# Help with type of wood for workbench top?



## Tugboat706

I'm getting ready to begin work on a for-real wooodworking bench, want to go with gluing planks together to build up a thick, solid-feeling top. Trick is, I live in rural southeastern Georgia where there are precious few places to get more than what Lowes or Home Despot sells. The Lowes in town has red oak, poplar, and pine, and some stuff labelled 'white wood'. They also have some very very knot-ridden cedar.

I'm new to 'real' wood working, and I'm not sure what type of wood is a good choice for the workbench top. I have a 6" joiner, a tablesaw, a bandsaw, and a big-ole planer (someone gave it to me, it weighs a LOT, haven't used it yet).

Any advice on what wood I should go with will be gratefully accepted. Thanks!

previous work is mostly making wooden warship models from plywood with a scrollsaw, and a bookcase that is functional but not pretty (relegated to the shop


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## ssnvet

If you're going to build an heirloom type of bech, I'd make the trip into the city to buy hard maple.

But there are plenty of guys around here who have laminated up bench tops from construction grade SPF (spruce-pine-fir) that is readilly available from any lumberyard or big-box home center. If you pick straight grained 2x boards that have minimal knots, you can knock the slightly rounded edges off when you join them. If this is to be a "first" bench and skill building project, I think that's a viable option. You'll get a heavy solid bench. Simply not one that will be hard (resist dents and dings).

Poplar is a non-coniferous tree, so it's technically a "hard wood", but it's softer and lighter than many softwoods. So I'm not sure I'd pay a premium to use it on a bench.

All the oak at the big box stores in these parts is milled into 1x (3/4") boards…. and they are way overpriced. So I'd make the trip to a hardwood lumber dealer b4 I paid a premium for 1x red oak.


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## jmos

To paraphrase Chris Schwarz; big, dry, and cheap. Anything can work just fine. Is there anything you can get in thicker/larger sizes; 4×4, 4×6, 6×6 (I'd avoid pressure treated though, but some have used that as well)

Schwarz raves about southern yellow pine; I thought you were in a good part of the world for that; might even be the white wood at the big box store.

Lots use sheet goods for the top; a few layers of MDF or plywood can make a good top. I used LVL with some maple banding for mine. (in my blog if you're interested)

Don't use wet, or poorly dried wood. And thicker boards can reduce your workload (gets tedious milling and laminating .75" boards)


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## Tugboat706

Definately a skill-building project  But at the same time it'd be nice for it to hold up for 5 or 6 years  The nearest 'big city' to me is Savannah, GA, I'll have to see if there is a lumberyard that I could use in the area.

I'll look at your blog jmos, thanks


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ What John says re: SYP. The big stores you mentioned will have SYP in your area as larger 2x material (2×10s and/or 2×12) and will work great. Good luck!


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## thedude50

If I lived where you do and if this is a bench you want to look good and to preform well I would go with Southern Yellow pine. IT SHOULD BE PURCHASED KILN DRIED AND IN 2X12 12' LENGTH THIS WILL YIELD THE STUFF YOU WILL NEED AT A Great price. Other than this affordable choice any Maple will be fine. I love the silver Maple I am using to build my benches with it machines much better than hard maple and is easier on the tools than the hard maple or ipie. The classic choice is beach, but I suggest you get the syp it is cheep and it is strong and it looks great. I was going to drive to Texas to get me some then A LJ named John Ormsby sold me some Maple thanks to Medic Ken and the rest is history. The Schwarz made his French Bench out of Syp so Syp does not suck.


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## lysdexic

Clark, I'd check your sources in Savannah. When it comes to the choices at Lowes, I'd avoid anything other than SYP. I have stared at the stacks of 2×12's and decided culling and process that crap was not worth it. I never really saw the clear dry SYP 2×12's that people talk about. It was always knotty and wet. However, my lowes has nice 5/4 SYP over by the hardwood section but not in the big stacks of lumber. That SYP is good picking but it is expensive and at 5/4 will take alot of work.

If you can find kiln dried SYP 4×4s or 6×6" that would be ideal.

Hard maple is a popular choice but around here is $5 -6/bdft. I went with a common soft maple (which is still hard BTW) at $3/ bd ft.

Let us know what you decide.


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## Tugboat706

So many choices  I've been going through the huge 'Workbench smack down' thread and looking at people's benches. There are a lot of really nice benches. I see a few that are like SSNVet mentioned with an MDF laminated top. I'm not sure what MDF is, but does it hold up well? (Be gentle, I'm new to anything beyond aircraft birch ply and whitewood 

Another question: I understand dog holes and what they're for, but I've seen round and square ones; does the shape matter?


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## lysdexic

Round vs Square. Ford vs Chevy. Apple vs PC. In the end I don't think it matters. But basically…...

Round holes are easier to install and can be installed into a bench as a retrofit. You can drill a 3/4" anywhere, no? There are more after market accessories that fit round holes. Some are concerned that they may go out of round over time.

Square holes are harder to install and pretty much have to be done during the initial build. The dogs are easy to make and replace. They hold you work square. They are considered more traditional which some consider "cool."

Clark - if you are heading into a bench build, I and many others will recommend you read the workbench design book by Christopher Schwarz.


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## jmos

Clark, MDF is wood fiber and glue. Man made product, very flat and stable (doesn't expand or contract much). Very heavy. Not very expensive. The standard stuff does not like water; even a little and it will swell. There is a version that is coated with something, I believe it's used in concrete forms. It will hold up pretty well ,and if you build the bench right, you can replace the top sheet when it gets too beat.

lysdexic nailed the dog response; not much to add. I went round for ease and convenience, but the square are pretty nifty too. He also nailed the Schwarz recommendation. I recommend his latest book (maroon cover), he covers more bench types and styles than in the first book. I hear the first book is also excellent, so I don't think you can go wrong.


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## richgreer

My bench is quite novel. The surface is bamboo flooring. It is very hard, stable and durable surface. I have 2 layers of MDF under the flooring. The second layer is probably overkill.

I invite you to see a picture in my shop pictures on this site.

I mention this because it is an option you could probably pursue at your local Lowes or Home Depot.


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## sixstring

Built mine using melamine, and while it's fine for now and I had it available at the time, I plan on upgrading to something beefier like you mentioned. So I found this guy on Craigslist selling bowling alley/lane material for $15 per linear ft. It's 2.5" thick maple and should require no additional finish on the top. Solid, reclaimed goodness that will get the job done in spades.

Another thought is to use a solid core door but as you mentioned it's a skill builiding thing… then it's like cheating I guess. I avoid buying wood from the big box stores though, mostly cuz I'm cheap but also because the quality can be a crapshoot. You can find tons and tons of free wood available that would otherwise end up in landfills. With enough pallets, you could laminate yourself a killer bench so there's another option.


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## Tugboat706

I have two solid core doors that I got from an old house that was being demolished. No idea what kind of wood they are, but they'll get used for something someday. I do intend the workbench to be a learning project. So far in a few days on this site, I've learned a great deal and gotten some good ideas, too.


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## AandCstyle

Clark, based on the machines you have it sounds like you are serious about woodworking. If that is the case, you will need to develop a relationship with a hardwood supplier at some point in time. Check out woodfinder.com to see if there are any retailers close to you. Otherwise, you will need to use mail order sites to get decent stock for projects. Regarding your bench project, I agree that MDF (medium density fiberboard) would be a good choice for your bench top. I would seal it to avoid the potential for water damage and would wrap it with a hardwood for aesthetic reasons. HTH


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## crank49

My bench top is 4 layers of 3/4" sandply plywood. The 7 lamination type. I have a sacrificial (and replacable) Hardboard top and then a 3/4×4" band of maple around the edge. This thing is a beast and looks good as well.

I think SYP would be great as well. I know The Schwarz recommends buying 2×12 stock because, in theory, the best material is milled into this size. When I look at what's in my local HD I see the best, tightest grain, and straightest stuff is 2×6 x 16 ft. These are usually used for rafters and therefore they try to stock straight, relatively knot free lumber for this application. In any case you will need to rip it down to about 4 inches for a bench top.


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## Greg3G

I would send or call the guys at Highland Woodworking. Their store is in Atlanta but I would think that they have a few customers from your area and may know of a good wood dealer in your area. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/ is the url to their site. They also have an great newsletter you can sign up for. They have a good selection of selection of accessories.

If you decide to go with the laminated solid wood top, I would recommend that you glue up in sections narrow enough to make through your planer. You can then use dowels or even biscuits to help align the sections when you do the final glue up. They won't provide any additional strength but will help keep things lined up.

I personally would use a threaded rod or bench bolts to connect the stretchers on the base. That way you can tighten it back up if it starts to loosen in the future.

I agree with most people in that it doesn't really matter what you build it out of…it just needs to be heavy…BUT if you do use MDF, seal it with something. I had an MDF top and it doesn't take much moisture to cause it to swell and that will be a problem. I speak from experience on that one.

I would also recommend taking the vises you plan on using into account when you design the bench. Going heavy is a good idea here as well.

Good luck on your adventure and keep us updated on your progress.

Greg


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## WDHLT15

Clark,

Come see me. I have all the wood that you need. I have pecan, red oak, white oak, maple, walnut, etc. I have a sawmill and cut hardwood lumber off of my property. I use a lot of it, but I also sell some to local woodworkers. I will send you a personal message. I am located between Perry and Hawkinsville in Middle GA.


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## lysdexic

Clark,

Looks like things are looking up! You have been on LJ's two days and look how fast your resources have expanded!

Good people.


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## thedude50

dude you have a chance at a really fine bench i would not skimp on this i would do a solid design like mine or scots or rob cosmans dont skimp if you do your going to hate your bench make it big as you can make it special. make the top at least 3 and preferably 4 inches thick I am doing the bob lang 21st century bench scot is doing a roubo and there are other great benches but if you skimp out remember what i told you and i will be saying i told you so.


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## rockindavan

Do you have a somewhat decent workbench now? If not you may be better off building a quick bench with 2×4's and 3 or so layers of plywood for the top. Slap a quick release vise on it and call it finished. You can make it more of an assembly table once you build a "real" workbench. Building a workbench takes a workbench.


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## Tugboat706

My current workbench is not a woodworking work bench, it's just a thing I threw together from old 2X10's to do boat work on. From the perspective of aspiring to do good woodwork, it's embarassing, but from the perspective of it met the need it was built for, it's okay


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## thedude50

have you read chis Schwartz book yet did you order it and have you picked a design


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## lalon86

I know don't apply some kind of sealer your furniture's wood will be dried-out and lifeless and who has woodworking projects they knows this plan and Stain and a finish are two entirely different things.


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## Tugboat706

I had to wait for payday (today!) to order the Schwartz book. I'm on Amazon right now, a nd there are two Schwartz books on workbenches. One is: 'The Workbench Design Book: The Art & Philosophy of Building Better Benches', and the other is 'Workbenches: From Design And Theory To Construction And Use'. Which one is the one I want to buy, if I'm only getting one on this paycheck?

On the wood-search front, I've been trading emails with Danny who has been very helpful to someone new to actual woodworking. Hopefully this weekend I'll be getting the beginnings of my bench loaded into my pickup  The choices are oak, maple, and pecan. From famine, to feast


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## ssnvet

Hey again Clark,

Though I think "the Dude" makes a good point, and I respect his work and knowledge, I'm going to suggest that you go for a modest design (and put some money into a good face vise). You can certainly get a lot done, as long as you have…

1. a solid, stiff and dead flat top.
2. study legs and bracing that alllow you to pound and push without the bench flexing
3. a good face vise to securely hold a work piece, and some bench dogs.

I specifically suggest you DON'T try to build an "old world" style bench with complicated tail vise assembly, etc.. as your first big project, for two reasons….

1. you might get bogged down in a very complicated project, get discouraged and not finish it.
2. many of these designs are foucused on the use of hand planes…. which, while great to have and know how to use, many woodworkers don't really use that often (there's a reason why we have all these machines right?)

Once you get a good sized and rugged bench and put a few projects under your belt, then you can take on an "old world" bench if you feel you really want one.

In the final analysis…. you'll never be sorry you have more than one workbench :^)


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## HerbC

Clark,

Danny will treat you right. I've known him online for several years and he's good people.

I'd suggest the maple for the top and oak for the legs/frame. Get a little bit of hickory to use as accents, perhaps the jaws of a vice or something simular…

Good Luck and

Be Careful!

Herb


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I can certainly recommend the Blue workbenches book, its the one I have. The Red one shows more different types of benches, I understand, and was in response to that type of criticism of the first book. The blue book is centered on ways to hold stuff to work faces, edges and ends, and has full plans for a roubo bench as well as an english bench. If you know you want a roubo-type bench, it will serve you well.

Others can chime in on Red book specifics…


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## crank49

I have the second book. I liked the treatment of seven different types of benches and the reasons for their design. I got mine through Lee Valley for about $10 less than the published price. Lee Valley is a great company to get to know wheather you buy your books there of not.


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## Tugboat706

I'm heading over to Danny's place on Saturday to start making this workbench a reality. I'll post on here when I know what wood I've decided on (with his help, of course!). I added some info on what tools I have in the shop to My Workshop on here.


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## WDHLT15

Herb,

Thanks for the kind words! Good to see that the storm did not blow you away…....

This type of project is fun because there is a myriad of possibilities. My work bench is 100% my own design and it has been a real work horse.


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## rockindavan

If you want a "real" workbench, be prepared to make it a full on project. If you are hoping to get it done quick and start on some new projects its not worth spending a lot of money. But if you are willing to spend some time and money, you will be satisfied in the end. My bench is over a year and a half in the making and I love every minute of it, well almost excluding the mistake days.


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## Tugboat706

I got in the door from a run over to Danny's place. It's like a toy store for wood workers  He gave me a lot of guidance and showed me a bunch of stuff, bth on his workbench, and on the wood he had. I wound up going with white oak for the table top and the base. He had 4 nice slabs a bit over 2" thick, 9.5" wide, and 8 feet long. Those are going to be the top and the legs. I also got some 4/4 white oak for the stretchers and random other pieces  He had some extra cedar (smelled real nice) that will be going to make sides for drawers. He also showed me his sawmill, which for someone who loves all things mechanical (like me) was a real treat. The guy loves wood and wood working. Definately someone I'm happy to know and work with. Saw a bunch of cool stuff like big pieces of pecan stacked up, and walnut and more oak. Definately like a toy store  
I'll be starting a blog on the workbench project shortly. Thanks again everyone for the advice and help!


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## thedude50

Clark I don't recommend drawers in your bench as they limit your ability to clamp work to the bench If you didn't get it already the blue Schwarz book will teach you a ton of things to make sure your bench has. An while tempting to add more storage to your shop you will be better served if you avoid this trap IMHO I too wanted drawers for quick access to my tools but this was discussed in several books believe me I read 12 books before I settled on a design. I know this will be hard but if you head my advise your bench will do what it is designed to do and that is to hold wood for working it machining it and this is why I favor the split top designs.


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## WDHLT15

Clark,

It was great to meet you today. Always nice to meet a fellow woodworker. Good luck on the work bench! That white oak will make a stout bench.


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## BentheViking

I am looking to build a work bench later this summer. Probably start with a basic frame and top now then do bench dogs and vices later on. I have access to 6/4×2'x8' butcher block countertops from work (maple, white oak, am walnut, and am cherry). Cost is about $150 each. Due to softness i would shy away from the walnut and cherry. Am I ok going this route for the top rather than trying to build something myself or is that way too much money for the top? I also have access to plenty of flooring both unfinished or prefinished. Would be cheaper to attach 2 1/4" oak to the top and sand it smooth, but would I be happier with that?


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## BentheViking

When I was saying attach the oak to the top I meant to a sheet of plywood not on top of the butcher block. If I go unfinished flooring I can do RO, WO, hickory, maple, Jatoba or Ipe. I feel like I'd be wasting money if I went with anything prefinished, but maybe it would be better?

I am looking to do something that lasts me for many years, but also understand that I am not now and may never be an ultrafine woodworker, more of a weekend warrior. Some day I may want to do something more, but for now I would need a basic bench to work on top of.


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## BentheViking

Or has anyone used this workbench HF?

It has pretty good reviews from the HF website as well as the review on this site, but as with anything from HF I am skeptical until I hear from others that its worth its cost.


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## thedude50

ben what kind of woodworking do you do


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## BentheViking

Well as of lately not much since my tools are stored an hour and a half from where I live and I don't have a shop. But once I move and those are rectified, I will probably just be doing many things that we need around the house, built ins, some furniture, things for the kids, etc. I don't think I will ever be doing fine woodworking, but that doesn't mean I don't want to do things that look good and are quality. So I guess the kind of woodworking I will be doing is general, using a mix of power tools and hand tools


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## thedude50

Ben, if you are looking to use hand planes then i think the harbor freight bench is jut to light. You could make any of a hundred basic benches that will server you better . That said it would make a fine assembly table to make a real bench on. I would not say it will meet your desires or that you will be happy with fit or finish the thing is only 5 feet long so it is on the small side. I THINK IT WEIGHS ABOUT 150 POUNDS AND IT has terrible vises. they come pre racked so to say. However if you just going to tinker it is better than no bench . I will venture to say that if you have saws and hand tools you will end up wanting to build nice furniture for your home then you may sell a piece or two. Then you will want a better bench and it is a circle on the other hand, if you step up and build a really nice bench right away once your done you will have a shot at making fine furniture. There is nothing wrong with that as a job or as a hobby.


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## BentheViking

Hmmmph…well I certainly won't be a Neaderthal, but certainly will have some handplanes that I will be putting into use every now and then. What about making it out of a solid maple butcher block countertop or hardwood flooring and then a frame from dimensional lumber? Eventually add bench dogs and vices and that stuff?

My apologizes to the OP for kinda hijacking this forum, but I hope maybe other people are benefiting from my questions.


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## lysdexic

C'mon Ben. You are already a Viking. So becoming a Neanderthal is a natural progression.


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## thedude50

Ben, in Schwartz book he had this one line that stuck with me look at quality workbenches you know the ones you want to own they have a 4 inch thick top that is a glue lam not a butcher block or flooring on top of plywood no don't do that you will kick your self for the next 20 years. I would of could of should of . I know you get this junk is and junk does or as Schwartz said it if you don't see quality benches doing this and you have a great idea better skip that bright idea and go with what works. A 4 -5 inch soft wood top in yellow pine or a 3-4 inch hard wood top that is a glue lam not a butcher block. ask why it is so a butcher block dose not have the tinsel strength your looking for in a real bench. if your trying to save money make the bench out of southern yellow Pine it is construction grade wood. Or post a new thread asking for help finding your wood for the bench. The guy that started this thread already made a great friend and a connection for good wood at a fair price and he will have a great bench in a few weeks. You can do this too.


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## eric122

i would use american beech that is great and solid for a bench


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## SSG




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## Tugboat706

Thanks for the links! I had put off the workbench due to some health issues but I was actually laying out my cut plan today when I saw your post!


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## thedude50

what wood are you going with


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## Tugboat706

I am going with the white oak. great big slabs of it  Old-school. It'll take me longer than plywood but I think I'll appreciate the sweat equity, and it'll look great while I'm working on it


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## WDHLT15

I can't wait to see it!


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## Tugboat706

Me neither! I was blessed, in that I found that Schwarz' Workbenches: Design&Theory book was available for loan on my Kindle, so I've been reading it at work for free  Very very helpful in planning where I want to go.


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