# Finishing Bubinga



## MOJOE (Jun 13, 2009)

Looking to make a jewlery box for my daughter from bubinga. I would like to keep things "natural" looking, and wonder how this might best be accomplished. Was wondering if a BLO finish buffed with wax would be suitable, though I've heard bubinga is kinda oily and don't want to do something that will never cure properly.
Thanks,
joe


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

Depending on the project, I sometimes use only wax. I sand it to a high grit, then lots of coats of wax.


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## MOJOE (Jun 13, 2009)

So I've had a little time to search, and it seems that several folks suggest laying down a coat of shellac (or the like) to "seal" in the natural oils…...then topcoat with a poly of some type. Sound about right?


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## MOJOE (Jun 13, 2009)

By the way, now considering leopardwood…..would the same apply?


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## DLCW (Feb 18, 2011)

Arm-R-Seal really makes the grain and color pop and provides a poly protection layer at the same time. I've use this finish on many, many bubinga projects over the years.

Another option is Tried & True Oil Varnish. This, again, really makes the figure and color pop and provides a durable varnish protection layer at the same time. I've used this finish on many coffee tables with bubinga slab tops. Just make sure you sand to 320 grit to get a glass smooth finish. Lot of work but WELL worth it.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Personally I would just use the shellac…..the bubinga will age to a brownish color over time and the yellowing effect of an oil product (varnish or just BLO) on top of the natural color would not appeal to me. Shellac is color stable, and plenty durable enough for a jewelry box. I've garnet on bubinga wand really liked it, but any of the more clear varities (blonde, super blonde, etc.) would be quite nice.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Please don't put polycrapithane on bubinga. A nice shellac finish and rubb out with a high quality wax will give a classic finish to the box.
Bill


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## MOJOE (Jun 13, 2009)

Thanks for all the responses…...I'll have to put the info into the memory bank, as the wife thinks a nice piece of dyed and oiled curly maple looks the best…...as many of you know, momma knows best  On a side note, I stopped by HomeDepot on the way home yesterday and looked through their maple…...to my surprise, I found a single 1×6 that was really clear and has some pretty heavy curl ($20 for 6').......guess the sun really does shine on a dog's a** from time to time! Gonna follow the woodsmith plans, so now I need to find some India Ink. Off to the craft store I guess.


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## superstretch (Jan 10, 2011)

It probably doesn't matter for the jewelry box, but some of the big box stores have curly maple.. *soft* curly maple.. like fingernail-impressionable with little force. Last time I did the maths at Lowes, it was $8/bf and all they had was very dark maple. Every once in a while, though, you find a great piece.


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## MOJOE (Jun 13, 2009)

This maple seems to be pretty light in color, and fairly hard….at least it burns a little when I rip it. Anyhow, I agree withsuperstretch, for a jewelry box (for a 4 year old) it should work just fine.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

I second the Arm r seal. have it on a waterfall bubinga bath room vanity top , used every day for 3 years now, looks like the day I did it, have also used it on brazilian cherry stairs used hard every day, also 3 years now,, look's like new,,, Just fYI


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

If you can spray, go with shellac and wax.
If you want to wipe, I like tung oil.


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## wingate_52 (May 14, 2011)

I use Cellulose Sanding sealer followed with coats of Melamine and wax.


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## FaTToaD (Oct 19, 2009)

I used BLO and wipe-on poly on a box I made a few months back. It was my first time using bubinga and I think it turned out pretty well. You can take a look here: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51022


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