# Spirals



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

*How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*

You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
Place timber in the jig and cut the first arc.








Move the piece into the fence, clamp and make the second arc cut.









Repeat 12 times.








Glue it up and cut it into a circle.
Put on a little tung oil finish








Thats about It.


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## goppetto (Apr 28, 2009)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


do you use clamps or something else i cant figure out how you keep the joints tight
i curious.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


If you come up with a good idea let me know, I am still working out how to do that..I wrapped a piece of ply with cling film.. GladWrap here and I just put glue on the joints and spread some cling film on top and stacked some weights.. large bits of timber .. on top and waited till the glue dried..I worked..so go figure..
I am toying with the idea of using small wooden cleats screwed on to a ply board.. up against the ends.
This does not need much clamping pressure.
Thanks for the question ..
Larry


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## scopemonkey (Jan 1, 2007)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


Wow…very nice. To get tight joints like that right off your bandsaw is amazing, especially since it sounds like you couldn't really apply clamping pressure to pull it together. No matter how much I fuss with adjusting mine, the cut would never be good enough to make a tight fit. Also, since each piece represents a 30 degree wedge, I would be interested to know how you set up the jig to do this so accurately.

When this goes spinning about, it will be really cool to just watch. Thanks for posting, and I enjoy your blogs.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


Thanks man,
I am in middle of the second installment right now .,.uploading a heap of pics to Photobucket to include in the blog,..,and THAT is a 30degree curved wedge…
stay tuned


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## diggrduggr (Mar 16, 2008)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


degoose,

This clamping method would require you to cut the circle shape twice but If you were to cut the pieces to a rough cut circle before gluing the following idea just might fly.

Am guessing that if you take 4 scrape pieces and make only the first arc cut (leave the other side straight) then lay them out at 90 degrees around the circle, it should give you some discent straight edged clamping surfaces. Before clamping the outer circle I might suggest clamping the piece flat at the center to prevent everything from popping up as you apply pressure from the outside. Once the glue dries, it's time to re-cut the circle to the finished diameter.

See, now you have justification to relax in your 'thinking chair' next to your buddy in turquoise and engineer a simple jig to accomplish the pre-glue circle cutting task.

and love your projects, great inspiration from all of your persperation.

Now back to another ice cold 'brains in a can'...............................


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


Thanks for the idea. If it's working now with very little but weight on top, seems that only a little pressure from outside would insure it stayed together. If you start boards all the same length, a firm wrap should be equal pressure.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


Need another bottle of brains mate.. can't quite see your solution,, but never mind thanks for the input.,
As with the cleats I didn't mention the wedges against the cleats… that just came to me.
Cheers


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


You mean yoiu're already putting a little pressure from the outside with cleats and wedges, not just weight on top?


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


No Bob but I will .. with the next couple of hundred that I envisage I will have to make once I show them around.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


Sounds better than trying to get a belt around it ;-)) How did you get that jig that accurate? That is even more amazing than the end product!!


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## jlsmith5963 (Mar 26, 2009)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


ok so while everyone is concerned about how to clamp the thing, am I the only one still trying to figure out have you get tight enough joints off the band saw? lol


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


Nothing to figure out just mathematics and geometry and things that we said we would never need once we left school Hey
Stay tuned.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


Wow, I think this is all beyond me. Especially the mathe geometry part. Why oh why didn't I pay attention in school! I do have a clamping suggestion though, but you might have to modify it a bit to suit. Firstly I want to tell you that I *love *that spiral and want to make one, but have grave doubts about my chances for success.

Anyway, here's how you make the clamps:

*1. *cut a stick about 1/2" square and a mile long.

*2.*Then cut another stick about 3/4" wide and 1/8" thick the same length as the other piece. Hot Glue the last piece onto the top of the first piece lengthwise.

*3.* Cut the long 'T' shaped profile into cleats with lengths of about 2" or whatever length you want.

*4.* Hot glue the cleats along and parallel to your glue seams in pairs each opposing one another on each side of each seam. You can probably do this on one side only of the lazy Larry and then weigh it down clamp it after gluing to keep it all flat.

*5.* Wrap rubber bands around the glued on cleats (you need a cheap bag of these). You don't need extra strong rubber bands, the office kind will do. You will see that the 'T' shape on the cleat is designed to keep the rubber bands in place so they can't slip upwards under pressure. Presto,your in business! You will be amazed at how much pressure is applied.

I've used this method for some very complicated compound angle bowl stave glue-ups and it really worked well. I hope my description is clear and helpful and not 'over the top'.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


A pic would make it easier to see,. lol
Actually I see I see I see. It just came to me what you meant.
I know where you are coming from.
Thanks for the input.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


how about a bicycle tire inertube and some air ?


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


or a cable and turnbuckle ?
or rope and twisted stick ?


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## spanky46 (Feb 12, 2009)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


We have a 6 inch wide stretch wrap that could be used like your Gladwrap! The more you wrap it around the edge the tighter it gets! I use it wrap long moldings to bring them home from the lumber yard or for smaller pieces to just store in the shop!


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


I would probably just tangle myself up with that … thanks for the input.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


Lew it is good to be # 1 now and then.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


Neat idea Larry.


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## savannah505 (Jul 31, 2008)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


Too cool, and I think I have a solution to clamping with a special clamp I designed, I will get back to you on that, once I have it protected.


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## Danni (Nov 29, 2009)

degoose said:


> *How to make the "Spiral Lazy Larry"*
> 
> You will need 12 pieces of timber roughly 5'' by 12'' whatever thickness you want. [ I milled mine to 5/8"]
> The first one I made was PH and SA-6 of each.
> ...


hey there
Love ur work, it's greast
just wondering if ur the same guy that had a stand at the Melb Timber and Wood show?

Drop me a line and let me know…
Cheers


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

*THE Jig and how you too can make one.*

I know that I disappointed a few with part one of the blog series.not showing how to make the jig. hey that is life.,. no just kidding.,
You now know how to use this nice little jig.
Now to the nitty gritty and how to make one of you own..

As much as I would love to tell you all that while sitting in my inspirational chair.. near the inspitational Altar
It came to me in a blinding flash of light.,.
Well what really happened was..
One afternoon while chatting to the staff at my local hardware store an elderly gentleman[ His name is Alan Adlem and he lives near me..about 10 miles away.].[older than me anyway] asked if they had any white wood…I struck up a conversation and asked what he wanted it for..
It turns out he is a wood turner and wanted it for a segmented bowl.. knowing the hardware only had two types of timber, soft and hard…I invited him to visit me and my little workshop.
He ended going home with a few pieces of silver ash, purple heart and some cherry [European wild cherry]
Before he left however he commented on my work and in particular the "Lazy Larrys". He informed me that he was a retired engineer, turned wood worker and that he had a jig that he had made that would cut spiral wedges to form a circle. [I had been thinking along these lines and thought the new beasty would be ideal for making the peices using the template router facility.] He further claimed that the cut on the bandsaw needed no sanding and fit could be adjusted if need be. I said I would love to see that…
He rang me a few days later wanting to bring his jig over for my inspection. I unfortunately was busy going to the Maleny wood show..
This happened once more, on the day I went to Brisbane for the working with wood show..
I rang him a few days ago..Friday to be precise. He came over the next morning with the jig and a sample of the spiral circle,,
















I took some pics and told him I could make it out of wood cause I don't work in metal,
He left me the template that is the key to this whole jig.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

degoose said:


> *THE Jig and how you too can make one.*
> 
> I know that I disappointed a few with part one of the blog series.not showing how to make the jig. hey that is life.,. no just kidding.,
> You now know how to use this nice little jig.
> ...


Wow! Still too complicated for my simple mind. I like your wooden jig better even if I still don't quite understand it.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

degoose said:


> *THE Jig and how you too can make one.*
> 
> I know that I disappointed a few with part one of the blog series.not showing how to make the jig. hey that is life.,. no just kidding.,
> You now know how to use this nice little jig.
> ...


it's all done with beer and mirrors !


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## Splinterman (Mar 13, 2009)

degoose said:


> *THE Jig and how you too can make one.*
> 
> I know that I disappointed a few with part one of the blog series.not showing how to make the jig. hey that is life.,. no just kidding.,
> You now know how to use this nice little jig.
> ...


That steel jig was sure made to last Larry…........but I think yours is more readily adaptable…...jmho.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

degoose said:


> *THE Jig and how you too can make one.*
> 
> I know that I disappointed a few with part one of the blog series.not showing how to make the jig. hey that is life.,. no just kidding.,
> You now know how to use this nice little jig.
> ...


That's about how I thought it would be done. Layout usinfg a full sized circle to get the segment. Then, leave a minor adjustment just in case


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## spanky46 (Feb 12, 2009)

degoose said:


> *THE Jig and how you too can make one.*
> 
> I know that I disappointed a few with part one of the blog series.not showing how to make the jig. hey that is life.,. no just kidding.,
> You now know how to use this nice little jig.
> ...


Keep bringing me beer until I understand it!


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

degoose said:


> *THE Jig and how you too can make one.*
> 
> I know that I disappointed a few with part one of the blog series.not showing how to make the jig. hey that is life.,. no just kidding.,
> You now know how to use this nice little jig.
> ...


Wel;l; a great start.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

degoose said:


> *THE Jig and how you too can make one.*
> 
> I know that I disappointed a few with part one of the blog series.not showing how to make the jig. hey that is life.,. no just kidding.,
> You now know how to use this nice little jig.
> ...


Nice jig.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

degoose said:


> *THE Jig and how you too can make one.*
> 
> I know that I disappointed a few with part one of the blog series.not showing how to make the jig. hey that is life.,. no just kidding.,
> You now know how to use this nice little jig.
> ...


David, it think it is smoke and beers!! I have not read enough of this to see how to make one but I want to. this seems that it can be applicable to a lot of products..
Larry, what blog shows the making of the jig with dimensions?............thanks, Jim


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## john1944 (Feb 12, 2020)

degoose said:


> *THE Jig and how you too can make one.*
> 
> I know that I disappointed a few with part one of the blog series.not showing how to make the jig. hey that is life.,. no just kidding.,
> You now know how to use this nice little jig.
> ...


I'm trying to view the spiral series of instructions and the pictures are all out of focus !
help, please !


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

degoose said:


> *THE Jig and how you too can make one.*
> 
> I know that I disappointed a few with part one of the blog series.not showing how to make the jig. hey that is life.,. no just kidding.,
> You now know how to use this nice little jig.
> ...





> I m trying to view the spiral series of instructions and the pictures are all out of focus !
> help, please !
> 
> - john1944
> ...


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

*Making the individual parts.*

The base is just 1/4 inch ply. any size is ok..I have a cirlce cutting jig [ a jig makes it easier]..see circle cutting blog Drill a hole in the ply to use as pivot point









The distance from the centre of the pivot to the blade is 9.5 inches Set this distance and cut an arc across the end of the ply.








The fence is made by making one cut at the same 9.5" distance and then drilling another hole back an inch or so.[don't move the jig!]. not really exact but enough to be able to drill some holes in the fence…and making a second cut.








Using the very important template set the fence and mark the front this will be your guide to fine tuning if needed.(I didn't need to fine tune , cut exact first go… lucky.)























I made the Bridge Clamps by gluing up some purpleheart..for strength.
I sanded the clamps and oiled them to make them pretty and attached a small piece of cork to the foot that in in contact with the timber..


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Making the individual parts.*
> 
> The base is just 1/4 inch ply. any size is ok..I have a cirlce cutting jig [ a jig makes it easier]..see circle cutting blog Drill a hole in the ply to use as pivot point
> 
> ...


Ok, I'm beginning to see the light. I am still finding it hard to believe the possibility of getting a perfect glue line straight off the bandsaw, but I have faith in you Larry, and so will try it out. The problem is that now I want to drop my ongoing projects to do this exciting and wonderful thing. Have you no pity? Check your blog no. 1 on this project for my clamping suggestion.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Making the individual parts.*
> 
> The base is just 1/4 inch ply. any size is ok..I have a cirlce cutting jig [ a jig makes it easier]..see circle cutting blog Drill a hole in the ply to use as pivot point
> 
> ...


I have no pity for I too have dropped all ongoing projects to have fun with this new and exciting method.,
read on and learn.


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## Splinterman (Mar 13, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Making the individual parts.*
> 
> The base is just 1/4 inch ply. any size is ok..I have a cirlce cutting jig [ a jig makes it easier]..see circle cutting blog Drill a hole in the ply to use as pivot point
> 
> ...


The possibilities with this jig is awesome…..cool.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Making the individual parts.*
> 
> The base is just 1/4 inch ply. any size is ok..I have a cirlce cutting jig [ a jig makes it easier]..see circle cutting blog Drill a hole in the ply to use as pivot point
> 
> ...


stefang ; i think the carter bandsaw guides make a difference to a smooth cut ,
how ever a little woble in the cut will fit the woble in the next cut .
we're hooked larry !


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Making the individual parts.*
> 
> The base is just 1/4 inch ply. any size is ok..I have a cirlce cutting jig [ a jig makes it easier]..see circle cutting blog Drill a hole in the ply to use as pivot point
> 
> ...


David, I'm just lucky to have guides in my bandsaw at all, never mind those good (read expensive) ones for pros. I think I will go with the matching wobbles instead, which is more in line with my usual experiences with machines.


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## KentS (May 27, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Making the individual parts.*
> 
> The base is just 1/4 inch ply. any size is ok..I have a cirlce cutting jig [ a jig makes it easier]..see circle cutting blog Drill a hole in the ply to use as pivot point
> 
> ...


I can't believe anyone would use purple heart for a jig.
Just kidding, it looks great--The jig and the project.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Making the individual parts.*
> 
> The base is just 1/4 inch ply. any size is ok..I have a cirlce cutting jig [ a jig makes it easier]..see circle cutting blog Drill a hole in the ply to use as pivot point
> 
> ...


Kent,.. and this from a man who makes jigs with figured flame curly maple, bubinga and walnut..
I only used the PH for its strength and durability,
Larry


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

degoose said:


> *Making the individual parts.*
> 
> The base is just 1/4 inch ply. any size is ok..I have a cirlce cutting jig [ a jig makes it easier]..see circle cutting blog Drill a hole in the ply to use as pivot point
> 
> ...


You've still got me hooked.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

degoose said:


> *Making the individual parts.*
> 
> The base is just 1/4 inch ply. any size is ok..I have a cirlce cutting jig [ a jig makes it easier]..see circle cutting blog Drill a hole in the ply to use as pivot point
> 
> ...


Yes me to.


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## billz (Mar 7, 2018)

degoose said:


> *Making the individual parts.*
> 
> The base is just 1/4 inch ply. any size is ok..I have a cirlce cutting jig [ a jig makes it easier]..see circle cutting blog Drill a hole in the ply to use as pivot point
> 
> ...


understand the parts and how they go together, however do not know how to make the 'template'
certainly a critical component. understand that both arcs are 9.5 degree radius, but would like some
help in constructing the template, maybe some cord measurements?


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Making the individual parts.*
> 
> The base is just 1/4 inch ply. any size is ok..I have a cirlce cutting jig [ a jig makes it easier]..see circle cutting blog Drill a hole in the ply to use as pivot point
> 
> ...


Sorry so long ago and I cant remember


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

*Assembling the jig*

Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
















In his pic you may see that I inserted a bearing to serve as a bushing so that the hole would not wear with the amount of use it will be seeing.[the jig pivots on the bolt in the circle cutting jig..








A few different angles.








If you don't get a good fit on all twelve pieces you can undo the knob at the back and adjust the fence in or out








Thats about It not really much to it at all


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## SPMaximus (Mar 2, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


"not really much to it at all"

Pfft, that jig is awesome


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


Peik.. just 4 pieces of ply and wood and some nuts and bolts and knobs and a bearing.
Not much at all.. but I agree It is bl**dy awesome.
It as change all my thoughts about how I make things.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


The thing I still can't understand is the template. Am I right in thinking that the width of the template determines the width of the pieces to be cut?


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


NO


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## Splinterman (Mar 13, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


Sheesh….....Larry….dont bite Stefang's head off…..ROFLMAO..!!


----------



## bowyer (Feb 6, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


Thanks for this great blog series!! 
Rick


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


the radius is large enough so the kerf is neglijable .
in tighter raduis it would matter .
.
good work mate !


----------



## cmaxnavy (Dec 23, 2007)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


Thanks for this post. You gave my a great idea for assembling my gear blanks with spiral shapes vs the straight pie cuts I've been using. Thanks for the post. I'll let you know how the gear blanks work in my new clock designs! Of course, you get all the credit. Max


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


Everybody seems onboard with this last blog while I'm still on the quay. Anything besides a NO Larry? Like what does the width of the template determine?


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


Ok, I finally got it. But the template does determine the the shape of the segment including the width. Am I not right?


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


Mike you got it …it's not about the width per se but the shape of the template. The width does determine the number of pieces in the finished circle but the shape is all you need.
BTW Mike didn't mean to be rude just trying to get you to work it out and you were on the right track.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


A little secret.
The arcs on the template are just segments of the circle with a 9.5 inch radius.. You work out the width for the number of pieces in the circle.


----------



## spanky46 (Feb 12, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


If I say I understand all of it do you think I'm smart or lying?
Nice work Larry.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


If I say *I* understand all of it do you think I'm smart or lying?


----------



## milehigh (Apr 3, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


Thank you for sharing your time and talent here on the forum Larry. I really enjoy your blogs and this one is no exception.

Paul


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


Larry a great jig and blog series.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


Thank you Karson means a great deal to me having you read and comment on my posts. And you too Paul!


----------



## spanky46 (Feb 12, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


The proof was in your pudding! Very creative Larry!


----------



## Ampeater (Feb 21, 2008)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


I have started to make a jig. Here is how I understand this system.

1. The template is a very critical part. The most critical part is making sure that the edges are exactly 30 degrees apart so that you end up with exactly 12 segments in the final LL.

2. The width of the pieces that will be cut using the jig is determined by the radius of the final circle. The larger the radius the wider the piece has to be.

3. I finished laying out the design in Sketchup using a 9-1/2" radius circle with the twelve segments. This design would produce an LL that is 19" in diameter. I then printed out just one segment full size. I plan to use this as my template when I finish the jig.

Have I missed anything?


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


Hey Larry
cool Jig well done. Do all these woodworking geniuses( not meant to be sarcastic) use great wood like Walnut and Purple heart just for Jigs. I guess I'm a cheep skate using poplar mdf and pine.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


JIm I use what I have in the shop.
Ampeater Just a little matter,, you don't mention the curve on the template sides.
Secret .. to make the curves print the segment you have from sketchup and lay it out on a blank 5'' wide and 12'' long, mark points equal distance [arbitrary 10" say] on each side of the segment. Cut across these points and also cross cut the point of the triangle. Now line the blank on the curve of the base , point of triangle and mark on the first side, clamp and pivot to cut the first curve.,. reposition to the mark on second side and repeat, you now have a template to position the fence.. hope this helps.


----------



## jjbuckeye (Jun 5, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


I'm new to woodworking and I've been admiring projects on this site for awhile and finally decided to join in. I'm really impressed with the 'LL'. I'm fascinated by the process you have explained but still confused about how the template is created. I have tried to figure this out but I'm still not getting it. It's probably a pretty simple concept that will be obvious to me at some point.

I have learned a lot reading everyone's comments and have been inspired to develop my woodworking skills.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


Good to see you are interested in developing your skills..


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


The template is indeed important but not the only way to make the segment,
1. make a 30 degree isosceles triangle with the long sides 10 inches long. This need not be exact but it does need to be equal.
2. place the triangle apex at the far end of the base along the curved edge and bottom left corner on the curve .
3. mark the bottom right corner on the base. [ remove triangle from base.]
4 this now make the points on which to position the curved fence. [from the far end of the side curve to the point marked at the bottom right hand end of the triangle]
I think this explains thing a little more clearly.., without getting into advanced geometry and trigonometry !!
If anyone has further concerns please feel free to PM me.
Larry


----------



## jjbuckeye (Jun 5, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


Thanks for the additional explanation. That does help tremendously. I appreciate you taking the time to help a new woodworker out.

Joe


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


keep up the good work Larry super blog


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## aflixa (Sep 15, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


With your permission larry. 
Contribution to fix the fence in the JIG correctly WITHOUT MATHEMATICS :
The maximum distance for the fence in construction of the JIG is half the value of the radius. Use a piece of mdf with a length equal to the radius and width equal to half the radius to mark correctly. See Figure.
Once fixed, of course, is for any diameter. keeping 30 degrees, ie the 12 parts.
I hope I have helped beginners like me.
Thanks for the post Larry.

http://www.municipia.pt/imagens/spiral30.jpg

António Fernandes


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


I thank you for the easier explaination of the template.


----------



## aflixa (Sep 15, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


Another image to clarify the idea.
http://www.municipia.pt/imagens/spiral30_2.pdf
:


----------



## GaryBuck (Jul 26, 2009)

degoose said:


> *Assembling the jig*
> 
> Drill two holes in the fence . one a little larger.. to take 1/4 " bolts . Mark these positions on the base and drill these holes to attach the fence to the base. One bolt is held with a nut and other with a Knob.[for adjustment in fine tuning the fence if necessary].
> Drill two addition holes in the fence to accept 1/4 " bolts for tightening the bridge clamps.[These holes got through the fence only] Refer to the photo.
> ...


HHHHHHMMMMMM!!!!!!!!! I guess I must be brain dead. I still am lost how this jig works? I think you all took a quick left when I was tippin a beer. L.O.L. I'm more of a hands on learner. Any way you couild post this baby in action? I think that would clear it up for at least me and a couple others? Thanks


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

*A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*

Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
A coupla new router bits..some very expensive toggle clamps [for a new jig to make the sunburst design that Patron aka David makes so effortlessly] and enough lazy bearings to make a heap of LLs on order. As well as a new toy called a 'bevel box.'. more on that in a later blog.?
My first choice..
Ok second choice new guinea rosewood and purple heart with 3/32" accent stripes of silver ash.








Second pic is made from the off cuts of the LL in the first pic sans stripes.. not sure If I will put them in.. what do you think?








Third pic is just some …...this time you guess..?? tell me what you think the LL is made of…also thought that an accent stripe of you know… PH..

again what do you think of that combo?








This a shot with some turps on to bring out the grain and color to help you figure it out [PUN intended].







Last one is just a silly Idea I had. Again opinions welcome!


----------



## spanky46 (Feb 12, 2009)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


Very nice look! I'll take two please!
Thanks for sharing LL.


----------



## bowyer (Feb 6, 2009)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


The SA accent stripe in the first pic looks sharp. I'd vote for putting it in the other one as well. PH accent stripe in the LL of the two lighter woods ( SA and Rosewwod?) would really set it off! and WOW on the "silly idea" Give it a go!!

Rick


----------



## Splinterman (Mar 13, 2009)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


Hmmmmm….......The Silver Ash inserts really helps to superimpose the Rosewood and PH.

Pic-5 …This might sound wierd but how about reverseing the centre disk…..flip it over…..jmho.

Turps sure brings out the grain…...cool.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


an inquireing mind at work !
be carefull , or you won't be lazy for long ,
you'll be in business !
i like them all , the strips do highlight as usual .
can't even guess at the woods ,you guys have so many ,
i never even heard of !
.
o.k. scout , good report !
now go over that hill over there and see what's happening ,
as usual you are on your own !


----------



## DaleM (Feb 18, 2009)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


No guess as to the type of wood, but I really like your "silly idea" in your last pic.


----------



## woodsmithshop (Sep 10, 2008)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


I like the stripes and the "silly idea", what do you do with the center? do they always meet close enough to form a tight center, or do you have to use a plug?
also , are the stripes cut with the jig or are they bent?
keep up the great work!!!
Smitty


----------



## cmaxnavy (Dec 23, 2007)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


The strips do make the gluing more difficult, I'm sure of that. But, the affect of the wood contrasts is distinctive and wonderful. My preference would be to include the strips and then continue that pattern in the other parts of the work such as, legs, sides, etc… Nice…..... no, gorgeous work!


----------



## cmaxnavy (Dec 23, 2007)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


Goose, Check the gears on my M7 clock. Note the maple stripes that I included in the gear spokes. I continued that theme is the frame of the clock, albeit, as reversed color. Repetition in art is common and works! Max


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


Larry Great as always.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


Degoose is da-man!!!

Beautiful work, Larry!


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


Another great blog. Thanks for sharing you great Know how Larry.


----------



## spanky46 (Feb 12, 2009)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


I like them all!


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


I cut the first arc and then using the off cut as a caul glue the fine stripe to the first cut. THese stripes are only 3/32" and fairly flexible.
Then cut the second arc after the glue dries.. this maintains the integrity of the segment


----------



## Woodfix (May 14, 2009)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


Thanks for that, very interesting.
Definitely a project I will keep in mind for when I have a band saw.
I admire your ingenuity.

Cheers


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


This is a very neat project .
I can hardly wait to follow your ideas to a "susan" of my own.
Thanks for taking time to guide us through the technique.

Bob


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


No "Susans" here only "Larrys"


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


so where is susan ?
i'm still looking for her .


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


Don't know any susans


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

degoose said:


> *A quick sneak peak of some new timber combos*
> 
> Just a quick peak at what I got up to today when I was not checking the hundreds of emails from all the LJs who commented on my last few posts.. Thank you very much.. I did not realize how much of my daily routine now revolves around this site.. Addictive…
> I also had time to drive the twenty odd miles into the big smoke..Brisbane and go shopping at Carba-tec..I know I have all the fun..
> ...


I tot a Larry was a "top" for a susan? ;-)


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

*We are not finished yet.*

Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
This is ultra simple.








Firstly a fresh piece of ply .. 1/4 " is fine.
I inserted a bearing to make this more durable .. same same as last one.
This was positioned 4.5 " from the end[centred on the width] and an arc cut on the end via the circle cutting jig.. same same.
Cut two fences same as the one of the first jig … yes same same.
Told you this was simple 
Measure back 10" or so.[centred on the width]. this is for a 20" diameter LL .. feel free to change this to what ever you want.
Make a mark at this point for the apex of the two fences.. refer the pics.. looks just the way it is.
Place a segment on the base with the concave side just over the pivot point and the pointy bit at the mark 10" of so from the curve of the base.. with me so far.
Glue the fences on either side of the segment and screw from underneath.
I cut a small finger slot to enable me to get the blank out once it had been cut.
To use the jig just place jig on pivot of the circle cutting jig.








Place the segment to be cut on the jig.








Very slowly cut the end arc on the bandsaw.








These pics are just a quick dry fit.
















With all the segment now of similar size a clamping band is able to be used then some clamps.








This last pic shows some gaps due to me being cocky and cutting too quickly.








Thats the end.,. so far.. will think a little more and have a few more insprtational sherberts.
Thanks for looking .. hope I have explained this enough.. if not give me a bell and I will try to be clearer.
One more pic with a little turps to bring out the color and grains.








Regards Larry


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


very cool Larry great info


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


Larry: another great jig, to compliment the series.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


Ditto what Karson said!!


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


lazy larry lily ?
larrydendron?

keep it up , my man …...
this is way cool …!!!
.
.
p.s. i've got 2 days off , so …....?


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## bowyer (Feb 6, 2009)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


This curved edge on the spiral LL is awsome!! and you got to make a new jig in the process. You better be carefull or you'll need to clean out the shop again to make room for the jigs. Can't wait for more

Rick


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## spanky46 (Feb 12, 2009)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


Another LL Underlandlarryism!
Very nice Larry.


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## cmaxnavy (Dec 23, 2007)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


It just keeps getting better and better…I love it.


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## Chips (Mar 27, 2008)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


Skill, Skill, Skill. Thanks for sharing.


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## Splinterman (Mar 13, 2009)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


What can one say mate…......."U Beauty Reta".


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## KentS (May 27, 2009)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


Larry, You have way too much time on your hands. Impressive!! Now I'm trying to figure out how to incorporate that design into a jig. Thanks.


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


Thanks Larry. 
You took the mystery out of the project and left me with a great admiration for a fellow willing to share.

Bob


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## woodsmithshop (Sep 10, 2008)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


looks great Larry, now how about a jig to put a border on the Lazy Larry, lol, is the band clamp not enough to clamp the segments tight?
Smitty


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


Smitty I have already built one and am just waiting for the time to build the new and improved scalloped and spiralled LL using the new jig!
Stand by!


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## woodsmithshop (Sep 10, 2008)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


looking forward to whatever you post. I am going to try your jig as soon as I am finished with my present project, which is reducting my shop for dust collection, I am not sure what it consumes the most, time or money.
Smitty


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


I am looking to duct my shop and any hints tips would be appreciated ,, maybe a blog and pics on the process.
Larry


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## woodsmithshop (Sep 10, 2008)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


I have had no luck trying to post pics on here, so if you don't mind I am going to refer you to the clearvue site, it has many many pics of several different peoples installation of duct work, try this link,
http://www.clearvuecyclones.com , then go to "clear vue community", and select "photo gallery", this site can show you much more than I ever could, Ed Morgano is very helpful and knowledgable, my motors outer case was broken when I received it and he replaced it immediatly, so far I am very pleased with the clear vue, I am converting from 4" pvc to 6" snap lock metal duct work, it is much cheaper than spiral or pvc, and I can get it locally, it is $7.17 for 5', vs $31.99 for 10' of 6"pvc, so far it has worked out ok, I still have more to install before I am done.
Smitty


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


""I am looking to duct my shop and any hints tips would be appreciated ,, maybe a blog and pics on the process.
Larry"

Might Help.
Bob

http://lumberjocks.com/boboswin/blog/6465


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

degoose said:


> *We are not finished yet.*
> 
> Next step is to make the ends of the segments curved. Shell-like if you want.
> For that we need a new jig.. Yeah I know some of you haven't finished the first one..!
> ...


Bob #2 and Smitty
Thanks for the heads up will study both these ideas.
Larry


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