# Safe finish for hot liquids?



## metroplexchl (Jul 26, 2017)

I looked through archives and didn't find (or maybe I missed) the answer. I want to make plates, bowls, and cups for my family to actually use. Most of the time there will be hot foods and/or liquids in them. Does anyone have any final answers on a safe finish for these that won't alter the taste?

Or can point me to the right archived thread?


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## pjones46 (Mar 1, 2011)

Food Grade Mineral oil.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

I don't think I'd enjoy drinking hot liquid from a cup finished with mineral oil - food grade or not.

Beyond that, I have nothing to say. I took the time to give information about orange wood to the OP, even taking the time to make a color-corrected photograph of the wood. I got no thank you, so strike one and you're out.


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## metroplexchl (Jul 26, 2017)

> Beyond that, I have nothing to say. I took the time to give information about orange wood to the OP, even taking the time to make a color-corrected photograph of the wood. I got no thank you, so strike one and you re out.
> 
> - Rich


What are you talking about? Are you saying I didn't thank you for the photo and information? I posted immediately about it talking about how incredible the wood was and how that was the answer to the OP.

I even said "Woot! Woot!".....

And then you said "You're welcome".....


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## metroplexchl (Jul 26, 2017)

> Food Grade Mineral oil.
> 
> - pjones46


Good idea. Have you eaten or drank from something you've made after finishing with mineral oil? I haven't ever, so forgive my ignorance here. I wonder if it leaves some sort of after taste? What do people who make noggins and kuksas finish with…..if anything I wonder?


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Since people use MO on cutting boards with no problem or taste issues I am sure you'd be ok. I'd heavily soak it overnight then run it through the dishwasher or hand wash it. Mineral oil has no taste. I just dipped my finger in it. Like the label says, it's definitely odorless, colorless and tasteless. I use it on my slate counter tops.

But, thinking about it, my question is why you'd need to coat it with anything. My son carved this spoon almost 15 years ago and it has never been coated with anything. It gets constant use and has probably been through the dishwasher literally 2000 times and has never warped, split or grown hair. It sat overnight last night in spaghetti sauce and it came out of the dishwasher looking like this today. So, other than making the color look richer, why even bother to coat it unless you're having company over and want to show it off?

Plus, haven't wooden bowls and cups been around for 10,000 years or more?


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I did some research on this and as far as I can tell, the only fool proof, film finish for a cup is epoxy. But I didn't want to drink from an epoxy cup. People make birch kuksa with no finish and they work fine but of course they will stain (or maybe not). Sometimes they boil them right after carving which should dry and shrink the wood a little.


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## metroplexchl (Jul 26, 2017)

> Since people use MO on cutting boards with no problem or taste issues I am sure you d be ok. I d heavily soak it overnight then run it through the dishwasher or hand wash it. Mineral oil has no taste. I just dipped my finger in it. Like the label says, it s definitely odorless, colorless and tasteless. I use it on my slate counter tops.
> 
> But, thinking about it, my question is why you d need to coat it with anything. My son carved this spoon almost 15 years ago and it has never been coated with anything. It gets constant use and has probably been through the dishwasher literally 2000 times and has never warped, split or grown hair. It sat overnight last night in spaghetti sauce and it came out of the dishwasher looking like this today. So, other than making the color look richer, why even bother to coat it unless you re having company over and want to show it off?
> - Andybb


that's a good point. For some reason, I thought that some woods were toxic and needed to be coated…


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Watch this before you make your finial choice


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

I think I remember a forum about toxic wood saying that the issue was breathing the dust from such wood. But if a particular wood was toxic why make cups from it? I think you'd have to work hard to find toxic wood to make a cup from.

I guess my thought is that if you don't coat it then there is nothing to wear off.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I would avoid using toxic wood and stick to tight grained domestic species. That's just me.


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

I can't speak for using bowls and cups for "hot" food but I have had great success using a "salad bowl" finish made by either Behlen or General for regular use on plates, platers, and bowls. I usually put on 4 to 5 coats, sanding lightly between each application. In the last 20 years I have only had a problem with one salad bowl that was used almost daily and the finish wore thru allowing the salad dressing oil to get into the wood and stain it. This finish would also seal "toxic" wood if you happen to use it.

I agree that spoon and similar items are probably better treated with mineral oil or I have used processed walnut oil. The latter is polymerized (heat processed) so it soaks in and then hardens the wood. Occasional re-application would be a good idea.


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## metroplexchl (Jul 26, 2017)

Thanks for all the excellent thoughts and answers. Here's what I'll try and report in after a lot of use:

Plates, bowls, spoons-I think I'm going to try a few plates and bowls with no finish, and few with MO, and a few with the Behlen or General salad bowl finish.

Cups, spoons, and bowls for warm/hot stuff-I'll leave untreated and see how it goes

Also, I'll need to learn what woods shouldn't be used for food/drink applications.

Thanks all for helping me process through it!


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I have to agree with all those that tough it was distasteful to drink out of a container finished with any coating.
I not saying that it is unsafe just distasteful.
The only way to eliminate food contact is to line the container with a food safe metal or plastic!
You can then remove the liner for washing and preserve the wooden item both inside and outside!


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

> Thanks for all the excellent thoughts and answers. Here s what I ll try and report in after a lot of use:
> 
> Plates, bowls, spoons-I think I m going to try a few plates and bowls with no finish, and few with MO, and a few with the Behlen or General salad bowl finish.
> 
> ...


I forgot to point out that of the two salad bowl finishes I listed Behlen's goes on a bit thicker and builds faster than Generals otherwise I have found not difference in the final finish. I just wipe them on with a piece of high quality paper towel which can be tossed so there is no clean up.


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## metroplexchl (Jul 26, 2017)

perfect. thx


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## metroplexchl (Jul 26, 2017)

Just saw this cool video on multi-axis turning. At the very end though, she said that she "finishes the drinking cups with CA glue." It sounds like she puts them on cotton balls or something and then swabs them around with hemostats…. She uses them for "coffee, wines, and teas" so it sounds like that's an option to try as well.






chris


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## bigJohninvegas (May 25, 2014)

I have read that back when wood was the standard for plates and cups. Walnut oil was the primary finish.
Items would be submerged in oil for several days, the be allowe to dry. 
It is a drying oil, It and will not turn rancid.
Here is a link to some info. 
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walnut_oil


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

For starters, I want to apologize to Chris for being snotty in my earlier reply. It was just a misunderstanding.

Andy - It looks like your choice does double duty. It not only protects and beautifies the wood, but it keeps you regular at the same time. Win-win.

I'm with John that walnut oil is great stuff. I use it on chopsticks. Mahoney's brand to be specific. However, for protection against stains, etc, I'd probably go with a urethane for any item that was going to have food or drink served in or on it. Any urethane finish is safe for contact with food once it's cured.

An exception is a salad bowl for salad preparation. The classic method is to rub the bowl with a cut clove of garlic and then mix the dressing in the bowl before adding the greens and tossing to pull up the dressing and lightly coat them. For that the walnut oil would be preferred because a urethane finish would be too smooth to get the garlic rubbed into. Of course, if you don't want to go classical chef, then urethane will be more durable and require less maintenance.


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## metroplexchl (Jul 26, 2017)

> I have read that back when wood was the standard for plates and cups. Walnut oil was the primary finish.
> Items would be submerged in oil for several days, the be allowe to dry.
> It is a drying oil, It and will not turn rancid.
> Here is a link to some info.
> ...


that is very cool. I am def going to research that path. thanks


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## metroplexchl (Jul 26, 2017)

> For starters, I want to apologize to Chris for being snotty in my earlier reply. It was just a misunderstanding.
> 
> Andy - It looks like your choice does double duty. It not only protects and beautifies the wood, but it keeps you regular at the same time. Win-win.
> 
> ...


ain't no thing, hermano.


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## metroplexchl (Jul 26, 2017)

> I have read that back when wood was the standard for plates and cups. Walnut oil was the primary finish.
> Items would be submerged in oil for several days, the be allowed to dry.
> It is a drying oil, It and will not turn rancid.
> Here is a link to some info.
> ...


Big John, I've been really curious about what you were saying about historically soaking in walnut oil for days. Do you happen to remember where you read that? I'm very curious….

thanks,

chris


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