# Turncrafter Commander 12" VS Midi Lathe



## jimintx

Thanks for the complete write up. I have not paid attention to know that any lathes had reverse switches, so I appreciate the learning from your writeup. (I went cheap - mine is the HF and it replaced an ancient Craftsman with a pipe bed.)

Who did you order this equipment from, was it direct from PSI?
..


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## Tennessee

It was direct from PSI. Much to my surprise, I ordered it in the morning, (A Friday morning), and they shipped it that day. along with the chuck. I received it all the next Tuesday, only four days later. 
My first small lathe was the 10X18" HF. I had no real problems with it, just got really sick of changing that belt, and the usual issues around fit and finish. Funny thing about the HF: with the coupon, I paid around $165, and put it on CL for $150 and it sold in less than a day. I did throw in a $35 chuck I had picked up on the cheap, but that was all.
I figure I got my years worth of work out of it.


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## Green_Hornut

I bought the Rikon VS 70-220 from Woodcraft when on sale and it was well south of $600 and comes with a reversing switch and a 3 speed pulley and electronic VS. While I had to pay for the extra for the Nova chuck I think the fit and finish is above par. And it weights in at about 130 so vibration is significantly reduced. Just offering another opinion.


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## Tennessee

Green_Hornut:
I think if I could have caught the Rikon on sale, I would have gone exactly where you went. Unfortunately, I just missed the sale and didn't feel like waiting the 6-9 months for it to come around again. Plus, I have a Woodcraft local, which means I get tagged with 9.75% sales tax, even if I buy it online. That added almost what was essentially my shipping charge from PSI.

But I agree, that Rikon is a fine machine. I wish I could have done a power comparison, you know, how much they slow down when cutting a bit heavy?

It did come down to the Rikon or the Turncrafter. I know last year when I replaced my 14" bandsaw, I ended up buying the Powermatic off the floor of my local Woodcraft rather than ordering a Grizzly. The Powermatic is a great machine.

Overall, I hope I don't regret the lathe purchase, but was doing another pen today on it and it just hums right along. No complaints yet.


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## Truefire

Good review. I agree with you: removing a handwheel to remove a belt cover, in order to adjust speed variation is enough to rattle my cage. Engineers drafting the files never use any of the lathes they draw apparently. That facet wasn't thought out AT ALL.

You should be able to add a reverse function to the lathe. Perhaps mount a small electronics project box there underneath the variable speed control panel to mount a switch in; using a $5 double pole, double throw switch from Radio Shack, reverse the polarity through the switch to reverse the dc motor. I did this to my Jet Midi 1014. Works beautifully when using a mandrel with a drawbar through the headstock. Of course, can't run reverse with accessories on the spindle threads but I couldn't imagine my lathe without this $5 modification. I even made a video and posted on Youtube.

Regarding the light. I ended up allocating those LED grilling lights with the combination magnetic/c-clamp base and flexible 18" neck to use at my lathe. Works great to give me the extra lit bit of light needed to peek into dark recessses of hollow vessels being turned. Although those grilling lights run off of AA batteries, I've found its just about the right amount needed in consolidation with the rest of my 120 volt lighting. Been super pleased with the "flexibility" (pun intended)...can maneuver into those weird positions.

Great write up review!!


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## Tennessee

Chris:
Thanks for your compliments and ideas. I think for sure I will add a reversing switch, but might wait till the warranty goes out on the electronics. I think it is 3 or 6 months on the motor and controls, have to look at the paperwork.
My electronic box takes up a lot of the space under the rear of the lathe, so I have to find a place for the reversing switch and box. Probably on the end of the lathe. I can use the extension bed threaded holes, since I have no reason to put an extended bed on it.

I don't see too many problems with having a chuck threaded on the lathe and running it in reverse. My Powermatic has reverse, and I have cut with it going in reverse, even had a catch or two with no problems of unthreading. As long as you don't have one of those nylon washers on, chucks tend to lock onto that shoulder when metal to metal.

For my light, I plan on looking to see if I can find a small halogen bulb with a standard bulb thread base. I know most halogens are the smaller base. I did change out the incandescent 40 watt bulb to an equivalent LED bulb, so at least it runs cool and doesn't smoke the chips that build up in the shade, although I still stare at the part of the bulb that extends past the shade.


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## Truefire

Those little black project boxes sold at Radio Shack that measure about 2×2x1 and come with a little top are ideal for surface mounting and nestling a switch and it's connections in. They actually come in different sizes as you may well know.

Yeah, I have no issues with running a lathe in reverse either with a chuck on. I didn't mention that initially because I frequent many forums and have been beat with ball peens because of my many unconventional approaches. Not knowing what type of company I was in, just posted my first. But-if the tailstock is run up against the piece, there isn't any issue I agree.

I've seen some E17 and E21 base halogens on ebay if I recall correctly. I know I've seen the E17 LEDs which seem to put out quite a bit of light depending on diode arrangements. Couldn't you make you a half cover of the sorts out of some thin sheet metal perhaps, that you could fasten as a shade extension over the top of bulb?


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## Tennessee

Chris:
Yes, I agree that there are some halogens out there have those bases, but this takes a standard E26, (think standard 40 watt household bulbs).
I had never really thought about putting a shade extension on there, would work fine with the cool running LED bulb. Not a bad idea.

I agree with the Radio Shack boxes also. But this little motor is rated at 7 amps on the label, so I don't know yet if that is running, or under full load, or locked rotor amps. I can't really imagine this thing using 7 amps running, but the cord to the motor, and the plug cord would certainly support it. I suppose at the lower voltages it might easily pull that. Would have to split the leads and get an amprobe on it. Or I could just buy a larger reversing switch from Radio Shack, which might be more of a standard 15 amp size switch.


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## Truefire

Yeah the double pole, double throw switch that I installed was rated for 15A, perhaps 20A. I can't recall exact but i know it was 'at the least' 15. I purchased that one from Radio Shack. Just a simple toggle switch. I'm certain there are all grades on ebay that you might could pick up..save you a road trip.

I think manufacturer's nameplates contain the higher of the amperage draws, namely the locked rotor amps perhaps. I've amped out quite a few lines during my electrical work consisting of lower voltage motors and the actual amperage is always lower than the motor nameplate. A 15A rated switch would be fine.


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## dmducan

Thanks for good reviews. I have a Rikon 70-100 lathe and it still works well. Now I have more experiment from you


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## PMBROTH

Hello,

Great Article,
I added a dual pole switch and have the reverse working well. There are plans on the web on how to do it.

Greta job!


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