# Fresh cut lumber for walls?



## toddbeaulieu (Mar 5, 2010)

Ok, this is a strange question, I think.

I did half my workshop's interior walls with 12" rough sawn lumber from a local mill. I ran out half way through because my math sucks.

That guy warned me that he was closing down and sure enough, I can't find him now. A quick search on CL found a few local mills.

I'd like to match as best I can, appearance-wise. I'm pretty sure he said the wood that I bought was stacked for one year to naturally dry.

One guy says he's got some 7/8" fresh cut. I assume I'd never be able to tell that the remaining walls are 1/8" thinner, but is it smart to ship lap and mount fresh lumber on the walls? He said he could KD it for another 20 cents/bdft.

There are other places that I haven't heard back from yet, but I wonder if any of you have an opinion on this?

Thanks!


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

If you put it up green it will shrink like crazy. It will take a year to dry to final dimension. If you place each board tight to each other you will have 1/8 to 1/4" gaps in a year, depending on the width of the boards and species. I assume we are not talking quarter sawn.


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## toddbeaulieu (Mar 5, 2010)

That's what I thought. Ok. I won't go "green"!

Thank you!


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## Scsmith42 (Jan 26, 2011)

Todd, I am a sawmiller and kiln operator.

Kiln dried is definitely the way to go, and .20 bd ft is an excellent price. Pine only takes a week or so in the kiln, depending on the type of kiln, so this is your best option.

Bondo is correct regarding the shrinkage, but incorrect regrding the drying time. Each species of wood dries differently depending upon species, thickness and it's environment. 4/4 pine typically air dries down below 20% MC in about 90 - 120 days. If KD is not an option, stack and sticker the pine in a location where it can get good airflow through the stacks, and cover them with some tin or something to keep the water out of the stacks.

The other advantage of KD pine is that a knowledgeable kiln operator will "set the pitch" at the end of the kiln run. This consists of running the kiln temp up to 160F or higher for a few hours in order to allow the sap to crystalize at around 140F. This prevents sap from weeping out of the pine boards over time. This also serves to sterilize the lumber and kill any pests in it.


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## toddbeaulieu (Mar 5, 2010)

Scott, I don't know, but I'm fascinated with the lumber mill! I'd love to learn more about the process and hang out, watching. If I were closer I'd ask to come harass you!

Thanks for the great info!


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