# Woodworking Tips and Resources



## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

*Jobsite vs Entry fullsize table saw - A detailed analysis *

The table saw is my most used tool for woodworking. Given it's utility in woodworking, it is arguably the tool that shouldn't be skimped out on. Yet over the years, the question of "which table saw is right for me" question is posted time and time again by new woodworkers, with a price point that is fixed to a specific niche, between a high-end jobsite saw and the entry level full-sized (contractor/hybrid) table saws (as of the date of this post, somewhere between $500-$600).

Over the years, I've gone from inquirer to observer and now responder for many of these questions. Inspired by knotscott's well written The ABCs of Table Saws, I decided to put my selection experience as a resource for the community (and to avoid repeating myself).

*Context:* I have had the pleasure of using a variety of saws in my brief woodworking journey (5 years as of the date of this posting). Going from a low end Black Friday special Skil 3305 Table saw, to several full size saws, to include contractor (older Craftsman, Ridgid R4512, SawStop) and high end cabinet (Delta X5, Jet XactaSaw, SawStop PCS and ICS) saws. When it came time to replace my Skil table saw, I was faced with a dilemma. What is the right table saw for me. To answer that question, I spent the time to think about what my criteria is for a table saw.

*Criteria:* Having experience with full size saws, I was able to define my table saw criteria to the following.

*Fence* - For the fence, I defined two selection criteria. First, I knew I wanted a good *fence that locks reliably and parallel to the blade*. Without a good and reliable fence, the table saw goes from a tool that has a real potential for danger to a dangerous tool with a real potential to hurt you. That's because kickback is amplified by a fence that isn't properly aligned, especially if it veers into the blade. Second, I knew I wanted a fence that would *resist deflection*.
*Ease of Alignment* - A well aligned table saw will perform it's job well. A well mis-aligned table saw will not only perform poorly, but also introduce the same danger for kickback. Therefore, *the ability to align the saw and maintain it's alignment settings* should be high on any selection criteria.
*Power* - Of all the saws I've used, I've been able to bog down all but the 3HP and up saws I've used. 
*Stability* - *Vibration* creates danger and is the enemy of accuracy. If the saw is bouncing around, it will be hard to control your work piece (and the saw for that matter), greatly increasing the danger.
*Safety Features* - If we go by the minimum legal requirements for new table saws, as of 2009 all new table saws sold today (thanks Underwriters Laboratories) must include a *riving knife* that remains in line with the blade and *blade guards* are required to support tool-less installation and removal. 
*Miter Channels* - Having *standard sized miter channels* (3/4" x 3/8") opens up a world of after market accessories, greatly improving the options available to a woodworker.
*Table Size* - The space before the blade is one criteria that doesn't seem to come to mind for folks looking for a table saw. Full size table saws have a 27" table, giving them about 12"+ before the blade, 10" for the blade, followed by 5" after the blade. Jobsite tablesaws range have anywhere from 20-22" deep tables. To put it into perspective, *5" of additional table space before the blade on a full sized saw (versus the largest jobsite) translates to a significantly increased (70%) table and rip fence capacity before the blade*. We're not talking ways to augment capacity (i.e. infeed support, auxiliary fences).
*Zero Clearance Insert-ability* - When crosscutting thin veneers and sheet goods, the *right blade and a ZCI are your two best friends to fight tearout*. While many popular saws have after market ZCIs, for long-term ownership and blade changes, having the ability to make your own will prove to be economical options.
*Mobility* - This criteria takes on two forms; the *mobility to regularly move it within the confines of semi-permanent home that is adequately protected from the elements (i.e. home workshop)* or the *mobility to regularly transport the tool to and from different locations, terrains, and elevations (i.e. storage to jobsite/workspace)*. 
*Price, Time, and Mechanical Expertise* - Ultimately, one has to *balance the saw they want, with the monetary and time constraints, tempered with their ability to tune/refurbish the saw*. Without the money, you can't buy the saw. Without time, you can't properly setup, tune, or refurbish a saw. Without the mechanical expertise, well odds are you'll have to pay someone else for their time and mechanical expertise to setup your saw.

*Considerations:* Balancing these criteria is the challenge that any table saw prospector will likely face. My intent is not to tackle the old vs new tools or patented safety feature question. Rather, to focus on ranking of selection criteria. One must identify their non-negotiable first. For any aspiring woodworker, *if one of those non-negotiable criteria is mobility to regularly transport the tool to and from different locations, terrains, and elevations, then that would fix your selection into the jobsite saw category*. In my case, that flavor of mobility WAS a non-negotiable criteria, forcing me into the jobsite saw category. I wrote about my application of these criteria in another blog post, describing how I picked my saw. 

If you mobility is not a non-negotiable criteria, or you have the option for mobility to move your table saw within the confines of a semi-permanent home, then it helps to know why the price point between a high-end jobsite saw and the entry level full-sized (contractor/hybrid) table saws is a matter of compromises. After doing my research, I come to the following conclusions about the compromises:

*Arguments for a jobsite saw:*

*Safety Features* - Most manufacturers that make saws in this price bracket or below offer a two-position riving knife that allows the blade guard to connect onto it. As of this post, there is little differentiation between jobsite and entry-level full size saws, with the exception of the Dewalt DWE7490/DWE7491/DWE7499. That is the saw includes a separate riving knife and blade guard with dust collection. 
*Zero Clearance Insert-ability* - Manufacturers carefully balance the features they support to create differentiation. In the case of entry-level full sized saws, at the time of this post they all come with thin metal insert plates, making it difficult (albeit not impossible) to make your own ZCIs. While after market inserts are available, they can get pricey for longterm ownership and replacement. The top saws from Bosch and Dewalt both have 1/2" insert plate openings, making it easy to make your own insert plate.

*Arguments for an entry-level full-sized saw:*

*Fence* - Jobsite saws with 24"+ of rip capacity tend to have a single extendable rail fence system. Entry-level full-sized table saws vary from enlarged versions of jobsite fence designs to cost reduced Biesemeyer style fence systems. While they may be more finnicky to setup thanks to most saws incorporating a split-rail designs, they tend to be better out the box, offer larger length/capacity, and allows for the of after-market replacements.
*Ease of Alignment* - Aligning a jobsite saw varies from a magic trick (to even loosen the bolts holding the saw "trunnion" to the table to being extremely challenging based on the enclosed setup. Event the open-cage designs introduce the challenge of needing 3-4 arms to properly execute. Entry-level full-sized table saws run the gamut, and should be looked at on a case-by-case, saw-by-saw basis. Chances are, if the saw has been available for a while, the information about alignment will be well discussed and criticized on forums.
*Power* - Comparing universal motors and induction motors are like comparing apples and oranges. Both come from trees (anyone want to cut it down for lumber) and you can eat it, but they work towards different design criteria. From my research, if you do the physics math on it, a universal motor is less efficient than an induction motor, hence the higher RPMs to compensate. It also means that amp for amp, it's easier to bog down a universal motor than an induction motor.
*Stability* - Dampening vibration comes down to a physics problem. If you slow down the rate that movement changes (i.e. with soft start) or increase the mass (heavier saw or affixing the saw to something heavy), you can control vibration. If you're considering increasing the mass, the natural question to ask is, IF you're looking at a similar price point (and I emphasize the IF) why you didn't go with the bigger, heavier saw in the first place. 
*Table Size* - Entry-level full-sized saws offer 12"+ vs 7" of infeed space. Or to put it another way, 70% more table and rip fence capacity before the blade.


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## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

paxorion said:


> *Jobsite vs Entry fullsize table saw - A detailed analysis *
> 
> The table saw is my most used tool for woodworking. Given it's utility in woodworking, it is arguably the tool that shouldn't be skimped out on. Yet over the years, the question of "which table saw is right for me" question is posted time and time again by new woodworkers, with a price point that is fixed to a specific niche, between a high-end jobsite saw and the entry level full-sized (contractor/hybrid) table saws (as of the date of this post, somewhere between $500-$600).
> 
> ...


 From my research, if you do the physics math on it, a universal motor is less efficient than an induction motor, hence the higher RPMs to compensate. It also means that amp for amp, it's easier to bog down a universal motor than an induction motor.

Good reasoning, just a little amplification - universal motors are generally lighter and smaller than induction motors of the same capacity. That is a large part of the reason they get used on job-site saws - it just makes them lighter and easier to move.

mechanical horsepower = torque X RPM.

For two motors of identical HP:
universal motor → higher speed → lower torque
induction motor → lower speed → higher torque

Torque is what determines how easy it is to bog down the motor.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

paxorion said:


> *Jobsite vs Entry fullsize table saw - A detailed analysis *
> 
> The table saw is my most used tool for woodworking. Given it's utility in woodworking, it is arguably the tool that shouldn't be skimped out on. Yet over the years, the question of "which table saw is right for me" question is posted time and time again by new woodworkers, with a price point that is fixed to a specific niche, between a high-end jobsite saw and the entry level full-sized (contractor/hybrid) table saws (as of the date of this post, somewhere between $500-$600).
> 
> ...


You have done well Grasshopper! Excellent write up! Thanks for taking the time to share this.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

paxorion said:


> *Jobsite vs Entry fullsize table saw - A detailed analysis *
> 
> The table saw is my most used tool for woodworking. Given it's utility in woodworking, it is arguably the tool that shouldn't be skimped out on. Yet over the years, the question of "which table saw is right for me" question is posted time and time again by new woodworkers, with a price point that is fixed to a specific niche, between a high-end jobsite saw and the entry level full-sized (contractor/hybrid) table saws (as of the date of this post, somewhere between $500-$600).
> 
> ...


I realize this is your story and analysis (good job!!), and my comments are directed at readers who may be in a similar situation to mine - space challenged.

While any of the saws can be put on a mobile base for shop mobility, one item you did not include, and was non-negotiable for me, was what I will call "standing footprint", meaning overall footprint of the saw with all mechanisms collapsed (such as fence rails) but nothing disassembled. As I recall from my saw search (3 years ago), non of the entry level full size saws had sliding fence rails, hence the standing footprint was 50-60 inches wide, which would not and still will not work for my situation. With the Bosch 4100 I chose (mounted on a shop made cart vs the larger Bosch stand) I can make up to 25" rip cuts and quickly collapse the rails back down. While the 12" blade lead in on the full size saws would be very nice, I didn't find that feature on a saw with collapsing rails.

Many make a huge deal out of induction vs universal motors. While I won't debate induction superiority, I do question the necessity. I've used smaller jobsite saws that would bog down, but the 4100 has not had an issue with bogging. I don't doubt that if you jam 3" thick oak down its throat fast enough it will bog, but it has cut through 3" oak at the feed rates I use just fine. It's also an easy enough process to align the blade - done once when new (slightly off) and has stayed in place.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

paxorion said:


> *Jobsite vs Entry fullsize table saw - A detailed analysis *
> 
> The table saw is my most used tool for woodworking. Given it's utility in woodworking, it is arguably the tool that shouldn't be skimped out on. Yet over the years, the question of "which table saw is right for me" question is posted time and time again by new woodworkers, with a price point that is fixed to a specific niche, between a high-end jobsite saw and the entry level full-sized (contractor/hybrid) table saws (as of the date of this post, somewhere between $500-$600).
> 
> ...


Nice write-up paxorion! Good additions by EEngineer and OSU55, as well.

To continue the universal vs induction motor discussion, a couple other reasons for induction motors are longer life and much lower noise levels. That is a large part of the necessity. A universal motor is not designed to run for long periods of time, while a good induction motor will be fine with extended run times under load.


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

paxorion said:


> *Jobsite vs Entry fullsize table saw - A detailed analysis *
> 
> The table saw is my most used tool for woodworking. Given it's utility in woodworking, it is arguably the tool that shouldn't be skimped out on. Yet over the years, the question of "which table saw is right for me" question is posted time and time again by new woodworkers, with a price point that is fixed to a specific niche, between a high-end jobsite saw and the entry level full-sized (contractor/hybrid) table saws (as of the date of this post, somewhere between $500-$600).
> 
> ...





> I realize this is your story and analysis (good job!!), and my comments are directed at readers who may be in a similar situation to mine - space challenged.
> 
> While any of the saws can be put on a mobile base for shop mobility, one item you did not include, and was non-negotiable for me, was what I will call "standing footprint", meaning overall footprint of the saw with all mechanisms collapsed (such as fence rails) but nothing disassembled. As I recall from my saw search (3 years ago), non of the entry level full size saws had sliding fence rails, hence the standing footprint was 50-60 inches wide, which would not and still will not work for my situation. With the Bosch 4100 I chose (mounted on a shop made cart vs the larger Bosch stand) I can make up to 25" rip cuts and quickly collapse the rails back down. While the 12" blade lead in on the full size saws would be very nice, I didn t find that feature on a saw with collapsing rails.
> 
> ...


Great point on the standing footprint. It will undoubtably matter based on an individual's specific scenario and requirements/criteria for adequate storage.


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

paxorion said:


> *Jobsite vs Entry fullsize table saw - A detailed analysis *
> 
> The table saw is my most used tool for woodworking. Given it's utility in woodworking, it is arguably the tool that shouldn't be skimped out on. Yet over the years, the question of "which table saw is right for me" question is posted time and time again by new woodworkers, with a price point that is fixed to a specific niche, between a high-end jobsite saw and the entry level full-sized (contractor/hybrid) table saws (as of the date of this post, somewhere between $500-$600).
> 
> ...





> From my research, if you do the physics math on it, a universal motor is less efficient than an induction motor, hence the higher RPMs to compensate. It also means that amp for amp, it's easier to bog down a universal motor than an induction motor.
> 
> Good reasoning, just a little amplification - universal motors are generally lighter and smaller than induction motors of the same capacity. That is a large part of the reason they get used on job-site saws - it just makes them lighter and easier to move.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the additional piece of information. The engineer in my is enjoying this extra detail.


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## Grumpymike (Jan 23, 2012)

paxorion said:


> *Jobsite vs Entry fullsize table saw - A detailed analysis *
> 
> The table saw is my most used tool for woodworking. Given it's utility in woodworking, it is arguably the tool that shouldn't be skimped out on. Yet over the years, the question of "which table saw is right for me" question is posted time and time again by new woodworkers, with a price point that is fixed to a specific niche, between a high-end jobsite saw and the entry level full-sized (contractor/hybrid) table saws (as of the date of this post, somewhere between $500-$600).
> 
> ...


Hi Paxorion,
I, like you searched for over a year and over thought every detail on many, many table saws. I even wrote an entry on LJ's of my process. 
I really didn't want to pay the extra $1000.00 for the hot dog sensing unit. I did want certain features, and found the best bang for My buck at Grizzley. I got a full 2 HP motor instead of the 1.50 or 1.70 HP on the other saws, that was the swaying factor for me.
The fence was the highest priority, because I had limped by with a less than quality fence for years … Grrrr. 
I put a Shop Fox base under this heavy saw for mobility, but it will never go to a jobsite.
I am anxious to hear what your choice will turn out to be.
Thanks for your post.


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

paxorion said:


> *Jobsite vs Entry fullsize table saw - A detailed analysis *
> 
> The table saw is my most used tool for woodworking. Given it's utility in woodworking, it is arguably the tool that shouldn't be skimped out on. Yet over the years, the question of "which table saw is right for me" question is posted time and time again by new woodworkers, with a price point that is fixed to a specific niche, between a high-end jobsite saw and the entry level full-sized (contractor/hybrid) table saws (as of the date of this post, somewhere between $500-$600).
> 
> ...





> Hi Paxorion,
> I, like you searched for over a year and over thought every detail on many, many table saws. I even wrote an entry on LJ s of my process.
> I really didn t want to pay the extra $1000.00 for the hot dog sensing unit. I did want certain features, and found the best bang for My buck at Grizzley. I got a full 2 HP motor instead of the 1.50 or 1.70 HP on the other saws, that was the swaying factor for me.
> The fence was the highest priority, because I had limped by with a less than quality fence for years … Grrrr.
> ...


Mike, I already got the Dewalt DWE7491RS and have been using it since last summer (I believe). The entire experience was a very big long process and I learned a lot to help me with my decision process for eventually a cabinet saw (space permitting). Haven't had the time write out my weighted selection criteria and write my rationale just yet, but as a preview, it was a very close competition between the Dewalt DWE7491RS and the Bosch 4100.


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## Grumpymike (Jan 23, 2012)

paxorion said:


> *Jobsite vs Entry fullsize table saw - A detailed analysis *
> 
> The table saw is my most used tool for woodworking. Given it's utility in woodworking, it is arguably the tool that shouldn't be skimped out on. Yet over the years, the question of "which table saw is right for me" question is posted time and time again by new woodworkers, with a price point that is fixed to a specific niche, between a high-end jobsite saw and the entry level full-sized (contractor/hybrid) table saws (as of the date of this post, somewhere between $500-$600).
> 
> ...


I read the specs and sales propaganda on both saws, I can see why you say close competition. 
For a Job site saw, they both look like they will do the job very well.
I'm very partial to the 220v. cabinet saw, and I like to kid my neighbor about his "toy" saw. (but they both cut wood, and that's what it's all about).
Good Luck with your new saw … and do it safely.


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

*How I picked my table saw*

After writing a blog article describing my table saw selection criteria, I wanted to share how that train of thought helped me make an informed decision on the right table saw (for me).

*Context:* My reasons for replacing my Skil 3305 are documented in my previous blog post. Given a poor and negative experience with that first saw, I wanted to ensure I picked my second table saw that was appropriate for my current living situation. Due to my living situation being a townhouse with no garage, I needed a saw that could be wheeled in and out of my house, to my backyard and across several changes in elevation. This pigeonholed me into the jobsite saw category.

Contenders: The search began in the December of 2012 and lasted up until summer of 2014. My wife can tell you that not a week went by where I did not lament our decision to buy a house without a garage. Throughout that time, I came up with and evaluated a few contenders, to include the following saws:

Bosch 4100 (with or without stand)
DeWalt DW744 (with scissor stand or the mobile cart)
DeWalt DWE7490X and DWE7491RS (as of September 2013)
Ridgid R4510
Porter Cable PC222TS (as of March of 2014)
Kobalt KT1015 (as of November 2013)

*Criteria:* Using the criteria that I had established in my table saw analysis criteria post, I decided on weights (from 1 - 5, where the higher the weights means greater consideration) for each of the criteria to help me better rank the contenders. My logic for the weights were as follows:

*Fence* - The fence category was by far the most important criteria and the sole recipient of a 5 weight. I also found that there was too much variability amongst the saws, with the high end jobsite saws (Bosch, Dewalt, Ridgid) each having pros and cons, warranting me to I break up the criteria into two categories of equal weight; reliable locking and resisting deflection. 
*Ease of Alignment* - Given the importance of proper alignment, I assigned a weight of 4 to this criteria. Many in-store glares (and several employee interventions when I flipped the saw upside down) were received as I assessed my level of access to the mounting bolts to adjust blade alignment. 
*Power* - When comparing all of the saws, there was little differentiation given that they all featured 15 amp motors. Therefore I opted to assign a weight of 1 to this criteria. 
*Stability* - It was hard to identify clear determining factors for this criteria. Eventually I settled on looking solely at soft start and saw weight (with and without the stand) as the determining factors for this criteria. Given the unscientific approach I was taking, I couldn't bring myself to give a weight higher than 2 for this criteria.
*Safety Features* - All but the latest generation of DeWalt saws featured a similar two position blade guard/riving knife design. Given the lack of differentiation (tempered with the cool factor of the latest generation of DeWalt saw providing a separate blade guard and riving knife, as well as the clever implementation of tool-free quick-release), I assigned a low weight of 2 for this criteria.
*Miter Channels* - All of the saws I considered had standard 3/4" x 3/8" T-slot miter channels. To introduce differentiation, I considered the quality of the miter gauge included with the saw, and the likelihood that I would want to replace it immediately after getting the saw. Given the cost of aftermarket miter gauges (ranging from $50 to a lot more), I assigned a weight of 3 for this criteria. 
*Table Size* - My experience with full sized saws made me think long and hard about the importance of this criteria. My old saw had 5" of space before the blade, and knowing that even moderate jumps equate to significant differences in saw capacity, I assigned a weight of 4 for this category.
*Zero Clearance Insert-ability* - I knew that I had a lot of sheet good projects in my future, and I wanted to get saw that would give me all the advantages I could get to avoid tearout. Therefore, this criteria received a high weight of 4, and would be assessed by (a) the availability of aftermarket ZCIs and (b) the ease by which I could make my own.
*Mobility* - Since I was solely looking at jobsite saws, I wasn't 100% sure how I would rate mobility. Eventually I decided on a low weight of 1, with a sole consideration on whether or not it had a wheeled mobile base, so that I could use if it so desired.
*Dado Stack Support* - Given that 2 of the saws did not support a full ~3/4" dado stack, I had to add this criteria for versatility, and assigned a weight of 3. This criteria was also what ruled out the Bosch GTS1031 and Dewalt DW745 and DWE7480 from being contenders.
*Price* - Price is always a factor, and received a weight of 3. Thankfully, I was able to stretch out my indecision to mean that my woodworking funds allowed me afford any saw amongst the contenders.

*Considerations:* I went through each category, and ranked the saws in my order of preference for each category. As I went through each category, I found that:

*Fence* - The high end saws had mixed results. The DeWalt rack and pinion system meant reliable positioning and locking of the fence. However the Bosch and Ridgid had a more substantial fence meaning it would be better at resisting deflection. The Porter Cable and Kobalt demonstrated compromise for cost savings across the board and ranked lower.
*Ease of Alignment* - Certain saw (open cage) designs naturally leads to greater accessibility and thereby ranked higher. Therefore the DeWalt DWE7490X and DWE7491RS got top nods, followed by the Bosch, DeWalt DW744X, and Ridgid. The Porter Cable and Kobalt scored last, by virtue of being smaller saws.
*Power* - Given that all the saws came with 15 amp universal motors, I considered it a tie across the board. 
*Stability* - My unscientific approach led to 2 rankings. If the saw had soft start and a total tool weight coming close to 100lbs, it tied for 1st place. Otherwise, it would receive 2nd place.
*Safety Features* - The only saw that showed differentiation in this criteria was the DeWalt DWE7490X and DWE7491RS thanks to the blade guard and riving knife design. When I first played with in at Lowes, I was sold in its user friendliness potential. Therefore, they were the 1st place contenders in this criteria, with all other saws receiving 2nd place
*Miter Channels* - Each saw varied in the quality of the included miter gauge. The Bosch and Ridgid had the best miter gauges that I figured I could live with, whereas the other saws seemed to include a miter gauge just to check the box. 
*Table Size* - All the Bosch, DeWalt, and Ridgid saws offered similar sized main tables, and were the 1st place contenders, with the Porter Cable and Kobalt being 2nd place. 
*Zero Clearance Insert-ability* - The Bosch and DeWalt saws both ranked 1st place, thanks to the availability of aftermarket ZCIs, and a ~1/2" insert plate which meant I could make my own. The Ridgid has aftermarket ZCIs but the thin metal insert plate means extra steps (and risk of failure) in making ZCIs and therefore ranked 2nd place. The Porter Cable and Kobalt felt questionable, and therefore ranked lowest at 3rd place.
*Mobility* - Given my criteria, all saws were 1st place if they had a wheeled mobile base, and 2nd if they didn't
*Dado Stack Support* - The Bosch, DeWalt, and Ridgid all support 3/4" dado stacks and ranked 1st place, with the Porter Cable and Kobalt were 2nd place.
*Price* - With a budget of $600, I decided to tier 1st place to saws up to $300 (before sales), 2nd saws up to $500 (before sales), and 3rd for saws that border my budget ceiling. I opted to not factor in sales for this post as my Excel spreadsheet that captured rankings could be easily updated to account for price changes.

After tallying up the weight average, I came up with the following answer results.










*Conclusion:* It's no surprise that the 3 top contenders were from the Bosch, DeWalt, and Ridgid. The long period of inaction proved to be invaluable as the saw I ultimately got (the DeWalt DWE7491RS) represents a rather substantial jump up, from being 3rd to 1st. The changes DeWalt introduced (specifically the blade guard with dust collection and stand alone riving knife) were significant enough value proposition advantages for me to pick them, and I hope that for the consumer and competition's sake, other tool manufacturers (specifically Bosch) to up their game and come up with more innovation. I also picked the more expensive DWE7491RS, as a test to see how often I would need a rip capacity of over 24", to help inform my next saw purchase (so far I've only needed it once).

While this saw is serving me well, I do have periods of "grass is greener on the other side with Bosch or Ridgid" thoughts whenever I feel like there is a risk of fence deflection. That really kicked in after several poor crosscuts, and I played with the numbers to account for the cost of an Incra V120 miter gauge (bringing the Bosch and DeWalt to a tie). However, after several paranoid checks for blade to fence parallelism, I am now confident that the compromise for the rack and pinion fence is worth the risk of deflection (assuming it does exist). Not to mention, I bought an Incra 1000HD which makes the bad crosscutting a distant memory.

The experience taught me a lot about my own preferences, and will help me in considering my next saw, which will hopefully be in a living situation where I won't be constrained to a jobsite saw. Take my experience for what it is; my unique experience, opinions, and assessment. We each have our own criteria and will weight that criteria differently. In addition, some folks may be more willing to build jigs and augment a cheaper tool. At this stage in my life, time is a valuable resource that I am willing to trade (to an extent) for something that won't require a lot of time investment to get up and running. I will also note that this saw isn't my primary saw. While I have build projects exclusively with this saw as the primary tool, I am privileged to have access to a public pay-per-use shop (with a SawStop ICS), my guild shop (with a SawStop contractor saw with T-Glide fence), and a makerspace (with a Delta X5). Therefore, it made the decision to buy a jobsite saw for personal use easier to accept.


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## RogueKyle (Jan 7, 2015)

paxorion said:


> *How I picked my table saw*
> 
> After writing a blog article describing my table saw selection criteria, I wanted to share how that train of thought helped me make an informed decision on the right table saw (for me).
> 
> ...


Nice write up, I really like your evaluation method being well rounded withing a category (job-site). I feel like I am in a very similar place, this is helpful. Thank you.


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## TheGreatJon (Jan 9, 2015)

paxorion said:


> *How I picked my table saw*
> 
> After writing a blog article describing my table saw selection criteria, I wanted to share how that train of thought helped me make an informed decision on the right table saw (for me).
> 
> ...


Are you an engineer? Your weighting system looks oddly similar to something I drew up to help us pick out our first kid's name…


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

paxorion said:


> *How I picked my table saw*
> 
> After writing a blog article describing my table saw selection criteria, I wanted to share how that train of thought helped me make an informed decision on the right table saw (for me).
> 
> ...





> Are you an engineer? Your weighting system looks oddly similar to something I drew up to help us pick out our first kid s name…
> 
> - TheGreatJon


Maybe, but I definitely play one TV. Wait, did I get that quote wrong? Better analyze it word for word.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

paxorion said:


> *How I picked my table saw*
> 
> After writing a blog article describing my table saw selection criteria, I wanted to share how that train of thought helped me make an informed decision on the right table saw (for me).
> 
> ...


I'm sure you stayed at a holiday inn express though


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

paxorion said:


> *How I picked my table saw*
> 
> After writing a blog article describing my table saw selection criteria, I wanted to share how that train of thought helped me make an informed decision on the right table saw (for me).
> 
> ...


Outstanding write-up. A must read for anyone sifting through the portable jobsite saw market.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

paxorion said:


> *How I picked my table saw*
> 
> After writing a blog article describing my table saw selection criteria, I wanted to share how that train of thought helped me make an informed decision on the right table saw (for me).
> 
> ...


Great write-up. Favorited so when ever I DO get around to seriously be in the market for a table saw. Thanks Pax


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

paxorion said:


> *How I picked my table saw*
> 
> After writing a blog article describing my table saw selection criteria, I wanted to share how that train of thought helped me make an informed decision on the right table saw (for me).
> 
> ...





> Outstanding write-up. A must read for anyone sifting through the portable jobsite saw market.
> 
> - knotscott


Thanks. I decided to move this under my tips blog, and will plan to update it as new saws are released.


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## rakkud (Jun 10, 2015)

paxorion said:


> *How I picked my table saw*
> 
> After writing a blog article describing my table saw selection criteria, I wanted to share how that train of thought helped me make an informed decision on the right table saw (for me).
> 
> ...


Thanks for the excellent writeup. I have a couple of questions about the deWalt:
- do you think the blade height varies during a non-through cut? The Ridgid is the only saw in this category with a blade height lock
- how easy is it to attach a sacrificial fence? It seems like clamping something to the deWalt fence could potentially distort the fence given that it is made of thin aluminum
- does the rack and pinion mechanism show signs of wear so far?
- the Bosch seems to have a better supported throat plate (middle and corner supports compared to the corner supports in the deWalt). Have you tried making ZCIs for your saw, and do they tend to flex? The throat plate that comes with the deWalt saw itself seems to be very rigid and the best of any saw I have come across.

Thanks!


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

paxorion said:


> *How I picked my table saw*
> 
> After writing a blog article describing my table saw selection criteria, I wanted to share how that train of thought helped me make an informed decision on the right table saw (for me).
> 
> ...


See answers below:


> Thanks for the excellent writeup. I have a couple of questions about the deWalt:
> - do you think the blade height varies during a non-through cut? The Ridgid is the only saw in this category with a blade height lock


No, there has been no sign of variation in the blade height during use.



> - how easy is it to attach a sacrificial fence? It seems like clamping something to the deWalt fence could potentially distort the fence given that it is made of thin aluminum


I use the Rockler Universal Fence clamps or a low duty Irwin Quick Clamp. I do share concerns about deflection and issues on the aluminum fence so I don't exactly dial in the pressure. So far no problems.



> - does the rack and pinion mechanism show signs of wear so far?


None at all after a year of use.



> - the Bosch seems to have a better supported throat plate (middle and corner supports compared to the corner supports in the deWalt). Have you tried making ZCIs for your saw, and do they tend to flex? The throat plate that comes with the deWalt saw itself seems to be very rigid and the best of any saw I have come across.


Yes, I use 1/2 MDF and batched out 10 of them in one go. I had to clear out a small channel on one side of the ZCI due to the fabric part of the dust shroud, but that was maybe 1/8th of material. No flex with the 1/2 MDF.


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