# R4512 Table Saw Assembly tip - Lubrication / Table Cleaning



## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

Grease under a table saw is not a good idea as it accumulates dust where you do not want it.
You are better off leaving everything dry.
It may cause you problems later on.
If anything use a dry lubricant like drymoly.


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

Yep. Grease is a bad idea. I use motorcycle chain lube (drylube).

Did you check this saw for blade alignment? These saws are famous for becoming misaligned when you raise/lower the blade.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

Grease not good idea in this area. It will collect sawdust and chips and cause difficulty turning the gears/shafts down the road, and may accumulate at the 45* and 90* stops , throwing your adjustments off.


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## ic3ss (Oct 19, 2010)

Way back when I rode off road motorcycles, I used to use this spray on chain lube that was wax based, the idea being that dirt would not stick to it. Find it at any motorcycle shop. My suggestion though is to clean off your new grease and leave it. Let the sawdust provide some lube. I left my Unisaw trunions and crank screws all dry after I rebuilt it a few years ago with no issues.

Wayne


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## ic3ss (Oct 19, 2010)

Ok, I just read Tedster's post. Yep, dry lube is the stuff. If you have to put something on it I would try that. But unless it's making noise I still would leave it dry.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

I use dry molikote a graphite based lubricant, very good

Product Name:
Dow Corning Molykote D-321 R Dry Film Lubricant Black 312 g Aerosol
Part#:
D-321 R LUBE SPRY 312G CAN
Description:
Dow Corning Molykote D 321 R Anti-friction Coating is an air-curing dry lubricant with high ageing resistance. For metal/metal combinations with slow to medium fast movements and high loads. Improving the running-in process and for lubrication under high vacuum and at extreme temperatures. 312 g Aerosol.


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## garbonsai (Jan 17, 2013)

I'll second the wax-based chain lubricant. You can pick it up at almost any bike (bicycle) shop-"White Lightning" is probably the most popular brand. In any event, you squirt it on, the carrier evaporates (rather quickly-10 to 15 minutes should do it) and leaves wax behind. Same principle as using a candle on a door hinge, except the liquid gets into all the nooks and crannies. I used it when I tore my Craftsman apart and removed twenty-five odd years of dust and pitch. Now, two years later, and it still raises and lowers and tilts like a dream.


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## Grumpymike (Jan 23, 2012)

+1 on the dry lube … also available in a spray can is the RV slide dry lube … look in the RV section at Wally World.
Used it about four years ago on mine, still working smoothly.


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## todd1962 (Oct 23, 2013)

Make sure when you raise the blade on this saw you back off a little else the blade will be misaligned. Other than that I have had no problems with this saw. I have had it a few months and double check my alignment occasionally. No problems.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

"Make sure when you raise the blade on this saw you back off a little else the blade will be misaligned"

This statement makes no sense at all. There are issues with some of these saws, but it cannot be fixed. When attempting to raise or lower the blade, it will come out of alignment. You don't even need to turn the scews - just a little pressure on the adjustment wheel will trigger it.

To check for this, clamp a straight edge very close to but not touching the gullet (flat part) of the blade toward the front. Loosen the adjustment lock and attempt to raise or lower the blade. If it moves toward or away from your straight edge, you have a $500.00 cast iron workbench that is great for sharpening chisels/irons as well as a nice flat surface for your parallel clamps. If it doesn't move, you have a decent contractor saw.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

I agree dry parts, grease will make more issues that you can think of, or want to


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## todd1962 (Oct 23, 2013)

Joe, I'll agree that there are saws with the fatal flaw. My saw cuts great, however. I have a digital caliper and I can tell you when I raise the blade it moves slightly out of alignment. If I back off a little it returns to normal, so it makes sense to me. Sorry if it doesn't make sense to you.


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## Armandhammer (Dec 12, 2013)

Will Ridgid cover the saw if it has the issue? Anyone know how often this issues occurs? Is it something that's there from day one or does it happen over time with use? I assume the saw is not assembled in the box enough to test it prior to walking out of the store?


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## rg33 (Dec 1, 2012)

Another satisfied customer of the R4512 here. Have had mine for over a year and have made all sorts of cuts with the blade up/down and random angles and no problems so far. The comments from above are likely from people who've gotten duds I think. Like any other saw out there its important to spend time during assembly to make sure everything is lined up correctly. I spent several hours getting mine assembled and lined up (its trunions are mounted on the tabletop so it takes a bit more time) but once I got it setup correctly (less than .002" parallel to fence etc) all was good…


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## todd1962 (Oct 23, 2013)

rg33, I have had no problems either. I tested arbor runout and it was fine. I got my blade aligned within 0.001 and the fence to 0.003. I've had no problems with straight cuts, burning or anything. Of course, I replaced the blade with a nice Freud.


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## Jokker78 (Oct 2, 2013)

I have the same saw with the craftsmen paint job. The only thing bad I can 
Say about it, is that the fence SUCKS. I have produced a lot of saw dust with mine.
I just bought the saw stop fence for mine. I will let you know how it works.


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