# New at Woodturning, Terrible at Sharpening



## keith204 (Nov 5, 2013)

Personally, I'm humorously sick of watching woodturning videos where streams of shavings effortlessly fly off the stock.

Online, it seems that everyone is pointing to either: 1) expensive stuff, or 2) long processes. But, when asking a relative who's a hobbyist woodturner, he recommended just freehanding it on the bench grinder.

Obviously, freehand isn't working for me. (see pic below)

I'm eyeballing a jig on Amazon for about $95. Are there any jigs you guys would recommend in the $100 range or lower? Or, advice in general about sharpening lathe tools?


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## ForestGrl (Jun 5, 2015)

I feel your pain, Keith! I am re-learning turning and sharpening, and it`s been tough. What has been essential is the right equipment and tons of advice and videos. (I had some in-person mentoring years ago too). My sharpening set-up is an 8" slow-speed grinder with very good wheels, and the Wolverine set-up including Verigrind (not the VG2, the original). I'll message you tomorrow with some names and links, too hard to do that on this tablet. Sharpening is EVERYTHING but it doesn't have to cost a fortune.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

I sharpen using a standard run of the mill bench grinder and/or belt sander… no jigs or fixtures needed. You will get a feel for it pretty quickly, and it doesn't have to look pretty to cut great 

Cheers,
Brad


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Lot of sharpening systems available and recommend them because will give you repeatability when sharpening your tools.

I use and recommend basic Wolverine system and getting option Vari-grind jig too. Most vendors catering to turners carry the basic & optional stuff.

basic: http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=142611&Category_Code=sharp-wss

optional: http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=142614&Category_Code=sharp-wss

Pen State industries sells a Wolverine clone not sure of price.

Lot of turners also like this system.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=packard&Category_Code=sharp-trugrin


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## Bruyet (Apr 10, 2015)

I just bought both of the One Way systems you listed, but have not had the chance to try them yet. Looking forward to it this weekend. I am impressed at the quality of their tools.

I have pretty good luck sharpening by hand. Some gouges better than others. I need the repeatability and consistency these systems offer.


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## smokie (Dec 29, 2012)

Try this site. http://aroundthewoods.com Go to the " make wood turning accessories" link, follow that to "sharpening jig.". Pretty easy to make and it works well.


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## Rich63 (Jul 24, 2015)

I have been turning about 2 years. I had the same problem when I started. Practice, practice, practice and get some help from local woodturners.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

I made the jig Mark pointed you to^^. It doesn't make it effortless but it definitely helps me to keep a consistent angle. The jig is simple and can be made from scraps in under 5 minutes. I simply clamp it to the table in front of the grinder. I also bought a cheap set of HF turning tools for the sole purpose of learning the ins and outs of sharpening. The Wolverine jigs have a lot of fans and seem to be worth the price but for me, it made more sense to make a simple jig and just practice on tools I wasn't concerned about.


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## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

Plus one on the Wolverine Jig. 
I (sorta) learned to grind freehand, but the jig made it so much easier, that it's just not worth it. Get your tools sharp and keep em sharp. Makes learning to turn so much easier.

I'd also highly recommend finding an experienced turner to get you started down the cutting/slicing path, rather than just "sticking the pointy end in first" path. (I started with the latter.) There's a world of difference between being able to slice through the wood and just dragging a dull edge across it.


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## mpax356 (Jul 30, 2011)

Plus One on UnderDog's comment. I was in the same class he was in and learned to freehand from a world class turner but after acquiring the skill, opted to go back to using a Wolverine. If it is almost sharp it will almost cut.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Check out Cap'n Eddie Castelin's site. Look at the "$2.00 Sharpening Jig". It works.
He's on You Tube.
Bill


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## keith204 (Nov 5, 2013)

My bench grinder is a 3450rpm 6" Skil. Is that something I can get by with, or should I really eventually get something slower?


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## ElChe (Sep 28, 2014)

Hi Keith, a 6" bench grinder with a nice wheel is fine in my opinion. I have an 8" 3450 RPM and because of the increase in the wheel diameter it's very fast but with patience and a good wheel it works just fine. For awhile I coveted a slow speed grinder but over time I developed a good feel (as in my finger tip is burning!!!) for the regular speed grinder even an 8" grinder. What is key is a decent wheel. And even with the usual grey wheel I can grind just fine but again with a lot of patience.


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## 53rdcard (Jul 21, 2010)

i got a slow speed grinder with the 120 grit wheels included from woodcraft a while ago, not sure if they still have them or not. but if you are not hung up on the tools, you can also look into easy wood tools, i got one of the roughers and sold every one of my roughing gouges right after, then bought a couple of the other specialty tools from easy wood tools, they are good, but the detailer and whatever the other one is called, one is round one is a diamond shaped, i can get good results with them but they are not as good as a small spindle or bowl gouge to me at least.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

FWIW … WoodCraft has the Rikon 8" slow-speed grinder on sale for $99.99. Comes with 60-grit and 120-grit friable wheels.


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## ForestGrl (Jun 5, 2015)

Plus 1 on getting an 8" slow-speed grinder and quality wheels . Small wheels and high speed just add to the challenges and frustrations of learning to shape and sharpen. Also, an extremely light touch to the wheel is essential.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Been sharpening my turning tools on a 6" Craftsman bench grinder for over 20 twenty years. Yes would like to have an 8" bench grinder only because cannot fit D-Way CBN wheels on my current grinder. D-Way sells 6" wheels but my grinder shat not long enough.

Really don't care about RPM's people have been arguing merits of slow verus high speed grinder before I got into woodturning. Can blue your tools on either slow or high speed grinder if not careful. Once tools are sharp just need to touch up the edge when resharpen so light touch all it takes.

Only real guidance on buying a bench grinder is buy locally if have a problem can return for exchange or refund.

I use 46 grit medium K-hardness wheel for reshaping or repairing tool edge and 80 grit fine K-hardness wheel for normal resharpening. White wheels lot less expensive but also wear faster. Have to order wheels cannot buy friable wheels in my town suggest you check your area before ordering. If have to order shop for sales or best price. Currently buying Norton wheels but have used other brands in the past.

http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Grinding-Wheels-C20.aspx

I would use your six inch grinder to start and if decide need and 8" grinder later shop for best deal locally.


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## donald_wa (May 29, 2015)

I would suggest Cap'n Eddie Castelin's videos. He's made more than 200 and all are educational and entertaining. He also sells replacement carbide cutters to fit many other tools.


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## ForestGrl (Jun 5, 2015)

Keith, I found the AAW sharpening video on Vimeo. Here's the link:


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## ForestGrl (Jun 5, 2015)

> [snip] Can blue your tools on either slow or high speed grinder if not careful. Once tools are sharp just need to touch up the edge when resharpen so light touch all it takes.
> 
> Only real guidance on buying a bench grinder is buy locally if have a problem can return for exchange or refund.
> 
> - Wildwood


Pretty hard to ruin HSS tools. High speed steel is tempered around 1000-1100 degrees, so they'll start to turn red before losing their temper. Amen to "buy locally"-I returned 2 Delta grinders locally before getting my current grinder (from Woodcraft I think, can't remember). Recently, I've tried the technique of grinding to sharp, then touching up with a diamond honing plate during a project, and back to the grinder when that ceases to work. Seems to work, saves a little time, and less stressful for those of us who are totally confident when touching tool to grinder.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Yes, but only take micro second to go from red to blue! It'd okay to blue HSS is a myth! Just remember not all HSS made to same standards. Several years ago read an article on M2 HSS and learned there were 21 different formals or variations to making M2 tool steel.

Lyn Mangiameli a real word smith please scroll down to paragraph 3 on producing least amount of heat & do not cool tool with water. Cannot find more technical articles on the subject this morning but that's okay.

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=turning&file=articles_271.shtml

Reason you are bluing your tools is because pressing too hard or have a dirty wheel. From personal experience and not sure why found myself bluing tools on a 120 grit J hardness white wheel. So modified my procedure to stopped doing that and went back to 80 grit wheel at replacement time.

Basic general info on grinding wheels, info varies from one manufacturer to the next.

http://www.georgiagrindingwheel.com/grindingwheels_basics.htm

Lot of conflicting or confusing information about sharpening your tools, equipment to use etc. My best advice is buy and use what can afford. Get a bevel without bunch of facets every time go to resharpen your tools. When in doubt re-sharpen your tools!


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## Bruyet (Apr 10, 2015)

I got my One Way system up and running this weekend. This is my first project with truly sharp tools. I only thought they were sharp before. I started sanding with 320 grit paper on these, where it would have been 100 grit before. My next purchase will be a CBN wheel.

Red maple and Peruvian walnut.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

No jig necessary , just feeling and experience.
Same with hand plane irons and chisels


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## JoshNZ (Jun 22, 2015)

Keith, thought I would chime in here I'm in much the same position as you. After looking at all the jigs I decided to try just copying one, and I came up with this below. Not that pretty but works great. Simple enough that you don't even need directions right…? I was free-hand sharpening and after getting this together it took my bowl gouge to a whole new level of sharp. Big pile of long pieces of shavings under my lathe now.

If you're interested in the cost-free option…


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## Bruyet (Apr 10, 2015)

Dang, I wish I'd seen that before I bought mine. It looks very functional.


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## keith204 (Nov 5, 2013)

Hey Josh - That looks great. Do you have any sites that helped that you'd recommend? I don't need plans drawn out necessarily, but some conceptual guidance would be awesome.


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## JoshNZ (Jun 22, 2015)

I did do a bunch of looking around and found a lot of posts about DIY jigs. One in particular I looked at for a while I will see if I can find it.
But really, don't get caught up in the dimensions or angles, the 'leg' is just a ~1" square piece of stock, turned down to a blunt point at one end, and the block is whatever it is, a grove in it to fit the leg, a hole for the chisel, a bolt right through with flat washers… The bolt through the side is just to keep the chisel from moving (with tip ground round so it doesn't mark it). Basically I thread that jig onto the chisel, then poke the chisel into another block with a hole that is 1 3/4" deep then snug the jig right up to that block and tighten, so there is always 1 3/4" chisel protruding through which means the angle is exactly the same. It takes 15 seconds of light grinding to get it back to perfect. Takes less than a minute in total to restore it to perfect so I've found myself doing it quite a few times per bowl, particularly before finishing cuts.

For initial shaping I chose my desired angle and free-hand ground a flat spot on the tip at that angle, measuring with a bevel square. Then put it in the jig, screwed the bottom support somewhere near what looked to make sense, then adjusted the angle of the leg until the chisel met the wheel at that angle I had free-hand ground. I've never touched it since. The leg length is something like 6" but I really don't think it matters. Your wing profile comes from how long you spend grinding the tip vs the sides etc, you'll figure it out.


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## JoshNZ (Jun 22, 2015)

Here is the link I found most useful, just because it was such a simple looking, design-obvious jig that was easy to convert to wood.

http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk/tip35.htm

I found it in this thread which has a guy asking a similar question, hopefully noone minds me sharing a thread from another forum.

http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?472-Shop-Made-Wolverine-Jig


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## JoshNZ (Jun 22, 2015)

I should mention, I am only quite temporarily set up here. The bench grinder and support arm are screwed to a pallet/skid balancing on a 44 gal drum cut in half lol… So there is plenty of room for improvement as far as aesthetics and ease of future adjustment goes. Your end result can be as simple or complicated as you like.


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## ForestGrl (Jun 5, 2015)

> I got my One Way system up and running this weekend. This is my first project with truly sharp tools. I only thought they were sharp before. I started sanding with 320 grit paper on these, where it would have been 100 grit before. My next purchase will be a CBN wheel.
> 
> Red maple and Peruvian walnut.
> 
> - Bruyet


That's beautiful! Congrats on the sharp tools and your good taste.


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## BrianNH (Jul 23, 2012)

Keith, I have been there - started out right where you are many years ago. I started out with a cheapie high speed grinder and a shop-made reproduction of the Woverine grinding jig. This worked well for several years. Eventually, I switched to a slow speed grinder with a real Wolverine grinding jig. This worked a bit better. Then I bought the Tormek system - yes, this is $$$$, but now I get absolutely repeatable results and zero chance of bluing my tools. I can't speak highly enough about the Tormek, but you should be able to get the same results with your existing setup and a shop made jig.

My advise is to stick with your high speed grinder for now and build yourself a reproduction of the Wolverine jig to get started. Use a light touch and keep a cup of water handy to cool your tools if they get too hot. A small amount of bluing isn't pretty, but it won't actually damage your tool. Also, don't forget to use a slip stone to remove the burr inside the flute.

Stick with this for a bit and then decide how to proceed. I didn't upgrade to the Tormek until many years passed and I had built up a collection of other turning tools beforehand.


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## ForestGrl (Jun 5, 2015)

So Keith, how's it going?? Update?


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## JoshNZ (Jun 22, 2015)

> Keith, I have been there - started out right where you are many years ago. I started out with a cheapie high speed grinder and a shop-made reproduction of the Woverine grinding jig. This worked well for several years. Eventually, I switched to a slow speed grinder with a real Wolverine grinding jig. This worked a bit better. Then I bought the Tormek system - yes, this is $$$$, but now I get absolutely repeatable results and zero chance of bluing my tools. I can t speak highly enough about the Tormek, but you should be able to get the same results with your existing setup and a shop made jig.
> 
> My advise is to stick with your high speed grinder for now and build yourself a reproduction of the Wolverine jig to get started. Use a light touch and keep a cup of water handy to cool your tools if they get too hot. A small amount of bluing isn t pretty, but it won t actually damage your tool. Also, don t forget to use a slip stone to remove the burr inside the flute.
> 
> ...


A little rolled up piece of ~800 grit wet/dry works great for getting rid of that bur too.


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## keith204 (Nov 5, 2013)

> So Keith, how s it going?? Update?
> 
> - ForestGrl


I decided to narrow down the lathe tools I am using to two main ones to keep it simple: the roughing gouge and the half circle scraper. Then I've been sharpening those two by hand to keep proving that I need to build a jig. I've definitely gotten a lot better by hand. But I'll build a jig for sure. Lately I haven't been turning much at all, as lots of other things have been going on in life. But, this winter I plan on getting deeper into turning.


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## ForestGrl (Jun 5, 2015)

> A little rolled up piece of ~800 grit wet/dry works great for getting rid of that bur too.
> 
> - JoshNZ


I've been using 150-180 Abranet mesh, it wraps nicely in a U shape. Do you think that might be too coarse?


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## ForestGrl (Jun 5, 2015)

> I decided to narrow down the lathe tools I am using to two main ones to keep it simple: the roughing gouge and the half circle scraper. Then I ve been sharpening those two by hand to keep proving that I need to build a jig. I ve definitely gotten a lot better by hand. But I ll build a jig for sure. Lately I haven t been turning much at all, as lots of other things have been going on in life. But, this winter I plan on getting deeper into turning.
> 
> - Keith Kelly


Ah, being tough on yourself.  Your web site is quite nice, and I hope that's part of what's keeping you busy. Let us know how the jig-building goes.


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## keith204 (Nov 5, 2013)

> Ah, being tough on yourself.  Your web site is quite nice, and I hope that s part of what s keeping you busy. Let us know how the jig-building goes.
> - ForestGrl


Ah, actually the things keeping me busy have been personal real estate related, and career related. If I had been keeping myself busy on the website, I would no longer have either of those two things of more significant importance.


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## JoshNZ (Jun 22, 2015)

> I ve been using 150-180 Abranet mesh, it wraps nicely in a U shape. Do you think that might be too coarse?
> 
> - ForestGrl


I'm not familiar with Abranet mesh, so I don't know what 150 is but I wouldn't use 150 grit sand paper put it that way. (Just 'cause it would leave scratches in the flute) But I have used lower grits when the finer stuff is out of reach lol… Whatever works! The burr is paper thin steel it doesn't need any real abrasion to remove it. Lots of the knife guys will do the stropping on their jeans or bare skin.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

I got the wolverine and never looked back.

Really love the fixed platform as well as the aluminum guides that come with the grinder and screw to the stamped wheel guard are crappy.

Once you use a 'SOLID' guide, this process becomes easy.

Lots of links to DIY versions of the wolverine… and they are good too. But you NEED a jig if only to have a repeatable stable process that gives you the same grind angle on the tool, so you don't have to change how you hold the gouge every time you sharpen.


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## Bruyet (Apr 10, 2015)

I posted earlier that I had just bought the One Way system. I could not be happier with it. It results in quick and consistent results. The bigger gain I made was buying an 8" 180 grit CBN wheel for my grinder. It is amazing, and I believe it will pay for itself in the long run due to increased life of my gouges.


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