# Building a Top-Notch Workbench- for under $250



## Visions (Sep 12, 2011)

*Overview: What this bench will be, what it won't be, and why...*

To start off, this will be a blog series that will follow along as I design and build a truly first-class bench for under $250, including vises.
I'm sure most of you are thinking I'm a bit nuts or that I simply have no idea what I've got myself into. But in reality, I've been planning for this very build for months upon months. I've priced out what I'll need, have a general idea of where I'm going, and I'm basically ready to get started.

My inspiration for this bench build is being totally fed up with the current designs available commercially, and wanting to prove once and for all that you CAN, with proper use of materials and planning, build a low-cost bench that will function just as well as the best of the best, while using common tools and materials.

The basic design of this bench will be one that has become very popular in recent years, the Roubo. I will be using rough-cut softwood, likely some type of pine or fir, as this is readily available, easy yo work, and very affordable at $0.50-$0.75 per/bf from my suppliers, and sometimes cheaper.

Vises will be self-made using wooden screws cut on a 1.5" Beall threading kit. This gives a lot of versatility and flexibility in what type of vises are used and how they are designed, and again, can save a ton of money over commercial pieces. My plan is to use twin-screw vises for both shoulder and tail vises, but this could easily be changed if someone wanted a different set-up, as having the threading kit give you the ability to make whatever you can dream up!

If you're interested in building your own bench, but have been put off by the cost, you may want to follow along as I build this bench as it may give you some ideas on how to build your own and save some money too.

I'm going wood shopping this coming week, so this should be kicking off really soon.


----------



## MoshupTrail (Aug 11, 2011)

Visions said:


> *Overview: What this bench will be, what it won't be, and why...*
> 
> To start off, this will be a blog series that will follow along as I design and build a truly first-class bench for under $250, including vises.
> I'm sure most of you are thinking I'm a bit nuts or that I simply have no idea what I've got myself into. But in reality, I've been planning for this very build for months upon months. I've priced out what I'll need, have a general idea of where I'm going, and I'm basically ready to get started.
> ...


Go for it Kenny - I'd like to follow along. 
I see you're in Maine. You will have no trouble finding good pine. What about birch? Is it suitable for a bench?


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

Visions said:


> *Overview: What this bench will be, what it won't be, and why...*
> 
> To start off, this will be a blog series that will follow along as I design and build a truly first-class bench for under $250, including vises.
> I'm sure most of you are thinking I'm a bit nuts or that I simply have no idea what I've got myself into. But in reality, I've been planning for this very build for months upon months. I've priced out what I'll need, have a general idea of where I'm going, and I'm basically ready to get started.
> ...


I promise to stay out of your way as I look over your shoulder!

Looking forward to seeing your plans & following along on your journey to workbenchdom!!!


----------



## Visions (Sep 12, 2011)

Visions said:


> *Overview: What this bench will be, what it won't be, and why...*
> 
> To start off, this will be a blog series that will follow along as I design and build a truly first-class bench for under $250, including vises.
> I'm sure most of you are thinking I'm a bit nuts or that I simply have no idea what I've got myself into. But in reality, I've been planning for this very build for months upon months. I've priced out what I'll need, have a general idea of where I'm going, and I'm basically ready to get started.
> ...


Thanks guys, that's why I'm going to post all my progress and ideas, so that others can follow along, get ideas of their own, and help me with ideas too.

MoshupTrail,
Birch would make for an awesome bench! It's similar to maple, and would likely make just as good a bench in my opinion. It may be a bit harder to flatten, as birch can have a good bit of reversing grain and such, but if I had enough birch for a bench, I wouldn't let that sway me from building it one bit!


----------



## DallasBentley (Apr 13, 2010)

Visions said:


> *Overview: What this bench will be, what it won't be, and why...*
> 
> To start off, this will be a blog series that will follow along as I design and build a truly first-class bench for under $250, including vises.
> I'm sure most of you are thinking I'm a bit nuts or that I simply have no idea what I've got myself into. But in reality, I've been planning for this very build for months upon months. I've priced out what I'll need, have a general idea of where I'm going, and I'm basically ready to get started.
> ...


I hope to follow along as you pull things together and grab some ideas. This is a great place to get feedback, encouragement and brainstorms. Feel free to glance at my low budget bench and see if it will help out any.


----------



## Grampa_Doodie (Feb 9, 2012)

Visions said:


> *Overview: What this bench will be, what it won't be, and why...*
> 
> To start off, this will be a blog series that will follow along as I design and build a truly first-class bench for under $250, including vises.
> I'm sure most of you are thinking I'm a bit nuts or that I simply have no idea what I've got myself into. But in reality, I've been planning for this very build for months upon months. I've priced out what I'll need, have a general idea of where I'm going, and I'm basically ready to get started.
> ...


I'll come along for the ride as well. Thanks for doing this Kenny!!

Dale.


----------



## MichaelAgate (Jan 15, 2012)

Visions said:


> *Overview: What this bench will be, what it won't be, and why...*
> 
> To start off, this will be a blog series that will follow along as I design and build a truly first-class bench for under $250, including vises.
> I'm sure most of you are thinking I'm a bit nuts or that I simply have no idea what I've got myself into. But in reality, I've been planning for this very build for months upon months. I've priced out what I'll need, have a general idea of where I'm going, and I'm basically ready to get started.
> ...


Finally found you on LJ's. We just read the blog above and are going to read on through. This sounds like something we may take on too. Plenty of spruce and fur in our neck of the woods as well. This should be interesting!


----------



## Visions (Sep 12, 2011)

*More on what I want from this bench and why...*

I have worked on a tiny bench for way too long now. My current bench is apprx. 22" x 28", has one vise that is too small with a chop that is too big, and it the most frustrating piece of equipment in my shop, bar none. It's so small that I knock everything off of it while working, I can't handplane long boards on it, the list of this bench's shortcomings is just endless. With one exception, it is very sturdy and it doesn't rack much at all or move while planing on it. How is this possible? I lagged it to my concrete floor.

This new bench, to more correctly describe it's design than I had in my earlier post, will be a sort of mix of the Roubo and Holtzapffel designs, with some of my own ideas as well. The main reason I am looking at this type of bench is, first, it's simplicity and extremely robust construction. The second, is that this design allows for a much wider range of work-holding options than a bench with a deep apron and legs inset from the edge of the top. 
And as a last point, it is my opinion that a bench that relies on it simply being massive for it's strength will hold-up better over time than a bench that relies on tight joinery alone. Especially when it's built from a relatively soft wood as I will be doing.

I also want a bench that is heavy and sturdy enough that it won't move while planing, but doesn't need to be bolted down like my current bench so that I can move it if I need to. This will be a major plus and the end of a long-running headache!

Now, onto work-holding, vises and other amenities.
I decided I wanted wooden vise screws after trying a set on an old bench I saw a while back. It worked very fast and held very, very tight. It also had a better "feel" to it than any metal screw vise I had used before. I was instantly in love.
I had initially wanted to use Lake Erie Tool Works wooden screws for the vises, and then I saw the price. Nope. Just way more money than I can afford. To buy just the basic kits for my planned set-up, at $120 a piece, I'd be at $600 right there, more than doubling my projected total cost just on vise hardware! I had to find another way.
One option was to simply use pipe clamps. But they're just not what I want for this bench, and definitely won't make for a "Top-Notch" bench by any stretch. So, what else is there?
Then I found the Beall Wood Threader, perfect! Granted, it only cuts a 1-1/2" diameter thread with 5tpi, but if I use a solid hardwood, I'm pretty sure I'll be fine. Anyway, if I have the threader, I can simply replace a screw should I ever have an issue. And at less than $100, it fit the budget too.

Because my bench will reside in the center of one area in my shop, and such will not be against a wall, I plan to make the best of this and set up each side with a different type of vise.
One side will use a large twin-screw vise, which will be used for dovetailing, cutting tenons and other end-grain work. The other side will use a leg-vise, sliding deadman and a removable crochet, which is a good set-up for edge jointing long stock and other tasks which need a similar work-holding arrangement. 
The end-vise will be another, slightly smaller, twin-screw.

That pretty much wraps up what the bench will be. Once I get materials ans start the actual work, I'll apdate again.
Thanks


----------



## DallasBentley (Apr 13, 2010)

Visions said:


> *More on what I want from this bench and why...*
> 
> I have worked on a tiny bench for way too long now. My current bench is apprx. 22" x 28", has one vise that is too small with a chop that is too big, and it the most frustrating piece of equipment in my shop, bar none. It's so small that I knock everything off of it while working, I can't handplane long boards on it, the list of this bench's shortcomings is just endless. With one exception, it is very sturdy and it doesn't rack much at all or move while planing on it. How is this possible? I lagged it to my concrete floor.
> 
> ...


My bench base is made of soft wood. I was worried the whole thing might slide with heavy planing. Two things helped solve this problem. 1) A removable bottom shelf that rests on cleats - you can drop weight on the shelf (dumbbells, other tools, your kid brother). 2) Place all 4 legs on the edges of anti-fatigue mats - I bought two 7 foot lengths from Home Depot, and they are a dream to stand on.

The two didn't become the eyesores like I expected they would be.


----------



## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

Visions said:


> *More on what I want from this bench and why...*
> 
> I have worked on a tiny bench for way too long now. My current bench is apprx. 22" x 28", has one vise that is too small with a chop that is too big, and it the most frustrating piece of equipment in my shop, bar none. It's so small that I knock everything off of it while working, I can't handplane long boards on it, the list of this bench's shortcomings is just endless. With one exception, it is very sturdy and it doesn't rack much at all or move while planing on it. How is this possible? I lagged it to my concrete floor.
> 
> ...


Good luck.
I think it is possible. You will need to keep your eyes on CL/paper/GS/ES….to get the good deals.

The bench that I am building may be close to that, but I have not total things out lately. I got all the materials, vises, and major hardware but something may pop up. I am comfortable of claiming the cost to date is around $250.
I did find some very good deals. Here is what I got so far:


 Two 3-1/4×12x85 laminated hard maple for the top (bowling alley floor in 2×4s for $75???).
 5×5x30 oak legs (old timber from heavy construction to keep equipment off the ground, 6×6x144, $20????)
 Quick release End vise ($25 estate sale, requires cleanup).
 Front vise qr ($75 on sale new).
 Maple/Walnut pieces (CL $???).
 Salavage some long bolts/nuts from work (metal scrap bin $0.00).
 A lot of glue.
 Locking wheels/hinges (Wheel are from Ebay $50-60?). It is supposed to be a mobile WB.

With that said, I didn't include the cost of my time and I am 2 years behind schedule and I am still not done : )
If this is a real work project, I would of gotten fired.


----------



## Visions (Sep 12, 2011)

Visions said:


> *More on what I want from this bench and why...*
> 
> I have worked on a tiny bench for way too long now. My current bench is apprx. 22" x 28", has one vise that is too small with a chop that is too big, and it the most frustrating piece of equipment in my shop, bar none. It's so small that I knock everything off of it while working, I can't handplane long boards on it, the list of this bench's shortcomings is just endless. With one exception, it is very sturdy and it doesn't rack much at all or move while planing on it. How is this possible? I lagged it to my concrete floor.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the support. This too has been a "project in the making" for a long time now. Or, as Charles Neil would say, I've been "fixin to" make this bench for long while now.

There is one more piece of the puzzle I would like to purchase before I get too deeply embedded in the construction phase, and that is Christopher Schwarz's Workbench's: from design and theory, to construction and use. Though I may add his Workbench Design book to the list also.

Though is all honesty, I doubt my ideas or plans will change much regardless. I have a pretty detailed idea of what I want both drawn on paper and in my head, and in my eyes, there is little that could be done to improve upon it at this point.
I have spent countless hours over the past year or more researching different benches, looking at different types of vises and other work-holding accessories, and thinking about how I work, what I build, what I aspire to build, and tools I use now and those I want to but in the future.
I have took much of this into consideration and come up with what I feel is the best bench for me, personally. It may not work for everyone, but I think it could suit a large majority of woodworkers who use a combination of hand and power tools.

Thanks


----------



## Visions (Sep 12, 2011)

*Why I'm going to make a separate "power-tool workstation"*

I know many of you likely use your workbench for both hand-tool and power-tool work, some because you lack the space for two dedicated stations, others because they simply have not seen the advantages of having a true "power-tool workstation", and still others may not have a "true" hand-tool bench and use one "make-shift" bench for everything.
Myself, I fell into the third category for a long time, but all that is about to change. I will be making myself a 'Power-Tool Workstation" before my hand-tool workbench is complete. Why? Because it will make many aspects of building the hand-tool bench much easier. I am not against using power-tools to build a hand-tool bench, and frankly, I feel a router can cut tenons faster and more accurately than I can on the large timbers I will be using, or at least clean them up after I remove the bulk with a handsaw and backsaw. It will also clean out a mortise faster than a chisel or brace and bit in most cases. The opposite may be true for some, but not for me.

I saw a video from Fine Woodworking a while back on their "Power-Tool Workbench", and the idea really got me thinking. It sucks dragging a vacuum hose over the edge of a bench while sanding, as well it sucks being bent over while running an RO sander for more than five or ten minutes.(I have a really bad back, so it makes it worse)

Power tools work better when used on a taller bench than you would with hand-tools. They also have cords and vacuum hoses that get in the way badly if not dealt with. Then you have the problem of where to put the vacuum, it tipping over as you drag it around by it's short hose, it gets caught on the vise handles, the list of downfalls to using power-tools on a hand-tool bench is almost endless.

The Fine Woodworking Power-Tool Bench solves, or helps with, most all of these problems in very convenient ways.
If you are not familiar with this "Power-Tool Bench", have a look at the video on it HERE.

I'm going to look into building the top section into a downdraft table that I can plug my duct collector into while retaining the clamping system and contained shop-vac. I thing with a bit of careful designing, it will be possible. It may not be ideal, but it'll will definitely be better than nothing!

I feel this will help me make the most out of my work-bench without needing to make sacrifices on it's design to accommodate power-tool use. Let's face it, hand-tool benches work best when they are a no-compromise design. And having a proper bench to help make the most of your power tools will make them work better for you too, and will help a lot when machining the parts and pieces for the hand-tool bench itself.

Thanks for reading. Until next time, stay safe in your shops and enjoy woodworking!


----------



## Sarit (Oct 21, 2009)

Visions said:


> *Why I'm going to make a separate "power-tool workstation"*
> 
> I know many of you likely use your workbench for both hand-tool and power-tool work, some because you lack the space for two dedicated stations, others because they simply have not seen the advantages of having a true "power-tool workstation", and still others may not have a "true" hand-tool bench and use one "make-shift" bench for everything.
> Myself, I fell into the third category for a long time, but all that is about to change. I will be making myself a 'Power-Tool Workstation" before my hand-tool workbench is complete. Why? Because it will make many aspects of building the hand-tool bench much easier. I am not against using power-tools to build a hand-tool bench, and frankly, I feel a router can cut tenons faster and more accurately than I can on the large timbers I will be using, or at least clean them up after I remove the bulk with a handsaw and backsaw. It will also clean out a mortise faster than a chisel or brace and bit in most cases. The opposite may be true for some, but not for me.
> ...


I would probably make a separate vacuum + dust deputy cart rather than putting everything inside the power-tool bench. The need for a 2 stage vac is universal around the shop and the base of the power tool bench is ideal for storing,... wait for it… POWER TOOLS!


----------



## felkadelic (Jun 12, 2011)

Visions said:


> *Why I'm going to make a separate "power-tool workstation"*
> 
> I know many of you likely use your workbench for both hand-tool and power-tool work, some because you lack the space for two dedicated stations, others because they simply have not seen the advantages of having a true "power-tool workstation", and still others may not have a "true" hand-tool bench and use one "make-shift" bench for everything.
> Myself, I fell into the third category for a long time, but all that is about to change. I will be making myself a 'Power-Tool Workstation" before my hand-tool workbench is complete. Why? Because it will make many aspects of building the hand-tool bench much easier. I am not against using power-tools to build a hand-tool bench, and frankly, I feel a router can cut tenons faster and more accurately than I can on the large timbers I will be using, or at least clean them up after I remove the bulk with a handsaw and backsaw. It will also clean out a mortise faster than a chisel or brace and bit in most cases. The opposite may be true for some, but not for me.
> ...


I would maybe consider a chamber for an air compressor (if you use air tools frequently)


----------



## Visions (Sep 12, 2011)

Visions said:


> *Why I'm going to make a separate "power-tool workstation"*
> 
> I know many of you likely use your workbench for both hand-tool and power-tool work, some because you lack the space for two dedicated stations, others because they simply have not seen the advantages of having a true "power-tool workstation", and still others may not have a "true" hand-tool bench and use one "make-shift" bench for everything.
> Myself, I fell into the third category for a long time, but all that is about to change. I will be making myself a 'Power-Tool Workstation" before my hand-tool workbench is complete. Why? Because it will make many aspects of building the hand-tool bench much easier. I am not against using power-tools to build a hand-tool bench, and frankly, I feel a router can cut tenons faster and more accurately than I can on the large timbers I will be using, or at least clean them up after I remove the bulk with a handsaw and backsaw. It will also clean out a mortise faster than a chisel or brace and bit in most cases. The opposite may be true for some, but not for me.
> ...


Once you've heard how much quieter that vac is inside the bench, and how nice it is to have everything all set-up and ready to go so you just plug your tool in, hook up the hose and go, I think you'd change your mind!

Shop-vacs are super loud and annoying, especially when you're running it for extended periods. And keeping it in an enclosure like that will cut the noise in half. Making your work that much more enjoyable.

As well, I am of the belief that cabinets, drawers and shelves are for storing tools. Work-benches, as the name implies, are for working with tools.

Anyway, the point of this bench is to have a totally self-contained work-station that gives you all you need to make the most of your power tools in one place. No shop-vacs in the way to trip over.

Just my opinion.


----------



## 559dustdesigns (Sep 23, 2009)

Visions said:


> *Why I'm going to make a separate "power-tool workstation"*
> 
> I know many of you likely use your workbench for both hand-tool and power-tool work, some because you lack the space for two dedicated stations, others because they simply have not seen the advantages of having a true "power-tool workstation", and still others may not have a "true" hand-tool bench and use one "make-shift" bench for everything.
> Myself, I fell into the third category for a long time, but all that is about to change. I will be making myself a 'Power-Tool Workstation" before my hand-tool workbench is complete. Why? Because it will make many aspects of building the hand-tool bench much easier. I am not against using power-tools to build a hand-tool bench, and frankly, I feel a router can cut tenons faster and more accurately than I can on the large timbers I will be using, or at least clean them up after I remove the bulk with a handsaw and backsaw. It will also clean out a mortise faster than a chisel or brace and bit in most cases. The opposite may be true for some, but not for me.
> ...


Hi Kenny your ideas sound great and I think your making a good decision building two separate benches. 
I've brain stormed dedicated power tools work stations quite a bit. 
I can't think of the best way to incorporate a power cord chase, so there isn't cords hanging off the bench clutering up the front of the bench.
I have been attending a woodworking class at a local community college, where the cords of all the power tools are cut short. 
Every cord is about 12" long.
My idea is to have a cord reel built into the bench so I could just peel out just enough cord and switch out tools quicker. 
I kind of like the idea of only pluging in one tool at a time for safety. 
I would like to store all my tools below the bench with easy access. 
I'm just a little afraid that I'll regret cutting off the cords. 
Than I have to consider the plug connection hanging 12"s from the tool. 
The last consideration would be, making sure the plug stays together until I wish to switch to another tool. What are your thoughts on cords?


----------



## Visions (Sep 12, 2011)

Visions said:


> *Why I'm going to make a separate "power-tool workstation"*
> 
> I know many of you likely use your workbench for both hand-tool and power-tool work, some because you lack the space for two dedicated stations, others because they simply have not seen the advantages of having a true "power-tool workstation", and still others may not have a "true" hand-tool bench and use one "make-shift" bench for everything.
> Myself, I fell into the third category for a long time, but all that is about to change. I will be making myself a 'Power-Tool Workstation" before my hand-tool workbench is complete. Why? Because it will make many aspects of building the hand-tool bench much easier. I am not against using power-tools to build a hand-tool bench, and frankly, I feel a router can cut tenons faster and more accurately than I can on the large timbers I will be using, or at least clean them up after I remove the bulk with a handsaw and backsaw. It will also clean out a mortise faster than a chisel or brace and bit in most cases. The opposite may be true for some, but not for me.
> ...


Me, I'm not cutting my cords. I like the idea shown in the Fine Woodworking bench where they have the raised rod at the back of the bench where you can attach your shop-vac hose and cords via small clips and an O-ring on the vac hose. If you watch the video in the link, you will see what I mean.

I had considered cutting all my cords to about 6" and using a cord-reel attached to the raised rod at the back of the bench, but something tells me that when the time comes and I need to use my tools off the bench I'll regret my short cords.

For now, I'll leave them long. Once I get the bench working, we'll see if I change my mind.


----------



## Visions (Sep 12, 2011)

*Wood has been purchased @ $108 total*

So I managed to pick up the wood about 3 weeks ago, and it has been drying and acclimating in my garage ever since.

I picked out four very nice 12' long 4"x4" pine beams, and another six 10' 4"x4" pine beams that were all very straight along their length with the straightest grain I could find. None contain any pith, which is key in a project like this, as you don't want the top cracking. And if you've never seen it, a 4"x4" with a pith in it, or anything else for that matter, will almost certainly crack and split over time, and many times will bow and twist as well. Not what we're looking for!

The only downfall to buying local lumber like this is that it has never seen a kiln. It wasn't as dry as it needed to be at close to 12% moisture as read by my cheap General pin meter. So, I decided to take action and get this wood down to a useable moisture level. And not wanting to wait all summer, I did what I could to speed things along.

First, I skim planed the outside of all the beams with my #5 Stanley Jack plane using an iron with a good bit of camber. This will basically remove the "crust" and let the fresh wood in the middle breath a bit. I also cut an inch off each end of the beams with a handsaw. Since I bought the wood long and made sure I had a fair bit more than necessary, I don't mind losing a little to checking if it means I can get it dried faster.

Now, I brought the wood into my garage where I had arranged a row of pallets for the wood to set on and dry. I also used 2×4's on edge every 18" to raise the beams off the pallets for increased airflow, and used 2×4's between each layer of beams too. I then weighted them down with a row of cinder blocks along the top to try to hold them down and keep them from moving too much while drying.

Since I want to get this stuff dry ASAP, I made a sort of "tunnel" over the stack by placing pallets on edge down each side and draping a tarp over the top. I then put a box fan at each end to create a wind tunnel effect, and I keep them on low and run them on timers, 4 hours on, 4 hours off. I'm sure this isn't the best way to dry this stuff, not by far, and I'm not telling you to do it. But I want it dry!

I've been checking the wood regularly, and every third day I shut the fans off for the whole day and let the wood normalize a bit. After nearly 3 weeks of this, they're down to 9%, and the stack is now sitting open with a small fan circulating the air in the garage and the windows open. I'll be bringing the wood into the basement in a few days, where it will sit for about a week for it's final acclimation before I start to tear into it and get this bench built!

Now for any of you who plan to build a bench like this or similar, if you buy your wood at a lumber yard or box store and it has been kiln dried, you obviously won't need to go to the lengths I did to get it dry.
BUT, you do need to bring it into your shop and let it acclimate before you start cutting and building. This is a good practice with any project. Chances are, your shop is at a different temperature and humidity level then where you bought the wood, especially if it was an outdoor lumber yard or inside in a box store and your shop is in your basement, like mine is.

Box stores run massive heaters in the winter and A/C's in the summer, and both dry the air out a lot! Your shop will almost always have a higher humidity level than a box store, so be sure if you go that route to give the wood a week or two to acclimate so it doesn't start to swell one you get started building and cutting joinery.

Once this stuff is acclimated and dry, it'll be time to start cuttin! Should be soon, in a week or two I'd think.

Until then, Stay SAFE! And have fun too!


----------



## Sarit (Oct 21, 2009)

Visions said:


> *Wood has been purchased @ $108 total*
> 
> So I managed to pick up the wood about 3 weeks ago, and it has been drying and acclimating in my garage ever since.
> 
> ...


This is just a thought, but now that the weather is warming up, you might be able to stack the lumber next to your A/C unit outside and try to direct the hot air through your "tunnel". The tarp that you have over it then doubles as a rain barrier.


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

Visions said:


> *Wood has been purchased @ $108 total*
> 
> So I managed to pick up the wood about 3 weeks ago, and it has been drying and acclimating in my garage ever since.
> 
> ...


I'm looking forward to seeing the bench in progress. I hope that all of your preperation goes well.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## Visions (Sep 12, 2011)

*Vises and other workholding areas. Looking at the options....*

If you've read my earlier installments, you know I planned to use 1-1/2" x 5tpi wooden screws for my vises made with the Beall Tools threading kit.

Well, I may just change my mind on that yet!

I was looking on the LeeValley site the other day and decided to look over what they offered for vises just out of curiosity.
First thing I looked at were their ""tail vise screws"":http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=41664&cat=1,41659, which I have seen many, many good reviews on. I was actually surprised at the price as well, at only $36 each. Not bad! Two of those to make a twin screw would only put me at around $75. Not cheap, but worth it when building a nice bench.

Next, I started poking through the face vises, and I see they have a sizable quick-release front vise priced at $140. A bit more than I care to spend in reality, but worth considering. I'm just not sure I want to give up my dream of dual twin-screw vises just yet! But, in reality, it may not be a bad idea to have one more traditional vise. So, I made a mental note of it and moved along.

Then I see their ""standard front vises, and for some reason, maybe it's the color, they look a bit nicer to me. Not so "imported". And the larger of the two, which is a very substantially sized vise, comes in at under $75. Not bad! Again, not exactly what I want, but worth considering.

Now, two of the Veritas screws and the standard front vise would put me at just under $150 before shipping. Now, since I have already put $108 into wood, this will put me slightly over budget. Not by much, and it may be worth while to spend the extra money. But it's something I'll have to ponder for a bit. The quick-release, while a sweet feature, is simply more than I have to spend right now, so it's not an option for me. But if one had a larger budget, I think it would make for an excellent piece to add to your bench. As would any of their "top-line" vises. But at over $250, none are near affordable for me.

And then this brings me back to my original choice, which still holds tight in my mind, the 1-1/2"x5tpi wooden screws. The threading kit is under $100, and after that, all I have is the price of wood to consider and I can make any number of screws I desire, be it for jigs, vises clamps, or any other use, I will always have the threading kit.

If anyone has any thoughts or suggestions, I'm all ears. I would really like to get the vises right the first time. And really, I don't mind the thought of replacing the wooden screws every few years if needed. If they work well and last at least a couple years, that is fine with me.

I just don't have much experience with the style of steel vise I mentioned above. I do have both a small Bessey and another vintage steel vise in my shop now, and I know I need to upgrade to larger units. While my current vises serve me well, I have outgrown them and upgrading is a must at this point.

As for other types of work-holding, I do plan to eventually add some nice hold-fasts, preferably something like the Grammercy units, or even some hand-forged piece by Phil Koontz (or Jake the Russian, who I hear has taken over producing them). If you have never used a hol-dfast, it's something I recommend becoming acquainted with! I have a low-end model I picked up at Woodcraft, and while it is nothing near thew quality of the Grammercy, never mind the Koontz, it's still an invaluable piece of workholding equipment!

As well, if anyone has any other thoughts or suggestions, I'd love to hear them! I'm very open to trying new things and adding other features I've not thought of!

Thanks for reading, and until next time, stay safe and have fun!


----------



## bluekingfisher (Mar 30, 2010)

Visions said:


> *Vises and other workholding areas. Looking at the options....*
> 
> If you've read my earlier installments, you know I planned to use 1-1/2" x 5tpi wooden screws for my vises made with the Beall Tools threading kit.
> 
> ...


I have a couple of old Recored No53 vises on my bench, (tail &side) One of them gives me a 21" opening (without jaws) more than enough for most jobs.

With regards to my bench it doubles as my out feed table, I built it last year and made the top up from 6" wide 3/4" oak flooring. To my regret the surface has become uneven due to the movement of the boards. I'm faced with taking out a couple of boards and planing of just going for a sheet of MDF.

It is my intention one day to build a large beech heavy duty bench with all singing and dancing vises.


----------

