# Dust Collection



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*6" HVAC duct supports*

after completing my Thien Baffle (well, a couple more things to do to it but has to wait til ducting is 100%).. next tackle is the HVAC 6" runs and duct supports. I'm directly running from the Thien Baffle inlet horizontally across my 2 car garage and branching off 8 6" wye's and 2 4" wye's along the 2"x12" board attached to the wall (which is hiding my horizontal electrical runs). 
Today, I spent time fabricating the 6" supports with the help of my newly arrived Grizzly circle cutter (upto 8" diameter). I'll have to give a review about this product soon as it helped me dial in the exact diameter I was looking for.
I made 12 supports.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

Holbs said:


> *6" HVAC duct supports*
> 
> after completing my Thien Baffle (well, a couple more things to do to it but has to wait til ducting is 100%).. next tackle is the HVAC 6" runs and duct supports. I'm directly running from the Thien Baffle inlet horizontally across my 2 car garage and branching off 8 6" wye's and 2 4" wye's along the 2"x12" board attached to the wall (which is hiding my horizontal electrical runs).
> Today, I spent time fabricating the 6" supports with the help of my newly arrived Grizzly circle cutter (upto 8" diameter). I'll have to give a review about this product soon as it helped me dial in the exact diameter I was looking for.
> I made 12 supports.


That looks pretty good. You might want to round over those exposed corners, just break the sharpness off of them so you don't do damage if you accidentally walk into one…


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## scoobydooo9r (Jan 24, 2008)

Holbs said:


> *6" HVAC duct supports*
> 
> after completing my Thien Baffle (well, a couple more things to do to it but has to wait til ducting is 100%).. next tackle is the HVAC 6" runs and duct supports. I'm directly running from the Thien Baffle inlet horizontally across my 2 car garage and branching off 8 6" wye's and 2 4" wye's along the 2"x12" board attached to the wall (which is hiding my horizontal electrical runs).
> Today, I spent time fabricating the 6" supports with the help of my newly arrived Grizzly circle cutter (upto 8" diameter). I'll have to give a review about this product soon as it helped me dial in the exact diameter I was looking for.
> I made 12 supports.


That's going to be a solid installation, great work on the supports.


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## whitebeast88 (May 27, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *6" HVAC duct supports*
> 
> after completing my Thien Baffle (well, a couple more things to do to it but has to wait til ducting is 100%).. next tackle is the HVAC 6" runs and duct supports. I'm directly running from the Thien Baffle inlet horizontally across my 2 car garage and branching off 8 6" wye's and 2 4" wye's along the 2"x12" board attached to the wall (which is hiding my horizontal electrical runs).
> Today, I spent time fabricating the 6" supports with the help of my newly arrived Grizzly circle cutter (upto 8" diameter). I'll have to give a review about this product soon as it helped me dial in the exact diameter I was looking for.
> I made 12 supports.


very nice supports,wish i'd thought of that when i was building my system.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *6" HVAC duct supports*
> 
> after completing my Thien Baffle (well, a couple more things to do to it but has to wait til ducting is 100%).. next tackle is the HVAC 6" runs and duct supports. I'm directly running from the Thien Baffle inlet horizontally across my 2 car garage and branching off 8 6" wye's and 2 4" wye's along the 2"x12" board attached to the wall (which is hiding my horizontal electrical runs).
> Today, I spent time fabricating the 6" supports with the help of my newly arrived Grizzly circle cutter (upto 8" diameter). I'll have to give a review about this product soon as it helped me dial in the exact diameter I was looking for.
> I made 12 supports.


the added benefit for this: my entire 6" main will be running chest high horizontally from Thien Baffle to the wye's, and this will allow me to attach a 8" or 12" running board shelf on top of these hvac support / shelf support brackets. I love dual purpose in a small shop


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Blast Gate rough draft*

I figured, it was best to construct a rough draft 6" blast gate while writing down measurements and keeping parts as templates for the next 10 or 12 blast gates I have to construct.
End result: a functional self cleaning blast gate. I do have to add stoppers before and after the body on the 1/8" hardboard (didnt add in the 1" clearance for that, on my first piece). But it does slide in and out with SOME friction still present (I did add duct tape on top of the hardboard when affixing everything).


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

Holbs said:


> *Blast Gate rough draft*
> 
> I figured, it was best to construct a rough draft 6" blast gate while writing down measurements and keeping parts as templates for the next 10 or 12 blast gates I have to construct.
> End result: a functional self cleaning blast gate. I do have to add stoppers before and after the body on the 1/8" hardboard (didnt add in the 1" clearance for that, on my first piece). But it does slide in and out with SOME friction still present (I did add duct tape on top of the hardboard when affixing everything).


Interesting design. How do you keep the middle piece from coming out?


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Blast Gate rough draft*
> 
> I figured, it was best to construct a rough draft 6" blast gate while writing down measurements and keeping parts as templates for the next 10 or 12 blast gates I have to construct.
> End result: a functional self cleaning blast gate. I do have to add stoppers before and after the body on the 1/8" hardboard (didnt add in the 1" clearance for that, on my first piece). But it does slide in and out with SOME friction still present (I did add duct tape on top of the hardboard when affixing everything).


i'm unsure how much friction is suppose to be there, but there is enough to hold it in place open or closed. I've seen others that slide super smooth with magnets to hold things in place. Unsure if i'm doing it wrong or if doesnt matter. I am using 1/8" hardboard which is super smooth on one surface and highly rough on the opposite side.
and i will be adding beginning and end stops on the next models i fabricate


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## scoobydooo9r (Jan 24, 2008)

Holbs said:


> *Blast Gate rough draft*
> 
> I figured, it was best to construct a rough draft 6" blast gate while writing down measurements and keeping parts as templates for the next 10 or 12 blast gates I have to construct.
> End result: a functional self cleaning blast gate. I do have to add stoppers before and after the body on the 1/8" hardboard (didnt add in the 1" clearance for that, on my first piece). But it does slide in and out with SOME friction still present (I did add duct tape on top of the hardboard when affixing everything).


You mentioned it was "self cleaning", I'm not seeing what you mean by that. I may setup a real DC system in my shop one day, and I don't want to miss out on something that may be good to know. Can you explain how the self cleaning part works? Thanks for sharing an update Holbs, the ducting is looking great so far!


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Blast Gate rough draft*
> 
> I figured, it was best to construct a rough draft 6" blast gate while writing down measurements and keeping parts as templates for the next 10 or 12 blast gates I have to construct.
> End result: a functional self cleaning blast gate. I do have to add stoppers before and after the body on the 1/8" hardboard (didnt add in the 1" clearance for that, on my first piece). But it does slide in and out with SOME friction still present (I did add duct tape on top of the hardboard when affixing everything).


the "self cleaning" title thew me off too until I read the first generation of blast gates were simple pull up gate 4" to open and then push down same gate 4" to close, on a 4" duct which caused debris to accumulate inside the housing. a "self cleaning" pushes all the way thru, so your tab would be 8" effectively pushing debris out every time you engaged the gate.
first generation blast gate:









"self cleaning" blast gate is like mine.


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## scoobydooo9r (Jan 24, 2008)

Holbs said:


> *Blast Gate rough draft*
> 
> I figured, it was best to construct a rough draft 6" blast gate while writing down measurements and keeping parts as templates for the next 10 or 12 blast gates I have to construct.
> End result: a functional self cleaning blast gate. I do have to add stoppers before and after the body on the 1/8" hardboard (didnt add in the 1" clearance for that, on my first piece). But it does slide in and out with SOME friction still present (I did add duct tape on top of the hardboard when affixing everything).


Ahh, that totally makes sense now! Thanks for showing me that, it will come in handy when I do a real DC install.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*how I make 6" HVAC blast gates*

1.) you have your top collar, bottom collar, left side spacer, right side spacer, gate material.








2.) I place and glue 1 spacer in it's place









3.) i temporarily lay in the gate and then glue in the other spacer for a nice tight fit









4.) clamp both spacers down for a number of minutes









5.) sand the rings so no strands of debris interfere with sliding action of gate









6.) put duct tape (or painters tape) on the surface that will point towards the dust collector to give that 0.005" space to ease the gate to slide back and forth









7.) align the top collar and clamp down









8.) drill holes and insert machine screws & nuts (I only did 4, tho may consider doing 6 if 4 is not enough to seal)









9.) whalla. 1 blast gate built. of course, have to cut the circle, bolt the 6" HVAC ducts in, and add stoppers but that will be tomorrow.









I'm unsure if titebond 2 glue alone is a "sealing" action between all material. I could always add silicone to the outside if air leakage becomes an issue.
And an issue arose after doing 8 of these. I should have left the tape on til the end because when I push the 6" duct into place, it bumps up against the gate with no clearance. I'll have to elongate the holes a little to raise the 6" duct up a hair.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Oct 2015 Dust Collection Upgrades*

Upgrading from my Rigid lunchbox planer and 6" rockwell jointer to the beefier Jet 15" planer and Geetech 8" jointer… it came to me that I best beef up my dust collection system. I had existing 6" HVAC ducting as a temporary solution. But I really needed to finalize it (or at least, make it semi-final with the option of future stuff).
Here is my Wynn filters ontop of my Grizzly 3HP DC feeding from my Thein Baffle. For now, this is their homes. Eventually, will need to engineer something different as this does take up valuable floor space. Such as building outside insulated shed or something. But for now….









Then I had to run the 6" ducting around the corner of my 2 car garage. All ducting has 1/8" rivets installed in all junctions, HVAC taped, and HVAC duct sealing. I have 3 sets of drops, 2 each. First set is for table saw, jointer, and planer (since the closest to the Grizzly DC). Next set, 1 is capped for future lathe and the other for misc. Last set (since farthest) is for future needs as well. I slapped in 6"x6"x4" wye's at strategic locations at the drops for future needs as well (such as overhead table saw dust collection). The planer, jointer, and table saw are 5' from the wall. If I need to move then further for working longer pieces of lumber, I'll have to use rubber flex to extend.




































Next up: blast gates, pvc, and heat guns.


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## bearkatwood (Aug 19, 2015)

Holbs said:


> *Oct 2015 Dust Collection Upgrades*
> 
> Upgrading from my Rigid lunchbox planer and 6" rockwell jointer to the beefier Jet 15" planer and Geetech 8" jointer… it came to me that I best beef up my dust collection system. I had existing 6" HVAC ducting as a temporary solution. But I really needed to finalize it (or at least, make it semi-final with the option of future stuff).
> Here is my Wynn filters ontop of my Grizzly 3HP DC feeding from my Thein Baffle. For now, this is their homes. Eventually, will need to engineer something different as this does take up valuable floor space. Such as building outside insulated shed or something. But for now….
> ...


Sawdust doesn't stand a chance, well done.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Oct 2015 Dust Collection Upgrades*
> 
> Upgrading from my Rigid lunchbox planer and 6" rockwell jointer to the beefier Jet 15" planer and Geetech 8" jointer… it came to me that I best beef up my dust collection system. I had existing 6" HVAC ducting as a temporary solution. But I really needed to finalize it (or at least, make it semi-final with the option of future stuff).
> Here is my Wynn filters ontop of my Grizzly 3HP DC feeding from my Thein Baffle. For now, this is their homes. Eventually, will need to engineer something different as this does take up valuable floor space. Such as building outside insulated shed or something. But for now….
> ...


Every little bit helps with that nasty dust.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Oct 2015 Dust Collection Upgrades*
> 
> Upgrading from my Rigid lunchbox planer and 6" rockwell jointer to the beefier Jet 15" planer and Geetech 8" jointer… it came to me that I best beef up my dust collection system. I had existing 6" HVAC ducting as a temporary solution. But I really needed to finalize it (or at least, make it semi-final with the option of future stuff).
> Here is my Wynn filters ontop of my Grizzly 3HP DC feeding from my Thein Baffle. For now, this is their homes. Eventually, will need to engineer something different as this does take up valuable floor space. Such as building outside insulated shed or something. But for now….
> ...





> Sawdust doesn t stand a chance, well done.
> 
> - bearkatwood


*Yeah, What he said ! *


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## WoodNSawdust (Mar 7, 2015)

Holbs said:


> *Oct 2015 Dust Collection Upgrades*
> 
> Upgrading from my Rigid lunchbox planer and 6" rockwell jointer to the beefier Jet 15" planer and Geetech 8" jointer… it came to me that I best beef up my dust collection system. I had existing 6" HVAC ducting as a temporary solution. But I really needed to finalize it (or at least, make it semi-final with the option of future stuff).
> Here is my Wynn filters ontop of my Grizzly 3HP DC feeding from my Thein Baffle. For now, this is their homes. Eventually, will need to engineer something different as this does take up valuable floor space. Such as building outside insulated shed or something. But for now….
> ...


I am thinking of running 6" duct around my shop. Do you have any idea how much loss of cfm or static pressure at the farthest point?


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Oct 2015 Dust Collection Upgrades*
> 
> Upgrading from my Rigid lunchbox planer and 6" rockwell jointer to the beefier Jet 15" planer and Geetech 8" jointer… it came to me that I best beef up my dust collection system. I had existing 6" HVAC ducting as a temporary solution. But I really needed to finalize it (or at least, make it semi-final with the option of future stuff).
> Here is my Wynn filters ontop of my Grizzly 3HP DC feeding from my Thein Baffle. For now, this is their homes. Eventually, will need to engineer something different as this does take up valuable floor space. Such as building outside insulated shed or something. But for now….
> ...


what size is your dust collector?
what is the footage of your main run?
how many branches/drops?
I am not concerned about loss of cfm or static pressure at the end, knowing full well they will be considerably less than compared to being near the dust collector. Hence, my major chip & dust making machines will be close (less than 20' of 6" duct) to my Grizzly 3HP DC. I could of done mathematical computations, but I simply went common sense route. I could of also installed blast gates at the beginning of the drops themselves or ever 10' of the main, but… eh, gotta draw the line somewhere.


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## bkseitz (Oct 24, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Oct 2015 Dust Collection Upgrades*
> 
> Upgrading from my Rigid lunchbox planer and 6" rockwell jointer to the beefier Jet 15" planer and Geetech 8" jointer… it came to me that I best beef up my dust collection system. I had existing 6" HVAC ducting as a temporary solution. But I really needed to finalize it (or at least, make it semi-final with the option of future stuff).
> Here is my Wynn filters ontop of my Grizzly 3HP DC feeding from my Thein Baffle. For now, this is their homes. Eventually, will need to engineer something different as this does take up valuable floor space. Such as building outside insulated shed or something. But for now….
> ...


Looks great. Considering going with a HF 2hp and a Super Dust Deputy this first go around instead of a Thein Baffle. Do you think the Grizzly was worth the added expense? Figured if I need more suction I could upgrade the blower system later-my shop is all 110, so its the DC and the circuit upgrade cost. Hoping to get away with the HF, SDD, and 6" ducting this go around. In either event it will be an advance to my Rigid 1hp DC


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Oct 2015 Dust Collection Upgrades*
> 
> Upgrading from my Rigid lunchbox planer and 6" rockwell jointer to the beefier Jet 15" planer and Geetech 8" jointer… it came to me that I best beef up my dust collection system. I had existing 6" HVAC ducting as a temporary solution. But I really needed to finalize it (or at least, make it semi-final with the option of future stuff).
> Here is my Wynn filters ontop of my Grizzly 3HP DC feeding from my Thein Baffle. For now, this is their homes. Eventually, will need to engineer something different as this does take up valuable floor space. Such as building outside insulated shed or something. But for now….
> ...


I do not believe (you will have to research this, yourself) that 6" ducting on a HF DC works. The CFM is too low for that diameter of duct. The SDD is $169+. My Thein was under $50 to build and was fun. But it did take time to make.
My Grizzly is a 3HP model, purchased off Craigslist for $200 or $250 (I forget). It was worth the expense. But then, you have to add cost of PVC or HVAC ducting, wye's, blast gates, etc.
My shop was initially 110v as well… a single 110v and single light bulb. It was another fun DIY project I did alone to upgrade that stuff. Now, I have 8×110v, 3×220v's, T8 strip lighting, and a Reznor 60k BTU heater.

Was it all worth the added expense? Yes. I look back to the time when I had a single 110v 15amp outlet and single bulb with a kerosene torpedo heater and work lights. Yes… it was worth the $$$ and time.


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## bkseitz (Oct 24, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Oct 2015 Dust Collection Upgrades*
> 
> Upgrading from my Rigid lunchbox planer and 6" rockwell jointer to the beefier Jet 15" planer and Geetech 8" jointer… it came to me that I best beef up my dust collection system. I had existing 6" HVAC ducting as a temporary solution. But I really needed to finalize it (or at least, make it semi-final with the option of future stuff).
> Here is my Wynn filters ontop of my Grizzly 3HP DC feeding from my Thein Baffle. For now, this is their homes. Eventually, will need to engineer something different as this does take up valuable floor space. Such as building outside insulated shed or something. But for now….
> ...


Already have the Super Dust Deputy, the electrical: I've a 60amp subpanel but didn't intend to add a 220v circuit unless I absolutely needed to. I've two circuits for two rows of T8 lights, one circuit for stationary machines, two circuits for misc and overhead power, two circuits for overhead ceramic heaters in strategic spots-though in cold weather I'm using a propane barn heater (till I get a wood stove) to get it to tolerable temperatures, and lastly one 15amp 110v circuit double switch wired for a DC (previously using a Ridgid 1HP DC with 4" flex tubing everywhere-not very effective with the TS).

Some of the other SDD+HF projects I've seen have used 6" and 6"+4" ducting with claims of good results. Steve Emmons's video uses a Delta 50-850 about the same as HF in his setup. So it become more a matter of whether a 2HP or 3HP DC is more C/B for the system I'm building. The 3HP DCs I see are more than 2X-3x the price of a HF 2HP unit. I was hoping to get away cheaper but if a 3HP is really what the job call for I'll have to bit the bullet -thx


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Oct 2015 Dust Collection Upgrades*
> 
> Upgrading from my Rigid lunchbox planer and 6" rockwell jointer to the beefier Jet 15" planer and Geetech 8" jointer… it came to me that I best beef up my dust collection system. I had existing 6" HVAC ducting as a temporary solution. But I really needed to finalize it (or at least, make it semi-final with the option of future stuff).
> Here is my Wynn filters ontop of my Grizzly 3HP DC feeding from my Thein Baffle. For now, this is their homes. Eventually, will need to engineer something different as this does take up valuable floor space. Such as building outside insulated shed or something. But for now….
> ...


We all have to start somewhere  I had a single outlet, single bulb, torpedo heater, shop lights on stands, and a shop vac. Takes time to upgrade here and there. Didn't happen over night. If not for snagging this Grizzly 3HP, I would of definitely went the HF & modification route. I will say this: check your local auctions. I see 1.5 to 3HP dust collectors all the time for less than $200.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*6" DIY Blast Gates Version 2*

My Version 1 blast gates were… functional but with a structural design flaw. Whenever I placed torque on the blast gate for any reason (hanging downwards of spiral 6" hose or bumping a machine into it while moving machine around, etc), the HVAC sheet metal sometimes compressed against the sliding 1/8" hardboard. I should never of cut out a U shaped notch for the bolts, but instead drilled dedicated holes. Plus, the blast gate structure stuck out waaaay too far. Lessons learned. So I went about looking to run another set of blast gates. I took cue from Jay Bates at Custom Creations youtube video and that's what I'll try in this version 2. I need to make 12 6" blast gates and 6 4" blast gates. I'm 1/2 done with the 6". I have never worked with construction glue before and was surprised at it's strength. Instead of using blue tape like Jay does to seal the other side of the blast gate, I will be using spring hinges that I picked up at an online auction though I only have 10 hinges. I made a quick table saw 6" pvc duct cutting jig that worked out great. Next, assembly of blast gates. But first, looking into ways to keep the slider open when I want it to, closed when I want it to. Somewhere, I saw a video or LJ project about ball bearings and compression spring….


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## English (May 10, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *6" DIY Blast Gates Version 2*
> 
> My Version 1 blast gates were… functional but with a structural design flaw. Whenever I placed torque on the blast gate for any reason (hanging downwards of spiral 6" hose or bumping a machine into it while moving machine around, etc), the HVAC sheet metal sometimes compressed against the sliding 1/8" hardboard. I should never of cut out a U shaped notch for the bolts, but instead drilled dedicated holes. Plus, the blast gate structure stuck out waaaay too far. Lessons learned. So I went about looking to run another set of blast gates. I took cue from Jay Bates at Custom Creations youtube video and that's what I'll try in this version 2. I need to make 12 6" blast gates and 6 4" blast gates. I'm 1/2 done with the 6". I have never worked with construction glue before and was surprised at it's strength. Instead of using blue tape like Jay does to seal the other side of the blast gate, I will be using spring hinges that I picked up at an online auction though I only have 10 hinges. I made a quick table saw 6" pvc duct cutting jig that worked out great. Next, assembly of blast gates. But first, looking into ways to keep the slider open when I want it to, closed when I want it to. Somewhere, I saw a video or LJ project about ball bearings and compression spring….


Great looking Gates, 6" gate are hard to find, making your own is the best way to go.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Another saturday, working more on 6" blast gates..almost there*

12 6" blast gates. Things nut & bolted together, tighten to make slider snug yet loose. Added detent with ball bearing and spring for open & close. Added spring latch for dust/chipping escape when slider is closed. Next, covering detent spring, re-adjusting entire 6" HVAC to add in these blast gates through the main line and at the ends.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Another saturday, working more on 6" blast gates..almost there*
> 
> 12 6" blast gates. Things nut & bolted together, tighten to make slider snug yet loose. Added detent with ball bearing and spring for open & close. Added spring latch for dust/chipping escape when slider is closed. Next, covering detent spring, re-adjusting entire 6" HVAC to add in these blast gates through the main line and at the ends.


6" ID or OD? The walls look 1/4" thick & 6" *ID* means your hose/duct is 6-1/2"? Or is the pipe 5-1/2" ID?

M


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Another saturday, working more on 6" blast gates..almost there*
> 
> 12 6" blast gates. Things nut & bolted together, tighten to make slider snug yet loose. Added detent with ball bearing and spring for open & close. Added spring latch for dust/chipping escape when slider is closed. Next, covering detent spring, re-adjusting entire 6" HVAC to add in these blast gates through the main line and at the ends.


It looks like SDR35 pipe which has a spec of 6.275" OD average and wall thickness of 0.180". So I guess ID is about 5.915" 
.
This is what I am using for dust collection.

The gates are looking good.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Another saturday, working more on 6" blast gates..almost there*
> 
> 12 6" blast gates. Things nut & bolted together, tighten to make slider snug yet loose. Added detent with ball bearing and spring for open & close. Added spring latch for dust/chipping escape when slider is closed. Next, covering detent spring, re-adjusting entire 6" HVAC to add in these blast gates through the main line and at the ends.


Yes. Sewer & Drain PVC 6" pipe. The inside & outside diameter makes no difference as I plan to use a heat gun upon the PVC to mold it onto my 6" HVAC ducting


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Building overhead blast gates*

Weeeee….the joy. More dust collection stories! When had to install drywall on my ceiling, I had to remove the 6" HVAC ducting. Now it is time to re-install. But first, some modifications: overhead blast gates at strategic spots. Also, have to move the ducting 12-14" away from the wall to make room for these blast gates. Going to use jack chain and single hole lag bolts (the kind you see in office space ceilings to hold up the drop ceiling tie-wires).


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## hnau (Nov 30, 2016)

Holbs said:


> *Building overhead blast gates*
> 
> Weeeee….the joy. More dust collection stories! When had to install drywall on my ceiling, I had to remove the 6" HVAC ducting. Now it is time to re-install. But first, some modifications: overhead blast gates at strategic spots. Also, have to move the ducting 12-14" away from the wall to make room for these blast gates. Going to use jack chain and single hole lag bolts (the kind you see in office space ceilings to hold up the drop ceiling tie-wires).


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Building overhead blast gates*
> 
> Weeeee….the joy. More dust collection stories! When had to install drywall on my ceiling, I had to remove the 6" HVAC ducting. Now it is time to re-install. But first, some modifications: overhead blast gates at strategic spots. Also, have to move the ducting 12-14" away from the wall to make room for these blast gates. Going to use jack chain and single hole lag bolts (the kind you see in office space ceilings to hold up the drop ceiling tie-wires).


I like your design of the blast gates


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## bhuvi (Dec 1, 2016)

Holbs said:


> *Building overhead blast gates*
> 
> Weeeee….the joy. More dust collection stories! When had to install drywall on my ceiling, I had to remove the 6" HVAC ducting. Now it is time to re-install. But first, some modifications: overhead blast gates at strategic spots. Also, have to move the ducting 12-14" away from the wall to make room for these blast gates. Going to use jack chain and single hole lag bolts (the kind you see in office space ceilings to hold up the drop ceiling tie-wires).


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Working on more blast gates....*

Today I worked on my 10 existing 6" blast gates. They originally had an opening the same diameter of S&W green PVC drain pipe which I affixed to the wood via construction glue. It did not pan out too well. I needed them to be 1/8" or little more of an opening to receive 6" HVAC duct. So had to disassemble all 10 gates and route the opening larger. 
Helpful hint for anyone working on HVAC latch duct: sure, you can use the hand cutters and pay for it in blood droplets like the picture below (unless you actually know how to use these things!), or mark your lines around the pipe using a circular jig I made to hold both ends closed while middle jig moves every 4 " for me to draw lines. Flatten out the duct and brace both sides of the line for the jig saw. Near perfection of a cut with no jagged edges or fatal pokey tabs thingies. I used these 4" pieces one each side of the blast gate. I have a hand crimper to make the female ends. I also used a air nailer to put in 8 nails to hold these pieces in.


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## hnau (Nov 30, 2016)

Holbs said:


> *Working on more blast gates....*
> 
> Today I worked on my 10 existing 6" blast gates. They originally had an opening the same diameter of S&W green PVC drain pipe which I affixed to the wood via construction glue. It did not pan out too well. I needed them to be 1/8" or little more of an opening to receive 6" HVAC duct. So had to disassemble all 10 gates and route the opening larger.
> Helpful hint for anyone working on HVAC latch duct: sure, you can use the hand cutters and pay for it in blood droplets like the picture below (unless you actually know how to use these things!), or mark your lines around the pipe using a circular jig I made to hold both ends closed while middle jig moves every 4 " for me to draw lines. Flatten out the duct and brace both sides of the line for the jig saw. Near perfection of a cut with no jagged edges or fatal pokey tabs thingies. I used these 4" pieces one each side of the blast gate. I have a hand crimper to make the female ends. I also used a air nailer to put in 8 nails to hold these pieces in.


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## bhuvi (Dec 1, 2016)

Holbs said:


> *Working on more blast gates....*
> 
> Today I worked on my 10 existing 6" blast gates. They originally had an opening the same diameter of S&W green PVC drain pipe which I affixed to the wood via construction glue. It did not pan out too well. I needed them to be 1/8" or little more of an opening to receive 6" HVAC duct. So had to disassemble all 10 gates and route the opening larger.
> Helpful hint for anyone working on HVAC latch duct: sure, you can use the hand cutters and pay for it in blood droplets like the picture below (unless you actually know how to use these things!), or mark your lines around the pipe using a circular jig I made to hold both ends closed while middle jig moves every 4 " for me to draw lines. Flatten out the duct and brace both sides of the line for the jig saw. Near perfection of a cut with no jagged edges or fatal pokey tabs thingies. I used these 4" pieces one each side of the blast gate. I have a hand crimper to make the female ends. I also used a air nailer to put in 8 nails to hold these pieces in.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*overhead blast gates installed and affixed new & improved blast gate to wall*

Installed 4 overhead blast gates which meant I had to re-design the original ducting as the main line run has to be 10"-16" away from wall instead of butt up against wall to give space for the internal manifold (?) swing for open & closed.
Also screwed to the wall my version 3? 4? blast gate. Has a rubber banded back end to eject dust & debris when fully closed (at least, I hope!). Air gunned 8 nails per side to firmly hold the 6" HVAC 4" piece into the wood.
Satisfied with the first drop, I have 4 more to go…


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *overhead blast gates installed and affixed new & improved blast gate to wall*
> 
> Installed 4 overhead blast gates which meant I had to re-design the original ducting as the main line run has to be 10"-16" away from wall instead of butt up against wall to give space for the internal manifold (?) swing for open & closed.
> Also screwed to the wall my version 3? 4? blast gate. Has a rubber banded back end to eject dust & debris when fully closed (at least, I hope!). Air gunned 8 nails per side to firmly hold the 6" HVAC 4" piece into the wood.
> Satisfied with the first drop, I have 4 more to go…


Nice fabrication for overhead gates


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Overhead dust collection: complete*

I posted my overhead blast gates on the project page. This Saturday, I finished the secondary run of duct for 2 more drops: one near my future lathe station and because I had left over spare duct pieces, went ahead and made a drop near middle of the shop with a blast gate 7' off the floor for any mobile carts in the future. Figured, since I had spare, might as well put something in the middle as I did my electrical outlet at ceiling middle for a 20' extension cord reel that is almost my primary electrical outlet. This completes my overhead dust collection. And I'm glad I went through the trouble of making things done right. Next up after the holidays maybe: table saw overhead boom arm dust collection.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*This is why I installed 6"x4"x6" wye's....*

When it came to to re-engineer my dust collection system, I knew from experience that I will be getting into overhead dust collection. Tis why I installed overhead blast gates and these 6"x4"x6" wye's. I'll have 6" to 4" adapter for under the cabinet and 4" to my incoming Shark Guard with 4" dust collection fitting (should arrive Tuesday thanks to Lee!). I looked ahead and researched Bill Pentz and other places about ideas for dust collection. I still have to make 4" blast gates and fit them, but that is no problem after all the 6" gates I've made. A note: I am using 28 gauge HD 4" HVAC ducting due to it being much much lighter than 26 gauge. I made sure the 4" is 6" above my head when I walk under I also have the 4" overhead duct 8" to the left above the blade. You never know…. and doesn't hurt at all to be safe.
















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I am using eye lag bolts through out my ceiling mounting and 12 gauge jack chain.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *This is why I installed 6"x4"x6" wye's....*
> 
> When it came to to re-engineer my dust collection system, I knew from experience that I will be getting into overhead dust collection. Tis why I installed overhead blast gates and these 6"x4"x6" wye's. I'll have 6" to 4" adapter for under the cabinet and 4" to my incoming Shark Guard with 4" dust collection fitting (should arrive Tuesday thanks to Lee!). I looked ahead and researched Bill Pentz and other places about ideas for dust collection. I still have to make 4" blast gates and fit them, but that is no problem after all the 6" gates I've made. A note: I am using 28 gauge HD 4" HVAC ducting due to it being much much lighter than 26 gauge. I made sure the 4" is 6" above my head when I walk under I also have the 4" overhead duct 8" to the left above the blade. You never know…. and doesn't hurt at all to be safe.
> 
> ...


Some good work on your ducting. I like the eye lag bolts and wondered where you got them.

When I installed mine I debated myself about 8" ducting for the main trunk but went with 6" because I worried that I would have too slow air speed especially when using a 4" dust port on a machine. Do you have any worry about air speed in the 8" duct and having dust settle out.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *This is why I installed 6"x4"x6" wye's....*
> 
> When it came to to re-engineer my dust collection system, I knew from experience that I will be getting into overhead dust collection. Tis why I installed overhead blast gates and these 6"x4"x6" wye's. I'll have 6" to 4" adapter for under the cabinet and 4" to my incoming Shark Guard with 4" dust collection fitting (should arrive Tuesday thanks to Lee!). I looked ahead and researched Bill Pentz and other places about ideas for dust collection. I still have to make 4" blast gates and fit them, but that is no problem after all the 6" gates I've made. A note: I am using 28 gauge HD 4" HVAC ducting due to it being much much lighter than 26 gauge. I made sure the 4" is 6" above my head when I walk under I also have the 4" overhead duct 8" to the left above the blade. You never know…. and doesn't hurt at all to be safe.
> 
> ...


Looking good. I too have been torn between using 6" or 4" throughout the shop.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *This is why I installed 6"x4"x6" wye's....*
> 
> When it came to to re-engineer my dust collection system, I knew from experience that I will be getting into overhead dust collection. Tis why I installed overhead blast gates and these 6"x4"x6" wye's. I'll have 6" to 4" adapter for under the cabinet and 4" to my incoming Shark Guard with 4" dust collection fitting (should arrive Tuesday thanks to Lee!). I looked ahead and researched Bill Pentz and other places about ideas for dust collection. I still have to make 4" blast gates and fit them, but that is no problem after all the 6" gates I've made. A note: I am using 28 gauge HD 4" HVAC ducting due to it being much much lighter than 26 gauge. I made sure the 4" is 6" above my head when I walk under I also have the 4" overhead duct 8" to the left above the blade. You never know…. and doesn't hurt at all to be safe.
> 
> ...


Red.. I have a 3HP Grizzly DC. 6" would be my norm, 8" would not work. If I had a 1.5HP, I would really have to dig down the research of putting up 6" or 4" ducting. From everything I read, 4" would be the way to go. But then there are people that say everything is fine using 6". Be as it may, I have no worries at all using 6".
As to my eye lag bolts: I came across a box of these things left behind at a job site. 1,000 in a box  These are mostly used to hang ceiling grid wire for drop ceiling in office spaces, which can be found at Amazon or Grainger or somewhere.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Added 4" branch runs and other stuff*

I did my main runs with 6" HVAC pipe, multiple blast gates, hung via jack chain. Took alot out of my wallet. Today, I went to town on the branch runs that will feed overhead stuff such as router table fence, tracksaw, palm sander, utility hose. I picked up some SDR and Polypipe last week to compare the two. Even though Polypipe was 0.98 per foot, folks said because of the internal ribbing action, it may cause a loss of CFM. I went ahead and used both SDR and Polypipe here because they will feed 2.5" and 1.5" hoses. I wouldn't use if intention was upon other 4" branches/hoses. I also did some trial runs on my miter saw and 6" flex. 100% results at 90degree and 45 degree cuts, except some minor debris from underneath. Posted in general forum to see if there is an answer. Also did a quickie floor sweep with some flex. Undecided to keep it as flex or solid pipe as sometimes I may need to move it off the floor or left/right.
Next, buying the 2.5" and 1.5" hoses but that will be later.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Added 4" branch runs and other stuff*
> 
> I did my main runs with 6" HVAC pipe, multiple blast gates, hung via jack chain. Took alot out of my wallet. Today, I went to town on the branch runs that will feed overhead stuff such as router table fence, tracksaw, palm sander, utility hose. I picked up some SDR and Polypipe last week to compare the two. Even though Polypipe was 0.98 per foot, folks said because of the internal ribbing action, it may cause a loss of CFM. I went ahead and used both SDR and Polypipe here because they will feed 2.5" and 1.5" hoses. I wouldn't use if intention was upon other 4" branches/hoses. I also did some trial runs on my miter saw and 6" flex. 100% results at 90degree and 45 degree cuts, except some minor debris from underneath. Posted in general forum to see if there is an answer. Also did a quickie floor sweep with some flex. Undecided to keep it as flex or solid pipe as sometimes I may need to move it off the floor or left/right.
> Next, buying the 2.5" and 1.5" hoses but that will be later.


I feel anything and everything we can do to collect dust is always a plus. Our lungs will thank us for doing so.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Finalizing dust collection for hand tools, router table, bandsaw, drill press.*

I finally got around to finishing dust collection for my track saw, router table, hand sanders, drill press, bandsaw. Lots of heat gun activity on a hair too small or too big PVC fittings. The bandsaw..hmm. I've seen many dust collection applications but I wanted something simple. I followed suit from my miter saw dust collection of simply using a cut up 6" wire flex hose with bungee cords. Ran some tests and no debris in the lower wheel cavity.
Lots of dust collection ports under my two table saws for downdraft table, PM66, Unisaw, and Benchdog router. Again, I went stupid simple and used a 5 gallon bucket with 4" port snug fit under the router table using bungee cords. It works but it isn't pretty  One day, I may come back and do something but for now, it works


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Finalizing dust collection for hand tools, router table, bandsaw, drill press.*
> 
> I finally got around to finishing dust collection for my track saw, router table, hand sanders, drill press, bandsaw. Lots of heat gun activity on a hair too small or too big PVC fittings. The bandsaw..hmm. I've seen many dust collection applications but I wanted something simple. I followed suit from my miter saw dust collection of simply using a cut up 6" wire flex hose with bungee cords. Ran some tests and no debris in the lower wheel cavity.
> Lots of dust collection ports under my two table saws for downdraft table, PM66, Unisaw, and Benchdog router. Again, I went stupid simple and used a 5 gallon bucket with 4" port snug fit under the router table using bungee cords. It works but it isn't pretty  One day, I may come back and do something but for now, it works


Lookin good. That dc has one job, and that's to eat dust, so, let it be done. haha


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Upgrading to Super Dust Deputy XL: finding a home*

In the search of finding even more real estate in my 2 car garage workshop and DC efficiency… I am saying goodbye to my wonderful Thein Baffle tophat that has served me well for almost 5 years. For a economical DIY separator, you can not beat it. However, it's time to upgrade. 
What I did not like about my setup:
1.) way too much real estate was taken up. 55 gallon plastic barrels are great, but they are a good 4-5" wider than metal drums. The dual arm 3 HP Grizzly DC basically takes up double the real estate that it truly needed. I had to set the barrel to the side of the DC taking up even more space. Picture below:









2.) Because I experimented with a 16" tall top hat instead of the usual 6-8" (I did the 16" to see if was more better at separation), that meant much more volume of air inside the chamber to move around, lowering my CFM efficiency greatly (I would guess…35-45%).
3.) The Thein Baffle did fantastic for all machinery (bandsaw, jointer, table saw, downdraft table, etc). But when it came to the 15" planer, the baffle almost hit it's max of being overloaded. Plus, due to the engineering aspect of the baffle, large chips liked to gather into a mound of blockage at the end of the cut out slit.
4.) I made the Thein Baffle out of MDF, which in turn made the structure heavy. If I were to do again, I would go with basswood due to being much lighter. I always planned on doing a Version II but Version I worked so well, I didn't bother.

I ordered the SDD XL off amazon due to the free 2 day shipping.
Bought a refurbished metal 55 gallon drum with latching plastic lid.
Tore apart my Grizzly DC down to the blower assembly. Took the Grizzly exhaust arm to a local HVAC shop and they will be making me an exact measured rectangle to 6" round adaptor for $30 with 26 gauge. Other retail places would be selling square to round adaptor for double or even triple that price.

I know I'll have the DC system in the corner again. Took apart the slats in the above shelving. What do you know? The cantilevered arms lag bolted (thank you, Matthias Wandel for that inspiration to shelving) to the wall that were for shelving are actually exactly what is needed for the DC and SDD! Not sure how that came to be. I did hang from one arm (my body weight is around 220lbs). It flexed a tad, but not biggy as I'll be using 2 arms and the DC motor will be bolted to the side wall for additional safety.
Top arms will hold the DC motor. Lower arms will hold SDD. To the right, the arms will hold supporting structure for the 2 Wynn nano-filters. Kinda amazing how that all came out.


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