# Novice with Sub-par Lumber and Ill-Fitting Dados



## Murph_n_Turf (Sep 5, 2017)

Hey everyone. New guy here. First large project. Thanks for your time.

I'm building three, chunky, cube-style bookcases out of pine 2×12's (see dimension plans attached).

So, I built a router jig to cut exact 1-1/2" wide dadoes exactly the same width apart and square to the edge of the lumber. The dadoes came out clean and perfect, and I was promptly proud of myself.

What didn't come out perfect, and what many of y'all probably could have foreseen, is the lumber itself is not clean and perfect. I have no jointer or planer, and I stupidly didn't plan for such variance in the "dimensional" lumber (my fault for trying to use carpentry lumber for furniture, really). So, although I tried to choose the straightest boards, many of the shelf boards are slightly cupped or twisted, and most were slightly less than 1-1/2" thick to start out with. Also, on top of that, I had to sand them smooth for finishing which really makes them less than 1-1/2" thick.

Long story short, my dados are about 1/16" to 1/8" too wide for the shelf boards, and some shelf boards are not square, so there are uneven gaps. I realize now that I should have undersized the dadoes and sanded to fit, instead of trying to make everything perfect the first time. I'm a designer and drafter, so I'm used to working with perfection in CAD… I'm realizing real fast that I gotta get over that if I want to be successful in building things in the real world. lol.

So my question: I know, theoretically, I could shim them to get a tight fit, but since some are cupped or twisted (a straight shim would not work to fill these gaps), and I'm painting it anyway, could I just use wood filler or JB weld Kwikwood for these gaps, or will that compromise the joints?

I look forward to learning from y'all and my mistakes.


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

I was going to recommend hand carving shims, but if you're painting them, go for the wood filler, paint turns mistakes into masterpieces.


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

> I was going to recommend hand carving shims, but if you re painting them, go for the wood filler, paint turns mistakes into masterpieces.
> 
> - papadan


Very true, have my share of such masterpieces.


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

I'd go with the wood filler too. As I've gotten better at woodworking, I don't necessarily make less mistakes, but I get better at hiding them!


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## Bluenote38 (May 3, 2017)

> I d go with the wood filler too. As I ve gotten better at woodworking, I don t necessarily make less mistakes, but I get better at hiding them!
> 
> - Manitario


Too true - I sometimes think wood working is more about fixing mistakes than anything else. Wood putty should work well for you. Good luck and welcome to the brotherhood.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Welcome to Lumberjocks

Mistakes happen. Hiding them is a learned skill.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

What Monte said. AN old mentor taught me that a good carpenter is someone who can hide his mistakes so no one notices them.


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## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

I buy construction grade lumber for shop cabinets, tables, fixtures, jigs and various other utilitarian purposes. It is usually inconsistent and inaccurate in thickness and may have twists and bows in it. The edges are also rounded over. I store it in my shop loft for a few months to let it dry and then I mill it flat and to 1.375" thickness and joint and rip the width to whatever dimension I need. In other words, I treat it as rough sawn lumber. After doing this, it is pretty stable. I know you don't have the equipment yet but as time goes by you may acquire it.


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

Minwax makes some wood putty's that are wood colored to match their stains, they work great for buggers and nail holes and the like.
My trick is to put on the stain, then first coat of finish let dry then add the putty, this way the putty doesn't fill the pores of the wood to where the stain can't sink in, now the second coat of finish and all is sealed.

Back 40 or so years ago using nails on face frames wasn't such a no no and the putty would hide the nails holes.
Just my $.02


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

Another way to do this sort of thing is to make the dados smaller than the shelf thickness. Ex: shelves 2 in thick, blind dados at the front, 1 3/4 in wide. Dress out the cup at least the height of your table saw fence with a hand plane and cut the rebate with the dressed side against the fence, standing up. With well dressed timber, I cut the rebate, bottom of the shelf down, on a router table.


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## patcollins (Jul 22, 2010)

Construction lumber is going to shrink quite a bit also unless it has dried for a few months after you bought it.

Post a picture of what you built.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

Just affix the top and bottom shelves and maybe one pair in the middle. The rest are sliding shelves. It really should be fine unless you want a seamless look, which at this point probably isn't possible. Your other option is to hide your mistake with a face frame. And if the space on the top side offends you, then put a piece of trim over it.

Wood filler will just make a mess. It will probably crack after a while and look terrible.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

> Construction lumber is going to shrink quite a bit also unless it has dried for a few months after you bought it.
> 
> - patcollins


It will.

Or cut thin strips to glue in.


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

Mistakes happen, heck it could be worse you might have gotten an award for it. See pic below. This has been passed around at work countless times. You want one of your own, make one….. LOL


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## Murph_n_Turf (Sep 5, 2017)

Thanks for all the info and welcomes, everyone.

I might try to shim up what I can (the larger gaps), and use filler for the rest.

I worry just filler will, as mentioned above, crack over time, but also negatively affect the glued joint strength since I'm not using fasteners. Any thoughts on the strength of wood filler in glued joints?

I think my next large tool purchase will be a planer.

Also.. I dig that award. lol.


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

I have friends at other mechanics shops that borrow it from time to time. Gets alot of laughs.


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## jerryminer (Jun 15, 2014)

I suggest you re-think the "no fasteners" part of your plan. Since this will be painted, you can make the fasteners disappear with filler (or plugs) and paint.

You'll be gluing end grain-to-long grain-a very weak glue joint. If you want this thing to stay together, drive in some screws.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

I agree this does need fasteners since the dado fit is loose. Glue alone will not hold well. You also didn't state whether or not the case will have a back. A back will go a long way in overcoming some of the joint deficiencies. By fastening thru the back, all of the components once squared up, will mitigate the poor fit of the dados and it will not be an issue.

Personally I wouldn't attempt any shimming or other measure to cover up the gaps if they're all relatively consistent. I especially wouldn't use any type of filler. It will crack at the intersection between the shelf and the side. All it will take is a little wracking of the case to do so. So you'll still end up with a line. If it were my choice, I'd apply some 1×2/ 1×3 flat stock to the face of the frame and call it a day. It will hide the gap at the front. The gaps above each shelf will not be as noticeable.


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

I missed the part about painting some how so my tip is--- but maybe some others can use it when staining a project. Sorry!!!


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## Murph_n_Turf (Sep 5, 2017)

Yes. It will have a plywood back screwed to prevent racking. Do y'all think that would be enough to overcome the loss of strength from the loose dados, or would I still need to use screws at the shelves as well?


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## Murph_n_Turf (Sep 5, 2017)

I just looked at it again, and it's not quite as bad as I thought. None of the gaps are over 1/16".


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

It's a nice design detail. LOL


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

It's highly unlikely one of the sides will
warp in the future to the extent that 
the shelves will fall out of the dados.

Wood filler in the gaps should be sufficient
in this case I think. If you want extra
solidity the back can be nailed or screwed
to the backs of the shelves. This is kind
of tricky to get right with 3/4" material
but since your material is a lot thicker it
will be easier to do.


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## Murph_n_Turf (Sep 5, 2017)

Long overdue update.

Finished one! Now that I know the design will work, I'll build the other two that will sit next to this one.

One thing I didn't think about is just how dang heavy this thing is. It's probably about 150 lbs! It's also pretty sturdy, so I'm risking not putting a back on it to save on some weight. We'll see how that works out in time.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Looks great good job! Maybe lag it to the wall so it doesn't tip over.

Put a top rail between the partitions and lag it into a stud.


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## diverlloyd (Apr 25, 2013)

Second attaching it to the wall. I used angle brackets on mine attached to the top and into the studs. Since it's on top no one will ever see it.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

> I worry just filler will, as mentioned above, crack over time, but also negatively affect the glued joint strength since I m not using fasteners. Any thoughts on the strength of wood filler in glued joints?
> 
> - Murphy


No fasteners? That might a problem.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)




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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Paintable caulking is way easier to use than wood filler. Do the caulking before you put the back on.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Alex-10-1-oz-Painter-s-All-Purpose-Acrylic-Latex-Caulk-18609/100078928

After the back is on you can caulk those joints to if need be.


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