# Pennsylvania Spice Box for Mom



## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*Milling Wood and Cutting Parts*

Like most of you out there, I think my mother is the most amazing woman on the planet, and I wanted to find a way to express that to her. My mom's birthday is on January 2nd, I feel very bad that she always seems to get short changed on the birthday celebration because everyone is tired from Xmas and New Years. I wanted to give her a very personal present this year to show how important she is too me.

I was considering a jewelery box and when I saw this project in FWW, I decided that it would make the perfect gift.









The original plan was to use Walnut, however, I need help to solve my wood hoarding problem. I have had some great Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba) sitting on the rack for 5 years, so I am going to use it.










Started by laying out rough cuts.









Cross cut rough length to starting milling. Shorter pieces are easier to get straight without removing a lot of material.









I face jointed one side and then edge jointed one side (clean enough to get thru table saw later)









I then rip to width, ripping first along the jointed edge and then flipping around and re ripping a small amount (1/16") to clean up the side i put thru the jointer. You could argue that this is an extra step but I find the ripping motion on the tablesaw can be done much smooth than running the board hand over hand, while standing on edge, on the jointer. So i use the jointer to get close enough and then the table saw to get the final edge.









I then layout each of the boards, being careful to get a nice grain match on the sides and then use chalk to mark so I assemble properly.









I then glue up the panels, taking care to make sure that face jointed sides remain as coplanar as possible. Sometimes I have to use the rubber mallet to persuade them into place after clamping. Always check after clamping to make sure glue creep (tendency of wood faces to slide across glue layer) doesn't cause misalignment.









After the glue up, I use a hand plane to get the assembled panel flat again on one side and then rip to fit in my planer.









I then run the panel thru the planer, planing with the points, unjointed face up. After a few passes to get a clean face, I flip over and clean up the hand planed side.









Then cross cut panels to final length on the Radial Arm Saw. Now my panels are ready for construction.









Time to address the curly maple drawer fronts. First I resaw 5/4 maple into 1/4" and 1/2" slices. I was having a horrible time resawing until I swapped out a dull blade for a new sharp Olsen resaw blade. I can not over emphasize how much of a difference this made. I was getting terrible results (blade wander, burning wood, excess pressure) that just went away with a new sharp blade.









Then I use a sled to plane to thin pieces. I love the figure on the curly maple.









I then also cut the drawer parts out of resawn poplar, leaving the slides long and back of the drawer wide so I can fit to final size one the case construction is complete.


















After a long day of work, I have my parts read to go.









Next steps, dividers and dovetails.


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## DBoltz (Nov 20, 2011)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Milling Wood and Cutting Parts*
> 
> Like most of you out there, I think my mother is the most amazing woman on the planet, and I wanted to find a way to express that to her. My mom's birthday is on January 2nd, I feel very bad that she always seems to get short changed on the birthday celebration because everyone is tired from Xmas and New Years. I wanted to give her a very personal present this year to show how important she is too me.
> 
> ...


Looks great so far. I will certainly be following this blog! I look forward to seeing the final product. A member of my local wood workers guild just completed a spice cabinet with line and berry inlays.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Milling Wood and Cutting Parts*
> 
> Like most of you out there, I think my mother is the most amazing woman on the planet, and I wanted to find a way to express that to her. My mom's birthday is on January 2nd, I feel very bad that she always seems to get short changed on the birthday celebration because everyone is tired from Xmas and New Years. I wanted to give her a very personal present this year to show how important she is too me.
> 
> ...


oh yes… nice pics.


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## bbrown (Sep 3, 2008)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Milling Wood and Cutting Parts*
> 
> Like most of you out there, I think my mother is the most amazing woman on the planet, and I wanted to find a way to express that to her. My mom's birthday is on January 2nd, I feel very bad that she always seems to get short changed on the birthday celebration because everyone is tired from Xmas and New Years. I wanted to give her a very personal present this year to show how important she is too me.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to this!

I'm also working on a Chester County spice box.

Are you planning any inlay - line and berry, or herringbone?

Dan, I'd love to see and hear about your friend's spice box. I'm also in VA.

-Bill

Forest, VA


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Milling Wood and Cutting Parts*
> 
> Like most of you out there, I think my mother is the most amazing woman on the planet, and I wanted to find a way to express that to her. My mom's birthday is on January 2nd, I feel very bad that she always seems to get short changed on the birthday celebration because everyone is tired from Xmas and New Years. I wanted to give her a very personal present this year to show how important she is too me.
> 
> ...


Bill,

Thanks for the interest. I am thinking that the inlay may beyond my skill level. I am going to practice on some test boards to see if I can do it but I am not confident.

Thanks,
Shawn


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*Dovetails - Purists please look away*

Last session, I managed to rough cut, mill and prep most of the project parts.

This session, I finished gluing up the dividers and cutting the carcase joinery. The divider portion of the project isn't going to upset anyone so I will walk thru that first.

My intention is to create curly maple interior rather than the veneered approach used in the FWW article. In addition, I am going to use plywood in the interior except for curly maple fronts. First step is take some of the 1/4" curly maple left over from when I resawed the drawer fronts and make a series of 1 1/2" curly maple strips.










I cut all my divider stock from 1/4" (15/64") maple ply last session. I run blue tape along the underside of the pieces and smear glue on the front face. I also run a bead of glue down the back of each maple strip, using an old plastic hotel room key to spread the glue evenly.









I then run the two joints together until I feel the suction fit and then press down on the tape to hold in place. I stretch 2" strips of tape perpendicular across the joint to clamp in place.









I then lay them out overnight to dry.









For the next step, I pull out the plywood bits to cut grooves for the dividers. 









You may have seen that I have an entire INCRA step up, including the wonder fence. However, since my router table is the same height as my table saw, I often use my table saw fence. 









The carcase dados are stopped so that the shelf can slide most of the way and then a small notch in the divider covers the dado for the last 1/4". This lets the shelves sit a little loose in the dados to accommodate wood movement. Since I am cutting both sides on a single router set up (best way to make sure the shelves are parallel, the set up will vary. On one side, I will be laying down the panel on the running router bit after lining the front of the panel with the top piece of blue tape and then pushing the panel all the way forward. For the other side, I push the panel thru the bit and stop when the back edge hits the bottom piece of blue tape.









I am also using plywood for the back panel. I live in Florida (very wet) and I am shipping to Calgary (very dry) so I worried about wood movement and decide to sacrifice tradition for convenience. (boo! hiss! I know). So I cut a groove for the plywood in the back and front.









If Roy Underhilll is reading, this is part when I suggest that he jumps to Lee Valley site and surfs for awhile until I can do the next blog entry. I am going to use the MCLS thru dovetail template to cut the carcase dovetails.

Since it has been a couple of years since I have used these templates, I ran a couple of test boards and the results looked great. However, I had a few problems when it came time to do the real deed. First problem, while the joints were nice and tight in poplar, the setting was too tight in Jatoba. I find this happens when I do the double dovetails on the INCRA as well. If I cut a soft maple side and then a paduak trim pieces, the maple works fine but I need to recut the padauk by shrink the tails by a few 1/1000ths of inch (love the micro adjust). Here I had to readjust the jig as if I was setting up for the first time. I think this is due to the fact that softer woods deform slightly (compress) when I put the joints together but the denser woods will not.










Another item that does not come up when doing test cuts is getting the two pieces to align perfectly. For some reason there is no centering line on these jigs, I use a marking knife to make one (after checking that distance is exactly the same from both sides of the jig. MCLS customer suggestion … mark a center line at the factory.









Clamp the jig to top panel. Align the jig center mark with the centering mark on the carcase side. Mark the thickness of the matching side to set you bit depth.










Then chuck up a 3/4" 14 deg dovetail thru a 5/8 bushing guide. Adjust height to at or slightly below the depth line on your stock. Then carefully cut the tails in your stock. (or is it pins)And it is done.










Then attach other side of jig to side panel and chuck up a 3/8" straight bit thru the bushing.










For those of you that know the jig, you will screaming "STOP". I screwed up. You always cut with your outer face facing away from the jig. Yes, I cut the pins on going the wrong way … arrrrrrrrrrggggggggggh!

My fix will make you scream louder. Because the dovetails on the panel side are concealed by crown moldings, I cut off the pins and 3/4" of the carcase, glued an off cut from panel glue up back on with biscuits and epoxy. I put the assembly back thru planer and recut. Would have been faster to cut these by hand.

Precision jigs and power tools just enable me to screw up more wood faster than hand tools. The crown molding will hide my error and the fix will be plenty strong for a piece this size. Otherwise I would have had to adjust the dimensions or redo the carcase side. Again, real woodworkers, just look away.










The bottom dovetails are interesting because they are rabbited first to make them only 7/16" high so they can be concealed by the base moldings. In this case, I cut a stopped dado, equal to the width of the carcase sides and a deep as needed to leave 7/16" behind. It is important to remember the correct height when cutting the pins in the sides.

Next session …. assembling the case.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Dovetails - Purists please look away*
> 
> Last session, I managed to rough cut, mill and prep most of the project parts.
> 
> ...


very interesting, nice pic tutorial


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## DocK16 (Mar 18, 2007)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Dovetails - Purists please look away*
> 
> Last session, I managed to rough cut, mill and prep most of the project parts.
> 
> ...


micro adjust is the greatest thing since indoor plumbing


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*Assembling the case and making the feet*

In this session, I got the following steps completed:

- Cut the rabbited dovetail joints on the base
- Assembled the case
- Created a template for the scroll work foot
- Cut the scroll work feet
- Cut the miter lock joint for the foot
- Assembled the feet for the case

In more detail, here are the steps I followed

I used a 1"straight bit on the router table to cut a stopped rabbit along the based of the case. I measured 7/16" from the based on the case and cut a reference line using a marking gauge along the side of the base. I also marked the stop line 1" in from both the front and back of the base. I set then router bit to the same height as my reference line and zero'd out the Incra jig on the far side of the router bit, burying it in the fence. I then cut the rabbit by making stopped cuts, pulling the fence back a 1/4" at a time until I got to a 13/16" rabbit (matching the case side depth + 1/16").










I used the MLCS through dovetail jig top cut the dovetails (see last blog entry on technique)









Check the fit and it seems pretty tight. That feels very good.









I then glued the assembly together, checking for square as I go.









Having the case together starts to bring the project along nicely.









Next step is to cut the scroll work or ogee feet (note it is an ogee in a single dimension only, the face is flat). I begin by making a template on 5/16" masonite. I purchased the full scale plans for this project from FWW and this is one part where that really paid off.










Used Fostner bits to cut the inside curves









I did the straight cuts on the bandsaw









I used the scroll saw to finish cutting out the pattern









And then cleaned pattern up using the oscillating sander to sand down to the line









And my template is done.









Now trace template on your stock and and use it as a set up block to redo the same series of cuts on all the stock.









Halfway done with cuts.









Now I have a batch of identical feet.









I then set up the lock mitre bit and cut lock miter joints on the feet.









If you want more details on the lock miter joint, I showed each step of setting up and cutting in a previous blog on my sofa table.

details on lock mitre here 


I then glue and assemble the feet, checking for square and using masking tape to clamp them. Masking tape is not stretchy enough and I got poor results. Next time I will use heavy duty packing tape.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Assembling the case and making the feet*
> 
> In this session, I got the following steps completed:
> 
> ...


oh yes. very nice picture blog. I'm likin everything about it


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*Creating the interior assembly*

In this session, I was able to:

- Glue the wood fronts onto the plywood shelf stock
- Fit the upper shelf that creates the first hidden compartment
- Route the stopped dado slots for the shelf assembly
- Route the notches for stopped dados
- Create the shelf assembly
- Glued and fit the shelf assembly into the case

When I resawed the curly maple for the drawer front, I was able to use the left over side as my shelf stock.









I planed the left over 1/4" strips to an even thickness 15/64" (approx)









I then cut 2" wide strips on the table saw









And glued the strips to the front of the oversized 1/4" plywood shelves I cut earlier.









I use a rub (or butt) joint to glue these and painters tape to clamp.









As you can see I had a lot of shelves to do.









Unlike the other shelves, the top shelf is constructed of 1/2" stock. Once it was glued, I used the plane to smooth out the joint on this shelf and all the others.









As you can see from the back view, the upper shelf is 1/2 " ply with a rabbited dado joint.









The rabbited dado joint will be hidden the upper moulding, which creates a false top in the interior and the upper secret compartment.









Using the actual case dimensions (I measure with a mm ruler because it is easier to remember the numbers). I cross cut to size on the radial arm saw.









I mark out the start and stop marks on the router table surface (they wipe away when you are done if you have a laminate router top). Chuck up an undersized plywood cutter (15/64").









I then route the stopped grooves into the shelving.









Again, use the actual measurements to trim the vertical pieces.









Because I have used stopped dados for the shelves, I route small notches on the shelf sides.









I then dry fit the assembly. The final assembly, due the fact that you have separate, false compartment in the center, requires that you finish the assembly outside the case once you start glue up.









I then assemble the complete shelf unit.









And insert the unit to the case.









Next session, moulding and feet.


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*Finishing external details on case*

In the last blog entry, I completed the interior elements. Now I will turn to the completion of the external elements of the case.

Where I started.









Where I finished.









During this session I completed the following:

1. Create base molding
2. Nail base molding
3. Create crown molding
3. Glue crown molding on
4. Add filler strip
5. Attach feet

I started with the base molding from the plan. It is sized to just cover the lower dovetails. I made a mistake and cut the rabbit at 90 deg. I should have cut it at 89 deg like the plan suggested so that I got a tighter fit to the case.









The base molding was pretty basic. Cut the profile with a cove bit.









Use the table saw to cut rabbet in the molding.









Fit the base molding to the case and cut to length.









Cut the miters using the miter gauge.









Next step is to use a number 10 counter sink to drill holes.









I used #8 screws to accommodate wood movement.









Next step was to make crown molding.

Cut out material to make quirk.









And then remove material for lower crown.









Use round over for top quirk.









Use core box bit to cut upper cove, inching up to cut full profile.









Use round over bit to cut lower curve.









Glue molding to upper case.









During glue up, I knocked the case is slightly out of square. As a result, I have to fit the actual angles.









Use the sliding bevel gauge to match the angle.









Cut a test piece using miter gauge.









Use test strip to get final fit









Glue final crown piece.









With the crown molding done, I turned to the feet.

I attached a filler strip along the back to get a consistent base height.









Then used multiple clamps to attach feet to base.









And I am done the outer case.


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Finishing external details on case*
> 
> In the last blog entry, I completed the interior elements. Now I will turn to the completion of the external elements of the case.
> 
> ...


Coming along nicely. Thanks for bloggin!


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## bnoles (Aug 25, 2007)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Finishing external details on case*
> 
> In the last blog entry, I completed the interior elements. Now I will turn to the completion of the external elements of the case.
> 
> ...


AWESOME work, Shawn…... absolutely AWESOME!


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Finishing external details on case*
> 
> In the last blog entry, I completed the interior elements. Now I will turn to the completion of the external elements of the case.
> 
> ...


Gorgeous looking cabinet!

Great photo essay, too.


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*Drawers and yet another dovetail jig*

Have completed the bulk of the body, I moved on to the drawers. I used the incra jig to cut both the half blind and thru dovetails.

So I started this session with the body completed









And finished with the interior completed as well.









Steps in this session
1. Glued and cut out drawer faces
2. Set up incra jig with 1/2" 14 deg bits and loaded dovetail template
3. Cut face drawers with half blind dovetails in front and thru dovetails in back
4. Cut hidden drawer with all thru dovetails
5. Glued up drawers
6. Clean up drawer for final fit

I had already cut poplar drawer sides/back during stock prep so first step is to create drawer fronts.
Start with three pieces of resawn curly maple. Thanks for great stock from Intercity Lumber in Tampa.









Glued up sections into one piece so I could cut drawer faces from continuous grain matched stock.









Ripped sections to height and measured actual fit









Used RAS to cut to final width









Next step was to set up Incra jig for dovetail cuts.

First thing is to set bit height to get a good fit. You start by setting bit to rough height and them making two A cuts on the template.










The using the general rule of lower to loosen, height to tighten, you move bit to get a perfect fit.










I then set the jig to determine bit center. I do this a little differently than the manual. I drilled a hole dead center of a block of wood that is precisely 3" square. I use the router center finder to position the block and butt fence up against block of wood. 









I can then align the Incra measure at 1.5", knowing that is dead center. I can then calculate center of stock against that measure and align the an A cut line against the center measure. In this case, my stock is 2 5/8 so I align an A cut on the template against 2 13/16" (1.5+ 1 5/16 = 2 13/16") mark to get a center cut.










I test my center mark by running a test board that is the width of drawer over the bit in one direction and then the other. If the bit is centered for both cuts ( one pass each way) then cut should not be wider than the bit.

I then use the jig to make the a cuts to get the tails. Note, I poke the router bit thru a masonite board to get a zero clearance insert on my table (low low tech)

First I sneak up on the outer cut with a series of scoring cuts.









Then I make a series of A cuts to define the tail.









I set up a stop block that allows me to advance the cutter into the stock for the half blind pins just deep enough to fit the tail. I then use the B cuts on the templates to cut socket for half blind pin in front.









Cutting the thru dovetail pins is a two step process that I show further on. First you cut the B cuts vertically and then lay the piece down and cut the pins horizontally. Then you use a chisel to knock out the little nubs that remain.

Sounds complex but goes quite fast and gets good results.









I am now half way there.









I used a slightly different template (more spaced out pins) but same methodology to cut the thru dovetails on the hidden drawer.

First I recentered off the original 1.5" mark. And began cuts with new dovetail template.

Cut the tails using a series of A cuts









Cut pins vertically using B cuts (note the big piece is the backer board I use to prevent chip out)









Cut pins horizontally using B cuts. As you can see, your drawer stock must be a hair thinner than your bit height in order to get a thru pin. If it is not, you can not adjust the bit height, you must plane the stock down.









I then cut a finger hole into the front using a Fostner bit.

Having cut the pieces, the glue up goes quickly.









I attach the plywood base using tape for clamps









I clean up tails using a chisel.









And plane the drawer sides to get them to fit.









And now I have a pile of drawers









With the big satisfaction of seeing them all in place.









This was a good day.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Drawers and yet another dovetail jig*
> 
> Have completed the bulk of the body, I moved on to the drawers. I used the incra jig to cut both the half blind and thru dovetails.
> 
> ...


Looks great!

Charles Neil has a very extensive video series on building one of these. It's really a great project to learn new skills!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Drawers and yet another dovetail jig*
> 
> Have completed the bulk of the body, I moved on to the drawers. I used the incra jig to cut both the half blind and thru dovetails.
> 
> ...


Super sweet. Lotsa gr8 details. Like the dovetails also


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*Tombstone style, veneered door*

In the last session I finished the 10 drawers. Now it is time start on the door. In this session, I:

1. Veneered the door panel
2. Cut the rails and styles for the door
3. Used loose mortise and tenon joinery for doors
4. Cut the tombstone arch
5. Assemble door
6. Cut mortise for hinges

I started with the main body done.









Session ended with a completed door.









First step was to create the veneered door panel. I used 1/4" maple ply with amboyna burl on the front and mahogany on the back.

I love amboyna burl and I had some left over from a prior project. The only thing I will say about using this is that the dust is harsh and can cause a rash. I use gloves, a mask and a lot of dust collection when sanding it.










First step is to spread glue on the panel.









I use a 6" roller to get an even glue coverage.









I use wax paper to keep assembly from sticking to cauls









And then I clamp it. Note that this is half way thru the clamping process. I added another 6 clamps.









Once the glue dried, I cut to size on the table saw.









With the panel done, it was then time to start the door frame.

Using the actual measurements from the case, I cut the door frame to leave an 1/8" gap around the outside (so width - 1/8" and height - 2×1/8")









I used a 1/4" bit to cut the panel groove (normally I would use the 7/32" plywood bit but with the two veneered sides, the 1/4" bit provides a tight fit).









I then set up my Mortise Pal to make the loose tenon joinery for door.









Using a 1/4" spiral upcut bit, I plunge the router in several time to remove most of the waste and then run it back and forth clean up the sides.









I make loose tenons from left over 1/4" poplar stock.









Now it is time to cut the tombstone style arch. I use a bandsaw jig to make a pattern and for rough cutting and then a router and pattern bit to get the final result.

First I get a pattern piece that is identically in width to the top rail of the door frame.









Using my bandsaw circle jig, I can make a cut to define the inside radius of the curve.









Which leaves me with a pattern.









I use the pattern to mark the curve on the work piece, which then I cut to within 1/16" of the line on the bandsaw.









I then attach the pattern to the workpiece with double sided tap and route to final shape.









I use a 1/4" slot cutter with a bearing to get the groove in the top rail.









And I am ready to dry assemble the panel.









I use the bandsaw to cut the top arch in the door panel. Since this part is buried about a 1/2" into the rail, I cut by hand as no one will see it.









Then I glue up.









Once the door is ready, I cut the mortises for the hinges

I mark the start point of the hinge (I also use the hinge a distance guide to get a consistent start point for both sides)









And lay out the hinge using a marking knife









If you have not watched the Paul Sellers Working Wood DVDs, I recommend picking them up. He will teach you to make clean consistent mortises with chisel. Very satisfying.

Make a knife wall









Mark out your section









Clean it out and your hinge fits perfectly









This has been a good weekend worth of work. Next steps … finishing and hardware.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Tombstone style, veneered door*
> 
> In the last session I finished the 10 drawers. Now it is time start on the door. In this session, I:
> 
> ...


coming along nicely.


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## JulianLech (Jan 13, 2011)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Tombstone style, veneered door*
> 
> In the last session I finished the 10 drawers. Now it is time start on the door. In this session, I:
> 
> ...


Looks like it will be a great looking spice cabinet. Nice job with all the pictures.


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## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Tombstone style, veneered door*
> 
> In the last session I finished the 10 drawers. Now it is time start on the door. In this session, I:
> 
> ...


Looking good! This is what more blog posts should be like, with tons of good process pictures.


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## SPHinTampa (Apr 23, 2008)

*Finishing and Hardware - Done!*

Last session, I built the front door. In this session, applied the finish and the hardware before finally shipping to my mother … only one month late for Mothersday!










I ended last session with the door done.










and finished with the completed piece










The steps I followed to finalize the piece:

1. Applied spray shellac to inside drawers and non show drawer sides
2. Finished planed the show surfaces, scraped and sanded to 320 grit
3. Applied dilute stain to curly maple drawer front, sanding back to get grain contrast 
4. Applied oil finish to entire unit and waited two weeks to cure
5. Buffed drawer fronts
6. Made a template to locate drawer hardware
7. Installed hardware
8. Shipped to mom

Detailed steps:

First I finished the insides and non show faces of the drawers using Zinsser spray shellac









I then mixed up a 1/8 strength solution of trans tint honey amber dye. I think this was a mistake and next time I will use a brown color rather than a yellow color as I think it will look better against the mostly raw wood final effect I was after. I used an alcohol base in order to avoid raising the grain. Next time I may blend the color into dewaxed shellac as the alcohol base stain seemed to penetrated fairly quickly.










I then stained all the curly maple surfaces:

















Yuck … fortunately I will be scraping away most of the colour.



















Still not sure I am enamored with the colouring but it did make the curly grain much more pronounced.










I then oiled the body using pure tung oil (5 coats - 24 hours between coats)










and drawers










and the door










I finalize by hand sanding everything with 320 grit.

And then I buff the drawer fronts using the Beall Buff System










And lay it all out to look for any last flaws in the light.










I made a hardboard template so that all the drawer pulls would line up down the sides.










And used my fancy blue tape based depth stop to drill the holes for the hardware










and then got out the hardware and installed by hand.










And I am done.


























It cost me $300 to ship from Florida to Calgary … worth every penny.

And to make sure future generations know who inspired me, I even signed the bottom (before I finished it)










Hope you enjoyed my blog.


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## Roger Clark aka Rex (Dec 30, 2008)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Finishing and Hardware - Done!*
> 
> Last session, I built the front door. In this session, applied the finish and the hardware before finally shipping to my mother … only one month late for Mothersday!
> 
> ...


Awesome Shawn. Thank you for posting informative pics too.
All I can say, is I think it is simply great and such a nice design that your mom is simple going to be thrilled with.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Finishing and Hardware - Done!*
> 
> Last session, I built the front door. In this session, applied the finish and the hardware before finally shipping to my mother … only one month late for Mothersday!
> 
> ...


Beee-u-teee-ful build my friend


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## DocK16 (Mar 18, 2007)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Finishing and Hardware - Done!*
> 
> Last session, I built the front door. In this session, applied the finish and the hardware before finally shipping to my mother … only one month late for Mothersday!
> 
> ...


Very nice. Love the tiger maple drawers. This is one of those bucket list items I have yet to find the time for. You did a great job, your design? I just noticed this is an 8 part series. Now I have to spend the next hour reading the first 7 parts.


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## doordude (Mar 26, 2010)

SPHinTampa said:


> *Finishing and Hardware - Done!*
> 
> Last session, I built the front door. In this session, applied the finish and the hardware before finally shipping to my mother … only one month late for Mothersday!
> 
> ...


great build.you're going to have think up another project to top this one.


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