# Pocket Screw or Corner Brace Top Attachment



## splinterking (Oct 27, 2012)

Hi I'm trying to decide between using corner braces or pocket screws to attach a workbench top. I'm retrofitting a bench my dad built about 40 years ago. It's basically just 2×4's and the top was shot so I've made a 3 piece sandwich of MDF which will get hardwood edging and then hardboard like Norm would do. I just can decided how to attach it. I think the corner braces would have the advantage of having more points of contact, but the pocket screws would be a lot less expensive and I could do more of them. Would just like some feedback to help me decide. My big concern with all of it is the screws could get loose in MDF real easy so I'd like to minimize movement as much as possible.

Also I know this really isn't "joinery" in a tradition sense, but I didn't see a better category.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

splinterking-I would go with the corner braces. IMO, pocket screws wouldn't have the strength, and my experience with pocket screws in MDF is something less that satisfactory.


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## splinterking (Oct 27, 2012)

@TheDane: Yeah thats kind of what I thought. I've never used them in mdf, but I had an intuition that might be the case. This was going to be a cheap, quick project that's turn in to a week and just a little more money each day


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

I don't know what the legs are, 2×4s?, 4×4s?, something else?, but would it be possible to attach legs with big tenons, loose tenons, or dowels. 
I could see a 2×2 loose tenon glued in the top of a 4×4 leg and then glued into a mortise in the top as being super strong; even in MDF. And you most likely have the material you need in your scrap bin.

I suggest this because that's kinda the way I built my bench, except it's multilayer plywood, but it's strong enough to support a house.


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## sixstring (Apr 4, 2012)

Since you are sandwiching 3 pieces of mdf… take the bottom 2 layers and cut out holes to match the top of the legs (if possible) and you've got yourself a mortise and tenon'ish joint. Or with a tablesaw or router, make a tenon on the top of the leg and then cut through all 3 layers of the top and you've got yourself a thru-tenon… The 1st option is way less work and i think it would be pretty darn strong paired with an apron or somekind of lateral support for the legs.

Having built my own assembly table / TS outfeed table with MDF and pocket holes… I really wish I came up with this idea sooner but I may end of doing it down the line. Something to think about…


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## splinterking (Oct 27, 2012)

Those are both good suggestions, but the way my dad built it originally it not exactly a standard design. The skirting comes up flush to the top of the legs. So my options are a little limited.


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