# lathe question....



## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

I just purchased a one way talon 4 jaw lathe chuck to put on my old craftsman lathe..

Any advice on how to remove this old live center? (Or whatever it's called)










*Edit*

Just hooked it all up did a couple of practice pieces. Everything is looking good


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Jordan is it a friction fit? Is there a hole on the opposite side of the head for a knockout tool? My Jet has a short bar with a knob on one end for lightly tapping such stuff out with a hammer.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

I'm not sure there is a small hole that goes all the way through it.


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

?maybe a cheapo awl that fits through the visible hole in the drive center? and a little prying?

Edit…congrats on the OneWay chuck!


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

Take a piece of wood or all thread a go in the hole at the other end of the headstock and pop the drive center out. You will need to give it a good blow with a hammer.


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

Double post.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

Jordan: look on the opposite side of lathe head. There is probably a hole that goes through the lathe head that allows you to tap the center out from the back of the live center with a steel rod.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

As noted above.

A knock out bar:









http://www.ereplacementparts.com/


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

I took the pull off the opposite side and it appears to be a solid rod on that side.. going to look at it some more..


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

Got it! Thanks everyone for the help.. Mr and wahoo had it right.. I it wasn't solid.. knocked it right out..


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## TerryDowning (Aug 8, 2012)

jordan, that is a spur drive for turning between centers.

The threads on that spindle appear to be 3/4×16 so yo will need the appropriate adapter to match the threading on the chuck.

I have lathe similar to that (a 1939 Dunlap Sears second line after Craftsman) Feel free to PM or email me if you have any more questions.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Does anyone use a washer between the adapter and the head stock?


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

I have one of those lath. It is missing a nut that once you unscrew, it pushes the center piece out. You have a locking device on the side that needs to be turned and pushed in to lock the pulley in place and stop it from turning.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

I have it mounted now. I had already purchased a 3/4 16TPI adapter for the Chuck.
*James* Mine appears to have a large 1/4 thick washer between the threads and the housing where the pulley is located.. It was on there when i purchased it.


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## mpax356 (Jul 30, 2011)

Based on the picture I would say you will want to grind the edges of the spur drive before using. The edges should bite into the wood when struck with a mallet.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I got a 5/16 rod and just slide it through the hole in the shaft. I never tap it with a hammer. I slide it quickly and sharply. I catch the spur in my right hand. I think that puts plenty of force on them without crushing the end of the taper.


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## bamaboy (Jan 28, 2009)

I also have a very old Craftsman lathe. Model #103.23070. Do you know what model your lathe is?


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

I'm not sure what model it is, but i will check and let you know


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## woodbilder (Jun 29, 2011)

As Grandpa says, drive a ¼" or 5/16" rod through the tailstock from the back side. It is a #2 morse taper and will pop out. Tapping it gently or moderately will not hurt the piece. You can not put enough force on it to "crush the taper," not to worry.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

I have no idea what ram's I'm working at its on the second to fastest pulley. Turned a couple practice pieces, I have a lot to learn but I'm super excited about my first practice pieces.
This is my first time to ever use a lathe.. never even seen someone use one in person..


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## Knothead62 (Apr 17, 2010)

Remember that your tools will cost much more than the lathe and chuck. Happy turning!
Look at www.woodturner.org www.woodturner.org for tons of info on turning.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

I just purchased 2 Benjamin's Best tools for a very good price (around $20ea), They seem to be well made tools, Good steel they just are not a very "finished" product.

A little sharpening and a little sanding on the handle and they cut like a dream.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Jordan, here is an inexpensive way to measure the speed of your lathe:






A DIY strobe tachometer that works with regular florescent fixtures.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

Ran into a problem.. 
I've only been turning using the Chuck and short pieces so I haven't engaged the live center on the tail stock.

Here is how I discovered my issue. I cut a square block to make a pipe I found center on the face using calipers (my centering was accurate down to 1000th of an inch according to the digital calipers) I used a Forster bit and drilled the bowl about half way down.. chucked it up and started turning (chuck is self centering by the way) half way through I noticed my drilled hole was not centered in the round shape I turned. I grabbed a fresh unbridled square block and chucked it up, engaged the live center on the tail stock









Pushed in barely into the wood (1/32) deep, gave the lathe a turn by hand. With this result…....









The live center cut a perfectly round little circle about 1/2" in diameter.. 
Here is another photo of my lathe setup… I am completely at a loss.









HELP!!!!


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

Also based on my calipers that perfect little 1/2" circle is perfectly centered.. sigh…..


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

First pic is too dark to make out but while the jaws are self centering you are only using 2 of them so the wood block will not necessarily be centered on all points.

Use your tailstock and drill bit to line up the original block for your chuck jaws.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

I don't have a chuck for the tail stock yet. I have to pop out that live center and see what size Jacobs taper I'm going to need..

When turning a pipe you only turn the top half of the bowl and you have to remove 2 jaws to accommodate the shank of the pipe.
It should be centered from one direction, then I take my calipers and measure from the very edge of the jaws to the edge of my wood to center it the other direction..


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Yeah but the hole has to be aligned with the axis of rotation, a little off and it shows. Since you already drilled the hole, easiest way is use the tailstock to align it.

Tailstock taper should be the same as the headstock, usually a #1 on older Craftsman.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Jordan-Just curious … with the spur drive center in the headstock and the live center in the tailstock, the two points should line up. Have you checked this?


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

I did about 8-9 months ago when i first purchased it. I'm going to check that when i get back to the house today..


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

The tail piece is missing the center pin. These are designed to come out and based on the picture, it is clear that the pin is missing. Mine comes out every now and then when I try go get the wood out.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Well, I see the pin on the first picture, but no hole in the center of 2nd picture. O.K. I see what happened, the pin got caught on the wood and knocked it out of balance. I would make sure the pin is firmly in the wood before you turn it on.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

There is a Pin in the tail stock its very small.. bad picture to boot.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

the pin carves a circle instead of lining up and spinning..


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

That being the case, it sounds like you headstock/tailstock alignment is way off. If they were properly aligned the spur in the live center would be dead-center with the drive spur in the tailstock. Someone that knows this model lathe may be able to help.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

TheDane is right. My tail end movers front and back a lot that's why I bring the tail end close to the block, lock it in place, turn the black rim until the pin goes in the wood. The turn it on and continue screwing the pin-in. then lock that. Make sure the groove on the tail-pin is engaged with the locking device.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

He is not using spur drives. Unless I misunderstand the situation, it's not the tailstock alignment. This is would be easier to show than explain but it goes back to what I said earlier, the center of the wood block (or pre-drilled hole) needs to be aligned with the axis of rotation.

edited for clarity: basically your wood block is off center which is why the pre-drilled hole is not centered. I don't believe the ring cut by your dead center is an alignment problem either but most likely the point is in there crooked or the wood block is canted.

Also, is your headstock pulley on backwards? I'm not familiar with this model lathe but your index ring is facing the outboard side of the headstock, opposite my Craftsman. It might be correct on that model, I don't know.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

First off thanks again for all the help guys..

The problem has been temporary solved until I build a permanent base for the lathe.

This is the bane of my existance.









When it's tightened all the way it twists the tail stock off center.
And raises the mount up off the table surface on one side. I tried installing it every way possible. Same result.

So I shimed under the mounts in a few different spots. Then bolted everything back down.

Alignment before…..









Alignment after….









Results….










If anyone has experience with this type of tail mount. Possibly there is a real tricky way of setting the bolt and square nut in a particular way while installing it? Im all ears..

Thanks again..


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

Rick I was centering the tail stock in the bowl bore and pushing it in to the jaws to align center so my bowl bore was symmetrical with the turned area around it.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

There is a bar under the big shaft that the tail travels on. See if the bar is missing some bolts that hold it together or is possibly bent.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

Not missing a single one. And straight as an arrow..


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Then maybe the locking system or wear out. The picture you provided is when the tail end is locked? I will take some pictures of mine to do some comparison and hopefully come up with a solution.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

Yes it is locked.. it all has to do with that tail mount and my table surface I'm sure of it.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Well the only things that controls the movement of that tail piece are the large pipe that it travels on and the guide bar that keep it in place. Will take look at it tomorrow after work. I like to keep mine forever, so, this might be an good investigation for me as well.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)




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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

So, here is the picture of mine where the end piece is locked.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

And here is the picture moving it by hand towards me.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Away from me.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

I moved the mane pipe from left to right and it did not make much of difference.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)




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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)




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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)




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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Here is a brass at the bottom of the locking key.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

And a brass piece for the locking part. Be sure to re-insert it properly as it has a "head" that goes only one way due to it travelling on the main shaft.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

After adjusting this brass screw, I almost didn't have any play on the end piece.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Then I realized that I still had a "play" because some of the screws were loose on the guide bar. I'll fix that when I need to. Hope this help you fine tune this old tool. I bought mine brand new and hope to keep it for as long as I can.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

I would order these brass parts as my orders for some of these 20+ years old tools parts have been back ordered for several weeks so far.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

Is that brass screw on the tail stock? What exactly is that tightening?

I will look for it on mine in the morning..

Also the could you explain the steps you took to re attach the pole mount on the right end of the pipe. Mine looks just like yours does. And that was, what gave me the most problems..

Do people normally turn pieces of wood chucked up and with the tail stock engaged? All the videos I've been watching all ways show them using two points unless they are turning a bowl/cup etc..

When I have a short piece in the Chuck 4-6" long without the tail stock engaged my lathe hums so soft you can hold a conversation.. but when I engage the point on the tail stock even after I lined everything up it become very loud (rumbling)

Would you mind sharing a wide photo of your lathe setup?

Thanks for all the help.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

The humming must be due to alignment issue. I don't have a chuck but from what I've seen you don't have to use the tail piece with a chuck unless you want to use it to drill a hole in the piece. All the photos are the tail piece and the brass screw is at the bottom near the guide away from you. The other brass is inside the tail piece attached inserted to the locking screw that tightens the tail. There is a bolt that holds the pole mount. Unscrew it and lift on the pole and the piece that is inserted in the pol should come out ( may need to loosen some of the screws on the other side where the motor is). Then the tail piece should slide right out with all the holding screw lose. Watch for that brass piece inside as it may fall off upon removal.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

In my opinion I would advise you to get a new multi spur drive centre .And if you can afford it get a good one they last ages probably do you for the rest of your life.Make sure you but the same taper fitting it will likely be a morse taper 1 2 or 3 .Alistair


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I'm starting to understand why people hate those tube lathes so much, I would never have guessed the tailstock could get so far out of alignment. Remove the tube and make dedicated disc sander sander.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

I've been using it. And so far so good. It just gets a little noisy with the tail engaged.. going to work on it a bit more..
Only paid $100 and it had never been used. The motor and pulleys were still in the packages..


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

here is the entire picture of what the lathe looks like. It is an excellent tool for its time.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

Thanks for the photo.. looks like they are kin to each other.

I'm going to investigate mine a little further tomorrow.

I will update you then on what I find..


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