# Finishing QSWO



## Crickett (May 7, 2014)

I'm nearing the end (relatively speaking) of making all of the pieces for an Arts & Crafts style bed frame where I've taken influences from several stickley and mission designs into what ultimately pleased my wife and I. I wasn't totally moved by the designs I found floating around, and came up with a stunning design that I will definately post here when it's complete. My dilema is one I'm sure has been completely beaten to death, but it has to do with the dreaded finishing stages. My raised panels, vertical spindels, railes & styles, stretchers, and splined-mitered wrapped leg posts are all QSWO. 
I have a good collection of scrap pieces to experiment with, and have not been please with several different hues of danish oil. Back to the drawing board - not sure if I should go with a Transtint dye for a background color for the ray flecks, than seal with shellac, and do a top coat of a glaze (General Finishes or Zar). I really like the look of the Georgain Cherry gel stain from General Finishes but also want that contrasting color in the wood grain. Also, I'm debating finishing the pieces prior to assembly and then spraying a varnish as a final coat after assembly. A penny for your thoughts…... ???


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

I always finish as much as possible before assembly. Including the top coat. But often apply one final top coat after assembly as it helps tie it all together. As for the process, I prefer dye, shellac (Sealcoat) then top coat as you describe. General Finishes is always a great product and easy to get. For about ten years in my cabinet business I only used Aqua Coat finishes.


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## mramseyISU (Mar 3, 2014)

I do a lot of stuff with QSWO and I really like plain old Minwax cherry stain. Better yet my wife likes it.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

For beds, I finish the headboard and footboard as units, and the long bed rails separately.
Before you go to the trouble of doing the typical stain-over-dye technique, try some of the high-solid content stains available. Examples include Rodda, Varathane, and Cabot brands.

In my experience, gel stains can be a nightmare on large projects. They look so pretty on boxes and small projects because the gel stain is quickly wiped off. On large projects it takes much longer to wipe the gel stain off, even if you have a helper. Invariably the gel stain will look darker and less uniform that your sample board.

If you want to go to the trouble of a stain-over-dye look just use transtint dye and oil based stain. Examples of that particular technique are abundant.
Here is a detailed discussion on the topic with sample board… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/35559


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## mcomisar (Oct 9, 2012)

+1 for dye + stain. I've always used General Finishes gel stain, but I've never done anything as big as a bed. Also, I like a coat of amber shellac to warm the hue.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I'm finishing a QSWO box right now, with frame and panel design. I did a whole bunch of samples. This box will be for my in-laws, and I wanted to match some of their existing oak furniture. I tried different oils, gel stains, and combinations. The one I liked the best, and matched closest, was actually a very light coat of arm-r-seal wiped on, followed by a coat of GF candelite gel stain (rubbed in well and wiped off), and then 3 more coats of arm-r-seal. The initial coat of arm-r-seal before the stain worked as a conditioner and the rays came through much better than they did without it.

My in-laws saw my test pieces and their favorite was actually just plain arm-r-seal. Nothing else. Well, I guess they saved me a staining step.


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## Crickett (May 7, 2014)

Pintodelux - what shade on GF do you have in the dye/stain row all the way to the right? Is that the Java color? I really like GF's Georgian Cherry, but due to the scale of the project, I won't have enough time to wipe it on and off before it begins to settle and dry. I'm really at a loss for how to finish this bed frame.


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

I always spray my stains on heavy, then wipe off the excess. Never had a problem with it drying.


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

Watco medium Walnut Danish oil with Arm-R-Seal on top.


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## Crickett (May 7, 2014)

As I mentioned above, I don't particulary care for the look of danish oil on QSWO since it's extremely porous, I'd like something to accentuate the open pairs versus the very dense and non-porous rays.


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

Sorry, I missed that. I guess I don't really understand what you are looking for. Below is what I like, but it sounds like you want the rays to be lighter in color.


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## ScottC (Apr 6, 2010)

I've been following the Jeff Jewitt formula (loosely):

Transtint Medium Brown
Clear or Blonde shellac
GF Brown Mahogany Gel
Shellac
Wax

I also recently experimented with a Ritter yellow dye before the TT Brown. It had some effect, but I think it looks a little different on each board.


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## JCantin (Jan 21, 2009)

+1 on what Scott said (Jeff Jewitt, transtint/shellac/GF gel stain/wax)


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## ScottC (Apr 6, 2010)

I should have said RIT dye, the kind found out grocery, drug, craft stores, etc.

I knew what I meant!


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