# Not at all what I was expecting for the money



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

1i thing for sure about cabinets is you have to sand and then sand and just when you think your done sand some more :<))


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## sawdustjunkie (Sep 12, 2013)

Wow!! Sorry you're having problems with the sander. I have had mine for almost 2 years and have never had a problem. Yes the sandpaper clogs up and you need to keep it clean.
I use mine to sand cutting boards all the time and it's all hard maple an other hardwoods and have never had a problem.
Unless you're willing o pay a lot more for a larger sander, I really don't think you can get one any better than the Supermax.
As a cabinet maker, I would think you would have a much larger sander than the 19/38 anyway.
Again sorry to hear you are having a problem.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

I hate disappointment like that!

One thing to remember is that the scratches will always be linear and thus very visible, unlike that produced with a random orbit sander. I find that after sanding to 180 grit, I need to start with a 120 grit disc on m ROS to get rid of the lines. Burning is just the nature of the wood. Once the paper burns, you usually cannot "undo" it with the belt cleaner. At that point, I place the paper in a bath of ammonia or Simple Green for a few hours to release the burnt debris.

How "fat" of a cut do you take per pass? In my experience, more than 1/64" is asking for trouble, 1/32" 
on the coarser grits (80 and below).


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## blodgettwoodworking (Aug 15, 2016)

@Gr8hunter You're not just whislin' dixie. If you think you've sanded enough you better sand some more!

@sawdustjunkie. Do you have the same model as I do? The combo? Im starting to think its a problem with the swapable drum heads. I can see how it woukd work with cutting boards, but for production work its not up to the task. I keep close watch for it to clog and have the rubber and air hose handy. It just more work trying to mess around with it. Id be hapoy to trade it for a new festool 6in RO sander.


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## blodgettwoodworking (Aug 15, 2016)

@splintergroup yeah when i get a burn i toss the paper in the bad paper collection ive got. Didnt know you could clean it, ill try the amonia trick cause ive got dozens of old rolls. 
I only do a quarter turn 1/64 or less per pass on 80 and 100, i dont even mess with higher grits anymore.


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## sawdustjunkie (Sep 12, 2013)

The ammonia bath really works! Let the roll soak for a few minutes and then I unroll it and take a brush to clean the gunk off and just let it dry. It works really great. Depending how bad the burn marks are, you can get almost all of it cleaned off and you're ready to go. I have been using that trick for about a year now and have saved many rolls from being thrown out. I also buy my rolls in 50 yard rolls and cut it down to size. It's a lot cheaper.
Online Industrial supply is one of the companies I buy from.


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## AlmostRetired (Jun 11, 2016)

Dang, I was looking at some of their lower priced ones myself. Guess the ROS it is. Maybe I need a good (Festool) ROS instead.

Thoughts?


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Neil,

FWIW

1. If your breaking stuff I would tend to think its operator error, (no real nice way to say it)
2. Did you read the manual before using it I see you are a 8 year Cabinet maker and have just decided to go with the sander, its exactly that a sander and not a thicknesser in disguise although it works in a similar role.
3. If you are burning paper in particular you have possibly got too much pressure on it otherwise resin gum can clog the parer but unlikely with hardwood.
4. After 1 hours work I would expect the paper to be worn out regardless of the brand.
5. Take light passes and expect to pass the material through up to 5 times without any adjustment, dont be concerned all you are doing is passing it in and collecting it at the outfeed your not physically doing the sanding its working for you.
6. Cleaning. You can clean the belts with a pressure cleaner 9After soaking) to unclog them and return them to a looks like new condition, it however does not return the grit. If its worn out its now clean and worn out.
7. Grits. You can fit 36 grit to remove paint, keep the fingers well clear with this grit as you wont just get a friction burn this time! as You need long fingers to change the belts (similar to a prostrate examiner!)
8. I cannot comment on the brush aspects as I have no experience with them but would be skeptical as to the professional sanding finish expected by a cabinet maker.
9. Consumable costs, expect to spend more than the purchase price on belt consumables if you get it purring!

Conclusion: Now that you have heaps of experienced info to operate the machine more effectively I want to see a retest and rewrite later to see if there is any improvement. Otherwise thats $2400 you could have used on Chrismas booze wasted.


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## Bumpy (Jan 30, 2017)

I have the 19-38 also, I have experience some of the same issues as Neil.
My calls to S/M were not returned for over 30 days, I finally got someone on the phone, some assistance but they said it is possible that i received a lemon. Nice answer for spending over 1600.00.

They referred to to a third party that provided more answers than the mfg. Currently I am about 70% satisfied, but Super Max could do better.
is not is not


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## Bumpy (Jan 30, 2017)

Super Max also stated that the 19/38 is not intended for production, just a home shop. They failed to mention that in their advertising.


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## finns (Nov 13, 2009)

Sorry to hear that. I watched the video. Looks like a glorified flap sander and wouldn't expect much out of this unit. Also, 1/16 per pass is asking a lot for any sander, belt or drum. Bets of luck Neal.


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## blodgettwoodworking (Aug 15, 2016)

@AlmostRetired I do not recomend this particular machine. You wont be sorry, however, if you purchase a high quality ROS like Festool or Mirka. These are great tools that will make sanding jobs easier on you and will last a very long time. The results will speak for themselves.

@Robcastle ill answer you point by point i guess.
1. I understand that its hard to believe an expensive machine would have inferior parts, but when you strip the heads of bolts only using an allen wrench and finger tightinging it probably a chinese bolt. In my opinion the machine is expensive because of the tricked out 3phase motor and the little phase converter/speed dial. Then they cheaped out on the small parts. The only grade 8 bolts ive found on this are the four that hold the drum bearings.
2. Believe me ive read the manuel, all 22 pages, it lives next to the machine. I actually do know that its a sander and not a thickness planer. Never said i was planing with it. 
3. Ive run mostly maple and cherry through it, hardwood will clog an 80 grit roll with gentle light passes, feeding at offset angles, doing multiple passes without ajustment. 
4. If I had known i would be replacing rolls every hour that would have been enough for me to not buy it. Its priced at a production level machine, it should be up to the task.
5. I can tell when its working you can hear it. If I run say 20 small doors through 5 times before making any ajustment id be spending too much time. I bought this in hopes of saving time, not wasting it.
6. I agree, when theyre worn out theres not much point in cleaning. I might give that amonia bath a try. Ive got plenty of worn out rolls.
7. Yeah i figured that out without putting my hands on the moving drum.
8. Are you skeptical of my expectations or that a brush that is advertised to sand profile doors wouldnt be acceptable to a professional?
9. Ive gotten her purring, but ill run out of paper, time, and patience before i can get a days work out of it.

You havent told me anything that would make me think you have heaps more experince with this machine than I already have. I will continue to use it at some compacity but not as a go to "daily driver" machine. My review was intended for others who are in the business of making cabinets. Take away from it what you will. It was 15 below zero outside my shop this morning, you dont have to believe me but that doesnt make it any warmer out.

-Neil


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## blodgettwoodworking (Aug 15, 2016)

@bumpy They actually admitted it could be a lemon, that speaks volumes! Did they tell you its not for production work or did you find that written somewhere?

@finns yes its pretty much a flap sander. They say on their website it gives profile doors a hand sanded finish, i couldnt screw up sanding a profile door by hand that bad if i tried. I couldnt make a 1/16" pass if i tried, more like multiple passes then a 1/64" pass.


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## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

I found an old Supermax drum sander that I cleaned up and used for a while and I had all of the same problems Neil was talking about. My dad also had one and he was able to baby his to keep it from burning the paper. I never was able to get a light enough pass to keep from burning the paper. Eventually, I sold it, bought a Jet version because I thought the Supermax was just old and not well tuned. Same problems, so I sold it too and bought the Dewalt 735 (?) planer. It does such a good job planing the wood that I rarely have to get my belt sander out. Most of my sanding is with the Mirka Deros ROS for finish sanding.

I don't regret trying the drum sander out but I'm satisfied that I don't need one in my hobby shop.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Well Neil thanks for the reply, sounds like you hve done everything correctly, and reading the comments it definately sounds like a lemon, sadly.

Point 8 I agree with your results its not capable of producing an acceptable standard a tradesperson would accept let alone present it to a customer.

Sub standard Chinese Bolts and screws. Yep been there done that have a look at this rubbish.










Supplied with Euro style hinges absolute garbage










As for my experience its nil in respect to the machiine and as per the FWIW no workshop no trade experience I do have a couple of drill flap discs though that might redeem me!

Merry Christmas


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

Glad I read this. I think it is a combination of the owner and the unit, but it sounds a whole lot like what I would do.
For me, I've wanted a sander like this for quite a while, but there just doesn't seem to be the absolute technology out there, (yet), that would make me buy one.
Thanks for the comprehensive review!


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## mjheck (Apr 3, 2015)

I've had the 19-38 for about a year now and find the same problems as are talked about in the forum. It works ok for some things like cutting boards and smaller pieces but is definitely not a production machine. My problem with Supermax is that they really don't mention the limitations of their machine in their advertising. I had high hopes when I bought the machine but no matter how careful I am I still get burning and the paper doesn't last especially at the higher grits. I use it mainly when I do projects with figured wood where the planer causes chipping so it is a plus for that but it's not any good for sanding live edge slabs and some of the exotic woods I try to run through it end up burning no matter how careful I am. Fortunately I have a friend with a 52" dual head drum sander. Wish I could afford one of them.


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

The woodworking club I belong to has two 19-38 supermax sanders the only issue we have had is the clips that hold the sand paper goes bad occasionally. They are run pretty much 80% of the time the club is open. So they are abused quite a bit in the course of a day. We have a rule glue ups on the 80 grit sander and no glue ups on the 120 grit sander. We do have problems with the sand paper loading up when some uses pine or glue ups on the 120 grit sander. I have the supermax 16-32 sander and think it is great. I am just a hobby woodworker not a production woodworker.


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## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

My thoughts on this matter are that the original reviewer didn't have the right expectations or didn't use the tool in the right way. I use a 16-32, which is very similar and it works just fine. I also have a 10-20 and it works well too. I use these machines to precision thickness resawed lumber to +/- 0.005 inches. I haven't had any problems. I was never under the impression that any of these machines are production grade.

Depending on what you are doing, a drum sander can get the job done several times faster than a ROS - at least mine can.



> Dang, I was looking at some of their lower priced ones myself. Guess the ROS it is. Maybe I need a good (Festool) ROS instead.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> - AlmostRetired


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## blodgettwoodworking (Aug 15, 2016)

The 16-32 was not the reviewed sander, they are different machines.


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