# HVLP painting tips and product suggestions needed please.



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

I'm getting ready to paint a couple of 36"h x 44"w cabinets I made. I figured I would practice on the insides first.

I would like to paint in the bedroom they will be installed in. Garage has cars in it and it seems like overspray would be a problem. Outside has trees everywhere. The bedroom is stripped down to concrete sub-floor, so I figures I could lay some plastic down on the floor and walls and go to it.

What kind of paint should I use with this in mind? I was thinking a latex enamel, maybe something from Sherwin. I'd like the finish to be as glass smooth and durable as possible. Someone suggested ML Campbell pre-catalyzed, but isn't that a lacquer with strong fumes? I plan on wearing a respirator in any case.

Any technique tips?

Thanks.


----------



## bruc101 (Sep 13, 2008)

The painters here that paint cabinets in homes use a semi gloss acrylic latex enamel Benjamin Moore paint.
They use a regular gravity feed gun with small compressors, not an hvlp gun. They thin the paint with water enough so they can get a smooth finish.

You probably need to practice on something other than the inside of the cabinets until you get it worked out like you want it.


----------



## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

Where ever you do your painting, remove the cabinet backs if at all possible. Blowback can really mess up a good paint job.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

I guess I was mistaken when I thought HVLP was used to paint cabinets….


> ?


----------



## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

Not at all. HVLP is commonly used for cabinets - I use it all the time.

Note that "real" HVLP uses a turbine instead of an air compressor. Conversion HVLP guns use a compressor running at a reduced pressure. With conversion HVLP, you'll need a decent size compressor tank - or spend time waiting for the tank to refill.


----------



## bruc101 (Sep 13, 2008)

noone you were not mistaken. I use hvlp and conventional spray systems in my shop. It all depends on what I'm spraying and what system I think will work best for the project.
The painters here tell me hvlp doesn't work as well for them as the regular gravity feed systems work because of the paints they have to use.


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

If you can find General Finishes milk paint, slightly thinned, for your color then top coat with waterborne poly to get the sheen you want. Easily applied with HVLP using a 1.5 mm needle. Always use a scrap piece to test shoot before you spray your cabinet. Hold the gun about 6" from the cabinet.
I say this each time this comes up. Latex paint is not designed for cabinets or furniture.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

Any thoughts on using SW Pro Classic water based through an HVLP? Do I need to thin it with Floetrol? Water? Prime with SW Classic primer first? I'm trying to stay with SW products here because of the discounts I receive.


----------



## bruc101 (Sep 13, 2008)

I would be interested to know why Latex paint shouldn't be used on cabinets especially acrylic latex semi gloss.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

Yeah. I'm pretty confused. I don't know what advice to take here. I read that SW Pro Classic WB had a great finish. Then people here are now saying don't use that. The waterborne version says its an Acrylic Latex. Will this dry hard and leave a somewhat durable finish? I'm planning on using a HF HVLP turbine and would really like to get this right the first time. I will be spraying indoors, so would like to avoid an oil based product if possible. But I want a nice looking furniture grade finish…..


----------



## bruc101 (Sep 13, 2008)

Here's a kitchen we did 5 years ago in a 1.7 million dollar home. The lady brought us a napkin from France that is this same color. Our paint company could not get a direct match and she turned it down. She took the napkin to a Benjamin Moore store and they matched it in acrylic latex semi gloss. I sprayed the cabinets with a Devilbiss HVLP system and then sprayed 3 costs of pre cat semi gloss lacquer on them. This was done 5 years ago and the photo was taken a few months ago when she called us back to do her bathrooms. Same color same paint.
We've done many sets of cabinets in acrylic latex semi gloss and never had a complaint.
When I hand carve or sandblast a wood sign (outdoor signs) I use Porter Paints acrylic latex semi gloss on them with no clear top coats and they hold up for years without having to repaint them.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

I thought 'pre-cat' referred to oil based paints.

At any rate, it sounds like the SW Pro Classic WB I'm eyeing could be good. I just hope it works out in this bargain basement HF turbine HVLP.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I've been spraying finishes for 35 years and for the last 2 years I've been using a cheep $99 Earlex hvlp turbine and water base dye and water borne top coat clear on cabinets and other furniture . I've been using water borne top coats for about 10 years and It's a very durable long lasting finish even a minwax product (a manufacturer I'm not found of for other products) polycrylics worked great. Having sprayed for a long time and having used much more expensive spray guns I was very surprised How well the inexpensive unit worked .


----------



## bruc101 (Sep 13, 2008)

I agree with you. I've been spraying since I was 12 years old and I'm 65 now. I think I've used just about every paint, gun and spray system out there. The end results are your experience in paint and using your gun.
I've seen a 40 dollar gun spray as good or better than a $200 gun…it's the user of the gun doing the control of the finishing and his understanding of how to spray the type finish he's using with the type gun in his hand. 
I've not only sprayed cabinets and furniture as a career, I've sprayed cars, trucks, boats, airplanes and sometimes spray special projects in a small aerospace plant. 
I use a Devilbiss HVLP system with a 1 quart or 1 gallon pot and 16 foot hose from the pot to the gun. I use a Devilbiss conventional system either with a gun and the pots or a gravity feed cup gun.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

What size tip do you use with your waterborne acrylic latex?


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

1.5 will do the job for thin material like a standard lacquer and should work for most waterborne lacquers too.But some may need to be thinned a small amount up to 20%.


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

Hey Jim which Earlex do you use? or recommend? I am going to see if I can get over to Charles Neils shop for a visit when I get done here in Fl. I want to take the finishing class he gives.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Hey Sandhill
I know it should be a great experience for you. the Earlex I have they don't make anymore it was Only $99 I think it's the 3000 model , I just checked and there was one on ebay for $99. This is the only model I've ever used but I'm sure Charles can help and I know he has used several types of turbine systems.


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

Good point Jim I will wait till I talk with him.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

When you say 'waterborne lacquers' is that the same thing as the SW Acrylic Latex Enamel?
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/catalog/proclassic_interior_acrylic_latex/?WT.mc_id=Old%20DIY%20Products%20Redirect

When you say thin, do I just thin it with tap water? Distilled water?

What about using Floetrol?


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

When reading the specs on it ,it says water borne that means water base or thin with water. Unless you have some kind of water problems like rust or high chemical problem tap water should be fine. If your buying material from Sherwin Williams they can give you all the details about their products.All of their stores I've dealt with the sales folks were very knowledgeable about their products.

An flowing agent should not be necessary in most cases ,I have no experience with Floetrol

Some times when we haven't done something before we tend to over think it where just experimenting a little will really make a difference. I know from experience that's where I learn the finial details on things I've learned and sometimes you learn what not to do by making a mistake or two.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

Thanks Jim. As you probably know me by now, I'm a planner and over analyzer!

I just need to stop talking about it and just DO it!


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I've been there but you can spend and eternity getting ready to get going. I didn't mean you shouldn't ask questions but sometimes you will find questions you hadn't thought of after you give it a try.


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Spray latex paint on a peice of wood. Do two or three coats, whatever looks good. Let it dry, as long as you want. Then set a glass of water on it and leave it overnite. In the morning take the glass off it and see how much paint peels away. Sometimes a little, sometimes a lot, almost always something.
You only have to go back about 15 years to get to a point where nobody in their right mind would put latex paint on furniture. Today everyone (non professional) does it because it's easy and quick but it will never hold up like a proper furniture finish.
Lacquer or poly is a furniture quality finish. Paint is not.
Spray your latex then top coat it with poly and you'll be fine. Also, acrylic latex is different. It will provide a somewhat durable finish, but it sprays terribly. No latex paint has yet been designed to be sprayed.


----------



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I just got the last one of these sprayers in the Kansas City area. I'm too tired to mess with it today, but it looks pretty easy to use. I did pick up some paint strainers and I will likely thin the paint a bit just for good measure. I may actually read the manual this afternoon. I have a chair all ready for painting.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Russ you got the last on of what sprayers?

Sam 
It depends what your spraying latex with. An airless will lay latex down fine but I'm talking about house painting in that case.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

Again I'm talking about using acrylic latex through an hvlp turbine. Confused yet again because now Sam is saying that spraying latex is impossible, but others are saying it works fine.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I'm sorry I was thinking you were talking about clear coat. I lost track of your original post. I would not say spraying latex is impossible but I would guess you would need a 2.0 tip and thin the paint some. Why don't you ask Sherwin willams what they think ,but be mindful of them wanting to sell you some expensive spraying equipment. If it were me I'd use some water base staindye from General finishes and a clear top coat. It's much easier to shoot than paint and covers well but lets you see the grain. The thing about dyestain is each time you spray it it gets darker so you would want to get the heavy coat on the first pass and then wipe the excess off. Lastly if your set on paint think about brushing it on or even rattle cans of paint. Like Sam said paint is not a preferred finish for furniture. Sorry for contributing to the confusion earlier.


----------



## ducky911 (Oct 6, 2010)

Again I'm talking about using acrylic latex through an hvlp turbine. Confused yet again because now Sam is saying that spraying latex is impossible, but others are saying it works fine.

I have a earlex 5000 and it recommends to thin to 35 to 60 sec for latex. 60 sec maybe for a fence or something.

I mix acrilic latex paint with festol and water based poly gloss and distilled water. Unti Ii am down to the 35 sec. I use the 2.5 tip and spray 3 coats.

I am thinking of upgrading to a fuji 4 stage to min thining.

I not sure where to buy dyes that would look like paint? But would like to try.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

Ah man. More conflicting info.

I want solid white furniture grade paint on my built ins. Just standard solid white that you see in millions of houses' built ins.

I thought I read on the inter webs that you could use acrylic latex in HVLP without issues as long as you thin it. The general consensus here says that it plain won't work well and that concerns me…

I'll check with SW and ask them about using Pro Classic wb with an HVLP.


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

I did not say it was impossible to spray latex. I said latex was not designed to be sprayed and that it is not a proper furniture or cabinet finish.
With a 2 stage HVLP, thin latex about 10% with water or Floetrol, it will spray just fine. I painted my entire house, inside and out with a 2 stage. No problem. But I wasn't looking for a furniture quality finish either.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

Welll….it looks like you guys were right…..unfortunately.

I tried out the HF HVLP last night with some SW Pro Classic waterborne and the results were not too favorable, even when thinning it to 4 parts paint to 1 part floetrol and 1 part water. Even with this mixture the paint seemed to splatter out slightly and of course the finish laid down dull and dilluted looking. The finish came out pretty flat, but very dull on a test piece of 1/4" plywood.

In contrast, I brushed a small section of this plywood with the paint straight out of the can with nothing but a Purdy brush and it laid out perfectly flat. The only reason its not glass smooth is because I did not prime underneath it and thus you can feel the wood through it. (this is birch ply).

I think it is going to be easier for me to just hand paint this cabinetry. I guess I will roll and back brush it on.

Which leads me to my NEXT question-
What kind of oil primer should I buy as my first coat to get that wood sealed up? I will be applying by hand and would like to find something at either Sherwin Williams or Home Depot, places that I have easy access to.

Thanks for any suggestions.


----------



## ducky911 (Oct 6, 2010)

Try to mix in some water based poly to thin the paint more and try again…maybe 2 parts poly to your above mix…i bet you will be happier.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

I'm not really digging this thinning of the paint. What I experimented with last night was 50% paint, 25% distilled water, and 25% floetrol. Now you are saying thin it even more? That doesn't sound right to me…..

I read elsewhere that a woman sprayed untouched Benjamin Moore Advanced latex enamel through a Wagner hvlp conversion gun with good results.

Do I just need to buy a conversion gun? Would this work?


----------



## ducky911 (Oct 6, 2010)

Looks like you have a math error on your percentages. Don't try it than. I did just spray my granddaughters bedroom set white…drawers deck chest bedframe canapy top…and i was very happy. No way a brush could do that. I not sure what the poly does but i read about it and gave it a try. I only use alittle water in my mix.


----------



## ducky911 (Oct 6, 2010)

Looks


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Way too thin noone. 20% max with latex for spraying if a paint and primer together. 10% with standard latex should be enough.


----------



## stan3443 (Mar 3, 2012)

like bruce said in the begining gravity gun paid 40. oo at manards painted 2 granddauthers beds pitsburg grand distiontion latex semi gloss 3 coats couln't ask for a beter finish


----------



## GuyK (Mar 26, 2007)

Noone, thanks for bringing this up. I am about to use a Earlex 5500 for the first time and all the above information is a great help.

Earlextech I am using GF milk paint of which you suggested thinning. Do you have a suggestion as to how much?

Thanks


----------



## ducky911 (Oct 6, 2010)

Guy,

Your post sparked my interst so i goggled around a bit and came up with this review of earlex and milk paint. Read the three reviews.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2083184/33566/Earlex-Spray-Station-HV5500-HVLP.aspx#Reviews

Your 5500 blows much better than my 5000 so i think you get it done after thinning farther then you might want. I also read that GF milk paint is not milk paint but satin acrilic paint…if that matters.

I would be very interested on how yours turns out. I am still leaning on getting the fuji 4 stage. One bad thing about earlex is they won't let you buy a bigger turbine for your gun. I was going to upgrade to a 6900 but they told me that i had to buy the gun (same one as the 5000) with it.


----------



## GuyK (Mar 26, 2007)

Thanks ducky. I will post after I use it. I have never used a sprayer before so my results may not be what they should be.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

Help!

I just finished SPRAYING some SW Multi Purpose oil primer and the Harbor Freight HVLP turbine made a total orange peel mess on these cabs. I did not thin it. Please tell me I can sand this out.

I had started hand brushing the oil primer on with a 2" nylon Purdy sash. It was going pretty well, but it felt too slow. So I pulled out the HVLP from the trunk of my car that I had all packed up and ready to return to Harbor Freight. What a mistake.

I want a factory looking finish on these flush inset door cabinets I made. I won't settle for anything else!

Yesterday I used it with some SW Pro Classic waterborne and it did pretty poorly. I guess I may have thinned it too much. I used 8 ounces of paint, then added 2 oz of Floetrol and 2oz of water. It didn't work out well at all.

I have been using the 2.0 tip. I also have a 1.5 and 1.8 tip I could use.

Please direct me all ye Masters of Paint.


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

noone, use the 1.5
GuyK, you have to buy the gun with the 6900 beccause the connection to the gun is different even though it is the same gun. I'm trying to get that fixed. As for the milk paint, I was thinning 10% using the 5000, with the 5500 it should be even less, maybe 5% and again, anytime you are looking for a furniture quality finish, use the 1.5


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

I'll sand it down that orange with some 150 and then give the 1.5 tip a try.

I think I am also going to buy this handheld Wagner HVLP at Home Depot -
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1v/R-100661562/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=paint+sprayer&storeId=10051

It looks like it has good reviews, and i'm hoping the 'two-stage turbine' vs. the HF one-stage turbine, will be a little better at atomizing acrylic latex enamel.


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

noone, look into the Graco 3900 at Lowes, it comes with the painting needle and the finishing needle


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Practice on some scrap first. The one you have should work fine.


----------



## ducky911 (Oct 6, 2010)

Yes you can sand

I used Bin primer it is shelac based..must where a mask…but it is thin and sprayed great. Paint primers are the hardest to spray. But you can probably now sand and say its primed. If not i think you would be happy with the Bin shelac based primer.

Orange peal comes form…not enough air…to small of tip…to thick of material…so you need to change one or more of these. Better sprayer and/or larger tip and/or thin material….mind you i had to do all three to get it right.

Earlex told you to put a smaller tip …i have no idea why…i thought if it was runny you put a smaller tip on??

I am really hoping you get this done and post up a picture.

Best

Bob


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

I too thought a smaller tip would be even worse for a thicker material such as latex enamel or oil primer.

Maybe the fact that I did not thin the oil primer at all caused me issues, who knows. The oil primer came out much much worse than my first experience with the gun using the SW Pro Classic waterborne. At least the Pro Classic laid flat, but I had thinned it too much and it was too watered down looking.

I am going to give the Wagner a try tonight with the SW Pro Classic acrylic latex enamel, thinned 10 to 15% with Floetrol, and see what happens.

Then I will return the unit that doesn't work as well.


----------



## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

Floetrol's not for thinning; water is.
In jeff jewitt's spray finishing book and video he sprays satin impervo acrylic latex.
His formula is 3 oz of floetrol (it helps the paint flow, NOT to thin it), 3 oz of water and26 oz of paint.

Mind you this is with a gravity feed hvlp compressor driven gun.

As for primer, I've used a few, then Zinsser BIN, and won't use anything else now. It's great.


----------



## ducky911 (Oct 6, 2010)

Quote..Floetrol's not for thinning; water is.
In jeff jewitt's spray finishing book and video he sprays satin impervo acrylic latex.
His formula is 3 oz of floetrol (it helps the paint flow, NOT to thin it), 3 oz of water and26 oz of paint.

I have this book also but i guess it is just terminology. I put festol in and it lowers the cup time and sprays better. To me I am thinning.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

I tested both the Wagner toy and the HF turbine and the toy won. It actually sprays a finer mist with less splatter than the HF gun which I think is because the Wagner blows more air and has a higher output pressure than the HF.

The HF gun is 10x better than the Wagner toy. The HF had a 2.0mm needle on it and the Wagner looked like it had the same. It didnt say what size it was so i could only guess. The needle on the Wagner looks like its plastic while the HF is at least brass. The HF plastic is much more sturdier on the handle and cup than the Wagner. It looks like the HF will withstand some decent use. Not so sure about the Wagner. It looks like it could break at any time.

But the Wagner lays down a smoother than the HF and that's what counts. The Wagner was even cheaper than the HF- $56 instead of $80. I used the mixture NiteWalker mentioned above with great success- 26 oz. of paint plus 3 oz. of Floetrol and 3 oz. of distilled water. Thank you for that great tip.

The finish is satisfactory, but not perfectly smooth. It has some slight stipple to it.

I'd like to know how to get a glass finish. I'm thinking a conversion HVLP should do the trick. Any further tips anyone can share?


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

Looked at compressors + HVLP gun setups tonight. It just looks to be too expensive for an adequate compressor and gun.

Looking at the Earlex 5500 now. Will this handle my thinned latex enamel nice and smooth?


----------



## jgreiner (Oct 23, 2010)

I just got done spraying latex paint on some parts for my router table, I'll post more about it on my blog tomorrow with pictures, but the short story is this:
Harbor Freight HVLP system (same as rockler's just cheaper)
http://www.harborfreight.com/high-volume-low-pressure-spray-gun-kit-44677.html

HVLP replacement cups from rockler (couldn't find any at harbor freight)
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17931&site=ROCKLER&filter=HVLP%20cup

I used a mixture of latex paint, water based poly and flotrol, it went on great had no problems with it at all cleanup is a breeze with the extra cups.

The ratio is simple
4 oz latex paint
1 oz flotrol
2 oz water based poly

For a full cup I did
20 oz paint
5 oz flotrol
10 oz water based poly

-jeremy


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

Jeremy, I would be really interested in seeing some close up pictures of your surface texture. I read about using the poly and that seems like a great substitute to bring back the gloss that seems all but gone since I have thinned with Floetrol and water.

Did you get a factory looking finished surface?

What tip size, what kind of paint and what kind of poly did you use?

Looking forward to hearing back from you.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

Jeremy- I just saw this video that shows your ratio -






Did you also use Satin or Gloss poly? I bought some Polycrylic Gloss and now I'm thinking it should have been Satin.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

Ok, back again….

I just finished trying out a Graco 2900 from Lowes. This one splattered even worse than the Harbor Freight turbine! I used it for about 5 minutes on my test area and called it quits, cleaned it up, and boxed it up.

So here are my unbiased, inexpensive HVLP turbine sprayers ratings. All tests used the same 'Jeff Jewitt magic mixture' of 26 oz acrylic latex/3 oz water/3oz. Floetrol.-

Dead last- The Graco 2900 Spray Station. $119 at Lowes or less if you have a coupon. It has a stock 2.0mm tip. I had high hopes on this one because the air it was producing felt at least as strong as the Wagner, probably stronger. But this one spattered paint madly. And it was the cheapest looking and feeling of the whole bunch. Lots of plastic, but it did have a brass needle and tip. Really cheap plastic and the output quality showed.

Second place- The Harbor Freight HVLP Turbine. $80 bucks on sale with 20% off coupon. It came with the 2.0mm tip (it also has 1.5mm and 1.8mm tips/needles) and that's what I used. A pretty decent machine, but underpowered in my opinion, at least for spraying latex enamel. It has a nice hard plastic gun with metal handle and brass innards, tip and needle and control knob. It sprays pretty well but does spatter more than the Wagner above, which is surprising, as it looks 10x better in terms of quality.

First place, and a total surprise- Wagner Control Spray Double Duty HVLP - $68 bucks at Home Depot (or less if you have coupons). This thing is basically, literally a hair dryer with a spray gun attached to it. It's all plastic. The gun, the cup, the housing, even the needle and tip in the gun. This thing is so consumer centric that it doesn't even state what size tip it is using. It looks like a 2.0mm though. But it sprays a nice fine mist. I don't know how or why, but it does. I got some pretty impressive results with the magic mixture so far and I can't wait to try out the SW Pro Classic waterborne/Polycrylic/Floetrol mix mentioned above. Time will tell how long this holds up. It's also not the most fun having to hold a hair dryer in your hand for long periods of time while you are spraying, but it's not too bad…

Ideally, i'd like to get into a gravity fed HVLP gun, but that would require an expensive compressor which I would only use for my home projects, so it just doesn't seem economical for me.

I may need to upgrade to a more expensive HVLP turbine in the $300+ range in the future, if I am going to keep playing carpenter around the house.

I hope this review helps others out there.


----------



## jgreiner (Oct 23, 2010)

Hi Noone,

I think that was the video that gave me the ratio, the paint comes out at a higher gloss than normal gloss paint does (which I liked). I used gloss water based poly .. and paint with the primer built in (I forget the brands)

I see what you're talking about on the splatter texture, after 3 coats I had some texture on the MDF panels. I didn't notice this because I didn't mind it, and I hadn't finished sanding.

I think the biggest problem at least for me was technique, not the machine, I think I was spraying the latex paint on too thick to try and achieve total coverage in the first coat. I think if I would have sprayed half the paint per coat and doubled my coats (6 instead of 3), with the same sanding between coats it would have produced much better results.

Unfortunately that's just guessing because I didn't notice soon enough to try.

Personally I'm pretty happy with the results the final layer is "smooth enough" for a shop project, but I could see it being a problem for painted cabinets. Unfortunately I just don't have enough experience to tell you if it's the machine, or me.

Sorry I couldn't give ya the results you where looking for 

-jeremy


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

Thanks Jeremy. I'd still like to see some pics if you don't mind. I'm really just trying to determine what full gloss poly mixed into semi gloss paint looks like vs. mixing in satin poly. I'd rather not have to open a $20 quart of polycrylic if it's the wrong stuff!!


----------



## jgreiner (Oct 23, 2010)

I'll post some pictures tomorrow, I meant to get some in today but time slipped away from me.

Also I used Water based polyurethane, not polycrilyc, I believe there is a difference, though I don't know what that is.

-jeremy


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

A couple of things about HVLP in general.

First is needle size. No thick fluid is going through a true HVLP system. It must be thinned or already thin enough. This isn't airless, with high pressure. A typical two stage HVLP is pushing about 5 psi. Therefore, you change the needle to create the atomization size that is right for the project. If I'm painting a wall then 2.0 or bigger, if I'm painting furniture or cabinets or trim, then 1.5 or smaller.

Second is airflow. The airflow on most HVLP is a constant and unchangable. Therefore it is possible to overload the airflow with fluid and then it can't atomize it all. This is easy to see by loading the gun with water and on the round pattern, spray towards the sky and increase the flow rate. At some point you will see bigger droplets coming out in the center of the mist. This is the indication that you have overloaded the air with fluid. Back it up a little and your setting is just right. I'm pretty sure this is what was happening with the 2900.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

I had the 2900 just barely open and it splattered.

Just bought the Earlex 6900. I hope it won't disappoint! Should be here Thur.


----------



## GuyK (Mar 26, 2007)

Noone thank you again for bringing this subject up. I am sure all this information has help some us with our spraying questions or problems. Today for the first time I used a sprayer ( Earlex 5500 ) and I must say that I am pleased with the results. As soon as the project is complete I will post pictures. I followed Earlextechs instructions and everything went great. If your new 6900 works as well as my 5500, you should be satisfied.
Earlextech-Sam Hamory, thank you for your help and knowledge.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

I will be sure to post pictures of my project as well with Earlex 6900 results. I'm looking forward to working with it.

I also took a look at that Spray Finishing Made Simple book by Jeff Jewitt. There is lots of good information in there. Highly recommended.

For the upper bookcase parts of this project I am working on, I will be using Zinser BIN as the primer. I already have a can left from a previous project. I'm thinking that with the 1.5 tip, the Earlex 6900 will lay this stuff down like glass with the compared to the Harbor Freight/oil primer I used on the cabinets. I wish I had read that book first, as I think I wasted my money on that Sherwin Williams All Purpose Oil Primer. I wish I could get my money back.


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

noone - look at the hose at the gun end. It has an air-dam rocker. If your material is thicker then leave that open, if thinner then try closing it. The 6900 is a three stage turbine that puts out 72 cfm which is sometimes too much for the thinner fluids. 
Also, load it with water first, do the test I described above to get some practice at how to set the gun properly. You need to adjust this setting each time you load the gun with finish.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

I gave up on the Earlex 6900 because others said it couldn't handle my SW Pro Classic acrylic latex enamel.

I'm now looking into HVLP gravity gun setups.


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://images.craigslist.org/5I35H15X13k03L13p8c4a1542f687922e1453.jpg

395.00 in Craigslist. This looks like it will spray anything all day long. But how long will it last? Sometimes it better to purchase new.

http://www.jnequipment.com/show_detail.php?item=Titan_CapSpray_95_HVLP_Paint_Sprayer
More information as well.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

That thing looks like its been ridden hard and hung up to dry.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

Update:

Bought a Husky "Pro" 30 gallon compressor from Home Depot and this gravity HVLP at Northern Tool. I'm still trying to figure out if this is like a Harbor Freight gun because it looked like it was that type of tool from looking at the box. However, it looks like its built and machined well and it worked excellent. It laid down latex perfectly smooth. Very pleased with it. And it was cheap. $40 bucks. The only thing it's missing is an air flow valve. I'm not sure if that is even necessary since you can control the pressure with the gun regulator. I'll probably end up buying the 1.8 red gun for priming with shellac.

Am I missing anything by not having an air flow valve (the dial that would be on the base of the handle)?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200319459_200319459


----------



## markv (Jul 10, 2012)

I am a beginner to intermediate level guy and I think the most underated product is shellac. I've refinished existing kitchen cabinets, built bookcases with SW pigmented shellac or BIN and sprayed it with no thinning with my Earlex 5500 and the 1.5 tip. You can have it tinted to whatever color you need. I've also had good luck with the dewaxed Zinnser and analine dye to refinish a few pieces. This stuff dries in 30 minute and sands great. I topcoat it with a water based GF poly and it looks great. If you want to spray latex you need to consider this option it's much easier.


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

I have been priming the bare wood with BIN. Already went through two cans. Great stuff.


----------



## TenDigitHands (Jul 9, 2012)

I just sprayed Benjamin Moore 'Aura' and it is the easiest paint that I have ever sprayed in small batches. In the can it is a bit runny, but I sprayed frame and panel doors and it laid down perfect. From Kelley-Moore, to Sherwin, to Fine Paints of Europe, this is the easiest paint I have ever sprayed. A problem with floetrol that I have found is that it leaves an uneven sheen, some flat some glossy. I don't like to water down finishes. I have many sprayers, but the one I used for this project was Model # HDS50099AV, it comes with 2 tips, but I used the smaller non latex tip, with air pressure set up around 65psi. This is only the first coat of paint with one coat of primer (sanded smooth) underneath.


----------



## Dave1993 (May 7, 2013)

Hi guys, I see that a few of you are really experienced in this area, and I could really do with some help of my own. Ive subscribtion souly to pick your brains about HVLP spray painting I just dont want to be spamming this man's post. If you could message me or join me on a seperate post, I would really appretiate that!

Many Thanks
David


----------



## Ziyad (Oct 20, 2009)

Did noone ever post pics?


----------



## noone (Mar 6, 2012)

Click on the pics for the full size picture.

Before-



After-


----------

