# Basic cabinetry question



## birdman1charlie (Dec 6, 2017)

I have done some raised panels doors for my shop and had success. The wife spotted them and wants some made for a hall area BUT when she checks out similar cabinet doors at the home improvement stores, none of the doors sit proud to the door front. She likes the flat look of the store bought units.

Since this is only to do a couple of doors, I am looking at buying wood line's raised panel doors with under cutter bits. Wood line makes a statement in their catalog "Be sure to choose a profile with a reveal that is proportional to the size of the project."

I have never considered proportions. My raised panel bits came as a set. What's the rule of thumb? I don't see the point of buying another complete set but if the result looks hokey, she will start watching my tool buying budget much more closely.

Thanks for any help.
Charlie


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

When I want flat raised panle door I make the styles and rails so the grove is 1/8 from the back. My door panel is 5/8 thick and raise with a panel cutter made for 5/8 thick material. No back cutters need and I easily mill 5/8 thick materiel out of 4/4 stock.

I'm assuming by flat you mean the raised panel is flush with the face frame


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

The reason the panels are flush with the face of the doors at the home centers is because they run them through wide belt sanders. The issue of proportion comes in when you are making raised panel doors for a smaller cabinet like maybe a jewelry box. Something that's around 12" wide or so. For that application, some manufacturers make smaller bit sets that are used to make thinner doors in the 1/2" to 5/8" range.

You con't need a back cutter. Since you already have a panel raising but, just use it and then use either a router bit or even a dado set to relieve the back side. I do mine with 3/4" wood for all the parts. The groove that's cut into the rails and stiles is 1/4" and centered, so my panel gets a 1/4" raised center and a 1/4" relief cut in the back. You can also use a 1/2" panel and leave the back side flat with just the 1/4" raised center.

I'm OK having the panel flush with the frame. Some woodworkers prefer to have it stand slightly proud as an indication that the door was not mass produced. I guess it's akin to the thin pins in dovetail joints.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

One of the biggest plus for the flush raised panel (for me) is cost. I have had plenty of ruff cut 4/4 sock that wouldn't make 3/4 panel. Save me from buying 5/4 that more expensive and harder to come by here. If a client want to pay I'll make it any way they want.


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

> When I want flat raised panle door I make the styles and rails so the grove is 1/8 from the back. My door panel is 5/8 thick and raise with a panel cutter made for 5/8 thick material. No back cutters need and I easily mill 5/8 thick materiel out of 4/4 stock.
> 
> I m assuming by flat you mean the raised panel is flush with the face frame
> 
> ...


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> When I want flat raised panle door I make the styles and rails so the grove is 1/8 from the back. My door panel is 5/8 thick and raise with a panel cutter made for 5/8 thick material. No back cutters need and I easily mill 5/8 thick materiel out of 4/4 stock.
> 
> I m assuming by flat you mean the raised panel is flush with the face frame
> 
> ...


I have made raised panels that are proud of the frame and I have made raised panels with 7/8 styles, rails and panels. I don't think one even noticed before I pointed it out. Didn't seem to impress anyone.


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## Jared_S (Jul 6, 2018)

I personally don't like the look of panels proud of the frame. I also build all my doors and drawer fronts 1&5/32 (1.155") thick for extra deep profiles.

There really isn't a wrong or right way though, its whatever your wife or client wants.


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## birdman1charlie (Dec 6, 2017)

Thanks everyone for the replies. I was mainly wondering about the "proportional to size" wood line catalog statement but all of you have given me more to think about. I think I will do some test cuts before buying another bit.

Thanks and stay warm

Charlie


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