# I wanted to really like this saw but dont



## kocgolf (Jun 8, 2012)

I have had mine for almost 5 years and have stalled it maybe 3 times of rip cuts, and I believe all were my fault. Is the fence aligned correctly so it doesn't bind? What blade do you have? Maybe go with a thin kerf?


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## EdsCustomWoodCrafts (Sep 21, 2014)

> I have had mine for almost 5 years and have stalled it maybe 3 times of rip cuts, and I believe all were my fault. Is the fence aligned correctly so it doesn t bind? What blade do you have? Maybe go with a thin kerf?
> 
> - kocgolf


The fence is in alignment when I put it in alignment like my review stated I have to re-alignment the fence guide rail very regularly and I have no doubt that it will knock the fence out.. but how often should a tablesaw user have to align everything like I just opened the box it came in ..

As far as the tablesaw oblade I use a thin kerf 60 tooth Diablo I know it's not a Forrest blade but it is a good blade

I'm just sick of the alignment issues and want to spare someone the headaches that I am having.. ya know


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

I donated mine to the Re-store, I couldn't bring myself to sell it to someone. I would pop the breaker trying to rip white oak. My 1.75 hp sawstop laughs at the same white oak. My image to the left is a piece of white oak the Ridgid buried in the garage door.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

What I like:
Its powerful enough

5. Ant\time I am trying to rip cut hardwoods my saw blade stalls half way through it

sounds to me like contradiction

did you try a sharp blade … I always find …you get what you pay for


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## EdsCustomWoodCrafts (Sep 21, 2014)

> What I like:
> Its powerful enough
> 
> 5. Ant ime I am trying to rip cut hardwoods my saw blade stalls half way through it
> ...


I was talking about it being powerful enough to cut softwoods..

To be honest with you I've been woodworking for a while and I think I know if it is because of a crap blade or an sharpened blade..

I haven't been enlightened or informed by anything that you have written in your reply

Have a fantastic day


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

With the right setup (which your saw may not be capable of given your description), you can rip almost anything with this saw. I have a 113 Craftsman, basically an earlier model of this saw. With a sharp, thin kerf rip blade (24-28 teeth, not 60 teeth), I just ripped some 2" Jatoba. Jatoba laughs at the hardness of white oak. I had to go slowly, no doubt, but it can be done.


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## Kroden (Apr 23, 2012)

I've owned one of these for about 4 years I think, and you're spot on. I used to be a fan of these, but now I'm finally shopping for a higher end saw.

I eventually determined my fence wasn't actually straight, and had a slight bow in it that wasn't visible until I bought a quality straight edge. I believe this caused the binding issues I experienced. Maybe yours is the same? I replaced the stock fence with a biesemeyer a couple years ago and things are much better now.

I agree the saw is a little underpowered. It's decent at cutting 4/4 stock just fine, but anything over it can struggle with depending on the species. Maple being the worst of course.

I also don't believe my arbor is straight. Didn't realize this under I installed a dado stack on it and saw the wobble on the outer part of the stack.

Dust collection works fine though when connected to a real dust collector.


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## kocgolf (Jun 8, 2012)

It's true that this saw has some models that are just flat out bad at alignment. It seems some get lucky. I generally am, and for the price, I still think it was a great buy for me. If you have a model that won't stay aligned, then yeah, it's going to be frustrating to impossible and I don't blame you at all for wanting something new.

BUT, if you were ripping white oak with a 60T? Yeah, NO. Sorry, but 60T, even a Freud thin, is a crosscut blade only in my book, especially for hardwoods. I use a Freud Thin ATB combo and have zero issues with white oak or even jatoba. I have a 60T and an 80T that are for crosscuts or installed on my miter saw.


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

Replace the nuts on the rails with self locking type so the rails will stay tight. Buy a high quality blade and align it properly to the slots in the table. Then align the fence to the blade. Don't try and cut your hardwoods so fast, slow and steady works just fine.


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

"As far as the tablesaw oblade I use a *thin kerf 60 tooth* Diablo I know it's not a Forrest blade but it is a good blade"

I was using a 60 tooth dewalt blade on my dewalt contractors saw and it worked fine for a short while then got hot and the blade would no longer cut right. 
At first I thought it was the fence then switched to a 40 tooth blade and all is well.

*Less teeth for ripping* 
*More teeth for cross cuts.*


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

A dedicated rip blade will help if your saw is underpowered. A 25T or 30T rip blade will require a lot less power than a general purpose or combination blade.


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## Ted78 (Dec 3, 2012)

Hmm, I think the problem must lie more in alignment than power or blade choice. I have an old 60's Rockwell saw with a 1/2 HP motor and cheap full kerf HF combo blade on it, and while not fast, it will rip 1" oak just fine. I do swap the blade out for an old rip blade for anything over an inch thick or so. I don't know that I'd give up on liking the saw quite yet. I'd second the locknuts for the fence rails, and a dedicated rip blade, doesn't have to be real high end, just sharp and properly designed to rip. And if you have a mechanically inclined friend, maybe taking the whole thing apart, and then re-assembling it, making sure everything gets put together lined up and and squared and tightened and torqued up. If this saw uses split ring washers anywhere replace them with the little star looking lock washers and even a second lock not if possible.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

I have an older version of the same saw.

I did this when I got it:
1.) put in a good dust collector - takes care of 80% (design does suck)
2.) on the right side I got some angle iron and put it on the cast iron and rails. On that, I put melamine on that so the table goes out as far as the rails.
3.) put in a heavy enough circuit to run both the dust collector and saw (15 amp)
4.) I use a good Freud blade
5.) for the bolts - there is a new product out there - Locktite. Works wonders
6.) The fence is align-able - do it! If the fence is not aligned correctly (on any TS), it will bind up a rip cut and kick the board back into YOU. This is painful. This also happens when the blade gets dull (happened to me a couple of weeks ago)

In my basement, the wheels are a good thing.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

Bummer to hear that you don't like your saw…

just an FYI (you probably already know this).... ripping with a 60 tooth blade will be very difficult.

Pick up an economical Diablo 24 tooth rip blade and Home Depot and you will see MUCH improvement with your ripping and will not stall as often.

Overall machine rigidity is really necessary to hold alignment. I re-habbed a 40 year old Jet cabinet saw with a Beisemeyer fence and was quite surprised to see how thick and heavy the tube and 'L' channel steal components are. Very stout and heavy. And guess what? It holds it's alignment spot on. Plastic and aluminum just can't give the rigidity needed.

I personally would not sink add'l money into the saw. Save your pennies and look for a solid cabinet saw on the second hand market.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

To be honest with you I've been woodworking for a while and I think I know if it is because of a crap blade or an sharpened blade..

he don't want good advice :<))


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

I just read the first comment and for some reason didn't see his second comment about knowing better.
I've been building houses and helped build dams and water treatment plants over the last 40 or so years and just learned this the hard way a couple a months ago, about using the right blade for the job.
Never had a need for the 40 or 60 tooth blades but building models the walnut and cherry really did a job on them.
So all we're saying is try a new $10 blade and if that doesn't fix it buy a new saw. :-]
You may have got one made on a Friday. :-[


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

I don't understand the condescension in some of these posts.

I purchased a Freud thin kerf rip blade and still had trouble ripping white oak. The alignment issues with this saw are pretty well known. I don't believe there is anything that can be done to fix the issues with this saw. The blade that came with my Sawstop ripped white oak, like butter and hasn't burned any edges yet. My R4512 burned everything except plywood when ripping.


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## EdsCustomWoodCrafts (Sep 21, 2014)

> I don t understand the condescension in some of these posts.
> 
> I purchased a Freud thin kerf rip blade and still had trouble ripping white oak. The alignment issues with this saw are pretty well known. I don t believe there is anything that can be done to fix the issues with this saw. The blade that came with my Sawstop ripped white oak, like butter and hasn t burned any edges yet. My R4512 burned everything except plywood when ripping.
> 
> - RobS888


To be honest neither do I .. last time I right a review or my opinion of a tool … I got s lemon and I'm being pulled apart by it..


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

I wouldn't judge anyone by this topic or what they say about Sawstop.


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## playingwithmywood (Jan 10, 2014)

> Replace the nuts on the rails with self locking type so the rails will stay tight.
> 
> - papadan


100% exact same thought glad you said it and also that is what lock tight is for


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

Edwood, I'll pay shipping and you can just send me this POS saw! ;-)


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## pmayer (Jan 3, 2010)

I set one of these up in my dad's shop a couple years ago. Other than the lengthy and unpleasant setup process, the only downside that I saw was the fence rail. He hasn't had any alignment problems, and I'm super impressed with the power that this saw delivers, and I imagine a hobbyist needing any more power than this. No problem at all ripping 8/4 maple. I can definitely tell a difference in feed rate between this saw and my 3 HP Unisaw, but with the right blade and feed rate my dad can rip whatever he wants on this saw. Based on your description, I think you have a faulty motor and I would request a replacement.


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## woodenwarrior (May 23, 2012)

This might seem like a silly response but I have the earlier version of the Rigid table saw (TS 3650) and I love it!. I had similar problems using it in the beginning with stalling out. Try tightening the belt running the motor to the arbor (move the motor outward). It should be pretty tight. This solved virtually all of my stalling problems. You should easily be able to run 8/4 oak and maple through that saw without it stalling, I do it all the time. I second the locking nut solution for your wandering fence rails. Hope this helps.


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## pmayer (Jan 3, 2010)

After I submitted my previous comment I recalled something that I'm surprised that I forgot about, but it is definitely germane to your situation. After I set up the saw, I made a few test cuts and the performance was pathetic. It took a painfully long time to spin up the blade, and it was bogging and stopping down under the slightest bit of stress even with 4/4 cherry which I felt shouldn't have been any problem for it at all. After 4 hours of setting up the saw and seeing this pathetic performance, I was really frustrated. I decided to turn on the saw and let it run while I ate lunch and thought about what I was going to do about the problem. (If it hadn't taken 4 hours to assemble, I would have just returned it). I wanted to give the motor a chance to get broken in and loosen up any lubricants or rust inhibitors that might have been binding it up, but I had nearly 0% confidence that it would do any good. It ran for about 20 minutes. Then I turned it off, and then back on and tested it. To my shock it worked perfectly, with plenty of power, and it has ever since.


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

I guess I've gotten spoiled and expect my tools to work right first time right out of the box.
My little dewalt contractors saw was one of these, so when it started acting up, not wanting to cut straight I figured I had bumped the fence but for me it was trying to get to smooth a cut with a 60 tooth blade, had been using 40 tooth with no problems resawing short boards for my models,* [to lazy to change blades]* so tried a 60 and worked fine for a short while then it got hot and must have warped just a tad and from then on it felt like the fence was messed up.

*I really appreciate it when those that have had problems* and are willing to help others no have to go through all the trouble finding out whats wrong or at least head them in the right direction.
So thanks woodwarrior and pmayer!!!
I'll shut up now. LOL


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## EdsCustomWoodCrafts (Sep 21, 2014)

> I guess I ve gotten spoiled and expect my tools to work right first time right out of the box.
> My little dewalt contractors saw was one of these, so when it started acting up, not wanting to cut straight I figured I had bumped the fence but for me it was trying to get to smooth a cut with a 60 tooth blade, had been using 40 tooth with no problems resawing short boards for my models,* [to lazy to change blades]* so tried a 60 and worked fine for a short while then it got hot and must have warped just a tad and from then on it felt like the fence was messed up.
> 
> *I really appreciate it when those that have had problems* and are willing to help others no have to go through all the trouble finding out whats wrong or at least head them in the right direction.
> ...


I agree with you htl and among other woodworkers that provide help and advice in solving specific problems and then there are those that just look to blame and criticize the person


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## playingwithmywood (Jan 10, 2014)

> I agree with you htl and among other woodworkers that provide help and advice in solving specific problems and then there are those that just look to blame and criticize the person
> - edwood1975


This is the review section so I feel it is is the perfect place to vet the reviews people post because a year from now someone new will come and read the thread and take advice and have their opinion effected by what they read

If someone make another post asking Hey I would like to solve problems 1…2….3….4….etc or I really would like to give this more stars what am I doing wrong type of post then I think people will be more friendly

This is also the internet and if you are a snowflake and going to melt when challenged it is probably not the right place to communicate


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## EdsCustomWoodCrafts (Sep 21, 2014)

> I agree with you htl and among other woodworkers that provide help and advice in solving specific problems and then there are those that just look to blame and criticize the person
> - edwood1975
> 
> This is the review section so I feel it is is the perfect place to vet the reviews people post because a year from now someone new will come and read the thread and take advice and have their opinion effected by what they read
> ...


Snowflake wow… it's my review and I'll say what i feel it's up to the person reading it to make there own determinations .. just like reviewsthat I read before purchasing this saw there goidbad and ugly reviews.. you can vet all the reviews you but that doesn't give you a stage to attack the reviews own ideas and thoughts on a item he/she purchased.. unless you have anything constructive to say about my review then stop using sound bites


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## EdsCustomWoodCrafts (Sep 21, 2014)

> I don t understand the condescension in some of these posts.
> 
> I purchased a Freud thin kerf rip blade and still had trouble ripping white oak. The alignment issues with this saw are pretty well known. I don t believe there is anything that can be done to fix the issues with this saw. The blade that came with my Sawstop ripped white oak, like butter and hasn t burned any edges yet. My R4512 burned everything except plywood when ripping.
> 
> - RobS888


Someone who understands my frustration thanks


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## woodenwarrior (May 23, 2012)

> I agree with you htl and among other woodworkers that provide help and advice in solving specific problems and then there are those that just look to blame and criticize the person
> - edwood1975
> 
> This is the review section so I feel it is is the perfect place to vet the reviews people post because a year from now someone new will come and read the thread and take advice and have their opinion effected by what they read
> ...


There is a distinct difference between being helpful and being critical for the sake of being critical. I'm certain that every member of this site is a woodworking professional and well versed over many years of experience as to what works and what doesn't work so well…...smell that? That's sarcasm.

While I understand that the self appointed woodworking review police will absolutely disagree with me, there are quite a few people that are turned off by the crappy attitudes that are sometimes on full display.

Have I seen woodwork or reviews that were less than what I would consider great? Absolutely! But I have the self restraint to keep my opinions to myself and allow others to make their own judgement. I'm certain my mom wasnt the only one that gave some sage advice," if you don't have something nice (or helpful) to say then shut the hell up!"


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## EdsCustomWoodCrafts (Sep 21, 2014)

> This is the review section so I feel it is is the perfect place to vet the reviews people post because a year from now someone new will come and read the thread and take advice and have their opinion effected by what they read
> 
> If someone make another post asking Hey I would like to solve problems 1…2….3….4….etc or I really would like to give this more stars what am I doing wrong type of post then I think people will be more friendly
> 
> ...





> This is the review section so I feel it is is the perfect place to vet the reviews people post because a year from now someone new will come and read the thread and take advice and have their opinion effected by what they read
> 
> If someone make another post asking Hey I would like to solve problems 1…2….3….4….etc or I really would like to give this more stars what am I doing wrong type of post then I think people will be more friendly
> 
> ...


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## EdsCustomWoodCrafts (Sep 21, 2014)

> Edwood, I ll pay shipping and you can just send me this POS saw! ;-)
> 
> - papadan


LOL


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## EdsCustomWoodCrafts (Sep 21, 2014)

> This is the review section so I feel it is is the perfect place to vet the reviews people post because a year from now someone new will come and read the thread and take advice and have their opinion effected by what they read
> 
> If someone make another post asking Hey I would like to solve problems 1…2….3….4….etc or I really would like to give this more stars what am I doing wrong type of post then I think people will be more friendly
> 
> ...


I received that very same advice from someone very close to me… Am I wrong thinking that hey this just a review I'm not attacking a person or attacking someone's ideology or religion or something.. I spend the money and time on the saw doesn't that give the " RIGHT TO MY OPINION!" .. it's only in my interest to put this out there that maybe just maybe I'll save a future owner of this product the possibility of the headaches that I have had…

Am I to think that I should only right a review with 5 stars and a more positive feedback on a product on this site, if that's the case I'd rather not review anything and save myself the aggravation in dealing with some nasty comments I've had regarding this review thread…

For the comments making personal reference to my character, get a life and get off your soapbox

I agree with you htl and among other woodworkers that provide help and advice in solving specific problems and then there are those that just look to blame and criticize the person
- edwood1975

I agree with you htl and among other woodworkers that provide help and advice in solving specific problems and then there are those that just look to blame and criticize the person
- edwood1975


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

Ed, I have not meant anything against you. My post was due to my experience with Ridgid equipment and I just wanted to let you know that your saw is a good piece of equipment but it need some serious help to get it straightened out. If you feel like you need to replace it with something different then please feel free. Our opinions are just that Our opinions. I own the first and cheapest of the Ridgid saws. the TS 2400. That is the original portable saw they came out with in 1999. I bought it in 2000. I spent most of a day assembling my saw and setting it up. I have not had to align the rails, trunion, or fence since then. The only thing I did was replaced the miter gauge with a Kreg miter gauge. To this day, I can set the fence to 4 3/4" and my finished piece will be exactly 4 3/4 ", when set to 0 my cuts are square at 90 degree, and 45 degree when set to 45 degree on the gauge. I know several people who have Ridgid saws and they have the same results. I use nothing but hardwoods for my woodworking and can cut 8/4 white oak without fail as well as purple heart or any of the exotics.


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## EdsCustomWoodCrafts (Sep 21, 2014)

> Ed, I have not meant anything against you. My post was due to my experience with Ridgid equipment and I just wanted to let you know that your saw is a good piece of equipment but it need some serious help to get it straightened out. If you feel like you need to replace it with something different then please feel free. Our opinions are just that Our opinions.
> 
> - papadan


Your good my last comment was for someone that personally attacked my character your fine


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## Tetedebois (Feb 11, 2016)

I had one for a year and I think it's a good tool for the price. Now I have a 3hp PCS and of course I don't miss the Ridgid but that saw really did the job once it was properly adjusted. I think you are in fact unlucky and got the wrong saw. My father in law work with my mine and he really enjoy the quietness of it compare to its previous Dewalt jobsite TS.


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

> I had one for a year and I think it s a good tool for the price. Now I have a 3hp PCS and of course I don t miss the Ridgid but that saw really did the job once it was properly adjusted. I think you are in fact unlucky and got the wrong saw. My father in law work with my mine and he really enjoy the quietness of it compare to its previous Dewalt jobsite TS.
> 
> - Alexandre Lussier


Id probably still have mine if it would rip straight. It was quieter and smaller than my sawstop, but what good if it binds the wood?


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## ACP (Aug 10, 2009)

If I may, did you register this saw for the warranty? If you did and are able to take it to a warranty service center they would probably replace the trunions for you. That would solve a lot of alignment issues when raising and lowering the blade.


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

At the time they didn't acknowledge a problem. I'd be surprised if they do now.


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## dcurtis11 (Jan 22, 2017)

I have the R4512 also, and after a year of fighting with a fence system that won't stay square, I decided to replace the fence system. It's cheaper than a new saw and I am very happy I did.

I ordered the Vega Pro 40 off of Amazon, and the price was reasonable and the installation wasn't that complicated.

If you want detailed instructions on how to do it, please email or message me.


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## JonBikeRacer (Jan 5, 2014)

I've had this table saw for about 4 years. With a good, sharp blade (I use Freud 40 and 50 tooth, think kerf) it can slice through 8/4 hard maple, with a slow enough feed rate. I've also cut cut much much harder woods with it, such as African black wood. If you're getting burning on one side of the cut, and not the other, you likely have an alignment issue. If you get it on both sides of the cut, the board is either pinching due to internal stresses, or the blade is dull or dirty.

Good luck


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## Bakin (Oct 16, 2020)

For those that have reported fence alignment issues with their R4512 Rigid Table I just installed some new 3D printed rail guides for the Rigid table saw made available from Summers Woodworking Company and they greatly improved the alignment issues I had been having with the Rigid fence.

The new 3-D Printed guides easily replace the Rigid guides or slides in minutes. The new guides are available from Summers Woodworking for $25 a pair. The new guides are slightly larger than the old Rigid guides fitting tighter and removing the extra space in the fit and reducing the wobble from the old guides. These new guides are smooth, and the fence moves easily.

Try them out; I am completely satisfied with my purchase.

http://www.summerswoodworking.co/p/store.html


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## Bstrom (Aug 30, 2020)

This thread would be better served with suggestions for a replacement. Like, what is your budget? What are your needs? Are you familiar with the variety of saws available? Howe much room do you have. And ad nauseaum…


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