# Plywood Alternative



## jrobie79 (Jun 29, 2012)

I am going to be making a table, I want the dimensions to be a full 4×8 sheet of plywood, however I am trying to avoid the weight of plywood. I built a previous table like this, covered the top with 6"x6" parquet tiles glued down to 3/4" birch plywood, with a 1.5"x1.5" 16" O.C. frame on the underside, however it was REALLY heavy. The size and weight made it a little difficult to transport even with 2 people.

I am trying to build something identical without the weight, and was wondering what kind of products could you recommend that have similar strength properties as plywood, are just as stiff or stiffer than plywood with a 16" O.C. frame. I've heard of honeycomb type synthetic panels and foam boards used on boats as fiberglass underlayments. The table will get heavy usage, and I do not want something that will break if someone inadvertently sits on the table.

this is what my old one looked like prior to putting on decals and what not


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

torsion box, or in your case - maybe just an underside webbing without the lower plate to reduce weight


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

If the tile is stable enough, take a hole saw to the plywood to cut some weight out, or take a forstner bit to the bottom and cut the holes halfway though


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

Build the top in 2 halves and join them on site with dogbones.

I just don't see how you think you're going to build a wood table that doesn't weigh as much as wood.

It's WOOD.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

How about 1/4 ply top and bottom glued to a ridge foam core with 1/2" ply frame?


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

I was thinking torsion box with 1/4" skins and 1/2" bracing on the inside.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

The tiles are a substantial part of the weight. The thinner you
can make them the better in terms of weight.


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## jrobie79 (Jun 29, 2012)

"I just don't see how you think you're going to build a wood table that doesn't weigh as much as wood."

I was assuming there was some composite material/panels that could be used a replacement. Can anyone shed more details on the rigid core board? I like the torsion box idea with a piece of 1/4" as the substrate to glue the parquet tiles to.


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

I was somewhere along the lines of Jim - except I thought that you might try the cardboard offset core you can buy. So strong and durable they make claw pads for cats, and corner braces for shipping boxes out of it. Laminate it with 1/4" top and bottom. And technically, it's wood!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

You can use Paul's Idea or mine they are both glued in the middle, depending on the span you have you could Incorporate Joe's idea with a hole saw to take some of the weight out. Using the foam core all you do is spread some glue over either the foam or the 1/4" material (I'd use liquid nails) and do a bunch of figure 8s rather than solid glue and apply a reasonable amount of weight on top(belt sanders,routers,spare pieces of plywood) . The thickness of the foam will depend on what thickness you want and the span you'll have. If you are going to drill holes in the bottom I'd wait for the glue to dry.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

You can buy high density corregated panels (Cardboard) that are strong as plywood at about half the weight.
If you laminate a backer to both faces it becomes very rigid.
We use something like this for commercial office system panels. (HPL face) 
(You may be familar with a large Swedish RTA furniture store that uses the same panels.)

However, I suspect a lot of your table weight is from components other than the 3/4X4'X8' plywood sheet which is only approximately 65 lbs.

EDIT: On the West Coast, Lumber Products carries the panels.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

Torsion box, wheather the core is a wood grid or foam, is the way to go.
Sinse the skins are in compression or tension only, you can use 3/16 hardboard and be plenty rigid.
If you go with foam, I'd use the thickest practical, 2" perhaps.
Also, with foam, be sure to use an adhesive designed for foam. It's readily available.
I would make a perimiter frame out of wood even with the foam core to protect the edges.

And, I agree with others here, keep the tiles as thin and light as possible.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I think DS and others have really made a good point about the weight of the parquet, is there any way that you might use a Formica for the top ? I know it's not wood but it comes in wood patterns.


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## jrobie79 (Jun 29, 2012)

I'd be willing to use formica for the top, can you point to any sources? I saw some of those self stick tiles but they look like crap


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Most box stores carry some formica but full service hardware's have hundreds of samples they can order. This is not a self stick product,you glue it down with contact cement. I think ask this old house and many other sites have a how too on it.

http://www.formica.co.uk/publish/site/eu/uk/en/home/collection/woodgrains.html


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## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

Just use the top layer of the parquet tile since it will be glued down anyway. essentially make your own tile pieces and glue each piece down. a lot more labor then formica but would be all wood then. i think others already gave enough info on the torsion box frame. think of a hollow core door slab; light weight but rigid. maybe you could get one ordered as a 4'x8' door.


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## jrobie79 (Jun 29, 2012)

well the parquet tile I was supposed to pick up fell through…and I dont really want to spend a lot of money so I was looking for stuff on craigslist and anything any contractors had for overstock. Anyone know a source where its cheap?

when I built that table, home depot was clearing the stuff out for like $.50 a square foot. shoulda stockpiled


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## Woodeo (May 19, 2015)

I like the idea of using a pre-built torsion box available from Lowe's pro desk as a no-sweat solution that is lightweight and high strength.


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