# Why is my orbital sander leaving marks on Iroko end grain cutting board?



## BigDaddy2121 (Oct 19, 2013)

Hey folks - I am fairly new to woodworking and am making an end grain cutting board. I am using Purpleheart and Iroko for the cutting board. While doing some sanding (using 80 grit) with my orbital sander, I noticed the Iroko wood getting circular black marks all throughout. It did not occur on the Purpleheart and I am trying to understand why?

I was unable to remove the marks via sanding with 120 grit, so I am going to go ahead and invest in a nice hand planer to take a small amount of the surface. I have a nice Makita planer but have read some horror stories about putting end grain wood through a planer.

I really am just trying to learn why this happened in order to avoid making the same mistake twice. Does anyone know why those markings would have occurred in the Iroko wood?

I also have pictures if needed.

Thanks


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## Woodendeavor (Apr 7, 2011)

A picture is worth a thousand words


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## BigDaddy2121 (Oct 19, 2013)

Hopefully, I posted this pic correctly. If so, you can see the streaks that the orbital sander has made.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

I am not sure what you refer to, but 80grit is fairly course paper and can leave deep scratch marks. that said, from your description it sounds like you are referring to burning marks more than gouges/scratches. if so, it may be that your sander is producing a lot of heat which the Iroko is more sensitive to than the purpleheart and develops burn marks.

are you using a dust collector with your orbital sander? are you applying too much force on the board perhaps? you should really let the sander do it's job using it's own weight - without pressing on it hard.

since you are using 80grit, you will have to follow up with 120 on top of that - and work a good amount to remove the 80 grit scratch marks.

since this is end grain - you will have better luck using a scraper than a handplane to smooth it out and clean it up.

good luck!


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## C_PLUS_Woodworker (Jun 10, 2010)

Possible:

Not going through ALL the grits

Not spending enough time at each grit

Make sure…......especially during the first two grits, that you have all the sanding marks gone, then you can move on to the finishing grits

Let the sander do the work

Too much pressure on sander

Holding sander at angle….......it should be flat

Consider using these….........I am a true believer:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019FSEZI/ref=ohdetailso00s00i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## BigDaddy2121 (Oct 19, 2013)

Thank you very much for the tips - wish I knew it before as I did everything you mentioned not to do. I put immense pressure on the sander and tilted to try to get more force.

PurpleLev, why would you recommend the scraper vs. the hand planer? Just trying to understand when to use one vs. the other.

C Plus, I ordered the pads and the protector pad already. Looking forward to trying these out!

Thanks again fellas!


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## emart (Mar 16, 2011)

the hand plant will be more likely to gouge the work when it comes to end grain. any number of things can happen when hand planing especially edge grain. a scraper is much less aggressive than a hand plane and can be easily used for trouble spots without being noticeable


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## BigDaddy2121 (Oct 19, 2013)

Makes sense - same sort of logic that applies to not putting it through the planer. Thanks


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## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

I just use my Planer. Your best bet is a drum sander if your going to make a lot of them. The less sanding and scraping you do the better IMO. Not that I'm lazy just bad shoulders.


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## C_PLUS_Woodworker (Jun 10, 2010)

Agree to the scraper…........for all the reasons stated above…........

I am actually a little embarrassed ( of me to me) that I did not think to mention that….......cuz once I discovered scrapers, my whole world changed.

If you have a hand-held belt sander…...give it to your wife to hide…..... so you won't be tempted to use that.

(it take A LOT) of screwing up and leaving deep gouges to learn how to properly use a hand-held belt sander….........maybe one day I will learn)

To *wseand*

Agree on stationary" belt sander, but you are OK running end-grain through a planer?

I have never done that, but only becasue the prevailing opinion on here is that running end-grain, even in light passes, results in lots of exciting things.

I sure do wish I could/would/should use the planer for cross-grain or end-grain….........just hesitated due to all the negative comments about doing that.

Have you done it often enough to feel comfortable about that being a "normal" process for you?

Certainly not arguing…...........want opinion…...........thanks…............Bruce.


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## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

Bruce,
I have a DW735 and it works great if you make very shallow passes. Sneak up on the width and take about an 16th or less of a turn on the wheel each pass.. I have made 14 end grain boards and never a problem. I also alternate sides each pass. I'm not saying you won't have a problem but I have not had a problem. I am certainly no expert. I have tried to make it as flat as possible in the glue up phase which really helps.


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## BigDaddy2121 (Oct 19, 2013)

You are a better man than me. I have a Makita 2012NB but it scares me every time I start it up. Let alone put an end grain cutting board through it. Just curious, do you router the edges before you send it through?

Like C+ said, do you do anything special to send an end grain board before you send it through? I will say that I thought about it, but I am more afraid of blowing up a great planer than I am getting hurt. I can move pretty quick!

What kind of wood did you use for the board in the pic? Specifically the dark wood.


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## C_PLUS_Woodworker (Jun 10, 2010)

To *wseand*, again:

My cutting boards come out of glue-up real nice and flat.

Pipe clamps with painters tape to catch the glue

Alternate bottom clamp….. then a top clamp, etc.

And use at least 3 oak cauls, on top AND bottom (opposing each other) with packing tape on them to shed glue.

But, you know how much squeeze-out there is, especially on the bottom.

I am " assuming" your are getting all that surface glue off prior to planing…....or would the glue not screw up the blades like I think it would

I am VERY lucky. I cannot justify a drum sander. But I have a good relationship with a cabinet shop that charges me $10 per board to drum sand top and bottom. That cannot be beat. 180 grit. Perfect EVERY time.

But, they *REQUIRE *that there be *NO *surface glue….....and even then the guy isn't all that happy about belt sanding his own glue-up panels, let alone mine….......glue between the panels that comes off while sanding to get the panel (like cab doors) finish sanded. I guess the belts are real expensive…....and probably time-consuming to swap out. So, I try REAL hard to respect that.

But NO SANDING except for after things like juice grooves or rounding corners and/or edges., etc. VERY VERY lucky to have that resource.

If I hadn't just paid him 13K for the kitchen in our new house….Hickory….. he probably would have said NO.


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## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

I'll Chamfer the edges. I've had them tearout a bit even with the chamfer, but very little. I know there is another guy on here that uses his Planer just can't remember who it was. You want it to be a thick board, I have never done it to a thin one, I would assume that there would be a better chance of catastrophe with a thin board.

If your feeling fishy about it I wouldn't try it, it can tear up your planer.


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## C_PLUS_Woodworker (Jun 10, 2010)

To *wseand*, again:

My cutting boards come out of glue-up real nice and flat.

Pipe clamps with painters tape to catch the glue

Alternate bottom clamp….. then a top clamp, etc.

And use at least 3 oak cauls, On TOP AND BOTTOM…......opposing each other….......with packing tape on them to shed glue.

But, you know how much squeeze-out there is, especially on the bottom.

I am " assuming" your are getting all that surface glue off prior to planing…....or would the glue not screw up the blades like I think it would

I am VERY lucky. I cannot justify a drum sander. But I have a good relationship with a cabinet shop that charges me $10 per board to drum sand top and bottom. That cannot be beat. 180 grit. Perfect EVERY time.

But, they *REQUIRE *that there be *NO *surface glue….....and even then the guy isn't all that happy about belt sanding his own glue-up panels, let alone mine….......glue between the panels that comes off while sanding to get the panel (like cab doors) finish sanded. I guess the belts are real expensive…....and probably time-consuming to swap out. So, I try REAL hard to respect that.

But NO SANDING except for after things like juice grooves or rounding corners and/or edges, finger holds on the bottom etc..

Very Very fortunate.

But, I gave the guy 13K for the hickory cabinets in the kitchen and baths of our new house, so he kinda HAS TO do this for me.

Just looked at your projects…..........nice…..........very nice.

I am just getting started on a foyer table that is very close to the one you have posted, except Mission Style Arts and Crafts. It is for a friend and she wants cherry. Never worked with cherry. Not too worried about the build, it is the finish I am worried about. Gonna use Charles Neil's sealer, then gel then Arm R Seal. Should work OK. (I hope).

Bruce.


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## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

I get as much glue off as I can but it hasn't caused me any problems to have some on, just no big chunks.

I would think the drum sander would tear through the glue if it was cured all the way, but I don't know enough about them. If he's letting you use it then I would get it all off too.


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## C_PLUS_Woodworker (Jun 10, 2010)

You probably assumed this, but he doesn't let me anywhere near anything.

He has a guy that does this all day, and he is the one who does my sanding.

Good guy.


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## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

I need to find a guy to do my sanding. Yes I'm that Lazy…


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## MarkTheFiddler (May 29, 2012)

A+ to C+


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