# The most incredible value in the industry



## jumbojack

I too bought an un-named blade from woodcraft and like you did not care for it. I too saw the video about the woodslicer and I too concur they are the best. I usually cut my stock a little wide, leaving some extra for the planer…..not needed with the woodslicer, a little 150 grit love and they are good to go. If you are skered about spending the $30 dont be, they are worth every cent.


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## WoodRasp

I have used the Wood Slicer Resawing Blades from Highland for years. They are by far the best blades to use for resawing dried wood. I agree with Highland's statement! "*LEGENDARY*"


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## Dusty56

Did you actually compare this blade to other 1/2" 3-4tpi blades , or just the 3/4" 2-3tpi no name brand ? 
Obviously , the more teeth , the smoother the cut should be ,especially on a name brand blade : )


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## knotheadswoodshed

I was also a big fan of the Woodslicer, when I upgraded to my new Rikon BS, I found the same blades (as near as I can tell) from Spectrum Supply at half the price.

http://www.spectrumsupply.com/kerfmaster.aspx


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## Ken90712

Nice review. I have used Wood Slicer blades for yrs. I have tried a few different ones in the past as well. With that said, there was a review on here the other day that had some positive reviews and results as well. Being I just bought the riser kit for my 14 inch Band Saw I need to buy all blades on a bigger size. I plan on giving these carbide bits mentioned in that previous review. The price is right and I'll be able to really compare them to a product I have used for a few yrs.

Thx for the info.


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## mbs

I can't figure out why band saw blade manufacturers produce crappy blades. I have a bunch of them that aren't worth putting on my bandsaw. I don't know why I keep them in my shop.

I'd like to see an apples to apples comparison between the Diamond blade and the woodslicer for resawing and regular cutting. The review I did on the 3/8" diamond blade was not intended to be a resaw blade review.


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## lab7654

Are they low tension like the Timberwolves? I kind of like that about them.


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## RUINTUIT

I like the Timberwolves myself. 3/16 for forming and 1/2 wet wood blade for cutting down logs to size on my 14" GS555. I have yet to try anything else.


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## NiteWalker

Thanks for the review. I'm grabbing one of these for my 10" craftsman bandsaw.
I know it's not a resaw machine, but works fine within it's capacity.


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## WoodRasp

Most of the resawing I do is with walnut stock in the 5-10" range utilizing the ¾ Wood Slicer blade. In my opinion, the tension of the blade has several different factors that need to be considered, i.e. saw horsepower, type of wood (hard -vs. soft) and the age of the equipment. I always respect the manufactures recommendation, but I know my equipment and I listen to what my equipment is trying to tell me. I do not use the tension gauge on either of my BS's as the manufactures specs are to hard on the equipment. Amp draw on the motors and unnecessary load pressure on the bearings & tires. I pretty much follow the guidelines outlined in the attached link to a tee.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/library/Slicing%20Wood.pdf

In a perfect world I would prefer the Wood Slicer in a 1" width as this would give even more control in the cutting process. I do not recommend the Wood Slicer blade for everyday use as it was designed for straight line resawing. You really can't beat a ¼ or ½" blade for everyday use. If your intentions are to mill down logs (10-12"Dia) you really need to be in the 2 HP range or larger. Once you have setup the blade and saw properly your BS should sound like a well tuned sewing machine.


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## ArtistryinWood

I to have used the Wood Slicer Resaw Blade from Highland, it performed very well for about ten minutes. I ordered it to cut some veneer for a friend from a 10" wide piece of Quartersawn Oak. As i said it worked very well on the first board, i sliced of some beautiful 1/16" pieces, very smooth cut and with the thin kerf was able to get a few extra pieces. The next board had a knot and after it cut through it, lost its set and would no longer track straight. Now i know a knot in Oak can be very hard, but i put my regular 1/2" Timberwolf back in and finished the board with no problems. Disappointed


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## Straightbowed

I use timberwolf 1 inch on my rikon 345 they cut great till you hit a nail but I took it off done a little touchup and it's back to sawing ok but it's time to retire it but it cut good for a while


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## Fishfreak911

Oh yea Straightbowed. The T-wolves gotta be put down out behind the barn once you hit a nail. I was happy with my T-wolf b4 that tho. I may have to try a Wood Slicer.


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## TimCoxRox

Thanks for the review! It is perfect timing. I will have to pick up a few.


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## musicgioni

Hi guys, thanks for the many comments on this mini-review of mine. DUSTY56 of course I compared the Woodslicer to the "no name" or rather " Name withheld" brand band saw blade I still have in my shop. There is NO comparison! The Woodslicer is CHEAPER, runs way smoother (no flutter, no wobble no jitter) and cuts as well but much smoother due to the extra tooth per inch it has. Trust me that the "Name Withheld" brand is BIG and much more famous than the Woodslicer. Still, after THREE of their bloody blades wracking havoc with my BS I have serious reservations with their prodcuts. By the way, I wrote a more "emotional" and lengthy review on my Rikon 18" at amazon.com and there I do name the manufacturer.

For now, I will keep the 3/4" 2-3TPI I have for log re-sawing (it seems to cut more aggresively than the WSlicer)and use the WSlicer for higher quality block re-sawing and every day cutting. I was seriously ready to send my TS back because of issues that were obviously NOT entirely the saw's after all. If therey were the saw would not run OK with any blades at all. I did have some issues with the wheels being slightly un-balanced but Rikon changed them Immediately with NO comments. After that I saw the stock blade running beautifuly but the name brand blades shaking like balarinas. The WSlicer also runs straight as a blade (no pun intended) w/o any jitter at all and htis makes it cut as smooth as it does. Any jitter (unwanted motion of the balde will mess up the cut).

WoodRasp, in a perfect world I would like to have a 1/4" that does everything! I went the 1" route too and I did not like handling a blade that was trying to kill me! For a home shop there is no need for one in my opinion and after using the 3/4" I am convinced of that. The tensioning requirements of a 1" blade taxes most but the very best BSs. My BS can handle them but why tax the motor w/o need?

Happy new year guys! Keep making dust whenever you can…


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## musicgioni

Lab7654, the Woodslicer seems to need even less tension thant the Timberwolves. It is thinner and this makes tensioning a breeze. The TW I have needs good tensioning to perform. By the way, I tension the blades not with the scale of my BS but using the deflection method (1/4" by slightly pushing in the middel of the blade with the guard fully raised exposing as much blade as possibe). In my case it seems that this methid and my guayge agree but as I said I do not trust the gauge too much.


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## Dusty56

Your review only states two different blade types …oranges and apples for cut smoothness comparison. That is why I asked if you tried any other blades with the same configuration as the Highland blade. I guess we have to be mind readers in order to get all of the information from some reviewers. 
I also don't understand why you can't name the alleged poor quality brand.
If it's Timberwolf , I would agree with you in a heartbeat. 3 tries , 3 fails in my experience with them. Have a happy


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## musicgioni

Dusty56, You are right I was talkiig about TW. One thing you have to pay attention though is that I did no tjust judge the TW 2-3 TPI for smootheness of cut mainly but for the fact that I could just NOT make the blade run smoothly on my BS. This alone prohibits any serious cut. The third blade sent to me by TW has no flutter at all but I could never eliminate the wobble (front to back movement) no matter what I did and believe me I tried. I would never expect the TW to match the Woodslicer in smoothenes but I DO expect it to run w/o any movement what-so-ever to start with and let the teeth and their profile do the rest. The TW teeth are set in a more aggresive set up and I do feel it cuts, well, more aggresively than the WS. However I am a lazy woodworker and I do not like too much work after a cut and the WS just give me this.

So you also had 3 tries and all of them bad with TW? Sorry to hear that. In my case the real bad ones were the two I received from WoodCraft. The flutter was unreal! On the 1" balde it was over 1/16". The one from TW is much better but still it "jerks" every now and then when running while the stock blade, the 1/4" TW and the WS run perfectly straight. I really have a hard time understanding why some people speak so highly of them. I guess they may have lower expectations than you and I in a BS cut. By the way can you tell me which blades you use and on what saw?

Thanks and Happy New Year buddy!


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## Dusty56

Presently and for the past three + years , I have been running a 1/2 inch Olson "HardEdge" 105" 4tpi skiptooth raker blade in my JET 14" bs with riser block. I also installed a Carter Cobra tensioning spring to replace the OE crap spring.
I keep waiting for it to get dull or break or something that would cause me to change it to one of the other Olson blades that I purchased…so far , so good. I tension it like the TW brand suggests to do theirs , so it's not something that I did wrong with the TW brand to make them break or cut lousy or drift. 
Speaking of which , I have ZERO drift with my Olson : ) I also installed a custom made crank handle to tension the blade with , and I back it off after each use. Same treatment that I gave the TWs. I also have a JET 10" bs that I'm using Olson blades on with the same great results.
Happy New Year to you and yours : )


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## musicgioni

Thanks for sharing your set-up information Dusty56. I am also very glad to hear your very positive experience with Olson Blades. To be frank with you I did not even think about Olson Blades when looking for a better BS blade. I have used a couple of their TS blades in the past and I liked them but not as much as I like Freud TS Blades. Next time I am on the market for a new blade I will give Olson a try. By the way, I am also thinking to buy a smaller BS one of these days because it gives you the extra flexibility with different types of blades w/o having to change anything on one BS every time.

One thing that I learned from this exchange is to better start using the fast blade tension relief that my BS has. I tend to leave everything as is and I guess it may not be the best for the blade.

Cheers and happy wood working.


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## Tennessee

I am currently using a 3/4, 4TPI Timberwolf on my Grizzly, resawing up to ten inches, and it cuts fine, but dulls pretty fast in my mind and I have to push harder than I think I should have to. I may have to give in and try these WoodSlicer blades. Also tried the 3/4", 4TPI Model 201 Hartbar blades from sawblade.com. or whatever they are called. Didn't like them at all…set was off to the right, left an accordion pattern no matter how hard I tensioned them, and didn't last worth a hoot.
On my 93.5 Porter Cable unit, still using the Steel City 1/4" blades I bought four of almost 8 months ago. On blade number two…
Woodslicer, I think here I come for the big stuff!!


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## Surfside

Good review! I've been using Haltbar blades for a long time already. My blades are working pretty well. I'll give it a try for Woodslicer.


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