# Veritas Bevel Up Jointer or WoodRiver Jointer Plane?



## BerBer5985

I know this might be a really dumb questions, but I bought the Veritas Low Angle Jack plane for use on a shooting board primarily, but in a short time, it has been my go to plane for pretty much everything. I'm in the process of dimensioning wood for a project by hand and it's pretty much been the only plane involved other than my cambered jack plane and it's done well, so I was thinking of getting the rest of the set: Jointer and Smoother. My only question is for dimensioning wood, is the bevel up blade going to take more of a beating than a standard bedrock style plane. I have a 5 1/2 Bedrock that I use occasionally too and I like it as well. The LV bevel up planes are incredibly easy to set up and adjust on the fly, but so are the bedrock style planes. I'd go with a LN Jointer, but not at close to $500. Rob Cosman speaks very highly of the woodriver planes, partly because he helped design them, but I've heard decent reviews as well and they are about the same price. I def want the LV smoother, but the jointer is my confusion. I think I know what the answers will be, but I just wanted to get a few other opinions before dropping the dough.


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## JGM0658

I have the LV BU jointer and the LN Nº8 jointer, they have different applications in my opinion. With the Nº8 I can hog a lot of wood and flatten a surface in no time, it takes longer with the LN BU. So I use the LV Jointer as a "finishing" plane to take away any tear out the Nº8 might have left. In addition, a york pitch frog for the Nº8 is expensive with the LV I just change blades for difficult woods, but as I sad before it takes bit more time.

I bought an extra blade for the LN to try the back bevel trick instead of using a york pitch frog, but so far I am happy just using both planes.

As to the difference between LV and Woodriver, could not tell you, but if they are the same price, go with LV and proven reliability, IMO.


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## DonH

One consideration would be that the Veritas jointer and jack planes can share the same set of irons. So only one 45 degree and 50 degree blade would be required. A grooved iron is also available.

Don


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## Dwain

If they are the same price, go Lee Valley. Wood River planes get good marks, The bevel up planes from Lee Valley get exceptional marks. You already know about Lee Valley bevel up planes, I don't think this is a decision at all. Go Lee Valley…


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## donwilwol

I'm confused as to what your question is.

You wrote, My only question is for dimensioning wood, is the bevel up blade going to take more of a beating than a standard bedrock style plane.
I'm not sure I know what you mean, take more of a beating. My favorite smoother is still my 604. You can read my review on the LN #62, I love it, but its for different grain, and I don't use it for typical smoothing.

I for one hate changing blades. I've planed pieces that take 3 different planes in the same piece. I'd hate 3 different blades for that, especially when a *GOOD* Stanley #4 is about $50. A LOT less if you can restore.

Next but the jointer is my confusion. 
Confusion how?


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## BubbaIBA

"..I for one hate changing blades. I've planed pieces that take 3 different planes in the same piece. I'd hate 3 different blades for that, especially when a GOOD Stanley #4 is about $50. A LOT less if you can restore."

I agree and will add adjusting frogs for different thickness cuts are also a PITA, much easier to just pick up a plane that is already set. Good early type Bailey planes are so inexpensive it is easy to have them set for a job and if the task changes pick up a plane that has the iron and frog already adjusted for the new task. It is more efficient and cost effective. A well fretted early Bailey pattern plane works every bit as well as a Bedrock pattern and you will have about the same money in 3 or 4 Baileys as a single LV or LN. BTW, I don't shy away from type 9 or earlier because once I have the frog set for a iron and thickness it doesn't get changed.

If you want new, the Woodriver #'s 3 through 6 planes are a great value, other than the pleasure of owning a LN and having the plane work well out of the box there is not much reason to spend the extra money for either a LN or a LV.


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## OSU55

For removing a lot of wood, i.e. rough work a BD is better because of the greater backside blade relief. For all other work, jointing, smoothing, flattening, I much prefer BU. BU planes are far easier to swap blades and make mouth adjustments. BD are a pain to setup for smoothing and you don't want to change that setup. My Veritas LA jack and jointer are so much easier to change setup on than my Stanley's. The different bevel angles I have on the blades makes it quick and easy to get the setup needed for a particular situation. The BU jointer is much better balanced on the edge of a board vs a #7 due to the lower CG. The Veritas jointer fence is very nice as well.


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## Loren

Observe tear-out. Bevel up planes have a low center of
gravity so they are technically easier to use in jointing
because the shifting of weight is easier. They tear-out
when the grain reversed though. This can be mitigated
by back-beveling the irons (Brian Burns wrote a booklet
on it called "Double Bevel Sharpening") and raising the
effective pitch of the cut closer to a scrape.

In general I prefer a standard bench plane to a 
bevel up. They are more flexible and forgiving
in their way.


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## JohnChung

I would go for the LV Bevel Up Jointer. One can use the existing irons. I have all the blade angles and tooth version. Absolutely love it. It is so versatile.

If you do go for the WR version, do factor in the cost of getting more blades with various angles. Bevel up differs from bevel down. Bevel down has a chip breaker which is really nice for setting up thin shavings and the mouth can be adjusted. Bevel up can take thin shavings but lacks the chip breaker.


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## waho6o9

http://www.lessonsinlutherie.com/doublebevelsharpening.html










Very informative, for those that haven't seen the videos or blade angles.


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