# Stickley Dining Table no. 622



## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

*History*

*History*
We had a maple kitchen table that was very nice, but not the style we wanted for our house.
After I made the mahogany coffee table, I was feeling confident to tackle something larger.

Kristin and I enrolled in a "work completion lab" at the community college.
I looked through several plans. I really wanted to make one with curved stretchers and a top that was held on by massive sliding dovetails. (I still want to make it). We decided it was beyond our skills.

So we picked a basic Stickley trestle dining table, but scaled it down for our living room. It features a massive top and through/keyed tenons.

I spent one day running to Bonhoff Lumber to buy the rought 8/4 1/4sawn oak material.

Here it is so far:
















*Challenges*

Chopping the through tenons by hand as the thickness of the legs prohibited the use of the mortiser. The chips were flyin.
Keyed tenons
Learned to resaw: Veneered quartersawn oak to two faces of each leg so that all faces are quartersawn.
Jointing huge pieces

*To come*

Sand top
Ease edges and corners of top
Sand tenon keys
#Apply Finish
Attach top

We stopped working on it because we needed to find the right finish. (Plus, see all my other excuses on prior post). I have been experimenting with a billion different stains. I also acquired ammonia (the real stuff) from a parent in my class who runs a blueprint shop. I have not had time to fume some samples. I am also not sure what type of clear finish to put over the whole thing. Shellac is out due to the sloshing beer/wine problem. Any advice? (Yes I have seent the twelve step process).

I will post some of my 50 stain samples sometime.

By the way: I have a new policy. No starting a project until a finish schedule is in place.


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## shack (Mar 30, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *History*
> 
> *History*
> We had a maple kitchen table that was very nice, but not the style we wanted for our house.
> ...


Looks Nice.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

gizmodyne said:


> *History*
> 
> *History*
> We had a maple kitchen table that was very nice, but not the style we wanted for our house.
> ...


Great design.


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## Max (Sep 13, 2006)

gizmodyne said:


> *History*
> 
> *History*
> We had a maple kitchen table that was very nice, but not the style we wanted for our house.
> ...


That is really coming together nicely… Will be looking forward to seeing the finished product. What type of finish are you planning on using? I would recommend some kind of Poly for a durable finish that will stand up….


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *History*
> 
> *History*
> We had a maple kitchen table that was very nice, but not the style we wanted for our house.
> ...


I am not sure… what to do….

I have another small table that I am working on out of the same batch of wood.

I have tried the Minway Wipe-on Poly… I am worried it will look to plastic…


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *History*
> 
> *History*
> We had a maple kitchen table that was very nice, but not the style we wanted for our house.
> ...


this is big! and very nice. 
I can't help you with finishes; it hasn't been on my experimenting list yet. But I'll be interested to see what you decide on.


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## oscorner (Aug 7, 2006)

gizmodyne said:


> *History*
> 
> *History*
> We had a maple kitchen table that was very nice, but not the style we wanted for our house.
> ...


Nothing like hand cutting through mortises in white oak! ;^)


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *History*
> 
> *History*
> We had a maple kitchen table that was very nice, but not the style we wanted for our house.
> ...


Updated.


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

*Sketchup Animations, Plans, and Erasing the Past...*

*Plans*

I geared up today to finish the table that was started three years ago. I began by reviewing all of the original plans. Starting with the book "The Furniture of Gustav Stickley" by Joseph J. Bavaro & Thomas L. Mossman.









This book is a great Stickley starter book for furniture making.

I modified the original table by making it shorter in length. My old style drawings…..









I also wanted to try a few new things in SketchUp that I had learned over at the Fine Woodworking Design Click Build Blog

Here is my rendering complete with a Sketchy Lined watermark









I also tried tying some scenes together in an animation. We will see if I can get it to post here.

http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=55430

If not here is the link

*Erasing the Past*
All of the parts have been in storage in my office for a long time. I originally sanded the base parts to 400 but they have gotten some damage, and I have discovered that I like to finish the oak at 220 so back they go.









I took a closer look at the through tenon and noticed I have some clean up to do. But I also thought, clever me, I put a dowel through the end of the tenon to prevent slitting before mortising. It is only visible from the underside. Someone must have told me to do that.









My buddy Juan came over and we muscled the table top into the shop. It is *so* heavy at 1 1/2" x 42" x 78". 








Some genius (me) had stained the entire top by using it before it was finished.
Cereal bowl stain.









Water stains and my pencil marks for sanding.









It took an entire album (Vampire Weekend) to sand the top to 80 grit. I went cross grain slowly, then with the grain, and then hand sanded lightly.
Halfway.








One side








Inspecting with light.









The flip side was not as messed up, so it only took about 2/3 of an album (Radiohead - In Rainbows).
It has the main piece of wood from Grandpa's Box
Great knots, so we will have to decide which side to use…. Hmm..








This side has a nice pattern write up the middle but the other side has better ray flecks.









*Next time..* More grits and I visit a professional finisher to see how he does it.


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## Bigbuck (May 15, 2008)

gizmodyne said:


> *Sketchup Animations, Plans, and Erasing the Past...*
> 
> *Plans*
> 
> ...


Cool, thanks for sharing. I can't wait to see it once it is assembled


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

gizmodyne said:


> *Sketchup Animations, Plans, and Erasing the Past...*
> 
> *Plans*
> 
> ...


cool. really nice animation too! thanks for the post.


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

gizmodyne said:


> *Sketchup Animations, Plans, and Erasing the Past...*
> 
> *Plans*
> 
> ...


This is a nice sturdy table, John. I made one 84" x 38" for my wife. Finished it natural. Wife is not too keen on the dark furniture.


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## moonroc (Apr 21, 2008)

gizmodyne said:


> *Sketchup Animations, Plans, and Erasing the Past...*
> 
> *Plans*
> 
> ...


Beautiful table. I think it will be around for a couple hundred years. Don't forget to sign and date it.


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## croessler (Jun 22, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *Sketchup Animations, Plans, and Erasing the Past...*
> 
> *Plans*
> 
> ...


Very nice John; Can't wait to see the finished product. I'm still trying to get a hang of SketchUp.


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## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *Sketchup Animations, Plans, and Erasing the Past...*
> 
> *Plans*
> 
> ...


Looks like you're up to completing the lost and (not so) forgotton pieces these days. I commend you for that! I'm just getting around to finishing a little table I started last summer.

That's gonna be a heck of a dining table!


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## sven (Jul 8, 2008)

gizmodyne said:


> *Sketchup Animations, Plans, and Erasing the Past...*
> 
> *Plans*
> 
> ...


Love your table.
Why did you put the dowl into the end?
"I put a dowel through the end of the tenon to prevent slitting before mortising. It is only visible from the underside. Someone must have told me to do that."

Can you elaborate?
Any one have any expiriance with Brasilian Mahogany, I got some from a friend who could not use it.
He had got it for wood flooring with toung and grove, but it warped and was unusable for flooring..
Now I want too try to make it into a table….

Sven


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *Sketchup Animations, Plans, and Erasing the Past...*
> 
> *Plans*
> 
> ...


I put the dowel in the end so that when I mortised or hammered in the loose tenon, there was extra reinforcement.


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## Kipster (Feb 15, 2008)

gizmodyne said:


> *Sketchup Animations, Plans, and Erasing the Past...*
> 
> *Plans*
> 
> ...


Beautiful table I can;t wait till it is completed. Thanks for sharing.


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

*Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*









After about one week of sanding. It took forever!

I will be attaching the top with countersunk lag screws.

















The holes are over sized to handle movement. The screws will only bite into the top.

I put the base together to test it.

















I built a large tent this time from plywood strips and extra bender board left over from the garden.

Here is a shot of the table going into the tent. 









Suited up for ammonia.









Here are the test pieces. Left to Right: After four hours with no finish, with Boiled Linseed Oil, 6 hours with BLO









It has been humid here, so I waited a few days for the air to dry out. I use a first coat of very thin shellac.
Here is a shot with one leg assembly first coated.









Wet top.








After all parts coated once.









The colors are very different in the florescent lights. Here is a shot with natural light and the flash.










Next time : a little dye and blending? More shellac, poly for the top, wax…


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## tenhoeda (Jun 27, 2008)

gizmodyne said:


> *Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*
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> 
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I love the look of the fumed finish. Just no nerve to try it (or a place to do it safely either. Looks like a nice solid piece. What are the overall dimensions?


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*
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The top is 40 inches wide by almost 7 feet long.

4 inch square legs.


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## Josh (Aug 14, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*
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Looks great.


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*
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I really like QS White oak. The rays on the legs and top are really sweet!


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## shaun (Sep 16, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*
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Sweet table Giz, it's looking good


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## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

gizmodyne said:


> *Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*
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Looking great.


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## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*
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Very sharp!


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## thetimberkid (Apr 5, 2008)

gizmodyne said:


> *Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*
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Great work!

Thanks for the post

Callum


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## bfd (Dec 23, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*
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Awesome! That is one solid and beautiful looking table. Like others have said the medulary rays of the QSWO is stunning. I love working with it. Are those legs quadralinear construction?


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## daltons (Jun 29, 2008)

gizmodyne said:


> *Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*
> 
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> ...


Looks Great! (Has anyone tried anything different to fume with, like vinegar? Your project may smell like a salad for a while but I have heard it works.) I love seeing just a hint of flake. Too much can be very distracting. I believe this was the point of fuming in the first place, soften the flake.
I like the method you used to attach the top. Gus used iron figure 8's allowing the top to move. One screw up into top the other down into the end grain of the leg.


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*
> 
> 
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BFD: The legs are veneered on two sides so the rays show. I cut 1/4" veneer.

Daltons: I did not want to use the figure 8. I was afraid I would just lift up the top one day and pull them out. I wanted to use something beefier.


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## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*
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I'll just stick to what I said before: That's gonna be a heck of a dining table!


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## Fireball (Apr 7, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*
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> 
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Giz - that's going to be an awesome table!!! I am jealous of the amount of time you have for your projects. I can barely make a few cuts in the time it takes you to build a table!

From those pictures above there didn't look to be a discernable color difference b/w 4 and 6 hrs. After your recent experiences do you have a recommended fuming time.


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*
> 
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> 
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Thanks Fireball,

I feel like this is taking forever.

The 6 hour is a bit darker.

I like about 6 hours for fuming. I have not been patient enough to go beyond that. I will try with a smaller project someday.


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## daltons (Jun 29, 2008)

gizmodyne said:


> *Finish: Fuming, Waiting, and Shellac*
> 
> 
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BFD, I totally understand the fear of figure 8's not standing up to the job but I have had 8 foot Gus directors tables with eight quarter tops held by these and they worked fine. I have also had standard multiple drawer library tables with 7/8 inch thick tops and they work in this case as well. They do seam wimpy but they really do the job. I don't think they make the original cast iron type anymore. All I have seen is stamped steel.


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

*The Inspector! Plus World's Most Boring Woodworking Video*

*Which Wax?*
I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.










Here is a shot with one base assembly (right) finished with the wax. The other is not (left)









*Booooooooooring.*
After finishing the base and the underside of the top, I turned my attention to the top of the top.

I began with two coats of de-waxed shellac (Zinser Seal-Coat)









Here you can see the raw wood vs. sealed.

Watch a really boring video of me shellacing. Witness my careful maneuvers with the shellac pad. Warning: slow action.






*Sapwood!*
There were two prominent sapwood streaks to deal with. 









When you fume with ammonia the sapwood is not affected. I ordered a different dye from Tools for Woodworking










It is relatively close to Actual Fumed oak, though it could use a little brown. I bought a couple of other colors but have not mixed them yet. Any who. Here is the sapwood with a little dye. It is not possible to totally disguise it. I just wanted to reduce the contrast. If you add too dark a dye it will bleed into the surrounding areas. One way to deal with this is to tint all of the shellac so that the entire piece has the dye's tone. I was not willing to alter the color of the entire table. I add the dye to a little shellac and then paint it on the sapwood. I carefully wipe the borders.









*Top Coast*
I used my stash of Minwax Wipe-On Poly for the top coat. It is a satin but still fairly Glossy. Also, you can't get it anymore in Los Angeles County due to VOC regulations. It is easy to apply and looks nice with added protection.









After three coats of the poly I rubbed the top with steel wood and then a cloth. Finally the Walnut wax which tones down the poly and adds more brown to the top.









*Inspector*
We have been debating the sheen of the piece. Here is the boss inspecting the table.

http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=55430

*Next time*
Project post once I get someone to help me haul it to the dining room.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *The Inspector! Plus World's Most Boring Woodworking Video*
> 
> *Which Wax?*
> I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.
> ...


Giz,

You do such great work.

I hope to be able to meet you and the inspector one day and to see your projects in person.


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## jeanmarc (Mar 23, 2008)

gizmodyne said:


> *The Inspector! Plus World's Most Boring Woodworking Video*
> 
> *Which Wax?*
> I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.
> ...


Nice job


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## FritzM (Dec 18, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *The Inspector! Plus World's Most Boring Woodworking Video*
> 
> *Which Wax?*
> I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.
> ...


you're like a shellacing robot! The precision paid off, nicely done.


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## daltons (Jun 29, 2008)

gizmodyne said:


> *The Inspector! Plus World's Most Boring Woodworking Video*
> 
> *Which Wax?*
> I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.
> ...


Great work. The careful decision and application of finishes really pay off. In restoring original finishes we NEVER use Briwax. This is really powerful stuff and I believe can be used as a stand alone finish on raw wood. It has something in it that will actually strip original shellac off. We use "American Paste Wax" and I like their product that has a touch of color in it, light oak. This keeps the wax from blushing. Good stuff.


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## David (Jan 26, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *The Inspector! Plus World's Most Boring Woodworking Video*
> 
> *Which Wax?*
> I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.
> ...


Giz -

I have been following this project with interest. Excellent work! I enjoyed the shellacing video . . . I guess woodworkers really are boring! Looks like you passed the finish inspection. What is next in your shop?

I believe the "really powerful stuff" in Briwax is toluene.

Briwax MSDS

David
The Folding Rule


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *The Inspector! Plus World's Most Boring Woodworking Video*
> 
> *Which Wax?*
> I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.
> ...


Todd: Anytime you come to California.

Daltons: Good info on Briwax. Scary!

David: Back to finish the kitchen cabinet doors and pullouts.

I will post project tomorrow after I get some better light.


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## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *The Inspector! Plus World's Most Boring Woodworking Video*
> 
> *Which Wax?*
> I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.
> ...


Nice finishing moves…


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## steveosshop (Jun 21, 2008)

gizmodyne said:


> *The Inspector! Plus World's Most Boring Woodworking Video*
> 
> *Which Wax?*
> I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.
> ...


Thats a great piece. Thanx for the videos. Glad to see the boss approved!


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *The Inspector! Plus World's Most Boring Woodworking Video*
> 
> *Which Wax?*
> I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.
> ...


Hi gizmodyne:

BRIWAX is nasty stuff. The toluene fumes are overpowering.

I blend my own finishing waxes with:

90% Bees Wax, by weight
10% Carnauba Wax, by weight
Solvent Blend (Citrus Solvent and Low-Odor Mineral Spirits)

If I want color, I add a little Aniline Tincture of the desired color.

I melt and mix the ingredients outdoors on an electric hot plate.


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## tbone (Apr 24, 2008)

gizmodyne said:


> *The Inspector! Plus World's Most Boring Woodworking Video*
> 
> *Which Wax?*
> I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.
> ...


I love your table project, and I really enjoy the step-by-step reports. However I do have a suggestion
that may help you out on your next one. 
Lose the Radiohead and put on something more contemporary-maybe Old 97's, or Reckless Kelly. I would suggest Merle, but you would have to work without a hat and with your right hand over your heart!


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *The Inspector! Plus World's Most Boring Woodworking Video*
> 
> *Which Wax?*
> I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.
> ...


Thanks tbone. Suggestion duly noted.


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## Huckleberry (Nov 7, 2007)

gizmodyne said:


> *The Inspector! Plus World's Most Boring Woodworking Video*
> 
> *Which Wax?*
> I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.
> ...


Nice table and enjoyed your videos.


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## Tomas21 (Dec 1, 2011)

gizmodyne said:


> *The Inspector! Plus World's Most Boring Woodworking Video*
> 
> *Which Wax?*
> I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.
> ...


Giz,

Were you able to find a retailer that sells the Minwax Wipe-On Poly in Oil based? I'm about to finish a mantel and am trying to locate Minwax Wipe-On Poly Stain in Oil based. All that I can find is the water based version.


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## TheSpinster (Dec 4, 2014)

gizmodyne said:


> *The Inspector! Plus World's Most Boring Woodworking Video*
> 
> *Which Wax?*
> I bought a new kind of wax by Howards based on a recommendation from a friend. It is called Walnut. I compared it to the Briwax (Dark Brown) which I have have used previously. The Briwax is much darker. The Howards smells like citrus and claims to provide u.v. protection. It does seem a little more gritty, but applies smoothly.
> ...


Hi--I am moving house and have several…many…pieces of wood furniture that have not been refinished for decades. None in too bad shape but a couple seem a little "dry". Do you think it matters if I use Briwax or Min wax (and should I do something extra for the dry-appearing ones?) I would prefer toluene free-is it just as good?

Would poly be better in the kitchen?

What would be good on the stair railing? It is shinier than wax, I think. Hard and shiny, but not overtly poly-looking. It is old, and I think the previous owner used generic spray-can polish. The finish is beautiful, though.

I appreciate any suggestions. I am reading up in order to do the "best possible" thing since I need very easy upkeep and it will likely be 20 years before I do anything major again….and as a result I am just paralized.

I am not a regular re-finisher-but when pressed to the wall have always made my end project look good. So I need advice for the lazy and inexpert, but competent when cornered.

Thank you.


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