# Any ideas for a shop-made Splitter for Table Saw



## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

I have to cut 12/4 Maple…but regardless, I have 8/4, 6/4, 5/4, and 4/4, and some long lengths (Bed).
Anybody have any home-made tricks/jigs for keeping the board from pinching my blade.
I have a shopping cart with a "MJ Splitter" ready to be purchased…BUT they want $28 for a THIN KERF 3/32" version…wtf
So, if anybody has a good, proven shop-made version that I can use, lemme no, K.


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

I think the easiest way is to take/or make a zero clearance insert and cut a knotch in the end of it…behind the blade, then glue a piece of wood in the knotch that is equal to or sightly thinner than the blade thickness.


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

Hey Wayne,
do you do that, or…


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

I have a steel riving knife on mine. I have several of them that are different thicknesses and hights for different applications. You can see one of them (the tallest one) on the saw in the pictures of my shop in my gallery.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Here's one

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/2303


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I have done what Wayne says in the past with saws that
don't have a riving knife. It works great, won't damage
saw teeth and is easy to repair the thing if it gets chewed up.

I just make the slot as wide as the blade, glue a piece of
scrap of appropriate thickness in the slot, then carve the
protruding part to the thickness I want with a chisel and/or
rasp.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

I'd do it like a1Jim.
I'm doing the same soon as the splitter (not riving knife) on my saw refuses to stay aligned.


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