# Gluing up narrow oak for thick table legs



## Gator (May 2, 2008)

I am starting to build a hall table for the LOML. The design I am using has 2.5" tapered legs. I have a bunch of Red oak, but it is all 4/4. I thought I saw an article about glueing up 3/4" boards to make table legs in a way that would give you the grain on the two sides you can see. My lumber is not 1/4 sawn.
I would think I will need to glue up 4 boards of 3/4" each and then plane them to final dimension, but am not sure how to arrange the grain for the glue up, or if this is even possible?

Any help would be appreciated ..

Gator


----------



## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I'm doing a project now where the legs need to be 2 1/8" square … I had a bunch of 4/4 stock that I planed down to 3/4" and ripped to 2" wide.

On each piece, I cut a rabbet 3/4" wide and 5/8" deep, then glued the four sides together.









The space in the middle is open, so they are hollow, and I chamfered the corners, which effectively hides the glue joint.


----------



## Gator (May 2, 2008)

That is a great idea, but I am not sure how it would work on the tapered legs. I may have to re-think the legs, and go with a straight leg .. the table dimensions are 44" x 15" x 29". I was worried straight legs would make it look too "boxy" .. but if I can't come up with something I will try your method and see if I can make it work.

Thanks.


----------



## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

Dane's construct is elegant and nifty, but the taper can be real critical visually-kudos to you for being sensitive to that.

Your idea will work, and you'll have fun finding the best way to arrange the leg pieces. My one suggestion is that, once you have glued them up and trued them and cut them to length (prior to tapering), mark the tops so you know what two surfaces face outside.

Also, know that you can taper just two surfaces and get a good result-it doesn't have to be all four.


----------



## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

Does this help?
http://lumberjocks.com/bsherman/blog/12526
At least it gets to the idea although its about repair it shows how he did the glue up.
Otherwise try Googling Quadrilinear legs.


----------



## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Gator … A lot of Mission/A&C furniture uses straight legs, but adds corbels which can provide some of the visual effect you get from a tapered leg. A set of corbels might do the trick for you.


----------



## Gator (May 2, 2008)

Thanks guys… I was only planning on tapering the insides.. sorry I should have mentioned that, but I am always open for options.. I am actually going to try a glue up of *Danes*idea, and see what I can make work, as the more I think about it.. the more I like it.. possibly calculate how much I can taper the inside two faves, and then round over the two outside edges.. ?
I will not be able to get into the shop for a few days as I just have too much on my plate rigt now.. but it gives me a few days to rethink my design. If I was any good with sketchup I would post my idea.. but it is only a hard copy at this point.

Gator


----------



## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

*Gator*-- Just a quick post-script … think about doing the glue-up, do it in stages. The first time I did one of these I tried to glue all four sides at one time … not a good idea. It was hard to manage and I had a [email protected]!! of a time getting the clamps on. On my current project, I glued/clamped two sides together to form a V, let the glue dry, then gluded/clamped the V's together.

-Gerry


----------



## Pick (Feb 4, 2010)

I really like TheDane's idea, until he mentioned doing the glueup in stages. Have you considered a lock-miter bit? Benefits: The outside glue line ends up exactly on the corner, looks no different than a standard miter-joint--AND, the extra ridges in a lock-miter aid in assembly, not allowing things to slide around. I recently used it in making some 3×3 maple legs for a coffee table.


----------



## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Pick is right … I just don't happen to have a lock-miter bit set (I see them listed for $60 and up). I did all of my cutting on the table saw.


----------



## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

Low tech solution which really works (from my friend Greg Fulton, a master woodworker):

Prepare ample stock. for 16 staves, I'd make 18 or 19. Half inch over length would be fine. You may end up rejecting a couple.

Miter them and then arrange them in a way that pleases your eye.

Keeping them outside-up, tape across three joints with 5 or 6 pieces of masking tape, leaving a tag end to complete the last joint.

Flop the tambour over and spread your glue and roll the boards up like an enchilada, taping it tight.

At this point, traditional clamps will just give you apoplexy. Leave them hanging on the wall, and clamp it with rubber or 4" shrink wrap.

If your saw blade is sharp (and you have a blade stiffener) and your angle is true, you have very good looking miters. You may need a little putty, but only the resident hamsters will be aware of that.


----------



## ChristopherHawkins (Sep 22, 2013)

Lee's suggestion from Greg Fulton makes a lot of sense to me and I'm looking forward to taking a look at some of his other posts.


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

I find that if you glue them without rabbeting them and are a little careful with the grain choice, the seam will hardly be noticable. It's all edge grain.


----------

