# New To Veneering - How Do I Venner A Cylinder?



## rrww (Aug 12, 2012)

I have never worked with veneer before and I don't have any veneer supplies. I have a round cylinder 30" tall and about 12" accross & it has to be covered with oak veneer. The cylinder is MDF. The top and bottom will be solid oak.

Whats the difference between the paperbacked & adhesive backed veneers? I'm a little confused about which one to get. I don't have a vac system, am I going to need a bag & pump?

I'm not totally against getting a vac setup, but I would like to play around a little more before shelling out the cash for a decent setup.

Thanks for the help


----------



## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Contact cement. Be careful not to get bubbles under the
veneer. Use paper backed. Veneering cylinders with a 
vacuum bag is problematic.

I've never used adhesive backed veneer but I assume it
is paperbacked with a peel and stick adhesive.

You can also apply PVA glue to both surfaces, let it
dry, then use an iron to reactivate the glue and
stick the veneer to the cylinder.


----------



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

If you have a lathe, buy some oak. Much easier. I'd even invest in a lathe before I tried veneer. 
I'd start one end with some CA, then when that dries you can wrap the cylinder easier and use the proper veneer glue, which if I'm not mistaken is a white glue of some type. You can trim the end off when it's dry and tack that down with some clamps. Thing is, when it dries, it will want to shrink and there isn't much you can do except leave the end long and trim it after the glue dries.


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

I'm with Loren on this.

As for the seam. Make yourself a seaming jig out of solid wood. It should be 32" long so it extends beyond the cylinder. 1" wide and 1/4" thick down to zero across the 1" direction. Laminate the 1/4" edge with mica.

Once you have glued most of the veneer to the cylinder lay your jig across it with the 1/4" edge up against the already stuck down edge of veneer. Roll the loose veneer over the jig and using a flush trim bit in a router against the 1/4" edge trim the veneer off. Sand that edge you just cut so there is no loose paper underneath. Now fold that edge up against the original edge of veneer and press in place. Comes out perfect everytime.


----------



## Hammerthumb (Dec 28, 2012)

I have seen this done using strips of old inner tube rubber from bicicyle tires that are wrapped
Around the cylinder with wax paper between the veneer and the rubber. No
Vacuum needed.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

Use real veneer. Paper backed is so thin you will never be able to sand it.
There are real advantages to using liquid hide glue here. I 'd recommend Old Brown Glue but that's a personal choice.
Apply the LHG to the cylinder. Then wrap a piece of veneer long enough to overlap at the seam and secure with a wide elastic strip (available at drug stores for exercise aids). After allowing the glue to cure and stabilize dimensionally (24hours), remove the strip and cut down the overlapped area with a razor blade making sure you are cutting both layers. Now a little warm water on a cloth will allow you to remove the outer scrap, lift the edge, and remove the inner scrap and reset the seam. The fit will be perfect.


----------

