# Mineral Spirits and Poly Problem



## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

So I went do to HD the other day, grabbed some Kleen Strip Oderless Mineral Spirits (NOT the green eco-friendly junk), and a can of MinWax oil-based poly. I mixed them 50/50 and put down a coat on some 1/2" dyed birch ply. When it dried, I noticed that the finish has spots in it of white. So I sanded down, did it again, same issue. So I put this finish on once piece, and then do straight 100% poly on another piece. Once its dried and hardened, I see the white spots in the piece with the mixture, and the one with straight poly looks fine. So I can reasonably assume that my poly is OK. Why would the 50/50 mineral spirits mix cause this? I've made wipe-on poly before and not had this issue.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

Are they white spots or little air bubbles?


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

Do you have any pictures?


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

white spots, sorry no pics, will try to get some tonight. They're just a flat dull white.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I try to stay away from Minwax. Is it possible that you may have introduced some contamination during the mixing process?


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I don't think so, I mixed the poly in the can with a clean stir stick. I poured the poly and MS into a clean, dry plastic paint cup, mixed the MS in with the same stir stick. Straight poly coat came right out of the can.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Take a look at the Mineral Spirits, inside the jug/bottle. I had the same stuff, and at the bottom was a white milky (slightly thicker than milk) residue. Maybe you have some of that in yours, and it's getting into the mixture? I'm not sure if it was there the whole time for mine, but I noticed it more once it started running out. I only used mine to clean up, though


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## dlmckirdy (Oct 27, 2009)

I've had the same problems with Kleen Strip mineral spirits. I think it has to do with their low/no volitile hydrocarbon formula. I went to my LOCAL paint supplier and bought traditional miner spirits and solved the problems. The owner of the store/paint company said he gets the same complaints about Kleen Strip regularly.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

I think Doug is on the right train of thought….

"Odorless" mineral spirits can also be labeled "white" mineral spirits…. and I got a can a year ago that was just that…. white.

What Chris probably saw was a can that had been on the shelf a long time and whatever makes it white was settled down to the bottom.

I'm guessing that this stuff was tailored to artists and others who work with oil paints in doors and don't like to stink up their studios with solvent smells.

Use that can to clean paint brushes and get some plain old, cheap and stinky "paint thinner"

+10 man points to Ed for not whimping out and asking for help (aka directions) untill after he botched the finish twice! Keep doin' us proud brother :^)


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Lol thanks ssnvet. It's my software engineering background coming into play " "Huh, didn't work? OK, try it again. Still no. OK, try it again. Still not working? ..."


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## EPJartisan (Nov 4, 2009)

Have you tried naptha? Mineral Spirits just has too much junk in it for me.. I only use it as a cleaner. Naptha mixes really well with Poly.


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## Ktrumble (Mar 2, 2013)

I think I am having the same problem. Did it look like this? Did you end up stripping it or applying 100% poly?


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## camps764 (Dec 9, 2011)

yikes! That looks like a gorgeous piece Ktrumble - except that nasty spot.

Glad I read this thread…will keep using the stinky stuff.

I actually don't mind the smell of mineral spirits - sort of like when i was a kid I loved the smell of gasoline…

which might explain some things about me I suppose.


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## Ktrumble (Mar 2, 2013)

I too used the non stink min spirits. I also still like the smell of gasoline.


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## Ktrumble (Mar 2, 2013)

Here is the rest of the table. I also learned that you really need to wait until Danish oil dries before applying poly. I had a ton of bubbling. We also had a lot of rain, so clearcoat took 3-4 days to dry. I hate finishing, but I can't be impatient now after all the work I put into the piece.


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## Ktrumble (Mar 2, 2013)

This one literally had blood, sweat, and tears in it. Stabbed myself with a chisel, causing three stitches. My wife didn't understand why I stopped the bleeding, then immediately went back to the shop to scrub the blood off the table before going to the ER. I still can't feel the end of my finger.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

I was going to suggest that your dye wasn't completely dry and that moisture was migrating through the thinned varnish, but has yet to (or can't) migrate through the straight varnish. If it's just crap from the can pick up a box of paint filers or use coffee filters first.


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## Ktrumble (Mar 2, 2013)

For clarification, I used Watco natural Danish oil and general finish oil and urethane. The spot was already somewhat evident after the first coat of non-diluted urethane, then I sanded with 220 grit, and put second coat mixed with non-smelly mineral spirits.


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

For all the hype I like straight mineral spirits that smells like it did when I worked with my grandfather in the shop. No issues, always worked correctly. Having tried the eco-friendly disaster formula ONCE I doubt my mind can be changed on this matter. Sometimes it is better to just drive the nail into the wall with the biggest hammer and be happy, it ain't pretty but it gets the job done. (laughing)


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## bbc557ci (Sep 20, 2012)

I bought a gallon of the oderless stuff. Opened up the jug and got a look at it and got a gut feeling it's only use would be for brush cleaning.


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## Ktrumble (Mar 2, 2013)

I am still having issues. I sanded down the area to the exposed wood, cleaned with white mineral spirits, and reapplied clear coat. Area that was white was bigger, but more faint. I have now stripped the area again, but cleaned up with a cloth with just water and reapplied some Danish oil to the exposed wood. After letting it dry, I will attempt to apply clearcoat, but keep the min spirits away from process. I am thinking it affected the Danish oil. Thoughts?


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

If the spot isn't there after the Danish oil, then try Zinsser Sealcoat (dewaxed shellac) before the next step. This will help seal off that area in the event there is something leeching out of the wood. I don't buy the bad mineral spirits thing…the spot is too isolated.

When in doubt about compatibility, alway use the shellac to seal the products.


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## Ktrumble (Mar 2, 2013)

Thanks cosmic


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Don't use the oderless for mixing with finishes, just for cleaning. Also, Minwax is already made to a lower quality standard and really shouldn't be thinned any more.


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## Ktrumble (Mar 2, 2013)

Sanding down to the exposed wood and reapplying Danish oil fixed the problem. These areas had raised grain that after one coat of urethane was still exposed. I think the mineral spirits may have had a reaction with the Danish oil in these spots. I ended up breaking down and buying a hvlp sprayer because I was getting light brush strokes even with the sponge brushes from woodcraft. I am happy with the finish at this point. It is dry to the touch.

How long until it can be used as a dining table? I know the oil and urethane finish is still not as hard as it will get.


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

The longer the better, so say two weeks considering it is a table that is mostly likely used daily? Good to hear you have resolved this issue and can move past this issue. Nothing like having this float around in the "cobwebs of the mind," (Ukrainian saying translated in english).


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## Ktrumble (Mar 2, 2013)

With last coat applied.


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## Ktrumble (Mar 2, 2013)

The table isn't really rounded. This was a panorama to fit it all in one photo.


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## Ktrumble (Mar 2, 2013)

This is the base for the table. A local welding company put it together.


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## Frankengruvin (Feb 7, 2015)

I've been doing a lot lot of research on mineral spirits tonight while I'm standing this boring post (reading this string is part of that) and I thought I'd sign up and throw in my two cents. I live in Barstow, CA and I discovered after moving here last year that I couldn't buy (at least not at the home depot) the "old" kind of mineral spirits in this area. I do not know if it is an actual law or ordinance but I do know that this is SoCal and while there are a lot of cool things about here, common sense in the political sphere is not one of them. Anyway, whatever the case may be, the HD won't stock the standard kind, so I need to look elsewhere. I had a disastrous time trying to thin some Tried and True for use on a butcher block cutting board. I then realized that while it says Mineral Spirits on the outside of the plastic bottle, it ain't the mineral spirits I am used to. I bought the Tried and True at the Ontario, CA Rockler store and that's when I discovered that certain solvents aren't allowed to be used or at least sold in that area (LA County or somewhere close to LA), such as General Finish's Salad Bowl Varnish. I think some of that thinking has spread to the part of SoCal where I live. I'm now trying to trick Amazon into shipping me some old stuff.


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