# glass for chisel sharpening



## buckbuster31 (Dec 27, 2016)

where has everyone gotten their piece of glass to flatten chisel? can I use the top of my table saw as a replacement for the sandpaper to sit on?


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Sure as long as it's flat … which I'm sure it is! I picked up a scrape piece of glass from Lowes for free … it was cut wrong and they were going to throw it out!


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## buckbuster31 (Dec 27, 2016)

how thick does the glass need to be


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Mine appears to be a bit over 1/8 of an inch … I would assume as long as the glass is resting on a flat surface and doesn't crack when pressure is applied a regular window pane thickness would work. All that counts is the surface is flat … for that matter a smooth piece of tile/granite could be used instead of glass. I think sometimes we over engineer these things …

My sharpening system is on a flat board … the glass in the middle under the sandpaper has been there for years …


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

I suggest going to the HD or other big box store and buy a single 12×12inch granite tile for $5.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/MS-International-Absolute-Black-12-in-x-12-in-Polished-Granite-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-10-sq-ft-case-TABSBLK1212/202508270

I would suggest that you would/will spend more than that on GAS trying to find a better deal. Mine works great.


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## IndianaWoodworker (Nov 19, 2013)

I concur with HorizontalMike…while I have sharpening stones for my chisels and plane irons, I use three 12"x12" granite floor tiles to restore hand planes I find at various flea markets. These work great for me and they're a lot more durable than glass.


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## buckbuster31 (Dec 27, 2016)

what grit sandpaper would everyone start with?


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

I went super cheap and got several granite scraps from a counter top shop for nothing.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

> I went super cheap and got several granite scraps from a counter top shop for nothing.
> 
> - BurlyBob


That was my route, as well.


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## IndianaWoodworker (Nov 19, 2013)

> what grit sandpaper would everyone start with?
> 
> - buckbuster31


Well…it kind of depends on what you need to accomplish. If you need to take off a lot of material because, say, there's a back bevel on your chisel, then you would probably want to start off with something coarse…an 80 or 120. If you just need to do a quick honing, then you'd want to use a 1000 or higher.


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## BenDupre (Jan 23, 2017)

+1 for marble tile. Check it with a straight edge first, just to be sure. You can use the table saw top if it's a cast-iron top. I have used my table saw for plane flattening, but that's done dry. I would be wary of putting water or cutting fluid on it. When I flattened my plane sole I taped up the mouth because I didn't want grit getting into the saw.

I can tell you from recent experience that sandpaper sharpening seems cheap but it get expensive quickly if you buy the paper at the big box. Try online (sorry I have no resource for you). I just bought a set of DMT plates and realized that I could have almost paid for them if I had started out that way.

BTW - best advice I got from LJ on sharpening? Watch Paul Sellers do it on youtube. He'll go over everything you need to know.


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## JayCee123 (Apr 22, 2016)

Lately I've been picking up marble or granite floor tile at HD. Apply spray adhesive to the sharpening film or paper and stick to the tile. Been experimenting with the 12×24 tile. Gives me more room to run my blade holder back and forth without falling of the edge. I store a few tiles with different sanding films applied and ready. Oh, while your in HD, take a walk over to the wood flooring isle, pick up a few of the pre-cut flooring samples, they make great sanding blocks. I really like the samples that have cork on one side and hardwood on the other. The cork side works nice for sanding a curved edge and the hardwood side great for flattening.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

Buck as far as grits. I've got a piece of granite with a piece of 220, 320, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500 on it.
I've also got 4 longer pieces of granite with 220, 320 and 600 for plane soles, irons and chisels. If a chisel just needs a touch up I used the piece with all the grits. 20-30 strokes on each and I'm good to go. I recently had to really work of a badly chipped chisel and ended up just getting rid of the chip on my stationary sander. That is with the sander turned off. I put it in my Veritas guide and ran it across the 100 grit belt. Every now and then you have to used those courser grits. It just depends on the condition of the chisel or iron.


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## corelz125 (Sep 23, 2015)

I went the dumpster dive route myself for a piece of granite cutoff from a stone fabricator. I bought rolls of porter cable psa sandpaper .


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

I wouldn't use the top of my table saw. It is plenty flat, however you will want to use some water with the sandpaper….Cast Iron not happy and makes a mess of fine metal powder.

I got glass from a glass shop in town… think it cost me 8 bucks for a piece of tempered glass, and they sanded the edges round for me.

I keep it in a baking pan so it collects the water, and schmutz


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I haven't met a truly flat saw top yet. Granite sink cut out for me. It was free and thick.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> what grit sandpaper would everyone start with?
> 
> - buckbuster31


80. 60 is too coarse and leaves deep scratches, 120 takes a lot longer. 80 is perfect. I use glass or the top of my table saw. You don't need water or oil with sandpaper, only with stones.


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## boatz (Nov 17, 2013)

I went to a local glass company and had them make me a 12"x12"X1/4" piece of float glass. Float glass is much more uniform than regular glass

Float glass is a sheet of glass made by floating molten glass on a bed of molten metal, typically tin, although lead and various low melting point alloys were used in the past. This method gives the sheet uniform thickness and very flat surfaces.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

> what grit sandpaper would everyone start with?
> 
> - buckbuster31


Unless I am removing a knick from dropping it on the concrete…
For sharpeining I start at 400 to re-establish the bevel - I mark/black out the bevel with sharpie, then use teh 400 - Silicon Carbide to tweak the sharpening jig to match the old bevel and establish the new edge. and make sure I am getting a square edge, not skew.
then 800, 1500

Then I use a felt wheel with flexcut gold compound on it.

Then move to 600


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

The system below works well for me. Three pieces of 1/4" plate glass about 5" x 12" with 3M PSA abrasive mylar sheets. Each piece takes half sheet. It all stores in a small space, nice and clean. Just a little spray of water, sharpen, wipe, done.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/93690
toolsforworkingwood.com sells sheets from 40 micron to .3 micron grits. The ~$14 sample set will last a long time in this setup.
https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/THS/item/ST-MAF.XX


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## vicjs (May 6, 2016)

Ditto for the tools for wood working pack. Does a great job on 1/4" tempered glass. PPG rep said all 1/4" tempered glass is the same as float glass. Also worth looking at http://primeshop.com/access/woodwork/scarysharp/ and Veritas MKII Narrow Blade Honing Guide #05M0910. Until I used these I could not obtain a really sharp and easily maintained chisel. Now hair shaving sharp is just a few laps away.


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