# Keeping the lint out of wipe on poly



## TheWoodenOyster (Feb 6, 2013)

Hey everyone,

I use minwax wipe on poly quite a bit and like it for the most part. I have repeated issues with lint from the application rags getting trapped in the finish. I knock down the nibs between each coat and it works except for the lint. It really gets stuck in there. Any secret weapons to keep the lint out of the finish? I've heard pantyhose around the rag?

Thanks everyone


----------



## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

The smart-ass answer would be to use lint free cloth….easier said than done. But very well worn tee shirts are fairly lint free. A better approach (IMHO) is to not use a cloth pad. Instead, get a roll of those blue shop towels sold in the auto dept at Walmart (and pretty much everywhere else) and use them. They are lint free, and disposable, and cheap. I use one towel at a time, folding it into the pad I want. I put it in a sandwich bad between coats, and then use it again. After a set of 3 coats, it gets left out to dry and then tossed. Try it at least once and judge for yourself.


----------



## TheWoodenOyster (Feb 6, 2013)

Cool. I was thinking about the lint free microfiber cloths, but those are too pricey to use and throw away all the time. I wasn't aware that those blue shop towels were lint free. Good to know.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

You might do brush on with sponge brushes? But paper towels are cheaper.


----------



## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

Use coffee filters. They are cheap, a good, manageable size, lint free, and did I say cheap?

I use them for everything. No more wasting paper towels.


----------



## Case101 (Jun 29, 2013)

Best yet!!!
Grab a pair of you wive's old nylon stockings, put your cloth inside and tie a knot. No more lint. 
Works great!


----------



## daddywoofdawg (Feb 1, 2014)

Take a piece of masking tape,rub it over your cloth before use,picks up the loose lint.


----------



## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Borg blue shop towels.


----------



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Don't use any sort of rag or cloth, I always use 1" sponge brush with my wipe on poly, it only takes a drop of poly on the tip of the brush and it's goes a long ways. I sometimes keep a paper towel sitting aside to dab the brush on to take off the access, if you need more then one coat, put your brush in a plastic bag sealed until time for the second / third coat…

*My method*, I mix my on with 50/50 mineral spirits and minwax poly (preferred sheen ) I pop the lid off of the 1 qt can of poly and mix it with a stirring stick, then using a 1 qt empty can with lid, I use a 1 oz epoxy measuring cup with needle nose pliers making it a ladle dipping it into the poly to pour just enough of both mixtures to do that single project two the three applications into that empty can resealing between each coat, I just pour from the mineral spirits can straight into the measuring cup, I then re-stir both mixtures together in that 1 qt can then dip my foam brush into it, once I'm done, the can should be empty if I mixed it right, I then clean it out with just mineral spirits and a paper towel so it's ready for the next project add the lid back to the can with just a tad bit of Mineral spirits left in the can and put it away, no fuss and none wasted.


----------



## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

Scott's blue shop towels and about any old cloth that's been washed many times, but may favorite is golden taklon brushes. The super fine bristles leave tiny brush marks that level out to be invisible. I use a "dry brush" technique: get the poly on fairly thin, tamp the brush "dry" on a blue shop towel, and keep brushing the poly, tamping the brush as needed. With a little practice you learn how much brushing is needed to get a super smooth finish.

BTW, instead of paying more fore the wipe on poly, just buy the regular poly and thin 50%, it's the same as wipe on.


----------



## TheWoodenOyster (Feb 6, 2013)

Yeah, I know the thinning trick and do it sometimes, depending on how thrifty I feel that day. I think I'll try out the blue towels and maybe the foam brushes. Thanks for the tips guys


----------



## yank (Feb 1, 2007)

Don't use a lint cloth. Sorry I couldn't help it. JK


----------



## Magnum (Feb 5, 2010)

You might want try the everyday Kitchen Sponges that you can buy in Quantity (Cheap). NOT the very Porous ones, the smoother ones.

A little Poly goes a long way. I use a saucer or even a piece of tin foil to DIP it in.

Sponge Brushes and Me don't get along very well ….LOL.

You probably already know this, but Wipe on Poly is just Regular Poly thinned 50/50 with water or mineral spirits. It's also a lot cheaper buying the Regular Poly and thinning it yourself.


----------



## Joel_B (Aug 14, 2014)

I read in another thread that staining pads from Harbor Freight work well for this.
I might try it myself.
If I was going to mix my own wipe on poly any recommendations on which brand poly to start from?
Preferrably something I can buy at HD, Lowes or Rockler.


----------



## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

> Best yet!!!
> Grab a pair of you wive s old nylon stockings, put your cloth inside and tie a knot. No more lint.
> Works great!
> 
> - Case101


Just make sure you get her to take them off first.


----------



## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

What Case said! I'll also take a piece of polyester cloth fold it over a couple of times, then put it inside the nylon and use it like a squeege. Works great. Be sure to thin the poly down by 50% or more for a glass smooth finish
and 600 wet/dri between coats.


----------



## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

> I read in another thread that staining pads from Harbor Freight work well for this.
> I might try it myself.
> If I was going to mix my own wipe on poly any recommendations on which brand poly to start from?
> Preferrably something I can buy at HD, Lowes or Rockler.
> ...


Well, I would suggest you avoid anything that's Min-Wax, and go from there.


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

If you really want to avoid headaches with finishing, try to avoid poly and wipe-on finishes all together. Try spraying lacquer once, and I doubt you will ever use a wipe-on product again. It dries quicker, so dust nibs are less of an issue. It also builds quickly so two coats is all it takes. 
Sprayers were once costly tools, but you can now buy a gravity feed gun for a weeks worth of lattes.
If you already own a compressor the investment is minimal. 
That said, many rave about General Finishes Arm R Seal. Others like Waterlox. Wiping on a finish will take many coats to build up decent protection, but if you want to stay with a wipe on product, you might give those a try.

You will soon find a system that works for you.
Best of luck!


----------



## Joel_B (Aug 14, 2014)

> I read in another thread that staining pads from Harbor Freight work well for this.
> I might try it myself.
> If I was going to mix my own wipe on poly any recommendations on which brand poly to start from?
> Preferrably something I can buy at HD, Lowes or Rockler.
> ...


I am not sure why people are so down on Minwax, it seems to get good reviews in general.
Maybe those reviews are coming from your typical person and not serious wood workers.


----------



## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

I've wiped water based poly with a really old handkerchief, but I still prefer to spray it.


----------



## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

I always use the sponge brushes, it applys a lot better and uses less and a lot less messsy. I also prefer thinning the poly down, it gives me more control over the amount of poly and the amount I use. The blue rags work pretty good too.

Bill


----------



## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

> I am not sure why people are so down on Minwax, it seems to get good reviews in general.
> Maybe those reviews are coming from your typical person and not serious wood workers.
> 
> - Joel_B


I've had more problems, and a different variety of problems, with Min Wax than any other brand….that crosses across all their product lines. About the only thing they make that's been problem free for me is their Antique Oil Finish (wiping varnish). I've quit using anything they make altogether, and consider them the Harbor Freight of the finishing world, I also think you're correct about the reviews….I put more stock in what's said in forums like these than the revews posted on vendor's sites and such.


----------



## RogerInColorado (Jan 18, 2013)

My nibs went away when I switched from Minwax to General Finishes. When I want to do a wipe on finish, I make my own by thinning as others have said. Wiping the finish on means more coats, but each coat dries tack free much faster so less time for nibs to land.


----------



## Meema (Apr 24, 2018)

When mixing your own wipe on poly, what type of mineral spirit is best? I know they have a white mineral spirit (odorless).


----------



## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

I have bought the "lint free" rag bag at Lowes in the paint department, and have found them to be lint free. They don't cost that much. I get a lot of fuzz off those blue shop towels, maybe not technically lint, but a PIA all the same.

I used to try to finish off to the side (in an enclosed "finish area") while I was still working in the shop, and always had stuff getting into my finish. A few years ago I started stopping all of the work in the shop, would go inside and do something about getting dinner ready, come back out after 20-30 minutes, and then do my finishing, and left it to dry overnight. That has also been a huge help, those pesky floaters will mess with ya.


----------



## msinc (Jan 8, 2017)

A lot of good advice here on this subject. I honestly have not experienced the problems noted with Min-Wax poly. I build up a nice base and then spray the final coat. I am more concerned with the way it makes the wood "look" or whether or not it imparts any unwanted "tint" or off coloring. First and foremost, I want a finish that enhances or brings out the natural color of the wood. Maybe I am lucky and maybe I am seeing things, but I find Min-Wax poly {among others} to make figured wood "pop". 
The one thing I would like to add is that I always wipe the part being finished with a "tack cloth" before each application. I found that a lot of that "lint" is actually airborne dust that lands on the part prior to finishing. I also am very picky about where I apply/spray. I don't have a spray booth {yet}, but you just cannot get a decent finish on something in the same room where you do your sanding….so, most guys take it outside, to get away from all the dust. But, there can be way more airborne particulate "out and about" than many places. Just sayin', it's not always the rag you wipe it on with. Probably is, but not always.


----------



## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

*concerning the rags:*

any rags used in the prepping/finishing process that have paint, stain, solvents, 
or oils on them, should be laid out in the open to completely air dry prior to discarding them.

.

what type of mineral spirit is best? = 100% pure, with odor, if you can find it.
odorless and general paint thinner is questionable for fine finishes. (IMO).
for the general hobbyist, the name brand thinners at the Big Box Store will do just fine.
the same suggestion for turpentine and other thinners. 100% unmodified is desired.
(use the cheap stuff to clean up your brushes and hands with)

.

.


----------



## Finn (May 26, 2010)

I have good results using minwax thinned about 30% with naptha. Any slight nubs, I occasionally get, I sand off with a fine sanding sponge.


----------



## LittleShaver (Sep 14, 2016)

I'm a firm believer in old t shirts for wiping on a finish. Every so often the wife buys me new ones and the old go into my rag can in the shop.
I rarely pay much attention to the mixing ratio. Eyeballing 50/50 works fine. Recently I've been using old squirt bottles from the kitchen for small projects. Squirt some on a piece of an old t-shirt and start wiping.


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Yup - straight poly eyeball mixed 50/50 with MS works great, as do old t-shirts. Dries so fast that I rarely have any problems with dust/lint/nubs. As for which MS? Just keep away from the 'green' stuff. If it says 'shake well' before use and/or that it cleans up with water, run away fast. If it's 100% MS, it will say so on the container:










Cheers,
Brad


----------



## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Poly/Varnish mixed with about half MS does a nice job, but if you add some boiled Linseed Oil BLO, or pure Tung Oil at thirds instead of halves, you will POP your grain much better, and add a depth to your finish. On curlies the absolute best is dye, but sometimes you don't want that much color, adding the BLO then will make your grain POP really nicely.

If you've not tried the BLO in your homemade mix, give it a try when you do finish samples next time, especially if you have a grain you want to emphasize.


----------



## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

I use old handkerchiefs. Don't know that they are lint free, but they tend to be pretty high thread count and I've not had a problem. I also store them in a zip-loc bag and it will stay fresh enough over the few days needed finish a project.


----------



## anthm27 (May 12, 2015)

> Use coffee filters. They are cheap, a good, manageable size, lint free, and did I say cheap?
> 
> I use them for everything. No more wasting paper towels.
> 
> - timbertailor


I tried the coffee filter bags on the finish of my latest project, it works great. Rubber gloves on, pour the wipe on polly straight from the can onto the coffee filter bags and start wiping.
Works great.
Thanks for the tip.


----------



## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I use lambs wool, the same material used by pro floor finishers, from Lowes.








I cut it to the size I need for a project, vacuum and off the loose stuff from the cutting before I use it.
Sometimes I give it a "hair cut" to get a shorter nap, and vacuum it off before using.
Doesn't leave anything behind and, in my opinion, leaves a beautiful finish!


----------



## buckhorn_cortez (Apr 13, 2018)

"I use minwax wipe on poly quite a bit…"

If you're going to continue using wipe on fishes, then do yourself a favor and buy some cheesecloth. You're wasting time + finishing materials by not using a good application method. By some cheesecloth, and make your application pads out of that material - problem solved.


----------

