# Storage shed - potential shop sinking?



## jesinfla (Apr 15, 2015)

There's been quite a bit of rain here lately.

I have a 16'x20' storage shed I've been considering making the shop, and I think it's sinking on one side due to soft/wet ground.

It is not on a cement foundation, it rests on concrete blocks with a 4×4 base.

If I look at the base, the main 4×4 (20' length) seems to be tilting towards the sink and if I look at the direction of the sink, the base blocks seem to have sunk a bit.

Is there an easy way or any way to re-shore/level the shed without tearing it down?

I'm kinda at a loss and don't want to lose the shed - would a construction contractor be able to do this kind of work? It's beyond my abilities I'm sure even though I built the thing.

Thanks in advance.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

It could certainly be jacked up and have a better foundation installed beneath, without pouring concrete it shouldn't be too expensive. That, however, would be the best way ensure the same thing doesn't happen again.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Florida, home of the sink hole… Do you live in that area? If you do, I would think about looking for another place to live…....... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## jesinfla (Apr 15, 2015)

No sinkholes here

Agreed that slab is best, but not going to happen - the cost is prohibitive and I don't know how to do it myself. Plus I doubt I'd be able to move the shed to place a concrete foundation

Thanks for the responses


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Or pour footings.


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## RichardHillius (Oct 19, 2013)

You could do what my neighbors all seem to do and jack the low corner up with a car jack than use a piece of pressure treated lumber to fill in the space or just leave the jack there like one of them did (kidding). It's not the right way to fix the problem but it is a quick fix and if the block was just settling and is done sinking it might never need to be adjusted again.

The right way to fix it is to probably set those blocks on concrete footings set to whatever depth your local code requires but that's a lot more work. A contractor might be able to shift the shed off the blocks, redo them as footings and than shift the shed back on to them but I have no idea how much that might cost.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Harbor Freight sells jacks pretty cheep. Scissor type car jacks or bottle jacks. Check to see if you have room for a jack. If need be, you could cut out a hole or three in the floor to get into the inner area to shore it up. Then replace the floor as needed.

Good luck.
Mike


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## Ghidrah (Jan 20, 2015)

Sorry to say this but the USGS says the entire state of FL is riddled with carbonate/gypsum bearing karst that travels N up the coast through Georgia, N/S Carolina. If you've been subjected to a crap load of rain over an extended period the ground is likely acting like the beach at the water line. Even a slab will subside where the soil is wet and loose


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## jesinfla (Apr 15, 2015)

Went out and took some pics which may help the discussion:

The shed










4×4 runner starting to lean










The rear of the shed - the slab is starting to sink










I have a contractor coming by today (at least that's what he said, who knows if he'll actually show up) to give me a price on getting this done - if it's too high, I'll probably do a trip to HF this weekend (sale on a floor jack and a hydraulic jack) and buy both and see if I can do this myself.

Thanks as always in advance for the advice - it is greatly appreciated


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

Just my thoughts !
Many years ago my DAD lowered a barn. Cut 8ft out from bottom and set remaining roof on foundation.
What we learned during that process is use a WIDE base block system as you lower it.
If that shed was mine I would buy some sidewalk blocks (24×24) and replace the cintern blocks it is sitting on. The wider pad will not sink into soft ground as fast. If the shed continues to sink you can add another sidewalk block, I believe they are 2" thick . I have move lots of 14×16 wooden grainery's. (bins we called them). I used a JACKALL to lift them offr ground high enough o put my wheels underneath.


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## hotbyte (Apr 3, 2010)

My old shop building was built in 40's or 50's on a similar "foundation" from salvaged material from a church fire (house was a parsonage). Wife swore the thing was going to fall in within a year of moving there in 1990. Its still standing firmly as ever…instead of 4X4 beams for floor, it is partially burned 6X6 timbers.

Maybe you could jack up that corner slightly, remove existing blocks and then use the wide blocks suggested above.


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## jesinfla (Apr 15, 2015)

Thanks guys - those 24×24's sound like the ticket - not sure where I'd get them - don't think I've seen them at HD - are they like pavers?


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

Home Depot in CANADA carries them. Also Lowes. I'm sure USA is same.
They are outside in garden section.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

You could make your own using Sackrete: water, a wheel barrow , elbow grease and a cheap homemade form.

Good to go!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

I've jacked mine up several times to readjust the concrete blocks, you can use bottle jacks (2) to jack up around each block than pour. 2'x2' concrete pad allow it to set than replace the block and release the Jack, if possible dig in the center of each pad a post hole size hole at least 13" deep with a hand spade and allow the concrete to pour into the hole this will act as an ancher to keep the pad from settling.

Here are pictures of my blog the first stages of the addition, all of the outer pads have the holes dug in the center to act as an ancher.

http://lumberjocks.com/Blackie_/blog/54314


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## splatman (Jul 27, 2014)

A jack, a level, some shims, and some blocks. I'm no stranger to untilting tilting buildings. I've even moved a few. If something needs to happen, I just get off my duff and make it happen!


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