# 6" Boice & Crane Jointer



## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Hello Everyone!

As usual, I'm on CL teasing myself looking at used tools, and I found this 6" Boice & Crane Jointer for $80. I just called the guy and he said his friend did some work on it and restored it, and that it works well…

Also, what is the price range for a 6" jointer from a "good" brand that will serve my limited needs to a while (brand new to woodworking, and so far have some hand tools and a TS).

Boice & Crane - http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/tls/4007028879.html

Or, would a C-man be better for around $100ish?

Any thoughts?

Thanks!


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

In general I recommend to not buy a 6" joiner as you will out grow it almost immediately. 
I recommend to skip the 6" and to buy at least a 8" jointer, 10" being even better.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

6" is fine for most work in my experience. You have
to start somewhere. Used 8" jointers sell in So. Cal
for $350 and up so you could certainly hold out if
you wanted to.

That Boice Crane has been for sale for awhile. It
looks like it is set up with a nice catch box for 
chips, which is something you won't usually get.

Also, see that big ledge? It can be used to support
boards when surface jointing stock wider than 6".


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Thanks for the replies… I don't plan on doing much more than small things (boxes, small bedside tables, etc) for a few years (being a full time student and all), so I think that 6" will be adequate.

Loren, would this be a good buy for $80, or should I keep looking/wait?


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

The most jointing I do is edge joiinting so it doesn't matter how wide it is. What mattered for me was the length of the table. I wanted to be able to joint longer boards so I got the 6 with a 46" table. If I need to flatten a real wide board I'll use my thickness planer with a jig. I think that voice would be worth a try for maybe 60 or 70.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

That big ledge can also be used to make tenons as well.

Good eye Loren.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Oh that's a good deal, especially considering the
guard is there and it's all set up and running right.

You certainly won't get hurt at that price.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

$80 for a working Boice-Crane jointer with stand, motor, and catch box is a very good deal, IMO. These were well-made machines.


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

So I've been doing a bit more research on jointers.. and I have uncovered a hotly debated topic - buy a jointer or planer first?

Any input?

Also, thanks for all the responses, guys!


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I've had a planer for 15 years. Jointer for 1. They go well togethr, but I think if you're gonna have one it has to be the planer. If you want particular thickness of stock you need the planer. You can do some jointing with the planer with a jig.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

You can do a lot with a jointer, band saw and hand planes.

Affordable benchtop planers have really changed the
way hobbiests can invest in machinery. Planers
used to be really substantial investments. Say
you wanted to make a table - you'd flatten and
thickness the board by hand and do the edges
on the jointer. Then you'd do the top and bottom
with hand planes after it was glued up. For the 
square legs you would joint two adjoining faces so they
were square and straight, then band saw 
parallel the other two faces which you could then
clean up with the jointer without losing dimensional
consistency.

You really want both for working in solid wood. With
planers being so affordable now it's not so hard
to get both. For the price of a used 8" jointer
you could get a 6" and a planer.


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Perfect, thanks guys!! Turns out I can get a C-man Model # 351.217880 of CL for $100 (maybe less if I negotiate).. it's a much newer machine, and parts are readily available (it was released in 2002).

How would a machine like this compare to the Boice-Crane? It's still a 6" jointer..

Thank you all for your patience!


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

$80 for that jointer is a great deal.. those BC jointers are built like a tank and will last forever. Knives are readily available and standard, as are the cutter head bearings. Everything else is cast iron or standard hardware store stuff, so you most likely will never need anything else for it. It is also fairly unique in that it has a full length fence and a fence lock on the both ends, so once you lock it down, it stays put and doesn't flex regardless of how much pressure is put on it. I'd take the BC over a craftsman any day (and did). I picked up mine in much rougher shape for $85 (although it did have the original factory stand) and did the restore myself. It's been a joy to use ever since. Here is a picture of mine after the restore:










Cheers,
Brad


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

That Craftsman is a benchtop light-duty hobbyist toy. The B-C is much heavier duty. A wrench from the dollar store and a forged Snap-On wrench are both wrenches, right?


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## tefinn (Sep 23, 2011)

I've restored a couple of Boice-Crane jointers. The Craftsman can't compare to them! The 351 model C-man is a bench top model with lots of plastic and aluminum parts. It has a short bed and low hp. The Boice-Crane is all cast iron and a longer bed. The hp is only limited to the size of the motor you put on it. The one on CL looks like a 1400 series made from late 30's to early 50's.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Beautiful restore Brad, good job.


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Brad, that is a beautiful machine!!

I just called the seller, and I am going to look at it tomorrow. He says there is currently a 3/4 hp motor in it right now, but that we could swap it up to 1 hp at no additional charge… any thoughts?

Thanks for all the support.. the idea that "older is better" wins out once again!


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## tefinn (Sep 23, 2011)

Nice job on the restore Brad!

Good choice going for the B-C Boodles!


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Should I take his offer and "upgrade" to 1 hp from the 3/4 hp, or is it neither here nor there?


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

Nothing wrong with more power, though 1 HP on a 6" jointer is sort of gilding the lily. I see no reason to not take the upgrade.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

According to the BC manual for that jointer, 1/3 HP is for light duty use, 1/2 HP is for standard use, 3/4 or 1HP is recommended for heavy duty use. If the 3/4 motor is original, I'd keep it just because it's original. Mine has an original BC badged 1/2 HP motor (made by Oak Electric) and I have not found a need for anything more.. It's hard to say which one to take without looking at each. Keep in mind that there may be some problems encountered swapping out the motor. If it's not the same RPM or doesn't have the same size pulley, you might need to do some additional work (and expense) to get it to function correctly.

If you want to try and date the machine, check out this thread over at the OWWM site where I document the restore of my machine.. down towards the end I have a brief description on how to date these machines based on a couple of changes that were made and when. It's rough, but it will get you in the ballpark.

Cheers,
Brad


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## tefinn (Sep 23, 2011)

I'ld keep the 3/4 as well, unless you need the extra power. The one in the photo looks like it might be the original (or close to it). Would have to see the other motor to really make a decision.

Brad - The thread on the restore of your jointer was nice reading. Learned some good stuff there! I wish my restorations looked half as nice as your's. I'm working on a Devilbiss Model 220 compressor from 1937 that belonged to my Great-grandfather. This one I want perfect since it's a family piece.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

If it works don't mess with it.

Maybe offer a little extra to have a back up motor, but if I were you,
I'd leave well enough alone.

An extra 1/4hp won't float the boat for the extra hassles.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

If it was restored by his friend….. was it tested to make sure it runs and performs? So how come that motor doesn't have a pulley on it?


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Hey Everyone!!

I pulled the trigger and picked up the Boice-Crane jointer.. here are some pictures!



























I can't discern if it's original or not, but it's a 1/2 HP motor that seems pretty dang old.

I've looked all over the machine in attempts to date the jointer, but the only markings that I can find (other than Boice-Crane) are the numbers "390" and "392" stamped on the bottom of the jointer.

Thanks again for everything guys!


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Sweet. Nice looking machine.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Congrats Boodles, that's a fine jointer.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

I doubt a Boice-Crane would have come with a Walker-Turner motor, but most of the machines from that era were available without motors, and that Driver Line motor is a good one.

Well done. Welcome to the slippery slope of old arn.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Good score! The motor is definitely not original, but is a good motor and probably from the same general time period or slightly newer. I also notice that the fence is not an original, but a pretty good fabrication that looks like it keeps the same functionality. Be careful though.. the rear fence lock MUST be loosened before you try to either slide the fence forwards/backwards or change the fence angle. These originally came with a "T" handled thingie so it could be loosened or tightened by hand. Yours has a bolt, so you will need a wrench handy whenever you want to change the fence position. Not being the original fence, it may not be as critical, but something to keep in mind.

As for trying to date the thing.. check the fence angle auto-stops. You didn't really show a picture with them included, so I can't really tell what you have. If you have a metal bar that pivots out from under the table and fixed stops on the fence head, then yours was made earlier than about 1949. If the auto-stops pivot around their mounting screws on the fence head, then it is a post 1949 model. Also, check how the fence slide lock works.. if it's a lever under the table (instead of a lever coming out the middle of the fence angle lock handle), then you have a very early model (1935-1936). Very few machines actually had a date stamp in the casting like mine did.

The cutter head on that machine has three knives that can be resharpened, which is a good thing. Depending on what is available in your area, it may be cheaper to just buy a new set of knives rather than having them sharpened. Around here, they charge about $1 an inch. You can get a new set of Freud knives (C350) for about $20. As for setting them.. there are no jack screws so it's a little more difficult than some, but not that hard. You might want to invest in a dial indicator if you don't already have one. You can get a pretty good kit with magnetic base and multiple tips for under $30 at places like Amazon ( such as this one ) with free shipping.

Good luck with it and let us know how it works once you run some wood through it!

Cheers,
Brad


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Brad, thanks for the write up!

Here is a picture of the fence angle adjustment and the portion underneath it.. it looks like it's a post 1949 model?










Also, I was talking with the guy I purchased it from, and he said to sharpen it, I could just turn the motor around, causing the blades to turn in the opposite direction, and lay a piece of metal on it to sharpen them up.. This sounded like a terrible idea, but figured I'd bring it up anyway..

Thanks;

Josh


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Ummm.. looks like a pre 1949 model based on those auto stops.. here is what the newer ones look like:










The top one is fixed, but see how the middle one is pivoted out and resting on the table? Earlier ones had fixed stops on the fence head and a metal bar pivoted out from under the table to engage them. Also, notice the bent lever coming out of the fence angle lock knob above.. that was introduced on the 1937 model. From the picture, it looks like yours might be the same but missing the bent lever and using a screw instead.. hard to tell from the picture. And just so you know what one looks like in case you want to try to fabricate or find a replacement, here is what the out-feed fence lock "T" handle thingie looks like:










I have no comment about the suggested sharpening method :-O Other than it may work, but I sure wouldn't want to try it! If you want to sharpen them yourself, it's pretty easy to make up a jig and use some sandpaper attached to a piece of glass or similar surface. I went ahead and bought a set of Freud knives that I installed on the machine, and I had the original blades sharpened so I have a spare set when needed.

Edit: It also looks like you are missing the fence angle pointer.. mine was missing as well, but you can easily make one out of a 20P nail with a little bending and grinding:










Cheers,
Brad


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

I will have to check out the "T" screw thing - I like that!

Forgive me, but what do I need the dial indicator for? To adjust the depth of the blades if/when I replace them?

Thanks for all of your help, Brad (and every other contributor!)


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

*Forgive me, but what do I need the dial indicator for? To adjust the depth of the blades if/when I replace them?*

Yeah.. for setting the blades. Not a requirement though.. You can also do the straight-edge method, but a dial indicator is much more accurate. And you can use the indicator for lots of other stuff as well.. they are very handy to have around the shop.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Boodles (Aug 2, 2013)

Okay, so I decided my first project would be a cross cut sled for the table saw. My friend and I decided the safest way to produce the runners for the slots was to use my new purchase (the jointer.)

As we used it on a piece of scrap pine wood, we noticed the last inch or two was getting "sniped." After a quick search on google, I learned that I had to adjust the outfeed table to be above/level with the highest point of the jointer blade. After doing that, things were going okay, a little sniping here and there, but after four or five runs through the machine, I noticed some wicked tapering.

For my "technique," I took a scrap piece of wood and glued some 100 grit sand paper to the length of it in order to grip the piece of wood I was pushing over the blades. I tried almost every combination that I could think of… putting most the pressure on the outfeed table, then trying it on the in feed table, then trying to equalize the pressure on both side of the blade.. Nevertheless, both the tapering and occasional sniping continued to wreak havoc on the test piece.

I eventually just started switching which end of the board I fed through the machine first, and that helped to keep the tapering at bay (esp. since I was simply trying to remove the excess wood.)

I guess my question is, is what do I need to adjust on the machine, and more importantly, how do I need to adjust/fine tune my "technique?"

Thanks guys!

Josh


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I'm a fairly new jointer user too. When I got my used grizzly, The knives were not aligned very well. They were not parallel to the tables. I checked that the tables were coplanar by setting a 4 foot level on the out feed and then raising the in feed up til it touched the level. The table should touch the level evenly along its length. If it doesn't you have to figure out how to make it. Luckily mine did. At first I thought there was a problem, then I figured out that the out feed was below the knives. Raise the out feed above the knives while checking Co planar.

Then make sure that the out feed is as close to even with the knives as possible. I used my level sitting on the out feed and then with the tool unplugged rotate the knives by hand. Adjust the table so that as the knives rotate they just kiss the level. That is where the out feed should stay. As far as technique. In general you joint boards with frown down. At first your pressure is on the in feed and then as more of the board comes onto the out feed put most of your pressure there. Also someone recently on here suggested that if the board is greatly bowed, run the board thru and just take off the end then lift it off. Rotate and do the other end. Once it is closer to straight then do the whole board in one run.

I used mine repeatedly today and I love being able to get a very straight edge so easily.

Good luck!


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## restored (Sep 2, 2012)

That Boice Crane jointer is awesome. I own one that isn't near as nice looking, but does the job. And does it well. You do not need a 8" jointer. Also a jointer is far more important than a planer. Without straight square edges, none of your work will ever come out right. This size jointer can handle 7 ft. stock, with a little getting used to. You can then glue up your panels, with assurance your glue joints are all in total contact with each other. I think it makes more sense to find a shop that has a 24" planer, and pay them to run your panels through, to the thickness your looking for. A two part process would be ideal. First to size to a thickness about 1/8" thicker than you plan on using. Then do your glue ups after you straighten your material. Leave everything a little long, for nip. After your panels are complete, let your new shop buddies plane to size. A little lager than you want for sanding. The shop may also have a wide sander and can also sand your panels for you. I would pay 300.00 for the BC above. What a great job. I'm sure it performs as well as it looks. A 6" jointer brand new, pick the brand, will cost you close to double, craftsman a little less. I agree with the member who said 6" jointer & Planer. On this, I would hold out and search around. I'm not much for the table top planers. I would search for a older Belsaw 12" in good working condition. Most of these have a 5 HP motor, are built very solid, and be had for 300.00 give or take. You will also have the option to make your own moldings also. I owned a Jet 13" molder/planer, and now I own a Belsaw. ! 1/2HP vs. 5 makes a huge difference in the planing quality. Good luck.


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## restored (Sep 2, 2012)

Boddles, and MrUnix, inspired me to clean up my machine, and put on a new shine. I needed to change the knives anyways, and started there. Well, there is always something that comes up. I;m reaching out to all of you for advice for where can I go to buy new Jib and knife hex bolts. I believe the machine had this problem when I purchased it for 40.00, and wasn't made aware of it. One of the bolt's head was stripped. I had no choice but to remove the whole head, and loosen the other other 2 and gently tap on the jib so the whole set could slide out. Luckily, it was one of the end bolts and not in the middle. The bolts are 1/4" x 28 thread, the length of the bolt is only 1/4" long. This is from the bottom of the hex head which takes a 5/16" open end wrench. I have searched all over the web with no luck. The smallest I can find is 3/8" long. The knifes I'm putting in are thinner, but I don't believe they will create enough wiggle room to insert the knife and the jib with the bolts in place and max-ed out. MrUnix is correct, setting the knifes is a little more of a challenge than on the other jointers I have owned. I will be purchasing a dial indicator. Anyways, I did see in one of these forums that the older Delta's are set up the same way, and someone had posted a place that carries these little critters. I remember reading that they are spendy

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around 6.00
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. I figure I should purchase a few extra, for issues in the future. I guess they are a common size for many of these older model jointers. Putting them in a place where I won't loose them will be the challenge. Anyone with any info, would be much appreciated. Now that the head is out, and the fence is off, there is no time like the present to spruce it up. Maybe then I'll sell it, and put the money into a new head and bearings for my 10" jointer. I think I'm going to keep my small Delta/Milwaukee 6" jointer. I seem to go to this one in the shop way more than my 10". It cuts so true, and the foot print, makes it handy. Thank you all for any help you may pass along. Restored. 
Nothing is impossible to the man who doesn't have to do it himself.


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