# How would you join this using pocket screws



## NeophyteGrant (Jan 2, 2017)

I'm putting together a carcass for a cart, using milled 2×4s. Then I plan to just skin it with some brad-nailed on hardboard and call it a day. I wanted to make the frames and stringers using pocket-screws. I'm no stranger to some of the shifting that can happen with face frames, but what about doing these stringers, perpendicular to the frame.

How do you guys clamp these? Every way I do it with clamping squares seems inefficient and prone to movement when I'm driving the screw. It frustrates me when something so simple eats up time.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

I have one of these https://www.kregtool.com/store/c46/corner-clamps/p461/90-corner-clamp/
After using it , I would never try that joint again without it. The clamp is a bit buggy though, I keep the screws a bit loose and hold it tight until I lock it. But after getting the hang of it, its well worth it if you have to do this often.


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## Davevand (Feb 10, 2016)

I would attach it just as you have it pictured. I use a clamp on the board behind the vertical piece so it will not creep back as I drive the screws


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## diverlloyd (Apr 25, 2013)

I have some angle iron the I clamp to the backside.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I'd use the Kreg right angle clamp.


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## BuffaloBrewer (Feb 28, 2016)

When I need to do something like that I'll clamp a piece of scrap with a few clamps on the left side of the joint and butt the vertical board against it. Much like the angle iron diverlloyd uses.


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## NeophyteGrant (Jan 2, 2017)

Thanks guys. I think I need to refine my finesse-I've tried the angle iron (using one or two clamping squares) or board butted against the back. What's stymied me is the want for the vertical piece to want to pivot or slide to either side. Once I misfire, it'll try to back up into the same misaligned hole, which is always fun. I might need to space the squares to they cover the entire 3 1/4 inche back face and reduce that pivoting.

That 90 degree angle clamp looks like a beaut-going to look into it.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> I would attach it just as you have it pictured. I use a clamp on the board behind the vertical piece so it will not creep back as I drive the screws
> 
> - Davevand


+ simple effective cheap handy


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## Zonker (Oct 22, 2018)

I have actually used a speed square and Quik Grip clamps to do what you describe. In fact I took a cheap plastitic one I had lying around and modified it to work better. I removed the webbing along the fence end and then removed the sawtooth pencil guides along the blade end. Then I made up a block to saddle over where I removed the pencil guides and glued it on. All told I invested about fifteen minutes in it. I will be the first to admit it has quite the *********************************** look, but it works for me.


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## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

I would shoot a couple of 16 gauge by 2-1/2 inch finishing nails to prevent slippage before driving the screws.


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## jtdon (Jan 5, 2017)

I clamp a block, position the vertical board and use it to drill 2 pilot holes with a thin drill bit. When you drive your screws the board will stay lined up.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

This application is where an old fashioned hand screw works well. Like the ones you used in the school shop class. Can be clamped at any angle, and hold solidly. They would even provide some vertical stability.


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## NeophyteGrant (Jan 2, 2017)

Thanks again all. I am going to redo the stringers and use a block and pre-drill like you said, JTdon, so any grab on the screws doesn't throw it off square. The block will reference the front face, then the below setup with clamping squares for 90 degrees and so it doesn't back up on me while drilling the pilots. My other thought was to use clamping squares to position and hold the stringers, then clamp it between the two face frames with parallel clamps to lock it down. Will see which approach is quicker.


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## Mike_D_S (May 3, 2012)

So I don't have a better idea for clamping than the ones you got above, but I do have a tip for getting the screws to drive without shifting the wood.

With softer woods and some hardwoods, when I insert the screw into the pocket, I run the drill in reverse for a bit pressing down a little. This will tend to create a small pilot hole without the aggressive heads driving the screw in.

Then I'll flip the drill to forwards and drive the screws. A lot of the time, this will help with the small motion that sometimes get introduced when you drive the pocket screws in.

Mike


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

For a cart, like you'll be wheeling it around the shop?

Why pocket screws? Why not just screw straight in with 3" construction screws?

Which do you think will be stronger?


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

+1 with rwe2156


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