# Found a 2001 Grizzly 1023 Table saw for sale



## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

I was cruising Craigslist and found the same guy I bought my Jointer from, selling the Table Saw still.
When I purchased the Jointer I saw the TS in the shed, but I wasn't ready to buy one.
He was asking $650. for BOTH the 2001 Jointer and Table saw, He purchased them both on the same day at the PA store, new, in 2001…
I bought the Jointer for $180. it works like a champ, It had the typical surface rust on tables $ fence from sitting for some years, he's disabled now..I cleaned it up very easily, put a new PowerTwist belt on and tuned it up.
Now, I am thinking about the saw…Here's his EMAIL back to me today about saw.

"Hey Steve,
Yes I still have the table saw. Here's the info, Grizzly 10 inch model 1023S, 110V, it is 2 hp 110 volt. It has a 3 belt drive and a shop fox fence. All together table size is 36 1/2 wide by 27 long. I also bought the motor cover and 4" dust collection port. It comes with a 10" Oldman Rip, Crosscut,Plywood and a 8" set of stackable Dado blades. Again as with the jointer the is some surface rust, but not bad. You saw where i store it, and you even looked at it. I am asking $400."

I can get the price down to maybe $350.

What do you "L-Jocks" think?
wish I could find a pic of this older model, 2001 saw


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

weren't all those saws 3hp? a 2hp motor begs the question, "what happened to the original 3hp motor?" also, this may be a right tilt saw. if you're previous saw is a left tilt, does a right tilt present any issues?

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g1023s_m.pdf


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

They came with a choice of 2 motors.
as far as it being a right tilt, if it is, and I am asking, I wouldn't be interested, left tilt only in my shop, I'm used to it.

"...with the 1023S or the 1023S110. Difference being voltage and HP(220v3HP vs. 110v2HP)...."


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

the manual certainly shows a RIGHT TILT saw.
bummer. I am emailing him and asking.
What kind of problems would I for-see in a right tilting saw?
I don't think I would be happy with a right tilt, why the hell are there rights or lefts, just make em' left.


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

"...left tilt is a little safer for angled cuts. right tilt traps the wood beteen the blade and the fence whereas left tilt the wood isn't trapped. it rides on top of the blade rather than under it…."

My choice would definitly be left tilt


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## lieutenantdan (Feb 1, 2012)

Hey! There are still a few of us righties out there.


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

Can someone read this and explain it in clearer terms, I get lost in trying to imagine what he is explaining…

"Like most, I cut my teeth on a left tilt table saw, thank God for Sears, and I mean that. My woodworking career started building miles of production kitchen cabinets which involved ripping miters on a lot of panels. A some point after starting my own shop I found an old Delta Unisaw in good shape I could afford, I have it to this day. It was a great step up but how to miter panels with a right tilt. The method I found results in perfect miters. First cut the panel to net size, which will result in crisp clean edges. Tilt the blade to 45 degrees. Clamp a sacrificial fence to the table saw fence. lay a piece of the stock you want to cut flat with the edge against the fence and scribe a pencil line on the fence. Raise the blade slightly and move and lock the fence toward it gauging by eye so that after turning on the saw and raising the blade it cuts a kerf just below the scribed line. Lower the blade so it doesn't hang and adjust the fence outward and repeat the cut until the top of the kerf splits the line. At this point make a partial test cut into a setup piece to insure the kerf breaks into a knife edge on the setup but no gap shows between stock and fence, adjust again if necessary. Lower the blade below the table, place the setup piece face down against the fence and clamp a straight piece of scrap to the fence on top of the setup piece trapping it to the table. Remove setup piece and raise the blade back up into the sacrificial fence. This takes less time than it took me to write the first couple of sentences. Turn on the saw and fence the edge you want to miter and make the cut. The waste will be trapped between the blade, fence and table so to avoid kickback of same you will either need a helper to pinch the falloff to the bottom on the outfeed to help it through the blade or push it clear with a piece of scrap/pushstick and backing out before cutting through. It goes without saying as with any ripping operation the operator will be standing to the left of the blade so if a kickback (however unlikely) occurs it will not injure, although it will knock the setup out of place. The result will be perfect crisp miters and sharp corners if doing multiple sides."


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

Pg. 45 of that manual shows the 1023S110
A 2hp 110V motor

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g1023s_m.pdf


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

my current saw may be a 1966, with only 1 V (PowerTwist) belt, and old parts, but it is 1 1/2hp (Brand New 1 mo. old Grizzly Motor).
What & how much, should I expect from a 1 1/2 hp to a 2 hp motor difference.
Granted the Grizz is a cabinet saw, mounted parts to cabinet and not hanging off the table, plus my 1966 saw is a handfull to raise and lower, and forget about beveling, I almost need a wrench to move that mechanism.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Great buy at $400 with the Shop Fox Classic fence. It's got the same guts as the 3hp G1023S…the G1023S110 just has a 2hp motor. http://lumberjocks.com/knotscott/blog/32154


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

I just got an email back from him and he stated it is a Left tilting saw…


> ??
> Hmm, I think he's confused, but I dunno, is there a 1023S110 in Left tilt


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Right tilt is fine. You get used to it. As a practical matter
ripped miters on panel edges tend to be inconsistent due 
to inconsistent contact with the table as the work is
pushed. Whether they are satisfactory is a matter of
what tolerances you are working to, but I'd rather cut
panel miters in a cut-off box with clamps holding the
panel tight to the box. More accurate still is to make a
square jig and use a router with an angled base and 
a straight bit or use a 45 degree bit and a flat base
to make the miter.


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

I would have to buy 3 PowerTwist belts for this saw…$100


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

The guy just emailed me back, again…and said it is definetly a Left tilt saw, hmmm


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

don't be in too big of a hurry to put power twist belts on a multi belt saw. the sawcenter advised against that when i was rehabbing a '72 unisaw. something about the flex in each belt competing with the others. best way to determine it's tilt is to get a picture of the front of the saw. left tilts have slots for the elevation hand wheel that curve upwards to the right . right tilts have slots that curve upwards to the left.

for 2hp, given the sweet set up you now have with that c-man, i'd be hard pressed to make that change.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

*"I would have to buy 3 PowerTwist belts for this saw…$100"*

That's not required….strictly optional, and often not advisable for triple belt drive systems.

ps: The saw pictured on Grizzly's website for the G1023S110 is definitely a right tilt saw. FWIW, the only issue I ever heard about that saw is that it overtaxed most standard 20 amp 110v circuits, so generally required a 30 amp circuit, or 220v, which sort of defeated the purpose of the "S110" suffix.

Note the position of the front handwheel within the "smiley" on the front, and the location of the remaining space for the wheel to move….the blade will tilt right toward the fence.


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## Fuzzy (Jun 25, 2007)

I have had 3 Power Twist Belts on my 1023 for years without any problems/complaints. Also have 2 on my Grizz 8" jointer and 2 on my WOODMASTER 718 PLANER/MOLDER … never heard of any valid reasons not to do so …


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Just saying they're not required, but the $100 price tag is one reason not to bother….that's a big expenditure for something that may not be needed, and may not make a difference. They can also be rough on some of the pulleys that are used on the double and triple drive saws, depending on the pulley material and how the belt sits in the pulleys.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I don't think they would help much to reduce vibration. 3
belt saws have 3 belts to transfer more power. Contractor
saws have a lot more play in the relationship of the
arbor and motor.


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

I have made a wise decision to wait and go up in HP to at least 3 if I going to change saws. I worked with mine all day today, and It is sweet, it purrs.

It just doesn't bevel well because the worm gear whatever ya call it, is really hard to turn…I've tried all knds of solutions but it is just vintage and wasn't meant to be a production saw. I deal, and I swear, but mostly I deal.
I'll get a 3+HP some day soon and put a Dado in my 1966 saw for good, she'll like that, lol.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I'd tell the seller what the belts cost (weather your going to buy them or not) and offer $250 at that you can always resell it if you want to upgrade.


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

I told him today I would consider the saw for $300, but he is firm with the $400.
I want a higher HP anyways.
I figure if I upgrade why not get what I need for the long term and be satisfied with the power.
3-5HP, probably 3hp will be sufficent to do all I do.
Left-Tilt definetly, and hopefully something in a vertical rise (dovetail ways) for precision when raising lowering beveling and riving knife follow.
I'll wait…my 66' is being a good girl so I'll let her be the boss for now, till I retire her with a Dado blade.


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## jmckeag (Jun 8, 2015)

I too have discovered an older 1023 for sale, this is a 3hp 22v. I've offered $250 and owner wants $300. I have not heard or seen it running or cutting. I would need to dismantle the saw (unbolt the top from the body and remove the motor) to be able to move it myself in my Honda CR-V. Am I asking for trouble by taking the top off of the body? Will there be issues truing up the saw if it is dismantled. It may have been well used as the owner is a fix-it/home builder/home repair about to retire. What issues surround older Grizzly 1023 saws, bearing/bushing replacement or motor rebuild?


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## jmckeag (Jun 8, 2015)




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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Other than bearing wear, no systemic issues that I'm aware. That particular fence isn't great, but should be ok.

Taking off the top should be pretty easy….keep an eye for shims that may have been placed to level the top…note where each one was, and replace in exactly the same order.


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## jmckeag (Jun 8, 2015)

Am I offering the right amount for the saw? I've seen lower prices at auction for the same unit.


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## Shadowrider (Feb 2, 2015)

If it's in working condition, try to get it for $250, but I'd probably take it at $300.

I'd replace the arbor and motor bearings give it a good cleaning, a coat of paint, and put an upgraded fence on it. You will have lots of money leftover to buy wood vs. buying a new 1023.

FYI… Hint…Hint… An Incra TS-LS fence is reversible so the right tilt isn't an issue.


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## Alan72 (Oct 31, 2012)

The nice thing about buy tools second hand is the price. You can use the tool for a couple of years sell it for almost what you have in it. Then upgrade to the one you really want. This is something I have been doing for the past 10yrs and the only thing left for me to upgrade is my Jet 16/32 drum sander.


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