# Routing question that there has to be a solution for



## Patterson (Oct 27, 2018)

Hi all, need help here! So I am making a conference room table, and I've never made a table top this large. It'll be made out of walnut and as part of it, I'd like to have a maple "inlay" in the middle as in the pic.

I was planning on using a router to route out the area for the inlay, but I don't think it will work upon further review as the router is only about 6 inches wide, and won't be supported on the sides after a point.

Any advice on how to do this?? Thanks so much for any advice or guidance!!

Jeff


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## Snowbeast (Sep 26, 2014)

I have never tried this but you may want to look at making a larger, temporary base for the router that will give you more of a footprint to stay on the original surface. Won't have to be too thick so long as it will still allow you to extend the bit deep enough for your design recess.

Lexan or plexiglass should be sturdy enough while still allowing you to see through.

Or maybe you could resaw the walnut where the insert will be down to the thickness you need before assembly?


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## Think0075 (Feb 25, 2019)

You can do it without getting too fancy, just make a block to fit into the void and slide it down as you go along, work from one side to the other. One half the router supported by the material u have yet to clear and the other half supported by the block you make to fit in. when I have done this in the past i use a jig to cut out the border and clear the waste free hand with the router, square corners up with chisel. Make sure u keep it inlay thin, otherwise u might have issues with movement.


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

Start in the middle


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

as a sign maker, I often routed large letters and graphics.
making oversized base plates out of plexiglass or any solid material
is pretty simple. a nice big plastic base plate is always nice to have on hand.
and as noted above, clean up the corners with chisels, carving knives, etc.
or - find a true straight 1×6 and clamp each end to the table. then you can use a 
top bearing pattern bit. slowly working down to the desired depth to make the profile.
then clean it out with the oversized base plate router.
https://www.lumberjocks.com/JHSmith/blog/129964










.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Many ways to do it. My 2 cents worth…

Kinda like Snowbeast above. Use a piece of plywood or MDF large enough to support the router and use it to make a template of the area you need to cut out. You would use strips of wood to make the template then remove them and use copious amounts of double sided tape (and/or clamps if possible) to position said template on your table top then follow that with a pattern bit. Just make sure it is *sturdy and well stuck* to the table.

Or, depending on the size of the inlay, Just like this.










I'd probably use an 1/4 or even 1/8" bit for the edges just to keep the corners sharp.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Maybe a router sled?

A plunge router works for me.



















Top picture is public domain the second picture is mine flattening a Eucalptus stump.


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

> *I am making a conference room table*
> 
> Jeff


Jeff - have you started the assembly yet ??
if not, this is the piece that I would do FIRST - not after the glue up.

a few questions: how big will the table be?
are you actually going to glue up all those individual pieces of wood as in the sketch?
is this your design or the customer ?
personally, I am not a fan of lining up all the joints as in the drawing.
I would opt for a random pattern like in a wood floor.
it appears that the "inlay" is the same size as three boards.
if this is the case, you could make the maple board an "insert" the same thickness
as the walnut boards and there will not be any routing at all. (just a thought).










and what is the center square for ? I am assuming a hole for computer cords ?









.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

> *So, I am making a conference room table*
> 
> Jeff
> 
> ...


John beat me to it. His is the simplest solution.


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## Firewood (Dec 4, 2013)

.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

+1 on what John & said. My first thought was mill it with the walnut and make it part of the glue up.

I would glue up either side of the maple first, then assemble the center section, then joint and glue the whole panel up.

You'll have to reinforce the end grain glue up. Many ways to do this: spline, tongue and groove, biscuits, dowels, Dominoes, floating tenons.

Of course this assumes you have a full thickness piece of maple.

If you do have to route it, just start in the middle. A larger custom router plate will help alot.


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## Patterson (Oct 27, 2018)

> *I am making a conference room table*
> 
> Jeff
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the input! For my real job, we just moved offices and I volunteered to make a conference room table along with a few other pieces.

The table top is 12' by 5'. Nothing is glued up yet but I've shaped all the walnut pieces. It is my design. I did the shorter pieces because I have a smaller jointer and planer and it makes bigger pieces a little tough to get squared up, and yes, am planning on gluing it all up.

Part of the reason I'm trying to do it as an inlay is that I'm finishing the pieces separately, using Walnut Danish Oil on the walnut and clear Danish Oil on the maple. Yes the center is going to be a cutout for computer cords.


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## Patterson (Oct 27, 2018)

Are there any videos of or instructions on routing from the middle? I'm having a hard time visualizing that…


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## Patterson (Oct 27, 2018)

What if I left a thin strip, like a centimeter or two, in between sections of routed areas and then hand chiseled that out…that may work…


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> What if I left a thin strip, like a centimeter or two, in between sections of routed areas and then hand chiseled that out…that may work…
> 
> - Patterson


That'll work. Even just 5 or 6 mm should be enough. If you have a small router plane, you can swing the blade around to the bullnose side and work it perfectly flush very easily. Otherwise, careful paring with the chisel will be fine.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

You're not using the right router for the job;










heheh

just sayin'


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## Patterson (Oct 27, 2018)

> You re not using the right router for the job;
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Haha I wish!!


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## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

> Start in the middle
> 
> - LeeRoyMan


This ^^^

Start in the middle and work your way out to the finish edge. You'll be supported by one half of the router plate the entire time. Still not a bad idea to increase the size with a piece of 3/8" lexan or similar if you feel you need more stability.


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## Patterson (Oct 27, 2018)

Following up on this, starting in the middle was the method I used and it worked very well, just a couple small sections to chisel out by hand.


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

very nicely done !!



















when you have time, could you add a close up photo of the hole in the insert ??

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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

The base molding compliments the inlay nicely. Beautiful work and thanks for the update.


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