# A basketball question? You sure you got the right place mister?



## tullochmurray (Mar 28, 2011)

My father-in-law purchased a used portable basketball hoop for myself and my three boys. It seems well built and in good shape except it is missing the backboard. I'm considering 3/4" plywood, painted white with several coats of an exterior wood sealer. And maybe run some vinyl counter top edging around it (the type that inserts into a kerf on the edge) to help keep out the weather. I was originally considering the inexpensive sheathing plywood. But it occurs to me that I'm sure I can find a use in the shop for the leftover if I went with baltic birch.

I'm not sure how I will attach it. Don't want bolt heads sticking out all around the edge. Counter sunk flat-heads probably simplest.

Would be happy to have suggestions on:

sealer
will baltic birch or other plywood hold up - other material options (don't think I can afford acrylic)
options for trimming the edge
attaching board to frame

Or any other suggestions. Hope I've supplied enough detail. Sorry, no pictures.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts-


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## darinS (Jul 20, 2010)

I don't know if this will be much help, but when my Dad attached a basketball rim to the garage he just used some plywood he had laying around, painted it (not sure with what, I wasn't there at the time he did this), and then attached it to the garage roof with some angle iron (L shaped) bent to match the roof line and perpendicular to the ground. He just used bolts (not countersunk) down low on the backboard (one on each side) and way towards the top. This way there is less chance of the basketball hitting the bolt heads and gong off in weird directions.

I hope I have explained this clearly enough. If not, please feel free to ask more questions and I'll see what I can do.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

MDO…Medium density overlay. Comes in 4 X 8 sheets. It's made to be used outdoors, in fact signmakers use it. It stands up well to the weather. Big lumberyards have it. The 'overlay' part is a resin-impregnated paper.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

Seems to me, somewhere back in my brain, that it may take more thickness than 3/4 inch to get the proper bounce. It is kinda like this foldup full size pingpong table my Dad made back in the '40's for my brother and I. He just used 1/4" ply on top, and the balls didn't bounce as much as on thicker tables.

I really don't know the proper thickness for basketball, but I am sure it is out there somewhere. If I have some time I will Google it…......at work now.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

I think on my hoop the backboard attaches to the stand using the same bolt holes that hold the hoop on. It is a free standing model.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

Googled the thickness thing, 1/2 inch, but of glass or fiberglass or steel. Don't know how that equates to wood. The key is how the ball bounces off of the backboard, it should bounce right back at you. 
Think I would go with 3/4 inch plywood as a minimum, braced in back quite a bit. Two glued 3/4" pieces would be better, I would think, but weigh a ton. Oh well, depends on what your players demand…........(-:


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## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

I would use exterior grade plywood as the glue is waterproof, if sealed well I guess it wouldn't matter.
I just think it would be better to use exterior grade in exterior application


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## tullochmurray (Mar 28, 2011)

Thanks all for your help.

Jim, Thanks for taking the time to google. It had occurred to me that stiffness should be a consideration as backboards are usually acrylic (I think) or sometimes metal. I am also a little concerned about weight as this is one of those portable jobs. It's held secure by a plastic tub filled with sand or water. I'll fill the tub up and then decide how much weight I can get away with. And your point about "what your players demand" is well taken. My boys are 10, 7 and 4 and the youngest is more likely to climb up the pole than to throw a basketball at it. I'll get it upright and see how much weight it can stand.

Poopiekat, MDO sounds interesting. I need to locate some new sources for wood anyway. I'm new to this and have been relying on the big box stores for wood supply. They've been disappointing in selection and quality. I'll read up a bit on MDO and, if it's also suitable for a drill press table (one of the items on my "should get soon list") that may be the direction I go.

Bubinga, you make a very logical point. And failing the MDO, or Baltic birch, I may just buy a half sheet of exterior plywood and be done with it.

And I'm not sure which direction I'll go for securing the board the the frame. Need to take a closer look at the frame. Right now I'm thinking l-brackets.

Thanks again all. You've been a big help. Much appreciated. I'll report back upon completion in case any of you are interested. With pictures.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

Yes, we need pictures…....(-:

My Dad made my brother, and incidentally me, a backboard and attached the hoop on the back of our garage. It was not the standard stiffness, but we played basketball on ice and snow, in rain and heat. The fun factor was more important than anything else. We used to chop the ice off of the driveway in late winter, when we couldn't wait for it to all melt. That board was put up in the late '40's….........


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## john339 (Apr 11, 2011)

I read the comment about the ping pong table, you might be better off using one, Im sure there are cheap ones or free ones on Craigslist in your area. the thickness or a ping pong table would give you a good bounce and stiffness needed.


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