# Problem with Delta 36-725 table saw - keeps shutting itself off



## Hiro666 (Jan 17, 2016)

Unfortunately, this is my first post to this wonderful forum but I'm at a loss.

NOTE: I have not contacted Delta as of yet. I plan to tomorrow but thought I would field opinions from those much more experienced than I.

I first experienced this self shutting off when ripping a full 4×8 3/4" plywood. At first I thought perhaps the used blade I installed was too dull and the motor was overloading and shutting itself off. So I switched back to the blade the saw came with (I bought this barely a month ago) to see if that made a difference. It did… somewhat. I tried ripping the same piece of ply and got within about a foot of completing the cut before it shut off again. Since then I had made smaller cuts without incident.

Tonight, however, was the real surprise. I was setting up to rip a small piece of 1/4" ply. I started up the saw and was about to make the cut but held back and was rethinking something. While I was deep in thought, the saw shut itself off! I hadn't made a single cut! So I let it cool down again, reset it then turned it back on and let it run. After about 30 seconds, it shut itself off. So I obviously have a problem.

Keep in mind, at none of these events did I ever trip my circuit. I set up a new 20 amp circuit to run my heavier tools off of and I only have one of them running at a time. I also took the back off and could see no obstructions. Hand turning the blade feels free and smooth without any spots that grab. When it is running it sounds pretty smooth.

So… any thoughts? Perhaps I'm being dumb and overlooking something obvious? I'm interested in hearing what you all think.

Thanks!


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## hotbyte (Apr 3, 2010)

Bummer…that's no fun. Sounds like you've checked things I would think about - circuit size, free spins, etc.

Does the motor feel hot/over heated right after it shuts off? Or, maybe it is some type of capacitor issue?


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## Hiro666 (Jan 17, 2016)

Update: I let the saw cool overnight then went to just turn it on. After a minute, it shut itself off. Ugh.

I spoke to Delta this morning and they say I should return it. Spoke to Lowe's and they don't have a problem with me exchanging and, thankfully, I don't have to break it down and get it back into the box (though they do require the box). Still in all, this is a pain. It's not like its an easy thing to just throw this thing onto my truck. I've got to get it back upstairs from my basement and onto the back of my truck.

In researching my issue, it definitely seems to be the exception since I couldn't find another instance of this happening to someone. This saw is so popular there are plenty out there and it looks like I just got unlucky and got a lemon.

Needless to say I will be firing up the new one before putting it all together and getting it down to my basement!


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## Hiro666 (Jan 17, 2016)

hotbyte - The Delta tech said it might be a capacitor. He said it could be belt related. Either way, the nearest Delta service center is more than 80 miles away and since this is a new saw he said to just exchange it.

Yes. The motor does get pretty warm but not sure what is normal.

Either way, looks like I get to wrestle again with this beast.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

Are you using an extension cord?


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Does that saw have a magnetic switch or just a simple on/off button? When it stops, do you have to push the reset button on the motor or just turn it back on? If the later, and it has a mag switch, it could be something as simple as a loose wire in the switch. If the former, then just take it back because it could be any number of things that you probably don't want to troubleshoot 

Cheers,
Brad


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## 716 (Nov 22, 2015)

By 76-725 you mean 36-725. Right ?
Next time when you get the same issue, plug it off and feel the motor. If it is hot it could be a short somewhere in the winding. 
The good thing this saw has 5 years warranty so no worry, Delta will send you a new motor.

------
OVERLOAD PROTECTION
Your saw is supplied with overload protection. If the
motor shuts off or fails to start due to overloading
(cutting stock too fast, using a dull blade, using the
saw beyond its capacity, etc.) or low voltage, let the
motor cool three to five minutes. Then depress the red
reset button (B), on the motor under the saw, shown in
Figure 20, and restart the saw.
NOTICE: If the motor continually shuts off due to
overloading, contact a qualified electrician.


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## Hiro666 (Jan 17, 2016)

I can't believe I typo'ed the model number! Argh! Yes, 36-725.

I'm not going to try and troubleshoot/fix. I've had the saw for a month. Both Lowe's and Delta have no problem exchanging so I will do that knowing odds are it will be fine.


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## Hiro666 (Jan 17, 2016)

To answer your question, WhyMe - no. I'm not using an extension cord.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

Even though you are getting a new saw, check the voltage on that circuit when under load to make sure you are not having some unusual voltage drop that may have damaged the motor over time. You sure don't want to get a new saw and start having the same problem a month from now.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Check the 220vac / 110vac switch & wiring. A winding miswire could cause your issue.

M


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## Hiro666 (Jan 17, 2016)

MadMark - Hmm… certainly easy to check. I'll definitely take a look.

WhyMe - I'll check but that would be surprising considering this is a new circuit I wired myself.

I appreciate everyone's response!


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

Hiro666 said he wasn't going to do any trouble shooting since he's getting a new saw..


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

> WhyMe - I ll check but that would be surprising considering this is a new circuit I wired myself.
> 
> - Hiro666


It's probably just a bad motor cap or overload device. Not suggesting you did crappy electrical work but it won't hurt to check the voltage when you get the new saw up and running.


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## Hiro666 (Jan 17, 2016)

Oh, believe me. I fully keep an open mind when it comes to me doing stuff and the potential for screwing something up!


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## 716 (Nov 22, 2015)

> MadMark - Hmm… certainly easy to check. I ll definitely take a look.
> 
> WhyMe - I ll check but that would be surprising considering this is a new circuit *I wired mysel*f.
> 
> ...


Maybe that is the cause ? ;-)


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## Picklehead (Feb 12, 2013)

Maybe it thinks it's a SawStop!


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I'm certainly glad you got a resolution of sorts) from Delta. Maybe they're trying to overcome some recent CS mishaps. It will be a PITA, but probably best, to just take it back.


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## Hiro666 (Jan 17, 2016)

> I m certainly glad you got a resolution of sorts) from Delta. Maybe they re trying to overcome some recent CS mishaps. It will be a PITA, but probably best, to just take it back.
> 
> - Fred Hargis


Agreed… including the PITA bit. I started taking apart the saw last night and have a stripped bolt holding the legs on. Yeesh! Oh, and I'm scrambling to find my Lowe's receipt. Did NOT have a good night last night.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

> I m certainly glad you got a resolution of sorts) from Delta. Maybe they re trying to overcome some recent CS mishaps. It will be a PITA, but probably best, to just take it back.
> 
> - Fred Hargis


What recent Delta CS mishaps are you talking about?


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Just the confusion mostly with parts. Someone here posted an explanation of why the Delta parts availability is such a mes, and it had to do with the many changes in ownership that occurred recently. But I've also read several posts about lackluster CS on problems like the one here…and am glad to hear our OP got things straightened out (in a manner of speaking).


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## Hiro666 (Jan 17, 2016)

So to tie this off in case anyone is interested…

I got my replacement saw yesterday. I was really concerned because there was only 1 left between 2 Lowe's and the box was really beat up. Turns out everything was fine.

More importantly, when I tested the saw I could tell it was definitely spinning faster than the previous and just sounded stronger. I also have run a couple full lengths of 3/4 ply and this saw cuts through them so much easier. I'm convinced that something was definitely wrong with the motor or something was binding it which caused the overloading and make it auto shut off.

So at the end of the day, it was well worth the hassle of the exchange.

I'm a happy camper.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Glad that worked out for you, now enjoy!


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## hotbyte (Apr 3, 2010)

Yes, glad you got it straightened out!


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## Speakerbuilder (Apr 10, 2016)

I had a similar problem. Bought my saw at Lowes and after putting it together I powered it up for a test cut. The motor made a whining noise and the blade turned slowly for a few seconds…then the circuit breaker popped.

I found the problem was due to a loose connection on the motor start capacitor…probably vibrated off during shipment as the box looked like hell.

Get a phillips screwdriver and a flashlight. Lay down beneath the saw and remove the 2 small screws securing the black plastic motor housing. Swing the cover out of the way to expose the motor start and motor run capacitors.
Reinstall the loose Faston wire connector onto the terminal of the capacitor.


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## BIGDUST (Oct 17, 2016)

I do need some help though please. I bought one from a wholesale company which seems to be a mistake. I tried the more complex blade alignment procedure due to the fact that the blade was a 1/4 of an inch off (so loosened both set screws and the other allens to try and shift)!! I was able to get it within 1/16 of an inch which is still to far off. Also it didn't come with a throat plate which should have been a red flag. I ordered the Delta zero clearance and it seems like the blade is too far to the left for the plate to even sit down in the slot. Any ideas if the whole motor could have shifted? I looks like only a few pieces have been ran through it and the whole machine looks brand new so I figured for 200 bucks I would chance it. 
Thank you,
Dustin


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> I do need some help though please. I bought one from a wholesale company which seems to be a mistake. I tried the more complex blade alignment procedure due to the fact that the blade was a 1/4 of an inch off (so loosened both set screws and the other allens to try and shift)!! I was able to get it within 1/16 of an inch which is still to far off. Also it didn t come with a throat plate which should have been a red flag. I ordered the Delta zero clearance and it seems like the blade is too far to the left for the plate to even sit down in the slot. Any ideas if the whole motor could have shifted? I looks like only a few pieces have been ran through it and the whole machine looks brand new so I figured for 200 bucks I would chance it.
> Thank you,
> Dustin
> 
> - BIGDUST


Would be glad to offer suggestions but, I'm not sure exactly what's going on. You say the blade is "off", off from what? The saw is a contractor saw, correct? So there is a belt from the motor to the arbor shaft? So, the motor shifting wouldn't affect your blade location at all. It would misalign the belt and cause other problems. Shoot some pictures of your issues and post them and we'll see if we can help you sort it out!


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## BIGDUST (Oct 17, 2016)

> I do need some help though please. I bought one from a wholesale company which seems to be a mistake. I tried the more complex blade alignment procedure due to the fact that the blade was a 1/4 of an inch off (so loosened both set screws and the other allens to try and shift)!! I was able to get it within 1/16 of an inch which is still to far off. Also it didn t come with a throat plate which should have been a red flag. I ordered the Delta zero clearance and it seems like the blade is too far to the left for the plate to even sit down in the slot. Any ideas if the whole motor could have shifted? I looks like only a few pieces have been ran through it and the whole machine looks brand new so I figured for 200 bucks I would chance it.
> Thank you,
> Dustin
> 
> ...


Thank you for the response. I will try and get the pictures tomorrow. The blade alignment is off by 1/16 th front and back from the mitre slot (after all the adjustments to get it there). And it seems the whole blade is too far to the left by about 1/4 of inch which wont allow the zero clearance insert to go in place. Pictures to come hopefully tomorrow


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> ...the motor shifting wouldn t affect your blade location at all. It would misalign the belt and cause other problems.
> - HokieKen


I don't know about the new saw but on my old Delta contractor the motor is attached to the trunnions so the motor can knock the blade out of alignment, and that actually happened to me.

Bigdust, you the saw you bought may have been a floor model or a customer return. I would definitely contact Delta and see what they say.


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## Speakerbuilder (Apr 10, 2016)

No belt…the motor and gear drive are one integral unit. Sounds like the motor is not mounted properly or the mount may have bee damaged. I'd call Delta support and see if they can help.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

> No belt…the motor and gear drive are one integral unit. Sounds like the motor is not mounted properly or the mount may have bee damaged. I d call Delta support and see if they can help.
> 
> - Speakerbuilder


The Delta 36-725 is indeed belt driven, not gear driven. The belt is a short serpentine style ridged belt enclosed in the arbor case attached to the motor housing.


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## BIGDUST (Oct 17, 2016)

> I have ben trying to call Delta all day but get left on hold for 60 min each time so I will try again tomorrow. It probably was a return where someone just used it a couple times and returned it after they jacked something up. Ill have a bit more time to dive into it tomorrow hopefully. I appreciate everyone quick responses!
> 
> ...the motor shifting wouldn t affect your blade location at all. It would misalign the belt and cause other problems.
> - HokieKen
> ...


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

Bigdust, I took a quick look at my 36-725 and I will venture to guess the alignment problem is from the trunnions being out of alignment with the top. You should be able to loosen the trunnion brackets that hold the motor to the top and shift it to get the blade to match the throat plate slot. I assume you have the spacer in place on the arbor between the motor and the blade. It looks like the blade would hit the riving knife bracket without the spacer though. Just thinking out loud.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

From Rick & Whyme's knowledge of the saw, it sounds like an issue of the entire trunion assembly being improperly located on the table. I wouldn't think there would be 1/4" of slop there as the throat insert seems to indicate. Maybe the trunions are bent ir twisted? Not familiar with the saw but that's probably a good place to start.


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## BIGDUST (Oct 17, 2016)

For all those that responded thank you very much. This is a great community! Got it figured out! The rear trunion was way off and sitting crooked to the point that i had to tap it back in place by almost a quarter inch. I can't imagine how the previous owner managed to make any safe cuts. Thanks for your response. Now I am off to make new sleds to accommodate the new saw!!! I forgot to take a before photo but you can see where The marks are on the trunion where I had to tap it back in place







!


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> For all those that responded thank you very much. This is a great community! Got it figured out! The rear trunion was way off and sitting crooked to the point that i had to tap it back in place by almost a quarter inch. I can t imagine how the previous owner managed to make any safe cuts. Thanks for your response. Now I am off to make new sleds to accommodate the new saw!!! I forgot to take a before photo but you can see where The marks are on the trunion where I had to tap it back in place
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You may want to also check and make sure it stays aligned when you tilt the blade. If the trunion assembly is twisted or bent, you'll find that the parallelism of the blade to the slot changes as blade angle changes. Just something you might want to check before you "button 'er up" and call it good. Well done finding and fixing the issue!


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## BIGDUST (Oct 17, 2016)

> For all those that responded thank you very much. This is a great community! Got it figured out! The rear trunion was way off and sitting crooked to the point that i had to tap it back in place by almost a quarter inch. I can t imagine how the previous owner managed to make any safe cuts. Thanks for your response. Now I am off to make new sleds to accommodate the new saw!!! I forgot to take a before photo but you can see where The marks are on the trunion where I had to tap it back in place
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## atomicpad (Jan 4, 2018)

First time posting here, but I have found this blog helpful and it's time to participate! I had the same problem that this post started with: the motor would shut off without any reason on my Delta 36-725. I opened the box containing what I believe is the capacitor. It was full of sawdust. I just blow it away and I have had no problem since. I guess the sawdust with the humidity was making a short circuit. Now I have to find a way to prevent the sawdust to accumulate in the box.
On another note, I called Delta, it took me 40 minutes to get someone to talk to, then I was transferred to a tech who told me I had to go to a Delta repair shop and gave me the address of a shop that closed a while ago… Not very serious. And I am still wondering how they are not aware of this sawdust accumulation problem.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

> First time posting here, but I have found this blog helpful and it s time to participate! I had the same problem that this post started with: the motor would shut off without any reason on my Delta 36-725. I opened the box containing what I believe is the capacitor. It was full of sawdust. I just blow it away and I have had no problem since. I guess the sawdust with the humidity was making a short circuit. Now I have to find a way to prevent the sawdust to accumulate in the box.
> On another note, I called Delta, it took me 40 minutes to get someone to talk to, then I was transferred to a tech who told me I had to go to a Delta repair shop and gave me the address of a shop that closed a while ago… Not very serious. And I am still wondering how they are not aware of this sawdust accumulation problem.
> 
> - atomicpad


Are you using any positive dust removal such as a vacuum hooked up to the dust shoot? I've been using my Delta for a few years now and checked what you are saying and I have no collection of dust in the cover where the cap is located.


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## atomicpad (Jan 4, 2018)

> Are you using any positive dust removal such as a vacuum hooked up to the dust shoot? I've been using my Delta for a few years now and checked what you are saying and I have no collection of dust in the cover where the cap is located.


No I don't use any vaccum system. This is my next project! Any recommendation is welcome.


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## Lampropeltis (Apr 2, 2018)

First time poster here. 
I am having similar problems with my Delta 36-725. It's about a month old. I replaced the factory blade with a Freud thin kerf.

Saw is running on a dedicated 20A circuit. 
I use a 2HP dust collector and you could probably eat breakfast lunch and dinner off my shop floor, and you'd feel bad for getting it dirty. The saw is just as clean, in and out.

PROBLEM: When I raise my saw blade up near full height, it automatically trips off (while running during steady state and from a cold start). I've tested the circuit (at the panel) with my fluke, nothing abnormal. I first thought this was some sort of safety overload feature of the saw based on arbor/blade height position (but then realized i was way overthinking it).

So… any suggestions, let me know.

NEXT STEPS: After reading this forum today, I probably need to look at the motor and see if the cap is bad or wired wrong, or if something is loose when I am raising the blade, which causes a short.

And finally, I can echo the other posters' comments about Delta's LACK of TS/CS. I waited on hold for OVER 45 minutes today during lunch and finally gave up.

Lowe's might be getting another return.


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## patcollins (Jul 22, 2010)

Check out this http://lumberjocks.com/topics/232081

Mine would shut off very easily until I figured out the cap was not connected all the way.


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## patcollins (Jul 22, 2010)

> . I waited on hold for OVER 45 minutes today during lunch and finally gave up.
> 
> Lowe s might be getting another return.
> 
> - Lampropeltis


Maybe their people were at lunch too?


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## Lampropeltis (Apr 2, 2018)

Quick update on this… 
I just got home, plugged the saw directly into the 20A (no extension cord) and took off the throat plate, fired her up and raised the blade, tripped off with a large VISIBLE SPARK that looked like it jumped off the arbor.

Seem a like this would be a big recall issue with the potential fire hazard…


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

> Quick update on this…
> I just got home, plugged the saw directly into the 20A (no extension cord) and took off the throat plate, fired her up and raised the blade, tripped off with a large VISIBLE SPARK that looked like it jumped off the arbor.
> 
> Seem a like this would be a big recall issue with the potential fire hazard…
> ...


I suggest you remove the motor cover and check for any loose wires or wires that have damaged insulation that may be touching metal.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Yes. Like WhyMe said, there is a wiring issue somewhere. If you saw a spark at the arbor, it means when you raise the motor, it's shorting to the saw somewhere. Look for any bare or loose wires.


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## Lampropeltis (Apr 2, 2018)

Update: I partially disassembled the saw, flipped it upside down (the side panels are all tack-welded in place, thus access is possible only through the top or the bottom) - removed one of the two? plastic covers around the motor - all 3 wires on the large capacitor seem to be snug and correctly installed. the two black wires on the starter cap are also snug. 
The other plastic cover is secured with screws somewhere else, I couldnt see them or find them in this position.

Guessing i will need to take the top off now and see if there is something loose or unshielded near the arbor.

From experience with this saw, what's the smartest way to get into the other parts of the motor? I don't want to completely disassemble this thing unless it is 100% necessary.


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## Lampropeltis (Apr 2, 2018)

Final Update (hopefully): So I took everything apart to the best of my ability and never did find a loose wire unfortunately. I called Lowes, store manager offered to replace it and assemble the next one at the store for me (and test it at all blade heights). He also told me not to worry about disassembling the current saw - just throw it in the truck and drop it off and they will load the new one.

purchased 2/6/18, kept the receipt, 10% military discount from Lowes. They seem like a legit company if you can find some decent tools there and I really like that they offer the Military discount 100% of the time for veterans, whereas the orange store does not.

Thanks to everyone for the help. Much appreciated. Some pictures just for reference, off the slow motion video.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

If an open wire were grounding to the arbor then it seems like you'd be getting shocked when touching the saw, should also throw a breaker.


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## Klondikecraftsman (Apr 4, 2018)

I used to sell this stuff for a living. Sometimes they are just bad out of the box. The best thing you can do is exchange it. The odds of getting another bad one are slim. Best of luck.


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## Lampropeltis (Apr 2, 2018)

Received the new 36-725 from Lowes, who assembled it for me (mostly correctly) and allegedly tested it. Got it home, unloaded it, fired it up and made a test cut on a scrap pine 2×4… the results were dreadful. 
1. saw was clearly going through some weird harmonics on startup and vibrated pretty violently 
2. when running at steady state it hit some resonant frequency (or something) and made a much different but equally disturbing vibrations that got worse and worse until the saw started smoking and went into thermal overload and tripped itself off.

So this has been a fun experiment with this model Delta. I will be taking it back again. I've given up on this saw. I will most likely pony up the extra cheddar for the Grizzly 0690 or 0833. My other option was lowes offered to get me the Delta Unisaw 36-L352 for $1999. Retail is about $2700.

The Grizzlies seem comparable to the 36-L352 and they are more affordable, have better customer service and tech support. (I own some of their other equipment).

Any thoughts or suggestions on these saws or something similar? I have a 30A 220 line in my garage and multiple 20A breakers (with more room in the panel), so power isnt a problem.

My goal is to work with larger slabs and hardwood lumbers in the 8/4 to 12/4 range. This is all weekend warrior type stuff for me, I have a 9-5, M-F - but I prefer to buy tools that will last a very very very long time if possible, so the investment is worth it in my mind.

Thanks
-J

I can repost elsewhere since this thread has probably gotten off topic.


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## MKH (Jan 20, 2018)

I was seriously considering the 36-725 but I decided that I wanted a full cabinet and something a little less consumer driven. The display model at my local Lowes was so beaten up that you couldn't raise or lower the blade. The on/off switch was missing and the handle on the fence was missing so I couldn't see how well/parallel it would lock down.

I contacted Delta to see if there was someplace I could get my hands on the saw and check the quality. Their response 2 months later was that it is made exclusively for Lows and I would have to check different Lowes to find one. Not a very reassuring response.

So two weeks ago I order a Laguna Fusion F2 and I'm happily waiting for it to be delivered. I spent $1300 but I got all cast iron extensions, a better fence, a full cabinet and a better quality saw. Got it for 10% off and $75 flat shipping to my driveway (residential delivery with a lift gate) and no sales tax.


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