# Making a Small Wooden Box



## Don

*Getting Started*

I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.

I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").

I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.

The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.

Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.









Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.









After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper. 

















This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.









Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.









Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.









Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.









This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.









This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


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## Radish

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


Go Don Go! Very elegant splining jig. I had to subscribe to the RSS feed on this one…


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## Treefarmer

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


I can already tell its going to be a winner. Beautiful wood, and I like the addition of the trim. It should set the burl off to great effect. Great progress shots.


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## LeeJ

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


Don;

Absolutely beautiful ! The splines in the miters are larger then I'm used to seeing, and I love it.

It really stands out nicely. Also, as Bob pointed out, the trim added to the lid will make the burk really stand out.

You are going to end up making me build some small wooden boxes, I've had all I can stand, seeing how beautiful they can be!

I hope you're happy! One more hobby to use up my spare time! LOL

I hope you get this done quickly, so I can see the final project photo's.

Also, as Douglas mentioned the jig you used for the splines deserves some explaining.

Lee


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## Tangle

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


Boy, Don, you not only love small wooden boxes, you do a darn good job of making them! That wood is going to be pretty outstanding when you get some finish on it. Outstanding design! I can't wait to see the finished product. Hurry up, will ya!!
Tom


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## DustyDave

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


Don,

Very nice. Great inspiration.

Dave


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## Obi

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


Anyone who has a Barton Box, truly has a work of art.


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## WayneC

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


I can testify to that Obi. The one you have is wonderful.

Looking forward to seeing the completed box Don. It is coming along great.


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## Lboy

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


Thanks Don, for the detail in making this box. I have had it in my mind to make my daughter a jewlery box, but havn't gotten past the thinking about it.


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## MsDebbieP

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


how exciting - getting to watch you build a small wooden box!

I would like to see more on how to do the splines


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## TheGravedigger

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


Fantastic! I've always been scared of making a box because the joinery has to be so precise. You're going to have me trying it before it's over.


----------



## Steffen

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


very nice work Don…


----------



## PanamaJack

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


Great and wonderful work on this blog Don. You really got me interested!

Now I can say: I love small wooden boxes, Don! (With your permission.)


----------



## roosterscoop

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


Can't wait to see the finished project, we all know it will be abeautiful one. Thanks for sharing you process.


----------



## knottypine

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


This is one of the reasons that I joined Lj.com so that I could learn knew things and get ideas to try myself. Don your pictures say a lot and your box look great, the contrast in colors is cool and I would like to use your ideas to come up with something for myself. Great work.


----------



## Karson

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


Don. Now I see it. It was reposted as a blog. Great job.


----------



## Chip

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


Exceptional work as always Don.


----------



## Caliper

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


It's going to be gorgeous. Thans for sharing your progress with us.


----------



## Sawdust2

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


I once made a spline jig to put fake dovetail splines in mitred corners. I should have used claimps to secure the box to the jig like you did.
Now I might make one I would keep.


----------



## mot

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


Just wonderful Don! I'm so behind on everyone's blogs I have a lot of reading to do. This is great instruction, and would sure make a great Cyber Skill Share episode! *hint* *hint*


----------



## Zuki

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


I just linked in from the LJMag.

Neat work there Don.


----------



## drknoxy

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


I'm starting my first small box, and about to start glue up. Any advice on aligning grain direction to make hand planing easier?

I am in the midst of making a wood whisperer cutting board (my 1st wood working project) and I try to generally keep the end grain directions the same. Any tips (outside of a sharp plane)?


----------



## Grumpy

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


DON, QUITE OFTEN THE GOOD ONES ROLL AROUND AGAIN. GREAT JOB.


----------



## helluvawreck

Don said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I blogged a couple of weeks ago about what I should charge for a small box I was asked to make.
> 
> I thought that those of you who haven't delved into the wonderful world of box making might like to journey along with me as I make this commissioned box. I was given the outside dimension for the box, as the owner intends to place it in a chest of drawers, so it must fit the size constraints of the drawer. The box will be 95mm high x 360mm wide x 240mm deep (approximately 3.75" x 14" x 9.5").
> 
> I have selected a wood I've had in my stock for some time. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it to be Northern Queensland Lacy Oak.
> 
> The joinery will be miters with splines. The lid will be a frame and panel with a Burl veneered.
> 
> Below I've milled the box walls to approximately 1/2" thickness, cut the pieces to length and mitered the ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm clamping the Victoria Ash trim to the lid frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried, I plane with a small Stanley adjustable mouth block plane and finish with a scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows that I've decided to add trim to the inside of the frame to highlight the veneered insert panel. I've also cut the rebate to hold the veneered panel using my router table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before cutting for the spline I glued up the lid frame. The box in the foreground is not yet glued up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I used this miter spline jig to cut for the insertion of a spline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the lid glued up with the splines inserted and glued. The box is only dry fitted at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This final shot today shows the box being glued up. I use two picture frame clamps to apply even pressure to the miters. Note that I have stained and inserted the base of the box. The base is 'trapped' in a rebate, but not glued. I have found that installing the base this way when using mitered joinery helps to keep the corners square and stop the miter joint from creeping when the glue is drying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents about eight hours of work thus far. More pictures in a few days when I progress.


*Don*, this is very interesting and I'll look forward to your next presentation.

helluvawreck
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## Don

*Spline Jig*

In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.

A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.

It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*




























Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.










A close-up of the spline slots.


----------



## MsDebbieP

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


it looks so simple


----------



## LeeJ

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Don;

From these angles, it's easy to see. In the earlier photo, it looked like the box would be several inches from the saw table. Had me bewildered.

Thanks for posting this!

Lee


----------



## TomFran

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Don,
Thanks a lot for your willingness to share your knowledge. The pictures are very helpful.

Isn't it amazing that some of our jigs, although not very attactive, do an amazing job at their intended purpose?


----------



## PanamaJack

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Great pictorial Don. Another great blog.


----------



## Tangle

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Don, Thanks for sharing. Seems the first of these I saw was in R. J. DeChristophoro's Book "The Complete Book of Power Tools" I see no reason that our jigs need to look like our furniture. They only need to be functional. Most I use once or twice and that's it. Your box works very well and that is what you expect from it. Keep going with these boxes, Don, because I just happen to LIKE little wooden boxes alot too.


----------



## roosterscoop

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


thanks for the closeups. This could be in shop notes, in the shop it's all about fuctionality not the beauty, that is what should be the end product. Of which you have many great examples.


----------



## mot

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Well, that clears that up! Thanks for the post Don! Great tutorial. (subliminal CSS plug being sent down under)


----------



## Brad_Nailor

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Great jig. Who cares what it looks like..if it does what its supposed to do its awesome! I am going to build one just like it! I love miters and I like the splines for decorative more than structural purposes. I love the angled effect too..a little tweak that makes all the differance in the beauty of the finneshed piece!


----------



## Hawgnutz

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Very nice jig, Don. Looks better than soem of my jigs….LOL As long as they get eth job done, who is gonna look at em, anyways!

Gonna have to make me one, too.

God Bless,
Hawg


----------



## Argyllshire

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Don, what type of blade do you use for cutting splines slots? I use a standard ATB saw blade which means the bottom of the kerf is not flat.I then use the edge of a file to clean them up. Tedious and not consistant results. I am thinking about getting a flat top grind ripping blade which will make a perfectly flat bottomed kerf.Whats your thoughts.Thanks in advance.


----------



## CharlieM1958

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


So many jigs…..so little time.


----------



## CharlieM1958

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


BTW, this may be (read: probably is) a dumb question, but I noticed the spline cuts don't seem to be perpendicular to the box side. Is this an appearance choice, or is that part of what adds extra strength to the joint?


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Charlie, there are no dumb questions, only dumb answers. I hope this answer doesn't sound too dumb.

It's simply a design choice. I like the look, but my wife doesn't. I can only hope that my client does.


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


*Quote Andy*: "Don, what type of blade do you use for cutting splines slots?"

Andy, I have the same problem. I use a very narrow and sharp chisel to flatten out the bottom of the slot.










I, too, find this less than fully satisfactory. I plan to purchase a cheap saw blade and have it ground flat for this purpose. It will only get occasional use, so I don't think that I should be necessary to spend good money for the blade.


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## Krisztian

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Very nice jig,Don.I need to make one,just like yours.


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## TheKiltedWoodworker

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


If you can get to a home depot, the Ridgid 50 tooth combination blade sells for $29 and makes flat bottom cuts.

Popular Woodworking magazine listed it as one of the best buys for a saw blade earlier this year. It came in just under the really expensive WWII and Freud blades, but at a fraction of the cost.


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Ethan, thanks for the heads up. Out of the question for me, though. I live in OZ. LOL


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## shopmania

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Don, can you use the same jig and have straight and angle grooves (like the ones you show) in it? That way you could make both types of joints with the same jig, and just move your box back and forth depending on which slots you were using? I've never done it, but it seems like it wold work, especially if your jig is wider. I'm planning o n making a jig like this soon.


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## a1Jim

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Looks good kinda like my jigs made from what ever is around. good job


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## bigike

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


i have a delta blade i got off ebay for like $27 with shipping and i read in a finewoodworking mag this blade is good for spline joinery in miters. someone here on LJ gave the heads up on the sale i think it's still going but anyway i have two of these now cuz of the way the splines come out. it doesn't give total flat bottom cuts but the little point it leaves doesn't show up after glueing the splines. u can also use the same blade for cross and rip cuts. Delta 35-7657 10" x 40T Gen Purpose Carbide Saw Blade, cripedistributing. this is the blade i use and that's the people who sel it for the $27 but if u look u can get it stores that put it out as a bid auction and u might be able to get it for cheaper, the second blade i got i paid $20 with shipping $14.99 with out.


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Tim & Jim, I do use this jig for both angled and straight cuts. It's just a matter of tilting the blade. The width of the slot in the jig itself is of little consequence as long as the piece being cut is wider than the slot so that it sits squarely into the bottom of the jig.

When I adding a spline to a picture frame which is often a fairly narrow piece of wood, I use a clamp to hold it firmly to the side of the jig. It works exceptionally well.


----------



## gridlockd

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


I'm new to LJs, and was looking around for an easy way to do splines for my first attempt at a box. Man this was it! hope you don't mind me ripping off your idea, but it worked like a champ! many thanks!


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## JoeLyddon

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Hey gridlockd…. *Go for it! *

That's what this is all about!

We share…. we share… we share… you can share!!


----------



## mpinjp

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


Hi Don,

Thanks for the post.
Have you ever tried cutting the splines with this jig on a router table?

Thanks,
MP


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *Spline Jig*
> 
> In my opinion, one of the most difficult joints to make is a miter joint. Although they are very attractive, they have almost no inherent strength, and require a high degree of accuracy to get all four corners of a box or frame to meet without gaps. To ensure that they remain closed, I use a spline of some design to strengthen the joint.
> 
> A number requested additional information on the Miter Spline Jig I use when making boxes. I can't take credit for the design of this jig, but for the life of me, I can't remember where I got the idea; perhaps a magazine or maybe a woodworking buddy.
> 
> It's very simple in concept; a carrier that allows me to pass the mitered corner of a box or box lid over the table saw blade at 45 degrees. I think the close-up pictures speak for themselves. The jig is crudely made, but the right-angle is dead accurate. I've been using this for about four years. Perhaps someday I will make one that looks like it belongs in Shop Notes; NOT. *LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have just cut two spline slots in the four corners of the previously glued up box body. The blade is tilted to ten degrees and the box was flipped so that the slots angled in opposite directions. The splines will be cut from American Maple and will be one saw curf wide. I will also use American Maple to make the trays that will fit into the box - but that's a few blogs away yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close-up of the spline slots.


No, but thanks for the suggestion. There is no reason why it wouldn't work.


----------



## Don

*Lid and Trays*

This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.

I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.

Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.

David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.










Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)

Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.










The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.



















The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)










I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.

Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.



















Add another 12 hours of shop time.

I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


----------



## Karson

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


I just like your small wooden boxes.

Nice job Don.


----------



## Treefarmer

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


Very nice Don. I'm planning on making my wife and daughters jewelry boxes for Christmas. These will be my first small wooden boxes so I'll be following closely.


----------



## mot

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


Just great, Don! Small boxes are something I really want to get into making. I just can't seem to get into the shop to do it. When I do get in there, I get side tracked by other things. Great box and great tutorial….CSS CSS CSS


----------



## Obi

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


Stunning as usual.


----------



## PanamaJack

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


Yes, another wonderful job Don!


----------



## LeeJ

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


Wow Don;

You are going to end up forcing me to build a small wooden box!

Lee


----------



## Hawgnutz

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


WOW! I, too, love small wooden boxes. I am just begginning and love your technique! The joint splines are very nicely done. Do you use a Japanese saw or a trim router bit to trim them?

God Bless,
Hawg


----------



## Radish

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


Absolutely beautiful. You are "The Don" of small boxes. Got to get into that veneering!


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


Quote Hawg: "Do you use a Japanese saw or a trim router bit to trim them?"

First I cut a strip of wood to the thickness of the saw curf; 3mm. I then insert the strip into the spline slot and trace the outside of the box onto the strip with a knife. I then cut the splines just outside the line with a bandsaw. I apply glue to the spline and press into position. This leave a minute bit of wood protruding from the slot, usually .5mm. I have a Rotex 150 ROS from Festool, a marvelous tool. After the glue has dried, I use this to sand the splines flush.


----------



## MsDebbieP

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


gorgeous box!!!

maybe I'll just have to pop over to your shop one day for a hands-on tutorial


----------



## TomFran

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


Don,

That is a beautiful box. The design and craftsmanship are excellent.

Thanks for sharing your "secrets" with us.


----------



## DocK16

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


BEAUTIFUL BOX! I appreciate all the technique tips you have shared. This love of little wooden boxes might be contageous. I do have one question; The 10 degree splines cut at the corners appear pretty deep, do you have to trim the splines on the inside of the box also?


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


Dock, no, I carefully measured from outside corner to inside corner before cutting the slots for the splines. I reduced the depth by 1.5mm to avoid cutting through the inside of the box walls. It's surprising how long that makes the splines, but if you place a set square across the top of a mitered corner, you will see that it runs equal to twice the depth of the the box wall thickness on each side of the corner.

For example, look at the lid spline, imagine a line drawn fro one corner of the spline to the other and you will see that despite the large size of this spline, it is well short of coming out the other side.


----------



## happy_budah

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


wow, as previously stated this is why i joined up! you are amazing! thanks for the step by step


----------



## rikkor

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


I am glad this came out of the archives so I have a chance to see it. Very n ice Don. I like small wooden boxes.


----------



## SteveKnnn

Don said:


> *Lid and Trays*
> 
> This past week has been less productive than I would have liked. I've been struggling with a flue, thus operating at less than full capacity.
> 
> I worked in the shop last Wednesday, and took some pictures showing the installation of the splines in the spline slots shown in my previous episode of Making a Small Wooden Box. Unfortunately, my photo card was corrupted, so I lost all of those pictures.
> 
> Today, I will show you the continuation of making the lid and a start on one of the trays.
> 
> David has done a great job of showing veneering, so I don't plan to go into any details on that here. This picture shows my lid panel 'sandwich' being glued up in my manual vacuum press. If you look very closely, you will see two cauls that make up the 'bread' of the sandwich, in between which is a layer of veneer, 3mm MDF and another layer of veneer. I left the sandwich in the press overnight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the tray components. I plan to install fixed dividers in the bottom layer of the box interior. The dividers will serve as the shelf to hold two smaller trays in the top layer. I've chosen American Maple with a slight 'bird's eye' affect. The trays will be lined with velvet and one or two compartments will feature ring holders. (Pictures of these in a few more episodes.)
> 
> Below are the tray-sides cut ready for additional milling. The saw blade has left some burns, but these will be removed during sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next two close-ups show one of the ways I use the Grrr-Ripper. I commented in Dick's blog about this tool that I find invaluable for milling small box pieces. The first picture shows the tray side being passed by a round-over bit on my router table and the second shows me cutting a rebate for the tray bottom on the tablesaw. I can't think of a safer way to do this. You might note that the piece is 'trapped' between the fence of the router table and the bottom 'stabilizer plate' of the Gripper. It can't go anywhere. Also, the side of the gripper is registered against the Router Table Fence, not the work-piece. This prevents 'snipe' from occurring which is the bane of milling small pieces on the Router Table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The picture below shows the veneered panel inserted into the lid frame and the tray being glued up. (Please excuse the focus.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to pre-finish my boxes with Pure Tung Oil as I progress. I find this much easier than trying to reach into awkward corners and contending with a flapping hinged lid. I need to take care that I don't apply any oil to surfaces that will be glued.
> 
> Below are two more pictures of the box. Hinges will not be applied until the last stage of making this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add another 12 hours of shop time.
> 
> I know this is a fairly slow pace, but remember, each step is only performed once or a few times. This is not production run stuff, so one has to carefully think through each step, measure twice and cut once. The old adage, 'haste makes waste' is very applicable to woodworking, and sometimes a mistake means starting all over because of stock limitations, etc. For example, I have no more of the primary wood used in the box. Mess up now, and it would force me to start all over with a different wood.


I found this blog through google today (6/2/2013) and am loving it. I gave read a couple of books on small boxes. This article might finally me to get on with it!

Thanks, Don


----------



## Don

*It's the Small Details that Matter*

After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.

Today I worked on the small details of the trays.

The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.

The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.

These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.

The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.










This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.










Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.


















This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.










Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.










There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


----------



## Jojo

Don said:


> *It's the Small Details that Matter*
> 
> After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.
> 
> Today I worked on the small details of the trays.
> 
> The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.
> 
> The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.
> 
> These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.
> 
> The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


Did I ever say that: "I just love your small boxes", *Don*?


----------



## Kaleo

Don said:


> *It's the Small Details that Matter*
> 
> After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.
> 
> Today I worked on the small details of the trays.
> 
> The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.
> 
> The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.
> 
> These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.
> 
> The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


Nice job Don- I really like the step by step pictures. Where did you get the maple vveneer over here? Keep them coming Don.


----------



## cajunpen

Don said:


> *It's the Small Details that Matter*
> 
> After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.
> 
> Today I worked on the small details of the trays.
> 
> The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.
> 
> The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.
> 
> These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.
> 
> The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


Don, beautiful box. How will you suspend the tray inside the box? Will it simply rest on the bottom or will it "float" somewhere in the box? If floating, how will you accomplish this - by inserting a track on the ends, or perhaps having one of your splined miters go all the way through to the inside of the box? Just curious and trying to get some ideas from the master. I love small wooden boxes also - just can't make them as well as you can.


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *It's the Small Details that Matter*
> 
> After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.
> 
> Today I worked on the small details of the trays.
> 
> The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.
> 
> The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.
> 
> These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.
> 
> The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


*Quote Kaleo:* "Where did you get the maple veneer over here?" (Australia)

Kaleo, I purchased some American Maple from Matthews Timber in Vermont in the form of 25mm rough-cut timber and milled it down to 19mm (3/4"). I then sliced a 3mm sheet of veneer on my band-saw.

*Quote cajunpen:* "How will you suspend the tray inside the box?"

Bill, your question will be answered tomorrow.


----------



## LeeJ

Don said:


> *It's the Small Details that Matter*
> 
> After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.
> 
> Today I worked on the small details of the trays.
> 
> The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.
> 
> The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.
> 
> These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.
> 
> The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


Hi Don;

Great photo's. Are you cheating?

I mean I counted two hands in the picture, and I'm guessing you needed two hands for the camera.

Just how many hands do you have?

Beautiful work, and I like the fact you manage to take a small topic, (small wooden boxes), and come up with so many variables. Was this choice in creating your boxes due to shop size?

I rarely ever, other than my demilune tables make the same thing twice, so I never truly master a topic.

You are truly a master!

Lee


----------



## Tangle

Don said:


> *It's the Small Details that Matter*
> 
> After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.
> 
> Today I worked on the small details of the trays.
> 
> The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.
> 
> The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.
> 
> These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.
> 
> The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


Thanks, Don. I'm getting an education here for free.


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *It's the Small Details that Matter*
> 
> After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.
> 
> Today I worked on the small details of the trays.
> 
> The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.
> 
> The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.
> 
> These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.
> 
> The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


Lee, you have no idea how encouraging I find your comments considering your high standard of work. I'm just an recreational woodworker. (Definition of a recreational woodworker - one who doesn't show how many pieces he messes up before he gets it right.)

The tripod is always my friend when taking pictures - this old man could hold a camera steady to save his life. *LOL*

Yes, Lee you've got it correct - my shop is simply too small to make anything large. My largest project to date was a real pain to make; all of the assembly work had to be done outside.


----------



## PanamaJack

Don said:


> *It's the Small Details that Matter*
> 
> After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.
> 
> Today I worked on the small details of the trays.
> 
> The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.
> 
> The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.
> 
> These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.
> 
> The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


Another outstanding pictorial Don. Thanks so much for your help in woodworking.


----------



## Karson

Don said:


> *It's the Small Details that Matter*
> 
> After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.
> 
> Today I worked on the small details of the trays.
> 
> The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.
> 
> The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.
> 
> These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.
> 
> The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


Don: Did you pick up your wood when you were in Canada or did you have it shipped to Aussy Ville.

Great tour through the box making. The Bessy clamp trick for making the curve are neet.


----------



## Artist

Don said:


> *It's the Small Details that Matter*
> 
> After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.
> 
> Today I worked on the small details of the trays.
> 
> The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.
> 
> The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.
> 
> These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.
> 
> The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


I love this can't wait to see the rest of what you are going to do with it.

Diane


----------



## mot

Don said:


> *It's the Small Details that Matter*
> 
> After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.
> 
> Today I worked on the small details of the trays.
> 
> The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.
> 
> The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.
> 
> These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.
> 
> The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


You're not blogging fast enough, Don! Not fast enough, I say!


----------



## jockmike2

Don said:


> *It's the Small Details that Matter*
> 
> After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.
> 
> Today I worked on the small details of the trays.
> 
> The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.
> 
> The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.
> 
> These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.
> 
> The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


DON, you are a master, I just love your small wooden boxes. You do make it look easy, and I know it is'nt. Why are we all so damn critical of you anyway, is it because you criticize our work? mike


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *It's the Small Details that Matter*
> 
> After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.
> 
> Today I worked on the small details of the trays.
> 
> The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.
> 
> The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.
> 
> These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.
> 
> The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


*Quote jockmike2:* "Why are we all so ,,, critical of you anyway, is it because you criticize our work?"

Sorry, my friend, I don't understand this line.


----------



## DanYo

Don said:


> *It's the Small Details that Matter*
> 
> After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.
> 
> Today I worked on the small details of the trays.
> 
> The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.
> 
> The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.
> 
> These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.
> 
> The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


Great topic. 
Only stumbled on to it today. 
Clamp and strip of wood to make the arch is a good trick never noticed before. Afraid I'll have to borrow that one. 
Been using a strip of wood and some picture wire …... bow-style, but like your method better.


----------



## DocK16

Don said:


> *It's the Small Details that Matter*
> 
> After my detour to make this box, I'm back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series.
> 
> Today I worked on the small details of the trays.
> 
> The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it's the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance.
> 
> The series of pictures below show the attention I pay to the trays.
> 
> These trays are made up of nine pieces; 4 sides, three dividers and a two part laminated bottom.
> 
> The bottom is a Maple veneer I cut on my band-saw. It is laminated to 3mm MDF for stability. The Maple shows on the bottom of the tray. The MDF will take a laminated pad which I will show in another episode of this series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the bottom of the tray showing the Maple veneer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I am setting up to scribe an arc for the handles. I use my Bessey Clamps and a thin strip of wood to form the arc which I copy directly to the wood and then cut on my band-saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This picture shows the tray components after cutting the arc, rounding over the top edges and cutting a half-lap joint using my dado blades for a precise fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the assembled tray with the dividers dry fitted. It's probably too hard to pick it, but I have made an allowance for the thickness of the padded lining that will be installed in the bottom of the tray. When that is done, the dividers will match the sides of the tray perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two of these trays. The lower dividers and rail supports for the tray will be made next.


Have enjoyed this whole series, I like the neat trick with getting the arc with the strip and the clamp. You're just full of neat little tips. Keep'em coming.


----------



## Don

*More Detail*

In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.

Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.










Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.










In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)










Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.










In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


----------



## Jojo

Don said:


> *More Detail*
> 
> In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.
> 
> Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


*Don*, it's official: you are the Master Of The Box-Making. Should we call you *LumberBox*?


----------



## MsDebbieP

Don said:


> *More Detail*
> 
> In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.
> 
> Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


this is wonderful.
WOW.. all those divider "slots". Very complicated. but again, you make it look easy!!


----------



## douginaz

Don said:


> *More Detail*
> 
> In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.
> 
> Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


Hi Don, Amazing work. I both admire and envy your work. Small pieces like the dividers drive me crazy. I have to know how you cut the slots. Tablesaw and dado cutter? Router?

Doug in AZ. 
I just love Don's little boxes.


----------



## Tangle

Don said:


> *More Detail*
> 
> In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.
> 
> Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


AS usual, Don, I am impressed, intrigued and educated. Thanks for the education. That's why I'm here; to learn from the masters.


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *More Detail*
> 
> In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.
> 
> Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


*Quote douginaz:* "I have to know how you cut the slots. Tablesaw and dado cutter? Router?"

Doug, I use a dado blade. If you look closely at the pictures, you can see the blades just below the dado slot. I like to use the dado blade, because the width of the blades can be adjusted to the exact size required.


----------



## TomFran

Don said:


> *More Detail*
> 
> In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.
> 
> Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


Don, You are good at this! This is a great education for us in box making.

Thanks for sharing all your secrets with us. Now we'll all be able to make these (not) ;^D


----------



## mot

Don said:


> *More Detail*
> 
> In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.
> 
> Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


BoxJock! Thanks, Don!


----------



## Karson

Don said:


> *More Detail*
> 
> In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.
> 
> Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


Don the BoxJock on LumberJock,

Great series Don.

Nice Box. Can you give some dimensions on the dividers and the compartments


----------



## gbvinc

Don said:


> *More Detail*
> 
> In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.
> 
> Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


Just read the whole series. (Hard to catch up on all the good stuff when you are new to lumberjocks!) Wonderfull information, keep them coming!


----------



## Brad_Nailor

Don said:


> *More Detail*
> 
> In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.
> 
> Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


Awesome! That box looks really nice. I love little compartments. Thanks for showing us how it's done! You should offically be dubbed "The Box Jock"


----------



## Bwillie

Don said:


> *More Detail*
> 
> In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.
> 
> Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


Don. this is really turning out great! I am literally dieing to get back on some boxes. The wife is about to kill me since I pushed aside her J-Chest to finish other projects.

Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compund and error, and before I know it, I'm all of whack.

These look good and I like the curve added on the top ones.

Your friend,


----------



## dcutter

Don said:


> *More Detail*
> 
> In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.
> 
> Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


Don - how do you cut your half lap joints for the dividers? i find that on small pieces with a power tool i get tear out but with hand tools i cant get the cuts perfect. Your insight would be much appreciated. Thanks! David


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *More Detail*
> 
> In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.
> 
> Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


I use a Irwin Marathon Trim/Finish Saw Blade, 12" x 72T saw blade. Make sure your blade is clean and recently sharpened. I can't recall the species of timber used for these dividers, either Beach or Maple. If your blade is clean and sharp you shouldn't experience tear-out.


----------



## Dusty56

Don said:


> *More Detail*
> 
> In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.
> 
> Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


Hi Don , for some reason , there aren't any pictures showing on this page at this time : (


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## fRANKIEB21

Don said:


> *More Detail*
> 
> In the last installment, I showed some of the detail work involved in making the trays for my Jewelry Box.
> 
> Here I continue with the dividers that will create the lower level compartments. There are twelve components to the lower dividers. They are tedious to make requiring patience and care to keep everything square. My intention is to eventually glue this grid-work up and insert as one piece. The reason for this that the bottom of the tray will be lined with fabric. Therefore, it's imperative that the dividers can be easily removed so the fabric liner can be cleaned or replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the dividers are dry assembled and checked for squareness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this picture I've inserted them into the box (still not glued) to check for fit. In the previous episode in this group, Cajunpen Bill asked how I intended to suspend the upper shelf trays. You can see from this picture that the front and rear dividers are taller that the rest of the dividers. These serve as rails for the trays to ride on. The long compartment at the front of the box (and barely visible) is for necklaces. The other slightly larger compartment will be where the ring rolls are installed. (That detail in another episode.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here you can see the trays and lower components in place. The handles of the tray are curved and extend into the cavity created by the lid panel, otherwise, the lid would not close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture above, you can see where I've contoured the front of the box to make it easy to grasp the lid.


It's now several years later and the pic's still don't appear


----------



## Don

*Confessions of a Box Maker*

*Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."

When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.

However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.

Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.

Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.










I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.

To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.

Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.









The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.









Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


----------



## Tikka

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


I did not think it would be so difficult to make a divider, but I guess when you are looking at 0.025mm (1 thou) accuracy, I do not think I can measure less tha 0.01mm on my vernier. you certainly are a perfectionist.

By the way love the work on your web sites - Keep it up


----------



## mot

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


Anything worth doing is worth doing right, eh Bob? This is one of the reasons I haven't tackled the small box a whole lot. My desire for detail exceeds my skill at attaining it. Nice blog entry!


----------



## LeeJ

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


Don;

With guy's like you running around loose, working to that kind of tolerence. I might have to go back to the plumbing business, where they only have two rules.

Nice work and photo's!

Lee


----------



## MsDebbieP

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


well done!! Great determination.

Tom, I love that quote - here is the second part: anything that is worth doing, it is worth doing wrong. (For those people who don't try because they know they won't get it right.


----------



## Tangle

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


Don,
That's pretty tight tolerances. I guess that's why you're the "Box Master". Good blog by the way. We are learning a lot.
Lee,
You forgot rule #3 in plumbing; payday's on Friday.


----------



## snowdog

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


"My desire for detail exceeds my skill at attaining it" Mott - that is a keeper

I know what you mean Don, most of my problem solving (at least the problems that I can not solve off the top of my head ) is done in bed before sleep. There is a lot of science to back that idea up but I wont drone on with the details since it has to do with rats and mazes <laugh>.


----------



## Obi

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


First of all, if it was easy, anybody could do it.
Secondly, I make all the mistakes I possibly can on the first one so I can hopefully not make them anymore.

When I first started making these magazine tables, the original was a wreck. ( I recently sold it for $50.00 to someone who wanted one, but didn't want to pay the full price.) And I learned that by sanding the rough spots out of the legs I clamped the four legs together. I used the bench mounted belt/disc sander and found a new mistake. A little out of level and the legs got smaller and ended up looking bow-legged. Since I found out by individually sanding them to the point of "Fine Furniture", they were niether bow-legged nor perfectly the same but the differences were so minute they couldn't be seen. And when the craftsman can't see the differences, then chances are niether can anyone else.


----------



## gbvinc

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


Nice series! I am learning a bunch. Keep them coming.


----------



## Chip

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


Don, I'm in the process of finishing up the carcasses of a couple of new boxes and begining the insides. I was wondering what your thoughts were on the thickness of the wood you use for the compartments. I was thinking of making them a bit thin and more refined but notice you keep yours fairly thick. Is this because experience has taught you they will hold up better of just a personal preference? I can understand it on the trays but was just curious about the permanently set components.

Thanks for any feedback you may have and, as always, your work is terrific.


----------



## cajunpen

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


Thanks Don for sharing your wisdom. I suspect that I'm not the only woodworker here that has improved their craft because of your work and wisdom.


----------



## Bwillie

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


Ah Don…from eyes so far away,

not the smallest of details go unoticed.

Yet to the Masters hands and eye to detail

my friend from down under, has had a good day!

This is a great and inspiring work at the bench that we all can learn from. I love seeing how you progress through the steps, and your thoughts on how to take each one. I promised not step through showing my wifes J-Chest, but I'm almost finished and will post the pictures when done. Keep the chin up, and next time you lay down to sleep…just sleep, you work too hard and are tiring me out .

Your friend


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


Chip, you are correct, the dividers for this box are minutely over 1/4" thick. They do look a little on the heavy side, and perhaps I should have gone with something closer to 1/8" stock. I settled on this size because that is the narrowest dado cut I can get from my dado set using both outside blades with no chippers in between them. Remember, in a half lap joint, it's this cut that determines the stock thickness.

My other choice would be a single blade curf cut but that just seemed too thin to me. I could also have cut the dados for the half lap joints on my router table, but again, the smallest router bit I have is a 1/4" router.

Also, the design of the lower dividers is such that the front and back rail support the upper trays. You will see that these two components of the lower dividers are higher than the others. To have made these narrower than 1/4" would provide very little surface on which the trays would sit, although I suppose I could have left these two parts at 1/4" and the rest at 1/8".

Just thinking out loud here, but it gives you an insight into how I approached this project.


----------



## Bwillie

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


Master's hands (Don's)


----------



## Chip

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


That makes very good sense to me Don. Appreciate the reply.


----------



## itsmic

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


Thanks for sharing your work with us all, I am new to the site, and have immediate respect and admiration for all I see, and the woodworkers doing the projects. Great job explaining your work, I will keep all of this info in mind when I make my first jewelry box, I still need to gain more experience and info for doing the job the right way, all the help I have gained from all the great people on this site is truly an inspiration, thanks


----------



## a1Jim

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


Pretty involved for a small project.


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


Anything worth doing is worth doing well.


----------



## bigike

Don said:


> *Confessions of a Box Maker*
> 
> *Quote Bwillie:* "Looking at these dividers reminds me that I always struggle here to get the dimensions spot on. Especially since I use felt on the ends that touch the sides of the box, I have to account for those. Usually on every box on some portion of the dividers I compound an error, and before I know it, I'm all out of whack."
> 
> When I read this comment in my last episode in this series, it caused me pause. What Bill was describing was exactly my experience; small errors compounding each other until the divider grid was nowhere near perfect. I don't know if Bill could observe these errors or just being honest about his own experience.
> 
> However, as I hold him in high esteem as a box maker, I decided to re-make my divider grid. And to be honest about this second attempt, it was no more successful. There it was again, not quite perfect, joints that didn't quite fit, and segments that were out of square. Now I'm not talking about large errors, in fact they were so small, I couldn't photograph them for this blog - when I tried, they didn't show.
> 
> Some of my best wood working is done in bed. I normally fall asleep at night thinking about my current project. Often I rehearse in my mind the steps I need to take next in a project. That's when it occurred to me. It I cut all of the half-lap dadoes at the same time with each like piece ganged up against the next, make one pass over the dado blade, move to the next cut, (ie. notch), then each would have to line up with the next. So that's exactly what I did and it worked.
> 
> Below I have lined up all of the component parts for the lower dividers to test for fit and accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still found it easy to make a mistake during assembly, because, although each piece in theory was the same end for end, I found in practice this wasn't quite the case. A discrepancy of .025mm is enough to throw things out and that is the kind of mismatch I'm talking about when you flip a piece end for end - not much, but enough to spoil a good fit.
> 
> To avoid this, I drew arrows and made notes on the bottom of each piece. I needed to be certain that the advantage gained by cutting all of the dadoes together wasn't lost by inadvertently swapping one piece end for end.
> 
> Close-up showing markings to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fit is so exact and snug, I only glued up the perimeter pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the third and final attempt. If I do say so myself, it's a perfect fit, and absolutely square at all intersections of the dividers.


i hear ya don i try to fix alot of stuff in my projects that people can't see too. sometimes i get it right but alot of times i 'm just like forget it no one can see it anyway or even if i sold it no ones gonna take a tape mesurer to it. I like the coment u posted above.


----------



## Don

*The Fiddly Bits*

When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.

In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)

Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.

The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.

Now for the fiddly details.

This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.










I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.



















The finished padded insert.










This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).










The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.










Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.

[I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.

I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.

Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.

You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.



















This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.










And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)










Almost finished.


----------



## Bwillie

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


Don, this is a very pretty box. I think I missed who it was for, but it sure is special and I know they'll be overjoyed to receive it. I like the scallop in the front to allow the thumb to help open the box.

Your right about the warping. It's probably better to balance the wood by using the same veneer on both sides. I even thought once that I would use a lesser grade on a side that would get covered, but then thought against it since I didn't want to chance the warping.

Great Job!


----------



## Jojo

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


Absolutely gorgeous *Don*. As always when it's you the maker of those small boxes, I should add. I love the contrasting wood colors and the final touch that the suede provides.


----------



## snowdog

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


Thanks for the details, really nice. I also like the scissor, handy to have a can opener on the back <smile>. I can only imagine how many hours something this nice would take. You see a jewelry box , I see a humidor and cigar box


----------



## douginaz

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


Don, As has been said many times, this box is just beautiful. I truly appreciate the patience and attention to detail that it takes to produce such wonderful boxes. When are you going to write a book? I know its been done several times but I believe you could put perspective into to the writing that others have failed to do. I look forward to each and every "issue" you give us. Thanks for being a Lumberjock!

Later,

Doug in AZ. 
p.s. down to the double digits, on 98 deg. F. yesterday.


----------



## decoustudio

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


great blog Don, as always. You continue to be a great contributor to this community, thanks for being there for us all.


----------



## Tangle

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


Don,
Another great blog with lots of instruction. When I get around to making another box it will be a lot better for your help. Thanks.
Tom


----------



## mot

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


Great, Don. Just great! I eyeballed some maple and walnut last night that would be perfect for a little box. Then I saw how messy my shop is and went to bed. A very impressive series and as always, impressive outcome.


----------



## Obi

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


Calling this box great is like calling a Fine Painting a nice picture. It's like callin a Rolls Royce an average car. Like calling the Grand Canyon a ditch. This, my friend, is a work of art. Absolutely beautiful. Between the woods used and the joinery, one could just stare at the box for the box itself.

And watching the grass grow is how one learns patience.


----------



## David

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


Don -

WOW! What a beautiful jewelry box! Your passion for boxes is evident. Thank you for the wonderful details in your blog - this will feed the thoughts of fellow jocks that will make a box project in the future. our work is impecable!


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


Thanks for the very generous and supportive comments everyone. It's a little embarrassing to be praised for something I do that I enjoy so much.

*Quote Snowdog: * "You see a jewelry box , I see a humidor and cigar box."

When I made this box, I kept in mind that future owners of this box might want to use it for a purpose other than a jewelry box. The dividers are easily removed. The padded liner is not glued in place, and the ring-role and the retainer under it is simply force-fit into the cavity. Remove all these and you have a box that can be used for any other purpose.


----------



## LeeJ

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


Don;

Your work is to be regarded as that of a MASTER, as you are a master, my friend!

From design to finish, all details are superbly executed.

I too, have trouble keeping patient at the end of a project. That for me is where I know everything is going to work out fine, (engineering wise), and I know the the final product will be beautiful, as I can see it as though it were finished.

At that point staying focused is tough. It's what seperates the men from the men. LOL

Great job, Master Don!

Lee


----------



## TomFran

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


Beautiful work, Don. A lot of work goes into one of these as you have shown.


----------



## Karson

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


Don:

Great job. Beautiful Box. You are to be commended on the details that you've presented and given to us.


----------



## Treefarmer

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


Fantastic…..I better get the wife's jewelry box started. Thanks for the inspiration!


----------



## Argyllshire

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


Don,Thanks for taking the time to share your construction details.Thats alot of work in its self.
I really like your choice of woods and accents,great contrasts without being garish.This is a very beautiful piece of craftsmanship,your attention to detail is above par.I salute you mate!


----------



## gizmodyne

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


Beautiful Don! Love the curves on the tiny inner box handle.


----------



## bigike

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


great box.


----------



## a1Jim

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


wow did that turn out great, beautiful box.


----------



## Dusty56

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


This is a wonderful blog , Don . : ) 
Thank you for taking all of the extra time to produce it along with making your box !!


----------



## dustyal

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
> 
> Now for the fiddly details.
> 
> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spray a coat of adhesive to the backing board and press the material against the sticky surface which holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished padded insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
> 
> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
> 
> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
> 
> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
> 
> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost finished.


I am reviewing your blog as I am working on a box… I am keeping it fairly simple, but of similar design and parts. I was wondering how you cut out the finger slot in the front of the box side? I have done Andy's palm box and used a drum sander with the box angled. I was wondering if you did it that way, or if you used a router and what type of bit?

I really appreciated the time you put into writing your blog… very well done. It has been very helpful to me as a novice woodworker.


----------



## Don

Don said:


> *The Fiddly Bits*
> 
> When I get to this stage of a project, I have to work hard at not becoming impatient and rushing the final details. If one is not very careful, it's here where everything can go pear-shaped.
> 
> In this episode, I have finished the wood with a three coat shellac base and a light sanding with very fine wet & dry between each coat, and then four coats of sprayed clear lacquer, again rubbing out each coat including the final coat. (I should also mention that I had previously pre-finished the body and lid of the box using burnishing oil and a ROS as per Rob's instructions.)
> 
> Even though the instructions with the lacquer state that I should wait 20 minutes between each coat, I like to wait more like three hours in a 72 degree room. I find it gives each coat more time to cure and makes the rubbing out process more effective. If you do this too soon, it's possible to cut through the hard surface skin and dig into the softer uncured finish making a real mess. I didn't take any pictures of applying the finish, I thought it would be like watching grass grow.
> 
> The pictures here show the box with the final coat of spray before rubbing out and applying a coat of traditional wax polish. When I post this in my projects page, you will see the effect of applying the wax.
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> Now for the fiddly details.
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> This picture shows how I lay out the material for a padded interior insert which will sit under the lower dividers. I'm using a faux suede with a thin layer of padding mounted to a cardboard backing. The padding gives the suede a plush feel. The backing board is cut 1mm shorter than the inside dimensions of the base to allow for the material, yet making a snug fit.
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> The finished padded insert.
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> This shot shows the lower divider with a ring-role. The ring role is made from a piece of high density foam cut exactly to the size of the compartment. This is then slotted (cut almost all the way through with an X-acto knife. I spray this with an adhesive then stuff the suede into the slots. If you try this, remember to cut the material to more than twice the surface dimensions of the foam. The excess material is folded and stuffed into a cavity below the ring-roll. I added a retainer in the bottom of this compartment to hide the untidy look of the underside of the ring-roll (not that anyone would see it).
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> The following one shows how this is retained in place. You will also note that I have applied two felt pads to the back rail of the lower dividers to keep it snuggly in place.
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> Here's the box with the padded insert and the lower dividers in place. If you look closely, you will notice four rare earth magnets have been installed; two in the outer corners of the lid and two in the corresponding surface in the front corners of the box.
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> [I took some pictures of the hinge installation, but somehow these failed to record to my flash card, so a brief description.] The hinges are Brusso, 11/4" x 7/16" from Lee Valley. Brusso make the finest box 'jewelry' available. It makes little sense to me to spend hours on a box only to spoil it with cheap big-box hardware.
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> I used a router set-up for my Dremel. I first scribed the outline of the hinge with a sharp knife after carefully measuring the location on the box walls. The Dremel was hand held as I cut out the hinge mortise gently easing the bit up to the scribed line. The scribing reduces any chip-out. Then I cleaned out the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, I inserted the hinges into the mortise and positioned and clamped the lid in place. I then scored a nick with the tip of my knife where the hinges met the lid and repeated the above steps using the 'nicks' as a reference point.
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> Here's a hint; when you install hinges, it looks tidier to have all the screws lined up with the slots pointing in the same direction. Always drill a pilot hole. Because brass screws are relatively soft, it's all too easy to twist the head off the shaft. To prevent this happening, I pre-thread the hole using a steel screw of the same size and thread. I wax the screw which makes it easier to drive home, and lubricates the thread being cut into the wood. Then I remove the steel screw and drive in the brass screw, also with some wax applied. When lining up the screw head, use care not to turn the screw too far into the hole for the sake of alignment. You will run the risk of snapping the head off. It's better to go just tight enough and back off a quarter turn to align the slots, rather than too far and breaking the screw.
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> You will notice that the screw in the lower left is not perfectly centered. This is not easy to correct, but can be by drilling out the hole and inserting a hardwood dowel glued in place, then re-drilled. The problem with this is you are drilling into end-grain. Perhaps a better but more difficult fix is to cut a mortise and insert a piece of wood so you are drilling into face grain. Or you can do what I did; nothing.
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> This shows one of the upper trays sitting on the lower divider rails.
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> And still another with both trays in place. The second tray doesn't have the padded insert installed. You can see that I decided to cover the 3mm MDF base of the trays with more American Maple veneer to keep the forces the same on both sides of the bottom of the trays. (The trays started to warp a little and I put this down to the fact that I had originally applied the Maple veneer to only the underside surface.)
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> Almost finished.


Hi, Dustyal.

Thanks for your question. It's been a long time since I've added a comment, and I don't post any more to LumberJocks though it still holds a warm place in my heart.

The finger recess in the front of the box is produced using a Wasp Sander. I simply held the box at an angle against the revolving sanding belt at the drill end of the sander.

You can read a review about the Wasp Sander here.


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