true edge on the flat, negating the impact of short re: the #95. Over the years, however, I seem to consistenty apply somewhat of a bevel on my edges, with my side being lower on the square (applied per the picture above) that the away side. I always have to adjust the jointer and make a couple / three more passes to address the error, but even then I sometimes end up with a humpline vs. an edge that is square to the board's face.

This is the third time I've reached for the #95 to apply square, and in two passes it's done.

I have a jointer plane fence (#286?) but find it's cumbersome to put in place and adjust, also it hangs too far down on the face of the piece; usually hits the vise chop.

So the fence remains in the cabinet and the #95 is getting some use.

Excellent krona.


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Ive got the same issue with putting a slight bevel on an edge when im attempting to joint by hand. Glad to see that im not the only one. Ya made me feel better about myself today Smitty. Thanks buddy.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Anything I can do to help, stef. I'm here for ya, you know that.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Smitty and Sir Steff, I didn't say I was good at what I do, just that's how I do it. Still takes a couple of passes. ':0)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


I use a jig to get a consistent bevel when sharpening, but insist on going free-hand to apply a square edge to my work piece. Go figure.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Smitty, I do think that my joiner fence is easier to use than yours. I have an EC Stearns and the clamping is quick. I do however joint short boards freehand with pretty good results.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


+1 on the beveled edge while jointing


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


There, there, Scotty. Now didn't that feel good?


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


I know I feel better. Can I get a group hug?


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Yeah, I feel LOTs better, too! Thought I was just retarded for wanting a plane with a fence for that task! Group hug was sweet, Stef! LOL.

...oh, Chicken poop? what chicken poop?


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


like the guard critter!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Smitty, thats some saw dude! Goes both ways.


----------



## Handtooler

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Hey, Oldie, Is the portion extending from the back saw rib for cutting veener sheets by chance? Two-in-one.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


the saw is a Geo. Bishop design. Blade is two different TPI / PPI, I use it for cutting dados as I believe that was the original purpose. There's some info on the web re: these saws, but not much. It is my preferred method for dado cutting.

I have no idea how the end of the blade could be effectively used; the back won't hold it.


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


I never get tired of watching your shop.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cabinet Changes - Making a Board (?)*
> 
> Yeah, I titled this "Making a Board (?)" because that's what it entails. I have a need for a board that is 17" wide and 93" long, oak along the front edge. Ain't got one of those handy, so I have to make it out of a salvage piece of pine along with some rough cut red oak. How, you may ask? Well, I doubt that you asked, but I'm certain you know the process is forthcoming. If you know anything about my installments here on LJs, you know a process is forthcoming.
> 
> But, I digress. And I'll digress again before making progress on board-making… So here goes.
> 
> To effectively joint 8' boards using a 6' bench is tough. And jointing said boards when they're 14" wide is even harder when there's a crochet preventing the board's edge from assuming a comfortable working height when held by the leg vise. So for the first time EVER since building my bench more than three years ago, I removed the crochet. And man, I don't remember using such long, honking' lags…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that off and the board in place, I found one edge had a split repaired with a couple long, finish 'cut' nails. That came apart and was glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the wide board next to the oak pieces that will be drawer fronts as well as 'front edge' material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned my attention next to the red oak 'edger' board by jointing one edge of that one to mate to the pine that was getting repaired. Chalked a straight line (board was bowed worse than it looks to be in the pic), ended up using the #40 scrub to get it roughly shaped before finishing up with the #5 then Heft and Hubris himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final couple passes with the #95 ensured all was square… (beginning to like that tool)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of passes on the pine board (glue set up fine after a couple hours of errands…) got it nice and straight, and the dry-fit matched up both boards with no light between on the first check! Wow…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamps applied, and I've made a friggin' board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next installment, I'll use the panel gauge to mark this board for consistent width, joint it again, then rip it into two pieces to run through the lunchbox planer for consistent thickness. Oh, then glue it back together again. Ah, such fun…
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


I love the shots of the tough looking scar faced scrub in action!

Also, I need me a couple of #95's.

I have found that the key to jointing (for me) is using a plane with a camber in it that way I can tweak how much i take off of each side by using a different part of the board. That said, I want to make a jig for edge planning boards with the plane riding on its side. Like the Japanese do. Makes sense anyway.

I'll mention the dirty wood. Man you use some nasty wood Smitty!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*

Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…

So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.



















Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.










A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…










Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.










Test fit…










After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.










Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.










Love that plane…










Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…










... and cut some bead-board.










Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:










There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…

Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


Good work on the rustic shelf unit and that new bench too Smitty. It looks like you are getting a lot of enjoyment out of your hand tools and I have to admit that your shop looks very inviting without all the heavy machinery and dust coating we see in most other shops (including mine).


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


Nice retrofit.


----------



## racerglen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


Lookin' good !


----------



## NinjaAssassin

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


That's looking good Smitty. I've gotta say, your shop is one of my favorites. Like stefang said, so warm and inviting.


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


+1 to the inviting shop, Smitty. Love the flooring!

Nice 8 foot long dado, too. No need for a table saw and outfeed and featherboards…


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


I am expecting to see some lanterns and the electric panel box laying out on the lawn any day now!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


I've done rip-sawing on this project at the bench, with panel saws, by clamping boards vertically in the leg vise. Going full-on with a hand-tools-only shop is toughest (so far) when it comes to ripping stock. Thick stock especially. Long (over four feet) also.

The RAS is staying, the table saw is still 'out.'


----------



## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


The shop is really coming together nicely. We need to.see a shot someday of what has to be a bottomless supply of reclaimed wood. You always seem to have some on hand.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


Ripping a piece of hickory…










Shane, showing the stash is like sharing a great fishin' hole… Might be bad karma. ;-)


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


"I am expecting to see some lanterns and the electric panel box laying out on the lawn any day now!" - Would a slowing in Smitty's productivity even be perceivable under such circumstances?

Great stuff Smitty. Thank you.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


Painting.










Man, ripping at the bench is not something I love. The table saw is so good for ripping…


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


Smitty, great satisfaction from those long rips. I used the end vise for mine.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


Good show Smit.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


Ready for top trim.










Cove and 1x of pine, the G-P gets some work.



















And here's the 'State of the Shelf.'


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


Always a pleasure


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


Like it has always been there….


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


What Don said.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


Thanks, all.

The original 'hardware store cabinet' has a single sheet of galvanized steel (screwed in place around the perimeter) serving as the back. We have a sheet metal place in town, and the plan is to get a right-sized piece for this cabinet too. Paint it the same color as the HW piece, etc. etc. then this one will be finished.

I'm liking the look.

Added Watco's to the leading edges of the case last night (where the blue tape is visible above) and put some stuff in it as it may be awhile before sheet metal comes. In the meantime, I'm calling this one a win.


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


A huge pleasure and I love the green.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Wally331

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


man your shop is so sweet smitty, You really have a talent for reclaiming boards, anything that comes through for me needs to hit the handplanes first. I can never get rustic to look good. Really nice shelf, great work from handtools too.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


You know one of the tasks I find the most fun with hand tools is cutting dados. Sawing, chiseling, Chopping and paring with a chisel, router plane work…. Its just a bunch of fun with hand tools.

I want to find me an old ¾" dado plane. That and an old skew iron fillister plane with a fence.

That shelf is coming out awesome! Great show.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


I've got a decent 'system' down now on dadoes that works for me.

- Mark size of dado with actual piece to be fit
- Cut inside those lines with Gent's backsaw. This starts the cuts.
- Finish to depth with Bishop adjustable backsaw
- Clean out with router plane (several depth adjusts may be necessary)

No more chiseling, or chopping, or paring. I like it.

Thanks Wally and Mads and Maur, for stopping by!


----------



## TerryDowning

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


Looking great smitty!


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


Hmm, interesting approach. So the gent saw goes right into to the knife line eliminating the need to make a v with a chisel first? Also, you don't do the "chisel out one side first before marking out the other side" routine?

The thing I like about chiseling out most of the waste is that I can leave my router set at final depth for consistency. How do you ensure consistent depth if you are constantly adjusting the router? I'm guessing you just reset it into the gauge line each time.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


Depth stop on the #71 router tells me when I'm done.

Yes on gent saw. And I'm not familiar with the 'routine' you speak of. It is designed to ensure the width you're getting is what's intended, by dbl-checking when one side is 'cut?'


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


In place, at rest. Metal back still to come, but in the meantime it's clear the hardware cabinet needs better top mouldings.


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


100% agreed on hardware cabinet molding. Just a lil sumpin sumpin though imo.

I hail your paint choices. Youve single handily (sp?) changed my opinion on painted surfaces.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet In-Work...*
> 
> Really nothing much to see here, just goofing around with storage stuff in the workspace, post-floor, and wanting everything to match at least kinda…
> 
> So I have a large base cabinet that I call an assembly (assy) table. It was painted up when it came back into the space with colors that complimented the hardware cabinet in the background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time, though, for a shelving piece that sits at the wall-end and compliments the styling of said hardware cabinet as well. So I pulled some on pine 'stuff' from inventory to make a shelf using only hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of fixed shelves set into side dadoes…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joint the edges that will 'show on the front of the piece, initially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test fit…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a distraction the last couple days, fixing something in the house, I came to the shop tonight to this sight and decided to take a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled the #50 into service for another dado, this one with the grain and on the underside of one of the fixed shelves; it will hold a piece that the bead-board will sit against.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love that plane…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time for glue-up of what I had so far…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and cut some bead-board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how the unit is looking from the backside, right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a single vertical piece to be done, along with a couple face trim elements that will pull it into style with the other shop cabinets. Then, of course, paint. heh, I know how some of you love my painting… not…
> 
> Until then, as always, thanks for looking.


I should work on commission for PPG, right?

lol

There is no problem for me adding paint alongside natural wood. Too much of either doesn't work as well as a good balance, to my way of thinking. Some wood is obviously too good to paint over. Others, not so much.

The hardware cabinet will get the lil' cove and straight treatment, just like all the other cabinets in the shop. Kinda a consistency thing that I have going on.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Artwork: Carlyle (IL) Swinging Bridge*

I have this painting of the General Dean Suspension Bridge in Carlyle, IL. It is painted on a 4'x8' sheet of masonite, with a pencil sketch on the reverse (smooth) side and the finished work on the textured side.










The painting is signed R. Czerwonka, and I know nothing of this gentlemen but it may be:










RAYMOND CZERWONKA of Hoffman IL

Date of birth: December 13, 1927
Date of death: June 15, 2007

Just posting it here because Google finds nothing on any of this. Maybe someone will find it here now and tell me more about this great painting.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Artwork: Carlyle (IL) Swinging Bridge*
> 
> I have this painting of the General Dean Suspension Bridge in Carlyle, IL. It is painted on a 4'x8' sheet of masonite, with a pencil sketch on the reverse (smooth) side and the finished work on the textured side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The painting is signed R. Czerwonka, and I know nothing of this gentlemen but it may be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAYMOND CZERWONKA of Hoffman IL
> 
> Date of birth: December 13, 1927
> Date of death: June 15, 2007
> 
> Just posting it here because Google finds nothing on any of this. Maybe someone will find it here now and tell me more about this great painting.


That is wonderful Smitty.


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Artwork: Carlyle (IL) Swinging Bridge*
> 
> I have this painting of the General Dean Suspension Bridge in Carlyle, IL. It is painted on a 4'x8' sheet of masonite, with a pencil sketch on the reverse (smooth) side and the finished work on the textured side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The painting is signed R. Czerwonka, and I know nothing of this gentlemen but it may be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAYMOND CZERWONKA of Hoffman IL
> 
> Date of birth: December 13, 1927
> Date of death: June 15, 2007
> 
> Just posting it here because Google finds nothing on any of this. Maybe someone will find it here now and tell me more about this great painting.


I found a reference to Mr Ray Czerwonka in:

THE EIGHTH ANNUAL TOWN AND COUNTRY ART EXHIBITION
University of Illinois College of Agriculture
and College of Fine and Applied Arts
Cooperating
Architecture Building Gallery
September 22-28, 1963

We are proud to present the work of the amateur artists of Illinois.

The eighth annual Illinois Town and Country Art Exhibition reflects the growing
interest of Illinois residents in art and craft work.

Fifteen University of Illinois art judges sele'cted pieces at 29 local shows for
this exhibition. There are 237 exhibitors from 38 widely scattered Illinois
counties represented in the exhibition.

Judges for this exhibit were Professors Peter Bodnar, Harry F. Breen and Donald
E. Frith. They awarded blue ribbons to those considered to merit special recognition.

The exhibition is open to the public:
1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m., September 22-27
9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m., September 28

Many of the paintings are for sale at the prices indicated. Arrangements for
purchase should be made with the artist.

Ray Czerwonka exhibited a watercolor painting called 'Spring Plowing'










So this tells us that at the time of this exhibition (1963) Ray was an amateur artist in Illinois.

The above show still takes place. See here: http://www.news-gazette.com/arts-entertainment/local/2013-09-18/amateur-art-show-display-springer.html


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Artwork: Carlyle (IL) Swinging Bridge*
> 
> I have this painting of the General Dean Suspension Bridge in Carlyle, IL. It is painted on a 4'x8' sheet of masonite, with a pencil sketch on the reverse (smooth) side and the finished work on the textured side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The painting is signed R. Czerwonka, and I know nothing of this gentlemen but it may be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAYMOND CZERWONKA of Hoffman IL
> 
> Date of birth: December 13, 1927
> Date of death: June 15, 2007
> 
> Just posting it here because Google finds nothing on any of this. Maybe someone will find it here now and tell me more about this great painting.


Could this be him?

http://www.ancestry.com/1940-census/usa/Illinois/Ray-Czerwonka_54s5py


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Artwork: Carlyle (IL) Swinging Bridge*
> 
> I have this painting of the General Dean Suspension Bridge in Carlyle, IL. It is painted on a 4'x8' sheet of masonite, with a pencil sketch on the reverse (smooth) side and the finished work on the textured side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The painting is signed R. Czerwonka, and I know nothing of this gentlemen but it may be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAYMOND CZERWONKA of Hoffman IL
> 
> Date of birth: December 13, 1927
> Date of death: June 15, 2007
> 
> Just posting it here because Google finds nothing on any of this. Maybe someone will find it here now and tell me more about this great painting.


That is a very nice painting Smitty. It would have been fun to see if he has some family somewhere who knew about it or at least would like to know about it.

It would be an awful big coincidence if there were 2 R. Czerwonkas who were both artists in that same time frame.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Artwork: Carlyle (IL) Swinging Bridge*
> 
> I have this painting of the General Dean Suspension Bridge in Carlyle, IL. It is painted on a 4'x8' sheet of masonite, with a pencil sketch on the reverse (smooth) side and the finished work on the textured side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The painting is signed R. Czerwonka, and I know nothing of this gentlemen but it may be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAYMOND CZERWONKA of Hoffman IL
> 
> Date of birth: December 13, 1927
> Date of death: June 15, 2007
> 
> Just posting it here because Google finds nothing on any of this. Maybe someone will find it here now and tell me more about this great painting.


Centralia and Hoffman tie in very well, Andy. Wow, that's great stuff you found on the art exhibit!

Chicago may have been his home in 1940, but that is about five hours north.

Mike, there was a Czerwonka in the local HS (son of Ray?) in 1970…


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Artwork: Carlyle (IL) Swinging Bridge*
> 
> I have this painting of the General Dean Suspension Bridge in Carlyle, IL. It is painted on a 4'x8' sheet of masonite, with a pencil sketch on the reverse (smooth) side and the finished work on the textured side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The painting is signed R. Czerwonka, and I know nothing of this gentlemen but it may be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAYMOND CZERWONKA of Hoffman IL
> 
> Date of birth: December 13, 1927
> Date of death: June 15, 2007
> 
> Just posting it here because Google finds nothing on any of this. Maybe someone will find it here now and tell me more about this great painting.


Wow, amazing detective work Andy!


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Artwork: Carlyle (IL) Swinging Bridge*
> 
> I have this painting of the General Dean Suspension Bridge in Carlyle, IL. It is painted on a 4'x8' sheet of masonite, with a pencil sketch on the reverse (smooth) side and the finished work on the textured side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The painting is signed R. Czerwonka, and I know nothing of this gentlemen but it may be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAYMOND CZERWONKA of Hoffman IL
> 
> Date of birth: December 13, 1927
> Date of death: June 15, 2007
> 
> Just posting it here because Google finds nothing on any of this. Maybe someone will find it here now and tell me more about this great painting.


That might be your retirement Smitty. 
I see antiques roadshow in your future.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Artwork: Carlyle (IL) Swinging Bridge*
> 
> I have this painting of the General Dean Suspension Bridge in Carlyle, IL. It is painted on a 4'x8' sheet of masonite, with a pencil sketch on the reverse (smooth) side and the finished work on the textured side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The painting is signed R. Czerwonka, and I know nothing of this gentlemen but it may be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAYMOND CZERWONKA of Hoffman IL
> 
> Date of birth: December 13, 1927
> Date of death: June 15, 2007
> 
> Just posting it here because Google finds nothing on any of this. Maybe someone will find it here now and tell me more about this great painting.


You may say I'm a dreamer… Well I'm not the only one.



Can you imagine hefting a full-sheet painting around all day? That'd be something, alright.

If the local paper had anything on-line, a search may have turned up the painter's name. There was an image just like this one behind the side-bar of the local American Legion Hall; that's gone, but I remember seeing the painting when I was much, much younger. There would have been something in the paper, I'd think. But, who knows?


----------



## CharlyAnn

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Artwork: Carlyle (IL) Swinging Bridge*
> 
> I have this painting of the General Dean Suspension Bridge in Carlyle, IL. It is painted on a 4'x8' sheet of masonite, with a pencil sketch on the reverse (smooth) side and the finished work on the textured side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The painting is signed R. Czerwonka, and I know nothing of this gentlemen but it may be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAYMOND CZERWONKA of Hoffman IL
> 
> Date of birth: December 13, 1927
> Date of death: June 15, 2007
> 
> Just posting it here because Google finds nothing on any of this. Maybe someone will find it here now and tell me more about this great painting.


This to me is a strange coincidence that you only posted this a few months ago and that I did a search for it today. I have been helping my mom clean out her attic the last couple of days and I just came across a painting that he did on a gold edged plate. I never knew that my grandparents had any of his work.

I am quite sure that this was probably Ray Czerwonka from Hoffman, IL. Hoffman is about 10 miles from Carlyle. I knew Ray, he was my neighbor across the street growing up. Hoffman is a very small town of about 500 people (now). Even when I was a kid, everyone knew most everyone else in town. I am 45 years old and spent my whole childhood here and a few years more recently. This is still where my mother lives.

Like I said, he was my neighbor and next door to him was a tavern called the Hoffman House. It has been called that for as long as I can remember and many years before that as well. There are 4 murals on the walls there that he painted. Two of them were covered up (and I hope not damaged in the process) quite a few years ago, I'm thinking 15-20. One is behind the bar and runs most of the length of it. I think these 3 depict birds and bird dogs in grasses. The other one is a very large one, I'm guessing it to be 5'x20'...at least. It is a painting of the main street in Hoffman from back in the day. On the one side of it, it shows his house, the tavern and the railroad crossing. It even shows an early model car driving through and a woman lifting her skirts to cross the muddy road. My mom said that she remembers him painting them and says she thinks she was in high school at the time, so I am guessing that would make those paintings about 50 years old, give or take.

It might seem strange, his artwork in the Hoffman House has always been special to me. Maybe because I knew the artist and the large mural is about my town and the mystery to me of a time before my own. I do not know much more about him, other than he enjoyed gardening, owned an antique shop, was a kind man and never had an art lessen in his life. I Last I knew, he did still have family in the surrounding areas and I might have to see if I can contact any of them and pass along this blog.

Thanks for sharing the pic that gives me another look at a local artists work depicting local history and a chance to share with you what I know about the artist.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Artwork: Carlyle (IL) Swinging Bridge*
> 
> I have this painting of the General Dean Suspension Bridge in Carlyle, IL. It is painted on a 4'x8' sheet of masonite, with a pencil sketch on the reverse (smooth) side and the finished work on the textured side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The painting is signed R. Czerwonka, and I know nothing of this gentlemen but it may be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAYMOND CZERWONKA of Hoffman IL
> 
> Date of birth: December 13, 1927
> Date of death: June 15, 2007
> 
> Just posting it here because Google finds nothing on any of this. Maybe someone will find it here now and tell me more about this great painting.


Wow, awesome info! i've spent time in the Hoffman House, know it well!

Thank you for posting, let me know if there is family in the area with an interest in seeing the painting first-hand.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Artwork: Carlyle (IL) Swinging Bridge*
> 
> I have this painting of the General Dean Suspension Bridge in Carlyle, IL. It is painted on a 4'x8' sheet of masonite, with a pencil sketch on the reverse (smooth) side and the finished work on the textured side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The painting is signed R. Czerwonka, and I know nothing of this gentlemen but it may be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAYMOND CZERWONKA of Hoffman IL
> 
> Date of birth: December 13, 1927
> Date of death: June 15, 2007
> 
> Just posting it here because Google finds nothing on any of this. Maybe someone will find it here now and tell me more about this great painting.


Yep. Wonderful.


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Artwork: Carlyle (IL) Swinging Bridge*
> 
> I have this painting of the General Dean Suspension Bridge in Carlyle, IL. It is painted on a 4'x8' sheet of masonite, with a pencil sketch on the reverse (smooth) side and the finished work on the textured side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The painting is signed R. Czerwonka, and I know nothing of this gentlemen but it may be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAYMOND CZERWONKA of Hoffman IL
> 
> Date of birth: December 13, 1927
> Date of death: June 15, 2007
> 
> Just posting it here because Google finds nothing on any of this. Maybe someone will find it here now and tell me more about this great painting.


That's awesome ^


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Artwork: Carlyle (IL) Swinging Bridge*
> 
> I have this painting of the General Dean Suspension Bridge in Carlyle, IL. It is painted on a 4'x8' sheet of masonite, with a pencil sketch on the reverse (smooth) side and the finished work on the textured side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The painting is signed R. Czerwonka, and I know nothing of this gentlemen but it may be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAYMOND CZERWONKA of Hoffman IL
> 
> Date of birth: December 13, 1927
> Date of death: June 15, 2007
> 
> Just posting it here because Google finds nothing on any of this. Maybe someone will find it here now and tell me more about this great painting.


That's the power of the internet right there. There's wisdom in crowds.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*New Tool Arrival: A Fine Bronze Head*

Short and sweet.

A mini-swap with Jim "Boatman" of LJs, he sent me something first: a brass (no, make that bronze) mallet head he made. It's small, it's beautiful.










I have to come up with a suitable handle, but started with a simple dowel to get some idea of ideal length. What I didn't realize was balance may be optimized if I choose a handle style that can incorporate some kind of counterweight. Not a lot, but you know what I mean.

Anyway, I love it!










What will I send back? Well, that's a tough one that I've told Jim will take some time. The bar is set high based on this tool, so we'll see.

Thanks for looking, I'll update with a blog entry when I make the final (?) handle for this mallet!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Tool Arrival: A Fine Bronze Head*
> 
> Short and sweet.
> 
> A mini-swap with Jim "Boatman" of LJs, he sent me something first: a brass (no, make that bronze) mallet head he made. It's small, it's beautiful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to come up with a suitable handle, but started with a simple dowel to get some idea of ideal length. What I didn't realize was balance may be optimized if I choose a handle style that can incorporate some kind of counterweight. Not a lot, but you know what I mean.
> 
> Anyway, I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What will I send back? Well, that's a tough one that I've told Jim will take some time. The bar is set high based on this tool, so we'll see.
> 
> Thanks for looking, I'll update with a blog entry when I make the final (?) handle for this mallet!


Very nice Smitty. I'm looking forward to see the handle you decide on.


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Tool Arrival: A Fine Bronze Head*
> 
> Short and sweet.
> 
> A mini-swap with Jim "Boatman" of LJs, he sent me something first: a brass (no, make that bronze) mallet head he made. It's small, it's beautiful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to come up with a suitable handle, but started with a simple dowel to get some idea of ideal length. What I didn't realize was balance may be optimized if I choose a handle style that can incorporate some kind of counterweight. Not a lot, but you know what I mean.
> 
> Anyway, I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What will I send back? Well, that's a tough one that I've told Jim will take some time. The bar is set high based on this tool, so we'll see.
> 
> Thanks for looking, I'll update with a blog entry when I make the final (?) handle for this mallet!


What a wonderful brass head.
A wonderful hammer to be.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Tool Arrival: A Fine Bronze Head*
> 
> Short and sweet.
> 
> A mini-swap with Jim "Boatman" of LJs, he sent me something first: a brass (no, make that bronze) mallet head he made. It's small, it's beautiful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to come up with a suitable handle, but started with a simple dowel to get some idea of ideal length. What I didn't realize was balance may be optimized if I choose a handle style that can incorporate some kind of counterweight. Not a lot, but you know what I mean.
> 
> Anyway, I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What will I send back? Well, that's a tough one that I've told Jim will take some time. The bar is set high based on this tool, so we'll see.
> 
> Thanks for looking, I'll update with a blog entry when I make the final (?) handle for this mallet!


I'm going to make a handle like these for mine Smitty and I'm embarrised that I STILL HAVEN'T MADE IT YET. Like you, I might add a counterweight. Where does all the time go?










You can get some more inspiration here:

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/27991


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Tool Arrival: A Fine Bronze Head*
> 
> Short and sweet.
> 
> A mini-swap with Jim "Boatman" of LJs, he sent me something first: a brass (no, make that bronze) mallet head he made. It's small, it's beautiful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to come up with a suitable handle, but started with a simple dowel to get some idea of ideal length. What I didn't realize was balance may be optimized if I choose a handle style that can incorporate some kind of counterweight. Not a lot, but you know what I mean.
> 
> Anyway, I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What will I send back? Well, that's a tough one that I've told Jim will take some time. The bar is set high based on this tool, so we'll see.
> 
> Thanks for looking, I'll update with a blog entry when I make the final (?) handle for this mallet!


A beauty of a hammer. I'm sure you will come up with something really nice for the handle Smitty to honor this fine gift.


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Tool Arrival: A Fine Bronze Head*
> 
> Short and sweet.
> 
> A mini-swap with Jim "Boatman" of LJs, he sent me something first: a brass (no, make that bronze) mallet head he made. It's small, it's beautiful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to come up with a suitable handle, but started with a simple dowel to get some idea of ideal length. What I didn't realize was balance may be optimized if I choose a handle style that can incorporate some kind of counterweight. Not a lot, but you know what I mean.
> 
> Anyway, I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What will I send back? Well, that's a tough one that I've told Jim will take some time. The bar is set high based on this tool, so we'll see.
> 
> Thanks for looking, I'll update with a blog entry when I make the final (?) handle for this mallet!


By the way, the hammer head is made of bronze from an old propeller shaft. At least mine is, so I assume yours is the same Smitty.


----------



## Boatman53

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Tool Arrival: A Fine Bronze Head*
> 
> Short and sweet.
> 
> A mini-swap with Jim "Boatman" of LJs, he sent me something first: a brass (no, make that bronze) mallet head he made. It's small, it's beautiful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to come up with a suitable handle, but started with a simple dowel to get some idea of ideal length. What I didn't realize was balance may be optimized if I choose a handle style that can incorporate some kind of counterweight. Not a lot, but you know what I mean.
> 
> Anyway, I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What will I send back? Well, that's a tough one that I've told Jim will take some time. The bar is set high based on this tool, so we'll see.
> 
> Thanks for looking, I'll update with a blog entry when I make the final (?) handle for this mallet!


Yes Andy it is bronze. From the same shaft.but in running low. I asked around at the boat yards if the summer produced any more and the one guy wanted new bronze price for bent bronze product, that one was two inches in diameter though. That diameter suggests more signal cannon than hammer. 
Jim


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Tool Arrival: A Fine Bronze Head*
> 
> Short and sweet.
> 
> A mini-swap with Jim "Boatman" of LJs, he sent me something first: a brass (no, make that bronze) mallet head he made. It's small, it's beautiful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to come up with a suitable handle, but started with a simple dowel to get some idea of ideal length. What I didn't realize was balance may be optimized if I choose a handle style that can incorporate some kind of counterweight. Not a lot, but you know what I mean.
> 
> Anyway, I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What will I send back? Well, that's a tough one that I've told Jim will take some time. The bar is set high based on this tool, so we'll see.
> 
> Thanks for looking, I'll update with a blog entry when I make the final (?) handle for this mallet!


Ah. Thanks! Title and entry hereby corrected.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Tool Arrival: A Fine Bronze Head*
> 
> Short and sweet.
> 
> A mini-swap with Jim "Boatman" of LJs, he sent me something first: a brass (no, make that bronze) mallet head he made. It's small, it's beautiful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to come up with a suitable handle, but started with a simple dowel to get some idea of ideal length. What I didn't realize was balance may be optimized if I choose a handle style that can incorporate some kind of counterweight. Not a lot, but you know what I mean.
> 
> Anyway, I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What will I send back? Well, that's a tough one that I've told Jim will take some time. The bar is set high based on this tool, so we'll see.
> 
> Thanks for looking, I'll update with a blog entry when I make the final (?) handle for this mallet!


Sweet. I bought a piece off ebay. Not terribly expensive. If the hammer is going to be used for plane adjustment, I like the handle shorter. Finger tip control is best. If its for general purpose, then a longer handle allows more force.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Tool Arrival: A Fine Bronze Head*
> 
> Short and sweet.
> 
> A mini-swap with Jim "Boatman" of LJs, he sent me something first: a brass (no, make that bronze) mallet head he made. It's small, it's beautiful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to come up with a suitable handle, but started with a simple dowel to get some idea of ideal length. What I didn't realize was balance may be optimized if I choose a handle style that can incorporate some kind of counterweight. Not a lot, but you know what I mean.
> 
> Anyway, I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What will I send back? Well, that's a tough one that I've told Jim will take some time. The bar is set high based on this tool, so we'll see.
> 
> Thanks for looking, I'll update with a blog entry when I make the final (?) handle for this mallet!


Great little mallet! I have one from Jim also and I like it a lot!

Its pretty heavy so I went with the short stubby handle for more control rather than the "counter weight" idea.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Just Another Shop Cabinet DONE*

I left off calling this a Win, even though the upper half had no backside…










The goal was to match (more or less) this cabinet to the one alongside it. The backside of that cabinet has T&G beadboard along the bottom, and galvanized metal on the upper half. So I ordered some steel on Wednesday and it was ready for pickup this afternoon.

Got it to the shop, it was time to get busy.










First task was to lightly punch locations for screws.










Then drill holes.










The inside has to be sprayed using the same color paint.










I was lazy at this point and didn't empty the unit but instead opted to install the back using a high-tech 'Craftsman' clamp to hold it in place while 'screwing.'



















And when all was done, it was done.










First time I've ever built a cabinet with a composite back like this one. Kinda neat, actually. Total cost was the $19 paid for the galvanized steel; the rest was leftover paint and salvaged pine 1x and beadboard material. As always, thanks for looking!


----------



## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet DONE*
> 
> I left off calling this a Win, even though the upper half had no backside…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The goal was to match (more or less) this cabinet to the one alongside it. The backside of that cabinet has T&G beadboard along the bottom, and galvanized metal on the upper half. So I ordered some steel on Wednesday and it was ready for pickup this afternoon.
> 
> Got it to the shop, it was time to get busy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First task was to lightly punch locations for screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside has to be sprayed using the same color paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was lazy at this point and didn't empty the unit but instead opted to install the back using a high-tech 'Craftsman' clamp to hold it in place while 'screwing.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when all was done, it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time I've ever built a cabinet with a composite back like this one. Kinda neat, actually. Total cost was the $19 paid for the galvanized steel; the rest was leftover paint and salvaged pine 1x and beadboard material. As always, thanks for looking!


It is new/redone, but looks old/original…that may be you calling card. The shop is continuing to improve and evolve. Looks great.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet DONE*
> 
> I left off calling this a Win, even though the upper half had no backside…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The goal was to match (more or less) this cabinet to the one alongside it. The backside of that cabinet has T&G beadboard along the bottom, and galvanized metal on the upper half. So I ordered some steel on Wednesday and it was ready for pickup this afternoon.
> 
> Got it to the shop, it was time to get busy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First task was to lightly punch locations for screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside has to be sprayed using the same color paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was lazy at this point and didn't empty the unit but instead opted to install the back using a high-tech 'Craftsman' clamp to hold it in place while 'screwing.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when all was done, it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time I've ever built a cabinet with a composite back like this one. Kinda neat, actually. Total cost was the $19 paid for the galvanized steel; the rest was leftover paint and salvaged pine 1x and beadboard material. As always, thanks for looking!


When is the Smitty guide to workshop style comming out. I want to pre order my copy!


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet DONE*
> 
> I left off calling this a Win, even though the upper half had no backside…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The goal was to match (more or less) this cabinet to the one alongside it. The backside of that cabinet has T&G beadboard along the bottom, and galvanized metal on the upper half. So I ordered some steel on Wednesday and it was ready for pickup this afternoon.
> 
> Got it to the shop, it was time to get busy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First task was to lightly punch locations for screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside has to be sprayed using the same color paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was lazy at this point and didn't empty the unit but instead opted to install the back using a high-tech 'Craftsman' clamp to hold it in place while 'screwing.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when all was done, it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time I've ever built a cabinet with a composite back like this one. Kinda neat, actually. Total cost was the $19 paid for the galvanized steel; the rest was leftover paint and salvaged pine 1x and beadboard material. As always, thanks for looking!


Looks great Smitty- as always. The other cabinet needs crown moulding as you have mentioned previously.


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet DONE*
> 
> I left off calling this a Win, even though the upper half had no backside…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The goal was to match (more or less) this cabinet to the one alongside it. The backside of that cabinet has T&G beadboard along the bottom, and galvanized metal on the upper half. So I ordered some steel on Wednesday and it was ready for pickup this afternoon.
> 
> Got it to the shop, it was time to get busy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First task was to lightly punch locations for screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside has to be sprayed using the same color paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was lazy at this point and didn't empty the unit but instead opted to install the back using a high-tech 'Craftsman' clamp to hold it in place while 'screwing.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when all was done, it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time I've ever built a cabinet with a composite back like this one. Kinda neat, actually. Total cost was the $19 paid for the galvanized steel; the rest was leftover paint and salvaged pine 1x and beadboard material. As always, thanks for looking!


It came out very well Smitty and I like your green color choice too.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet DONE*
> 
> I left off calling this a Win, even though the upper half had no backside…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The goal was to match (more or less) this cabinet to the one alongside it. The backside of that cabinet has T&G beadboard along the bottom, and galvanized metal on the upper half. So I ordered some steel on Wednesday and it was ready for pickup this afternoon.
> 
> Got it to the shop, it was time to get busy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First task was to lightly punch locations for screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside has to be sprayed using the same color paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was lazy at this point and didn't empty the unit but instead opted to install the back using a high-tech 'Craftsman' clamp to hold it in place while 'screwing.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when all was done, it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time I've ever built a cabinet with a composite back like this one. Kinda neat, actually. Total cost was the $19 paid for the galvanized steel; the rest was leftover paint and salvaged pine 1x and beadboard material. As always, thanks for looking!


Glad y'all like the cabinet. I had a couple on hand that would have been just fine sitting on that end of the assy bench (including the one that was there previously) but Maur got it right… My tattered copy of the "The Workshop Style Guide" said cabinets should match. So, that's where we are… lol


----------



## racerglen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet DONE*
> 
> I left off calling this a Win, even though the upper half had no backside…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The goal was to match (more or less) this cabinet to the one alongside it. The backside of that cabinet has T&G beadboard along the bottom, and galvanized metal on the upper half. So I ordered some steel on Wednesday and it was ready for pickup this afternoon.
> 
> Got it to the shop, it was time to get busy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First task was to lightly punch locations for screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside has to be sprayed using the same color paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was lazy at this point and didn't empty the unit but instead opted to install the back using a high-tech 'Craftsman' clamp to hold it in place while 'screwing.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when all was done, it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time I've ever built a cabinet with a composite back like this one. Kinda neat, actually. Total cost was the $19 paid for the galvanized steel; the rest was leftover paint and salvaged pine 1x and beadboard material. As always, thanks for looking!


Beauty, and just think you were only screwing around !


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet DONE*
> 
> I left off calling this a Win, even though the upper half had no backside…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The goal was to match (more or less) this cabinet to the one alongside it. The backside of that cabinet has T&G beadboard along the bottom, and galvanized metal on the upper half. So I ordered some steel on Wednesday and it was ready for pickup this afternoon.
> 
> Got it to the shop, it was time to get busy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First task was to lightly punch locations for screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside has to be sprayed using the same color paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was lazy at this point and didn't empty the unit but instead opted to install the back using a high-tech 'Craftsman' clamp to hold it in place while 'screwing.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when all was done, it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time I've ever built a cabinet with a composite back like this one. Kinda neat, actually. Total cost was the $19 paid for the galvanized steel; the rest was leftover paint and salvaged pine 1x and beadboard material. As always, thanks for looking!


Looking sharp Smitty. I very much like the composite back.

+1 to Shane's sentiment. You have an amazing knack of blending the new into the vintage. Great style And skill.

Thanks Smitty.


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet DONE*
> 
> I left off calling this a Win, even though the upper half had no backside…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The goal was to match (more or less) this cabinet to the one alongside it. The backside of that cabinet has T&G beadboard along the bottom, and galvanized metal on the upper half. So I ordered some steel on Wednesday and it was ready for pickup this afternoon.
> 
> Got it to the shop, it was time to get busy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First task was to lightly punch locations for screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside has to be sprayed using the same color paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was lazy at this point and didn't empty the unit but instead opted to install the back using a high-tech 'Craftsman' clamp to hold it in place while 'screwing.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when all was done, it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time I've ever built a cabinet with a composite back like this one. Kinda neat, actually. Total cost was the $19 paid for the galvanized steel; the rest was leftover paint and salvaged pine 1x and beadboard material. As always, thanks for looking!


Very nice, Smitty. You certainly DO have the knack for blending old and new together in a pleasing manner!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet DONE*
> 
> I left off calling this a Win, even though the upper half had no backside…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The goal was to match (more or less) this cabinet to the one alongside it. The backside of that cabinet has T&G beadboard along the bottom, and galvanized metal on the upper half. So I ordered some steel on Wednesday and it was ready for pickup this afternoon.
> 
> Got it to the shop, it was time to get busy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First task was to lightly punch locations for screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside has to be sprayed using the same color paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was lazy at this point and didn't empty the unit but instead opted to install the back using a high-tech 'Craftsman' clamp to hold it in place while 'screwing.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when all was done, it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time I've ever built a cabinet with a composite back like this one. Kinda neat, actually. Total cost was the $19 paid for the galvanized steel; the rest was leftover paint and salvaged pine 1x and beadboard material. As always, thanks for looking!


Smity, is that an OSHA approved green? Safety first and i quote "Craftsman' clamp to hold it in place while 'screwing.'" ! Oh my, never thought about doing that…. ;0)>


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet DONE*
> 
> I left off calling this a Win, even though the upper half had no backside…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The goal was to match (more or less) this cabinet to the one alongside it. The backside of that cabinet has T&G beadboard along the bottom, and galvanized metal on the upper half. So I ordered some steel on Wednesday and it was ready for pickup this afternoon.
> 
> Got it to the shop, it was time to get busy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First task was to lightly punch locations for screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside has to be sprayed using the same color paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was lazy at this point and didn't empty the unit but instead opted to install the back using a high-tech 'Craftsman' clamp to hold it in place while 'screwing.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when all was done, it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time I've ever built a cabinet with a composite back like this one. Kinda neat, actually. Total cost was the $19 paid for the galvanized steel; the rest was leftover paint and salvaged pine 1x and beadboard material. As always, thanks for looking!


nice work Smitty.


----------



## TerryDowning

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Just Another Shop Cabinet DONE*
> 
> I left off calling this a Win, even though the upper half had no backside…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The goal was to match (more or less) this cabinet to the one alongside it. The backside of that cabinet has T&G beadboard along the bottom, and galvanized metal on the upper half. So I ordered some steel on Wednesday and it was ready for pickup this afternoon.
> 
> Got it to the shop, it was time to get busy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First task was to lightly punch locations for screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside has to be sprayed using the same color paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was lazy at this point and didn't empty the unit but instead opted to install the back using a high-tech 'Craftsman' clamp to hold it in place while 'screwing.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when all was done, it was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time I've ever built a cabinet with a composite back like this one. Kinda neat, actually. Total cost was the $19 paid for the galvanized steel; the rest was leftover paint and salvaged pine 1x and beadboard material. As always, thanks for looking!


Nicely Done Smitty!!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*

Okay.

So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.










Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…

I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.










Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.










I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.










How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.










What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


Great wood to work with Smitty. Mahogany is my favorite wood to work with. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with it.


----------



## racerglen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


And Smitty scores again !


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


nice acquisition Smitty. That will be a special project for sure.


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


I mean what better than finding reclaimed walnut? Ohh that's right, reclaimed mahogany. Jackpot!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


Smitty, think maybe stairs were shop built rather than on site?


----------



## SPalm

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


Nice score and interesting workmanship.
Not sure what to do with it, but that is cool stuff.

Steve


----------



## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


Smitty,

...just a couple pseudoclassic thoughts…

...if I had a hammer, I'd hammer in the morning…

If I had that stack of mahogany, I'd build a stairway for… Led Zeppelin

...or maybe a platform for… Jimi Hendrix, up in the Purple haze. 
Excuse me, while I kiss the sky… and go to the kitchen for another cup of 30 weight. ...can't seem to get focused this morning…

Have a Great day, I'm sure something will come to you.

Best Regards. - Grandpa Len.

Work Safely and have Fun.


----------



## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


Ahh, a sneak peak photo of the great stash.

I don't know Smitty, if the picture with board cleaned up and a circular hole cut in it is the stock in question, kinda looks like walnut to me…lol


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


Nice score, Smitty! Love the stair detail…they sure don't build 'em like they used to! 

Our home was built in 1867, right after the civil war. Tons of small details like that in all the joinery! Too bad it's mostly covered with 100 years of paint.

That Mahogany was lucky it found YOU!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


It could not have found a better home.

I love seeing craftsmanship like that. Thanks Smitty.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


You suck Smitty! Nice score. The old school pocket holes are really cool.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


Oh and I would make a Paul Sellers style tool chest with some of that wood.


----------



## dbray45

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


I would be thinkin dresser and night tables.

Good score Smitty


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


Makes me wish for a real resaw capability with this stuff. A frame and panel build approach to 'whatever' comes of this material would make it stretch further. A future bridge to cross, I suppose.

Len, I hope the additional coffee has you back on earth. Although getting lost in vintage rock lyrics isn't a bad place to be either.  Some friends and I mess around with cover recordings and we've set our sites on a Magical Mystery Tour session early next year. Good times, making that music, but the pipes don't easily reach the notes that were so easily attained by the Boys from Liverpool way back when.

Several of these pieces would make a most excellent replacement top for a tavern table refurb project that's been on the back burner for ages. Actually, mahogany on that piece would totally rock; there are turned legs mixed with 'finials' of cast iron holding everything together. A very unique piece with drink holders and built-in, swivel ash trays. Gotta check dimensions…

Thanks everyone for the comments. Oh, and I asked my son if he remembers the winning bid for the woodpile that day. He thinks it was $5. So Maur, I gladly accept that "You Suck" praise. lol


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


When will the tavern table make an appearance? Cast iron finials, swivel ashtrays… cool stuff.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another "It's Not Walnut" Moment*
> 
> Okay.
> 
> So I did a table refurb that went into it's second or third week before I realized it wasn't walnut but mahogany. Well, early last summer my son bought a pile of scrap wood that included these old stair treads and risers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting around to sorting some of the piles of wood moved and arranged for the shop floor project, and inspecting / stacking this material came to the forefront. Anyway…
> 
> I sorted the pieces by dividing risers from treads, and that's when I noticed the build of the stairs was different than any I've seen before. All the risers had triangular notches in them, and each tread had a kind of trim piece still attached to their undersides. Stairs typically have a bead / trim detail at the juncture of tread and riser, but it's not normally one that's embedded 1/2" into the underside of the tread via dado.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the risers were attached to the treads via a couple of 'pocket screws' set into hand-chisel'd pockets. Very cool to consider the work put into this staircase. And not least. how sharp the chisel had to be the workman used to make these very clean cross-grain cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the stuff was walnut. But then realized it was much heavier, more dense, than walnut. Then it hit me: it's mahogany, and I had been tricked a second time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much material? I counted 23 pieces at least 7" wide, 39" long and each a full 7/8" thick. Of that number, nine are treads nearly 10" wide. Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do with this stuff? Don't know, but it's getting properly stickered and stacked this week for a future project or two. Thanks for looking!


Good reminder… Working on another frame for a new bundle of Stanley prints, then the table I think. New blog series when it happens.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Shop Art!*

Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.

Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.

Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…



















glued together all the half lap joints…










then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…

After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!

I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.










Hung and done!



















As always, thanks for looking!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


I like it Smitty.


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Looks nice, Smitty! I hope to do something similar this year…


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Suppa' nice!

Chapter 5 in the Workshop Guide to Style?


----------



## DonBroussard

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Very nice and very well done, Smitty. I have a place on my shop wall for a piece like that. Where'd you find those vintage posters?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Ebay was the place. These larger ones seem to be less collectible than the cards, and that's fine with me. They don't come up often. I spent as much on glass as charts, lol.


----------



## 489tad

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Looks nice Smitty. They fit your shop well.


----------



## Holbs

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


i want those posters!


----------



## whitebeast88

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


very nice,great idea.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Smittty, the Martha Stewart of the woodshop world! Looks perfect


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Any good bits of information in those posters?

Happy New Year


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Happy new years brothas'


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Happy New Year, All!!!

I'll re-look to see if there's any unique info on them.


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Great addition to your shop Smitty!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Nice ambiance;-)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


I'd love to have color graphics, Red, but somebody in Iowa cornered the market on those… heh

Don't know how many in this series were printed, but there are a few in the series I'm missing. No hurry, but I'd like to have one more block of four.


----------



## planepassion

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Very cool Smitty. What a great way to start the new year.


----------



## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Smitty,

Your shop is starting to get the 'Period' look of one I remember seeing in the Henry Ford Museum in Detroit Michigan. 
I like it, alot.

Happy New Year.
Best Regards. - Len

Work Safely and have Fun.


----------



## helluvawreck

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


It's really a nice addition to your shop.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## Woodwrecker

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Pretty darn cool use of that wall space !
They look great and your frames came out nice !


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Man, I wish I had wall space!!


----------



## iceman50

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


I love it. So neat and really fits the shop


----------



## CFrye

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Looks great Smitty!


----------



## mnpete

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Very nice! I like it a lot.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Oh I really like that Smitty. You and BYo with the eye for the aesthetic…


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


T - I would have lined up the attaching screw heads. Just sayin'.....


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Take a closer look - they're clocked, Yo.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Perfectly played Smitty.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Any guess as to what wood this is? Looks like oak, but it's more brown. No real scent, open grained, lightweight.










Could it be chestnut?


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Don't know. never seen chestnut with the dark rays like that though.


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Lovely, really brings life.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Can't really help you either Smitty. Your piece certainly is open pored. I heard references to brown oak but I am not certain what brown oak really is.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Smitty, this may help, http://lumberjocks.com/topics/56532


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


I learned something there Don. ~ tip of the hat~


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art!*
> 
> Not a huge or complex project, but one that makes the shop a nicer place.
> 
> Picked up eight Stanley shop charts a while back. Like, quite a while back. June of this year, specifically.
> 
> Well, with the shop floor project done and the charts managing to stay together that whole time, a more permanent solution had to be found vs. having them on a shelf gathering dust. So I slapped together some very rough frames…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glued together all the half lap joints…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then reached for a vile beast… the 'lectric routah. It was used to dirty the shop, make a most holy racket and, as a side benefit, cut the rabbets for glass. Sorry, no pics of that…
> 
> After cleaning the shop, I chiseled the corners and measured the openings for glass. A day later, the local lumber yard had eight pieces of glass cut just for me!
> 
> I laid the glass in the openings, added a cardboard filler to take up the rest of the cavity space, then added foam backer board via staples to the whole backs of each frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hung and done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


It is the lightest and softest oak I've ever seen…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*A Slight Improvement... RAS Dust Collection*

A good thing to do in 2014 involved capturing the sawdust thrown from my DeWalt RAS. This solution is stolen straight from "hjt" here on LJs. The key for me was using the Irwin expansion bit to get the right-sized hole in the backboard:










Scrap pine on three sides, cut to work behind the saw's rear fence. Also low profile, to ride under the motor.










Connected to a very small shop vac.










A little bit of silicon caulk sealed the inside of the box and a small bead was laid down between the box and the saw top. Total cost was $0, and this 'catches' the vast majority of the wood chips that fly straight back from cross cuts. Big improvement!

As always, thanks for looking.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Slight Improvement... RAS Dust Collection*
> 
> A good thing to do in 2014 involved capturing the sawdust thrown from my DeWalt RAS. This solution is stolen straight from "hjt" here on LJs. The key for me was using the Irwin expansion bit to get the right-sized hole in the backboard:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scrap pine on three sides, cut to work behind the saw's rear fence. Also low profile, to ride under the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Connected to a very small shop vac.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little bit of silicon caulk sealed the inside of the box and a small bead was laid down between the box and the saw top. Total cost was $0, and this 'catches' the vast majority of the wood chips that fly straight back from cross cuts. Big improvement!
> 
> As always, thanks for looking.


Nice! I need something that will work as well for my chop saw. I'm off to google it.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Slight Improvement... RAS Dust Collection*
> 
> A good thing to do in 2014 involved capturing the sawdust thrown from my DeWalt RAS. This solution is stolen straight from "hjt" here on LJs. The key for me was using the Irwin expansion bit to get the right-sized hole in the backboard:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scrap pine on three sides, cut to work behind the saw's rear fence. Also low profile, to ride under the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Connected to a very small shop vac.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little bit of silicon caulk sealed the inside of the box and a small bead was laid down between the box and the saw top. Total cost was $0, and this 'catches' the vast majority of the wood chips that fly straight back from cross cuts. Big improvement!
> 
> As always, thanks for looking.


Very nice.

Your RAS is color coordinated with your shop. To the last detail, huh?


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Slight Improvement... RAS Dust Collection*
> 
> A good thing to do in 2014 involved capturing the sawdust thrown from my DeWalt RAS. This solution is stolen straight from "hjt" here on LJs. The key for me was using the Irwin expansion bit to get the right-sized hole in the backboard:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scrap pine on three sides, cut to work behind the saw's rear fence. Also low profile, to ride under the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Connected to a very small shop vac.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little bit of silicon caulk sealed the inside of the box and a small bead was laid down between the box and the saw top. Total cost was $0, and this 'catches' the vast majority of the wood chips that fly straight back from cross cuts. Big improvement!
> 
> As always, thanks for looking.


That's an old Irwin Smitty. Mine is a bit more recent, but works like a charm. Nice upgrade to the RAS.


----------



## racerglen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Slight Improvement... RAS Dust Collection*
> 
> A good thing to do in 2014 involved capturing the sawdust thrown from my DeWalt RAS. This solution is stolen straight from "hjt" here on LJs. The key for me was using the Irwin expansion bit to get the right-sized hole in the backboard:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scrap pine on three sides, cut to work behind the saw's rear fence. Also low profile, to ride under the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Connected to a very small shop vac.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little bit of silicon caulk sealed the inside of the box and a small bead was laid down between the box and the saw top. Total cost was $0, and this 'catches' the vast majority of the wood chips that fly straight back from cross cuts. Big improvement!
> 
> As always, thanks for looking.


Smitty, I've gotten to the point where I don't even look to see what you're posting, I just see you're avitar and CLICK..(don't have a RAS…) Good thinking.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Slight Improvement... RAS Dust Collection*
> 
> A good thing to do in 2014 involved capturing the sawdust thrown from my DeWalt RAS. This solution is stolen straight from "hjt" here on LJs. The key for me was using the Irwin expansion bit to get the right-sized hole in the backboard:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scrap pine on three sides, cut to work behind the saw's rear fence. Also low profile, to ride under the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Connected to a very small shop vac.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little bit of silicon caulk sealed the inside of the box and a small bead was laid down between the box and the saw top. Total cost was $0, and this 'catches' the vast majority of the wood chips that fly straight back from cross cuts. Big improvement!
> 
> As always, thanks for looking.


I'm not under any dilusions; on the DC journey this likely doesn't even count as a baby step, but it's the first attempt at it in my family's history and I'm at least a 4th-Generation wood butcher. The only way from here is UP, right? lol


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Slight Improvement... RAS Dust Collection*
> 
> A good thing to do in 2014 involved capturing the sawdust thrown from my DeWalt RAS. This solution is stolen straight from "hjt" here on LJs. The key for me was using the Irwin expansion bit to get the right-sized hole in the backboard:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scrap pine on three sides, cut to work behind the saw's rear fence. Also low profile, to ride under the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Connected to a very small shop vac.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little bit of silicon caulk sealed the inside of the box and a small bead was laid down between the box and the saw top. Total cost was $0, and this 'catches' the vast majority of the wood chips that fly straight back from cross cuts. Big improvement!
> 
> As always, thanks for looking.


Good solution Smitty and the price is unbeatable. I just use a plywood hood on my slm saw, but vacuuming it has to be even better. I do vacuum mine (occasionally).


----------



## Slyy

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Slight Improvement... RAS Dust Collection*
> 
> A good thing to do in 2014 involved capturing the sawdust thrown from my DeWalt RAS. This solution is stolen straight from "hjt" here on LJs. The key for me was using the Irwin expansion bit to get the right-sized hole in the backboard:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scrap pine on three sides, cut to work behind the saw's rear fence. Also low profile, to ride under the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Connected to a very small shop vac.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little bit of silicon caulk sealed the inside of the box and a small bead was laid down between the box and the saw top. Total cost was $0, and this 'catches' the vast majority of the wood chips that fly straight back from cross cuts. Big improvement!
> 
> As always, thanks for looking.


Dang Smitty, like the work there on catching the dust off that saw! Appreciate all the write ups you e done on the shop blog here, you've got a lot of ideas to throw out there, especially the "I have this, this and this, and I need a solution for that, not make something" mentality ones! On a day when it's an absolutely unusual 6 Fahrenheit in my garage, it's been a nice read through on the shop blog. Keep up the good work!


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Slight Improvement... RAS Dust Collection*
> 
> A good thing to do in 2014 involved capturing the sawdust thrown from my DeWalt RAS. This solution is stolen straight from "hjt" here on LJs. The key for me was using the Irwin expansion bit to get the right-sized hole in the backboard:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scrap pine on three sides, cut to work behind the saw's rear fence. Also low profile, to ride under the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Connected to a very small shop vac.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little bit of silicon caulk sealed the inside of the box and a small bead was laid down between the box and the saw top. Total cost was $0, and this 'catches' the vast majority of the wood chips that fly straight back from cross cuts. Big improvement!
> 
> As always, thanks for looking.


Keep that new shop clean my friend.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Shop Art ll*

Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.










Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!





































Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.



















And then there were three sets of four…










As always, thanks for looking!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Nice addition. I prefer the staggered positioning. Looks great Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
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> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


I wondered about the staggered thing. Thanks Tony!


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## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
> 
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> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Very cool art, and nicely framed. 
+2 to the staggered positioning!


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
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> 
> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
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> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


I liked it. I mean, I really liked it, but then I realized this wasn't really part of it,










Or was it?


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## Slyy

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Great shop pics Smitty, much better (and perhaps more wife friendly) than a bunch of half nekid ladies! So e sexy posters and frames!


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## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Smiity, do I see a Van Goh in there?


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## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Museum aged Art for the museum grade Tool cabinets you've been resurecting.

Starting to look like the *Smittsonian.* ...just sayin', lookin' good. ;-)

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len.


----------



## 7Footer

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Those are friggin' boss Smitty!


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## Grumpymike

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Those are great posters! where in the world did you find them?
I like your "frames" they fit in with the "Shop Motif" very well.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Mike, they pop up on the 'bay at times in addition to the smaller cardstock versions. These are approx. 14×19.


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## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Love it Smitty.
That is cool!


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## henryj383

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
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> 
> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


I know my wife would love to have a set of these for my shop ! The are just great


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
> 
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> 
> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Some words of wisdom from Stanley, Copyright 1928:


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## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Looks wonderful.
What wonderful images to have hanging there.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Not as wonderful as a Mads original would be, of course, by they'll do just fine.


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## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Real nice Smitty!


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## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shop Art ll*
> 
> Had eight pictures and posted them to the shop wall a few weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought that was the end of it, then found four more needing a home. So another frame to build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Content of these is pretty cool stuff, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then there were three sets of four…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Big smile thank you.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*New Life for an Old Foreplane*

My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.










The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.










Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.










Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.











__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content










Back to work, ready for another century!



















Thanks for looking!


----------



## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to work, ready for another century!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


... pretty smooth Smitty. Great Save.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to work, ready for another century!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


How closed is the mouth after the insert? Which begs the question: what is the proposed thickness of shaving and function? Just curious how you decided on the size of the insert.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to work, ready for another century!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Nice save Smutty. Do you suppose the indent was created purposely or worn in over time from use?


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## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to work, ready for another century!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Another great save, Smitty!
I'll be happy to triple your investment anytime!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
> 
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> Thanks for looking!


Scotty, I suppose there is a science to what I was supposed to do but it was much more organic (re: random) than all that. Two pictures to tell the story.

Here's a side-by-side with my other woody, a jack plane that did the shaping on my bench way back when because it was my only plane. The picture shows the front wall of the mouth of each plane post-mod… The Sandusky shows that wall being on a single plane; if I would have added the insert to maintain a single plane on the Butcher, the mouth would have been over 1/2" open. That would have been too much.










I did close it up and added a back-bevel of sorts before gluing in the new piece. Here's the result, again side-by-side with the Sandusky jack (it on the left, Butcher on the right):










It could have been tightened up a bit more, I suppose, but it is a fore and not a smoother.

I think the indent was over time. The opposite-top-corner is also worn where the left hand would cover the front of the plane in a traditional hold. Finally, the body of the plane is actually thinner from wear at the nose end than at the plane's tail.


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## planepassion

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
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> 
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> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
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> Thanks for looking!


Smitty, I love the Butcher logo. It has an 18th century look to it. And it seems to be good iron too.

$1 for all that fun. If movies delivered that much entertainment that cheaply I'd….well no. I'd still prefer woodworking


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## Henndoe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
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> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
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> Thanks for looking!


Mmmmmm number 9


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## CFrye

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
> 
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> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
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> Thanks for looking!


Looking good Smitty! Thanks for sharing.


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## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
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> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
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> Thanks for looking!


Thanks for the explanation.


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## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
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> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
> 
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> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
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> Thanks for looking!


Smitty, thanks for sharing the photos of the mouth repair. Got a few of those in line here. I've also noticed many of my Sargent trannies have thinner bases near the toe end…

Brad, I think exactly as you about entertainment…my wife is a DVD junkie…buys 'em by the handful. But, I would rather spend $15 on a vintage tool that needs some cleaning. Heck, an all day cleaning is fine by me! More fun for the buck, plus a user tool when you're done.


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## ToddJB

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
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> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
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> Thanks for looking!


Smitty, what sage rearing advise do you have to bestow on those of us with young'ins that will result in them bringing us sweet tools in their adulthood?


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## ToddJB

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
> 
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> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
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> 
> Thanks for looking!


Double post


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
> 
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> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
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> Thanks for looking!


Todd, all I can suggest is nurture their (constructive) hobbies and they'll value yours in turn. He knows enough to recognize value at auctions. Folks typically don't know what these things are, and this particular son likes going to auctions. Since he's there, might as well find things to 'track' because it's a lot of standing around otherwise.


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
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> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
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> Thanks for looking!


Well done Dr. Smitty.


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## ToddJB

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
> 
> 
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> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
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> Thanks for looking!


(constructive)

My mind is reeling with all of the non-constructive ones that will pop over the next 20 years. Ha.


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## reedwood

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
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> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
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> Thanks for looking!


Hey Smitty, nice photos, cool project.
I collect them but fall short from fully understanding what makes a repair respect it's story. especially when they're this bad. Every plane has one and is treated differently from one owner to the next….I'm rambling.

My question is, considering this plane is really aged and in need of this repair, did you consider making the patch go all the way to the front to repair the rest of the crack? did you not want it to show in front? is it not considered a "standard" repair or just not necessary? probably just keeping it simple, no doubt.

what about the rest of the plane and the handles? would it not be better to preserve it by refinishing it when it's this far gone? Do you ever completely refurbish wood planes?.... makes for some cool pics anyway.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
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> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
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Mark, thanks for the comments. Not rambling, but valid observations. I'll tell you where I am with regards to your questions.

- Wish I would have taken a picture before hand, but the patch applied went into a square cut-out that was already in the sole of the plane when I got it on Saturday. I don't know if it had been patched and that piece fell out or not, but there was not trace of glue in the cut. So what I did fit that cut-out, nothing more.

- Regarding the overall condition of the tool and additional refurb, I'm not planning anything more and here's why: I don't have confidence that my work will be right or wrong for this plane. The cracks are stable, and the overall condition of the plane really isn't bad. It's dry and could use moisture, but even that can wait until the tool has had awhile to acclimate to my shop space. Then maybe some BLO (which many swear by, but others say is only for starting fires), allowed to soak in, would be best to swell and seal.

- Lots of wisdom out there for 'properly' cleaning tools, many of which I don't subscribe to. Why? Because I'm not in a hurry to do something wrong to a tool. I like them old, I like them to be useable. They have stories in their current state, and I don't want to take the discovery away from the next guy that'll have the plane. And we're talking this plane right now. Saws I've refurbed, others not. Same with some planes. Etc. etc.

I'm not a woody user, so this one will be on static display for awhile before I decide what to do with it next (if anything). In the meantime, the planned repair has been completed, the iron is sharp and the tool is ready for duty. And this weekend, that was enough.

Hope this made sense.


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## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
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> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
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> Thanks for looking!


Great post, I love the old wooden planes. Amazing how salvageable they are.


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## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
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> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
> 
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> Thanks for looking!


Hmm, you speak of the "patch". Now im far from an expert on wodden planes but I have handled one other wood plane in the past that came with a Butcher Iron. It also had the same "patch" like yours Smitty. I wonder if this was used to open and close the mouth? Unfortunately the guy who got it don't frequent here much anymore.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
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> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
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> Back to work, ready for another century!
> 
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> Thanks for looking!


I'm hardly an expert either, but I know that the mouth opens as the sole is worn away. Patching in a new piece reverses that trend somewhat. The mouth may have been damaged too, who knows. What I've not seen is an adjustable mouth on a woodie. Maybe Yoda has, in all his travels?


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
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> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
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> 
> Back to work, ready for another century!
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Ulmia and ECE are two I know of that makes a woody with an adjustable mouth.










And of course, I had to make one!


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to work, ready for another century!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Save every one that you get Smitty
A wonderful save and great read.
Thanks.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to work, ready for another century!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


^ Thanks "Tool Expert" Dave ! 

Don, that is why you are The Yoda. Thanks for filling in that gap (again).


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## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New Life for an Old Foreplane*
> 
> My son picked up this woody yesterday at auction (back right in the pic), in a box of other stuff, for $1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron is a Butcher, the sole was 'patch-ready.' Someone had excavated for a new insert ahead of the mouth but it was either gone or not finished. A donor plane cut up long ago gave me the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it was time to 'joint the jointer,' if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something about the left side of this plane that's amazing. An indent where my thumb goes… Lots of use in this tool's past, I believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to work, ready for another century!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Nice work on this venerable plane Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Quick but Necessary Repair*

Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this










But one was this instead










Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.




























Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…










A glue-up ensued










Shaped it, looked great…










And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!










As always, thanks for looking!


----------



## NinjaAssassin

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Smitty, you have one of the coolest shops I've seen and it's for this reason. You put the neatest things in there. Nice find and repair job.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Another Smithy save.


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## Slyy

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Sweet repair Smitty. What a nifty little duet chair as well. Know if it has anything interesting provenance wise?


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Pretty close to a scarf joint Smitty. Another outstanding save. As for provenance, a whole lotta butts I would guess!


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Nice Smit. No metal fasteners, just glue?


----------



## Slyy

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


No lie Kevin, it probably likes big butts…......


----------



## JoeinGa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Looks like a VERY OLD set of theater chairs perhaps? Nice fix-up!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


One 1 1/4" screw went into the joint. With the head of it under that horizontal cross member. Patched leg is the front right one in the last pic above.


----------



## Woodwrecker

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


That would be a cool project to build from scratch.
(Nice repair job)


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Just went back and noticed no cup-holders! Not very hospitable. If I'm going to show up I would hope to at least see cup-holders holding a frosty adult beverage. Smitty I'd do it for you.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Shoulda made it a scarf joint. Shoulda added a dowel, perhaps. Oh well. If it breaks / fails, I'll do it different.


----------



## gfadvm

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Very cool seat design and another great repair!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Wasn't saying you should have on the scarf joint. It just reminded me of one I saw today at a sugar house.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Oh, I know Kevin. But it is a good idea. I went more or less square so I'd be able to cut it cleanly and tighten the seams as much as possible. But some bevel to each butt end would have been more gooder, I think.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Sometimes the scarf joints on 100+ year old timber frames just amaze me. The current timber framers around here use them all the time to splice in repair or replacement timbers. You just can't get the real long timbers any more.


----------



## ToddJB

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Top notch repair Smitty. Good job.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Thanks, all, for the comments!

Buying things that need work used to be more common than now. "I don't need another project," seems to be the phrase of the day. This folding chair was an exception, of course. The fix was simple enough to envision, and the fact that it was a broken piece no doubt kept a number of bidders at bay. The price wasn't bad, less than what I was prepared to pay, so now that it's repaired we have a win-win.

Sat on it last night, right over the repaired leg, and lived to tell the tale. 

No plans to apply a finish at this point. Wood may have had a paint or glaze on it, but I'm not sure. The surface shows 'scratches' easily, just by wiping with a rag, so something oxidized. Definitely not sanding the thing down to fresh wood, that'd be crazy. So for now it'll get used as-is.

Any other suggestions? I have the oil/wax mixture that's done incredibly well for me in the past. Milk paint would make everyone cringe, but the thought has crossed my mind.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Always making the approach and solution seem so matter of fact. Wonderful stuff Smitty.

Thank you.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


I wouldn't paint it but that is probably no surprise. I dont think it really matters what finish you choose jsut give the wood a drink of something. It seems so parched.

Oil/wax, Danish oil, BLO, wipe on poly if going outside. What ev…....

I am positive it will look great and I will wish it were mine.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Following Yo's advice…










May be a good thing…










In this case!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Sauciness.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


More inviting?


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Ah, you put in the cup holder/beer cozy. Most assuredly comfy!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


That's a great piece of furniture.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


BTW, watcha smoking there. Looks Cubano!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


It does?? Hmmmm…. I'll have to check that out.


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


That looks killer Smitty. I could park my a$$ in that chair for a bit, no doubt about it.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


I'll apply some oil/wax to the legs and substructure tonight, and post a pic of the hidden screw w/ fix when I take off the lower cross piece. Final step will be to apply those little fuzzy circle thingys to the bottom of each leg so the piece doesn't gouge the shop floor.

Yeah, I'm particular with that (so far).

You're welcome any time to stop by and set a spell!


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


That is a very nicely designed article and well worth saving. Great work Smitty.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick but Necessary Repair*
> 
> Picked up a fun, folding-duet-chair thingy yesterday at auction that had a bum leg. Supposed to look like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one was this instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some cuts with the gent's dovetail saw (in creative clamping get-up) squared things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matched up cuts to a piece of mahogany…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A glue-up ensued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped it, looked great…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we now have functional, interesting shop seating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks for looking!


Another amazing restoration Smitty, Looks amazing after applying the finish.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Quick Look: Stanley S4*

Picked up a Stanley SW #S4 recently, thought I'd show some detail in a post.

A faint, stamped "No S4" in front of the knob.










Here's how it looks apart:




























Worked up the iron, caught an image showing the burr…










Then together.










Just some shots to show a plane in detail that's not all that common. Thanks for looking!


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick Look: Stanley S4*
> 
> Picked up a Stanley SW #S4 recently, thought I'd show some detail in a post.
> 
> A faint, stamped "No S4" in front of the knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how it looks apart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked up the iron, caught an image showing the burr…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some shots to show a plane in detail that's not all that common. Thanks for looking!


Must be great to be able to buy these old planes Smitty. This one looks pretty old. We don't have any old planes for sale here in Norway, at least none that I've ever been able to find. I bought some Lie Nielsen Chinese knock offs. They are wonderful planes, but very heavy, so a bit more tiring to use at my age. I still like using my Stanley jack plane (I bought it new about 35 years ago) and also my Stanley/Bailey #4which is about 4 years old. I use them mainly on softer woods as I have my other planes adjusted for hard woods.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick Look: Stanley S4*
> 
> Picked up a Stanley SW #S4 recently, thought I'd show some detail in a post.
> 
> A faint, stamped "No S4" in front of the knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how it looks apart:
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Worked up the iron, caught an image showing the burr…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some shots to show a plane in detail that's not all that common. Thanks for looking!


I'll be interested to hear your thoughts over time how you think the S series compares with the Baileys. I've got a couple and they seem to work as well but I don't really use mine. I know you'll use yours.


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## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick Look: Stanley S4*
> 
> Picked up a Stanley SW #S4 recently, thought I'd show some detail in a post.
> 
> A faint, stamped "No S4" in front of the knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how it looks apart:
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Worked up the iron, caught an image showing the burr…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some shots to show a plane in detail that's not all that common. Thanks for looking!


Thanks for sharing Smit. Where did you get it? I am sure that S4 can shine up pretty.

Unrelated story. I just admitted a sweet little lady Thursday with a broken wrist and pelvis. Her 103 birthday is today. The first thing that I thought when I pondered her age was: she was born when Stanley just started making type 11's. Thats how I relate to her age.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick Look: Stanley S4*
> 
> Picked up a Stanley SW #S4 recently, thought I'd show some detail in a post.
> 
> A faint, stamped "No S4" in front of the knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how it looks apart:
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Worked up the iron, caught an image showing the burr…
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some shots to show a plane in detail that's not all that common. Thanks for looking!


Mike, it is nice to pull these planes back into a user world for at least awhile. And, like you, I'm not sure I'm a fan of heavier planes 'just because they're heavier.'

Don, first impression is not that good from a user perspective. Freshly sharpened and hones, shavings not that good although fettling was easy enough. It's built like a tank, but applied to a smoother (vs. jack, for example) might be counter-productive to producing good work.


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## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick Look: Stanley S4*
> 
> Picked up a Stanley SW #S4 recently, thought I'd show some detail in a post.
> 
> A faint, stamped "No S4" in front of the knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how it looks apart:
> 
> 
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> Worked up the iron, caught an image showing the burr…
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> Then together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Just some shots to show a plane in detail that's not all that common. Thanks for looking!


Never seen one of those before.
Best thoughts,
Mads
Lovely worktable. ;-)


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick Look: Stanley S4*
> 
> Picked up a Stanley SW #S4 recently, thought I'd show some detail in a post.
> 
> A faint, stamped "No S4" in front of the knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how it looks apart:
> 
> 
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> 
> Worked up the iron, caught an image showing the burr…
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some shots to show a plane in detail that's not all that common. Thanks for looking!


Yo, you know this S4 will not be shined up in any way (other than what's required for performance) once it hits my shop floor. It is what it is, my friend, and it will stay that way until it moves along. The #62 and #11 stand alone as the only planes to get refurbed thusfar.

Hey, Mads! I hadn't seen one close up before, either. Decided to treat myself to an item on Patrick's list earlier this month, and this plane caught my eye. SW logo and decal are tough to pass by when put together…


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## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick Look: Stanley S4*
> 
> Picked up a Stanley SW #S4 recently, thought I'd show some detail in a post.
> 
> A faint, stamped "No S4" in front of the knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how it looks apart:
> 
> 
> 
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> Worked up the iron, caught an image showing the burr…
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Then together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Just some shots to show a plane in detail that's not all that common. Thanks for looking!


;-)


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick Look: Stanley S4*
> 
> Picked up a Stanley SW #S4 recently, thought I'd show some detail in a post.
> 
> A faint, stamped "No S4" in front of the knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how it looks apart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Worked up the iron, caught an image showing the burr…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some shots to show a plane in detail that's not all that common. Thanks for looking!


Very nice Smitty. Good to see it found an appreciative home. Congratulations and thank you for sharing with the rest of us.

"I just admitted a sweet little lady Thursday with a broken wrist and pelvis. Her 103 birthday is today. The first thing that I thought when I pondered her age was: she was born when Stanley just started making type 11's. Thats how I relate to her age." - Fun to read about your analogous processing. Hope the old girl is doing well.


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## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick Look: Stanley S4*
> 
> Picked up a Stanley SW #S4 recently, thought I'd show some detail in a post.
> 
> A faint, stamped "No S4" in front of the knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how it looks apart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Worked up the iron, caught an image showing the burr…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some shots to show a plane in detail that's not all that common. Thanks for looking!


lovely work Smitty


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## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick Look: Stanley S4*
> 
> Picked up a Stanley SW #S4 recently, thought I'd show some detail in a post.
> 
> A faint, stamped "No S4" in front of the knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how it looks apart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked up the iron, caught an image showing the burr…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some shots to show a plane in detail that's not all that common. Thanks for looking!


T- she died this week. She had a pulmonary issue that landed her in the ICU along with the requisite medical flogging. Finally she said enough and declined any further medication. She slipped away the next day. I struggle to comprehend the bravery.

Sorry for the hi-jack Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick Look: Stanley S4*
> 
> Picked up a Stanley SW #S4 recently, thought I'd show some detail in a post.
> 
> A faint, stamped "No S4" in front of the knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how it looks apart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Worked up the iron, caught an image showing the burr…
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some shots to show a plane in detail that's not all that common. Thanks for looking!


No problem Yo.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Quick Look: Stanley S4*
> 
> Picked up a Stanley SW #S4 recently, thought I'd show some detail in a post.
> 
> A faint, stamped "No S4" in front of the knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how it looks apart:
> 
> 
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> 
> Worked up the iron, caught an image showing the burr…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some shots to show a plane in detail that's not all that common. Thanks for looking!


I just picked up a couple of type 11's. Its gonna be hard to pick up a type 11 and not think of that story. Its funny how people you never met can change your thought process.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Stanley Clapboard Gauge*

Yep, had siding to replace on the house, prior to painting, and used this tool:










I'm going to go way out on a limb and suggest I'm the first in my town to use one of these in the last 70+ years…










Tools that work. Maybe I should do a review here on LJs.


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## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Stanley Clapboard Gauge*
> 
> Yep, had siding to replace on the house, prior to painting, and used this tool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go way out on a limb and suggest I'm the first in my town to use one of these in the last 70+ years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools that work. Maybe I should do a review here on LJs.


Now if you just get the first course straight and level you got it licked! Cool tool and pics Smitty. Keep 'em coming.


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## Handtooler

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Stanley Clapboard Gauge*
> 
> Yep, had siding to replace on the house, prior to painting, and used this tool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go way out on a limb and suggest I'm the first in my town to use one of these in the last 70+ years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools that work. Maybe I should do a review here on LJs.


I saw one in use in 1946 after the war when home construction was really taking leaps forward. Also plumb bob and fancy wooden level. The guy hand sawed each piece for fitting using a saw bench on site. Gosh those were the years of education for me outside of the school work.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Stanley Clapboard Gauge*
> 
> Yep, had siding to replace on the house, prior to painting, and used this tool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go way out on a limb and suggest I'm the first in my town to use one of these in the last 70+ years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools that work. Maybe I should do a review here on LJs.


you may have started a comeback!!


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## ToddJB

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Stanley Clapboard Gauge*
> 
> Yep, had siding to replace on the house, prior to painting, and used this tool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go way out on a limb and suggest I'm the first in my town to use one of these in the last 70+ years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools that work. Maybe I should do a review here on LJs.


Smitty what's it do?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Stanley Clapboard Gauge*
> 
> Yep, had siding to replace on the house, prior to painting, and used this tool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go way out on a limb and suggest I'm the first in my town to use one of these in the last 70+ years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools that work. Maybe I should do a review here on LJs.


Ensures consistent reveal from one row of sidi g to the one above and below (in my case).


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## racerglen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Stanley Clapboard Gauge*
> 
> Yep, had siding to replace on the house, prior to painting, and used this tool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go way out on a limb and suggest I'm the first in my town to use one of these in the last 70+ years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools that work. Maybe I should do a review here on LJs.


Great inovation in tools,er , rediscovery.. sort of tool the vynle, sheep dip, can't spell that one, guys put on my house 30 plus years ago..did learn about putting the 7 1/2 circ blade in backwards though..


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Stanley Clapboard Gauge*
> 
> Yep, had siding to replace on the house, prior to painting, and used this tool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go way out on a limb and suggest I'm the first in my town to use one of these in the last 70+ years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools that work. Maybe I should do a review here on LJs.


Actually holds the clapboard in place, too. Pretty cool.

House is 115 years old, and some of the wood on the south-facing side has given up. I have salvage siding to use as replacement, but did have redwood drip cap made custom because it's no longer available.


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## gdpifer

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Stanley Clapboard Gauge*
> 
> Yep, had siding to replace on the house, prior to painting, and used this tool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go way out on a limb and suggest I'm the first in my town to use one of these in the last 70+ years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools that work. Maybe I should do a review here on LJs.


I never saw such a tool but made a homemade guide to accomplish the same thing when put used clapboard on the workshop I built. A tool such as that would have been nice.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Stanley Clapboard Gauge*
> 
> Yep, had siding to replace on the house, prior to painting, and used this tool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go way out on a limb and suggest I'm the first in my town to use one of these in the last 70+ years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools that work. Maybe I should do a review here on LJs.


Garry, my pine 'guide' was thrown out in a recent shop purge. Thought about it, re-thought it, then reminded myself there were a couple of gauges in my cabinet for doing the job.
.
.
.
This works much better than the 'story stick' ever did.


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## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Stanley Clapboard Gauge*
> 
> Yep, had siding to replace on the house, prior to painting, and used this tool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go way out on a limb and suggest I'm the first in my town to use one of these in the last 70+ years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools that work. Maybe I should do a review here on LJs.


SW too, never would have known what that was.


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## Freakazoid

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Stanley Clapboard Gauge*
> 
> Yep, had siding to replace on the house, prior to painting, and used this tool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go way out on a limb and suggest I'm the first in my town to use one of these in the last 70+ years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools that work. Maybe I should do a review here on LJs.


Great post Smitty. I did some siding work on my house a few years ago and could have really used something like this. I had found some newer stuff that does the same thing but just stuck with the tape measure and eyeball, didn't want to spend the money on plastic. Seeing these though, I think I will pick a couple up, I know that I will have to do more siding work…


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Stanley Clapboard Gauge*
> 
> Yep, had siding to replace on the house, prior to painting, and used this tool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go way out on a limb and suggest I'm the first in my town to use one of these in the last 70+ years…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tools that work. Maybe I should do a review here on LJs.


The first one, in your town, to use that type of tool in 70 years…. 

Not only having the ability to identify this obscure tool but also puting it to use… so very typical of you.

Thank you Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Markwell DP2 Diamond Point Stapler*

Not a big thing, but definitely one of those "used one a long time ago, now I want one" things that so many of us can identify with.

I worked at the local lumber yard when I was in high school, and spent many hours repairing windows, storm glass, picture frames, etc. in the back room. When my wife wanted an old window re-glassed for pictures, it reminded me how much I hate using these things:










ebay is a wonderful thing for finding the most obscure things… It appears diamond point staplers were marketed as either Red Devil or Markwell, with the latter being much less expensive (sought after?). So that's what I found, along with a box of NOS fasteners that will last me several lifetimes.










here's the 'ammo'










And a pose:










That's it, just a quick welcome to a new shop tool. As always, thanks for looking.


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## putty

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Markwell DP2 Diamond Point Stapler*
> 
> Not a big thing, but definitely one of those "used one a long time ago, now I want one" things that so many of us can identify with.
> 
> I worked at the local lumber yard when I was in high school, and spent many hours repairing windows, storm glass, picture frames, etc. in the back room. When my wife wanted an old window re-glassed for pictures, it reminded me how much I hate using these things:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ebay is a wonderful thing for finding the most obscure things… It appears diamond point staplers were marketed as either Red Devil or Markwell, with the latter being much less expensive (sought after?). So that's what I found, along with a box of NOS fasteners that will last me several lifetimes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's the 'ammo'
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a pose:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, just a quick welcome to a new shop tool. As always, thanks for looking.


Nice, I put some points in a cheap hobby lobby frame recently. I used a "putty" knife to push in the points. I was afraid I was going to break the glass.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Markwell DP2 Diamond Point Stapler*
> 
> Not a big thing, but definitely one of those "used one a long time ago, now I want one" things that so many of us can identify with.
> 
> I worked at the local lumber yard when I was in high school, and spent many hours repairing windows, storm glass, picture frames, etc. in the back room. When my wife wanted an old window re-glassed for pictures, it reminded me how much I hate using these things:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ebay is a wonderful thing for finding the most obscure things… It appears diamond point staplers were marketed as either Red Devil or Markwell, with the latter being much less expensive (sought after?). So that's what I found, along with a box of NOS fasteners that will last me several lifetimes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's the 'ammo'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a pose:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, just a quick welcome to a new shop tool. As always, thanks for looking.


I did break one of the four I put in, doing just that…


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Markwell DP2 Diamond Point Stapler*
> 
> Not a big thing, but definitely one of those "used one a long time ago, now I want one" things that so many of us can identify with.
> 
> I worked at the local lumber yard when I was in high school, and spent many hours repairing windows, storm glass, picture frames, etc. in the back room. When my wife wanted an old window re-glassed for pictures, it reminded me how much I hate using these things:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ebay is a wonderful thing for finding the most obscure things… It appears diamond point staplers were marketed as either Red Devil or Markwell, with the latter being much less expensive (sought after?). So that's what I found, along with a box of NOS fasteners that will last me several lifetimes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's the 'ammo'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a pose:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, just a quick welcome to a new shop tool. As always, thanks for looking.


I typically used a screw driver or putty knife. I broke the glass on the last display case I tried it on. I probably should get the right tool as well!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Markwell DP2 Diamond Point Stapler*
> 
> Not a big thing, but definitely one of those "used one a long time ago, now I want one" things that so many of us can identify with.
> 
> I worked at the local lumber yard when I was in high school, and spent many hours repairing windows, storm glass, picture frames, etc. in the back room. When my wife wanted an old window re-glassed for pictures, it reminded me how much I hate using these things:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ebay is a wonderful thing for finding the most obscure things… It appears diamond point staplers were marketed as either Red Devil or Markwell, with the latter being much less expensive (sought after?). So that's what I found, along with a box of NOS fasteners that will last me several lifetimes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's the 'ammo'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a pose:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, just a quick welcome to a new shop tool. As always, thanks for looking.


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Markwell DP2 Diamond Point Stapler*
> 
> Not a big thing, but definitely one of those "used one a long time ago, now I want one" things that so many of us can identify with.
> 
> I worked at the local lumber yard when I was in high school, and spent many hours repairing windows, storm glass, picture frames, etc. in the back room. When my wife wanted an old window re-glassed for pictures, it reminded me how much I hate using these things:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ebay is a wonderful thing for finding the most obscure things… It appears diamond point staplers were marketed as either Red Devil or Markwell, with the latter being much less expensive (sought after?). So that's what I found, along with a box of NOS fasteners that will last me several lifetimes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's the 'ammo'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a pose:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, just a quick welcome to a new shop tool. As always, thanks for looking.


Goodness, glad I am not the only galoot to break glass with a screwdriver! 
Looks like a cool tool, Smitty! Congrats,


----------



## Slyy

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Markwell DP2 Diamond Point Stapler*
> 
> Not a big thing, but definitely one of those "used one a long time ago, now I want one" things that so many of us can identify with.
> 
> I worked at the local lumber yard when I was in high school, and spent many hours repairing windows, storm glass, picture frames, etc. in the back room. When my wife wanted an old window re-glassed for pictures, it reminded me how much I hate using these things:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ebay is a wonderful thing for finding the most obscure things… It appears diamond point staplers were marketed as either Red Devil or Markwell, with the latter being much less expensive (sought after?). So that's what I found, along with a box of NOS fasteners that will last me several lifetimes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's the 'ammo'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a pose:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, just a quick welcome to a new shop tool. As always, thanks for looking.


Having never messed with windows/frames was wholly unfamiliar with this tool. Thanks for the enlightenment Smitty!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Another Connection to the Past*

A couple of years after my uncle saw fit to send of few of my grandfather's tools home with me, an aunt visited today with a very special gift.










It's a Stanley #103 block plane, one that was her father's plane (my grandfather); the same that ran a cabinet shop and used the saw, sandbags, M-F eggbeater, etc. that are each in my shop. Why the orange color? To tell his tools apart from anyone else's, my dad says. The color is a dead giveaway, as we have an alum. string level of his in a hand-made case that's painted the same color. Guess I know where my Shop Style Guide tendencies originate.










With no sharpening at all, it was able to edge pine. Needs honing, of course, but using it was thrill. And it's an older one… How can I tell? It has a certain trademark that I recognized…










Guess I know where my SW tendencies come from, too. 










That's all for now, and as always, thanks for looking!


----------



## Slyy

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Connection to the Past*
> 
> A couple of years after my uncle saw fit to send of few of my grandfather's tools home with me, an aunt visited today with a very special gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Stanley #103 block plane, one that was her father's plane (my grandfather); the same that ran a cabinet shop and used the saw, sandbags, M-F eggbeater, etc. that are each in my shop. Why the orange color? To tell his tools apart from anyone else's, my dad says. The color is a dead giveaway, as we have an alum. string level of his in a hand-made case that's painted the same color. Guess I know where my Shop Style Guide tendencies originate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With no sharpening at all, it was able to edge pine. Needs honing, of course, but using it was thrill. And it's an older one… How can I tell? It has a certain trademark that I recognized…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I know where my SW tendencies come from, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now, and as always, thanks for looking!


Smitty, I'm always torn that I never wanted my grandpa's WW stuff until years after the fact. Always intend to try tracking some of it down if ever possible. It's always great to keep that visceral connection to the past through the living artifacts that help define it. I think that's a draw for most of us with the old tool obsession. I didn't personally retain a large portion of my own connections, but what I have I certainly cherish. It is beyond doubt that those things you have are in great hands, thanks for sharing!


----------



## TheFridge

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Connection to the Past*
> 
> A couple of years after my uncle saw fit to send of few of my grandfather's tools home with me, an aunt visited today with a very special gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Stanley #103 block plane, one that was her father's plane (my grandfather); the same that ran a cabinet shop and used the saw, sandbags, M-F eggbeater, etc. that are each in my shop. Why the orange color? To tell his tools apart from anyone else's, my dad says. The color is a dead giveaway, as we have an alum. string level of his in a hand-made case that's painted the same color. Guess I know where my Shop Style Guide tendencies originate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With no sharpening at all, it was able to edge pine. Needs honing, of course, but using it was thrill. And it's an older one… How can I tell? It has a certain trademark that I recognized…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I know where my SW tendencies come from, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now, and as always, thanks for looking!


Great to hear. All I have is a framing square and a pocket knife from my grandfather to pass down to my son, but I'm lucky to have it. He has a couple medals from ww2 Id be proud to hang on my wall. Maybe one day.


----------



## summerfi

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Connection to the Past*
> 
> A couple of years after my uncle saw fit to send of few of my grandfather's tools home with me, an aunt visited today with a very special gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Stanley #103 block plane, one that was her father's plane (my grandfather); the same that ran a cabinet shop and used the saw, sandbags, M-F eggbeater, etc. that are each in my shop. Why the orange color? To tell his tools apart from anyone else's, my dad says. The color is a dead giveaway, as we have an alum. string level of his in a hand-made case that's painted the same color. Guess I know where my Shop Style Guide tendencies originate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With no sharpening at all, it was able to edge pine. Needs honing, of course, but using it was thrill. And it's an older one… How can I tell? It has a certain trademark that I recognized…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I know where my SW tendencies come from, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now, and as always, thanks for looking!


Smitty, I have a 103 that my dad gave me many years ago. It may have belonged to my granddad at one time, I'm not sure. It's a sweet little plane and I've used it a lot over the years. Congrats on reuniting with yours. Family heirlooms make the best tools.


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Connection to the Past*
> 
> A couple of years after my uncle saw fit to send of few of my grandfather's tools home with me, an aunt visited today with a very special gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Stanley #103 block plane, one that was her father's plane (my grandfather); the same that ran a cabinet shop and used the saw, sandbags, M-F eggbeater, etc. that are each in my shop. Why the orange color? To tell his tools apart from anyone else's, my dad says. The color is a dead giveaway, as we have an alum. string level of his in a hand-made case that's painted the same color. Guess I know where my Shop Style Guide tendencies originate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With no sharpening at all, it was able to edge pine. Needs honing, of course, but using it was thrill. And it's an older one… How can I tell? It has a certain trademark that I recognized…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I know where my SW tendencies come from, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now, and as always, thanks for looking!


Great to have these family keepsakes and even better to enjoy using them on a daily basis.


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Connection to the Past*
> 
> A couple of years after my uncle saw fit to send of few of my grandfather's tools home with me, an aunt visited today with a very special gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Stanley #103 block plane, one that was her father's plane (my grandfather); the same that ran a cabinet shop and used the saw, sandbags, M-F eggbeater, etc. that are each in my shop. Why the orange color? To tell his tools apart from anyone else's, my dad says. The color is a dead giveaway, as we have an alum. string level of his in a hand-made case that's painted the same color. Guess I know where my Shop Style Guide tendencies originate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With no sharpening at all, it was able to edge pine. Needs honing, of course, but using it was thrill. And it's an older one… How can I tell? It has a certain trademark that I recognized…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I know where my SW tendencies come from, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now, and as always, thanks for looking!


Nice to know it has gone to a good home Smitty. Did you restore that Millers Falls No.2 or were you lucky enough to buy it like that?


----------



## putty

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Connection to the Past*
> 
> A couple of years after my uncle saw fit to send of few of my grandfather's tools home with me, an aunt visited today with a very special gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Stanley #103 block plane, one that was her father's plane (my grandfather); the same that ran a cabinet shop and used the saw, sandbags, M-F eggbeater, etc. that are each in my shop. Why the orange color? To tell his tools apart from anyone else's, my dad says. The color is a dead giveaway, as we have an alum. string level of his in a hand-made case that's painted the same color. Guess I know where my Shop Style Guide tendencies originate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With no sharpening at all, it was able to edge pine. Needs honing, of course, but using it was thrill. And it's an older one… How can I tell? It has a certain trademark that I recognized…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I know where my SW tendencies come from, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now, and as always, thanks for looking!


That is nice Smitty, Out of your vast Stanley collection that plane will probably mean the most to you.


----------



## jjw5858

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Connection to the Past*
> 
> A couple of years after my uncle saw fit to send of few of my grandfather's tools home with me, an aunt visited today with a very special gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Stanley #103 block plane, one that was her father's plane (my grandfather); the same that ran a cabinet shop and used the saw, sandbags, M-F eggbeater, etc. that are each in my shop. Why the orange color? To tell his tools apart from anyone else's, my dad says. The color is a dead giveaway, as we have an alum. string level of his in a hand-made case that's painted the same color. Guess I know where my Shop Style Guide tendencies originate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With no sharpening at all, it was able to edge pine. Needs honing, of course, but using it was thrill. And it's an older one… How can I tell? It has a certain trademark that I recognized…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I know where my SW tendencies come from, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now, and as always, thanks for looking!


Great story and pictures Smitty. There is nothing better than using tools from the past and putting your new ideas to work with them. Thanks for sharing it.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Connection to the Past*
> 
> A couple of years after my uncle saw fit to send of few of my grandfather's tools home with me, an aunt visited today with a very special gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Stanley #103 block plane, one that was her father's plane (my grandfather); the same that ran a cabinet shop and used the saw, sandbags, M-F eggbeater, etc. that are each in my shop. Why the orange color? To tell his tools apart from anyone else's, my dad says. The color is a dead giveaway, as we have an alum. string level of his in a hand-made case that's painted the same color. Guess I know where my Shop Style Guide tendencies originate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With no sharpening at all, it was able to edge pine. Needs honing, of course, but using it was thrill. And it's an older one… How can I tell? It has a certain trademark that I recognized…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I know where my SW tendencies come from, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now, and as always, thanks for looking!


Andy, the #2 was also my grandad's. That's the way it came to me.

Thanks, everyone, for the comments. Bob, very cool re: your #103. The plane just may be a bit underrated; first impression is that it fits my hand well, I like the adjuster and the weight is just right. This one just may be a 'regular' vs occasional user.


----------



## ToddJB

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Connection to the Past*
> 
> A couple of years after my uncle saw fit to send of few of my grandfather's tools home with me, an aunt visited today with a very special gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Stanley #103 block plane, one that was her father's plane (my grandfather); the same that ran a cabinet shop and used the saw, sandbags, M-F eggbeater, etc. that are each in my shop. Why the orange color? To tell his tools apart from anyone else's, my dad says. The color is a dead giveaway, as we have an alum. string level of his in a hand-made case that's painted the same color. Guess I know where my Shop Style Guide tendencies originate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With no sharpening at all, it was able to edge pine. Needs honing, of course, but using it was thrill. And it's an older one… How can I tell? It has a certain trademark that I recognized…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I know where my SW tendencies come from, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now, and as always, thanks for looking!


Very cool, Smitty. Like Jake, I would love to be able to track down some of my grampa's tools. He was a farmer, but I remember him always refinishing furniture. I was young when he died and had zero interest in woodworking, though, and I believe all the tools have found other homes. Super cool that you can have these AND use them.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Connection to the Past*
> 
> A couple of years after my uncle saw fit to send of few of my grandfather's tools home with me, an aunt visited today with a very special gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Stanley #103 block plane, one that was her father's plane (my grandfather); the same that ran a cabinet shop and used the saw, sandbags, M-F eggbeater, etc. that are each in my shop. Why the orange color? To tell his tools apart from anyone else's, my dad says. The color is a dead giveaway, as we have an alum. string level of his in a hand-made case that's painted the same color. Guess I know where my Shop Style Guide tendencies originate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With no sharpening at all, it was able to edge pine. Needs honing, of course, but using it was thrill. And it's an older one… How can I tell? It has a certain trademark that I recognized…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I know where my SW tendencies come from, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now, and as always, thanks for looking!


Never knew about the tools my aunt and uncle had. Dad had several, so maybe it's a couple dozen pieces now that we have between our two shops.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Connection to the Past*
> 
> A couple of years after my uncle saw fit to send of few of my grandfather's tools home with me, an aunt visited today with a very special gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Stanley #103 block plane, one that was her father's plane (my grandfather); the same that ran a cabinet shop and used the saw, sandbags, M-F eggbeater, etc. that are each in my shop. Why the orange color? To tell his tools apart from anyone else's, my dad says. The color is a dead giveaway, as we have an alum. string level of his in a hand-made case that's painted the same color. Guess I know where my Shop Style Guide tendencies originate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With no sharpening at all, it was able to edge pine. Needs honing, of course, but using it was thrill. And it's an older one… How can I tell? It has a certain trademark that I recognized…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I know where my SW tendencies come from, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now, and as always, thanks for looking!


Pretty cool to have that connection to the past. The tool definitely got a great new home.


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Connection to the Past*
> 
> A couple of years after my uncle saw fit to send of few of my grandfather's tools home with me, an aunt visited today with a very special gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Stanley #103 block plane, one that was her father's plane (my grandfather); the same that ran a cabinet shop and used the saw, sandbags, M-F eggbeater, etc. that are each in my shop. Why the orange color? To tell his tools apart from anyone else's, my dad says. The color is a dead giveaway, as we have an alum. string level of his in a hand-made case that's painted the same color. Guess I know where my Shop Style Guide tendencies originate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With no sharpening at all, it was able to edge pine. Needs honing, of course, but using it was thrill. And it's an older one… How can I tell? It has a certain trademark that I recognized…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I know where my SW tendencies come from, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now, and as always, thanks for looking!


very cool, Smitty!
Priceless IMO.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Connection to the Past*
> 
> A couple of years after my uncle saw fit to send of few of my grandfather's tools home with me, an aunt visited today with a very special gift.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Stanley #103 block plane, one that was her father's plane (my grandfather); the same that ran a cabinet shop and used the saw, sandbags, M-F eggbeater, etc. that are each in my shop. Why the orange color? To tell his tools apart from anyone else's, my dad says. The color is a dead giveaway, as we have an alum. string level of his in a hand-made case that's painted the same color. Guess I know where my Shop Style Guide tendencies originate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With no sharpening at all, it was able to edge pine. Needs honing, of course, but using it was thrill. And it's an older one… How can I tell? It has a certain trademark that I recognized…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I know where my SW tendencies come from, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now, and as always, thanks for looking!


Perfect.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*New / Old Marking Knife*

Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:










The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.

I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…










and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…










I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.










A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


----------



## 85497

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


That is an awesome job and great finds, congrats!


----------



## Waterlog

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


Nice day in the wild. I am headed for an estate sale in the morning. Got a bead on an Emmert K1 U5 for $80, we'll see how that adventure goes. I will look for putty knives from now on!!!


----------



## putty

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


Someone got some good use out of that putty knife, I bet it was more than an inch or more longer. With the rosewood it was probably an expensive in it's day. Good to see it getting a new life.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


LWB, good luck on the emmert! I'd have to make a new bench just to handle a vise like that. It'd be awesome, and for $80… wow. Someone dropped a zero there, almost…

I think you're right, putty, about it being well used and a quality piece. The letter "A" is stamped on each side, in each brass rivet head. Surprised to find it, haven't seen a small one like it before. And like I said, the scales are very, very firmly held in place. No scuffed / split edges, either. Feels great in the hand. Bevel'd an edge on one side, so it's a right-hander's knife when pulled towards you. Have to work on my free-hand honing skills with angled edges.


----------



## upchuck

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


Smitty-

Good score! By my eye that putty knife (thrown in for free no less) is the queen of that lot. Great repurpose and great save on the rosewood tool.

chuck


----------



## DonBroussard

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


Good job on the repurposing, Smitty. I'm still digging that lamp though . . .


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


Congratulations on the acquisitions Smitty. Wonderful looking marking knife you made.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


over the top! That's a good idea with the putty knife.


----------



## superdav721

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


I love flea market finds. Well done Smitty!


----------



## ToddJB

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


Clever and resourceful. I like it.

And Waterlog if pick up and Emmert for $80 I will be very sad I am not you.


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


Very nice, Smitty!
I love repurposed knives.
And yours already has a vintage handle…sweet!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!





> And Waterlog if pick up and Emmert for $80 I will be very sad I am not you.
> 
> - ToddJB


Ain't that the truth… Hope it gets it!


----------



## oltexasboy1

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


The Craftsman saws are a pretty good buy Smitty. I have a couple that I have had for 30 or 40 years and the steel is pretty good. I just bought a Disston from the early 1900's and the steel cuts about the same as the craftsman , so they should be a good user for years, as they have been for me.


----------



## Waterlog

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!





















My wife is going to poop! However, this ranks up there with the best pickin' days I ever had at an estate sale. This gentleman took very good care of his tools, all in very good condition.
Disston D8
Unknown maker split nut looks English vaneer saw
Miller Falls No.5 Drill NOS
Starrett plumb bob
Stanley No. 71 Router plane
Double rod 1888 marking gauge Leavitt-Sole Co.
Fancy 4 knob molding plane Chapin-Stephens
No name beading plane
K1-U5 Emmeret Pattern makers vise complete (only one broken dog on bottom)
All for $157 plus tax
I am going to have some fun now restoring the vise. The D8 has a chip out of the back but I would like to experiment making a half back saw, it has a nice etch, needs bluing process (never done it before)
Might anyone know how to ID the vaneer saw? Anyway just sharing my excitement, thanks for looking. LWB


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


LWB, that is borderline you suck material…

Wow…

Well done, Sir! Need to see / learn more about that Emmert. It's reputation is well known, I know very little about them except DanK and my HS Shop Class each have one.

That router is a great buy, same with the MF eggbeater. That marking gauge may be the sleeper of the bunch. You're gonna love it in the long run, I have a feeling. Looks like a good one.


----------



## ToddJB

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


Yep. Sure enough



> And Waterlog if pick up and Emmert for $80 I will be very sad I am not you.
> 
> - ToddJB


I was totally right.

Good job, WL, you've been killing it lately on the good deals.


----------



## Waterlog

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


*BEFORE:*









*AFTER:*









I had some fun stripping paint & working on this vise however, I really don't like the industrial smell in the shop and the black crap that gets on your hands. Now I'm whining for crying out loud. I like the natural look without the paint so, I went with BLO as a finish/protectant. The camera flash makes it appear lighter in color but it is actually more of a blackish or patina brown. We are probably moving so, I will build a new split top Roubo bench where ever we end up next and this Emmert will become the focal point. Leaning toward eastern TN or somewhere down that way.
Thanks for looking.


----------



## ToddJB

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *New / Old Marking Knife*
> 
> Went on a run to a few flea markets this afternoon and found a few things to continue my slide down the slippery slope of vintage tooldom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7oz SW hammer was a nice find at four bucks, as was the Craftsman-badged saw for six dollars. The Stanley 1/4" No.40 chisel was four bucks, the EC Stearns mitre box was five, and the seller threw in the small, rosewood-handled putty knife for free. And there was a plan for it: I wanted to make it a marking knife for the tool chest.
> 
> I have a knife at the bench that I use all the time, but the very small size of the putty knife said 'marking knife' almost as soon as I saw it. Good dimension, very solid scales. So I marked it with a scratch awl…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did some work at the 'lectric grinder to set the basic shape. After some time at the oilstone, I had a knife…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say my sharpening was knock-down, drag-out awesome on the knife's cutting edge, but it's pretty good. Enough to make very fine cuts in mahogany scrap. So I'd say it's good to roost in the top tray of the chest now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good re-purpose, I'd say. Short and sweet post, and as always, thanks for looking!


Awesome.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Too Much Wood?*

Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
I've got it, let me tell ya.

Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?

• Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
• Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
• Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.

And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…

If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?

So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


----------



## DLK

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Too Much Wood?*
> 
> Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
> I've got it, let me tell ya.
> 
> Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?
> 
> • Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
> • Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
> • Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.
> 
> And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…
> 
> If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?
> 
> So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


I might eat the pies. But never had one made of doug fir. LOL

Generally I give scraps of pine to my wife to burn. But she wants hard wood because it burns hotter. Eventually I think you have to give up and make the sacrifice if you can't store it. Give it to a youth group to use, put it out at a garage sale, etc.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Too Much Wood?*
> 
> Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
> I've got it, let me tell ya.
> 
> Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?
> 
> • Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
> • Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
> • Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.
> 
> And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…
> 
> If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?
> 
> So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


A cold winter and a wood stove helps a lot.


----------



## TheFridge

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Too Much Wood?*
> 
> Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
> I've got it, let me tell ya.
> 
> Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?
> 
> • Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
> • Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
> • Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.
> 
> And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…
> 
> If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?
> 
> So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


Burn it usually.

I Can use just about anything, but if it's pine, which is easily acquired, I just burn it if sits around the shop too long.


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Too Much Wood?*
> 
> Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
> I've got it, let me tell ya.
> 
> Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?
> 
> • Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
> • Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
> • Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.
> 
> And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…
> 
> If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?
> 
> So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


The single biggest problem I have in my shop is bits and pieces of wood and cut-offs Smitty. I think Don's suggestion is the most practical one, but pine isn't great in fireplace or oven as it leaves a coating on the inside of the chimney, besides I prefer to burn birch in the oven and some other woods smell bad while burning. My only suggestion would be to use those limited pieces for some small projects. Some day a smarter woodworker than myself (that includes most of LJ) will write a book on the subject with a lot of small project suggestions. It might help to keep in mind that a lot of nice stuff can be cut on the scroll saw including chess pieces, small boxes, letters and a few thousand other things. The problem is that we would have to take time out from the projects we really want to do for those small items.


----------



## rhybeka

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Too Much Wood?*
> 
> Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
> I've got it, let me tell ya.
> 
> Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?
> 
> • Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
> • Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
> • Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.
> 
> And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…
> 
> If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?
> 
> So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


Hm. When you find out let me know. I'm to that point as well Smitty - which I'm going to have to do something about when spring thaw comes. :\ Plane practice perhaps? depending on what's out there


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Too Much Wood?*
> 
> Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
> I've got it, let me tell ya.
> 
> Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?
> 
> • Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
> • Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
> • Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.
> 
> And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…
> 
> If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?
> 
> So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


PM me your address Smitty and I'll send a container lorry. Never had that problem Smitty and doubt I ever will. I don't have space for a lot of wood, so I just don't buy a lot of wood. I buy what I need and use most of what I buy. I would love to have your problem though. Every Monday morning I stand on the platform at my local backwater train station and gaze a six 20ft x 12" x 2" lengths of clear softwood that have been lying on the ground since last November. I can't look at it without thinking workbench. It is left over from repairing the footbridge. I even asked the man at the ticket office what they were going to do with it and he said he didn't know. I think if it is still there in another months time, it won't be there in another two months time if you catch my drift. Mind you, I've got no idea how I would move it. I suppose I could put wheels on the ends of each plank and ride it home like a giant skateboard. )

Carve some spoons. There's a lot to learn from carving a few spoons.


----------



## putty

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Too Much Wood?*
> 
> Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
> I've got it, let me tell ya.
> 
> Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?
> 
> • Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
> • Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
> • Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.
> 
> And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…
> 
> If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?
> 
> So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


Bundle it up, sell it at an auction as furniture grade hardwood and softwood. Take the proceeds and but a new tool.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Too Much Wood?*
> 
> Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
> I've got it, let me tell ya.
> 
> Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?
> 
> • Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
> • Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
> • Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.
> 
> And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…
> 
> If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?
> 
> So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


Andy, don't you know anyone with a sharp handsaw that can cut those timbers to a more manageable size for transport?

I appreciate the ideas, everyone. I'm really trying to see drawer fronts, or shelves, or anything for that matter. So much of it was scrap when I found it, so using it for a back yard burn wouldn't be a crime as it's saved from a landfill. WE'll see. I'll do my best to make sure I really don't have enough 'like' materials to use before burning, but that's likely the route I'll take.


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Too Much Wood?*
> 
> Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
> I've got it, let me tell ya.
> 
> Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?
> 
> • Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
> • Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
> • Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.
> 
> And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…
> 
> If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?
> 
> So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


I might do Smitty, but then I wouldn't get a Guinness world record for the longest skateboard as well as some free wood. )


----------



## lightweightladylefty

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Too Much Wood?*
> 
> Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
> I've got it, let me tell ya.
> 
> Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?
> 
> • Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
> • Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
> • Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.
> 
> And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…
> 
> If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?
> 
> So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


Smitty,

I use it in place of plywood for shop cabinets where I don't worry about perfectly matched grains. You'd be amazed how much you can use up that way. I'm not concerned if one drawer box is pine, another poplar and another is oak. If the fronts match, no one usually notices what is inside the shop cabinet. But I still have another 1000+ board feet of less-than-ideal hardwood (mostly oak) to use up on shop cabinets and I'm running out of projects.

L/W


----------



## HickoryHill

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Too Much Wood?*
> 
> Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
> I've got it, let me tell ya.
> 
> Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?
> 
> • Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
> • Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
> • Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.
> 
> And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…
> 
> If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?
> 
> So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


I usually get to the point of burning it or throwing it away for the stuff not burnable. I tend not to be the one to let stuff linger terribly long…........woodworking or otherwise.


----------



## helluvawreck

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Too Much Wood?*
> 
> Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
> I've got it, let me tell ya.
> 
> Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?
> 
> • Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
> • Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
> • Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.
> 
> And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…
> 
> If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?
> 
> So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


The main thing that I did about it is to toss everything that is less than 3 ft long. I have a section in my large lumber rack where I can store these shorts vertically. I will store some of these for short periods of time in a few nooks and crannies but the minute they begin to bother me out they go if I can't see that I will use them right around the corner. If you've got excess of this wood all over your shop it creates a fire hazard and other hazards, dust collects all over it, and it breeds disorganization and inefficient habits. All of this cost time. If I find that it cost too much of a loss by throwing it away then that means I need to build a shed to store this sort of thing in. Fortunately for me the waste dumpsters for our area are less than a mile from my shop.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Too Much Wood?*
> 
> Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
> I've got it, let me tell ya.
> 
> Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?
> 
> • Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
> • Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
> • Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.
> 
> And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…
> 
> If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?
> 
> So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


Find someone who's just getting into the craft and give it away to them to use, practice on, make mistakes with. I found this to be well serving when I moved houses last year. Those thin strips of purpleheart and walnut sap wood made a nice cutting board project for another LJ. You wont miss it and you'll be extra excited when you see what someone else did with your scraps.


----------



## arvanlaar

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Too Much Wood?*
> 
> Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
> I've got it, let me tell ya.
> 
> Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?
> 
> • Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
> • Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
> • Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.
> 
> And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…
> 
> If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?
> 
> So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


I have a 200sqft shop that is used to store a few things as well so its not only for working on projects. I tend to look to the ceiling for storage solutions. You can build racks out or pull down compartments to store things up there and that don't take away from your workspace at floor level.


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## john2005

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Too Much Wood?*
> 
> Blogged on a range of topics here on LJs, but not touched on this one ever before: Shop Wood.
> I've got it, let me tell ya.
> 
> Scraps of wood of all types, from any number of home renovations / tear downs / scavenger hunts over the past 30 years, have invaded my shop and have become quite the problem. And the first step to dealing with problems is admitting them, right? As I was piddling around in the shop last night, I came to realize having the material was not in itself a bad thing… It's not having enough of any specific wood type that is crippling. How about some examples?
> 
> • Three pieces of 1×3 white pine, each about 5' long;
> • Two pieces of 5/8" yellow (lodgepole) pine, 10" across and 30" long; and
> • Two pies of 1×4 doug fir, each around 4' long.
> 
> And so on, and so on, and so on. Meaning scores of little boards and scraps of all shapes, sizes and materials…
> 
> If I were committed to doing something with this pile of material, it'd be colossal PITA… Thicknesses not consistent, not to mention checking on some edges and cupping on a couple of the boards. That, in addition to the varied grain patterns and colors makes for a disaster of a final product. I can't do anything significant with this stuff, and I'm not one to come up with small things just for sake of using every scrap. I've kept these boards around for years, moved them several times, but there comes a point that is has to stop. Right?
> 
> So the .02 questions: Have you reached this point in your own shop, and what did you do as a result?


I hear ya Smitty. I started out with nothing by way of good wood so everything that was remotely decent I held on to. Now there are two or three boxes of cutoffs, the shelves are full and I had to add on to hold what I was accumulating. I found the small stuff I could glue together each holiday and turn it on the lathe, make "fancy" handles for things. People really like that and it doesn't seem to take up too much time. But I need to get rid of it faster. 
I'll tell you what I quit doing was hanging on to anything with potential. Probably doesn't help much, but if you find an answer, let me know.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*How to Stretch Table Legs*

1. Start with a pile of legs that are each a couple of inches short.










2. Pull the broken wheels from the bottom of the legs. It's the hole from those wheels that lead to the fix.










3. Cut a 'fifth leg' into 3" lengths. Those are doweled and glued to the squared bottoms.



















4. When the glue is set, head to the lathe.





































5. Some sanding, then cut excess off before a little rasp work and sanding finishes the process.










These legs will be primed and painted, but vintage walnut legs are definitely better quality and stability than the pine legs sold at the blue box stores today.


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## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How to Stretch Table Legs*
> 
> 1. Start with a pile of legs that are each a couple of inches short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Pull the broken wheels from the bottom of the legs. It's the hole from those wheels that lead to the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Cut a 'fifth leg' into 3" lengths. Those are doweled and glued to the squared bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 4. When the glue is set, head to the lathe.
> 
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> 
> 5. Some sanding, then cut excess off before a little rasp work and sanding finishes the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These legs will be primed and painted, but vintage walnut legs are definitely better quality and stability than the pine legs sold at the blue box stores today.


Is this for the commission project? Resourceful solution.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How to Stretch Table Legs*
> 
> 1. Start with a pile of legs that are each a couple of inches short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Pull the broken wheels from the bottom of the legs. It's the hole from those wheels that lead to the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Cut a 'fifth leg' into 3" lengths. Those are doweled and glued to the squared bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4. When the glue is set, head to the lathe.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 5. Some sanding, then cut excess off before a little rasp work and sanding finishes the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These legs will be primed and painted, but vintage walnut legs are definitely better quality and stability than the pine legs sold at the blue box stores today.


I made five of them, using one in destructive testing. The glued seam didn't break, the wood did. We've got a winner, so I have four reclaimed for the table and two for the front of the buffet. Very pleased, moving forward.

With the wheels, the legs were the right height when aprons were in place. Remove the wheels, there was a hole in the ends and the aprons were uncomfortably low.


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## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How to Stretch Table Legs*
> 
> 1. Start with a pile of legs that are each a couple of inches short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Pull the broken wheels from the bottom of the legs. It's the hole from those wheels that lead to the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Cut a 'fifth leg' into 3" lengths. Those are doweled and glued to the squared bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4. When the glue is set, head to the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 5. Some sanding, then cut excess off before a little rasp work and sanding finishes the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These legs will be primed and painted, but vintage walnut legs are definitely better quality and stability than the pine legs sold at the blue box stores today.


Great looking work, Smitty. sure wish I had a lathe that long…

Any problems with getting the old legs centered to re-turn?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How to Stretch Table Legs*
> 
> 1. Start with a pile of legs that are each a couple of inches short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Pull the broken wheels from the bottom of the legs. It's the hole from those wheels that lead to the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Cut a 'fifth leg' into 3" lengths. Those are doweled and glued to the squared bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4. When the glue is set, head to the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5. Some sanding, then cut excess off before a little rasp work and sanding finishes the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These legs will be primed and painted, but vintage walnut legs are definitely better quality and stability than the pine legs sold at the blue box stores today.


Top of the legs have three square corners, which solved that end. For the bottoms, it was less exact. I set each in the lathe 'tight' at the headstock, and adjusted tailstock location while slowly rotating the piece by hand. Worked very well!


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## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How to Stretch Table Legs*
> 
> 1. Start with a pile of legs that are each a couple of inches short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Pull the broken wheels from the bottom of the legs. It's the hole from those wheels that lead to the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Cut a 'fifth leg' into 3" lengths. Those are doweled and glued to the squared bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4. When the glue is set, head to the lathe.
> 
> 
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> 
> 5. Some sanding, then cut excess off before a little rasp work and sanding finishes the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These legs will be primed and painted, but vintage walnut legs are definitely better quality and stability than the pine legs sold at the blue box stores today.


*Reported Sighting of the elusive 'Board Stretcher'.*

Grab a cup of coffee, sit back and digest Smitty's latest tips on up-cycling reclaimed furniture fixtures, then take a walk out to the shop and …'stretch your Legs'.

As always, great advice, accompanied by a full tutorial.
Thanks for sharing, Smitty.

A 'Wink and a Nod' from Mother Nature for re-purposing her products.
Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


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## TerryDowning

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How to Stretch Table Legs*
> 
> 1. Start with a pile of legs that are each a couple of inches short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Pull the broken wheels from the bottom of the legs. It's the hole from those wheels that lead to the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Cut a 'fifth leg' into 3" lengths. Those are doweled and glued to the squared bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4. When the glue is set, head to the lathe.
> 
> 
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> 
> 5. Some sanding, then cut excess off before a little rasp work and sanding finishes the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These legs will be primed and painted, but vintage walnut legs are definitely better quality and stability than the pine legs sold at the blue box stores today.


And they say you can't make 'em grow if you cut too short. Yet another woodworking myth dispelled. Thanks for Sharing Smitty!!


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## ToddJB

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How to Stretch Table Legs*
> 
> 1. Start with a pile of legs that are each a couple of inches short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Pull the broken wheels from the bottom of the legs. It's the hole from those wheels that lead to the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Cut a 'fifth leg' into 3" lengths. Those are doweled and glued to the squared bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4. When the glue is set, head to the lathe.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 5. Some sanding, then cut excess off before a little rasp work and sanding finishes the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These legs will be primed and painted, but vintage walnut legs are definitely better quality and stability than the pine legs sold at the blue box stores today.


Awesome, Smitty. Good to hear the deconstruction test went swimmingly.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How to Stretch Table Legs*
> 
> 1. Start with a pile of legs that are each a couple of inches short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Pull the broken wheels from the bottom of the legs. It's the hole from those wheels that lead to the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Cut a 'fifth leg' into 3" lengths. Those are doweled and glued to the squared bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4. When the glue is set, head to the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5. Some sanding, then cut excess off before a little rasp work and sanding finishes the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These legs will be primed and painted, but vintage walnut legs are definitely better quality and stability than the pine legs sold at the blue box stores today.


^ and there's a higher bar when the stuff is going to leave the shop. I looked into brass feet, ball extensions and entirely new legs… Those seemed inferior to me, especially the look and (lack of density) feel of new. Tight grain? Uhm, no. These sure do. Very hard to plane this end grain. Seriously hard. I'm very confident in the approach, and my name is going on it.


----------



## Slyy

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How to Stretch Table Legs*
> 
> 1. Start with a pile of legs that are each a couple of inches short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Pull the broken wheels from the bottom of the legs. It's the hole from those wheels that lead to the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Cut a 'fifth leg' into 3" lengths. Those are doweled and glued to the squared bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4. When the glue is set, head to the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5. Some sanding, then cut excess off before a little rasp work and sanding finishes the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These legs will be primed and painted, but vintage walnut legs are definitely better quality and stability than the pine legs sold at the blue box stores today.


Awesome Smitty. Hey, gotta be honest here: I spent the previous three days reading back through just about everyone of your blogs. Let me just say THANKS! They are a veritable fount of information and helpful tidbits. Please keep it up!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How to Stretch Table Legs*
> 
> 1. Start with a pile of legs that are each a couple of inches short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Pull the broken wheels from the bottom of the legs. It's the hole from those wheels that lead to the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Cut a 'fifth leg' into 3" lengths. Those are doweled and glued to the squared bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4. When the glue is set, head to the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5. Some sanding, then cut excess off before a little rasp work and sanding finishes the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These legs will be primed and painted, but vintage walnut legs are definitely better quality and stability than the pine legs sold at the blue box stores today.


Jake, thanks for the comments! That's a ton of reading at this point, wow. Glad you liked any of them, and if I'm able to help anyone, all the better!


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## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How to Stretch Table Legs*
> 
> 1. Start with a pile of legs that are each a couple of inches short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Pull the broken wheels from the bottom of the legs. It's the hole from those wheels that lead to the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Cut a 'fifth leg' into 3" lengths. Those are doweled and glued to the squared bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4. When the glue is set, head to the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5. Some sanding, then cut excess off before a little rasp work and sanding finishes the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These legs will be primed and painted, but vintage walnut legs are definitely better quality and stability than the pine legs sold at the blue box stores today.


They came out great Smitty. You could also cut them in half at a place where you could add a turned element like a bead or bead and cove to hide glue joint, but I can see that it will likely be completely invisible anyway after finishing. Excellent work and a great idea too.


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *How to Stretch Table Legs*
> 
> 1. Start with a pile of legs that are each a couple of inches short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Pull the broken wheels from the bottom of the legs. It's the hole from those wheels that lead to the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Cut a 'fifth leg' into 3" lengths. Those are doweled and glued to the squared bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4. When the glue is set, head to the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5. Some sanding, then cut excess off before a little rasp work and sanding finishes the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These legs will be primed and painted, but vintage walnut legs are definitely better quality and stability than the pine legs sold at the blue box stores today.


Ever the wizard.

Thank you Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Cam Clamps, Anyone?*

It started with a blog whose author I can't recall, but the image of the clamps in use caught my eye and wouldn't be gone. They reminded me of the bench ducks offered by Veritas when I first saw them…










... only not quite. These clamps tightened by a lever rather than a twist. Too cool, the bug bit, and I was on a mission. More searching of the interwebz lead to another blog discussion of weird clamps, and between that dialog and some OldTools talk I found the keyword: Cam. An image search of "cam clamp vintage" served up what I was seeking:



















A few days of searching on eBay (I told you the bug bit, but if you're reading this I don't have to explain) got me the goods: E.C. Stearns cam clamps! Nice pair, almost steel in feel. Good to have new blood in the shop family! Then I came across several "Case" cam clamps. These are cast iron -nice heft to them-and very nice.










Not much else to say about them at present, but I do like cam action clamps. I won't be replacing all the Pony / Jorgys on the wall by any stretch, but it'll be hard to pass by other cams that cross my path. That's all for now, thanks for looking!


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## kaerlighedsbamsen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cam Clamps, Anyone?*
> 
> It started with a blog whose author I can't recall, but the image of the clamps in use caught my eye and wouldn't be gone. They reminded me of the bench ducks offered by Veritas when I first saw them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... only not quite. These clamps tightened by a lever rather than a twist. Too cool, the bug bit, and I was on a mission. More searching of the interwebz lead to another blog discussion of weird clamps, and between that dialog and some OldTools talk I found the keyword: Cam. An image search of "cam clamp vintage" served up what I was seeking:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few days of searching on eBay (I told you the bug bit, but if you're reading this I don't have to explain) got me the goods: E.C. Stearns cam clamps! Nice pair, almost steel in feel. Good to have new blood in the shop family! Then I came across several "Case" cam clamps. These are cast iron -nice heft to them-and very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much else to say about them at present, but I do like cam action clamps. I won't be replacing all the Pony / Jorgys on the wall by any stretch, but it'll be hard to pass by other cams that cross my path. That's all for now, thanks for looking!


Nice clamps - and nice find! Sort of the metal version of these wooden luthiers clamps i guess. 
Can theybe used with one hand?


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cam Clamps, Anyone?*
> 
> It started with a blog whose author I can't recall, but the image of the clamps in use caught my eye and wouldn't be gone. They reminded me of the bench ducks offered by Veritas when I first saw them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... only not quite. These clamps tightened by a lever rather than a twist. Too cool, the bug bit, and I was on a mission. More searching of the interwebz lead to another blog discussion of weird clamps, and between that dialog and some OldTools talk I found the keyword: Cam. An image search of "cam clamp vintage" served up what I was seeking:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few days of searching on eBay (I told you the bug bit, but if you're reading this I don't have to explain) got me the goods: E.C. Stearns cam clamps! Nice pair, almost steel in feel. Good to have new blood in the shop family! Then I came across several "Case" cam clamps. These are cast iron -nice heft to them-and very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much else to say about them at present, but I do like cam action clamps. I won't be replacing all the Pony / Jorgys on the wall by any stretch, but it'll be hard to pass by other cams that cross my path. That's all for now, thanks for looking!


I just got one myself.










I haven't had a chance to clean it up yet.


----------



## racerglen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cam Clamps, Anyone?*
> 
> It started with a blog whose author I can't recall, but the image of the clamps in use caught my eye and wouldn't be gone. They reminded me of the bench ducks offered by Veritas when I first saw them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... only not quite. These clamps tightened by a lever rather than a twist. Too cool, the bug bit, and I was on a mission. More searching of the interwebz lead to another blog discussion of weird clamps, and between that dialog and some OldTools talk I found the keyword: Cam. An image search of "cam clamp vintage" served up what I was seeking:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few days of searching on eBay (I told you the bug bit, but if you're reading this I don't have to explain) got me the goods: E.C. Stearns cam clamps! Nice pair, almost steel in feel. Good to have new blood in the shop family! Then I came across several "Case" cam clamps. These are cast iron -nice heft to them-and very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much else to say about them at present, but I do like cam action clamps. I won't be replacing all the Pony / Jorgys on the wall by any stretch, but it'll be hard to pass by other cams that cross my path. That's all for now, thanks for looking!


When I saw all the posts you'd made Smitty, thought for a moment you'd exploded..lol..neat clamps, have to keep an eye out for that type now.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cam Clamps, Anyone?*
> 
> It started with a blog whose author I can't recall, but the image of the clamps in use caught my eye and wouldn't be gone. They reminded me of the bench ducks offered by Veritas when I first saw them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... only not quite. These clamps tightened by a lever rather than a twist. Too cool, the bug bit, and I was on a mission. More searching of the interwebz lead to another blog discussion of weird clamps, and between that dialog and some OldTools talk I found the keyword: Cam. An image search of "cam clamp vintage" served up what I was seeking:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few days of searching on eBay (I told you the bug bit, but if you're reading this I don't have to explain) got me the goods: E.C. Stearns cam clamps! Nice pair, almost steel in feel. Good to have new blood in the shop family! Then I came across several "Case" cam clamps. These are cast iron -nice heft to them-and very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much else to say about them at present, but I do like cam action clamps. I won't be replacing all the Pony / Jorgys on the wall by any stretch, but it'll be hard to pass by other cams that cross my path. That's all for now, thanks for looking!


What kind is it, Don?


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cam Clamps, Anyone?*
> 
> It started with a blog whose author I can't recall, but the image of the clamps in use caught my eye and wouldn't be gone. They reminded me of the bench ducks offered by Veritas when I first saw them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... only not quite. These clamps tightened by a lever rather than a twist. Too cool, the bug bit, and I was on a mission. More searching of the interwebz lead to another blog discussion of weird clamps, and between that dialog and some OldTools talk I found the keyword: Cam. An image search of "cam clamp vintage" served up what I was seeking:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few days of searching on eBay (I told you the bug bit, but if you're reading this I don't have to explain) got me the goods: E.C. Stearns cam clamps! Nice pair, almost steel in feel. Good to have new blood in the shop family! Then I came across several "Case" cam clamps. These are cast iron -nice heft to them-and very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much else to say about them at present, but I do like cam action clamps. I won't be replacing all the Pony / Jorgys on the wall by any stretch, but it'll be hard to pass by other cams that cross my path. That's all for now, thanks for looking!


Good stuff, Smitty.
Looks like the value of camming clampys just went up.
LOL!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cam Clamps, Anyone?*
> 
> It started with a blog whose author I can't recall, but the image of the clamps in use caught my eye and wouldn't be gone. They reminded me of the bench ducks offered by Veritas when I first saw them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... only not quite. These clamps tightened by a lever rather than a twist. Too cool, the bug bit, and I was on a mission. More searching of the interwebz lead to another blog discussion of weird clamps, and between that dialog and some OldTools talk I found the keyword: Cam. An image search of "cam clamp vintage" served up what I was seeking:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few days of searching on eBay (I told you the bug bit, but if you're reading this I don't have to explain) got me the goods: E.C. Stearns cam clamps! Nice pair, almost steel in feel. Good to have new blood in the shop family! Then I came across several "Case" cam clamps. These are cast iron -nice heft to them-and very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much else to say about them at present, but I do like cam action clamps. I won't be replacing all the Pony / Jorgys on the wall by any stretch, but it'll be hard to pass by other cams that cross my path. That's all for now, thanks for looking!


Had a bunch of things in my head, Glen, so to LJs they went! Yeah, kind of a flurry but I'm only killing electrons here. 

-Can they be used with one hand… Haven't tried, maybe if theyr'e upside down?


----------



## TheFridge

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cam Clamps, Anyone?*
> 
> It started with a blog whose author I can't recall, but the image of the clamps in use caught my eye and wouldn't be gone. They reminded me of the bench ducks offered by Veritas when I first saw them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... only not quite. These clamps tightened by a lever rather than a twist. Too cool, the bug bit, and I was on a mission. More searching of the interwebz lead to another blog discussion of weird clamps, and between that dialog and some OldTools talk I found the keyword: Cam. An image search of "cam clamp vintage" served up what I was seeking:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few days of searching on eBay (I told you the bug bit, but if you're reading this I don't have to explain) got me the goods: E.C. Stearns cam clamps! Nice pair, almost steel in feel. Good to have new blood in the shop family! Then I came across several "Case" cam clamps. These are cast iron -nice heft to them-and very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much else to say about them at present, but I do like cam action clamps. I won't be replacing all the Pony / Jorgys on the wall by any stretch, but it'll be hard to pass by other cams that cross my path. That's all for now, thanks for looking!


Smitty, you've been a busy little monkey.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cam Clamps, Anyone?*
> 
> It started with a blog whose author I can't recall, but the image of the clamps in use caught my eye and wouldn't be gone. They reminded me of the bench ducks offered by Veritas when I first saw them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... only not quite. These clamps tightened by a lever rather than a twist. Too cool, the bug bit, and I was on a mission. More searching of the interwebz lead to another blog discussion of weird clamps, and between that dialog and some OldTools talk I found the keyword: Cam. An image search of "cam clamp vintage" served up what I was seeking:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few days of searching on eBay (I told you the bug bit, but if you're reading this I don't have to explain) got me the goods: E.C. Stearns cam clamps! Nice pair, almost steel in feel. Good to have new blood in the shop family! Then I came across several "Case" cam clamps. These are cast iron -nice heft to them-and very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much else to say about them at present, but I do like cam action clamps. I won't be replacing all the Pony / Jorgys on the wall by any stretch, but it'll be hard to pass by other cams that cross my path. That's all for now, thanks for looking!


I've been thinking of doing this same search. Love the idea. I'll get the Veritas version one day.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cam Clamps, Anyone?*
> 
> It started with a blog whose author I can't recall, but the image of the clamps in use caught my eye and wouldn't be gone. They reminded me of the bench ducks offered by Veritas when I first saw them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... only not quite. These clamps tightened by a lever rather than a twist. Too cool, the bug bit, and I was on a mission. More searching of the interwebz lead to another blog discussion of weird clamps, and between that dialog and some OldTools talk I found the keyword: Cam. An image search of "cam clamp vintage" served up what I was seeking:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few days of searching on eBay (I told you the bug bit, but if you're reading this I don't have to explain) got me the goods: E.C. Stearns cam clamps! Nice pair, almost steel in feel. Good to have new blood in the shop family! Then I came across several "Case" cam clamps. These are cast iron -nice heft to them-and very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much else to say about them at present, but I do like cam action clamps. I won't be replacing all the Pony / Jorgys on the wall by any stretch, but it'll be hard to pass by other cams that cross my path. That's all for now, thanks for looking!





> What kind is it, Don?
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


I'm not sure. The patent date is all I see (although I haven't had time to really clean it up and look) is all I see and it doesn't even look like a real patent date.


----------



## CharlieK

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cam Clamps, Anyone?*
> 
> It started with a blog whose author I can't recall, but the image of the clamps in use caught my eye and wouldn't be gone. They reminded me of the bench ducks offered by Veritas when I first saw them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... only not quite. These clamps tightened by a lever rather than a twist. Too cool, the bug bit, and I was on a mission. More searching of the interwebz lead to another blog discussion of weird clamps, and between that dialog and some OldTools talk I found the keyword: Cam. An image search of "cam clamp vintage" served up what I was seeking:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few days of searching on eBay (I told you the bug bit, but if you're reading this I don't have to explain) got me the goods: E.C. Stearns cam clamps! Nice pair, almost steel in feel. Good to have new blood in the shop family! Then I came across several "Case" cam clamps. These are cast iron -nice heft to them-and very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much else to say about them at present, but I do like cam action clamps. I won't be replacing all the Pony / Jorgys on the wall by any stretch, but it'll be hard to pass by other cams that cross my path. That's all for now, thanks for looking!


Cams are great!


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cam Clamps, Anyone?*
> 
> It started with a blog whose author I can't recall, but the image of the clamps in use caught my eye and wouldn't be gone. They reminded me of the bench ducks offered by Veritas when I first saw them…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... only not quite. These clamps tightened by a lever rather than a twist. Too cool, the bug bit, and I was on a mission. More searching of the interwebz lead to another blog discussion of weird clamps, and between that dialog and some OldTools talk I found the keyword: Cam. An image search of "cam clamp vintage" served up what I was seeking:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few days of searching on eBay (I told you the bug bit, but if you're reading this I don't have to explain) got me the goods: E.C. Stearns cam clamps! Nice pair, almost steel in feel. Good to have new blood in the shop family! Then I came across several "Case" cam clamps. These are cast iron -nice heft to them-and very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much else to say about them at present, but I do like cam action clamps. I won't be replacing all the Pony / Jorgys on the wall by any stretch, but it'll be hard to pass by other cams that cross my path. That's all for now, thanks for looking!


So much great stuff from the past.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Whatsit??*

The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


...?


----------



## RonAylor1760

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


Hmmm … no idea; BUT the handle is definitely quarter-sawn Albizia, grown of an easterly facing slope in partial shade and was fell in late September, for sure! LOL!!


----------



## JethroBodean

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


I'm pretty sure that is a saw set. And I think it just may be complete.

Take a look at this page, about a third of the way down.


----------



## Mosquito

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


I was thinking saw wrest as well


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


Holy cow!










That sure looks like it.


----------



## RonAylor1760

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


Can I change my answer?

*A Stillman Saw Set* (Patent 1848) … BUT the handle is definitely quarter-sawn Albizia, grown of an easterly facing slope in partial shade and was fell in late September, for sure! LOL!!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


Let the record show Ron's revised answer…

Cool little device that a friend gave me today. He found it in a house he was cleaning out. Consider it a tool saved from landfill. Thanks for the ID, Jeff!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


Sorry I'm late to the saw set party!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


But I brought beer!


----------



## DLK

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


Someday we should all get together and drink Don's beer!


----------



## RonAylor1760

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.





> Someday we should all get together and drink Don s beer!
> 
> - Combo Prof


Say half-way in Eqypt, Indiana?


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


Well, if I'm bringing the beer, somebody else is bringing the bourbon!!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


gotcha covered, Black Barrel Tequila too!

Smitty when will you have the in-use video ready?


----------



## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


That is cool Smitty. So do you put the tooth under the star shaped portion and the thumb screw on the end is to adjust the amount of set?

Edit: Is there a name and a patent date?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


Oh, it would be a wonderful event to have LJ buddies under one tent, drinking beer or tequila or bourbon… Good folks, and it would be good times.

Duck, yes, that is my understanding. The star wheel accommodates various plate thicknesses and the end thumbscrew bumps into the sawplate when you've gone too far (far enough?). The other thumbscrew adds kentucky windage to the star wheel's measure of thickness. And there's absolutely no hint of name or patent date on my example.

I can make Indiana, no problem.


----------



## Boatman53

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Whatsit??*
> 
> The title says it all: what is this thing? Obviously not complete, but appears factory made.


I'm just about ready for a road trip.
Nice save Smitty.
Jim


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *

I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).

Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:










Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:










Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


----------



## DLK

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Thanks for the link and what will be your build. I too need to do this for small parts.
So what slotted screw assortment do you keep?


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Looking forward to it Smitty. Have you already got a poster of a buxom wench for the inside of the door, or are you still searching? LOL.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


I like the idea Smitty and harshest is a fine example. Now I know what to do with this


----------



## DLK

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


If it were me I would leave the door off. It will just get in the way and the draw fronts are enough to keep the dust off. If of course you are moving it from say job site to job site, the yes it needs a door and latch.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Hoping you'll take a picture in drag, Andy, and send it my way?

and…

Good point, Don!

As far as slotted screws, I'll have to post a picture of my current solution. But slotted wood screws are definitely keepers. Don't know how I've accumulated as many as I have, but it is what it is.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


No door no pinup!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Another good point. Don, looks like the door stays.


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Be careful what you wish for Smitty )


----------



## HokieKen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.





> Hoping you ll take a picture in drag, Andy, and send it my way?
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Just google "Brit in drag". I'm sure there's a ton of image results! ;-p


----------



## RonAylor1760

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Oh my yes … this is now on my to-do list … sure beats a blue Dollar Store ice tray!


----------



## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Looking forward to it Smitty. I, for one, like the printing on the crate. Is there some way you can preserve it and maybe even feature it?


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


This'll be fun. +1 Hashest's is a fine example.

Andy in drag smut cabinet.

Thanks Smitty.


----------



## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.





> Hoping you ll take a picture in drag, Andy, and send it my way?
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop
> 
> Just google "Brit in drag". I m sure there s a ton of image results! ;-p
> 
> - HokieKen


Do NOT, I repeat, Do NOT do this.

RuPaul's 2015 Winner, The Vivienne;


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Smitty - Sorry that everyone seems more interested in seeing me in drag than talking about your nail cabinet. Never meant for that to happen.


----------



## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Yeah, sorry about that Smitty.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Duck, I'm not painting the cabinet so the crate features will remain visible for sure. And thanks for the advice on googling Brit in Drag, it will be followed.

You've got a drill press to finish, Ron… Stay the course before letting other shiny objects distract you! 

EDIT: You think it's a bad thing, imagining Brit in Drag? Oh, yeah, I see what you mean now. Nevermind…


----------



## RonAylor1760

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.





> You ve got a drill press to finish, Ron… Stay the course before letting other shiny objects distract you!
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


I will … almost done … have a side table, another prie-dieu, and a shaker music stand on the list before I can even think about this nail cabinet … but it's on the list!


----------



## DLK

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Andy it would be easy for you to fix the distraction.


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


I thought I had Don. )


----------



## Jeff2016

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Looks like a fun project, I can't wait to see how it turns out.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Installment soon.


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


That should give you enough time to sharpen the iron in that router plane Smitty. LOL.


----------



## DLK

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Looks like a stopped dado. How did you cut the side kerfs so that they did go all the way across?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Andy, there's a whole weekend of tools needing attention at the DMTs. Seriously.

Answers to that question and many more are found here, Don! (Next Installment has been Posted!)


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I Need a Nail (Screw) Cabinet *
> 
> I think it's time to build a nail (screw) cabinet to hold the assortment of old-stock slotted screws I use on projects. Yes, slotted screws. The best fasteners known to mankind… Anyway, this cabinet is inspired by Roy Underhill's example, written about in the Feb 2014 issue of Popular Woodworking (issue is available for free download, just search for it). Final push for the project was reading the project post by LJ "harshest" (a very fine example in SYP).
> 
> Quick and dirty, I want to turn this little California Prunes crate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Into something that resembles (in some small way) this nail cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doubt it'll be a long blog series, but there are a couple of things interesting about the build from a handtool perspective so it gets the series treatment. Thanks for looking.


Nice!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*

This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.










My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.



















So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.




























Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.










Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.










It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.

The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.

So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.



















And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…










And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.










Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.










I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…

So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Looks very good Smitty. Nice to see someone else using the 59, it is a handy lil' gadget!


----------



## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Will the box's log/painting be able to be seen in it's final resting place? Based on the pictures, that looks to be the top and bottom of the case? I kind of like that part of it…


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Awesome photos of beautiful vintage tools being used with skill and joy.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


I totally agree with keeping as much of the crate lettering visible as possible, Shane. Some of it will be obscured by the (necessary) framing, but it'll still be apparent the cabinet is made from an actual fruit crate.

Thanks, Kevin and Terry. The #59 was a bunch of fun, as was the #49 depth gauge to tell the truth. When it clicked down on the dowel gauge, the hole was complete. Pretty cool to see these tools working together again, the way they were made to be used.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Wonderful write up to accompany the wonderful craftsmanship on display.

Thank you.


----------



## 489tad

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


You are enjoying yourself. So cool


----------



## HeartlandTX

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Great work in an old style.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Excellent way to give new life to an old crate Smitty.


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Ohhh I love to see you working.
To look at the tools, the rythm, the wood, yes it makes me happy.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


The Holiday (and other distractions) has delayed work on the cabinet, but it's still at the front of the task list! Hopefully I'll have some progress to report soon. Thanks, everyone.


----------



## Tugboater78

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Lookin forward to the progress, i don't have a vintage crate to rehab, but been planning on making my own beraion of underhills nail cabinet.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Sorry Justin, it's been neglected for several weeks now. Driving me somewhat crazy, too. But I'll get there. Hardware has arrived, and I think the material for the drawer fronts is in hand. Hopefully before Christmas.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


I know, promises, promises!


----------



## terryR

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


I just hope I live long enough for my bench to gain that level of patina!

carry on,


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Thx Terry, I definitely appreciate what I have, and love coming to the shop. Especially now that the heater is up and running!










That beauty lets me make progress.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


It's coming along Smitty, nice.


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Looking wonderful.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Next installment: http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/98090#comment-3568802


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Forward Progress*
> 
> This cabinet is essentially a crate with wood-frame exoskeleton and hinged door. Dimensions were set because the crate is what it is… The depth of the cabinet was somewhat variable. My version sets the framing forward of the crate walls to define the opening depth for the door to be added, and also allows the cabinet to be mounted flush to the wall via 'hidden' French Cleat. A major component of the build was creating the wood frames for the top, bottom and sides. After ripping the 1x stock to suitable (and equal) width, it was planed a bit thinner for aesthetic reasons; 3/4" frames stood out too much from the crate, and looked out of proportion. That done, I decided on dowelled butt joints to hold the frames together at the corners, a first for me. Especially the way I chose to cut the dowel holes: via a Stanley #59 dowelling jig, brace, and bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Stanley #59 came in a box of 'what not' junk a long enough time ago that I don't remember getting it. The jig has only one of the seven (or so) tube sizes that shipped with it originally, so that's what I used (3/8") for the dowels. I drilled the holes via brace and No. 6 bit, and added a Stanley #49 depth stop gauge to the bit for consistency. Dowels were cut on the Stanley No. 150.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, for those of you who are counters, to place pairs of dowels in the frames required a total of 32 holes. Needless to say I'm pretty comfortable using the #59 / 6 / #49 combo of tools at this stage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two pairs of frames completed, it was time to explore ways the dividers would be incorporated. I decided at that point better access to the crate's interior sides would come by removing the bottom of the crate. That was done with a 5-in-1 painter's took and the nails saved for later re-install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, without too much difficulty, I stepped off equal interior height and width segments via dividers; this resulted in two columns of four drawers each. That'd be fine. Next, the partition material was located. This ended up being three pieces of poplar drawer side material from a busted up carcase of one kind or another that I keep on hand for situations just like this one. I didn't like the thickness of the stock, so the alien head planer was pulled into quick action. Some smoothing with the T13 #4 and everything was looking good. A few pencil marks approximately centered the three horizontal dividers to the marks made earlier, and from there I used several scores of the marking knife to create clean sides for the six dados to be completed. I finished them to depth via Stanley #271 router. Horizontal partitions were then cut the length. Here's an in-process picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to order the bin pulls at this point, as having those in-hand allows me to establish the set-back required to completely close the cabinet door when all is said and done. I ordered them on a Monday afternoon and continued with the vertical partition. And here again there was a decision to be made: do I match the vertical and horizontal pieces via 'egg crate divider,' or half-lap joints, or cut the vertical into pieces that in turn ride in dados of their own? I made six dados in pine; this would be eight more in poplar. It's either that, or 12 perfect cuts with a handsaw. While we ponder this choice, how about a diversion to my shop's Inspiration Piece for so many things: the Vintage Wall Cabinet (http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23904) that's been in my shop for five+ years now.
> 
> The cabinet is completely hand made, and one of the build details that catches my eye is the dado work of the cubbies. About a third of the interior space is divided into pigeon / cubby holes that I've since filled w/ various tools. Each dado has very crisp / clean side walls, and many times the amount of material remaining between opposing dado cuts is incredibly small.
> 
> So maybe the right choice for my tool cabinet is to replicate what the Inspiration Piece has, and that's a solid vertical and side dados. But then the article says to use the egg-crate divider method. Analysis paralysis set in, as the prevailing winds move to and fro between the alternatives. While I waited a week for the pulls and screws to arrive (I ain't paying for expedited shipping!), I even did a test cut of the egg-crate variety. Alrighty then, that's what I'll do! Top and bottom dados were cut using the same process as the sides were created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with those cuts made, a more complete preview of the finished cabinet comes together. Here's the horizontal partitions…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the vertical. Note this one has 1/4"overhang of divider, past the stopped dado. That's a detail I really like from Roy's original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and just for grins, the front edge of that vertical divider got a bit of roundover using the #45 and No. 12R.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> So a number of things move the forefront, re: build activities: Matching up the interior partitions for final placement, working the panel door; choosing stock for and building eight (8) drawers; and final carcase assembly. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Love the heater / fan juxtaposition. Class act.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*

Last time:

"I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…

That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.










The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.










Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.










I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.



















Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.



















Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'










Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!










Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


----------



## Tugboater78

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


I ordered those same pulls avoit 4 mo ago in anticipation


----------



## putty

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


That's gonna be nice Smitty.
Will you put some kind of finish on the carcass ?


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


What's planed for the labels?


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


The stopped dados was a good idea. I like the looks of it.


----------



## RonAylor1760

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Lookin' good!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Very happy with the pulls and the price of them from Lawless; they are my go-to place for hardware from this point. The plan is to hot-glue an example of each drawer's contents to a piece of card stock inserted in the pull slots.

Putty, I think the whole thing will get several applications of Howard's Feed n' Wax.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Such great reading/education material, thank you Smitty.

Will the pulls look as flashy / thickly painted as the example?

Seriously cool looking cabinet coming together Smitty.


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## SeaFarin

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Besides the great work with hand tools, I love that goose neck desk lamp you are using!
My parents inherited the same lamp from my grandparents and we used it on top of the piano back in the 60's when I had to take piano lessons! Wonder how old it is?


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## visualj

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Looks very cool. I am in the process of making one of my own.

One question I have is why you went with the library pulls? I have a nail cabinet my dad made and he just wrote on each drawer what was in there. In fact there are still blue tacks in the blue tacks drawer, and special screws in the special screws drawer.


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## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Thanks for the update and the hardware link Smitty. Nice prices on that site.
What screws are you going to use for the pulls?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


visual, I've decided to not write on the drawer fronts. Instead, I'll put a piece of card stock in the pull slot, then hot-glue an example of what's in the drawer to the front. I'm a visual guy.

Duck, I got screws from here (slotted, of course):

http://www.blacksmithbolt.com/store/c/125-12-Slotted-Flat-Head-Wood-Screws.aspx

And they'll be some of the contents of the cabinet when it's done.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Pictures and deeper presentation to come, but I'm now re-thinking the plan to apply external framing to this crate… I like it the way it is, nice and simple! Question is, how to attach a door? And, is it rigid enough as-is? Finally, how best to mount it to the wall "sans crating?"


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Always lovely to see woodworking with no rocket involved.
Just hands and wood.
Thanks.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Drawer making underway. One down, fifteen more to go with this step.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Note For File: Gang cutting thin stock yields more control / better results.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Half way. Time for a break.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Nice DT's Smitty and nice spalted maple piece!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!






























Good day of progress.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Smitty, are those pear shaped globes fire grenades?

Oh yea, and the progress pics are awesome.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


^Very awesome.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Yes Kevin, those are fire bombs. Or, more clearly, put-the-fire-out bombs. Brand name of some of them is Red Comet, and I seem to have a mini-collection of them with various holders.

New blog posted with pics, thanks!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Internals Done!*
> 
> Last time:
> 
> "I'll talk about setting that reference point for stopped dados in the next installment…
> 
> That's simple. The stopped dados are set to allow clearance for the hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer. I got that hardware in from D. Lawless in Olney, Illinois.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The depth of that pull set the depth of the drawer fronts. The #198 set the line, and a little chisel work extended the dado to a consistent setback from the front of the soon-to-be cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the center bar was set all proper and final, I had a decision to make. Last time I was set on joining the dividers via egg-crate overlaps. Well, I changed my mind and opted instead to create more stopped dados in the vertical piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I helped the #272 router plane along with the flat chisel cut, btw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once those were done, I inserted each partition and marked them for notches that were then cut with the gents dovetail saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some glue was applied before all was assembled and made ready for 'next steps.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to replace the back panel and button up this inside carcase!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we might apply the external framework, or complete the panel door, or build drawers. More to come, and thanks for looking!


Oh, here's the link to the next installment.

http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/109305


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Block Plane with a Fence?. Yup.*

NOTE: This is a recap of several posts made to the Epic Thread back in November 2016 that I've just now decided should be it's own blog post. Just because.

So, here we go.

I've had this customized #120 for a long time now (Aug 2013), just gave it a re-look tonight. Always liked the custom cap, appreciated the careful shaping along with the smart adjuster / set screw. Pics don't really do the plane justice, but the user-made cap is serious workmanship. It's done right, very symetrical, and incredibly effective. There's a machine bolt threaded through the hardwood (maple maybe?) cap used to tighten everything up. So the tool deserves respect in that regard - it's a survivor! Also noticed the two holes tapped on the plane's left side. Well, I found machine screws to fit tonight and decided to make a fence for the plane.




























With the fence attached and glued, up we'll see when it's done if the fence is square to the sole of the plane or if adjustments with a bit a smoothing are needed. A fenced block plane is kinda unusual to my mind. I have a Stanley #386 jointer fence but never use it. We'll see if this one stays on a #120.

A bit of shaping with the TFWW toolmaker's rasp, then oil:










And it works good!










Fence wraps under the sole, and adusting iron gets a square edge. Interesting. This might be a permanent tool tote resident.










That's all, thanks for looking.


----------



## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Block Plane with a Fence?. Yup.*
> 
> NOTE: This is a recap of several posts made to the Epic Thread back in November 2016 that I've just now decided should be it's own blog post. Just because.
> 
> So, here we go.
> 
> I've had this customized #120 for a long time now (Aug 2013), just gave it a re-look tonight. Always liked the custom cap, appreciated the careful shaping along with the smart adjuster / set screw. Pics don't really do the plane justice, but the user-made cap is serious workmanship. It's done right, very symetrical, and incredibly effective. There's a machine bolt threaded through the hardwood (maple maybe?) cap used to tighten everything up. So the tool deserves respect in that regard - it's a survivor! Also noticed the two holes tapped on the plane's left side. Well, I found machine screws to fit tonight and decided to make a fence for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the fence attached and glued, up we'll see when it's done if the fence is square to the sole of the plane or if adjustments with a bit a smoothing are needed. A fenced block plane is kinda unusual to my mind. I have a Stanley #386 jointer fence but never use it. We'll see if this one stays on a #120.
> 
> A bit of shaping with the TFWW toolmaker's rasp, then oil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it works good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fence wraps under the sole, and adusting iron gets a square edge. Interesting. This might be a permanent tool tote resident.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all, thanks for looking.


I have a #386 fence also that I've used twice. Found it somewhat cumbersome. Very nice creation on that one Smitty. Let us know how it works in the long run.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Block Plane with a Fence?. Yup.*
> 
> NOTE: This is a recap of several posts made to the Epic Thread back in November 2016 that I've just now decided should be it's own blog post. Just because.
> 
> So, here we go.
> 
> I've had this customized #120 for a long time now (Aug 2013), just gave it a re-look tonight. Always liked the custom cap, appreciated the careful shaping along with the smart adjuster / set screw. Pics don't really do the plane justice, but the user-made cap is serious workmanship. It's done right, very symetrical, and incredibly effective. There's a machine bolt threaded through the hardwood (maple maybe?) cap used to tighten everything up. So the tool deserves respect in that regard - it's a survivor! Also noticed the two holes tapped on the plane's left side. Well, I found machine screws to fit tonight and decided to make a fence for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the fence attached and glued, up we'll see when it's done if the fence is square to the sole of the plane or if adjustments with a bit a smoothing are needed. A fenced block plane is kinda unusual to my mind. I have a Stanley #386 jointer fence but never use it. We'll see if this one stays on a #120.
> 
> A bit of shaping with the TFWW toolmaker's rasp, then oil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it works good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fence wraps under the sole, and adusting iron gets a square edge. Interesting. This might be a permanent tool tote resident.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all, thanks for looking.


And I know at least one craftsman, Kevin, that uses his fence and loves it. I'm with you though.

I will, Duck.

If these tools could talk, we might learn if the lever cap on this #120 got lost, or if it broke, or if the owner simply hated it and built a better replacement. And we might learn why he felt the need to put a fence on a block plane in the first place; it's not typical. Especially on a tool that's not very good in the first place, when compared to other blocks in the Stanley lineup.

All that means, I have a jointer, and habit's that don't lead me to want a fenced block. But I'll see if it's ever something that I reach for. I think the plane is complete in the way it was modified, just don't know if it's practical for me. Will keep you updated (yeah, long answer, right?)


----------



## Timbo

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Block Plane with a Fence?. Yup.*
> 
> NOTE: This is a recap of several posts made to the Epic Thread back in November 2016 that I've just now decided should be it's own blog post. Just because.
> 
> So, here we go.
> 
> I've had this customized #120 for a long time now (Aug 2013), just gave it a re-look tonight. Always liked the custom cap, appreciated the careful shaping along with the smart adjuster / set screw. Pics don't really do the plane justice, but the user-made cap is serious workmanship. It's done right, very symetrical, and incredibly effective. There's a machine bolt threaded through the hardwood (maple maybe?) cap used to tighten everything up. So the tool deserves respect in that regard - it's a survivor! Also noticed the two holes tapped on the plane's left side. Well, I found machine screws to fit tonight and decided to make a fence for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the fence attached and glued, up we'll see when it's done if the fence is square to the sole of the plane or if adjustments with a bit a smoothing are needed. A fenced block plane is kinda unusual to my mind. I have a Stanley #386 jointer fence but never use it. We'll see if this one stays on a #120.
> 
> A bit of shaping with the TFWW toolmaker's rasp, then oil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it works good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fence wraps under the sole, and adusting iron gets a square edge. Interesting. This might be a permanent tool tote resident.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all, thanks for looking.


Nice, a Stanley edge plane equivalent (No.95 I think), being Left handed I may follow your lead.

I have the MF jointer fence mounted on a transitional and will use it on longer stock.

Also wanted to make sides for a block that will adjust up and down to accurately dimension small stock.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Block Plane with a Fence?. Yup.*
> 
> NOTE: This is a recap of several posts made to the Epic Thread back in November 2016 that I've just now decided should be it's own blog post. Just because.
> 
> So, here we go.
> 
> I've had this customized #120 for a long time now (Aug 2013), just gave it a re-look tonight. Always liked the custom cap, appreciated the careful shaping along with the smart adjuster / set screw. Pics don't really do the plane justice, but the user-made cap is serious workmanship. It's done right, very symetrical, and incredibly effective. There's a machine bolt threaded through the hardwood (maple maybe?) cap used to tighten everything up. So the tool deserves respect in that regard - it's a survivor! Also noticed the two holes tapped on the plane's left side. Well, I found machine screws to fit tonight and decided to make a fence for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the fence attached and glued, up we'll see when it's done if the fence is square to the sole of the plane or if adjustments with a bit a smoothing are needed. A fenced block plane is kinda unusual to my mind. I have a Stanley #386 jointer fence but never use it. We'll see if this one stays on a #120.
> 
> A bit of shaping with the TFWW toolmaker's rasp, then oil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it works good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fence wraps under the sole, and adusting iron gets a square edge. Interesting. This might be a permanent tool tote resident.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all, thanks for looking.


Nice tool Smitty. How do you like the rasp?

If anyone wants to temporarily loan out the 386 I'd like to try it. Mine is an EC Stearns and the think the 386 is slightly larger. I'll pay shipping both ways. Also looking to try a MF 88.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Block Plane with a Fence?. Yup.*
> 
> NOTE: This is a recap of several posts made to the Epic Thread back in November 2016 that I've just now decided should be it's own blog post. Just because.
> 
> So, here we go.
> 
> I've had this customized #120 for a long time now (Aug 2013), just gave it a re-look tonight. Always liked the custom cap, appreciated the careful shaping along with the smart adjuster / set screw. Pics don't really do the plane justice, but the user-made cap is serious workmanship. It's done right, very symetrical, and incredibly effective. There's a machine bolt threaded through the hardwood (maple maybe?) cap used to tighten everything up. So the tool deserves respect in that regard - it's a survivor! Also noticed the two holes tapped on the plane's left side. Well, I found machine screws to fit tonight and decided to make a fence for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the fence attached and glued, up we'll see when it's done if the fence is square to the sole of the plane or if adjustments with a bit a smoothing are needed. A fenced block plane is kinda unusual to my mind. I have a Stanley #386 jointer fence but never use it. We'll see if this one stays on a #120.
> 
> A bit of shaping with the TFWW toolmaker's rasp, then oil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it works good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fence wraps under the sole, and adusting iron gets a square edge. Interesting. This might be a permanent tool tote resident.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all, thanks for looking.


Oh I love that rasp. Had it awhile now, definitely a keeper. Let's im about the fence…

Tim, if it gives you an idea for a tool you can use, it was certainly worth posting. Hope it works!


----------



## shipwright

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Block Plane with a Fence?. Yup.*
> 
> NOTE: This is a recap of several posts made to the Epic Thread back in November 2016 that I've just now decided should be it's own blog post. Just because.
> 
> So, here we go.
> 
> I've had this customized #120 for a long time now (Aug 2013), just gave it a re-look tonight. Always liked the custom cap, appreciated the careful shaping along with the smart adjuster / set screw. Pics don't really do the plane justice, but the user-made cap is serious workmanship. It's done right, very symetrical, and incredibly effective. There's a machine bolt threaded through the hardwood (maple maybe?) cap used to tighten everything up. So the tool deserves respect in that regard - it's a survivor! Also noticed the two holes tapped on the plane's left side. Well, I found machine screws to fit tonight and decided to make a fence for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the fence attached and glued, up we'll see when it's done if the fence is square to the sole of the plane or if adjustments with a bit a smoothing are needed. A fenced block plane is kinda unusual to my mind. I have a Stanley #386 jointer fence but never use it. We'll see if this one stays on a #120.
> 
> A bit of shaping with the TFWW toolmaker's rasp, then oil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it works good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fence wraps under the sole, and adusting iron gets a square edge. Interesting. This might be a permanent tool tote resident.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all, thanks for looking.


Nice one Smitty.
..... and I have to tell you that I love your signature line. I laugh every time I see it. I've even been known to give it out as advice to other people …... truly words of wisdom …. nobody needs their hand planes pissed off at them ..


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Block Plane with a Fence?. Yup.*
> 
> NOTE: This is a recap of several posts made to the Epic Thread back in November 2016 that I've just now decided should be it's own blog post. Just because.
> 
> So, here we go.
> 
> I've had this customized #120 for a long time now (Aug 2013), just gave it a re-look tonight. Always liked the custom cap, appreciated the careful shaping along with the smart adjuster / set screw. Pics don't really do the plane justice, but the user-made cap is serious workmanship. It's done right, very symetrical, and incredibly effective. There's a machine bolt threaded through the hardwood (maple maybe?) cap used to tighten everything up. So the tool deserves respect in that regard - it's a survivor! Also noticed the two holes tapped on the plane's left side. Well, I found machine screws to fit tonight and decided to make a fence for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the fence attached and glued, up we'll see when it's done if the fence is square to the sole of the plane or if adjustments with a bit a smoothing are needed. A fenced block plane is kinda unusual to my mind. I have a Stanley #386 jointer fence but never use it. We'll see if this one stays on a #120.
> 
> A bit of shaping with the TFWW toolmaker's rasp, then oil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it works good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fence wraps under the sole, and adusting iron gets a square edge. Interesting. This might be a permanent tool tote resident.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all, thanks for looking.


Glad it entertains anyone besides me, Paul.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Block Plane with a Fence?. Yup.*
> 
> NOTE: This is a recap of several posts made to the Epic Thread back in November 2016 that I've just now decided should be it's own blog post. Just because.
> 
> So, here we go.
> 
> I've had this customized #120 for a long time now (Aug 2013), just gave it a re-look tonight. Always liked the custom cap, appreciated the careful shaping along with the smart adjuster / set screw. Pics don't really do the plane justice, but the user-made cap is serious workmanship. It's done right, very symetrical, and incredibly effective. There's a machine bolt threaded through the hardwood (maple maybe?) cap used to tighten everything up. So the tool deserves respect in that regard - it's a survivor! Also noticed the two holes tapped on the plane's left side. Well, I found machine screws to fit tonight and decided to make a fence for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the fence attached and glued, up we'll see when it's done if the fence is square to the sole of the plane or if adjustments with a bit a smoothing are needed. A fenced block plane is kinda unusual to my mind. I have a Stanley #386 jointer fence but never use it. We'll see if this one stays on a #120.
> 
> A bit of shaping with the TFWW toolmaker's rasp, then oil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it works good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fence wraps under the sole, and adusting iron gets a square edge. Interesting. This might be a permanent tool tote resident.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all, thanks for looking.


Interesting Smitty. I'll be curious if it finds a niche for itself in your work.


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Block Plane with a Fence?. Yup.*
> 
> NOTE: This is a recap of several posts made to the Epic Thread back in November 2016 that I've just now decided should be it's own blog post. Just because.
> 
> So, here we go.
> 
> I've had this customized #120 for a long time now (Aug 2013), just gave it a re-look tonight. Always liked the custom cap, appreciated the careful shaping along with the smart adjuster / set screw. Pics don't really do the plane justice, but the user-made cap is serious workmanship. It's done right, very symetrical, and incredibly effective. There's a machine bolt threaded through the hardwood (maple maybe?) cap used to tighten everything up. So the tool deserves respect in that regard - it's a survivor! Also noticed the two holes tapped on the plane's left side. Well, I found machine screws to fit tonight and decided to make a fence for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the fence attached and glued, up we'll see when it's done if the fence is square to the sole of the plane or if adjustments with a bit a smoothing are needed. A fenced block plane is kinda unusual to my mind. I have a Stanley #386 jointer fence but never use it. We'll see if this one stays on a #120.
> 
> A bit of shaping with the TFWW toolmaker's rasp, then oil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it works good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fence wraps under the sole, and adusting iron gets a square edge. Interesting. This might be a permanent tool tote resident.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all, thanks for looking.


Sweet.
Lovely little plane.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Repairing Sliding Tambour*

We've had this Sellers brand hoosier cabinet for many, many years but there's no room for it in the house anymore. One issue that needed attention was the rolling tambor door; it was in four pieces. The challenge has always been finding a way to repair tambor that is fixed in place / not removable.

The first step was finding suitable tambor door material. The interwebz calls it canvas or duck canvas, so I will too. Fortunately, I kept some canvas from an old printer cover and had it in the rags drawer in the shop. It was cut up into a couple of strips long enough to span the range of individual tambors to be joined by fabric. Here's a pic of the new stuff in the same frame as the original.










The first step in this repair process was joining a single tambor to a three-piece set. That was easy enough in that each of those strips could be slanted in the track and removed / replaced without issue (so there are no pictures). I applied a general coating of wood glue to the fabric and pressed each side together with cauls; from there I was down to three pieces.

Next step was joining the four-tambor piece to the lower, handled section of tambor that could not be removed from the cabinet. For this one, I slathered on glue and used the same cauls with a pair of 3" Pony hand clamps to get the job done.



















And the bottom half is complete, with extra canvas ready to mate to the upper half of the sliding tambor.










So, down to two pieces but the challenge of joining them remains. Wasn't sure how to proceeed, but came up with a plan that should work: bits of dowel rod used as a type of spring pole clamp. I've seen these in online articles but couldn't re-find those now, so the name is likely wrong, but oh well. For the fix then, I cut a couple thin caul-like pieces that will press against the glued canvas which in turn are held in place by spring poles.

First, hold the bottom half where I want it with stop blocks.










Close up this gap:










Spring Pole / Clampy Thingy pics:



















So, did they work? I don't know, haven't glued it up yet. But… I'll be sure to let you know.

Thanks for looking!


----------



## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Repairing Sliding Tambour*
> 
> We've had this Sellers brand hoosier cabinet for many, many years but there's no room for it in the house anymore. One issue that needed attention was the rolling tambor door; it was in four pieces. The challenge has always been finding a way to repair tambor that is fixed in place / not removable.
> 
> The first step was finding suitable tambor door material. The interwebz calls it canvas or duck canvas, so I will too. Fortunately, I kept some canvas from an old printer cover and had it in the rags drawer in the shop. It was cut up into a couple of strips long enough to span the range of individual tambors to be joined by fabric. Here's a pic of the new stuff in the same frame as the original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first step in this repair process was joining a single tambor to a three-piece set. That was easy enough in that each of those strips could be slanted in the track and removed / replaced without issue (so there are no pictures). I applied a general coating of wood glue to the fabric and pressed each side together with cauls; from there I was down to three pieces.
> 
> Next step was joining the four-tambor piece to the lower, handled section of tambor that could not be removed from the cabinet. For this one, I slathered on glue and used the same cauls with a pair of 3" Pony hand clamps to get the job done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bottom half is complete, with extra canvas ready to mate to the upper half of the sliding tambor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, down to two pieces but the challenge of joining them remains. Wasn't sure how to proceeed, but came up with a plan that should work: bits of dowel rod used as a type of spring pole clamp. I've seen these in online articles but couldn't re-find those now, so the name is likely wrong, but oh well. For the fix then, I cut a couple thin caul-like pieces that will press against the glued canvas which in turn are held in place by spring poles.
> 
> First, hold the bottom half where I want it with stop blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up this gap:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spring Pole / Clampy Thingy pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, did they work? I don't know, haven't glued it up yet. But… I'll be sure to let you know.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


You and Mos, always leaving us in suspense. Lots of innovative thinking going on there Smitty. Great job (if it works) ;-)


----------



## 000

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Repairing Sliding Tambour*
> 
> We've had this Sellers brand hoosier cabinet for many, many years but there's no room for it in the house anymore. One issue that needed attention was the rolling tambor door; it was in four pieces. The challenge has always been finding a way to repair tambor that is fixed in place / not removable.
> 
> The first step was finding suitable tambor door material. The interwebz calls it canvas or duck canvas, so I will too. Fortunately, I kept some canvas from an old printer cover and had it in the rags drawer in the shop. It was cut up into a couple of strips long enough to span the range of individual tambors to be joined by fabric. Here's a pic of the new stuff in the same frame as the original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first step in this repair process was joining a single tambor to a three-piece set. That was easy enough in that each of those strips could be slanted in the track and removed / replaced without issue (so there are no pictures). I applied a general coating of wood glue to the fabric and pressed each side together with cauls; from there I was down to three pieces.
> 
> Next step was joining the four-tambor piece to the lower, handled section of tambor that could not be removed from the cabinet. For this one, I slathered on glue and used the same cauls with a pair of 3" Pony hand clamps to get the job done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bottom half is complete, with extra canvas ready to mate to the upper half of the sliding tambor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, down to two pieces but the challenge of joining them remains. Wasn't sure how to proceeed, but came up with a plan that should work: bits of dowel rod used as a type of spring pole clamp. I've seen these in online articles but couldn't re-find those now, so the name is likely wrong, but oh well. For the fix then, I cut a couple thin caul-like pieces that will press against the glued canvas which in turn are held in place by spring poles.
> 
> First, hold the bottom half where I want it with stop blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up this gap:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spring Pole / Clampy Thingy pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, did they work? I don't know, haven't glued it up yet. But… I'll be sure to let you know.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


I used to buy the canvas at the fabric store then contact cement a full piece to the back.
I don't know what your using for glue but the contact cement worked great for me.
Looks like you could put some cleats on that little shelf to hold up the back of the tambour
while you glue it.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Repairing Sliding Tambour*
> 
> We've had this Sellers brand hoosier cabinet for many, many years but there's no room for it in the house anymore. One issue that needed attention was the rolling tambor door; it was in four pieces. The challenge has always been finding a way to repair tambor that is fixed in place / not removable.
> 
> The first step was finding suitable tambor door material. The interwebz calls it canvas or duck canvas, so I will too. Fortunately, I kept some canvas from an old printer cover and had it in the rags drawer in the shop. It was cut up into a couple of strips long enough to span the range of individual tambors to be joined by fabric. Here's a pic of the new stuff in the same frame as the original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first step in this repair process was joining a single tambor to a three-piece set. That was easy enough in that each of those strips could be slanted in the track and removed / replaced without issue (so there are no pictures). I applied a general coating of wood glue to the fabric and pressed each side together with cauls; from there I was down to three pieces.
> 
> Next step was joining the four-tambor piece to the lower, handled section of tambor that could not be removed from the cabinet. For this one, I slathered on glue and used the same cauls with a pair of 3" Pony hand clamps to get the job done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bottom half is complete, with extra canvas ready to mate to the upper half of the sliding tambor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, down to two pieces but the challenge of joining them remains. Wasn't sure how to proceeed, but came up with a plan that should work: bits of dowel rod used as a type of spring pole clamp. I've seen these in online articles but couldn't re-find those now, so the name is likely wrong, but oh well. For the fix then, I cut a couple thin caul-like pieces that will press against the glued canvas which in turn are held in place by spring poles.
> 
> First, hold the bottom half where I want it with stop blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up this gap:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spring Pole / Clampy Thingy pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, did they work? I don't know, haven't glued it up yet. But… I'll be sure to let you know.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Fun stuff Smitty! Love the clampy thingy ingenuity particularly.

Thank you.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Repairing Sliding Tambour*
> 
> We've had this Sellers brand hoosier cabinet for many, many years but there's no room for it in the house anymore. One issue that needed attention was the rolling tambor door; it was in four pieces. The challenge has always been finding a way to repair tambor that is fixed in place / not removable.
> 
> The first step was finding suitable tambor door material. The interwebz calls it canvas or duck canvas, so I will too. Fortunately, I kept some canvas from an old printer cover and had it in the rags drawer in the shop. It was cut up into a couple of strips long enough to span the range of individual tambors to be joined by fabric. Here's a pic of the new stuff in the same frame as the original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first step in this repair process was joining a single tambor to a three-piece set. That was easy enough in that each of those strips could be slanted in the track and removed / replaced without issue (so there are no pictures). I applied a general coating of wood glue to the fabric and pressed each side together with cauls; from there I was down to three pieces.
> 
> Next step was joining the four-tambor piece to the lower, handled section of tambor that could not be removed from the cabinet. For this one, I slathered on glue and used the same cauls with a pair of 3" Pony hand clamps to get the job done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bottom half is complete, with extra canvas ready to mate to the upper half of the sliding tambor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, down to two pieces but the challenge of joining them remains. Wasn't sure how to proceeed, but came up with a plan that should work: bits of dowel rod used as a type of spring pole clamp. I've seen these in online articles but couldn't re-find those now, so the name is likely wrong, but oh well. For the fix then, I cut a couple thin caul-like pieces that will press against the glued canvas which in turn are held in place by spring poles.
> 
> First, hold the bottom half where I want it with stop blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up this gap:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spring Pole / Clampy Thingy pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, did they work? I don't know, haven't glued it up yet. But… I'll be sure to let you know.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Slick Smitty.


----------



## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Repairing Sliding Tambour*
> 
> We've had this Sellers brand hoosier cabinet for many, many years but there's no room for it in the house anymore. One issue that needed attention was the rolling tambor door; it was in four pieces. The challenge has always been finding a way to repair tambor that is fixed in place / not removable.
> 
> The first step was finding suitable tambor door material. The interwebz calls it canvas or duck canvas, so I will too. Fortunately, I kept some canvas from an old printer cover and had it in the rags drawer in the shop. It was cut up into a couple of strips long enough to span the range of individual tambors to be joined by fabric. Here's a pic of the new stuff in the same frame as the original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first step in this repair process was joining a single tambor to a three-piece set. That was easy enough in that each of those strips could be slanted in the track and removed / replaced without issue (so there are no pictures). I applied a general coating of wood glue to the fabric and pressed each side together with cauls; from there I was down to three pieces.
> 
> Next step was joining the four-tambor piece to the lower, handled section of tambor that could not be removed from the cabinet. For this one, I slathered on glue and used the same cauls with a pair of 3" Pony hand clamps to get the job done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bottom half is complete, with extra canvas ready to mate to the upper half of the sliding tambor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, down to two pieces but the challenge of joining them remains. Wasn't sure how to proceeed, but came up with a plan that should work: bits of dowel rod used as a type of spring pole clamp. I've seen these in online articles but couldn't re-find those now, so the name is likely wrong, but oh well. For the fix then, I cut a couple thin caul-like pieces that will press against the glued canvas which in turn are held in place by spring poles.
> 
> First, hold the bottom half where I want it with stop blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up this gap:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spring Pole / Clampy Thingy pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, did they work? I don't know, haven't glued it up yet. But… I'll be sure to let you know.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


...the Mother of Invention. ;-)

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Repairing Sliding Tambour*
> 
> We've had this Sellers brand hoosier cabinet for many, many years but there's no room for it in the house anymore. One issue that needed attention was the rolling tambor door; it was in four pieces. The challenge has always been finding a way to repair tambor that is fixed in place / not removable.
> 
> The first step was finding suitable tambor door material. The interwebz calls it canvas or duck canvas, so I will too. Fortunately, I kept some canvas from an old printer cover and had it in the rags drawer in the shop. It was cut up into a couple of strips long enough to span the range of individual tambors to be joined by fabric. Here's a pic of the new stuff in the same frame as the original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first step in this repair process was joining a single tambor to a three-piece set. That was easy enough in that each of those strips could be slanted in the track and removed / replaced without issue (so there are no pictures). I applied a general coating of wood glue to the fabric and pressed each side together with cauls; from there I was down to three pieces.
> 
> Next step was joining the four-tambor piece to the lower, handled section of tambor that could not be removed from the cabinet. For this one, I slathered on glue and used the same cauls with a pair of 3" Pony hand clamps to get the job done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bottom half is complete, with extra canvas ready to mate to the upper half of the sliding tambor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, down to two pieces but the challenge of joining them remains. Wasn't sure how to proceeed, but came up with a plan that should work: bits of dowel rod used as a type of spring pole clamp. I've seen these in online articles but couldn't re-find those now, so the name is likely wrong, but oh well. For the fix then, I cut a couple thin caul-like pieces that will press against the glued canvas which in turn are held in place by spring poles.
> 
> First, hold the bottom half where I want it with stop blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up this gap:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spring Pole / Clampy Thingy pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, did they work? I don't know, haven't glued it up yet. But… I'll be sure to let you know.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Okay, glued it up last night so we'll find out soon how suitable the repair has been. "Film at Eleven!"


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Repairing Sliding Tambour*
> 
> We've had this Sellers brand hoosier cabinet for many, many years but there's no room for it in the house anymore. One issue that needed attention was the rolling tambor door; it was in four pieces. The challenge has always been finding a way to repair tambor that is fixed in place / not removable.
> 
> The first step was finding suitable tambor door material. The interwebz calls it canvas or duck canvas, so I will too. Fortunately, I kept some canvas from an old printer cover and had it in the rags drawer in the shop. It was cut up into a couple of strips long enough to span the range of individual tambors to be joined by fabric. Here's a pic of the new stuff in the same frame as the original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first step in this repair process was joining a single tambor to a three-piece set. That was easy enough in that each of those strips could be slanted in the track and removed / replaced without issue (so there are no pictures). I applied a general coating of wood glue to the fabric and pressed each side together with cauls; from there I was down to three pieces.
> 
> Next step was joining the four-tambor piece to the lower, handled section of tambor that could not be removed from the cabinet. For this one, I slathered on glue and used the same cauls with a pair of 3" Pony hand clamps to get the job done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bottom half is complete, with extra canvas ready to mate to the upper half of the sliding tambor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, down to two pieces but the challenge of joining them remains. Wasn't sure how to proceeed, but came up with a plan that should work: bits of dowel rod used as a type of spring pole clamp. I've seen these in online articles but couldn't re-find those now, so the name is likely wrong, but oh well. For the fix then, I cut a couple thin caul-like pieces that will press against the glued canvas which in turn are held in place by spring poles.
> 
> First, hold the bottom half where I want it with stop blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up this gap:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spring Pole / Clampy Thingy pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, did they work? I don't know, haven't glued it up yet. But… I'll be sure to let you know.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Not a moving picture, but film nonetheless.










It worked! Tambour slides up and down, just like it should. And is staying in one piece, too. Now to repair a couple other things with the Hoosier before putting it up for sale.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Repairing Sliding Tambour*
> 
> We've had this Sellers brand hoosier cabinet for many, many years but there's no room for it in the house anymore. One issue that needed attention was the rolling tambor door; it was in four pieces. The challenge has always been finding a way to repair tambor that is fixed in place / not removable.
> 
> The first step was finding suitable tambor door material. The interwebz calls it canvas or duck canvas, so I will too. Fortunately, I kept some canvas from an old printer cover and had it in the rags drawer in the shop. It was cut up into a couple of strips long enough to span the range of individual tambors to be joined by fabric. Here's a pic of the new stuff in the same frame as the original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first step in this repair process was joining a single tambor to a three-piece set. That was easy enough in that each of those strips could be slanted in the track and removed / replaced without issue (so there are no pictures). I applied a general coating of wood glue to the fabric and pressed each side together with cauls; from there I was down to three pieces.
> 
> Next step was joining the four-tambor piece to the lower, handled section of tambor that could not be removed from the cabinet. For this one, I slathered on glue and used the same cauls with a pair of 3" Pony hand clamps to get the job done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bottom half is complete, with extra canvas ready to mate to the upper half of the sliding tambor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, down to two pieces but the challenge of joining them remains. Wasn't sure how to proceeed, but came up with a plan that should work: bits of dowel rod used as a type of spring pole clamp. I've seen these in online articles but couldn't re-find those now, so the name is likely wrong, but oh well. For the fix then, I cut a couple thin caul-like pieces that will press against the glued canvas which in turn are held in place by spring poles.
> 
> First, hold the bottom half where I want it with stop blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up this gap:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spring Pole / Clampy Thingy pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, did they work? I don't know, haven't glued it up yet. But… I'll be sure to let you know.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


You're a wizard.


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Repairing Sliding Tambour*
> 
> We've had this Sellers brand hoosier cabinet for many, many years but there's no room for it in the house anymore. One issue that needed attention was the rolling tambor door; it was in four pieces. The challenge has always been finding a way to repair tambor that is fixed in place / not removable.
> 
> The first step was finding suitable tambor door material. The interwebz calls it canvas or duck canvas, so I will too. Fortunately, I kept some canvas from an old printer cover and had it in the rags drawer in the shop. It was cut up into a couple of strips long enough to span the range of individual tambors to be joined by fabric. Here's a pic of the new stuff in the same frame as the original.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first step in this repair process was joining a single tambor to a three-piece set. That was easy enough in that each of those strips could be slanted in the track and removed / replaced without issue (so there are no pictures). I applied a general coating of wood glue to the fabric and pressed each side together with cauls; from there I was down to three pieces.
> 
> Next step was joining the four-tambor piece to the lower, handled section of tambor that could not be removed from the cabinet. For this one, I slathered on glue and used the same cauls with a pair of 3" Pony hand clamps to get the job done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bottom half is complete, with extra canvas ready to mate to the upper half of the sliding tambor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, down to two pieces but the challenge of joining them remains. Wasn't sure how to proceeed, but came up with a plan that should work: bits of dowel rod used as a type of spring pole clamp. I've seen these in online articles but couldn't re-find those now, so the name is likely wrong, but oh well. For the fix then, I cut a couple thin caul-like pieces that will press against the glued canvas which in turn are held in place by spring poles.
> 
> First, hold the bottom half where I want it with stop blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up this gap:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spring Pole / Clampy Thingy pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, did they work? I don't know, haven't glued it up yet. But… I'll be sure to let you know.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


I love those doors.
Fine work on the repair.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*

I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.

Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:










It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.

Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!










Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.










I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
*
========
UPDATE #1
========*

Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.










I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.










One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'










Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


I'm in. Which activity most often spurs your desire for a kerfing plane?


----------



## Mosquito

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


Cool, I look forward to watching it Smitty. I've been wanting one more and more myself. I've also been thinking about making one, as I do have a thread and tap set for 3/4" dowels, but haven't yet dialed it in to work well.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


I don't resaw often, but when I do it means losing a bunch of material to the wide cut made by my table saw. And I need to do that so my Craftsman bandsaw cuts straight. So, in a very hybrid way, if I could get a decent kerfing plane there's be improvement in resawing and I'd also be a step closer to hand-sawing altogether. If I wanted to. 

Sounds good, Mos. Here's to possibly providing something of value to you along your build path.


----------



## Mosquito

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


I've done something similar when resawing by hand, except I used the 1/8" cutter in a #45 to plane a groove that I followed. Similar amount of waste, though.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


Now this is worth the wait Smitty-san. In the words of Ross Perot, I'm all ears!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


Kerfing planes seem to be all the rage lately. Off to a great start.


----------



## WayneC

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


Looks like it will work fine. The path for the Luban 043 to the US seems to have dried up.


----------



## Slyy

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


Hope this build yields fruit for you Smitty, and fun for us as well.

Re Bandsaw tracking: I'd never really thought of the uses of a meeting saw. This certainly makes perfect sense.


----------



## TheFridge

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


Smitty. Just throwing this out there. Ignore me if necessary.

Ever thought about using a circular saw blade to make a kerf for resawing?

I know. Heresy  but just a thought.


----------



## FoundSheep

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


I'll be watching this one too, looks like a great project and something to learn with.



> The path for the Luban 043 to the US seems to have dried up. - WayneC


Is this confirmed? I heard it can be asked for through Woodcraft, but I haven't tried it myself.


----------



## WayneC

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


At least getting them directly from the UK. I was not aware Woodcraft would import them.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


Fridge, it's what I do currently. But for thinner donor stock it takes way too much material. Trying to optimize.

Edit: and on thin stuff is kinda dangerous without a ZCI


----------



## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


Very cool Smitty.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


See Update #1 above.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


Thank you.


----------



## WayneC

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


I picked up a broken saw blade at the flea market just in the event I decided to try to make/modify one.


----------



## Pjonesy

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


Looking forward to see this working again


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *It Might Be, It Could Be... A Kerfing Plane?*
> 
> I've been in love with the idea of having a kerfing plane for years at this point, but haven't gotten one yet. I started a build out of pecan but that stopped because I didn't have the taps for threading the rods. There were posts and activity on adapting a #55 multiplane for the job, but those planes are too expensive to be used as one trick ponies. Then a Facebook plane group talked about a buy of Chinese (or Indian? I don't recall) knock-offs of the Record line, to include a kerfing blade/cutter, but after sending in my contact info there was nothing more forthcoming on it.
> 
> Then, as I walked through rows of "antique decor and ideas" vendor displays at a local event, I spotted this beast:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was overpriced a bit, but complete in the right areas (tote, rods, fence). Maybe with the addition of a strip of saw blade (and I've got plenty of donors for that) it could become the kerfing plane of my dreams (KPOMD? Nah… anyway) and fill the resewing void I've experienced since, well, since whenever.
> 
> Well, the answer is still "maybe," as I've not done much beside disassembly and a bit of repair thus far. Big ole screws holding the fence, and they turned with a bit of elbow grease!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only the back portion of the center skate remained, and was removed pretty easily as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do some cleanup and light sanding of the whole thing and post more pics, but that's all the progress I've made on the tool. Will it get further attention, or land on the scrap heap of kerfing history (like my pecan-shaped plane of '15)? I don't know, we'll discover that together.
> *
> ========
> UPDATE #1
> ========*
> 
> Here's a close up pic of the fence's support strut after rebuild. You can see the remnants of a nail hole in the curved section that's now been glued up and smoothed out. Also re-cut the arched portion a bit (see the bandsaw marks that haven't been fully removed yet) because the fence shrank but strut didn't. There was an overhang of the strut between a 16th and an 8th that had to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had to adjust those struts for square, specifically the parts that touched the fence. Because after cleaning and re-assembly I had a fence that was anything but square to the sole of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the struts is a bit 'longer' than the other too, so the fence doesn't sit parallel to the sole 'depth wise.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those issues were addressed with a quick pass through at the table saw. Finally, there's work to do with the main body of the plane to close up the wood that's missing behind the tote.


Me too. Hope to have progress enough for a next installment soon.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*

When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.










After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.










That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.

What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!

First, kerf cuts at the table saw.



















Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.










Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).










Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.










The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.



















Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.










The 'results' pile.










I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.



















So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


That's gonna look killer Smitty! Resawing and a bunch of half blinds in a day is solid progress for sure.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Wonderful blog and beautiful results.

Thank you Smitty.


----------



## GrandpaLen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


*...go 4th and make drawers.*

Looking good Smitty.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Thanks fellas, will 'endeavor to persevere.'  Yesterday was a good day, but a bunch of things to tackle before I get to the fun part of applying pulls and hanging it on the wall!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


I would assume the drawers will be sub divided? Maybe even two layers by way of trays? It does look really good.


----------



## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Whoa, that is looking nice? Old Fart has good wood still, lol…couldn't resist.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Surprised you noticed Shane!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!





> I would assume the drawers will be sub divided? Maybe even two layers by way of trays? It does look really good.
> 
> - theoldfart


Just thinking of this -given the amount of work already needed to make each drawer, period- gives me a headache. The drawers are actually quite small already, something not apparent looking at the pics. Dividers would be great, sliders too, but would the added build complexity pay off in light of the hours it'd take?

Shane, OF's wood speaks for itself, I have nothing to add.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


I'm actually very good at dreaming up work for everyone, except me of course! I didn't quite grasp the scale, went back and looked, I see what you mean. Carry on.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


That's going to be beautiful Smitty. I love the spalted maple and it's a gift from a friend. I have a question for you: Did you have any areas of "punkiness" that worried you structurally? I ask because I have a good bit of the stuff that looks great but I worry it is just too punky, too spongy, too far gone.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


In a word, Yo, yes. There was quite a bit of punky wood in the piece as I was resewing it. The good news is, most of it was addressed (re: removed) at that time. There are bits left, and that also entered into the thought process for half blinds vs. butts vs. rabbet joints for the drawer sides.

I've done four drawers via half blinds, or eight sides with three tails each for twenty four recesses in the maple. There have been two blowouts of punk that had to be glued back in after the chiseling was done.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


I don't know if I dreamt it, read it somewhere, or actually had an original thought, but I have considered soaking the punky wood with superglue prior to processing. However, I am just not sure what this would do to blade edges. It may or may not be a good idea.


----------



## FoundSheep

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Looking very fine Smitty, the contrasts between all the woods is great.


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Fantastic wood, really love the front.
Fine work there, plenty of repetition, skills will grow and grow.
Big smile,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Yep, it took six months to get back to this project. One-and-a-half drawer fronts done tonight, two and one half remaining before fitting, and bottoms, and hardware. At least I'm back in the shop, which is nice. It's been a while.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


If you've got time, the Minwax High Performance Wood Hardener is pretty good for firming up punky wood. It's designed mostly for old rotted wood, but I've used it on spalted wood too. You just need to "paint" it on multiple times letting it dry between coats. When it stops soaking in, you're done.

At some point I'll probably set up a vacuum system with cactus juice and will be able to compare that to the wood hardener for results for stabilizing punky wood, but for now, I've been happy with the results. Doing to drawer fronts from the "inside" would probably firm things up enough that you won't have any further blow-out problems.


----------



## RonAylor1760

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Totally missed this one … I was in England in July. WOW … nice work!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


You're aware that without pictures, you simply talked about getting back to this project.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Yes, but it's also true that the taking of pictures is looking back. See pic in the OP for that. Last night was about chisels and wood.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


How very Ram Dass of you.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Maybe it's something new for 2018. ;-)


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


You don't come off as one to utilize the turn of the year to facilitate fresh alignment. A conscious present mindful navigation is more likely but assume any disguise you wish, I'll try to play along.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Okayfine. Picture or two next time, I promise.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Excellent! Love me some pictures. Thanks!

Glad you got back into the shop.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Lay out the tools of the trade (half blind dovetails for drawer fronts)










Pieces move to all kinds of positions on the bench as waste is (carefully) removed










Five more individual sides to go (out of 16 total)


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Thank you very much!! Love the scene.

Those drawer fronts are so beautiful!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


It's clear there's gonna be way too much labor in this cabinet than warranted.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Look if your gonna' complain about it, give the damn wood back! 

You'll have it for years and then your kids will have it for years so on an annual average not so much labor.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Totally worth it from here, I'm not even tired yet.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!





> Look if you're gonna complain about it, give the damn wood back; when the project is done, of course.
> 
> - theoldfart


There, that's what you meant to say. Oh, and… Request Denied.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Damn, I really like the cabinet.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Phew!










Now to come up with a bottoms solution.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Good progress Smitty


----------



## RonAylor1760

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


I'm with Kevin … I really like this!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Those nails are going to have a gorgeous home!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


For bottoms material, collected a drawer bottom salvaged from a dresser-type piece that was way beyond saving. Good, straight stock.










Measured approx. width needed, did a couple rips on the table saw.










Now to thin them down at the Alien Head.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Where does the hose nozzle come into play?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


I posted that pic and said, "I'm going to guess Tony (of anyone) is most likely going to ask about that!"

Shop has some clutter, things get carried from one place to another and wherever they get placed, they tend to stay for awhile… Wished I had a better (re: more entertaining) answer.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


So you're saying it's used to raise the grain before you begin the stock preparation…. got it.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Bottom stock on hand. Dado'ing drawer sides is next.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Dado cuts via table saw.


----------



## RonAylor1760

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


If you are not going to give it to Kevin … may I have it? Thanks in advance.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Excellent progress. Thank you for the photos. The table saw shot is particularly cool.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Took the first bottom piece milled earlier this week and beveled end and edges.




























Measuring bottom










With the bottom cut little long, measured sides for cutting.










Cutting sides at the DeWalt RAS.










And it seems to fit!










First pair looking good, I think.



















Where we'll leave things for now.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


It's looking very good. I'd be very happy to have a nail cabinet like that in my shop.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Thanks guys. It's getting there!~


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Was it that well planned that the knot was avoided when cutting the side to length?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Both of them, yep!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Dados on a table saw? Loss of one Galloot point. Hand cut half blind in punky stock, add two points for a net gain of one!

Looks good Smitty.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Forethought of chess maneuvers ilk.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Kevin, re: table saw dado cutting on these drawers…

- They're 3/16" wide and maybe that deep, 1/2" from the bottom of the stock and on material that's 1/2" thick and 4" wide. Maybe a small Record plane would do that, because my #46 and #45 planes are unwieldy at those scales

- Hard to support stock for that operation while accommodating clearances for fence and main body of plane; my work holding is not suited to working miniatures like this and I don't know that I care to address it at this juncture

- No tear out or issues cutting through knots w/ table saw

Left drudgery of 16 repeatable operations to the machines, where such drudgery belongs, so I could get back to planing and chiseling, fitting and fettling. That's my story, and I'm sticking with it.

Took the weekend off to ski (awesome time!), maybe some more drawer work this week.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


OK, point taken, let the tailed apprentice do the heavy lifting.

Skiing is an honorable past time, i think we've skied something like six out of the past ten days! Oh and going again tomorrow. First week in Feb up to the Chic Chocs in the Gaspe' in Canada.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!





> OK, point taken, let the tailed apprentice do the heavy lifting.
> 
> - theoldfart


Ouch.

I clearly need to be more careful with my Buddy choices.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


HeHe! Today is contrary day. The shop is in disarray, haven't been able to work in there for a month and a half. Just showing my jealousy.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Progress.



















Now to work drawer backs before final glue up and fitting. Then onto hardware and this mighty beast gets a fork stuck in him!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


It looks so cool. What type of pulls will you be using?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Thanks Tony!

The hardware (pulls) to be mounted to the fronts of each drawer.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Nice.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Hey Kevin! Sorry to hear about your skiing incident! Take it easy, okay??


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Thanks Smitty. Maybe you could do some more and post pics, no shop time for the foreseeable future for me.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


I have a week of meetings coming up, so my shop time is limited. The drawers on this piece getting real close!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


Added a pic of the chunk of wood that became the drawer fronts, in the text of the OP above.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


It looks so unassuming in that context.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


I had forgotten all about that picture, found it on the Epic Thread, trying to research when a plane showed up in the shop. Weird how things like that evolve.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


An update is in the works.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Drawer Fronts vs Drawers*
> 
> When we left off (last December!), the internal dividers had been set on this piece and I was debating adding the external framing that's been completed for some time. Before getting into that discussion, I'll pass along this update: A fellow LJ (OldFart) gifted me a block of spalted maple probably 2+ years ago that I've been holding onto for the right project. Good News, this is the project. Here's the block, on the far end of the bench, back in Nov 2014.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some resewing and fiddling about, Drawer Fronts came from the maple chunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was in February and that's how the cabinet (?) remained until the 4th of July holiday.
> 
> What happened that brought the piece back to working status? In a word: Material. Specifically, I came across eight short (identical) pieces of pine that led to a eureka moment… they were long enough, wide enough, and when resawn would result in sixteen drawer side blanks. Perfect for eight drawers, right? Okay, game on!
> 
> First, kerf cuts at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a pass for each board at the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smooth away the center waste with the venerable Stanley #4 (a workout in my uncooled shop in July!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a check to confirm the fronts were beefy enough to support half blind dovetails to attach sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides aren't perfect matches for thickness, despite my best guess at setting the fence on the table saw. No biggie, that just means marking them to fronts to ensure depth of half blinds matches each piece of side stock. All the boards were dovetailed as a single step, and gang cutting two at a time was definitely the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the layout for the tails is done freehand by tracing both sides of a chisel in three places on the boards' ends. Angled cuts are whatever comes of the saw. I've shown pics of the process in previous blogs (that are likely useless now thanks to PHOTO 'CHUM' BUCKET, but that's another story). Meanwhile, here are all the tools used for dovetailing, all laid out on the benchtop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'results' pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mentioned at least a few times that this kind of drawer making is one of my fave woodworking activities and it's still true. Doing small half blinds in somewhat punky, spalted maple is it's own kind of special activity. That said, things are about half way now on putting sides to front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the tasks remaining to complete drawers are apparent: four more fronts, then figure out what do do for bottoms and backs, make work that results in eight sliding drawers of the proper depth and overall fit. Gee, wonder if that will take another six months?  Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!


That shot demonstrates how beautiful the drawer front wood is, I like the pulls. Thanks Smitty!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Shapleigh Ephemera*

As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.










It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.










First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.










Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...










and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.










Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.

That's it, thanks for looking!


----------



## CFrye

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Nice save, Smitty! Maybe put a print of the building behind the glass? Like this one from WK Fine Tools web page?


----------



## robscastle

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


OK Smitty some very good restoration work done there, 
I have an idea for ssomething else how about you tell me a mailing address so I can send you a piece of felt or leather of your choice replace the daggy cardboard.

Nice additional post Candy!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Great suggestions, thanks! I'll enhance the display, maybe try each and post pics here.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Nice save Mr. Cabinetshop.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Also pulled from the Fine Tools site (thanks, Candy!), an improvement to the daggy cardboard that is consistent with the Workshop Style Guide.


----------



## 489tad

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


I'm in favor of daggy cardboard improvement. I like Candys idea.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Will cut this out square and see how it looks.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Better?


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Looks perfect and it goes with your shop decore!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Aye. Better.

Printed on darker paper, it may make the decal more prominent.


----------



## CFrye

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Very much so!


----------



## summerfi

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Smitty, when you replace the glass in the base, you could make it a multi-piece leaded glass and incorporate the Shapleigh glass remnant into it.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


^ Excellent idea!


----------



## robscastle

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Ah yes much better, trust a lady to come up with a nice decorating solution!

Great partnership at work!!


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Fine save.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Shapleigh Ephemera*
> 
> As is usually the case, this entry starts with some background. This particular broken piece was an auction purchase likely more than 20 years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be a three sided display case meant to sit on top of a store cabinet. Problem was (obviously) the glass was in pieces. I liked it and bought it for some small amount and it's been in a cabinet in the garage ever since. But lately, with the same cleaning exercise that reprised the plumb crate that's becoming a nail cabinet, it was rediscovered. Notable feature: the decal on the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First challenge was removing the glass from the case. A razor blade did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some marks to create a square piece of glass (I have a glass cutter that wasn't there years ago)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a scrap oak frame made with Stanley 150 mitre box and #289 skew fillister got me a framed piece of glass from a famous, albeit long-gone, St Louis hardware company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what else I can do to it, but at least what's there was saved. The base will get new glass at some point, when I know where to put such a piece when restored.
> 
> That's it, thanks for looking!


Very nice Smitty. You have had a lot of good suggestions and I like them all.

Oh, I like the design of that step stool also.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Soft (Brown) Maple in the House*

Cut a tree down last year, a soft maple that was really a sh*t tree, and just got the trunk slabbed today into 5/4 boards.

Here's the tree.









Here are the boards.









All will finish at 10" + wide and over 8' long, and there's spalting too.










Over 80 board feet.









Ponderosa pine at the bottom of the stack, air drying since 2014 or so. A day with wood is a good day! Thanks for looking.


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Soft (Brown) Maple in the House*
> 
> Cut a tree down last year, a soft maple that was really a sh*t tree, and just got the trunk slabbed today into 5/4 boards.
> 
> Here's the tree.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All will finish at 10" + wide and over 8' long, and there's spalting too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over 80 board feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ponderosa pine at the bottom of the stack, air drying since 2014 or so. A day with wood is a good day! Thanks for looking.


Nice haul smutty!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Soft (Brown) Maple in the House*
> 
> Cut a tree down last year, a soft maple that was really a sh*t tree, and just got the trunk slabbed today into 5/4 boards.
> 
> Here's the tree.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All will finish at 10" + wide and over 8' long, and there's spalting too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over 80 board feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ponderosa pine at the bottom of the stack, air drying since 2014 or so. A day with wood is a good day! Thanks for looking.


Got missiles, Stef?


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Soft (Brown) Maple in the House*
> 
> Cut a tree down last year, a soft maple that was really a sh*t tree, and just got the trunk slabbed today into 5/4 boards.
> 
> Here's the tree.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All will finish at 10" + wide and over 8' long, and there's spalting too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over 80 board feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ponderosa pine at the bottom of the stack, air drying since 2014 or so. A day with wood is a good day! Thanks for looking.


What did you do with it between cutting it down and milling?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Soft (Brown) Maple in the House*
> 
> Cut a tree down last year, a soft maple that was really a sh*t tree, and just got the trunk slabbed today into 5/4 boards.
> 
> Here's the tree.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All will finish at 10" + wide and over 8' long, and there's spalting too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over 80 board feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ponderosa pine at the bottom of the stack, air drying since 2014 or so. A day with wood is a good day! Thanks for looking.


Honestly? It sat at the sawyers, doing whatever logs do. (I wasn't too concerned about it, actually, so what came back was a huge BONUS to me.)


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Soft (Brown) Maple in the House*
> 
> Cut a tree down last year, a soft maple that was really a sh*t tree, and just got the trunk slabbed today into 5/4 boards.
> 
> Here's the tree.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All will finish at 10" + wide and over 8' long, and there's spalting too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over 80 board feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ponderosa pine at the bottom of the stack, air drying since 2014 or so. A day with wood is a good day! Thanks for looking.


I only ask because I have read of various techniques of purposefully spalting maple which typically involves laying the log directly on that ground for a precise but unknown amount of time, moisture, leaves, fungus and other magical spells.

I wondered if you had become such a wood whisperer.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Soft (Brown) Maple in the House*
> 
> Cut a tree down last year, a soft maple that was really a sh*t tree, and just got the trunk slabbed today into 5/4 boards.
> 
> Here's the tree.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All will finish at 10" + wide and over 8' long, and there's spalting too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over 80 board feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ponderosa pine at the bottom of the stack, air drying since 2014 or so. A day with wood is a good day! Thanks for looking.


Nope, this one is truly serendipity! And it's not even punky spalty, just all kinds of viens and colors. Makes an otherwise 'nothing' soft maple some good wood.


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Soft (Brown) Maple in the House*
> 
> Cut a tree down last year, a soft maple that was really a sh*t tree, and just got the trunk slabbed today into 5/4 boards.
> 
> Here's the tree.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All will finish at 10" + wide and over 8' long, and there's spalting too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over 80 board feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ponderosa pine at the bottom of the stack, air drying since 2014 or so. A day with wood is a good day! Thanks for looking.


Wonderful landscape in that wood.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Soft (Brown) Maple in the House*
> 
> Cut a tree down last year, a soft maple that was really a sh*t tree, and just got the trunk slabbed today into 5/4 boards.
> 
> Here's the tree.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All will finish at 10" + wide and over 8' long, and there's spalting too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over 80 board feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ponderosa pine at the bottom of the stack, air drying since 2014 or so. A day with wood is a good day! Thanks for looking.


Right on Smitty! It'll be fun to see what it becomes.


----------



## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Soft (Brown) Maple in the House*
> 
> Cut a tree down last year, a soft maple that was really a sh*t tree, and just got the trunk slabbed today into 5/4 boards.
> 
> Here's the tree.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All will finish at 10" + wide and over 8' long, and there's spalting too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over 80 board feet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ponderosa pine at the bottom of the stack, air drying since 2014 or so. A day with wood is a good day! Thanks for looking.


Nice load of lumber. Can't wait to see what you turn it into.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*

One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.










Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.



















Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


----------



## TerryDowning

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


As a Miller's Falls fan.

Nice finds! Looking good


----------



## Woodwrecker

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


Quite a nice "collection" brother.
All look great and I bet they give you very nice service.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


You know you need the 6, right?

Nice collection.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!





> You know you need the 6, right?
> 
> - Don W


Mark my words: I will never own the No. 6 in this Craftsman line. Never.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!





> You know you need the 6, right?
> 
> - Don W
> 
> Mark my words: I will never own the No. 6 in this Craftsman line. Never. I already own a T13 version of the six, and that's too many of them.
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


... but what if it is a really spotless specimen that someone is throwing away?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!





> ... but what if it is a really spotless specimen that someone is throwing away?
> 
> - AnthonyReed


"Don't you put that evil on me, Ricky Bobby!"


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


You have plenty of room.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


No. No. No. No. No.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


Plenty.


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


A #6 Makes a decent shooting plane dontcha know.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


No.


----------



## Notw

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


----------



## JayT

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


If I find a 6CBB somewhere, I'm sending it to Smitty.


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


The hunt is on ^


----------



## HokieKen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


Should we all pitch in and get this plane for Smitty?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


So your saying when you get it your not going to tell us?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


Paraphrasing, "I will not accept if gifted and will not display if one is presented."


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


Hmmm, a challenge!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


Is this reverse psychology?


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


Intervention, he really should have a six!


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


Lovely planes.
It has been a joy to follow your growing passion.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## 489tad

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Craftsman 'CBB' Planes*
> 
> One of my first 'pristine' tool finds was a Craftsman 5CBB jack plane. Still had the decal, and I liked the red and blue accents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward a half dozen years and I find another 'CBB' on ebay and do some research. They're Millers Falls planes made for Craftsman. Not prime bench planes, but quite serviceable. It seems there were Stanley equivalents for bench sizes 3 through 7, no fractionals. I'm not one to covet a 6 (I find them quite worthless), so with today's addition of a 7CBB I'm calling this a Collection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a bit of fun, thought I'd share. C'ya!


This is funny.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Hardware & Glue-up*

So I pushed one of the unfinished drawers into it's place in the cabinet and couldn't get it out without help. And that help was installation of a drawer pull.










With one put into place, an executive decision was reached to install all eight. One setting of dividers was used to get them where it looked good to my eye. So, divider, pencil and Goodell Pratt Birds-Eye Awl readied each front for drilling via the Stanley eggbeater (sporting the latest in blue painter's tape as a depth stop).



















Pretty soon all eight were marked and drilled.










Waxed, slotted screws and all was done.










Now it was time to glue up the drawer sides to each of the fronts. All it takes is a vise, carpenter clamp and a couple of F-style clamps per drawer! Why such a conflagration? To tighten sides to front horizontally as well as pull the sides tight to the front of each half blind socket (front to back clamps). At this rate it'll take a few days to finish, as I only have a couple H clamps to work with.



















See you later this week for another update.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Hardware & Glue-up*
> 
> So I pushed one of the unfinished drawers into it's place in the cabinet and couldn't get it out without help. And that help was installation of a drawer pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With one put into place, an executive decision was reached to install all eight. One setting of dividers was used to get them where it looked good to my eye. So, divider, pencil and Goodell Pratt Birds-Eye Awl readied each front for drilling via the Stanley eggbeater (sporting the latest in blue painter's tape as a depth stop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty soon all eight were marked and drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waxed, slotted screws and all was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it was time to glue up the drawer sides to each of the fronts. All it takes is a vise, carpenter clamp and a couple of F-style clamps per drawer! Why such a conflagration? To tighten sides to front horizontally as well as pull the sides tight to the front of each half blind socket (front to back clamps). At this rate it'll take a few days to finish, as I only have a couple H clamps to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See you later this week for another update.


Good show Smitty.


----------



## RonAylor1760

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Hardware & Glue-up*
> 
> So I pushed one of the unfinished drawers into it's place in the cabinet and couldn't get it out without help. And that help was installation of a drawer pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With one put into place, an executive decision was reached to install all eight. One setting of dividers was used to get them where it looked good to my eye. So, divider, pencil and Goodell Pratt Birds-Eye Awl readied each front for drilling via the Stanley eggbeater (sporting the latest in blue painter's tape as a depth stop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty soon all eight were marked and drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waxed, slotted screws and all was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it was time to glue up the drawer sides to each of the fronts. All it takes is a vise, carpenter clamp and a couple of F-style clamps per drawer! Why such a conflagration? To tighten sides to front horizontally as well as pull the sides tight to the front of each half blind socket (front to back clamps). At this rate it'll take a few days to finish, as I only have a couple H clamps to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See you later this week for another update.


This get better looking with every post. Kudos!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Hardware & Glue-up*
> 
> So I pushed one of the unfinished drawers into it's place in the cabinet and couldn't get it out without help. And that help was installation of a drawer pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With one put into place, an executive decision was reached to install all eight. One setting of dividers was used to get them where it looked good to my eye. So, divider, pencil and Goodell Pratt Birds-Eye Awl readied each front for drilling via the Stanley eggbeater (sporting the latest in blue painter's tape as a depth stop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty soon all eight were marked and drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waxed, slotted screws and all was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it was time to glue up the drawer sides to each of the fronts. All it takes is a vise, carpenter clamp and a couple of F-style clamps per drawer! Why such a conflagration? To tighten sides to front horizontally as well as pull the sides tight to the front of each half blind socket (front to back clamps). At this rate it'll take a few days to finish, as I only have a couple H clamps to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See you later this week for another update.


Thanks, gents!


----------



## BurlyBob

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Hardware & Glue-up*
> 
> So I pushed one of the unfinished drawers into it's place in the cabinet and couldn't get it out without help. And that help was installation of a drawer pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With one put into place, an executive decision was reached to install all eight. One setting of dividers was used to get them where it looked good to my eye. So, divider, pencil and Goodell Pratt Birds-Eye Awl readied each front for drilling via the Stanley eggbeater (sporting the latest in blue painter's tape as a depth stop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty soon all eight were marked and drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waxed, slotted screws and all was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it was time to glue up the drawer sides to each of the fronts. All it takes is a vise, carpenter clamp and a couple of F-style clamps per drawer! Why such a conflagration? To tighten sides to front horizontally as well as pull the sides tight to the front of each half blind socket (front to back clamps). At this rate it'll take a few days to finish, as I only have a couple H clamps to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See you later this week for another update.


Love that spalted wood.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Hardware & Glue-up*
> 
> So I pushed one of the unfinished drawers into it's place in the cabinet and couldn't get it out without help. And that help was installation of a drawer pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With one put into place, an executive decision was reached to install all eight. One setting of dividers was used to get them where it looked good to my eye. So, divider, pencil and Goodell Pratt Birds-Eye Awl readied each front for drilling via the Stanley eggbeater (sporting the latest in blue painter's tape as a depth stop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty soon all eight were marked and drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waxed, slotted screws and all was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it was time to glue up the drawer sides to each of the fronts. All it takes is a vise, carpenter clamp and a couple of F-style clamps per drawer! Why such a conflagration? To tighten sides to front horizontally as well as pull the sides tight to the front of each half blind socket (front to back clamps). At this rate it'll take a few days to finish, as I only have a couple H clamps to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See you later this week for another update.


It does look good Smitty.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Hardware & Glue-up*
> 
> So I pushed one of the unfinished drawers into it's place in the cabinet and couldn't get it out without help. And that help was installation of a drawer pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With one put into place, an executive decision was reached to install all eight. One setting of dividers was used to get them where it looked good to my eye. So, divider, pencil and Goodell Pratt Birds-Eye Awl readied each front for drilling via the Stanley eggbeater (sporting the latest in blue painter's tape as a depth stop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty soon all eight were marked and drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waxed, slotted screws and all was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it was time to glue up the drawer sides to each of the fronts. All it takes is a vise, carpenter clamp and a couple of F-style clamps per drawer! Why such a conflagration? To tighten sides to front horizontally as well as pull the sides tight to the front of each half blind socket (front to back clamps). At this rate it'll take a few days to finish, as I only have a couple H clamps to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See you later this week for another update.


So slick!


----------



## Bobsboxes

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Hardware & Glue-up*
> 
> So I pushed one of the unfinished drawers into it's place in the cabinet and couldn't get it out without help. And that help was installation of a drawer pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With one put into place, an executive decision was reached to install all eight. One setting of dividers was used to get them where it looked good to my eye. So, divider, pencil and Goodell Pratt Birds-Eye Awl readied each front for drilling via the Stanley eggbeater (sporting the latest in blue painter's tape as a depth stop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty soon all eight were marked and drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waxed, slotted screws and all was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it was time to glue up the drawer sides to each of the fronts. All it takes is a vise, carpenter clamp and a couple of F-style clamps per drawer! Why such a conflagration? To tighten sides to front horizontally as well as pull the sides tight to the front of each half blind socket (front to back clamps). At this rate it'll take a few days to finish, as I only have a couple H clamps to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See you later this week for another update.


Good looking storage.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Hardware & Glue-up*
> 
> So I pushed one of the unfinished drawers into it's place in the cabinet and couldn't get it out without help. And that help was installation of a drawer pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With one put into place, an executive decision was reached to install all eight. One setting of dividers was used to get them where it looked good to my eye. So, divider, pencil and Goodell Pratt Birds-Eye Awl readied each front for drilling via the Stanley eggbeater (sporting the latest in blue painter's tape as a depth stop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty soon all eight were marked and drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waxed, slotted screws and all was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it was time to glue up the drawer sides to each of the fronts. All it takes is a vise, carpenter clamp and a couple of F-style clamps per drawer! Why such a conflagration? To tighten sides to front horizontally as well as pull the sides tight to the front of each half blind socket (front to back clamps). At this rate it'll take a few days to finish, as I only have a couple H clamps to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See you later this week for another update.


Crap. Went to pull two out of clamps this AM, before work, and one of them went askew on me / went out of square. Not sure of the impact or a proper solution yet.


----------



## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Hardware & Glue-up*
> 
> So I pushed one of the unfinished drawers into it's place in the cabinet and couldn't get it out without help. And that help was installation of a drawer pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With one put into place, an executive decision was reached to install all eight. One setting of dividers was used to get them where it looked good to my eye. So, divider, pencil and Goodell Pratt Birds-Eye Awl readied each front for drilling via the Stanley eggbeater (sporting the latest in blue painter's tape as a depth stop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty soon all eight were marked and drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waxed, slotted screws and all was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it was time to glue up the drawer sides to each of the fronts. All it takes is a vise, carpenter clamp and a couple of F-style clamps per drawer! Why such a conflagration? To tighten sides to front horizontally as well as pull the sides tight to the front of each half blind socket (front to back clamps). At this rate it'll take a few days to finish, as I only have a couple H clamps to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See you later this week for another update.


Ouch!! Let us know of your solution Smitty. Those fronts look nice.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Hardware & Glue-up*
> 
> So I pushed one of the unfinished drawers into it's place in the cabinet and couldn't get it out without help. And that help was installation of a drawer pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With one put into place, an executive decision was reached to install all eight. One setting of dividers was used to get them where it looked good to my eye. So, divider, pencil and Goodell Pratt Birds-Eye Awl readied each front for drilling via the Stanley eggbeater (sporting the latest in blue painter's tape as a depth stop).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty soon all eight were marked and drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waxed, slotted screws and all was done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it was time to glue up the drawer sides to each of the fronts. All it takes is a vise, carpenter clamp and a couple of F-style clamps per drawer! Why such a conflagration? To tighten sides to front horizontally as well as pull the sides tight to the front of each half blind socket (front to back clamps). At this rate it'll take a few days to finish, as I only have a couple H clamps to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See you later this week for another update.


Next installment here.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*

Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.










I just like this 'in process' picture.










And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.










Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.










Removed excess from backs.




























While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!

So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!










With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


----------



## TheFridge

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


You old workhorse you  your makin is look bad

I like how the excess from the back was removed by immaculate sawing. All of a sudden it was cut just right wit the scrap laying there. I need to learn that trick 

Looking good. Send it my way when you get a chance.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


That's a fine-looking cabinet, Smitty. Glad you got the drawer straightened out.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


I didn't explain, and it may not be obvious, that the back pieces are cutoffs from the sides. So there's a dado in each, when turned upside down. With a couple scoring cuts with the drywall knife, the excess snapped off and I could block plane the top until flat and smooth.

Thanks Dave! I guess it'd qualify as a box, right?
.
.
.
No, I'm not swapping it. ;-)


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


St. Roy look out, there's a new sherif in town 

Outstanding buddy. What kind of glue did you use that softened with moisture like that?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


Thanks!

Titebond II.

All I can think is the shop was on the cold side and maybe kept things from being 100% set? Of course, maybe it went back to skew overnight and the drawer may not come out today. lol. Whatever the factors, just happy it worked.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


Clever method, I hope the skew fix is permanent.

This group of shots of the drawers really shows how substantial they are, that's the goods right there.


----------



## visualj

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


Looks good Smitty.

"not all drawers are exactly the same" 
I have a screw bin like this from my dad, each drawer is numbered… 
I made a couple of bins, each drawer is numbered…

Funny how that happens.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


Thanks Tony!~

Visual, your point is well taken. I'll have paper inserts for each drawer that'll get a nail or screw on a dab of hot glue to tell me what's inside. Now each card will get a little number written in the corner, too!

Still deciding wether to make a couple (very small) sliding bins inside a drawer or two.


----------



## RonAylor1760

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


That is one sweet cabinet, and a wonderful blog series. Kudos!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


Thanks Ron, it's taken too long to get this far but that's one of the perks of a dedicated shop space: things stay put and wait for me to get caught up / motivated / back in the swing of things! 

EDIT: The more I look at that last pic, the more I'm second guessing hardware placement. Shoulda centered them and showed off more of the grain in the drawer fronts. Oh well…


----------



## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


I think the grain looks great anyway Smitty. Nice job!


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## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


EDIT: The more I look at that last pic, the more I'm second guessing hardware placement. Shoulda centered them and showed off more of the grain in the drawer fronts. Oh well…

Need some more spalted stock?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


What, and do another one of these? No. Friggin'. Way.


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## DavePolaschek

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!





> Thanks Dave! I guess it'd qualify as a box, right?


I'd sure say it does, Smitty. Wanna join in the swap? The more the merrier, and I'm pretty sure you could come up with *some*thing.

One of the things I've found this winter is that Titebond III will set with my shop about 40. Titebond II wants to be about 45-50 to set up, or it needs an extra day if the temp is around 40.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


Done.










Project post forthcoming, thanks for checking out the progress blog!


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## RightWayCabs

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


Just a quick tip, when I make my drawers I usually put the bottom in and pin it or staple it in place at an angle from the bottom then clamp to ensure that it comes out square every time.

Also quick question. I have a garage storage company and every now and the I get a request for a unique way to label what is in each cabinet. When I saw your pulls I thought that would be a great way of labeling, where did you get them from and/or what is the common name for them?


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


"Label holder drawer pulls" or "label holder w/ finger pulls" will get you there.


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## RightWayCabs

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!





> "Label holder drawer pulls" or "label holder w/ finger pulls" will get you there.
> 
> - AnthonyReed


Thanks!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


Bin pulls from D Lawless, Odin Il


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## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Nail (Screw) Cabinet - Final Assembly*
> 
> Okay. In the last installment I noted that a glued up drawer front / sides piece went kinda 'parallelogram' on me overnight. To affect a repair, I brushed water in each of the front corner joints and set it on the shop heater to warm it up thoroughly. Clamped it square and hoped for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like this 'in process' picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And clamped drawer backs into place after gluing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked, drilled, cut and nailed bottoms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed excess from backs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the glue set, I hit the crate with some Howard's orange oil and beeswax to bring out some of the rich tone of the old pine box while giving it a bit of protection. Not much of a protective finish, I know, but I like it and it's in the Shop Style Guide. Anyway, when that was done, the slanted drawer came out of the clamps and was surprisingly much closer to square. Very pleased to see that!
> 
> So with all drawers put together, all eight drawers were put back into the divided crate kinda like a puzzle gets worked on… Grain has to line up, and not all drawers are exactly the same (shocker!). With that, assembly was done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With some final fitting remaining tomorrow evening, we have a bench at rest tonight. Almost there!


Big smile here, really so wonderful to get a look into your shop and working.
Thanks.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Tumbler for Small Stuff*

I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.










I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.










Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.










Lots of pulverized rust left behind!










I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.










Ready for later use!


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tumbler for Small Stuff*
> 
> I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pulverized rust left behind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for later use!


You are a clever boy.


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tumbler for Small Stuff*
> 
> I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pulverized rust left behind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for later use!


Wife on vacation?


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tumbler for Small Stuff*
> 
> I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pulverized rust left behind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for later use!


THAT is a good question.


----------



## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tumbler for Small Stuff*
> 
> I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pulverized rust left behind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for later use!


Clever. Glad the screws stayed inside the container, you'd have needed to do laundry otherwise ;-)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tumbler for Small Stuff*
> 
> I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pulverized rust left behind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for later use!


Hah, wife actually took an interest in this project. Mostly with the wrapping and tape up, of course.

Lots of tape, rag wrapped, etc. etc. Went well!


----------



## DLK

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tumbler for Small Stuff*
> 
> I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pulverized rust left behind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for later use!


I read about this dryer trick too and wondered if it would really work. I am so glad you tried it! (My wife is too. LOL.)

Now that it does. I wonder if it would work in a rock tumbler.

Or just make my own.


----------



## 33706

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tumbler for Small Stuff*
> 
> I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pulverized rust left behind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for later use!


Good save on those slotted flat-head screws! They are becoming more and more difficult to find, and they are my favorite to use, where appearance is important.

I thought about putting rusty hardware in a clean empty paint can, and asking the local paint store if they'd put it on their shaker, but your idea makes much more sense. Wonder if a handful of Black Beauty or other blasting media might help?

Fantastic idea, *Smitty!*


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tumbler for Small Stuff*
> 
> I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pulverized rust left behind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for later use!


I did a second batch, PK, and added a handful of sand. Seemed to make cleanup after a little easier. I'm sure adding media couldn't hurt at all. Thanks Kat, and I totally agree re: slotted screws.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tumbler for Small Stuff*
> 
> I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pulverized rust left behind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for later use!


HAHAHA!! @ Wife on vacation question.

Thanks for sharing the results of putting the interwebs to the test.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tumbler for Small Stuff*
> 
> I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pulverized rust left behind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for later use!


you definitely want to make sure the lid is on tight!!


----------



## 489tad

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tumbler for Small Stuff*
> 
> I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pulverized rust left behind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for later use!


The wife question was funny.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tumbler for Small Stuff*
> 
> I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pulverized rust left behind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for later use!


Pulverized walnut shells or ground corn-cobs are what I use to clean brass for reloading. Don't see why either of those wouldn't work on screws. I think I paid about $30 for my brass tumbler when one of the local gun shops went out of business over a decade back. The media is under $10 for enough to do dozens of batches.


----------



## 7davenj88

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tumbler for Small Stuff*
> 
> I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pulverized rust left behind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for later use!


Smitty,

I would like to get a copy of the high resolution picture showing the Stanley No. 444 dovetail detail dimensions for various thicknesses of wood. You mentioned it in your Lumberjack's 3-part discussion on the Stanley 444. If you could send it to [email protected] I would greatly appreciate it. I have recently acquired a Stanley 444 and I am trying to figure out how to set it up. I have seen various low resolution versions of the diagram online but none are readable.


----------



## ElroyD

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tumbler for Small Stuff*
> 
> I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pulverized rust left behind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for later use!


Hold onto that powdered rust. It's a nice pigment for milk paint.


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tumbler for Small Stuff*
> 
> I have a Folgers tub mostly full of 1" slotted screws, but they're a rusty mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently heard a clothes dryer works as a parts tumbler, so here we go! Start with rusty screws and a tightly lidded / sealed container.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tumble with a medium load of towels about 30 minutes and the threads and slots were looking much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pulverized rust left behind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then soaked them with WD-40 and let them dry in the sun before a final wipe down with a rag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for later use!


That sure is a clever idea.
When I was a boy, my grandfather had us straighten out, then wire brush old nails and screws, the he put them in old tobacco tins with a few drops of oil and we were shaking them. Like this they were ready for a new life. He had stacks of these old tins.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Unusual SW Marking*

Well, unusual to my knowledge, anyway.

Salvaging some hinges earlier this week










First one gave up some Stanley love










Logo difficult to make out (even more difficult to photograph), but it says "STANLEY WORKS MADE IN USA" all inside that heart.

Did some clean up for a better pic:










Not important or even tremendously interesting (except for me, of course), but it put a smile into a menial task. Now t find a project to use them on!


----------



## JethroBodean

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Unusual SW Marking*
> 
> Well, unusual to my knowledge, anyway.
> 
> Salvaging some hinges earlier this week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First one gave up some Stanley love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Logo difficult to make out (even more difficult to photograph), but it says "STANLEY WORKS MADE IN USA" all inside that heart.
> 
> Did some clean up for a better pic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not important or even tremendously interesting (except for me, of course), but it put a smile into a menial task. Now t find a project to use them on!


Actually I think that is pretty cool, Smitty


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Unusual SW Marking*
> 
> Well, unusual to my knowledge, anyway.
> 
> Salvaging some hinges earlier this week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First one gave up some Stanley love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Logo difficult to make out (even more difficult to photograph), but it says "STANLEY WORKS MADE IN USA" all inside that heart.
> 
> Did some clean up for a better pic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not important or even tremendously interesting (except for me, of course), but it put a smile into a menial task. Now t find a project to use them on!


Then I'm glad it got posted! Thanks!


----------



## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Unusual SW Marking*
> 
> Well, unusual to my knowledge, anyway.
> 
> Salvaging some hinges earlier this week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First one gave up some Stanley love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Logo difficult to make out (even more difficult to photograph), but it says "STANLEY WORKS MADE IN USA" all inside that heart.
> 
> Did some clean up for a better pic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not important or even tremendously interesting (except for me, of course), but it put a smile into a menial task. Now t find a project to use them on!


Nice Smitty, how many were there? Oh, is the logo on the underside?


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Unusual SW Marking*
> 
> Well, unusual to my knowledge, anyway.
> 
> Salvaging some hinges earlier this week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First one gave up some Stanley love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Logo difficult to make out (even more difficult to photograph), but it says "STANLEY WORKS MADE IN USA" all inside that heart.
> 
> Did some clean up for a better pic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not important or even tremendously interesting (except for me, of course), but it put a smile into a menial task. Now t find a project to use them on!


That's a cool logo. I don't think I've seen one like it.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Unusual SW Marking*
> 
> Well, unusual to my knowledge, anyway.
> 
> Salvaging some hinges earlier this week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First one gave up some Stanley love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Logo difficult to make out (even more difficult to photograph), but it says "STANLEY WORKS MADE IN USA" all inside that heart.
> 
> Did some clean up for a better pic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not important or even tremendously interesting (except for me, of course), but it put a smile into a menial task. Now t find a project to use them on!


Four hinges total, Duck. Yep, logos are stamped on the underside of each of them.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Unusual SW Marking*
> 
> Well, unusual to my knowledge, anyway.
> 
> Salvaging some hinges earlier this week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First one gave up some Stanley love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Logo difficult to make out (even more difficult to photograph), but it says "STANLEY WORKS MADE IN USA" all inside that heart.
> 
> Did some clean up for a better pic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not important or even tremendously interesting (except for me, of course), but it put a smile into a menial task. Now t find a project to use them on!


If you haven't seen it before, Yoda, that's a big deal! Thanks.


----------



## Mosquito

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Unusual SW Marking*
> 
> Well, unusual to my knowledge, anyway.
> 
> Salvaging some hinges earlier this week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First one gave up some Stanley love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Logo difficult to make out (even more difficult to photograph), but it says "STANLEY WORKS MADE IN USA" all inside that heart.
> 
> Did some clean up for a better pic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not important or even tremendously interesting (except for me, of course), but it put a smile into a menial task. Now t find a project to use them on!


I haven't seen that one either, that's neat. It was like when I found partial SW logos on the washers under the frog screws for my #7


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Unusual SW Marking*
> 
> Well, unusual to my knowledge, anyway.
> 
> Salvaging some hinges earlier this week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First one gave up some Stanley love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Logo difficult to make out (even more difficult to photograph), but it says "STANLEY WORKS MADE IN USA" all inside that heart.
> 
> Did some clean up for a better pic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not important or even tremendously interesting (except for me, of course), but it put a smile into a menial task. Now t find a project to use them on!


If you haven t seen it before, Yoda, that s a big deal! Thanks. - SmittyCabinetshop_ - Right?!?

They could not have landed in better hands.


----------



## Gene01

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Unusual SW Marking*
> 
> Well, unusual to my knowledge, anyway.
> 
> Salvaging some hinges earlier this week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First one gave up some Stanley love
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Logo difficult to make out (even more difficult to photograph), but it says "STANLEY WORKS MADE IN USA" all inside that heart.
> 
> Did some clean up for a better pic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not important or even tremendously interesting (except for me, of course), but it put a smile into a menial task. Now t find a project to use them on!


Cool find.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*A Simple Cabinet*

It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.










Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.



















Do some notch cuts and rabbets.



















Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.




























Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.



















Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?



















And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.

PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


----------



## putty

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Looks good Smitty, pictures are like taking a step back in time.


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## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Nice work Smitty. Did you cut rabbets/rebates before using the molding plane?


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


My horsing around rarely results in something productive and never in the beginnings of a cool piece of furniture. Hip cats are hip.

Thank you Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Back to when I used to blog and post more projects, right Putty? ;-)

Kevin, I was bad and did not remove excess material with a rabbet plane first.

Thanks Tony!


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## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Nice looking start, brand new…but yet vintage. Certainly your wheelhouse.


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Very nice.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


It's probably too rustic. Paint seems like an option. Not a great one, however. Stain? Nope.

Give it time, 'we'll see,' i guess.

Thanks everyone!


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## summerfi

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Everything Smitty touches looks vintage. That's a compliment.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Thank you, Bob. I appreciate that!

Bead detail on door compliments of a Crannell 3/8 beading plane (4th from the laft).










Trim: Done.



















Now, latch and lock, and a finish.


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Excellent.


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


I admire you working with those old hand planes Smitty and your work is always very well done, interesting and distinctive (in a positive way).


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Great to hear from you, Mike! You know, I keep saying I'm not a collector… the No. 1 way to keep that in the 'more truthful than not' column is to use those tools. It's a special kind of joy, letting these planes do (again) what they were intended to do. More fun that the completed project sometimes.

Glad you like it, Tony. What's the finish needed, you think?


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## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


I love watching your shop adventures Smitty. Your love for old tools is always borne out in your work. A love which many of us also share. Great job!


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## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


I second what Andy said Smitty. I love reading your Shop Stuff adventures.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Thanks Gents. Thinking milk paint for this cabinet. Low tech knob and surface mounted wood 'turn latch' to keep it closed. Blue? Green? Haven't done red or yellow yet.


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## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Yellow undercoat with a green topcoat, slightly sand the visible corners and a few edges. Should look just about right in the shop.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


That's the kind of stuff I'm thinking about, yep! Should be fun!


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## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


This is my take on green over yellow


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Talked w/ my dad about this cabinet. He said, "Where's it going? That has a lot to do with what color is should be." I said it didn't have a destination. He suggested the shop, to which I replied it'd need to be half a pair if I kept it in the shop.
.
.
.
So I might be building a twin.


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## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Will they be freestanding or wall hung?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


"They" don't exist yet, but the idea is they'd be wall hung with open sheves between them. Cleaning up the lines along the wall that the RAS is on.


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Dig that chest Kev.

Looking forward to your selection of color Smitty.


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## ShaneA

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


I like it the way it is. One outlandish vote for build a second and leave em natural


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


OF, that dutchy of yours needs your name on it, in olde tyme script!


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## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Yes it does, practicing on paper right now.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Cool!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Need shorter screws for door latch hardware.










That's cutting it too close. Maybe something in here.










Yep.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!







































Done!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Ready for Terra Cotta paint?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


You mean Pumpkin? lawl


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Either or

Edit: I just noticed the heater, what's the temp? That vortex thing looks chilly.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Cold outside, but the propane heater has the shop at just under 60 degrees today.


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It all started with a bit of horsing around with one of the M. Crannell moulding planes that came with the H&R half set + I got from Don Yoda over a year ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found some straight grained pine and made a decent profile, then decided to rough out a simple cabinet I could nail it onto. Start with more reclaimed (old, salvaged) pine boards and rough 'em to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do some notch cuts and rabbets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square nail fasteners for the face, then added beadboard back and shelf cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then, get a door on this thing. M&T frame, floating panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and this was about the moulding, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's as far as I've gotten thus far.
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Cold outside doesn't cover it here. After noon and it hasn't made it above 1. I don't even want to know the wind chill!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Another Simple Cabinet*

It begins anew…

For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)

First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.










Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.










Then the first one had issues…










So, new stock was chosen.










Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.



















Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.










Add some square nails.



















And we're making progress!










The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!










And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.










Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.










Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…










then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.










Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.










Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.










In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!

PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


That's coming along nicely! Nice to see your still cranking out beautiful hand work in the shop.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Hi Mauricio! Thanks, and good to see you!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Maur, the operative term here is crank. The man's a machine. And good to see you as well.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Good to see you to OF


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


You're on a roll. Glad to see somebody is getting some shop time. This weather suchs!!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Got the mended board out of clamps, flattened the face a bit.










Used a winding stick from BYo to check edge.










Jointer: the Original H&H










Ripped both boards to width, a problem with the other one: funky face split.










Glue and clamps, keep moving.










Why do I aggravate myself, right?


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


But you do do it with style dude! 

BTW, nice Colt clamps.


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Enjoying your handwork posts as usual Smitty. Makes me wish I were in better shape to do something similar. Quite a difference from using loud and dusty machinery, not to mention the advantage of not requiring a large space to accommodate all the tools.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Progress.










Some detail later.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Had to abandon one board and find a replacement, as I missed this curve.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


I was shocked to see that a stick eventually came along that you didn't bend to your will. You're a force to be reckoned with.


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


That's some good honest graft right there Smitty. The shavings on the floor say it all. My shop is in the same state. I got a full day in there today and it was great.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Andy, your point of view is diametrically opposed to my middle grandchild! I was informed today that my shop is messy and I had better get it clean. We had just made a heart cut out using a turning saw.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Need shop pics, Andy! And, more added above.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Okay, all caught up with posting pics and progress above.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!












And a pair of matching hinges headed to derusting bath.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


That's nice Smitty. Did the other one have a bead board back as well?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


I guess that is a yes! Thanks


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Yep. Easy to snap a pic, I was standing right next to them at the time.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


I just looked back at the first cabinet blog. You get additional galoot style points for using two different mitre boxes!
One for left mitre and one for right?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


One for top moulding cuts, the other for bottom as I recall. Not sure (!)


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Well either way that's two boxes, your a collector!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


*argh!*

There's that word again…


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Hehe, misery loves company.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


How do you cut out a split board/ Do you clamp together and cut a kerf. That's seems dangerous and difficult. I imagine you separate and mark carefully. Then cut.

Kick ass clamps BTW.

Actually, it makes sense to clamp the board, mark with 2 parallel lines that encompass the split. Then separate and cut. Sorry, all the meth makes it difficult concentrate these days.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!





> How do you cut out a split board/ Do you clamp together and cut a kerf. That's seems dangerous and difficult.
> 
> - lysdexic


Hey Yo!

Clamped it tight, used straight edge on either side of split to create a pair of cut lines, then un-clamped and used the bandsaw. H&H to prep the edges before glue-up. But as it turned out, all for naught.

In the meantime, door rails and stiles needed. Table saw otherwise occupied as a work surface for some nail pulling that's in work, so I turned to that all-powerful ripping machine: the RAS!

*ooo, ahhhh! he's not gonna rip with that, IS HE???*

Yup.

Set the saw, to include blade guard and pawl, just so.










Several rips and a bit of face clean-up later:



















Now for some ploughing and a bit of M&T work to make the door for this second cabinet.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


I like this channel, guest appearance by BYo even.


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Like


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!












Thanks, glad you're along for the ride!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


- - - - - - - *DIVERSION* - - - - - - -

Several of our dining room chairs are coming apart at the seams, time to address 'em one at a time. These were my grandmother's pieces when mom was growing up, so, sentimental value.

Joint in the seat came unglued, legs and spindles and aprons coming apart as well.










To glue the seat, needed a custom 'caul' to get clamping done.



















Apron next.










Once those pieces are set an cured, one more glue-up session should get it all back together for another few decades at least.

- - - - - - - *END OF DIVERSION* - - - - - - -


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Did you joint, sand, excise or otherwise dress the split in your seat or just squirt and squeeze?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


The latter, as it turns out.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Latch hardware found!










And was all groovy and stuff this evening with rails and stiles and the Stanley No. 48.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


- - - - - - -*DIVERSION UPDATE* - - - - - -

Three glue ups later:










About ready to return this one to the house and tighten up Chair #2.

- - - - * End Diversion Update * - - - - -


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Stock found for moulding, see main post above.


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Awesome work Smitty. I love those old chairs.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Inside 'feature' I decided to add to cabinet no. 2 is adjustable shelves. So, find some suitable stock:










Clean it up with the S5










Stepped off hole locations with dividers and headed to the ole drill press










Band saw to split each down the middle










Now to make the support 'sticks' that will go between and serve as shelf supports!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


The right weather to make some moulding.










And it emerges!










Second piece went fast.


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Strong


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Thanks Yo, 'preciate it!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Seems like a lot of work just to make shavings 

The shelf supports are cool.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Too thick, they're gettin' resawn. Thanks OF! Ain't it past your bedtime? ;-)


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Posting from bed!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


 That's the ticket, right there!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Hence the phrase…....bedpost hehe


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Oh my…


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


That's a disturbing image!


----------



## Brit

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


This is shaping up nicely Smitty.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Thanks all!

Skiing today, no shop time. Progress planned tomorrow.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Be careful Smitty, skiing can be dangerous.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Already off the slopes, all is well!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Good, hate to slow down the wonderful production.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Making shelf brackets.










Door build still on horizon.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Panel door underway.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Lap joint then pinned?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


M&T. Lap joints are for wimps.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


whimper


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Chortle

Do you lap and pin, Kevin? Then it'd be okay. Seriously.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!

























































Panel material cracked and needed attention.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


While that set up, I cut the moulding to fit Cabinet No. 2.










Love my G-P mitrebox. And the results speak for themselves.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Smitty, I missed your comment about lap and pin. Yes I have done that on the night stand project using bamboo pins.

You decide what color yet?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Extra galoot points for using bamboo!

No decision yet, re: color.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Q: Filler, or Character?


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Uh, use a different color on the worm holes, should be interesting. If it doesn't work out then fill.

Edit: Or fill with the ever popular aquamarine stone stuff and epoxy. A river cabinet!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


River Cabinet, that'd be wild! I went boring.










Now wait an hour… maybe hardware install on Cabinet No. 1 in the meantime.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Yep, came out quite spiffy!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


It should finish out fine, glad the panel material was a 'save' and not a total loss. It's the last of it I have, and was used on Cabinet No. 1, so kinda important to me.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Cut excess at RAS










Now trim to fit!


----------



## mochoa

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Awesome work Smitty, love the M&T action.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Thanks Mauricio, happy to have you following along!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Hinges needed on the cabinet door.




























Then get hinge mortises set into the carcase.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


If you grow weary of these updates, it's mutual. Ready to get these done. But I'm going to finish what I've started. With that, getting very close indeed:


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


They don't match, go back and work on them.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Thanks for posting all the updates, Smitty. It's fun following along, especially when I'm stuck at work instead of in the shop.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


OF, I'm on it!

Thank you, Dave!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Okay.

Hardware placement and installation is next. First, the latch to match Cabinet No.1










Then the 'catch.'










Finalizing the adjustable shelves, first by installing the racks, then shaping the cross pegs that will support the shelves.



















Then I cut a couple shelf boards from salvaged cabinet drawer sides; nice, clear stock and solid wood.










Corners notched at the band saw.










And we're ready for the reveal!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


there is no "throw away society" mentality in this shop!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Getting the same 'type' of stock together for two builds was a special challenge in that regard. Rarely enough salvage of one thing to build multiples of anything from it. I got lucky. Especially with the latches and hinges!


----------



## lysdexic

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Really nice progress there Smitty


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Thanks Yo~ Check 'em out!

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/408231


----------



## WayneC

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Galoot factor 10 for all the hand tool use.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Another Simple Cabinet*
> 
> It begins anew…
> 
> For background, check here. And new build stuff could be on the OP (here) or below, so "WATCH" this blog and stay alert. ;-)
> 
> First, find some pine. Never mind the one piece had a huge stress crack in it; cut it out, joint the edges and make a good board out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those were gonna be the sides, then the second board needed attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the first one had issues…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, new stock was chosen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marked and cut corners for face frame pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sized and jointed those face pieces, pulling the No. 9 mitre plane into service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add some square nails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And we're making progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of these cabinets has 1/4" T&G, so a rabbet is needed. Press the No. 78!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And celebrate the Humble #203 Clamp along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work the top and bottom plates, getting length right for the inserts before marking to proper width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rip pieces for door panel, rails and stiles, via RAS…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then groove w/ Stanley No.48 T&G plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the stock to be made into the upper and lower moulding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grain is tight and straight, as it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the Comments section below I've posted on cutting the mouldings, creating adjustable shelves, and working the M&T joinery for the panel door~!
> 
> PROJECT POST IS HERE! Thanks for looking!


Thanks Wayne!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*The No 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs*

Let's explore the No. 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs! There are at least three 'types' out there, mostly differentiated by scribe type (earliest ones could hold a pencil) and presence of various patent dates. The Stanley version first appeared in the late 1880s ('87 or '88, per the inter webs) and the tool was ultimately discontinued in 1935. An interesting article on the earliest iterations of the tool can be found here. Here is another article with pics of the tool is use. The Odd-Jobs also appeared on page 35 of Stanley's 1922 copy of Catalogue No. 34:










And courtesy of Stan Faulin, here is a cover scan from the tool's instruction sheet:










Here's my version of the tool, one of the later types (no Pat'd dates, identical to the Catalogue illustration above) with Level bubble visible that makes the tool capable of checking horizontal and vertical Level (or plumb).










Blurry pic, but there's flaking nickel coating that is keeping the face of the tool from being flat and smooth.










A few swipes 'back and forth' over 400 grit paper (on a flat surface) addressed that issue in short order. Looks better, too.










What does the Odd-Jobs do besides serve as a level, you ask? It was advertised as 10 Tools in One… I can't vouch for that (yet), but here are a few. Starting with Square (honorable mention: the Scribe Tool):



















Reinsert that scribe tool into the Odd-Jobs, add a pencil, and you've got a Mortising Gauge:





































Another feature of the Scribe Tool is a Screwdriver; it is tailored to be used for extending a point at the top of the Odd-Jobs, creating a Beam Compass:





































The tool is a Depth Gauge:



















And a Mitre Square, too.










And finally, the Odd-Jobs can check for Inside Square on boxes, frames, drawers, etc.










Any Stanley 1" wide carpenter's rule will fit, included this longer, brass-edge variety, should it be preferred.










Thanks for looking!


----------



## WayneC

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The No 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs*
> 
> Let's explore the No. 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs! There are at least three 'types' out there, mostly differentiated by scribe type (earliest ones could hold a pencil) and presence of various patent dates. The Stanley version first appeared in the late 1880s ('87 or '88, per the inter webs) and the tool was ultimately discontinued in 1935. An interesting article on the earliest iterations of the tool can be found here. Here is another article with pics of the tool is use. The Odd-Jobs also appeared on page 35 of Stanley's 1922 copy of Catalogue No. 34:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And courtesy of Stan Faulin, here is a cover scan from the tool's instruction sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my version of the tool, one of the later types (no Pat'd dates, identical to the Catalogue illustration above) with Level bubble visible that makes the tool capable of checking horizontal and vertical Level (or plumb).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blurry pic, but there's flaking nickel coating that is keeping the face of the tool from being flat and smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few swipes 'back and forth' over 400 grit paper (on a flat surface) addressed that issue in short order. Looks better, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What does the Odd-Jobs do besides serve as a level, you ask? It was advertised as 10 Tools in One… I can't vouch for that (yet), but here are a few. Starting with Square (honorable mention: the Scribe Tool):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reinsert that scribe tool into the Odd-Jobs, add a pencil, and you've got a Mortising Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another feature of the Scribe Tool is a Screwdriver; it is tailored to be used for extending a point at the top of the Odd-Jobs, creating a Beam Compass:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool is a Depth Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a Mitre Square, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, the Odd-Jobs can check for Inside Square on boxes, frames, drawers, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any Stanley 1" wide carpenter's rule will fit, included this longer, brass-edge variety, should it be preferred.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Such a cool tool. I have one without the scribe and the ruler. I'm thinking of making a scribe.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The No 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs*
> 
> Let's explore the No. 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs! There are at least three 'types' out there, mostly differentiated by scribe type (earliest ones could hold a pencil) and presence of various patent dates. The Stanley version first appeared in the late 1880s ('87 or '88, per the inter webs) and the tool was ultimately discontinued in 1935. An interesting article on the earliest iterations of the tool can be found here. Here is another article with pics of the tool is use. The Odd-Jobs also appeared on page 35 of Stanley's 1922 copy of Catalogue No. 34:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And courtesy of Stan Faulin, here is a cover scan from the tool's instruction sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my version of the tool, one of the later types (no Pat'd dates, identical to the Catalogue illustration above) with Level bubble visible that makes the tool capable of checking horizontal and vertical Level (or plumb).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blurry pic, but there's flaking nickel coating that is keeping the face of the tool from being flat and smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few swipes 'back and forth' over 400 grit paper (on a flat surface) addressed that issue in short order. Looks better, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What does the Odd-Jobs do besides serve as a level, you ask? It was advertised as 10 Tools in One… I can't vouch for that (yet), but here are a few. Starting with Square (honorable mention: the Scribe Tool):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reinsert that scribe tool into the Odd-Jobs, add a pencil, and you've got a Mortising Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another feature of the Scribe Tool is a Screwdriver; it is tailored to be used for extending a point at the top of the Odd-Jobs, creating a Beam Compass:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool is a Depth Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a Mitre Square, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, the Odd-Jobs can check for Inside Square on boxes, frames, drawers, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any Stanley 1" wide carpenter's rule will fit, included this longer, brass-edge variety, should it be preferred.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


OK, that's pretty cool and thanks for posting this Smitty.


----------



## HokieKen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The No 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs*
> 
> Let's explore the No. 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs! There are at least three 'types' out there, mostly differentiated by scribe type (earliest ones could hold a pencil) and presence of various patent dates. The Stanley version first appeared in the late 1880s ('87 or '88, per the inter webs) and the tool was ultimately discontinued in 1935. An interesting article on the earliest iterations of the tool can be found here. Here is another article with pics of the tool is use. The Odd-Jobs also appeared on page 35 of Stanley's 1922 copy of Catalogue No. 34:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And courtesy of Stan Faulin, here is a cover scan from the tool's instruction sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my version of the tool, one of the later types (no Pat'd dates, identical to the Catalogue illustration above) with Level bubble visible that makes the tool capable of checking horizontal and vertical Level (or plumb).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blurry pic, but there's flaking nickel coating that is keeping the face of the tool from being flat and smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few swipes 'back and forth' over 400 grit paper (on a flat surface) addressed that issue in short order. Looks better, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What does the Odd-Jobs do besides serve as a level, you ask? It was advertised as 10 Tools in One… I can't vouch for that (yet), but here are a few. Starting with Square (honorable mention: the Scribe Tool):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reinsert that scribe tool into the Odd-Jobs, add a pencil, and you've got a Mortising Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another feature of the Scribe Tool is a Screwdriver; it is tailored to be used for extending a point at the top of the Odd-Jobs, creating a Beam Compass:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool is a Depth Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a Mitre Square, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, the Odd-Jobs can check for Inside Square on boxes, frames, drawers, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any Stanley 1" wide carpenter's rule will fit, included this longer, brass-edge variety, should it be preferred.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Very cool Smitty! I was intrigued some time back by the Woodpecker's version which led me to learning about the old Stanley original. Have been watching Ebay on and off for one for a couple of years but never found one that suited me at a price that suited me. It's definitely a unique piece of tool history!


----------



## 33706

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The No 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs*
> 
> Let's explore the No. 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs! There are at least three 'types' out there, mostly differentiated by scribe type (earliest ones could hold a pencil) and presence of various patent dates. The Stanley version first appeared in the late 1880s ('87 or '88, per the inter webs) and the tool was ultimately discontinued in 1935. An interesting article on the earliest iterations of the tool can be found here. Here is another article with pics of the tool is use. The Odd-Jobs also appeared on page 35 of Stanley's 1922 copy of Catalogue No. 34:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And courtesy of Stan Faulin, here is a cover scan from the tool's instruction sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my version of the tool, one of the later types (no Pat'd dates, identical to the Catalogue illustration above) with Level bubble visible that makes the tool capable of checking horizontal and vertical Level (or plumb).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blurry pic, but there's flaking nickel coating that is keeping the face of the tool from being flat and smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few swipes 'back and forth' over 400 grit paper (on a flat surface) addressed that issue in short order. Looks better, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What does the Odd-Jobs do besides serve as a level, you ask? It was advertised as 10 Tools in One… I can't vouch for that (yet), but here are a few. Starting with Square (honorable mention: the Scribe Tool):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reinsert that scribe tool into the Odd-Jobs, add a pencil, and you've got a Mortising Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another feature of the Scribe Tool is a Screwdriver; it is tailored to be used for extending a point at the top of the Odd-Jobs, creating a Beam Compass:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool is a Depth Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a Mitre Square, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, the Odd-Jobs can check for Inside Square on boxes, frames, drawers, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any Stanley 1" wide carpenter's rule will fit, included this longer, brass-edge variety, should it be preferred.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


I have never seen one of these in person, Smitty! What does the width of the rule have to be to fit this properly? Now I really want to add one to my toolbox.

Hey, I resisted the temptation to make a reference to James Bond's nemesis, but now the Goldfinger theme is stuck in my head.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The No 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs*
> 
> Let's explore the No. 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs! There are at least three 'types' out there, mostly differentiated by scribe type (earliest ones could hold a pencil) and presence of various patent dates. The Stanley version first appeared in the late 1880s ('87 or '88, per the inter webs) and the tool was ultimately discontinued in 1935. An interesting article on the earliest iterations of the tool can be found here. Here is another article with pics of the tool is use. The Odd-Jobs also appeared on page 35 of Stanley's 1922 copy of Catalogue No. 34:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And courtesy of Stan Faulin, here is a cover scan from the tool's instruction sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my version of the tool, one of the later types (no Pat'd dates, identical to the Catalogue illustration above) with Level bubble visible that makes the tool capable of checking horizontal and vertical Level (or plumb).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blurry pic, but there's flaking nickel coating that is keeping the face of the tool from being flat and smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few swipes 'back and forth' over 400 grit paper (on a flat surface) addressed that issue in short order. Looks better, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What does the Odd-Jobs do besides serve as a level, you ask? It was advertised as 10 Tools in One… I can't vouch for that (yet), but here are a few. Starting with Square (honorable mention: the Scribe Tool):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reinsert that scribe tool into the Odd-Jobs, add a pencil, and you've got a Mortising Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another feature of the Scribe Tool is a Screwdriver; it is tailored to be used for extending a point at the top of the Odd-Jobs, creating a Beam Compass:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool is a Depth Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a Mitre Square, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, the Odd-Jobs can check for Inside Square on boxes, frames, drawers, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any Stanley 1" wide carpenter's rule will fit, included this longer, brass-edge variety, should it be preferred.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Thanks for all the comments guys. For PK, any Stanley 1" wide carpenter's rule will fit.

Not a bunch of these on the 'bay, and the ones that are seem to have one problem or another.


----------



## Mosquito

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The No 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs*
> 
> Let's explore the No. 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs! There are at least three 'types' out there, mostly differentiated by scribe type (earliest ones could hold a pencil) and presence of various patent dates. The Stanley version first appeared in the late 1880s ('87 or '88, per the inter webs) and the tool was ultimately discontinued in 1935. An interesting article on the earliest iterations of the tool can be found here. Here is another article with pics of the tool is use. The Odd-Jobs also appeared on page 35 of Stanley's 1922 copy of Catalogue No. 34:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And courtesy of Stan Faulin, here is a cover scan from the tool's instruction sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my version of the tool, one of the later types (no Pat'd dates, identical to the Catalogue illustration above) with Level bubble visible that makes the tool capable of checking horizontal and vertical Level (or plumb).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blurry pic, but there's flaking nickel coating that is keeping the face of the tool from being flat and smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few swipes 'back and forth' over 400 grit paper (on a flat surface) addressed that issue in short order. Looks better, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What does the Odd-Jobs do besides serve as a level, you ask? It was advertised as 10 Tools in One… I can't vouch for that (yet), but here are a few. Starting with Square (honorable mention: the Scribe Tool):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reinsert that scribe tool into the Odd-Jobs, add a pencil, and you've got a Mortising Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another feature of the Scribe Tool is a Screwdriver; it is tailored to be used for extending a point at the top of the Odd-Jobs, creating a Beam Compass:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool is a Depth Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a Mitre Square, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, the Odd-Jobs can check for Inside Square on boxes, frames, drawers, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any Stanley 1" wide carpenter's rule will fit, included this longer, brass-edge variety, should it be preferred.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


That thing is really cool Smitty, thanks for sharing


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The No 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs*
> 
> Let's explore the No. 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs! There are at least three 'types' out there, mostly differentiated by scribe type (earliest ones could hold a pencil) and presence of various patent dates. The Stanley version first appeared in the late 1880s ('87 or '88, per the inter webs) and the tool was ultimately discontinued in 1935. An interesting article on the earliest iterations of the tool can be found here. Here is another article with pics of the tool is use. The Odd-Jobs also appeared on page 35 of Stanley's 1922 copy of Catalogue No. 34:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And courtesy of Stan Faulin, here is a cover scan from the tool's instruction sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my version of the tool, one of the later types (no Pat'd dates, identical to the Catalogue illustration above) with Level bubble visible that makes the tool capable of checking horizontal and vertical Level (or plumb).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blurry pic, but there's flaking nickel coating that is keeping the face of the tool from being flat and smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few swipes 'back and forth' over 400 grit paper (on a flat surface) addressed that issue in short order. Looks better, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What does the Odd-Jobs do besides serve as a level, you ask? It was advertised as 10 Tools in One… I can't vouch for that (yet), but here are a few. Starting with Square (honorable mention: the Scribe Tool):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reinsert that scribe tool into the Odd-Jobs, add a pencil, and you've got a Mortising Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another feature of the Scribe Tool is a Screwdriver; it is tailored to be used for extending a point at the top of the Odd-Jobs, creating a Beam Compass:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool is a Depth Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a Mitre Square, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, the Odd-Jobs can check for Inside Square on boxes, frames, drawers, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any Stanley 1" wide carpenter's rule will fit, included this longer, brass-edge variety, should it be preferred.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


You have so many obscure tools, love to see them. It's fantastic that you put them to task. Thank you Smitty.


----------



## adot45

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The No 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs*
> 
> Let's explore the No. 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs! There are at least three 'types' out there, mostly differentiated by scribe type (earliest ones could hold a pencil) and presence of various patent dates. The Stanley version first appeared in the late 1880s ('87 or '88, per the inter webs) and the tool was ultimately discontinued in 1935. An interesting article on the earliest iterations of the tool can be found here. Here is another article with pics of the tool is use. The Odd-Jobs also appeared on page 35 of Stanley's 1922 copy of Catalogue No. 34:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And courtesy of Stan Faulin, here is a cover scan from the tool's instruction sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my version of the tool, one of the later types (no Pat'd dates, identical to the Catalogue illustration above) with Level bubble visible that makes the tool capable of checking horizontal and vertical Level (or plumb).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blurry pic, but there's flaking nickel coating that is keeping the face of the tool from being flat and smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few swipes 'back and forth' over 400 grit paper (on a flat surface) addressed that issue in short order. Looks better, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What does the Odd-Jobs do besides serve as a level, you ask? It was advertised as 10 Tools in One… I can't vouch for that (yet), but here are a few. Starting with Square (honorable mention: the Scribe Tool):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reinsert that scribe tool into the Odd-Jobs, add a pencil, and you've got a Mortising Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another feature of the Scribe Tool is a Screwdriver; it is tailored to be used for extending a point at the top of the Odd-Jobs, creating a Beam Compass:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool is a Depth Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a Mitre Square, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, the Odd-Jobs can check for Inside Square on boxes, frames, drawers, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any Stanley 1" wide carpenter's rule will fit, included this longer, brass-edge variety, should it be preferred.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


An old thread but worth a revival?









Originally came with a 12" ruler but even though this is an earlier one (pencil holder) these 
are found with folders…..I think it's a pretty cool flea market find.

edit: oops-I thought this was a thread, sorry


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The No 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs*
> 
> Let's explore the No. 1 Stanley Odd-Jobs! There are at least three 'types' out there, mostly differentiated by scribe type (earliest ones could hold a pencil) and presence of various patent dates. The Stanley version first appeared in the late 1880s ('87 or '88, per the inter webs) and the tool was ultimately discontinued in 1935. An interesting article on the earliest iterations of the tool can be found here. Here is another article with pics of the tool is use. The Odd-Jobs also appeared on page 35 of Stanley's 1922 copy of Catalogue No. 34:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And courtesy of Stan Faulin, here is a cover scan from the tool's instruction sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my version of the tool, one of the later types (no Pat'd dates, identical to the Catalogue illustration above) with Level bubble visible that makes the tool capable of checking horizontal and vertical Level (or plumb).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blurry pic, but there's flaking nickel coating that is keeping the face of the tool from being flat and smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few swipes 'back and forth' over 400 grit paper (on a flat surface) addressed that issue in short order. Looks better, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What does the Odd-Jobs do besides serve as a level, you ask? It was advertised as 10 Tools in One… I can't vouch for that (yet), but here are a few. Starting with Square (honorable mention: the Scribe Tool):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reinsert that scribe tool into the Odd-Jobs, add a pencil, and you've got a Mortising Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another feature of the Scribe Tool is a Screwdriver; it is tailored to be used for extending a point at the top of the Odd-Jobs, creating a Beam Compass:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool is a Depth Gauge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a Mitre Square, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, the Odd-Jobs can check for Inside Square on boxes, frames, drawers, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any Stanley 1" wide carpenter's rule will fit, included this longer, brass-edge variety, should it be preferred.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Hey, no problem with a revival! Nice old Odd Jobs that looks quite complete!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Attaining 100%*

Had an inherited oak washstand in the upstairs bathroom. Not complete, as there was no towel rack on the back, as there once was. Literally found one at an auction, stripped, in pieces, but too wide. I cut and reshaped it years ago, never applied finish. Ah, the dreaded "99% Complete" project.

Well, that was addressed this week, and today it was installed.










BTW, everything above the flat surface (harp looking side pieces with straight rod between) is what I'm calling a 'towel rack.' Looks like it was always there. Exhale, job done! Thx for looking.


----------



## summerfi

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Attaining 100%*
> 
> Had an inherited oak washstand in the upstairs bathroom. Not complete, as there was no towel rack on the back, as there once was. Literally found one at an auction, stripped, in pieces, but too wide. I cut and reshaped it years ago, never applied finish. Ah, the dreaded "99% Complete" project.
> 
> Well, that was addressed this week, and today it was installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, everything above the flat surface (harp looking side pieces with straight rod between) is what I'm calling a 'towel rack.' Looks like it was always there. Exhale, job done! Thx for looking.


That's a beautiful piece, Smitty. Nice job. Most of my house is furnished with similar vintage oak furniture.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Attaining 100%*
> 
> Had an inherited oak washstand in the upstairs bathroom. Not complete, as there was no towel rack on the back, as there once was. Literally found one at an auction, stripped, in pieces, but too wide. I cut and reshaped it years ago, never applied finish. Ah, the dreaded "99% Complete" project.
> 
> Well, that was addressed this week, and today it was installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, everything above the flat surface (harp looking side pieces with straight rod between) is what I'm calling a 'towel rack.' Looks like it was always there. Exhale, job done! Thx for looking.


Sanded and refinished the base cabinet when I first got it, 15+ years ago. Thx Bob, gotta love this stuff!


----------



## 85497

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Attaining 100%*
> 
> Had an inherited oak washstand in the upstairs bathroom. Not complete, as there was no towel rack on the back, as there once was. Literally found one at an auction, stripped, in pieces, but too wide. I cut and reshaped it years ago, never applied finish. Ah, the dreaded "99% Complete" project.
> 
> Well, that was addressed this week, and today it was installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, everything above the flat surface (harp looking side pieces with straight rod between) is what I'm calling a 'towel rack.' Looks like it was always there. Exhale, job done! Thx for looking.


Very nice work Smitty, as usual.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Attaining 100%*
> 
> Had an inherited oak washstand in the upstairs bathroom. Not complete, as there was no towel rack on the back, as there once was. Literally found one at an auction, stripped, in pieces, but too wide. I cut and reshaped it years ago, never applied finish. Ah, the dreaded "99% Complete" project.
> 
> Well, that was addressed this week, and today it was installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, everything above the flat surface (harp looking side pieces with straight rod between) is what I'm calling a 'towel rack.' Looks like it was always there. Exhale, job done! Thx for looking.


Thank you, Pat!


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Attaining 100%*
> 
> Had an inherited oak washstand in the upstairs bathroom. Not complete, as there was no towel rack on the back, as there once was. Literally found one at an auction, stripped, in pieces, but too wide. I cut and reshaped it years ago, never applied finish. Ah, the dreaded "99% Complete" project.
> 
> Well, that was addressed this week, and today it was installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, everything above the flat surface (harp looking side pieces with straight rod between) is what I'm calling a 'towel rack.' Looks like it was always there. Exhale, job done! Thx for looking.


I like it.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Attaining 100%*
> 
> Had an inherited oak washstand in the upstairs bathroom. Not complete, as there was no towel rack on the back, as there once was. Literally found one at an auction, stripped, in pieces, but too wide. I cut and reshaped it years ago, never applied finish. Ah, the dreaded "99% Complete" project.
> 
> Well, that was addressed this week, and today it was installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, everything above the flat surface (harp looking side pieces with straight rod between) is what I'm calling a 'towel rack.' Looks like it was always there. Exhale, job done! Thx for looking.


I finished something once but I think it was an accident.

The washstand came out very nice Smitty, the rack looks like it was born there.


----------



## stefang

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Attaining 100%*
> 
> Had an inherited oak washstand in the upstairs bathroom. Not complete, as there was no towel rack on the back, as there once was. Literally found one at an auction, stripped, in pieces, but too wide. I cut and reshaped it years ago, never applied finish. Ah, the dreaded "99% Complete" project.
> 
> Well, that was addressed this week, and today it was installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, everything above the flat surface (harp looking side pieces with straight rod between) is what I'm calling a 'towel rack.' Looks like it was always there. Exhale, job done! Thx for looking.


Very nice Smitty. Got to love and appreciate these old pieces from a different world.


----------



## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Attaining 100%*
> 
> Had an inherited oak washstand in the upstairs bathroom. Not complete, as there was no towel rack on the back, as there once was. Literally found one at an auction, stripped, in pieces, but too wide. I cut and reshaped it years ago, never applied finish. Ah, the dreaded "99% Complete" project.
> 
> Well, that was addressed this week, and today it was installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, everything above the flat surface (harp looking side pieces with straight rod between) is what I'm calling a 'towel rack.' Looks like it was always there. Exhale, job done! Thx for looking.


The harp shaped piece looks just like the ones on my dressers which hold beveled mirrors. They belonged to my grandfather. Nice job Smitty!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Attaining 100%*
> 
> Had an inherited oak washstand in the upstairs bathroom. Not complete, as there was no towel rack on the back, as there once was. Literally found one at an auction, stripped, in pieces, but too wide. I cut and reshaped it years ago, never applied finish. Ah, the dreaded "99% Complete" project.
> 
> Well, that was addressed this week, and today it was installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, everything above the flat surface (harp looking side pieces with straight rod between) is what I'm calling a 'towel rack.' Looks like it was always there. Exhale, job done! Thx for looking.


Thank you, gents. Good to hear from each of you!


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Attaining 100%*
> 
> Had an inherited oak washstand in the upstairs bathroom. Not complete, as there was no towel rack on the back, as there once was. Literally found one at an auction, stripped, in pieces, but too wide. I cut and reshaped it years ago, never applied finish. Ah, the dreaded "99% Complete" project.
> 
> Well, that was addressed this week, and today it was installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, everything above the flat surface (harp looking side pieces with straight rod between) is what I'm calling a 'towel rack.' Looks like it was always there. Exhale, job done! Thx for looking.


What a lovely idea, sweet towel hanger, like music.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Attaining 100%*
> 
> Had an inherited oak washstand in the upstairs bathroom. Not complete, as there was no towel rack on the back, as there once was. Literally found one at an auction, stripped, in pieces, but too wide. I cut and reshaped it years ago, never applied finish. Ah, the dreaded "99% Complete" project.
> 
> Well, that was addressed this week, and today it was installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, everything above the flat surface (harp looking side pieces with straight rod between) is what I'm calling a 'towel rack.' Looks like it was always there. Exhale, job done! Thx for looking.


Hi Mads! Thanks!!


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Attaining 100%*
> 
> Had an inherited oak washstand in the upstairs bathroom. Not complete, as there was no towel rack on the back, as there once was. Literally found one at an auction, stripped, in pieces, but too wide. I cut and reshaped it years ago, never applied finish. Ah, the dreaded "99% Complete" project.
> 
> Well, that was addressed this week, and today it was installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, everything above the flat surface (harp looking side pieces with straight rod between) is what I'm calling a 'towel rack.' Looks like it was always there. Exhale, job done! Thx for looking.


;-)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Continuing to Outfit the Toolchest*

If you know me, you know there's no substitute for brass and rosewood. No surprise then, my marking gauges of choice are the relatively scarce Stanley Nos. 197 (single post) and 198 models. I have one of each in my bench cabinet, and wanted the same set in the chest. Well, good times, as ebay came through with a 198 last week and that was the piece I needed.










Not a big deal, but a nice feeling to continue placing quality user tools in the chest!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Continuing to Outfit the Toolchest*
> 
> If you know me, you know there's no substitute for brass and rosewood. No surprise then, my marking gauges of choice are the relatively scarce Stanley Nos. 197 (single post) and 198 models. I have one of each in my bench cabinet, and wanted the same set in the chest. Well, good times, as ebay came through with a 198 last week and that was the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, but a nice feeling to continue placing quality user tools in the chest!


Nice score(pun intended). 

Like my Goodell Pratt's. One, two and three beam models.


----------



## 489tad

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Continuing to Outfit the Toolchest*
> 
> If you know me, you know there's no substitute for brass and rosewood. No surprise then, my marking gauges of choice are the relatively scarce Stanley Nos. 197 (single post) and 198 models. I have one of each in my bench cabinet, and wanted the same set in the chest. Well, good times, as ebay came through with a 198 last week and that was the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, but a nice feeling to continue placing quality user tools in the chest!


Congratulations!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Continuing to Outfit the Toolchest*
> 
> If you know me, you know there's no substitute for brass and rosewood. No surprise then, my marking gauges of choice are the relatively scarce Stanley Nos. 197 (single post) and 198 models. I have one of each in my bench cabinet, and wanted the same set in the chest. Well, good times, as ebay came through with a 198 last week and that was the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, but a nice feeling to continue placing quality user tools in the chest!


Yep, and when the bug bites!


----------



## HokieKen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Continuing to Outfit the Toolchest*
> 
> If you know me, you know there's no substitute for brass and rosewood. No surprise then, my marking gauges of choice are the relatively scarce Stanley Nos. 197 (single post) and 198 models. I have one of each in my bench cabinet, and wanted the same set in the chest. Well, good times, as ebay came through with a 198 last week and that was the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, but a nice feeling to continue placing quality user tools in the chest!


Ebay is both an angel and a demon. Glad it could scratch your itch


----------



## sawdust1whisperer

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Continuing to Outfit the Toolchest*
> 
> If you know me, you know there's no substitute for brass and rosewood. No surprise then, my marking gauges of choice are the relatively scarce Stanley Nos. 197 (single post) and 198 models. I have one of each in my bench cabinet, and wanted the same set in the chest. Well, good times, as ebay came through with a 198 last week and that was the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, but a nice feeling to continue placing quality user tools in the chest!


Those are a nice additions to your collection.

Is that a sharpened down old Stanley awl?

My great uncle left me some great old tools here's a Miller Falls No. 16 block plane and an old Stanley No. 7 awl.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Continuing to Outfit the Toolchest*
> 
> If you know me, you know there's no substitute for brass and rosewood. No surprise then, my marking gauges of choice are the relatively scarce Stanley Nos. 197 (single post) and 198 models. I have one of each in my bench cabinet, and wanted the same set in the chest. Well, good times, as ebay came through with a 198 last week and that was the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, but a nice feeling to continue placing quality user tools in the chest!


Congratulations.


----------



## duckmilk

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Continuing to Outfit the Toolchest*
> 
> If you know me, you know there's no substitute for brass and rosewood. No surprise then, my marking gauges of choice are the relatively scarce Stanley Nos. 197 (single post) and 198 models. I have one of each in my bench cabinet, and wanted the same set in the chest. Well, good times, as ebay came through with a 198 last week and that was the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, but a nice feeling to continue placing quality user tools in the chest!


Stalking ebay and sniping at the last moment…brings back fond memories ;-))


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Continuing to Outfit the Toolchest*
> 
> If you know me, you know there's no substitute for brass and rosewood. No surprise then, my marking gauges of choice are the relatively scarce Stanley Nos. 197 (single post) and 198 models. I have one of each in my bench cabinet, and wanted the same set in the chest. Well, good times, as ebay came through with a 198 last week and that was the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, but a nice feeling to continue placing quality user tools in the chest!


I have a couple Hurwood awls of different sizes, they're keepers as well! Nice block plane too.

Thx Tony! And yes, Ken and Duck, fleabay. In my case, the price was very fair on the 'buy it now' so it was a quick sale. Saved time and a few anxious seconds, but the dozen 'watchers' of the auction were left with nada.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Continuing to Outfit the Toolchest*
> 
> If you know me, you know there's no substitute for brass and rosewood. No surprise then, my marking gauges of choice are the relatively scarce Stanley Nos. 197 (single post) and 198 models. I have one of each in my bench cabinet, and wanted the same set in the chest. Well, good times, as ebay came through with a 198 last week and that was the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, but a nice feeling to continue placing quality user tools in the chest!


James, I just re-looked and it's indeed a Stanley No. 117 awl!


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Continuing to Outfit the Toolchest*
> 
> If you know me, you know there's no substitute for brass and rosewood. No surprise then, my marking gauges of choice are the relatively scarce Stanley Nos. 197 (single post) and 198 models. I have one of each in my bench cabinet, and wanted the same set in the chest. Well, good times, as ebay came through with a 198 last week and that was the piece I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal, but a nice feeling to continue placing quality user tools in the chest!


;-)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*

Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.










Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.










Scary tool. Seriously.

CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.










Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!










It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


----------



## Mosquito

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


Very nice Smitty! I've got a Powr-Kraft RAS in my shop, used to be my grandfathers. I'd love to pick up an MBF, especially for $50!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


He said tonight, as I handed over payment, "sure got a lot of calls for this saw." He was the second owner, with his uncle being the first. Glad he did accept another offer!


----------



## DavePolaschek

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


Nice score, Smitty!


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


Incredible shape Smitty. All CL listed RAS's around here look like they were stored in Lake Tahoe.


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


Oh and forgot to ask, MBF?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


Yes. Exactly the same saws.


----------



## robscastle

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


Oh wow nice saw I can see why it needs an escort some very nice cuts there 
Looking forward to seeing some power through shots


----------



## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


Excellent find. Mine is more like the 1980s model but still used all the time.


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


Fantastic upgrade for pops!


----------



## HokieKen

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


Fantastic Smitty! My grandfather has one like that C-man that he keeps trying to convince me to take. I keep telling him it doesn't work and I don't have room. Really, I just don't like using the dang thing. Several years ago, when my Grandmother was still alive, she asked me to go out to their shop and sabotage it because she was scared of him using it and cutting a finger off. So it sits with a cut wire hidden behind heat shrink tubing inside the arm housing to this day ;-)

I wish it was one of those old DeWalt or Rockwell models though. I could probably make room for that in my shop.


----------



## Bstrom

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


Good to see another DeWalt RAS enthusiast. I currently own a MBF, 925 and GWI trio of saws. Each has a purpose - crosscutting on the GWI, dados on the 925 and shaping on the MBF. Great machines…put paddle switches on the end of the arm on two of them. Much safer to operate.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


Bstrom, do know what the significance of the REL number on the DEWalt dataplates?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


Out with the old.










In with the new!


----------



## Bstrom

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!





> Bstrom, do know what the significance of the REL number on the DEWalt dataplates?
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


It is a sub-series designation for the model as far as I know. Might have made some part swaps but the overall design/capability usually didn't change until the model was discontinued or more heavily modified as finding/ordering parts don't normally require those details. Features like switchable voltages, motor hp and types, and arm bearing design are important details to look for - overall, once B&Decker took over they cheapened them to more significant degree and are not desirable for the purists. The originals and AMF models are some rugged tools and in good condition can be serviced with new motor bearings and other repairs to bring them back. Plan on $100 or more to bring one back to operating condition with new motor bearings, new wiring, new tabletop/fence, and a premium blade. All of mine have proven to be very useful after some maintenance and adjustment. Safety is a priority so learn how to operate one correctly or you're in for some surprises.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


Appreciate the safety briefing, not lost on me. Learned lessons on the dangers early and repeatedly, lived (intact) to tell the tale. Thanks bstrom.


----------



## robscastle

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


You may be interested in this video


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


Good stuff, thanks for posting that!


----------



## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Collection of DeWalt MBFs?*
> 
> Well, it started a number of years ago with this MBF, bought via CL ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it, use it just about every time I'm in the shop. Now I am doing a bit in my father's shop space, using his 80s-era Craftsman RAS that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scary tool. Seriously.
> 
> CL ad last weekend said RAS for $50. I picked it up tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks new, considering it's 65 years old!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's heading to Dad's tomorrow!


Wauuu, I love these, really fine.
I bought a seventies model, that are now waiting for me to get more room…
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Grill / Griddle Table Pt. 1*

We got a Blackstone griddle this week, and I must say cooking on the thing is kinda fun. And fast! Here's a shot of the second meal we did: steak and asparagus.










But with oh-so-many things these days, the actual griddle was just the beginning. With a Blackstone, it's all about the accessories! And there are a bunch of the out there. You can see on the pic above that I buckled right away for the griddle dome / cover that sits over food to contain the heat. Melting cheese is the top example. but so is containing the steam when doing veggies. Or rice. Or etc. etc. We also had a raised wire rack that works perfectly inside the hood. There will be squeeze bottles too, and spatulas, and scrub pads for cleaning. Then there's a need to have a surface to stage what's being cooked! Question is, where to put all this stuff?

I have one of these roll-around coolers…










... that I've set next to the Blackstone, at a 90 degree angle, to create a type of work surface. Thought about adding a wood top on the cooler. That'd get me a roll around function that I thought might be useful, and it'd make the cooler a bit more versatile. Then my Charming and Beautiful Wife reminded me that a griddle will often be used with visitors, and lifting the top to get drinks would be quite the pain. So, building 'something' was the new focus. I did have (from somewhere, don't remember specifics at the moment) a great piece of loblolly pine tabletop, a full 1" thick, that would only need a bit of rehab to get it useable. So we had a start.

Here's the piece after I'd chucked it up at the bench for rework (one fresh end, and one jointed and slightly rounded, matching edge).









What to do for a base? Needs to be strong (obviously) and rigid. I'd like a bottom shelf for storing a couple totes that will hold said accessories when not used, and have a slight overhand to accommodate hooks for spatulas and the like. The reason that's important is the kits that are sold often have two matching stainless steel spatulas as well as a monster (wide) burger flipper AND a scraper for cleaning. Then there's a pair of tongs, etc. etc. The pack of magnets are cool, but there's only so much room around the grill for these things. And, to be honest, they're pricey.










Looked around the shop, and saw grandpa's workbench / table that I rehab'd to serve as the base for the Not-Wall-Hung. That's what I'll do, he said. And then I remembered there's a bit of the top that was removed back in 2013 that I could use for the legs of this "new" piece. Game on. Oh, and I'll angle the front legs for a bit more stability, and to give it a bit more visual interest. Here's a closeup of grandpa's bench (specifically the undercarriage). And no, I didn't move any of the crap out the way so you could see it better… just gotta work with me a bit, okay? 



















So, planed the top down to a new, even finish (jack plane, jointer plane, smoother, and even a bit of jr. jack action) and applied several coats of danish oil for a finish.









Then I set it aside to work the base. Did a bit of measuring and thinking, and came up with an angle of unknown specificity that'd splay the front legs just right. Captured said angle on the bevel gauge and that became the master reference as I marked up the legs for cross cutting. Also decided to do some half-lap joinery vs. what grandpa did, just because I like the look and wanted to aggravate myself. So, lots of table saw and RAS work, along with a bit of chisels fitting after hand saw work with panel (Atkins, rip) and sash (Bridge Tool of St. Louis, 12").


















Got all the joinery tweaked (No. 9 3/4 squirrel tail block) and finalized before gluing up / clamping everything together at the end of the first day's work.









The next day I added 1x aprons to the front and back of the base 'leg' assemblies. Here's a clamp up to see that everything was coming together as envisioned.









And yes, the aprons (and all the other wood used) is the same loblolly (heavy) pine. I've always saved boards of this kind whenever I came across it, and have quite a old growth stash of 8'+ 1×12s and even 1×14s to pull from. And the legs came from grandpa's table. To be honest, it's kinda nice to finally have a worthwhile use for even a bit of it!

Oh, and for those that get all excited seeing M-F stuff, note the pristine brace being used for the dowel holes. Yes, dowels. A suggestion from my daughter (when given the choice of nails, screws or dowels for attaching the aprons to the legs frames, she chose the most labor intensive option…). Of course, I had to make the dowels too, so a bit of Stanley toolporn before getting to the drilling. 


















So far so good.









The top is attached via buttons in a dado run along each apron. I'll get a couple pics of that part of the assy next time, I guess. That last picture of the whole piece as it sits now actually doesn't do it justice; the whole thing is actually looking pretty cool (maybe only to me, maybe? But I digress…) That said, the table still needs a bottom shelf so it looks like there'll be a Part 2 for this blog (yes, I'll be finishing this project up tomorrow). Until then, as always, thanks for looking!


----------



## Mosquito

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grill / Griddle Table Pt. 1*
> 
> We got a Blackstone griddle this week, and I must say cooking on the thing is kinda fun. And fast! Here's a shot of the second meal we did: steak and asparagus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But with oh-so-many things these days, the actual griddle was just the beginning. With a Blackstone, it's all about the accessories! And there are a bunch of the out there. You can see on the pic above that I buckled right away for the griddle dome / cover that sits over food to contain the heat. Melting cheese is the top example. but so is containing the steam when doing veggies. Or rice. Or etc. etc. We also had a raised wire rack that works perfectly inside the hood. There will be squeeze bottles too, and spatulas, and scrub pads for cleaning. Then there's a need to have a surface to stage what's being cooked! Question is, where to put all this stuff?
> 
> I have one of these roll-around coolers…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... that I've set next to the Blackstone, at a 90 degree angle, to create a type of work surface. Thought about adding a wood top on the cooler. That'd get me a roll around function that I thought might be useful, and it'd make the cooler a bit more versatile. Then my Charming and Beautiful Wife reminded me that a griddle will often be used with visitors, and lifting the top to get drinks would be quite the pain. So, building 'something' was the new focus. I did have (from somewhere, don't remember specifics at the moment) a great piece of loblolly pine tabletop, a full 1" thick, that would only need a bit of rehab to get it useable. So we had a start.
> 
> Here's the piece after I'd chucked it up at the bench for rework (one fresh end, and one jointed and slightly rounded, matching edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do for a base? Needs to be strong (obviously) and rigid. I'd like a bottom shelf for storing a couple totes that will hold said accessories when not used, and have a slight overhand to accommodate hooks for spatulas and the like. The reason that's important is the kits that are sold often have two matching stainless steel spatulas as well as a monster (wide) burger flipper AND a scraper for cleaning. Then there's a pair of tongs, etc. etc. The pack of magnets are cool, but there's only so much room around the grill for these things. And, to be honest, they're pricey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked around the shop, and saw grandpa's workbench / table that I rehab'd to serve as the base for the Not-Wall-Hung. That's what I'll do, he said. And then I remembered there's a bit of the top that was removed back in 2013 that I could use for the legs of this "new" piece. Game on. Oh, and I'll angle the front legs for a bit more stability, and to give it a bit more visual interest. Here's a closeup of grandpa's bench (specifically the undercarriage). And no, I didn't move any of the crap out the way so you could see it better… just gotta work with me a bit, okay?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, planed the top down to a new, even finish (jack plane, jointer plane, smoother, and even a bit of jr. jack action) and applied several coats of danish oil for a finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I set it aside to work the base. Did a bit of measuring and thinking, and came up with an angle of unknown specificity that'd splay the front legs just right. Captured said angle on the bevel gauge and that became the master reference as I marked up the legs for cross cutting. Also decided to do some half-lap joinery vs. what grandpa did, just because I like the look and wanted to aggravate myself. So, lots of table saw and RAS work, along with a bit of chisels fitting after hand saw work with panel (Atkins, rip) and sash (Bridge Tool of St. Louis, 12").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got all the joinery tweaked (No. 9 3/4 squirrel tail block) and finalized before gluing up / clamping everything together at the end of the first day's work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next day I added 1x aprons to the front and back of the base 'leg' assemblies. Here's a clamp up to see that everything was coming together as envisioned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, the aprons (and all the other wood used) is the same loblolly (heavy) pine. I've always saved boards of this kind whenever I came across it, and have quite a old growth stash of 8'+ 1×12s and even 1×14s to pull from. And the legs came from grandpa's table. To be honest, it's kinda nice to finally have a worthwhile use for even a bit of it!
> 
> Oh, and for those that get all excited seeing M-F stuff, note the pristine brace being used for the dowel holes. Yes, dowels. A suggestion from my daughter (when given the choice of nails, screws or dowels for attaching the aprons to the legs frames, she chose the most labor intensive option…). Of course, I had to make the dowels too, so a bit of Stanley toolporn before getting to the drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far so good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top is attached via buttons in a dado run along each apron. I'll get a couple pics of that part of the assy next time, I guess. That last picture of the whole piece as it sits now actually doesn't do it justice; the whole thing is actually looking pretty cool (maybe only to me, maybe? But I digress…) That said, the table still needs a bottom shelf so it looks like there'll be a Part 2 for this blog (yes, I'll be finishing this project up tomorrow). Until then, as always, thanks for looking!


Nice work so far, looks live a lot of progress for a days work


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grill / Griddle Table Pt. 1*
> 
> We got a Blackstone griddle this week, and I must say cooking on the thing is kinda fun. And fast! Here's a shot of the second meal we did: steak and asparagus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But with oh-so-many things these days, the actual griddle was just the beginning. With a Blackstone, it's all about the accessories! And there are a bunch of the out there. You can see on the pic above that I buckled right away for the griddle dome / cover that sits over food to contain the heat. Melting cheese is the top example. but so is containing the steam when doing veggies. Or rice. Or etc. etc. We also had a raised wire rack that works perfectly inside the hood. There will be squeeze bottles too, and spatulas, and scrub pads for cleaning. Then there's a need to have a surface to stage what's being cooked! Question is, where to put all this stuff?
> 
> I have one of these roll-around coolers…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... that I've set next to the Blackstone, at a 90 degree angle, to create a type of work surface. Thought about adding a wood top on the cooler. That'd get me a roll around function that I thought might be useful, and it'd make the cooler a bit more versatile. Then my Charming and Beautiful Wife reminded me that a griddle will often be used with visitors, and lifting the top to get drinks would be quite the pain. So, building 'something' was the new focus. I did have (from somewhere, don't remember specifics at the moment) a great piece of loblolly pine tabletop, a full 1" thick, that would only need a bit of rehab to get it useable. So we had a start.
> 
> Here's the piece after I'd chucked it up at the bench for rework (one fresh end, and one jointed and slightly rounded, matching edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do for a base? Needs to be strong (obviously) and rigid. I'd like a bottom shelf for storing a couple totes that will hold said accessories when not used, and have a slight overhand to accommodate hooks for spatulas and the like. The reason that's important is the kits that are sold often have two matching stainless steel spatulas as well as a monster (wide) burger flipper AND a scraper for cleaning. Then there's a pair of tongs, etc. etc. The pack of magnets are cool, but there's only so much room around the grill for these things. And, to be honest, they're pricey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked around the shop, and saw grandpa's workbench / table that I rehab'd to serve as the base for the Not-Wall-Hung. That's what I'll do, he said. And then I remembered there's a bit of the top that was removed back in 2013 that I could use for the legs of this "new" piece. Game on. Oh, and I'll angle the front legs for a bit more stability, and to give it a bit more visual interest. Here's a closeup of grandpa's bench (specifically the undercarriage). And no, I didn't move any of the crap out the way so you could see it better… just gotta work with me a bit, okay?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, planed the top down to a new, even finish (jack plane, jointer plane, smoother, and even a bit of jr. jack action) and applied several coats of danish oil for a finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I set it aside to work the base. Did a bit of measuring and thinking, and came up with an angle of unknown specificity that'd splay the front legs just right. Captured said angle on the bevel gauge and that became the master reference as I marked up the legs for cross cutting. Also decided to do some half-lap joinery vs. what grandpa did, just because I like the look and wanted to aggravate myself. So, lots of table saw and RAS work, along with a bit of chisels fitting after hand saw work with panel (Atkins, rip) and sash (Bridge Tool of St. Louis, 12").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got all the joinery tweaked (No. 9 3/4 squirrel tail block) and finalized before gluing up / clamping everything together at the end of the first day's work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next day I added 1x aprons to the front and back of the base 'leg' assemblies. Here's a clamp up to see that everything was coming together as envisioned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, the aprons (and all the other wood used) is the same loblolly (heavy) pine. I've always saved boards of this kind whenever I came across it, and have quite a old growth stash of 8'+ 1×12s and even 1×14s to pull from. And the legs came from grandpa's table. To be honest, it's kinda nice to finally have a worthwhile use for even a bit of it!
> 
> Oh, and for those that get all excited seeing M-F stuff, note the pristine brace being used for the dowel holes. Yes, dowels. A suggestion from my daughter (when given the choice of nails, screws or dowels for attaching the aprons to the legs frames, she chose the most labor intensive option…). Of course, I had to make the dowels too, so a bit of Stanley toolporn before getting to the drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far so good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top is attached via buttons in a dado run along each apron. I'll get a couple pics of that part of the assy next time, I guess. That last picture of the whole piece as it sits now actually doesn't do it justice; the whole thing is actually looking pretty cool (maybe only to me, maybe? But I digress…) That said, the table still needs a bottom shelf so it looks like there'll be a Part 2 for this blog (yes, I'll be finishing this project up tomorrow). Until then, as always, thanks for looking!


Thx Mos, yeah it's nice to focus on a single project and get 'er near-done so quickly! Now to avoid the 90% trap…


----------



## TomHitch

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grill / Griddle Table Pt. 1*
> 
> We got a Blackstone griddle this week, and I must say cooking on the thing is kinda fun. And fast! Here's a shot of the second meal we did: steak and asparagus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But with oh-so-many things these days, the actual griddle was just the beginning. With a Blackstone, it's all about the accessories! And there are a bunch of the out there. You can see on the pic above that I buckled right away for the griddle dome / cover that sits over food to contain the heat. Melting cheese is the top example. but so is containing the steam when doing veggies. Or rice. Or etc. etc. We also had a raised wire rack that works perfectly inside the hood. There will be squeeze bottles too, and spatulas, and scrub pads for cleaning. Then there's a need to have a surface to stage what's being cooked! Question is, where to put all this stuff?
> 
> I have one of these roll-around coolers…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... that I've set next to the Blackstone, at a 90 degree angle, to create a type of work surface. Thought about adding a wood top on the cooler. That'd get me a roll around function that I thought might be useful, and it'd make the cooler a bit more versatile. Then my Charming and Beautiful Wife reminded me that a griddle will often be used with visitors, and lifting the top to get drinks would be quite the pain. So, building 'something' was the new focus. I did have (from somewhere, don't remember specifics at the moment) a great piece of loblolly pine tabletop, a full 1" thick, that would only need a bit of rehab to get it useable. So we had a start.
> 
> Here's the piece after I'd chucked it up at the bench for rework (one fresh end, and one jointed and slightly rounded, matching edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do for a base? Needs to be strong (obviously) and rigid. I'd like a bottom shelf for storing a couple totes that will hold said accessories when not used, and have a slight overhand to accommodate hooks for spatulas and the like. The reason that's important is the kits that are sold often have two matching stainless steel spatulas as well as a monster (wide) burger flipper AND a scraper for cleaning. Then there's a pair of tongs, etc. etc. The pack of magnets are cool, but there's only so much room around the grill for these things. And, to be honest, they're pricey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked around the shop, and saw grandpa's workbench / table that I rehab'd to serve as the base for the Not-Wall-Hung. That's what I'll do, he said. And then I remembered there's a bit of the top that was removed back in 2013 that I could use for the legs of this "new" piece. Game on. Oh, and I'll angle the front legs for a bit more stability, and to give it a bit more visual interest. Here's a closeup of grandpa's bench (specifically the undercarriage). And no, I didn't move any of the crap out the way so you could see it better… just gotta work with me a bit, okay?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, planed the top down to a new, even finish (jack plane, jointer plane, smoother, and even a bit of jr. jack action) and applied several coats of danish oil for a finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I set it aside to work the base. Did a bit of measuring and thinking, and came up with an angle of unknown specificity that'd splay the front legs just right. Captured said angle on the bevel gauge and that became the master reference as I marked up the legs for cross cutting. Also decided to do some half-lap joinery vs. what grandpa did, just because I like the look and wanted to aggravate myself. So, lots of table saw and RAS work, along with a bit of chisels fitting after hand saw work with panel (Atkins, rip) and sash (Bridge Tool of St. Louis, 12").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got all the joinery tweaked (No. 9 3/4 squirrel tail block) and finalized before gluing up / clamping everything together at the end of the first day's work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next day I added 1x aprons to the front and back of the base 'leg' assemblies. Here's a clamp up to see that everything was coming together as envisioned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, the aprons (and all the other wood used) is the same loblolly (heavy) pine. I've always saved boards of this kind whenever I came across it, and have quite a old growth stash of 8'+ 1×12s and even 1×14s to pull from. And the legs came from grandpa's table. To be honest, it's kinda nice to finally have a worthwhile use for even a bit of it!
> 
> Oh, and for those that get all excited seeing M-F stuff, note the pristine brace being used for the dowel holes. Yes, dowels. A suggestion from my daughter (when given the choice of nails, screws or dowels for attaching the aprons to the legs frames, she chose the most labor intensive option…). Of course, I had to make the dowels too, so a bit of Stanley toolporn before getting to the drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far so good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top is attached via buttons in a dado run along each apron. I'll get a couple pics of that part of the assy next time, I guess. That last picture of the whole piece as it sits now actually doesn't do it justice; the whole thing is actually looking pretty cool (maybe only to me, maybe? But I digress…) That said, the table still needs a bottom shelf so it looks like there'll be a Part 2 for this blog (yes, I'll be finishing this project up tomorrow). Until then, as always, thanks for looking!


That must have been a lot of work to plane the top with hand planes. Good exercise. I love projects like this.  Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grill / Griddle Table Pt. 1*
> 
> We got a Blackstone griddle this week, and I must say cooking on the thing is kinda fun. And fast! Here's a shot of the second meal we did: steak and asparagus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But with oh-so-many things these days, the actual griddle was just the beginning. With a Blackstone, it's all about the accessories! And there are a bunch of the out there. You can see on the pic above that I buckled right away for the griddle dome / cover that sits over food to contain the heat. Melting cheese is the top example. but so is containing the steam when doing veggies. Or rice. Or etc. etc. We also had a raised wire rack that works perfectly inside the hood. There will be squeeze bottles too, and spatulas, and scrub pads for cleaning. Then there's a need to have a surface to stage what's being cooked! Question is, where to put all this stuff?
> 
> I have one of these roll-around coolers…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... that I've set next to the Blackstone, at a 90 degree angle, to create a type of work surface. Thought about adding a wood top on the cooler. That'd get me a roll around function that I thought might be useful, and it'd make the cooler a bit more versatile. Then my Charming and Beautiful Wife reminded me that a griddle will often be used with visitors, and lifting the top to get drinks would be quite the pain. So, building 'something' was the new focus. I did have (from somewhere, don't remember specifics at the moment) a great piece of loblolly pine tabletop, a full 1" thick, that would only need a bit of rehab to get it useable. So we had a start.
> 
> Here's the piece after I'd chucked it up at the bench for rework (one fresh end, and one jointed and slightly rounded, matching edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do for a base? Needs to be strong (obviously) and rigid. I'd like a bottom shelf for storing a couple totes that will hold said accessories when not used, and have a slight overhand to accommodate hooks for spatulas and the like. The reason that's important is the kits that are sold often have two matching stainless steel spatulas as well as a monster (wide) burger flipper AND a scraper for cleaning. Then there's a pair of tongs, etc. etc. The pack of magnets are cool, but there's only so much room around the grill for these things. And, to be honest, they're pricey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked around the shop, and saw grandpa's workbench / table that I rehab'd to serve as the base for the Not-Wall-Hung. That's what I'll do, he said. And then I remembered there's a bit of the top that was removed back in 2013 that I could use for the legs of this "new" piece. Game on. Oh, and I'll angle the front legs for a bit more stability, and to give it a bit more visual interest. Here's a closeup of grandpa's bench (specifically the undercarriage). And no, I didn't move any of the crap out the way so you could see it better… just gotta work with me a bit, okay?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, planed the top down to a new, even finish (jack plane, jointer plane, smoother, and even a bit of jr. jack action) and applied several coats of danish oil for a finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I set it aside to work the base. Did a bit of measuring and thinking, and came up with an angle of unknown specificity that'd splay the front legs just right. Captured said angle on the bevel gauge and that became the master reference as I marked up the legs for cross cutting. Also decided to do some half-lap joinery vs. what grandpa did, just because I like the look and wanted to aggravate myself. So, lots of table saw and RAS work, along with a bit of chisels fitting after hand saw work with panel (Atkins, rip) and sash (Bridge Tool of St. Louis, 12").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got all the joinery tweaked (No. 9 3/4 squirrel tail block) and finalized before gluing up / clamping everything together at the end of the first day's work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next day I added 1x aprons to the front and back of the base 'leg' assemblies. Here's a clamp up to see that everything was coming together as envisioned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, the aprons (and all the other wood used) is the same loblolly (heavy) pine. I've always saved boards of this kind whenever I came across it, and have quite a old growth stash of 8'+ 1×12s and even 1×14s to pull from. And the legs came from grandpa's table. To be honest, it's kinda nice to finally have a worthwhile use for even a bit of it!
> 
> Oh, and for those that get all excited seeing M-F stuff, note the pristine brace being used for the dowel holes. Yes, dowels. A suggestion from my daughter (when given the choice of nails, screws or dowels for attaching the aprons to the legs frames, she chose the most labor intensive option…). Of course, I had to make the dowels too, so a bit of Stanley toolporn before getting to the drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far so good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top is attached via buttons in a dado run along each apron. I'll get a couple pics of that part of the assy next time, I guess. That last picture of the whole piece as it sits now actually doesn't do it justice; the whole thing is actually looking pretty cool (maybe only to me, maybe? But I digress…) That said, the table still needs a bottom shelf so it looks like there'll be a Part 2 for this blog (yes, I'll be finishing this project up tomorrow). Until then, as always, thanks for looking!


Tom, not too bad at all. When the planes are sharp. Maybe 10 minutes to complete?


----------



## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grill / Griddle Table Pt. 1*
> 
> We got a Blackstone griddle this week, and I must say cooking on the thing is kinda fun. And fast! Here's a shot of the second meal we did: steak and asparagus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But with oh-so-many things these days, the actual griddle was just the beginning. With a Blackstone, it's all about the accessories! And there are a bunch of the out there. You can see on the pic above that I buckled right away for the griddle dome / cover that sits over food to contain the heat. Melting cheese is the top example. but so is containing the steam when doing veggies. Or rice. Or etc. etc. We also had a raised wire rack that works perfectly inside the hood. There will be squeeze bottles too, and spatulas, and scrub pads for cleaning. Then there's a need to have a surface to stage what's being cooked! Question is, where to put all this stuff?
> 
> I have one of these roll-around coolers…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... that I've set next to the Blackstone, at a 90 degree angle, to create a type of work surface. Thought about adding a wood top on the cooler. That'd get me a roll around function that I thought might be useful, and it'd make the cooler a bit more versatile. Then my Charming and Beautiful Wife reminded me that a griddle will often be used with visitors, and lifting the top to get drinks would be quite the pain. So, building 'something' was the new focus. I did have (from somewhere, don't remember specifics at the moment) a great piece of loblolly pine tabletop, a full 1" thick, that would only need a bit of rehab to get it useable. So we had a start.
> 
> Here's the piece after I'd chucked it up at the bench for rework (one fresh end, and one jointed and slightly rounded, matching edge).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do for a base? Needs to be strong (obviously) and rigid. I'd like a bottom shelf for storing a couple totes that will hold said accessories when not used, and have a slight overhand to accommodate hooks for spatulas and the like. The reason that's important is the kits that are sold often have two matching stainless steel spatulas as well as a monster (wide) burger flipper AND a scraper for cleaning. Then there's a pair of tongs, etc. etc. The pack of magnets are cool, but there's only so much room around the grill for these things. And, to be honest, they're pricey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked around the shop, and saw grandpa's workbench / table that I rehab'd to serve as the base for the Not-Wall-Hung. That's what I'll do, he said. And then I remembered there's a bit of the top that was removed back in 2013 that I could use for the legs of this "new" piece. Game on. Oh, and I'll angle the front legs for a bit more stability, and to give it a bit more visual interest. Here's a closeup of grandpa's bench (specifically the undercarriage). And no, I didn't move any of the crap out the way so you could see it better… just gotta work with me a bit, okay?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, planed the top down to a new, even finish (jack plane, jointer plane, smoother, and even a bit of jr. jack action) and applied several coats of danish oil for a finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I set it aside to work the base. Did a bit of measuring and thinking, and came up with an angle of unknown specificity that'd splay the front legs just right. Captured said angle on the bevel gauge and that became the master reference as I marked up the legs for cross cutting. Also decided to do some half-lap joinery vs. what grandpa did, just because I like the look and wanted to aggravate myself. So, lots of table saw and RAS work, along with a bit of chisels fitting after hand saw work with panel (Atkins, rip) and sash (Bridge Tool of St. Louis, 12").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got all the joinery tweaked (No. 9 3/4 squirrel tail block) and finalized before gluing up / clamping everything together at the end of the first day's work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next day I added 1x aprons to the front and back of the base 'leg' assemblies. Here's a clamp up to see that everything was coming together as envisioned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, the aprons (and all the other wood used) is the same loblolly (heavy) pine. I've always saved boards of this kind whenever I came across it, and have quite a old growth stash of 8'+ 1×12s and even 1×14s to pull from. And the legs came from grandpa's table. To be honest, it's kinda nice to finally have a worthwhile use for even a bit of it!
> 
> Oh, and for those that get all excited seeing M-F stuff, note the pristine brace being used for the dowel holes. Yes, dowels. A suggestion from my daughter (when given the choice of nails, screws or dowels for attaching the aprons to the legs frames, she chose the most labor intensive option…). Of course, I had to make the dowels too, so a bit of Stanley toolporn before getting to the drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far so good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top is attached via buttons in a dado run along each apron. I'll get a couple pics of that part of the assy next time, I guess. That last picture of the whole piece as it sits now actually doesn't do it justice; the whole thing is actually looking pretty cool (maybe only to me, maybe? But I digress…) That said, the table still needs a bottom shelf so it looks like there'll be a Part 2 for this blog (yes, I'll be finishing this project up tomorrow). Until then, as always, thanks for looking!


The brace and its depth stop are sexy.

...and still, that fan.

Glad to read your daughter shares the family trait of not skimping on effort.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Grill / Griddle Table Pt. 1*
> 
> We got a Blackstone griddle this week, and I must say cooking on the thing is kinda fun. And fast! Here's a shot of the second meal we did: steak and asparagus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But with oh-so-many things these days, the actual griddle was just the beginning. With a Blackstone, it's all about the accessories! And there are a bunch of the out there. You can see on the pic above that I buckled right away for the griddle dome / cover that sits over food to contain the heat. Melting cheese is the top example. but so is containing the steam when doing veggies. Or rice. Or etc. etc. We also had a raised wire rack that works perfectly inside the hood. There will be squeeze bottles too, and spatulas, and scrub pads for cleaning. Then there's a need to have a surface to stage what's being cooked! Question is, where to put all this stuff?
> 
> I have one of these roll-around coolers…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... that I've set next to the Blackstone, at a 90 degree angle, to create a type of work surface. Thought about adding a wood top on the cooler. That'd get me a roll around function that I thought might be useful, and it'd make the cooler a bit more versatile. Then my Charming and Beautiful Wife reminded me that a griddle will often be used with visitors, and lifting the top to get drinks would be quite the pain. So, building 'something' was the new focus. I did have (from somewhere, don't remember specifics at the moment) a great piece of loblolly pine tabletop, a full 1" thick, that would only need a bit of rehab to get it useable. So we had a start.
> 
> Here's the piece after I'd chucked it up at the bench for rework (one fresh end, and one jointed and slightly rounded, matching edge).
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> 
> What to do for a base? Needs to be strong (obviously) and rigid. I'd like a bottom shelf for storing a couple totes that will hold said accessories when not used, and have a slight overhand to accommodate hooks for spatulas and the like. The reason that's important is the kits that are sold often have two matching stainless steel spatulas as well as a monster (wide) burger flipper AND a scraper for cleaning. Then there's a pair of tongs, etc. etc. The pack of magnets are cool, but there's only so much room around the grill for these things. And, to be honest, they're pricey.
> 
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> 
> Looked around the shop, and saw grandpa's workbench / table that I rehab'd to serve as the base for the Not-Wall-Hung. That's what I'll do, he said. And then I remembered there's a bit of the top that was removed back in 2013 that I could use for the legs of this "new" piece. Game on. Oh, and I'll angle the front legs for a bit more stability, and to give it a bit more visual interest. Here's a closeup of grandpa's bench (specifically the undercarriage). And no, I didn't move any of the crap out the way so you could see it better… just gotta work with me a bit, okay?
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> So, planed the top down to a new, even finish (jack plane, jointer plane, smoother, and even a bit of jr. jack action) and applied several coats of danish oil for a finish.
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> 
> Then I set it aside to work the base. Did a bit of measuring and thinking, and came up with an angle of unknown specificity that'd splay the front legs just right. Captured said angle on the bevel gauge and that became the master reference as I marked up the legs for cross cutting. Also decided to do some half-lap joinery vs. what grandpa did, just because I like the look and wanted to aggravate myself. So, lots of table saw and RAS work, along with a bit of chisels fitting after hand saw work with panel (Atkins, rip) and sash (Bridge Tool of St. Louis, 12").
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> Got all the joinery tweaked (No. 9 3/4 squirrel tail block) and finalized before gluing up / clamping everything together at the end of the first day's work.
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> The next day I added 1x aprons to the front and back of the base 'leg' assemblies. Here's a clamp up to see that everything was coming together as envisioned.
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> And yes, the aprons (and all the other wood used) is the same loblolly (heavy) pine. I've always saved boards of this kind whenever I came across it, and have quite a old growth stash of 8'+ 1×12s and even 1×14s to pull from. And the legs came from grandpa's table. To be honest, it's kinda nice to finally have a worthwhile use for even a bit of it!
> 
> Oh, and for those that get all excited seeing M-F stuff, note the pristine brace being used for the dowel holes. Yes, dowels. A suggestion from my daughter (when given the choice of nails, screws or dowels for attaching the aprons to the legs frames, she chose the most labor intensive option…). Of course, I had to make the dowels too, so a bit of Stanley toolporn before getting to the drilling.
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> So far so good.
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> The top is attached via buttons in a dado run along each apron. I'll get a couple pics of that part of the assy next time, I guess. That last picture of the whole piece as it sits now actually doesn't do it justice; the whole thing is actually looking pretty cool (maybe only to me, maybe? But I digress…) That said, the table still needs a bottom shelf so it looks like there'll be a Part 2 for this blog (yes, I'll be finishing this project up tomorrow). Until then, as always, thanks for looking!


Hi Tony, thanks for checking in, my friend!

Of course, the base got painted so the dowels are a bit lost to the untrained eye. But, oh well. We know they're there!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Blackstone Table, Pt. 2*

Left off here.









No plan to go off of, so I gathered a wide piece of stock, added a front to prevent sagging and to hide the shelf cleats, then cleaned it all up.


















Set it in place.









Don't like it, cleat visible. Make a board wider? Why not.



















Pulled clamps, cleaned up faces with the jr. jack, and brought completed project over to the grilling area.

















Wife wants base painted black. Ugh. That 10% will have to wait. This will get a project post soon, thanks for looking.


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## theoldfart

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Blackstone Table, Pt. 2*
> 
> Left off here.
> 
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> No plan to go off of, so I gathered a wide piece of stock, added a front to prevent sagging and to hide the shelf cleats, then cleaned it all up.
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> Set it in place.
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> Don't like it, cleat visible. Make a board wider? Why not.
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> Pulled clamps, cleaned up faces with the jr. jack, and brought completed project over to the grilling area.
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> Wife wants base painted black. Ugh. That 10% will have to wait. This will get a project post soon, thanks for looking.


Kinda like a Nicholson grilling' workbench!

Nicely done Smitty


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## Mosquito

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Blackstone Table, Pt. 2*
> 
> Left off here.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> No plan to go off of, so I gathered a wide piece of stock, added a front to prevent sagging and to hide the shelf cleats, then cleaned it all up.
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> Set it in place.
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> Don't like it, cleat visible. Make a board wider? Why not.
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> Pulled clamps, cleaned up faces with the jr. jack, and brought completed project over to the grilling area.
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> Wife wants base painted black. Ugh. That 10% will have to wait. This will get a project post soon, thanks for looking.


Awesome, looks like it should get the job done quite nicely


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## DavePolaschek

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Blackstone Table, Pt. 2*
> 
> Left off here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> No plan to go off of, so I gathered a wide piece of stock, added a front to prevent sagging and to hide the shelf cleats, then cleaned it all up.
> 
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> Set it in place.
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> Don't like it, cleat visible. Make a board wider? Why not.
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> Pulled clamps, cleaned up faces with the jr. jack, and brought completed project over to the grilling area.
> 
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> 
> Wife wants base painted black. Ugh. That 10% will have to wait. This will get a project post soon, thanks for looking.


That sure came together quickly, Smitty! Amazing what a guy can get done when he's not working on a dozen different things at once. ;-)


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## donwilwol

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Blackstone Table, Pt. 2*
> 
> Left off here.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> No plan to go off of, so I gathered a wide piece of stock, added a front to prevent sagging and to hide the shelf cleats, then cleaned it all up.
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> Set it in place.
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> Don't like it, cleat visible. Make a board wider? Why not.
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> Pulled clamps, cleaned up faces with the jr. jack, and brought completed project over to the grilling area.
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> Wife wants base painted black. Ugh. That 10% will have to wait. This will get a project post soon, thanks for looking.


I love the way you recycle. It's really adds to the projects


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Blackstone Table, Pt. 2*
> 
> Left off here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> No plan to go off of, so I gathered a wide piece of stock, added a front to prevent sagging and to hide the shelf cleats, then cleaned it all up.
> 
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> Set it in place.
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> Don't like it, cleat visible. Make a board wider? Why not.
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> Pulled clamps, cleaned up faces with the jr. jack, and brought completed project over to the grilling area.
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> Wife wants base painted black. Ugh. That 10% will have to wait. This will get a project post soon, thanks for looking.


Thanks for the comments. The splayed legs give it nicholson feel! Done quickly, and at zero material cost! 










In use! Butterfly chicken w/ swiss, onion and pepper garnish, grilled potatoes. Yum! And, room to work!


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## TomHitch

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Blackstone Table, Pt. 2*
> 
> Left off here.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> No plan to go off of, so I gathered a wide piece of stock, added a front to prevent sagging and to hide the shelf cleats, then cleaned it all up.
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> Set it in place.
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> Don't like it, cleat visible. Make a board wider? Why not.
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> Pulled clamps, cleaned up faces with the jr. jack, and brought completed project over to the grilling area.
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> Wife wants base painted black. Ugh. That 10% will have to wait. This will get a project post soon, thanks for looking.


That's a great table. Reminds me of Roy Underhill's French workbench, which I have often admired. Great stuff.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Blackstone Table, Pt. 2*
> 
> Left off here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No plan to go off of, so I gathered a wide piece of stock, added a front to prevent sagging and to hide the shelf cleats, then cleaned it all up.
> 
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> Set it in place.
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> Don't like it, cleat visible. Make a board wider? Why not.
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> Pulled clamps, cleaned up faces with the jr. jack, and brought completed project over to the grilling area.
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> Wife wants base painted black. Ugh. That 10% will have to wait. This will get a project post soon, thanks for looking.


Thanks Tom!


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Blackstone Table, Pt. 2*
> 
> Left off here.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> No plan to go off of, so I gathered a wide piece of stock, added a front to prevent sagging and to hide the shelf cleats, then cleaned it all up.
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> Set it in place.
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> Don't like it, cleat visible. Make a board wider? Why not.
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> Pulled clamps, cleaned up faces with the jr. jack, and brought completed project over to the grilling area.
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> Wife wants base painted black. Ugh. That 10% will have to wait. This will get a project post soon, thanks for looking.


The shelf really solidified the piece.

Always fun to see your work and process, thank you man.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Blackstone Table, Pt. 2*
> 
> Left off here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No plan to go off of, so I gathered a wide piece of stock, added a front to prevent sagging and to hide the shelf cleats, then cleaned it all up.
> 
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> Set it in place.
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> Don't like it, cleat visible. Make a board wider? Why not.
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> Pulled clamps, cleaned up faces with the jr. jack, and brought completed project over to the grilling area.
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> 
> Wife wants base painted black. Ugh. That 10% will have to wait. This will get a project post soon, thanks for looking.


Key design point. Not shelf, no piece.


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Blackstone Table, Pt. 2*
> 
> Left off here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No plan to go off of, so I gathered a wide piece of stock, added a front to prevent sagging and to hide the shelf cleats, then cleaned it all up.
> 
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> Set it in place.
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> Don't like it, cleat visible. Make a board wider? Why not.
> 
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> 
> Pulled clamps, cleaned up faces with the jr. jack, and brought completed project over to the grilling area.
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> 
> Wife wants base painted black. Ugh. That 10% will have to wait. This will get a project post soon, thanks for looking.


Very key.

I stand corrected.


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## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Blackstone Table, Pt. 2*
> 
> Left off here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No plan to go off of, so I gathered a wide piece of stock, added a front to prevent sagging and to hide the shelf cleats, then cleaned it all up.
> 
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> Set it in place.
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> Don't like it, cleat visible. Make a board wider? Why not.
> 
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> Pulled clamps, cleaned up faces with the jr. jack, and brought completed project over to the grilling area.
> 
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> Wife wants base painted black. Ugh. That 10% will have to wait. This will get a project post soon, thanks for looking.


I can see a vice mounted to that!
But do it while she sleeps…
Looks just wonderful Smitty.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

*Blackstone Table, Final*

Okay, third and final blog installment before this goes to completed project. But before I get started, let me just say April weather is really weird…









Moved table into a side shed to get a coat of black paint on the base. First, do some chamfers on the bottoms of each leg, to counter splintering as the table might get dragged around a bit. The Stanley squirrel tail block took care of that.


















And then sprayed the base!









Put the top back on, and put the bottom shelf (that will stay unfinished / not be painted) back on.









That's it, on the project! Thanks for looking.


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## DavePolaschek

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Blackstone Table, Final*
> 
> Okay, third and final blog installment before this goes to completed project. But before I get started, let me just say April weather is really weird…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moved table into a side shed to get a coat of black paint on the base. First, do some chamfers on the bottoms of each leg, to counter splintering as the table might get dragged around a bit. The Stanley squirrel tail block took care of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> And then sprayed the base!
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> 
> Put the top back on, and put the bottom shelf (that will stay unfinished / not be painted) back on.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> That's it, on the project! Thanks for looking.


Nice, Smitty! Three days? You're a machine! ;-)


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## AnthonyReed

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Blackstone Table, Final*
> 
> Okay, third and final blog installment before this goes to completed project. But before I get started, let me just say April weather is really weird…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moved table into a side shed to get a coat of black paint on the base. First, do some chamfers on the bottoms of each leg, to counter splintering as the table might get dragged around a bit. The Stanley squirrel tail block took care of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> And then sprayed the base!
> 
> 
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> 
> Put the top back on, and put the bottom shelf (that will stay unfinished / not be painted) back on.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> That's it, on the project! Thanks for looking.


That looks disgustingly cold, but those chamfers don't.

The shel…, design element, really ties the room together.

Is that a dome stain?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Blackstone Table, Final*
> 
> Okay, third and final blog installment before this goes to completed project. But before I get started, let me just say April weather is really weird…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moved table into a side shed to get a coat of black paint on the base. First, do some chamfers on the bottoms of each leg, to counter splintering as the table might get dragged around a bit. The Stanley squirrel tail block took care of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then sprayed the base!
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Put the top back on, and put the bottom shelf (that will stay unfinished / not be painted) back on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, on the project! Thanks for looking.


Yes, on a square of cardboard that's tacked on top of the shelf.


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## mafe

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Blackstone Table, Final*
> 
> Okay, third and final blog installment before this goes to completed project. But before I get started, let me just say April weather is really weird…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moved table into a side shed to get a coat of black paint on the base. First, do some chamfers on the bottoms of each leg, to counter splintering as the table might get dragged around a bit. The Stanley squirrel tail block took care of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then sprayed the base!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the top back on, and put the bottom shelf (that will stay unfinished / not be painted) back on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it, on the project! Thanks for looking.


Sometimes it snows in April.
(Prince - The sign).
Looks good.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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