# Joining waterfall edge on live edge table



## CharlesA

I'm making a live edge coffee table for a friend's daughter for her wedding (her choice). I need to take another look at the piece at the sawmill this week, but I'd like to make one end this waterfall style (I don't know if I coined that or not).

How would you join it? I'm thinking that I cut the two edges at 45 degrees, and then use glue with either 3/4 or 1" dowels or loose tenons.


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## pintodeluxe

Aesthetically those are amazing. Structurally however, I don't like that type of joint. 
I have seen them made successfully with a Domino joiner. Does your local rental center have one?

A central lower rail with through tenon and large shoulders would also help keep the table from racking when someone sits on it.


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## Mahdeew

CharlesA, Check out my projects; I have 2 with the waterfall effect. Nop, you didn't coin the word. You cut them at 45, but you have to make another 45 cut as well.


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## Tooch

how about biscuits? also, I'd add a metal angle bracket (or wood, i suppose) underneath


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## bondogaposis

Full blind dovetails.


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## TheBoxWhisperer

Ive been thinking about doing that to a 9 ft slab. I agree the domino would be the way to go, but I dont have one. If I had a biscuit joiner, Id use that. As it is, I was thinking of a hidden spline, and dovetailed keys in a contrasting color.

For this project I might step away from wood glue and go with an epoxy. My other thoughts are to use live edge slabs (smaller) from the same batch of wood to make aprons, with the live edge pointing to the floor. Would be plenty strong, but the minimalist look is no apron. Also, if the main slab had checking on one or both ends at the corner, I would think youd have to do something to the underside. This looks amazing, but fragile to me.


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## BinghamtonEd

You can look up the old episodes of Rough Cut, Tommy Mac did a nice one. He cut the miters and then basically did a hand version of the domino. He cut a bunch of square blocks and then cut a slot on each miter so the block would rest half in each board. I'm pretty sure at some point in that episode he said "C'mon guys, you can do this, it's not that hard." So it's probably really easy.


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## TheBoxWhisperer

I was thinking of doing the same thing using a slot cutting router bit.


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## CharlesA

Thanks everyone. Since the domino is a loose tenon joint, looks like most of you are suggesting loose tenons. I can't see how biscuits would add strength in this kind of joint-I would think the joint would stress them at their weakest point.

MrJinx, I looked at your projects. How did you do the joints? What do you mean by an extra 45 degree cut?

How would epoxy add strength over wood glue if glued joints are typically stronger than the wood? Is there something about this joint that would make the glued joint weaker than usual?

The bride to be wants a shelf, but I haven't committed to that yet. If I can find an organic shelf solution, it could conceivably add strength.

Full blind dovetail would be cool-seems like easy to screw up.


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## Mahdeew

When you cut a piece of wood at 45, in order to create a 45 degree angle with the two pieces, you have to flip one of them around. That is not feasible for the outcome you are looking for. Therefore, you have to cut the board that has the 45 protruding at 45 degree so both ends are cut at 45 degree inwards. (I hope this makes sense). I used TBII glue and the drawer serves as reinforcements. I think it works just fine with it as you mentioned, the glue is stronger than the wood. Mind you the desk is 3" thick and by the time you cut it at 45 degree, the cut is more than 3"; so there is a lot of bonding surfaces. I assume it would make it very difficult to align the grain exactly if you used dowels and or fasteners. The desk is 2 years old and the coffee table 1


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## TheBoxWhisperer

Charles I just like epoxy for this one because its a clear and strong glue. The slightest bit of missed wood glue, or damage to the wood removing it could mess up the whole look. Your bound to have squeeze out, especially on the waterfall checked parts. With epoxy you could just brush it in as it squeezes out and put your finish over top. Heck you could even do an epoxy finish but that gets pricey.

Im sure you know that a straight glued miter isnt a super strong joint, its all end grain. Prepping the grain first helps, but this is why most people reinforce them. Hey Maybe you just put in some pocket screws and hide them? Not very traditional but would work, be strong, and hidden.


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## CharlesA

Mrjinx, thanks. I had assumed that cut, I thought you were referring to something more exotic.

Found some instructions on full blind dovetails. Very interesting.


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## richardwootton

I was think a full blind dovetail or a sliding dovetail. One stretcher down the middle with a through tenon cut like a dovetail key could add a cool look. At least it sounds good in my head…


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## Woodendeavor

Tage Frid used a method he call full blind multiple splined miters. It looks simple to do reading his books but I have not tried it


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## ClintSearl

Here's how I did it.


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## CharlesA

I think the full blind multiple splined miters may be a winner.


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## CharlesA

Now that I look at it more closely, the full blind multiple splined miter is very close to the kind of loose tenon I proposed in my op.


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## Randy_ATX

Great topic. I've been tossing this idea around in my head for months. This thread prompted me to search ebay for Tage Frid. I found and just bought one of his joinery books for less than $5 w/free shipping. There is also a set of his 3 hardcover books on there for 2 days with no bids for $19.99 plus $6 shipping if anyone is interested. I'm sure I could have created the joint without buying the book - but I will use any excuse to jump at the chance to buy a woodworking related book. ;-)


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## CharlesA

I bought the 3 Frid books on eBay. The joinery book is extremely helpful, especially with full directions on the full blind multiple splines.


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## mrossk

I'm using this on a project as we speak. Make a spline out of two dovetailed pieces, cut a groove in the larger cocobolo pieces, bomber strong and easy! ( You can use stopped grooves of course, just didn't show them in my SketchUp drawing) From Bill Hylton's Furniture Construction book


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## BigTiny

I know this is a bit late, but it's been a while since I was up to going on line as my health this past winter was very bad…

My choice would be a blind dado with a 1/2" plywood spline about an inch wide, giving a 1/2" x 1/2" in each piece at the waterfall. I'd go with a natural edged shelf too, but a couple of inches narrower than the top. Under the shelf I'd use a matching species brace across the length of the table, but not natural edged one, as it won't show much. Regular wood glue of your choice is fine. As you said, it is stronger than the wood.

Hope the bride likes the end result.

Paul


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## CharlesA

I'm resurrecting this topic to ask a follow-up question. My table is about 1 1/2" thick. Frid suggests 5/16" splines, the more the better (up to a point). The examples he shows are in 1/2-3/4" stock. Do you think I should go with many of these thinner splines, or go for something like 3/4" thick splines (Ash?) for strength? Or is the larger number of thinner splines actually stronger?

Here is a pic of the joint:









Charles


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## splatman

A idea I came up with, while reading this thread, is use use 2" by 1/8" angle iron, the same way as the spline in the Sketchup pic above. You'll probably have to cut the slots on the tablesaw. The ends of the angle would have to be tapered, to fit the ends of the saw-cut slots (assuming a blind joint). The angle would also have to be segmented, maybe 3", spaced 1/4", better, 1" segments, spaced 1/16", to allow for seasonal movement. Don't forget about the fillet in the inside corner of the angle, and shape the slots accordingly. Glue it with epoxy.


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## Elementz

I know this was posted a few years ago… however, because I came across and was reading your comments, I've learned lots and thought I would share some of my knowledge.

I went with an even more Rustic Look and put three Lag Bolts into the face between the grain on the waterfall Vertical face. I used Tamarack in this case for an end table, finished with Linseed Oil. I also would recommend the epoxy resin glue… its clear and super strong.

I will add the link for you to follow

__
http://instagr.am/p/BNnI4EphSd7/


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