# Setting Up Shop



## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

*3 Phase Power in a Home Workshop*

I just replaced a PoS Craftsman benchtop/portable table saw with a Delta 34-806 Unisaw. The problem? The unisaw has a 5 HP, 3 Phase motor. My shop has only 220V, 50A electrical service. I know all of this before I bought the saw. "No problem," I thought. "I'll get a static phase converter, which will de-rate the motor by 30% and I'll have the equivalent of a 3 HP Unisaw…Perfect." I had already done alot of the gound work evaluating the cost and availability of rotary phase converters, VFDs, replacement motors, etc., and discovered that a medium-duty 5 HP static phase converter from Enco (www.use-enco.com) would run me ~$120. So, I bought the saw and ordered the phase converter.

Today, I called Enco technical support after receiving an e-mail that basically stated all customers purchasing phase converters need to consult with technical support about the application. After explaining that I would be starting the motor under very light loads (just the pulleys and the blade) and that the motor would almost never be loaded to the fully 5 HP (typically 3 or less), I was told that the medium duty phase converter was basically capable of starting and running an unloaded 5 HP motor. Under almost any other circumstances they recommend their "heavy-duty" phase converters. For my 5 HP motor the cost would go up to just under $200.

Hmm…not great news. I knew that running this saw with a static phase converter was kind of a cobble-job to begin with, but for $120 it was much more attractive than a $300 replacement motor, a $600 VFD, or an $800 rotary phase converter. Now, I'm not so sure.

So, I'm back to square one, except that I now own an unusable Unisaw. I am currently looking into three options, all around $300 or less.

Option #1: Purchase the "Heavy-Duty" Static Phase Converter
Option #2: Replace the motor with a 3 HP single phase unit. Probably just over $300 by the time I replace the start-stop control and the drive pulley.
Option #3: Use an undersized 3 HP VFD as a phase converter. I know that 5 HP, Single Phase Input VFDs are available, but they're much less common and more expensive than a 3 HP version. I've got a technical inquiry in with one of the vendors to see if this is a valid option.

Each option has its advantages and disadvantages. My "perfect" solution? Find a working, used 5 HP Single Phase Input VFD for ~$100-$200. Odds of finding one: zero or close to it.

The worst part? Explaining to my wife that this project is going over budget.


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## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

*Three Phase Power...My Way*

After considerable research and input from from some helpful LumberJocks, I've decided on a static phase converter as my best option for powering my 5 HP Unisaw. The main reason is obvious…at ~$200 its the cheapest option available.

The alternatives were to buy a new single phase motor for $280, buy an *oversized* VFD (7-10 HP range) for $600 or more, or buy a rotary phase converter for $750.

But, I didn't decide on the static convert just because it was the cheapest option. My plan is to buy a static converter on the larger end of what I need…capable of starting a 7 or 8 HP motor. This will be adequate for running my 5 HP tablesaw (derated by ~30% or so). And in the future it will give me the flexibility to build a rotary phase converter with up to a 7.5 HP idler motor, allowing me to use any three phase equipment up to 5 HP. So, its the most cost effective now, and allows for a healthy upgrade at some point in the future.

I was also thinking that I may be able to use the Unisaw's 5 HP motor as an idler motor to power 3-phase equipment up to 3 HP. I'd have to disconnect the belts and get creative with the wiring, but it could be done with very minimal expense. Just in case I find a good deal on a 3-phase, 3 HP lathe sometime soon.

-DylanC


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## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

*Resurrecting a Dead Air Compressor*

A friend of mine is a salesman for commercial-industrial air compressors and often, when he sells a new compressor to a shop, they have an older one that is being replaced. Sometimes the units being replaced actually work, so I asked him to keep an eye open for a decent compressor for my shop. One day late last fall he called me up and told me he found an older 60 gallon vertical compressor in a local shop that wanted to get rid of it. Fifty bucks later it was mine. It was a bit of a gamble, but for $50 I would at least have a good tank.

As it turns out, it had a bad pump. But 2 weeks ago my friend came through again with a spare compressor that he had laying around. It is an older model Quincy 210QRB-301 (late 1990s model) with hydraulic unloaders and full pressure lubrication. Output at 800 rpm is 5.5 SCFM, 90 psi peak pressure. The peak pressure is a bit low, but its a special purpose compressor designed for lower pressure applications. Overall, higher quality but lower capacity than the OEM pump. It would take a bit of re-plumbing, but I was pretty sure it would work.

A trip to the local home improvement store for some copper tubing, compression fittings and some other odds and ends and I was ready to get to work. First I drilled some new holes and mounted the pump. The inlet and outlet ports of my new pump were reversed from the original, so my next job was to run some 1/2" OD copper from the tank to the opposite side of the compressor. It turned out pretty well (just one slight kink), but not too bad for my first time bending copper. The final step was to run 1/4" OD tubing to the pressure switch and to the unloaders on the compressor. I tightened up the fittings, adjusted the belt tension and plugged it in (again). I was happy to see the pressure climb steadily until the pressure switch disengaged the motor at 90 psi. I'm now the proud owner of a custom Quincy compressor.

The good: A good quality 60 gallon compressor for under $100.
The bad: Low peak and average supply pressure. The maximum pressure of the compressor is 90 psi and my pressure switch has a 30 psi deadband, which means my system's is really only to consistently deliver 60 psi air. I'll also need to shell out a few bucks for a new motor pulley to lower the drive ratio. Right now the pump is running just a bit over its max rated speed.

A few pics for those interested:


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## David175 (Jan 14, 2011)

DylanC said:


> *Resurrecting a Dead Air Compressor*
> 
> A friend of mine is a salesman for commercial-industrial air compressors and often, when he sells a new compressor to a shop, they have an older one that is being replaced. Sometimes the units being replaced actually work, so I asked him to keep an eye open for a decent compressor for my shop. One day late last fall he called me up and told me he found an older 60 gallon vertical compressor in a local shop that wanted to get rid of it. Fifty bucks later it was mine. It was a bit of a gamble, but for $50 I would at least have a good tank.
> 
> ...


looks like a pretty good deal…....you can get a presure switch that has a closer differential…..you should be able to ajust the valve unloader to get more presure


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

DylanC said:


> *Resurrecting a Dead Air Compressor*
> 
> A friend of mine is a salesman for commercial-industrial air compressors and often, when he sells a new compressor to a shop, they have an older one that is being replaced. Sometimes the units being replaced actually work, so I asked him to keep an eye open for a decent compressor for my shop. One day late last fall he called me up and told me he found an older 60 gallon vertical compressor in a local shop that wanted to get rid of it. Fifty bucks later it was mine. It was a bit of a gamble, but for $50 I would at least have a good tank.
> 
> ...


Look at all the money saved for more clamps. lol Nice job. Works for me.


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## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

*The difference between static phase converters*

Just a quick post to share what I learned about static phase converters while setting up my 3-phase Unisaw.

First off, there are two basic types. Each of them uses some type of capacitor circuit to energize the third phase of the motor just long enough to get the motor up to speed. After the motor is spinning the starting circuit is taken out of the loop and your three-phase motor is running on two phases of power. This was the first type of converter I looked at buying, but after speaking with a technical service representative, he informed that this type of converter is really only suited for powering motors loaded at only a fraction of their rated horsepower (see disussion of idler motors below). Any heavy loading (70 percent or greater) has the potential to cause permanent damage to your motor. (This is all based on information I got from a representative at Enco regarding a Phase-A-Matic converter.)

The second type of converter includes a second "run" capacitor circuit that engages after the starting capacitors are deactivated. This second capacitor is used to provide pulses of power to the third phase of the motor. Its not nearly a sine wave output, but its enough to allow consistent loading of the motor to 70 percent of rated capacity and intermittent loading of 90% of rated power (up to 15 minutes of 90% load with equal no load run time). (This is the type I ended up purchasing. The brand is Autogen and I bought it from Grizzly.)

Another interesting note is that if you run an unloaded 3-phase motor on 220V single phase power, the motor's third phase will act as a generator and will actually produce the third phase of power for any other motors operating on the same circuit. Each type of static converter above is capable of operating like this and suppliers of both types recommend this configuration as a type of poor-man's rotary phase converter. The folks who make the Autogen have a pretty good site explaining all types of converters and 3 phase power in general. http://www.gwm4-3phase.com/autogen.html


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## cabmaker (Sep 16, 2010)

DylanC said:


> *The difference between static phase converters*
> 
> Just a quick post to share what I learned about static phase converters while setting up my 3-phase Unisaw.
> 
> ...


I certainly admire you for doing the research and all but is there a particular reason you dont want to swap the motor for a single phase ? I just hate to see anyone go into this sorta deal with high expectations. If your anticaipating adding a battery of three phase equip. you will want a rotary convertor about two times the size you think you ll need.


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## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

DylanC said:


> *The difference between static phase converters*
> 
> Just a quick post to share what I learned about static phase converters while setting up my 3-phase Unisaw.
> 
> ...


I ended up with this setup for a couple of reasons. I originally found a good deal on a used 3-phase unisaw and thought I could get a $120 static phase converter and have a good saw for a good price. Then I learned that the cheap phase converter I had in mind wouldn't cut the mustard. At that point I looked into all my options with the following results:

Motor Swap, $290: That cost is for a new motor. Sure I could probably find a used one and buy a bracket, but that wouldn't be a fair comparison. I would also have had to replace the start/stop with a single phase unit with overload protection. That switch alone is $70 from Grizzly. Total cost would've been over $350.

Rotary Phase Converter, $1350: Great if you need to run several different pieces of equipment, 3-phase welders, or anything with digital controls on a 3-phase power input. The bad part is I would've paid more for the rotary converter than I did for the saw. Not really a good option financially.

VFD, ~$300: Excellent option for motors 3 HP and smaller. For these sizes you can get a VFD that will take 220V single phase and convert to legitimate 3-phase power. Unofficially you can rig larger units to do the same thing, but the VFD now has to be roughly doubled in size. A 10 HP drive for my 5 HP motor would've been ~$700. Again, more than I paid for the saw.

Static Phase Converter, ~$220: Gets my saw running and allows me to load it to 3 HP continuously, 5 HP intermittently. The cost basically offset the deal I got on the saw, but I now have the ability to and operate any 3-phase equipment up to 7 HP or so without any additional investment. I don't actually plan on purchasing any other 3-phase stuff, but if a great deal on a lathe, bandsaw or something else passes by, I can jump on it. And, by running the largest motor on the circuit (unloaded), I've got the ability to run smaller equipment at full power.

So, the reason I ended with a static converter was cost, basically. And it gives me some moderate flexibility on future equipment purchases. Kind of a win-win.


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## Shaka (Sep 5, 2012)

DylanC said:


> *The difference between static phase converters*
> 
> Just a quick post to share what I learned about static phase converters while setting up my 3-phase Unisaw.
> 
> ...


How is this setup with the static phase converter working for you so far. I also just got a great deal on a 5hp 3ph table saw and looking to hook it up.


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## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

*Shop Built Router Table for under $30*

In the short time I've been a member of LJs, I've learned 2 very important things. First, it really is amazing what a person can do with a shop full of fancy tools and a little know-how. Second, all you really need are a few key tools, some basic skills and plenty of patience to achieve satisfactory results. Sure, I'd like to have a $900 router table with a $300 lift in it, but it's not going to happen. So I built my own for under $30. I'll post some pictures in the next day or so, but the main idea is simplicity.

I started with the Minimalist Router Table plan from FWW (http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/11120/free-plan-minimalist-router-table). I used a piece of scrap countertop for the top and used other scraps to build a basic 3-sided box for a base. Bought a 24" tall stand on clearance for $10 and spent another $3 on wood for the fence. Invested another couple of dollars in a switch, receptacle, power strip and two single-gang boxes for a table mounted switch. A a few bucks tied up in screws, bolts and washers to hold it all together.

Its no beauty but it's good enough for me, for now. Maybe someday I'll upgrade to a model with an aluminum router plate and a T-track, but that day is a long ways off.

-Dylan


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## woody57 (Jan 6, 2009)

DylanC said:


> *Shop Built Router Table for under $30*
> 
> In the short time I've been a member of LJs, I've learned 2 very important things. First, it really is amazing what a person can do with a shop full of fancy tools and a little know-how. Second, all you really need are a few key tools, some basic skills and plenty of patience to achieve satisfactory results. Sure, I'd like to have a $900 router table with a $300 lift in it, but it's not going to happen. So I built my own for under $30. I'll post some pictures in the next day or so, but the main idea is simplicity.
> 
> ...


Looks fine to me. One thing I do with mine is I make the top separate so it can come off easily. That way you can make different tops for different jobs and change out as needed. I just have a friction fit. Currently I need a new fence for mine. It seems like there is always something else you can do to make it better. I've probably about 5 or 6 different fences over the years.


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## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

DylanC said:


> *Shop Built Router Table for under $30*
> 
> In the short time I've been a member of LJs, I've learned 2 very important things. First, it really is amazing what a person can do with a shop full of fancy tools and a little know-how. Second, all you really need are a few key tools, some basic skills and plenty of patience to achieve satisfactory results. Sure, I'd like to have a $900 router table with a $300 lift in it, but it's not going to happen. So I built my own for under $30. I'll post some pictures in the next day or so, but the main idea is simplicity.
> 
> ...


When I built this fence, I did leave enough open space directly behind the bit so that I could add dust collection someday, although I'm not sure how well it will work with the open cabinet underneath. When you say you have different tops for different jobs, what's the difference between them? My top is screwed on, but that can be changed if necessary.


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## cutmantom (Feb 2, 2010)

DylanC said:


> *Shop Built Router Table for under $30*
> 
> In the short time I've been a member of LJs, I've learned 2 very important things. First, it really is amazing what a person can do with a shop full of fancy tools and a little know-how. Second, all you really need are a few key tools, some basic skills and plenty of patience to achieve satisfactory results. Sure, I'd like to have a $900 router table with a $300 lift in it, but it's not going to happen. So I built my own for under $30. I'll post some pictures in the next day or so, but the main idea is simplicity.
> 
> ...


dust collection right at the bit works very well, i think though you might find the top warping if the lamiate is only on the top, i cant tell from the picture, i had one similar and it did work for quite a while, when it sagged i would put a clamp on the legs to bow the top back to flat, i didnt have the stand you have which may take care that


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## woody57 (Jan 6, 2009)

DylanC said:


> *Shop Built Router Table for under $30*
> 
> In the short time I've been a member of LJs, I've learned 2 very important things. First, it really is amazing what a person can do with a shop full of fancy tools and a little know-how. Second, all you really need are a few key tools, some basic skills and plenty of patience to achieve satisfactory results. Sure, I'd like to have a $900 router table with a $300 lift in it, but it's not going to happen. So I built my own for under $30. I'll post some pictures in the next day or so, but the main idea is simplicity.
> 
> ...


DylanC
About the different tops. When I'm in a project that requires several router set ups I like to set each one up and leave it until the job is finished. I also failed to mention that I have 9 routers (I hate to change bits). I forget that most people only have one or two. I have some routers dedicated to certain bits. One always has a 1/4" roundover, one always has a flush trim bit, one always has a 1/8" roundover, one always has a slot cutter, etc. I learned to work this way in a commercial cabinet shop and I can't break the habit. It's a big time saver.


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## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

DylanC said:


> *Shop Built Router Table for under $30*
> 
> In the short time I've been a member of LJs, I've learned 2 very important things. First, it really is amazing what a person can do with a shop full of fancy tools and a little know-how. Second, all you really need are a few key tools, some basic skills and plenty of patience to achieve satisfactory results. Sure, I'd like to have a $900 router table with a $300 lift in it, but it's not going to happen. So I built my own for under $30. I'll post some pictures in the next day or so, but the main idea is simplicity.
> 
> ...


Woody57 - I guess when you've got 9 routers you need save money where you can. Even just $60 on a replaceable table insert adds up to over $500 in a big hurry.


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## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

*I Can Do That, Chapters 1 and 2*

So, I'm (slowly) working on building up an arsenal of tools to begin my woodworking, and more often than I care to admit, I find myself browsing through the Grizzly catalog or some website, making a mental wish-list. Most of my time is spent contemplating how much I am willing to spend for a jointer/planer/bandsaw/etc. That's when it hit me.

I've started a few hobbies in my life that I never really pursued. Spent a lot of money with no results. For example, freshman year of college I bought an electric guitar and a few accessories…probably spent $400-$500 bucks. That's a lot of money for a college student. I never learned to play a single song. Never even tried, really.

So I don't want to make that same mistake again. Even if woodworking turns out to be a lifelong hobby for me, I'd like to get some results before I spend thousands of dollars on tools. So now I start asking myself, "What are the bare essentials I NEED to have in order to make nice stuff?" That's when I stumbled on the "I Can Do That" manual from Popular Woodworking. It's a few years old, but it does a pretty good job of outlining the basic tools (hand and power) a beginning woodworker should start out with. It also lays down a few ground rules on "good behavior."

The first rule is take care of the tools you've got. Do what you need to do to keep them rust-free. Rule two is to learn to keep your tools sharp and tuned up. Without rules one and two, even a $300 hand plane will end up junk. Rule three is to buy tools that will last, and will do the job you bought them for. That doesn't mean you need to buy top-of-the-line, but buying quality pays off. Buying "disposable" tools is a waste of time and money.

The first chapter (Chapter 2) with recommended tool purchases is dedicated to measuring tools. The two basics recommended by the author are a 12" combination square and a 16' tape measure. When buying, make sure that the square is really 90 degrees and that the scales on the ruler and the tape measure are both accurate. If an inch on one tool isn't the same as an inch on the other, bad things will happen.

With this advice in mind, I started acquiring measuring tools. Besides the 12" combination square, I also bought a 6" combination square to use as a try square. And, an engineer by trade, I wanted to have a digital caliper for precise measurement and set-ups. And just for good measure (no pun intended) I bought a 6" and 12" steel ruler so that I wouldn't need to disassemble my combination squares when I needed a ruler. The 12" ruler came from the drafting section of an office supply store…I couldn't seem to find one at the local big-box stores. I already have a few tape measures, but mine are all 25' plus "carpenter" type tapes. I'll probably pick up a 16-footer sometime soon. The logic here is that the smaller tapes are lighter, more flexible and will lay flatter than their larger brothers.

I've been trying to review all my tool purchases here on LJ.com, so look there for detailed reviews. Sometime soon I'll post on Chapter 3: Saws. I know I was surprised to see what tools did (and didn't) make the list.


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## flippedcracker (Sep 7, 2011)

DylanC said:


> *I Can Do That, Chapters 1 and 2*
> 
> So, I'm (slowly) working on building up an arsenal of tools to begin my woodworking, and more often than I care to admit, I find myself browsing through the Grizzly catalog or some website, making a mental wish-list. Most of my time is spent contemplating how much I am willing to spend for a jointer/planer/bandsaw/etc. That's when it hit me.
> 
> ...


I do the same thing. I start a new hobby, buy all the essentials to get going, and then stop doing it. That's why I've been slightly reluctant to buy tools. A good place to start Witt the bigger tools is craigslist or eBay. Never underestimate the power and value of buying used. I found a 6" craftsman jointer on CL for $75. It work great and should last me at least a few years. A bonus is that the same guy was also selling a disc/belt sander, but wasn't getting any bites so he gave it to me for free. There are deals to be found, if you're lucky and persistent.


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## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

DylanC said:


> *I Can Do That, Chapters 1 and 2*
> 
> So, I'm (slowly) working on building up an arsenal of tools to begin my woodworking, and more often than I care to admit, I find myself browsing through the Grizzly catalog or some website, making a mental wish-list. Most of my time is spent contemplating how much I am willing to spend for a jointer/planer/bandsaw/etc. That's when it hit me.
> 
> ...


You are right about the used tools…that's how I got my Unisaw. Probably how I will eventually get a planer, jointer, bandsaw, etc. In the meantime, borrowing is even cheaper than buying used


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

DylanC said:


> *I Can Do That, Chapters 1 and 2*
> 
> So, I'm (slowly) working on building up an arsenal of tools to begin my woodworking, and more often than I care to admit, I find myself browsing through the Grizzly catalog or some website, making a mental wish-list. Most of my time is spent contemplating how much I am willing to spend for a jointer/planer/bandsaw/etc. That's when it hit me.
> 
> ...


You bring up a topic I have talked with other people often about. I always recommend them starting with things that will be useful through life anyway, like hammer, drill, circular saw, square, things like that. I had these basic tools when I started woodworking. All of these, even if you decided you absolutely hated woodworking, you may still need through life, especially if you have your own home.


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## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

*I Can Do That, Chapter 3*

A comment from William on my previous blog entry mentioned that his advice to beginning woodworkers usually involved investing in tools that would be useful to any type of handy-person, not just woodworkers. Things like circular saws, drills, and hammers that are essential to almost any type or DIY work around the house.

William's advice reads like a page from the I Can Do That (ICDT) Manual. Chapter 3 is titled *Saws - Jigsaw, Miter Saw, Circular Saw*. This was music to my ears, as I already own all three.

Starting with the Jigsaw, the author argues that a quality jigsaw with the right blade can do many of the jobs that usually end up at the bandsaw. And what makes a quality jigsaw? For starters, the author recommends a barrel-type handle (which offers better control) over the more traditional top-style handle. A quick & convenient blade release is a must, and should be standard on any name-brand saw. A blade stroke of 1" is typical and shorter strokes should be avoided. Amperage of the saw is not critical, but it should have a nice long cord. Some saws offer an orbital setting, which moves the blade forward and backward, in addition to up and down. This generally improves the speed of the cut, but usually results in a rougher edge. Other features like worklights and dust-blowers are nice, but not deal breakers. My saw is a basic Black & Decker model. It doesn't have any of the "optional" features mentioned in the ICDT Manual, but it does have a 3-blade storage compartment on the saw, which I really like. Oh, and the blades recommended by the author: the Bosch T234X and T101BR.

The miter saw is next on the list, and can be used to make cross-cuts on all sorts of projects. I own a 12" Craftsman compound saw, and for the most part it serves its purpose. However, I generally feel that craftsman power tools can't compete with other national brands based on quality. The ICDT Manual makes no endorsement of any brand, but generally recommends a basic 10" miter saw, although most saws on the market today are of the compund-type, and even sliders can be priced quite competitively. Twelve inch saws offer a significant increase in cutting capacity (and price), but that extra capacity may not be necessary and a slider can be a good compromise. Also, blades from a 10" saw are likely to be more affordable than for the 12". Other features to look for are ease of adjustment, and a quality, carbide blade with between 40 and 80 teeth. The adjustment feature refers to the ability to adjust the soft "stops" that indicate the saw is at 90, 45, or other common angle. These stops need to be adjustable in order to assure accurate miters.

The third and final saw in this chapter is the basic circular saw. With the right saw and a shop-made fitted guide, a circular saw can compete with a stationary table saw as far as accuracy, and can be easier to use when cutting full size sheet goods down to size. Here, the author recommends a basic sidewinder (as opposed to a worm-drive model) with a metal base and large, easy to use adjustments. The saw should feel comfortable in your hands, and be light enough to use comfortably. Also, the saw should have a built in locking mechanism for changing the blade. The author recommends avoiding battery-powered saws, mainly due to the limited amount of power that batteries are able to store and the inconvenience of having to wait for a battery to charge before you can make your cut. Again, the blade is a critical component of the tool and a carbide blade with more teeth will give a cleaner cut. As with my miter saw, I started with a Craftsman circular saw. I built my shop with it and while I was finishing the interior, the motor seized. That same day I upgraded to a mid-range Makita and haven't regretted the purchase yet.

In the end, how you use the tools is at least as important as the quality of the tools. A $300 jigsaw is no good at all if the operator can't remember which side of the line to cut on.


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## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

*I Can Do That, Chapter 4*

Chapter 4 of the I Can Do That Manual deals with boring tools: Drills and Awls. As with the chapter on saws, I found I've already got what I need to get started, but upgrades/additions to my current toolset wouldn't be a bad idea.

Ok, basically everyone should already own a drill of some sort. For me, its a corded 1/2" reconditioned Makita with a hammer drill functions. I know, its not the ideal woodworking tool. First, its too big, too heavy, and too overpowered to use comfortably on most fine woodworking jobs. Second, the cord can be an inconvenience. But, it has its benefits, too. I can use it on any job around the house, including boring holes into a concrete slab. Second, because its corded, I never have to worry about a dead battery holding up my work. I also own a 3/8" 12V cordless B&D drill that will very soon end up in the trash. Its a few years old now (6-7 maybe?) and I've never really been able to use it. For household jobs that are few and far between, the battery would die while it was sitting in the case. So, unless I wanted to wait a few hours for it to charge, I just reached for the big Makita. Now that I want to use it more frequently, the battery is shot and won't hold a charge. I can replace the drill for the same cost as a new battery, so that looks like a waste of money in my opinion. (It may also be worth mentioning that mine is a NiCad battery. I've heard the newer Lithium batteries are better, but they're also pretty expensive yet.)

So, I'm not going to rush out and buy a new cordless drill this afternoon, but I am going to keep my eyes open for a decent deal. The ICDT Manual offers a few tips on what I should be looking for.

First, those 18V contractor models are probably a little overkill for woodworking. Like my Makita, they're too big and heavy for many woodworking tasks. The author recommends a 12V or 9.6V model that will be lighter and easier to control. Also for better control, variable speed and variable torque settings are a must. These are usually found on all but the cheapest tools. Lastly, you want a keyless chuck with tight-closing jaws. This is another area where bigger drills (like mine) may fall short. Because my 1/2" drill is designed for big, rough jobs, the jaws don't close tightly enough to grip very small bits. This can wreck your day if you need to drill a really small hole.

And the author goes on to recommend one other type of boring tool…the awl. Your basic awl can be pushed into softer woods to start holes for screws and other things. The author also suggests that you may want to buy a second awl, and modify it slightly. By filing down the round point to a four-sided bevel, it allows the awl to be twisted as its pressed into the wood. This lets you start deeper and larger holes than a standard awl. (The author shows a photo of his modified awl, also. The point looks very much like the business end of a 16d nail.)

The awl I bought after reading this article is a basic Stanley model with a rounded handle. Two flat spots on the sides of the handle keep if from rolling off the bench. I think it cost less than $5 at a local home center. Someday I may add a second 'modified' awl to my toolbox, but this one will work fine for now.

On a side note, I've read a few articles that recommend a brace as an very useful woodworking tool. I can certainly see the benefits (no cords, no batteries, etc.) but I'm not convinced that it would be very useful for driving screws or similar tasks. Might be worth keeping in mind, though, especially for drilling holes.


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

DylanC said:


> *I Can Do That, Chapter 4*
> 
> Chapter 4 of the I Can Do That Manual deals with boring tools: Drills and Awls. As with the chapter on saws, I found I've already got what I need to get started, but upgrades/additions to my current toolset wouldn't be a bad idea.
> 
> ...


A brace is awesome for driving screws. I have a bit holder for the 1/4 in hex bits and use it all the time. I can also put in the socket drive holder and easily drive large lag screws.

It generates a tremendous amount of force. Leverage is your friend.


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## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

*I Can Do That Wrap-Up*

Been a bit busy 'round my place…my wife and I had our first child on October 29th. His name is William (Billy) and he's pretty much kept me out of the shop since the day he arrived. But with a few days of vacation around the holidays, and Billy settling into a routine, I've gotten a few hours here and there to assess my tool inventory and make some sawdust

My slow-and-steady acquisition of tools has gotten me to the point where I am just about ready to start my first project. For Christmas I got myself a set of 4 Irwin-Marples chisels and a honing guide to get them sharp. (Starting with the scary-sharp method because of its low start-up costs.) Also used some cash gifts to but some Pony pipe clamps. So, back to the I Can Do That Manual to see what I am missing.

Chapter 5 lays out the basics for four finishing tools: a file, a rasp, a power sander, and a block plane. File? Check. Rasp? No. Power Sander? Check. Block plane? Check. My file is a cheapie from a local home store, and I'll pick up a rasp next time I'm at the store and remember I need one. My power sander is a palm-style 5" random-orbit Skil, the same size and style recommended in the ICDT Manual. And my block plane is a basic Stanley model I picked up (and reviewed on LJ) recently for $25 or so. Buy I do need to sharped it, hence the honing guide mentioned above. So chapter 5 is basically covered.

Chapter 6 recommends one of two joinery systems: pocket-hole jigs or a biscuit joiner. The ICDT manual suggests a Kreg K4 kit if you go the pocket-hole route. I happen to have a kit, but its certainly not the K4. I got it awhile ago and its roughly equivalent to the Kreg Jig Jr. kit currently available. It should work for awhile, and if it doesn't I've borrowed my dad's biscuit joiner. It's a Chicago Electric (Harbor Freight) model, so I'm not counting on it long-term. Eventually I'd like to upgrade to the Kreg K4 kit and also a decent biscuit joiner, both of which run over $150.

Chapters 7 and 8 run through recommendations for a hammer, screwdrivers, workbench and clamps. I've got a few hammers, and my favorite is a heavy Estwing with a waffle face (or what used to be a waffle face) that I used for framing. Not exactly the best tool for furniture making. I should probably pick up a replacement…maybe the same time I get that rasp. The ICDT Manual recommends a 16 oz. claw hammer with a wooden handle. I'll have to remember that. The manual also recommends a screwdriver with interchangeable bits. The logic is that one handle and 6 bits takes up a lot less space in your apron than 6 screwdrivers. Also sound advice.

I've already put together two small workbenches using 2×4s and some old countertop scraps, and bought a larger "bench" at a surplus sale. Its got a nice big work surface (probably 30" x 60" or bigger) and a sturdy metal frame. For $10, I couldn't say no. The ICDT manual recommends a Black and Decker Workmate if you need something to get started. That seems like a good thing to have around, but I'd just as soon build a bigger bench from 2×4s and some cheap plywood to get started.

And last, but certainly not least, are the clamps. The manual makes a point of recommending F-style clamps first and foremost because of their versatility. The take-away here is not to skimp on quality. Buy good clamps and you'll be happy. Buy junk clamps and you'll be sad. Too easy. The manual also mentions bar clamps as another type that every woodworker will need, and that pipe clamps are good way to get a clamp in just the length you need. As I said earlier, I've got a half-dozen pipe clamps already (4 foot pipe), and a pair each of cheapie 36" bar clamps, 36" F-clamps, knock-off 12" quick-grips, and Rockler 5" hand screws. Certainly not all the clamps I'll ever need, but enough to get me started.

That's it. Save a few minor tools, The ICDT Manual says I've got all the prerequisites. I guess that means "Setting Up Shop" is over and its time to get to work.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

DylanC said:


> *I Can Do That Wrap-Up*
> 
> Been a bit busy 'round my place…my wife and I had our first child on October 29th. His name is William (Billy) and he's pretty much kept me out of the shop since the day he arrived. But with a few days of vacation around the holidays, and Billy settling into a routine, I've gotten a few hours here and there to assess my tool inventory and make some sawdust
> 
> ...


Congrats on progress to date, assembling a working set of tools. What's the first project idea?  Good luck!


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## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

*No More Excuses...almost.*

Since I started this blog almost exactly 5 years ago, I've really only half-heartedly added tools to my collection, and generally just tinkered around with projects. As you can see, I've not posted a single "Project" here at lumberjocks. Until recently I kept telling myself that I couldn't tackle anything substantial because I didn't have the right tool(s). I'd say to myself, "If I only had a [bandsaw, planer, spindle sander, dovetail jig, etc.]." Well, no more.

A few months ago I came across Paul Sellers (PS) and his posts on YouTube and his blog. As I started reading and watching his posts, I got more interested in learning to use hand tools. Web browsing topics like planes and saws introduced me to a whole new view on woodworking. So, I decided to quit making excuses. I found the list of tools used during the 2-day introduction course taught by PS and started going down the list. (PDF of list here)

Some of the tools I had, others I still needed. Over the last 2 months I've managed to fill in the gaps and obtain basically every tool on the list (plus two spokeshaves included on the list for the 9-day course). Some of the tools are new, some are vintage, but all of them will get the job done. The tools on this list plus the power tools in my shop mean that I can't use my same old excuses anymore. There isn't a project I can't tackle, as long as it's within my skill level. Now if I could only find the time to get back to the shop…


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