# Advice on Richard Maguire's "Little John" Workbench design?



## andre_p (Mar 7, 2016)

I've recently become enamored with Richard Maguire's (aka The English Woodworker) Little John Workbench and am seeking advice on building something similar. I think it makes great use of space and would fit well in my small city shop.

A link to Richard's blog post about the bench.

Some photos of the bench, from the blog post.


















Unfortunately Richard didn't share much about he built it, thus this post seeking advice. A few things I'm curious about (given the paucity of info I know a lot of this will be guesswork)

- What are the potential major difficulties in building a project like this?
- What sort of joints should I use?
- What purpose do the bolts on the left and right side of the top serve?
- Is the workbench top laminated? 
- What sort of wood was used to build the pictured version?
- Are there any changes that I could/should make to make the build simpler?

Finally, how do people feel about copying someone else's design for personal use? My feeling is that it's okay since I'm not selling it, and will likely make some changes to it as I build, but I'd like to hear others' thoughts. I did contact Richard offering to buy plans if they were available, but didn't hear back.


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## dyfhid (Jun 4, 2015)

There are plans for a very similar bench in the Hayward How To book linked here - http://toolemera.com/bkpdf/haywardhowtobk.pdf

There's also Roy Underhill's version in which he uses sliding dovetails to make the leg to bench joints, viewable here - (Part 1) http://www.pbs.org/video/2365015322/ and here (Part 2) http://www.pbs.org/video/2365015323/

- What are the potential major difficulties in building a project like this?

Losing patience, time, blood, sweat, tears and money  Honestly, there are really no major difficulties, just work methodically, one part at a time, and do your best.

- What sort of joints should I use?

For the leg to top? Hayward shows a flat top leg with aprons for stability. Underhill uses the aforementioned sliding dovetail and angled mortise and tenon. You could also use bolts, there is no set rule. For the legs to stretchers, again, you have choices. Note that Maguire uses bolts, probably augmented by short tenons in mortises. Hayward also suggests bolts, or wedged tenons. Benchcrafted sells some nice bolts for use in bench building. http://benchcrafted.com/Benchbuilding.html

- What purpose do the bolts on the left and right side of the top serve?

They bolt the end caps to the top. If you look closely, you'll also see what looks to be about a half inch by half inch tenon that presumably runs the width of the top, this, like a breadboard end, should help keep the top flat.

- Is the workbench top laminated?

It looks like it. Helen states in the blog post that the top is 68mm thick, or 2 5/8 roughly. From that, just looking at the photos, it looks like there are three boards that thick and 3-4 inches wide glued together to make up the top.

- What sort of wood was used to build the pictured version?

That's a tough one It looks like it could be any of English Oak, White Ash, Beech or something else entirely.

Unless you are trying to match it exactly, I wouldn't worry about it. Use whatever is available in your area. All the sources listed above, though, advise using something stout and hard. That could be anything from Southern Yellow Pine through Hard Maple, and many others. Again, use what is cheap and available in your area that meets the criteria of stout and hard.

- Are there any changes that I could/should make to make the build simpler?

I think you'll find that this is really not as complicated build, just don't over think it. It's about a 1×5 foot top with two foot long boards bolted to the ends, with another five foot board attached to the back ends of those to make the tool tray frame, and a board screwed or glued or nailed or any combination of these to its bottom to make a tool tray. Rabbet the top so you can put in covers like Richard has to make a wider flat surface. Knock together your legs and stretchers, attach the top to them the best way you know how, and you have a bench. You could, of course, make it really complicated, with Houndstooth dovetails in the end caps and contrasting wood and whatnot, but you don't need to. Just make it strong.

Just tuck in and start building, you can do this! And, we're here to help along the way, if you get stuck, just post here. As you found on your slab workbench post, we're a helpful bunch


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## andre_p (Mar 7, 2016)

David - thanks you so much for both the comprehensive response and encouragement! I've reviewed the two sources you mentioned and both were helpful; I feel a lot more comfortable tackling the project now.

At this point I think my only outstanding question is choice of wood. Out here in California Douglas Fir seems to be the choice given it's availability, but I'm not a huge fan of its appearance (and I'm kind of picky on that front). Right now I'm experimenting with what HD calls "Kiln Dried Whitewood", but I may end up splurging on some hardwood.

Thanks again, and I'll likely be back for more advice as the project progresses


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## bearkatwood (Aug 19, 2015)

He has a series that shows you how to make his english bench that is Nicholson-ish
The English Workbench
Also here is a bench that I found on sketchup that is close.
workbench
Hope that helps.


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## WirelessWoodworker (Dec 17, 2014)

Hey Andre,

You could always ask him questions directly along the way too. Seems like a great guy and passionate about workbenches, so I wouldn't hesitate to send him a message! He probably has lots of little tidbits he could share relatively quickly with you.

Cheers,


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## Twoodyard (Oct 20, 2017)

Do we think there is a mortise and tenon or some sort of locating dowel to mate the leg to top, or just a butt joint and lag bolt?


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## BlasterStumps (Mar 13, 2017)

I think either the mortise and tenon or dowel would work. I built a version of the bench with the mortice and tenon but if I remake it I am going to simply use locating dowels and then some lags to keep the top on should I attempt to lift up on the top for any reason.


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## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

*- What are the potential major difficulties in building a project like this?*
That will depend on your current skill level really. Judging by my own current skill level the M&T joint for the angled back legs would give me several headaches.

*- What sort of joints should I use?*
The top looks to be lag bolted to the legs. The stretchers I would assume are pinned mortise and tenon. Altho the front stretcher looks to be bolted from the end. Not sure why on that one.

*- What purpose do the bolts on the left and right side of the top serve?*
My best guess is keeping the bread board ends in place. They probably aren't glued on and I would guess the BB end itself has a hole slightly larger than the lag bolt to allow for wood movement.

*- Is the workbench top laminated?*
Yes. Looks like it maybe started from 3 4×6s milled down. I made my bench from laminated 2×6s so you have options there.

*- What sort of wood was used to build the pictured version?*
I don't know what species it is but judging by grain patterns it looks like construction grade timbers. For your first bench that is the general recommendation. Buy what's cheap and plentiful where you live. Mine is Douglas Fir.

*- Are there any changes that I could/should make to make the build simpler?*
Simpler not really. Stronger yes. I'm not a fan of the lag bolted top. I wouldn't use the angled back legs either. I'd probably do a mortise and tenon joint for the top to leg connection. Jay Bates has a simple design for a workbench that is quite easy to build. Maybe copy his approach for the legs assembly and build the top in the style pictured.

Others may disagree but I look at workbenches a little from a physics stand point. For every action there is an opposite and equal reaction. That means if I'm chiseling on a bench that has any give or spring I'm going to feel that feedback. The base of a workbench is just as important as its top to me. I want all of the forces I apply to the top to be absorbed as much as possible. A strong base with a beefy connection to the top will assist in distributing forces applied.

As far as copying goes I don't think its an issue. Like you said you aren't selling this.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Mosquito has made such a workbench
Start here
Quite interesting to follow.

As for "chiseling on a bench that has any give or spring" , it is recommended to chisel just atop a feet.
Look for Paul Sellers video "bad vibrations"

Nordic countries workbench have skinny bases, it doesn't seem to give them problems.
Some food for thinking

I don't think the Maguire's design has anything which was not done before, except, maybe, the board which allow closing the tool well.


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## BlasterStumps (Mar 13, 2017)

Sylvain writes: "I don't think the Maguire's design has anything which was not done before, except, maybe, the board which allow closing the tool well."

I really like the tool well with the removable bottoms that also can be made to close up the top. 
If I remake my bench, I will definitely build that feature again. Easy to clean out the tool well.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

Geez if you want to see how Richard did his laminated tops, check out his latest blog post. He even admits it was over the top. As to that joint, hard to say. I can see the dowels in top, He may use T&G, half laps, housing joints etc or some combination of them, whatever he knows will be strongest and most rack resistent.


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