# Lie-Nielsen Cabinet Maker's Rabbeting Scraper Plane - to buy or not?



## beevis (Jul 30, 2010)

Any of you guys own this plane?
I find very little info about it - only one or two youtube videos.

I am just "getting into" scraping. Seems like a very useful tool.

I purchased the LN #4 bronze smoothing plane because I do a lot of work in curly maple, even got the 50 degree frog. But that tool sits on my bench collecting dust because it still tears out like crazy.

I like the small size of this scraper plane.

Would you consider it a useful adjunct to a card scraper?

Thanks.


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## gargey (Apr 11, 2016)

Are you sure that you have your #4 performing to the maximum of its abilities?


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## beevis (Jul 30, 2010)

Probably not, actually. It needs to be sharpened. 
But every video I watch of people scraping are doing it on woods like curly maple, tiger oak, etc…
If a smoothing plane would work on all that, why would anyone scrape?


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

I think your headed in the right direction Ben.I have a Ln bronze smoother and it does a fantastic job most of the time.There are woods that cannot be handplaned so I scrap.
I use a card scraper with a card scraper you'll have four edges you can flip around and use in a instant.Then if you have two or three ready well you get the point.


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## derekcohen (Jul 15, 2007)

Ben, learn to set the chipbreaker close to the edge of the blade to control tearout.

I have a LN#3 and originally used a 55 degree fro. Still got tearout. Now I use a 45 degree from with the chipbreaker set. No tearout. In fact, I have a Veritas #4 Custom with a 42 degree frog. With the chipbreaker set, no tearout.

Here are a couple of articles:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/SettingTheChipbreaker.html

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=newarticles&file=articles_935.shtml

Regards from Perth

Derek


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

> Probably not, actually. It needs to be sharpened.
> - Ben


Are you saying that you use a hand plane without sharpening it and considering buying a new one because the existing does not perform ?
Hint: I sharpen my plane before every project, unless it is a pass or two to make a bevel or remove some small blemish.


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## gargey (Apr 11, 2016)

Good to know your situation better. If you want a new tool, no one will stop you, but I highly recommend:
1) Sharpening to super-duper sharp levels (not easy, but important)
2) Taking very very light passes (small depth of cut)
3) Setting the chipbreaker very close to the edge

These 3 things can make a big difference. Yes, there are some woods that are unmanageable, but hand planes that are setup well reduce the number materially.

Also, keep the sole of the plane oiled, that helps too.


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## beevis (Jul 30, 2010)

Thanks guys. I'll check out those articles on setting up the chip breaker in my #4. So far I've found it pretty fussy to set up, but granted I have very little experience with it.
Back to my original question: is it not worth buying a scraper plane in addition to, or instead of a card scraper?


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> Are you saying that you use a hand plane without sharpening it and considering buying a new one because the existing does not perform ?
> Hint: I sharpen my plane before every project, unless it is a pass or two to make a bevel or remove some small blemish.


You should take the time to check out Ben's project page and follow the link to his business web site before you try to educate him. He's far more skilled than most of us.


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## ColonelTravis (Mar 19, 2013)

I sometimes use crazy grain wood. Not long ago I bought a LN 4 1/2 with a 55 degree frog and that solved some of my issues. But there are times when a scraper is the only thing that will work. I love card scrapers but having a lot of mass behind them with a plane is beneficial. Also, this kind of plane works well if you're doing inlay. I've never warmed up to a Stanley 80 and doubt I ever will.

A scraper plane is on my To Buy list. But it wouldn't be the rabbet, it would be the larger non-rabbet one, which is only $20 more. More mass, I have no use for a rabbeting plane when I scrape. I guess there are times when you would want one, but those times never ever show up for me.

If you're already using a card scraper a lot now, I would recommend looking into a scraper plane.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

I'm with ColonelTravis in that I would opt for the wider plane without the rabbeting feature. I just don't see a use for that in my shop. I disagree about the Stanley 80 though ;-0 I like mine.

Personally I just like scrapers, especially for figured woods or really gnarly grain. I wouldn't be surprised if one of the 112-type scraper planes is in my near future.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

The Veritas large scraping plane is just the ticket for the gnarly grain other tools cant quite get. Review here. Card scrapers are fine for small areas or tight spots, but too hard on the hands and wrists to use much.

Agree sharpness and chip breaker setting from the cutting edge are major players in smoothing tough grain. I have a 63* Mujingfang woodie that does well too.


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## JohnChung (Sep 20, 2012)

@Ben. The LN #4 is an exceptional plane. But still one has to use it within the limits. As mentioned by Derek try with the cap iron first. It should solve the problem else another technique needs to be used.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Sharp and proper cap iron setup is critical. I've planed against the grain just to see how good it worked when setup properly. It worked very well.


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## bridgerberdel (Dec 31, 2014)

A stock bailey pattern plane sharp and fettled can definitely handle figured maple.


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