# What goes good over tung oil?



## ToddTurner (Apr 20, 2009)

I have just completed a small table. It is special because of many reasons and i will post it when its finished. Special because (1) it is for my wifes new office, and (2) it is all new to me. Every psrt of the table is something i have little or no experience with including the finish, which is my weakness. I decided to use tung oil. I wiped on (and off) 2 coats oftung oil on it today and it really woke up the colors and grains. Is it okay to spray water-based clear coat on top of tung? I use the Minwax poly crylic 
Whats your experience with tung oil? I like the water bourne clear coating stuff for easy clean up but im not opposed to using whatever goes best to achieve a smooth luster. Thanks fellow jocks!!!


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

pure tung oil or the minwax brand tung oil?
I can't comment about pure tung oil, but the "tung oil" that can be bought at most big box stores is simply a varnish/oil blend similar to Danish oil. In fact, most of the stuff labelled "tung oil" isn't even tung oil based. I have no experience with the water based poly, but the regular minwax wipe on poly will go fine as a top coat.


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

What specific product did you use? Just because the label says "Tung Oil" doesn't mean that tung oil is in the formula.

Generally, if a drying oil is fully polymerized, you can top coat with waterborne poly without a problem.


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## JohnZappulla (Aug 15, 2011)

Todd,
Great question! I have never heard of any topcoat for tung oil. I've always enjoyed working with tung as it is so easy to apply and can be recoated every year or so. I know it's a slow drying finish and I would suggest you hold off on applying anything until the finishing experts address this one. 
JPZ


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

I have a formul that I've used for years, and it works pretty good for all my projects…I use "pure" 100% t.o., and use 50% tung oil, 50% mineral spirits, and 50% polyerthane all mixed together….you get the best of both worlds that way..the mineral spirits is a drying agent, and if needed, you can add a little more for faster drying, but don't cut it too much..you can add several coats if need be to get the look you want…...


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## ToddTurner (Apr 20, 2009)

Hey guys thanks for the good useful feedback. Im using pure tung oil. Looks like i have a few options here that i wasnt aware of. I may even elect to use only tung oil. It looks nice now.


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## Weaver (Jan 1, 2012)

I've used pure tung oil on a few projects, and i have to say i really enjoy deep color it brings out.
from what i've read, it needs to cure for 30 days. (the waiting drives me nuts) but when it is done it looks great.
I have also applied a coat of Johnson's paste wax after it cures… mainly because i love it way it makes the piece feel/look.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

You can still use a 1 lb cut of shellac. You will have to use the french polish method. I would first wipe the project down with denatured alcohol. Then proceed with the french polish. BLO is a great simple finish but will not last long. The BLO - mineral spirit - Poly mix is a great idea.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

Todd,

I have also just used pure tung oil only, but as you already know, you have to mix it w/ mineral sprits or it'll never dry….without using m.s., it will stay tacky and sticky forever…. It all depends on what I'm suing it for, like putting 2-3 coats on my shop furniture and jigs…..it works great there, too….The BLO--mineral spirits--tung oil formula that superdav721 mentioned is also very good…..thanks superdav…I forgot about that mix…..


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

When in doubt, dewaxed shellac will adhere to almost all other finishes. It's a lifesaver for those doing restoration work. It is also a good sealer for use under other finishes so you can apply a coat of shellac then finish the project with your favorite topcoat.


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