# Obtaining a permit for an addition



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Just to let everyone know tomorrow morning I'll be heading into my city permit building in order to pull a building permit, it's high time I expand my 196 SQ FT workshop to 320 SQ Ft so if all goes well and as planed I'll start work on the addition right away. Wish me Luck!


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Good luck!
Hope Austin is kind to you.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Good luck Randy!


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## rantingrich (Sep 19, 2014)

Getting a building permit should NOT be harder than Sneaking into this country!


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

i wish you good luck randy, if i was fit i would drive up and lend you a hand, i hope it goes well, are you sure you dont want to go any larger, or have you planned it out…maybe you can do a blog on the addition..


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Thanks Grizz luckily I have plenty of help, can't go any larger, maxed out on easements and yes I plan on doing a blog with pictures


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Randy,

If you can't go out,have you considered up? Say 2 ft higher? using 2×6's with insulation can increase upper storage?

Just thinking out loud. Good luck on the build.

Looking forward to the blog and comments.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

how many outlets? 110v & 220v? lighting? total amps? air conditioning / heating? insulation? epoxy or wood floors?
I would love to have dedicated real estate for a shop. Currently, surviving in a 2 car 22'x22' garage. Wonder what it would take to extend it out to a 30' x 20' ... hmm…
keep us posted here or via blog. I'd like to see what the building permit consists of (paperwork and $$$) and pictures along the way.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Hobbs, I have only 10 gage running to the stand alone fed from a 50 amp at the main so all I'll be able to run is a single 240V which I'm thinking of replacing my 120v 8000 BTU AC that I am currently cooling my shop with to a 240v AC

Flooring I'm considering using OSB instead of ply, walls will be insulated and using OSB for the walls.


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## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

Good luck.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

I can not remember the gauge = max amp formula. I ran 8 gauge for my 60 amps. I do not think I have yet gone over 35 amps total in my shop. Granted, I have no arc welder or fridge or such, just wood working machines. You could do alot with 50 amps.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

I think you'll like the 220 A/C. We had a 10,000 for a while and it cooled 1600 sq. ft. quite well. I'd think a 220V 8000 would cool your sized shop really well. Especially when insulated. 
Couldn't you tap off the 240 breaker for the A/C in the shop and run a couple lines for outlets, lights, etc.? An A/C surely won't use all the power.
As to OSB for flooring, 1/2 of my shop has OSB T&G flooring and it has held up well for 15 years.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

As long as OSB is covered it should be a good solution. A coat of floor paint might be in order? I have engineered siding on my shop. it is compressed 5/8ths thick with a wood grain finish on the outside. Put it up with pneumatic nailer @ 14 years ago. It is in an area that is in down slope from house. A lot of snow, varying temperatures, sun and moisture have caused it to swell. It has been stained twice with Olympic oil based stain. Have gone back and screwed down the areas around the nails.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

I hope that everything goes great. Adding on to your shop is always very exciting.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Guys it's not going as easy as I figured, if my calculations are correct, I have the room as for as lot coverage goes but I've hit a snag, the idiots I have to deal with here in the city of Austin are wanting me to pay for a service to have the soil examined along with scaled copies of the foundation, Framing and Wind Bracing it all has to be done by professionals but I have no idea who I need to contact for this and what the cost is going to be, maybe someone here on LJ's can enlighten me of what I need, the city officials were not smart enough to give me information in this area only that it was required.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

reading this has made me happy that i live out in the country where those type of things are not snags , some of it might be a safe thing to have, i can imagine that there are folks who undertake building some addition to a home or such that dont have a clue to what they're doing, but a soil test, well i hope you find the help you need, and i hope that what they ask for does not stop the build because of cost…good luck randy.


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## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

I suggest you talk to a civil engineer and tell him your situation. ( They may also be surveyors) 
He may be able to guide you towards an exception for that size structure. 
That requirement sounds excessive but nothing surprises me anymore. 
That engineer can also give you a quote for the work to keep things in perspective. 
I've always found it pays to ask for help from a building official instead of pushing back, they know how to bend, 
If you know a GC or foundation contractor they may also be a good resource. 
Good luck


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

I know here in northern Nevada.. snow load is a BIG deal for anything with a roof. Dont know anything about soil composition, wind bracing, etc. That might be more advanced than what I could be willing to tackle. Granted, you are down in the hurricane area. So stands to reason any structure built, wind bracing would be a concern.


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## freddy1962 (Feb 27, 2014)

I know nothing about your area. When I did something similar years back, I went to an architect and had him draw me a one-page site plan. I basically sketched out what I had in mind and he drew everything to code with soil plans, easements, framing, wiring, ect. It cost me 300, I believe. I took it to the city planner and they approved it. I then built it myself. Smooz up to the city people, ask for the code enforcement person/people.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Randy,

Haven't needed a soil test but I have worked with the building inspectors as they sign off on what you are doing. My first stop is usually to ask for their help. They know what,where, when, and why. And never argue with them. LOL! Had an idiot doing my plumbing, fought with inspector. I stepped in ,apologized, asked for guidance and it got signed off.


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## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

I used to live in the city of Los Angeles. They had a form "V" that had the code requirements on it already. Surely a big city like Austin has something like that? I did not need an architect. My form had all the required information as far as seismic bracing, and everything else. I had the current UBC book at the time, so I wasn't worried about compliance, in any event.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Randy
After years as contractor dealing with the building department can be a love hate relationship. The inspectors and employes of the building department have to enforce what their interpretation of the building codes are or possibly loose their jobs. When your building it's best to find someone their that will help you at the building department,it helps if the person that helps you is the head of the department but some times the person that issues the permit or ansewers the phone can be equally as helpful. If I were you I would take another trip to the building department and then I would play the poor lost homeowner that doesn't have a clue what to do next. Try the receptionist first and see how helpful she or he is. If you feel they want to help ask who does the soil engineer work most reasonably in your area or is there a way around it ?As far as the drawing Building departments many times have hand outs about framing,foundations and what ever operation you need to do and know about. If your first attempt to find a helper fails ask for the head of the building department and start over ,something like this , I was here yesterday and was told …
and I'm completely lost I don't have lots of money,I don't know where to find a soil guy or how to make a drawing like you want,(some times they accept very basic drawings.) PLEASE HELP ME!
If you don't have any luck with that you might call a few contractors and see what the would charge to just pull the permit and do the drawings.


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

permits… easements… inspections… a woodworker does not need such things!

Randy, A few years ago a neighbor asked me to draw up plans for a permit for a deck he wanted to build. I drew them up in CAD, printed out the Plot plan, the Framing plan, the detail drawings of the stairs, footers, etc. and it was ALL drawn to code. Despite the fact that I followed the code book to a T, He got rejected for the simple fact that I was not a "certified architectural firm". He was also given the name of a local company that Ross Township "recommends" to its residents, and it just so happened that company was owned by a relative of one of our commissioners. Its all politics and money-making.

2 years later when it came time for me to build my shed, I just said screw the township and simply talked to my neighbors. Once I knew they were all cool with it, the shed went up.

Good luck bud, hope you figure it out.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

I've found some help on this and will proceed as planed, thanks everyone, just going to wait for the right weather before starting the work.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Whoop Whoop my friend!! A new space is always exciting! Good luck with it. Post some pics. Look forward to the expansion.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

> Hobbs, I have only 10 gage running to the stand alone fed from a 50 amp at the main so all I ll be able to run is a single 240V which I m thinking of replacing my 120v 8000 BTU AC that I am currently cooling my shop with to a 240v AC
> 
> Flooring I m considering using OSB instead of ply, walls will be insulated and using OSB for the walls.
> 
> - Blackie_


Oops correction Gene and Holbs, I have 10 gauge wire fed from two separate 30 amp breakers from the main panel feeding the shop panel each 30 amp feeding each side of the panel not a 50 amp, which would be more to code and safer since 10 gauge is under rated for 50 amps. I do plan on pulling new 8 gauge and switching the two 30 amps with a single 50 amp.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

> Hobbs, I have only 10 gage running to the stand alone fed from a 50 amp at the main so all I ll be able to run is a single 240V which I m thinking of replacing my 120v 8000 BTU AC that I am currently cooling my shop with to a 240v AC
> 
> Flooring I m considering using OSB instead of ply, walls will be insulated and using OSB for the walls.
> 
> - Blackie_


Oops correction Gene and Holbs, I have 3 pair 10 gauge wire fed from two separate 30 amp breakers from the main panel feeding the shop panel each 30 amp feeding each side of the panel not a 50 amp, which would be more to code and safer since 10 gauge is under rated for 50 amps. I do plan on pulling new 8 gauge and switching the two 30 amps with a single 50 amp.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Randy,

I've been monitoring your blog. I used OSB for walls for my Catty shack. ( a plce I feed the outside cats in sub zero weather. I used reflective insulated board on the outside covered with enginered siding ( compressed OSB with wood textured outer side. The construction is shed style using 2×6 rafters 16 inch on center dense fiberglass and vent tubes. Used the bubble reflective sheeting on ceiling. Have it in my shop.

although fairly small interior is 6×12 feet.. It has a large re purposed thermopane window on one side. It stays 50 to 60 degrees when temps are 15 below. I only use a oil filled electric space heater.

If you can afford or desire to do so, I sheet rocked my shop after reading a couple books on building your own shop.

Helps with sound deadening and some extra fire protection.

Although I have been a contractor/builder on three homes, I got an electrician to work with me and sign off on the box. I learned a few new things from a pro that helped when the electrical inspector came to sign off.

I know you will do a great job!


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Tom you're suggesting Sheetrock over OSB on the walls? My shop currently now has Sheetrock but was planing on using OSB fro the new addition and than maybe changing out thr rest of the shop later


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Randy,

LOL! If you're like me I probably won't "change it out later.

I have wood paneling in some areas. my older shop construction. Newer I just used a vapor barrier and sheet rock. Just use 1/2 inch sheet rock. No OSB…unless…You might have water leakage issues, then I'd go with OSB. If you have neighbors the sound absorption of the sheet rock is great for them and you. probably won't happen it your slab is high enough . And you don't get a lot of snow. LOL

There was a dog in distress last night. Didn't hear it in the shop, but when I went to the catty shack…loud and clear.

OSB might be quicker, and sheet rock requires tools you might not have?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

OSB will allow me to hang anything I want where every I want, all the neighbors are at work when I'm in the shop


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