# Fun with a Stanley #45 -



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

*Introduction and References*

*The Stanley #45*









Touted by Stanley as "7 Planes in One" 

Beading and Center-beading
Plow
Dado
Rabbet and Filletster
Match Plane (Tongue and Groove)
Sash Plane
Slitting Plane

What shall follow in subsequent entries will be information that I've been able to gather on these wonderful planes. I won't claim to be an expert on the subject matter, but rather someone with a profound interest in the uses of a Stanley #45.

I will use this first entry to maintain a list of outside references that I have found useful. If anyone has any suggestions for references pertinent to the #45, I would be more than happy to entertain them.

I will do my best to update things as I go. Thank you for joining me in my journey to better understanding the #45.

Update: There is now also a forum topic to accompany this blog. It can be found here

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Type Studies*

#45 Type Study by Stan Faullin
#45 Type Study by Gordon Muster
Patrick Leach's Blood & Gore
Hans Brunner's #45 type study

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Manuals*

#45 Manual from Stanley
#45 Manual from Hans Brunner Tools - My preference over the one from Stanley

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Other*

Parts list from Hans Brunner Tools
Some reading about the slitter at FineWoodWorking
Replacement Parts from St. James Bay Tool Co.
Some General How-To from Alf at Cornish Workshop
Hollows & Rounds Evolution


----------



## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


Thanks for taking the time to do this!
Most interesting.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


Great thread Mos … ill be watching with interest. And of course ill also find myself wanting one in the end. My wallet hates you. I on the other hand …. uhmm … dont.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


Mos, thanks for sharing these links…now I feel less afraid of buying the must have tool for every hand tool woodworker! There's no router in my shop for a reason…C'mon christmas money!!!


----------



## docholladay (Jan 9, 2010)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


Mosquito,

I look forward to following this blog. You already have mentioned most of the good links for detailed information relating to this plane. Like most combo tools, my #45 does several things well, but not exactly perfect for any of them. Mostly, I use mine as a plow plane and then occasionally for beading. I also have a #78 that is easier to use for cutting rabbets. Anyway, good information and look forward to following this. If you can, I would be interested in seeing some video on actual use of the plane as part of this series.

Doc


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


Mos,

Interesting reading about the slitter which seems to be a kind of cutting gage. Somebody once pointed to a video of a Japanese woodworker who was cutting (not simply marking) thin boards with a cutting gage.

The other links are also interesting, I have myself pointed to Al's site here several times.

Why not "fun with Stanley #45 (and similar planes)" 
to get a broader audience.

The site of Al is not limited to one type.
Various tricks might be interesting for owners of other make and model.

I am looking forward to the growing of the reference list.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


This is going to be great… Thank you for taking the time to do this Mos.

"And of course ill also find myself wanting one in the end." ... Yep, Stef typed that and hit enter.


----------



## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...












One of my favorite planes! Great reference material. Thanks for doing this!


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


Doc, there shall be video in following blogs. I intend to go through as many of the uses that Stanley lays out with pictures and video. I've already done videos for Match, and Dado, and will be making some more soon.
-

Sylvain, I've tried using my slitter once before, but it didn't work the greatest. I think I need to get it sharper, and take it less depth at a time. Something I'll be working on later, I suppose.

Why not "fun with Stanley #45 (and similar planes)"
Quite simply, because I don't have any of the similar planes lol I've got a #45, and a pair of #46s. I want a #55, but that's going to have to wait for a while. I'd like to upgrade my #45 first, as mine is in somewhat rough shape in some areas.
-

poopiekat, The #45 is also one of my favorites (if not the favorite, but don't tell the rest of them that). It's easy to find a lot of information on how to use bench planes, and even molding planes to an extent. But trying to find good information (with pictures and/or video) of a #45 being used isn't the easiest thing to do. I'm hoping that this blog series will eventually help fill that void.


----------



## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


Agreed, Mos!
I'd like to see some of those auxiliary molding shoes that are used with the more complex profiles. I've only seen a few on eBay, most memorable was an entire set of shoes (not sure if that's the right term) or is it *'soles'?* for a #45 that went for perhaps a few thousand bucks. yikes. Could any #45-55 be complete without 'em?


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


I believe Stanley just called them "special bottoms" in the manual. There's a set that keeps popping up on eBay of hollows/rounds and nosing… Even though I really can't afford to drop that kind of cash right now, I hate it whenever I see them listed again… and I always bid, just in case the reserve was lowered… lol One of these days, maybe. I feel like I would really have to upgrade my #45 to deserve those, though. My #45's fence was broken and welded back together, and the nickel platting isn't in the greatest shape…

I've only ever seen mention of hollows, rounds, and one for nosing for the #45, but I'll have to do some more research and see what all was offered for the #45. I imagine the ones from a #55 should work on a #45, though…


----------



## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...












Thanks, Mos! There's none currently listed on eBay, that I can find. Here's a "record" plane equivalent, so that those who are curious can see what they are.. 
Fences seem to be a dime a dozen, unless you're going for an identical period replacement.
I'm afraid a #55 is going to come up for bid, and if I get my hands on one, I'm sure my head will explode!


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


The hollow and round set ended a couple of days ago, I believe. I've seen a couple of the hollow cutters recently, but no bases… that doesn't do me any good! I'd have a 1/4"-1/2" deep cut, and that wouldn't be very fun lol

I too want a #55 eventually… I keep putting in early bids on some on eBay, just in case no one else is paying attention…


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


Great resource Mos, I appreciate you trying to fill the information void on the #45. I havent broken mine in yet. I'm going to have to make one of those boxes that Roy made with is to get warmed up to it.


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


I will eventually try one of those boxes too. Though at the moment, I've got enough other projects going on lol
From my experience, when using the #45 on endgrain (or cross grain), the more solid you can hold the work piece and minimize movement, the better. Something that's almost impossible with my workmate lol


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


Do a rabbet instead or one of those locking tongue in dado joints, its more #45 centric. The other thing I think I would change about the box is that lip, I would rather do the offset rabbets inside and outside the box that interlock when you cut box open. You ever see that, I cant find a picture of it right now for some reason.


----------



## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


Hey, Mos:
Any chance you could convert this blog to a forum topic? Just for sustainability. It's going to fade to the back pages, and I'd really like to see it stay at or near the top like the HOYD thread does…just askin'


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


poopiekat, I could start a forum topic for it, but I was planning on having individual blog entries for the different tasks (rabbet, dado, etc). Can the forum topic starter edit the first post indefinitely? If so, I could repost this as a forum, and then have a "table of contents/index" in the first post, or something.
-

Mauricio, I had tried starting a box using my #45 (to house the #45) but when I was making the rabbets around the base, I had the depth stop set too high and the wood got too thin, so I ended up scrapping it. I'll come back to it some day.


----------



## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


Mos: Yes, the original post in a forum thread is editable forever. As you know, any subsequent posts have a 60 minute window for editing. You can even modify the title, as a few have been known to do here 
It's totally up to you, of course, but I suggested converting to a forum just to get the maximum amount of interest, even to draw a few curious onlookers into the realm of the #45 world. It's your call. I'd suggest keeping homoerotic photos in a separate chapter, rather than the unfortunate mixture of awesome technical info interspersed with shocking photos like on the HOYD thread. LOL!


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


Done


----------



## palaswood (Aug 9, 2013)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


Oh sweet a whole blog series on the #45? thank you!


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Introduction and References*
> 
> *The Stanley #45*
> 
> ...


Smitty brought to my attention this link, with a lot of information on the progression of the Hollow & Round bases for the #45 (Also added to the 'references' section here:
Hollows & Rounds Evolution


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

*Plowing a Groove*

Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.

In this blog entry, I will be using my Stanley #45 plane to cut a groove along the face of a board.

For the purpose of this example I am using a scrap piece of pine.

I am using a 1/2" cutter, and have the depth stop set up for 3/8", as well as the fence 3/8" away from the edge of the cutter. 









I am using the second skate in addition to the main body for this. This is not necessarily required for a cutter that is this narrow, according to some of what I read, but I find that it helps me to keep the plane perpendicular to the work piece. Anything wider than 1/2", and I would recommend using the skate, as it prevents the cutter from twisting. In harder woods, I would also recommend using the second skate on cutters 1/4" wide and larger.

The #45 is set up with the short rods as opposed to the long rods. There is nothing stopping a person from using the long rods, I just prefer to use the short ones when I can. 









The knickers are not required, nor recommended for working along the grain.









And of course, the video on the subject.




View on YouTube

Thanks for checking it out. I look forward to creating the rest of the videos I hope to make.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Great series, video, and detailed information for reference. Should prove very beneficial to those who own a plow like this Stanley, unfortunately I do not. However, I do have a wooden plow, and I find your postings very interesting. Thanks.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


The thing about measuring distances from the fence (for instance) on the #45… Assuming you're using the tool to cut a dado that will be matched on another board (or set of boards making up a carcase, for example), make all dados at the same time, while the tool is in this setup, and measurements don't matter.

Of course, I realize my habit is not to measure stuff…


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the tips, Mos! I just THOUGHT a 45 looked intimidating…then I got a SW in the original box. I can't even assemble the tool without the .pdf I downloaded!  But, that's sorta like meeting Photoshop for the first time…very powerful program…too many feautures to learn without experienced help!

Thanks, again, and keep it coming!


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Good stuff, thank you Mos.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Mos,
Great video, everything is spot on in my experience. Have you tried the hollow and round yet?


----------



## Enoelf (Mar 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


I have a Stanley 45 that belonged to my wife's grandfather that I want to use, but wasn't sure how it all worked. Now, I have an idea!
Thanks for sharing this video!


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Good video Mos, look forward to seeing more. So nice to see the #45 in action without the workbench rocking!

Question: wouldnt there be an advantage to setting the work piece flush with the bench? Wouldn't that give the fence more bearing surface?


----------



## JulianLech (Jan 13, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


I purchased a Stanley 45 on Ebay some time ago and only tried to use it once on oak. This plane does take some time to set up and understand how to use. Roy Underhill used this plane on his show several times and did a good job explaining how it works. Looks like you are pretty efficient with this plane. Thanks.


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


*Oldtool* thanks, I'm sure some of the techniques can transfer over to the wooden plow planes; specifically in regards to the actual planing techniques.

*Smitty* Thanks. When I am working on a project, I do as you say. I will cut the groove along the whole thing before cutting it into the pieces I need. I did that in the video with my chalkboard project. Good tip that I forgot to mention, for doing everything with the same settings at once, before switching to the next one

*Terry* Thanks man, I was thinking about doing a video at some point to just go through assembling disassembling, and adjustments.

Thanks *waho*

*Keving* Thanks, I have not had the opportunity to try the hollows and rounds yet. I have been keeping an eye on them as they come and go…

*Enoelf* Thanks! Stick around, I hope to be making a few more videos covering the different advertised uses. 

*Mauricio* Thanks, it's so nice to not have to waste energy fighting with the workmate… I have tried it that way, before, but I use the fence in the upper position, so the fence rides on the workpiece even after the cutter is most of the way through. When I tried using ti against the bench, I found that if there was any movement in the workpiece it would throw it off.

*Julian* Thanks. I really do enjoy using the #45, so I use it quite often


----------



## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Thanks for posting the video. I picked up a #45 at a swap meet a while back. I haven't tried using it yet because the screws securing the nickers are absolutely frozen in place with the blades up. But now that I know they aren't needed on long grain planing, I'll give it a shot!


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Thanks *Brian*. I will use the knickers in some long grain work, but very rarely. More often than not I would forget to disengage them and the next time I used it, the knickers would leave nice big grooves in my work piece when making a rabbet, or something. I've had issues with them in oak when I was too lazy to take the time to disengage them. They'd get in the grain and push it off track. Not the best results.


----------



## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Alright, so unless one is working across the grain, the nickers are a detriment. Good to know! Now I can't wait to get home and try it out.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


No nickers for long grain rabbets? No wonder I'm frustrated with the 5 minutes I tried my 45…on a piece of Oak! With an iron that I sharpened for 3 minutes…

I hearby apoligize for the words I spoke to my lil sweetheart! 

Mos, a video showing ANY tips on the 45 would be great! I really DON'T want to own a router…


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Thanks Terry. I was sort of in the same boat the first couple times I tried it with the nickers in long grain. It was rather frustrating.

I like having the router for more difficult woods, or lots of the same thing, but having to send the piece through the table, stop, adjust height, re-run, stop, adjust height, re-run, etc … gets annoying lol


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


I really appreciate and am enjoying all the information and instruction that you are producing/compiling regarding the #45 Mos. And i am with Mauricio in liking that fact that you now have a much more accommodating surface on which to display your skills; too cool.

I am missing the secondary depth stop for my #45, is that something that will be a necessity for some tasks? i.e. do i need to start looking for one?

Thanks again Mos.


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Thanks Tony. I felt it was a great way to "break in" the new bench's wagon vise 

For the second depth stop…
Depending on how you do a dado (from the left or the right of the batten), you might use it there. Otherwise it's not specifically required for anything else. There's also a beading guide which is a lot longer, and used if you're adding beading to the edge of a tongue from T&G, but isn't technically a depth stop.

Otherwise, if you have both depth stops set the same, it is nice for grooves that are further from the edge. It's helpful because it prevents you from rocking the plane once you hit the depth stop to continue cutting.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Got it. Thank you.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Hey Mos, I spent a few hours with my SW 45 yesterday…feel much more comfortable now. But have 10 times as many questions to ask! 

How the heck do ya use those tiny 1/8" and 3/16" blades to form a groove? Both of those blades are narrower than the knickers can possibly reach.

I'm asking because of the marking gauge swap! I wanna inlay some brass in wood, and the 45 looks like the best tool in my shop. Do I just let the knickers keep riding in their own grooves, while slowly letting the iron down with each pass or two? Then plane off the knicker grooves?

I made plenty of decent 1/4" wide grooves in pine and cherry…not clean enough for an inlay…but def great enough for a free floating base in a drawer or whatnot. Love the tool after one serious day with it…but I can see there's a ton to learn! I'll try to post some photos over on the Epic Thread tomorrow…


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Easy, you don't use the knickers for making a groove 

With anything smaller than 1/4" you don't use the second skate, just the main body. Therefore, you could only use one knicker if you needed it.

You can also post pictures here too


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Mos. I think I tried the lil irons without knickers just for a second or so…will try again without the 2nd skate.

What a powerful and complex tool…the pdf owner's manual I downloaded just scratches the surface of the info needed. Hey, is there a good book just on the 45? Or is that YOUR project for the next few years? 

photos coming…


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


There's a few somewhat decent book on combination planes in general that cover the #45. I've got a couple books on it. I don't remember the titles though. I know one was published by woodcraft, I believe.

I love my some #45. So much fun


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Here's a shot of my SweetHeart…Jeez…I hope have all the right knobs in the right places. 









Still playing around with the 1/4" iron for now…but long grooves seem to be cleaner without the knickers…doh! 

Thanks for the tips, Mos! I'm gonna have tons of questions while learning to use this tool!









I love how the curly shavings grab onto the Stanley logo…


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


lol it looks like it's set up right to me . That's a happy lookin' #45…

How deep do you have the depth stop set? It doesn't look like there's a whole lot left for threads on it above the knurled nut.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Depth stop? Huh? Which one? 
LOL…

I was just playing…didn't measure the fence or stops. Hate to brag…but all my 45 irons look like they have never been touched since the factory grind. I haven't even honed them yet…just playing and testing the waters…


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


What do you think is wrong with my technique here Mos?

















It doesnt matter how much I push the fence against the board or how much I start from the end and work back, the iron wants to work its way to the side.


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


How do you have the plane set up? Do you have the spurs/knickers engaged?

I've had this issue before, and one of the reasons has been that I wasn't holding the plane perpendicular to the work piece. It's also happened when I was taking too thick of a shaving, and it was trying to follow the grain


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


No nickers engaged. Hmm, I was taking a heavy cut, and it didnt happen when I took a light cut. But with the light cut the back part of the cut was a little sloppy. I thought with fewer strokes it would be cleaner. Ill try to back it out a bit.

The position of the fences doesnt matter much right? as long as there inside the edge of the iron?

Thanks!


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


For a groove the position of the sliding skate (I assume that's what you meant by fence) doesn't really matter as long as it's inside the width of the cutter. I do usually put it close to or at the edge of the cutter when I set it up for grooves though.

You'll want to line the edge of the iron up with the edge of the main casting though, unless the iron is sharpened pretty out of square.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


We need an entry on cutting T&G Mos!


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Never Mind, just found it on Youtube:


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


and check out that workmate wobble, yeah!

Those were the ones I was talking about earlier. I'll try to get around to making a set of videos for it next week when I've got a little less going on. One where the workpiece moves less than the plane, and similar to the plow one, where I describe more of what I'm doing.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


I think videos are more of a winter activity, anyway. Bet you miss that workmate wobble. ;-)


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


oh, that workmate is still there, it's got my hand crank grinder on it at the moment. It also makes for a good flat surface to set workpieces that I can't have in other pictures yet ;-)


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


LOL, yeah, it would be nice to see how much easier that is on your new solid bench.

I'd be interest to see what you say about setting up the irons. How finicky do you have to be about blade alignment to get the T&G to match up? Technically there shouldn't be any alignment issues with the #45 but I've found there is a little manipulating I have to do to make sure the blade is just peeking out from the main skate.


----------



## lussier56 (Sep 19, 2014)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info it was was very helpful. also glad to know I don't need the knob I don't have.


----------



## DBDesigns (May 29, 2018)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Mos,
Great stuff.
I don't mean to sound ungrateful and I still haven't worked all the way through your blog but this is great information and I would love to learn more about how to use my 55, 50, 48, etc. Any plans on getting into other models?

So far I have just rehabbed them and then gone back to my power tools.
Based on the view of your shop, it looks like you are a hand tool guy.
Stay sharp,
Tim


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Thanks Tim. I've got aspirations to finish the set of videos I meant to make for the #45 first, then I wouldn't mind getting in to other combination planes. As for hand tool or not, I'd say it's a toss up. I enjoy using hand tools for joinery, but now have a good compliment of power tools if I just want to get the job done (like lots of ripping and/or stock prep lol)


----------



## Loulegal (Jan 15, 2020)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


Excellent videos. Very helpful for a newcomer to the Stanley 45 like me.
The adjustable fence is what I have. Does anyone know the exact sizes of the adjusting screw and the locking screw for the fence? They do not appear to be any standard imperial or metric size.


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Plowing a Groove*
> 
> Glad to have my workbench in a usable state, so I thought I'd make the first video for this blog series.
> 
> ...


When you say the adjusting screw for the fence, do you meant he one that's used on the micro adjustable fence?

I'm not sure what the exact thread size and pitch are, but I do know that they're double threaded


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

*Tongue and Groove*

Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.

For the purpose of this example I am using a couple pieces of pine.

I am using the 1/4" Tongue and Groove irons, and have the depth on the tongue iron set as deep as it can go. The Groove depth stop is set to match this depth once the tongue has been cut.

The #45 is set up with the short rods as opposed to the long rods. There is nothing stopping a person from using the long rods, I just prefer to use the short ones when I can.

The knickers are not required, nor recommended for working along the grain.

When cutting the tongue, the fence is installed in the upper holes, to lower the fence below the cutting iron. It can be moved back up to the lower holes to raise it back up for plowing the groove.

I finish up with a little chamfer on the edge of both boards, to have a little V-groove. This is helpful to hide the joint between boards, especially if there's any gaps from expansion and contraction of the boards.





View on YouTube


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


Moss, the video works just fine.
Do you not have a fine adjustment on the rosewood fence?


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


Thank you Mos!


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


No problem guys. I had shared the video a while ago in the #45 thread, but was waiting for embedding to come back.

Kevin, at the time, no. I didn't have the screw for it, but I do now. It would have made setting the fence the second time easier


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


Ah, very nice, Mos!


----------



## j1212t (Dec 7, 2013)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


That was some good action, really enjoyed it.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


wonderful demonstration.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing, Mos! I need all the tips I can get for that darned 45…too many screws, knobs, and adjusters.

Been using mine this week to cut small rabbets for tills inside the tool chest…works great except for a lil tearout. Doh, these cutters have never been sharpened…and I mean never! Factory bevels are all intact, and I keep forgetting to hone them! 

I just think of my 45 as a new plane…better sharpen…'specially the knickers!


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


Very informative, thanks Mos!

I like the fence reference for keeping your stock aligned.


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys.

Terry, you should give it a sharpen and give it another go. It's a world of difference. Knickers especially helpful. You can also use a marking gauge to mark both edge of the rabbet as well, if you're having issues (I've done that before).

Sharing this video (and watching it a few times myself) has me fired back up to keep working on these videos again… now that I've got the new shop space

I didn't sharpen mine all at once. I just sharpened them as I needed to use 'em, and now I've most of them sharpened up


----------



## TerryDowning (Aug 8, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


Nice video and tips Mos.

Thanks!!!


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


Great video. The dedicated T&G planes sure seem a lot easier.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


Great video Mos! I haven't tried T*G yet on my #45. I even have a dedicated T&G plane (Union #46?) and haven't used that yet either, been to lazy to restore it. I need to get on that.


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


lol they would be Wayne, and I hope to eventually have some, but that's not the point


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


Updated the video on this one as well


----------



## CL810 (Mar 21, 2010)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mos!


----------



## NDakota (Mar 2, 2014)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


Mos, enjoyed the video. I just got the Craftsman 45 and starting to sharpen blades and learning to use it. What I really liked was the SU shirt you wore! I had one son graduate from NDSU and the other from UND, which makes for some interesting dinner conversations, if you know what I mean! Thanks, Jim


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


haha Jim, I can only imagine. At least when it comes to sports, they're in two different genres lol. I graduated in 2010, and my wife in 2011.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Mosquito said:


> *Tongue and Groove*
> 
> Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove.
> 
> ...


Thank you again Mos!


----------

