# (Question) Hard Maple Woodworking bench top



## TomHoffman (Jun 27, 2011)

I acquired a 3" thick X 8' long X 32" wide commercial kitchen prep table top. It is solid hard maple laid face to face on their edges with solid 3/4 dowels through them every foot along the edge.

Because it was used, it did have use wear and it was cupped out where cans were run over the top by the permanently mounted can openers on either end.

I got it off the rusted rotted legs and got all the hardware off it and took it in to a Commercial WW shop in town and between 4 men we ran it through their big commercial sander till the top was true and flat.

I had stored it for 4 years till just this past week to finally get on it for a project.

It was stored on edge and over several years, the edges and ends picked up some black mold spotting I would like to get off. I tried sanding and it is too deep. I tried bleach, no luck.

I would appreciate any help in getting the mold gone. The top has no mold as we sanded it down 1/4" so now it is 2 3/4" thick.

Ideas???


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## RichardHillius (Oct 19, 2013)

I would probably just rip off 1/4" to 1/2" off each edge to get to clean wood unless you really want those dimensions for something.

A track saw or circular saw with guide would be the best way in my shop. I don't have the room, muscle or big machines needed to move a heavy slab like that to my machines. You can get both sides as close as possible than clean them up with a plane or a router with a long pattern bit.


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## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

Maybe wood bleach will remove it. aka Oxalic Acid


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## TomHoffman (Jun 27, 2011)

Ripping off the edge would be a good idea, except I don't have a circular saw with a blade that will do 2 3/4" It is two heavy to put over my 10" TS and my radial arm ripping table is only 12" wide. I may just take a hand power plane to it.

Where can I get Wood Bleach? I will have to check on Amazon…


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

If you have a router, you could do it in a multi-step approach. Put a rabbetting bit on, and set the cutter depth to half the depth of the top, and run a groove down the side (may need to adjust the bit height and make a second pass to widen the groove). Put a flush-trim bit on, line the bearing up with the groove, and trim it flush. The only downside is you'll have to flip the top over and run the flush trim bit again, but if you have an extra set of hands it should be do-able.

It'll take a bit more time (make light passes), but it will work.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

What about using a router? Make it in a few passes, each one a little deeper, then flip it over and finish the edge with a flush trim bit. I do have to admit,if you have a hand power planer that would be a good way.


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## TomHoffman (Jun 27, 2011)

Flipping over is a great idea problem is it weighs over 300 lbs and I am by myself.


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## ElChe (Sep 28, 2014)

I buy oxalic acid (wood bleach) in powder/crystal form at my local paint store. Or a decking supply place may have it as it is diluted and used to clean decks. I wouldn't rip it unless absolutely necessary. Mix the oxalic acid with water and then spray it on the mold and see if it works. I've cleaned some pretty grimy decks with it. It might bleach the maple a bit but I think there is a good chance it will get rid of the mold.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Is the mold in the end grain or are the ends breadboarded? If there's breadboards and the mold is in face grain all the way around, I'd go at it with a handplane. Endgrain makes that a less likely possibility. Especially if it's changing direction.

Otherwise, I'd combine Richard and BinghamtonEd's suggestions. I'd use the circular saw to cut a groove in the top side as deep as the blade allows about 1/4" in from the edge. Then take a chisel and knock off the excess so you basically have a 1/4" notch out. Then you can take the router with a flush trim bit and use it from the bottom of the table with the bearing riding on the surface left by the circ. saw. Not much fun running a router upside down, but still doable. Or, if you have,or can get, a pattern bit (bottom bearing) that's long enough, you can do the same thing but run the router from the top of the table.

Or, you could just borrow TomWhisker's circular saw.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Just hand plane the edges and trim the ends.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Just use it. The mold is a minor issue unless you're gonna be lickin' on the bench top.
My bench is from a bowling alley lane. No tellin' how much crap was on it, but with 15+ years of careful loving use, it is just as good as new.
Don't over think the project. You'll have many more issues about which to worry. Sharp planes, chisels, bench dog holes, hold fasts, and more.
Oil the crap (no pun) out of it. Put the top to work. You're one lucky feller to have it. 
Bill


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## TomHoffman (Jun 27, 2011)

Thanks Bill,

I was just on the phone with an RC Sailboat friend and he asked me the big question, can I use my Zyliss vices on it?

I can't as the top is too thick, so I am going to edge it with 1 1/2 X 1 1/2" Maple and that will cover the top 1 1/2" of the side and then I won't able to see the lower part any more anyway.

We both build wood RC Sailboats for kicks.

Regards…


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## rustfever (May 3, 2009)

You state the piece has dowels @ 12" OC. Are those dowels or steel rods with dowel plugs? I believe some cutting table tops are held together with steel rods/bolts. Before I would try to cut, I would check for [ss?] bolts.


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## TomHoffman (Jun 27, 2011)

That's a good idea, I hadn't thought about that at all. I am leaning toward just adding a ledge strip 1.5"X1.5" on the edge all the way around so my Zyliss Vice clamps have something to clamp on to, that way I won't have to drill holes for dogs or mount side and end vises.

Tom…


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## ThomasChippendale (Nov 6, 2015)

Like my workbench, built in 1984:










The strip is 2 X 4 maple and the top made of 2, 4 X 12 maple beams bolted together.


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## ThomasChippendale (Nov 6, 2015)




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## TomHoffman (Jun 27, 2011)

WOW that is nice. I like your legs. I have to use my garage, so I just shot my legs together with a framing nailer and mounted 6" swivel/locking caster wheels on the bottom so I can move it out of the way and get my truck in for the night. I have always had large work/assembly tables in the shop, this is the first one that is really a hand tool bench.

Tom…


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## ThomasChippendale (Nov 6, 2015)

Found 3 pieces of maple in Manotic 4 inches thick, 12 inches wide, 10 ft long. Used two for the top and cut up the third to make the legs, all bolted-up with tie-rods. Must weight around 500 pounds.


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## ThomasChippendale (Nov 6, 2015)




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