# Keyhole slot - error



## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

I am not sure what went wrong with this keyhole slot cut I attempted last weekend. I was placing the board down on the bit, making the entry hole, when something went wrong and the piece went shooting off the router table to the left. As you can see it is not a clean entry! Was it a matter of my holding the piece incorrectly?...or the size of the piece? I have made a slot in a similar size piece but am thinking I just did not have firm, even pressure when I lowered the wood down into the router bit. 
No injury, just one of those "I need to step away" moments. I don't want that experience again so thought I would seek input from the LJ.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I always drill an entry hole at the drill press first. I know the bit manufacturers claim you can drop the workpiece onto a spinning bit, but it's not safe on a small workpiece.

Try drilling a hole first.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

I hadn't thought about drilling an entry spot. Thank you for that advice. Do you drill an oversized hole compared to the size of the router bit?

When setup and done correctly, I have had good success and like the clean look. This is a similar size frame that went well…












> I always drill an entry hole at the drill press first. I know the bit manufacturers claim you can drop the workpiece onto a spinning bit, but it s not safe on a small workpiece.
> 
> Try drilling a hole first.
> 
> - pintodeluxe


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Also, using a straight or spiral bit, rout the slot first. Then when you do the keyhole part (the top of the T), the smooth part of the shank will ride in the slot, and the bit won't have so much trouble in clearing chips


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

Hmm never had an issue. What was your speed setting on? Did it maybe get turned down low? On small parts i will usually do it after assembly so i have more meat to grab onto and leverage. And i am guessing the fence is only that far apart to remove your insert for photo?


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

did you hold the piece with both hands to lower it "straight down" onto the bit ?
uneven force going down, not holding the piece firmly to the fence, dull cutter, 
small piece, all can be an issue. making the starter hole with the drill press will help.
firm, even pressure and secure hold on the piece is a must.

.

.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

> Also, using a straight or spiral bit, rout the slot first. Then when you do the keyhole part (the top of the T), the smooth part of the shank will ride in the slot, and the bit won t have so much trouble in clearing chips
> 
> - runswithscissors


Clearing the chips can be an issue. This technique would help with that. I do worry about getting everything lined up with multiple passes. Thank you for the suggestion.



> Hmm never had an issue. What was your speed setting on? Did it maybe get turned down low? On small parts i will usually do it after assembly so i have more meat to grab onto and leverage. And i am guessing the fence is only that far apart to remove your insert for photo?
> 
> - SMP


Not sure of the speed. I had done some others in hickory earlier in the weekend with no problem. I agree that waiting until the frame is assembled would likely be wiser for better control. The fence was in that position - should I have it closed? Guess there is no benefit for the vacuum anyway so the solid fence would be better. Thanks for the additional items to consider.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

> did you hold the piece with both hands to lower it "straight down" onto the bit ?
> uneven force going down, not holding the piece firmly to the fence, dull cutter,
> small piece, all can be an issue. making the starter hole with the drill press will help.
> firm, even pressure and secure hold on the piece is a must.
> ...


It all happened so fast but I think the most likely is not having a good firm hold for that "plunge" down onto the bit. I used both hands but the piece was small so guessing my ability to provide even pressure was compromised. Thank you for the additional insights. I love the look of the keyholes so hope to get my technique perfected.


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## TarHeelz (Sep 13, 2012)

NVM. I wasn't writing anything you hadn't already considered.


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## GrantA (Jul 19, 2014)

I've only ever used a plunge router for keyhole slots, not sure I'd want to lower a small piece like that onto it in the table!


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

That is an awful small piece to be slotting. If it were in the frame, it would be much easier to control. I always drill a hole with a forstner bit first and drop the keyhole bit in there and move along a straight edge if I'm using a hand held router. I do small piece like that in the milling machine where the vise has complete control of that small of a piece. I'd never try to drop that small of a piece onto a bit in the router table.

Cheers, Jim


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I'm guessing the problem stems from the small size of the piece and not being able to hold it steady as you lower it. Perhaps consider using a different type of hanger for small frames would be a simple solution.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

And close the opening on the fence.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Thanks for all the comments and kind suggestions. Closing up the fence, drilling a hole for the router bit, and simply not trying this on small pieces (assembly of the frame would have given a better platform to guide/hold in this situation) are on the list for the next weekend project. Still on the beginning side of the learning curve when it comes to woodworking so I appreciate the responses.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Another way to hold small work safely is to clamp it with one of the big old fashioned hand screws (the kind you had in high school shop). They hold very strongly, and are big enough to provide a solid handhold. Works on router table, table saw, and bandsaw.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> Another way to hold small work safely is to clamp it with one of the big old fashioned hand screws (the kind you had in high school shop). They hold very strongly, and are big enough to provide a solid handhold. Works on router table, table saw, and bandsaw.
> 
> - runswithscissors


I was reading through thinking this same thought. I use them frequently whenever the parts get small on both the router, and the bandsaw, sometimes even the belt sander. I do not use them on the TS though, there they would go onto a sled, and could be clamped onto that.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

I had considered that, but given the shape didn't see how to clamp. Hindsight, but if I had waited to assemble the frame first, likely would have gone ok.



> Another way to hold small work safely is to clamp it with one of the big old fashioned hand screws (the kind you had in high school shop). They hold very strongly, and are big enough to provide a solid handhold. Works on router table, table saw, and bandsaw.
> 
> - runswithscissors
> 
> ...


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

The picture frames that I have put key holes in, were done after the frame was put together, let the glue cured for 24 hours, and then lower onto the key hole bit on the router table using the fence as a guide. making the cut with both hands, then turning off the router table by pressing the off switch with my leg. after off then slide the bit back out. I've had no issues this way.. Looks like you tried doing the cut with the ends already mitered. It's a little difficult to lay it down flat to the bit with the ends premitered.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

I agree - assembled would have likely gone just fine. I should have listened to that whisper in my head that this was a questionable procedure given the size of the piece. As noted before on this forum, it was the end of the day and I wanted to get one more step done…yep, always walk away when time starts to impact decisions. Thankfully no injury, and I'm thinking I can salvage the frame if I do some creative drilling to "cover" the ripped opening.



> The picture frames that I have put key holes in, were done after the frame was put together, let the glue cured for 24 hours, and then lower onto the key hole bit on the router table using the fence as a guide. making the cut with both hands, then turning off the router table by pressing the off switch with my leg. after off then slide the bit back out. I ve had no issues this way.. Looks like you tried doing the cut with the ends already mitered. It s a little difficult to lay it down flat to the bit with the ends premitered.
> 
> - WoodenDreams


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## BFamous (Jan 26, 2018)

> I always drill an entry hole at the drill press first. I know the bit manufacturers claim you can drop the workpiece onto a spinning bit, but it s not safe on a small workpiece.
> 
> Try drilling a hole first.
> 
> - pintodeluxe


This is a great tip!


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