# Harbor Freight 10" Table Saw Zero Clearance Insert



## crzy4wood (Nov 15, 2013)

Does anyone here own a Harbor Freight 10" table saw? I have one and would like to make a zero clearance insert but have found it difficult since the insert plate is thin and there seems to be no way possible to make one. I know this is not a good detailed explanation but whoever owns this type of table saw knows the details. If someone ever built one would you please share. 
Thanks


----------



## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

What is the thickness of the factory insert?


----------



## crzy4wood (Nov 15, 2013)

About a sad 1/8". Could be less


----------



## SuperCubber (Feb 23, 2012)

I think it's 3/32. I have a Skil table saw that is just about identical. I've been agonizing over the same thing. The only thing I can come up with is basically using the stock insert and creating a replaceable piece that attaches/hangs from the bottom.

Does that make any sense?


----------



## crzy4wood (Nov 15, 2013)

I thought of the same but realized that it could be a hazard since the blade might bind to the piece and cause a bad accident.


----------



## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

I had an Craftsman table saw with the same issues. I made zci's from 1/2" baltic birch ply. But I will assume any good plywood would work. First you use the original insert from your saw as a template. Trace around it onto your plywood. Rough cut at the bandsaw leaving the line. Re-attach the original insert back onto the plywood blank with double sided tape. Use a flush trim or pattern cutting bit at the router table to flush the blank to the insert. Next use a rabbeting bit in your router table and route a rabbet leaving a shoulder the thickness of the original insert. I made a handful of blanks all at the same time so I had extra and made zci's for my dado one each for 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" slots. Before you invest the time, lower the blade as far as it goes to see if you have clearance for 1/2" material. If not, then you can choose to use 3/8" or use a smaller single dado blade or a circular saw blade to make the slot. When making the slot, slide the fence up to the insert, clamp a block to the fence and down on the insert to hold it down securely. Be sure you not directly over the blade and be sure again you have clearance. Turning on the saw with the blade contacting the underneath side of the insert is not safe. Turn on the saw and ease the blade up and through the insert


----------



## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

You could make the insert from aluminum. It is soft enough that you can cut it with a carbide tipped blade. Even a few pieces of Formica counter top material laminated together would be stiff enough to stay flat


----------



## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

Aluminum sounds good like what MrRon said.

Or, if you can't locate aluminum in the correct thickness, find a hobby shop that carries RC airplane building material. Good hobby shops that deal in RC planes will sell high grade plywood in the 1/8th inch range. There are a couple of grades/weights. If you go this route, don't get the light stuff, get the heavy grade, used for bulk heads, landing gear mounts, and motor mounts Take your insert there and see if they have a thickness that will match up.


----------



## djc4990 (Jan 14, 2014)

off topic *bbc* but im from upstate and get that all the time…"im from New York", "OH! whats the city like?", "no idea im not even close"


----------



## SuperCubber (Feb 23, 2012)

I'm not sure what you mean when you say the blade may bind to the piece.

I'm pretty sure it's 13 gauge aluminum and it's damn hard to come by. I've called a few metal shops and no one wants to talk to me, because it's such a small quantity.

I'd be scared to rabbet down to 3/32 and rely on only that much material holding the insert.


----------



## crzy4wood (Nov 15, 2013)

Supercubber, I thought you meant a piece of plywood underneath the metal plate. That is what I was thinking of doing and holding the piece with metal screws. But the aluminum piece sounds like a good idea. There are some places around here that sell aluminum, maybe I can check them out. The problem with harbor freight is that getting parts for the tools that you buy from them is impossible. 
Thanks all for your suggestions


----------



## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Go t o Home Depot or Lowes and to the locks and keys department. They have door kick plates made of aluminum that are about 6"x 18". You could cut the insert from that. I don't know what thickness they are, but you could laminate 2 together with epoxy before cutting it.


----------



## bigJohninvegas (May 25, 2014)

I have the harbor freight central machinery 14 inch band saw. 
I bought it used for a $100. and the table insert was alraedy gone.
Does anyone know where to buy a replacement. I don't see any that are made for 
the harbor freight saw. With all the saws out there I bet there is one that fits, Delta or Grizzly, Jet maybe
Just not sure where to start.


----------



## PLK (Feb 11, 2014)

Why not make your own? Of every blade insert I've ever bought I always end up making my own zci's as they tend to be much better than store bought versions.

Paul


----------



## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I have an old Craftsman saw with a 3/32" insert. I like to take 1/4" MDF and laminate formica top and bottom then cut a rabbit around the perimeter to 3/32", and they work great, I've made lots of them over the years, cheap and easy.


----------



## Knothead62 (Apr 17, 2010)

bigJohn, you will probably have to check with HF unless you can match it up with another brand that was made in China.


----------



## bigJohninvegas (May 25, 2014)

Yes I just made my own using a router buddy circle jig.
And looking for hard to find table saw inserts. I use a ridgid 4512 table saw and the onle zero, and dado throat 
plate I found were through a company called lee craft. Very good product and fits the ridgid saw well.
While I did not see the harbor freight saw in the list, most of that central Machine stuff is out of the same factory as a name brand. Figure out what saw its a copy of and that plate will most likely work.
here is the link to Leecraft. http://www.leecraftzeroclearance.com/


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

RE: Bandsaw plate. Had a cheapo B&D 12" a long time ago. Wound up adding a layer to the entire steel (maybe) table. I cut the blade groove, then slid the plywood in place. Seem to remember just double stick tape to hold in place.


----------



## Rayne (Mar 9, 2014)

How about just using double-sided tape on 1/8" hardboard, use a really sharp utility knife to cut the hardboard around the insert, then keep it like that to use a template router bit to go along the thickened insert?


----------



## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Why are we still tolerating those saws that can only accommodate a thin insert plate? I urge everybody to boycott those saws. There's not excuse in the world for not making a saw that can take a 3/8" or thicker insert. Even 1/4" would be an improvement. Trouble is, if you say that to the salesperson, they shrug it off, because they don't give a rip, and even if they did, there's no way they can communicate customers' concerns to top management. If I'm wrong about that, I'd like to hear about it.

I know the vendors don't make the stuff, but they could sure as hell let the manufacturers know they have unhappy customers.

I'm not going to hold my breath.


----------



## Praxi (Jan 4, 2018)

Thread necro, but this is the #1 Google for HF table saw throat plate. Anyone tried the rigid plates? Caught these on Amazon, going to give them a try see if I can make them fit. http://a.co/hfoRDah


----------



## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

I just noticed the date of the thread (2014) that Praxi brought up. . . . . . 
maybe the problem still exists about thin replacement inserts.

I had a 10" SKIL portable TS and had the same problem.
I made an insert out of 1/8" plexiglass and stuck it in with double sided carpet tape.
it worked "ok" but I would not suggest it to a beginner with limited experience in TS safety. 
No. 1 reason is that with a plexiglass (or hardboard) insert, you can not use it with the riving knife (splitter) 
in place. and if you do not use the splitter - terrible terrible things can happen very, very quickly.
so use 1/8" aluminum sheet that you can cut the slot for the splitter and use the saw safely.

Learn how to make sleds for your particular saw - then you can make smaller cuts safely.
with a sled, you will not need the replacement insert - the plywood sled becomes your new insert.
Pinterest has a lot of plans for TS sleds and YouTube has videos on how to use them.

*THE SPLITTER (RIVING KNIFE) IS THERE FOR A REASON !!! USE IT !!!*

.


----------



## Knockonit (Nov 5, 2017)

I think I"d try and find a phenolic cutting board of approximate thickness and make one, then sand or mill recess for making it flush.


----------

